The Gardener Magazine September

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We know South Africans love their gardens! This magazine inspires the home enthusiast with practical ideas for maintaining and enhancing their gardens, patios and backyards. New plants and products are mentioned first in The Gardener and there is also a special focus on indigenous gardening in South Africa.

Transcript of The Gardener Magazine September

Page 1: The Gardener Magazine September
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Publisher Lonehill Trading (Pty) LtdEditor Tanya VisserManaging Director Kevin BeaumontManaging Editor (Editorial enquiries)Wendy Moulton 031 764 0593 [email protected] Copy EditorDesiree Collett van RooyenArt DirectorRuth BrophyWeb and Graphic DesignTanya CampherPhotography Geoff Redman,David van den Bergh

AdvertisingJonathan Gouws 031 764 0593 [email protected]

Advertising and Classifieds Mokete Maepa 031 764 0593 [email protected]

Groundcover Advertising/ Advertising Production Controller Rusty Croft 031 764 0593 [email protected]

Office Administrator (Enquiries) Kim van Rooyen 031 764 0593 [email protected]

DIY ExpertGarth Demmer

SubscriptionsRNA 011 473 8700 [email protected]

Editorial contributors Alice Spenser-Higgs, Anna Celliers, Chris Beardshaw, Debbie Smit, Di-Di Hoffman, Doug Newman, Gerald Schofield, Glynne Anderson, Dr Hugh Glen, Ilona Thorndike, Jenny Dean, Kevin Beaumont, Louis van Aswegen, Ludwig Taschner, Margaret Roberts, Plantae, Ruth Brophy, Tanya Visser, Wendy Moulton.

Editorial Head Office 3 Haygarth Road, Kloof PO Box 29244, Maytime 3624 Telephone (031) 764 0593 Telefax (031) 764 1148 e-mail: [email protected]

Copyright subsists in all work published in this magazine. Any reproduction or adaptation, in whole or part, without written permission is strictly prohibited. The Gardener will not be held responsible for any omissions or errors. Unsolicited material will not be accepted. The Gardener is available at leading nurseries and selected retail outlets nationally.

September 201032 The sex life of orchids

They are pretty for a purpose

35 A Sparkling Little JewelA big garden in a small space

38 Colour! Chris Beardshaw explains

42 Whispers of the sea A beautiful informal garden

and its budget

50 Behind the Scenes at a Flower Auction

What happens in Aalsmeer

64 Broad leaf clivia There’s not a bloom in sight

1 Welcome8 Garden Graft Ideas, tips and tasks for September16 Your Letters18 Moon Gardening Waxing and Waning19 Lunar Gardening Guide22 Plant Profile DELOSPERMA cooperi24 In the garden with Tanya Old-fashioned favourites, new additions, hot ideas and a vuvuzela!46 Plant Combos Lavender and Yarrow48 Diary of a Cape Garden Dreaming of a Cape Garden52 Rose Care How to produce winners54 Fruit File Pineapples56 Indigenous with Jenny Dean Tassel berry treasure trove58 Growing Herbs Anise-flavoured herbs60 Growing Vegetables Ooh, Melons!63 The Spice Collection Mustard66 Petpourri Bones of contention96 Tales from the Green Dragon Doctors’ Food

FEA

TUR

ESR

EGU

LAR

S

CREATEDEFINE YOUR LIVING SPACE71 Table Terrarium Build a table that will always be the centre of attention

75 Hoot, hoot Step-by-step to building a nesting box for an eagle owl

79 Quick DIY Recycled wine bottle torch

80 A chip off the old block Constructing a dry stone wall

MARKETPLACE84 New Products

87 The Gardener DVD Series

89 Groundcover advertisements

91 Classified Directory

COMPETITIONS PROMOTIONS AND EVENTS6 Elands Emerald Collection: Argyranthemum

11 Happenings and Events

14 Overberg Agri Garden of the Year Competition

21 Sunday Tribune Garden & Leisure Show

31 Gardening Tips from Earth2Earth

45 All about New Guinea Impatiens with Nu-leaf

67 Use 3D to Zone Your Garden

82 Subscribe to The Gardener84 Red Rhino Mist Dusters

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We l c ome

ON THE COVERThe fine, filigree foliage of ACER palmatum ‘Dissectum Atropurpureum’ contrasts strikingly with the lush green leaves of ACER palmatum.Both are known by the common name of Japanese maple. These charming little trees enhance the spring garden with their fresh new foliage.

