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APPAREL DRIVES NIKE/3 VERA’S NEW LINE/5Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • September 21, 2004 • $2.00

WWDTUESDAYReady-to-Wear/Textiles

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The Simple LifeNEW YORK — No matter how elaborately ornamented other designers’

collections become, Francisco Costa has been sticking to his minimalist

ways for Calvin Klein, and he continued to do so for spring. His mission,

as Costa put it, is “to keep bringing the essence of Calvin Klein

forward.” So it isn’t surprising that refreshingly simple looks dominated

the line, like the silk jersey dress, here, that opened the presentation. Its

subtle draping is part of a Grecian trend on the runways this season.

For more on the shows, see pages 6 to 8.

See Dior, Page25

Christian Dior CoutureProfits Jump 37 PercentOn Bags and Men’s WearBy Miles Socha

PARIS — Powered in part by sales of Rastaaccessories and modernist men’s wear,Christian Dior Couture’s operatingprofits soared 37 percent in the first half.

The results, less than a week afterLVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuittonposted a 49 percent jump in net income,underscore how one of BernardArnault’s most treasured fashionproperties is fast becoming another cashcow among his vast constellation ofluxury holdings.

Indeed, Dior president SidneyToledano confirmed the fashion house is

Top 10 Style Setters

Inside:Pg. 9-20

WWDEmmyAwards

FASHIONGreek column dresses were strong on the spring runways, from CarolinaHerrera’s one-shoulder look to BCBG Max Azria’s Empire-waist style.

GENERALPowered in part by sales of its Rasta accessories and modernist men’swear, Christian Dior’s operating profits soared 37 percent in the first half.

Growing usage of performance fabrics by consumers bolstered Nike’s apparelsales, which jumped 12.9 percent to $391 million in the first quarter.

BEAUTY BEAT: L’Oréal Paris’ first U.S. store, called the Living Lab, is aspace-age cosmetics emporium at the Beverly Center in Los Angeles.

RTW: After 15 years of making wedding dresses, Vera Wang is branchinginto eveningwear, with a sales goal of $50 million in three years.

IN TRANSIT: There’s concern that the end of the quota system Jan. 1 willbring a surge in shipments and potential for backups at Pacific ocean ports.

TEXTILES: The Moda In featured an array of colors and patterns, as textilefirms focused the fashion spotlight on Italian fabric for next fall and winter.

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● PENBERTHY TO LORO PIANA: Elizabeth Penberthy has joinedLoro Piana as senior vice president of its wholesale division. Sheis based in New York and reports to Pier Guerci, president. Withmore than 15 years of experience in sales, Penberthy was most re-cently divisional vice president of international sales for Coach.Penberthy heads up the sales team, a responsibility formerly han-dled by Sandra Verbeck, who remains with the company as vicepresident of the luxury goods division. Penberthy said her twopriorities are to “further strengthen the existing business withNeiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and other high-end specialtystores and [to build] a high-performance team.”

● CATALANO JOINS EASEL: Richard Catalano, an apparel indus-try veteran, has been named president of Easel, Cloth by Easeland Knitastiks by Easel. Most recently, Catalano was presidentof Loveletters Inc., a Los Angeles-based loungewear-sleepwearline, for a year and a half. Loveletters has retained Catalano as aconsultant. Earlier, he held management posts at Vakko, SteveMadden Sportswear and Jeans and Finity, and before that waspresident and chief executive officer of Episode USA, and ceoand partner at Adrienne Vittadini, where he worked 10 years.He began his career at Evan-Picone. Catalano, who reports toNeil Weiss, chairman, will be responsible for Easel brands andKnitastiks private label programs. Easel is a contemporary knit-ted sportswear collection that features novelty sweaters and fab-rics. Cloth by Easel is a recently launched collection of contem-porary tops and novelty Ts.

In other moves, Barrie Taylor has joined Easel and Cloth byEasel as sales manager, a post previously held by ElaineGoldthwaite, who was promoted to sales manager for Knitastiksprivate label. Previously, Taylor was senior account executive atthe Bella Dahl/Jolna Design Group. Both will report to Catalano.

In Brief

Obituary ..................................................................................................27Classified Advertisements ..................................................................26-27

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WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 20042

By Ross Tucker

NEW YORK — Rolex Watch U.S.A. Inc. was award-ed $10.3 million in damages relating to a trade-mark infringement case against an Internet retail-er doing business under various Web addresses.

In a Sept. 16 filing, Manhattan Federal CourtJudge Richard C. Casey ruled against defendantJimmy Lan, who was accused of selling imitationwatches under various monikers including theSwiss Replica Watch, The Swiss Replica Co., swiss-replica.com, fakerolex.net and rolexreplica.us.

A copy of the judgment was not available atpress time. Neither Lan nor his attorney could notbe reached for comment.

Rolex first filed suit against Lan in December2003. According to an amended complaint filed inFebruary 2004, Lan sold watches that were “iden-tical with, or substantially indistinguishablefrom” legitimate Rolex products.

Rolex sought redress on five counts in the com-plaint, including trademark counterfeiting andunfair competition. The company also sought pos-session of the domain names and monetary dam-ages under the Anticybersquatting ConsumerProtection Act.

The ruling marks another victory for the lawfirm Gibney, Anthony & Flaherty, which earlierthis month scored a win for LVMH Moët HennessyLouis Vuitton in its case against 29 Chinatown re-tailers selling counterfeit Louis Vuitton and Fendihandbags.

According to the judge’s ruling in that case,each retailer was ordered to pay LVMH $16 mil-lion in statutory damages — an award that, in the-ory, entitles the luxury goods giant to a total of$464 million. In addition to the damages, JudgeThomas P. Griesa ordered all imitation bags andaccessories to be handed over to the company.

The original complaint, filed March 2, accusedthe tenants of selling counterfeit Louis Vuittonand Fendi merchandise. The tenants, said thesuit, continued to sell the items despite severalraids and the issuance of temporary restrainingorders and seizure orders.

LVMH has been stepping up its anticounterfeit-ing efforts, investing an estimated 12 millioneuros, or $13.6 million, last year.

Other luxury watch manufacturers have foundrecent success in their battles against online re-tailers selling counterfeit goods.

In August, Cartier won two such battles againstonline retailers selling imitation Cartier, Paneraiand Piaget watches. In both cases, the luxury goodsdesigner and manufacturer accused two online re-tailers of modifying authentic Cartier watches andselling them as upscale models. The lawsuits re-sulted in injunctions against the retailers.

According to the complaints, the online retailersobtained authentic Cartier watches, then added di-amonds in a pattern that imitated the diamondplacement of higher-end models. It was also allegedthat stainless steel metal bands were polished togive the appearance of Cartier’s white gold models.

Rolex Wins $10.3M Trademark RulingWWW.WWD.COM

NEW YORK — As part of its planto bolster business in the ever-in-fluential Japanese market, MarcJacobs International LLC has re-newed its partnership withMitsubishi International andRenown Look Inc. through 2009.

Marc Jacobs and RobertDuffy have long been committed

to Mitsubishi, which was thefirst licensed partner to sign adeal with the Marc Jacobsbrand, in 1994. The business hasgrown to 26 retail locations, in-cluding two freestanding storesin Aoyama and Osaka.

During a phone interviewMonday, Duffy, Jacobs’ presi-

dent, said, “After we got firedfrom Perry Ellis, they kept us inbusiness. I had my tin cup out tothose guys many times. Wewould not be in business todaywithout them.”

Duffy noted that Mitsubishiand Renown Look were the solesupporters early on and oftenadvanced money against futureroyalties. “From manufacturingto financial support, they havebeen a great partner for morethan 10 years,” he said.

Marc Jacobs executives de-clined to comment on interna-tional annual volume, but indus-try sources said retail sales areexpected to climb to $400 millionthis year from $250 million a year

ago. Marc Jacob products are dis-tributed in more than 10 coun-tries, including South Korea,China and several in Europe.

“We’re growing so quicklyright now. Our Japanese busi-ness is the most established, soit’s a matter of tinkering withit,” Duffy said. “We’re willing todo whatever they want to do.”

That could mean a variety ofthings, including developingJacobs’ home collection in Japan.

“Japan is crucial to everycompany. There are certain cat-egories that we’ve got to workon,” Duffy said. “One area wereally want to work on is acces-sories, especially handbags.”

In other news, Jacobs has de-signed a T-shirt for tonight’sNorth American film premiereof “Peace One Day” at the Zieg-feld Theater.

— Rosemary Feitelberg

Marc Jacobs Seeks Jolt in Japan

E. Edward Kavanaugh plans to retire as president of theCosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association around the middleof 2005 and Carolyn J. Deaver is expected to step down as vicepresident of the CTFA Foundation about the same time. The tim-ing of their respective retirements was incorrectly given in anarticle that appeared on page 12, Sept. 17.

Correction

A section covering the Emmy Awards appears on pages 9-20.

Marc Jacobs

and Robert

Duffy

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3WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004

By Vicki M. Young

NEW YORK — Growing acceptance ofperformance fabrics by consumers bol-stered Nike’s apparel sales, whichjumped 12.9 percent in the first quarter,while outpacing footwear and equipmentfor the company in three out of four geo-graphic regions.

For the period ended August 31, netincome for the world’s largest athleticfootwear firm rose 25 percent to $326.8million, or $1.21 a diluted share, from$261.2 million, or 98 cents, in the sameyear-ago quarter. Revenues gained 17.7percent to $3.56 billion from $3.02 billion.Profits came in at 10 cents above WallStreet’s best guess.

Philip Knight, chairman and chief fi-nancial officer, said in a statement,“We’re off to a great start. Our first-quar-ter revenues reached record levels driv-en by strong results around the worldand across all our brands. These resultsreflect both the strength of our brandsand our ability to execute across ourportfolio of businesses.”

Executives who spoke during the com-pany’s conference call to Wall Street ana-lysts attributed the increases in the quar-ter to a heightened brand awarenessfrom its five-continent, multievent mar-keting campaign that focused on speedas its central theme. Boosting sales of ap-parel products has been increasing ac-ceptance by consumers for performancefabrics such as Nike’s Swift technology.

Years in development, the Swift tech-nology is designed to improve perform-ance with elements such as breathablepanels and specially placed seams. Firstworn in a track-and-field event in theSummer Olympic Games in Sydney,Australia, in 2000, the technology hasevolved into suits that are lighter andmore breathable, and is now incorporat-ed into Nike’s products for other sportssuch as cycling, speed skating, swimming

and rowing.Consumers also are embracing Nike’s

Sphere technology with high-in-demandproducts such as women’s Sphere drywoven jacket and dry woven pant. Thetwo items contributed to a “robust back-to-school season for Nike that is drivinghealthy futures orders for spring 2005,”said Mark Parker, president of the Nikebrand.

Nike’s Sphere technology featuresmoisture-wicking properties, and is de-signed to keep athletes dry and cool asthey work out. It’s used in a variety of thecompany’s performance offerings, includ-ing T-shirts, jackets and tennis dresses.

Sales of apparel in the U.S. climbed to$391.3 million from $346.5 million lastyear, with footwear rising 12 percent to$921.4 million and equipment sales up 11percent to $89 million. Same-store salesfor Nike Town stores grew 9 percent inthe period, while U.S. futures orders rosemore than 11 percent versus the year-ago

quarter. Inventories at the stores havebeen tight, to the point where a majorissue has been lack of inventory, andeven factory outlet stores are having lessmerchandise than in previous years, ac-cording to executives on the call.

The biggest growth region was AsiaPacific, where apparel sales shot up 31.3percent to $148.8 million from $113.3 mil-lion. Footwear sales climbed 7.8 percentto $218.6 million, and equipment salesgained 21 percent to $38.6 million from$31.9 million. The second largest area ofgrowth was the European region, whichincludes sales from the Middle East andAfrica. Apparel sales jumped 19.8 per-cent to $409.7 million from $341.9 million,while footwear gained 12.4 percent to$663.3 million and equipment sales rose7 percent to $84.9 million. Apparel salesin the Americas region fell 8 percent to$35.5 million from $38.6 million, whilefootwear increased 11.6 percent to $114.8million and equipment sales climbed 19

percent to $11.4 million.Also contributing to the quarter’s rev-

enue stream was Converse, which thecompany acquired in the second quarterof fiscal 2004. “For the quarter, revenuesfrom other businesses grew 64 percent to$435 million. The acquisition of Conversecontributed about three-quarters of thatgrowth. Cole Haan had another stellarquarter as revenues advanced 30 percent,”noted Don Blair, chief financial officer.

In August, the company purchased theStarter brand, a licensed apparel busi-ness. Starter is part of Exeter Brands,which Nike launched as a way to funnelproduct into the discount channel.

“The purpose, in addition to the incre-mental revenue and profit, will allow usto expand our distribution into the valuechannel, a large and growing market andone in which we have not participated,”said Charles Denson, also president ofthe Nike brand.

He also said that while it’s too early inthe process to say what opportunitiesthere may be overseas, the company isevaluating the business as a global brandopportunity.

Following the earnings release, LehmanBrothers analyst Robert Drbul raised hisfiscal year 2005 earnings per share estimateto $4.25 from $4.05 and fiscal year 2006 EPSestimate to $4.80 from $4.60.

Drbul wrote in a report, “We stronglybelieve that Nike has never been bettermanaged from a strategic and financialperspective.” He also added that Nikecontinues to generate significant freecash flow. In fiscal 2004, free cash flowfrom operations was $1 billion, and $308million for the first quarter of 2005. Nikeused part of the cash to repurchase 2.1million shares at a cost of $155.2 million.

Shares of Nike closed up 1.8 percent,or $1.44, to $78 in trading Monday on theNew York Stock Exchange.

