The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 1 (Reissue)
-
Upload
the-indoor-gardener-magazine -
Category
Documents
-
view
228 -
download
2
description
Transcript of The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—Issue 1 (Reissue)
GOING OUTDOORSChoosing A Site To Transplant Your Plants OutdoorsChoosing A Soil: A Few Types Of Soil
PLANT FOODS – Part 3Choosing A Nutritive Solution:
Using A Complete Line Of Products From The Same Brand Or Combining Many?
INDUSTRYDr. John A.A. Thomson Of The Vitamin Institute Receives Lifetime Achievement Award
PARA LUMEN PARADIGM SHIFT High Intensity Fluorescent Plant Growth Side by side Trial:Satellite Fluorescent Light II vs Metal Halide Light
INDOOR WATER FEATURES
Tips And Tricks To Succeed In Adding A Water Element
To Your Indoor Garden
Volume 2 — Issue 1www.indoorgardenermagazine.comISSN: 1715-0949 – Bimonthly
July / August 2006
Subscribe and
WINSee page 50 for details
Price: $5.95
�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
CREDITS
Volume 2 – Issue 1July / August 2006
Published by: Green Publications
Publisher: J.M.
Managing editor: Bruno [email protected]
Contributing editors: Helene Jutras, Jessy Caron, Fred Leduc
Art Director: Anna Kanaras
Editorial coordinator: Bruno Bredoux
Collaborators in this issue:
Aquafood (Uruguay), Aquasculpture (Montreal), Kari Bayne, Bruno Bredoux, S.C., Martin Caldeyro-Stajano Ing. Agr. (M.Sc.), Jessy Caron, Stan Daimon, Gary G., Herb Gardner, Daniel Gingras, Dave Guillemette, Hedi Green, Vertuda Green, Grigg, Paul Henderson, Edward Jackson, Helene Jutras, Bordy Lachance, D. Lesage, R. LaBelle, Fred Leduc, Dave Michal, P. Steph (Summum), Red (Hydro-Sciences), Sols & Paysages, Frank Pohl, William Sutherland, Patrisha Thomson, Travis Thomson, vieux bandit, Charles Winslow.
Sales & advertising: Stan [email protected] [email protected]
Translation/Copy editing:
Helene Jutras
Cover design: Anna Kanaras after a photo taken by Bruno Bredoux in Montreal, Canada.
Illustrations: Anna Kanaras
Administration: R. LaBelle
Information: [email protected]
THE INDOOR GARDENER MAGAZINEPostal Station Saint-MichelP.O. Box 183Montreal, QC, H2A 3L9, CANADATel.: (514) 728-8118 Fax: (514) 728-1840www.indoorgardenermagazine.comISSN: 1715-0949
© 2006, Green Publications, Montreal, Qc, CanadaArticles, iconographic representations and photographs contained in this magazine cannot be reproduced, in whole or in part, without the written consent of the Publisher.
Legal deposit: Second Quarter 2005. National Library of Canada. Bibliothèque nationale du Québec.ISSN: 1715-0949
Photos: From the m
anufacturers
Conversion TableLinear Measure (imperial to metric)1 inch 2.54 centimetres1 foot (=12 inches) 0.3048 metre 1 yard (=3 feet) 0.9144 metre
Linear Measure (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millimetre 0.0394 inch 1 centimetre (=10 mm) 0.3937 inch 1 metre (=100 cm) 1.0936 yards
Volume (imperial to metric)Metric 1 (imperial) fl. oz. (=1/20 imperial pint) 28.41 ml 1 (US liquid) fl. oz. (=1/16 US pint) 29.57 ml 1 (imperial) pint (=20 fl. imperial oz.) 568.26 ml 1 (US liquid) pint (=16 fl. US oz.) 473.18 ml 1 (imperial) gallon (=4 quarts) 4.546 litres 1 (US liquid) gallon (=4 quarts) 3.785 litres
Volume (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millilitre 0.002 (imperial) pint, 0.176 pint 1 litre (=1000 ml) 1.76 pints
Mass (imperial to metric)1 ounce (=16 drams) 28.35 grams 1 pound (=16 ounces) 0.45359237 kilogram 1 stone (=14 pounds) 6.35 kilograms
Mass (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 milligram 0.015 grain 1 kilogram (=1000 g) 2.205 pounds
Temperature To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32 degrees and divide by 1.8. To convert Celsius to Fahrenheit, multiply by 1.8 and add 32 degrees.
At page 29, the water-lily photograph is not by Jessy Caron as
indicated, but by an unidentified student of the Pacific Lutheran
University in Tocama, WA.
• In the article on ballasts, the photographs were not captioned
properly. Here are the proper captions: 1) High Yield Lighting’s
Cool-Star, 2) H&M Heat Exchangers Inc. Electronic HID-6000,
3) Life Light Technologies’ electronic high frequency HID ballast,
4) Hydrotek’s Starlite ballasts, 5) Biofloral’s CSA-approved Supernova
ballast, 6) Brite-Lite Econobox, 7) Hydrofarm’s Lumatek & 8) Sumaster’s
convertible ballast.
We apologize to the manufacturers and assure them that this layout
problem has been fixed for the publication of the French version of
issue 5.
The Editors
ERRATA Volume 1 – Issue 6
Page 48 & pages 62-63:
We apologize if some of
the products featured
by our writers in our
“Shopping” section have
offended our readers,
distributors or advertizers.
The products’ use could
be misinterpreted.
The Indoor Gardener
Magazine is not
responsible of the
misinterpretations made
through their use. The
articles appearing in this
magazine are the sole and
exclusive responsibility of
their authors.
Volume 1 – Issue 5
• In the “Plant Foods, Part
1” article, at page 28, the
Arisaema Candidissimum
photograph is not by
Jessy Caron as indicated,
but by the Australian Bulb
Association, and comes
from its image collection.
1
8
5
7
2
3
4
6
On
the
cove
r: M
agno
lia fl
ower
s in
an
east
ern
Mon
trea
l bac
kyar
d, M
ay 2
005.
6 Editorial The Farmer In The Dell By Bruno Bredoux
7 thE EyEs of a rabbit
By Helene Jutras
8 introduction Choosing A Site To Transplant Your Plants Outdoors By Paul Henderson Choosing A Soil: A Few Types Of Soil By Sols et Paysages
14 notEs & nEws Dr. John A.A. Thomson Of The Vitamin Institute Receives Lifetime Achievement Award By Travis and Patrisha Thomson
The Benefits Of Consuming Local By Hedi Green
Preserving Nature In Panama By Helene Jutras
19 tips & tricks: Seed Germination By Bordy Lachance
CRW Mulch By Jessy Caron
22 simplifiEd hydroponics As An Appropriate Technology To Implement Food Security In Urban Agriculture By Martin Caldeyro-Stajano Ing. Agr. (M.Sc.)
28 morphological changE, physiological dEvElopmEnt Perfume, Always By Dave Guillemette
30 indoor watEr fEaturEs By Edward Jackson
32 gallEry With The Collaboration Of Aquasculpture, Montreal
38 plant foods – part 3 Choosing A Nutritive Solution: Using A Complete Line Of Products From The Same Brand Or Combining Many? By B.B. & William S.
44 an Ecological solution against fly problEms By Daniel Gingras
46 para lumEn paradigm shift High Intensity Fluorescent Plant Growth T5 and TT105 By Charles Winslow
48 thE tEst: thE satEllitE fluorEscEnt light ii tEst By Charles Winslow
52 plant physiology More Roots, More Fruits By Red from Hydro-Sciences
54 cooking: Gary’s Grand-Mother’s Sourish Red Cabbage Recipe (Transmitted through oral tradition)
55 thE hydroponic world of north amErica
56 book rEwiEw
Adding Biology In Soil And Hydroponic Systems By Elaine R. Ingham, Ph.D. and Carole Ann Rollins, Ph.D.
58 hEsi products: A Formula Adapted To Growth And Flowering By V.G. and S.C.
60 shopping: Horticultural Novelties A Selection Of Products That Caught Our Attention For This Summer By Kari Bayne, Vertuda Green, S.C., D. Lesage, Helene Jutras, P. Steph & Jessy Caron
65 Q & a One Question… Two Answers! By Fred Leduc & Herb Gardner
TABLE OF CONTENTSPh
otos
: Pan
ama
FFA
, B.B
., Bi
bion
& P
arig
ram
me
Édit
eur.
volumE 2 — issuE 1 / July — august 2006
18 38
44 54
“The farmer in the dell
The farmer in the dell
Hi-ho, The derry-o
The farmer in the dell
The farmer takes a wife
The farmer takes a wife
Hi-ho, The derry-o
The farmer takes a wife
...”
____________________
Traditional – 18th Century
After an entire season of indoor gardening, we might be
tempted to stay under the neon, metal halide lamps, high
pressure sodium lamps and what else... all these new lighting
products offered by the hydroponic industry to shed some
light on our indoor crops are once again to be found in the
pages of this new issue of The Indoor Gardener. But, see
– a ray of sunshine, a long Memorial Day weekend, and I
end up spending my days with my hands in dirt, perfecting
my urban flower beds. There is no better pleasure than
manipulating dirt, putting my hands in the tepidness that
announces the renewal of all things...
Our farmer in the dell will not be alone! In
the woods he will meet
adventurous gardeners,
wanderers looking for wild
species for their small gardens,
looking for strange botanical
adventures. A day of rain, and
here I am in the woods, looking
for species of ferns to plant under
my lilac. A cloudy day, and there
I go to greenhouses and nurseries
to compare perfumes and colours, to associate perennials
and annuals...
A sunny day that predicts many more and you’ll see me
bringing out my rosebay, my geraniums and my begonias
out on the terrace – but in the shade, for a progressive
adaptation to the outside world.
In this issue, The Indoor Gardener takes to the woods. We will
compare the fertility of soils, analyze their content, discuss
their characteristics – we will dare to leave our almost brand
new hydroponic equipment in the basement, even though
last fall it seemed to us the best toy ever, an absolute must-
have... Germination, perfume, lithosol, soil pH, root mass
ready for transplant... those are
some of the words and themes
that you will find throughout
this issue, an issue that begins
a new season, a second year
for the magazine. Yes, dear
readers, The Indoor Gardener
is... coming out!
Bruno Bredoux
The Indoor Gardener
June 2006
EditorialThe Farmer In The Dell
�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
Photos: Modes &
Travaux Archives, Jandigo &
Nan H
ai Plant LtdEDITORIAL
Nephrolepis “Sword Fern”
Phot
os: n
ews.
bbc.
co.u
k
I could not tell you how this so-called piece of information reached his
brain, but when he was about four years old, my stepson would repeat,
meal after meal, that carrots were good for his eyes and would, if he
ate enough of them, give him “night vision”. Now no parent wishes to
take away any piece of information – true or not – that makes a child
eat his vegetables, but his father and I were somewhat puzzled. And
for cause! Our child’s brain had been infected by a powerful myth that
stems... from the British Army!
In August 1940, during the battle of Britain,
fighter pilot John Cunningham became the
first person to shoot down a German plane
with the help of the radar – which was being
used on a widespread scale for the very first
time. Cunningham was the Royal Air Force’s
best pilot during World War II, with a total
of 20 kills. His night vision was legendary,
and he was nicknamed “Cats’ Eyes”.
Since the Germans had not yet developed
radar to the same level as the British (nor
had any other nation until then), they did not understand why they
were losing so many aircrafts and had no clue that it was the use of
radar that permitted the British to locate Luftwaffe bombers in the
dark – and the RAF, obviously, wanted to keep its secret as long as was
possible. So it put a story in the British newspapers, claiming that John
Cunningham and his fellow night pilots owed their exceptional night
vision to an unusually large consumption of, you guessed it, carrots.
Some even claimed that the RAF had developed a carotene-enhanced
carrot for its pilots. Citizens, upon reading these reports, started
cultivating and eating more carrots – they figured it would help them
navigate the streets during the frequent blackouts and attacks.
So do carrots have any effect on vision? You bet. Carrots are rich in
beta-carotene, which the body converts to vitamin A, and vitamin A is
crucial to maintain normal vision. In fact, a severe vitamin A deficiency
can lead to blindness: there are currently 118 countries struggling with
a preventable blindness epidemic, affecting mostly children, that is
due to a vitamin A deficiency (which also leads to skin problems and
stunted growth). UNICEF and the World Health Organization, among
others, are fighting back.
In North America and Europe, however, a healthy diet does not
carry any risk of vitamin A deficiency – our food is vitamin-enriched
to begin with, and we are more, though not very likely to suffer the
consequences of an excess of vitamin A – ranging from birth defects,
to headaches, vomiting, double vision, hair loss, bone abnormalities
and liver damage.
In the meantime, where do I start to debunk this myth for the resident
child here? A long long time ago on a continent not so far away...?
The Eyes Of A RabbitBy Helene Jutras
�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
INTRODUCTION
The key to success in an outdoor plantation
rests mainly on the choice of its location.
When moving from hydroponics to soil
outdoors, one needs to take many factors
into account in order to preserve the
benefits, qualities and characteristics that the
plant has accumulated during its growth in
a hydroponic system. Aside from these, it is
important to ensure that the three elements
essential to a good outdoor crop be available
to the plants and accessible from the chosen
site. Those three essential elements are water,
light, and the type of soil.
Water
Water, of course, in the source of plant life.
It must be near the site. Its composition must
then be tested with a pH meter and a PPM
meter. If the water is too acidic, too alkaline
or too saline, difficulties will quickly arise for
your crop.
Stagnant water, usually found in swamps, is
very often acidic, and should be avoided. The
aquatic life of a lake, river or brook always
indicates its water quality. If there are many
frogs, fish and plants, it is an obvious sign
that the water is good. Trout are sensitive
to pollutants such as metals and chemical
products, so their presence is a good omen.
Trout do not adapt to a pH level that is too
high or too low – the same is true for the
indoor plants we transplant outdoors in
broad daylight.
Light
Light is directly linked to the final yield of an
outdoor crop. More light leads to a higher
yield. Light is the first link in the chain: a
lack of light will prevent nutrient absorption
because the plant will not transpire enough.
The plant will then decrease its CO2 intake
and its growth will be stunted.
If the plant lacks sufficient light, the yield will
likely be disappointing, no matter what other
care you have provided.
Light also gives plants the flowering signal.
It is thus very important that the plant get
as much light as possible. We recommend
a minimum of six daily hours of direct
sunlight.
Red calcic clayey-loamy soil. The silt on the clay offers good potential. In depth (over one meter), we find good water drainage, a high exchange capacity and good water reserves.
Photo: UMR LISAH Montpellier.
Choosing A Site To Transplant Your Plants OutdoorsBy Paul Henderson
Clayish grey soil with pseudogley (characteristic of prolonged water saturation or periodic waterlogging areas), too sandy. The heavy texture is visible on this picture: the dirt seems “cut” by the knife.
Photo: UMR LISAH Montpellier.
CHOOSING A SOIL A Few TypeS OF SOIL
By SOLS eT pAySAGeS, © UMR LISAH MONTpeLLIeR
A) FeRTILe SOIL
Photo: Bruno Bredoux
Naples, Florida, December 2005
�VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER
INTRODUCTION
To provide your plants with as much sunlight
as possible, use a minimum treeless surface
that is 15 meters wide and 30 meters long.
Choose a location such as a clearing with
a length-wise east/west orientation and a
width-wise north/south orientation, and
plant on the length, on the north side.
The south slope of a mountain (the adret) is
also an excellent location to look for a well-
positioned clearing. Since the mountain is to
the north, your plants will receive as much
light from the south as possible.
The spacing between the plants is often
neglected, and only a few centimetres are left
between plants. This reduces the production
potential of the lower branches, since plants
will create shade for one another. A good
solution is to plant using a zigzag shape,
leaving one meter between the plants.
The tying technique consists of tying the
plant’s apex to curve the plant in the shape of
a bow. It is a valuable trick, and redistributes
the growth hormones (cytokinin, gibberellin
and auxin) to all the branches. It is an
excellent technique to use to maximize light
penetration while increasing the yield of
lateral branches, that get substantially more
sunlight.
A – Soil: The Most Complex Element
Different types of soil exist: sandy, muddy,
clayish, silty, loamy...
A fistful of dirt is, actually, made up of
different types of matter, such as clay, sand,
organic matter, etc. The soil’s properties
determine how it will interact with the
plant. As with water, it is crucial to know the
composition of soil. For outdoor cultivation,
the best soil has the following properties: it
drains well, is rich in nutrients, and has a pH
that nears neutrality (7).
1 – Light Sandy Soil
Sand drains well... too well, even, and for
this reason it cannot retain moisture. The
nutriments are thus easily washed off with a
heavy rain or simple watering.
This type of soil, however, can easily be
prepared for cultivation. To increase the soil’s
water retention capacity, simply add manure,
humus or peat moss. This will also provide
nitrogen, which is required since sandy
soil usually lacks nitrogen. It is, however,
rich in phosphorous (P), potassium (K) and
magnesium (Mg).
2 – Loamy Soil
20% clay, 40% sand and 40% silt. Loamy
soil offers excellent conditions for plants
transplanted outdoors. The soil is usually
fertile and, because of its composition, it also
drains well while retaining enough moisture.