Long-awaited and much anticipated by all us passionate gardeners, SPRING is finally here and I am delighted! It has been a rough winter with record low temperatures being experienced in some parts of our country, but that’s all behind us now and

it’s time to look ahead to the joys that this wonderful time of the year has to offer. Along with being a month full of blooming delights, it is also Heritage Day

on 24 September and what better way to celebrate our nation than to build a fire and prepare a feast? So light that fire, gather your family and friends around and Braai4Heritage, because a braai, in one form or another, is the common heritage that we all share. Put together some delicious sosaties using fresh rosemary stems fromyour garden, and pick some lemon thyme to add zest to the chicken pieces. I can’t wait – my mouth is already watering. To find out more about the concept and the people championing Braai4Heritage – and for some cool braai recipes – visit www.braai4heritage.co.za.

Talking of herbs and delicious food reminds me that there’s another not-to-be-missed event in September: the Gauteng Good Food and Wine Show, and you probably won’t believe me when I tell you who is going to be there, but I’ll spill the beans anyway… James Martin! Of all the famous chefs he is definitely the sweetheart, and he’s coming to town. James is passionate about growing his own vegetables and herbs, and, like most of us, he needed a little help getting started. He called on the skills of Charlie Dimmock and now he is a grow-your-own fanatic. Not only is he a great chef and an enthusiastic gardener, but he also happens to be oh so gorgeous! So make it a date – I certainly am. The Good Food and Wine Show runs from 23 to 26 September, from 10:00 to 21:00, at the Coca-Cola Dome. Many other great chefs are also participating in the show, and there will be loads of events to keep you enthralled. To find out more visit www.gourmetsa.com.

You would have noticed in last month’s issue that the indigenous plant FELICIA bergeriana (Kingfisher daisy) was the featured plant in the Elands Emerald Collection. This month’s plant is the ever-reliable Argyranthemum. The collection was launched last year by Elands Nursery and consists of a range of premium quality potted plants. For every Elands Emerald Collection plant sold in 2010, Elands Nursery is donating R1 to Child Welfare South Africa. I urge you to go to your local garden centre and ask for the Elands Emerald Collection daisies. They will give you years of colour and you will be helping a child – two great things! Well done to Elands Nursery.

Your September diary is probably jam packed by now, but you still have to squeeze in two more dates. First, the Chris Beardshaw lecture (and you have three options: 14 September in Cape Town, 15 September in KZN and 16 September in Johannesburg) and then the best annual horticultural event in South Africa: the Sunday Tribune Garden and Leisure Show in Pietermaritzburg (from 24 to 26 September). If it’s gorgeous gardens by top landscape designers that you are looking for then you simply can’t miss this show. There’s also the fun-filled ‘Ready, Steady, Plant’, where you’ll see a bit of gardening drama amidst loads of laughter, and you are sure to pick up some good gardening tips as well.

I really do look forward to seeing you at one of these events. Till then, take care and happy gardening!

Tanya dressed by:

Visit us on:

w w w. t h e g a r d e n e r . c o . z a

Green Champion

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SEPTEMBER DIARY

GardenGraft

Prime TimeClivias for shadeOne is reassured that winter is finally over and that spring has really arrived when thevivid orange blooms of CLIVIA miniata appear. These evergreen, shade-lovingrhizomatous bulbs with their glossy strap-shaped leaves and huge flower heads livenup the dullest shady corner when planted en masse. They are equally impressive in largecontainers on a shady patio. All you need to do to enjoy the beauty of these rewardingplants is to supply heavily composted, free-draining soil and give them a regularwatering in summer (they prefer to live a little drier in winter). A few scoops of bonemeal and a fresh compost layer over their root areas in late winter will keep thosegrowing in the garden happy. Potted clivia will need a once-monthly feed with liquidfertiliser in spring and summer. Take time out this month to visit a clivia show in yourarea to enjoy the many lovely hybrids of these plants and be sure to buy some of theyellow-flowering C. miniata ‘Citrina’. The clivia article on pages 64 and 65 has a list of theshows taking place in September.

