THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL By Colonel Henry Inman & Buffalo Bill Cody

8/2/2019 THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL By Colonel Henry Inman & Buffalo Bill Cody

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THEOLDSANTAFETRAILByColonelHenryInman

THESTORYOFAGREATHIGHWAY

ByColonelHenryInman

LateAssistantQuartermaster,UnitedStatesArmy

WithaPrefacebyW.F."BUFFALOBILL"CODY

PREFACE.

Aswelookintotheopenfireforourfancies,soweareapttostudythedimpastforthewonderfulandsublime,forgetfulofthefactthatthepresentisaconstantromance,andthatthehappeningsofto-daywhichwecountoflittleimportancearesuretostartlesomebodyinthefuture,andengagethepenofthehistorian,philosopher,andpoet.

AccustomedaswearetothinkofthevaststeppesofRussiaandSiberia

asalikestrangeandboundless,andtodealwiththeunknowninteriorofAfricaasanimpenetrablemystery,welosesightofalocalityinourowncountrythatoncesurpassedalltheseinvirgingrandeur,inmajesticsolitude,andinalltheattributesofatremendouswilderness.

ThestoryoftheOldSantaFeTrail,sotruthfullyrecalledbyColonelHenryInman,ex-officeroftheoldRegularArmy,inthesepages,isamostthrillingone.Thevastareathroughwhichthefamoushighwayranisstillimperfectlyknowntomostpeopleas"TheWest";adesignationonceappropriate,buthardlyapplicablenow;forinthesedaysofeasycommunicationtherealtrailregionisnotsofarremovedfromNewYorkasBuffalowasseventyyearsago.

Atthecommencementofthe"commerceoftheprairies,"intheearlyportionofthecentury,theOldTrailwasthearenaofalmostconstantsanguinarystrugglesbetweenthewilynomadsofthedesertandthehardywhitepioneers,whoseeventfullivesmadethecivilizationofthevastinteriorregionofourcontinentpossible.Theirdaringcompelleditsdevelopment,whichhasresultedinthegenesisofgreatstatesandlargecities.TheirhardshipsgavebirthtotheAmericanhomestead;theirdeterminedwillwasthefactorofpossibleachievements,themostremarkableandimportantofmoderntimes.

WhenthefamoushighwaywasestablishedacrossthegreatplainsasalineofcommunicationtotheshoresofthebluePacific,theonlymethodoftravelwasbytheslowfreightcaravandrawnbypatientoxen,orthe

lumberingstagecoachwithitscomplementoffourorsixmules.Therewasevertobefearedanattackbythosedevilsofthedesert,theCheyennes,Comanches,andKiowas.Alongitswholeroutetheremainsofmen,animals,andthewrecksofcampsandwagons,toldastoryofsuffering,robbery,andoutragemoreimpressivethananylanguage.Nowthetouristorbusinessmanmakesthejourneyinpalacecars,andthereisnothingtoremindhimofthedangerordesolationofBorderdays;oneveryhandaretheevidencesofapowerfulandadvancedcivilization.

Itisfortunatethatoneislefttotellsomeofitsstorywhowasa


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livingactorandhadpersonalknowledgeofmanyofthethrillingscenesthatwereenactedalongthelineofthegreatroute.Hewasfamiliarwithallthefamousmen,bothwhiteandsavage,whoseliveshavemadethestoryoftheTrail,hisownsojournontheplainsandintheRockyMountainsextendingoveraperiodofnearlyfortyyears.

TheOldTrailhasmorethancommoninterestforme,andIgladlyrecordheremyindorsementofthefaithfulrecord,compiledbyabravesoldier,oldcomrade,andfriend.

W.F.Cody,"BuffaloBill."

CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTION.TheFirstEuropeanswhotraversedtheGreatHighway--AlvarNunezCabecadeVaca--HernandodeSoto,andFranciscoVasquezdeCoronado--SpanishExpeditionfromSantaFeeastwardly--EscapeoftheSoleSurvivors.

CHAPTERI.UNDERTHESPANIARDS.QuaintDescriptionsofOldSantaFe--TheFamousAdobePalace--SantaFetheOldestTownintheUnitedStates--FirstSettlement--Onate'sConquest--RevoltofthePuebloIndians--UnderPuebloRule--CrueltiesoftheVictors--TheSantaFeofTo-day--ArrivalofaCaravan--TheRailroadreachestheTown--Amusements--AFandango.

CHAPTERII.LALANDEANDPURSLEY.TheBeginningoftheSantaFeTrade--LaLandeandPursley,theFirstAmericanstocrossthePlains--Pursley'sPatriotism--CaptainEzekielWilliams--AHungryBear--AMidnightAlarm.

CHAPTERIII.EARLYTRADERS.CaptainBecknell'sExpedition--SufferingsfromThirst--AugusteChouteau--ImprisonmentofMcKnightandChambers--TheCaches--StampedingMules--FirstMilitaryEscortacrossthePlains--CaptainZebulonPike--SubletteandSmith--MurderofMcNess--IndiansnottheAggressors.

CHAPTERIV.TRAINSANDPACKERS.TheAtajoorPack-trainofMules--MexicanNomenclatureofParaphernalia--MannerofPacking--The"Bell-mare"--Toughnessof

MulesamongPrecipices--TheCaravanofWagons--LargestWagon-traineveronthePlains--Stampedes--DutiesofPackersenroute--OrderofTravellingwithPack-train--Chris.Gilson,theFamousPacker.

CHAPTERV.FIGHTWITHCOMANCHES.NarrativeofBryant'sPartyofSantaFeTraders--TheFirstWagonExpeditionacrossthePlains--AThrillingStoryofHardshipandPhysicalSuffering--TerribleFightwiththeComanches--AbandonmentoftheWagons--OnFootovertheTrail--BurialoftheirSpecie


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onanIslandintheArkansas--NarrativeofWilliamY.Hitt,oneoftheParty--HisEncounterwithaComanche--TheFirstEscortofUnitedStatesTroopstotheAnnualCaravanofSantaFeTraders,in1829--MajorBennettRiley'sOfficialReporttotheWarDepartment--JournalofCaptainCooke.

CHAPTERVI.AROMANTICTRAGEDY.TheExpeditionofTexanstotheOldSantaFeTrailforthePurposeofrobbingMexicanTraders--InnocentCitizensoftheUnitedStatessuspected,arrested,andcarriedtotheCapitalofNewMexico--ColonelSnively'sForce--Warfield'sSackingoftheVillageofMora--AttackuponaMexicanCaravan--KitCarsonintheFight--ACrimeofoverSixtyYearsAgo--ARomanceoftheTragedy.

CHAPTERVII.MEXICODECLARESWAR.MexicodeclaresWaragainsttheUnitedStates--CongressauthorizesthePresidenttocallforFiftyThousandVolunteers--OrganizationoftheArmyoftheWest--PhenomenonseenbySantaFeTradersintheSky--FirstDeathontheMarchoftheArmyacrossthePlains--MeninaStarvingCondition--AnotherDeath--BurialnearPawneeRock--TroubleatPawneeFork--MajorHoward'sReport.

CHAPTERVIII.THEVALLEYOFTAOS.TheValleyofTaos--FirstWhiteSettler--RebellionoftheMexicans--AWomandiscoversandinformsColonelPriceoftheConspiracy--AssassinationofGovernorBent--HorribleButcheriesbythePueblosandMexicans--Turley'sRanch--MurderofHarwoodandMarkhead--AnecdoteofSirWilliamDrummondStewart--FightattheMills--BattleofthePuebloofTaos--TrialoftheInsurrectionists--Baptiste,theJuror--ExecutionoftheRebels.

CHAPTERIX.FIRSTOVERLANDMAIL.Independence--OpeningofNavigationontheMississippi--Effectof

WaterTransportationupontheTrade--EstablishmentofTrading-forts--MarketforCattleandMules--WagespaidTeamstersontheTrail--AnEnterprisingColouredMan--IncreaseoftheTradeattheCloseoftheMexicanWar--HeavyEmigrationtoCalifornia--FirstOverlandMail--HowtheGuardswerearmed--PassengerCoachestoSantaFe--Stage-coachingDays.

CHAPTERX.CHARLESBENT.TheTragedyintheCanyonoftheCanadian--DragoonsfollowtheTrailoftheSavages--KitCarson,DickWooton,andTomTobintheScoutsoftheExpedition--MorethanaHundredoftheSavageskilled--MurderofMrs.White--WhiteWolf--LieutenantBell'sSingularDuel

withtheNotedSavage--OldWolf--Satank--MurderofPeacock--SatantamadeChief--KickingBird--HisTragicDeath--CharlesBent,theHalf-breedRenegade--HisTerribleActs--HisDeath.

CHAPTERXI.LAGLORIETA.NeglectofNewMexicobytheUnitedStatesGovernment--IntendedConquestoftheProvince--ConspiracyofSouthernLeaders--SurrenderbyGeneralTwiggstotheConfederateGovernmentoftheMilitaryPostsandMunitionsofWarunderhisCommand--OnlyOne


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SoldieroutofTwoThousanddesertstotheEnemy--OrganizationofVolunteersfortheDefenceofColoradoandNewMexico--BattleofLaGlorieta--RoutoftheRebels.

CHAPTERXII.THEBUFFALO.TheAncientRangeoftheBuffalo--NumberslaughteredinThirteenYearsfortheirRobesalone--BuffaloBones--TrainsstoppedbyVastHerds--CustomofOldHunterswhencaughtinaBlizzard--AnecdotesofBuffaloHunting--KitCarson'sDilemma--ExperienceofTwoofFremont'sHunters--WoundedBuffaloBull--O'Neil'sLaughableExperience--OrganizationofaHerdofBuffalo--Stampedes--ThrillingEscapes.

CHAPTERXIII.INDIANCUSTOMSANDLEGENDS.BigTimbers--WinterCampoftheCheyennes,Kiowas,andArapahoes--SavageAmusements--ACheyenneLodge--IndianEtiquette--TreatmentofChildren--ThePipeoftheNorthAmericanSavage--DogFeast--MarriageCeremony.

CHAPTERXIV.TRAPPERS.TheOldPuebloFort--ACelebratedRendezvous--ItsInhabitants--"FontainequiBouille"--TheLegendofitsOrigin--TheTrappers

oftheOldSantaFeTrailandtheRockyMountains--BeaverTrapping--HabitsoftheBeaver--ImprovidenceoftheOldTrappers--Tradingwith"PoorLo"--TheStrangeExperienceofaVeteranTrapperontheSantaFeTrail--RomanticMarriageofBaptisteBrown.

CHAPTERXV.UNCLEJOHNSMITH.UncleJohnSmith--AFamousTrapper,Guide,andInterpreter--HisMarriagewithaCheyenneSquaw--AnAutocratamongthePeopleofthePlainsandMountains--TheMexicansheldhiminGreatDread--HisWonderfulResemblancetoPresidentAndrewJohnson--InterpreterandGuideonGeneralSheridan'sWinterExpeditionagainsttheAlliedPlainsTribes--HisStoriesaroundtheCamp-fire.

CHAPTERXVI.KITCARSON.FamousMenoftheOldSantaFeTrail--KitCarson--JimBridger--JamesP.Beckwourth--UncleDickWooton--JimBaker--LucienB.Maxwell--OldBillWilliams--TomTobin--JamesHobbs.

CHAPTERXVII.UNCLEDICKWOOTON.UncleDickWooton--LucienB.Maxwell--OldBillWilliams--TomTobin--JamesHobbs--WilliamF.Cody(BuffaloBill).

CHAPTERXVIII.

MAXWELL'SRANCH.Maxwell'sRanchontheOldSantaFeTrail--APicturesqueRegion--MaxwellaTrapperandHunterwiththeAmericanFurCompany--LifelongComradeofKitCarson--SourcesofMaxwell'sWealth--FondofHorse-racing--ADisastrousFourth-of-JulyCelebration--AnecdoteofKitCarson--DiscoveryofGoldontheRanch--TheBigDitch--IssuingBeeftotheUteIndians--CampingoutwithMaxwellandCarson--AStoryoftheOldSantaFeTrail.

CHAPTERXIX.


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BENT'SFORTS.TheBents'SeveralForts--FamousTrading-posts--RendezvousoftheRockyMountainTrappers--CastleWilliamandIncidentsconnectedwiththeNotedPlace--BarteringwiththeIndians--AnnualFeastofArapahoesandCheyennes--OldWolf'sFirstVisittoBent'sFort--TheSurpriseoftheSavages--StoriestoldbyCelebratedFrontiersmenaroundtheCamp-fire.

CHAPTERXX.PAWNEEROCK.PawneeRock--ADebatableRegionoftheIndianTribes--ThemostDangerousPointontheCentralPlainsintheDaysoftheEarlySantaFeTrade--ReceiveditsNameinaBaptismofBlood--Battle-groundofthePawneesandCheyennes--OldGravesontheSummitoftheRock--KitCarson'sFirstFightattheRockwiththePawnees--KillshisMulebyMistake--ColonelSt.Vrain'sBrilliantCharge--DefeatoftheSavages--TheTrappers'TerribleBattlewiththePawnees--TheMassacreatCowCreek.