3 – Silty Soil
Made of minerals and fine organic particles,
silty soil is actually the result of floods: it is
Soil made up of sedimentary rocks at the surface, but rich in stability and nutrients (on the picture, a few carnations flower on a rocky and rugged mountain slope.)
Photo: Robbez-Masson.
Rendosol (is said of a soil that is hyper-calcareous, calcaric, from soft chalk) on green and blue plates of limestone. Note the very visible biological activity around the roots.
Photo: Robbez-Masson.
Phot
o: B
runo
Bre
doux
Naples, Florida, December 2005
10THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
INTRODUCTION
made up of the deposits of the surrounding
seabeds. Good silt drains well and retains
moisture. It is very fertile – it is perhaps
the most fertile type of soil – although it is
sometimes slightly low in nitrogen. It can
very well handle the intensive cultivation of
plants transplanted outdoors.
4 – Muddy Soil
Mud is to be avoided: it retains too much water
and does not drain well. Mud is very fertile,
but often very acidic. Dig a 60-centimetre
hole in the ground. If you find no water, it is
possible to cultivate it if you correct the soil
with perlite or sand to improve drainage.
5 – Clayish Soil
Clay is hard to work with, does not drain
well and retains much water. Like mud,
however, clay is very fertile. A clayish soil,
given an application of perlite or sand, can
become an excellent cultivation site for plants
transplanted outdoors. Red clay is best; blue
or green clay requires more care before the
transplantation.
Most soils in Québec can be suitable to the
cultivation of plants transplanted outdoors
with minimal work. At first glance, the
immediate flora will indicate to you how
fertile the soil is. If the plants are pale,
yellow or stunted, the soil is clearly lacking
nutrients.
Preparing the soil is usually simple, but it
is an important step. To evaluate the soil’s
quality, all you need do is to dig a 60 to 90
centimetres-deep hole and to observe the
dirt’s texture at various depths. Press the soil
in your hand. If it crumbles well, it is sandy
or loamy. If it stays compact or is sticky, it is
clayish or muddy and you will have no choice
but to prepare it.
Fill the hole with water. Wait for it to drain
completely and fill it again to verify the soil’s
drainage capacity. If the water has not drained
24 hours later, you have a severe drainage
problem. You can rectify the problem with
perlite or sand, but it would be wiser to
simply pick another spot.
B – pH
Most soils in Québec are acidic or very
slightly alkaline, with a pH under 7.5, a level
that is still adequate for plants transplanted
outdoors.
The optimal pH is around 6 or 7. A simple
way of testing the soil’s average pH is to take
a soil sample and to put it in tepid water for
half an hour. Then test the mixture’s pH with
pH paper or a pH meter.
Clayey-loamy soil where the deep level is more hydromorphic and therefore limits rooting. It is identifiable by its grey color.
Photo: UMR LISAH Montpellier.
Soil mainly made up of red soil. The slow dissolution of limestone has freed the terra rossa, and a reddish soil has developed, along with a surface decarbonation, an alkaline saturation above 65% and an alteration of primary minerals, resulting in a rocky fersialsol (a soil with the previously listed characteristics). Low fertility potential.
Photo: Robbez-Masson.
B) LeSS FeRTILe SOIL
Photo: Bruno Bredoux
Questembert, France, July 2005
Phot
os:
12THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
INTRODUCTION
1 – Acidic Soil
Conifer needles are very acidic. The soil in
areas where conifers are found is likely to be
relatively acidic.
Soil can be deacidified with lime. Fine lime
is released faster than others, and thus acts
more quickly. To bring an acidic soil’s pH
closer to neutrality, use 500 millilitres of lime
for every 20 litres of soil.
2 – Alkaline Soil
It is rare, but it does exist. An alkaline soil’s
pH is usually under 7.5. To adjust its pH, you
can use gypsum, among others.
C – Holes
When you prepare holes to transplant the
plants into, remember to dig holes that are
wider than deep, in order for surface roots
to have an air supply. Peat moss will fill these
holes wonderfully. Mix pure peat moss with
perlite to improve drainage and with manure
or compost for the nutrients they bring. The
top layer of prepared soil should be at least
15 centimetres deep and 30 centimetres
wide.
D – Watering
You should water your plants one a week
(if there has been no rain, of course). If you
add fertilizers in your waterings, I suggest
you check the weather forecast for the week
beforehand: nothing is more disappointing
than to fertilize before a cloudy week. With
its feet in water and fertilizer, without heat or
sunlight, the plant will not perspire enough
to absorb the water and nutrients. This could
lead to burns or rot due to stagnant water.
Fertilize after
the rain and
before the sun
comes back
– the nutrients
will spread
with more ease
in a moist soil.
To be continued in the next issue…
Lithosol (crude non evolved mineral soil) on fissured limestone. Its fertility is low.
Photo: UMR LISAH Montpellier.
Source: www.sol.ensam.inra.fr – Sols et Paysages © UMR LISAH Montpellier
Common Lithosol
Photo: Barthès
Photos: Bruno Bredoux & A
rrosoirs Brio
Questembert, France, July 2005
Tucson, Arizona, April 2005
Los Angeles, CA, April 2005
Phot
os:
1�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
NOTES & NEWS
Last January, manufacturing biochemist Dr. John A.A.
Thomson received the Lifetime Achievement Award, the
highest honour given by the Lawn and Garden Marketing
and Distribution Association. Dr. Thomson is the first chemist
to receive this award.
Dr. Thomson, 94, is best known as the inventor of
SUPERthrive™ multiple vitamin-hormones, the unique
formula used worldwide as a universal improvement for
over 50 forms of horticulture.
Dr. Thomson first developed
SUPERthrive in early 1940. Since
then, SUPERthrive has been
famous for its unchallenged
monetary reward guarantee
($5,000) of superior efficacy.
Although Dr. Thomson has
created hundreds of products
for the Vitamin Institute, of
which he is founder, president
and owner, only SUPERthrive
survived.
The LGMDA lifetime achievement award citation outlined
biographical notes. It stated:
“Dr. John has been recognized in 28 differently-titled
Who’s Who directories, including 52 lines in Who’s Who in
America, much for the product and the information that he
brought about.
“Dr. John worked his way through college during depression
times by digging ditches, by winning national and other
essay and speaking contests and working as a paymaster
for the U.S. Treasury, paying F.D.R.’s emergency alphabet
agencies people.
“During World War II, all of his SUPERthrive and other
production were either for ‘high priorities’ or ‘high end use.’
He had five US government departments use his SUPERthrive
product to help win World War II.
“He was a senior in the School of Government at the
University of Southern California when he switched to
biochemistry. He has pioneered most of the known uses of
vitamins and hormones for plants and he also had a “first”
in the field of vitamins for humans. He has led the national
laws to protect the availability of each. He has had a number
of civic service and other awards.”
For the curious, here are the main ways in which SUPERthrive
was used by the US government to help to win World War II:
1. The US Army Corps of Engineers were enabled by
SUPERthrive to camouflage large new defence installation
buildings with transplanted large trees, without the trees
wilting and dying. This seemed necessary when enemy
aircraft carriers’ positions were unknown and were
considered a threat.
2. The US Forest Service found that SUPERthrive
produced more latex rubber in larger whole
Guayule rubber plants. Real natural latex rubber
was required for some defence purposes, while
imports were severely restricted by enemy
warships.
3. The US Army Air Corps used SUPERthrive to
rapidly establish well-rooted turf flying fields, to
control dust.
4. The US Navy found that SUPERthrive enabled
successful planting and development of seeds
and plants at naval bases, regardless of saltwater
contamination.
5. SUPERthrive helped the US Department of Agriculture
produce an agriculture project to enable the USA to
become independent of foreign sources of drug and oil-
bearing plants. The USDA accomplished this cooperatively
with the State of California through the California State
Polytechnic University in San Luis Obispo, where 3,000
acres were used in crops.
The only previous lifetime achievement award by the
Association was made to Horace Hagedorn, now
deceased.
This year, however, a total of four pillars of the industry
were honoured. Three wholesale distributors were given
this award:
• Bob J. Bunch, founder and head of BWI Companies, Inc.,
Texarkana, Texas.
• Aaron Lessans, top official of Commerce Corporation,
Inc., Baltimore, Maryland.
• Bernard J. Mollema, former chairman of J. Mollema and
Son, Grand Rapids, Michigan.
Source: Travis Thomson and Patrisha Thomson — The Vitamin
Institute™
Dr. John A.A. Thomson of the Vitamin Institute and three other pillars of the industry received Lifetime Achievement Awards from the Lawn and Garden Marketing and Distribution Association (LGMDA)
Presenter and Conference Marketing Chairman Jim Kaminskas of the Espoma Co., Millville, N.J. with John A.A. Thomson, Ph.D.,
D.A. President-Founder-Owner, Vitamin Institute Manufacturing biochemist.
Photos: LGM
DA
(by permission)
Phot
os:
1�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
NOTES & NEWS
According to the U.S. environmental research group World
Watch Institute, imported food travels between 2,500 and
4,000 kilometres from farm to plate. Four times the energy
is used and four times the greenhouse gas emissions are
generated compared to local food. Approximately 8 tonnes
of CO2 emissions are created each year in the production,
packaging, transportation and distribution of imported food
for a family of four. The average meal uses up to 17 times
more petroleum products and increases carbon dioxide
emissions by the same amount compared to an entirely
local meal. Buying local decreases transportation, which
means less fossil fuel is being burned, thus the environment
is being protected from ozone depleting substances in
harmful exhaust fumes such as nitrous oxide.
Food grown locally is fresher, tastier and more nutritious
than produce that travels for a week and then sits on
supermarket shelves for another week. Fruits and vegetables
lose nutrients quickly. Food that is canned just after harvest
is actually more nutritious than produce that has gone
through the import cycle.
Listening to our body’s needs
should also encourage us
to buy locally. Our body
energy is maximized if we
eat according to seasonal
harvests. A large percentage
of the food we import is
grown in climates more
suitable to its nutrition. In
warmer climates, the cooling
effects of raw foods and
tropical fruits are essential.
Foods that are higher in sugar content are more popular
than whole grains and animal protein. In harsher climates,
we have a need for foods that provide warmth and energy
such as salt, grains, vegetable stews and for some people,
animal protein. These foods provide warmth and energy.
We should eat in harmony with our weather. It is more
difficult to adapt to colder temperatures if our blood is
filled with sugar, making it more summery. It is harder to
tolerate the cold without alkaline substances in the blood…
Imported foods should be enjoyed, on occasion, for variety
and specialty dishes, not for everyday fare.
Vancouver writers Alisa Smith and J.B. MacKinnon decided
to challenge themselves for one year and eat only food
produced within a 160-kilometre radius of their home. They
were concerned about the burning of fossil fuels and the
toxic fumes being released from the trucks which transport
fruits and vegetables. Their experiment was tricky and not
that easy. Deciding that every single ingredient had to come
from the earth in their
160 kilometre circle,
they were unable to
find any locally grown
grains, pasta, bread
or rice. The only
starch they could find
was potatoes. After a
few weeks, they had
to loosen their rules to include locally milled flour.
Preparing for winter, Smith and MacKinnon froze and
canned vegetables in the fall. Faced with making strawberry
jam during strawberry season, they were unable to use sugar
because it is shipped from thousands of kilometres away.
Using local honey instead, they found it quite expensive
because of the quantities needed to preserve the summer
fruit…
North American environmentalists are encouraging people
to make a conscious effort to eat locally. As well as protecting
the environment, you are supporting the local economy.
Purchasing products from local farmers helps keep them in
business and guarantees that you are receiving the freshest
possible produce. Also, local farmers don’t have access to
genetically modified seeds, so you can be assured that fruits
and vegetables are grown the old fashioned way. By helping
the farms stay financially active, the beauty of the landscape
is preserved, as well. The crop fields, meadows, woods and
ponds are also home to many species of wildlife. Thriving in
a constant state of life, this ecosystem also captures carbon
emissions and helps offset 12 to 14% of the carbon emitted
by vehicles and industry.
By supporting local farmers today, you can help ensure
that there will be a farming community tomorrow and that
future generations will have access to nutritious fresh fruits
and vegetables.
Sources: Monique Beaudin, The Montreal Gazette, Tuesday,
November 22, 2005, CanWestMediaWorks Publications Inc., &,
www.macrobiotics.co.uk/mbprinciples.htm, www.greensgrow.
org, www.thetyee.ca, thetyee.ca/Life/2005/06/28/
HundredMileDiet.
THE BENEFITS OF CONSUMING LOCAL By HE d I Gr E E N
Photos: La Chaîne de l’Espoir & H
edimag
Phot
os:
D.R
. & G
L V
ideo
I love rotten fruit!Is it provocation? An actual taste for rot? Alimentary
decadence? It is hard to pass judgment on the love French
author Amélie Nothomb devotes to eating rotten fruit.
It started off as a simple declaration made to a women’s
magazine, but it has become the most note-worthy trait
of Nothomb’s persona – she is still explaining herself in
television studios, which leads us to believe she may have
done better to think before she spoke. Again recently on
the set of the show “On a tout essayé” (“We’ve tried
everything” – and it’s not true: no one on the
set but Amélie agreed to eat the rotting fruit!),
she devoured, in front of the camera, peaches
that were more than rotten, overripe pears and
strawberries that had long ago see better days.
It’s a question of taste, she says. These seemingly disgusting
fruit have flavours unknown to the common man. Perhaps
she is right in the end – supermarket stands are filled with
fruits whose ripening process has been stalled by any possible
means just so they look shiny under supermarket neon
lamps... Shiny, yes, but often tasteless and
bland! In any case, it seems that rotten
fruit is good for the skin (see the picture)!
– B.B.
In Seneca Falls, Renewal Happens With Methane GasIt was recently announced that a 200-acres industrial
complex will be built along route 414 in Seneca Falls, New
York. The complex’s power supply will be done exclusively
with methane gas, a by-product of the area’s numerous
garbage decomposition sites and public dumps. Using this
by-product of decomposition is a nice way of saving energy,
but it is also an ecological stand. Seneca county officials have
said they are thrilled with the project. The five production
sites will produce enough power to also supply 20,000 to
25,000 homes and will create jobs.
The first tenant of the new industrial complex will be
none other than H2Gro, a hydroponic tomato production
company that was based, until now,
in Lewinston, in Niagara County.
During the ground breaking ceremony
held on May 5th, Peter Zeliff, CEO of
H2Gro, said that the company would
move to its new location at the very beginning of 2007. Its
hydroponic greenhouse will be powered only by methane
and will allow for the creation of nearly 100 jobs in the
Seneca Falls community. The energetic exploitation and the
maintenance of the main generator will create 340 more
jobs in this sector of “clean” energy.
– B.B. (following a report in The Finger Lakes Times)
1�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
NOTES & NEWS
Deforestation, erosion, desertification – Panama is looking
for and finding solutions. With the help of a few friends, the
country is attempting to save its fragile and rich ecosystems.
Its rain forests harbour a diversity that is second only to that
of the Amazon.
Panama has only just begun to focus on attracting eco-
tourists since the 1999 transfer of control over the Panama
Canal from the United States. Panama’s nature, it is said,
is comparable to that of neighbouring Costa Rica, but it is
less crowded with tourists. In and near the capital, Panama
City, many nature reserves and attractions allow one to
discover the natural flora of the region: visitors can choose
between the large Parque Natural Metropolitano, the
Centro de Exhibiciones Marinas, located on the causeway
or the Parque Nacional Soberania, on the western side of
the Canal, where birdwatchers gather (Panama sustains
over 80% of North American shore birds that winter in its
mangrove swamps). One advantage of having the Canal is
that it requires nature along its sides as a water catchment
system (although erosion and lack of water are important
and rising environmental issues in Panama as everywhere
else).
In 2007, a new museum should add to Panama City’s natural
attractions. The Museum of Biodiversity, also known as the
Bridge of Life Building, has been designed by none other
than Frank Gehry. Located in the Amador area of Panama
City, at the tip of a causeway on the
Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal,
the museum will be the first and only
dedicated to presenting the diversity and
complexity of life on Earth. The project
is being developed in cooperation
with the Smithsonian Institute, the
Universidad of Panama, and the ARI
(Interoceanic Region Authority).
The museum will be hard to miss – its
pavilions will have bright colourful roofs,
visible from afar, to create “a jagged and
twisting silhouette that will be a clear
representation of the forces of nature
that shape our world.”
The museum will sit within a botanical
park – one designed by Edwina von
Gal, a self-taught gardener/landscape designer who
boasts clients such as Calvin Klein and who fell in love with
Panama’s natural beauty. In the public plaza at the end of
the planned frog pond reflecting pool, Ms. von Gal sees a
corutu, a great canopy tree that will provide shade. “We’re
not trying to put in a rain forest”, she told the New York
Times, “The whole idea of the park is that it’s a bridge to
the real thing. Out here, people will be able to touch and
smell plants most suitable to urban gardens.” Most of the
plants will be native.
In fact, Ms. von Gal and other well-to-
do Americans have started buying land
– and building eco-friendly homes away
from home using local materials and
labor – in Panama, planting native trees
on eroded hill sides and bringing nature
back to what it once was. They work
with the locals, proving to them that some
cash crops – vanilla, for example – can
grow in its native land again, but only in
forested areas! The group is “pooling their funds to buy up
old cattle ranches before developers buy the land for high-
rise resorts, casinos and golf courses.” It very well may be
that we will look at Panama, years from now, as an example
of human intervention to save what was almost destroyed.