Showers of confettiWe are blessed with other indigenous species that also flower impressively in earlyspring – including the hardy pink-flowering COLEONEMA pulchellum and the white-flowering C. album (confetti bushes). Both of these bushy shrubs produce masses ofstar-shaped petite flowers (and their aromatic needle-like foliage provides interest whenthey are not in flower). A light prune after flowering helps them to produce densegrowth. Confetti bushes can be used as excellent informal hedges, filler shrubs and caneven be clipped into more formal topiary forms. For year-round colour you can alsoplant the compact-growing C. ‘Sunset Gold’ which has lovely golden-yellow foliage andlight pink flowers. The confetti bushes prefer free-draining soil.

Plant nowTen charming perennialsSpring is all about flowers, and these much-loved perennials certainly supply flowerpower:AQUILEGIA x hybrida (columbines) – charming long-stemmed cottage-style flowers ontall stems above lacy green leaves.GAURA lindheimeri (angel wings) – butterfly-like flowers on long stalks, in a range ofcolours from purest white to soft and deep pink.GERANIUM incanum (carpet geranium) – ground-hugging with lacy dull-green foliageand masses of mauve flowers.DIASCIA x hybrid (twin spur) – prolific-flowering indigenous plant available in manyshades, from the softest of pastels to the brightest orange and rust-red.FELICIA ‘Out of the Blue’ – the first Felicia species to be granted Plant Breeders Rights, ithas crisp green leaves that form cushions topped with masses of bright blue daisies.IRIS hybrids (bearded iris) – a wide array of irises bear stunning blooms in a glorious

CLIVIA miniata ‘Citrina’

COLEONEMA album

GERANIUM incanum DIASCIA ‘Coral Belle’ AQUILEGIA ‘Songbird’

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range of colours.LIMONIUM perezii (giant statice) – carry large heads of flat, crinkle paper-like violet blueand white flowers. A very tough plant!PHLOX subulata (Alpine phlox) – pretty ground covering perennial with masses of purple,pink or white flowers.SCABIOSA columbaria ‘Butterfly Blue’ (cornflower) – forms dense mounds of grey-greenfoliage, and produces many lavender-blue pincushion flowers on slender stems.VIOLA odorata ‘The Czar’ (sweet violet) – spreading ground cover with fragrant purple-blue flowers.

Hot tip!The floriferousness of some tall-growing winter-dormant perennials can be increasedby pinching out the main stems in spring when they have re-emerged and are about20 cm high.

Your lawnFeed and water the lawn regularly and fix bare patches with a top-dressing of finecompost.

Bugs, pests and problemsThe citrus psylla causes raised, pock-like swellings on the upper surfaces of young leaves.For each swelling there is a corresponding pit or hollow on the underside of the leaf – thisis where the nymph stage of the psylla will have fed. This problem normally occurs oncitrus and related indigenous trees, such as CUSSONIA spicata (cabbage tree). Predatorywildlife, like ladybirds, wasps, lacewings and birds and spiders, can help to control thepysllid population. Control of ants by the gardener can also help.

Unless the infestation is severe, neither the fruit nor the general health of the affectedtree should suffer. Organic insecticides that contain natural pyrethrins can be used tocombat severe infestations, but they will unfortunately also kill most of the psylla’s naturalenemies (as would any non-organic insecticide).

Must do� Top dress container-grown trees and shrubs by replacing the top 5 cm of soil withfresh compost. Add a handful of water-retaining granules and slow-release fertiliser.� Your houseplants also need a fresh layer of compost or potting soil and a good feedwith liquid fertiliser. Before starting the job, carry them outside and into the shade of atree. First give them a good bath with a soft sprinkler, then top-dress and feed them. Allowthem to dry off before taking them indoors again.� Feed your roses and start a dedicated watering programme.� Start sowing the seed of hardy annuals like sunflowers, portulaca and zinnia directlyinto the soil.

VRIESEA splendens

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Kitchen gardeningGardeners of old swear by the power of different plantcombinations, with some plants making very goodcompanions and being nursemaids to one another, whileothers are bad news when planted together in a bed.Some also claim that you can minimise problems withpests and avoid using insecticides and fungicides in thevegetable garden if you practise the art of companionplanting (and we believe them!).

