RETROCOLLECTIVE

THE

CONVERSE101 YEARS OF PUTTING THE BOOT IN

LEVI STRAUSSTAKING NO PRISONERS WITH THEIR NEW VINTAGE COLLECTION

FILM MUSIC FASHION GADGETS CARS LIFESTYLE

CLASSIC STYLE. MODERN VIEWPOINT.

MELLOTRONFROM PROG ROCK TO SAMPLING:THE INSTRUMENT WITH EVERLASTING APPEAL

3-D CINEMA

THE BEST T-SHIRTS FROMBOTH SIDES OF THE ATLANTIC

USA VS UK

IN-DEPTH VIEW

INSPIRED

26 LEVI’S32 CONVERSE36 MELLOTRON42 3-D

46 BLACK IN THE DAY47 BACK IN THE DAY48 MICHAEL FISH

4 TOP FIVE10 LIFESTYLE14 GADGETS20 MOTORING24 T-SHIRTS

FEATURES

PERSPECTIVE

Welcome to The Retro Collective, a monthly magazine international in

outlook and co-operative in spirit.We’re all about style, whether that’s anindividual’s scene or the products fromthe world around them.

TRC was conceived in the Defectors Weld, Shepherds Bush, inFebruary 2009 after a conversation aboutthe heritage of a mate’s new Crombie.

In May 2009, five NCTJ trainedjournalists ranging in age from 23 to 54with experience spanning from nationalnewspapers to high-end lifestyle magazines, met at the JournalistWorks in Brighton and began workingon The Retro Collective.

Each issue will feature our Inspired product reviews featuringlifestyle, gadgets, motoring, in fact anything that portrays classic style in amodern, contemporary way.

We will also include in-depth features on brand heritage, iconic individuals, historic events and groundbreaking innovations.

As a collective, we are always onthe lookout for individuals who are passionate about classic style from amodern viewpoint. If you would like tobe a regular contributor or just write aone-off piece, drop a line to:editor@theretrocollective.com

Cheers,

Bruce HudsonThe Retro CollectiveClassic Style. Modern Viewpoint.ED

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Cover image from the Diwon Man Autumn/Winter 09 Collection

Looking for adventure, well the Confederate Motor Company fromthe deep south of the States should satisfy the wanderlust. Bornwith an ethos of rebellion being ‘adopted as fundamental to the pursuit of personal empowerment’ Confederate’s latest offering,

the F131 Hellcat Combat, features a design specific hand ported and polishedhead design, ultra high compression, special camshaft grind, retuned intake system, which result in a 12% gain in rear wheel horsepower and a 4% increase in rear wheel torque. Forget all that, this beast, looks spankingly cool.With only 150 available, you’ll feel like an especially wild one when you hit themotor running and ease this baby down the motorway. www.confederate.com

THE

TOP

FIVE1 The F131 Hellcat Combat

Who would have thought?Smeg do dishwashers. Weshould know this at TRC, but

it seems they’ve gone under theradar of most of the Collective. Sowe’ve just put that right! I bet youWallace and Gromit won’t be feelingso Smug when they find out.www.smeguk.com

THE

TOP

FIVE3

This launch, from a New York fashion house, is going for a slimmed down look

‘resulting in a sleek silhouette that will define our contemporary minimalism’.

No, we don’t know what that means either but we love their thin-lapelled suits

and rectangle ties. With an influence of Brooks Brother’s Mad Men in the

range (see front cover) these boys have a real future. They also do a superb

line in accessories. www.diwonman.com

THE

TOP

FIVE2

Diwon Man Autumn/Winter Collection

Smeg Retro Dishwasher

This was Brandon Schaefer’s firstmovie poster produced after a design break and his first fully computer illustrated piece. His website’s brilliantly minimalisticblurb says ‘I’m Brandon. I makethings!’ and you can’t get fairer thanthat. You can get hold of Brandonand see his other work at: www.seekandspeak.com

Dark Knight PosterTHE

TOP

FIVE4

Jimmie Martin is a designer of modern furniture with a classically-edgy twist. Commissionedby the likes of Kylie, DawnFrench and Kelly OsborneJimmie’s generated an awesome amount of publicity for a brand thathas only been in existencesince 2004. We’re big fansand TRC is already thinkingabout next year’s footie inSouth Africa, sitting on ourJimmie Martin, donning ourunion jack boxers andcheering on the lads. Youcan’t get more patriotic thanthat. Rooonnnneeee!www.jimmiemartin.co.uk

THE

TOP

FIVE5 Jimmie Martin

Union Jack sofas

INSPIREDA great all year round heater, the Matti Walker Max Fan can be adjusted to suit your every temperature need. With a slick threelegged design and bold colour, this is far groovier than its elderbeige-boxed cousins and will look, well, cool in your lounge.

Matti Walker Max Fan Heater

£75 www.redcandy.co.uk

Combining the looks and design ofthe past with the functionality oftoday, the Trim Phone has the balance just right. Sharp lines with classic circular numbers finished offwith touch tone buttons replacingthe time consuming twist-to-dialmechanism. The bold, red colour isbound to make every call, even toyour Mum, feel just that little bitmore important.

Wild & Wolf Trim Phone

£32 www.redcandy.co.uk

Inspired by the African Lodge Life, Scandinaviandesigner Gunilla Allard combines turned-woodwith soft-chrome fittings finished with whiteleather to create a comfortable and visuallypleasing two seater sofa. Simple.

Sahara Wood Sofa

P.O.A www.lammhults.se

LIFESTYLENEW PRODUCTS. CLASSIC INFLUENCE.

Simple and stylish, this flip down clock willmake your desk look that little bit sleeker. With

a satisfying click every time the hypnotic numbers flip, you’ll never miss lunch or work

late by mistake again. Requires just a single D battery.

Retro Flip Down Clock

£18.96 www.chinavasion.com

Danish wizard Troels Seidenfaden presents a three-in-one design classic, combining a side table,bookcase and magazine rack to bring you the Stelton Magzbook. The sleek steel design is around40cm tall, finished with dark grey leather. Perfect,just don’t put the yellow pages put on it.

