AEROSTYLEREVIEW

ISSUE 2

The Early Days of Knitted Sportswear

The 1930’s: The Golden Age of Alpine Skiing

The Silver Darlings: Bringing in The Herring

The Fair Isle: Scotland’s Most Iconic Knitwear

Dressed To Kill: Knitting for The Armed Forces

Hand Knitting on The Isle of Harris

A Night at The Movies: A Few of Our Favourites

The Knitwear EditionA Century of Scottish Knitwear

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Front Cover: Hand Knitted Harris Roll Neck worn under an Aero Leather Shackleton Waistcoat (Photo by Neil Davidson)

This Page: Hand Knitted Fair Isle worn with Harris Tweed Cap, Aero CC41 Shirt and Aero Harris Tweed Trousers (Photo by Neil Davidson)

Design by Raissa Pardini

Product Photos by Dominick O’Donnell

Words by Ken Calder

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The Early Days of Knitted Sportswear We take a closer look at the sweater that inspired the Polo shirt and how the advent of Sportswear helped save the knitwear industry in Great Britain in the 1920s.

The 1930s: The Golden Era of Alpine SkiingWhen Winter snow became an asset to Scotland, rather than an annual hardship, many of the pioneering skiers considered a heavy knitted pullover an essential part of their protective clothing.

The Silver Darlings: Bringing In The Herring The Highland Clearances forced many to resort to trawling for The Herring to put food on their table, the most practical of the clothing that kept those hardy sea-faring folk warm continues to be made to this day.

The Fair Isle Pullover: The Knitting of a LegendTracing the history of Fair Isle knitting back to the 19th century, how Edward VIII became the flag bearer for the style during the 1920s and the importance of the designs to the “Make Do And Mend” project.

Dressed to Kill: Military KnitwearLooking at the importance of warm and serviceable clothing to the troops, whether they were serving their country on land, on sea or in the air and how volunteers did their bit for the war effort.

A Long Tradition of Hand-Knitting on the Isle Of HarrisNothing much has changed over the centuries in one of the most remote areas in Scotland, the Islanders are still knitting the local wool into traditional knitwear and the sheep still roam free.

A Night at The MoviesMoving away from the subject of knitting, this is our opportunity to share a few of the films which have inspired us during the researching of this issue. OK, we’ve not moved that far from our brief, most of them do have a sweater or three to keep us on message!

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Page by Page: THE CONTENTS

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Prior to the 1920s there had been little available in the way of what we’d recognise today as sportswear. Ladies and Gentlemen tended to wear formal clothing to compete in sports, golfers wore a suit, shirt and tie while ladies wore dresses with ankle length skirts to go cycling or play tennis. As sport became less and less the prerogative of the privileged classes, it became far more

common for what was snobbishly known as “the working man” to take up sports such as cricket, athletics and even tennis. After five years of full production for the military, the end of WW1 meant that knitwear companies all over Scotland found their order books suddenly empty as government contracts came to an abrupt end. Desperate to keep their staff in work, factories turned their attention to sportswear.

One of the first designs to be commercially available was an Eton collared pullover. An early forerunner of both the classic jersey tracksuit top the polo shirt, this is the garment that inspired the Fred Perry and Ralph Lauren’s Polo shirt.

It wasn’t long before stores such as Lilywhites and Gamages offered their versions and this stylish pullover soon became one the most popular sportswear designs of the decade, ideal for most sports and smart casual wear.

“As relevant today as it was 100 years ago”

Above: Golf Legend Harry Vardon in formal attire (circa 1908-1914).

Above: A group of 1920s cyclists: Gentleman (second Right) sports an Eton Collar Pullover.

Above: Coldstream Cricket Club (1920) -“just down the road” from Aero. Five team members sporting the classic sports sweater.

The Early Days of Knitted Sportswear

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The Aero version of this classic 1920s Eton Collar Sports Sweater is knitted in Scotland using pure Shetland Wool and is available in a choice of three colours. Cream, Nutmeg and Dusty Blue.

While it’s ideal for leisure wear, it’s also perfect for presenting a more stylish appearance while participating in a variety of sports such as cricket, golf, cycling or tennis. Indeed it’s as relevant

today as it was a hundred years ago and gives another meaning to the term, “What goes around, comes around” carrying on the long tradition of high grade knitwear from The Scottish Borders.

