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Table of Contents

INTRODUCTION (RIGHT HANDER) _____________________________ 4

DAY 1 – THE GRIP (RIGHT HANDER) __________________________ 16

DAY 1 TASKS ____________________________________________________25

DAY 2 – BALL AND FEET POSITIONING (RIGHT HANDER) __________ 26

DAY 2 TASKS ____________________________________________________27

DAY 3 – POSTURE (RIGHT HANDER) __________________________ 29

DAY 3 TASKS ____________________________________________________34

DAY 4 – ALIGNMENT (RIGHT HANDER) ________________________ 35

DAY 4 TASKS ____________________________________________________37

DAY 5 - THE COMPLETE SETUP THAT WILL HELP YOU TO PRODUCE A DRAW/HOOK CONSISTENTLY! (RIGHT HANDER) _________________ 39

DAY 5 TASKS ____________________________________________________39

DAY 6 - THE TAKE-AWAY (RIGHT HANDER) _____________________ 42

DAY 6 TASKS ____________________________________________________51

DAY 7 - CLUB PARALLEL POSITION (RIGHT HANDER) _____________ 52

DAY 7 TASKS ____________________________________________________52

DAY 8 - THE BACKSWING TURN WITH A SOLID BACK LEG (RIGHT HANDER) _______________________________________________ 55

DAY 8 TASKS ____________________________________________________55

DAY 9 - UPRIGHT BACKSWING DRILL (RIGHT HANDER) ___________ 58

DAY 9 TASKS ____________________________________________________58

DAY 10 - THE START OF THE DOWNSWING (RIGHT HANDER) _______ 62

DAY 10 TASKS ___________________________________________________64

DAY 11 - THE RELEASE…PART 1 (RIGHT HANDER) _______________ 68

DAY 11 TASKS ___________________________________________________68

DAY 12 - THE RELEASE…PART 2 (RIGHT HANDER) _______________ 73

DAY 12 TASKS ___________________________________________________73

DAY 13 - THE RELEASE…PART 3 (RIGHT HANDER) _______________ 77

DAY 13 TASKS ___________________________________________________77

DAY 14 - RIGHT SHOULDER MOVING UNDER, THROUGH AND UP ON THE FOLLOW-THROUGH (RIGHT HANDER) _________________________ 79

DAY 14 TASKS ___________________________________________________79

DAY 15 - STRIKING THE BALL FROM THE INSIDE (RIGHT HANDER) __ 84

DAY 15 TASKS ___________________________________________________85

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DAY 16 - THE EQUIPMENT NEEDED TO CONSISTENTLY DRAW THE BALL (RIGHT HANDER) _________________________________________ 87

Shaft Flex ____________________________________________________87 Shaft Kickpoint ________________________________________________89 Shaft Torque _________________________________________________89 Lie Angle ____________________________________________________90

DAY 16 TASKS ___________________________________________________90

DAY 17 - ADJUSTMENTS FOR A CONSISTENT DRAW (RIGHT HANDER) 93

DAY 17 TASKS ___________________________________________________93 Grip ________________________________________________________93 Ball And Feet Positioning ________________________________________96 Posture ______________________________________________________97 Alignment____________________________________________________99

CONCLUSION (RIGHT HANDER) _____________________________ 108

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Introduction (Right Hander)

Welcome to this Pro Draw System. This system was developed so that you would get

to experience the thrill and joy of hitting long, controlled draws in the quickest possible time – gaining you up to 17 yards more distance.

The reason I say 17 yards more distance is

because in 1981 the people at ‘Golf Digest’ did an extensive test into the differences between a fade and a draw. The results they found were that "a controlled draw with a driver travels appreciably further than a fade."

They got these results by setting up a driving machine to swing at 90 mph

which is an average swing speed for a 5 to 10 handicapper, and then setting the driver at 1 ½ degrees closed to produce a draw and 1 ½ degrees open to produce a fade. The swing path and angle of attack were not changed for either shape of shot.

‘Golf Digest’ found that into a slight headwind, the drawn shots averaged

233 yards in carry and roll, the fades only 216. They both finished an average of 18 yards left or right of center. The lower-flying draws rolled further than the higher-soaring fades, 16 or 17 yards compared with less than nine yards for the fades - because the landing angle was less severe. But the draws also carried further, an average of 217 yards for the draw and less than 208 yards for the fade.

Now, those are some pretty old result however. 1981! That's 36 years

ago at the time of this writing. So here's some newer research into whether draws go further than fades.

In 2015, golf pro, Andrew Rice did some research into whether draws go

further than fades and found that it's a fact, a drawn shot goes further than a fade shot.

Here was the conclusion of this research that you can see here:

"Draws go further than fades! Wow - you knew that already, but why? This test shows that the primary reasons appear to a reduction in spin rate, a more ascending attack angle with a draw biased swing, and better energy transfer from club to ball.

Just imagine if you could convert from good fades to good draws - you would have one less club into every green on the course! And I know you're better with a 7 iron in your hand than a 6 iron."

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The distance gain from this draw vs. fade study was 9 yards longer with

the draw shot. So you could say you're going to gain anywhere from 9 to 17 yards in

distance when you change ball flights... from a left to right ball flight to a right to left ball flight.

But I think that's conservative and here's why... If you're currently hitting slices then the difference between a well hit draw

shot and a slice is huge. Couple that with the great feeling of hitting a real pro draw and you'll dramatically improve your confidence, and with more confidence your swing will be more positive through the ball. (This newly found confidence may only result in an increase in swing speed of say 1-5 mph but that would send the ball another 10 yards further easily. Add to that the 9 - 17-yard increase from the draw and the result is an overall improvement of 19 - 27 yards!)

That's at least 1 - 2 clubs less into hole, just from your drive. But you'll

also be hitting your irons longer too! Now before you get too excited about this extra length, you must realize

that it's only going to happen if you put into action what I recommend you do each day.

It's only going to happen if you forget about results for the length of

this program, and concentrate on the tasks you should be doing on any given day and exaggerate the opposite of what you’re doing to hit a fade/slice!

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Unlike what others may have you believe, hitting a professional draw is not hard or complicated. But it's like anything, if you don't know how to do something or have never been shown then of course it's hard or difficult.

Now, there are only three possible reasons why you would slice a golf ball,

and they are….

1. You setup for a slice. Here are the general setup characteristics of a slicer.

• Everything is aimed left (right for a left hander) i.e. shoulders, hips, knees,

feet and even the clubface. • The spine is tilted towards the target in an effort to keep the ball from

flying right (left for a left hander). • The ball is positioned too far forward in the stance. • The grip is generally weak.

An example of a great golfer using a weak grip is Ben Hogan: The thing that most golfers don’t understand is the reason Ben used a weak grip was to combat a bad hook problem. You don’t have that problem otherwise you’re reading the wrong book!

2. Your equipment encourages a fade/slice. The equipment you are currently using could very well be contributing to your slicing problem, and as you go through this system I'm going to explain exactly how you can check to see if it is and then what to do about it.

3. Your setup encourages a swing that hit's a golf ball with a crosscutting or glancing blow. This glancing of the ball is created when the clubface is pointing in a different direction than the clubhead is travelling at impact.

Ben Hogan’s Grip

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Now it's very important that you understand what we're trying to achieve here. And there's 3 key elements at impact that largely determine the shape of the shot you hit, they are...

• Swing Path • Clubface Alignment at Impact • Strike Location on clubface

I'm going to show you 3 types of shots to show you the relationship between path and clubface alignment and how that effects the flight of the ball. Before I do that however, just understand that the direction of the clubface at impact largely dictates the starting direction of the shot. The clubface path does not do this. So let's look at what it would take to hit a straight golf shot. At impact the clubface alignment must be pointing directly at the target. Also, the swing path should be straight at the target. Finally, the strike location should be right out of the middle. The strike location does influence the curve on the ball. The more you strike the ball on the toe of the club the more it will draw/hook or resist fading/slicing. The more you strike the ball on the heel, the more it will fade/slice or resist drawing/hooking. Here is a picture of what it takes to hit a straight golf shot...

Straight Golf Shot: O degrees path and clubface (trackman, flightscope etc.)

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Ok, let's now look at a professional fade. Now to hit a fade that doesn't lose a ton of distance then the path must be outside to inside by about 4 degrees. And the clubface must be slightly open to the path. But the club face at impact will be slightly closed to the target line. This has to be the case for the ball to start to the left of the target and then curve back to the target. How much a ball curves is a result of the difference between the path and the face angle. So if you have a big out to in swing path of -12 degrees and the clubface is open 2 degrees to the target then that's a difference of 14 degrees. With those sort of numbers you're going to get a shot that starts fractionally right of the target and then curves way further right. So a professional fade has a small amount of difference between the face alignment and path direction. Here's a pictorial example of this Professional Fade: -4 degrees club path and -2 clubface alignment (trackman etc.)

Notice how the clubface is closed to the target line but open relative to the club path. Any time (as a general rule) the clubface is open to the path then the ball will curve left to right. Let's now look at a power draw, which is what this system is going to help you produce. To hit a power draw the clubface should be open at impact to the target. It has to be open to make the ball start to the right of your target line. To make the ball curve back to the target the club path must be more in-to-out than the clubface alignment at impact. So the ideal numbers to hit a

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draw that curves back to the target should be to have a clubface that is 2 degrees open at impact and a club path that is 4 degrees in-to-out. Here's a pictorial example of this. Professional Draw: +4 degrees club path and +2 clubface alignment (trackman etc.) There was a study done by golf.com into what was the best way to help fix a slice. And they found that the quickest way to help a slicer to make a change was to simply show them the in-to-out path to swing the club on and get them to try to do that. To help them do this they showed them a picture like this....

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So to start hitting draws in record time you need to try and swing out to the right. When you're over the ball this is what you need to be trying to do with your swing path.

Swing Path

Target

Target

Swing Path

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Target

Swing Path

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From now on, you need to have this image in your mind as you're swinging. And to help you go from a left to right ball flight golfer to the opposite, here's the plan...

First of all, on Days 1 thru 5 I am going to get you to exaggerate a

setup that will encourage you to hook the ball. Yes, you read right, hook the ball! You see your swing is largely a result of your setup positions so to get you

out of your slicing swing in the quickest possible time you need to do the exact opposite in your setup.

And I guarantee that if you follow the instructions as I prescribe

then you will and should feel uncomfortable! If at any stage over the next 17 days you feel totally comfortable doing the

exercise or drill for that day then that probably means you're not doing it correctly! And let me clarify that…

Slicing is a habit and changing any habit causes us to feel uncomfortable. Any new skill or technique you've learned over your life at first felt

uncomfortable - for example, learning to drive a car felt difficult and awkward to start with, but now its second nature, isn't it? Well, the same thing will happen as you're completing this system.

Initially you'll feel very uncomfortable with what I want you to do, but then,

over time, these moves and positions will become “habits” and you'll feel comfortable once again. You see to change, to grow, to get a new experience, you need to feel uncomfortable and if you don't feel uncomfortable you aren't learning.

So please, over the next 17 days, exaggerate, throw caution to the

wind, forget about results for a bit and focus on getting out of your comfort zone so that you can create a new, positive habit quickly and easily.

Remember - if you keep doing what you've always done you'll keep getting

the same results! If you don't do something because it feels strange or uncomfortable

and you decide to make changes gradually then expect gradual results. And I’ll say this again, if you want to change your slicing habit quickly, then you must do the opposite of what you're currently doing and that, I can tell you from experience, will feel strange and uncomfortable.

Now on most days, I suggest you practice each exercise or drill for at least

15 minutes. But that is only going to have a cumulative effect at the end of the 17 days if, and only if you do what I say "correctly" and correctly really means

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"exaggerated." The more exaggerated you do the day's exercise or drill the quicker you'll go from a slicer to a drawer.

If I had to sum up the philosophy of this system in one sentence it would

be…. “Exaggerate the exact opposite of what you’re currently

doing and you’ll hit pro draw's fast!” Now please feel free to do more than 15 minutes of work on each exercise.

Because the more you do, the quicker you’ll be drawing the ball. And remember, that means an increase of at least 17 yards, so do more rather than less if you want this increase sooner rather than later.

On Days 6 thru 15 I'm going to get you doing drills and exercises that will

quickly groove a new swing. And this new swing will help you to approach your shots a lot from the inside and with slightly-closed clubface (closed to the path - open to the target) as you contact the ball. These are the only two ingredients you need during your swing to hit a hook.

