The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud
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Transcript of The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud
Thisbookisdedicatedtomybeautifulfamily,withoutwhomtherewouldbenothing.
Contents
Fromthentoeternity
Essentialingredients
Toolsofthetrade
Biscuitssecs(Biscuits)
Gâteauxetdesserts(Cakesanddesserts)
Tartesettourtes(Tartsandpies)
Pâteàchoux(Chouxpastry)
Pâtefeuilletée(Puffpastry)
Croissants
Brioches
Pains(Breads)
Confitures,compotes,pâtesàtartineretcrèmes(Jams,compotes,spreadsand
creams)
Glossary
Frenchrecipelist
Index
Acknowledgments
Fromthentoeternity
IttooksomeperspectiveformetofullyunderstandhowIbecameinvolvedinthefoodindustryandhowIdevelopedmypassionforbakingandpâtisserie.Certainly,itwasn’tuntilIhadmovedawayfromthecountrythatIwasbroughtupinthatIbegantorealisehowdeeplyfoodisentrenchedinFrenchcultureandhowitinfuseseveryaspectofone’slife.
Surprisingly,perhaps,myfamilywasneveroverlyenthusiasticaboutfood,unlikesomeofmyfriends’families.AsachildIdon’trecallmyparentsevercookingelaboratedishes,theyrarelydrankwineexceptonoccasionssuchasChristmasorperhapsabirthday,andwehardlyeveratebreadwithourfoodordrankcaféaulait—hardlythetypicalFrenchfamilyatall.Nowadays,however,thestoryisalittledifferent—mymotherhasdiscoveredherinnermasterchefandmyfathercanbeoftenfoundinthekitchenslicingtomatoesorforaginginthegardenforherbs.ButwhenmysisterandIweregrowingup,foodwasregardedalmostasanafterthought,anecessitymorethananythingelse.EventodaymyfatherlikestoremindmethatoneofthebiggestshocksofhislifewaswhenItoldhimIwasleavingschooltobecomeapastrychef.Althoughhehasalwaysbeensupportiveofmydecision,itwassuchanunexpectedannouncementthatIdon’tthinkhehaseverfullyrecovered!
Foodingeneral,andbakinginparticular,bringspeopletogether—it’spartofthegluethatbindssocieties.Althoughsharingamealorcelebratinganoccasionwithfamilyandfriendsisundoubtedlypartofthefabricofeveryculturetheworldover,inFrancefoodisregardedasoneofthemainpillarsoftheartdevivre(theartofliving),alongsidemusic,fineartsorphilosophy.
GastronomyinFrancehasimbuedeveryaspectofsociety;ithasbeenritualised,romanticised,politicisedandeveninstitutionalised,havingbeenlistedbyUNESCOasanIntangibleCulturalHeritageofHumanity.Itisseennotasamerenecessityorasanaccompanimentforaspecialoccasion,butasanintegralpartofhowFrenchpeopledefinethemselves.IneveryFrenchcityandeveryvillageyouwillfindnotonlyashopthatspecialisesinfinepâtisseriesandconfectioneries,abakeryforyourbreadsandviennoiseriebutalsomostlikelyachocolateshop,aspecialisedconfectioneryboutique,atraiteur(delicatessen),afruitandvegetablemarket,acheeseshop…thelistgoeson.
ForaslongasIcanremember,Ihavealwayslikedsweetthings,notsomuchfortheirtastebutforwhattheyrepresented.Dessertsandsweetfoodwere,andstillare,intimatelylinkedwithnearlyeveryhappyoccasioninmylife:acandle-litcakeforabirthdaysurroundedbyallmyfriendsandfamily;abriochedesroisstuddedwithdriedfruitforChristmas;orsimplywakinguponaSaturdaymorningwiththesmellofcroissantsbakingintheovenandthesoundofanoldJimiHendrixrecordplaying,anddraggingmyselftotheterraceforbreakfastwithmymother,dadandsister.
Thesheersmellofsomecakesanddessertsalsotakesmebacktomykitchenathome,
standinguponawoodenstoolwhileIhelpedmymothermakeapoundcakeandthen,ofcourse,theinevitablefightwithmysisterastowhowasgoingtolickthebowlclean;orofsittinginmygrandmother’skitchen,listeningtoherstorieswhileshefriedherdeliciousbugnes.Thesearejustafewofthemanyhundredsofseeminglyinconsequentialmomentsthatmakeupachildhood,lyingdormantinthedeepestconfinesofone’smemory,readytobeunearthedinaninstantbyeventhesimplesttasteorsmell.
IrememberclearlywhenIfirstbegantounderstandtheincredibleemotivepoweroffood.EveryyearmymothertookmysisterandmetothebestpâtisserieinMarseille,tocelebrateStMichel’sday,ourpatronsaint.Onthisdayonly,wewereallowedtoeatasmanycakesandpastries,chocolatesandicecreamsaswewanted.Thisyearlytreatwassuchanexcitingtimeformeand,lookingbackonitnow,Icanseethatthiswasactuallywheremybakingjourneybegan.Oneyear,asweweresittingatasmalltabledrinkingoutoffancylittleteacups,surroundedbydazzlingdisplaysofcolourfulcakesandbiscuits,andknowingthatIcouldliterallyeatthewholeshopifIwantedto,IwaspromptedtoaskmymotherifIcouldspendmydaysoffschooldoingsomeworkexperienceinthekitchen.Mymothertalkedtothechefand,amazingly,theybothagreed,adecisionthatseemedsoinconsequentialatthetimebutwastochangemylifeforever.
By4amthefollowingWednesdayIwassittingnervouslyontheedgeofmybed,showeredanddressed,myheadspinningwithamixtureoffearandexcitement.Iwillneverforgetthatday.ItwasabitterlycoldmorningasmymotherandIsteppedinsidetheshopandwalkeddownthenarrow,dustywoodenstairs.Irememberthewarm,sweetsmellthatwafteduptogreetus,thensteppingintoakitchenfilledwithgiganticblocksofbutterandridiculouslylargebagsofflours,thetablescoveredwithtraysofshiny,translucentcandiedfruitsandjarsofgoldenhoney.Itwasatotalsensoryoverload—asensationthatissodeeplyingrainedinmymemorythateventodayIgetnervouseverytimeIwalkintoanewkitchen.