CHAPTERXXI.FOOLINGSTAGEROBBERS.WagonMound--JohnL.Hatcher'sThrillingAdventurewithOldWolf,theWar-chiefoftheComanches--IncidentsontheTrail--ABoyBugler'sHappyEscapefromtheSavagesatFortUnion--ADrunken

Stage-driver--HowanOfficeroftheQuartermaster'sDepartmentatWashingtonsucceededinstartingtheMilitaryFreightCaravansaMonthEarlierthantheUsualTime--HowJohnChisholmfooledtheStage-robbers--TheStoryofHalfaPlugofTobacco.

CHAPTERXXII.ADESPERATERIDE.SolitaryGravesalongtheLineoftheOldSantaFeTrail--TheWalnutCrossing--FortZarah--TheGravesonHon.D.Heizer'sRanchontheWalnut--TroopsstationedattheCrossingoftheWalnut--ATerribleFiveMiles--TheCavalryRecruit'sLastRide.

CHAPTERXXIII.

HANCOCK'SEXPEDITION.GeneralHancock'sExpeditionagainstthePlainsIndians--TerribleSnow-stormatFortLarned--MeetingwiththeChiefsoftheDog-Soldiers--BullBear'sDiplomacy--MeetingoftheUnitedStatesTroopsandtheSavagesinLineofBattle--Custer'sNightExperience--TheSurgeonandDogStew--DestructionoftheVillagebyFire--GeneralSully'sFightwiththeKiowas,Comanches,andArapahoes--FindingtheSkeletonsoftheUnfortunateMen--TheSavages'ReportoftheAffair.

CHAPTERXXIV.INVASIONOFTHERAILROAD.SceneryontheLineoftheOldSantaFeTrail--TheGreatPlains--

TheArkansasValley--OvertheRockyMountainsintoNewMexico--TheRatonRange--TheSpanishPeaks--Simpson'sRest--Fisher'sPeak--RatonPeak--SnowyRange--Pike'sPeak--RatonCreek--TheInvasionoftheRailroad--TheOldSantaFeTrailaThingofthePast.

FOOTNOTES.

PUBLICATIONINFORMATION.


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INTRODUCTION.

Formorethanthreecenturies,aperiodextendingfrom1541to1851,historiansbelieved,andsoannouncedtotheliteraryworld,thatFranciscoVasquezdeCoronado,thecelebratedSpanishexplorer,inhissearchfortheSevenCitiesofCibolaandtheKingdomofQuivira,wasthefirstEuropeantotravelovertheintra-continentregionofNorthAmerica.Inthelastyearabovereferredto,however,BuckinghamSmith,ofFlorida,aneminentSpanishscholar,andsecretaryoftheAmericanLegationatMadrid,discoveredamongthearchivesofStatetheNarrativeofAlvarNunezCabecadeVaca,wherefornearlythreehundredyearsithadlain,mustyandbegrimedwiththedustofages,anunreadandforgottenstoryofsufferingthathasnoparallelinfiction.Thedistinguishedantiquarianunearthedthevaluablemanuscriptfromitsgraveofoblivion,translateditintoEnglish,andgaveittotheworldofletters;conferringhonouruponwhomhonourwasdue,andtearingthelaurelsfromsuchgrandvoyageursanddiscoverersasDeSoto,LaSalle,andCoronado,uponwhoseheadshistoryhaderroneouslyplacedthem,throughnofault,orarrogance,however,oftheirown.

Cabeca,beyondanyquestion,travelledtheOldSantaFeTrailformanymiles,crosseditwhereitintersectstheArkansasRiver,alittleeastofFortWilliamorBent'sFort,andwentthenceonintoNewMexico,followingthefamoushighwayasfar,atleast,asLasVegas.Cabeca'smarchantedatedthatofCoronadobyfiveyears.TothisintrepidSpanishvoyageurweareindebtedforthefirstdescriptionoftheAmericanbison,orbuffaloastheanimaliserroneouslycalled.WhilenotsoquaintinitslanguageasthatofCoronado'shistorian,alustrumlater,thestatementcannotbepervertedintoanyotherreferencethantothegreatshaggymonstersoftheplains:--

Cattlecomeasfarasthis.Ihaveseenthemthreetimes

andeatenoftheirmeat.IthinktheyareaboutthesizeofthoseofSpain.TheyhavesmallhornslikethecowsofMorocco,andthehairverylongandflocky,likethatofthemerino;somearelightbrown,othersblack.Tomyjudgmentthefleshisfinerandfatterthanthatofthiscountry.TheIndiansmakeblanketsofthehidesofthosenotfullgrown.Theyrangeoveradistrictofmorethanfourhundredleagues,andinthewholeextentofplainoverwhichtheyrunthepeoplethatinhabitneartheredescendandliveonthemandscatteravastmanyskinsthroughoutthecountry.

Itwillberememberedbythestudentoftheearlyhistoryofour

country,thatwhenAlvarNunezCabecadeVaca,afolloweroftheunfortunatePanphilodeNarvaez,andwhohadbeenlongthoughtdead,landedinSpain,hegavesuchglowingaccountsofFlorida[1]andtheneighbouringregionsthatthewholekingdomwasinaferment,andmanyaheartpantedtoemigratetoalandwherethefruitswereperennial,andwhereitwasthoughtflowedthefabledfountainofyouth.

Threeexpeditionstothatcountryhadalreadybeentried:oneundertakenin1512,byJuanPoncedeLeon,formerlyacompanionofColumbus;anotherin1520,byVasquezdeAllyon;andanotherbyPanphilode


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Narvaez.Allofthesehadsignallyfailed,thebonesofmostoftheleadersandtheirfollowershavingbeenlefttobleachuponthesoiltheyhadcometoconquer.

TheunfortunateissueoftheformerexpeditionsdidnotoperateasacheckupontheaspiringmindofDeSoto,butmadehimthemoreanxioustospringasanactorintothearenawhichhadbeenthesceneofthediscomfitureanddeathofthehardychivalryofthekingdom.Hesoughtanaudienceoftheemperor,andthelatter,afterhearingDeSoto'spropositionthat,"hecouldconquerthecountryknownasFloridaathisownexpense,"conferreduponhimthetitleof"GovernorofCubaandFlorida."

Onthe6thofApril,1538,DeSotosailedfromSpainwithanarmamentoftenvesselsandasplendidlyequippedarmyofninehundredchosenmen,amidsttheroarofcannonsandtheinspiringstrainsofmartialmusic.

ItisnotwithintheprovinceofthisworktofollowDeSotothroughallhisterribletrialsontheNorthAmericancontinent;thewonderfulstorymaybefoundineverywell-organizedlibrary.Itisrecorded,however,thatsometimeduringtheyear1542,hisdecimatedarmy,thenunderthecommandofLuisdeMoscoso,DeSotohavingdiedthepreviousMay,wascampedontheArkansasRiver,farupwardtowardswhatisnowKansas.Itwasthiscommand,too,oftheunfortunatebutcruelDeSoto,thatsaw

theRockyMountainsfromtheeast.Thechroniclerofthedisastrousjourneytowardsthemountainssays:"Theentireroutebecameatrailoffireandblood,"astheyhadmanyadesperatestrugglewiththesavagesoftheplains,who"wereofgiganticstructure,andfoughtwithheavystrongclubs,withthedesperationofdemons.Suchwastheirtremendousstrength,thatoneofthesewarriorswasamatchforaSpanishsoldier,thoughmountedonahorse,armedwithaswordandcasedinarmour!"

MoscosowassearchingforCoronado,andhewasoneofthemosthumaneofalltheofficersofDeSoto'scommand,forheevidentlybenteveryenergytoextricatehismenfromthedreadfulenvironmentsoftheirsituation;despairingofreachingtheGulfbytheMississippi,hestruckwestward,hoping,asCabecadeVacahaddone,toarriveinMexico

overland.

AperiodofsixmonthswasconsumedinMoscoso'smarchtowardstheRockyMountains,buthefailedtofindCoronado,whoatthattimewascampednearwhereWichita,Kansas,islocated;accordingtohishistorian,"atthejunctionoftheSt.PeterandSt.Paul"(theBigandLittleArkansas?).ThatpointwastheplaceofseparationbetweenCoronadoandanumberofhisfollowers;manyreturningtoMexico,whiletheundauntedcommander,withasmanyashecouldinducetoaccompanyhim,continuedeasterly,stillinsearchofthemythicalQuivira.

HowfarwestwardMoscosotravelledcannotbedeterminedaccurately,butthathisrouteextendedupthevalleyoftheArkansasformorethan

threehundredmiles,intowhatisnowKansas,isprovedbythestatementofhishistorian,whosays:"Theysawgreatchainsofmountainsandforeststothewest,whichtheyunderstoodwereuninhabited."

Anotherstrongconfirmatoryfactis,that,in1884,agroupofmoundswasdiscoveredinMcPhersonCounty,Kansas,whichwerethoroughlyexploredbytheprofessorsofBethanyCollege,Lindsborg,whofound,amongotherinterestingrelics,apieceofchain-mailarmour,ofhardsteel;undoubtedlypartoftheequipmentofaSpanishsoldiereitherofthecommandofCabecadeVaca,DeSoto,orofCoronado.Theprobability


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is,thatitwaswornbyoneofDeSoto'sunfortunatemen,asneitherPanphilodeNarvaez,DeVaca,orCoronadoexperiencedanydifficultywiththesavagesofthegreatplains,becausethoseleaderswerehumaneandtreatedtheIndianskindly,incontradistinctiontoDeSoto,whowasthemostinhumanofalltheearlySpanishexplorers.HewasofthesameschoolasPizarroandCortez;possessingtheirdaringvalour,theircontemptofdanger,andtheirtenacityofpurpose,aswellastheircrueltyandavarice.DeSotomadetreatieswiththeIndianswhichheconstantlyviolated,andmurderedthemisguidedcreatureswithoutmercy.DuringtheretreatofMoscoso'sweakenedcommanddowntheArkansasRiver,theHotSpringsofArkansaswerediscovered.Hishistorianwrites:

Andwhentheysawthefoamingfountain,theythoughtitwasthelong-searched-for"FountainofYouth,"reportedbyfametoexistsomewhereinthecountry,buttenofthesoldiersdyingfromexcessivedrinking,theyweresoonconvincedoftheirerror.

AftertheseintrepidexplorerstherestlessCoronadoappearsontheOldTrail.InthethirdvolumeofHakluyt'sVoyages,publishedinLondon,1600,Coronado'shistorianthusdescribesthegreatplainsofKansasandColorado,thebison,andatornado:--

FromCicuyetheywenttoQuivira,whichaftertheiraccountisalmostthreehundredleaguesdistant,throughmightyplains,andsandyheathssosmoothandwearisome,andbareofwoodthattheymadeheapsofox-dung,forwantofstonesandtrees,thattheymightnotlosethemselvesattheirreturn:forthreehorseswerelostonthatplain,andoneSpaniardwhichwentfromhiscompanyonhunting....Allthatwayofplainsareasfullofcrooked-backoxenasthemountainSerrenainSpainisofsheep,butthereisnosuchpeopleaskeepthosecattle....Theywereagreatsuccourforthehungerandthewantofbread,whichourpartystoodinneedof....

Onedayitrainedinthatplainagreatshowerofhail,asbigasoranges,whichcausedmanytears,weaknessandbowes.

Theseoxenareofthebignessandcolourofourbulls,buttheirbonesarenotsogreat.Theyhaveagreatbunchupontheirfore-shoulder,andmorehairontheirforepartthanontheirhinderpart,anditislikewool.Theyhaveasitwereanhorse-maneupontheirbackbone,andmuchhairandverylongfromtheirkneesdownward.Theyhavegreattuftsofhairhangingdownontheirforeheads,anditseemeththeyhavebeardsbecauseofthegreatstoreofhairhangingdownattheirchinsandthroats.Themaleshave

verylongtails,andagreatknoborflockattheend,sothatinsomerespectstheyresemblethelion,andinsomeotherthecamel.Theypushwiththeirhorns,theyrun,theyovertakeandkillanhorsewhentheyareintheirrageandanger.Finallyitisafoulandfiercebeastofcountenanceandformofbody.Thehorsesfledfromthem,eitherbecauseoftheirdeformedshape,orelsebecausetheyhadneverbeforeseenthem.

"Thenumber,"continuesthehistorian,"wasincredible."Whenthe


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soldiers,intheirexcitementforthechase,begantokillthem,theyrushedtogetherinsuchmassesthathundredswereliterallycrushedtodeath.Atoneplacetherewasagreatravine;theyjumpedintoitintheireffortstoescapefromthehunters,andsoterriblewastheslaughterastheytumbledovertheprecipicethatthedepressionwascompletelyfilledup,theircarcassesformingabridge,overwhichtheremainderpassedwithease.