Then on Day 16 I give you detailed information about your equipment and

whether it is right for you and the shape of shot you're trying to hit, or not. Finally, on Day 17 I’ll give you detailed instructions on how you can setup

to draw the ball rather than the exaggerated hook setup I give you on Days 1-5. Plus, I'll give you lot's of information on what you can do to hit a pro-draw. A shot shape that you can trust in.

For the first, 16 days, this is the type of ball flight I want you to be hitting

consistently...

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Ball Flight To Try For, For The First 16 Days For the first 16 days I want you to try and start the ball way to the right of

the target and then get the ball to finish left of the target. Then, the goal, which I'm going to be helping you to do on Day 17 is to get the ball to start to the right of the target, but not go left of the target. Here is a picture of this.

Ball Flight For Day 17 Onwards

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So with all of that being said, in order to succeed with this system, be willing to fail. Get out of your comfort zone and start forming a great new habit. One that will help you to hit the ball longer than you ever have before. Here's a great quote that encapsulates perfectly what I'm trying to say…

"People dreaming but never daring, never willing to say, 'I can,' never trusting their dreams to the real world of action and effort - people, in short, who are so afraid of failure that they fail."

Richard M. Devos

Take some action and effort right now by turning to Day 1 and start your journey to hitting long, powerful draws…

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Day 1 – The Grip (Right Hander)

The way you place your hands on the grip will largely dictate how you swing the club and what shape of shot you can hit consistently. I am going to show you how to form a grip that will encourage a right-to-left ball flight, but it’s up to you to put this information into action.

Now to start with, I highly recommend that you EXAGGERATE the grip I’m going to show you because you’ll make the change from a slicer to a golfer who draws the ball, so much quicker. And when practicing your grip, I highly recommend you do so with your feet together (see the picture of the student below) as this is a stance you can repeat consistently and this will allow you to form a repeating grip day after day.

Form the grip with the club in the middle of your feet and your right hand holding the club ready for the left hand.

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Once you’re in a position similar to the one on the previous page, the next step is to place your left hand on the grip. So bring your left hand up to the grip and make sure the back of your hand is pointing at the target. Now position the grip of the club as is pictured below, running across the top joint of your forefinger and under the heel of your palm.

At this point I must emphasize that the more you hold the club in the

fingers of your left hand, the easier it is to draw the ball. Below is a picture that demonstrates from a different angle what I’m talking about.

Once your left-hand grip is in a position similar to what you’ve been shown in the previous couple of pictures, you can now crook your forefinger around the shaft. And from doing this you'll find that you can raise the club up off the ground and maintain a firm grip just by supporting the club with the muscles of your forefinger and the pad of your palm. Here are some pictures to demonstrate what I mean…

Notice how the club is running much more in the fingers of the top hand than the previous picture. This will make it much easier to draw the ball. And remember – exaggeration at this stage will result in a quicker change.

SIDE NOTE: You’ll notice that this golfer is holding the club at the top with his right hand. This is so you get a better view of the grip. But you can also do this when starting out

Have the shaft running from the top joint of your forefinger to under the heel of your palm.

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Once you’ve achieved this position, lower the club back down and simply

close the last three fingers of the left hand around the club. And before you place your thumb on the grip you need to know where to position it.

Your left-hand thumb should be put in a position just to the right side of

the front of the grip. Doing this will cause a V to be formed through the line between the thumb and your index finger. This V should point up towards your right shoulder, but don’t be too concerned about where it points. Rather take very careful notice of how many knuckles you can see when you look down on your left-hand grip.

And I suggest to really promote a hook, that you should see at least 3

knuckles when you look down on your completed left-hand grip, but 4 knuckles would be advisable at this early stage. Remember that exaggeration will result in quicker change.

Notice how only the forefinger and palm are supporting the club. Do not continue until you can achieve this.

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So when your left hand is in a position similar to the picture above and

you can see three to four knuckles when you look down, then proceed to placing your right hand on the grip. But before you do this I want to discuss something about your actual physical grip (i.e. the thing you hold onto on your club!) that can either make it easier or harder to draw the ball.

Grips come in different sizes, shapes and styles. The key-determining

factor that a grip has on the shape of shot you can hit is the size of the grip. If your grips are too thick for you, then you will find it hard to ever draw a golf ball. So it makes sense that if you want to draw a ball you should select a grip that is thinner rather than thicker.

A good way to tell if a grip is either too thick or too thin for you is by

gripping a club with just your left hand as you’ve been shown and then noticing the positioning of your middle fingers. And here is a rough guide that will indicate whether your grip sizes are right for you or not.

At this point you should see at least three to four knuckles when you look down on your completed left-hand grip. Also note how the V that is formed by the left thumb and forefinger is pointing towards the right shoulder.

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• If the tips of your middle fingers barely touch the pad of your palm then the grip is OK for you.

• If your middle fingers don’t touch the pad of your palm then that indicates that your grips are too big for you.

• If your fingers push into the pad of your palm then that indicates that your grips are possibly too small for your hands. Below are some pictures, which will clearly explain what you should be

looking for when testing your grip sizes…

Grip Too Thin Perfect Sized Grip Grip Too Fat

Go through all of your clubs and test this NOW! And if you find that your grips are too small or just right then great, but if

you find that any of your grips are too fat then get them changed immediately. I mean today, right now. Go and get them taken off and get new thinner grips added. You may find that when the pro takes your grips off they have tape under them. Tape is placed under grips to fatten them up so be careful that this hasn’t been done to your grips.

Now let’s move on to joining your right hand to your left hand. There are

basically three different ways in which you can grip with the right hand, and I'm talking about the underneath part of the grip at the moment. The three differences are called the Interlocking grip, the Vardon/Overlapping grip and the Ten Finger grip. Each of these variances is pictured on the next page for you to have a look at.

See how the fingers are digging into the pad of the left hand. This indicates that the grip is too thin. This is preferable over a grip, which is too fat, so don't change it yet.

This grip size is perfect because the tips of the fingers are just barely touching the pad of the left hand.

Note how far away the fingers are from the pad of the hand. This size of grip can only promote a fade/slice so get them changed NOW!

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Interlocking Ten Finger Vardon/Overlapping

The Interlocking grip is used by Jack Nicklaus, Tiger Woods and John

Daly, but for most golfers and especially for golfers that slice the ball, this should not be used because the Interlocking grip tends to restrict the hands from releasing in the swing, which can cause slices.

The Ten Finger grip is great for young children and some ladies, and it’s

especially good for golfers who slice the ball to practice with as it encourages a more free and relaxed use of the hands, which can only encourage a draw.

The Vardon/Overlapping grip is used by the majority of the top golfers

in the world today and this is the one that I recommend most golfers should use.

And I am only going to cover the Vardon grip from now on as that is the most popular and probably the best grip to use for most golfers.

So to grip the club with the right hand you must understand that the grip

should be completely in the fingers. Here is a picture that shows you where the club should lie in the right hand.

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Here are some more pictures that show you how you should attach your

right hand to the already completed left hand. It is very important that you note that the grip of the right hand is all in the fingers, not in the palms. And like the left hand, the more you have your right hand in the fingers the more likely you are to draw/hook the ball.

Notice how the right hand grip is formed entirely in the fingers.

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After getting to this position you simply have to overlap your right hand so the lifeline of your right hand fits snugly over your left thumb.

There should be no gaps between your right hand and left thumb, as they

should fit snugly together.

Over the page is the completed grip, and the important thing to notice is that the V's of both hands are pointing in the same direction (along the same parallel lines). This is critically important.

Don’t make the mistake that many do of thinking that the V of the right

hand should be pointing to the same place as the V of the left hand. If you do this your right hand will be weaker than your left hand and this will cause the hands to fight each other during the swing and lead to inconsistencies.

Also make sure that the thumb of your right hand rides down the left-hand

side of the grip and not on top of the club, as many people do.

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Completed Right Hander Grip Used To Promote A Draw/Hook

So once your grip is formed like above, go in front of a mirror and complete

your grip again and compare it to the picture of the completed grip of the student above.

I know there is a lot of information here so following is a summary to help

you practice your new grip. And you should practice making and re-making your grip on the club for at least 15 minutes today and remember, exaggerate!

Notice how the V’s of both hands are pointing along the same parallel lines. This is a very important element that should be present in your grip.

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Day 1 Tasks

• Position the shaft so that it’s running across the top joint of your forefinger and under the heel of the palm of your left hand. Note: the more you place your left-hand grip in the fingers the more it will encourage a draw/hook.

• The thumb of your left hand should be put in a position just to the right side of the front of the grip.

• Once you’ve completed your left-hand grip you should be able to see at least 3 to 4 knuckles when you look down. The more knuckles you can see, the quicker you’ll be drawing the ball.

• Check your grips to make sure they are not too fat. And remember, the thinner your grips the more they’ll help to promote a draw/hook.

• When joining your right hand to your left hand use either the overlapping or ten-finger grip, as these grips will help to promote a draw/hook more than an interlocking grip will.

• When gripping the club with your right hand make sure that you grip the club entirely in the fingers and the more you place the club in the fingers the more this will encourage a draw/hook.

• Make sure the V’s of both hands of your completed grip are pointing along the same parallel lines.

So now that you know how you should be gripping the club to encourage a

draw, it’s now up to you to practice it. Anytime you have spare today practice gripping the club following the points on this page and on the previous page. But make sure you practice this for at least 15 minutes.

Another thing I must mention before you move onto to Day 2 is relaxation.

Your hands, arms and wrists must be relaxed when practicing and using your grip. Most golfers who slice the ball have way too much tension in their arms, wrists and hands, which stops the club from releasing through impact.

A good technique to reduce tension over a shot is to tense your arms,

hands and wrists as hard as possible before the shot. By doing this you’ll reduce the chances of tension creeping in when you are hitting your shots.

So, you have your assignment for today. Practice it as much as possible,

and I’ll see you back here tomorrow.

Important Note: The more lofted the club the less you can curve the ball, so when assessing how your ball flight is progressing do so by hitting balls with anything from a 6-iron through to a driver.

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Day 2 – Ball And Feet Positioning (Right Hander) Where you position the ball in your stance and how you place your feet at setup has a huge effect on the shape of shots you can hit. And I’m going to show you what you need to do with these two setup components to encourage a hook. Remember that exaggeration is the quickest way to turn your slice into a draw. So once again, do what I recommend, and more. Let’s cover ball positioning first.

The further back you position the ball in your stance, the easier it is to hit a draw/hook.

So with this in mind, today you should hit some balls concentrating on placing the ball no further forward than the middle of your stance. Also when doing this, remember to implement what you learned in Day 1. The following illustrations show you exactly what you should be doing today as far as ball positioning and the grip are concerned…

Ball Position And Grip To Really Promote A Draw/Hook

Notice how far back the ball is positioned and how strong the grip is. This is what you should be doing and more, because once again, the more you exaggerate at this stage the quicker your slice will turn into a draw/hook.

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Opening the left foot out like this encourages a fade/slice, because it allows the legs to lead the downswing rather than the hands.

Now the second important aspect of your setup that will definitely help you to produce a draw/hook is your feet placement, and more specifically, your left foot. It is infinitely easier to draw/hook the ball with your left foot squarer to the target rather than turned out. The next few pictures will clearly show you what I mean….

With all this in mind here's what you should be doing today.

Day 2 Tasks

1. Practice setting up to shots, or hitting shots if you can, while positioning your ball at least in the middle of your stance, but definitely do not have the ball positioned any further forward than the middle of your stance for the first 16 days of this system. And that includes with the driver.

2. Square your left foot up, as this will encourage you to use your hands on

your downswing.

3. Also remember to grip the club so that you can see at least 3-4 knuckles of your left hand as well as doing all the other grip pointers that were mentioned on Day 1.

4. When you swing, remember to try and move the club on an in-to-out path.

Here is a pictorial summary of what you should be doing for at least

15 minutes today…

Having the left foot squarer like this encourages you to use your arms and hands more on the downswing, which naturally helps to produce a draw/hook.

Feet Positioning To Help Promote A Fade/Slice

Feet Positioning To Help Promote A Hook/Draw

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Also remember to exaggerate. I know I sound like a broken record, but I’m going to keep saying it until you do it. Most people find it very difficult to get out of their comfort zones and often when they think they are making a change, in reality they aren’t.