WhatIrecallmostaboutthosemorningswereallthoseburlychefshardatwork,liftingheavysacksofflourandcarryingback-breakingloadsofbutter,thenmovingseamlesslyintosubtleandprecisemovements,astheypipeddelicateornamentsoncakesorcarefullycutcroissantswiththeirenormousknives.Isoonrealisedhowmuchworkwasneeded,dayin,dayout,toproducetheseincrediblyintricateandtechnicalproducts,eatenwithoutsomuchasathoughtabouttheeffortittooktomakethem.AllthosebaguettesthatIateeveryday,thebrioches,lemontarts…somucheffortforseeminglysolittlerecognitionorfinancialreward.
WhatIbegantounderstand,overtime,wasthattherealrewardofworkingsohardtomakesomethingsocomplexlooksosimple,highlightsthefactthatbakingandcookingfulfilthosebasicneedsweallhave—theneedtocreate,contribute,shareandlove.Forme,thisencapsulatestheessenceofbaking:usingyourownhandstomakesomethingoutofsimple,honestingredients,somethingpreparednotforsustenanceorfinancialgain,but
purelyforthepurposeofbringingwarmthandhappiness,howeversmall,toanotherperson’slife.
TherecipesthatIhavechosentoincludeinthisbookholdalotofmeaningforme.Somearemoretraditionalthanothers,somearesimpleandothersabitmoreintricate,butallofthemareachievableinyourownkitchen.Beingagoodbakersometimesrequiresabasicunderstandingofchemistry,soIhavetriedtoprovideyouwithallthetechnicalinformationyoumightneedaswell,notonlytohelpyoutomaketheserecipesbutalsotogiveyoutheconfidencetoexperimentandcreateandtomotivateyoutofurtheryourjourneyintotheamazingandrewardingworldofbaking.Itrulyhopethatthisbookwillinspireyoutogivebakingachance.Everyonerelatestofoodbasedontheirownexperiencesbut,forme,ofallthetastesonlysweetcrossesthecultural,genderorgenerationalgapbyreachingdirectlyintoourdeepestchildhoodmemories,sothateventhesimplestofcakesordessertsmadeusingthesmallestamountofskillwillalwaysbereceivedasthegrandestofgestures.
JeanMichelRaynaud
Essentialingredients
Essentialingredients
Bakingisasmuchaboutscienceasitiscreativity.Assuch,thisbookisdesignedtoequipyouwithstrongbakingfoundationsuponwhichyoushouldfeelfreetoaddyourowncreativeorpersonalstamp—thisis,afterall,howmosttraditionalrecipescameabouttobeginwith.I’vetriednottoconfuseyouwithtoomanytechnicaltermsorguidelines,asthisbookisn’tmeanttoturnyouintoaprofessionalpâtissierbutrathertogiveyouthebasictoolstosuccessfullybakedeliciouscakesandpastriesathome.
Thefollowingtwosectionscovermostoftheessentialingredientsandtoolsyou’llneedasabaker,butitcertainlydoesn’tendhere.TherearelimitlessresourcesatyourfingertipsandI’dencourageyoutoreadfurther,especiallyonsubjectssuchasbakingbreadandworkingwithchocolate,tofurtherhoneyourcookingskills.AsanapprenticeIwastoldthatyoucanget80percentofthequalitywith20percentoftheskills,butyouwillneedtheother80percentoftheskillstoachievetheremaining20percentofthequality!
F lour
Whilemostgrainscanbegroundintoatypeofflour,inthisbookplain(all-purpose)flouralwaysreferstowheatflour.
Flourismostlygradedfollowingthreecriteria:theamountofmineralorash(whichismademostlyofbran),theprotein(gluten)contentandthehumiditylevel,allofwhichvaryaccordingtothetypeofwheatandhowitisprocessed.Systemsforgradingflourvarywildlyacrosstheglobe,rangingfromthedifferentnumericalclassificationsemployedinFrance,ItalyandGermany,whichrelatestotheamountofbranintheflour(seebelow),tothoseusedintheUnitedKingdom,AmericaandAustralia,whereflourtendstobegradedusingwordstodescribetheamountofprotein(gluten)orthebestapplicationfortheflour(‘breadflour’or‘cakeflour’,forexample).
Brancontent:Thisisoftenclassifiedusingnumbers,withlargernumbersindicatingahigherbrancontent:
‘00’flourinItalyandT45inFrance;
‘0’flourinItalyandT55inFrance;
‘1’flourinItalyandT65andaboveinFrance.
WhichflourshouldIuse?
Mostoftherecipesinthisbookwillworkwellwithagenerictypeofplain(all-purpose)flour,howeverIdorecommendyoutrytofindafloursuitedformakingbread.Forbestresults,agood
ruleofthumbtofollowwhenchoosingwhichflourtouseisasfollows:
LForallcakebattersandshortdoughs,it’spreferabletouseaveryrefined,low-bran,low-proteinplain(all-purpose)flour.Whileyouneedsomeglutenfor‘short’mixessuchasshortbreadandspongestoprovidestructure,toomuchglutenwillhaveadetrimentaleffectontheirtexturebymakingthemtougherandlesspalatable.Thisflourissoldundermanylabels:pastryorcakeflour,orsoftflour.
LForallyeastedpastryandbreads,useaplain(all-purpose)flour,preferablywithahighglutencontent.Glutenisacriticalingredientinthemanufactureofyeastedpastryandbreadsasitgivesthedoughitsstrengthandelasticity(corps),whichtrapstheairandcarbondioxide(CO2)createdbytheyeastsduringtheprovingprocess.Thisistypicallysoldasstrong,baker’sorbreadflour.
LForsourdoughbread,Irecommendusingaless-refined,preferablyorganicplain(all-purpose)flourwithahighglutencontent.Ahigherbrancontentisimportantwhenbakingsourdoughbecausethehighermineralcontenthelpsthenaturalyeasttodevelopfaster,improvingboththetextureandtasteofthebread.Thistypeofflourisbestsourcedfromhealthfoodstoresor,evenbetter,fromartisanalbakeries,whowillusuallybehappytosellyouasmallquantityofflour.Thisflourisalsosoldashardorstrongflour,baker’sorbreadflour.