ThenextrecordedexpeditionacrosstheplainsviatheOldTrailwasalsobytheSpaniardsfromSantaFe,eastwardly,intheyear1716,"forthepurposeofestablishingaMilitaryPostintheUpperMississippiValleyasabarriertothefurtherencroachmentsoftheFrenchinthatdirection."AnaccountofthisexpeditionisfoundinMemoiresHistoriquessurLaLouisiane,publishedinParisin1858,butnevertranslatedinitsentirety.Theauthor,LieutenantDumontoftheFrencharmy,wasoneofapartyascendingtheArkansasRiverinsearchofasupposedmassofemeralds.Thenarrativerelates:

Therewasmorethanhalfaleaguetotraversetogaintheotherbankoftheriver,andourpeoplewerenosoonerarrivedthantheyfoundthereapartyofMissouris,senttoM.delaHarpebyM.deBienville,thencommandantgeneralatLouisiana,todeliverorderstotheformer.Consequentlytheygavethesignalorder,andourothertwocanoeshaving

crossedtheriver,thesavagesgavetoourcommandantthelettersofM.deBienville,inwhichheinformedhimthattheSpaniardshadsentoutadetachmentfromNewMexicotogototheMissourisandtoestablishapostinthatcountry....ThesuccessofthisexpeditionwasverycalamitoustotheSpaniards.Theircaravanwascomposedoffifteenhundredpeople,men,womenandsoldiers,havingwiththemaJacobinforachaplain,andbringingalsoagreatnumberofhorsesandcattle,accordingtothecustomofthatnationtoforgetnothingthatmightbenecessaryforasettlement.TheirdesignwastodestroytheMissouris,andtoseizeupontheircountry,andwiththisintentiontheyhadresolvedtogofirsttotheOsages,aneighbouring

nation,enemiesoftheMissouris,toformanalliancewiththem,andtoengagethemintheirbehalffortheexecutionoftheirplan.Perhapsthemapwhichguidedthemwasnotcorrect,ortheyhadnotexactlyfollowedit,foritchancedthatinsteadofgoingtotheOsageswhomtheysought,theyfell,withoutknowingit,intoavillageoftheMissouris,wheretheSpanishcommander,presentinghimselftothegreatchiefandofferinghimthecalumet,madehimunderstandthroughaninterpreter,believinghimselftobespeakingtotheOsagechief,thattheywereenemiesoftheMissouris,thattheyhadcometodestroythem,tomaketheirwomenandchildrenslavesandtotakepossessionoftheircountry.Hebeggedthechieftobewillingtoformanalliance

withthem,againstanationwhomtheOsagesregardedastheirenemy,andtosecondtheminthisenterprise,promisingtorecompensethemliberallyfortheservicerendered,andalwaystobetheirfriendinthefuture.UponthisdiscoursetheMissourichiefunderstoodperfectlywellthemistake.HedissimulatedandthankedtheSpaniardfortheconfidencehehadinhisnation;heconsentedtoformanalliancewiththemagainsttheMissouris,andtojointhemwithallhisforcestodestroythem;butherepresentedthathispeoplewerenotarmed,andthattheydarednot


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exposethemselveswithoutarmsinsuchanenterprise.Deceivedbysofavourableareception,theSpaniardsfellintothetraplaidforthem.Theyreceivedwithdueceremony,inthelittlecamptheyhadformedontheirarrival,thecalumetwhichthegreatchiefoftheMissourispresentedtotheSpanishcommander.Theallianceforwarwassworntobybothparties;theyagreeduponadayfortheexecutionoftheplanwhichtheymeditated,andtheSpaniardsfurnishedthesavageswithallthemunitionswhichtheythoughtwereneeded.Aftertheceremonybothpartiesgavethemselvesupequallytojoyandgoodcheer.Attheendofthreedaystwothousandsavageswerearmedandinthemidstofdancesandamusements;eachpartythoughtnothingbuttheexecutionofitsdesign.Itwastheeveningbeforetheirdepartureupontheirconcertedexpedition,andtheSpaniardshadretiredtotheircampsasusual,whenthegreatchiefoftheMissouris,havingassembledhiswarriors,declaredtothemhisintentionsandexhortedthemtodealtreacherouslywiththesestrangerswhowerecometotheirhomeonlywiththedesignofdestroyingthem.Atdaybreakthesavagesdividedintoseveralbands,fellontheSpaniards,whoexpectednothingofthekind,andinlessthanaquarterofanhourallthecaravanweremurdered.Nooneescapedfromthemassacreexceptthechaplain,whom

thebarbarianssavedbecauseofhisdress;atthesametimetheytookpossessionofallthemerchandiseandothereffectswhichtheyfoundintheircamp.TheSpaniardshadbroughtwiththem,asIhavesaid,acertainnumberofhorses,andasthesavageswereignorantoftheuseoftheseanimals,theytookpleasureinmakingtheJacobinwhomtheyhadsaved,andwhohadbecometheirslave,mountthem.Thepriestgavethemthisamusementalmosteverydayforthefiveorsixmonthsthatheremainedwiththemintheirvillage,withoutanyofthemdaringtoimitatehim.Tiredatlastofhisslavery,andregardingthelackofdaringinthesebarbariansasameansofProvidencetoregainhisliberty,hemadesecretlyalltheprovisionspossibleforhimtomake,

andwhichhebelievednecessarytohisplan.Atlast,havingchosenthebesthorseandhavingmountedhim,afterperformingseveralofhisexploitsbeforethesavages,andwhiletheywerealloccupiedwithhismanoeuvres,hespurredupanddisappearedfromtheirsight,takingtheroadtoMexico,wheredoubtlesshearrived.

Charlevoix,[2]whotravelledfromQuebectoNewOrleansintheyear1721,saysinoneofhisletterstotheDuchessofLesdiguieres,datedatKaskaskia,July21,1721:

AbouttwoyearsagosomeSpaniards,coming,astheysay,fromNewMexico,andintendingtogetintothecountryof

theIllinoisanddrivetheFrenchfromthence,whomtheysawwithextremejealousyapproachsoneartheMissouri,camedowntheriverandattackedtwovillagesoftheOctoyas,[3]whoarethealliesoftheAyouez,[4]andfromwhomitissaidalsothattheyarederived.Asthesavageshadnofirearmsandweresurprised,theSpaniardsmadeaneasyconquestandkilledagreatmanyofthem.Athirdvillage,whichwasnotfarofffromtheothertwo,beinginformedofwhathadpassed,andnotdoubtingbuttheseconquerorswouldattackthem,laidanambushintowhich


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theSpaniardsheedlesslyfell.Otherssaythatthesavages,havingheardthattheenemywerealmostalldrunkandfastasleep,fellupontheminthenight.Howeveritwas,itiscertainthegreaterpartofthemwerekilled.Therewereinthepartytwoalmoners;oneofthemwaskilleddirectlyandtheothergotawaytotheMissouris,whotookhimprisoner,butheescapedthemverydexterously.HehadaveryfinehorseandtheMissouristookpleasureinseeinghimrideit,whichhedidveryskilfully.Hetookadvantageoftheircuriositytogetoutoftheirhands.

Onedayashewasprancingandexercisinghishorsebeforethem,hegotalittledistancefromtheminsensibly;thensuddenlyclappingspurstohishorsehewassoonoutofsight.

TheMissouriIndiansonceoccupiedalltheterritorynearthejunctionoftheKawandMissouririvers,buttheywereconstantlydecimatedbythecontinualdepredationsoftheirwarlikeandfeudalenemies,thePawneesandSioux,andatlastfellapreytothatdreadfulscourge,thesmall-pox,whichsweptthemoffbythousands.TheremnantoftheoncepowerfultribethenfoundshelterandahomewiththeOtoes,finallybecomingmergedinthattribe.

CHAPTERI.UNDERTHESPANIARDS.

TheSantaFeofthepurelyMexicanoccupation,longbeforethedaysofNewMexico'sacquisitionbytheUnitedStates,andtheSantaFeofto-dayaresowidelyincontrastthatitisdifficulttofindlanguageinwhichtoconveytothereaderthestoryofthephenomenalchange.Tothosewhoareacquaintedwiththecharmingplaceasitisnow,withitsrefinedandculturedsociety,Icannotdobetter,perhaps,inattemptingtoshowwhatitwasundertheoldregime,thantoquotewhatsome

travellerintheearly30'swroteforaNewYorkleadingnewspaper,inregardtoit.Asfarasmyownobservationoftheplaceisconcerned,whenIfirstvisiteditagreatmanyyearsago,thewriterofthecommunicationwhoseviewsInowpresentwasnotincorrectinhisjudgment.Hesaid:--

Todignifysuchacollectionofmudhovelswiththenameof"City,"wouldbeakeenirony;notgreater,however,thanisthenamewithwhichitsPadreshavebaptizedit.Tocallaplacewithitsmoralcharacter,averySodomininiquity,"HolyFaith,"isscarcelyavenialsin;itdeservesPurgatoryatleast.Itshealthisthebestinthecountry,whichisthefirst,secondandthird

recommendationofNewMexicobyitsgreatestadmirers.Itisasmalltownofabouttwothousandinhabitants,crowdedupagainstthemountains,attheendofalittlevalleythroughwhichrunsamountainstreamofthesamenametributarytotheRioGrande.Ithasapublicsquareinthecentre,aPalaceandanAlameda;asallSpanishRomanCatholictownshave.ItistrueitsPlaza,orPublicSquare,isunfencedanduncaredfor,withouttreesorgrass.ThePalaceisnothingmorethanthebiggestmud-houseinthetown,andthechurches,too,areunsightly


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pilesofthesamematerial,andtheAlameda[5]isontopofasandhill.YettheyhaveinSantaFeallthepartsandparcelsofaregalcityandaBishopric.TheBishophasapalacealso;theonlytwo-storiedshingle-roofedhouseintheplace.Thereisonepublichousesetapartforeating,drinkingandgambling;forbeitknownthatgamblingishereauthorizedbylaw.Henceitisasrespectabletokeepagamblinghouse,asitistosellruminNewJersey;itisalawfulbusiness,andbeinglawful,andconsequentlyrespectableandaman'sright,whyshouldnotmengamble?Andgambletheydo.TheGeneralsandtheColonelsandtheMajorsandtheCaptainsgamble.Thejudgesandthelawyersandthedoctorsandthepriestsgamble;andtherearegentlemengamblersbyprofession!Youwillseesquadsofpoorpeonsdaily,men,womenandboys,sittingonthegroundaroundadeckofcardsinthePublicSquare,gamblingforthesmalleststakes.

ThestoresofthetowngenerallyfrontonthePublicSquare.Ofthesethereareadozen,moreorless,ofrespectablesize,andmostofthemarekeptbyothersthanMexicans.Thebusinessoftheplaceisconsiderable,manyofthemerchantsherebeingwholesaledealersforthevastterritorytributary.Itissupposedthatabout$750,000

worthofgoodswillbebroughttothisplacethisyear,andtheremaybe$250,000worthimporteddirectlyfromtheUnitedStates.

Inthemoneymarketthereisnothinglessthanafive-centpiece.Youcannotpurchaseanythingforlessthanfivecents.Intradetheyreckontencentstheeighthofadollar.Ifyoupurchasenominallyadollar'sworthofanarticle,youcanpayforitineightten-centpieces;andifyougiveadollar,youreceivenochange.Inchangingadollarforyou,youwouldgetbuteightten-centpiecesforit.

Yet,althoughdirtyandunkempt,andswarmingwithhungry

dogs,ithasthecharmofforeignflavour,andlikeSanAntonioretainssomeportionofthegracewhichlonglingeredaboutit,ifindeediteverforsakesthespotwhereSpainheldruleforcenturies,andthesoftsyllablesoftheSpanishlanguageareyetheard.

Suchwasadescriptionofthe"drowsyoldtown"ofSantaFe,sixty-fiveyearsago.FifteenyearslaterMajorW.H.Emory,oftheUnitedStatesarmy,writesofitasfollows:[6]

ThepopulationofSantaFeisfromtwotofourthousand,andtheinhabitantsare,itissaid,thepoorestpeopleofanytownintheProvince.Thehousesaremudbricks,

intheSpanishstyle,generallyofonestory,andbuiltonasquare.Theinteriorofthesquareisanopencourt,andtheprincipalroomsopenintoit.Theyareforbiddinginappearancefromtheoutside,butnothingcanexceedthecomfortandconvenienceoftheinterior.Thethickwallsmakethemcoolinsummerandwarminwinter.

Thebetterclassofpeopleareprovidedwithexcellentbeds,butthepoorerclasssleeponuntannedskins.Thewomenhere,asinmanyotherpartsoftheworld,appeartobe


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muchbeforethemeninrefinements,intelligence,andknowledgeoftheusefularts.ThehigherclassdressliketheAmericanwomen,except,insteadofabonnet,theywearascarfovertheirhead,calledareboso.Thistheywearasleeporawake,inthehouseorabroad.Thedressofthelowerclassesofwomenisasimplepetticoat,witharmsandshouldersbare,exceptwhatmaychancetobecoveredbythereboso.

Themenwhohavemeanstodosodressafterourfashion;butbyfarthegreaternumber,whentheydressatall,wearleatherbreeches,tightaroundthehipsandopenfromthekneedown;shirtandblankettaketheplaceofourcoatandvest.

Thecityisdependentonthedistanthillsforwood,andatallhoursofthedaymaybeseenjackassespassingladenwithwood,whichissoldattwobits,twenty-fivecents,theload.Thesearethemostdiminutiveanimals,andusuallymountedfrombehind,afterthefashionofleap-frog.Thejackassistheonlyanimalthatcanbesubsistedinthisbarrenneighbourhoodwithoutgreatexpense;ourhorsesareallsenttoadistanceoftwelve,fifteen,andthirtymilesforgrass.

IhaveinterpolatedthesetwosomewhatsimilardescriptionsofSantaFewritteninthatlongagowhenNewMexicowasalmostaslittleknownasthetopographyoftheplanetMars,sothattheintelligentvisitorofto-daymayappreciatethewonderfulchangeswhichAmericanthrift,andthatpowerfulcivilizer,thelocomotive,havewroughtinaveryfewyears,yetitstill,asoneoftheforegoingwritershaswellsaid,"hasthecharmofforeignflavour,andthesoftsyllablesoftheSpanishlanguagearestillheard."