– H.J. Sources: New York Times, wikipedia.com
Panama Baro Colorado Islands (Photo: Panama forest flora and fauna association)
Rubén Blades, Panama’s Tourism Minister (Photo: EPASA Archives)
Preserving nature
in Panama
Photo: Crea
Phot
os: S
yste
m D
(La
uren
t), S
.D. S
ong
/ Uni
vers
ity
Of H
ong
Kong
1�VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER
TIPS & TRICKS
Germination is a period where life starts aGain, a crucial step in the development of your indoor and outdoor plants – that is why it is so important to provide the seeds with the proper nutritive elements so they can successfully Germinate.
The TechniqueFirst, you must choose a good, well-drained soil with a
neutral pH (7.0). I suggest you use a commercial soil mix
such as Pro-Mix – it is sterilized and has a balanced pH. Mix
three parts of Pro-Mix‚ to one part worm casting compost
and one part perlite or vermiculite. Pour the soil into ten-
centimetre diameter pots and mix in five millilitres of
Mycorise‚ an agent that contains an endomycorrhizal fungi
which lives in total symbiosis with plant roots.
You must then make a nutritive solution with which to wet
and enrich the soil. If your water is strongly chlorinated, I
suggest you fill your water containers and let them rest for a
24-hour period, in order to allow the chlorine to evaporate.
Natural water springs are ideal. Mix five millilitres of liquid
marine algae per litre of water.
I always advise people to “start” the plant seeds three days
before the full moon: the moon’s attractive effect greatly
improves the success rate, and it accelerates the germination
period. It takes most seeds between two and seven days to
crack their shell. The roots grow in the 14 days following
germination.
To start the germination cycle, pour some nutritive solution
into a pot and soak the seeds in that water for 12 hours. At
the same time, wet your clay pots and place them under a
lamp in what will become their new environment. The pots
will thus be ready to welcome the plantlets.
Place the seeds on this dirt. Carefully observe the seed’s
shape. It must not be pushed in too deep – only enough for
it to be covered, pointing up (its shape resembles a falling
drop of water). When the seeds
crack, their natural tendency is
to shoot a first root down to
send the seed’s head upwards
(see illustration).
LightingModerate lighting is ideal for
germination. Full spectrum
fluorescent tubes are excellent.
A window sill can also do,
but you must ensure that the
temperature remains between
20 and 25°C and that the
surface is not cold.
To increase your chances
of success, use small plastic
domes to create a greenhouse
effect – this will increase the
humidity rate to 60 to 80%.
Wipe the excess condensation
once a day to allow as much light in as possible. If you
have opted for fluorescent lighting, the tubes can safely
be put right in contact with
the domes. If you are using
a high intensity discharge
lamp, however, place it 1.2
meters above the plantlets.
If you have no domes, make
sure the top layer of soil
stays moist (a light daily
spraying should suffice). As
soon as the shoots are above
the soil, remove the domes
to re-establish a normal
humidity level (40 to 50%).
If you want to plant your seeds outdoors, start by well
turning the soil, and plant them the same way. You should,
however, plant more seeds than you want plants, because
some of the seeds will be eaten by birds and small animals.
The early June full moon period is an ideal starting point for
this endeavour.
Cuttings and plantlets well started indoors will give you
bigger yields.
Happy germination!
seed germination By Bordy Lachance
20THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
TIPS & TRICKS
Horticulturists and plant lovers know that putting mulch
on the ground offers many advantages. Much retains the
soil’s water, which means fewer waterings. Mulch improves
the structure of soil and protects it against temperature
variations. Mulch prevents weeds and feeds the soil by
decomposing. Of all available mulches, however, which one
should you pick?
A few decades ago, researchers at Université Laval have
demonstrated that ramial chipped wood (RCW) is the ideal
amendment. Numerous experiments done in forested and
agricultural areas and in landscaping have allowed the experts
to see a regeneration
of the soil, the return of
its natural fertility and
melanization (the soil
becomes darker) caused
by the transformation
of lignin into humus.
This lignin creates high
quality humus. Humus is
essential: it improves the
physical, chemical and
biological properties of
soil. It stores the minerals
naturally found in the soil,
and those minerals can
then be made available
to the plants via micro-
organisms.
CRW is made up of hardwood tree branches of less than
seven centimetres in diameter, made into chips. Branches of
a larger diameter and trunks should not be used, because
they can lead to a nitrogen deficiency in the soil. They also
contain very few nutrients and the tree-protection products
contained in the trunk could be harmful to the soil. If you
want to use conifer branches, they cannot form over 20%
of the whole. That is because conifers produce substances
(tannins and phenols) that can hinder the growth of
herbaceous plants. The lignin of conifers is also different
from that of hardwoods, and it produces a humus that is
specifically intended for organisms that prefer an acidic
environment.
According to researchers, CRW is the mulch that produces
the most stable humus because small diameter branches
are very rich in young lignin and in proteins. The smaller
the branches, the highest their nutriment concentration is.
Branches also contain other elements, such as cellulose,
sugars, starches, hemicellulose, amino acids, enzymes and
mineral salts.
Some fungi (basidiomycetes or white mould) transform
lignin into humus; they are the only living organisms that
can perform such a transformation. To help the organisms
perform their task, the CRW mulch must be incorporated
into the soil – because fungi need moisture – but not too
deeply – because they also need air. Once that is done,
other useful organisms, such as springtails and mites, will be
attracted by the fungi, which they eat. Springtails and mites
will in turn allow some
bacteria that feed on
their waste to multiply.
These bacteria then
feed protozoa, the earth
worm’s favourite dish.
Earth worms, it has been
demonstrated, are much
more attracted to CRW
than they are to compost.
The presence of all these
micro-organisms creates
diversity and makes
the soil a stable habitat
where each organism
and each plant benefits.
The spectacular results observed on soil during experiments
demonstrate the many advantages of using CRW:
• All soil structures have been remarkably improved.
• The humus formed retains 15 times its weight in water; it
thus allows for better draught resistance.
• Parasites are less virulent because of the increased
biodiversity.
• Product quality has improved: more dry matter and
improved flavour.
• Yield increases have been noted, notably the second year
after the CRW application (up to 300% for strawberries).
• In strawberries, an exceptional root development
was observed, as well as the natural appearance of
mycorhiza with beneficial effects on the available level of
phosphorous.
• The pH of acidic soils increased.
Photo: Jessy Caron
CRW Mulch By Jessy Caron
Phot
o: Je
ssy
Caro
n
In landscaping, CRW mulch can be beneficial for all shrub,
perennial or annual plant beds, but it is mostly used around
trees and shrubs and on garden aisles. A 10-centimetre
layer can be put down around trees and shrubs and a five
centimetre layer around herbaceous plants, depending of
the plant’s development. You should nonetheless avoid
placing CRW directly on trunks to avoid trunk mould. You
will then only need to add some CRW each year, because
it decomposes slowly. Ideally, the chips should not be too
coarse (two to four centimetres in diameter) to increase the
contact surfaces for soil micro-organisms, which ensures
that the material is well digested. The CRW must not be
too finely shredded, however, to prevent it from forming
a water-proof layer. To preserve adequate aeration, the
thicker the layer, the coarser the chips should be.
CRW is obviously one of the best mulches and amendments
available, given its high nutrient content and the presence
of lignin which forms a very stable humus, which in turn is
beneficial to the organisms living in the soil and hence for
the plants.
The only problem with CRW is its availability. The
only companies that sell it are pruning companies and
municipalities, and we cannot be sure that all the branches
used had a diameter of less than seven centimetres. Another
way to get CRW would be to rent or buy a wood chipper,
but in this case you must make sure that the investment
can be made profitable, i.e., the quantity of branches to be
chipped must be worth the effort.
Simplified Hydroponics as an Appropriate Technology to Implement Food Security in Urban AgricultureBy Martin Caldeyro-Stajano Ing. Agr. (M.Sc.)
22THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
INDUSTRYPhoto: A
quafood
1) Urban agricUltUre Planting in cities is becoming increasingly popular as a result
of demographic growth and because it is a source of food
and of jobs, providing city dwellers with an income. This
situation, however, gives rise to much concern. Despite the
fact that urban agriculture is a suitable solution for dwellers
of urban areas and the urban periphery, these people live
in places where facilities, community infrastructure and
other services that ensure a proper quality of life are usually
absent.
Cultivation techniques applied in these cases include the
growing of fruits and
vegetables based on
the traditional model
of soil agriculture
(organic), where it is
possible to make the
most of household
waste as well as
of the manure of
domestically raised
animals. This apparent
advantage of organic
crops, stemming from
the use of household
waste and the resulting
decrease in its volume,
is nevertheless one
of the main health
hazards for the people who consume this produce, and
constitutes the greatest double-edged sword of the model.
Since urban soil and the inputs applied for fertilization
purposes are the main source of disease, this gives rise to a
major flaw in the food safety of the end product.
Organic soil agriculture, when used in a rural environment,
presents significant advantages and a relatively low
pollution risk when planting takes place in conformity with
certain standards. However, if it is transferred to an urban
environment, the situation changes considerably due to the
conditions under which the crops are produced.
Conventional crops sown on soil require the proper
environment, so one must take into account the quality
of the soil and water on which
they rely, as plants absorb any
existing pollution. The main soil
and water disorders observed in
most cities are the following:
SoilS
The soils of urban areas and
of the urban periphery are
contaminated to a large
degree, especially in those areas
where the population is socio-
economically disadvantaged.
Once the soil has been
contaminated, it shall remain
polluted for many years.
Wastewaters from cesspools,
which overflow or have
overflowed in the past, leave their microbial load in the soil
and can even contaminate the crops grown there.
Figure 1. View of a settlement in the urban periphery in Latin America, adjacent to contaminated water sources.
Soils containing heavy metals (lead, chromium, cadmium,
etc.) are most common in the presence of polluting
industries that use these metals. In the case of lead, it can
also be the residue of car batteries laid to waste on the spot
for several years. There are other contaminants which are
easily overlooked, such as emissions from motor vehicles
burning gasoline with lead and flaking paint from the walls
of houses, which peels off and falls to the ground where
it stays for many years. That is why some environmental
scientists advise against planting adjacent to homes,
highways and roads, since the plants absorb these toxic
elements and transfer them to the crops that the family
consumes, with serious health consequences, especially in
the case of children (Raloff, Janet 2003).
Landfill soils, where garbage or materials of unknown history
have been dumped, on which people later settle, with their
dwellings and crops, remain unsafe if untreated.
Water
This is another constraint of the urban milieu, since the areas
where these low-income dwellers are located do not have
easy access to drinking water and sewerage (Figure 1). The
ground and surface water sources there may be considered
low quality because of the high contamination levels of the
following:
• Bacteria, protozoa and viruses, because the water
sources are near cesspools or sanitary landfills. They are
increasingly present when the absence of a sewerage
network is coupled with high population density.
• Excess of nitrates: as a result of the over-fertilization of
farmland which reaches the urban environment through
the water tables and impinges on the ground water.
Additionally, there are fertilizers used in residential
gardens, etc.
• Pesticides: as a result of their use in farming.
• Toxic chemicals: as a result of industrial residue (fats,
soaps, detergents, solvents, tanning chemicals, heavy
metals, etc.) and farming wastes (pesticides).
Ideally, programs implemented by international and
governmental agencies and non-governmental organizations
should take into account Good Agricultural Practices (GAP)
when contemplating planting in soil in cities. Several tests
should be carried out on the soil and water sources, and
appropriate pollution management practices should be
applied.
2�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
INDUSTRYPhoto: A
quafood
Manure and solid organic wastes are harmless and they
are an effective fertilizer, but only when properly treated
(Guide To Reduce Microbial Hazard In Food To A Minimum,
In The Case Of Fresh Fruit And Vegetables, Food and Drug
Administration, USA, 1998). Such programs should also
include other measures, such as educating the population
on how to achieve a safe end product. Nevertheless, as a
result of the dizzying development pace of cities, soil and
especially water are subject to environmental factors which
are extremely dynamic – they facilitate pollution, dispersion
and, over time, compromise the continuity of efforts geared
to controlling factors that guarantee food safety.
2) Food SecUrityAccording to the “Rome Declaration on World Food Security
and World Food Summit Plan of Action” (Rome, FAO
1996), food security “exists when all people, at all times,
have physical and affordable access to sufficient, safe and
nutritious food to meet their dietary needs enabling them
to lead a healthy and active life.”
Even when a country has sufficient food at the national
level, foodstuffs must be equitably distributed, they must
be of good nutritional quality and people must be able to
afford them. Foodstuffs must also be safe. According to the
Pan American Health Organization (PAHO), safe foodstuffs
are those which are fit for human consumption, nutritional
and pleasant and that do not harm consumers.
At the World Food Summit held in Rome (in 1996),
governments promised to strive to cut by half the number of
people who did not have access to food security conditions
by 2015. Before 1996, there were 817 million people in
developing countries. In the beginning, national policies
were successful, and the malnourished
population initially dropped to 778 million
in 1997 but it then rose to 798 million
in 1999-2001 (FAO – The State of Food
Insecurity in the World, SOFI 2003).
This stated goal will be very difficult to
achieve unless food security in cities is given
the priority it deserves. The perception in
the early 21st century is that urbanization
will continue and increase.
According to the UN Food and Agriculture
Organization (FAO), on average 50%
of the world’s population lives in cities,
ranging from 22% in China to 72% in
Latin America.
2.1) Food SecUrity and itS relationShip With Water QUality, diSeaSe and MalnUtrition
Apart from the quality of water for irrigation purposes, in
the context of water quality, disease and malnutrition, it
is important to consider the water used to wash fruit and
vegetables for personal consumption. The poor quality of
water used by urban populations without basic utilities
in place contributes to the likelihood of a high degree of
contamination being present in the produce grown and
washed under such conditions, i.e. it is not safe for human
consumption (Guide to Reduce Microbial Hazard in Food to
A Minimum, in the Case of Fresh Fruit And Vegetables. Food
and Drug Administration, USA, 1998).
In a given social and environmental context, urban pollution,
coupled with the scarce availability of safe foodstuffs, is
directly linked to the existence of the so-called water-borne
gastro-intestinal diseases (hepatitis, diarrheas, parasitic
mites and pinworms, leptospirosis), which are a recurrent
problem in populations where basic needs are unfulfilled,
especially among children. “Diarrhea, for instance, is one of
the five leading causes of death worldwide in children under
5 years of age” (Stineke Oenema, FAO/RLC 2001).
Gastro-intestinal diseases reduce the nutrient absorption
efficiency in humans, causing malnutrition, which in
turn minimizes a person’s immune defences, facilitating
re-infection or diminishing personal development.
3) SiMpliFied hydroponicS (Sh) Simplified Hydroponics, which was developed in Latin
America, is a suitable technological package that can be
easily adapted to the conditions of urban areas and the
urban periphery, in the following ways.
Firstly, the production system is isolated
from the soil. Planting takes place at a
convenient height, where soil pollution
has no impact. It allows for vegetables to
be produced “without soil” and in small
physical spaces. Plants are grown in
water containers or in low-cost natural
substrates (sand, rice husk, pumice, etc.).
With this system, it is possible to grow
a vast range of vegetables, for example
lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, celery,
watercress (Figure 2), eggplants, beans,
parsley, wild radish, leek, strawberries,
melons, aromatic and medicinal plants,
etc.Figure 2. Safe watercress and lettuce
Phot
o: A
quaf
ood
Use of limited space. One of the main advantages of Simplified
Hydroponics is the possibility of using urban spaces which
until now had not been considered adequate for growing
food (patios, small gardens, party walls, balconies, rooftops)
(Figure 4).
Use of hanging pipes – as an option, fruits and vegetables
can be grown in these, thus optimizing space, passing from
using m2 to m3 (Figure 3).
High efficiency in the use
of irrigation water, where
water is recycled and does
not pollute the environment
(Figure 3).
Pest, disease and weed control.
Simplified Hydroponics
facilitates the adoption of
Integrated Pest Management
(IPM) programs. There is also
a significant reduction in the
use of chemicals once used
to control pests and weeds.
Moreover, neither the produce
nor the environment are
contaminated by chemicals
(Figure 4).
Higher yields and shorter times between harvests. Hence, the
total output is greater than in conventional soil systems.
Easy to learn – the technique is easy to understand, it
does not require prior knowledge and concrete results are
achieved quickly.
Simplified Hydroponics is not highly technological and
requires only household labour, generally supplied by
women (Figures 4 and 5).
Use of recycled materials – it is possible to use recycled
materials to build growing systems.
Subsequently, growers can use materials they already have
on hand, e.g. wood, disposable packaging materials, etc.
(Figures 4 and 5).
Simplified Hydroponics is a source of income from direct
sales, for family or community owned micro-enterprises.
In simple terms, it is possible to grow high quality, safe
foodstuffs using Simplified Hydroponics techniques. Fruit
and vegetables have a high biological and dietary value.
Crops for household consumption are harvested when
they are ready to be used. Hence, the produce is fresh and
Figure 3. Strawberries grown upright in plastic boxes, plastic and PVC pipes, at a home-made con-venient height above the ground irrigation system which recycles
the water and nutrients.
2�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
INDUSTRYPhotos: A
quafood
retains its nutritional and medicinal properties (vitamins,
minerals, phyto-nutrients, etc.). As a result of these
benefits, the technique is being promoted by FAO/RLC as
part of its Urban Agriculture strategy for the production
of vegetables in limited spaces
in urban and peri-urban areas
(Popular Hydroponics Gardens
by J. Izquierdo – FAO/RLC, 1994
and PH&G No. 71).
In order to achieve maximum
quality, the availability of good
potable water is essential. This
drinking water may come from
the municipal tap water system,
it may be clean rainwater, or it
may be filtered and chlorinated.
To a large extent, this is made easier because of the low
water volume needed for Simplified Hydroponics.
Currently, the use of Simplified Hydroponics technology is
not widespread. Among the factors that account for this are
the following:
• Scarce dissemination of information concerning the
benefits of the technology.
• Constraints regarding the availability of trained technicians
with a working knowledge of Simplified Hydroponics and
who produce the nutrient solution locally and at a low
cost.
• Prevalence of the organic agriculture paradigm, where
fertilizers are seen as toxic. It would be valuable for
Simplified Hydroponics programs
of this nature to be implemented
by governments, municipalities,
non-governmental organizations
and international agencies. Such
programs could train more
technicians to teach Simplified
Hydroponics and provide easier
access to nutrient solutions.
To ensure food safety to the end
consumer, there needs to be a
plan from seed to plate. Such a
plan needs to look at familiar cost-
effective rainwater catchment
systems and/or water purification using chlorine and simple
filters. It is also necessary to continue researching more
options that can be adapted to the urban environment.
Fortunately, successful experiences with Simplified
Hydroponics are available, applied to urban locales with low
income populations. These programs started as a result of
private and governmental initiatives, including international
programs. These organizations have
found that Simplified Hydroponics
is a good alternative for producing
safer urban crops and they have
committed themselves to long-term
results.
conclUSionLow-cost Simplified Hydroponics
should be encouraged as one of
the basic tools for urban agriculture
worldwide, where it can be adapted
to conditions in urban and peri-urban areas to enhance food
security.
About the author:
Martin Caldeyro-Stajano is the President of the Uruguayan
Hydroponics Society (ASUDHI), an international consultant
and a regular contributor to Practical Hydroponics and
Greenhouses.
Sources:• Juan Izquierdo-Cesar Marulanda, “Popular Hydroponics Gardens”,
FAO/RLC, 1994.
• FAO, “Rome Declaration on World Food Security and World Food
Summit Plan of Action”, November 1996, Rome.
• Food and Drug Administration (FDA), US Department of
Agriculture Centers for Disease Control
and Prevention, “Final Guidance:
Guide to Minimize Microbial Food
Safety Hazards for Fresh Fruits and
Vegetables”, 1998.
• Stineke Oenema. “Home Food
Security”, FAO/RLC, 2001.
• FAO, “The State of Food Insecurity
in the World”, SOFI, 2003.
• Raloff Janet, “Leaden gardens”,
Science News; vol. 164, Nº 23,
Dec 6, 2003.
Email: [email protected] Website: www.chasque.net/aquafood
Figure 5. View of a family hydroponic system in the backyard of a house, using SH techniques, made of
simple materials. This garden is making the most of the party wall under the leadership of a woman. Yellow
traps catch insects (IPM).
This article was previously published in Australia by the magazine Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses
Figure 4. Small family greenhouse (10 m2)
AQUAFOOD is a consultant company, which dedicates to :
• Develop and execute social hydroponic projects.• Develop and execute commercial hydroponic projects.
• Teach hydroponics, through courses and lectures.• Promote vegetable hydroponic production as urban agriculture.
• Promote the use of aromatic plants.
AQUAFOOD - Cno. Servando Gómez 2491- Montevideo - UruguayTelefax: +598 2 6002299 - E-mail: [email protected]
www.chasque.net/aquafood
Ing. Agr. (M. Sc.) Martin Caldeyro StajanoConsultor InternacionalInternational Consultant
www.chasque.net/asudhi Available in English and Spanish
2�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
BOTANYPhotos: D
ave Guillem
ette
Perhaps during a recent walk you have noticed that where
there are flowers there are always insects? Since plants cannot
move, they have had to learn to exploit their environment –
it is a question of survival of the species. Flower production
is one method to take advantage of pollinating insects that
go from male to female flowers. Once flowers were created,
nature gave them different techniques to attract insects;
perfume is one of those. Whether it smells like a rose or like
rotten meat, each plant’s odour has its own use – and that
is what we shall explore.
Plants Emit PErfumEs to…-attract Pollinating insEcts
Some plants emit perfumes to attract insects. Foraging
insects bring pollen along and deposit it without intent on
a neighbouring flower, now fertilized. Flowers have varied
odours, and for a reason: each type of insect has particular
olfactive sensibilities and flowers do not all wish to attract
the same type of insect. Some plants, such as orchids, emit
little or no perfume – in that case, it is their shape which will
attract insects.
-rEPEl HErbivorEs Some plants, such as patchouli, emit odours that can repel
come animals and insects that would otherwise take a bite
out of the plant. This principle is at the basis of companion
gardening, where one repulsive plant is coupled to a
cultivated plant and keeps the insects at bay.
-EliminatE comPEtition
Plants secrete some substances that can prevent the
germination of seeds from other varieties up to a certain
distance. Some trees, such as the beech, secrete toxic
substances through their roots and thus limit the root
progression of other varieties of trees that are looking for
the same minerals. It is thus not surprising that beeches
tend to slowly eliminate other tree varieties to create a
monoculture.
-Warn of a DangEr
When an animal eats a large quantity of leaves, some tree
species become toxic and send a signal to other trees of
the same species growing nearby, for them to also become
toxic. A study was done in
1979 with potted willows.
Caterpillar-infected and non
infected plants were placed
in the same room. Two weeks
later, the defence mechanism
of all the plants, infected or
not, was active. That is to say
that plants communicate…
HoW DoEs it Work?Plants are able to emit odours because they can produce a
volatile compound called phenol. Phenols are benzene-based
and can travel long distances in the air or the wind. In many
cases, these gases are chemical signals aiming to generate
a physiological reaction within the plant, insect or animal
that perceives them. Some phenols, called flavonoids, are
responsible for the colouring and the smells used by plants
to attract pollinating insects. Phenols can even be released
in the air to attract an insect that feeds on the pest insect!
Phenolic compounds are at the core of allelopathy, the
plant’s capacity to inhibit the growth of other plants within
the same ecosystem. These volatile gases can be emitted by
all parts of the plant, and they form, more or less, a tree’s
alphabet!
victim or attackEr?Plants have found many ways to protect themselves against
predator organisms, and the roles are now reversed.
Herbivores are being manipulated by the many plants in their
environment and plants are no longer the victim. Insects
and mammals pollinate the flowers, spread the seeds and
eat plants – but not just any one of them, and not in too
large a quantity, or they could spread the word and react in
great number!
morPHological cHangE, PHysiological DEvEloPmEnt
PErfumE, alWaysby DavE guillEmEttE
For those who enjoy sitting by a fountain in the park, or
by a mountain stream to relax with the soothing sound of
running water, I am here to tell you how you may bring
that experience into your home by creating an indoor water
feature that is both relaxing and easy to maintain. Whether
you call it a fountain, a water garden or an indoor stream,
most water features are composed of the same basic parts:
• A reservoir to hold the water
• A small water pump to move the water
• A structure for the water to flow over (rocks, wood, or a
sheet of glass)
Once you have the basic elements you may add items to
personalise your feature. Many people like to incorporate
ambient lighting and plants into their fountains to add a
natural look that complements the sound of running water.
This may easily be done and does not make maintenance
any more difficult. Some may wish to adapt the feature to
be a water fountain for pets. If you decide to make a feature
for animals, be sure to think about what plants, if any, you
incorporate into the feature, because a thirsty cat may also
decide to snack on your bamboo if it is accessible.
Indoor water features have
become very popular and
are often available at home
and garden centers all year
round. Whether you want a
pre-fabricated one that sits
on a shelf or want to try your
hand at making your own,
the materials needed are
usually easy to obtain.
I will tell you about
some of the
styles of water
f e a t u r e s
available and how to start your own.
The quickest and easiest way to have an indoor water
feature is to go to a home and garden center to look at what
is available. Most stores that carry them have a selection of
styles and sizes. Some specialty garden centers will tend to
have a larger selection ranging from 15 centimetres high to
1.8 meters high, all ready to receive water and be plugged
in, so do a bit of looking around before you buy and you
will have a better chance of finding one that fits well in your
home.
The more ambitious may decide to make their own. Here
are some hints on how to go about doing just that and what
is required as far as planning and materials.
Planning your design is the most important part of the
process: it will determine the lifespan, efficiency and look of
the final product and will also give an indication of how long
it will take to complete and how much it is going to cost.
I like to start by finding where I want the water feature to
be. Knowing how much sunlight and how much household
traffic that area gets are major factors in placing the water
feature, especially if you plan to add plants. Think about
the people and pets in your home and the likelihood of the
water feature getting bumped or knocked over. Always
keep in mind the water aspect of your feature – an overflow
could mean water damage in your home or someone else’s
if you live in an apartment. Water is heavy (1 gallon weighs
8.35 lbs, i.e. 1 litre weighs 1 kilogram); if you do not support
the weight of a water feature properly, it could collapse,
and cleaning up a collapsed water feature is not relaxing.
So armed with the possible setbacks in mind, pick a safe
and accessible spot, and remember that you still want to be
able to see it as well as hear it. With any fountain or trickling
water feature, there is a chance that some water may splash
a bit, so be careful around furniture and electricity and do
your best to build a structure that will deter splashing. The
area chosen will then help dictate how large or small you
want to build your feature.
Another option is to set up an aquarium with aquatic plants.
It is less maintenance than one with fish and may be just as
beautiful and rewarding. For this you will need an aquarium
with a water pump, water heater, gravel or stones to hold the
plants in place and aquatic plants, all of which are available at
pet shops, usually as an aquarium start-up kit (not including
the aquatic plants). Aquarium sizes and plant species vary a
great deal and aquarium stones and gravel come in many
30THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
GARDEN DESIGNPhoto: A
quasculpture
Indoor Water Features, by edWard Jackson
colours, so it is fairly easy to find something that suits
your home. Setting up is quite easy. Place the aquarium in
your chosen location on a solid surface – because once an
aquarium is full of water, it may be too heavy to move and
might collapse a shelf or small table. Be aware that direct
sunlight will affect water temperature and may encourage
algae growth on the inside walls of the aquarium, which
may block light thus affecting plant growth, so select your
plants and the location of the aquarium accordingly.
Once you have chosen a location, fill the aquarium halfway
with water. Without plugging it in, place the water pump
where it will be when the aquarium is running – some
are mounted on the side of the aquarium and others are
submerged in the aquarium itself. Then place the water
heater in a similar manner – heaters are also either side-
mounted or submerged. Both the heater and the pump will
be plugged in later.
Now you are ready to add the gravel or stones you have
selected to hold the plants in place. Most stones and gravel
need to be rinsed under running water before they are
added to the aquarium, as dust on them may clog your
water pump. I recommend placing them in a strainer and
running warm water over them while gently stirring with
your hand to help loosen any dirt on the gravel or stones.
Now that they have been rinsed you may place them in
the aquarium. It is best to add them slowly rather than
dumping them in all at once, not just because you could
crack the aquarium but because of the displacement of
the water created by adding the stones or gravel. It is the
same principle as filling a bath tub to its full capacity then
climbing in: water will be displaced and overflow. With the
pump and heater in place, slowly add water to the half-filled
aquarium to raise the water level. If you want the sound of
trickling water, simply leave a 2-centimetre gap between the
water surface and the return spout of the water pump. For
a louder water running sounds, lower the water level in the
aquarium, but be sure that it is not too low for the water
pump or heater to work; if it is too low the pump will be
“running dry” and eventually it will burn out the motor and
stop working and heaters may explode if they are run dry.
Water pumps need to be submerged or have water running
through them at all times and heaters need to be in water to
work properly. Now that the water is at the level you want,
plug in and turn the pump and heater on to let the water
circulate. This will give you an idea of how quiet or loud your
water sounds are.
Once everything is running to your satisfaction and all the
gravel and stones are in place, the next step is introducing
plants to the aquarium. I prefer to leave the aquarium running
without plants for at least a week once the water and gravel
are in place, just to let the water quality stabilize as far as
temperature and pH. You may also add aquatic plant food to
prepare the water for when the plants arrive.
This step is not completely necessary,
but if you are able to be patient it
will provide a stable environment
for the new plants. Remember that
no matter where you acquire your
aquatic plants, they are coming from
a healthy, stable environment (or else
they wouldn’t be growing) and throwing
them into an aquarium of cold, unstable,
nutrient-free water could be enough to kill them, so try to
be patient during the set up process. It will save you return
trips to buy new plants. When selecting your plants, talk
to the salespeople about what you hope to achieve with
your aquarium and let them know that there will be no fish
to provide the plants with natural nutrients. They should
be able to guide your selection and tell you of appropriate
plant nutrients. When you are ready to add the plants, there
are a few things to keep in mind while arranging them in
the aquarium. Water pumps have an intake where water is
drawn into the pump – there is a suction current created,
which can pull plants into the pump if they are too close, so
try to keep plants away from the intake area of your water
pump. Another thing to consider is the spacing between
plants, because as they grow they will spread out in all
directions, even under the gravel and stones, so don’t place
them too close together or they may compete for space and
choke one another out.
After about a week you will notice better growth because
the plants do need time to adjust to their new environment.
Over all, it is about a two week process to set everything up
and have a healthy, stable aquatic garden. It may of course
be done in an hour if you must, but my experience with all
plants is that patience yields better harvests.
In the second part of this article, we will discuss other types
of indoor water features.
Phot
o: S
piri
t Ele
men
ts
31
GARDEN DESIGN
32THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
Photos: Aquasculpture, M
ontrealGALLERY
Aquasculpture…
3�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
Photos: Aquasculpture, M
ontrealGALLERY
Aquasculpture…
3�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
PLANT HEALTH
When you need to give plants – especially valuable plants, heirlooms, rare species, friends’ plants
that you are responsible for while they are away – an adequate nutritive solution that is neither too
strong nor too weak, questions arise: which brand should you use and, within the available brands,
should you make a horizontal choice, using one line of products, or a vertical association of specific
products from different brands? There are many possibilities, an infinite quantity of associations
and opinions all over the spectrum.
I – A Question Of Personal Choice And Of Experience! (B.B.)Trusting one brand over others starts with the preparation of soil. Some gardeners prefer to mix
their own soil using their favourite products, as this gardener states on his personal web site
(http://perso.club-internet.fr/kills/pages/nutri.html): “If you buy soil, you will probably not need
to give nitrogen to the plants, but I prefer mixing my own soil because I do not have faith in
commercial soil mixes. I know at least one large brand of soil that made a great quantity of potting
soil using pondage water that contained too much boron, and nothing could grow in it. With
extremely valuable exotic plants, I cannot allow myself to believe the opinion of strangers to make
my soil. To be sure that it is well made, you must make it yourself.”
Plant Foods – Part 3Choosing A Nutritive Solution: Using A Complete Line Of Products
From The Same Brand Or Combining Many? by, William S.Burns on Begonia Rex caused by too much sun exposure.
Inset: Burns on a strawberry plant, caused by nutritive deficiencies.
Photos: Bruno Bredoux & SA
DEF
As for nutrients, whether we use the same product line
or we alternate, the most important thing is not to use a
heavy hand. Some indoor gardeners have acquired with the
years the necessary experience to combine and associate
brands: one product for cuttings, one for growth, another
for flowering, etc. It works because they have tested their
brand associations throughout the years. A beginner or an
uncertain gardener will rather use a complete product line.
Some gardeners think it is better to alternate; others, after
costly experiments, prefer to use only one product line, which
allows them not to question everything. A gardener burnt
by a destroyed crop due to over-fertilization caused by the
successive application of several nutrient
brands exclaims (as reported
on his discussion forum):
“Now I use all the nutrients
from the same brand and I
feel more at ease. I only add
the BN-Zym bio-catalyst
[Bio-Nova-brand enzymes,
editor’s note], because it
gives me good results. I rinse
the substrate once every two weeks with BN-Zym.
Other than that, I only use nutrients from the same brand.
No more mixing products from two companies!”
Manufacturers, of course, recommend that we use their
entire product line. It is sometimes good, however, to listen
to the advice of your hydroponic products salesperson. If
you hesitate, ask the salesperson for his or her professional
advice – it is based on foolproof experience. Public quality
labels can also be interesting, if not an unavoidable point
in favour of certain brands. A plant requires the perfect
association of at least 17 nutritive elements to grow well
– you are thus justified to hesitate and think things over
before finding the products that will help it the most. The 17
essential elements are the following: light, carbon dioxide,
hydrogen, nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, calcium,
sulphide, molybdenum, iron, manganese, magnesium,
boron, copper, zinc and chlorine. This list, however, is not
exhaustive. Depending on the plant varieties grown, all kind
of other macronutrients and micronutrients are required,
from trace minerals to fresh ashes to granite dust!
A nutritive deficit is easily identifiable through the burns
that can appear on your plant’s leaves. Some companies
have specialized in the diagnosis of nutritional deficiencies
from a photograph or a scan of the affected leaves! Most of
those companies offer a complete analysis and recommend
product lines from companies they are affiliated with.