Stelton Magzbook

£169 www.panik-design.com

Although contemporary in appearance, theoriginal design for this piece of furniture wasapparently first produced in the mid-forties.This eye catching table is made of temperedglass and quality fiberglass, giving the rarecombination of great design, robustness andvalue for money.

Tribeca Coffee Table

£99 www.retrorepublic.co.uk

The good people at John Lewis certainly have delivered with this fine Digital radio. Hiding behindthe sleek metal grill are two powerful 3 inch drivespeakers with Clearsound technology. In the walnutcasing there’s a display screen giving you detailedprogramme information, kitchen timer and even aUSB port through which you will soon be able toadd new features.

John Lewis DAB Radio

£149 www.johnlewis.com

Jimmie Martin’s Andy Dandy chair range was produced in collaboration with photographe

LIFESTYLE

rs’ Christopher Makos and Paul Solberg. See www.jimmiemartin.co.uk for the latest range

The latest offering from the world’s oldestsurviving bicycle-making company (they revolutionised the world of pedal-pushing forever with their bonkers idea of equal-sizedwheels and pneumatic rubber tires in 1885).On the frame that ‘launched a thousand fixies’is a ‘milk and coffee’ finish, which soundsrather like a cappuccino to TRC so we’re keento freewheel straight into the express-o lane.Well, except this is fixed-gear which rotateswith the wheels, so we’ll probably head to thesafety of a velodrome.

Bianchi Pista Via Brera

$799 www.bianchiusa.com

INSPIRED

Timex’s 60s TV advertising slogan ran ‘it takes a licking andkeeps on ticking’ so it seems they were discovering their

feminine side when they launched these wonderfully disposable, Bjorn Borg headband styled, watches in the 80s.

Re-released TRC won’t be wearing one down the construction site any time soon.

Timex 80s Series

£50 www.timex80.com

Just in case you’re not one of the 1 million lomographers outthere LOMO stands for Leningradskoye Optiko Mechanichesck-oye Obyedinenie or Leningrad Optical & Mechanical Enterpriseif you’re not fluent in Russian. LOMO has been around for morethan 80 years and in 1914 they were the largest optical devicemanufacturer for the Russian Army. These cameras are so coolthere’s even a special edition Diana Meg (from the WhiteStripes) range. At TRC we’re really excited by the idea of theJonah Lomu LOMO as he’s really big and...ok you see wherewe’re going with that. $60 www.shop.lomography.com

LOMO Diana Mini 35mm

GADGETSNEW PRODUCTS. CLASSIC INFLUENCE.

Another novelty gadget usingthe humble cassette. It’s a greatdesign, and care has been takento add details such as moveablewheels inside the case. The Huboffers four USB ports, and atunder a tenner, it’s not going tobreak the bank.

Cassette Tape USB Hub

£8.99 www.play.com

The thoroughly modern radio with a tip of the hat tothe wireless of yesteryear, well my word it just suitsus perfectly! Revo’s newest edition to the domino series still has the rubber like finish, smoothrounded edges and joystick based controls, and features DAB digital radio, iPod and iPhone docking,wireless audio streaming and of course FM radio.With remote control and alarm clock, we think it’s a lovely little addition to any room.

Revo Domino D3

£169.95 www.revo.co.uk

The R4 is designed to create a huge, room filling sound from a small cabinet. Combined with astylish, minimalist look that betrays the cutting edge technology and you’re on to an instant

classic. There’s even an i-pod style RotoDial remote so all your R4 and iPod functions can beintuitively controlled from the comfort of your sofa. If only relationships were so simple.

Vita Audio R4

£176 www.vitaaudio.com

This looks like a standard retro styled CD player until you lift the

bonnet! The Roxy will play all yourold vinyl, even your 78s (ask your

Dad), but is hooked up with the latest tech: a CD player, a USB 2.0

you can play tunes from an MP3 orflash memory drive, and also an

i-pod dock. Bryan Ferry would beproud to own one.

Steepletone RoxyRecord & CD Player

£126.99 www.limemarketing.co.uk

Grado GS1000iA family run business for over 50 yearsGrado has 48 patents under their belts sothey’re used to making people sit up andlisten. These handcrafted mahoganyhead-phones are an upgrade on the 2007version hence the i, with changes in theheadphone cord & hardware constructionbut they still deliver the Grado “room” forthe ears to sit in. TRC likes that.

£990 www.gradolabs.com

Ever a stickler for the more novel items, weintroduce to you the Retro Papercraft Speakers. That’s right, get out the make anddo materials and create your own hi-fi, boombox or bookshelf stereo with one ofthese little kits. Each one contains a smallUSB powered speaker that can plug into a pcor laptop, so by following the easy to understand japanese picture instructions youtoo can cut out and assemble your very ownpaper speaker.

Retro Papercraft Speakers

£18 www.japantrendshop.com

GADGETS

Totally bombastic and boombox-tastic. Bang youripod into this and the next thing you know you’ll beable to listen to the Stereophonics in, er, stereophonics. All bought to you by the fabulously namedUSB Fever. Because, at the end of the day, you justcan’t get too excited about USBs. Warning: not tobe confused with UXBs, bang your ipod into one ofthose and you’ll be hearing more than stereo (or notdepending on the severity of your injuries!).

USB Fever Retro Cassette StereoMini Speaker for iPod / iPhone

$31.99 www.usbfever.com

The Olympus E-P1 has always had aretro look, but now you can accentuate that by adding a skinfrom Kindai International.They’recarefully made to fit the dimensionsof the camera exactly, ensuring asnug fit for the mottled pattern skin.The skins are available in threecolours: Green, Grey and Black.

Olympus E-P1 Skins

£12 www.kindai-inc.co.jp

We couldn’t decide if this can really be classed asretro or stylish, but nevertheless it is still damngood. Desktop Henry can do everything his largercounterpart can do, but he may need to be emptiedmore often. Running off two AA batteries, littleHenry is perfect to help sort out those little biscuitmishaps around your desk.