Themostpositiveexceptionmustbetakentothestatementofthefirst-quotedwriterinrelationtothePalace,ofwhichhesays"Itisnothingmorethanthebiggestmud-houseinthetown."Nowthis"Palacio

delGobernador,"astheoldbuildingwascalledbytheSpanish,waserectedataveryearlyday.Itwasthelong-establishedseatofpowerwhenPenalosaconfinedthechiefinquisitorwithinitswallsin1663,andwhenthePuebloauthoritiestookpossessionofitasthecitadeloftheircentralauthority,in1681.

Theoldbuildingcannotwellbeoverlookedbythemostcarelessvisitortothequainttown;itisalong,lowstructure,takingupthegreaterpartofonesideofthePlaza,roundwhichrunsacolonnadesupportedbypillarsofroughpine.InthisonceleakyoldPalacewerekept,orratherneglected,thearchivesoftheTerritoryuntiltheAmericanresidents,appreciatingtheimportanceofpreservingpreciousdocumentscontainingsomuchofinteresttothestudentofhistoryandthe

antiquarian,enlistedthemselvesenthusiasticallyinthegoodcause,andhaverescuedfromobliviontheannalsofarelativelyremotecivilization,which,butfortheirforethought,wouldhaveperishedfromthefaceoftheearthascompletelyashavethewrittenrecordsofthatwonderfulregioninCentralAmerica,whosegiganticruinsaloneremaintotellusofwhatwasahighlyculturedorderofarchitectureinpastages,andofapeoplewhoseintelligencewascomparabletothestyleofthedwellingsinwhichtheylived.

TheoldadobePalaceisinitselfavolumewhosepagesarefilled


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withpathosandstirringevents.Ithasbeenthesceneandwitnessofincidentstherecitalofwhichwouldtousto-dayseemincredible.Anoldfriend,oncegovernorofNewMexicoandnowdead,thusgraphicallyspokeofthevenerablebuilding:[7]

InitlivedandruledtheSpanishcaptaingeneral,soremoteandinaccessiblefromtheviceroyaltyatMexicothathewasineffectaking,nominallyaccountabletotheviceroy,butpracticallybeyondhisreachandcontrolandwhollyirresponsibletothepeople.EquallyindependentforthesamereasonweretheMexicangovernors.Heremetalltheprovincial,territorial,departmental,andotherlegislativebodiesthathaveeverassembledatthecapitalofNewMexico.HerehavebeenplannedalltheIndianwarsandmeasuresfordefenceagainstforeigninvasion,including,asthemostnoteworthy,theNavajowarof1823,theTexaninvasionof1842,theAmericanof1846,andtheConfederateof1862.Withinitswallswasimprisoned,in1809,theAmericanexplorerZebulonM.Pike,andinnumerablestateprisonersbeforeandsince;andmanyasentenceofdeathhasbeenpronouncedthereinandtheaccusedforthwithledawayandshotatthedictumofthemanatthePalace.Ithasbeenfromtimeimmemorialthegovernmenthousewithallitsbranchesannexed.ItwassuchontheFourthofJuly,1776,

whentheAmericanCongressatIndependenceHallinPhiladelphiaproclaimedlibertythroughoutalltheland,notthen,butnowembracingit.Indeed,thisoldedificehasahistory.AndasthehistoryofSantaFeisthehistoryofNewMexico,soisthehistoryofthePalacethehistoryofSantaFe.

ThePalacewastheonlybuildinghavingglazedwindows.Atoneendwasthegovernmentprintingoffice,andattheother,theguard-houseandprison.Fearfulstorieswereconnectedwiththeprison.Edwards[8]saysthathefound,onexaminingthewallsofthesmallrooms,locksofhumanhairstuffedintoholes,withrudecrossesdrawnoverthem.

FrontingthePalace,onthesouthsideofthePlaza,stoodtheremainsoftheCapilladelosSoldados,orMilitaryChapel.Therealnameofthechurchwas"OurLadyofLight."ItwassaidtobetherichestchurchintheProvince,buthadnotbeeninuseforanumberofyears,andtheroofhadfallenin,allowingtheelementstocompletetheworkofdestruction.Oneachsideofthealtarwastheremainsoffinecarving,andaweather-beatenpictureabovegaveevidenceofhavingbeenabeautifulpainting.Overthedoorwasalargeoblongslaboffreestone,elaboratelycarved,representing"OurLadyofLight"rescuingahumanbeingfromthejawsofSatan.Alargetablet,beautifullyexecutedinrelief,stoodbehindthealtar,representingvarioussaints,withaninscriptionstatingthatitwaserectedbyGovernorFranciscoAntoniodelValleandhiswifein1761.

ChurchserviceswereheldintheParroquia,orParishchurch,nowtheCathedral,whichhadtwotowersorsteeples,inwhichhungfourbells.Themusicwasfurnishedbyaviolinandatriangle.Thewallbackofthealtarwascoveredwithinnumerablemirrors,paintings,andbright-colouredtapestry.

TheexactdateofthefirstsettlementofSantaFeisuncertain.Oneauthoritysays:


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ItwasaprimevalstrongholdbeforetheSpanishConquest,andatownofsomeimportancetothewhiteracewhenPennsylvaniawasawildernessandthefirstDutchgovernorofNewYorkwasslowlydrillingtheKnickerbockerancestryintheirdifficultevolutionsaroundthetown-pump.

Itisclaimed,onwhatisdeemedveryauthenticdatabysome,thatSantaFeisreallytheoldestsettledtownintheUnitedStates.St.Augustine,Florida,wasestablishedin1565andwasunquestionablyconcededthehonourofantiquityuntiltheacquisitionofNewMexicobytheGuadalupe-Hidalgotreaty.Then,ofcourse,SantaFestepsintothearenaandcarriesoffthelaurels.ThisclaimofprecedenceforSantaFeisbaseduponthestatement(whetherhistoricallycorrectornotisaquestion)thatwhentheSpaniardsfirstenteredtheregionfromthesouthernportionofMexico,about1542,theyfoundaverylargePueblotownonthepresentsiteofSantaFe,andthatitspriorexistenceextendedfarbackintothevanishedcenturies.Thisiscontradictedbyotherhistorians,whocontendthattheclaimofSantaFetobetheoldesttownintheUnitedStatesrestsentirelyonimaginaryannalsofanIndianPueblobeforetheSpanishConquest,andthattherearebutslightindicationsthatthetownwasbuiltonthesiteofone.[9]

ThereadermayfurthersatisfyhimselfonthesemootedpointsbyconsultingthemassofhistoricalliteratureonNewMexico,andthe

recordsofitsprimitivetimesarenotsurpassedininterestbythoseofanyotherpartofthecontinent.ItwastheretheEuropeansfirstmadegreatconquests,andsomeyearspriortothelandingofthePilgrims,ahistoryofNewMexico,beingthejournalofGeronimodeZarateSalmaron,waspublishedbytheChurchintheCityofMexico,earlyin1600.SalmaronwasaFranciscanmonk;amostzealousandindefatigableworker.Duringhiseightyears'residenceatJemez,nearSantaFe,heclaimstohavebaptizedovereightthousandIndians,convertstotheCatholicfaith.Hisjournalgivesadescriptionofthecountry,itsmines,etc.,andwasmadepublicinorderthatothermonksreadingitmightemulatehispiousexample.

Between1605and1616wasfoundedtheVillaofSantaFe,orSan

FranciscodelaSantaFe."Villa,"orvillage,wasanhonorarytitle,alwaysauthorizedandproclaimedbytheking.Bancroftsaysthatitwasfirstofficiallymentionedonthe3dofJanuary,1617.

ThefirstimmigrationtoNewMexicowasunderDonJuandeOnateabout1597,andinayearafterward,accordingtosomeauthorities,SantaFewassettled.Theplace,asclaimedbysomehistorians,wasthennamedElTeguayo,aSpanishadaptationoftheword"Tegua,"thenameofthePueblonation,whichwasquitenumerous,andoccupiedSantaFeandthecontiguouscountry.Itverysoon,fromitscentralpositionandcharmingclimate,becametheleadingSpanishtown,andthecapitaloftheProvince.TheSpaniards,whocameatfirstintothecountryasfriends,andwereapparentlyeagertoobtainthegood-willoftheintelligent

natives,shortlybegantoclaimsuperiority,andtoinsistontheperformanceofserviceswhichwereoriginallymereevidencesofhospitalityandkindness.LittlebylittletheyassumedgreaterpowerandcontrolovertheIndians,untilinthecourseofyearstheyhadsubjectedalargeportionofthemtoservitudelittledifferingfromactualslavery.

TheimpoliticzealofthemonksgraduallyinvokedthespiritofhatredandresultedinarebellionthatdrovetheSpaniards,in1680,fromthecountry.Thelargenumberofpriestswhowereleftinthemidstofthe


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nativesmetwithhorriblefates:

Notoneescapedmartyrdom.AtZuni,threeFranciscanshadbeenstationed,andwhenthenewsoftheSpanishretreatreachedthetown,thepeopledraggedthemfromtheircells,strippedandstonedthem,andafterwardscompelledtheservantofonetofinishtheworkbyshootingthem.Havingthuswhettedtheirappetiteforcrueltyandvengeance,theIndiansstartedtocarrythenewsoftheirindependencetoMoqui,andsignalizedtheirarrivalbythebarbarousmurderofthetwomissionarieswhowerelivingthere.Theirbodieswereleftunburied,asapreyforthewildbeasts.AtJemeztheyindulgedineveryrefinementofcruelty.Theoldpriest,JesusMorador,wasseizedinhisbedatnight,strippednakedandmountedonahog,andthusparadedthroughthestreets,whilethecrowdshoutedandyelledaround.Notsatisfiedwiththis,theythenforcedhimtocarrythemasabeastwould,crawlingonhishandsandfeet,until,fromrepeatedbeatingandthecrueltorturesofsharpspurs,hefelldeadintheirmidst.AsimilarchapterofhorrorswasenactedatAcoma,wherethreepriestswerestripped,tiedtogetherwithhairrope,andsodriventhroughthestreets,andfinallystonedtodeath.NotaChristianremainedfree

withinthelimitsofNewMexico,andthosewhohadbeendominantafewmonthsbeforewerenowwretchedandhalf-starvedfugitives,huddledtogetherintherudehutsofSanLorenzo.

AssoonastheSpaniardshadretreatedfromthecountry,thePuebloIndiansgavethemselvesupforatimetorejoicing,andtothedestructionofeverythingwhichcouldremindthemoftheEuropeans,theirreligion,andtheirdomination.ThearmywhichhadbesiegedSantaFequicklyenteredthatcity,tookpossessionofthePalaceastheseatofgovernment,andcommencedtheworkofdemolition.ThechurchesandthemonasteryoftheFranciscanswere

burnedwithalltheircontents,amidthealmostfranticacclamationsofthenatives.Thegorgeousvestmentsofthepriestshadbeendraggedoutbeforetheconflagration,andnowwereworninderisionbyIndians,whorodethroughthestreetsatfullspeed,shoutingforjoy.TheofficialdocumentsandbooksinthePalacewerebroughtforth,andmadefuelforabonfireinthecentreofthePlaza;andherealsotheydancedthecachina,withalltheaccompanyingreligiousceremoniesoftheoldentime.EverythingimaginablewasdonetoshowtheirdetestationoftheChristianfaithandtheirdeterminationtoutterlyeradicateevenitsmemory.ThosewhohadbeenbaptizedwerewashedwithamoleintheRioChiquito,inordertobe

cleansedfromtheinfectionofChristianity.Allbaptismalnameswerediscarded,marriagescelebratedbyChristianpriestswereannulled,theverymentionofthenamesJesusandMarywasmadeanoffence,andestuffaswereconstructedtotaketheplaceofruinedchurches.[10]

Fortwelveyears,althoughmanyabortiveattemptsweremadetorecapturethecountry,thePuebloswereleftinpossession.Onthe16thofOctober,1693,thevictoriousSpaniardsatlastenteredSantaFe,bearingthesamebannerwhichhadbeencarriedbyOnatewhenheentered


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thecityjustacenturybefore.TheconquerorthistimewasDonDiegodeVargasZapataLujan,whomtheviceroyofNewSpainhadappointedgovernorinthespringof1692,withtheavowedpurposeofhavingNewMexicoreconqueredasspeedilyaspossible.

Thusitwillbeseenthatthequaintoldcityhasbeenthesceneofmanyimportanthistoricalevents,themereoutlineofwhichIhaverecordedhere,asthisbookisnotdevotedtothehistoricalviewofthesubject.

Incontradistinctiontothequiet,sleepyoldSantaFeofhalfacenturyago,itnowpresentsallthevigour,intelligence,andbustlingprogressivenessoftheaverageAmericancityofto-day,yetstillsmacksofthatancientSpanishregime,whichgivesitacharmthatonlyitsblendedEuropeanandIndiancivilizationcouldmakepossibleafteritsamalgamationwiththeUnitedStates.

Thetouristwillnolongerfindadrowsyoldtown,andthePlazaisnolongerunfencedanduncaredfor.Abeautifulparkoftreesissurroundedbylowpalings,andinsidetheshadyenclosure,underagroupoflargecottonwoods,isacenotapherectedtothememoryoftheTerritory'sgallantsoldierswhofellintheshockofbattletosaveNewMexicototheUnionin1862,andconspicuousamongthenamescarvedontheenduringnativerockisthatofKitCarson--princeoffrontiersmen,andoneofNature'snoblemen.