— With contributions from Melanie Kletter

Apparel Leads Nike to Strong 1Q PerformanceWWW.WWD.COM

CAMPAIGN STOP: John Kerry is reputed to be something of astiff, but at Redbook’s Mothers & Shakers Awards luncheonMonday the Democratic presidential candidate and juniorsenator from Massachusetts was a veritable firecrackercompared with his wife. The normally feisty Teresa HeinzKerry sounded as if she might nod off any moment as sherecited a 15-minute speech about the importance of familyand diversity in promoting philanthropy. Or was it theimportance of diversity and philanthropy in promotingfamily? Hard to say — as the candidate himself put it in hiskeynote address, “Our attention span is not very large.” Hewas referring not to his wife’s speech, however, but to “theplethora of media outlets [which] kind of crushes theconsciousness.” Kerry, who made headlines Monday withhis four-point plan to stabilize Iraq, also touched on theusual topics in his address: the war, the economy, healthcare, education and, of course, his mane. “My staff toldme, ‘Don’t worry, you’re having a good hair day,’” he joked.

The Kerrys’ uninspiring performance did not seem tohurt the candidate’s support among the handful of

celebrities in attendance.(Sarah Michelle Gellar failed toshow, as did Jamie-LynnDiScala, who had stayed uplate Sunday night celebratingthe Emmy wins of “TheSopranos.”) Uma Thurman, whowas honored for her work withthe charity Room to Grow, leda standing ovation when fellowhonoree Gloria Wilderbrathwaitecriticized President Bush’srecord on childhood poverty.Also on hand was DylanMcDermott, looking like a chicGrizzly Adams in a Gucci suitand a thick beard, which hegrew for his role in theupcoming film “TheTennants,” co-starring SnoopDogg. Asked who had his votein November, McDermottdidn’t hesitate: “Kerry all theway.” — Jeff Bercovici

PUBLISHER SHUFFLE: Susan Plagemann, publisher of therecently shuttered Lifetime magazine, has found a newjob at Hearst — someone else’s. Plagemann has beennamed vice president and publisher of Marie Claire,replacing Katherine Rizzuto, who is departing thecompany. Ad pages in Marie Claire were down 6.3percent through September, totaling 1,019.9, accordingto Media Industry Newsletter. Before Lifetime,Plagemann was publisher of Cosmopolitan, and she hasalso held positions at Esquire and Mademoiselle.Lifetime editor in chief Susan Wyland is also staying onwith a job in Hearst’s magazine development unit. — J.B.

POOL PARTY: It’s, like, prom week on the Sunset Strip,where Teen Vogue is hosting its second annual YoungHollywood party. (Teen Vogue, like WWD, is a unit ofAdvance Publications Inc.) The place is the ChateauMarmont, poolside. The time is Thursday night. And the

talent is the Distillers, who will play a rare acoustic set.(Relax moms and dads, distilled spirits will only beserved by bartenders checking IDs.) “I definitely walkedaway from last year’s party wowed by all the kids,” saidsenior editor and gatekeeper of the guest list, NicoleVecchiarelli, who helped organize the first “YoungHollywood” party at a private home in Beverly Hills.“This year we wanted to take it up a notch, make it moreabout Hollywood,” said Vecchiarelli. “We thought theChateau would be a better venue for that.” Expectedguests include Adam Brody, Rachel Bilson, Kate Bosworth,Gael García Bernal, Mandy Moore, October covergirlKirsten Dunst and the man who shot her, Mario Testino. “Ithink it’s going to be a good turnout this year [thanks toTestino],” said Vecchiarelli. “A lot of young actresses aretrying to start their own relationship with him.” Workingrelationship, that is. Two notables who won’t be inattendance: the Bush twins, Jenna and Barbara. Theyregretted through their press secretary, which means noJenna in the pool à la Alice Roosevelt. — Sara James

PEACE TALKS: Are New York’s warring gossips going softon each other? Not quite, although that was theimpression some took away from last week’s gossipsummit at the 92nd Street Y. At several points duringthe panel discussion, Lloyd Grove, who writes the“Lowdown” column for the New York Daily News, madewhat seemed like friendly overtures toward New YorkPost Page Six editor Richard Johnson. Grove, whorelishes pointing out the Post’s peccadilloes in hiscolumn, marveled at Johnson’s “amazing” productivityand praised him for shaming lying publicists in print.“I’m too scared to do that,” Grove said. Afterward,however, Grove denied he was trying to butter up hisfoe. “I was merely stating my beliefs, not holding out anolive branch,” he said via e-mail Thursday. “I willcontinue to write about Page Six in ways that Richardmight not appreciate when I think it’s appropriate to mycolumn.” Johnson, for his part, professed to beunmoved by Grove’s flattering words, whatever theirintent. “Lloyd’s always been very cordial and amiable inperson,” he said. “It’s just in print where he’s beenbothersome.” — J.B.

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LOS ANGELES — At the touch of ascreen, like something from the Holo-deck on the Star Trek Enterprise, the in-side of a 64-square-foot pod, upholsteredin plush cream suede, transitions fromthe fluorescent brightness of an office tothe red glow of nearby Hollywood hotspot Spider Club.

But this is no spaceship — nor is it aHollywood stage set, for that matter. It’sthe TrueLight pod, an enclosed alcovedesigned to give a better sense of make-up and hair color in true-life scenarios.And it’s located inside L’Oréal Paris’ firstU.S. store, called the Living Lab, at theBeverly Center here.

“It’s about time that L’Oréal [Paris] fi-nally opened up a store,” said MillaJovovich, the beauty brand’s spokesmod-el, who was on hand for the space’s open-ing bash Friday night. Nicole Richie, Bai

Ling and Anna Kournikova also attend-ed, not to mention Jean-Paul Agon, presi-dent and chief executive officer ofL’Oréal USA; Joseph Campinell, presi-dent of the L’Oréal Consumer Productsdivision, and L’Oréal Paris president andgeneral manager Carol Hamilton.

“Their products are great,” Jovovichcontinued, as she stood near a light boxwith her photograph, “and they stand forso many things — like no animal testing.They give to great causes. A companywith that kind of honesty and commit-ment should have its own store. It should-n’t just be in a supermarket or drugstore.”

Hamilton is banking that consumerswill agree. “We wanted to make beautyexciting, provocative and fun — and rele-

vant,” she said. “At the same time, you’relearning what really works.”

Peppered throughout the space areplacards, some printed with sound bitesfor makeup application, others withL’Oréal’s signature witticisms.

So, too, are some of their new mes-sages — like “Don’t Look Your Age,”“Make it Up,” and, marking the men’sline, “Be A Man.” They are brandished insharp, lively graphicsacross lighted panelsrimming the ceiling.The graphics, created byBase Design, are madeup of a pattern of small bottle and jar sil-houettes that are colored to spell out thewords.

The 2,300-square-foot retail space,bookended in the shopping center by JustCavalli and Max & Co., is as much a strik-

ing visual experience as it is a triumph ofa mass brand showcased in hip, prestigeenvirons. Hamilton and her team choseSouth African architect Lindy Roy out of agroup of eight who were paid to competefor the commission. Hamilton noted thatabout 80 percent of the line is availablehere. “Lindy [Roy] understood the role theproduct should play,” she said. “When youlook at a mass-marketed brand, all of ourlogos aren’t the same. When you look atthis place, it’s not a museum.”

The entrance in the space’s glass fa-cade is framed by an oversized, brokensilver “O,” which suggests arms embrac-ing upwards and is a nod to the brandname, Hamilton pointed out. Step in andonto the “red carpet” — actually a swirl

of glossy red paint on the white floor —which also represents “a new beautyjourney,” said Hamilton, stating anotherof the retail enterprise’s mantras. Thereare “play stations” — curving red-and-white open tester islands — that are one-ended with a Corian sink so that “cus-tomers don’t even have to ask to use it.”Across the top, jutting from the surface ofa crescent Corian counter, are dozens of

clear tubes tipped withthick swatches of hair inL’Oréal shades.

“We really wantedwomen — and men — to

feel they can just flow through the store,with nothing in between them and theproduct or staff,” said Hamilton, dis-cussing the store’s inspiration. “The ideawas in the Living Lab concept. We talk toour customers all the time in focus

groups. But to talk to her at the point ofsale, where she’s thinking about beautyand really able to ask the questions thatare on her mind — that’s where we aregoing to learn.”

Along the walls on either side of thespace are lit acrylic shelves filled withproduct. The brightly colored bottles ofsunscreen and hair product take on aPop Art effect here. On a wall of clearshelves are stacks of the silver, foil-cov-ered photo books, called “Because I’mWorth It,” that the company publishedlast year. Next to them, boxes are filledwith packaged 60-watt halogen bulbs.“It’s little touches like these that expandthe concept of the store,” Hamilton re-marked.

Then there is the pod. Vanilla suedecovers a high bar stool and a curvingbench for a friend or two to share in thelighting experience, thanks to lightingspecialist Bill Schwinghammer, who col-laborated with Glide Inc. engineers DaveLiatti and Steve Feurborn.

Touch the screen bar labeled “bath-room” and the pod lights up as it wouldat home. The range of settings goes fromcandlelight in a restaurant, to the sun-light of the beach, to even the glare of thered carpet. There are even options de-signed to give the impression of being atL.A. hot spots like Dolce, Koi, Concorde,Joseph’s and others.

Nightlife impresario Brent Bolthousecollaborated on the settings. He alsostaged Friday’s opening like a nightclub,complete with a deejay and plenty oftray-passed lemon drops.

Hamilton declined to discuss thecosts for the build-out or how much thestore might generate in terms of salesvolume, but according to area realtors,stores in the Beverly Center typicallygenerate as much as $700 in sales persquare foot.

A second Living Lab is slated to openbefore the holidays at the West FarmsShopping Center in West Hartford, Conn.The signature stores, Hamilton believes,will make the beauty company a betterpartner with its thousands of retailers.“They ask us all the time how they canbetter merchandise the product. We cangive them advice, but this gives us hands-on experience.”

While focus groups are good, shenoted, they only “take you to a certainlevel. More and more, we’re realizingwe need to touch our consumers at thepoint of contact with the product. Wemight be number one in the industry,but we need to know more, we need tobe better.”

— Rose Apodaca Jones

Game, Set and Parlux MatchNEW YORK — First Paris, now Maria.

Wimbledon champion Maria Shara-pova, 17, has inked a licensing agreementwith Parlux Fragrances Inc. to launch asignature fragrance in 2005. Sharapova’sdeal comes on the heels of the company’sagreement with Paris Hilton, who was re-cently brought on board to create andmarket her own signature fragrance.

“Maria’s rise in the tennis world hasbeen noteworthy,” said Kathleen Galvin,vice president of marketing for FortLauderdale, Fla.-based Parlux Fra-grances. “She is bright, engaging andloves fashion. She is incredibly excited,and we believe it will be a success.”

Parlux is also home to fragrancebrands including Guess, Perry Ellis andFred Hayman Beverly Hills.

Sharapova is the world’s ninth-rankedtennis player and this year became oneof the youngest women to capture theWimbledon crown. The Russian nativehas a fan base that is expanding locallyand globally, and the prestige and pres-ence of the Parlux brand could stronglyresonate throughout Eastern Europe.

“Tennis is and will always be hermain priority, but she will certainly be asinvolved as much as possible,” saidSharapova’s agent, Max Isenbud. “Wefully realize she is becoming a brand,and this was the right move at the righttime. It will reflect what Maria is: classyand elegant.”

In addition to Parlux, the tennis starsigned a three-year licensing agreementwith electronics supplier Motorola lastAugust.

For Sharapova, the Parlux deal maybe a perfect match. “This is a great op-portunity for me to do something creativeand fun,” Sharapova said in a statement.“I love the world of fashion and am look-ing forward to experiencing it firsthand.”

— Dawn S. Kissi

L’Oréal Looks Into Future With First U.S. UnitWWW.WWD.COM

BEAUTY BEAT

A shot of the

makeup counter

at the Living Lab.

A shot of the

makeup counter

at the Living Lab.Milla Jovovich and Carol Hamilton

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“We talk to our customers all the time in focus groups. But to talk to herat the point of sale, where she’s thinking about beauty and really able to askthe questions that are on her mind — that’s where we are going to learn.”— Carol Hamilton, L’Oréal Paris

By Rosemary Feitelberg

NEW YORK — Vera Wang is not one to be called rash.After 15 years of making wedding dresses — and doingthe painstaking alterations that sometimes go with them— the designer is putting her know-how and seamstressskills into a more affordable dress collection.

The concept initially stemmed from the success of herbridesmaid dress business, and now she is banking on the 40dresses to appeal to a broader age range — from sophisti-cated prom-goers to well-maintained 60-year-olds.

The line is to be produced under the Vera Wang label. Itconsists primarily of eveningwear, though it is priced consider-ably lower than her collection eveningwear, which retails from$2,000 to $5,000. With retail prices of $395 to $1,100, the new groupintends to build business in specialty and department stores.

“The word is ‘attainable,’’ Wang said during a photo shootlast week at her West 39th Street showroom. “I’m not implyingit’s cheap, cheap. But at least it’s something they can afford.”

The dress collection should generate $50 million in retailsales within the next three years, said Susan Sokol, presidentof Vera Wang Apparel.

A white matte jersey cocktail dress, a black halter dresswith a sequined waistband and a strapless floral dress withbanded tulle are among the styles. As a model breezed by in afloor-length black Chantilly lace dress with horizontal pleatsat the bodice, Wang said, “This is our vocabulary — pleating,borders, banding. We’ve been very successful with thesethings. But by successful, I mean selling 25 pieces. Now we’ll

be able to do this and reachmore people.”

The company does notrelease sales figures, butindustry sources said itswholesale bridal, brides-maid, eveningwear andready-to-wear generates$24 million in annualsales, and its MadisonAvenue store rings up anadditional $12 million inretail sales each year.

