The rediscovery of taste The winegrowers and wine cellars ... · The rediscovery of taste The...
Transcript of The rediscovery of taste The winegrowers and wine cellars ... · The rediscovery of taste The...
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The TerradeifortiThis valley was modelled by the glaciers in the
Quaternary Age and hollowed out by the Adige River.It stretches southwards from Chiusa di Ceraino andopens up northwards between the Monte Baldo andthe Lessinia to reach the Trentino region.
It comprises the municipalities of Rivoli Veronese,Brentino Belluno, Dolcè and Avio that are all linked bythe Adige River and the rows of vines.
Welcome to the Terradeiforti!
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Monte Fort
The vineyards of the Terra dei Forti between the Monte Baldo and the Adige River
Why Terradeiforti?Right from the Roman period, the Adige Valley
has always been a crucial communication linebetween the Mediterranean and the alpine areas.The many castles and forts dotted along the AdigeRiver are reminders of the area’s historical eventsthroughout the centuries. Although the area canbe considered as a link between the Veronese andTrentino cultures, the denomination of “Terra deiForti” results from the determination of theProtection Consortium to provide the local winesand territory with a clear identity.
Forts as a tradition
Wohlgemuth Fort in Rivoli
San Marco Fort Monte Fort
Tagliata Incanal Ceraino Fort
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A land full of emotionsIf globalization scares you to death and you hate
the standardization of tastes, you must come to theTerra dei Forti and discover its wines. Some uniquewines are produced in this area rich in nature, histo-ry and tradition. They are precious wines that willnever become part of the mass market: this is wide-ly renowned among the viticulturists of the Terra deiForti and they have thus always paid particular atten-tion to quality, still using and improving traditionalmethods. The Terra dei Forti is a land full of emo-tions: come and visit its castles, forts and ancientvillas. Let yourself become enchanted by the land-scape, the unique views and by the history of thesmall villages.
Come and rediscover the taste
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The Adige River near Chiusa di Ceraino
The old dishes: stewed venison with polenta
Turrets and bell towers The forts, the Sabbionara castle,
the villas and noble residence, theparish churches, the Lessinia Park -that preserves the natural beautiesand traditions of the Cimbrian peo-ple, the Madonna della Coronasanctuary: these are signs of thepast and present of the Terra deiForti. The slopes overlooking thevalley are dotted with citadels, cas-tles and forts following a pathwhere the sacred and profane aremixed together.The Adige Valley wascrossed by armies, pilgrims going to Rome, invaders, princes and bishops, artists,smugglers, travellers and wanderers of all ages. Frederick Barbarossa (Redbeard),King Autari and Teodolinda, Dante, Napoleon and Mozart passed through here.
A history that leaves its mark...
Sabbionara Castle Castellum Ava
The small church of Sant’Andrea in Ossenigo surrounded by vineyards.
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The fort of RivoliThe fort was built between 1849 and 1852 and was a men-acing guardian of the crucial communication route betweenItaly and the Austro-Hungarian Empire.At present, it hosts amuseum of the Great War and is a symbol of the area below:the Terra dei Forti.
Castellum Ava This striking castle that overlooks the Adige Valley is enclosedin an irregular quadrilateral that was wisely fortified during thecenturies. It consists of various buildings built throughout thecenturies starting from 1053: the keep, the Torre Picadora andthe guardhouse with the wonderful profane frescoes.
(photo courtesy of the writer Luisa Pachera born in Avio - www.luisapachera.it)
Villa Del BeneThis Renaissance villa stands along the ancient Tridentine roada few metres from the Adige River.The stairs, loggia and therooms on the noble floor are all decorated with a vast seriesof frescoes. Here the atmosphere is truly fascinating.
Madonna della CoronaThis is the most courageous sanctuary ever built in Italy: it isexcavated in a rocky wall at 774 m a.s.l. and boasts a naturalterrace that looks over the Adige Valley.This place of worshipis visited by both Italian and foreign faithfuls and can bereached from Brentino Belluno or Spiazzi following apanoramic path.
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A heritage to safeguard The Terra dei Forti is a microarea that
belongs to the “Valdadige” DOC mark. Itcomprises the territory belonging to themunicipalities of Rivoli Veronese, BrentinoBelluno, Dolcè and Avio with a total vinearea of 1,300 hectares. 16 wine cellars andeight hundred wine-makers work to safe-guard the “Valdadige Terra dei Forti” DOCmark: this is to guarantee that these high-quality wines are produced exclusively withgrapes coming from this region with itsunique pedo-climatic and environmentalcharacteristics.