The Aero Eton Sports Sweater: Available in May in a choice of three colours: Cream, Nutmeg and Dusty Blue.

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The popularity of, and access to, Winter Sports greatly increased... I almost said snowballed... during the 1920s and 1930s, Alpine Skiing had unexpectedly become a huge success in the United States as well as in Europe.

It rapidly made the transition from an exotic leisure pursuit, indulged by the privileged few, to become a worldwide participant sport enjoyed by the general public by the late 1930s. We would have kept the

design simple with comfort at a premium, a high roll neck to keep the wind out would be a must and we’d have sourced the very best and warmest wool available…which is exactly what we’ve done in the creation of our new “Cairngorm” Ski sweater!

We located the heaviest, thickest, most comfortable wool we could find, a beautifully flecked blend of 30% Cashmere and 70% Merino Wool from Italy and had it knitted in Scotland into a Roll Neck which weighs in at an impressive 1 ½ lbs. Consider the fact that a normal Cashmere Pullover weights around a third of that, the warmth factor of our incredible Cairngorm sweater is immense and yet it feels totally luxurious against the skin.

While clothing manufacturers scrambled to produce specialist Skiwear to satisfy the surge in demand, most participants looked for the thickest, warmest sweater available, knitwear being unrestrictive yet warm.

First choice was a heavy Roll Neck sweater, even competitive Skiers wore these, which led us to consider what Aero would have made had we been around back then?

“Simple with comfort at a premium”

Above: 1920’s Minnesota Ski Jump Team - almost all sporting a heavy roll neck weater.

Available in September 2018 in a choice of three heavily flecked colourways, base colours are Dark Grey, Brown and Pale Grey.

The 1930s: The Golden Age of Alpine Skiing

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When the crofters were driven from their fertile Straths during the Highland Clearances many were housed on inhospitable, barren land on the wild and windswept shores of Caithness and Sutherland and were left with no option other than to fish for the herring to feed their families. A thick layer of wool to provide some warmth under the most basic oilskin was essential and what they wore was a traditional Scottish Fisherman’s jersey, lovingly hand knitted in front of a roaring peat fire during those long Highland winters. We’ve recreated a typical example in flecked Donegal Merino wool. Our sweater follows a traditional Scottish pattern passed down from generation to generation, but we’ve slightly redesigned the neck for both comfort and extra warmth. The roll is knitted in a tube for strength, designed not to be restrictive and has extra length to allow standing to protect the face when necessary.

made Roll Neck sweaters available in the mid 20th Century 1940s. The quality is superb and is designed to the match the standards required to comply with the CC41 regulations in force between 1941 and 1954. Utility clothing had a special label to denote that it was an approved design and high quality. We’ve fitted a replica label for added authenticity. CC41 stands for Controlled Commodity 1941. The striking design (below) was created by Reginald Shipp and was used on all wartime utility grade clothing.

We’ve chosen Merino wool from sheep originally native to Southern Spain where the warm climate was ideal for the growth of its fine soft fleece. The breed has since then

been improved over the centuries to gain its soft luxurious quality of wool but we wanted a heavier sweater so we’ve doubled up on the weight by using two strands of wool where one is usually used. These beautiful sweaters are knitted to replica the commercially

“A traditional Scottish pattern passed down from generation to generation”

Merino Roll Neck: Currently available in Blue or Brown.

The Silver Darlings : Bringing in The Herring

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Fair Isle patterns have been knitted for centuries. The style originated on Fair Isle, a small island amongst the Shetland Isles, and gradually found their way, often by word of mouth, throughout the far North of Scotland and eventually to all four corners of the Earth.

The earliest examples of “Fair Isle” knitting in the Shetland Museum are two caps that date to the 1860s. The National Museum of Scotland has similar early Fair Isle pieces dating to the 1850s

Above: Fair Isle Knitter (circa 1910).

although neither exhibit the subtle elegance of 1920s Fair Isle knitting which was by now widely exported to mainland Scotland and to the rest of Great Britain.