The dress collec-tion comes at a timeof change for thecompany. For thefirst time in 15 years,

Wang and her right-hand man, Chet Hazzard, are not solely theone-two punch on the senior executive level. Sokol joined thecompany last month, and with her arrival Hazzard assumedthe title of vice chairman and maintains his role as chief oper-

ating officer. Wang continues as chairman and chief executiveofficer, signing up Laura Lee Miller, the former UnileverPrestige president, as executive vice president of licensingfor VEW Ltd., Wang’s licensing division. Hazzard and Wang

said it also freed them to look at other opportunities.“I love to hear you say that, because I work seven

days a week,” Wang said, skeptically.“It never gets easier — even with a great team,”

Hazzard said.Apparel sales are anticipated to rise 35 percent next

year, and the company is expected to exceed $200 millionin retail sales, partly because of its new dress business andits growing ready-to-wear. The company has ramped up itsproduction team in order to handle the additional business.

Part of the executives’ increasingly busy days can bechalked up to a renewed interest in the brand, as well as its

$140 million licensing business at retail. Bergdorf Goodmanplans to open the designer’s first designated area on its thirdfloor in November. Earlier this month, Wang’s 7th on Sixthrunway show received enthusiastic reviews, and the design-er collection will be available in 60 to 70 doors.

In terms of potential direction, handbags are “clearly anopportunity, and lingerie is absolutely on our chart,” as areaccessories, Hazzard said. The company is considering doingaccessories in-house. In the next year, bed and bath products

such as sheets and towels will be added to the home col-lection. Sleepwear and shoes are also being considered.

“It may sound very last-minute, but it’s been along time coming,” Wang said.

“Laborious,” Hazzard added, drawing out thesyllables for effect.

Much of Wang’s licensed merchandise, such aschina, glassware and silver, was inspired by the

publication of her first book, “Vera Wang onWeddings,” in 2001. But Wang is quick to

note it took years to develop each cate-gory, and slow and steady is the paceshe prefers.“I own my own business, so money

is a concern,’’ she said. “I have to makedecisions with Chet to be sure we have

the right financing to do all this. That is a dis-cipline I have had for 15 years.”


Ready-to-Wear Report

By Evan Clark

NEW YORK — Nicole Miller and DonnkennyInc. want to bring a young designer sensibil-ity to better-priced sportswear and ready-to-wear with the Nicole Miller New York line.

The addition of better-priced sportswear,along with related separates and suits, allproduced under license by Donnkenny,helps round out the brand’s offerings. Thetwo companies completed the licensingagreement in February. Nicole Miller,which has 30 of its own stores, alreadyproduces the new Nicole MillerSignature premium line, the coreNicole Miller Collection and thecontemporary Miller Girl lines.There is also a collection of house-wares sold at Bed, Bath & Beyond.

Even though the designer hasput together her signature line for22 years, Bud Konheim, chief exec-utive officer of Nicole Miller, saidattaching the “young designer”description to the new collectionis appropriate. “Her take hasalways been on the young side ofeverything,” he said.

Konheim searched for a vendorto make better-priced productsbearing the designer’s name for twoyears, eventually signing on withDonnkenny, under the guidance ofchairman and ceo Daniel Levy.Before that, trust was the big stickingpoint, breaking apart at least one deal.

“We never contemplated licensing

clothing, mainly because I just wouldn’ttrust anybody in clothing,” Konheim said.“When we both met Dan, it was like abreath of fresh air in the garment center.”

Konheim said it would have taken atleast five years for Nicole Miller todevelop the sourcing and retail rela-tionships to properly enter the betterarea on its own.

Better-priced sportswear has beenan active segment of the market,with the launch this season ofMichael Michael Kors comingafter new and revamped introduc-tions from high-powered names

such as Tommy Hilfiger,Ralph Lauren and JonesNew York.

The new line “marriesbeautifully to the parentbrand,” said Elissa Bromer,group president of NicoleMiller at Donnkenny.Bromer joined the firmearlier this year after serv-ing as president of thePerry Ellis women’s divi-sion of Public Clothing Co.

Better separates willbe the largest portion of this offering.

For spring, Bromer plans to have theseparates in 800 stores, while suits willroll out to 500 locations and sportswearto 350. Konheim estimated the offerings

will produce sales of about $10 millionduring their first season.

Donnkenny also produces Nicole

Miller women’s coats, which are inabout 100 shops, with 500 doors pro-jected for fall 2005.

Sophia Tezel is designing the bet-ter-priced lines with direction fromMiller. Tezel had her own collectionin the Nineties and previouslyworked for the designer.

The line mirrors Miller’s higher-end collections — for instance, inter-preting the Celtic runway looksthrough T-shirts printed with Celticsymbols.

“Our goal for sportswear was tomake it look like young designer,”Bromer said. “Too many people outthere are trying to be contemporary.”

The sportswear, under the NicoleMiller New York label, has a flirty,casual sensibility and includes suchlooks as white crocheted tops and

skirts with butterfly detailing.Jackets from the collection whole-

sale for $75 to $95, while blouses gofor $35 to $45 and pants for $45 to $55.

“‘Sexy’ is no longer a dirty word,”Bromer said. “This woman wants tolook sexy even though she’s going tothe grocery store.”

The related separates portion of the lineis called NicKnits and includes some novel-ty printing, such as a living-room scene,capelets and a nod to bridal heavilyadorned with beads.

Starting with February magazines, theNicole Miller brand overall will be backedup by a $3.5 million ad budget for spring.

NEW YORK — Lee YoungHee, a leading fashion design-er in South Korea, will be heretoday to host a fashion showand unveil the Lee Young HeeMuseum at 2 West 32nd Street.

The museum — a first of itskind in New York — cele-brates Korean fashion, art anddesign, and aims to evolveinto an important cultural in-stitution. Hee has donatedmore than 1,000 traditionalKorean costumes and piecesfor this exhibition, includingmany that will be on view forthe first time here. The artis-tic installation celebrates herculture, commemorating the100th anniversary of Koreanimmigration to the U.S.

At a 4 p.m. fashion show,Hee will showcase herspring collection as well astraditional pieces such ashanbok, the traditional cos-tume of Korea, with roots asfar back as 57 B.C.

There are also antique ac-cessories, jewelry with pre-cious and semiprecious stonesand ceremonial robes withelaborate headdresses datingback hundreds of years.

WWW.WWD.COM

Two Nicole Miller

looks for spring.

Three

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Lee Young HeeVisits New YorkTo Open Museum

Nicole Miller Takes Better Route With Donnkenny

Vera Wang: Steady as She GrowsPH

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NEW YORK — Greek columndresses were important looks on thespring runways, and they took on a

range of guises, from CarolinaHerrera’s long, subtle one-shoulderlook to an Empire-waisted numberwith an abbreviated layered skirt

from BCBG Max Azria.

Grecian Formula

BCBG Max AzriaDonna Karan Vera Wang

7WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004WWW.WWD.COM

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Costello TagliapietraCarolina Herrera


NOT SO FROSTY: It’s hard topinpoint what she’s doingright, but Frost Frenchdesigner Sadie Frostmanaged to get both of herex-husbands to see hershow on Sunday: Jude Lawand the former SpandauBallet star Gary Kemp. Lawwas there with hisgirlfriend, Sienna Miller,while Kate Moss, SamanthaMorton, MatthewWilliamson, Tracey Emin,Damon Dash and Dash’sson Boogie were amongthose also seeing thepresentation, held in thebar of the Titanic in Soho.Frost French’s hastyventure into knitwear lastfall — not a good idea —was put on ice this seasonas Frost and her designpartner, Jemima French,stuck to what they do best:pretty chiffon. In a blink-and-you-miss-it show, setto the sounds of motorcycles revving, the focuswas on sheer dresses, tea-style or tiered.

LET THEM EAT CAKE: Fashionistas can finally havetheir Jimmy Choos — and eat them, too. TheBerkeley hotel has introduced Pret-a-Portea,afternoon tea with runway-inspired goodies,including hot-pink cookies in the shape of anOscar de la Renta dress, tiny éclairs with Missonistripes, an Anya Hindmarch chocolate Pandorahandbag and a gingerbread Jimmy Choo boot. “Itstarted when Nicole Kidman and Renée Zellwegerwere staying at the hotel, and we sent up dress-shaped cookies to their rooms,” said PaulaFitzherbert, p.r. director of the hotel. All of thecakes and cookies are made by the residentpastry chefs, while the patisserie’s creativedirector attends shows during London FashionWeek to get inspiration for colors and textures.So far, Fitzherbert has run into problems onlywith Chanel. “They won’t allow me to copy thehandbag,” she said, adding that she has alreadyturned the Fendi baguette into a chocolatesquare with white icing.

FASHION ROCKS: Vivienne Westwood and SexPistols creator Malcolm McLaren, one of fashion’smost influential couples, will be reunited laterthis week — in an exhibition, that is. “Punk: ATrue and Dirty Tale,” which opens at TheHospital in London’s Covent Garden on Thursday,will trace the most significant points in punkrock’s history. Items from SEX and Seditionaries,the shops owned by Westwood and McLaren, willbe on display at the multimedia venue andexhibition space opened by Dave Stewart ofEurythmics fame and Microsoft co-founder PaulAllen. There will also be handwritten lyrics fromthe Sex Pistols album “Never Mind the Bollocks”and a blood-splattered poster from the infamousChelsea Hotel room where Sid Vicious allegedlystabbed his girlfriend Nancy Spungen in 1978.Assembled by art dealer Paul Stolper and AndrewWilson, who is deputy editor of Art Monthly, theexhibition will run until Jan. 23.

FASHION IN MOTION: London’s designers are provingthey can dress the back end of a bus just as easilyas a runway model. Nine design houses, includingEley Kishimoto, Frost French, Julien Macdonald,Tata Naka, Temperley and Betty Jackson, haveturned their attention to the city’s double-deckerbuses this fashion week. Each has given one bus adose of their signature look. Tata Naka’s bus, forexample, is covered in palm trees, while EleyKishimoto’s features a spinning man graphic fromthe duo’s spring/summer ’05 collection, andMacdonald’s is covered in — surprise —fluorescent colors. Unveiled last week, the buseswill stay in service until the end of the year.

Fashion ScoopsFashion Scoops

WWW.WWD.COM

LONDON — Although some of this city’s best-known nameshave dropped off the calendar, London’s other designersare moving right along, and the mood of fashion week,which began on Sunday, is decidedly upbeat. Houses in-cluding Paul Smith, Nicole Farhi, Frost French and EmmaCook showed collections blooming with color, a riot offlower prints and wild patterns.

Paul Smith: “I am trying to be positive,” said Paul Smith afterhis show. “There’s so much trauma at the moment, I wantedthis collection to remind us of nature, of a normal world.”The presentation, in fact, featured a real grass catwalk andlots of flower prints, along with the designer’s signaturestripes. The show began with Space-Age sparkle: lavendermetallic cable knits and little fitted jackets and tweed skirtswith jeweled trim. But then Smith landed back on earth in afabulous English garden with a baker’s dozen ofphotographic, digital and screen prints, some Liberty-inspired, which turned up on such pieces as patchworkapron dresses, silk shirtdresses and shrunken cardigans.Even the obi belts featured flower patterns. Smith, whoopened a 1,750-square-foot store in Shanghai in August andwho will open a 1,775-square-foot unit in Hong Kong in a fewweeks, also showed featherweight caftans in shades of mintand dusty rose, perfect for steamy summer nights.

Eley Kishimoto Ellesse: Move over, Venus and Serena.You’re not the only fashion plates in the wide world ofsports. The latest competition is Eley Kishimoto Ellesse,which debuted this season with pleated, patchwork tennisskirts, satin turquoise baseball jackets and printed tennisdresses — the kind Marcia Brady might have slipped onfor a hot date. Husband-and-wife team Mark Eley andWakako Kishimoto, well known for their colorful, graphicprints with a retro feel, have teamed up with the sportsfirm Ellesse in a three-season deal to create a new youngcollection. “We were given free rein, and it felt like play,”said Eley after the show. “We were thinking about a lot of‘teams’ — sassy American rich kids who do lunch at theclub, the council-estate crew — and even poetry readers.”The collection has a strong retro feeling with colors likemustard, brown and aqua, and wholesales for slightly lessthan the regular Eley Kishimoto line. A printed cottontennis dress will cost about $267, for example, and a satinbaseball jacket $338.

Nicole Farhi: Flower power is thecatchphrase chez Farhi. Thedesigner filled her runway with one

sweet and colorful look afteranother, and the floral prints were

everywhere. Using ribbon trim, Farhimade geraniums three-dimensional on dresses, skirts andtops, and she also mixed buds and stripes to great effect onfluid wrap dresses. Jackets were assembled from cutoutflowers. “I had so much fun layering and mixing prints,”said Farhi backstage after the show. And when her girlwasn’t skipping through the garden, she was wearingbleached denim jeans and a jacket with floral piping. Atcocktail time, the designer delivered with silk dressesfeaturing pleated ruffles falling in tiers, but those othertaffeta numbers seemed a little stiff.

Clements Ribeiro: For spring, design duo Suzanne Clementsand Inacio Ribeiro were thinking about a botanist stuck inIndia. Strange inspiration, lovely results. Happily, thecollection wasn’t bogged down by exotic trappings, butmerely flavored with them. Chiffon in overscaled lotusprints, for example, made for some pretty tops and a greatgown. Djellaba tops came with trompe l’oeil embroidery,and silk dresses were pieced together and asymmetricallydraped to hint at India’s national uniform, the sari. Therewere the requisite cashmere knits, this time featuring pink-and-yellow zig-zags or clashing stripes. After years ofcollaborating with shoe designers, Clements Ribeiro arefinally launching a footwear collection of their own thisseason, and their platform sandals are sure to be a hit withgirls from Bombay to New York.

Temperley: Alice Temperley knows what her “It” girls want.Season after season, she serves up sequined cocktail dressesand color-blocked knits with an Art Deco vibe. For spring,Temperley softened and swapped the Deco for swirling ArtNouveau patterns. Chiffon cocktail and evening numberscame in sea-foam and coral shades and sported tons of silversequins, while sweaters were bright with colorful intarsiareminiscent of a butterfly’s wings. A chiffon dress and skirtsported a cool sequined cobweb motif. Temperley also has asoft spot for crochet, although sometimes she ventures toofar into granny territory. This season’s crocheted standoutwas a sexy black tea dress with lavender flowers.

london

English Roses – and Other Blossoms

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sophisticated ladiessophisticated ladies

Pages 9-20

Amber Tamblyn, one of WWD’s

Top 10 Style Setters of the next

generation, in Randolph Duke.