Unforgettable wines
The DOC mark comprises the wines: Enantio, Rosso Superiore, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon (also the “reserve” version); Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Sauvignon
Legacy from 1600
The vineyard gardeners In this area the vines are surrounded by thick woods. Each
plot looks like a garden. Each vineyard is carefully cared forin full respect of the surrounding environment.This is to safe-guard the production of wines with unique characteristicsand to preserve their peculiarities. Each procedure is carriedout with great care, professionalism and passion.
The harvesting is completely manual: in this way the ripebunches carried to the cellar remain intact so as to collectthe best of its juice.
The picking starts once the grapes are fully ripe: at thebeginning of September for the Pinot Grigio, while theEnantio can take advantage of the rays of sunshine up to October.
The harvest
Ripe grapes
The Ganzega
On the last day of the harvest,
the winegrowers and pickers join together
to celebrate the end of their work
with a party with traditional dishes, such as
salt cod with polenta or some salami.“Stroppe” used to bind the vines: they are
young and flexible branches of willow.
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Enantio: the ambassador of the Terradeiforti
The Enantio is the major black-grape vine of theTerra dei Forti. It is essentially an autochthonousvine that was born right in this area. Some recentstudies by the Università Cattolica of Milan showthat there are some strong phylo-genetic bondsbetween this wine and wild vines found in the localwoods.This proves that this vine originates directlyfrom this progenitor and thus that it was born heresome millenniums ago.
The Enantio is well appreciated by the viticultur-ists for its rustic characteristics and because it canwell adapt to different grounds, as long as mainly cal-careous. Besides, it is highly resistant to parasitesand winter frost: it is truly an organic vine!
The pride of winegrowersA bunch of Enantio grapes
The typical jagged edge leaf of the Enantio vine
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The Enantio is a unique wine.It has a very intense ruby-red colour and a pow-erful scent of ripe fruit. It is a bodied wine withstrong and dominant tannins that are softenedafter maturing in wooden barrels.
Combinations: traditionally it can accompanygame-based dishes, grilled meat, stewed meat,the "pastisada de caval" and mature cheeses,such as the Monte Veronese DOP
All local viticulturists knowthe history of their most pre-cious vine. The Enantio wasalready quoted in the first cen-tury a.D. by the Roman writerPliny as:“La brusca: hoc est vitissilvestris, quod vocatur oenan-thium”, a wild vine calledEnantio. In 1596, in his book"Storia naturale dei vini" (natu-ral history of wines) Bacciwrites about the "labrusca"grape that was produced in theTridentine area from where the wines of Enantio came. It is still possible to find somevines that are more than 100 years old: they survived the vine phylloxera pest at theturn of the twentieth century and are preserved to study their peculiarities.
Enantio vineyards in autumn
The old dishes: polenta with Monte Veronese DOP cheese and mushrooms; salted beef and beans
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Pinot Grigio: the story of success
The local winegrowers havecultivated this aristocraticvine for more than 40 years. Inthe Terra dei Forti, the PinotGrigio can express all itspotentiality mainly thanks tothe vocational characteristicsof the territory. But not only:this wine also needs specialagronomic cares such as thin-ning the buds, stripping, top-ping and thinning the grapes.All procedures that have beenimproved over the years by our growers with great passion. Moreover, the local micro-climate ensures the perfect ripening of these very delicate grapes: the constant aerationallows harvesting perfectly sane grapes so as to guarantee the production of high-qual-ity wines.
Unmistakable
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Bunches of Pinot Grigio
Some vineyards enclosed between the Monte Baldo and the Lessinia
Pinot GrigioAt first glance, the straw-yellowcolour gives the impression of aparticularly refined and elegantwine, while a golden shade sug-gests a full-bodied Pinot Grigio thatwas matured in small oak barrelsand then refined in bottles.Thiswine is fruity while still young(pear and hazelnut notes) andthen acquires a more complexbouquet that reminds us of dryhay and toasted almonds. Ourpalate fully enjoys the intensity,persistency and elegance of thetaste and olfactory sensations itprovokes.