It was also around this time that Fair Isle pullovers first became fashionable. In 1921 The Prince of Wales, later to become Edward VIII, was seen wearing a Fair Isle, a pullover that became one of his most celebrated items of clothing depicted in the oil painting “Royal Friends”, a portrait of Edward and his dog by John St Helier Lander.

“The subtle elegance of 1920s Fair Isle knitting”

Above: Aero’s Limited Edward VIII Pullover - available now.

Above: ‘Royal Friends’ by John St Helier Lander.

The Fair Isle Pullover: Scotland’s Most Iconic Knitwear

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By the 1930s commercial knitting patterns for Fair Isles were widely available and hand knitting became a very popular pastime, especially during the dark days of 1940s, when the craft became an important part of the war effort. Often the womenfolk whiled away the tedious evenings of the ‘black-out’ gathered around a peat fire listening to the radio and knitting sweaters for the family. The “Make-Do-And-Mend” attitude, and the Utility ethos for absolute economy of raw materials, meant that Fair Isle patterns were particular favourites. They used up all sorts of odds and ends of different coloured wool, often unravelled from old sweaters now past wearing while the bright colours became a symbol of hope in a rather “Black & White” World.

Above: Aero’s Grey Shetland Sleeveless (left) and Oatmeal Shetland Sleeveless (right) Fair Isles - limited availability.

Paul McCartney wearing a Fair Isle in Magical Mystery Tour Circa 1967.

The popularity of the Fair Isle continued through the 1950s, many US servicemen returning to The States had brought examples back home inspiring a surge in demand from North America while back here in Scotland there were very few schoolboys who didn’t grow up dressed in a Fair Isle, often a hand-me-down from an older brother. During the 1960s Fair Isles became high fashion items with

“The popularity and relevance of the designs continues to this day”

International fashion Bibles such as Vogue magazine regularly featuring examples by influential London boutiques Ruskin and Edwina & Lena. This, no doubt, led to the style becoming favoured by rock stars, perhaps most famously Paul McCartney who was often photographed wearing one during his Mull of Kintyre idyll. The popularity and relevance of the designs continues to this day.

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For many years Aero offered a range of hand knitted Fair Isles, sadly one by one of our fabulous knitters have retired and the skill base needed to produce these unique sweaters has dwindled. This left us with only one option, to find a commercial knitter capable of reproducing a machine knit Fair Isle using original vintage hand knitting patterns to ensure that the design and the fit were both true to the era. We also wanted a pure wool pullover knitted in Scotland and to make the task even more difficult, we wanted the finished pullover to look “hand knitted”. We are delighted to say these beautiful pullovers fulfil every one of our demands.

Over the years we’ve amassed a large archive of original 1930’s and 1940’s Fair Isle knitting patterns and original period made pullovers and we will continue to bring out new versions of these classics faithfully following the old patterns. Last year we introduced a Limited Edition replica of Edward VIII’s famous Fair Isle, this year we’ve recreated the three original patterns shown on this double page.

Above: Aero’s Long Sleeve “V” neck pullover. Avaiable from May 2018.

Above: Aero’s Long Sleeve crew neck pullover. Avaiable from May 2018.

“These beautiful pullovers fulfil every one of our demands ”

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Above: Aero’s Sleeveless ‘Snowflake’ Fair Isle: The Snowflake Pattern originated from a lady’s cardigan from the 1940s, another piece from our collection. Available from April 2018.

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Woollen knitwear, whether factory made issue clothing or hand knitted garments made by volunteers, provided much needed protection to servicemen operating in the most extreme environments.

When war broke out in September 1939, Quartermaster’s stores across Great Britain found themselves very short of basic issue clothing. In the rush to produce suitable clothing for the troops, some of the earliest knitwear fell far below the quality required.

In 1941 the “Warnorm” quality control scheme for issued knitted garments was introduced and, in order to meet the new standards required, knitwear had to be of a very high quality. Although many of these original garments can still be found in perfectly wearable condition, these are not really affordable as they are now highly sought after by collectors.

After studying many original pieces Aero have decided to recreate several of the rarer examples of the “Comfort Committee” hand knitted sweaters alongside a few military issue roll neck sweaters, all built to comply with the strictest of the “Warnorm” regulations. Sadly, very little knitwear issued to The British Armed Forces today matches the quality of the 1940s - most are synthetic and none are of the quality of the current Aero recreations.