MARSHA THOMASONShe’s among the hot young things lighting up NBC’s “Las Vegas” as thecasino pit boss with the jackpot smile. Yet Marsha Thomason standsapart from the pack of buxom babes of Monday’s must-see indulgencewith her cool hang-with-the-boys attitude and that British accent.

No surprise, then, that the Manchester, U.K., native is a fixturearound L.A.’s night scene, but always as one of the crowd rather thanseeking the spotlight like other wild-child starlets. Her signature mixof Kangol caps, unusual jewelry, vintage and designers, however,draws its share of flattering attention. On the red carpet, she’s gonefrom Dior to Project Alabama, Costume National to BCBG.

“She has a strong sense of personal style,” said Cameron Silverof Decades, where Thomason’s last purchase was a bright blueZandra Rhodes. “She’s a little bit more sophisticated than mostnewcomers. Of course, she’s only new in the States.”

While her American film gigs are more a reflection of the state ofminority roles in Hollywood (“My Baby’s Mama,” “Haunted Mansion”),Thomason’s roles in Britain have tended toward the dramatic, or atleast demanding, from “Prime Suspect” to London’s West End stage.

“She’s the kind of the girl that doesn’t obsess over who thedesigners are, but rather whether it looks right on her,” said friendPhillip Bloch. “I think it has a lot to do with that British thing,where she can throw something on eclectic and wear it with thekind of attitude that makes it just look amazing.”

MISCHA BARTONHands down, 18-year-old MischaBarton is today’s fashion “It” girl. Asthe star of a hit show, “The O.C.”(which returned teen fashion to the air-waves), her personal style and off-cam-era dressing have catapulted her ontothe pages and covers of magazines.

“Mischa is at the forefront of a newgeneration of young actresses who areembracing fashion,” said AlbertaFerretti. “Her style is eclectic, and atthe same time very feminine and ele-gant. She is sophisticated for her age.”

Sophisticated, indeed, Valentinoagreed. “Mischa feels comfortable inhigh fashion. Her youthful innocenceallows her to wear very sexy designs.I would very much like to see her inone of our fall 2004 HelmutNewton-inspired looks that wouldgive her an edge.”

Elie Saab is another designerwho would like to see Barton breakout, because he believes “she canpull off almost anything, even a verysevere look.”

Halston’s Bradley Bayou couldn’tagree more. “I would like to see herglam it up. She is too beautiful of awoman to not show off on the redcarpet.”

SAMAIRE ARMSTRONGSpunky, superstylish Samaire

Armstrong, 23, earned a fan baseon Fox’s “The O.C.” that’sfollowed her to HBO and thecomedy series “Entourage.”

TV shows or personal style,Armstrong’s got a knack forhitting a trend before it becomestired, then moving on to thenext. Maybe it’s because shesews her own clothes. Butdesigners such as Azria want tosee her in their looks.

Said Max Azria: “Samaire hasgreat personal style and innerconfidence, and seems to go forlooks that are edgy and eclectic. Ithink she’d look fantastic in ashorter length dress, something alittle irreverent that others mightnot be able to pull off.”

True, there are few who canpull off the itsy-bitsy skirts,diaphanous tops and funkyleggings that Armstrong wearslike a second skin, but CarmenMarc Valvo says he’d like to seethe pixie-ish actress trysomething a bit more classic.

“Samaire is so sweet andflirtatious,” says the New Yorkdesigner, “I’d like to see her insomething with swing to it —something Audrey Hepburnwould have worn.”

tv’s next-gen top 10

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Sarah Jessica Parker, Jennifer Aniston and their now-iconic senses of style may be relegated to syndication, but TV viewersthis season will hardly go without great — or, at least, entertaining — fashion moments. After all, Debra Messing, Tracee EllisRoss and Jennifer Garner return to their chart-topping, clothes-minded shows.

And Heather Locklear is back with “LAX,” while Kelly Osbourne makes her network, and true acting, debut with the teendramedy “Life as We Know It.”

Yet with a seismic shift under way on the air waves and the red carpet, WWD is marking the fifth anniversary of its TV’s Top10 Style Setters by recognizing the next generation — with some tips from designers on how their looks should evolve.

— Rose Apodaca Jones and Marcy Medina

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YOUR LEFT HAND L IVES FOR LOVE. YOUR RIGHT HAND LIVES FOR THEMOMENT. YOUR LEFT HAND WANTS TOBE HELD. YOUR RIGHT HAND WANTS TOBE HELD HIGH. WOMEN OF THE WORLD,RAISE YOUR RIGHT HAND.

THE NEW DIAMOND RIGHT HAND RING. MODERN VINTAGE, FLORAL, ROMANTIC AND CONTEMPORARY STYLES AT ADIAMONDISFOREVER.COM

LOS ANGELES — Have celebrities finally mastered the art of dressingup? Fashion don’ts usually run rampant at the Emmy Awards, butcelebrants at Sunday night’s 56th installment of the biggest awards nightfor television stars couldn’t help but notice how good they all looked.

“So many women looked gorgeous!” gushed Sarah Jessica Parker,who finally scored an Emmy after five years of nominations. “They

looked like they were wearing the clothes — the clothes weren’t wearing them,” shecontinued, poaching a famous quip from Coco Chanel — fitting, since Parker turnedout for the second straight year clad in Chanel Couture.

Coincidence? “I would never pick a favorite designer,” she declared, insistingthe choice of dress, not designer, was that of her husband’s, Matthew Broderick.“What do you think I am? Mad? It’s like fashion suicide!”

Instances of death by dress were fewer than seasons past, be it because of savvyor safety. Even the daring choice to go green, repeated several times in variegatedhues, worked. Best actress winner Allison Janney, in a goddess Monique Lhuilliergown, even joked on camera about the same shade of bright green she shared withfellow nom Mariska Hartigay, in Vera Wang, when she asked her to join her on stage.

“Sopranos” daughter Jamie-Lynn DiScala also arrived in a Lhuillier, in sage satincharmeuse. The designer, in fact, dressed the most stars Sunday night — four. (Andthat following a busy Saturday when she had an altar-bound Britney Spears and herbridesmaid to tend to.)

Glenn Close looked her best in a nude Oscar de la Renta, whom Jennifer Garneralso went with for an entirely different effect. The “Alias” star plucked her white,laser-cut lace ball gown, cinched at the waist with a black velvet ribbon, right offlast week’s runway in New York. Teri Hatcher was also one of the few who went

black and white — a dramatic, hand-painted Elie Saab Couture gown — during anevening otherwise colored in bold brights.

Even those who tend to live in sneakers and slacks looked forward to this nightto dress up. “You know, I only get to do this a couple of times a year. I do like tobreak out in a suit every once in a while,” said Ellen DeGeneres, who turned out inan undone Viktor & Rolf tux, while gal pal Alexandra Hedison appeared on her armin a black lace and nude gown by the Dutch duo.

Laura Linney wasn’t shy about naming favorites: “If I can, I’ll always wearPrada.” Likewise, Gabrielle Union had her own fail-safe: “Armani keeps you off ofthe ‘When bad clothes happen to good people’ list. I’m from Omaha, Nebraska,honey. I can’t be doing too much crazy business out there.”

Even newcomer Mischa Barton wasn’t about to go too out there. She wore a gold-beaded, Twenties-style Maggie Norris sheath. “I chose it because it’s really individualand comfortable — and I didn’t want something that was too dangerous to wear.”

“Cold Case’s” Kathryn Morris, in a tangerine Carmen Marc Valvo, offered somepractical advice. “Put it this way, I think a dress is a mistake if you’re worried aboutyour dress falling down. But you’ve got to fend for yourself out there,” she said,while glancing back to check her chiffon train. “Men who played basketball thismorning think they’re still on the court,” she tisked.

Apparently, so did a few women. “Miss? Miss! Can you please get off my train?”pleaded Kristin Davis, shrink-wrapped in a Prada black lace bustier dress, to oneguest while trying to pose on the red carpet.

Drea de Matteo, who spent four hours each day transforming into her


eye®


sophisticated ladies

Brad Pitt with

Jennifer Aniston in

Chanel Couture.

Brad Pitt with

Jennifer Aniston in

Chanel Couture.

Drea de Matteo in a

chiffon Thirties gown from

The Paper Bag Princess.

Drea de Matteo in a

chiffon Thirties gown from

The Paper Bag Princess.

Sarah Jessica Parker in Chanel Couture and

Fred Leighton jewels with Kristin Davis in

Prada with Fred Leighton jewels.

Sarah Jessica Parker in Chanel Couture and

Fred Leighton jewels with Kristin Davis in

Prada with Fred Leighton jewels.

Continued on page 16


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Sharon Stone in Elsie

Katz Couture and

Kwiat jewels with

Aisha Tyler in Giorgio

Armani with Erica

Courtney jewels at the

Fox party at Spago.

Portia de Rossi in

Givenchy with Diane

von Furstenberg for H.

Stern jewels.

Allison Janney in

Monique Lhuillier with

Lorraine Schwartz jewels.

Meryl Streep in

a Carolina

Herrera skirt

backstage at the

Shrine

Auditorium.

Cynthia Nixon in

Chaiken at the

Governor’s Ball.

Cynthia Nixon in

Chaiken at the

Governor’s Ball.

Mischa

Barton in

Maggie

Norris with

a Laura

Munder ring.

Melanie Griffith

in Versace with

Antonio Banderas in

Dolce & Gabbana.

Blair Underwood with

Heather Locklear in

Oscar de la Renta

and Lorraine

Schwartz jewels at

the Governor’s Ball.

Blair Underwood with

Heather Locklear in

Oscar de la Renta

and Lorraine

Schwartz jewels at

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“Sopranos” character, wanted to go a little lower-maintenance to the Emmys. Her blackand gold-trimmed vintage gown came from The Paper Bag Princess in West Hollywood.“I wanted to wear something that kept me covered up so I didn’t have to worry aboutsaggy boobs or shaving my legs,” she said.

It was a good thing, since Patricia Heaton spent the better part of her evening eyeballingthe toned physiques. “Heather Locklear, Sharon Stone, Jennifer Aniston. Wow! I mean, wheredo these women come from? I’m looking past the dresses right now. I want their bodies.”

Heaton, draped in striking, rainbow-striped Elie Saab Couture, was just eager toleave behind the jeans-and-sweater sets for a night. “When you play a housewife ontelevision, it’s nice to be able to splash out once a year. I just go for it.”

As usual, several husbands waited patiently on the sidelines while the flashbulbspopped, including Brad Pitt, who apparently understood his place for the evening. “I’mjust an accessory,” he grinned.

While the typically marathon show ended after the scheduled three hours, CherylHines, in an icy blue-beaded Norma Lenain, couldn’t wait to hit the after-party circuitas she entered the HBO fete at the Pacific Design Center in West Hollywood: “Wherecan I find a drink and a sandwich?”

Over at Fox’s bash at Spago in Beverly Hills, Ron Howard, jubilant from the bestcomedy win for his show “Arrested Development,” couldn’t agree more: “I’ve been toso many award shows in my life that you’d think by now I would’ve learned to pack asnack.”

Attendees had their pick of parties, with TV Guide, Entertainment Tonight, People,Showtime and “The West Wing” all hosting bashes around town. Not surprisingly,Stone and Diana Ross did the rounds, swooping in and out with only time for aspattering of air kisses.

Throughout the evening, young nominee Amber Tamblyn couldn’t stop checking hercell phone. Along with Edie Falco, Tamblyn hailed the return of Randolph Duke to thered carpet. The designer also served as a commentator for ABC.

“My friends have been text messaging me all night telling me, ‘Oh my God, [themedia] loves your dress!’” she cried. “I was just happy it fit.”

sophisticated ladies

STOCKING STUFFER: Nicole Richie didn’t needan Emmy nomination to get all glammed up— just a party invitation and a Roberto

Cavalli gown, paired with a Swarovski bag, Judith Ripka jewelry and her mom’s earrings, oneof which she broke. But Richie said she had doubts about her pale pink sequin gown at first.“It’s very sassy, but on the hanger, I have to be honest with you, it was so skinny, and I waslike, ‘Are you joking?’ I thought it was a sock!”

BUTT REALLY: At HBO’s Luxury Lounge at The Peninsula Saturday, finding her favoritejeans line made Debra Messing’s day. “I live in Citizens of Humanity,” she said. “They gotme my first compliment after having the baby. They were my motivation. They make mybutt look amazing.”

EASIER DOES IT: During his years as a regular on the red carpet, Randolph Duke seemed toalways leave a trail of drama in his wake. Either the tales were overblown, or age andhumility have calmed him down. The weeklong rush to create Amber Tamblyn’s berry gownfrom scratch didn’t involve “one moment of stress working with Randolph,” says stylist TodHallman, who’s transformed the “Joan of Arcadia” Emmy nom into a red-carpet rising star bydressing her in Valentino, Reem Acra and Dior for previous award shows. “Randolph hadapproached me about doing something, and since we really hadn’t found a dress we feltstrongly about, we thought, ‘Why not?’”

TO DYE FOR: Talk about accommodating. To coordinate her Lana Marks alligator clutch withher gown, Patricia Heaton enthused it took Marks “about 10 tries and 15 dyes — and$20,000 — to get it right.”

EMMY SCOOPS


Lake Bell in Nicole Miller

and H. Stern jewels with

Marsha Thomason

in Douglas Hannant and

H. Stern jewels at the

TV Guide party.

Lake Bell in Nicole Miller

and H. Stern jewels with

Marsha Thomason

in Douglas Hannant and

H. Stern jewels at the

TV Guide party.

Jennifer Garner in

Oscar de la Renta

with Neil Lane and

Chopard jewelry.