Once again, your gullibility and your confidence will be put
to the test. Each gardener must weigh the evidence and
decide whom to trust. The SADEF is a French company
(SARL) with 33 employees, based in Alsace (Aspach-le-
Bas, Upper Rhine) that specializes in environmental and
agronomic analysis and expertise. The company has an
analysis lab to answer the international requests for analysis
related to plant nutrition (www.sadef.fr). According to its
motto, “Agriculture – whether French, European, even
international – is more and more contractualized, both on
a production level (food safety requirements, maintenance
of soil production potential, etc.) and on an environmental
constraint level (respect of directives on nitrate, phosphorous
follow-up, livestock waste, spreading of garbage plans, etc.)
Analysis performed by laboratories officially recognized for
their competence and impartiality will allow us to meet the
agro-environmental world’s expectations as well as those of
citizen consumers.”
All this mostly tends to confirm how plant nutrition is a
serious, regulated and sensitive field. In this issue, William S.
from Growing Edge Technologies
(G.E.T.) gives us the best
method to follow to use
his company’s complete
product line. The
products, collectively,
are called “G.E.T. The
Power”.
II – A Family Of Nutriments: Get The Best Out Of The Growing Edge Technologies (G.E.T. The Power) Products! (William S.)
It involves a bit of extra work, but as with any project that
I have ever worked on, I found that a little extra care made
for many years’ worth of fine enjoyment! Each of our B &
B Hydroponic Gardens store managers has been taught this
plant feeding method: feel free to ask any of them more
specific questions regarding your specific applications.
As a plant goes through its natural stages of development,
its needs for certain mineral elements increase. Using G.E.T.’s
Power Products charged elements is recommended for the
overall health of the plant. These products are designed to
deliver that extra mineral element, which a plant requires Phot
os: B
io N
ova
& B
runo
Bre
doux
3�VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER
PLANT HEALTH
Freshly fertilized
dahlia shoots.
for development. Timing is everything! When applied at
the proper time, the plants can benefit greatly. Do not use
more than the recommended amounts until you are familiar
with the product. Experiment with a few plants and see the
results; try the product at different strengths and different
times. We use very pure, high-grade mineral elements.
You can use this family of products with any nutrient
solution, soil or hydroponics.
1) The ChartPrepping soil : add all dry ingredients, mix thoroughly
together (Soil-less soil 107 l, Bat Power 250 ml, Kelp Power
250 ml, Gel Power 250 ml, Coal Power, lime (use a fine grit
lime) 750 ml).
The Aroma Formula: Start building the nutrient solution
using 12 ml of the Aroma Formula VA & VB concentrates
(for vegetative growth) and 20 ml of the MB (Micro Base)
concentrate per 10 litres of water for hydroponics and 15
litres of water for soilless soil. Change the nutrient solution
every four days. Monitor the leaf colour to see if you need to
increase or decrease the amount of VA & VB concentrates.
When the leaves are light green, it usually requires an
increase of one ml of concentrate or more. When the
leaves are dark green, hold or lower the amount of A& B
concentrates. Always use 20 ml of the MB concentrate. For
herbs, flowers and vegetables, use VA & VB with MB from
seedling to the beginning of flowering or fruit production;
at this time, switch to FA & FB with MB. Start mixing the
Aroma Formula FA & FB solutions, 1 ml over the level that
you were at during the vegetation stage. Keep increasing or
decreasing based on the colouring of the leaves. Always use
20 ml of the MB concentrate. There are growers who only
use 19 to 22 ml of the A& B concentrates, staying with a
normal growth rate, which is highly recommended.
Cuttings: use Power Thrive at the rate of 4 ml per litre of
water. Use nutrient solution at 3 strength.
Transplanting: use Power Thrive at the rate of 4 ml per litre
of water and use Power Transplant.
Vegetation f irst 8 days:
a) use Power Thrive at the rate of 2 ml per litre of water.
b) use Power Start at the rate of 2 ml per litre of water.
Vegetation: use Power Start at the rate of 3 ml per litre of
water.
Vegetation last week: use Power PreFlowers at the rate of 3
ml per litre of water.
Flowering: use Power Preflowers at the rate of 3 ml per litre
of water.
Flowering boost: use Power To Bloom at the rate of 1 ml
(1 gram) per 10 litres of water. Four days later use Umph
Power.
Flowering boost 4 days later: mist Umph Power at the rate of
4 ml per litre of water.
Last 4 weeks f lowering: use Power Fruit Set at the rate of
3 ml per litre of water for the last four weeks of flowering.
(Power Start, Power PreFlowers, Power Fruit Set can be used
as a growing medium drench, but also can be used as a
foliar mist at the rate of 10 ml per litre of water).
Last week of f lowering: use the Rinse Solution at the rate of 1
ml per liter of water. Depending on the shade of green you
have, will take between – light green, 3 days, – dark green,
observe 8 days, – of the Rinse Solution.
Hydroponics or plants planted in soilless soil: use Sea Power
at the rate of 5-10 ml per litre of water.
Humic fertil ization: Humic Power a) soil: soak at 15 ml per 4 litres of water.
b) hydroponics: 15 ml per 10 litres of water.
c) soil to hydroponics: use at least three times per crop.
(May be used every time you water plants).
Fulvic fertil ization: Fulvic Power at the rate of 2 ml per litre
of water; mist plants once every two weeks.
a) soil: soak at the rate of 5 ml per 10 litres of water.
b) hydroponics: mix 1 ml per litre of water.
Warning: When trying something new, always test it on a few
leaves or branches to make sure the product is compatible
with your nutrient formula program. We are always trying
our products at different stages and strengths. This allows
us to find out what way works best, but
you as the gardener will be monitoring
your plants with a daily visit. And as
the gardener, you will find out what
will work best for you. So follow our
instructions and then experiment.
�0THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
PLANT HEALTHPhoto: Burns on B
egonia Rex caused by too much sun exposure (Bruno Bredoux).
2) The “G.E.T. The Power” Products• The Aroma FormulaGarden plants don’t just thrive on the Aroma Formula but
exceed their normal growth potential, with dynamic flowers
and better overall health. G.E.T. has separated the various
components and trace elements necessary for growth into
five concentrated nutrient solutions, two for vegetative
growth (VA & VB), two for flowering (FA & FB) and a chelated
trace element compound {MB) used throughout the entire
growth cycle. Adding the micro base separately ensures
that these trace elements are not damaged by unfavourable
pH levels. The Aroma Formula’s unique properties also
enhance the aromatic oils
produced by most herbs,
resulting in a dense rich
fragrance, which lends
itself to any meal.
• Power ThrivePower Thrive is not a plant food. Power Thrive is a carefully
formulated blend of vitamins and natural plant hormones
derived from kelp, for use during all phases of plant
development. Our chemist has
discovered a unique way of
extracting the valuable growth
potential from kelp, one of the
world’s fastest growing plants.
Power Thrive helps your plants
survive during stressful periods
of growth, especially when
starting seeds, transplanting,
or taking cuttings. Power Thrive
also ensures a stronger, more
vigorous vegetation growth.
When used during flowering, blooms become more vibrant
and the fruit quality is enhanced.
• Power To BloomTypical vegetation stage to flowering stage of plants.
Just a powder fertilizer?
No! It’s a proven flower
enhancer! Power to
Bloom’s unique chemistry
makes it work. When
applied at the right time,
it provides your plants
with plenty of flower
power. Plants will flower
so profusely that you will notice significant changes in three
to four days. And wait until you see the results of the second
application!
Power To Bloom should be used once plants are starting to
bloom heavily, at about the third week of flowering. You
will notice flowers starting to be reproduced like crazy; at
this time, add Power To Bloom. Allow plants to utilize the
fertilizer for two weeks before the next application.
• Umph PowerWhen a plant is growing at a very
rapid rate, some or all of the elements
will be utilized at a very fast pace. We
recommend misting your garden with
Umph Power. Umph Power is formulated
to provide key mineral elements that,
when applied as a foliar mist onto the
leaves, will bring out the oils.
• Rocket PowerUpward fluctuations in your nutrient solution’s pH is a sign
that your plants are feeding heavily and are in great health.
A continual drop in pH indicates
that the plant is fighting off a
virus or bacterial infection in
the root zone. Using fertilizer
programs that have pH buffers
is not an option, and it’s not
as easy to continually monitor
soil or soilless mediums. Rocket
Power is designed to increase
the health of a plant by giving
it pure mineral elements and a
kick-start of growth so that it
can get a head start and fend
off its disease. Use also if the
surface of the leaves is dull – healthy leaves have a vibrant
shine to them. Note: Apply to the root zone only!
• The Rinse SolutionMost gardeners use water to flush the excess fertilizer
salts from their plant roots, so that
the remaining nutrients are utilized.
This ensures that the harvested plant
contains fewer nitrates but it restricts
the production of sugars and starches
and slows the plant’s development.
The Rinse Solution provides fast acting
sugars and starches that fuel growth
�1VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER
PLANT HEALTHPh
otos
: B &
B H
ydro
poni
c G
arde
ns —
Illu
stra
tion
: Ann
a K
anar
as
while still allowing the plant to deplete the remains of
certain mineral elements in its system. More growth, more
fruit, better taste!
• Power StartThis Power formula produces fast results on young plants.
Power Start helps to build stronger, larger, and healthier
plant stock and roots, which
are needed to achieve high
yields of fruit and vegetables.
Apply Power Start at the
first stage of foliage growth
and continue every five to
seven days.
• Power PreFlowerThis unique formula is for blossom set.
We formulated Power PreFlowers to be
high in phosphate to stimulate the setting
of blossoms on garden plants. Power
PreFlowers is recommended at the first
signs of blossoms. Always spray in the
early moming, apply every five to seven
days.
• Power Fruit SetThis formula is designed to increase the
setting of fruits, pods, tubers, etc. Apply
Power Fruit Set when the plants are at
about 70% bloom and 30% fruit. Always
spray early in the morning. Apply Power
Fruit Set every five to seven days.
• Transplant PowerGive your transplants an added boost of growth during
this critical time in their life – remember getting kicked out
of the womb and those first few minutes of life when you
cried? You wanted back in there! Well, think about the poor
plant you just ripped out of the incubation tray and shoved
under a harsher, much stronger light. Now you need to use
Transplant Power with its vitamin-
enriched gel. Transplant Power
sticks to the root ball and doesn’t
easily wash away like most water-
soluble fertilizers. It provides the
roots with the mineral elements
that the plant needs for a healthy
start. The growth potential of
Transplant Power is enhanced
when mixed with plant hormones – such as Power Thrive
– before use.
• Fulvic PowerFulvic Power is a gold-coloured liquid that,
when applied as a foliar spray, will give
plants a growth spurt or more flowering
power. When applied to the soil, it will cause
the roots to expand rapidly, looking to fuel
their growth. More roots means healthier
plants. (Fulvic Power is a by-product of the
manufacturing of Humic Power.)
• Humic PowerHumic acid helps the plant with its cationic and anionic
exchange and results in more mineral elements flowing
through the vascular system. Humic Power releases many
minerals, vitamins, amino acids and
growth enhancing compounds,
for faster vegetation growth
and increased flower formation.
Humic Power also has buffering
capabilities for pH and high salt
content and promotes better
germination rates among seeds.
• Kelp Power and Sea PowerFor hundreds of years, island farmers have gathered kelp,
washed out the sea salt and spread the dried kelp out on
their fields before planting. With Sea Power, your plants
can continue to benefit from the power
of kelp during all stages of their growth
development. Sea Power is a liquefied kelp
concentrate that, like Kelp Power, contains
many growth regulators and mineral
elements. Sea Power is processed with
fresh water to minimize any alteration in
growth potential due to harsh chemicals.
• Gel PowerPowerful Gel Power is a synthetic polyacrylamide with a
potassium salt base. It is a safe, non toxic polymer used
in all horticultural applications. When used according to
the application rates, Gel Power can reduce irrigation
frequency by 50% and last three to five
years. Gel Power is specifically designed for
the horticultural and agricultural industry
to reduce the transplanting shock, reduce
the stress from drought and to increase the
aeration of the soil. Gel Power holds a lot of
water; 5 ml of Gel Power will retain 500 to
750 ml of water.
�2THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
PLANT HEALTH
BWGS is a Proud Distributor of Sunleaves Garden Products.
7854 N. SR 37 Bloomington, IN 47404
2247 N. Plaza Drive Visalia, CA 93291
Get the new Gardener’sDigest - available now.96 pages of great products and info.Ask for it by name.
BWGS 800-316-1306 BWGS WEST 888-316-1306fax 800-316-1264 fax 800-316-1264
Our business-to-business website continues to set the standard.• Easy Online Ordering• Downloadable POS literature
and MSDS data sheets• Easy Online Freight Claims• Online Return Authorizations
Downloadable product instructions & warranty information.
Find a store near you withour online store locator!
Most complete up-to-datelisting of Sunleaves® products.
Indoor_Gardener_SLnewweb.qxd 5/22/06 4:47 PM Page 1
Photos: B & B H
ydroponic Gardens
Phot
os:
BWGS is a Proud Distributor of Sunleaves Garden Products.
7854 N. SR 37 Bloomington, IN 47404
2247 N. Plaza Drive Visalia, CA 93291
Get the new Gardener’sDigest - available now.96 pages of great products and info.Ask for it by name.
BWGS 800-316-1306 BWGS WEST 888-316-1306fax 800-316-1264 fax 800-316-1264
Our business-to-business website continues to set the standard.• Easy Online Ordering• Downloadable POS literature
and MSDS data sheets• Easy Online Freight Claims• Online Return Authorizations
Downloadable product instructions & warranty information.
Find a store near you withour online store locator!
Most complete up-to-datelisting of Sunleaves® products.
Indoor_Gardener_SLnewweb.qxd 5/22/06 4:47 PM Page 1
��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
PLANT HEALTH
There finally is an ecological and natural solution for fly
control. The solution? Using microscopic beneficial worms
called threadworms or nematodes.
To Each InsEcT ITs nEmaTodEThere are many species of nematodes.
Each species attacks specifically a
limited number of harmful pests.
Some nematodes attack beetles,
some attack lepidoptera, others
attack diptrous insects, and some
species attack more than one group of
pests. The most efficient nematodes
to use against fly larvae are called
Steinernema feltiae.
The most common flies controlled by
S. feltiae are, among others, sciarid
flies, small fruit flies and houseflies
WhEn To apply nEmaTodEsIt is advised to apply nematodes as soon as you observe
adult flies or find larvae or pupae. For use outdoors, apply
nematodes at dusk or under cloudy conditions.
WhErE To apply nEmaTodEsNematodes must be applied on organic substrate, soil, coco
fibre or on rock wool. They can also be introduced in a drip-
irrigation system or in other types of irrigation systems. Keep
in mind, however, that these small beneficial worms are not
fish: they can only survive in water for a few hours. Never
apply nematodes directly to the plant or its leaves.
An EcologicAl Solution AgAinSt Fly ProblEmSPar Daniel Gingras
Phot
os: G
uy B
élai
r, Bi
bion
& A
EF G
loba
l Inc
.
Nematodes can also be used outdoors. You can use them,
for example, in compost, manure or in a vegetable garden
to control onion maggots, carrot flies or cabbage flies.
Why UsE nEmaTodEs?Nematodes are useful because adult flies often are disease
carriers and because fly larvae can affect the growth of
plants.
S. feltiae efficiently control the larvae of many fly species
and diptrous insects that develop in organic matter. When
they find larvae, the small worms penetrate them through
natural orifices such as the mouth, anus or others. Once
in the blood stream, the nematodes release symbiotic
bacteria that proliferate and cause the larvae’s death. The
nematodes then develop by feeding off of the insect’s
carcass. A few days later, thousands of tiny worms leave
the carcass, bringing along the symbiotic bacteria. They are
ready to infect other live larvae. Because of this mode of
reproduction, the gardener will see the largest quantity of
dead larvae a few days after the treatment, and
not immediately after it. The nematode-infested
larvae are usually brown, grey or black
arE ThEy dangEroUs For planTs and hUmans?Nematodes present no danger for plant health
or human health. They do not affect plant
growth.
WhErE can I gET nEmaTodEs?At AEF Global inc., a Québec-based company
that is specialized in the research, development
and commercialization of ecological solutions
for the control of pests, diseases and weeds. The company
can be reached at 1 866 622-3222, extension 114. For more
information, see its web site: www.aefglobal.com.
��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
INDUSTRY
Through time, humanity on occasion has come up with quantum leaps in technology.
Hydroponics, the printing press, electricity, the light bulb, the radio, the TV, HID
lighting, the Internet, and, yes, high intensity fluorescent indoor grow lights. They are
a complete paradigm shift, a new way of looking at things.
Stephen R. Covey has said, “If you want to make small changes in your life, change your
attitude and change your behavior. If you want to make quantum leap changes, then
change your paradigm!” Indoor growing with high intensity fluorescent systems is just
that: a quantum leap in indoor gardening. It means less heat and more production at
less than half the energy consumption. It also means plants that are happier, healthier,
and produce a greater yield.