So get out of the scoring trap for a couple of weeks and be willing to accept a few bad results to start with, because the end results will be worth any short term sacrifices. Good luck for today and I'll see you back here tomorrow.

Today you should concentrate on positioning the ball no further forward than the middle of your stance. You should also turn your left foot in so it’s squarer, and remember to grip the club so you can see at least 3-4 knuckles of your left hand.

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Day 3 – Posture (Right Hander) If you really want to be able to consistently draw the ball 9 times out of 10, (and I know you do, otherwise you wouldn’t be reading this right now) then you must have a good athletic posture position. Now to achieve such a position is really, really easy, but unfortunately most golfers either don’t place enough importance on posture or they think their posture is OK.

Sadly, most amateur golfers have terrible posture and they don’t realize what an impact posture has on the swing itself. But like I said a second ago, it’s really easy to have good posture and here’s exactly what you should do to improve yours.

1. Stand up straight with your feet about shoulder width apart, then 2. Take the straightness out of your knees, then…

3. Place a club along your spine, and then 4. Bend forward making sure that your spine remains straight. And here is a

very, very important point when doing this exercise - you want your buttocks to move back when doing this as it creates a balanced posture position. Also you want your weight to be on the balls of your feet when setup, and it won’t be unless you follow the steps I’ve suggested. And the final step is…

1. 2.

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5. Having bent over (by moving your backside back and keeping your back straight), the next step is to move your left hip slightly towards your target. Doing this automatically places your head behind the ball - which is just what you want.

Once in this position, you can set up with a club as if to hit a ball. And you’ll probably either have to bend over more or stand up straighter, depending on what club you are using. For example, you will have to bend over more for a wedge than you would for a driver simply because a wedge is quite a bit shorter than a driver is.

3. 4.

Move your left hip slightly

towards the target.

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Driver 5-Iron

Wedge You should practice this posture exercise for at least 15 minutes today.

And use different clubs when practicing so that you can become accustomed to this new setup with all the clubs in your bag.

Now, before we wrap up this day’s exercises I want to explain to you a few

extra little things you can do when you setup that will help to encourage a draw/hook.

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As you can clearly see in the picture below, the right arm is slightly flexed (i.e. there is a slight bend at the elbow). This is a position that you should definitely attempt to emulate in your setup, because this is a position you want to get into at impact, as it will encourage a draw/hook.

To check that your setup has the above characteristics simply setup in front

of a mirror (so you are shooting directly away from the mirror) just as I’ve shown you, and then look back in the mirror. If you can’t see your left arm at all then you simply need to slightly bend your right arm so you can see just a fraction of your left arm from behind (down the line).

The final thing you can do in your setup that encourages a draw/hook is to stand slightly further away from the ball than normal. And the easiest and best way I’ve found to tell if I’m standing a good distance away from the ball is to setup as I normally would, and then I take the right hand off the grip and swing it back and forth like an elephants trunk.

Now if your right hand swings back to almost the same place as it was at

address then you are standing a good distance away from the ball – See Picture 2 over the page. But if your right hand swings back and finishes down the club as Picture 1 indicates, then you’re standing too close to the ball, especially if you’re trying to draw the ball.

See how the right arm is slightly flexed (there is a slight bend at the elbow). You should do this in your setup as it definitely encourages a draw/hook.

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And finally, if your right hand swings back and hits your top hand then that indicates that you are giving yourself more room than the norm. But because you’re trying to draw/hook the ball it’s better at this stage to stand further away from the ball than the opposite – See Picture below.

The reason I’m recommending that you stand further away from the ball is

because doing this naturally produces a more rounded swing, whereas the closer you stand to the ball the more up and down your swing will be and this certainly encourages a fade/slice.

A good reference to check that you're standing far enough away to

encourage a draw/hook is when you swing your right hand like an elephants trunk it finishes up about half way covering the left hand as you can see in Picture 3.

This exercise creates a great reference for you, and you can easily do this

yourself in front of a mirror or even when you’re practicing.

Too Close Which Helps To Promote A Fade/Slice

Just Right Further Away Which Helps To Promote A Draw

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Day 3 Tasks Your task for today is to practice the posture exercise I’ve shown you for at

least 15 minutes. And here is a summary of the posture exercise as well as the other two points you should integrate into your setup…

Posture Exercise

1. Stand up straight with your feet about shoulder width apart, then

2. Take the straightness out of your knees, then

3. Place a club along your spine, and then

4. Bend forward making sure that your spine remains straight, and here is a

very, very important point when doing this; your backside should move back when doing this as this creates a balanced posture position. Also you want your weight to be on the balls of your feet when you setup, and it won’t be unless you follow the steps I’ve suggested. And finally….

5. Once you’ve bent over (by moving the backside back and keeping the back straight) the next step is to move your left hip slightly towards your target. Doing this automatically places your head behind the ball, which is just what you want.

Then, after completing this posture exercise make sure you have some flex

in your right arm so you can see some of your left arm from behind (down the line). Also give yourself slightly more room between the butt end of your club and your body, and check this by doing the swinging arm exercise.

This posture exercise is not something that you need to exaggerate. But once you're in this posture position you should continue to exaggerate the following setup points…

• Positioning your ball back from the middle of your stance.

• Square your left foot up.

• Make sure that you can see at least 3-4 knuckles of your left hand as well as doing all the other grip pointers that were outlined on Day 1. Ok, you're doing brilliantly. I know this may not be the most exciting thing

you've ever done but these setup fundamentals are critical if you're ever going to hit long, consistent draws. So keep persevering.

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Day 4 – Alignment (Right Hander) Alignment is perhaps the most important aspect of the setup that will largely determine whether you can consistently draw the ball or not. It is also the easiest part of the setup to put into practice, BUT it will most probably be the hardest thing for you to do out on the course.

Why? Because most right handed golfers who slice the ball tend to aim further to

the left to compensate for their slice, however that only makes it worse. To hit a consistent draw you have to go against your natural instincts and

aim the opposite way than you think you need to - and obviously if you want to draw/hook the ball then you need to aim to the right. This logic makes sense, but when you actually go to do this you’ll probably find it hard and uncomfortable at first, but you must persevere and keep aiming to the right. A great definition of insanity is doing what you’ve always done and expecting different results. So do something-different TODAY by aiming your body to the right. And to show you what you should and shouldn’t be doing today, I have some pictures below (and on the next page) showing the differences between a slice and a hook alignment. Please notice the alignment differences closely because it’s very important to your success with this system.

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Hook Alignment

Slice Alignment

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So to produce a draw/hook you should make sure that all parts of your body are aimed to the right. And it’s very important that ALL parts of your body are aimed to the right because some golfers think they are doing this, however upon closer inspection they find that their shoulders are actually open while the feet are closed. This conflict in setup positions creates great inconsistencies in the swing.

Ok, below is a summary of what you should be doing today…

Day 4 Tasks

Your task today is to practice setting up to a shot with all the parts of your body, i.e. your feet, knees, hips, shoulders pointing to the right of your target. Also your clubface should be pointing in the same direction as your body, i.e. to the right. And once again, remember to exaggerate this “closed” alignment, as this is one of the most important aspects of the setup that will determine your ability to draw the ball consistently by the end of this system. Here's a picture that shows you exactly what you need to practice today for at least 15 minutes… Also remember to incorporate the following setup points into your final setup as well…

Align the feet, knees, hips, shoulders and clubface all to the right.

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• Athletic posture position with some flex in your right arm so that

you can see some of your left arm from behind (down the line). Also give yourself slightly more room between the butt end of your club and your body, and check this by doing the swinging arm exercise.

• Position the ball no further forward than the middle of your stance.

• Square your left foot up.

• Make sure you can see at least 3-4 knuckles of your left hand as well as doing all the other grip pointers that were mentioned on Day 1.

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Day 5 - The Complete Setup That Will Help You To Produce A Draw/Hook Consistently! (Right Hander) Today you're going to be putting all that you've learnt so far into a complete setup. And you should practice this complete setup every day from now until Day 16. Also, if you're playing during the next 11 days I suggest that you use this exaggerated setup for all long shots. And don't worry about your swing during this time, as it will change naturally as a result of this new setup and the drills you're going to be doing.

Day 5 Tasks

Here's a few pictures and instructions that will explain exactly what you must have in your setup to help promote a draw/hook.

Position the ball no further forward than the middle of your stance. You should also turn your left foot in so it’s pretty square, and remember to grip the club so you can see at least 3-4 knuckles on your left hand. Also make sure your grip has the elements outlined on the next page.

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The Grip Needed To Help Promote A Draw/Hook

• Position the shaft so that it’s running across the top joint of your forefinger and under the heel of your palm of your left hand. Note: the more you place your left-hand grip in the fingers the more it will encourage a draw.

• Your thumb of your left hand should be placed just to the right side of the front of the grip.

• Once you’ve completed your left-hand grip you should be able to see at

least 3 to 4 knuckles when you look down. The more knuckles you can see, the quicker you’ll be hooking/drawing the ball.

• Check your grips to make sure they are not too fat, and remember the

thinner your grips the more they’ll help to promote a draw/hook.

• When joining your right hand to your left hand use either the overlapping or ten-finger grip, as these grips will help to promote a draw/hook more than an interlocking grip will.

• When gripping the club with your right hand make sure that you grip the

club entirely in the fingers, and the more in the fingers you place the club the more this will encourage a draw/hook.

• Also make sure that the V’s of both hands are pointing along the same

parallel lines in your completed grip.

Get yourself into a good posture position by following the simple exercise on the next page. Also flex your right arm so you can see some of your left arm from down the line. Give yourself some more room between the butt end of the club and your body and test this by doing the elephant exercise (Day 3). And finally, align the feet, knees, hips, shoulders and clubface all to the right.

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The Ball & Feet Positioning Needed To Promote A Draw/Hook

• During the first 16 days of this system position the ball no further forward than the middle of your stance with all clubs.

• Turn your left foot in so it’s square.

The Posture Needed To Promote A Draw/Hook

1. Stand up straight with your feet about shoulder width apart, then 2. Take the straightness out of your knees, then

3. Place a club along your spine, and then

4. Bend forward making sure that your spine remains straight, and here is a

very, very important point when doing this exercise. You want your backside to move back when doing this as it creates a balanced posture position. Also, you want your weight to be on the balls of your feet when setup, and it won’t be unless you follow the steps I’ve suggested. And finally…

5. Once you’ve bent over (by moving the backside back and keeping the back

straight) move your left hip slightly towards your target. Doing this automatically places your head behind the ball, which is just what you want.

After completing this exercise make sure you have some flex in your right

arm so you can see some of your left arm from behind (down the line view). Also give yourself slightly more room between the butt end of your club and your body, and check this by doing the swinging arm (elephant exercise – Day 3) exercise.

The Alignment Needed To Promote A Draw/Hook

• Align the feet, knees, hips, shoulders and clubface all to the right. If you have followed the setup instructions over the last 4 days and you've

really exaggerated what I've suggested then you are in a perfect position to draw/hook shot after shot. With this new setup your swing would change over time to produce a draw/hook, but we want to speed up the process and that's what the drills on Days 6 thru 15 are going to do. But today practice your new exaggerated setup for at least 15 minutes, and each time after completing your setup either hit a shot or simply swing and notice the difference in your swing. Over the next 11 days please keep practicing your new exaggerated draw/hook setup as this will dramatically help to speed up the slicer-to-drawer process. The next obvious step is to work on the swing and that's exactly what we're going to start doing tomorrow.

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Day 6 - The Take-away (Right Hander) Now we're at the stage you've probably been waiting for – The Swing!

The swing is a chain reaction and the way you setup to a ball largely dictates how you will swing the club. Hopefully you've been following the instructions closely up to this point, and you are now setting up to your long shots with all the points that are outlined on Day 5. So now the next logical step is to start at the very beginning of the swing, which of course is the take-away.

Most golfers do not realize the huge impact that the take-away has on the

rest of the swing. Quite simply without a good, solid and consistent take-away you'll never play to your potential. Most golfers that slice the ball do so because they take the club too far on the inside at the start of the backswing, and they do so because they've heard that the golf ball must be struck from the inside to produce a draw. Although it's true that a golf ball must be struck from the inside to produce a draw, it's also true that many golfers that take the club too much on the inside at the start of the backswing tend to come over the top on the downswing which of course helps to produce a slice. The backswing should be taken straight back for the first 6 inches or so and then it should move naturally around to the inside. Another misconception a lot of golfers make when taking the club away is that they try to keep the clubface closed during the backswing, and they do this thinking that it will help the clubface to stay closed through the ball. Unfortunately, doing this means that you're more likely to open the clubface up through impact! Why? Because we react instinctively to the alignment of the clubface and if you swing back with a very closed clubface you will automatically attempt to open the clubface through impact to compensate. So, to consistently draw the ball you have to do the opposite of what you normally do, and you should've already started this process by lining up your clubface to the right of where you want the ball to finish.