Jennifer Garner in

Oscar de la Renta

with Neil Lane and

Chopard jewelry.

Kathryn Morris in

Carmen Marc Valvo.

Kathryn Morris in

Carmen Marc Valvo.

Glenn Close in Oscar de

la Renta and Harry

Winston jewels with her

daughter, Annie Maude

Starke, at the HBO party.

Glenn Close in Oscar de

la Renta and Harry

Winston jewels with her

daughter, Annie Maude

Starke, at the HBO party.

Shannen

Doherty in

Diane von

Furstenberg

at the Fox

party at

Spago.

Nicole Richie and Paris

Hilton at Us Weekly’s

party at Spider Club.

Nicole Richie and Paris

Hilton at Us Weekly’s

party at Spider Club.

Kim Cattrall in

Pamela Roland with

Lorraine Schwartz

and Kwiat jewels.

Kim Cattrall in

Pamela Roland with

Lorraine Schwartz

and Kwiat jewels.

continued from page 12

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PORTIA DE ROSSIBe it Stella McCartney orVivienne Westwood, RobertoCavalli or Valentino, Portia deRossi loves fashion as muchas it loves her curvaceousfigure. “She looksprovocative but nevertrashy,” said Michael Kors,another de Rossi favorite.

The former “Ally McBeal”star has kept her rank inHollywood as one of thekooky siblings on Fox’s quirkydysfunctional-family comedy,“Arrested Development.” Inits first year for nominationeligibility, the show was upfor seven Emmys and wonfive, including one for bestcomedy series.

“It is refreshing to seesuch an elegant woman onsuch a smart and cleverprogram,” said Alberta Ferretti. “Portia has a swan-like beauty thatcomplements her style. She looks beautiful in soft and feminine fabricssuch as chiffon.”

Valentino, who’s dressed the 31-year-old Aussie native for theGolden Globes, pointed to de Rossi’s “height, fair complexion and longblonde hair — it’s impossible for her to look anything but stunning.”

Her fans would like to see her turn it up even more. “Because sheis such a beautiful woman,” said Halston’s Bradley Bayou, “I wouldlove to see her bring more glamour onto the red carpet.”

The award shows aside, de Rossi has a big-screen date next year,when Wes Craven’s werewolf-loose-in-L.A. thriller, “Cursed,” opens.She plays opposite Christina Ricci and a parade of pop cult figures.

Classic beauty and flaxen hair notwithstanding, Kors believes oneasset stands above the rest: “Portia has the best accessory any womancould ask for: a strong sense of self-confidence.”

MOLLY SIMSShe’s worked her way into livingrooms from “Old Navy” ad pitchmodel to prime-time star as thesmart yet sexy daughter on the NBChit “Las Vegas.” Yet Sims has beenracking up the fashions points bothas the featured face of Cover Girland as the designer-clad, all-American starlet on the red carpet.

“Molly Sims has a gorgeousface and beautiful smile,”Valentino noted.

In fact, the pearly Cheshiresmile; long, blonde locks, andreed-thin bikini body have drawncomparisons with legendary girls-you-wished-live-next-door FarrahFawcett and Cheryl Tiegs. Forfriend Michael Kors, the 30-year-old Kentucky native reminds himof another American icon: “Mollyreminds me of a young LaurenHutton. She always blends theidea of something sporty andsomething sexy and definitely hasfun with fashion.”

Emanuel Ungaro’sGiambattista Valli agreed: “I lovethe confidence in her femininity.She dresses in Ungaro sometimes,and I like the way she dresses likea real woman.” ASHLEE SIMPSON

She might be Jessica’syounger sister, but in recentmonths, Ashlee Simpson hasmanaged to carve out her ownidentity — musically andstylistically. In fact, sheproved her staying power onthe nation’s pop charts thissummer when her first album,the pop-rock “Autobiography,”hung in for a month —dropping a spot only when acompilation of Top 40 hitsfeaturing older sis Jessicaentered the fray.

The transformation ofSimpson, who turns 20 on Oct.3, is reportedly more organicthan studied; the real Ashleeemerged after three sugaryyears as a regular on the WBTV series “Seventh Heaven.”She was, after all, during thattime a big fan of punk actsGreen Day and Bad Religion.

She went black fromblonde. Her look pulls frompunk and Eighties-flavoredNew Wave. And she didn’tback off from showing a bitof sass in the MTV realityshow, “Ashlee,” chroniclingthe recording and launch ofher album.

“I think she has greatstyle,” enthused JenniferNicholson, who dressedSimpson in a cream cashmerehand-loomed lace minidressfor the recent MTV VideoMusic Awards in Miami. “Thecontrast with her dark hair —she is just adorable.”

Bradley Bayou agreed: “Ilike how Ashlee uses fashionto play up her youthfulnessand fun personality.” TheHalston designer believes shecan reach even higher in herstyle cues. “I would like to seeAshlee keep her young, sweetquality but add a little moresophistication to her look.”



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ELISHA CUTHBERTThe petite and pouty Canadian actress is just21, but Elisha Cuthbert has been making thered carpet rounds for four years, thanks to herhit Fox series, “24.” In 2005 she hits the filmpremiere circuit with the remake of “House ofWax” and the drama “Dot.”

“Elisha clearly has a sense of how to wear adress on the red carpet. I love her in bold colorand chiffon,” said Valentino, picking up on twoof the actress’ favorite things.

But she also never hesitates to try a newlook, and she has the confidence to pull it off. “Ifind Elisha to be a true style-setter, because sheis not afraid to take chances,” said ColletteDinnigan, who dressed her in an Eighties punkparty dress for the 2002 Golden Globes. “I wasexcited to see her choose such a playful look foran awards show. And she got rave reviews for it.”

Cuthbert embraces her youth and nevertries to dress beyond her years. Yet Elie Saabadmitted he “would like to see her continue toexperiment and become even more glamorousas she gets older.”

ALEXIS BLEDELThis 23-year-old “Gilmore Girl” issurely fashion’s sweetheart. Hercreamy skin and rosy cheeks areher best features, and her simplestyle highlights them, said Azria,who dressed the actress for theTeen Choice Awards.

“I think her porcelaincomplexion would lookstunning in rich, bright colors. Iwould dress her in somethingfeminine and flowing, like oneof my silk charmeuse gowns inaquamarine or plum,” he said.

Most designers agreed theywouldn’t overpower hernatural charm with severeclothes. “Alexis is just sorefreshing that we would wantto keep her looking that way,nothing too daring. Maybe evensomething short,” suggestedCarmen Marc Valvo.

But Ghost’s Tanya Sarnesees other possibilities. “Iwould like to see her do something very different…something over the top toshow that she has great range.” Of course, her poise and slender 5-foot, 7-inchframe make anything possible, and so does a past career as a model.

With four films set to release in the next year — including the Jane Austin-Bollywood remake “Bride and Prejudice” hitting theaters this fall — she’ll haveplenty of opportunities to hone her style.

LAKE BELLAfter last season’s stinton “The Practice,” LakeBell is back on David E.Kelly’s courtroomsequel, “Boston Legal,”also on ABC andbowing Oct. 3.

Lake — who’sfrequently likened toa young FrankieRayder — will repriseher role as theseductively feistyattorney Sally Heep.It’s only the latest in ashort yet packedcareer, which startedon the London stage,where she honed herrange of accents, andhas included the TVdrama “War Stories.”For “Boston Legal,” however, she’s easily slipping into Dolce &Gabbana, Donna Karan and Chanel.

“Lake has an exotic beauty and a warm personality, and it is verymuch reflected on the outside — she is a great one,” said Elie Saab,who dressed her in couture for this year’s Golden Globes, as well asfor other events. “I would like to see her in a full-length glamourousgown…which will show both her inner and outer beauty.”

While the 25-year-old Gotham native incorporates newdesigner pieces into her off-set wardrobe, she’s also anavowed vintage addict. Paper Bag Princess, Wasteland andDecades are among her regular haunts in Los Angeles.

“She can make a simple Stephen Burrows dress look like amillion dollars, because she has the body of a supermodel,” saidDecades owner Cameron Silver, who’s also sold her plenty of OssieClark and Forties-era looks. “She’s a dream to put clothes on.”



AMBER TAMBLYNShe’s mostdefinitelytelevision’s newdrama queen,earning a BestActress nod in thesophomore year ofher show, “Joan ofArcadia.” The 21-year-old also hasgotten attention forher fashion choices,which veer towardthe feminine andcolorful.

“The first year atthe awards, she wasthe new, youngprincess. This year we[looked] at itdifferently,” said herstylist, Tod Hallman.“It’s more young-adult sophisticated beauty. That Oscar de laRenta party dress silhouette is still amazing, but we are alsolooking at a sleeker side. We want to show how she’s evolved.”

Max Azria suggested, “Amber would look beautiful in aclassic silhouette. I would design something simple butluxurious for her, in an eye-catching color like jade or indigo.”

Carmen Marc Valvo concurred: “Amber can really glamit up for the red carpet,” he said, adding that the actressalso has a flair for choosing fun, casual looks, as well. NonyTochterman, who designs one of Tamblyn’s favorite lines,Petro Zillia, said, “I love Amber’s sense of style andsensibility for timing. She knows when to dress down forSaturday morning coffee and when to dress up for the redcarpet. She’s one beauty who’s not afraid to wear color andlet her personal style shine!”

4: Number of Monique Lhuillier gowns —most of any other designer on the red carpet.1: Number of vintage Christian Dior (onJorja Fox and courtesy of The Paper BagPrincess).12: Judith Leiber bags.7: Daniel Swarovski bags.$30,000: Value of the vintage Kwiatdiamond brooch on Joely Richardson’sevening bag.$185 : Retail value of the “Nip/Tuck” star’scustom-made lambskin bag by Surly Girl. 27: Number of karats in Sharon Stone’sKwiat earrings.$160,000: Value of Stone’s Kwiat rocks.27: Number of karats in Loraine Bracco’sChopard “Pushkin” earrings.$855,000: Value of that pair.5: Number of Emmy nods Sarah JessicaParker received during six years of “Sex andthe City.”1: Number of Emmy trophies.4: Number of Golden Globe trophies15,000: Number of cocktail napkins at theGovernor’s Ball.22: Number of bartenders there.10,000: Yards of fabric used to swathetables at the ball.1,200: Pounds of steak au poivre servedduring dinner.


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By Scott Malone

NEW YORK — Apparel and transportation executivesare preparing for a different kind of New Year’s Evehangover — the end of the worldwide quota system onJan. 1 will bring a surge in shipments from Asia to theU.S. and create the potential for backups at ports on bothsides of the Pacific Ocean.

Importers have been waiting a decade for the finalquotas on apparel and textiles to be dropped by the 147nations of the World Trade Organization. The moveshould lower the cost of buying foreign-made apparelbecause it will increase competition and end the quotacharges that are a major cost factor in countries such asChina, which supplies 16.6 percent of the U.S.’s import-ed apparel.

To avoid quota costs, importers said many firms mightdelay shipping early spring goods, that would normallymove by mid-December, until early January.

“There will be pretty heavy demand early in theyear,” said Brian Moore, director of apparel sales withocean carrier Maersk Sealand. “The pressure fromquota elimination is going to be pretty heavy.”

Moore said most Chinese ports, as well as Hong

Kong’s, will close for the week before the Feb. 9 ChineseNew Year holiday, meaning that the period from Jan. 1 toFeb. 2 will likely be a time of frenzied activity at the ports.January typically is not a heavy volume time for otherindustries, though, so there should be space available onships making the run from Asia to the U.S., he said.

Robert Sappio, senior vice president of Transpacifictrade for American President Lines, said, “January 2005is expected to be busier than previous years.” However,overall, the shipping business is experiencing fewer sea-sonal ups and downs in demand over the course of a year.

“The off-peak season is only marginally less busy thanthe rest of the year,” Sappio said.

Peter McGrath, president of purchasing at Plano,Tex.-based J.C. Penney Co., said he anticipated seeinghiccups in the supply chain early in 2005.

“We are expecting a bottleneck to occur,” he said. “Alot of people are trying to save the price of quota.”

Still, he said it was likely to be a brief annoyance.“That’s going to be a very short-term problem, a three-

week problem,” he said.Rick Darling, the New York-based president of Li &

Fung USA, said it was more likely that the delays wouldoccur at the unloading point — ports in the U.S. — rather

than Chinese ports or in Hong Kong. That’s because theAsian ports in the past have taken flexible approaches tosurges in demand, scheduling people to work extrahours or raising productivity expectations, he said.

January is typically not a peak month for the facility,said a spokeswoman for the Port of Los Angeles.

“We will just be working with the forecast figuresfrom the steamship companies and expect we’ll be ableto handle things,” the spokeswoman said.

The port handled 616,000 cargo containers in Januaryand 627,000 last month. August is typically a heavy vol-ume time.

Moore of Maersk Sealand said importers should lettheir carriers know in advance their plans for January toavoid backups.

“If we know about it early enough, in time to plan,we’ll ensure that our customers or our partners get what-ever we need to do for them to satisfy their in-distribu-tion center dates,” he said. “Sourcing and logistics haveto work closely on this.”

Importers said they believed the problem would beshort-lived.

“I don’t want it to sound traumatic because I don’tthink it is,” said Li & Fung’s Darling.


In TransitWWW.WWD.COM

Importers Ponder Port Backups

By John Zarocostas

GENEVA — One of the biggest obstaclesapparel makers face in seeking to honetheir competitive positions as quotas endon Jan. 1 may be in getting their goods tomarket, according to a World TradeOrganization study.

The survey concluded that freightcosts have greater influence on tradepatterns than tariffs, which will be one ofthe few remaining tools at governments’disposal to manage the textile andapparel trade after quotas are lifted.

“Differences across countries in trans-port costs, including relative costs betweenmodes of transport, are a source ofabsolute comparative advantage and affectthe volume and composition of trade,” theWTO’s World Trade Report 2004 said.