Combinations: itperfectly accompaniesthe white asparagus ofRivoli with vinaigretteand boiled eggs orcooked in risotto. Itperfectly complementsraw ham, the fettuccinewith duck or rabbitragout, as well as whitemeat and dishes madewith fish and shellfish
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The old dishes: trout from the Adige River with polenta
The old dishes: fettuccine with rabbit ragout
Foja TondaThis wine boasts a strong personality. Itcan be easily recognized for its flavourof prunes and maraschino cherries,cinnamon and tobacco that togetherwith moss enhance its wild character.The taste in the mouth is smooth andcreamy despite its noteworthy bitter-ness: this is a notable feature in combi-nation with the various dishes. In fact,if drunk while still young, it perfectlycomplements very rich fresh pasta,braised or stewed meat.After maturingfor a few years, it perfectly accompa-nies large game and roasted meat, aswell as a mixed cheese board
“Casetta” or “Foja Tonda”,the traditional vine
From the ampelographic standpoint this wine isclassified with the name “Casetta”, but the growerscall it “Foja Tonda” (round leaf).This is to distinguishit from the Enantio with jagged-edge leaf. Thisancient vine also derives from the Terra dei Fortiand was first recuperated by Albino Armani whoprovided it with its undoubted quality.At present, itis cultivated only in 12 hectares. These are mainlyold vines but have remained “franche di piede”, that is they managed to survive with-out being grafted onto American roots to survive the vine phylloxera that destroys theEuropean roots. It has been grown for centuries in this area along the Adige River andhalfway up the hills where it yields small and very sweet bunches.
It is classified as a variety in danger of extinction: for this reason in 2002 it was addedto the varieties that can be cultivated, as formerly, paradoxically, it was not authorized.
The Wine Protection Consortium intends to comprise the Casetta in the Terra deiForti DOC mark so as to safeguard its production and to increase its popularityamong the consumers.
The old dishes: bigoli with duck sauce
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Bunches of Casetta
The seduction of the sensesTasting a glass of wine is a ritual, a subtle seduc-
tion of the senses.The eyes are fixed on the bottletrying to figure out the colour of the nectar throughthe coloured glass.Then it is the turn of the ears asthe bottle is uncorked. Then the cork exudes thefirst scents that arouse the nose. Finally the winecomes out of the bottle and dives into the glass.
The ears are captivated by the small waterfall andthe eyes instantly examine the reflections andcolour of the wine.The nose hesitates as if enchant-ed by the aromas that rise inviting.After decanting,leave these sensations settle for a while, try to cap-ture their essence... and finally bring the glass toyour lips.
Decanting the sensations
The intense red colour of Enantio
A refining wine cellar
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The wine cellars
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Al Molino
Loc. Molino 303/a37020 Dolcè (VR)Tel. 045 7290088Fax 045 7290266
Az. Agr. Bongiovanni
Via S.Antonio, 2838063 Sabbionara d’Avio (TN)Tel. 0464 684388 - Fax 0464 684063
CantinaValdadige s.c.a.r.l.
Via Don C. Scala, 45Rivalta37020 Brentino Belluno (VR)Tel. 045 6284064 - Fax 045 6284084
Az. Agr. Le Fraghe
Loc. Colombara, 3737010 Cavaion Veronese (VR)Tel. 045 7236832 - Fax 045 6260183www.lefraghe.it
Marco Borghetti
Via dei Prè, 230Ossenigo37020 Dolcè (VR)Tel. - Fax 045 6284040
Giuseppe Cristini
Via Ponte, 127Peri37020 Dolcè (VR)Tel. e Fax 045 7270053www.vinicristini.it
Albino ArmaniVia Ceradello, 40137020 Dolcè (VR)Tel. 045 7290033Tel. 045 7290285Fax 045 7290023e.mail: [email protected]. albinoarmani. com
Az. Agr. Gasparini
Via Palazzo, 237010 Rivoli V.se (VR)Tel. 0457 281 091Fax. 0457 281 092
= associated to the “Strada del vino e dei prodotti tipici “Terradeiforti” - www.terradeiforti.it
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Az. Agr.LetrariVia Monte Baldo, 13-1538068 Rovereto (TN)Tel. 046 4480200Fax 046 4401451www.letrari.com
F.lli Poggi
Via Poggi, 737010 Affi (VR)Tel. - Fax 045 7235044www.cantinepoggi.com
La Prebenda
Via Santuario, 237020 Brentino Belluno (VR)Tel. e Fax 045 6255069www.laprebenda.it
Az. Agr. Roeno
Via Mama, 537020 Brentino Belluno (VR)Tel.- Fax 045 7230110
MasoRoveri
Via Masi, 23Vò Sinistro38063 Avio (TN)Tel. - Fax 0464 684395www.masoroveri.it
Az. Agr.Renato Scala Via Molini, 1037020 Belluno Veronese (VR)Tel. 045 7230118
CantinaSocialedi AvioVia Dante, 1438063 Avio (TN)Tel. 0464 684008 - Fax 0464 684921www.viticoltoriinavio.it
Az. Agr. Roccapia
loc. Coletto37010Rivoli Veronese (VR)Tel. 045 7280202www.roccapia.net
RenatoScala
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The rediscovery of taste The consumers are rediscovering the values of traditional food following a
period of indifference.Thanks to this rediscovery, some genuine specialities that result from ancient
traditions are gaining more and more popularity.