From this setup position (clubface pointing to the right of your final target because you want the ball to start to the right), you should feel as though you are opening up the clubface on the backswing. Naturally by doing this you will automatically close the clubface on the downswing, which will definitely help you to produce a draw/hook.

Now the take-away should really be named the move-away because “take-

away” gives connotations of “snatching”, and you definitely don't want to do that. The club should be moved away with your big muscles, and here's how to do it.

When you setup to any long shot, your arms and shoulders will form a triangle. Lots of golfers start the backswing with the hands only and

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instantly lose this setup relationship. Doing this causes many inconsistencies in the swing and this translates into inconsistent results, and most of the time a slice.

When moving the club away from the ball you should do so with the arms and shoulders as a unit so that the triangle formed at address remains intact for the first 3 feet or so of the backswing.

Below and on the next page are some pictures that will show you exactly

what I mean….

Notice the triangle that is formed at address. This triangle should stay intact for the first 3-4 feet of the backswing.

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You can clearly see from these pictures above that the triangle formed at

the address position remains as the club is moved away for the first 3-4 feet of the backswing. What is also very important for you to notice is that the clubface appears open, but in reality the clubface has not been manipulated by the hands at all. The clubface opens naturally as the club is moved back with the turning motion of the shoulders and arms. This is very important.

To help you to keep the triangle intact in your backswing I have three very simple exercises that you can work on to both improve your take-away and to check to see that you're doing it properly.

In this first drill I want you to experience the feeling of turning to start your

backswing rather than using your hands and here's what you should do…

See how the triangle has stayed intact from the start of the swing to the first 3-4 feet. Also note that the hands have not changed much from the address position, but that the clubface appears to be open. This clubface is actually neutral and this is achieved by starting the backswing with the shoulders and arms while the hands remain passive.

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Drill 1: Setup to a ball as normal and then slide the club up through your hands

and place the butt end of the club in your navel. Once you've achieved this position simply turn your navel to start the backswing and keep turning so the club goes about 3-4 feet. Do this over and over again. This is how you should start your backswing (see the pictures below that show you what you need to do in more detail).

Setup Club In Navel Turn Navel To Start Backswing

You'll notice that when you do this exercise your clubface appears to open up on your backswing but you know that you haven't manipulated it at all so it is therefore in a neutral position. Once you're used to this new take-away move, the next step is to integrate it into your real backswing. There are a couple of ways that you can check to see if you are doing this right, and here they are…

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Drill 2: Place a club behind your left foot on an angle so it goes through to the

front of your right foot. Incidentally, when doing this exercise do it with a square stance (all parts of your body aligned parallel left to the target) and not a closed stance (all parts of your body aligned to the right of the target) like I suggest on Day 5.

Once you're setup like the golfer is demonstrating above, the next step is to move the club away using your big muscles. Do this until your hands are over your right foot and then stop your take-away. Now look down on your club and notice whether or not the club is pointing along the same parallel lines as the club on the ground. If you’ve taken the club away with the big muscles, the two clubs should be parallel.

When doing this exercise don't make the mistake of thinking that the club

has to appear directly over the club on the ground, but instead it should appear along the same parallel lines and quite a bit on the inside of the club on the ground. If your club is not along the same parallel lines at this point in the take-away then keep practicing the previous exercise and check your progress by doing this exercise. It's critically important that you do not move on until you can successfully do this exercise.

Place a club running from the back of your left foot through to the front of your right foot as this picture demonstrates.

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After completing this exercise successfully move onto the final exercise for

today….

Move the club away until this point in your backswing and check that your club is pointing along the same parallel lines as the club on the ground.

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Drill 3: To check that you've taken the club away well with the clubface opening naturally, do the following exercise. Address a ball as normal, and once again do this exercise with your feet square to the target (all parts of your body aligned parallel left of your target). Once setup similar to picture 1 below, simply move the club back using your big muscles and stop when your hands are over your back foot (see picture 2 on the next page).

2.

Setup in a normal type of setup. Then from this position start your backswing with the big muscles and stop when your hands are over your right foot.

1.

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From this stationary position simply move your entire body (yes, feet as

well!) so you're facing the clubhead. This will put you in a similar position as if you were setting up to a shot.

While doing this keep your shoulders, arms, wrists and club in

exactly the same position as they were in when you stopped your backswing (see picture 3).

Now lower the club to the ground and notice if your clubface is open,

square or closed. If you've taken the club away correctly with your big muscles you should be in exactly the same setup position as you were to start with (see picture 4) only turned well to the right.

2.

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4.

3.

3. Turn to face the club and then…

4. Lower the club to the ground. If the take-away has been correct then you should be in exactly the same setup position as you were at address (see picture 1), only turned well to the right (see picture 4).

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If at the completion of this exercise the clubface is either open or closed then that means you've manipulated the club with your hands during your take-away. So keep practicing the first drill today and then check how you're going by doing drills/exercises 2 and 3.

So here are your tasks for today…

Day 6 Tasks

1. Do the ‘club in the naval’ drill (Drill 1). Keep repeating this exercise until it's second nature to start the backswing with the big muscles rather than with the hands.

2. Position the club between the feet to check your take-away position and

keep practicing this drill until you can move the club away so it's parallel with the club on the ground when your hands are over your right foot (Drill 2).

3. Move the club away with your big muscles to start the swing and when

your hands are over your right foot then move to face the club, lower the club and you should be in the same position that you were in to start with, i.e. with the clubface square etc. (Drill 3).

After you've grooved a new take-away movement, I suggest you practice it

many, many times until it’s well and truly a habit, and even then keep practicing it.

Also after doing your 15 minutes or more of drills, hit a few balls if you can, or have a few swings not worrying about your swing but exaggerate your setup (see Day 5) and let your swing follow along for the ride. And remember to have this image in your mind as you swing...

Swing Path

Target

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Day 7 - Club Parallel Position (Right Hander) Moving on from yesterday’s take-away position we're now going to check a very important position in the backswing. And this position is when the club is parallel with the ground just into the backswing. Here is a picture to show you the position I'm talking about. To get to this point in the swing, just keep moving the clubhead beyond the point you got to yesterday (hands over your right foot) until the club reaches horizontal. And the most important aspect of this position is that the toe of the clubface is pointing directly up towards the sky. Here is today's task that will help you to get your club into a similar position to the one the golfer is demonstrating above.

Day 7 Tasks Practice this drill for at least 15 minutes. Place an umbrella or something similar about 3 feet behind your right foot on the same line as your toes (align all parts of your body parallel left of your final target for this exercise). Now setup to a ball and move the club away as explained on Day 6, but continue the swing until the club is parallel with the ground and then stop your swing and check the clubface positioning.

The club is parallel with the ground and the toe of the club is pointing straight up in the air. This is very, very important.

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This golfer has the clubface a bit too closed for my liking. A fraction closed is OK but this is a bit too much closed. When you do this exercise make sure the clubface is vertical at this point in the backswing.

The club should not hit the umbrella at this point, and if it does it means you're moving the club back too flat (or too much on the inside).

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The toe of your club at this point in the backswing should be vertical. If

the toe of your clubface is pointing more towards the ground, then that means it's closed and if the clubface is pointing more towards the sky then that indicates it's open.

Ideally you want your clubface to be square (i.e. pointing straight up and

down), but if anything, it is better to have it slightly open (pointing more towards the sky). The reason I say open is because if you have the clubface open on the backswing then you are more likely to close it on the downswing, which will naturally help to produce a draw/hook.

Now if you’re doing this drill and you move the club into the umbrella

before you reach the parallel club position, that indicates your backswing was too flat (too much on the inside) and this will definitely encourage a slice rather than a draw/hook.

Also, when your club is parallel with the ground on the backswing it should

be pointing along your toe line, because what I'm trying to get you to achieve is an upright backswing and a slightly flatter downswing that attacks the ball from the inside. To achieve this you must have the club at least pointing along your toe line when it's parallel with the ground.

So, keep repeating your take-away until the club is in the parallel position.

And do today’s drill for at least 15 minutes. Then after doing this drill hit a few balls or have a few swings not worrying about your swing, but simply exaggerate your setup (see Day 5) and let your swing flow. And remember to have this image in your mind as you swing...

Swing Path

Target

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Day 8 - The Backswing Turn With A Solid Back Leg (Right Hander) I said at the end of yesterday that I'm trying to get you to have a more upright backswing and a slightly flatter downswing, and the reason I'm suggesting this is because most slicers tend to have a flat backswing and a steeper downswing, which of course produces a slice.

To help create a more upright backswing we need to now focus on your shoulder turn because this largely governs the plane of your backswing. So today I'm going to give you an exercise that will get your shoulders turning on a more upright plane, and I'll get you to combine this drill with another one that will teach you how to keep your right leg in the same position that it was at address. Most golfers destroy any possibility of real power and consistency in the swing by straightening the right leg on the backswing. Your right leg should remain in exactly the same position that it was at address during the entire backswing. So with these two points in mind here's the tasks for you today.

Day 8 Tasks Setup to a ball making sure that you do so with good posture, (see Day 3) and then place a golf ball under the outside of your right foot. Doing this forces your weight to be concentrated on the inside of your right leg at address and it will be forced to stay there throughout this drill. This is exactly what should happen during your backswing. You should never let any of your weight move to the outside of your right foot, NEVER! Now place the club across your back as the pictures on the next page demonstrate….

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1. 2.

Once setup, simply move your shoulders in a similar fashion to that of a

swing. But when doing this, exaggerate the steepness of your shoulder plane by trying to point the club to your ball at the completion of your backswing. Also keep your right leg in exactly the same position as it was at address, with the weight centered on the inside of your right leg.

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Once you've done this drill for at least 10 minutes, then swing a club as normal but keep the ball underneath the outside of your right foot. Swing concentrating on keeping your right leg in the same position as it was at address and moving your shoulders on a steeper plane.

Keep practicing these drills so you do at least 15 minutes of exercises and

then hit a few balls or have a few swings not worrying about your swing mechanics, but exaggerate your setup (see Day 5). Let your swing be guided by your setup and the drills you've been doing so far.

When swinging with the ball underneath your right foot concentrate on keeping the weight on the inside of your right leg, and also keep the right leg in the same position that it was at address. Lastly exaggerate the steepness of your shoulder turn by attempting to point your left shoulder at the ball while keeping your head still.

When doing this turning of your shoulders try to exaggerate the steepness of your shoulder turn by attempting to point the club at the ball on your backswing. Also make sure your weight is concentrated on the inside of your right leg during your entire backswing, while ensuring your right leg stays in the same position as it was at address.

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Day 9 - Upright Backswing Drill (Right Hander) Today we're going to be really working on the uprightness of your backswing. As I've already said, we want you to have a more upright backswing and a flatter downswing. But don't worry about your downswing yet, as the flatness will come naturally as a result of the drills I give you.

Day 9 Tasks To do today's drill grab a 7 iron stand next to a wall so that your bottom just touches it, as the golfer is demonstrating below in the picture… 1. Now swing back how you normally would, and if you hit the wall on your backswing then you know your swing is too flat. If you don't hit the wall with your first swing keep following these instructions because they are very important. A lot of people, when they find out they’re swinging too flat, tend to try to fix this problem by simply picking the club up from the start of the backswing. But that leads to even more problems than just flat swinging does. I've already gone over the first few stages of the backswing, but I want to reiterate that the backswing is simply a turn-away, a one-piece movement. And

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the picture below shows you clearly the wide arc I've created from a "slow and low" start to the backswing. And it also shows you the toe of the clubface pointing straight up towards the sky, which again is a very important part of the backswing that you must try to emulate.

Once you can get to the halfway point in your backswing and you’re in a similar position to what is being demonstrated on the next page, then the next step is crucial in creating an upright backswing. And it’s at this point that a lot of slicers keep going around their bodies instead of taking the club up on a more upright arc.

So to create a more upright backswing, simply hinge the wrists up, as this

golfer is demonstrating in the picture on the next page. This will make the club appear quite vertical and that’s good. If you’ve been swinging flatly for a long time this may feel quite strange. But the stranger it feels the better, and I’ll explain why in a minute.