In multiple controlled tests, we have documented a 25% increase in production with
half the wattage for vegetative growth. We have seen 210 to 220 watts outperforming
400 watts metal halide lamps and 420 to 440 watts
outperforming 1000 watt metal halide lamps. Not only
did the plants produce more – they were healthier, with
tighter internodal spacing and a hardier stem wall. The
hardier plants also acclimated much better to being
transplanted outdoors.
For some of us who have been indoor gardeners for over
30 years, this was unbelievable. I thought I was very wise
when I said “Fluorescents are good for the first inch of
growth – if that. Spindly, low production, weak plants,
etc.” And yet! At no time in my life have I enjoyed eating
my words more.
Para Lumen Paradigm ShiftHigh Intensity Fluorescent Plant Growth – T5 and TT105
By Charles Winslow Photo: Charles Winslow
Pioneer light above peppers
Pioneer light above peppers
Roots of peppers grown under a Pioneer light
Compared peppers under a HID light
High intensity fluorescents offer many advantages. Because
the units consume half the energy, you can gang more
units on a 15 amp system. The units can be hung vertically
or horizontally for additional lower canopy plant lighting.
With less heat emitted, more units can be run with less
ventilation, closer to the plants. The lamps have a much
longer life than metal halides. Finally, their light spectrum is
closer to daylight.
Most gardeners know that a plant’s canopy is very good at
preventing light from reaching the lower parts of the plants.
With vertical lighting, this is no longer a problem. When the
plants go into flowering, additional T5 or TT105’s can be
hung on the sides of the plants or a sodium fixture can be
placed over the canopy and the T5/TT105 can be moved to
the sides for an increased production.
In the last month, we have done several transfers of
hydroponic plants from indoor gardens to outdoors. The
basil under T5’s performed beautifully with no loss. The
peppers grown under a 1000-watt sodium lamp took a
60% loss. The new fluorescent lights drastically add new
value and production for indoor gardening.
Vertical Pioneer light
��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
INDUSTRY
It appears that in a side-by-side trial, the Satellite II fluorescent light surpasses metal halide lights.
In a three-month, side-by-side test, habañero pepper plants growing under a 210-watt Sunleaves Satellite II fixture exhibited healthier, more compact growth than habañero peppers grown under a standard 400-watt metal halide lamp. Aside from the spacing and the type of light offered, the growing conditions of the pepper plants were identical: hydroponic system, type and amount of nutrients, substrate and light cycle duration.
All plants were grown in continuous aeration hydroponic systems. In each system, a submersible pump suctioned to the bottom of the nutrient reservoir continually splashed Technaflora’s Recipe for Success vegetative growth formula onto the roots. The pepper plants were started in horticultural grow plugs and then placed in plastic net cups containing expanded clay pellets.
With regard to light intensity, the Satellite II, equipped with two full-spectrums TT-105 fluorescent “grow” bulbs, emitted a total of 21,000 lumens and the metal halide lamp put out 30,000 lumens. The pepper plants were positioned as near each light as possible without scorching – 46 centimetres from the metal halide lamp and 10 centimetres from the fluorescent fixture. Despite the marked difference in total lumen output, light meter readings taken at the plant canopy level registered higher for plants growing under the Satellite II. Plants received 18 hours of light daily.
Photo: Charles Winslow
, Agriculture &
Agro-Food Canada &
How
ard Resh
THE TEST: The Satellite Fluorescent Light II TestBy Charles Winslow
Figure 1 – On the left,
habañero pepper seedlings
grow under the metal
halide lamp while seedlings
on the right grow under
a fluorescent light.
Note: metal
halide and
fluorescent
lights are
contained
on each
side with
the help of
a hanging
Mylar divider.
Figure 2 – Pepper plants
growing under the metal
halide lamp on the left
appear slightly taller
and paler than plants
growing under
fluorescents
on the
right.
Figure 3 – In addition to
setting some early blooms,
the plants growing under
fluorescents exhibit more
compact growth with
visibly shorter inter-nodal
spacing.
Figure 4 – The pepper
plants on the left have
now set some blooms,
but, overall, the vegetative
growth looks “leggy”
with very long inter-nodal
spacing. The plants on the
right have larger
leaves and
denser
growth.
Peppers under Pioneer light
PARTICIPATE IN OUR DRAW FOR SUSCRIBERS2 PRIZES – 1 WINNER
Prizes will be awarded by draw among the subscribers (all subscription slips received by Green Publications as of August 31, 2006). We will contact the winners and put them in touch with the companies, who will then tell them how to claim their prize. By participating in this context, the winners accept that their name and city of residence be published in the magazine. This draw is only available for subscribers residing in Canada or the United States.
The Jurassic Products are proud to offer you 4 containers of 1kg of their nutritive supplements for all growth phases:* accelerate growth;* increase stem and trunk strength;* optimize flowering.
Value: 4 x 111.98$, i.e. 447.92$ on the whole.
Distributed by: www.megawatthydro.com or 1-800-575-2515or Jurassic Products: 1-888-381-5252
“Everything you always wanted to know about hydroponics, but didn’t know where to look!”
MegaWatt Hydro-Culture is proud to offer you a Future Brite™ HID, HPS 400 watt ballast: * designed for any growth environment; * increased luminosity; * covers large surfaces with fluorescent lighting; * decreased electricity usage (27 to 37%); * very light electronic ballast; * superior performance.
www.megawatthydro.comPhone: 1-450-226-2515Toll free: 1-800-575-2515
o Payment: postal money order or certified bank cheque made to the order of: Green Publications.o §INTERNATIONAL: PAYMENT IN CANADIAN DOLLARS THROUGH INTERNATIONAL POSTAL MONEY ORDERo •Québec residents, shipping and handling, GST and QST included.o &Other provinces, with GST only = $4.55 per issue (GST included) or 6 issues for $27.30 (GST included + add your provincial tax).
Return this form to: Green Publications, Subscriptions, Postal Box 183, Saint-Michel Station,Montreal, QC, H2A 3L9, CANADA
Name/First name: ______________________________________ Age (optional): ________ Phone no. (optional): ___________________
Address: ______________________________________________ Apt.# ________ City: _________________
Province: ____________________ Postal Code: _______________________ Country: _______________________
ATTENTION: EXPIRES AT THE END OF August 2006 (Source: T.I.G. — Vol.2 Issue 1)
GET THE MAGAZINE STRAIGHT TO YOUR HOME!
For the love of indoor gardening!Gardening indoors is not only providing motherly love for a few cacti in the living room:
it also includes growing tomatoes, strawberries and lettuce in industrial quantities.Such is the cornerstone of the magazine The Indoor Gardener, to cover the expectations
of the amateur indoor gardener as well as those of the commercial growerin charge of a farming operation.
ISSUE 1 - APRIL 2005ISSUE 2 - AUGUST 2005ISSUE 3 - OCTOBER 2005
ISSUE 4 - DEC. 2005
ISSUE 6 - MAY 2006ISSUE 5 - MARCH 2006
PAST ISSUES (check off the issues above) - Price per issue: $4.90
YES, I will subscribe! (6 issues for $29.40, shipping & handling and taxes included for Québec)•
I am a resident of Québec• I am a resident of Canada& I reside elsewhere§
INTERNATIONAL SURFACE SHIPPING = $35.00 CAN (6 issues sent by boat);
INTERNATIONAL AIRMAIL = $45.00 CAN (6 issues by airmail);
I would like my subscription to begin with issue:_______
_______ issue(s) X $4.90 = $__________One issue:
$4.90 (includes taxes &
shipping & handling)
VOL.1 ISSUE 1 - APRIL 2005 VOL.1 ISSUE 2 - AUGUST 2005 VOL.1 ISSUE 3 - OCT. 2005 VOL.1 ISSUE 4 - DEC. 2005
VOL.1 ISSUE 6 - MAY 2006 VOL.2 ISSUE 1 - JULY 2006VOL.1 ISSUE 5 - MARCH 2006 VOL.2 ISSUE 2 - SEPT. 2006
ORDER PAST ISSUES or SUBSCRIBE TO 6 ISSUES FOR $29.40 (taxes and shipping & handling included)
VOLUME 2 ISSUE 2,
SEPTEMBER 2006,WILL BE AVAILABLE
AT THE ENDOF AUGUST 2006.
52THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
PLANT PHYSIOLOGY
To understand what the root mass or the root system is, we
must first answer a few questions:
• What is its function and what does it do?
• It must then be defined, as there are many types of root
masses, and each takes a different form.
• Finally, we must know where the roots come from and how
they differ from the mass.
The root is the underground part of the plant, and it has two
functions: to fixate the plant in soil, and to feed the entire plant
through the absorption of water and of the nutritive
substances required for its development – the
root’s extension allows the plant to get
water from further and further layers. It is
important to note that the soil’s drainage
and irrigation play an important role in the
quality and quantity of the root mass and of
the nutritive exchanges.
The plant’s root system can take on many different
shapes and forms. There are, among others, primary roots,
secondary, capillary and tap roots. The root system can be made
up of a single large root (taproot) on which lateral or secondary
roots develop, as is the case for oaks, radishes, carrots, etc.
The root system can be made up of equally important roots
(fasciculated roots), each bearing many lateral roots, as in apple
trees and grains. Adventitious roots (roots of the strawberry
runners, of ivy shoots, etc.) are roots that come from a stem
or a rhizome.
Depending on the environment and the conditions, the roots
can sustain remarkable changes: there are buttress roots, that
seem to prop up entire trees (fig tree) or that seem to hold
it above the soil and water (as in many equatorial species),
creeping roots, sucker roots (as in the vanilla tree), etc.
When the cutting or the clone first starts, the cell that will
become a root cell is like all others. Under the influence
of a hormone – the auxin – contained in the rooting gel or
synthesized by the plant itself in smaller quantities, however,
the cell elongates to become a draft root, which will then
develop just like the seed’s radicle (see below), and the whole
of the roots will form the root system.
The first root to develop from a seed is the radicle. It comes
from the embryo contained in the seed and in a few days it
will shoot out ramifications that become the first secondary
roots. At the end of the primary root, we find the rootcap. It is
a kind of shield that protects the radicle and allows it to forage
through the substrate. Just behind the rootcap is the growth
zone where cells are constantly dividing. Above is the cellular
elongation zone, where the cells elongate and differentiate
under the influence of the auxin. Then comes the maturing
zone, where the cells take on their final shape. The exterior
layer of cells in the maturing zone, the epidermis, bears the root
hair. The root hair are the root’s main absorption agent – the
sap (water and minerals) is first diffused through the root hair’s
cell wall, then travels through the root’s conductive vessels and,
finally, through those of the stem, to finally reach the leaves.
The water and mineral salts that the hair pumps go through the
bark to reach the root core and the conductive tissues. The xylem
allows the xylem sap to go up to the leaves (photosynthesis)
and the phloem allows elaborated sap to go back down to the
roots (storage).
Elaborated sap contains glucose (C6H
12O
6), a monosaccharide∞,
an energy source for plants, which will be transformed into
cellulose or starch during one of the plant’s three mains
metabolisms, the carbohydrate
metabolism, or glycogenesis. The
sugars are stored in the roots in
that form, starch or cellulose.
Starch and cellulose are glucose
polymers or polyosides, complex
sugars following a (C6H
10O
5)n
formula. Cellulose is responsible for
the branches and stem’s rigidity and gives plants their fibrous
structure. Starch and cellulose are the plant’s energy reserves.
The plant uses these carbohydrates in different ways:
• as an immediate source of energy (because of respiration) to
function, grow, reproduce, absorb nutritive elements, etc.
• to store energy reserves: for example, before winter, the plant
stores sugars as starch. These reserves allow it to survive
winter and to start growing again early in the spring.
• to form plant tissue: sugars can be transformed (proteins,
lipids or complex sugars) into leaves, wood, flowers, fruit,
roots, etc.
The bigger the root mass, the most water and nutrients it
can grab, and the most energy reserves it can set aside. More
energy means a more abundant yield, which brings us back to
the beginning: more roots, more fruits!
∞ Simple sugars always contain C, O and H. To be more precise, they always
contain the same number of C and O and twice as much H, so a simple
sugar always follows the general formula (CnH
2nO
n)x times.
More roots, More Fruits By Red from Hydro-Sciences
Photos: D.R
.
5�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
RECIPE
Red cabbage is
the tenderest
and the softest
of all cabbages
and is too often
reserved for raw salads. A member of the headed cabbage
family, red cabbage is not only different by its pigmentation
but also because it is the headed cabbage with the firmest
head. Beware: if the red cabbage is too dark, if its color
resembles that of purple ink, it is no longer good to eat.
In any case, to avoid bloating, we recommend combining
red cabbage to carminative herbs (cumin, caraway) or to
condiments like fennel seeds. Here then is a traditional
German recipe that is gustatory, digestible, amusing and
very nutritious.
You will need:• 1 large red cabbage (approximately 600 gr)
• 30 ml brown sugar
• 250 ml shortening (or cooking oil)
• 250 ml beef fat (or duck fat)
• 1 big onion, chopped
• 2 or 3 untreated tart apples
• 30 ml cider vinegar
• 1 large dash of crushed caraway seeds
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 cloves
• 1 thyme cluster (or wild thyme)
• salt
• pepper
• nutmeg (optional)
• beef broth (or cider)
In a cast iron terrine that can be used on a stovetop, melt
the brown sugar in the shortening (or cooking oil) and
the fat. When the sugar has melted in the fat, brown the
coarsely chopped onion. While the onion slowly becomes
golden, carefully chop the red cabbage to obtain thin slices,
as you would for cole slaw. When the onion is done, add
the chopped red cabbage and the tart apples, coarsely
chopped (they will taste better with the skin on, which is
why I suggest trying to get untreated apples).
Stir every once in a while for the ingredients to mix well.
Add the cider vinegar, the dash of crushed caraway seeds,
the bay leaf, the thyme or wild thyme, and the two cloves.
Salt and pepper to taste and add, if you so wish, the nutmeg
(but not too much!).
Cover and allow to simmer, stirring from time to time. Wet
with beef broth or cider when the cooking liquid evaporates.
The dish will be cooked when the red cabbage slices become
almost neon-coloured and almost translucent.
This dish is delicious as a side-dish to white pudding (it is
the traditional German Christmas meal), but also with white
sausage or white meat. Serve it with a nutmeg-perfumed
tart apple sauce.
Photos: Cover of the book “Cuisiner comme un chef à Paris”
(Parigramme), Kahuna Burger, & La Côte de Vincent.
CookingGary’s Grand-Mother’s Sourish Red Cabbage Recipe
(Transmitted through oral tradition)
THE HYDROPONIC WORLD OF NORTH AMERICA
United States10051 North 2nd St.
Laurel, Maryland 20723
301-490-9236866-MD-HYDRO
WWW.mdhydro.com
5561 South Orange Blossom Trail
Orlando FL. 32802 Toll Free(888) 833-4769
8484 Florin Road # 110 Sacramento, CA. 95828
Ph. (916) 381-2464Fax: (916) 381-2468
Opening soon1918 16th street
Sacramento, Ca 95814
PLANT’ IT EARTH2279 Market StreetSan Francisco, CA 94114(415) 626-5082www.plantitearth.com
PLANT’ IT EARTH1 Dorman AveSan Francisco, CA 94124(415) 970-2465www.plantitearth.com
ROCKY MOUNTAIN LIGHTING AND HYDROPONICS
7100 N Broadway, #3DDenver, CO 80221
Tel: (303) 428-5020Toll free: (800) 886-5020
Fax: (303) 428-1003www.rockymountainlightin-
gandhydroponics.com
B E R K E L E Y INDOOR GARDEN
844 University AveBerkeley, CA 94710
(510) 549-1234Fax: (510) 549-2582
(949) 348-2424www.GotHydro.com27665 Forbes Rd Bld #1Laguna Niguel, CA 92677
Store HoursMon-Fri 11 AM - 6 PMSaturday 10:30 AM - 4 PMSunday Closed
* Best pricesin Orange County* HUGE Selectionof Products* Friendly Knowledg-eable Staff* FREE Instructions and Training!* Complete Starter Systems
GREENMILE HYDROPONIC GARDEN SUPPLY
1035 South Mt Vernon Ave, Suite GColton, CA 92324Tel: (909) 824-9376
Boulder / DenverYear-round Garden Supply
(formerly Growers Choice Hydroponics)
1100 Carver Road, #20Modesto, CA 95350
Tel.: (209) 522-2727Toll free: 1-866-788-0765
23529 Little Mack Ave.St.Clair Shores,MI 48080 USA
Toll Free; 1-866-493-7627www.tcs-hydroponics.com
1866-HYDRO-CS (1866-493-7627)
THE GROWCERY STORE
1501 Lee Hill Road, #17Boulder, CO 80304(303) 449-0771
www.thegrowcerystore.com
132 Kennedy AvenueCampbell, CA. 95008
http://www.precisionhydroponics.com
Tel: (408) 866-8176Fax: (408) 866-8187
We specialize in CUSTOM DESIGN
116 West Orangeburg AvenueModesto, CA 95350
www.cocas-hydroponics.com
Monday to Friday: 10AM-6PM
Saturday: 10AM-4PM
5�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
THE HYDROPONIC WORLD OF NORTH AMERICA
www.AnthonysGarden.com
"Our Business Is Growing"Your Indoor Outdoor
Gardening Specialists
93779 Troy Lane - Coos Bay, OR 97420(541) 266-8822 Fax: (541) 266-9754
BOOK REVIEW
3839 6th AveTacoma, WA
(253) 761-7478www.indoorgarden.com
714 South CentralKent, WA
(253) 373-9060www.indoorgarden.com
23303 Highway 99, Suite AEdmonds, WA
(425) 673-2755www.indoorgarden.com
394 Route 15/P.O. Box 235Underhill, Vt 05489
Tel.: Toll free 1 (800) 564-9376www.hooked-on-ponics.com
Green Thumb Gardening
Grow Monster Plants
THE GROW ROOM8 Bridge StreetNyack, NY 10960Toll Free:
(800) 449-9630Fax: (845) 348-8811www.thegrowroom.com
38 Front StBallston Spa, NY 12020
Toll free (800) 850-GROW(518) 885-2005
Fax (518) 885-2754www.saratogaorganics.com
1555 Hurffville RdSewell, NJ 08080
Tel.: (856) 227-6300Toll free: 1-888-927-6300
Fax: (856) 227-2930www.tastyharvest.com
AHL Garden Supply1051 San Mateo Blvd SE
Albuquerque, New Mexico 87108phone 800-753-4617 / fax 505-
255-7417Read what other customers are
saying about their experience with AHL and ahlgrows.com
at http://ahlgrows.com/kudos.htmle-mail: [email protected]
The new book by the team at Nature Technologies has just been released, and it is exclusively
sold online (www.nature-technologies.com). Co-written by Elaine R. Ingham, Ph.D. and
Carole Ann Rollins, Ph.D. (who wrote about the use of compost tea in hydroponics in The
Indoor Gardener Magazine (see Vol.1 – Issue 4, pages 40 to 45), this book mainly discusses the
biological methods to use to plan the steps that will allow you to move from conventional culture
to sustainable culture. The two Ph.D.-holding writers offer laymen readers clear and precise texts
that tell them the steps to follow to maximise the positive results in any cultivation system, whether
it is conventional, sustainable or organic. In the same way, the principles developed in the book do not
only apply to indoor hydroponics in a controlled environment – the advice and techniques provided extend
to soil-less methods and even to outdoor field crops! This book will show you how using appropriate
biological methods will ensure the protection of your plants against disease, will reinforce nutrient
absorption, will help your plants eliminate toxins, bacteria and residue for a more significant yield. The
authors also explain how to develop the propagation of beneficial organisms, such as bacteria, specific
fungi, protozoa and nematodes. Light is shed on the mystery of beautiful healthy plants – you will know all
about basic biology and the chemistry cycle of the nutritive solution. Available online or at N.T.I., P.O. box
1603, Sonoma, CA 95476, for US$19.95 (+ shipping – $3.95 in the USA or $9.95 for international orders).