Above: British schoolgirls doing their part for the war effort (1939).

Above: Original “Warnorm” Label.

Many enlisted men had to rely on garments knitted at home by relatives or friends either individually or as part of Knitting Circles, Comforts Committees or Red Cross schemes.

Commercial knitting patterns for specific items were readily available. Along with the WVS and Women’ Guild, school children across the country were encouraged to volunteer to help the war effort.

“Sadly, very little knitwear issued

to the British Armed Forces today matches the quality

of the 1940s”

Dressed to Kill: The Armed Forces

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The Submariner’s roll neck sweater has become legendary. There were several versions issued, but we feel the 1941 Pattern Submariner sweater was the best of the lot and that’s the one we’ve chosen to replicate.

Our version of this classic roll neck sweater is available in Off White and Navy Blue. It’s knitted in Scotland exclusively for Aero in heavy duty 6 ply Shetland Wool specially selected to best replicate the wool used in the sweaters worn by hardy sailors in the harshest of conditions during the conflict. The neck is designed for both comfort and warmth, the roll has extra length to allow to be worn fully raised to protect the face against the elements. We’ve sewn a facsimile of an original War Department label (below) onto the ribbing on the left hand side. The use of external labels was experimented with on various items of issue knitwear for ease of size identification in Quartermaster’s Stores.

Above: Our Navy and Off-White Submariner, both available now.

Left: the authentic Submarine Label.

“Worn by hardy sailors in the harshest of conditions”

The Royal Navy

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The Army were also kitted out with a variety of different knitwear. Aero have chosen to recreate the Extreme Cold Weather Paratrooper’s Pullover originally issued to Airborne Troops and S.O.E operatives during WW2. Like our Royal Navy sweaters this classic Olive Drab Roll Neck Sweater is knitted in Scotland, using heavy duty 6 ply Olive Drab Shetland Wool, and is built to comply with the standards demanded by the “Warnorm” scheme. The neck is designed for both comfort and warmth, the roll is knitted to be unrestrictive with extra length to allow to be worn fully raised, protecting the face against the worst of elements.

Above: Our Paratrooper Rollneck Sweater in Olive - available now.

Above: Captain Desmond Hubble (circa 1944).

This sweater was suited for S.O.E operatives on undercover operations behind enemy lines as it doubled for a civilian garment with the label removed. For autenticity, we’ve sewn a facsimile of an original War Department label onto the ribbing on the left hand side. Pictured left is a true war hero, S.O.E. operative Captain Desmond Ellis Hubble, immediately prior to being parachuted into France on a clandestine mission. He is kitted out with the mandatory beret and wears an Airborne Troop sweater under his civilian clothing.

“Ideally suited for

S.O.E. operatives on undercover operations”

The British Army

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Aero’s flagship sweater, this stunning historically correct WW2 recreation, is a perfect replica of the hand knitted Roll Neck Sweaters knitted by volunteers right through the hostilities on behalf of The Royal Air Force Comfort Committee to provide much need clothing for service personnel and prisoners of war.

Knitted garments and ‘Comforts’ were a very important wartime contribution towards kitting out the Defence Forces whether they were in the Royal Navy, RAF, Army or Auxiliary forces and for distribution by The Red Cross to Prisoners Of War.

By April 1943, there were between 6,000 and 7,000 volunteer knitting parties across Britain all doing their bit for the war effort and given official recognition by way of certificates and badges.

They used knitting patterns approved by both The RAF and The Admiralty, while the wool, generally blue or cream, was supplied by weight free of charge to the individual households or knitting groups.

Above: WW2 Comforts Committee knitting pattern Left: Comforts Committee badge.

Above: Our Blue and Natural R.A.F. Comforts Committee Roll Neck Sweaters - available now.

Our sweater is hand knitted in Scotland using the original RAF pattern and the same stiff, heavy 5-ply wool chosen to perfectly match the original volunteer made sweaters.