Maizecornflour
Maizecornflour(cornstarch),alsoknownasmaizena,maizeflourandmaizestarch,ismadebygrindingcornkernelsandthenseparatingtheflourfromitsproteinsandallothercomponents.Itisaveryfine,tastelesspowderanddoesnotcontaingluten.Itisusedtothickensaucesandasareplacementforsomeoftheplainflourinshortbreaddough,toreducetheglutencontent,thuskeepingthedoughcrumblyandshort.Youcanfindmaizecornflourinmajorsupermarkets,healthfoodstoresorspecialistfoodstores.
Wheatencornflour
To confuse the issue, some brands of cornflour (cornstarch) sold insupermarkets inAustraliaareactuallymadefromwheat,notcorn(checkthelabelcarefully).Personally,IseenoreasonwhyyoushouldusethistypeandIalwaysrecommendthatyouusetruemaizecornflourmadefrommaize(corn).Whilewheatencornflourlooksverysimilartomaizecornflour,therearetwodistinctdifferences:
LFirstly,aswheatencornflourisgroundfromwheatandcontainsgluten,itwilladdacertainamountofelasticitytoyoursaucesandcustards.Itcan’tbeusedasafloursubstituteinshortcrustdoughs.
LSecondly,asathickener,wheatstarchabsorbslesswaterthancornflour,soyouwillneedtoadjusttherecipebyaddingalittlelessliquidoralittlemorewheatstarch.
Yeast
Yeastisanaturallivingorganismthatmetabolisesstarchsugarsintocarbondioxidegasandethanolduringtheprovingstagesofdough-making.Thedoughrisesthankstotheproliferationofcarbondioxidebubbles,whicharetrappedinthedoughbythegluten,andistheunderlyingreasonbehindusingflourwithahighprotein(gluten)contentforbakingbreadsandleavenedpastries.
Freshyeast Freshcompressedyeastispackagedasablockofsoft,moistlivingyeastcells.Itis the preferred ingredient used by professional bakers for its leaveningcapacity, but has a short life-span, making it rather wasteful for the homebaker.Asaruleofthumb,toconvertfreshyeasttoinstantdryyeast,usehalftheamount.Forexample,14g(½oz)freshyeastequals7g(¼oz)instantdryyeast.
Instantdriedyeast
Thisprocessedyeast isoriginallymade from the same livingculture as freshyeast, but has been dried and transformed into small granules that can beadded directly to your dough, verymuch as youwould fresh yeast. It has amuchlongerlife-spanthanfreshyeast,soisperfectforthehomebaker.Alltherecipesinthisbookuseinstantdriedyeastforthisreason.
Bicarbonateofsodaandbakingpowder
Theseleavening(rising)agentsreleasegasesmuchfasterthanconventionalyeastsanddonotrelyasmuchasyeastsdoontheelasticityofthemixescreatedbytheproteinintheflour.Consequently,theyarereallyusefulwhenbakinggoodssuchassponges,poundcakesorevencertaintypesofshortbreadswhenthetasteoffreshyeastisundesirableandtheglutencontentislow.
Bicarbonateofsoda
Bicarbonateofsoda(bakingsoda)isapotentleaveningagentthatcreatesrapidcarbon dioxide bubbles when exposed to an acid, such as chocolate, brownsugarorlemon.Awordofadvice:thisshouldbeusedinverysmallquantitiesand always measure it carefully. Too much will give a soapy taste to yourproducts.
Baking This is primarily bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) that has already beenmixed with an acid, usually cream of tartar and cut with cornflour
powder (cornstarch).Itcanbeaddedtowetmixesthathavelittleornootheracidsandstill produce carbon dioxide. Due to the fact that the active ingredient(bicarbonate of soda) has been diluted, the ratio of baking powder used inbakingisalwayshigherthanbicarbonateofsoda.
Sugar
Bothsugarbeetandsugarcaneproduceidenticalcomplexsugars(sucrose),composedoftwosimplesugars:dextrose,commonlycalledglucose;andfructose,themainingredientininvertsugar(trimoline).Boththeseingredientsareusedinprofessionalbaking.Technicallyspeaking,theyarehygroscopic(theyabsorbmoisturefromtheair),whichhelpsslowdownthecrystallisationofsugarsincreamsandcaramelsandprolongsthesoftnessofspongesandcakes.Thetypesofsugarmostcommonlyusedinthisbookinclude:
Castersugar Refinedfrombothsugarcaneandsugarbeet,caster(superfine)sugarishighlyprocessed pure sucrose and comes in the form of fine, clear crystals thatdissolveeasilyinliquid.Thismakesitpreferabletocoarserregularwhitesugarforbaking,especiallywhenmakingmeringue.
Rawsugar Raw(demerara)sugarisalessrefinedformofsugarextractedfromsugarcane.It isminimallyprocessedand still contains someof itsmolasses (around3.5percent),whichgivesitamorecomplexflavourandalightbrowncolour.Asthe crystals are relatively large, raw sugardoesn’tdissolve as readily as caster(superfine)sugar,soitisusedmainlytoadddepthofflavourandalittleextratexturetobiscuitsandcrumbles.
Brownsugar Brownsugar ismuch less refined thanbothcaster (superfine) sugarandraw(demerara)sugar.Theheavytextureandbrowncolourisduetoitsveryhighmolassescontent(around10percent).I’mnotabigfanofthistypeofsugarbecauseitsstrongflavourtendstoeasilyovershadowotherflavours.
Pureicingsugar
Pureicing(confectioners’)sugarisaveryfinewhitepowderedsugarmadeof100percentsucrose;itissimplytheresultoffinelycrushingcaster(superfine)sugar.Mostoften,youwill comeacross icing (confectioners’) sugarmixture,whichisessentiallythesameproductbuthasasmallamountofstarchaddedtopreventthesugarfromabsorbinghumidityfromtheairandforminghardlumps.Iprefertousepureicingsugaroverthemixtureandjustpassitthrougha finemesh sieve to remove any lumps. You can alsowhizz it up in a foodprocessorbeforeusingit.