AroundthePlazaoneseestheAmericanstyleofarchitectureandhearsthehumofAmericancivilization;butbeyond,andoutsidethisprettypark,thestreetsarenarrow,crooked,andhaveanancientappearance.TheretheoldSantaFeconfrontsthestranger;odd,foreign-looking,andflavouredwithallthepeculiaritieswhichmarkedtheeraofMexicanrule.Andnow,whereoncewasheardtheexcitedshoutsoftheidlecrowd,of"LosAmericanos!""LosCarros!""LaentradadelaCaravana!"asthegreatfreightwagonsrolledintothestreetsoftheoldtownfromtheMissouri,overtheSantaFeTrail,theshrillwhistleofthelocomotivefromitstrailofsteelawakenstheechoesofthemightyhills.

Asmaybeimagined,greatexcitementalwaysprevailedwheneveracaravanofgoodsarrivedinSantaFe.Particularlywasthisthecaseamongthefeminineportionofthecommunity.Thequaintoldtownturnedoutitsmixedpopulationenmassethemomenttheshoutswentupthatthetrainwasinsight.Thereisnothingthereto-daycomparabletotheanxiouslooksofthemassesastheywatchedtheheavilyfreightedwagonsrollingintothetown,theteamstersdust-begrimed,andthemulesmakingtheplacehideouswiththeirdiscordantbrayingastheyknewthattheirlongjourneywasendedandrestawaitedthem.Theimportingmerchantswereobligedtoturnovertothecustomhouseofficialsfivehundreddollarsforeverywagon-load,greatorsmall;andnomatterwhattheintrinsicvalueofthegoodsmightbe,saltorsilk,velvetsorsugar,itwasallthesame.Thenefariousdutyhadtobepaidbeforeapenny'sworthcould

betransferredtotheircounters.Ofcourse,withtheendofMexicanruleandtheacquisitionoftheProvincebytheUnitedStates,alloppositiontothetrafficoftheOldSantaFeTrailended,traderswereassuredaprofitablemarketandthepeoplepurchasedatrelativelylowprices.

WhatawonderfulchangehastakenplaceinthetrafficwithNewMexicoinlessthanthree-quartersofacentury!In1825itwasallcarriedonwithonesingleannualcaravanofprairie-schooners,andnowtherearefourrailroadsrunningthroughtheRioGrandeValley,andonedaily


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freighttrainoftheAtchison,Topeka,andSantaFeintothetownunloadsmorefreightthanwastakenthereinawholeyearwhenthe"commerceoftheprairies"wasatitsheight!

UponthearrivalofacaravaninthedaysofthesleepyregimeunderMexicancontrol,thepeopledideverythingintheirpowertomakethetimepasspleasantlyforeveryoneconnectedwithitduringtheirsojourn.Bailes,orfandangoes,asthedancingpartieswerecalledbythenatives,weregivennightly,andmanyamusinganecdotesinregardtothemarerelatedbytheold-timers.

TheNewMexicans,bothmenandwomen,hadagreatfondnessforjewelry,dress,andamusements;ofthelatter,thefandangowastheprincipal,whichwasheldinthemostfashionableplaceofresort,whereeverybelleandbeautyinthetownpresentedherself,attiredinthemostcostlymanner,anddisplayingherjewelledornamentstothebestadvantage.Tothisplaceofrecreationandpleasure,generallyalarge,capacioussaloonorinteriorcourt,allclassesofpersonswereallowedtocome,withoutchargeandwithoutinvitation.Thefestivitiesusuallycommencedaboutnineo'clockintheevening,andthetollingofthechurchbellswasthesignalfortheladiestomaketheirentrance,whichtheydidalmostsimultaneously.

NewMexicanladieswerefamousfortheirgaudydresses,butitmust

beconfessedtheydidnotexercisegoodtaste.Theirrobesweremadewithoutbodies;askirtonly,andalong,loose,flowingscarforrebosodexterouslythrownabouttheheadandshoulders,soastosupersedeboththeuseofdress-bodiesandbonnets.

Therewasverylittleordermaintainedatthesefandangoes,andstilllessattentionpaidtotherulesofetiquette.Akindofswinging,gallopadewaltzwasthefavouritedance,thecotillionnotbeingmuchinvogue.ReadByron'sgraphicdescriptionofthewaltz,andthenstretchyourimaginationtoitsutmosttension,andyouwillperhapshavesomefaintconceptionoftheMexicanfandango.Suchfamiliarityofpositionaswasindulgedinwouldberepugnanttotherefinedrulesofpolitesocietyintheeasterncities;butwiththeNewMexicans,inthoseearly

times,nothingwasconsideredtobeagreateraccomplishmentthanthatofbeingabletogohandsomelythroughallthemazesoftheirpeculiardance.

TherewasonerepublicanfeatureabouttheNewMexicanfandango;itwasthatallclasses,richandpooralike,metandintermingled,asdidtheRomansattheirSaturnalia,upontermsofequality.Sumptuousrepastsorcollationswererarelyeverpreparedforthosefrolicsomegatherings,buttherewasalwaysanabundanceofconfectionery,sweetmeats,andnativewine.ItcostverylittleforamantoattendoneofthefandangoesinSantaFe,butnottogetawaydecentlyandsober.InthatitresembledthedescentofAeneastoPluto'srealms;itwaseasyenoughtogetthere,butwhenitcametoreturn,"revocaregradum,superasque

evadereadauras,hiclabor,hocopusest."

CHAPTERII.LALANDEANDPURSLEY.

InthebeginningofthetradewithNewMexico,therouteacrossthe


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greatplainswasdirectlywestfromtheMissouriRivertothemountains,thencesouthtoSantaFebythecircuitoustrailfromTaos.Whenthetrafficassumedanimportancedemandingamoreeasylineofway,theroadwaschanged,runningalongtheleftbankoftheArkansasuntilthatstreamturnednorthwest,atwhichpointitcrossedtheriver,andcontinuedsouthwesttotheRatonPass.

TheAtchison,Topeka,andSantaFeRailroadtracksubstantiallyfollowstheTrailthroughthemountains,whichhereaffordthewildestandmostpicturesquelybeautifulsceneryonthecontinent.

TheArkansasRiveratthefordingoftheOldTrailisnotmorethanknee-deepatanordinarystageofwater,anditsbottomiswellpavedwithroundedpebblesoftheprimitiverock.

TheoverlandtradebetweentheUnitedStatesandthenorthernprovincesofMexicoseemstohavehadnoverydefiniteorigin;havingbeenrathertheresultofanaccidentthanofanyorganizedplanofcommercialestablishment.

Accordingtothebestauthorities,aFrenchcreole,namedLaLande,anagentofamerchantofKaskaskia,Illinois,wasthefirstAmericanadventurertoenterintotheuncertainchannelsoftradewiththepeopleoftheultramontaneregionofthecentreofthecontinent.Hebeganhis

adventurousjourneyacrossthevastwilderness,withnocompanionsbutthesavagesofthedebatableland,in1804;andfollowinghimthenextyear,JamesPursleyundertookthesamepilgrimage.Neitherofthesepioneersinthe"commerceoftheprairies"returnedtorelatewhatincidentsmarkedthepassageoftheirmarvellousexpeditions.Pursleywassoinfatuatedwiththestrangecountryhehadtravelledsofartoreach,thathetookuphisabodeinthequaintoldtownofSantaFewherehissubsequentlifeislostsightof.LaLande,ofadifferentmould,forgottorenderanaccountofhismissiontothemerchantwhohadsenthimthere,andbecameaprosperousandwealthymanbymeansofmoneytowhichhehadnoright.

ToCaptainZebulonPike,whoafterwardswasmadeageneral,isduethe

impetuswhichthetradewithSantaFereceivedshortlyafterhisreturntotheUnitedStates.ThestudentofAmericanhistorywillrememberthattheexpeditioncommandedbythissoldierwasinauguratedin1806;hisreportoftheroutehehadtakenwastheincentiveforcommercialspeculationinthedirectionoftradewithNewMexico,butitwassohandicappedbyrestrictionsimposedbytheMexicangovernment,thattheadventurersintotheprecarioustrafficwerenotonlysubjecttoacompleteconfiscationoftheirwares,butfrequentlyimprisonedformonthsasspies.Undersuchaconditionofaffairs,manyoftheearlierexpeditions,priorto1822,resultedindisaster,andonlyalimitednumbermetwithanindifferentsuccess.

ItwillnotbeinconsistentwithmytextifIherewithinterpolate

anincidentconnectedwithPursley,thesecondAmericantocrossthedesert,forthepurposeoftradewithNewMexico,whichIfindintheMagazineofAmericanHistory:

WhenZebulonM.PikewasinMexico,in1807,hemet,atSantaFe,acarpenter,Pursleybyname,fromBardstown,Kentucky,whowasworkingathistrade.Hehadinapreviousyear,whileouthuntingonthePlains,metwithaseriesofmisfortunes,andfoundhimselfnearthemountains.ThehostileSiouxdrovethepartyintothe


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highgroundintherearofPike'sPeak.NeartheheadwatersofthePlatteRiver,Pursleyfoundsomegold,whichhecarriedinhisshot-pouchformonths.HewasfinallysentbyhiscompanionstoSantaFe,toseeiftheycouldtradewiththeMexicans,buthechosetoremaininSantaFeinpreferencetoreturningtohiscomrades.HetoldtheMexicansaboutthegoldhehadfound,andtheytriedhardtopersuadehimtoshowthemtheplace.Theyevenofferedtotakealongastrongforceofcavalry.ButPursleyrefused,andhispatrioticreasonwasthathethoughtthelandbelongedtotheUnitedStates.HetoldCaptainPikethathefearedtheywouldnotallowhimtoleaveSantaFe,astheystillhopedtolearnfromhimwherethegoldwastobefound.ThesefactswerepublishedbyCaptainPikesoonafterhisreturneast;butnoonetookthehint,ortheriskwastoogreat,andthusmorethanahalfacenturypassedbeforethosesamerichfieldsofgoldwerefoundandopenedtotheworld.IfPursleyhadbeensomewhatlesspatriotic,andhadguidedtheMexicanstothetreasures,thewholehistoryandconditionofthewesternpartofourcontinentmighthavebeenentirelydifferentfromwhatitnowis.ThatregionwouldstillhavebeenapartofMexico,orSpainmighthavebeeninpossessionofit,owningCalifornia;and,withthegold

thatwouldhavebeenpouredintohercoffers,wouldhavebeentheleadingnationofEuropeanaffairsto-day.WecaneasilyseehowAmericanandEuropeanhistoryinthenineteenthcenturymighthavebeenchanged,ifthatadventurerfromKentuckyhadnotbeenatrueloverofhisnativecountry.

TheadventuresofCaptainEzekielWilliamsalongtheOldTrail,intheearlydaysofthecentury,tellastoryofwonderfulcourage,endurance,andpersistency.Williamswasamanofgreatperseverance,patience,anddeterminationofcharacter.HesetoutfromSt.Louisinthelatespringof1807,totrapontheUpperMissouriandthewatersoftheYellowstone,withapartyoftwentymenwhohadchosenhimastheir

leader.Aftervariousexcitingincidentsandthrillingadventures,alloftheoriginalparty,exceptWilliamsandtwoothers,werekilledbytheIndianssomewhereinthevicinityoftheUpperArkansas.Thethreesurvivors,notknowingwheretheywere,separated,andCaptainWilliamsdeterminedtotaketothestreambycanoe,andtraponhiswaytowardthesettlements,whilehislasttwocompanionsstartedfortheSpanishcountry--thatis,fortheregionofSantaFe.ThejournalofWilliams,fromwhichIshallquotefreely,istobefoundinTheLostTrappers,aworklongoutofprint.[11]Asthecountrywasanunexploredregion,hemightbeonariverthatflowedintothePacific,orhemightbedriftingdownastreamthatwasanaffluenttotheGulfofMexico.HewasinclinedtobelievethathewasonthesourcesoftheRedRiver.Hethereforeresolvedtolaunchhiscanoe,andgowhereverthestreammight

conveyhim,trappingonhisdescent,whenbeavermightbeplenty.

Thefirstcanoeheusedhemadeofbuffalo-skins.Asthiskindofwaterconveyancesoonbeginstoleakandrot,hemadeanotherofcottonwood,assoonashecametotimbersufficientlylarge,inwhichheembarkedforaport,heknewnotwhere.

MostofhisjourneyingsCaptainWilliamsperformedduringthehoursofnight,exceptingwhenhefeltitperfectlysafetotravelindaylight.Hisusualplanwastoglidealongdownthestream,untilhecametoa


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placewherebeaversignswereabundant.Therehewouldpushhislittlebarkamongthewillows,whereheremainedconcealed,exceptingwhenhewassettinghistrapsorvisitingtheminthemorning.Whenhehadtakenallthebeaverinoneneighbourhood,hewoulduntiehislittleconveyance,andglideonwardanddownwardtotryhisluckinanotherplace.