The guardians of taste
The Monte Veronese DOPThe Terra dei Forti belongs to theproduction area of the MonteVeronese cheese that gainedthe DOP mark in 1993.Originally, this cheese was pro-duced by the Cimbrian people
who had Bavarian-Tyrolean origins and began settling inthis territory in the 13th century.The “Monte VeroneseDOP” is a cheese exclusively made with cow milk com-ing from the rich pastures of the Lessinia that still pre-serve their natural features. There are two varieties:whole milk and “d’allevo” (from farm bred animals).The
“Monte Veronese DOP” with wholemilk: a cheese with half-cooked pastemade with the milk resulting from oneor two successive milkings.The matur-ing process lasts for about thirty days.It has a delicate and pleasant taste. It isa table cheese that can be eaten as asingle dish or accompanied with wal-nuts, pears and grapes, or that can beused to cook polenta and country-style cakes.The “Monte Veronese DOP” d’allevo ismade with semi-skimmed milk and is
left to rest for at least 90 days if for eating at the table or up to two years if usedfor grating. It is delicious accompanied by the Lessinia honey and the Enantiofrom the Terra dei Forti.
Extra virgin olive oil DOP of the Eastern Shore of Lake GardaThanks to the mild microclimate of LakeGarda that affects the DOP areas of Rivoliand Brentino Belluno, this is the oil that isproduced at the most northern latitude inthe world.It boasts a particularly refined quality asthe olives are still hand picked directlyfrom the plant and are then cold-pressedand crushed in the grinders.The “Garda Orientale DOP” oil has a gold-en-green colour. It has a delicate fruityaroma which is reflected in the taste alongwith a slight hint of sweet almonds. It isone of the best extra virgin olive oilsthanks to its low acidity level and to thelong-lasting freshness deriving from thehigh chlorophyll content. It is ideal for
dressing any dish and is also used to prepare the traditional “fogasin su lagradèla”.
The “Marrone di San Zeno DOP”Some century-old chestnut trees still yield their tastyfruit on the slopes of Monte Baldo up to an altitude of800 m a.s.l., mainly on the side giving to Lake Garda: themarroni (large chestnuts). It is the “noble” variety of thechestnut. Usually it is
bigger, long and oval, lighter in colour with well-marked dark streaks, a thin skin and sweet andtasty flesh.Since the Middle Ages, this fruit has always beena valuable vitamin and protein source for ouralpine populations, especially when there was alack of food. To this day they are still picked
with the traditionalmethods. It can be boiled in water with salt and sageor roasted in the oven, and is eaten with a glass ofnouvelle wine in the autumn evenings.It is a basic ingredient for jams, sweets and marronglacè, and its taste is even greater enhanced in thesoup that represents the alpine version of the typicalbean soup of Veneto.
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The truffles of the “Monte Baldo Veronese IGP”The Monte Baldo Veronese truffle is also an importantpart of the local gastronomy and the Truffle-growersAssociation soon hopes to gain the IGP mark for thisproduct.The Baldo truf-
fles were already well-known and appreci-ated in the 16th century by the GonzagaCourt in Mantua.In the woods of Monte Baldo, the experthunters find mainly the black truffle (tuberaestivum) the so-called “scorzone”.But there are also other varieties, such asthe precious melanosporum, perfect forrisottos and tagliatelle.The typical local dish is the “tortabaldense” made with Monte Baldo maturecheese that is melted together with theblack truffle. In autumn, the truffle and themarrone of San Zeno are celebrated at the“Buongusto d’Autunno” fair that is organ-ized by the Consortium and by the“Strada del Vino e dei Prodotti Tipici dellaTerra dei Forti”.