Notice the wide arc created and the toe of the clubface pointing towards the sky. You must try to emulate these things in your

own backswing.

Notice the wide arc created and the toe of the clubface pointing towards the sky. You must try to emulate these things in your own backswing.

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Once in a position similar to picture above the next step is to continue the backswing by turning the shoulders and arms. This will get your arms into a very upright position as is demonstrated over the page. And as I said a second ago, the stranger this feels the better and I want to now explain why.

If you’ve been swinging flatly for a good period of time then that swing will be very grooved. And the quickest and easiest way to get yourself out of this rut is to do the opposite extreme. What this means is that if you think you’re swinging uprightly you’re probably not, so exaggerate more. “Feel” and “reality” are generally two completely different things. What you think you’re doing and what you’re actually doing will often be worlds apart.

For example, when I’ve noticed people swinging flatly I get them to

exaggerate an upright backswing - so they swing with what feels like an upright backswing to them but it will only be about 1 inch more upright. I’m serious! That’s how different ‘feel’ and ‘reality’ are. So remember, to start with exaggerate your backswing a lot and keep repeating this.

Notice how the wrists are hinging up and how the club is quite vertical. Also see how the shoulders are moving on a steep angle. This is where yesterday's drill will help you.

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Once you can swing back without hitting the wall with your 7-iron, then

change to your 5-iron a week or so later, then a hybrid/fairway wood. Keep doing this until you reach your driver. And from now on I want you to do this drill everyday for the rest of this system.

Why? Because the rest of the system is going to be basically programming you to

swing from the inside, and doing this for some people can cause their backswing to become too flat. And as you know, that helps to create a slice. So we don't want that do we? What we want is an upright backswing and a flatter downswing. Doing this drill everyday combined with the rest of the drills I get you to do will help you to achieve this.

So practice this wall drill for at least 15 minutes today and then hit a few balls or have a few swings not worrying about your swing, but exaggerate your setup (see Day 5) and swing without worrying about your mechanics. That's all for today, I'll see you tomorrow…

Once you've reached the top of your swing against a wall you must make sure that your right leg still has the same flex that was present at address. Also make sure the shoulders are on a steep plane and your hands are high.

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Day 10 - The Start Of The Downswing (Right Hander)

I've said this a number of times, but it's so important that I'll say it again: your backswing plane should be more upright than your downswing plane.

Unfortunately most golfers swing plane is the exact opposite of this and that's called swinging over the top.

Maybe you've heard of it!

Swinging over the top is one of the biggest causes of the ball starting to the left and generally resulting in a slice or a pull.

Now, we've started to cure this over the top problem by me giving you the upright backswing drill (see Day 9). But now we need to work on flattening your downswing plane. But before I give you a drill that will help you to do that I have a word of warning.

The drill that I'm going to give you today is going to feel so strange that you may not want to do it. But please do it because the strange feeling you get from doing this drill is a good thing as it's the total opposite of what you have probably been doing for your entire golf career thus far.

Plus the results of repeatedly doing today's drill are well worth any temporary feeling of uncomfortableness.

And like the upright backswing drill I gave you on Day 9 I'm also going to get you to do today's drill every day from now on. Plus, like the drill on Day 9 I don't want you to try and do what I'm suggesting in this drill when you're just swinging normally.

The purpose of this drill is simply to give you the feeling of swinging flatter on the downswing than you're swinging back. So I want you to do this drill everyday from now on (for only 5 minutes, apart from today) and then when you're swinging normally just do so without thinking of anything mechanical, like the plane of your swing.

Now before I show you the exercise that will help you to fix an over the top problem for good I want to first explain why most golfers swing over the top, and second I want to show you what you should be trying to achieve when you swing.

So first, the reason most golfers do this disastrous over the top move is because for some reason they swing back on a too flat plane. And then what happens from such a position is the club naturally does the opposite on the downswing, which is to come down too steep.

Now what you should be trying to do when swinging a golf club is to swing

the club back so the shaft is slightly more upright than the original shaft plane line at the halfway point in your backswing.

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Then on the downswing you want the clubshaft to be close to being along the same parallel lines as the original shaft line at this halfway point in the downswing. Also the club should be slightly above and outside the original shaft line as is shown in the pictures below.

So hopefully this has given you a clear idea as to what you should be trying

to do in your swing as far as the swing plane is concerned. And it's very important that you have this clear understanding. With that, here is today's task...

Backswing Plane - Steeper

Downswing Plane -

Shallower

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Day 10 Tasks

OK, to fix an over the top swing you are going to have to practice and practice the exact opposite of what you've been doing for such a long time. And when you practice this you'll have to really exaggerate the exact opposite to such an extreme that it will feel very silly. But only by doing this will you really fix the problem once and for all. And if you don't feel strange when you're doing this exercise then you're not exaggerating it enough.

So grab a club and do the following.

Setup to an imaginary ball and then start your swing back normally in a one-piece movement for about the first foot or so of your backswing. But from then on move the shaft of the club on a very, very exaggerated upright plane as the pictures that follow clearly demonstrate and then continue to the top of your backswing.

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After completing your backswing I then want you to feel as though the club is doing a big loop and coming way down behind you on a very flat plane as the picture below clearly demonstrate.

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And then swing through but when you do so you should feel as though the club is going out to the right and then follow-through.

Again, doing this drill will feel very, very strange indeed. But remember, that's good. And you should do this very, very exaggerated loop swing every day until the end of this system and beyond. In fact, I suggest you do this exercise for at least 30 days.

Then after this 30 day period you should have a slightly upright swing plane on the backswing and a flatter swing plane on the downswing which will result in consistent powerful draws.

Finally, I want to explain that when you're doing this drill you must feel like you are swinging very much from the inside and then out to the right. Doing these things will feel very unnatural at first but with practice they'll become a habit and you'll improve your ability to hit consistent draws dramatically.

So here's a summary of what you should do today....

• Practice this loop drill for at least 15 minutes today • Upright backswing drill for at least 5 minutes (see Day 9) • A few minutes of some relaxed swings with your exaggerated setup (see

Day 5) without worrying about doing anything mechanical but have the image in your mind of swinging out to the right...

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OK, that's it for today, I'll see you back here tomorrow.

Swing Path

Target

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Day 11 - The Release…Part 1 (Right Hander) Today I have three drills for you. They are really easy to do and the first one is so easy you can even do it sitting down! But first, you need to understand that we're now moving into the part of the swing when you should be releasing the club through impact. And this is one of the most critical aspects of the swing that you must perform correctly to ever consistently draw a ball. Today's drills will teach you how to use your hands properly during the swing, and here's what you should do.

Day 11 Tasks

Sit down somewhere where you can swing a club safely on a horizontal plane and then do exactly that. Hold a club out in front of you and then swing like a baseball/softball player back and forth and of course you won't be able to use your legs which is the object of this exercise, because if you can't use your legs then of course you've got to use your arms.

Drill 1 - Sitting Baseball/Softball Drill

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Do this drill for at least 5 minutes today and remember it is very important when doing the following exercises that you also keep doing the Upright Backswing Drill (see Day 9) and the Loop Drill (see Day 10) for a few minutes after your initial drill.

Next up is another really simple drill. All it involves is hitting balls or swinging if you can't hit any balls, with your feet together. That's it, simple eh?

The reason you're doing this drill is because it teaches your hands to release through impact, and it does this because obviously with your feet together your body is restricted in the swing so therefore your hands have to take over. Another great benefit of doing this drill is that you will gain greater balance because you won't be able to swing too hard. So here’s what you should do.

Grab an 8 or 9 iron and setup to a ball with your feet together. And it's a good idea to tee up a ball quite high when doing this exercise as it promotes a flatter downswing. So once you’re setup to your teed up ball simply swing about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way back and then swing through with about the same length follow through.

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Drill 2 - Feet Together Drill

Do this drill for at least 5 minutes today, and remember it is very important

that you also keep doing the Upright Backswing Drill (see Day 9) and the Loop Drill (see Day 10) for a few minutes after this drill.

Next up we have another easy drill but you have to do this one standing

up. That's right, no sitting down for this one. Basically what you're doing today is the same as what you did in the first drill today, but this time you're standing up and you can and should use your legs when you do your baseball/softball swings. And because you're doing this swing on such a flat swing plane, you need to do the upright backswing drill as well (see Day 9), after completing this exercise. So here's exactly what you need to do for this…

Simply hold a club out in front of you and then swing like a baseball/softball player back and forth, and this time use your legs as you are swinging. Here's some pictures to illustrate this drill in detail.

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Drill 3 - Standing Baseball/Softball Drill

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Do this drill for at least 5 minutes today, and remember it is very important when doing this drill that you keep doing the Day 9 drill. I know I keep going on about doing this but it's very important because as I've already said to you, what we want is an upright backswing and a flatter more inside out downswing, which will produce a draw. So here's a summary of what you should do today…

• Sitting baseball/softball drill for at least 5 minutes • Feet together drill for at least 5 minutes • Standing baseball/softball drill for at least 5 minutes • Upright backswing drill for at least 5 minutes (see Day 9) • The Loop Drill for at least 5 minutes (see Day 10) • A few minutes of relaxed swinging with the exaggerated setup explained on

Day 5

Tomorrow we're going to carry on with the release part of the swing as it's very, very important in determining whether or not you're going to be drawing the ball at the end of all of this. So see you back here tomorrow.

And remember if you can't get to hit a ball simply do today’s drills without a ball, see you tomorrow.

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Day 12 - The Release…Part 2 (Right Hander) The first drill today is once again really, really simple as all you have to do is hit golf balls with your normal swing, BUT there is one big difference. Read on to find out what it is…

Day 12 Tasks The difference with this drill and your normal swing is that you hit golf balls

from a sidehill lie. And the lie must be one where the ball is above your feet. Doing this naturally produces a more rounded downswing as well as helping you to release the club automatically. When doing this drill don't try to do anything mechanical, just swing naturally and the slope will guide and shape your swing. Today is another important day when you must combine this drill with the upright backswing drill (see Day 9) and the loop drill (see Day 10), as today's drill will not only help to flatten your downswing but it will also flatten your backswing. But by doing the upright backswing drill and the loop drill after the sidehill lie drill you’ll be reinforcing what we want as the end result…a steeper backswing plane than the downswing plane. So here's some pictures of the first drill today.

Drill 1 - Sidehill Lie Drill

To do this drill just find a side hill lie where the ball is well above your feet

and hit balls or simply swing from this lie for 10 - 15 minutes. And again, here’s another reminder - it’s very important when practicing this drill to afterwards do the Day 9 and Day 10 drills to keep your new upright backswing going.

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Now you may find it difficult to find a lie where you can practice this drill I have just given you. So here’s another one you can do instead (or as well if you’re keen).

Grab your 5-iron and tee up a ball quite high. Now grip your club with your

hands split apart on the grip. Then place the clubhead on the ground about 2-3 feet behind the ball, but with the clubhead well on the inside of the target line (see the picture). From this start position, without moving the club backwards, simply sweep through and hit the ball finishing your swing about halfway into your follow through making sure that your right hand is above the left. (see pictures on the next page).

Drill 2 - Split Handed Drill

From this position sweep back into the ball and finish with your right hand above the left…

Grip the club with a split hand grip and place your clubhead on the ground about 2-3 feet behind the ball and well on the inside of the ball to target line.

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This drill is great as it allows you to experience the sensation of swinging from the correct inside-to-outside swing path. Plus it also gives you the feeling of good forearm rotation and extension through impact. So here's what you should practice today.

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• Sidehill Lie Drill (with the ball well above your feet) 10 – 15 minutes • Split handed drill for at least 15 minutes if you can’t do the sidehill lie drill • Upright backswing drill for at least 5 minutes (see Day 9) • The Loop Drill for at least 5 minutes (see Day 10) • A few minutes of relaxed swinging with the exaggerated setup explained on

Day 5 and have the image in your mind of swinging out to the right...

Tomorrow is the final series in the “release” part of this system, so have

fun practicing today and I’ll see you back here tomorrow.

Swing Path

Target

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Day 13 - The Release…Part 3 (Right Hander) Today is the final day of working on the release. And today's drill is very simple, here's what you should do…

Day 13 Tasks Get out your 8-iron and tee up a ball as normal. Now setup to this ball as

if you're going to hit a straight shot. Don't exaggerate your setup for this drill. From your setup position simply swing back so your club is close to parallel with the ground, as is shown below, and STOP.