Pearl sugar (also calledhail sugar or nibbed sugar) is oftenused to decorate
Pearlsugar andtoaddcrunchandsweetnesstobiscuitsandpastries,suchaschouquettes.Thishighly refined formof sugar is compacted and then crushed into smallballs,whichcanwithstandhighheatwithoutmelting.
Salt
Apinchofsaltgoesalongwayincookingandiscriticalfordevelopingflavour,balanceandstability.Bakingisnoexception.Thereisamultitudeofdifferentsaltsonthemarketthesedays,rangingincolourfrompinktogrey,andinpricefromthecheapesttablesalttohigh-end‘gourmet’salts.Sowhatsaltshouldyouuseandwhen?
Seasaltorrocksalt ?
Let’sputthistorestonceandforall.Saltisamineralcalledsodiumchloride.Irrespectiveofwhetherithasbeenharvesteddirectlyfromtheseaordissolvedfromrocksedimentscreatedoverhundredsofmillionsofyearsago,sodiumchlorideremainssodiumchloride.Inbothcases,itwouldhavecomefromtheseaatonetimeoranother.Thereis,however,averydistinctdifferenceinhowthesaltisprocessed,resultinginseveraltypesofsaltcrystals,eachusedfordifferentpurposes.
Cookingsalts
Finesalt Fine salt (table salt) is made of very small, cubic crystals created by rapidvacuumevaporationofthebrinefromrocksaltorseawater.Unlikesaltflakes,these crystals of salt are tightly packed together and are hard to melt andcannotbeusedastexturalelements,asthistypeofsaltalwaystastestoo‘salty’.Finetablesalt,however,isperfectforuseindoughs,creams,saucesandstocks,ortodrymeatandpicklevegetables.
Finishingsalts
Saltflakes Saltflakesarecreatedbygentleevaporationofthebrine.Unlikefinetablesalt,they aremadeof largerpyramid-like flakes thatmelt easily, so are ideal as acondiment,orsprinkledoncaramels,chocolateorcandiedfruits.Duetothelarger sizeof their crystals and their ability todissolvequickly in themouth,saltflakesprovidealesssaltytastethanfinesalt.
OriginatingfromGuérande,onthewestcoastofFrance,thisisconsideredthe
Fleurdesel RollsRoyceofsalts.This typeofsalt ismadeof largecrystalsand is ideal foraddingbothtextureandasubtlehintofsaltinesstoyourcaramelsorfruit.Thesaltcrystalsonlyformunderspecificclimaticconditionsandareharvestedbyhand, making it a labour-intensive, finite resource and, as such, is quiteexpensive.
Butter
OneofthefundamentalingredientsinFrenchcookery,butterisespeciallyimportantinpâtisserieandbaking.Likemanythings,notallbutteriscreatedequalandvariessignificantlyinbothqualityandtaste,andthereforeprice.Hereareafewimportantthingstoconsiderwhenbuyingbutterforbaking.
Saltornosalt ?
Historically,saltwasaddedtobutterasapreservativebeforetheadventofrefrigeration.Todayitismainlyusedinsavourycooking,forthemanufactureofacidiccreamssuchasahollandaiseorbeurreblanc,ortospreadontoasttoaddanotherlayeroftaste.Inbaking,however,alotofrecipesdonotrequiresalt,soitisfarbettertoaddsalttorecipesthatneedseasoningratherthanusingsaltedbutter.
Howmuchfatistoomuchfat ?
Believeitornot,thereissuchathinginFrenchbakingastoomuchofagoodthing!Todaybuttersfromaroundtheworldcontainbetween80and85percentfat.Typically,Europeanbuttercontainsaslightlyhigherfatcontent(hencelesswater)andisbettersuitedforuseinflakypastriessuchascroissantandpuff.Butterwithalowerfatcontent(andthereforehigherwatercontent),suchasthosefoundinNewZealand,AustraliaandAmerica,emulsifybettersoaremoresuitablethanEuropeanbutterswhenmakingemulsifiedbasessuchascurds,ganachesandcreamedcakebatters.
Culturedornotcultured?
Culturedbutterwastraditionallymadefromfermentedrawcream,buttodayitisusuallymadebyaddingacultureandlacticacidtothepasteurisedcreambeforethechurningprocess,thenlettingthebutterageinstorage.Thisprocessprovidesanaddeddepthofflavourcomparedtoregularbutterandhasamoreyeastyor‘buttery’flavour.It’sidealforbalancingthetartnessorbitternessofcreamssuchassaltedcaramel,lemoncurds,organachesmadewithahighcocoacontent.Foranyothercreams,especiallythosemadewithsubtleflavoursorsweeterchocolatesuchasmilkorwhite
chocolate,Irecommendyouuseastandard,off-the-shelfunsaltedbutter.
Cream
Buttermilkfatislessdensethanbuttermilk,soitrisestothetopofthemilkandformsathicklayer,whichisskimmedoffbeforethemilkishomogenised.Thedifferenttypesofcreamrefertotheamountofbutterfattheycontainand,asageneralguide,theyarebrokenintothreegroups.
Typesofcream
Lightcream Alsoknownassinglecreamorpouringcream,thiscontains18–25percentfat.Personally,Ineverusethiscream.Itistoothintouseonfruitorforpouringdirectlyonatartordessert,anddoesnotcontainenoughfattocontributetothetextureandfeelofanybakedgoods.
Whippingcream
This cream contains 35 per cent fat. It is themost common cream used inbaking,andistheonlycreamIeveruseincooking.Ithastheperfectratiooffatto liquid and adds a wonderful creaminess to your ganache, curds or cakebatters.ItistheonlycreamyoucanusetowhipintoasmoothandfluffycrèmeChantilly.Confusingly, some35percent fatcreamscontaingelatineandarelabelled‘thickenedcream’,somakesureyoucheckthelabel.
Thickcream Alsoknownasdoublecream,heavyorthickdollop,thistypecontains48percentfatandover.Whilesomebakersoccasionallyusethiscream,Ionlyeveruse it as a servingaccompaniment. Ioftenadda small amountof alcohol tomitigate its richness; for example, a small amountofCalvadosmixedwith agenerousdollopofthickcream,toserveonawarmtartetatin.