Thusforhundredsofmilesdidthissolitarytrapperfloatdownthisunknownriver,throughanunknowncountry,hereandtherelashinghiscanoetothewillowsandplantinghistrapsinthelittletributariesaround.TheupperpartoftheArkansas,forthisprovedtobetheriverhewason,[12]isverydestituteoftimber,andtheprairiefrequentlybeginsatthebankoftheriverandexpandsoneithersideasfarastheeyecanreach.Hesawvastherdsofbuffalo,andasitwastheruttingseason,thebullsweremakingawonderfulado;theprairieresoundedwiththeirlow,deepgruntingorbellowing,astheytoreuptheearthwiththeirfeetandhorns,whiskingtheirtails,anddefyingtheirrivalstobattle.Largegangsofwildhorsescouldbeseengrazingontheplainsandhillsides,andtheneighingandsquealingofstallionsmightbeheardatalltimesofthenight.

CaptainWilliamsneverusedhisrifletoprocuremeat,exceptwhenitwasabsolutelynecessary,orcouldbedonewithperfectsafety.Onoccasionswhenhehadnobeaver,uponwhichhegenerallysubsisted,he

venturedtokilladeer,andafterrefreshinghisemptystomachwithaportionoftheflesh,heplacedthecarcassinoneendofthecanoe.Itwashisinvariablecustomtosleepinhiscanoeatnight,mooredtotheshore,andoncewhenhehadlaidinasupplyofvenisonhewasstartledinhissleepbythetrampingofsomethinginthebushesonthebank.Tramp!tramp!tramp!wentthefootsteps,astheyapproachedthecanoe.HethoughtatfirstitmightbeanIndianthathadfoundouthislocality,butheknewthatitcouldnotbe;asavagewouldnotapproachhiminthatcarelessmanner.Althoughtherewasbeautifulstarlight,yetthetreesandthedenseundergrowthmadeitverydarkonthebankoftheriver,closetowhichhelay.Healwaysadoptedtheprecautionoftyinghiscanoewithapieceofrawhideabouttwentyfeetlong,whichallowedittoswingfromthebankatthatdistance;hedidthissothatincase

ofanemergencyhemightcutthestring,andglideoffwithoutmakinganynoise.Asthesoundofthefootstepsgrewmoredistinct,hepresentlyobservedahugegrizzlybearcomingdowntothewaterandswimmingforthecanoe.Thegreatanimalheldhisheadupasifscentingthevenison.Thecaptainsnatchedhisaxeasthemostavailablemeanstodefendhimselfinsuchascrape,andstoodwithituplifted,readytodriveitintothebrainsofthemonster.Thebearreachedthecanoe,andimmediatelyputhisforepawsuponthehindendofit,nearlyturningitover.Thecaptainstruckoneofthebrute'sfeetwiththeedgeoftheaxe,whichmadehimletgowiththatfoot,butheheldonwiththeother,andhereceivedthistimeaterrificblowonthehead,thatcausedhimtodropawayfromthecanoeentirely.Nothingmorewasseenofthebear,andthecaptainthoughthemusthavesunkinthestreamand

drowned.Hewasevidentlyafterthefreshmeat,whichhescentedfromagreatdistance.Inthecanoethenextmorningthereweretwoofthebear'sclaws,whichhadbeencutoffbythewell-directedblowoftheaxe.ThesewerecarefullypreservedbyWilliamsformanyyearsasatrophywhichhewasfondofexhibiting,andthehistoryofwhichhealwaysdelightedtotell.

Ashewasdescendingtheriverwithhispeltries,whichconsistedofonehundredandtwenty-fivebeaver-skins,besidessomeoftheotterandothersmalleranimals,heovertookthreeKansasIndians,whowerealso


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inacanoegoingdowntheriver,ashelearnedfromthem,tosomeposttotradewiththewhites.Theymanifestedaveryfriendlydispositiontowardstheoldtrapper,andexpressedawishtoaccompanyhim.Healsolearnedfromthem,tohisgreatdelight,thathewasontheBigArkansas,andnotmorethanfivehundredmilesfromthewhitesettlements.HewaswellenoughversedinthetreacheryoftheIndiancharactertoknowjusthowmuchhecouldreposeintheirconfidence.Hewasawarethattheywouldnotallowasolitarytrappertopassthroughtheircountrywithavaluablecollectionoffurs,without,atleast,makinganefforttorobhim.Heknewthattheirplanwouldbetogethimintoafriendlyintercourse,andthen,atthefirstopportunity,striphimofeverythinghepossessed;consequentlyhewasdeterminedtogetridofthemassoonaspossible,andtoeffectthis,hepliedhisoarswithalldiligence.TheIndians,likemostNorthAmericansavages,werelazy,andhadnodispositiontolabourinthatway,buttookitquiteleisurely,satisfiedwithbeingcarrieddownbythecurrent.Williamssoonleftthemintherear,and,ashesupposed,farbehindhim.Whennightcameon,however,ashehadworkedallday,andsleptnonethenightbefore,heresolvedtoturnasideintoabunchofwillowstotakeafewhours'rest.ButhehadnotstoppedmorethanfortyminuteswhenheheardsomeIndianspulltotheshorejustabovehimonthesamesideoftheriver.Heimmediatelyloosenedhiscanoefromitsmoorings,andglidedsilentlyaway.Herowedhardfortwoorthreehours,whenheagainpulledtothebankandtiedup.

Onlyashorttimeafterhehadlanded,heheardIndiansagaingoingonshoreonthesamesideofthestreamashimself.Asecondtimeherepeatedhistactics,slippedoutofhisplaceofconcealment,andstolesoftlyaway.Hepulledonvigorouslyuntilsometimeaftermidnight,whenhesupposedhecouldwithsafetystopandsnatchalittlesleep.Hefeltapprehensivethathewasinadangerousregion,andhisanxietykepthimwideawake.Itwasveryluckythathedidnotclosehiseyes;forashewaslyinginthebottomofhiscanoeheheardforthethirdtimeacanoelandasbefore.HewasnowperfectlysatisfiedthathewasdoggedbytheKansanswhomhehadpassedtheprecedingday,andinnoverygoodhumour,therefore,hepickeduphisrifle,andwalkeduptothebankwherehehadheardtheIndiansland.Ashesuspected,there

werethethreesavages.Whentheysawthecaptain,theyimmediatelyrenewedtheirexpressionsoffriendship,andinvitedhimtopartakeoftheirhospitality.Hestoodalooffromthem,andshookhisheadinarage,chargingthemwiththeirvillanouspurposes.Intheshort,sententiousmanneroftheIndians,hesaidtothem:"Younowfollowmethreetimes;ifyoufollowmeagain,Ikillyou!"andwheelingaroundabruptly,returnedtohiscanoe.Athirdtimethesolitarytrapperpushedhislittlecraftfromtheshoreandsetoffdownstream,togetawayfromaregionwheretosleepwouldbehazardous.Hepliedhisoarstheremainderofthenight,andsolacedhimselfwiththethoughtthatnoevilhadbefallenhim,exceptthelossofafewhours'sleep.

Whilehewasescapingfromhisvillanouspursuers,hewasrunninginto

newdangersanddifficulties.Thefollowingdayheovertookalargebandofthesametribe,undertheleadershipofachief,whowerealsodescendingtheriver.Intothehandsofthesesavageshefellaprisoner,andwasconductedtooneoftheirvillages.Theprincipalchieftheretookallofhisfurs,traps,andotherbelongings.Averyshorttimeafterhiscapture,theKansanswenttowarwiththePawnees,andcarriedCaptainWilliamswiththem.InaterriblebattleinwhichtheKansansgainedamostdecidedvictory,theoldtrapperboreaconspicuouspart,killingagreatnumberoftheenemy,andbyhisexcellentstrategybroughtaboutthesuccessofhiscaptors.When


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theyreturnedtothevillage,Williams,whohadeverbeentreatedwithkindnessbytheinhabitants,wasnowthoughttobeawonderfulwarrior,andcouldhavebeenadvancedtoallthesavagehonours;hemightevenhavebeenmadeoneoftheirprincipalchiefs.Thetribegavehimhislibertyforthegreatservicehehadrendereditinitsdifficultywithaninveteratefoe,butdecliningallprofferedpromotions,hedecidedtoreturntothewhitesettlementsontheMissouri,atthemouthoftheKaw,thecovetousoldchiefretainingallhisfurs,andindeedeverythinghepossessedexceptinghisrifle,withasmanyroundsofammunitionaswouldbenecessarytosecurehimprovisionsintheshapeofgameonhisroute.TheveterantrapperhadlearnedfromtheIndianswhilewiththemthattheyexpectedtogotoFortOsageontheMissouriRivertoreceivesomeannuitiesfromthegovernment,andhefeltcertainthathisfurswouldbethereatthesametime.

AfterleavingtheKansanshetravelledontowardtheMissouri,andsoonstruckthebeginningofthesparsesettlements.Justaseveningwascomingon,hearrivedataclusterofthreelittlelog-cabins,andwasreceivedwithgenuinebackwoodshospitalitybytheproprietor,whohadmarriedanOsagesquaw.Williamswasnotonlyveryhungry,butverytired;and,afterenjoyinganabundantsupper,hebecamestupidandsleepy,andexpressedawishtoliedown.Thegeneroustrapperaccordinglyconductedhimtooneofthecabins,inwhichthereweretwobeds,standinginoppositecornersoftheroom.Heimmediatelythrew

himselfuponone,andwassooninaverydeepsleep.Aboutmidnighthisslumbersweredisturbedbyasingularandveryfrightfulkindofnoise,accompaniedbystrugglingontheotherbed.Whatitwas,Williamswasentirelyatalosstounderstand.Therewerenowindowsinthecabin,thedoorwasshut,anditwasasdarkasEgypt.Afiercecontestseemedtobegoingon.Thereweredeepgroaningsandhardbreathings;andthesnappingofteethappearedalmostconstant.Foramomentthenoisewouldsubside,thenagainthestruggleswouldberenewedaccompaniedasbeforewithgroaning,deepsighing,andgrindingofteeth.

Thecaptain'sbed-clothesconsistedofacoupleofblanketsandabuffalo-robe,andastheterriblestrugglescontinuedheraisedhimselfupinthebed,andthrewtherobearoundhimforprotection,hisrifle

havingbeenleftinthecabinwherehishostslept,whilehisknifewasattachedtohiscoat,whichhehadhungonthecornerpostoftheotherbedsteadfromwhichthehorridstrugglesemanated.Inaninstanttherobewaspulledoff,andhewasleftuncoveredandunprotected;inanothermomentaviolentsnatchcarriedawaytheblanketuponwhichhewassitting,andhewasnearlytumbledoffthebedwithit.Asthenextthingmightbeablowinthedark,hefeltthatitwashightimetoshifthisquarters;sohemadeadesperateleapfromthebed,andalightedontheoppositesideoftheroom,callingforhishost,whoimmediatelycametohisreliefbyopeningthedoor.Williamsthentoldhimthatthedevil--orsomethingasbad,hebelieved--wasintheroom,andhewantedalight.Theaccommodatingtrapperhurriedaway,andinamomentwasbackwithacandle,thelightofwhichsoonrevealedthe

awfulmystery.ItwasanIndian,whoatthetimewasstrugglinginconvulsions,whichhewassubjectto.Hewasasuperannuatedchief,arelativeofthewifeofthehospitabletrapper,andgenerallymadehishomethere.AbsentwhenCaptainWilliamsarrived,hecameintotheroomataverylatehour,andwenttothebedheusuallyoccupied.Nooneontheclaimknewofhisbeingthereuntilhewasdiscovered,inadreadfullymangledcondition.Hewasremovedtootherquarters,andWilliams,whowasnottobefrightenedoutofanight'srest,soonsunkintosoundrepose.


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WilliamsreachedtheagencybythetimetheKansasIndiansarrivedthere,and,ashesuspected,foundthatthewilyoldchiefhadbroughtallhisbelongings,whichheclaimed,andtheagentmadethesavagesgiveupthestolenpropertybeforehewouldpaythemacentoftheirannuities.HetookhisfursdowntoSt.Louis,soldthemthereatagoodprice,andthenstartedbacktotheRockyMountainsonanothertrappingtour.

CHAPTERIII.EARLYTRADERS.

In1812aCaptainBecknell,whohadbeenonatradingexpeditiontothecountryoftheComanchesinthesummerof1811,andhaddoneremarkablywell,determinedthenextseasontochangehisobjectivepointtoSantaFe,andinsteadofthetediousprocessofbarteringwiththeIndians,tosellouthisstocktotheNewMexicans.Successfulinthis,hisfirstventure,hereturnedtotheMissouriRiverwithawell-filledpurse,andintenselyenthusiasticovertheresultofhisexcursiontothenewlyfoundmarket.

Excitedlistenerstohistalesofenormousprofitswerenotlacking,who,inspiredbytheinducementheheldouttothem,cheerfullyinvestedfivethousanddollarsinmerchandisesuitedtothedemandsofthetrade,andwereeagertoattemptwithhimthepassageofthegreatplains.Inthisexpeditiontherewerethirtymen,andtheamountofmoneyintheundertakingwasthelargestthathadyetbeenventured.Theprogressofthelittlecaravanwaswithoutextraordinaryincident,untilitarrivedat"TheCaches"ontheUpperArkansas.ThereBecknell,whowasinrealityamanofthethen"Frontier,"bold,plucky,andendowedwithexcellentsense,conceivedtheridiculousideaofstrikingdirectlyacrossthecountryforSantaFethrougharegionabsolutelyunexplored;hisexcuseforthisrashmovementbeingthathedesiredtoavoidtheroughandcircuitousmountainroutehehadtravelledonhisfirsttrip

toTaos.