Good companions:� Cucumber, marrow and squash enjoy the shadeprovided by sweetcorn as it keeps their roots cool. Allenjoy enriched, moist soil.� The cabbage family inter-planted with French beanssignificantly reduces pests.� Basil protects against the many pests that attacktomatoes.� Sweet peas and runner beans grow well together. Thesweet-smelling flowers of the sweet peas attract pollinat-ing insects, needed for the early pollination of the beans.� Plant onions, carrots and leeks together – this combi-nation confuses the pests.� Sow your spinach in rows that are 50 cm apart, andplant other vegetables between them. The spinachseedlings will act as a nurse crop, shading and protectingthe seedlings planted between them. The spinach can beharvested to eat, and the excess hoed down and left onthe soil surface as mulch. If dug in later it becomes greenmanure.� Dill and carrots make good partners, apparentlybecause the aromatic dill acts as a deterrent to carrot fly.� Calendula, garlic, lavender, marigolds, nasturtiums,parsley, thyme and wild garlic are regarded as goodgeneral companions.

SEPTEMBER DIARY

Summer rainfall temperate� Divide and re-plant water lilies and other aquatics into fresh soil.� Remove weeds that compete for moisture in garden beds. Build upthe soil with organic matter like compost, feed with a slow releasefertiliser, water and add a final layer of mulch.� You can start planting dahlia and other summer-flowering bulbsnow.� Divide and re-plant overcrowded perennials.

Summer rainfall subtropical� Plant sweet potatoes and green pepper seedlings, eggplants andparsley. Sow cucumbers.� Prune hibiscus and poinsettia and lay in some cuttings. You can takecuttings of frangipani too.� Winter-flowering shrubs can now be fertilised, and neatened bypruning.� Plant gerberas, and gladioli bulbs.

Winter rainfall� Create a pretty spring border with the following indigenous flower-ing plants: gazanias in mixed colours, ARCTOTIS ‘Flame’ and ‘Rosé’, bluefelicia, SCABIOSA africana, PLECTRANTHUS ‘Mona Lavender’ and therange of very prolific super-sutera hybrids called SUTERA SuteraNova™ –a superior form of an old favourite that is available in ‘Lavender’, ‘BigBlue’ and ‘Big Pink’. Your border will be pretty, wild and very colourful!

Dry continental� Create a little secluded garden with a half circle of BUDDLEJAsalviifolia (sagewood) enclosing a full circle of WESTRINGIA fruticosaneatly pruned into a hedge. Add a few pots of FREYLINIA tropica ‘BlueSplash’ cut into balls and you will have a great combination of plantsthat will look good all year long and be especially impressive in spring.� You can also enjoy hanging baskets. Use PELARGONIUM peltatum inthe brightest of colours, or a mix of petunias and lobularia (alyssum), ordo something different – mix the grey foliage of HELICHRYSUMpetiolare with cool, snow-white petunias.

BUDDLEJA salviifolia

In yourregion

SANBI/Kirstenbosch Chelsea 2010 exhibitPlease note that this exhibit will not be recreated in PortElizabeth, contrary to our note in last month’s diary.

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COLOUR!

Colour is one of the most evocative and most misunderstood of the tools avail-able for garden design. It is important

to get to grips with its various attributes and nuances because, as viewers of the garden, we are instinctively affected by colour. Although philosophies, opinions and approaches to the best use of colour vary widely and our individual appreciation of it can be subjective there are a few simple guidelines that can help a gardener realise the full potential of this fundamental design principle.

How colours relateThe first is to consider the way the colours relate to one another; this is best done by arranging the colours of the rainbow in what is referred to as a colour wheel or pie chart. This allows the colours to be read in a clockwise direction, starting with red at twelve o’clock through to orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet. This immediately reveals colours that have a close relationship with one another and will therefore create har-mony in the garden. For example, red and orange will always ‘feed’ off and benefit one another, as will green and blue, and indigo and violet. So, when you are designing or laying out anything – from a hanging basket to a full blown landscape – if your desired effect is one of tranquillity and harmony then allow colours that are adjacent to one another on the colour wheel to dominate. If, however, you wish to create a scheme of con-trasts, excitement and visual challenges then opt for those colours that occupy opposite positions on the colour wheel, such as yellow with violet and indigo. It is worth remembering though that while such extreme contrasts can produce an ex-citing scheme they can also bring discord when used too extensively.