However,thissystemofcategorisingcreamsisoftenconfusingforthecookbecausethefatcontentvariesfromcountrytocountryandevenfrombrandtobrand.Thebestwaytochoosetherightcreamforyourneedsistogobythefatcontentonthelabelandnotbythetypeofcreamlistedonthelabel.
Eggs
Ialwayschoosefree-rangeeggsovercagedeggsforobviousreasons,butsurprisinglyenough,whenitcomestobaking,therearenonoticeabledifferencesbetweenthetwo.Thetypeofeggyouchooseisentirelyuptoyou,andwillbeadecisionbasedmoreoneconomicalandethicalreasonsthananythingelse.
Whileeggscomeinavarietyofsizes,rangingfrommedium(40–50g/1½–1¾oz),large(50–60g/
1¾–2¼oz)toextra-large(60–70g/2¼–2½oz),withsomeweighingalmost80g(2¾oz),alltheeggsusedinthisbookare55g(2oz),whichisabakingindustrystandardsize.
Hereareafewusefultips:
LWhenbakingwithsmallquantitiesofeggs,breaktheeggsintoabowlandwhiskthemlightlywithaforksothatyouendupwithanevendistributionofeggyolkandwhite.
LWhenmakingmeringue,alwaysmakesureyourbowlisspotlesslycleanbeforeaddingthewhites—useapieceofpapertowelmoistenedwithalittlevinegartowipethebowlclean—andmakesureyourwhitesdonotcontainanytracesofeggyolk.Eggyolkcontainsabout60percentfatandwillpreventyoureggwhitesfromwhiskingtotheirfullestpotential.
LUseeggsatroomtemperature.Thisisveryimportantwhenmakingmeringuebecausecoldeggwhitesarelesselastic,andsoarelessabletoretainair.Inrecipesusingwholeeggs,thewarmthoftheairtemperaturesoftensthefatintheyolkandmakesiteasiertoemulsifywithotherliquids.
LSometimesarecipewillcallforanexactweightofeggwhitesratherthananumber,soyouwillneedtoseparatetheeggsintoabowlandweighthem.Asaguide,a55g(2oz)eggcanbebrokendownintothreeparts:30g(1oz)forthewhite,20g(¾oz)fortheyolkand5g(1/8oz)fortheshell.
Eggwash
Usedtoaddcolourandshinetopastriesandbreads,mosteggwashesaresimplymadeoflightlywhiskedeggsandapinchofsalt.Sometimesadashofmilk,creamorwaterisaddedtothintheeggwash.Thereareafewkeyfactorsthatwilldeterminehowfastanddeepthecolourdevelops.
Theratioofalbumen(eggwhite)toeggyolk:Whileboththeeggwhiteandyolkcontainproteinsthatbrownduringbaking,itisthefatintheyolkthatcontributesmosttoashinieranddarkerfinish.
Thesugarcontentofthebatterordough:Therearetwobrowningreactionsthathappenduringbaking:caramelisation(browningofthesugar,orsucrose,inthebatter)andtheMaillardreaction(thebrowningoftheproteinsandcarbohydrates).Putsimply,themoresugarinyourpastry,themoreitisgoingtocolourduringbaking.
Oventemperature:Ifyourovenistoohot,thetopwillbrownbeforethedoughinsideiscooked,socolourationisnotalwaysareliablesignthatyourpastriesandbreadsaredone.
Hereareafewtipstohelpyoudecidewhattypeofeggwashtouse:
LWhenbakingpastriesorbreadsthathaveahighsugarcontent,suchasshortbreadandbrioche,makeaneggwashusingwholeeggsandapinchofsalt.Thispreventsthetopfrombrowningtooquicklyandtoomuchbeforethedoughiscookedthrough.
LWhenbakingdoughsthathavealowsugarcontent,suchaspuffpastryorpâtebrisée,addmoreyolkstotheeggwashtoachievegoodcolourinthetimeittakesthepastrytocook.
Chocolate
Mostofthechocolateweeattodaycomesfromthreetypesofcocoabean(orcacaobean)—Forastero,CriolloandTrinitario—whichallvaryimmenselyinrichness,flavourandtaste,aswellasyieldandavailability.Forasteroisthemostwidelyavailable;ithasablanderflavourandacheaperprice.Criollohasaverystrongtasteandistherarestandthereforethemostexpensivecocoabean.Trinitario,ahybridcrop,hasamorerefinedflavourandispreferredbysmaller,morespecialisedchocolatemanufacturers.
Thechocolatemanufacturingprocesses
Beforeendingupastheproductwelovesomuch,cocoabeansmustundertakealengthyseriesofprocesses,allcriticaltothefinishedflavourandtextureofthechocolate.
Fermentation:Thefruitsareharvested,thensplittoremovethebeansandpulp,whicharethenlefttofermentnaturallyoverseveraldays.Thisprocessiscriticalforthebeantodevelopitskeyflavoursandnuancesandreducesitsinherentbitterness.
Dryingandroasting:Thefermentedbeansandpulparethenseparatedandthebeansaredriedtopreventmouldgrowth.Thebeansareroastedtorefinetheflavoursandfurtherreducetheacidity.
Grindingandconching:Oncethebeanshavebeenroasted,thenibsareseparatedfromthehusks,groundandliquefiedintoathickpastecalledcocoamassorliquor.Thispasteisthenfurtherrefinedintotwocomponents:cocoabutter(theflavourcarrier)andcocoasolids(theflavour).Atthisstage,cocoabutter,cocoasolids,sugarandasmallamountsoylecithinaremixedinvariousratios,dependingonthemanufacturer’spreference,tomanufacturedarkchocolate.Milksolidsareaddedtomakemilkchocolate.Theseingredientsarethenputthroughaprocesscalledconching,wheretheyaregroundtogether,sometimesoverdays,tofurtherrefinethetextureandflavourofthefinalproduct.
Tempering:Thisprocessinvolvesheatingandthencoolingthechocolate,toavoidtheformationoflarge,irregularfatcrystals,typicallyexemplifiedbyawhite,mould-likecoatingandgrainytexture.