– B.B.
Adding Biology In Soil And Hydroponic SystemsBy Elaine R. Ingham, Ph.D. and Carole Ann Rollins, Ph.D.
(Nature Technologies Publisher)
Photo: N.T.I.
THE HYDROPONIC WORLD OF NORTH AMERICA
3132, Isleville St.Halifax, N.S.
902-454-6646B3K 3Y5
4 Ontario locations: Ottawa, Gloucester,
Mississauga, North York
1-800-489-2215www.hydroponix.com
Hydroponics, fertilizers, lightingHome of Optimum Hydroponix®
Canada 107 Falcon Drive (Hwy. 97 S) Williams Lake, BC V2G 5G7
Phone: (250) 398-2899 Fax: (250) 398-2896
Toll Free: 1-877-588-5855
AQUA GRO HYDROPONIC SUPPLIES101-2689 Kyle RdKelowna, BC V1Z 2M9(250) 769-7745Fax: (250) 769-7748
bma404 Maitland Drive #2Belleville, ON K8N 4Z5(613) 967-9888www.bmacanada.com
BOOK REVIEW
GREEN WONDER GARDENING INC.22 Waddell Ave.Dartmouth, NS B3B 1K3Toll Free: (877) 845-6866(902) 466-1255www.greenwonder.com
2192 Route 102 Lincoln, New Brunswick, E3B 8N1
Phone: (506) 458-9208 Facsimile: (506) 459-1377 Email: [email protected]
"TIME IS MONEY, START GROWING TODAY
6 MONTHS NO INTEREST NO PAYMENTS!" "EXCLUSIVELY AT 21ST CENTURY GARDENING!"
Tracadie3717 Rue Principale506-395-6055
Edmundston 11 Crabtree 506-737-9982.
Dieppe 663 Malenfant Blvd. 506-388-9982
P.E.I.18790 Highway 1Desable, P.E.I.902-658-3182
St-John20 Bayside Drive506-657-9982
DEN HAAN'S GARDEN WORLD
exit 18 off 101Annapolis Valley, NS(902) 825-4722www.denhaansgardenworld.comwww.denhaansgreenhouses.com
4-2133 Royal Windsor driveMississauga, Ontario
L5J 1K5(905) 403-GROW (4769)
1-877-263-6287www.secondnaturehydroponics.com
GIVE YOUR PLANTS WHAT THEY NEED
Peterborough Hydroponic Center347 Pido Road Unit 32 Peterborough OntarioPhone/Fax 745-6868Toll Free 1-866-745-6868Manufacturer of PHC Garden Productswww.hydroponics.com [email protected]
For sales and advertising, contact:
For any information, comment or request, contact [email protected].
For sales and advertising, contact [email protected].
If you want to send us pictures and articles, please contact us at:
[email protected] with “submission” in the subject line and
we will get in touch with you.
COME AND GROW WITH US!
Subscribe
& WIN!!!
Photos: Hesi.nl and S.C.
5�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
PLANT HEALTH
Thanks to HydroTek, who owns the American continent
distribution rights, the Dutch products Hesi, already well-
known in Europe, have recently landed in North America.
An Original Nutrient LineHesi-brand plant nutrients have been designed for three
different types of culture: in soil, in hydroponics and on
coco fibre. With each product, Hesi gives the customer a
calendar corresponding to the duration of growth and
flowering cycles in each of the three substrates, as well as a
schedule of the required use of each nutrient.
The originality of the new Hesi, Hesi-Hydro and Hesi-Coco
nutrients is that the company has chosen to market a unique,
pre-mixed product instead of splitting the nutrients in A +
B parts, as is the norm. This type of nutrient, as a unique
mixture, brings about many advantages for the gardener.
The product is easy to use, and also very stable. This stability
is required to preserve all of the product’s qualities, from
its packing to its distribution to the roots of the user’s
plants. The advantages are both financial and ecological:
less on-site handling, less time wasted dosing, fewer empty
containers to recycle, less storage space needed, etc.
S.C.’s Recipe With Hesi Products (Reproduced From His Blog)“After spending a month gathering information on Internet
forums and grow guides, I set up my small indoor garden
and placed by newborn plants within. Here are the steps I
followed for my first harvest, in hydroponics; I am using only
Hesi products, except for Bio-Nova’s BN-Zym biocatalyst.
Supplies: • Orion Hydroponic Mini-Centre and lighting support;
• Sylvania Metal Halide 400W bulb;
• Aquarium air stone placed in the reservoir next to the
pump;
• A hygrometer thermometer;
• Mylar-covered walls;
• 52m3/minute circulating fan;
• 140m3/minute air extractor placed at the top of the closet
for now but that will soon be moved to the bottom
of the door as an injector so that I can install an RVK
365 m3/minute air extractor instead.
Products and nutrients:I use the full line of Hesi products:• Hesi Root Complex;
• Hesi hydro growth;
• Hesi Super Vit;
• Hesi pH down;
• and Bio Nova’s BN-Zym biocatalyst.
Other characteristics:• Hydro system: drip irrigation
• Substrate: rock wool
• Seeds/types of plants to germinate: to be determined.
At first I put the seeds in germination pucks for 10 days
and on the eleventh day (D+11 from the beginning of
germination), I inserted the plantlets into rock wool cubes
that I had previously decompressed for 12 hours with an
adjusted-pH solution into which I added BN-Zym.
HESI Products: A Formula Adapted To Growth And Flowering By V.G. and S.C.
Phot
os: H
esi.n
l and
S.C
.
For my first reservoir solution, I prepared a 10-litre solution
with:
• 5mL/L of water of Hesi Root Complex;
• 1 drop/5L of Hesi Super Vit;
• 1,5mL/L of water of Hesi Hydro Growth.
This gave me a 0.4 EC. The pH seems to have stabilized
around 6, but I test it often and I correct it as required with
Hesi’s pH Down. During the day, the temperature is at 25°C.
I don’t yet know about night-time, because I have only just
purchased my thermo/hygrometer. As for humidity, since
I started the meter it has varied between 40 and 45%.”
(Source: S.C.’s blog – www.forum.com/sujet-36064-2).
A Few Details on Hesi-Brand’s Newest Products• Hesi Super Vit is a product made up of 25 vitamins and of
trace minerals, which create a concentrated stimulant for an
improved growth and flowering. This product accelerates
plant metabolism while activating the hormones responsible
for growth and flowering. It also reinforces the formation of
heavy, luxurious, coloured and perfumed flowers. Hesi Super
Vit can be used in any of the three growing environments
for which Hesi products have been designed.
• Clonfix is a rooting powder designed to perfectly adhere
to the stem, hence favouring the formation of new roots
on the cutting. This rooting stimulant is recommended
for the propagation by cuttings in substrate destined for
hydroponics, such as rock wool or coco cubes. Integrated
into Clonfix is a complex mix of vitamins, minerals,
trace minerals and an anti-microbial agent to ensure
the protection of your new plants.
Hor
ticul
tura
l Nov
eltie
s Deluxe Lighting with eLux BallastsNew eLux 600-Watt Electronic Ballasts are the latest in
horticultural lighting technology. Internal microprocessors
have replaced the mechanical components found in
common HID ballasts to give eLux ballasts increased long-
term efficiency and lumen maintenance. Both of the 120-
and 240-volt eLux models are factory tested and guaranteed
by a two-year warranty and their competitive pricing makes
them as affordable as they are dependable. Wall-mountable
eLux ballasts measure 38 x 15 x 14.6 cm, weigh less than
three kilos each, include a detachable 2.5 metre power
cord and are compatible with most HID
cordsets, including the Sunleaves
cordset. Stop by your
local year ‘round garden
center to find out more.
K.B.
Long Life Net CupsMade of reinforced black plastic, Long Life Net Cups withstand
multiple uses and support most types of growing media.
Available in 7.6 and 14 cm sizes, these durable net cups are
compatible with several hydroponics systems and are also
great for gardeners making their own
one-of-a-kind set up. Long Life Net Cups
are hitting shelves nationwide
– stock up with a visit to your
favourite hydroponics supplier.
K.B.
Natural NutrientsSoil and hydroponics gardeners can nourish plants, increase
overall yields, and sweeten the flavour of their favourite
fruits and vegetables naturally with the complete new line
of Hydro-Fusion nutrients. Sweet & Heavy is the three-part
program with Prime (0-0-1), Grow (3-1-4) and Bloom (2-
6-4) while Sugar Peak Vegetative (3-1-5) and Flowering (2-
4-5) constitute the convenient two-part formulation. Each
Hydro-Fusion component supplies easily-assimilated macro-
and micro-nutrients
derived from molasses
and marine-bird and
bat guanos. Visit your
local year ‘round garden
center to find out more.
K.B.
The Fluorescent FrontierCool-operating Sunleaves Pioneer fluorescent fixtures are
particularly suited for supplementing high intensity light
during hot summer months. Available in four-, six- and eight-
tube configurations, Pioneer fixtures boast distinctive wide-
dispersion reflectors to cover a generous growing area and
include either Sunleaves VitaLUME T5 grow or bloom tube
types. Depending on tube quantity, the output of Pioneer
Grow fixtures range between 16,800 and 33,600 lumens,
while Pioneer Blooms range between 17,600 and 35,200
lumens. Great for beginners and experts alike, Pioneer
fixtures are user-friendly and guaranteed by a five-year
warranty. Find additional information on Sunleaves Pioneer
fixtures and replacement
VitaLUME tubes online at
www.sunleaves.com.
K.B.
Sunleaves Aurora ReflectorsSimplifying indoor garden expansion, Sunleaves Aurora and
Aurora 6 Reflectors have been designed to work together to
achieve optimal coverage and effectively control dark spots
when interconnected. Measuring 45 x 33.5 x 28 cm, each
Aurora features retainer tabs to secure an optional safety
lens as well as a standard socket receptacle for compatibility
with most remote ballasts. Every Aurora 6 also comes
flanged and includes the tempered glass lens, making them
perfect candidates for active ventilation, especially in gardens
receiving carbon dioxide supplementation.
Point your browser to www.sunleaves.
com to see the complete line of
Sunleaves garden products and
find out where to buy in your area.
K.B
Grotek® Seedling Heat Mat and Heat Mat ThermostatThe best temperature at the root
zone is between 27–20ºC (80–
68ºF). The heat mat will warm
the growing medium
up. And to keep the
heat mat temperature accurate, use the heat
mat thermostat. It works like a min/max
thermometer that ensures heat accuracy
while you are away. It will even let you know
temperatures in your grow room when you’re
out of town!
W.S.
�0THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
SHOPPINGPhotos: W
orm’s W
ay & B &
B Hydoponic G
ardens
Phot
os: A
tam
i, A
.R.I.
& G
reen
Air
�1VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER
SHOPPING
The ARI Reactor MX120 Carbon Filter The Reactor MX120 is the ideal carbon filter and scrubber for small
areas. Its main advantage is the ease with which you can replace
the carbon: simply remove the two thumb-screws to release the
fan. Once the fan is removed, pour out the old used carbon and
replace with a new bag of ARI carbon. Then, pop the fan back into
place, reinstall the thumb-screws and the filter is ready for use.
The Reactor MX120 now features an engineered MERV-8 prefilter
with a tackified antimicrobial biocide tested under ASHRAE 52.25 -
with an average efficiency of 49%. Multiple units can be deployed
in an environment, although the unit is also perfect for small
closets and similar enclosures. The filter comes complete with an
integrated hanging hook and a 1.8-meter power cord.
The Reactor MX120 was always made of wood, but now it is
available in metal too. It is just as easy to refill, and is very similar
to its wood counterpart. There are a few differences: there are no
pre-filters on the metal version, and it has been powder-coated to
an attractive matte black finish. The metal version has no hanging
hook, and has two hasps instead of the handy thumb-screws.
Specifications
Carbon mass 365 g
Dimensions 12 x 12 cm
Carbon bed width 65 mm
Internal carbon surface 419750 m2
Carbon type Coconut shell virgin activated carbon flake
Ducting None - scrub application
Recommended air flow 105 CFM integrated fan
Weight 2.27 kg
Construction Metal / wood / cast aluminum
Sheet metal 24 g galvanized
Special treatments Inside/outside with preservative / waterproof coating
H.J.
Presenting Green Air Products’ 24-DT-1 24-Hour Dual Timer and 24-CT-1 24-Hour Timer with Cooling ThermostatThe 24-DT-1 features two independent 24-hour clock timers in one
housing. Each synchronous motor driven time switch has 96 non-
detachable 15 minute on\off trippers, a separate power cord and a
duplex outlet. Function indicator lights display outlet power mode.
Use for lighting, pumps, solenoids, relays, fans, etc. Each duplex
outlet offers 10 amp switching capacity at 120 VAC.
For the basics in garden room control, the
24-CT-1 combines a timed duplex
outlet with a thermostatically
controlled duplex outlet. Ideal
for operating lighting, CO2
equipment, watering systems,
fans, etc., the 24-CT-1 provides
a simple economical control
solution for small greenhouses
and indoor gardens. The internal
thermostat offers a 7 degree comfort zone and
the outlets operate independently – neither
defeating the other. Operates on 115 VAC with
12 amp switching.
Constructed with the same top quality components
and corrosion resistant black anodized chassis, like all Green Air
Products controllers, the 24-DT-1 and 24-CT-1 are built to last and
perform for years to come.
For more information on these or other Green Air Products
equipment, call (800) 669-2113 or visit www.greenair.com.
T.I.G.
Atami’s Root Aid Atami America is pleased to announce that its highly anticipated rooting gel has joined the B’Cuzz propagation product family.
B’Cuzz Root-Aid gel has been recently approved by the CFIA. This formulation has been designed specifically for the
retail hydroponics market. B’Cuzz Root Aid Gel combines both indole-3-butyric acid (IBA), naphthalene acetic
acid (NAA) and several proprietary inert compounds which make this gel the most advanced and effective
rooting product to be introduced to the retail hydroponics market. The combination of NAA and IBA will
ensure your cuttings root rapidly and, most importantly, a larger number of roots will be the ultimate result.
IBA as a stand alone rooting hormone will degrade over time and is light sensitive. Hormone levels will thus vary according to when the
product was manufactured and how long it has been stored at a retail outlet. The addition of NAA ensures stability so no matter when
gardeners purchase B’Cuzz Root-Aid Gel, they can be assured they will get the consistent hormone levels required to achieve maximum
performance. B’Cuzz Root Aid Gel is available in 2 oz, 4 oz and 8 oz. www.atami.com. D.M.
�2THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
SHOPPING
Herb Science – Acme Series from 147 488 Canada Inc.An independent manufacturer who plays with the big boys!
Quality and price-wise, the products will surprise you and
you will find them a place with the big brand
products. The three-step Acme Series fertilizer
– a mixture of three parts, easy to use, enriched
with fulvic acid, pH-adjusted – is declined as
follows: Acme Micro, Acme Grow and Acme
Bloom.