Histemerityinabandoningtheknownfortheunknownwasseverelypunished,andhisbravemensuffereduntoldmisery,barelyescapingwiththeirlivesfromtheterriblestraitstowhichtheywerereduced.Nothavingtheremotestconceptionoftheregionthroughwhichtheirnewtrailwastoleadthem,andnaturallysupposingthatwaterwouldbefoundinstreamsorsprings,whentheylefttheArkansastheyneglectedtosupplythemselveswithmorethanenoughofthepreciousfluidtolastacoupleofdays.Attheendofthattimetheylearned,toolate,thattheywereinthemidstofadesert,withallthetorturesofthirstthreateningthem.

Withoutatreeorapathtoguidethem,theytookanirregularcoursebyobservationsoftheNorthStar,andtheunreliableneedleofanazimuthpocket-compass.Therewasatotalabsenceofwater,andwhenwhattheyhadbroughtwiththemintheircanteensfromtheriverwasexhausted,thirstbeganitshorribleoffice.Inashorttimebothmenandanimalswereinamentalconditionborderingondistraction.Toalleviatetheiracutetorment,thedogsofthetrainwerekilled,andtheirblood,hotandsickening,eagerlyswallowed;thentheearsofthemuleswerecutoffforthesamepurpose,butsuchasubstituteforwateronlyaddedtotheirsufferings.Theywouldhaveperishedhadnotasuperannuated


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buffalobullthathadjustcomefromtheCimarronRiver,wherehehadgonetoquenchhisthirst,suddenlyappeared,tobeimmediatelykilledandthecontentsofhisstomachswallowedwithavidity.Itisrecordedthatoneofthosewhopartookofthenauseousliquidsaidafterward,"nothinghadeverpassedhislipswhichgavehimsuchexquisitedelightashisfirstdraughtofthatfilthybeverage."

AlthoughtheywereneartheCimarron,wheretherewasplentyofwater,whichbutfortheaffairofthebuffalotheyneverwouldhavesuspected,theydecidedtoretracetheirstepstotheArkansas.

Beforetheystartedontheirretreat,however,someofthestrongestofthepartyfollowedthetrailoftheanimalthathadsavedtheirlivestotheriver,where,fillingallthecanteenswithpurewater,theyreturnedtotheircomrades,whowere,afterdrinking,abletomarchslowlytowardtheArkansas.

Followingthatstream,theyatlastarrivedatTaos,havingexperiencednofurthertrouble,butmissedthetrailtoSantaFe,andhadtheirjourneygreatlyprolongedbythefoolishendeavouroftheleadertomakeashortcutthither.

Asearlyas1815,AugusteP.Chouteauandhispartner,withalargenumberoftrappersandhunters,wentouttothevalleyoftheUpper

ArkansasforthepurposeoftradingwithIndians,andtrappingonthenumerousstreamsofthecontiguousregion.

TheislandonwhichChouteauestablishedhistrading-post,andwhichbearshisnameeventothisday,isintheArkansasRiverontheboundarylineoftheUnitedStatesandMexico.Itwasabeautifulspot,witharichcarpetofgrassanddelightfulgroves,andontheAmericansidewasaheavilytimberedbottom.

Whileoccupyingtheisland,ChouteauandhisoldhuntersandtrapperswereattackedbyaboutthreehundredPawnees,whomtheyrepulsedwiththelossofthirtykilledandwounded.TheseIndiansafterwarddeclaredthatitwasthemostfatalaffairinwhichtheywereeverengaged.It

wastheirfirstacquaintancewithAmericanguns.

ThegeneralcharacteroftheearlytradewithNewMexicowasfoundedonthesystemofthecaravan.ShedependedupontheremoteportsofoldMexico,whencewastransported,onthebacksofthepatientburroandmule,allthatwasrequiredbytheprimitivetastesoftheprimitivepeople;averytediousandslowprocess,asmaybeinferred,andthelimitedtrafficwestwardlyacrossthegreatplainswasconfinedtothisfashion.AtthedateofthelegitimateandsubstantialcommercewithNewMexico,in1824,wheeledvehicleswereintroduced,andtrafficassumedanimportanceitcouldneverhaveotherwiseattained,andwhichnow,underthevastsystemofrailroads,hasincreasedtodimensionslittledreamedofbyitsoriginatorsnearlythree-quartersofacenturyago.

ItwaseightyearsafterPursley'spilgrimagebeforethetradewithNewMexicoattractedtheattentionofspeculatorsandadventurers.Messrs.McKnight,[13]Beard,andChambers,withaboutadozencomrades,startedwithasupplyofgoodsacrosstheunknownplains,andbygoodluckarrivedsafelyatSantaFe.OnceunderthejurisdictionoftheMexicans,however,theirtroublebegan.Allthepartywerearrestedasspies,theirwaresconfiscated,andthemselvesincarceratedatChihuahua,wherethemajorityofthemwerekeptforalmostadecade.BeardandChambers,havingbysomemeansescaped,returnedtoSt.Louisin1822,and,


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notwithstandingtheirdreadfulexperience,toldoftheprospectsofthetradewiththeMexicansinsuchglowingcoloursthattheyinducedsomeindividualsofsmallcapitaltofitoutanotherexpedition,withwhichtheyagainsetoutforSantaFe.

Itwasreallytoolateintheseason;theysucceeded,however,inreachingthecrossingoftheArkansaswithoutanydifficulty,butthereaviolentsnowstormovertookthemandtheywerecompelledtohalt,asitwasimpossibletoproceedinthefaceoftheblindingblizzard.Onanisland[14]notfarfromwherethetownofCimarron,ontheSantaFeRailroad,isnowsituated,theywereobligedtoremainformorethanthreemonths,duringwhichtimemostoftheiranimalsdiedforwantoffoodandfromtheseverecold.Whentheweatherhadmoderatedsufficientlytoallowthemtoproceedontheirjourney,theyhadnotransportationfortheirgoodsandwerecompelledtohidetheminpitsdugintheearth,afterthemanneroftheoldFrenchvoyageursintheearlysettlementofthecontinent.Thismethodofsecretingfursandvaluablesofeverycharacteriscalledcaching,fromtheFrenchword"tohide."Greggthusdescribesit:

Thecacheismadebydiggingaholeintheground,somewhatintheshapeofajug,whichislinedwithdrysticks,grass,oranythingelsethatwillprotectitscontentsfromthedampnessoftheearth.Inthisplacethegoods

tobeconcealedarecarefullystowedaway;andtheapertureisthensoeffectuallyclosedastoprotectthemfromtherains.Incaching,agreatdealofskillisoftenrequiredtoleavenosignwherebythecunningsavagemaydiscovertheplaceofdeposit.Tothisend,theexcavatedearthiscarriedsomedistanceandcarefullyconcealed,orthrownintoastream,ifonebeathand.Theplaceselectedforacacheisusuallysomerollingpoint,sufficientlyelevatedtobesecurefrominundations.Ifitbewellsetwithgrass,asolidpieceofturfiscutoutlargeenoughfortheentrance.Theturfisafterwardlaidback,and,takingroot,inashorttimenosignsremainofitseverhavingbeenmolested.

However,aseverylocalitydoesnotaffordaturfysite,thecamp-fireissometimesbuiltupontheplace,ortheanimalsarepennedoverit,whicheffectuallydestroysalltraces.

FatherHennepin[15]thusdescribes,inhisquaintstyle,howhebuiltacacheonthebankoftheMississippi,in1680:

Wetookupthegreensodd,andlaiditby,anddigg'daholeintheEarthwhereweputourGoods,andcover'dthemwithpiecesofTimberandEarth,andthenputinagainthegreenTurf;sothat'twasimpossibletosuspectthatanyHolehadbeendigg'dunderit,forweflungtheEarthintotheRiver.

Aftercachingtheirgoods,BeardandthepartywentontoTaos,wheretheyboughtmules,andreturningtotheircachestransportedtheircontentstotheirmarket.

Theword"cache"stilllingersamongthe"old-timers"ofthemountainsandplains,andhasbecomeaprovincialismwiththeirdescendants;oneofthesewilltellyouthathecachedhisvegetablesinthesideofthehill;orifheisouthuntinganddesirestosecretehimselffromapproachinggame,hewillsay,"Iamgoingtocachebehindthatrock,"


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etc.

TheplacewhereBeard'slittleexpeditionwinteredwascalled"TheCaches"foryears,andthenamehasonlyfallenintodisusewithinthelasttwodecades.IrememberthegreatholesinthegroundwhenIfirstcrossedtheplains,athirdofacenturyago.

TheimmenseprofituponmerchandisetransportedacrossthedangerousTrailofthemid-continenttothecapitalofNewMexicosoonexcitedthecupidityofothermerchantseastoftheMissouri.Whenthecommonestdomesticcloth,manufacturedwhollyfromcotton,broughtfromtwotothreedollarsayardatSantaFe,andotherarticlesatthesameratiotocost,nowonderthecommercewiththefar-offmarketappearedtothosewhodesiredtosendgoodsthereaveritableGolconda.

TheimportanceofinternaltradewithNewMexico,andthepossibilitiesofitsgrowth,werefirstrecognizedbytheUnitedStatesin1824,theoriginatorofthemovementbeingMr.ThomasHartBentonofMissouri,whofrequently,fromhisplaceintheSenate,prophesiedthecominggreatnessoftheWest.HeintroducedabillwhichauthorizedthePresidenttoappointacommissiontosurveyaroadfromtheMissouriRivertotheboundarylineofNewMexico,andfromthenceonMexicanterritorywiththeconsentoftheMexicangovernment.ThesigningofthisbillwasoneofthelastactsofMr.Monroe'sofficiallife,and

itwascarriedintoeffectbyhissuccessor,Mr.JohnQuincyAdams,butunfortunatelyamistakewasmadeinsupposingthattheOsageIndiansalonecontrolledthecourseoftheproposedroute.ItwaspartiallymarkedoutasfarastheArkansas,byraisedmounds;buttravellerscontinuedtousetheoldwagontrail,andasnonegotiationshadbeenenteredintowiththeComanches,Cheyennes,Pawnees,orKiowas,thesewarliketribescontinuedtoharassthecaravanswhenthesearrivedinthebroadvalleyoftheArkansas.

TheAmericanfurtradewasatitsheightatthetimewhentheSantaFetradewasjustbeginningtoassumeproportionsworthyofnotice;thedifferencebetweenthetwoenterprisesbeingverymarked.Thefurtradewasinthehandsofimmenselywealthycompanies,whilethattoSanta

Fewascarriedonbyindividualswithlimitedcapital,who,purchasinggoodsintheEasternmarkets,hadthemtransportedtotheMissouriRiver,where,untilthetradetoNewMexicobecameafixedbusiness,everythingwaspackedonmules.Assoon,however,asleadingmerchantsinvestedtheircapital,about1824,thetradegrewintovastproportions,andwagonstooktheplaceofthepatientmule.Later,oxenweresubstitutedformules,ithavingbeendiscoveredthattheypossessedmanyadvantagesovertheformer,particularlyinbeingabletodrawheavierloadsthananequalnumberofmules,especiallythroughsandyormuddyplaces.

Foralongtime,thetraderswereinthehabitofpurchasingtheirmulesinSantaFeanddrivingthemtotheMissouri;butassoonasthatuseful

animalwasraisedinsufficientnumbersintheSouthernStatestosupplythedemand,theimportationfromNewMexicoceased,forthereasonthattheAmericanmulewasinallrespectsanimmenselysuperioranimal.

Oncemuleswereanimportantobjectofthetrade,andthosewhodealtinthemanddrovethemacrosstotheriverontheTrailmetwithmanymishaps;frequentlywholedroves,containingfromthreetofivehundred,werestolenbythesavagesenroute.Thelattersoonlearnedthatitwasaveryeasythingtostampedeacaravanofmules,for,oncepanic-stricken,itisimpossibletorestrainthem,andtheIndians


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havingstartedthemkepttheminastateoframpantexcitementbytheirblood-curdlingyells,untiltheyhaddriventhemmilesbeyondtheTrail.

Astoryistoldofasmallbandoftwelvemen,who,whileencampedontheCimarronRiver,in1826,withbutfourserviceablegunsamongthem,werevisitedbyapartyofIndians,believedtobeArapahoes,whomadeatfirststrongdemonstrationsoffriendshipandgood-will.Observingthedefencelessconditionofthetraders,theywentaway,butsoonreturnedaboutthirtystrong,eachprovidedwithalasso,andallonfoot.ThechiefthenbeganbyinformingtheAmericansthathismenweretiredofwalking,andmusthavehorses.Thinkingitfollytoofferanyresistance,theterrifiedtraderstoldthemifoneanimalapiecewouldsatisfythem,togoandcatchthem.Thistheysoondid;butfindingtheirrequestsoeasilycompliedwith,theIndiansheldalittleparleytogether,whichresultedinanewdemandformore--theymusthavetwoapiece!"Well,catchthem!"wastheacquiescentreplyoftheunfortunateband;uponwhichthesavagesmountedthosetheyhadalreadysecured,and,swingingtheirlassosovertheirheads,plungedamongthestockwithafuriousyell,anddroveofftheentirecaballadaofnearlyfivehundredheadofhorses,mules,andasses.