Desktop Henry

£11.99 www.gadgetshop.com

GADGETS

You’ll never be short changed with this beauty. Releasedin 1984, presumably for the mathematics teacher, on thego, it’s half watch and calculator or ‘The Walculator’ asTRC has rather snazzily renamed it. The UC2000 was thefirst of its kind and launched on the back of the first TVwatch, released in 1983. Seiko is traditionally an Olympicsponsor, so TRC is pushing for Usain Bolt to wear theUC2000 in the 100 metres final, as it will give him something to do, waiting for the opposition to finish.P.I.R.O. £200 where available

Seiko UC-2000

Nixon Fluro Rubber Player SeriesNixon released this mystery-coloured watchon October 15, with the colour reflecting the

charity, Boarding For Breast Cancer, proceeds of sales will go to. There have beentwo previous mystery colours, Orange Fluro

(August) and Green Fluro (Sept), with aNovember one still to be released (we don’tknow the colour...it’s a mystery). A limited

range and they’re being snaffled up. $170 www.nixonnow.com

Sega Saturn ZippoZippo conjures up images of campfires,

spittoons and cowboys hunched over non-filter rollies, as dust storms sweep

around their chaps. Now Zippo has teamedwith Sega the image is set of the anarchic

gamer, computer looming large on the horizon, protecting his Marlboro Light from

the fire breathing wind from his, er, open balcony door! O.K. it needs a bit of work, butnow even the meekest of gamers can whistle

The Good, The Bad and The Ugly as theylight up and that’s a good thing!

£70 www.banpresto.com

INSPIRED

The 1954 SL Gullwing was the ultimate achievement of style

combined with substance. Sex onlegs (o.k. wheels) and it went likethe clappers. What’s not to like.

The 2010 version is shaping up tobe equally impressive with

acceleration of 0-62 mph in 3.8seconds and a top speed of

317kph. If you leave the doorsopen on this number you’re goingto need some firm setting hair-gel!

With paint colours including anAlubeam silver, which “shines likeliquid metal”, you’ll be more Termi-nator than Kindergarten Cop when

you put your foot to the floor onthis fantastic car.For more detail:

www.mercedes-benz.motortrak.com/sls-

amg.php

2010 Mercedes SLS AMG Gullwing

MOTORINGNEW PRODUCTS. CLASSIC INFLUENCE.

Fiat 695 AbarthTributo Ferrari

This car has a story linemost soaps would be happywith. Ferrari sleeps withAbarth all under the watchfuleye of its parent companyFiat and the 695 is born onlyto be whisked away by Ferrari owners when theyfeel like a bit on the side. Allthis, as the cute 500 lookson, wondering why theAbarth was given a 1.4 litreturbo beef-up in the firstplace. TRC doesn’t care,we’d quite happily go ‘upwest’ with the 695.www.fiat.com

MOTORING

Honda ConceptEV-N

If Makka Pakka from In TheNight Garden was a car thenthis shorter, but far cuter version of the late 60s N600is it. Honda’s electric concept car has a solar powered roof which helpspower the battery, swappableseat fabrics and an UX-3super gyroscopic robot unicy-cle in the passenger door,which looks like a futuristicSegway and means if you for-get your shoes you won’t getyour feet wet when you pop into the local supermarket.www.honda.com

T-SHIRTS

REPRESENTING THE UK:DESIGNS FROMBALCONY SHIRTS

1.Cornish Pasty2. Scunthorpe3. Cricket - I Love It 4. Goes Up To 11 5. Sexual Ealing6. Middlesbrough

1

2

3

4

5

6

www.balconyshirts.co.uk

UK VS USA

REPRESENTINGTHE US:DESIGNS FROMTHREADLESS:

1. Jurassircus 2. Splatter in D

Minor3. Pandamonium4. Fencing5. I’m Like A Bird6. Self Portrait

1

2

3 4

56

www.threadless.com

ULTIMATE CONVICTION

From Cool Hand Luke to The Birdman of Alcatraz therehas always been a rebellious coolness to doing bird.But describing a prisoner as a ‘fashion icon’ seems to

be stretching things. Yet hanging from the walls of Cinch(Levi’s London concept store) you’ll find striped black andwhite t-shirts, washed jeans and sack coats nestled betweenmirrors etched with mug-shot height measurements, asparse looking prison bunk, and torn out images of 1950spin-up girls.

It’s all part of the latest Levi’s Vintage Clothing collection,Inside / Out, which is themed around the life of the prisoner.“This vintage range is very much inspired by 30s to 50sAmerican prison wear – Shawshank Redemption was a biginfluence,” says Daniel Wade, shop manager of Cinch. Formany years, denim was standard issue for institutional life,with overalls, white vests and t-shirts, sack coats andchambray shirts all finding their way inside. As a leaflet inthe store puts it: ‘The Inside / Out collection draws on theexperiences, history and struggles of serving time, while

Cinch’s vintage range, Inside / Out, celebrates30s to 50s American prison wear. Niki Corfieldunlocks staff’s passion at Levi’s concept store

keeping one eye on the freedom beyondthe walls.’

The garments in the Inside / Outcollection are all recreations of originalLevi’s clothing from the era, with thesubtle addition of some graphic printsand design as part of the convicts’theme. Launched in 1996, the Levi’sVintage Clothing Collection (LVC)features reproductions of key items inthe Levi’s archive from 1873 to the1980s, created with minute attention toauthentic period detail and design. It’sfaithful to the letter – a tab on one pair of1930s reproduction jeans features anumber mark showingthey were part of agovernment initiative touse local suppliers,while the t-shirts allhave recreations oforiginal label designsstitched inside them.

Some items inthe collection areconstants, such asthe ‘raw denim’ range of jeans, (featuringaround 15 reproduction jeans rangingfrom 1873 to 1983), along withreproduction white t-shirts from the1920s to the 1980s, and denim jackets.Every season Levi’s designers alsocreate a themed range – like Inside /Out – inspired by a particular era in history, or time of cultural shift. Previousseasons before this have been inspiredby lumberjacks, rodeos, and the 1930sUS Depression era (“That one was verybleak,” says Wade, “all patches andeverything looking stitched together”).