Shipping charges are crucial in deter-mining a country’s ability to participate in

the world economy and, ultimately, of itsexport competitiveness, the study said.The quality of transport infrastructureaffects trade, and poor facilities increasetotal costs, adversely affecting the time ofdelivery and eroding the potentialincome of local producers.

“Governments cannot hope to reapthe real benefits of open trade if they failto secure macroeconomic stability, sup-portive infrastructure, properly func-tioning domestic markets and soundinstitutions,” said SupachaiPanitchpakdi, WTO director general.

The report found that freight costs inpoor, developing countries average 70 per-cent more than in developed countries. InAfrica, they are particularly high, abouttwice the world average. In many coun-tries in Latin America, the Caribbean andAfrica, an importer pays more to transportthe goods ordered than for tariffs.

A 10 percent increase in transportcosts “may reduce trade volumes by morethan 20 percent,” the study concluded.Transport costs include freight charges,insurance, holding costs for goods in tran-sit and other related expenses.

An efficient logistic chain “is animportant determinant of a country’scompetitiveness, and helps reduce costsof transport, transit time and costs ofproduction,” the report said.

In rich countries alone, total logisticscosts — packaging, storage, transport,administration and management — areon average around 20 percent of totalproduction costs, the WTO estimated.

More efficient ports with better infra-structure and strong services for cargohandling and storage, as well as for ves-sel fueling and repair, represent a com-petitive advantage for exporters.

The report noted that countries withefficient customs clearance, such asLithuania and Singapore, can cleargoods on average within one and twodays, respectively. In countries withcumbersome customs clearance facili-

ties, such as Nigeria, it takes an averageof 18 days. In Ecuador, the average timeis 15 days, while in Kenya, it’s 14 days.

Each day spent in shipping is estimat-ed to add about 0.5 percent to the cost ofan item, the study said. Allowing freecompetition in the provision of port serv-ices — rather than granting monopolies— “may reduce prices on average by 9percent and the breakup of cooperativeworking agreements and price-fixingagreements could lower prices by 25 per-cent,” the WTO said.

The report said that in the lucrativeTranspacific ocean liner trade, the aver-age sea freight rate to haul from Asia tothe U.S. is more than double than therate to ship from the U.S. to Asia, andadded that while westbound shipmentshave experienced the greatest declinesince 2000, sea freight rates remainhighest for cargoes loaded in Asia.

In 2002, shipping a standard-size 20-foot container from Asia to the U.S. costan average of $1,502, the study said.Taking the same container from the U.S.back across the Pacific ran $768.

Study: Shipping Costs Key

Importers said they expect an

early-2005 surge in shipments to

West Coast ports, such as Long

Beach, Calif., to lead to delays.

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Textile & Trade ReportWWW.WWD.COM

NEW YORK — Invista, the $8.4 billion synthetic fiber powerhouse, saidMonday it plans to open a plant in China’s southern Guangdong provincethat will initially produce 12,000 tons of spandex annually.

The investment, which the Wilmington, Del.-based company valued at$100 million, is Invista’s first such move since being acquired by KochIndustries in April.

The factory, located in the city of Foshan, is projected to employ 100 peo-ple and open in mid-2006. Invista said the plant’s capacity could be doubledto 24,000 tons per year after a year.

“I believe this to be a milestone, in that new ownership with new eyes hasactually approved the first big capital project since we’ve come from DuPont,”said Bill Ghitis, president of global apparel for the former DuPont unit.

Invista planned for the fibers produced at the plant to be made intogarments for local consumption, he said.

“We’re investing in China for the Chinese textile industry and theChinese consumer,” Ghitis said. “We’re not going to be making stuff inChina to export.”

Invista operates 32 factories on four continents, producing spandex, poly-ester and nylon. It operates at two sites in China: a plant outside Shanghaiand a joint venture in the city of Lianyungang, in Jiangsu province.

Ghitis called the proposed plant “the first of several projects that we willbe approving globally.” He said the firm will “also be looking at acquisitions.”

Earlier this year, Invista rolled out a consumer marketing campaign inChina for its Lycra brand. In that market, the brand name will be pro-nounced “Laika,” he said. Its name in Chinese characters means “magicalexperience.”

With the 147 nations of the World Trade Organization set to drop theirquotas on textiles and apparel on Jan. 1, China is expected to expand itsposition as the U.S.’s leading source of textiles and apparel. For the yearended in July, Chinese suppliers shipped $13.08 billion worth of thosegoods, a 22.2 percent increase from the previous year, giving it a 16.6 per-cent market share, according to Commerce Department data.

— Scott Malone

Moda In Focuses on Bold Fall Patterns

Invista in China Expansion

By Phyllis Macchioni

MILAN — The Moda In show kicked off the European textile fairseason this month with a blaze of color and patterns for fall 2005 andwinter 2006.

The three-day fair, which wrapped up Sept. 10, featured fantasytweeds, bold patterns, bouclés and herringbones in traditional fall colorsfor outerwear, while tweed and basket-weave fabrics led fashion looksfor suits, jackets and dresses.

Exhibitors mixed retro hues with fresh colors and used unusual colorcombinations. As festive alternatives to black, they offered bronze andpale peach, as well as champagne and dusty rose in velveteen jacquard.Outerwear and daywear fabrics featured opulent, sensuous colorsranging from rich chocolate brown and burgundy to gold and turquoise.

Canclini, a Como, Italy-based company, showed winter-weightcotton, as well as cotton and wool blends in a range of plaids andchecks. Many of the soft cotton twills shown by Canclini haddistressed finishes and were designed for sportswear andcasualwear lines.

“I was inspired by the variety of colors and textures found on theleaves of the many chestnut trees that grow on the mountains aboveComo,” said Massimo Martone, the firm’s textile designer.

Deep fall colors also inspired the textured patterns, soft paisleys andbright-colored chenilles at Miroglio.

“We produce four lines of prints, plus raw fabrics and single-color fabrics in addition to 16 lines of clothing, which include theElena Miro brand and two lines for Krizia,” said product managerRoberto Chiarle.

In addition to patterns and textured bouclés in wool and woolblends, Miroglio showed brightly colored fine-wale cotton corduroywith some stretch properties.

The Serikos collection focused on texture, achieved by pleating andsewing the fabric to create honeycombed and rippled patterns.

“Most of our collection is still being finalized,” saidrepresentative Gino Parzianello. “We hope to have the complete lineready for the upcoming Paris textile fair,” he added, referring toPremière Vision, which opens today.

At Nordtessile, general manager Eugenio Tettamanti said, “Ourcolors for fall-winter 2005-2006 are intense.

“Just looking at this beautiful fabric puts you in a party mood,” headded, unfolding a bolt of deep violet watermarked taffeta.

In addition, the Como-based company offered wool in a classicbasket weave, plus striped chenille for daywear and colorfulpatterns for holiday and eveningwear.

Sexy and sophisticated fabrics were the theme at Nero su Nero,where fashion looks included velvet jacquards, some in deep jeweltones and others in pale shades of champagne, blush peach and paleaquamarine. The soft, iridescent tones were reminiscent of theThirties and added a retro touch to the line.

Gruppo Dondi exhibited rows of brightly colored jersey.“Our solid-colored jersey usually does well because it is so

versatile,” said Tommaso Ricci, sales representative. “It looks likeour patterned jersey is going to do well, too.”

Two striped cotton

fabrics from Canclini.

Two striped cotton

fabrics from Canclini.

Plaids and circles on

cotton fabrics lead Nero su

Nero’s fashion looks.

Plaids and circles on

cotton fabrics lead Nero su

Nero’s fashion looks.

Miroglio’s pink basket weave in wool and rayon,

and a colorful plaid in wool and polyester.

MILAN — Exhibitors at Moda In focused on their fashionofferings, which are key for small and midsized Italiancompanies trying to withstand intense competition frommanufacturers in the developing world.

That rivalry only will intensify next year, after the 147nations of the World Trade Organization drop their quotason textiles and apparel. A report recently released byISTAT, the Italian National Bureau of Statistics, statedthat Third World competition has severely affected theItalian textile industry.

In 2003, the Italians lost 7.3 percent of their textileexport market, which dropped to 4.3 million euros, or$4.9 million at last year’s average exchange rate. Thereport said export sales dropped an additional 6.2percent through the first quarter of 2004. — P.M.

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on track to reach 1 billion euros, or $1.22 billion atcurrent exchange, in volume by 2007 — and withprofitability in excess of 20 percent. (Dior’s beautybusiness has already surpassed the 1 billion eurothreshold.)

“This is exactly in line with the plan. The momen-tum of the brand is really strong worldwide,”Toledano said in an interview Monday at Dior’s grayand white headquarters here. “For the full year, weconfirm a significant improvement in the profitability.”

Christian Dior S.A., the holding company thatincludes LVMH and Christian Dior Couture, did notquantify the Dior profits; it provides that figure onlyannually. In 2003, operating profits zoomed 21 percent to40.1 million euros, or $48.9 million, as reported. Dollarfigures for the first-half results are at average exchange.

Still, Monday’s results demonstrate accelerating prof-itability, which Toledano attributed variouslyto rising sales per square foot, improveddeliveries and logistics, high creativityand tight cost controls in adminis-tration and production.

Sales in the six monthsended June 30 increased16 percent to 274 millioneuros, or $334.3 million, a 20 percent rise at constantexchange rates, as reported.

“In July and August, the trend was also very good, inAsia and the U.S., and Japan was very good as well,”Toledano said, noting that sales in the U.S. are up 43percent year-to-date in dollars.

On the women’s side, Toledano cited “excellent” per-formance of designs by John Galliano, in particular hisRasta line of bags and shoes, edged in red, gold and green.

A bowling-shaped bag with dice hardware called theGambler has also been taking off since deliveries beganlast month. “On Saturday, we were out of stock on thebest styles,” Toledano said. “We have a waiting list.”

In addition, Toledano highlighted rapid develop-ment of Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane, with all cate-gories of products — from suits to accessories — sellingbriskly at retail this fall. In fact, Dior quietly phasedout its more traditional men’s wear range this season infavor of Slimane’s lean-and-clean aesthetic.

Toledano cited strong consumer reaction to a rangeof high-end “colognes” Slimanedeveloped for sale in select Diorboutiques, and hinted a widerrollout may be forthcoming.

Looking ahead to the criticalsecond half, Toledano saidstore openings and product ini-tiatives will drive sales. Diorhas already opened more thana dozen locations this year —including Prague, Houston,Taipei and Waikiki — to bringits current store count to 172. Inthe coming months, units areslated to bow in Dubai, Macau,Hangzhou in China and Tokyo’sGinza district.

On the product front, initia-tives for the second half includea Slimane-designed men’swatch and a special range ofjackets by Galliano backed byan advertising campaign featur-ing Riley Keough, the daughterof Lisa Marie Presley and thusElvis’ granddaughter.

Operating profits for theholding company rose 14 per-cent to 1.01 billion euros, or$1.23 billion, while net profitsfrom current operationsjumped 36 percent to 217 mil-lion euros, or $264.7 million.The results echo LVMH’s num-bers published last week.Besting market expectations,the French luxury group saidoperating income rose 14 per-cent to 996 million euros, or$1.22 billion, as reported.


PARIS — Expect an added element ofintrigue at the Fendi show next week(Sept. 29) in Milan, as tensionsflared Monday between the Romefashion house and its ready-to-weardesigner, Karl Lagerfeld.

In an article published in theItalian daily Corriere Della Sera,Lagerfeld cites a revolving door ofmanagers at Fendi and shortcomingsin its design organization. He also isquoted about the difficulties ofrunning a fashion business in Romeand the general challenge ofmounting rejuvenation miracles infashion today.

Reached in Paris Monday night,Lagerfeld said he granted thenewspaper an interview only abouthis new collaboration with Swedishfashion giant Hennes & Maurtiz. Hedeclined comment on the Fendiarticle.

A spokesman for LVMH MoëtHennessy Louis Vuitton, parent of

Fendi, declined all comment.However, sources in Europe

suggested that the published remarksruffled a few feathers at the luxurygiant, which has remained quietregarding its strategy for the Italianfashion, fur and accessories house.LVMH recently described Fendi asbeing in an investment phase.

LVMH and Prada Group jointlyacquired 51 percent of Fendi in1999, with LVMH buying Prada’sstake in November 2001. It also hasbeen buying out shares held by Fendifamily members.

Lagerfeld, who has designed forFendi for more than 35 years, hasoften been vocal about inner turmoilat the company, including during thetime the founding family owned it.

According to market sources,Lagerfeld has several seasons left onhis current contract with Fendi, butnegotiations to renew it may havealready commenced.

Dior Bullish as Profits Soar 37 PercentWWW.WWD.COM

A New Fendi Flap for Karl Lagerfeld?

continued from page one

Sidney Toledano

“The momentum of the brandis really strong worldwide.”— Sidney Toledano, Dior

Dior cited

strong sales of

men’s wear

designed by

Hedi Slimane.

Top-selling accessories this

fall include Rasta shoes…

and Gambler handbags.

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26 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2004

CLOSEOUTS WANTEDSilks, fancies, upholsteries, unique

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OFF PRICE BRANDED APPAREL50-70% off Original Wholesale. Women’s,

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Showroom / Office / RetailWe find you space-best deal-no fee

Sublet 525 7th/readyGarment Center Real EstateCall Paul 212 947-5500 X 100

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Great ’New’ Office Space AvailADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500

Business VentureLeading women’s apparel manu-facturer seeks highly motivatedindividuals interested in start upor pre-existing opportunities.Individuals must possess strongsales and merchandising experi-ence. We provide financing, backoffice, shipping and productionsupport.Fax particulars in confidence to:

Mr. Jay 212-869-3639

Patterns/Samples/BeadingDuplicates Cut & Sew

Full Service - Small ProductionCall Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950

PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS

All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service.Call Sherry 212-719-0622.

PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS

Full servcie shop to the trade. Finefast work. 212-869-2699.