“Aero’s flagship sweater”

Royal Air Force

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For many centuries past, and still to this day, the crofters and fishermen on the Outer Hebrides have worn heavy woollen sweaters hand knitted using the same wool used to weave Harris Tweed. No other wool stands up to the rain and winds on the remote islands like that of the hardy native sheep and a sweater knitted in this heavy wool offers better wind and rain resistance than any other wool. Since time immemorial wild and hardy sheep have roamed the Hebridean Islands their heavy wool protecting them from the elements. This wool has always been harvested by the islanders every summer and, after processing, is hand knitted into heavy sweaters or woven into the cloth that became known as “Harris Tweed”.Some of this locally produced wool would have been dyed using vegetable dyes and some used in its natural uncoloured state. Following dyeing, the wool was mixed, oiled, teased and carded prior to being drawn out for spinning by the local crofter’s wives and daughters.

Above: Our Harris Wool Roll Neck in Green/Blue paired with our Shackleton Waistcoat - both

available now.

“The old- fashioned charm of The Outer Hebrides”

A Long Tradition of Hand-Knitting on the Isle Of Harris

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Rust Harris Wool Roll Neck : Opposite Page : Green/Blue Roll Neck paired with Shackleton

Waistcoat - both available now.

A Long Tradition of Hand-Knitting on the Isle Of Harris

Today these mothers, daughters and grannies are still hand knitting traditional Hebridean Knitwear, such as these fine sweaters, in the same way generations of their ancestors did in a time long since past, we think they look great teamed with an Aero Leather Shackleton jerkin and a pair of our CC41 Corduroy Trousers. We’ve been lucky enough to find a small number of hand knitters

on The Isle of Harris who knit these stunning traditional roll neck sweaters for Aero. The shades available vary from delivery to delivery although we usually have Rust, the colour traditionally considered the most iconic shade of all Harris knitwear and Tweed. We’ve learnt to accept that our knitters are a law unto themselves so the truth is

we’re never quite sure what each parcel will contain. Sometimes, when a knitter has run low on wool, we get a bundle of socks in with a few sweaters but that unpredictability is just part of the old fashioned charm of The Outer Hebrides and the beautifully knitted socks (left) are a real bonus.

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Chariots Of Fire (1981) An internationally acclaimed drama that earned four Oscars and two British Film Academy Awards, Chariots of Fire tells the fact based tale of two determined young men as they prepare to compete in the British field and track team at the 1924 Paris Olympic Games.

Two Faced Woman (1941) Greta Garbo stars as a married ski instructor who fears her new husband will be tempted to cheat with his ex-girlfriend when he visits New York. Posing as her own twin sister, she attempts to lure him away from her threatening rival and puts his fidelity to the test. This comedy was to be Garbo’s last film.

The Cheviot, the Stag, & the Black, Black, Oil (1974) A truly magnificent film by The BBC and The 7:84 Theatre Group which traces the exploitation of the indigenous folk of the Scottish Highlands throughout history, from the brutal Highland Clearances of the 18th century, to the stag hunts during the 19th century and finally the plundering of Scotland’s natural resources during the 1970s North Sea Oil boom. Essential viewing. Now available on DVD.

The Imitation Game (2014) Based on the true story of legendary cryptanalyst Alan Turing (played by Benedict Cumberbatch). The film portrays the nail-biting race against time by Turing and his team of brilliant code-breakers at Britain's top-secret Government Code and Cypher School at Bletchley Park, to crack Nazi codes, including Enigma -- which other cryptanalysts had thought unbreakable. This retelling of arguably the most important story in the British WW2 effort won several awards including a Best Adapted Screenplay Oscar.

Dunkirk (2017) In May 1940, Germany advanced into France, trapping around 400,000 Allied troops on the beaches of Dunkirk. Every serviceable naval and civilian vessel that could be found was called upon for the evacuation effort - an evacuation that, if unsuccessful, meant the tide of the war would have almost certainly swung in the Nazi's favour. In the midst of the film’s weaving narrative, stunning visuals and Academy Award winning sound mixing/editing, it’s easy to overlook the film’s meticulous attention to period detail. Requires more than a single viewing!

Whisky Galore! (1949)This superb comedy takes a tongue in cheek look at life on The Hebrides. Set during World War II, the tiny Scottish island of Toddy runs out of whisky, on hearing than the freighter S.S. Cabinet Minister has run aground nearby during a heavy fog, the islanders are delighted to learn that its cargo consists of 50,000 cases of whisky. When the officious English Home Guard Captain demands return of the salvaged liquor, the local shopkeeper and his daughters spearhead an island rebellion.