Typesofchocolate
Darkchocolate
Most chocolate sold today has a percentage reference clearly printed on thepackaging,typicallyrangingfrom55–80percent.Thispercentagereferstotheamountofcocoa(orcocoamass)thechocolatecontains.Forexample,a60percentchocolatewillbemadeof60percentcocoamasswiththeremaining40percentrepresentingthesugarcontentandasmallamountofemulsifyingsoylecithin.Consequently, the flavourof the chocolatewillbecome increasinglypronouncedwiththeincreaseinpercentage(andtheconsequentreductioninsweetness).
Milkchocolate
This is made by adding milk solids (milk powder) to a conventional darkchocolate.Theycomeinavarietyofpercentages,somesweeterthanothers.Ialwaysrecommendusingahighpercentagecocoacontent,around40–45percent,which,bydefinition,contains lesssugarandconsequentlyretainsmoreoftheoriginalcocoacharacteristics.
Whitechocolate
Theelephantintheroom,whitechocolatedoesnotcontainanycocoasolids.It is a concoction of milk solids (milk powder), cocoa butter and sugar. Itshouldbeusedsparinglyasittendstobeoverlysweet(itcontainsupto60percentsugar)andcanquicklyoverpowerothersubtleflavours.
Cocoapowder
This is made by extracting cocoa butter from the cocoa mass by hydraulicpressing.Itisthenpulverisedintoapowder.Initspureform,cocoapowderisunsweetened and bitter and this is the cocoa I use in allmy recipes. Dutchcocoa is unsweetened cocoa that has been treated to neutralise its inherentacidity.However,becauseyou sometimesneed theacid in the cocoa tohelpactivatebicarbonateofsodaandgivealifttocakesandbiscuits,Iprefertouseregular cocoa powder. Sweetened cocoa powder is typically used for hotchocolateandistoosweettocookwith.
WhichchocolateshouldIchoose?
Asacook,it’seasytofallintothetrapofbuyinghighpercentagechocolatebecauseitisperceivedasbeingbetter—butit’sallaboutbalance.Thetypeofchocolateyouusewillhaveacriticalimpactonhowyourcreamsemulsifyandset.Usingachocolatewithahighercocoapercentagethanrecommendedintherecipewillhardenyourcreamstoomuchandmostlikelydestabilise(split)theemulsionduetotheincreaseincocoafat.Conversely,usingachocolatewithalowerratioofcocoathanrecommendedwillgiveyouasofterfinishedproduct.
Theamountofsugarthechocolatecontainsisanotherkeyconsideration,asit’simportanttofindtherightbalanceofsweetnessandflavour.Forexample,ifyou’recookingwithchocolatethatcontainsahighpercentagecocoa(andthuslowinsugar),youwillneedtoneutralisetheinherent
bitternesswithatouchofchilli,strongspices,saltorpepper.Asweetchocolate,ontheotherhand,willbenefitfromtheadditionofatartoracidictastesuchaslime,pineappleorGreekyoghurt.
Toolsofthetrade
Toolsofthetrade
Peoplehavebeenbakingforthousandsofyearswithlittlemorethanapot,acuttingdeviceandsomefire.Whileit’stemptingtobuylotsofbeautifulbitsandpieces,manyoftheseendupinthebottomofadrawergatheringdust,orbreakeasilyandendupinthebin.Ratherthanbuyinglotsofequipment,Ithinkit’smuchbettertoinvestinafewbasicgood-qualitypieces.Toachievegoodresultsyoudon’tnecessarilyneedallthebellsandwhistles,andyoucanalwaysimprovise—asimplebottlemakesaperfectrollingpinandapairofhandscankneadbreaddoughtoperfection.
Ovens
Thereareseveraldifferenttypesofovensavailable,butIwillfocusontheonesyouarelikelytouseinadomestickitchen.
Convection(fan-forced)ovens
Thisisthemostcommondomesticovenandalltherecipesinthisbookusethistype.Convectionovensworkbyrotatingtheambientheatgeneratedbytheheatingelement,ensuringabetterheatdistribution.Italsoincreasestheoveralloventemperatureintheovencomparedtoastatic(non-fan-forced)oven.
Staticovens
Theseovensuseradiantheatviaelementssituatedinsidethecookingchamberandrelyuponnaturalconvectiontodistributetheheat.Assuch,theyaremorelikelytohaveanirregularcookingpatternandarepronetohotspots(seetips).Whenusingastaticoven,increasetherecommendedtemperaturefortherecipesinthisbookby10°C(18°F).
Refractoryovens
Mostoftenpoweredbywood-fireorelectricity,theseovensworkbyambientheat,wheretheheatingelementwarmsathicklayerofbricksorbakingstonessituatedonthebottomoftheoven.Theheatisthenrefractedfromthetopbyanotherlayerofbricksorstone.Personally,Ithinkthisistheonlytypeofovensuitableforbakingsourdoughbreadsandbecausemosthomecooksdon’thaveaccesstothistypeofoven,Ididnotincludeanyrecipesforsourdoughbreadinthisbook.If,however,you’reluckyenoughtohaveabackyardwood-firedoven,allofthebreadrecipesinthisbookwillcookperfectlyinit.
Importanttips:
Coolit:Keepinmindthattheoveninyourkitchenisafractionofthesizeweuseincommercialbakingand,assuch,theheatingelementwillbeclosertoyourgoods.WhileIhavetriedtoadjusttherecommendedcookingtemperaturestoaccommodatethis,yourovenwillalmostalwaysbehotterthanwhatthedialindicates.Tobesafe,beginbakingat10°C(18°F)lessthanrecommended;youwillhavefewerproblemscookingwithaslightlycooleroventhanahotterone.
Nevercookwithradiantheat…insulate:Wehaveallexperiencedthisbefore:whenyousitinfrontofaradiantheateryousoonstarttofry,buttakeonestepawayandyoufreeze—suchisthewonderofradiantheat!Likewise,iftheheatingelementinsideyourovenisvisible,youwillneedtoinsulateittodispersetheheat.Todothis,placeabakingtraybetweentheelementandyourgoodsduringbaking.Thiswillhelpdissipatetheradiantheat,makingitmoreregularand‘softer’.