Willing to pay top $$$!Women’s contemporary company

seeks to share booth for the following:Fashion Coterie (9/28/04 - 9/30/04) and/or

Designer & Agents (9/27/04 - 9/29/04) Please email: [email protected]

FASHION INDUSTRY SPECIALISTSWHOLESALE AND RETAIL

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EXECUTIVE ASSISTANTto the CEO

CEO of a top fashion companyseeking dedicated, detail oreintedindividual with at least 2 yearsworking with the President of thecompany. Must be computer liter-ate, team player, detail oriented,and able to handle multi task proj-ects. Excellent benefits. Excellentopportunity for committed individ-ual. Salary commensurate withexperience.

Fax your resume andsalary requirements to

J. Taylor 212-869-3639

VP GENERALMERCHANDISE MANAGER 50M Apparel Mfr. seeks an exp’dRetail Men’s Divisional or GeneralMerchandise Mgr for key accountmanagement. Must be passionateabout the Retail Market and havelong standing relationships andcontacts. Relocation not required.$200K to 250K + StrongIncentives. Confidentiality Assured.

[email protected] 732-280-6190 Attn: Larissa

DESIGNERHANDBAGS/SLG’S

Well-established accessory co.seeks designer w/ 3-5 years exp.to design & merchandise a licensedbrand. Creativity, technical specs,computer skills & overseas travelexp. a must. For immediateconsidertation, e-mail detailedcover letter & resume to:

[email protected]

PATTERNMAKERWell established, high-end

women’s fashion designer(whose label can be found in Saks,Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf’s) isseeking highly exp’d ProductionPatternmaker. Must know factory

procedures. 5-10 yrs. exp. required.Fax resume: 212-268-0547

FREELANCE DESIGNERTrendy, Talented & Exp inIndia required for Hi-VolumePrivate Label Casual Sports-wear – Able to travel –Fax Resume to Sammy @

212-944-2452

ADMIN ASST/SHOWROOMImport Sweater Co seeks exp’d., organized,computer literate, detail oriented personable to multi task. Exp in garment cen-ter a must. Fax resume: 212-764-1825.

ADMIN/Operations Asst - Assist CFO/be computer lit/check payroll/handlebenefits & people/be sharp. $37-43KLes Richards Agcy-Call (212) 221-0870

Admin Since 1967

W-I-N-S-T-O-NAPPAREL STAFFING

DESIGN*SALES*MERCHADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION

(212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437

ASSISTANT DESIGNERA leading Home Furnishings Company has an immediateopening for an Assistant Designer position in its New York of-fice. Minimum of three years design experience in home fur-nishings or related industry is desired. Candidate must havea strong sense of color knowledge and familiarity with fabricand patterns. Must understand design specifications andconstruction details. This person must work well under pres-sure, maintain a good attitude and have an eagerness tolearn. Good communication skills, organization and atten-tion to detail are needed to be successful. Travel will be re-quired. Candidates should send resume with cover letter in-cluding recent salary history to

[email protected] or fax to 704.522.4704 with "Assistant Designer" in the subject line

APPAREL JOBS1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)SpecTechs3)Designers-assoc-assists boy-girl-YG men-JrCall (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy)

A/R ASST. MGR.B Robinson Optical, a well establishedeyewear firm seeks A/R associate tohandle collection work, daily bankdeposits, posting of payments, postingof monthly credits, and EOM report-ing. Competitive salary incl. excellentbenefits package.Please fax resume to: 212-683-0437 or

E-mail to: [email protected]

BOOKKEEPERWanted: Full-charge bookkeeper forgrowing womens apparel company.Knowledge of peachtree a must. Someoffice administration as well. Min. 5yrs exp. Pls. fax resume w/salary historyand requirements to: 212-334-6738

Buyer $65K+JR. sportswear collection better exp. 20+ stores

Jennifer *Just Mgmt* [email protected]

BUYER

Women’s Wear Boss!Boyds Philadelphia, the premier upscalemen’s retailer seeks an individual tospearhead their 7500 sq. ft. expansioninto the better women’s business. Buy-ing, selling, managing, marketing. Musthave experience in upscale women’sapparel and must live in Philadelphiaarea. Unique opportunity to pioneerthis business. Excellent compensation!Fax resume: 215-564-2876 or E-mail:[email protected]

CAD DESIGNERNYC Apparel company seeking CADDesigner with at least 1- year experi-ence. Must know Illustrator andPhotoshop. Please email resume to

[email protected]

CAREERS IN APPARELIn Production - Techn. Design + DesignSee Listings @ www.ApparelStaffing.com

Design Assist/ Production Assist

Seeking Design Asst. for sourcing, de-sign idea, must have knowledge ofPhotoshop and Illustrator. Also seek-ing Production Asst. Must have con-temporary experience. Fax resume:212-997-4186

DESIGN ASST.Junior cut & sew/sweater manufacturerseeking highly motivated self-starterto join our team. Responsibilities includeassisting with: sketching, specing,fittings, boards. Knowledge of CAD isa plus. Recent grad o.k. Please E-mailresumes to: [email protected]

Designer - Children’sChildren’s sportswear company needsfull time exp’d designer. Must be tech-nical, able to spec, grade and preparetechnical packages & communicatewith overseas factories. Strong trend,brand & fashion knowledge. Photoshop,Illustrator. No freelance. Norwood,MA. E-mail: [email protected].

Designer house is looking to hire a collabo-rator - Draper/Patternmaker to work direct-ly w/ designer. Must have minimum 7years of experience.

Fax resume w/ salary requirements to:212.840.3630 attn: Michelle

DESIGNERLeading Manufacturer of missy careerwoven and knits is seeking a designer.Requires a great eye for print, color andtrend. Will be proactive in fabricdevelopment/print/embroideriesand fol-low up with overseas offices. Strongcommunication, organization skills amust, as well as ability to flat sketchwith understanding of garmentconstruction and fit. Should be computerliterate. Large company w/good benefits.

For interview fax 212-921-7713

DESIGNERNEW ERA CAP, a global headwear Co.located in Western NY, is looking for anexperienced Designer with a strongportfolio of original work to developinnovative new headwear products fromconcept through prototype development.

Send resumes & salary requirements to:[email protected]

EOE

DESIGNERS - Men’sContemporary/Urban. Exp req’d. Goodcolor sense, exp w/ CAD and prints.Freelance ok. Fax resume: 213-748-3625.

DESIGNERSPORTSWEARMajor public apparel co. seeks candi-date to create moderate contemporaryseparates with 5+ years exp. Musthave a strong background in wovenbottoms, skirts, & jackets. The abilityto identify emerging trends & silhou-ettes. Must possess great color, print,& pattern sense w/the understandingof fabrics. Must be organized, detail-oriented, able to meet deadlines, & bea team player. Must have computerskills. Position in BOSTON Hdqtrswith excellent salary & benefits.

Fax resumes to HR: 617-332-3260

DESIGNERS•VP Dsgn Better Vert Retailer $250K•SR Designer Sweater Contemp $120K•Designer Suits Vert Retailer $120K•Designer Childrens Girls & Boys $120K•Designer Dress Pvt Label Mfr $95K•Designer Asst Childrens $45K•Designer Assists All Categories [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400

FABRIC MANAGERWomens wear mfr. seeks fabric coord.w/ 5 yrs exp. in import. Must havecontacts w/ European and Asian mills.Comp lit. a must.

Fax resume to Lynn : 212 382-0237

GeneralMerchandise ManagerReporting directly to the CEO, you willmerchandise the entire bebe line, andimpact every product that hits ourstores. These top level initiativesrequire the creative focus to not onlyidentify and predict trends, but toextend and enhance their presencethrough others. That’s why we seekthe collaborative spirit to partner withdesign, production, planning andallocation, visual, and marketing. Yourbackground must also spotlight thegreat leadership to motivate a talentedstaff of DMMs and buyers; 10+ yearsin retail buying and merchandising;and strong product management expe-rience. Please e-mail or fax yourresume, indicating General MerchandiseManager in the subject line of your cor-respondence, to: [email protected],(415) 657-4445.

Graphic DesignerGraphic Designer for marketing andpromotion materials. Must have a min.2 yrs. exp. in print prod’n. MAC skillsincl. Photoshop, Quark and Illustrator.Please email resume w/ cover letter to:

[email protected] orFax: (212) 382-1916

GRAPHIC DESIGNERWell established accessories co seeks agraphic artist w/ 3-5 yrs exp. Full bene-fits package. Excellent oppty. Macplatform a must. Fax res 212-302-2753

IMPORT ASSISTANTEstablished Womens and Childrensapparel mfr seeks an experiencedteam player for fast paced importdepartment. Duties include writingP.O.s for Caribbean and Overseaspackage suppliers and coordinatingand following up all elements of trimand spec sample requirements. Candi-date must be organized and have goodcommunication and computer skills.Fax your resume with salary require-ments to Mark Rubin: 212-444-6019

ORDER ENTRYEstablished Sportswear Co. seeks expe-rienced garment center, Order Entryperson. Be a self starter, able to multi-task, organized with excellent Computerand communication skills. Fast pacedenvironment/benefits.

Fax: 212-768-7773 or e-mail:[email protected]

"Passion for Fashion"Production Director (Jrs) ........100-125KProduction....................................40-65KSourcing Asst ...............................30-40KPlanners / Analysts ......................40-85KDesigners (many areas).............40-150KSales Asst’s....................................30-35KAuto CAD Designer .....................50-65K

"ON THE MARKS"Many other opportunities available.

Call 212-986-7329 or Fax 212-986-7708

PATTERNMAKERMfr of Jr/Missy/Large Size Sportswear

seeks exp person for all phases ofpattern prod’n. Call Tony 212-239-6380.

PATTERNMAKERSavvy, Professional Patternmaker w/ abackground in children’s or women’sapparel needed for prod’n samples foroverseas. Sewing a plus! Call 212.371.9767

PDS PATTERNMAKERS•DESIGNER Sportswear-Lectra $100K•JACKETS & SUITS-Gerber $80-85K•BRIDAL EVE DRESS-Gerber $85-90K•TEACHER of PDS to PatMkrs [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400

PHILADELPHIA JOBS•Patternmaker Better Dresses $70-78K•Technical Designer [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400

Prod Admin Assistant Major sptswr importer seeks a motivatedperson for fast paced productiondepartment. Must be computer literate,highly organized and detail oriented withstrong communication skills. Garmentexp. and CTL knowledge a plus. Fullcompany benefits. Room to grow!

Please fax resume to:JM @ 212-944-2867

Production AssistantEveningwear Co seeks Production Asstwith 2-4 years experience to handledata entry, shipping, phones and vari-ous duties in a production dept. Musthave understanding of garmentindustry, pattern layout and clothingconstruction. Please fax only if youmeet the above criteria: 212-221-0509

Production Assistant Leading children’s wear importer seeksan experienced production assistant.Responsibilities include daily e-mailcommunication with oversea factoriesand all phases of approval process. Idealcandidates must have 2 to 3 years exp;knowledge and understanding of gar-ment construction, knit and woven fab-rics; must be detail oriented with goodcommunication skill, computer skilland able to work under pressure. Alsomust be a team player.Please fax resume & salary requirement

to: 212-564-5201 Attn. CB

PRODUCTIONBilingual, Chinese/English. Import

sourcing desirable. Fax (212) 391-1033Or Email: [email protected]

PRODUCTIONCOORDINATOR

Est’d lifestyle mnftr. seeks exp’d prodcoord. Must be organized and detailoriented w/excellent communication

and follow up skills. No travelrequired. Competitive salary and

benefits. Please fax resume to212-643-0684 or E-mail resume to

[email protected]

Production CoordinatorMajor Sptswear Importer seeks experi-enced team player to be part of fast pacedprod. dept. Candidate must be organized,great w/ details, have outstanding commu-nication and computer skills. The abilityto multitask a must. Some domestic prod.exp a plus. Employee friendly with fullcompany benefits!

Please fax your resume to:JM 212-944-2867

PRODUCTIONCoordinators-Better Pvt Label Mfr $40-50KEDI Coordinator-Kids 7-16 Girls $50KProduction Coord-Kids Biling Chinese $50KProduction Assistant-Private Label [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400

PRODUCTION -DOMESTIC TECH

Established Women’s Sportswear Co.seeks person with 3-5 yrs exp. Experi-enced in purchasing piece goods &trims. Understands pattern making,marking, grading and cutting tkts.Know all facets of Domestic Produc-tion. Able to multi-task, speak/writeEnglish, computer literate. Fast pacedenvironment/benefits.Fax resume: 212-768-7773 or e-mail:

[email protected]

PRODUCT MANAGERWe seek a Product Manager to workwith the design team and sales groupfrom development stage through ship-ping. Knowledge of retailer reportingand quality systems (i.e., Partners OnLine to pull up reports, factoryregistration) required. Garment andfabric testing procedure as well as casualwoven bottoms experience, knowledgeof bottom washes, finishes and fabricconstructions a must.

Minimum 3-5 years experience. Goodcommunication skills and analyticalability to interpret customers in stockrequirements (to read ladders and beable to monitor whse stock).

Please fax or email resume to:646-366-0288 or [email protected]

Receptionist- Children’s-

Sleepwear Company seeks reception-ist experienced with multiple phonelines. Please send resume and salaryrequirements to 212-279-2590

Sales Assistant Established, fast paced ladies apparel coseeks a detail oriented, organized, indivto work closely with VP of Sales. Followup customer sample needs and deliver-ies. Coordinate with production on SalesLine Sheets, Coord Nat’l Sales Mtg. Plusmuch more. Must have excellent commu-nication and computer skills. If you aredescribed as fast paced and a multi tasktype person, please apply for this excit-ing oppty. Excellent benefits.