There’s certainly a wealth of historyand heritage for the Levi’s designers todraw from. Founded in San Francisco in1853 by Bavarian immigrant LeviStrauss, the company originally sold

wholesale dry goods to small generalstores in the American west. In 1872, atailor named Jacob Davis approachedLevi’s with the idea of taking out a patenttogether on the process of riveting thepocket corners on men’s trousers. Thepatent was granted on 20th May 1873,and Levi Strauss & Co began producingdenim waist overalls. Although Levi’sdidn’t invent the cut or fit of the overalls,the riveting of the traditional trouserswas an entirely new invention, and theoriginal blue jeans were born – though itwould be nearly another 70 years beforethey would be known by that name.

“They weren’tcalled jeans at the time,they were called waist-overalls and they usedto be worn specificallyas workwear. Guyswould wear them on topof their own clothes, sothey’re quite a loosefitting jean,” explainsWade of the 1873

reproduction pair. It wasn’t until the1920s that Levi’s introduced belt loops tothe design, and only in the 1940s and50s that they started becoming a fashionpiece rather than a practical workweargarment. Although there is some disputeover when and where the term ‘jeans’actually originated, what is known is thatby 1960, the word ‘jeans’ had replaced‘overalls’ on all advertising andpackaging of the Levi’s product.

Nowadays, jeans have becomearguably the most ubiquitous garmentsof the modern era, and Levi’s is one ofthe world’s largest clothing brands, withsales in more than 110 countries, and anincomparable global presence in thejeans market. Although the companybriefly experimented in the 1970s with

One of Cinch’s regularcustomers leaves his

jeans ‘raw’ for sixmonths, then jumps inthe sea to shrink the

jeans to fit and let thesalt treat the denim.

employee ownership and a public stocklisting, it is still owned and controlled bydescendants and relatives of LeviStrauss, and remains firmly connected toits heritage.

This year marks the 10th anniversaryof Cinch, which started life as Levi’spremium boutique store. Along with theLVC collection, it also stocks Levi’scollaboration ranges – the current one isOriginal Fake, with graffiti artist Kaws,while previous seasons have featuredDamien Hirst and Henry Holland. Butvintage is the main collection in the store,and part of what Cinch has becomeknown for. Although LVC is availableonline, and you canpick up key items insome high-endboutiques, Cinch isthe only place in theworld that stocks thefull collection. It getsfitted out seasonallyto match the vintageranges, and even thename Cinch referencesthe brand’s uniqueheritage – it’s a claspused to tighten jeans when they were still wornas overalls in the 1800s.

“Vintage is our bread and butter,” saysWade, “it’s really grown – the collectionhas expanded and it’s becoming morepopular. The explosion in vintage and thedemand for it at the moment has definitelyhelped – over the last couple of yearswe’ve definitely seen a big increase inawareness and in footfall to the shop.”

So why does Wade think vintage hastaken off in such a big way? “It’s just thiswhole retro thing that everyone has reallyjumped onto. I think vintage has

individuality – you can find something alittle bit different that no one else has got.The high street is saturated with itemsthat are exactly the same. This is wheresomeone can pick up something a little bitmore individual.”

The raw denim range of jeans are thestore’s bestsellers, and Wade believespart of their appeal is the fact that they area kind of a “blank canvas” for customersto stamp their individuality onto. Rawdenim is pure cotton that’s not yet beenwashed, unlike that used in most modernjeans, which has already been treated,shrunk and faded. “It means the way youwear them and decide to wash them

makes them completely individual – after six months ofwear they mould to your shape,you get your own creases, yourown fades, and they becomeyour own jean, rather than onethat’s been produced for you,”explains Wade.

The people who visit theshop are often true denimenthusiasts, who relish thispotential for individuality, alongwith the collection’s authenticity.

These denim connoisseurs go to greatlengths to get their vintage pieces just theway they want them. One of Cinch’sregular customers leaves his jeans ‘raw’for six months, then jumps in the sea toshrink the jeans to fit and let the salt treatthe denim. Others are known forreligiously handwashing theirs, or leavingthem in the fridge wrapped in plastic bagsto achieve a certain colour effect. AsWade says: “We get customers who areso passionate about the brand, to thepoint where they’ll be as passionate aboutdenim as some guys are about football or

The explosion invintage and the demand for it at

the momentmeans we’ve seena big increase in awareness and

footfall in the shop

music. As staff, you have to know whatyou’re talking about otherwise you’ll getcaught out. Customers really know theirstuff, so we need to be passionate about theproducts, and it needs to be genuine.”

All of Cinch’s staff members are giventraining on the brand and its history, and allpossess a genuine interest in the LVCcollection. Simon Jeal, Cinch’s assistantmanager, and a vintage enthusiast, believesthe heritage of the range exerts a specialdraw. “Once people get interested in onesort of style of jean that they like, they’ll startlooking at other eras, and get hooked,” heexplains. “Quite a few customers are lookingat the longevity of buying vintage as well – we get guys who bought jeans in heremaybe 5 years ago, still wearing them, stillloving them. You’re investing in a productthat will actually last.”

Jeal and Wade’s references to Cinch’scustomers as ‘guys’ are deliberate. Of theroughly 30 or so pieces in the LVC range,only 9 are women’s clothing. Levi’swomenswear spans a much shorter heritagethan the men’s range, having only originatedaround 75 years ago, and as a result themajority of the visitors to the shop are male.

Cinch’s customer base is extremely loyaland long-standing, having grown mostlythrough word of mouth andrecommendation. “There’s not a lot ofadvertising, we’re not on posters aroundLondon, we don’t have our own website,”says Wade. “It keeps LVC exclusive andI think that’s the important thing about it. If itwas too readily available then I think peoplewould lose interest in it. We’ve been here 10years so we’ve built up a good customerbase, but it’s still a bit underground.”

The nature of the clothing itself adds tothis esoteric feel; many of the items are onlysubtly different to modern day designs, andit can take a trained eye to spot the historyinherent in the garments. “I guess onlypeople that have an interest in premiumfashion would know [that they’re vintagereproductions],” says Jeal. Perhaps morethan anything, it is this sense ofunderground exclusivity that lies at the heartof LVC’s appeal: while not exactly a secret,these products are only for those truly in theknow.