Man and the Land, Island Home (1964) Made by The BBC and introduced by David Attenborough this film documents a unique visit to Fair Isle in 1964. See a traditional sweater being hand knitted, and be amazed at the speed of the knitter!

Tweed, A Romantic History (2009) A short period style film, beautifully shot on behalf of The Harris Tweed Authority charting the history of the “Big Cloth” over the last 100 odd years.

While researching the history of Scottish Knitwear for this issue we found ourselves referencing a range of classic movies. Please allow us to share some of our favourites, a mix of one or two really rare films and a few better known masterpieces, time to settle

down with a tub of ice cream or a bag of popcorn and enjoy!

A Night at The Movies

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Visitors are very welcome at the factory shop where all the knitwear can be viewed alongside Aero ‘s range of everyday clothing, footwear and, of course, our World

renowned range of classic Leather Clothing.

Our showroom is open all day Monday through to Thursday and on Friday mornings, basic directions to Galashiels can been found below. Alternatively, please check with

your local Aero Leather stockist to see what’s available in your area.

BY CAR We are situated in Galashiels, just off the main A 7 road and a couple of miles off the A68. Our entrance is on Huddersfield Street, the factory is situated where there is a kink in the road, the door is next to the big Aero leather sign on the side of the old mill.

BY AIR Edinburgh Airport is 1 hour by car to the factory, alternatively there are trams availa ble at the airport which go direct to Haymarket railway station, Newcastle Airport is an hour and a half drive to the factory while Glasgow Airport is 2 hours by car to the factory.

BY TRAIN Closest railway station is Galashiels, which is a 5 minute walk from the factory, trains runs regularly from Edinburgh Waverley and Edinburgh Haymarket. Alternatively, those traveling from England or Wales might prefer to go via Ber wick-Upon-Tweed or Carlisle before completing the journey by hire car or bus.

BY BUS There are bus services to Galashiels from Berwick, Edinburgh and Carlisle all pass ing through some beautiful countryside en route to the Galashiels Bus Station which is a 5 minute walk from the factory.

HOW TO GET TO GALASHIELS

BY TRAIN BY BUS BY AIR BY CAR

KNITWEAR

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SCOTTISH KNITWEAR HAS A LONG AND FASCINATING HISTORY.IN THIS PUBLICATION WE’VE RESEARCHED THE ROOTS OF SOME

OF THE MOST LOVED DESIGNS OF THE LAST ONE HUNDRED YEARS, SPECIFICALLY LOOKING AT THE HISTORIC INFLUENCES THAT COURSE

THROUGH THE RANGE OF KNITWEAR CURRENTLY PRODUCED BY AERO KNITWEAR.

ALTHOUGH BETTER KNOWN AS MANUFACTURERS OF HIGH GRADE OUTERWEAR, AERO HAVE BEEN RECREATING SOME OF THE MOST ICONIC KNITWEAR OF THE 20TH CENTURY FOR THE LAST THIRTY YEARS, ALL CRAFTED BY A HIGHLY SKILLED TEAM OF KNITTERS

SCATTERED ACROSS THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS.

THE FULL RANGE OF KNITWEAR ILLUSTRATED IN THE PAGES OF THIS PUBLICATION IS OFFERED FOR SALE ON OUR WEBSITE AND FROM THE AERO LEATHER CLOTHING FACTORY SHOP, WHILE CERTAIN PIECES ARE

AVAILABLE FROM SELECTED STOCKISTS WORLDWIDE.

IN THE NEXT ISSUE WE WILL LOOK AT EVERYDAY CLOTHING AND FOOTWEAR ACROSS THE LAST 100 YEARS AND THOSE ITEMS THAT

AERO CURRENTLY REPRODUCE ALONGSIDE OUR FAMOUS LEATHER CLOTHING RANGE.

Aero Leather Clothing LtdGreenbank Mill

Huddersfield StreetGalashielsTD1 3AYScotland

Tel: 44 (0)1896 755353www.aeroleatherclothing.com

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