How colour is perceivedBefore determining your colour palette it is worth considering the mechanism that allows colours to shine out. The sun generates rays of light that appear white but, when viewed through a prism, are seen to be a conglomera-tion of all the colours on the colour wheel. (This

GARDEN DESIGN

By Chris Beardshaw

Page 8: The Gardener Magazine September

effect is most frequently seen in the form of a rainbow in the sky, which is caused by water droplets acting as a prism.) While white light is a combination of all the colours, black displays an absence of any colour. The colour of any object that we see is a result of that object being bombarded by white light and that object then reflecting certain colours. For example: a red flower is not technically red, it is just that the flower absorbs all the colours except red, which is reflected back to our eyes.

This phenomenon has two effects: the first is that the amount of white light will de-termine how vibrantly each individual colour shines out. Thus in areas with high sunlight levels, such as sunny herbaceous borders and prairie meadows, the colours that appear most vibrant are the reds, oranges and yel-lows. It follows that if you have a bright sunny spot in the garden and you are looking for maximum impact then stick to those colours. Secondly, and conversely, the blues, indigos and violets perform best in lower light levels. Therefore, for shady spots, dark corners and under-planting choose from the blue section of the spectrum. White is a combination of all the colours and is effective in both light and shady conditions.

PLAYING WITH SPACEIt won’t have escaped your attention that some colours appear much more dominant than others – again it is the reds, oranges and yellows that seem to grab our attention, while the blues, indigos and violets are somewhat reserved. This is due to the speed at which each individual colour travels towards the eye when it is reflected, with the reds being pro-duced by short wave light and travelling very quickly, while the blues, being long waves, travel slowly. As a designer, understanding this principle allows infinite manipulation of a viewer’s perception of the size of the space he or she is experiencing. If, for instance, you have a long thin garden or space and you wish to disguise its length then plant speci-mens displaying reds, oranges and yellows at the far end of the space – they will immedi-ately race towards you giving the impression that the garden is far shorter than it actually is. Conversely, if you wish to make a space feel larger than it actually is then employ the use of blues, indigos and violets. This may sound like very subtle manipulation but I assure you that it can have a radical effect.

fEELING HoT or CoLd?Of course, colours have huge psychological effects and almost instinctively we will feel warmed when presented with a border that is riotous in reds, oranges and yellows. Scientists are unsure why this happens but there is absolutely no doubt that a gardener standing amongst red flowers will feel warmer than one standing amongst the equivalent-sized

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blue specimens. (One explanation is the associations we make between the warm colours and fire and flame, and the cool colours and ice and water.) Just how warm you feel will depend on the light levels, bearing in mind that hot colours need high light levels in order to perform effectively.

GREEN IS ALSO A COLOURFor an exciting and stimulating experience when walking around your garden, try contrasting areas of hot colours with areas of cool colours. With colours giving rise to psychological effects and with the impor-tance of colour themes being emphasized by many designers you may be wondering why wild landscapes and meadows are not a chaotic riot of contrasts. This is largely due to the fact that nature arms herself aplenty with green, that most valuable of all col-ours, and it acts as a buffer and moderator between its more energetic colleagues. Coupled to this is the fact that that our wild plants tend to produce flowers of a mod-est size and an abundance of foliage and you find that the green has significantly less work to do. So, as a general rule, try to avoid including too many exotic and hybrid blooms that have been specifically bred for their impressive size and intensity of colour, and remember that the more green you use in your garden the more likely it is that your colour combinations will work.

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CONSIDER STEMS, LEAVES, BUDS AND FRUIT While most gardeners consider flowers to be the principle providers of colour an astute designer will also consider the role that stems, leaves, buds and fruits play. All of these can significantly influence your impression of the plant. When formulating a colour strategy for your garden it is also essential to consider the seasonal variation of these parts of the plant and the effect it will have on the overall scheme. For instance, some plants with coloured foliage may look fantastic as part of your scheme but it is worth checking that horrific clashes aren’t going to occur when it comes into flower.

TAKE A CLOSER LOOKIf you are in any doubt as to whether certain colour combinations will work effectively then employ the tactics of Gertrude Jekyll, possibly the finest exponent of colour theory. In her later years her sight began failing requiring her to look very closely at individual blooms and stems. In doing so she observed that a flower may, for example, be white at first glance, however, when viewed close up it will display delicate hints of other colours, such as pinks, oranges and greens. These subtly indicate the other colours that will work effectively with that bloom, creating a garden of intimate and delicate colour combinations.