The white asparagus of RivoliThe white asparagus, another quality product of the Terra dei Forti, isgrown exclusively on the morainic hills around Rivoli Veronese thatwere left by the Quaternary Age glaciers and then modelled by thefloods of the Adige River. Its characteristic colour derives from thefact that it grows underground in the absence of light. This veg-etable, though low in calories and carbohydrates, is very rich inproteins, vitamins and minerals. It can be eaten boiled, with avinaigrette dressing and accompanied by boiled eggs and theTerra dei Forti Pinot Grigio wine. It is the spring vegetablepar excellence and is also delicious in first course saucesand risottos. In spite of its limited production, the aspara-gus of Rivoli is the protagonist of a popular festival held dur-ing the first week of May and of the “Cantico di Primavera”, aninitiative organized by the Consortium and by the “Strada del Vino e dei ProdottiTipici della Terra dei Forti”.
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The kiwi of the Terra dei FortiIn the early 60s, the vineyards ofthe Terra dei Forti were flanked bya similar number of rows of kiwis,which at the time were onlyknown in Asia and New Zealand.This fruit easily adapted to themild climate of the valley andalong with the growers' experi-ence, its ripening close to thegrape harvest and the consumers’approval it became very popular.In fact, it is very rich in vitamin Cand ideal for fresh juices.
The trouts of the Terra dei FortiThe gastronomy of the Terra dei Forti iseven more enriched by the trouts thatswim in the Adige River. They can besavoured in the recipes of our skilledchefs and accompanied by the bestwhite wines of the Terra dei Forti.
Valdadige Terra dei Forti home-made breadsticksIn the heart of the Terra deiForti, in Belluno Veronese,you can find the Bakery ofthe Zorzi brothers. Theirmain product is the Valdadige
breadstick, a true delicacy resulting from asecret and matchless recipe. These bread-sticks are light and crumbly.They are hand-made and keep their unmistakable and gen-uine taste.
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A mixture of cultures at the table Be seduced by our varied gastronomy.
This is an area of passage where the tra-ditions of Veneto and Trentino mixtogether. Here the mountain tastes andflavours join with those of the valleyfloor. And this creates a cuisine thatnever fails to surprise, that can offermountain dishes, such as the MonteBaldo cheese with chanterelles andpolenta, alongside river dishes, such assoused trout. In the same way the typicaldishes of Veneto, such as potato gnocchior tagliatelle with duck sauce, are flankedby the most traditional recipes ofTrentino, such as the canederli (dumplings)or the salted beef. And all these flavours can be even more enhanced by the variedand excellent wines of the Terra dei Forti.
Rediscovered flavours
The old dishes: gnocchi with tomato sauce
The old dishes: canederli (dumplings) in broth
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Enjoying the Terra dei FortiTo fully enjoy the Terra dei Forti you must soak up all its traditions with the
help of the local people. The occasions to do so are many: in every season visi-tors and gourmets can enjoy the wine cellars, restaurants, castles, forts and his-torical villas that are open to the public.
The “Cantico di Primavera”A wine and food tasting event held in spring whose main protagonist is the whiteasparagus of Rivoli that is prepared by the best chefs and accompanied by the PinotGrigio of the Terra dei Forti.
“Storia e sapori tra borghi e castelli”Wine, history and typical products: these are the leading characters of this event thatis held on the third Sunday of May at the Fort of Rivoli, a symbolic location of theTerra dei Forti.
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“Uva e dintorni”During the first week of September, the historical centres of Avio and Sabbionarahost the Harvest Festival: this is to celebrate the harvest ritual and the wines of theTerra dei Forti and boasts a wine and food tasting route accompanied by music,games in medieval costumes and other entertaining shows.
The “Buongusto d’Autunno”This is the autumn appointment with the flavours and beauties of the Terra dei Forti.From mid November to mid December, our chefs conjure up delicious menus basedon the Baldo Veronese truffle and the marrone of San Zeno DOP, whilst the valley’streasure chest is opened so you can enjoy guided tours, recollections of the past andconferences.
See the updated calendar atwww.terradeiforti.it
Consorzio Tutela Vini TerradeifortiVia don Cesare Scala, 45
37020 Brentino Belluno - VERONA
Tel. 045 7270521 - Fax 045 7270520
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