Cinch, 5 Newburgh Street, London,W1F 7RB Tel: 020 7287 4941

LACED WITH ROConverse started life as rubber galoshes, then diversified into basketball shoes. Now their sneakers wear the images of guitar bands. John Hartley celebrates an historic case of sock and roll

Over 60% of Americans haveowned at least one pair of All-Stars and Converse’s

signature design is available in everycolour and pattern imaginable. There’seven an option to ‘create your own’ ontheir website and now you can also wearAC/DC and Pink Floyd flavoured sneakers round the high streets. Sowhere did it all go right for the Nikeowned brand?

Marquis Mills Converse started TheConverse Rubber Corporation in 1908,producing work related rubber shoesand galoshes. At first this was done on a seasonal basis, but when the company realised it would be more efficient to employ their workforce allyear round, they ventured into manufac-

turing athletic footwear, and investedtheir efforts into shoes for the emergingsport of basketball. The first version ofthe All-Star sneaker was made in 1917, in natural brown with black trim, andthree years later became America’s firstmass produced basketball shoe.

This year holds a double anniversaryfor the Converse brand. The 60th anniversary of one of the world’s mostpopular and iconic shoes - the classicblack and white Converse ‘Chuck Taylor’All-Star, and 40 years since the death ofits namesake.

Charles Hollis Taylor, wore All-Starsas a high school basketball player, andin 1921 went to the Converse sales office in Chicago in search of a job. Overthe next few decades he was to become

OCK

one of the most influential men in the company. Hisoutstanding salesmanship and his successful promoting of the shoes, along with input on the designearned him a place in history when in 1932 his namewas branded on the shoes. The ‘Chuck Taylor’ All-Starsneaker was born.

Chuck went on to help design the optical-white high-topmodel for the 1936 Olympics, with its patriotic red and blue trim,becoming extremely popular among young Americans. With theadvent of war, the expected lull in sales never eventuated, andthe white high-top ‘Chucks’ became the ‘official’ sneaker of theUS Armed Forces. The company also provided footwear, apparel, boots for pilots and army servicemen, parkas, and rubber protective suits and ponchos.

After the War ended, Converse launched theirmost iconic sneaker yet, the classic black and whiteAll-Star. With the recent formation of the professionalNBA, these became the must have for any player,their look becoming part of the team.

By 1957 Converse had 80% share of the entiresneaker industry, and Chuck was named ‘Ambas-sador to Basketball’ due to his tireless efforts. Despitethe millions of pairs of Chuck Taylor branded shoessold, he was by no means rich from it. Chuck neverhad commission from the shoes he sold, for years

driving his white Cadillac across the countrystaying in motels, although it’s said he wasn’t shy about using the company’s expense account.

Chuck Taylor died of a heart attack theday before his 68th birthday on June 23rd1969 and along with the passing of their figurehead, came the gradual slip of Converse’s grip on the industry. New rivalssuch as Nike grew in size and popularity,and despite Converse’s best efforts, basketball teams switched to other brands.

The sneaker had an unexpected rebirthin the 70s, with the shoe becoming popularwith adults who wanted it for comfort and affordability as opposed to sporting performance. The company responded bylaunching the old classics in a variety ofcolours and designs. Since then it has beena favourite among musicians and the shoeof the counter culture.

The management and ownership of thecompany changed several times in the1980s and 1990s, and the Converse brandfell into financial difficulty. In 2001 they filed

for bankruptcy in 2001, closing all NorthAmerican manufacturing outlets and relocating to Asia. The company survivedand was eventually bought by long timerival Nike.

The Chuck Taylor branded sneaker stillthrives and is as popular as ever. One of themost iconic and stylish sneakers is still withus and the memory of its founder lives on.

Converse Rock Collection(from top right)

Metallica: PusheadAC/DC: Lock up your daughtersPink Floyd: AnimalsPink Floyd: Wish you were here (out)Pink Floyd: Wish you were here (instep)The Who: PackAC/DC: Back in blackMetallica: Flaming SkullOzzy: DoodlesMetallica: Ride the lightningPink Floyd: Dark side of the moonOzzy: Straight jacketThe Who: Union Jack

The Mellotron seems to have a life of itsown. Having started out as an instrumentfor your Aunt Mabel to play at fifties

cocktail parties it ended up being used by amultitude of bands including The Beatles, TheMoody Blues and more recently Oasis. For theinstrument to have taken on a life far removedfrom the inventor’s original intention issynonymous with the life it has lead off thestage as well.

Harry Chamberlin invented The Mellotronback in the mid forties. Harry liked playinghis home organ, but wanted to put thesound of an orchestra behind it. So Harrydecided to adapt and essentially invent a new instrument to fill his needs. Byrecording single notes played by realinstruments onto tape loops, and adaptinghis keyboard to trigger the tapes, theChamberlin was born. Harry continued todevelop the idea and in 1960 he

manufactured and sold Chamberlins fromhis shop in California. He employed BillFransen as a salesman for the Chamberlin.Bill was good at his job, but there wereproblems. Harry couldn't keep up with theorders and the scrolling mechanism keptchanging the sounds so the completedorders had a 40% chance of failure.

Bill saw the genius in Harry's idea, butfelt the instrument could be better made. Hetook two Chamberlins across to England,and showed it to the Bradley brothers ofBradmatic Ltd in Birmingham. The brotherswere excited by the idea of the instrument,and when Bill asked if they couldmanufacture them, they agreed believingthe idea to be Bill’s.

A year later in 1966, Harry caught upwith Bill and you can probably imagine, hewasn't a happy man. Harry finally agreed tosell the technology to the Bradley brothers

MELLODRAMAWhen Harry Chamberlin invented the Mellotronhis instrument unexpectedly pioneered sampling and became the backing sound to prog rock. He also hadn’t bargained on the company’s salesman pitching the instrument as his own creation. Graeme Coop puts his finger on the discord

Below: The M4000 Mellotron the most recent model released in2007. Bottom Left: Bill Fransen in 1963 in the first of 3

Mellotron factories. Top Left: Harry Chamberlin with his prototype 3/8ths inch tape based instrument from the 1950s

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Dianna Dilworth (right) recently made Mellodrama,

a documentary on the Mellotron’s troubled history.