Fax to 212-391-5268or email to [email protected]

SALES ASSISTANTEst’d lifestyle manftr seeks exp’d sales

assistant. Must be organized anddetail oriented w/ excellent follow upskills. Competitive salary and bene-fits. Computer skills required. Please

fax resume to 212-643-0684 E-mailresume to [email protected]

SALESEst’d lifestyle manftr seeks exp’d salespeople w/ retail contacts. Must be ag-gressive to open new accounts whileexpanding current business. Unlimit-ed growth potential. Competitivesalary and benefits. Please fax resumeto212-643-0684 or E-mail resume [email protected]

SamplemakersFor Couture Evening Co. Experiencea must. Excellent salary. Please call:

212-944-7144


By David Moin

NEW YORK — Mervyn’s has is-sued a search for a new leader,following the departure of itspresident, Diane Neal.

Two officials at the companysaid Neal’s last day was Friday,but they had no information onwhether she was forced out orresigned.

A source outside the companysaid Herbert Mines Associateshas been retained to search for achief executive officer. Hal Reiter,ceo of Herbert Mines, could notbe reached late Monday after-noon to confirm the report.

“They’re looking for a ceo totry to make the retail businesswork, but the investors have asafety valve in the real estate,”said a retail source. “That’swhere the underlying value is.”

Last July, Target Corp. an-nounced that it would sell Mer-vyn’s retail operation to a groupof investors led by Sun CapitalPartners Inc. and Cerberus Capi-tal Management LP for $1.2 bil-lion in cash. The deal was closedearlier this month. Target alsosold Mervyn’s credit card receiv-ables of $475 million to GEConsumer Finance .

The total price tag is about 10times Mervyn’s pretax profits of$160 million. Target also namedLubert-Adler/Klaff and PartnersLP as part of the “investment con-sortium” buying the nameplate.

Since the deal was closed ear-lier this month, more manage-ment changes are likely to occur.

Mervyn’s profits and marketshare have been shrinking amidtougher competition from otherdiscounters, department storesand mass merchants, includingKohl’s, Wal-Mart and FederatedDepartment Stores.

Mervyn’s is based in Hayward,Calif., and operates 257 stores in13 states, mostly in the West andSouth. Mervyn’s sales for 2003were $3.6 billion. The deal to theinvestment group includesMervyn’s distribution centers.

Sun Capital has been activein the retail industry, with suchprior acquisitions as Sam Goody,SunCoast, Media Play, AnchorBlue and Wickes Furniture.

Cerberus is considered a vul-ture fund, which has been makinginvestments in distressed compa-nies. Last year the firm boughtFila. Cerberus also bought or fi-nanced troubled companies suchas specialty retailer G&G, textilesupplier Guilford Mills and inti-mate apparel retailer Frederick’sof Hollywood.

The investors could recouptheir investment in Mervyn’s byselling off certain locations,while still maintaining a core re-tail operation in a strategy simi-lar to Kmart’s. Edward Lampert,ceo of ESL Investments, bailedKmart out of bankruptcy and be-came the majority shareholderand the chairman of the companyand has been selling off locationswhile attempting to shore up theretail stores with improved mer-chandise, less clutter and easier-to-shop layouts in the stores.

Mervyn’s, Neal Part WaysBy Lisa Lockwood

NEW YORK — J. Gene Hochfelder, former chair-man and chief executive officer of BeldochIndustries, which under his leadership becameone of the largest domestic sweater manufactur-ers and held the Pierre Cardin license forwomen’s apparel, died here Sunday.

Hochfelder, 82, had been ill for several yearsand died in his Manhattan apartment from com-plications from two strokes he suffered last yearand in 1995, said Thomas Hochfelder, one of hisfive sons.

Known for his business acumen and dynamicpersonality, Hochfelder built Beldoch into a $70million knitwear powerhouse in the Nineties.Beldoch, a proponent of domestic manufacturing,owned several sweater factories in WestHempstead, N.Y., and produced knitwear andsportswear under such labels as Alberoy, BeldochPopper, Beldoch Petites and Pierre Cardin, aswell as Knitmakers private label. Hochfelder soldthe business to Donnkenny in 1995 and retiredfrom the company.

Born in Cedarhurst, N.Y., in 1922, Hochfeldergraduated from the Wharton School at theUniversity of Pennsylvania in 1943. He served as acaptain in the U.S. Marines, where he spearhead-ed landings in Guadalcanal and Iwo Jima, andwas awarded the Silver Star, Presidential Citationand Bronze Star. After the war ended, he startedBogene Manufacturing, a housewares and gar-ment bags business, which he sold to ScovillManufacturing in 1969. In 1971, he joined his fa-ther-in-law Albert Beldoch’s business, BeldochIndustries, as president. The sweater company,which Albert Beldoch began in the Thirties, wasoriginally known as Beldoch Popper.

Three of Hochfelder’s sons were involved inthe Beldoch business: James joined in the Sixtiesand founded Alberoy, a hot juniors resource in theSixties and Seventies; Thomas joined in 1971, atthe same time as his father, and headed up the

Knitmakers private label division, and Andrewjoined in 1978 and ran Beldoch’s manufacturing.Andrew and Thomas left the business in 1999, andJames left in 2002.

In the early Seventies, Gene Hochfelderbrought Pierre Cardin into the fold. “He saw thefuture of designer apparel in America, and in 1973got the license for Pierre Cardin women’s appar-el,” said Thomas Hochfelder. “[Eventually] underGene’s leadership, the corporation grew to over$70 million at wholesale.”

“He was a very dear friend,” said Hal Upbin,chairman and ceo of Kellwood Co. “I met him 10years ago when we were looking at his company tobuy it. We didn’t reach a deal, but he was such acharming and smart guy, we remained friends.

“He was a good, but tough businessman,”added Upbin. “He was a bit of a mentor. We’dmeet, have dinner and talk about the business.”

“He was a kind, gracious and dynamic leader,”added Laurence C. Leeds Jr., chairman ofBuckingham Capital Management. “He built abusiness during a period where so many of hispeers were failing, and he survived. He wassmart, had a great sense of humor and he main-tained the ability to laugh at himself.”

Hochfelder was active in the fight against im-ports and served as an officer in the NationalKnitwear and Sportswear Association. He wasalso chairman and an honoree of several UnitedJewish Appeal, Anti-Defamation League andIsrael Bond drives. An avid golfer, Hochfelderwas president of Glen Head Country Club andwas a Scout Master and Little League coachwhile raising his five sons on Long Island. Hisfirst wife, Patricia Beldoch Hochfelder, died 22years ago, and he is survived by his second wife,Carol Ostrow, whom he married in 1984. In addi-tion to Thomas, James and Andrew, he is also sur-vived by two other sons, John and Peter, 13 grand-children and four great-grandchildren. Serviceswill be held today at Riverside Memorial Chapelhere at noon.

J. Gene Hochfelder, Ex-Beldoch CEOWWW.WWD.COMObituary

SOURCING MGR $110-120KModerate Market, Knits/Wovens, Jeans,Washing Knldge. Trim Sourcing, QuotaDuties, FOB/LDP’s, Far East, Africa.Must have Factory base in [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400

Spec Tech Leading NYC childrenswear manufacturerof newborn/infants seeks Spec Tech withminimum of 1 year experience in knits &woven garment construction and apparelimport experience. Candidate will in-terface with designers & overseas man-ufacturers. Responsible to write specsand prepare spec packages for overseasproduction. Must be accurate with first fitthrough production. Exp. required in specpkgs, patternmaking, garment con-struction, measurements & fitting. Ex-cel, Adobe Illustrator.E-mail resume w/salary requirements

to [email protected] fax to 732-636-4764

SWEATERS*TD-Bilingual Chinese $70K•TD-Better Bridge $70K•Production-Better Pvt Label [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400

TD-1st Devel Tech Jackts/Bttoms $65KTD-MANAGER Better Bridge $85-100KTD-BETTER WOVENS Jrs $75-85KTD-Kids Wovens/Knits Tops/Btms$70-85KTD-KNITWEAR $80KTD-JEANSWEAR $70KTD-SWIMWEAR/Foundation $70KTD-LONG ISLAND CITY $40-50KTD-KIDS-Better Market $35-$50K SPEC COORD/TECHS Better $37-57KTD’s TEMPS All products [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400

Tech Designer-SweatersImport Sweater Co seeks exp’d indiv.for fits, grading & extensive overseascomm. Must have 3-5 yrs import sweaterexp. Brooklyn location. Fax 212.764.1825

TECHNICAL DESIGNER $60KStretch Knit, Great Company!

Fashion Network: 201-503-1060/Fax 1070

Technical DesignersTechnical Designers with 3-5 years exp.in Ms, Jrs., RTW. Responsibilities in-clude developing production specs, fit-ting & communication with our overseasoffices. Qualified candidates must havestrong patternmaking and computerskills. Please send resume with salaryrequirements to Alison M. at:

Fax: (212) 947-7654

Technical Design/ProductionMajor Jr Denim Import/Mfg seeks anexperienced individual to be responsiblefor initial to production spec packages fordevelopment, analyze fit samples andcommunicate with over seas offices/followup. Must be computer literate.

Fax resume & salary requirementsattn: RS at 212-398-2287

Tech /Spech Tech $50-$70K.Kids. Speak Chinese. Strong Illustator

Jennifer*Just Mgmt* [email protected]

WISCONSIN JOBSPattmaker & Tech Designer. Temp/Hire

[email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400

7th AvenueDesigner Sportswear

CollectionSeeks experienced

salespeople to grow itsexpanding collections.Candidates should havemin. of 5 years exp. Faxresume in confidence to:

509-757-7814

Allen B. Men/Allen B. Women’sby Allen Schwartz

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVEContemporary / Designer resource seeking (2) upbeat and selfmotivated individual. Candidate must have strong sales andmerchandising skills with a working knowledge of fashion.Must have established account relationships with contemporary/designer specialty stores, department stores and internationalaccounts. Minimum 3 years experience required.

Please email resume to: [email protected] Fax: (212) 840-0092

ACCOUNT EXECSStrong Account Execs for children/teen accessories. Current contactsw/majors, mass drug & sports chains.$$$$. Call Laurie: 212-947-3399 oremail: [email protected]

KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS

Account ExecutiveTIBI, a women’s young designer line,is looking for a high energy fabuloussales executive with department andspecialty store experience. Candidatemust be familiar with the young designermarket and be able to manage andmaintain accounts on all levels.Please fax resume to : (212) 966.2961

GICLEESales Executive

Seeking dynamic, experienced salespro for import women’s sportswearcompany. Must be aggressive, motivatedand have strong department store &specialty store connections. Cataloguecontacts a plus. Great opportunity.

Please fax resume to: 212-734-5091

Key Account SalesBetter evening dresses

Dept. & Chain Store contacts.Call: 212-730-1070

Nouveau Fabrics IncA major design house specializing inheat transfer prints, novelty items inclwet prints & solid basic items is seek-ing a fresh, innovative & aggressivesalesperson to cover the NY market.

Please fax resume 212-382-1341

Private LabelGarment Sales

Int’l textile co. seeks highly exp’d, ag-gressive seller for garment prod’n inFar East. Must have strong est’d con-tacts w/ apparel mfrs. Salary/commcommensurate with experience. Min.10 yrs. exp. Pls. fax confidential res:

(212) 575-7891

Sales AssistantFast growing better/contemp. women’sshirts co. seeks an energetic individualfor sales position in NY showroom.Must have excellent comm. skills, behard working and detail oriented.Please fax your resume to 212-354-6052

or E-mail: [email protected]

Sales DirectorTop Contemporary multi line showroom isseeking seasoned sales professional withproven track record. Strong SpecialtyStore following a must! Relationships withNordstrom’s, Saks, Bloomingdale’sand thelike are neccessary. Candidate must havestrong organizational skills, and be pre-pared to lead a sales team. Ability to startfor Coterie a plus. Salary + commissionstructure commensurate with experience.Fax resume in confidence to: 212-997-7778

Sales ExecutiveBridge designer knitwear co. seeksexp’d bridge sales pro with strongstore contacts. Must generate newand maintain existing accounts. Min.5 years exp. Team player req’d.Fax resume to (212) 695-9483 or [email protected].

SALESGroup of Southeast Asia apparel factories,with a sales office in NY, seeks a highlymotivated salesperson to sell stocks andprivate label. Min. 5 yrs. exp. Must haveexcellent contacts with Dept./Specialty/Discount stores. Ideal candidate shouldbe able to generate sales and meetestablished sales targets. Candidatemust be a team player, detail oriented& possess excellent written and verbalskills. Travel required. Base+ Commission/Benefits. Please e-mail resume to:

[email protected]

Sales - Showroom ModelEvening Dress Company seeksspecialty store salesperson and

showroom modeling size 8.Fax resume to 212-391-8753

Sales Trainee Wtd.High energy apparel co. seeks bright,energetic person w/ great communica-tion skills and an interest in sales. Willmaintain showroom, good organizationaland multi-tasking skills a must. Strongclient follow-up and strong computerskills a must. Must have knowledge ofExcel and digital imaging software.

Please fax resume to:Attention Tamar @ (212) 768-2835

SHOWROOM SALESNY Junior Bottoms mfr. seeks an exp’d

salesperson with Dept. & Specialtystores to bring in new business.

Please fax resume to (212) 921-7817

STORES DIRECTORFor prestigious retailer of fine fra-grance, leather and gifts. EstablishedBritish retailer looking for strategic,experienced manager to lead expan-sion of US retail stores.Requirements: Proven leader with atrack record of success achieving salesand profit objectives. 10+ years experi-ence in retail store management.General computer proficiency. B.A.Extensive travel. Salary commensu-rate with experience. NYC based.

Send resumes to:[email protected]

PAUL&SHARKImmediate part time Sales position fora qualified sales person.Please fax 212-452-9861 Attn: Sal Cretella

PAUL&SHARKOPENING IN

SO. FLORIDA 12/03Has openings for a Sales Manager andComplete Sales Staff, Salary + Com-mission, Great Benefits Package.Please fax resume to 212-452-9861

Attn: Sal Cretella

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Dress by Bradley Bayou for Halston. Fabric by cotton.Cotton.The fabric of our lives.® www.cottoninc.com

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