Wrists Touching Drill

1. Now, check that your club is in a similar position to the one above, and

most importantly check to see that the toe of your club is pointing straight up to the sky -- This Is Very Important! If your swing at this point is not the same or similar as to what is shown above then repeat your take-away until you get into or close to this position. And don't continue the drill until you can do so. Once you're in the instructed position, swing forward through the ball and stop when your follow-through is a bit further than your backswing (see picture on the next page). And when swinging your goal is to touch the insides of

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your wrists together on your follow-through. To achieve this you’ll have to really exaggerate the rolling of your hands through impact. 2.

Do this drill for at least 15 minutes today and make sure that on each swing the toe of the club is pointing straight up when the club is parallel with the ground (see picture 1), and on the follow-through the insides of your wrists touch each other (see picture 2). Now here's a summary of what you should do today…

• Wrists touching drill for at least 15 minutes • Upright backswing drill for at least 15 minutes (see Day 9) • The Loop Drill for at least 5 minutes (see Day 10) • A few minutes of relaxed swinging with the exaggerated setup explained on

Day 5

If you can't get to hit any balls today then do this drill anyway without hitting a ball. Although it's preferable that you do today's drill hitting a ball, if you can’t then simply make do with simply going through the actions and I'll catch you back here tomorrow when we'll start to work on your follow-through.

Hit the ball and touch the insides of your wrists together on the follow-through. Note: You'll only be able to do this if you really roll your wrists a lot during the downswing and follow-through, so exaggerate.

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Day 14 - Right Shoulder Moving Under, Through And Up On The Follow-Through (Right Hander) We've done a lot of work so far on the release of the club. But these drills would be almost totally ineffective if you don't work your right shoulder under, through and up on the follow-through.

One tell tale sign of assessing whether a golfer slices the ball or not can be done by watching the follow-through. Even without seeing the flight of the ball if a golfer finishes with their right shoulder higher than their left then 99.9 times out of a 100 a slice will be the result. Below are some pictures that show you what your right shoulder should be doing in the follow-through.

So today what we're going to be working on is this “right-shoulder-under”

move because it is very, very important in creating a consistent, powerful draw. This is what I want you to do today...

Day 14 Tasks Setup to a shot as normal and then place your club in front of your ball.

Then put your left hand on top of the shaft (see picture over the page). Once you're in this position simply swing your right hand back as if you were hitting a shot.

Notice the right shoulder moving under and finishing lower than the left.

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Now from this top of the swing position simply swing your right arm down and under, but keep the arm on top of the shaft in pretty much the same position as it was to start with (see picture on the next page). Keep swinging your right arm under and up so it finishes under your left under arm. Also make sure your thumb on your right hand is pointing straight up at the end of your follow-through.

Drill 1 - Right Shoulder Under Drill

2.

Place your clubhead level with your ball. Then place your left hand on top of the shaft to keep it from falling.

Now swing your right hand back as if hitting a shot and then…

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Do this drill as much as possible today because it is very, very important in

your final stages towards being able to consistently draw the ball. And here’s another drill that will also get you to feel what your shoulders should be doing on both the backswing and follow-through. This drill is an extension of the drill I got you to do on Day 8, so here's what you should.

Grab a club and place it across your back, standing in a normal posture position that you would use to hit a shot (see pictures on the next page). Once setup simply move your shoulders in a similar fashion as you do when you swing, but exaggerate the steepness of your shoulder plane by trying to point the club to a place where the ball would be (see pictures on the next page).

From the top of your backswing position start your downswing with your

left knee so that you have the separation between your knees (see picture on the next page). You can also do this drill with a ball under the outside of your right foot as this will further help you to feel the weight moving to the inside of your right foot on your backswing, rather than the outside.

Swing your right arm down and under, keeping the left arm in pretty much the same position that it was at address.

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Drill 2 - Club On Shoulder Drill

Place a club across your back and stand in a posture position similar to what you’d use to hit a golf shot. Now start your backswing and try to turn your shoulders on an upright plane by attempting to point the club at a place where a ball would be. Once you’ve completed your backswing then start your downswing by separating your left knee from your right knee. When completing the follow-through exaggerate the steepness of your shoulder turn by trying to point the club at the place where a ball would be.

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Also, when turning your shoulders on the downswing make sure that your head at impact is behind the place where a ball would be. This is very important. Then as you carry on into your follow-through exaggerate the steepness of your shoulder plane by trying to point the club at the place where a ball would be.

So practice this back and forth motion for at least 10 minutes today, and

once again really exaggerate the steepness of your shoulder plane. Also remember to keep your head behind the impact position in your swing then let your head move forward after this point. This is very important. Here's a summary of what you should do today…

• Right shoulder under drill for at least 5 - 10 minutes • Club on shoulder drill for at least 5 – 10 minutes • Upright backswing drill for at least 5 minutes (see Day 9) • The Loop Drill for at least 5 minutes (see Day 10) • A few minutes of relaxed swinging with the exaggerated setup explained on

Day 5

So that's it for today! I'll see you back here tomorrow for the next drill - and by the way, we're getting very close to the end now so keep going, you're almost there!

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Day 15 - Striking The Ball From The Inside (Right Hander) Today is the final day of drills and today's task will be the easiest one you've done so far. The reason I say this is because all you have to do is hit balls with just a few modifications.

Now, everyday up until this point you should've been exaggerating your setup (see Day 5) to help you naturally produce a draw/hook. Well today I want you to do this setup combined with another drill which I'll explain in a minute. But first I want to refresh your memory on the setup required to help produce a draw/hook. So here's a summary of all the different elements that should be present in your setup for today's drill….

The Grip Needed To Help Promote A Draw/hook

• Position the shaft so that it’s running across the top joint of your forefinger and under the heel of your palm of your left hand. Note: the more you place your left-hand grip in the fingers the more it will encourage a draw.

• Your thumb of your left hand should be put in a position just to the right side of the front of the grip.

• Once you’ve completed your left-hand grip you should be able to see at least 3 to 4 knuckles when you look down. The more knuckles you can see the quicker you’ll be drawing/hooking the ball.

• If you haven’t already done so, check your grips to make sure they are not too fat - remember the thinner your grips the more they’ll help to promote a draw/hook.

• When joining your right hand to your left-hand use either the overlapping or ten-finger grip as these will help to promote a draw/hook more than an interlocking grip will.

• When gripping the club with your right hand, make sure you grip the club entirely in the fingers and the more in the fingers you place the club the more this will encourage a draw/hook.

• Also check to make sure that the V’s of both hands are pointing along the same parallel lines of your completed grip.

Ball And Feet Positioning Needed To Promote A Draw/Hook

• Position the ball no further forward than the middle of your stance. • You should also turn your left foot in so it’s square to the line of flight.

Posture Positioning Needed To Promote A Draw/Hook

1. Stand up straight with your feet about shoulder width apart, then 2. Take the straightness out of your knees, then 3. Place a club along your spine, and then 4. Bend forward making sure that your spine remains straight and here is a

very, very important point when doing this exercise. You want your backside to move back when doing this as it creates a balanced posture

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position. Also you want your weight to be on the balls of your feet when setup. And finally…

5. Once you’ve bent over (by moving your backside back and keeping your spine straight) the next step is to move your left hip slightly towards your target. Doing this automatically places your head behind the ball at address, which is just what you want.

After completing this exercise make sure you have some flex in your right

arm so you can see some of your right arm from behind (down the line view). Also give yourself slightly more room between the butt end of your club and your body. Check this by doing the swinging arm (elephant exercise – Day 3) exercise.

Alignment Needed To Promote A Draw/Hook

• Align the feet, knees, hips, shoulders and clubface all to the right.

Day 15 Tasks OK, for today’s final drill you need to place a ball on a tee and then position

a cardboard box about an inch away from where the toe of your club will be (see the picture below). Then setup to this ball using the setup points I’ve just outlined. Note: When doing this drill use any club less than a 6-iron (i.e. 5-iron, 4-iron etc.) because the more loft on a club the harder it is to curve a ball.

Box Exercise With An Exaggerated Hook Setup

Tee up a golf ball and then place a box about 1 inch away from the toe of your club and make sure the box is pointing to the right of your final target. Then setup to the ball using the strong 3-4 knuckle grip I’ve outlined. Position the ball in the middle of your stance. Flex your right arm and also give yourself enough room between the butt end of your club and your body. Finally make sure all parts of your body and club are aligned well to the right but square to the box.

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Once you are setup similar to what is being demonstrated on the previous page then you simply have to swing! And having the box so close to the ball will encourage you to swing down from the inside, which is exactly what you need to do to hit a draw.

If you are still swinging over the top (or cutting across the ball) at all then you'll hit the box and this will give you some great feedback. And if this is you, I’ll tell you what you should do to rectify this at the end of this day.

If you have been doing all the other day’s exercises as suggested then you should definitely be hitting your shots from right-to-left. Keep doing today's exercise until 9 balls out of 10 curve from right-to-left and do not continue to the final day until you've completed this task. If you are doing today's exercise and missing the box on each swing but the ball is still not drawing/hooking then your equipment could be preventing you from achieving this, so have a look at the Day 16 to see whether this is your problem or not.

Even if you are drawing/hooking the ball when doing this exercise, come back tomorrow and see if your equipment is best suited to you and your new swing. If You Hit The Box A Lot Doing This Drill, This Information Concerns You!

By hitting the box when doing this drill, it tells us that you’re still swinging over the top (cutting across the ball). So to fix this here’s what I suggest you do.

1. Keep exaggerating your setup (see Day5) 2. Keep exaggerating your upright swing (see Day 9) 3. Keep exaggerating the loop swing (see Day 10)

Now practice the following drills a lot as they will teach you the

correct inside path.

4. Practice the Split Handed Drill (see Day 12) 5. Practice the Sidehill Lie Drill (see Day 12) 6. Practice the Right Shoulder Moving Under Drill (See Day 14) 7. Practice the Club on Shoulder Drill (See Day 14)

After practicing these drills everyday for a week or so, come back to

today’s box drill and see how you do. If after doing this you’re missing the box then continue on to the next day’s lesson. If you’re not missing the box, keep practicing the drills outlined above and try again in another week. Keep repeating this process until you do miss the box consistently.

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Day 16 - The Equipment Needed To Consistently Draw The Ball (Right Hander) On Day 1 I already talked a wee bit about the equipment that you need to draw the ball - remember I made mention that it's a lot easier to draw the ball with thinner grips than fatter ones? Now I want to elaborate on some of the other aspects of your clubs that effect the shape of shots you can hit.

After completing all the exercises on the previous 15 days, all things being equal you should be drawing and even hooking most of your shots. If you're not and you've been exaggerating and doing the exercises like I've suggested then the major reason could be the shafts in your clubs.

But before we have a look at shaft characteristics I want to clarify the

purpose of this day. The information provided for you today is not intended to make you an

expert in club specifications or club fitting, rather I want to give you the basic knowledge you need to make informed decisions if or when you change your clubs after completing this system. Shaft Flex OK, if you’ve got a mixture of makes and models of clubs then it’s a very good possibility that the shafts are also different. And by different I mean that although the shafts may all say ‘regular’ or ‘stiff’ or whatever, they may in fact be very different from each other because a “regular” shaft from one company may not be “regular” from another. You have to be especially weary of this if you slice only with one club in particular. Upon closer inspection you may find that the shaft in this one club is completely different from your other clubs, and of course the solution should be simple – change the shaft in that club to suit the other clubs. Having said that, it may not be as simple a problem to fix as it appears, and here’s why. If your clubs are not particularly suited to your swing but you make compensations, then over time your swing will suit your clubs instead of your clubs suiting your swing. You need clubs that are suited to your style of play and the most important element in achieving this is the shaft, and the most important element of the shaft is the flex because this has a huge impact on the shape of shots you can hit. You must know right here and now that the stiffer the shaft the harder it will be for you to ever draw the ball consistently.

After reading this please don’t rush out and change your shafts because

more flexible shafts could severely hurt your accuracy. What you need is a balanced shaft that encourages you to draw the ball yet still gives you the control necessary to score consistently well.

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So, how can you determine if your shaft is too stiff for your swing speed and style? Well, first of all look at the chart below and see how far you hit your average shot (on the fly) with your 5-iron and driver and if you know your swing speed also use that as a guide.