Coops spoke to her about whythe instrument deserves itsplace in music’s hall of fame

for $30,000, and went back home tocontinue his own path of development,resulting in the 1970's Chamberlin Mseries.The Bradley brothers changed theircompany name to Streetly Electronics andstarted to mass produce Mellotrons.

A young lad Mike Pinder (below), startedto work for them, getting a job at the end ofthe line, checking the instrument for anyfaults before it was sent to the customer. Hesoon fell in love with the sound and LeslieBradley helped him purchase a MellotronMKII, which Mike hoped would make a greataddition to his band, The Moody Blues. Theyreleased their hit single "Love and Beauty",and shortly afterwards the Beatles released"Strawberry Fields Forever". The future of

the Mellotron was cemented forever in history. The Mellotron is still used today bythe likes of Radiohead and Sigor Ros, butnot to the degree it was in the 70s.

In comparison to its modern day counterparts, it is heavy and unreliable,though Streetly Electronics updated theM400 and released the M4000 in 2007. Thedelicate tape loops used to create the soundmake touring with the instrument difficult. So it’s left to enthusiasts to keep thename and sound going as they cherish andlove them for their quirkiness and unreliability. In the same way some peopleare fanatical about classic cars, Mellotronlovers are proud to own or even use the instrument.

Where did your interest in the Mellotroncome from and what inspired you tomake a documentary about it?I grew up on the music that features Mellotrons, but I really learned what a Mellotron was in the mid 90s, when myfriend Mattias Olsson, a Swedish producer,showed me his collection and taught meabout the mechanics of them. I was amazedby the tapes. I love the music and I am fascinated by the technology and the somewhat accidental influence that HarryChamberlin has had on the history of sampling. I am intrigued at how this relatively rare and archaic instrument was a

forerunner to many modern ideas in musicproduction. Harry Chamberlin was definitelynot the only person thinking about using a

King Crimson’s Epitaph certainly wouldn’t have beenon Harry’s cocktail party playlist

keyboard to emulate the sounds of other instruments, but he was early with this idea.I also love that the technology was broughtto the marketplace with one intention, to bea home entertainment attraction ala 1950’scocktail parties, but was actually adopted byrock musicians who used it in weird andcreepy ways. King Crimson’s “Epitaph”wasn’t exactly what Harry was hoping for,and it certainly wouldn’t have been onHarry’s cocktail party playlist. This really fascinates me, the collision of worlds.The Mellotron seems to be one ofmusic’s “happy accidents”, what wasHarry Chamberlin trying to create whenhe came up with the idea?Harry Chamberlin was an organ player andhe developed the Chamberlin to have an orchestra accompaniment to go along withhis keyboard playing. He came up with theRhythmmate, a very early drum machine,and the Chamberlin keyboards, which incorporated orchestral sounds into a keyboard. In the early 50s when he wasdoing all of this stuff, I don’t think he everimagined that it would become the definingsound of progressive rock.Where did the original samples used onthe Mellotron tapes come from?The Chamberlin sounds were recordings ofthe Lawrence Welk Orchestra that Harrymade. Harry was very meticulous about thesound and he spent a lot of time making sure he got the notes right. He alsoused really great technology and so theserecordings have an excellent fidelity, to thisday. Harry’s tapes were used on the earlyMellotrons, though in the 60s Mellotronicsrecorded their own tapes in IBC Studios.Brian Carroll and Don Lawson, retired studio musicians, worked on the recordingsand recount the experience of recording thetapes in the film. The Mellotron tapes don’tsound as good as the Chamberlin tapes, because the engineers that worked on therecordings did not put as much

effort in. Apparently it was a very mechanical and non-musical process. Stillthat’s what gives the Mellotron its weirdsound, which is of course, so cherished.What do you think made the Mellotron sopopular, despite only a few thousandbeing made?It has a very unique and haunting sound andit was used by great musicians like The Beatles, The Moody Blues, King Crimson,Led Zeppelin, Genesis and these guysmade the sound way more popular than theinstrument ever was. It lives on today, because bands like Radiohead, Sigur Rosas well as producers like Jon Brion aredoing their own things with it.Do you think the unreliable reputation ofthe instrument has given it another edgeor personality, particularly because it needs to be looked after andrepaired so often?I think the unreliability is what killed the Mellotron in the late 70s, but from today’spoint of view, its quirky attributes are seenas kind of sweet. I wouldn’t say that anyone really likes it when they break down,but I think people appreciate the quirks andtry to work it into their playing. Jon Brion toldme that his Chamberlin M1 has apersonality of its own and every time heplays it, it’s different. One day the tape sticks on the C key, another day it’s the B,and some days its fine. I think he likes thefinicky experience of it and plays along to it accordingly.You obviously have a fondness of the Mellotron, how do you view some of themore recent electronic or virtual equivalents?This is a great debate among Mellotronusers. Some musicians will tell you thatthey’d never use a sample, because it is allabout the machining, the interface and thecharacteristics of the particular Mellotronyou are playing. This is true. So much of theMellotron sound comes from the fact the

tape can be manipulated by the pitch bendand the fact the tape zips back to the topafter the 8-second loop is played, plus thewhirring of the motor has its own charminglywarm sound. I sit somewhere in the middle.I can understand the desire to use the realthing, but I love them for their sound and if ayoung band can experiment and do interesting new things with these sampledMellotron sounds, then I’m all for it.During the filming for the documentaryyou interviewed many greats of themusic world, who or what was the highlight for you personally?Everyone in the film was delightful to meetand speak with. Some highlights for me include speaking with Rick Nielsen, who is areal character and would stop mid-interviewto make jingles for my film. Brian Wilsonwas really cool as well. It was incredible tobring a Mellotron to his house, since he hadn’t seen one in 30 years. I think the mostamazing moment though was when I wentto interview Fabio Frizzi, an Italian sound-track composer who did some of myfavourite horror film scores in the 1970s. Wedid his interview on the rooftop of a govern-ment building in the centre of Rome. It was

a beautiful location overlooking the city. Butwhen we showed up to film, there was a marathon going on and we couldn’t crossthe street. It was a circus of cars, runnersand people trying to get through yelling atthe cops. Once we got there we had to carrythis big old Mellotron through a crowded Italian ruin where there were tourists andweddings going on. When we got it up it wasreally hot, so we worked quickly to makesure that the ‘tron didn’t melt! But it was really a fantastic day. I felt like I was living aFellini film!What are your plans for the future?Right now I’m working with the distributor onthe DVD release for the film. I’ve also gotplans in the works for a new documentaryfilm about Neon lighting.