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TableTerrarium

diy

This table terrarium is a fascinating alternative to a traditional flat-topped table and definitely calls

for a new take on the old saying of ‘have your cake and eat it’ – we think something along the lines of

‘have your plants and watch them while you eat’ might do. Even when a meal is not being served

the table will still be the centre of attention.

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HELPING BUILD AFRICA

HELPING BUILD AFRICA

WHAT YOU NEED FROM

MATERIALSLegs and sides are pine wood, in mm

Legs: 4 @ 765 x 44 x 44

Sides 2 @ 1000 x 220 x 22

Sides 2 @ 985 x 220 x 22

Shutter board base: 1 @ 995 x 980 x 18

Sheet of glass: 1015 x 995 x 6 mm

2 litres a.b.e. Super Laykold

a.b.e membrane – 250 mm x 10 m

1 @ 22 mm plug

1 litre Hammerite hammered black

50 mm paint brush

Genkem quick-setting wood glue

70 full thread cut screws (4 x 30 mm)

TOOLStape measure, combination square, pencil, electric hand planer, jig saw, electric router, cordless drill and speed bit 22 mm, carpenter’s square

Some products may not be available at Builders Trade Depot.

1

2

4

5

1000 mm

170 mm 22 mm

44 mm

25 mm

765 mm

Drain plug98

5 m

m

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Builders Warehouse is the leader in home improvement. You will find everything you might need for home improvement, under one roof, plus each store has a dedicated builder’s counter and quotations department.

Builders Express is the family garden and DIY centre, and caters for all gardening and DIY enthusiasts.

Builders Trade Depot stocks a full range of building materials supplying contractors across a broad spectrum of the building industry.

For more information on the products supplied by Builders, and great advice on almost any garden DIY project, go to www.builders.co.za or phone the customer care line: 0860 BUILDERS/284533.

3

25 mm

25 mm

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Step 1 The legs are to be shaped as illustrated.Draw the shape on all four legs then use

the planer to plane off the excess wood.

Step 2Working with the shutter board, mark the portionof each corner that must be cut away so that the

legs can be accommodated. Use the jig saw to remove the corners.

Step 3Air holes must be drilled in the planks that will form the sides of the terrarium. Mark where the holes are

to go and then drill the holes using the 22 mm speed bit.

Step 4To build the frame that will hold the plants, start by attaching the sides to the legs, remembering that the

legs will go on the inside. To begin, place two of the legs on a flat surface, position one of the longer (1000 x 220 x 22) side planks on top of them and glue and screw them together, ensuring that the side is 35 mm from the top of the legs and leaving an overlap of 22 mm to accommodate the other two sides. Repeat the process with the other two legs, and then join the two sides with the remaining two planks (985 x 220 x 22) to complete the frame.

Step 5Slide the shutter board base into the frame.For drainage purposes, it must not be exactly level,

so make it slope to one side by allowing a 5 mm fall. Secure it with screws then drill a 22 mm drainage hole into the board on the lower side.

Step 6Using the router,cut a rebate 6 mm

deep into the inside edge of the top of each of the four planks making up

the frame. This will allow the glass to sit flush with the top of the frame.

Step 7 Apply two coats of Super Laykold and membrane to the inside of the frame to make it watertight. Paint the rest of the table with Hammerite ‘Hammered Black’, giving it two or three coats.

PLANTING UP YOUR TABLEFor your table terrarium choose plant types that can cope with indoor light and require a humid environment. We used: SOLEIROLIA soleirolii (peace-in-the-home), SYNGONIUM podophyllum ‘Pixie’ (arrowhead vine), Hypoestes sp., Scindapsus ‘Marble Queen’, Nephrolepis hybrid fern and Davallia sp. (rabbit’s foot fern).

Buy small sized plants in plastic pots, give them a good watering outdoors and allow them to stand for a few hours until all excess water has drained away, but the potting soil is still moist. Prepare the terrarium by putting down a layer of gravel and covering it with potting soil. Remove the plants from their pots and position them, filling in any spaces with potting soil. Top with bark mulch.

Clean the sheet of glass well and then carefully position it over the plants, making sure it rests on the rebate cut into the planks.

Unlike a sealed terrarium, this table terrarium has air holes so moisture will be lost through evaporation. The types of plants you choose will determine how often you need to lift the glass to mist or water them, feed them, tidy up the foliage and replace plants that have outgrown the space.

6

7

This table could also be planted up as

a mini desert withsucculents and

sand dunes.

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