PLEASE NOTE: We’re discussing your average shot on the fly (not including roll) so it’s better to be on the conservative side, especially if you’re serious about getting rid of your slice once and for all.

Here is the Flex abbreviations for this chart:

• L: Ladies • A: Senior • R: Regular • S: Stiff • X: Extra Stiff • XX: Extra Extra Stiff

5-iron Guide Clubhead Speed (mph)

<60 65 75 85 95 105+

Avg. Distance (yards)

110 138 157 178 195 220+

Swing Tempo Slow Avg.

Slow Avg. Avg.

Fast Avg. Fast Avg. Fast Avg. Fast

Flex L L+ A A+ R R+ S S+ X X+ XX XX Note: A 5-iron speed is approximately 80% of a driver swing speed. Driver Guide Clubhead Speed (mph)

<60 75 85 95 105 115+

Avg. Distance (yards)

140 178 200 225 250 275

Swing Tempo Slow Avg.

Slow Avg.

Avg. Fast Avg. Fast Avg. Fast Avg. Fast

Flex L L+ A A+ R R+ S S+ X X+ XX XX You’ve no doubt noticed that the flexes are broken up into two segments for each category and that’s because each category has many different flex options available. For example, a regular shaft bought through one company may have 4 different shaft flex options in this category before moving up to a stiff shaft which again will probably have about 4 different shaft flex options.

These days you are not limited to just regular or stiff or whatever. There are many, many different shaft combinations to choose from. So, once you’ve chosen a group that you fall into the next obvious step is to see if the shafts in your clubs fall into this category. If you find that the shafts in your clubs are stiffer than this chart recommends then that could have very well been a large part of your slicing problem.

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What you should be looking for is a shaft that has enough “whippiness” in it to allow you to hit a controlled draw while being accurate. There are two ways to get to this happy medium. First go to your local pro-shop and try out clubs with different shaft flexes in them and then notice the results.

You will find in general that the clubs with the stiffer shafts will promote a

fade/slice and this is because they require more clubhead speed to square the clubface up at impact. The other extreme will be a shaft that is too whippy and this will (in general) promote a draw/hook. Find the shaft that produces the best shape of shot for you and then go to step two.

Get your swing and body analyzed by a professional club fitter and see what shaft they recommend for you, and then compare the shaft that you liked from the first step to their recommended shaft. If the shafts are completely different, i.e. you like a regular shaft and the club fitter is recommending a stiff shaft, it could be just a matter of different brands or it could be a combination of things in the club that has meant the club fitter recommends the stiffer shaft.

Whatever the club fitter recommends get them to justify their choices to

you and get the reasons why. Then go to another club fitter and see what they recommend and why. At the end of the day test the shaft you like from your first test and compare it to the shafts the club fitters recommend and go with the one you feel most comfortable with. To help you decide I suggest a more flexible shaft for the following three reasons.

1. The more flexible the shaft the easier it is to draw the ball. 2. The more flexible the shaft the better your feel will be on days when you

lack “feel”. 3. Also, more flexible shafts give you better distance with the only downside

being the lack of accuracy, so that’s why you have to find a happy medium. Shaft Kickpoint This aspect of the shaft doesn’t directly encourage one shape of shot or the other. But it does have an indirect effect on the shape of your shots in that by having either a low or high kickpoint this can help you to either hit your shots higher or lower. And higher shots will slice or hook less than lower shots because they have more backspin than sidespin. So here are some general guidelines in regards to the different shaft kickpoints. Having a low kickpoint in a shaft will help a golfer to get the ball up in the air more and this kickpoint is ideal for a golfer with a slower swing speed and tempo. Whereas a golfer that has a fast tempo and high clubhead speed will generally prefer and play better with a high kickpoint shaft. Shaft Torque The torque of the shaft you are using to hit a ball has a big effect on the shape of shots you hit. Torque is the amount of twisting a shaft does during the swing. All golf shafts have torque but graphite shafts have more torque than

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steel shafts do. You’ll find that most steel shafts have about 2 degrees of torque whereas graphite shafts can sometimes have less than 2 degrees and up to or more than 8 degrees. The higher the torque in a shaft the more it twists during the swing. And this twisting can help to close the clubface during the swing. So if after completing the previous 15 days successfully and you’re still hitting a slice, getting higher torque and more flexible shafts would be a good place to start in fixing this... especially with the driver. Now the torque YOU need in a shaft will be different to what another player needs. So you will have to experiment with different shaft torque’s to find out which range suites you the best. Just do so with the knowledge that anything under 3.5 degrees of torque is low and this will encourage pushes and slices for most golfers. Whereas most golfers will find that the best torque in a shaft for them is around the 4-5 degree mark or higher. Lie Angle

Another major determining factor in the shape of shot you can hit is the lie

angle of your clubs. Generally taller players require more upright lie angles and shorter players generally require flatter lie angles. If your clubs have a lie angle that is too upright it may cause you to pull-draw shots, while clubs that are too flat will promote push-fade shots.

The reason this happens is because the face of the club cannot be properly aligned with the target, and incorrect lie angles will also cause either the heel or the toe of your irons to "dig" deeper into the turf which will possibly turn the clubface and cause many other ball flight problems.

So the bottom line is to get your clubs checked out to see if they suit you and your new swing style or not. The best way of doing this is to go to qualified club fitters. But as I've already suggested, get a second opinion. And if you don't want to spend a lot of money see if your clubs can be adjusted to suit the club fitter’s recommendations.

There’s a final point I want to make is about the actual clubhead on your clubs. In general your clubhead will not affect the shape of shot you can hit, although I did read somewhere that off-set clubs do help with a slice BUT that should really be a last resort.

Here's what you should be doing today depending on your results from

yesterday’s exercise…

Day 16 Tasks

• Measure how far you hit your average 5-iron and driver (on the fly) and compare the shafts in your clubs to the shaft recommendations on page 160.

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• Try out different shaft flexes, kickpoints, torque’s and see which combinations work best for you and compare the results to the shafts in your own clubs.

• Go to a couple of professional club fitters and get their recommendations on clubs that would suit you. But tell them you want to hit draws.

• And finally if the shafts in your clubs are close to what the club fitters suggest then don't change them for at least a good month. During this period you'll have time to settle down into a good shot pattern and then go through this club fitting process again if you really want to change clubs.

• If you're slicing the ball still and the club fitters both recommend whippier shafts, then get them changed as soon as possible and redo the Day 15 exercise to see the difference. Once you can draw/hook 9 out of 10 shots then carry on to the last part of this system. With your new shafts you may have to start this system all over again this time with the right equipment.

So finally, the equipment you use (essentially the shaft and grip) has a

huge impact on the type of shot you can hit. But please don't rush into buying new clubs on my say so, because it's a

decision that you should not take lightly. And before buying any new clubs play a few rounds with them to get a real indication as to how they will perform. Quite often there is a placebo effect with new clubs and once it's worn off the golfer is stuck with a club or clubs they neither want or can use. So take your time and be certain that what you're getting will not only work for you now but also in a year's time.

Now if you've been following my instructions by exaggerating the moves

and setup I've been getting you to do you should hopefully be drawing/hooking the ball a little too much. So tomorrow what we're doing is bringing your ball flight back to a controlled, powerful draw, see you then….

BUT if you were missing the box on Day 15 and still not drawing the ball,

and you’ve now tested your clubs and found they are appropriate for you, this is what you should do….

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If You Missed The Box On Day 15, Your Equipment Is Suited To You And You're Still Not Drawing The Ball Then This Information Concerns You!

Obviously your path is coming from the inside so that’s good, but the

problem will be in the lack of release in your hands through impact (the clubface is not closed to the path at impact), so here’s what I suggest you do.

1. Keep exaggerating your setup (see Day 5) 2. Keep exaggerating your upright swing (see Day 9) 3. Keep exaggerating the loop swing (see Day 10)

Now practice the following drills a lot as they will teach you the

correct release so the clubface is closed to the path at impact.

4. Practice the Sitting Baseball/Softball Drill (see Day 11) 5. Practice the Feet Together Drill (see Day 11) 6. Practice the Standing Baseball/Softball Drill (See Day 11) 7. Practice the Sidehill Lie Drill (See Day 12) 8. Practice the Wrists Touching Drill (See Day 13)

After practicing these drills everyday for a week or so, go back to the box

exercise (see Day 15) and see how you do. If after doing this you’re missing the box and drawing the ball then continue on to the final day. If you’re missing the box and still not drawing the ball keep practicing these drills and try again in another week and keep repeating this process until you miss the box and draw the ball consistently.

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Day 17 - Adjustments For A Consistent Draw (Right Hander)

You've made it. Congratulations! You've been following along with my instructions perfectly and you are now shock, horror, hooking the ball too much. So now you need to reduce this hook to a powerful, consistent, professional draw. Well here's how to do it.

Day 17 Tasks First of all don't worry about the mechanics of your swing. The drills and

exercises I've given you should've grooved an upright backswing with a flatter downswing. With that being said at the conclusion of this system I’ll give you drills and exercises I think you should do on a regular basis to keep your draw going.

But that’s not really mechanics, rather it’s more continuing to program the

new habit you’ve created over the past 16 days. So with this "new swing” fast becoming a habit, what you must concentrate on now is your setup, as your setup largely dictates the shape of shot you are going to hit.

And if you are hooking the ball too much now, the reason generally will not

be as a result of your swing, but rather your setup. You see, I've been getting you to exaggerate a setup that will encourage a hook and so to reduce this hook all we've got to do is bring the setup back to one that will promote a draw.

So here's the setup needed to produce a consistent, powerful draw…

Grip

Your left-hand grip is crucial in determining how you are going to grip the club because your right hand should just complement the left hand. I mentioned on Day 1 that if you place your grip more in the fingers of your left hand then that will promote a draw/hook. But now if you're hooking the ball too much you need to have this left hand running almost exclusively in the palm as is pictured below.

Have the shaft running from the top joint of your forefinger to under the heel of your palm.

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Also on Day 1 when you had completed your left hand grip I suggested that you should see at least 3-4 knuckles, but now to reduce your hook to a solid draw you should adjust this grip slightly so you can only see 2-3 knuckles.

Now let’s move onto joining your right hand to your left hand. Your right

hand should lie all in the fingers, but to promote a draw rather than a hook this right hand should lay in the very top part of the fingers, but experiment with this to see what works best for you.

Here are some more pictures that show you how you should attach your

right hand to the already completed left hand. And no matter what, you should always have your right hand entirely in the fingers, but by moving it up more towards the palm you'll reduce the chances of a hook.

Notice how the right hand grip is formed entirely in the fingers.

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On the next page are a couple of pictures, which demonstrate the strong

grip I suggested at the start of this system, and I've also included a more neutral grip for you to have a look at. This neutral grip is the one I recommend you use from now on.

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Strong Grip Neutral Grip (3-4 Knuckles) (2-3 Knuckles) Ball And Feet Positioning Ben Hogan was well known for having a hook problem and one big thing he did to fix that was to weaken his grip. So if you're hooking the ball too much that's the very first thing you should do. Next... On Day 2 I said that the further back you position the ball the easier it is to draw/hook the ball and I got you to position the ball no further forward than the middle of your stance. But now to get a consistent draw you should position the ball certainly no further forward than your left heel. On the next page is a picture that shows a golfer setting up for a draw up with a 6-iron and the ball is about 2-3 inches inside the left heel.

This ball position certainly will promote a draw and it is one that you should try to emulate, as a ball position 2-3 inches behind your left heel should be a bench mark position to promote a draw, but again, experiment and find what works for you.

Now the left foot positioning is something that you have to experiment with also, but do this with the knowledge that the squarer your left foot is, the easier

Notice how the V’s of both hands are pointing along the same parallel lines, no matter how many knuckles are showing.

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it is to draw/hook the ball as this restricts your leg action and encourages your hand action.

Obviously if you are finding that you're getting too much hook spin you

should point your left foot out towards the target more as this will certainly help to reduce your hand action during the swing.

Ball And Feet Positioning To Help Produce A Draw

Posture On Day 3 I went into detail on how you can achieve a good posture position, so if you need a refresher go there now. But some finer points of the setup that help to promote a draw are as follows.

1. Move your left hip slightly towards your target because doing this means that your head will be behind the ball at address, which is where you want it to remain until just after impact.

This moving of the left hip towards your target will help you to get into a

position where your head is behind the ball at impact naturally. And it's critically important that you make this hip move a habit during your setup procedure.