Mellodrama is set to be released on DVD thiswinter.

For more information visitwww.bazillionpoints.com/mellodrama

or www.myspace.com/mellotrondocumentary

Mellodrama images courtesy of Dianna Dilworth

Unfinished Symphony: Composer John Brion (left) speaks about his love for the instrument, and The Beach Boys’ frontman Brian Wilson plays a Mellotron for the first time in thirty years

When the world of 3D first appeared,audiences were amazed, usuallyentertained but often left the

comfort of their cinema chair with a feelingof nausea. In these early days, two imageswere projected on to the screen by placingtwo projectors next to each other, andplaying the reels simultaneously. Thescreen showed a double image, theaudience given specialglasses that block one imagefrom each eye. This imitatedhow your eyes view objectsnormally, with slightlydifferentiating views, creatingdepth. This caused problemshowever, because if either ofthe reels paused fractionally

or had to be repaired, the images, i.e. whatthe cinema goer was watching, went out ofsync, giving the audience headaches andleft them feeling sick.

Despite this, 3D was still a popularchoice among movie goers, and gavecinema the edge it needed to get the publicaway from their television sets. VincentPrice became known as the “King of 3D”

after he became the actorto star in the most 3Dfeatures, most notably forhis role in the 1953 classicHouse Of Wax.

After the initialexcitement of 3D, audiencessoon got tired of thisgimmicky approach to

Since the golden era of 3D in 52 there has been three

revivals. So why have audiences been so fickle in their

appreciation of the format? Don Jagger puts on his glasses

to see if the latest incarnation will finally be a spectacle

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DIMENSION

movie making, preferring instead to watchfilms with more focused plots and strongerstory telling. 3D’s popularity waned for thenext few years, with a few exceptionsincluding 1961 hit “The Mask”, which useda combination of 2D and 3D filming toenhance the dreamlike sequences whenthe mask was worn.

The technology improved during thistime, with films now able to be shown usingjust one projector, increasing reliability.Thebiggest revival of the format came in the80s, with a huge influx of films being shownin 3D. During this new found craze manyclassics were re-issued such as “House ofWax” and “Dial M for Murder”.

As audiences fully embraced the 3Dmovie once again, many directors createdfilms geared towards 3D releasing suchclassics as “Jaws 3D”, “Amityville 3D” and“Friday the 13th Part III”. We now findourselves on the brink of the third 3Drevival, where the technology has beentightened, the content no longer restrictedto live action. With CGI films proving a

popular format in 2D since the earlynineties, recent 3D versions of thesesmooth animated films is sure to continue .

The major studios are also encouraging3D releases as the dual image on thescreen effectively cuts out piracy. It isestimated that around ninety percent ofpirated movies are from people takingvideo cameras into cinemas, and thisformat makes the film almost unwatchablewhen recorded in this way.

Monsters Vs Aliens had the biggestopening of the year with $58m (£40m), and3D versions of films continue to take morethan 2D counterparts.There are also plansto re-release Disney’s nineties classics“Toy Story” and “Toy Story 2” in 3D format,just in time for the third installment of theseries, as well as a 3D re-working of romantically-laced disaster flick “Titanic”.

But with Steven Spielberg announcingin 2005 he was patenting a 3D cinema system without the need for glasses, TRCis still concerned our Guccis (see belowright) will be confiscated at the door.

The Cinemizer Plus, made by Carl Zeiss, is the don of 3D glasses.They may look like a cross between swimming goggles and sunglasses, but don’t let that mild mannered exterior fool you, thesespecs enable you to watch movies on a virtual TV screen, get this, with a 45” diagonal at a distanceof 2 metres. With built in earphones, the glasses let you watch any movie, anywhere (although it’sprobably not advisable, or legal, to be watching The Godfather as you hit the fast lane of the M1).The Cinemizer Plus glasses let you watch3D movies, play 3D games, can be used toview movies from your iPod, and even takesinto consideration those with glasses alreadywith The Plus adjustable to the needs of a prescription of +3.5 to 0.5.www.zeiss.com

Photos courtesy of Carl Zeiss

CINEMA PARADISO

3D movies worth a look…

House Of Wax (1953)Vincent Price stars in this gritty horror as a sculptor in a wax works museum who is left to perishin a fire started by his partner to claim insurance money. Many years after the fire, he reappears toopen his own museum featuring wax works of murder and horror - with some looking a bit too realistic.

It Came From Outer Space (1953)A classic tale of fifties paranoia, after seeing a meteor crash out in the desert, a young man investigates and witnesses the gruesome truth of what landed before it is covered by a landslide.The townsfolk don’t believe him, until strange things start to occur.

Jaws 3D (1983)The third installment of the series was by no means hailed as the greatest, but signified thebiggest revival of 3D, as Dennis Quaid finds himself on the hunt for a troublesome shark inFlorida’s Sea World.

Polar Express (2004)Animated magical Christmas warmer featuring some of the most breathtakingly stunning scenery.Tom Hanks does a great job voicing five characters in the film, which was received with criticalacclaim.