Hotspots:Mostovens,fromthedomestickitchentothelargestfactoryoven,willhavehotspots.Theseareareaswheretheheatismoreprominentthanothers.Inordertoworkoutwherethatisandfixit,heatyouroventoitsmaximumtemperature,sprinkleanevenlayerofflouroveryourbakingtray,thenplacethetrayinthemiddleoftheoven.Closethedoorandwaitfortheflourtobrown—watchingverycarefullytomakesurethatitdoesn’tcatchalight.Ifyounoticethatsomeareasaredarkerthanothers,simplycuta20cm(8in)squareoffoil,folditintoquarters,thenplaceitonyourinsulatingtray(theonebetweentheheatingelementandyourbakedgoods)onthespotwheretheflourbrownedthemost.
Youwillfindthatunlessyoubakeinarefractoryoven,thebottomofyourpastriesarealmostalwaysgoingtobecookedlessthantheyareonthetop,soIrecommendusingthethinnestbakingtrayyoucanfind.
Thermometers
Irecommendedadigitalprobethermometerscaledto200°C(400°F),asitallowsyoutogetaninstant,easyandaccuratereading.Thisisespeciallyusefulwhendoingsugarworkandtemperingchocolate,andalsoforcheckingtheinternaltemperatureofcakes,creams,meatandfish.Traditionalleadthermometersarefine,althoughtheyareinfinitelymorefragileandcanbedifficulttoread.
Kitchenscales
‘Whatisheavier,akiloofleadorakilooffeathers?’
Themostcriticalpieceofequipmentforabakerorpastrychefisanaccuratedigitalscale.Unlikeotherareasofcooking,whereyoucanaddasplashofthisandahandfulofthatandendupwithsomethingdelicious,thesuccessofbakingreliesentirelyonfollowingtherecipecarefullyandpreciselymeasuringeachingredient.
Fordecades,professionalshaveavoidedthevolumetricsystem(cups)tomeasureingredients,notonlyforthesakeofaccuracy,butmainlytosimplifyproduction.Eachingredienthasitsownspecificdensity.Forinstance,acupofwaterdoesn’tweighthesameasacupofoil,andsimilarlyflourislighterthansugar,butakilogramofanythingwillalwaysweighakilogram,irrespectiveofhowmuchvolumethereis.Assuch,whatmattersistheweightofingredientsinyourrecipe,neverthevolume.
Irecommendagooddigitalscalethatweighstothesinglegramasopposedtothosethatweighin5g(1/8oz)increments.Thiswillmakeallthedifferencewhenitcomestomeasuringoutsmallquantitiesofingredientssuchasyeast,bakingpowderandsalt.Youdon’thavetospendasmallfortuneeither,asmostdigitalscalesarequiteaffordable.
Agoldenruletofollow:
Irecommendthatyouhaveallyouringredientsreadyandweighedbeforeyoustartbaking.Thisisimportantfortworeasons.Firstly,someingredientsreactwithanother;forinstance,ifyoupoursugaroneggyolkswithoutstirringimmediately,thesugarwillabsorbwaterfromtheyolkandcreateaproteinlump(thisiscalled‘burningtheeggs’).Secondly,ifyouringredientsarenotweighedbeforeyoubegin,youmightfindyourselfburningatoffeewhileweighingoutyourcream,oroverwhippingyoureggwhiteswhilemeasuringyoursugarwhenmakingmeringue.
Electricmixers
Whileitwillbeoneofthemostexpensivepiecesofequipmentinyourkitchen,agoodstandmixerwithastrongmotorwilllastyoualifetimeandwillsaveyoualotoftimeandeffort.Whenchoosingamixer,sticktothebasics:allyouneedarethethreeattachments(whisk,paddleandhook)andvariablespeedbuttons.Ifyoudon’thaveadoughhookoryouthinkthemotorisn’tquiteuptothechallengeofworkingabreaddough,kneadthedoughbyhand,theold-fashionedway.
Foodprocessors
Foodprocessorsarenotexactlyessentialforbaking,butwillcertainlymakeyourlifealoteasier.They’regreatforemulsifyingcreamsandcustards,crushingnuts,slicingfruitsandvegetablesorevenmixingsmallamountsofdough,suchasshortbread.Mypersonalrecommendationistolookforaprocessorwithdoubleblades.They’realotmoreefficient,provideamoreconsistentfinishandgeneratealotlessfrictionandthereforeheat,whichisespeciallyimportantwhencrushingnuts,astoomuchheatwillturnthemintoapaste.
Immersionorstickblenders
Animmersionorstickblenderisanimportanttoolinabakers’arsenal.Itdoesagreatjobofemulsifyingthefatandliquidincreamsandsauces,fromchocolateganachetobeurreblancormayonnaise.Unlikeawhisk,whichintroducesairintothemixture,animmersionblenderbindsthefatandtheliquidtogether(makinganemulsion),thusimprovingthetextureandreducingthefattysensationonthepalate.
Knivesandspatulas
Chefsarenotoriouslyprotectiveoftheirknivesandspatulas,notjustbecausethey’resocostlybutalsobecausethey’realmostlikeanextensionofourhands.Themorewebecomeusedtotheirweightorshape,themorepreciseandfastwebecomewhenusingthem,andthelesslikelywearetocutourselves.Whilethisappliestoalesserextenttoamateurbakers,Iwouldalwaysadviseyoutoinvestinqualitytools(orputitonyourChristmaswishlist),astheywilllastlongerandperformbetterovermanyyearsthanpoorerqualitytools.Mysuggestionforbuyingknives,spatulasand,indeed,anykitchentoolistogotoagoodkitchenwareshop,touchandholdtheminyourhandsuntilyoufindonethatfeelscomfortable.
Ideally,youshouldhavethreetypesofknivesandonespatula:
Chef’sknife Thisknife isused for everything, fromcuttingcroissants to cutting zest intojulienne,andcomesinawiderangeofsizes.Whileentirelysubjective,Ithinkexcessively longorheavyknivesaredifficulttohandleandnotveryuseful inbaking. I recommend a heavy-handled knife with a 25 cm (10 in) blade.Paradoxically,thebiggertheknife,thelesslikelyyouaretoinjureyourself.
Paringknife Thisknife isused formoreprecise tasks, suchas coringorpeeling fruit andvegetables.Itisamulti-purposeknife,verysimilartoachef’sknifebutwithasmallerbladeofaround10cm(4in).
Serratedknife
Alsoknownasabreadknife,thebladeistypically15–20cm(6–8in)inlength,verysharpanddesignedtocutthroughsoftbreadsandbrioches.