For this 6-iron shot this golfer has the ball positioned 2-3 inches inside his left heel which will help to produce a solid draw. You most certainly don't want to have your ball positioned any further forward than your left heel. Also notice the squareness of his left foot. You'll have to experiment to find out what suits you. Just be aware that the more turned in your left foot is the easier it will be for you to draw/hook the ball.

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Move your left hip slightly towards your target so your head is behind the ball at the address position, because to draw the ball consistently you need to have your head behind the ball at impact and this setup procedure helps to automatically produce this.

2. As you can clearly see in this picture below, the right arm is slightly flexed at setup. Having this slight bend in your right arm is another essential setup component that is needed to hit consistent draws. To check that your setup has these characteristics simply setup in front of a

mirror as I instructed on Day 3. Once setup turn your head and look back in the mirror and if you can’t see your left arm at all in the mirror. Then you need to slightly flex your right arm so you can see just a fraction of your leading arm from down the line.

See how the right arm is slightly flexed (there is a slight bend at the elbow). You should do this in your setup as it definitely encourages a draw/hook.

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The final thing I got you to do in your setup that encourages a draw is to stand slightly further away from the ball than normal, and check this by doing the swinging arm exercise that was fully explained on Day 3.

If you're hooking the ball too much then you can experiment with

standing closer to the ball. This will force you to have a more upright swing and help you to take the club out away from you rather than too much to the inside in the backswing. Alignment The way you align yourself for shots is critical in determining the amount of sideways spin you impart on the ball. The more closed you stand, the more draw/hook spin you should get. So it makes sense then, that if you want to reduce the amount of right-to-left spin you simply have to reduce how much right all parts of your body and clubface are pointing.

Here are some pictures that clearly show you the differences in the alignment needed for a draw compared to a hook. Take a close look at these differences now…

Alignment For A Hook

For a hook align the feet, knees, hips, shoulders and clubface all well to the right of your target.

Target

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Alignment For A Draw

It is a contentious issue whether or not the clubface should be aligned at your target or to the right for a draw/hook. To be honest, there is no right or wrong answer. And although I have been getting you to align your clubface along the same lines as your body that was more for psychological reasons. The bottom line is that you must experiment and find what works best for you.

OK, that's it as far as the setup needed to hit a draw as opposed to hook is concerned. These little changes in your setup are really only minor, but they will make a big impact on the shape of shots you can and will hit. And what I suggest you do is experiment with all the suggested changes I've given you and work out what works best for you. There is no right or wrong here and results really will dictate what and how you implement what I've taught you.

Finally, at times on the golf course you will need to hit a controlled fade.

So how would you go about doing this? Well, you simply need to make small modifications to your setup and then swing as normal. Because to hit a fade you still need to swing from the inside. But you must contact the ball with a slightly open clubface (to the path).

Below and over the page is a summary of the little changes you can make

in your setup to help you naturally produce a controlled fade.

Grip: You can use either a neutral or 3-4 knuckle grip to hit a fade, but here’s a guide outlining the different grips and what shape of shot they help to promote…

Notice how all parts of this golfers body and clubface are aligned fractionally to the right of the target as opposed to the more closed alignment for the hook shot.

Target

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• Neutral Grip – With this grip it is just as easy to hit fades as it is draws.

• 3 Knuckle Grip – With this grip it is easier to hit a draw rather than a

fade, but it doesn’t have a huge influence on the shape of shot.

• 4 Knuckle Grip – With this grip it strongly favors a draw/hook. It is quite difficult to hit a fade with this grip. It will take conscious manipulation during the swing to get a fade with this grip and that isn’t good.

Ball And Feet Positioning: To encourage a fade you should position the ball off the left heel. You should also open out your left foot to help you lead into the ball with your lower body rather than your hands and arms.

Grip, Ball And Feet Positioning To Promote A Fade

Posture: For a fade you should use the same posture as I’ve outlined in this system with the only difference being possibly standing a little bit closer to the ball. Alignment: This setup component has the biggest impact over the shape of shot you can hit. So to hit a fade you simply need to align all parts of your body to the left of your final target. And the amount you open your body up to the target will largely determine the degree of left-to-right spin you put on the ball. For example, if you only need a little fade align your body slightly to the left of your final target. And if you need a big slice simply open your body up more to the left.

Have a neutral or 3 knuckle grip. Position the ball off the left heel. And turn out your left foot a fraction more than you would for a draw.

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Posture And Alignment To Promote A Fade

I will talk more about hitting a fade later in this section. But for now I still want you to focus on hitting a controlled professional draw. And so here's a summary of what you should do to reduce your hook... 1. Neutral Grip 2. Ball position 2 - 3 inches inside the left heel. 2. Experiment with standing slightly closer to the ball. 3. Align your body just slightly to the right of your final target. Now if you do all of that and you're still hooking the ball too much there is one thing, and only one thing in your swing that I want you to actively try and do in your swing. And that's when you take the club away, I want you to feel like the club is moving outside away from you body. Dustin Johnson does this a lot in his swing. Here's a couple of pictures showing this....

Stand slightly closer to the ball to help promote a fade, and align all parts of your body to the left of your target. Note: The more you align your body to the left the more left-to-right spin you will put on the ball.

Target

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So to help quite down a hook you can feel like, in the take-away, your hands are moving out away from you rather than your hands moving closer to your legs. Now the next thing you need to focus on to lessen a hook is what is going on through impact. Obviously if you're coming way inside to out, like 10 degrees and your clubface is square to the starting line of the shot then you're going to get a big duck hook. That's because there's a big difference between the path and clubface alignment. If you're hooking the ball too much, one great thing you can do is get on a trackman, flightscope machine and see what your path and clubface alignment

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numbers are. Remember, you want to have a path of about 4+ degrees. And a clubface alignment that is +2 degrees. With those numbers you will hit nice push draws. But one thing that will influence that is where on the clubface you're consistently striking the ball. Those numbers I gave you are good draw numbers and Rory McIlroy has those sort of numbers BUT he does something to minimize the draw a little bit and that's to hit the ball on the heel of the club. Ben Hogan did this as well. How do you hit the club on the heel on purpose? Well, the first thing you need is something to give you feedback on where on the clubface you're hitting the ball. An easy way to do this is to spray your driver with Dr Scholls foot spray. Then after you've hit a shot you'll quickly and easily see where the ball was hit. So do this and try and hit the ball all over the clubface. Why would I get you to do that rather than try and hit the ball more on the heel of the clubface? Simply because, the more you can control where you hit the ball on the clubface, the better you'll be at hitting one spot more consistently. It's seems counterintuitive but it works. Now let's say your clubface alignment at impact is pretty good but your swing path is too much in-to-out. The best thing you can do to straighten that out is to swing the opposite way. So on a launch monitor try and swing the exact opposite swing path as you're doing. If you're swinging 5 degrees in-to-out.... then try and swing 5 degrees out-to-in. Mix things up and try and do the exact opposite of what you're currently doing. What if you're hitting shots with too much right to left curve because you're shutting the clubface through impact too much. What should you do if that's your problem? Well, there's something very simple you can do. Simply go to a grassed driving range where you can put an object, like an umbrella (or a pool noodle on a golf shaft stuck in the ground) about 6 - 10 feet directly on the line going towards your target. Once this is setup then all you have to do is try to hit shots that start to the right of this intermediate target.

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When you're doing this, don't be concerned with your path, you're just trying to get the ball to start to the right of the target. After you can do this 10 times out of 10 then get on a launch monitor and see your numbers. Remember, you're aiming for +4 for the path and +2 for the clubface alignment at impact. Out of the center or heel of the clubface of course. :-) Carrying on from the last exercise to get the ball to start to the right of your intended target. A good way to reduce a hook is to practice hitting a slice. But you want to practice hitting a good slice. To do this, you can use the intermediate target like in the last drill and get shots to start to the left of that target and curve back to the final target. Once you can do this consistently then I think it's a good idea to mix up your practice to hit say 7 draws, that start to the right of your final target and then 1 fade that starts to the left of your final target and fades back to it. Doing this type of practice will help to keep you hitting straighter shots that don't curve so much. Finally I want to discuss something that you may struggle with. Drivers have the least loft of any club in your bag. So if you're hooking the ball too much, it will show the most affect with your driver. It's very hard to hook a wedge but quite easy to hook a driver. If your problem is hooking a driver too much here's some options you can do.

1. You can get an adjustable driver with quite high loft e.g. 11.5 degrees. Then you can adjust the loft down. Here's what a lot of people don't understand about adjustable drivers. If you adjust the loft of a driver down, it opens the clubface up. If you adjust a driver up, then it closes the clubface. So if you're hooking your driver too much, try a higher lofted adjuststable driver and put the loft down. 2. Have a look for tour issue drivers. Here's an example of a good one:

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Here's the specs of this driver head:

BRAND NEW TaylorMade M2 10.5* Driver Right Handed Club Head **The club is a tour issue model head with tour specs, the club head came directly from the TaylorMade Tour Department** The tour specs are: LIE: 59.8 Degrees, LOFT: 10.5 Degrees, FACE ANGLE: +2.2 Degrees OPEN, WEIGHT: 201.5, CT: 242 A Black TaylorMade Adjustable Adapter/Sleeve is already installed in the head LISTING IS FOR THE CLUB HEAD ONLY, this listing does NOT include a shaft/grip The club is still wrapped in factory plastic with the spec sticker sheet on the head

So this head is 2.2 degrees open to start with. Then if you put the loft down to 9.5 degrees it will be about 4 degrees open. A lot of drivers off the shelf are closed which naturally will not help golfers with a hook with their driver. All right, here's a summary of what you can do to help reduce a hook.

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Reduction Of Hook 1. Make changes to your setup to help reduce your hook:

• Neutral Grip • Ball position 2 - 3 inches inside the left heel. • Experiment with standing slightly closer to the ball. • Align your body just slightly to the right of your final target.

2. Take-away. Take your hands away from you to start the backswing so your hands move away from your body. 3. Go on a trackman and/or flightscope to see your swing path and clubface alignment numbers. Remember, you want a +4 swing path and a +2 clubface angle at impact. 4. Practice hitting shots all over the clubface on purpose. Then once you can try and hit a particular spot on purpose then try and hit off the heel to help reduce a hook. 5. Practice hitting shots that are too much with an outside-to-inside path on trackman, flighscope etc. 6. If you're starting the ball too much to the left of your target, get an alignment device (an umbrella or alignment rod) and place it in the ground about 6 - 10 feet in front of you and try to start the ball consistently to the right of this. 7. Use the alignment device in the ground to hit pull fades. 8. Get an adjustable driver with high loft and then put the loft down as much as possible. 9. Get a tour issue driver head with a clubface that is set open to start with.

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Conclusion (Right Hander)

That's it, you've finished the system. Well done! And I whole-heatedly congratulate you in completing this system. You obviously are not only someone who wants’ results, but you're prepared to put in the action needed to produce the results you're after. For that I admire you. So what do you do from this day forward?

Well, most certainly continue to work on your setup, as this will form the

foundation of your ongoing consistency in being able to produce a consistent draw. And, in particular, when working on your alignment which is critical in determining the shape of shot you’re going to hit, I suggest you put clubs down along your toe line to help you aim.

The reason I say this is because, what you think you’re doing and reality

can often be two very different things. And by putting clubs down to help you align you’ll get a good visual image of how your feet should be positioned. From this you should align the rest of your body parallel with your feet.

Right Hander

So here's a selection of drills that you should do on a regular basis to keep

your swing tuned and ready to go…

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1. Day 9 - Upright Swing Drill 2. Day 10 - The Loop Drill 3. Day 11 - Standing Baseball Drill 4. Day 14 - Club On Shoulders Drill 5. Day 15 - Hitting From The Inside Drill

Also if you find any other drills useful by all means do them as well. But I

suggest you practice the upright swing drill and the loop drill everyday and then at least one of the other drills every day, as this will give you great ongoing consistency.

I hope you have enjoyed this process as much as I have enjoyed giving it

to you. Once you've achieved the goal of hitting consistent, long draws I know your enjoyment and satisfaction will rise dramatically as you see your shots going further than they ever have before.

From time to time I'll be in contact with you to see how you are going, as

well as letting you in on other products I have which will further help you to play to your true potential. I look forward to speaking to you soon.

For Consistent Golf,

Jeff Richmond Director of Instruction Consistent Golf http://www.ConsistentGolf.com