While sitting in a darkened room, with strangers looking at the back of our heads, we all need to look our best.So it comes as no surprise, in this fashion conscious world,that the cardboard framed red and white glasses have givenway to a much more sophisticated looking, aviator style, blacklensed pair of spectacles. As if this wasn’t enough, Varietymagazine published unconfirmed reports that top flight designer labels such as Gucci are planning to make designer3D glasses available in time for the release of JamesCameron’s epic 3D blockbuster “Avatar” in December.

YOU’VE BEEN FRAMED

Nunchucks at the ready coz Black Dynamite has just released in the States and is already looking like a cult classic. With hot reviews and a plot where ‘The Man’ murders his brother,pumps heroin into local orphanages and floods the ghetto with adulterated malt liquor, it cando no wrong in TRC’s eyes. The soundtrack’s mighty fine as well.www.blackdynamitemovie.com

BLACK IN THE DAY

My ex-husband is a musician andhis first band back in the late 60swas Barbed Wire Soup but despite

having a reasonable following they couldn’tsecure a recording contract. When theysplit the remaining members put an advertin the New Musical Express for a bassplayer and a keyboard player.

Chris Cross (later-Ultravox) respondedto the advert, signed up, moved from London to the bright lights of BairstowStreet, Preston, and a new incarnation,Ritzi, was born. He and the band spent agreat deal of time in my house. PeteHughes (ex Stoned Roses), Michael ‘Caz’Carrol, Nigel Davenport Sawyer, my exand Chris played guitars, piano and sangall night long. We had a mad time, definitely a case of Too Much Fandango,Tequila And Tango (Ritzi’s biggest hit. Itdidn’t chart in the UK, but was No1 onMike Reid’s Breakfast Show on Radio Oneand topped the charts in Australia!) and I remember spending a lot of time in thekitchen cooking to abate the munchies following the intake of various substances.I usually cooked omelettes and greensalad, but if I had had a really productivesession, there would be home made pizzas in the freezer.

Ritzi had signed to Warners in 1973and Too Much Fandango released in 1974but after that things changed; Nigel wasthe first to go on to pastures new and now

writes music for film and television as wellas being a much sought after sessionplayer. Chris left to join Ultravox after seeing an advertisement in the NME whileMidge Ure had just replaced John Foxx (a Lancashire lad, who had left Ultravox topursue a solo career).

One evening, don’t ask me the date,my ex, Pete Hughes and Chris Cross accompanied by Midge Ure came back foranother big night. Midge was a quiet unassuming guy, very polite and courteousbut not a great conversationalist. During anight of various substances and generalmayhem, Chris, started tinkering away onthe piano and the famous riff featured inVienna (the video features a debutantegracefully descending down a sweepingstaircase, in time, with the music) began toecho through the house and into thekitchen where I was warming up the frozenpizzas. Mushroom with tinned pineapple ifmemory serves me.

“The feeling has gone only you and I.

It means nothing to

me. This means

nothing to me.

Ooooooh. Vienna.”

Well it meanssomething to me.And the pizza wasdamn nice as well!

Purple Gez remembers nights of mayhem with Midge Ure and Chris Cross fromUltravox. But was her cooking really the inspiration for Vienna?

BACK IN THE DAY

Michael Fish, MBE, described by TheTimes as a ‘national treasure’, willalways be remembered as the BBC

weather presenter at the time of the ‘GreatStorm of 1987’. In the early hours of October 16, winds of up to 122mph torethrough the South Coast killing 18 peopleand uprooting 15 million trees.

For 22 years Michael, a meteorolo-gist employed by the Met Office, hastried to explain that he wasn’t on dutyat the time of the storm (not a hurricane he points out). Don’t worryMichael, TRC believes you!

Michael was born and raised inEastbourne, East Sussex. He has

co-written a book about extremeweather events called ‘Storm Force:Britain’s wildest weather’ and appeared in a nationwide tour of ‘ThePlay What I Wrote’.

He is also famous for his collectionof ‘Fish’ motif ties (he has over 100)and has received the title of ‘Tie manof the year’ on three occasions.Michael was also named ‘worstdressed’ and ‘best dressed’ man on television, in the same year.

Now semi-retired, Michael presentsa weekly forecast for Netweather.tvand is a familiar face at climate changeevents. Interview by Mel Coley

What is your favourite song?I suppose it would have to be the oneabout me (John Kettley is a Weatherman...and so

is Michael Fish by ATribe Of Toffs).What is yourfavourite film?I don’t go to watchfilms much actually, Ihaven’t been for donkey’s years. Thelast film I watched was‘Borat’. I enjoy thattype of ‘schoolboy’ humour.Who is yourfavourite actor?I lust after Jane Asher (above).What is your favourite TV show?The weather, of course. I also like documentaries and watch BBC

natural history programmes.What is your favourite meal?I don’t care, but it has to be spicy!

Do you collect anything?Goss china (facing page). Itwas extremely popular between the wars. My Grandfather had a shop inEastbourne where he used tosell the china marked with thefamily name. I have a collection of about a hundred pieces.Who was your first girlfriend?I still remember her. In factwe are still in touch but I won’t tell you her name. We

are still friends – very close friends.What was your first car?It was a mini. The registration was 739BGY and I called it ‘the buggy’.

RETROSPECTIVE

Do you have a 20th century hero or idol?Possibly Winston Churchill – who draggedus through and out of the war.What was your first job?My first job was at the Met office. I earned£26 a month but it cost me £29 a month to

travel there by train.Who or what hasbeen the biggest influence on yourlife?My physics masterwho made sure I gotgood grades; and thegreat storm of 1953which triggered my interest in the weather

and the elements.If you hadn’t become a meteorologist

which career wouldyou have most likelyfollowed?I wanted to join the airforce and become apilot.What is your proudest achievement?I suppose getting an MBE from the Queen,although I think it should have been aknighthood.Have you ever‘splashed’ the cashon something big?Yes. I bought myMazda RX8 with myretirement payout.What is the onething you want todo before you die?Yes there is, I want to get my pilot’s licence.

MICHAEL FISH

Feeling under the weather? Then cheer yourself up with aMichael Fish ‘forecast’ coffeemug and fridge magnets available from his officialwebsite: www.michael-fish.com

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Contact The Retro Collective: info@theretrocollective.com