In1829theIndiansoftheplainsbecamesuchaterrortothecaravanscrossingtoSantaFe,thattheUnitedStatesgovernment,uponpetitionofthetraders,orderedthreecompaniesofinfantryandoneofriflemen,

undercommandofMajorBennetRiley,toescorttheannualcaravan,whichthatyearstartedfromthetownofFranklin,Missouri,thentheeasternterminusoftheSantaFetrade,asfarasChouteau'sIsland,ontheArkansas,whichmarkedtheboundarybetweentheUnitedStatesandMexico.[16]Thecaravanstartedfromtheislandacrossthedrearyrouteunaccompaniedbyanytroops,buthadprogressedonlyafewmileswhenitwasattackedbyabandofKiowas,thenoneofthemostcruelandbloodthirstytribesontheplains.[17]

Thisescort,commandedbyMajorRiley,andanotherunderCaptainWharton,composedofonlysixtydragoons,fiveyearslater,werethesoleprotectionevergivenbythegovernmentuntil1843,whenCaptainPhilipSt.GeorgeCookeagainaccompaniedtwolargecaravanstothesame

pointontheArkansasasdidMajorRileyfourteenyearsbefore.

Asthetradeincreased,theComanches,Pawnees,andArapahoescontinuedtocommittheirdepredations,anditwasfirmlybelievedbymanyofthefreightersthattheseIndianswereincitedtotheirdevilishactsbytheMexicans,whowerealwaysjealousof"LosAmericanos."

Itwasveryrarelythatacaravan,greatorsmall,orevenadetachmentoftroops,nomatterhowlarge,escapedtheraidsofthesebanditsoftheTrail.Ifthelistofthosewhowerekilledoutrightandscalped,andthosemoreunfortunatewhoweretakencaptiveonlytobetorturedandtheirbodieshorriblymutilated,couldbecollectedfromtheopeningofthetrafficwithNewMexicountiltheyears1868-69,whenGeneral

Sheridaninauguratedhismemorable"wintercampaign"againstthealliedplainstribes,andcompletelydemoralized,cowed,andforcedthemontheirreservations,aboutthetimeoftheadventoftherailroad,itwouldpresentanappallingpicture;andthenumberofhorses,mules,andoxenstampededandstolenduringthesameperiodwouldamounttothousands.

AstheexcellentnarrativeofCaptainPikeisnotreadasitshouldbebytheaverageAmerican,abriefreferencetoitmaynotbeconsideredsupererogatory.Thecelebratedofficer,whowasafterwardpromotedto


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therankofmajor-general,anddiedintheachievementofthevictoryofYork,UpperCanada,in1813,wassentin1806onanexploringexpeditionuptheArkansasRiver,withinstructionstopassthesourcesofRedRiver,forwhichthoseoftheCanadianwerethenmistaken;he,however,evenwentaroundtheheadofthelatter,andcrossingthemountainswithanalmostincredibledegreeofperilandsuffering,descendedupontheRiodelNortewithhislittleparty,thenbutfifteeninnumber.

BelievinghimselfnowonRedRiver,withinthethenassumedlimitsoftheUnitedStates,hebuiltasmallfortificationforhiscompany,untiltheopeningofthespringof1807shouldenablehimtocontinuehisdescenttoNatchitoches.AshewasreallywithinMexicanterritory,andonlyabouteightymilesfromthenorthernsettlements,hispositionwassoondiscovered,andaforcesenttotakehimtoSantaFe,whichbytreacherywaseffectedwithoutopposition.TheSpanishofficerassuredhimthatthegovernor,learningthathehadmistakenhisway,hadsentanimalsandanescorttoconveyhismenandbaggagetoanavigablepointonRedRiver(RioColorado),andthatHisExcellencydesiredverymuchtoseehimatSantaFe,whichmightbetakenontheirway.

Assoon,however,asthegovernorhadthetooconfidingcaptaininhispower,hesenthimwithhismentothecommandantgeneralatChihuahua,wheremostofhispaperswereseized,andheandhispartyweresentunderanescort,viaSanAntoniodeBexar,totheUnitedStates.

ManycitizensoftheremoteEasternStates,whowerecontemporarywithPike,declaredthathisexpeditionwasinsomewayconnectedwiththetreasonableattemptofAaronBurr.Theideaissimplypreposterous;Pike'swholelineofconductshowshimtohavebeenofthemostpatrioticcharacter;neverwouldheforamomenthavecountenancedapropositionfromAaronBurr!

AfterCaptainPike'sreporthadbeenpublishedtotheworld,theadventurerswhowereinspiredbyitsglowingdescriptionofthecountryhehadbeensofartoexploreweredestinedtoexperiencetrialsanddisappointmentsofwhichtheyhadformednoconception.

AmongthemwasacertainCaptainSublette,afamousoldtrapperintheeraofthegreatfurcompanies,andwithhimaCaptainSmith,who,althoughveteranpioneersoftheRockyMountains,weremerenovicesinthemanycomplicationsoftheTrail;buthavingbeeninthefastnessesofthegreatdivideofthecontinent,theythoughtthatwhentheygotdownontheplainstheycouldgoanywhere.Theystartedwithtwentywagons,andlefttheMissouriwithoutasingleoneofthepartybeingcompetenttoguidethelittlecaravanonthedangerousroute.

FromtheMissouritheTrailwasbroadandplainenoughforachildtofollow,butwhentheyarrivedattheCimarroncrossingoftheArkansas,notatraceofformercaravanswasvisible;nothingbuttheinnumerablebuffalo-trailsleadingfromeverywheretotheriver.

Whenthepartyenteredthedesert,orDryRoute,asitwasyearsafterwardalways,andveryproperly,calledincertainseasonsofdrought,thebravebuttooconfidentmendiscoveredthatthewholeregionwasburntup.Theywanderedonforseveraldays,thehorrorsofdeathbythirstconstantlyconfrontingthem.Watermustbehadortheywouldallperish!AtlastSmith,inhisdesperation,determinedtofollowoneofthenumerousbuffalo-trails,believingthatitwouldconducthimtowaterofsomecharacter--alakeorpoolorevenwallow.Heleftthetrainalone;askedfornoonetoaccompanyhim;forhewas


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theveryimpersonationofcourage,oneofthemostfearlessmenthatevertrappedinthemountains.

Hewalkedonandonformiles,when,onascendingalittledivide,hesawastreaminthevalleybeneathhim.ItwastheCimarron,andhehurriedtowardittoquenchhisintolerablethirst.Whenhearrivedatitsbank,tohisdisappointmentitwasnothingbutabedofsand;thesometimeclearrunningriverwasperfectlydry.

Onlyforamomentwashestaggered;heknewthecharacterofmanystreamsintheWest;thatoftentheirwatersrununderthegroundatashortdistancefromthesurface,andinamomenthewasonhiskneesdiggingvigorouslyinthesoftsand.Soonthecovetedfluidbegantofilterupwardsintothelittleexcavationhehadmade.Hestoopedtodrink,andinthenextsecondadozenarrowsfromanambushedbandofComanchesenteredhisbody.Hedidnotdieatonce,however;itisrelatedbytheIndiansthemselvesthathekilledtwooftheirnumberbeforedeathlaidhimlow.

CaptainSubletteandSmith'sothercomradesdidnotknowwhathadbecomeofhimuntilsomeMexicantraderstoldthem,havinggotthereportfromtheverysavageswhocommittedthecold-bloodedmurder.

Gregg,inhisreportofthislittleexpedition,says:

Everykindoffatalityseemstohaveattendedthissmallcaravan.Amongothercasualties,aclerkintheircompany,namedMinter,waskilledbyabandofPawnees,beforetheycrossedtheArkansas.This,Ibelieve,istheonlyinstanceoflossoflifeamongthetraderswhileengagedinhunting,althoughthescarcityofaccidentscanhardlybesaidtobetheresultofprudence.Thereisnotadaythathuntersdonotcommitsomeindescretion;suchasstrayingatadistanceoffiveandeventenmilesfromthecaravan,frequentlyalone,andseldominbandsofmorethantwoorthreetogether.Inthisstate,theymustfrequentlybespiedbyprowlingsavages;sothatfrequencyofescape,

undersuchcircumstances,mustbepartlyattributedtothecowardiceoftheIndians;indeed,generallyspeaking,thelatterareverylothtochargeuponevenasinglearmedman,unlesstheycantakehimatadecidedadvantage.

Notlongafter,thisbandofCaptainSublette'sverynarrowlyescapedtotaldestruction.TheyhadfalleninwithanimmensehordeofBlackfeetandGrosVentres,and,asthetraderswereliterallybutahandfulamongthousandsofsavages,theyfanciedthemselvesforawhileinimminentperilofbeingvirtually"eatedup."ButasCaptainSublettepossessedconsiderableexperience,hewasatnolosshowtodealwiththesetreacheroussavages;sothat

althoughthelatterassumedathreateningattitude,hepassedthemwithoutanyseriousmolestation,andfinallyarrivedatSantaFeinsafety.

ThevirtualcommencementoftheSantaFetradedatesfrom1822,andoneofthemostremarkableeventsinitshistorywasthefirstattempttointroducewagonsintheexpeditions.Thiswasmadein1824byacompanyoftraders,abouteightyinnumber,amongwhomwereseveralgentlemenofintelligencefromMissouri,whocontributedbytheirsuperiorskillandundauntedenergytorendertheenterprisecompletelysuccessful.A


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portionofthiscompanyemployedpack-mules;amongtherestwereownedtwenty-fivewheeledvehicles,ofwhichoneortwowerestoutroad-wagons,twowerecarts,andtherestDearborncarriages,thewholeconveyingsometwenty-fiveorthirtythousanddollars'worthofmerchandise.ColonelMarmaduke,ofMissouri,wasoneoftheparty.ThiscaravanarrivedatSantaFesafely,experiencingmuchlessdifficultythantheyanticipatedfromafirstattemptwithwheeledvehicles.

Greggcontinues:

Theearlyvoyageurs,havingbutseldomexperiencedanymolestationfromtheIndians,generallycrossedtheplainsindetachedbands,eachindividualrarelycarryingmorethantwoorthreehundreddollars'worthofstock.Thispeacefulseason,however,didnotlastverylong;anditisgreatlytobefearedthatthetraderswerenotalwaysinnocentofhavinginstigatedthesavagehostilitiesthatensuedinafteryears.Manyseemedtoforgetthewholesomeprecept,thattheyshouldnotbesavagesthemselvesbecausetheydealtwithsavages.Insteadofcultivatingfriendlyfeelingswiththosefewwhoremainedpeacefulandhonest,therewasanoccasionalonealwaysdisposedtokill,evenincoldblood,everyIndianthatfellintotheirpower,merelybecausesomeofthetribehadcommittedanoutrage

eitheragainstthemselvesorfriends.Asaninstanceofthis,herelatesthefollowing:

In1826twoyoungmennamedMcNessandMonroe,havingcarelesslylaindowntosleeponthebankofacertainstream,sinceknownasMcNessCreek,[18]werebarbarouslyshot,withtheirownguns,asitwassupposed,intheverysightofthecaravan.Whentheircomradescameup,theyfoundMcNesslifeless,andtheotheralmostexpiring.InthisstatethelatterwascarriednearlyfortymilestotheCimarronRiver,wherehedied,andwasburiedaccordingtothecustomoftheprairies,averysummaryproceeding,

necessarily.Thecorpse,wrappedinablanket,itsshroudtheclothesitwore,isinterredinaholevaryingindepthaccordingtothenatureofthesoil,anduponthegraveispiledstones,ifanyareconvenient,topreventthewolvesfromdiggingitup.JustasMcNess'sfuneralceremonieswereabouttobeconcluded,sixorsevenIndiansappearedontheoppositesideoftheCimarron.Someofthepartyproposedinvitingthemtoaparley,whiletherest,burningforrevenge,evincedadesiretofireuponthematonce.Itismorethanprobable,however,thattheIndianswerenotonlyinnocentbutignorantoftheoutragethathadbeencommitted,ortheywouldhardlyhaveventuredtoapproachthecaravan.Beingquickofperception,theyverysoonsaw

thebelligerentattitudeassumedbythecompany,andthereforewheeledroundandattemptedtoescape.Oneshotwasfired,whichbroughtanIndiantotheground,whenhewasinstantlyriddledwithballs.Almostsimultaneouslyanotherdischargeofseveralgunsfollowed,bywhichalltherestwereeitherkilledormortallywounded,exceptone,whoescapedtobearthenewstohistribe.

Thesewantoncrueltieshadamostdisastrouseffectupontheprospectsofthetrade;fortheexasperatedchildrenof


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thedesertbecamemoreandmorehostiletothe"pale-faces,"againstwhomtheycontinuedtowageacruelwarformanysuccessiveyears.Infactthispartysufferedveryseverelyafewdaysafterward.TheywerepursuedbytheenragedcomradesoftheslainsavagestotheArkansasRiver,wheretheywererobbedofnearlyathousandhorsesandmules.

Theauthorofthisbook,althoughhavingbutlittlecompassionfortheIndians,mustadmitthat,duringmorethanathirdofacenturypassedontheplainsandinthemountains,hehasneverknownofawarwiththehostiletribesthatwasnotcausedbybrokenfaithonthepartoftheUnitedStatesoritsagents.Iwillrefertotwoprominentinstances:thatoftheoutbreakoftheNezPerces,andthatofthealliedplainstribes.Withtheformerasolemntreatywasmadein1856,guaranteeingtothemoccupan

THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL By Colonel Henry Inman & Buffalo Bill Cody

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