Combined to Herb Science’s Miracle Thrive B-
1– a high-quality formula containing auxins,
cytokinins and other necessary hormones –
these three parts strengthen the plant’s immune
system to increase its resistance to stress, pests
and disease. They also stimulate and accelerate
the growth and flowering development. Add
Mag-I-Cal, also from the Acme Series, and
you can use it anywhere to obtain a nutritive
supplement that contains magnesium,
iron and calcium, prevent burns caused by
overfertilization, provide basic elements for
an improved chlorophyll and a strong stem, as
well as a foliar spray that is very efficient once
added to the nutrient mix.
I tested this product line with the Organa-Add
products (see below). The results I got were
breath-taking: 45 centimetres of growth in
two weeks with expanded clay pellets and
using the recipes on the containers. It is also
very satisfying in soil – child’s play, really.
D. Lesage
Higrocorp’s Organa-Add 2-0-0 and 0-2-0 Combiner Organa-Add replaces powder products: it is a liquid
product, environmentally friendly, that leaves no residue on
plants. It is even easier to measure
in this liquid form. Among its many
advantages, it maximizes flowering
and the production of large fruit,
increases the nutrient absorption
rate, increases the photosynthesis
process and favours an improved
growth of crops, all the while increasing the quantities of
essential oils produced.
Used in combination with a hydroponic, aeroponic or in soil
fertilization program, the product will not clog emitters,
pipes or pumps. As a foliar spray, it is efficient on cuttings
and through all the steps of growth. Organa-Add is made up
of a combination of hydrolized proteins and organic vitamins
and chelates – it is a heterocyclic mixture, meaning that it
favours the formation of bioactive molecules. The results
are surprising, especially when tested with Herb Science’s
three step program.
D. Lesage
Seramis® Natural Clay Pellets Seramis® Natural Clay pellets are made from first rate
natural clays. They are then baked
following our orignal patented process
and transformed into porous granules,
capable of retaining over 100% their
weight in water and of giving it back to
the plant according to its needs.
T.I.G.
Dr Doom FumigatorsTotal Release Fumigators, the only Pyrethrum-
based fumigator available in Canada. They are
made with 0.40 pyrethrin and 2.0% PBO. No
residue. Pyrethrum breaks down within hours
for quick re-entry time. A very affordable
alternative to an exterminator. High pressure
fumigator. One spraying kills exposed stages
of mosquitoes, ticks, fleas, cockroaches, ants,
spiders, and flies. 150 grams.
G.
Brio Watering Can A classic! This 1.5 litre watering can is made of hot dip
galvanized metal. It has a handle, a plastic rose
head and a galvanized watering mesh.
Offered models are round or
oval, with a galvanized finish
– either natural or tinted
green and varnished.
T.I.G.
Oxo Pot Gardening Tools These tools, stored in a big plastic basket,
have a nonslip handle. In the basket,
you will find, among
others, pruning shears
with a loop for your
finger, a graduated
trowel, etc. Order
on www.oxo.com.
T.I.G.
Photos: Herb Science, D
r. Doom
, Oxo &
D.R
.
Photos: House and G
arden Van De Zw
aan
��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1
SHOPPING
1-component soil nutrient Over the last few years, this top seller has generated a high degree of customer satisfaction. Because of its unique composition and easy to use formula, many customers think this nutrient is by far the best there is.
house and Garden aqua flakes A&B is a complete base nutrient designed for recirculating hydroponic systems. Because of its smart nutrient composition, the solution remains fresh and pure. This allows for optimal nutrient uptake, feeding after feeding.
multi enzyme
Multi Enzyme is an extremely useful growth stimulator. It accelerates and simplifies the growth process and strengthens the plant’s immunity. The enzymes convert the nutrient into ready-to-use bits, making them easy to assimilate.
shootinG powder
This sparkling Bud Expander is the absolute best in the field of flower-ing stimulators. It gives visible results, can be combined with all basic nutrients, is packed in handy sachets, is simple to use and has been extensively tested.
a&B coco nutrient Coco requires an extremely precise composition of the various minerals, something you can safely leave to House & Garden. As soon as it was released, this excellently balanced nutrient gathered a following of commercial gardeners, making it an important player on the coco market.
roots excelurator
This powerful root stimulator ensures the explosive growth of the roots and rids the plant of brown roots, root disease, and mould.
Bud xlBud XL has the unique ability to extract sugars from the leaf of the plant and to transfer them to the fruit. The fruit is thus made sweeter and its taste is improved. Bud XL also increases the size and robustness of the flowers, resulting in an increased fruit production and a greater turnover.
topBooster
Top Booster is an excellent flowering stimulator that acts on the basis of potassium, phosphorus and Eddha-Fe (iron). These elements are crucial during flowering: potassium at the beginning of the flowering stage and phosphorus for the proper development of fructification. The Eddha-Fe additive ensures a better coloring of the leaves.
maGic Green
Magic Green is a boost, admin-istered trough foliar feeding, for mother plants, rooted and unrooted slips and growing plants. It is absorbed directly by the leaves and brings back the plant’s dark green color and vitality. Magic Green is a gentle plant agent that works within two days.
a&B hydro nutrients (for drain to waste systems)The smart composition of the various elements provides commercial gardeners with the ideal means of ensuring an optimal nutrition to the plants both in the growth and flowering stages.
Canadian Sales: Frank Pohl, 604-716-2150US wholesaler: Humboldt Whole-sale, 707-840-9932www.house-garden.ca
F.P. & H.J.
a&B soil nutrient
Never before have nutrients and soil been so well attuned. The unique composition of the nutrient ensures that soil and nutrients are used to their full advantage, which gives the plant optimal strength during the growth and flowering periods.
House A nd Ga rden Va n De Zwaa n Ma kes Its Nor t h A mer ica n DebutYou too ca n now d iscover t he nut r ient s a nd st i mu la nt s made i n t he Net herla nds .
�5VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 1 THE INDOOR GARDENER
Q & A
Q Hi!
I have a decision to make this year. My supplier has recommended Heavy
Harvest Spring, Summer, Fall & Sensi Grow and Sensi Bloom. Which one
do you recommend and which one is the best? Also, I am looking for
a product which will increase the root mass (Power Thrive or 10-52-10
but more potent)? I only use Pro-Mix, without adding anything... I know
I should, but what? I’m looking for quantity.
Thanks and happy growing to all!
Éric.
A Hi Éric,
It sounds like your supplier is pushing Advanced Nutrients and doesn’t know
what he is selling. The Heavy Harvest line is a slow release that you use
outside once every 4 weeks. Sensi Grow and Sensi Bloom are to be used as
a constant feed, in every watering.
If you are growing in your backyard or somewhere close, where you can
have a 100L reservoir and see your plants every day or two, I say go with
the Sensi Grow and Bloom 2+ program! I know it’s a bit expensive but
take a look at the Sensi Pro kits; it’s the easiest way to use all of Advanced
Nutrients technology.
When you are growing somewhere that you can only get to once a week or
less, slow release is the only way to go!
On every package of Advanced Nutrients there is a 1-800 number. You
should give them a call. The tech guy is really good!
2) A very long time ago I came across an article on the world’s largest living
organism. It turned out to be a fungus living on the roots of oak trees. This
particular oak grove was 4 kilometres in diameter. These trees were bigger,
healthier and grew much faster than trees in other oak groves in the area. It
was because the microorganism had colonized the entire root mass of the
grove. The symbiotic relationship between the fungus and the oak roots
is that the fungus can metabolize more of the available nutrients than the
roots can, delivering the nutrients in a form that is available to the plant.
These are nutrients that were never available to the plant before the fungus
transformed them.
I thought, “where can I buy some”? But it was only about
ten years ago that I found my first beneficial fungus
product. It was “Myke” from Premier Tech. I use it on
every plant: all of my house plants, all of my crop plants,
anything I ever transplant. I won’t plant without it.
Advanced Nutrients has two very powerful beneficial
fungus and bacteria products, “Piranha” and “Tarantula”,
along with “Voodoo Juice”.
The first time you use any or all of these products you should see a 50-200%
increase in root mass.
3) There are so many different Pro-Mix products
that if you choose the right product you will not
need to add anything. There is a specific Pro-Mix
for every application that you can imagine. For growing indoors use Pro-Mix
VP (Very Porous). For growing outdoors or in dry areas, use Pro-Mix H2O or
the hanging basket mix, which has water retention crystals. There is even a
brand new formula, Pro-Mix SOG. But your supplier may be limited to the
general purpose Pro-Mix BX.
Do, do, do!
Fred
P.S.: Mycorrhizal fungi have occurred naturally in the soil for 400 million
years. They form a close symbiotic relationship with plant roots. They are
called mycorrhizae (from the Greek “mukés”, meaning fungus, and “rhiza,”
meaning roots). However, in most soils that have been disturbed by residential
construction or intensive cropping practices with applications of fertilizers
containing pesticides and other chemical products, the mycorrhizae content
has considerably diminished, and has become insufficient to significantly
enhance plant growth. When mycorrhizal fungi colonize the plant’s root
system, they create a network that increases the plant’s capacity to absorb
more water and nutrients such as phosphorus, copper and zinc. This process
in turn enhances growth and favors rapid development of roots and plants.
A Hi Éric,
I don’t know if you are growing indoors or out, in soil or hydro, but here’s
what I know about the products.
The Spring, Summer & Fall series is commonly used in soil outdoors and the
Sensi Grow & Bloom are usually used with hydroponic systems. I haven’t
worked with either of those products; I use General Hydroponics’ Flora Nova
Grow and Bloom series when working with soil and Herb Science Acme
Series in hydro and am quite satisfied with the results. The one thing I add
to both is Advanced Nutrients’ Tarantula for a thick healthy root mass - it’s
a bit expensive but totally worth it. I noticed mild changes within three days
of applying it and mind-blowing results by the end of the second week of
vegetation. The thing to remember with Tarantula is that it is live bacteria
and peroxide (H2O
2) will kill the bacteria, so if you use peroxide in your water
you’ll have to stop.
Kick Start by GroTek also works very well on seedlings
and cuttings to develop great roots. Healthy roots
lead to a healthy plant, and thus a healthy yield.
Pro-Mix has a base of mild nutrients in it and will
sustain plants for a while on its own, but if you are
looking for a good yield you should add some food
every second or third watering.
Take care and be kind to your plants.
Herb Gardner
ONE QU ESTION… T WO A NSW ERS!We return to the question and answer formula which was met with enthusiasm in our first issue. Keep sending us your questions at [email protected]. Our experts are awaiting them impatiently!
Phot
os: D
.R.,
Adv
ance
d N
utri
ents
& G
roTe
k
Question:
Why is Dutch loose fill coir considered better than domestic soldcoir, such as “Just Coir®” by Sun Gro Horticulture?
Choose One Answer:
1. Costs more.2. More expensive.3. Cool Dutch name – English translation = soakingour naïve customers who don’t know any better.4. Extra ocean freight from Sri Lanka to Hollandand then to North America. 5. ALL OF THE ABOVE.
Answer key: Answer is 5.
Sun Gro Horticulture’s “Just Coir” is the top selling bag of loose fillcoir in the Western U.S. Why? Because Sun Gro Horticulture’s highquality standards require that every incoming load of coir is tested,flushed for excess salts and then re-tested to ensure thatEC’s are low and then packaged in our 2.0 cu. ft bag allthe while complying with our OMRI listed standards.
You want more? Sure, since you are not paying for allthat freight and the fancy Dutch name, “Just Coir” is moreaffordable and it is OMRI listed. Our goal is to provideour customers with a great product at a fair price.
And if you want more, a great new product is our BlackGold Cocoblend® which is an OMRI listed blend of coirfiber, Canadian Sphagnum peat moss, earthworm cast-ings and pumice. It is the fastest growing soil mediabeing sold within the Emerald Triangle in California. It isa fantastic blend that provides optimum water retentionplus high aeration capacity with nature’s fertilizer –earthworm castings.
Sun Gro Horticulture providing quality growing mediaunder the Sunshine® and Black Gold® brands since1929.
Is proud to present its First Growing Media Lesson
Available exclusively at an independent retailer near you.Call Sun Gro Horticulture CRC 1-877-842-3256 for more information.
www.sungro.com
Distributed in the United States by SunGro Horticulture Distribution, Inc 15831NE 8th Street, Suite 100 Bellevue, WA98008 USADistributed in Canada by Sun GroHorticulture Canada Ltd. 52130 RR65,PO Box 189, Seba Beach, AB T0B 2B0Canada© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd.Sunshine and Sun Gro are registeredtrademarks of Sun Gro HorticultureCanada Ltd. All Rights Reserved. © 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd.Sunshine and Sun Gro are registeredtrademarks of Sun Gro HorticultureCanada Ltd. Black Gold is a registeredtrademark of Odin Enterprises II LLC. AllRights Reserved.
Distributed in the United States by Sun Gro Horticulture Distribution, Inc 15831 NE 8th Street, Suite 100 Bellevue, WA 98008 USADistributed in Canada by Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. 52130 RR65, PO Box 189, Seba Beach, AB T0B 2B0 Canada
© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. All Rights Reserved. © 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Black Gold is a registered
trademark of Odin Enterprises II LLC. All Rights Reserved.
While 'better' is always asubjective term, BlackGold® and Sunshine®
brands have been provid-ing quality growing mediato the Professional Growerand Garden Enthusiastsince 1929. Good honestsoil, providing good honestresults has always beenour way of doing business.No tall tales, no bogusboasts
"Greatest Tall Tales Ever Told"
I am not a crook - Richard Nixon
I did not have sexualrelations with thatwoman, Ms. Lewinsky- Bill Clinton
Read my lips,No new taxes- George Bush
Our soil is better than
Black Gold - Frightened competitor
Black Gold® and Sunshine® growing media.Because the only thing taller than their tales are plants grown in our soil.
?
1-800-842-3256www.sungro.com
Question:
Why is Dutch loose fill coir considered better than domestic soldcoir, such as “Just Coir®” by Sun Gro Horticulture?
Choose One Answer:
1. Costs more.2. More expensive.3. Cool Dutch name – English translation = soakingour naïve customers who don’t know any better.4. Extra ocean freight from Sri Lanka to Hollandand then to North America. 5. ALL OF THE ABOVE.
Answer key: Answer is 5.
Sun Gro Horticulture’s “Just Coir” is the top selling bag of loose fillcoir in the Western U.S. Why? Because Sun Gro Horticulture’s highquality standards require that every incoming load of coir is tested,flushed for excess salts and then re-tested to ensure thatEC’s are low and then packaged in our 2.0 cu. ft bag allthe while complying with our OMRI listed standards.
You want more? Sure, since you are not paying for allthat freight and the fancy Dutch name, “Just Coir” is moreaffordable and it is OMRI listed. Our goal is to provideour customers with a great product at a fair price.
And if you want more, a great new product is our BlackGold Cocoblend® which is an OMRI listed blend of coirfiber, Canadian Sphagnum peat moss, earthworm cast-ings and pumice. It is the fastest growing soil mediabeing sold within the Emerald Triangle in California. It isa fantastic blend that provides optimum water retentionplus high aeration capacity with nature’s fertilizer –earthworm castings.
Sun Gro Horticulture providing quality growing mediaunder the Sunshine® and Black Gold® brands since1929.
Is proud to present its First Growing Media Lesson
Available exclusively at an independent retailer near you.Call Sun Gro Horticulture CRC 1-877-842-3256 for more information.
www.sungro.com
Distributed in the United States by SunGro Horticulture Distribution, Inc 15831NE 8th Street, Suite 100 Bellevue, WA98008 USADistributed in Canada by Sun GroHorticulture Canada Ltd. 52130 RR65,PO Box 189, Seba Beach, AB T0B 2B0Canada© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd.Sunshine and Sun Gro are registeredtrademarks of Sun Gro HorticultureCanada Ltd. All Rights Reserved. © 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd.Sunshine and Sun Gro are registeredtrademarks of Sun Gro HorticultureCanada Ltd. Black Gold is a registeredtrademark of Odin Enterprises II LLC. AllRights Reserved.
Distributed in the United States by Sun Gro Horticulture Distribution, Inc 15831 NE 8th Street, Suite 100 Bellevue, WA 98008 USADistributed in Canada by Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. 52130 RR65, PO Box 189, Seba Beach, AB T0B 2B0 Canada
© 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. All Rights Reserved. © 2006 Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Sunshine and Sun Gro are registered trademarks of Sun Gro Horticulture Canada Ltd. Black Gold is a registered
trademark of Odin Enterprises II LLC. All Rights Reserved.
While 'better' is always asubjective term, BlackGold® and Sunshine®
brands have been provid-ing quality growing mediato the Professional Growerand Garden Enthusiastsince 1929. Good honestsoil, providing good honestresults has always beenour way of doing business.No tall tales, no bogusboasts
"Greatest Tall Tales Ever Told"
I am not a crook - Richard Nixon
I did not have sexualrelations with thatwoman, Ms. Lewinsky- Bill Clinton
Read my lips,No new taxes- George Bush
Our soil is better than
Black Gold - Frightened competitor
Black Gold® and Sunshine® growing media.Because the only thing taller than their tales are plants grown in our soil.
?
1-800-842-3256www.sungro.com