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2/9/2019 The Mills Remembers Hong Kong’s Textile Past and Promotes Its Future – WWD
https://wwd.com/fashion-news/textiles/vanessa-cheung-the-mills-nan-fung-group-1203002180/ 1/5
The Mills Remembers Hong Kong’s
Textile Past and Promotes Its
FutureFormer cotton mills get a new lease on life as a start-up incubator,museum and shop floor, thanks to Nan Fung Group's Vanessa Cheung.
FASHION / TEXTILES
By Tiffany Ap on February 8, 2019
@Tiffany Ap
HONG KONG — Like a lot of children who grow up in magnate
families, Vanessa Cheung wasn’t so sure she wanted to work for
the family business.
Cheung’s grandfather, Chen Din Hwa, founded Nan Fung Group
as a textiles business in 1954. It was the days before Mainland
China had opened up as an option for global manufacturing and
Chen’s business grew quickly, earning him a place in the
billionaires’ club and the nickname the “king of cotton yarn.” At
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its textiles operations height, Nan Fung employed more than
3,000 people to operate in their mills, producing up to 32.5
million pounds of yarn a year.
But the industry migrated across the border into China proper
in the Eighties — lured by cheap labor and other costs at a
fraction of the price — and Nan Fung shifted gears, focusing
instead on developing a property empire across East Asia. The
textiles operations faded away and by the time Cheung, who had
embarked on a career as a landscape architect, was convinced to
join Nan Fung, three of the former six mills the company owned
had been turned into residential units, and the other three
simply were used as warehouse space.
It was those three remaining disused mills that caught her
attention. Although her main duty as a managing director of the
group is to oversee the Hong Kong property portfolio, she had
the idea to reinvigorate those buildings. The undertaking, which
became The Mills, transformed the buildings into a hub with
three pillars: Fabrica, a start-up incubator; the Shopfloor, a retail
space providing artisanal coffee and independent boutiques,
and the Centre for Heritage, Arts and Textiles, which hosts
exhibitions related to the craft.
“When I joined the company, it was the 60th anniversary,”
Cheung told WWD. “I was quite inspired by the company’s
history, which a lot of the people at the company didn’t know
much about and I thought it would be a good way to use this
opportunity to celebrate the company history and the textile
industry’s history.”
“At first we thought of just building it as a museum, but thought
it could be too boring,” she said. “And also, it’s quite a big space.
We wanted to bring in things that could be more applicable to
the future, as well, and also have a viable business model. Then
we added in the incubator and coworking side and also a retail
side.”
The process of transforming the former factories, which bore a
construction cost of 700 million Hong Kong dollars, or $89
million, provided many insights for Cheung. Although the
family’s original fortune came via textiles, she was too young to
have direct exposure to it herself growing up other than the tales
her grandfather would tell at the dinner table.
“I knew it was a big industry in the Fifties, Sixties and even the
Seventies, but I didn’t know it was that big,” Cheung shared.
“Every person I talked to, even government officials, has at least
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2/9/2019 The Mills Remembers Hong Kong’s Textile Past and Promotes Its Future – WWD
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one relative if not immediate family member who was working
in the factories in Hong Kong at the time. That was really
surprising to me and how much pride they had in their job at
work.”
According to the South China Morning Post, the city’s English
newspaper of record, textiles and garments production formed
Hong Kong’s biggest industries starting in the Fifties,
continuing for nearly four decades.
During The Mills’ grand opening in December, the company
invited back several former factory workers, now well into
retirement, some of whom had even kept their aprons and staff
cards.
However, as much as The Mills is a look into the past, the project
is designed to be forward-thinking and the hope is to inspire the
current generation of Hong Kong-ers to become interested in
the field.
With the incubator Fabrica, The Mills takes entrepreneurs either
in the fields of “tech” or “style” — a play on the word “textile”
and helps them develop their business concept.
“It could also be wearables and we’ve been working with
emphasis on sustainability with an environmental impact or
social impact. It’s not limited to just fashion design,” Cheung
said.
There are 10 such entrepreneurs at the moment, although
there’s no formal cap on the number, nor a set duration of
mentorship or take-in date. Cheung wants it to be as practical as
possible and offers help when the start-ups need it and for as
long as they want it.
“We teach them business skills, how to network and we also take
them with us to lots of conferences,” she said. “We match them
up with manufacturers — real concrete help that will help their
business, not just [giving] money.”
“I think a lot of times now businesses don’t necessarily require a
retail front or a shop space,” Cheung noted. For the most part,
the start-ups don’t see getting a shop front as a big milestone or
measure of success, or office space, for that matter. “The start-
ups that we talk to, they don’t even want an office space. They
work from home or just want more flexible space.”
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At CHAT, the gallery section, the focus is to spark community
involvement. Sometimes that’s as straightforward as offering
knitting and crocheting classes to the public, or it could mean
inviting artists to think up interactive projects.
One project saw an artist build the basic structure of a dragon
before inviting the public to help weave the rest of the body with
him. The dragon was eventually used in a traditional dance at
The Mills’ grand opening ceremony.
Another workshop paired young designers to work with an
innovative antibacterial fabric to make aprons for neighborhood
wet market vendors.
“We’d pair a young aspiring designer with actual vegetable stall
vendors, fish mongers, butchers, to understand their needs and
design a new kind of apron they would use according to their
trade,” Cheung said. “That became a very successful initiative
and campaign. People wanted to buy these aprons, and we came
up with a domestic friendly version of the apron as well and we
sold them over the holiday period.”
The goal isn’t to make a profit with The Mills’ activities, but
“we hope it will be a self-sustaining project,” Cheung said.
China
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