Steelspatula These are used to fill or decorate cakes. Choosing the length of spatula, itsweightandflexibilityisentirelyamatterofpersonalpreference.
P ipingbagsandnozzles
Apipingbagisoneofmyfavouritetoolsinthekitchen.Iuseitforsimpletaskssuchaspipingandfillingchouxpuffs,toverytrickydecoratingandwritingtechniques.Fortherecipesinthisbook,youwillonlyrequireonesmall(4mm/1/8in)plainnozzleandonelarge(1cm/½in)nozzleandasmallpipingbag.Theyarecheapandreadilyavailableonlineorfromacakedecoratingstore.
Tinsandrings
Youdon’tneedoneofeveryshapeandsizeontheplanet.Ifyoudon’thaveexactlytherighttin,usetheclosestsizeyouhave—generally1cm(½in)largerorsmallerwon’tmakemuchdifference.
Afewbasictinsthatyouwillneedarea20cm(8in)and25cm(10in)roundcaketins,a25cm(10in)tarttinwithremovablebase(ortartring)anda25cm(10in)loaf(bar)tin.Aslongasthevolumeofthetinisroughlythesameaswhattherecipecallsfor,youcanalsousesquareorrectangularcaketinsinsteadofroundtins.Tartrings(alsocalledringmoulds)areoftenusedbypâtissiersforaestheticreasonsbutareinterchangeablewithflutedtarttinswithremovablebases.Ifyouareusingatartring,placetheringonapieceofbakingpaper,linewiththepastry,thenslideathinbakingtrayunderneath.
Siliconemats
Whilecompletelyinterchangeablewithbakingpaper,siliconematsareaworthwhile,ifnotnecessary,investmentbecausethey’rereusableandvirtuallyindestructible.Whenbuyingamat,makesureitmatchesthesizeofyourbakingtrays,astheycan’tbetrimmedtofit.
Biscuitssecs
‘Poetryisthesynthesisofhyacinthsandbiscuits.’
CARLSANDBURG
Tuilesauxamandes(Almondtuiles)withTuilesdentelleàl’orangeetàlacannelle(Orangeandcinnamonlacetuiles)
Biscuitssecs
(Biscuits)
Idon’tknowwhywelovebiscuitsasmuchaswedo.Maybeit’sthefactthatmostcultureshavebeenbakingbiscuitsinoneformoranotherforhundredsofyears,ingrainingthemintoourcollectiveconsciousness.Ormaybeit’stheirsize—thingsjustlookbetterandcuterwhentheyaresmall.Inanycase,everyonehasmostlikelygazedlonginglyatthehugeassortmentofcolourfulanddelicious-lookingbiscuitsthatadorntheshelvesoftheirlocalbakeryand,almostcertainly,eachofusisguiltyofshakingthebiscuittinathome,hopingtofindthelastremainingbiscuit,onlytoendupscavengingafewcrumbs.
Idecidedtofeaturebiscuitsasthefirstchapterinthisbookbecausetheyareamazinglysimpletomakeandarethereforeidealtohoneyourbakingskills,ortointroduceyourkidstothejoysofbaking.Thegreatthingaboutbakingbiscuitsisthatonceyouunderstandthebasicsofmakingasimpledough,youcansubstituteingredientsbasedonyourownpreferences,orhavefunexperimentingwithflavoursbyaddingahintofspiceorsomenutsordriedfruitsifyoulike.Whoknows,youmayjuststumbleuponthenextclassicbiscuitrecipe!
Croquantsauxamandes
(Almondbiscotti)IwantedtoincludethistypicallyProvençalbiscuitinthisbookbecause,forme,itliesatthecore
ofwhatIlovemostaboutbaking—itsabilitytounlockmemorieslongthoughtforgotten.Itamazesmehowthesimpleactofbitingintoasmall,seeminglyinconsequentialbiscuitcantransportme,butforabriefmoment,straightbacktomychildhood,toawarmandhappyplace.
ManyyearsagowhenIwasyoungandlivinginMarseille,IhadafriendThierrywhosemotherwasanexcellentbaker,particularlyfamedforhercroquantsauxamandes.Everytimewevisited,weraidedthekitchencupboardinadesperatesearchforthebiscuittin.Hercroquantswerefragrantbutnotoverbearing,crunchy(which,bytheway,isthedirecttranslationofcroquant)yetsoft,andthereneverseemedtobeenoughofthem.FormanyyearsIbeggedThierrytoaskherfortherecipe,butshewouldneverpartwithit.Then,onmylastdayinFrance,aswewereallwaitingintheairportloungebeforemytriptoAustralia,Thierryslippedsomethingintomypocket.Itwasasealedenvelope,stamped‘StateSecret’.Ismiledgratefullyathimandgotontheplane.
Makesabout50
250g(9oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
250g(9oz)caster(superfine)sugar
250g(9oz)almondmeal
3eggs,lightlybeaten,plus1extra,toglaze
2teaspoonsnaturalvanillaextract
2teaspoonsorangeblossomwater
200g(7oz)rawalmonds,roasted
100g(3½oz)pistachios
LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaper.
LCombinetheflour,sugarandalmondmealinabowl,thentransfertoaworksurfaceandmakeawellinthecentre.Pourtheeggs,vanillaandorangeblossomwaterintothewelland,usingyourfingertips,starttobringthedryingredientsintotheeggsandbeginmixing.Continuetoincorporatemoreandmoreoftheflourmixture,thenaddthealmondsandpistachiosandmixuntilalltheingredientshaveformedasuppledough.
LDividethedoughintofivepieces,thenrolleachpieceintoacylinderabout5–6cm(2–2½in)
indiameterandplaceononeofthelinedtrays.Lightlybeattheextraegginasmallbowl,thenbrushtheeggoverthetopofthedoughcylinders.
LBakethecylindersfor20minutes,thenremovefromtheovenandcoolslightly.Whencoolenoughtohandle,usealargechef’sknifetocutthecylindersinto2–3cm(¾–1¼in)thickslices.Placethebiscuitsonthelinedtraysinasinglelayerandbakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor15minutes,oruntillightgoldenbrown.Transfertoawireracktocool.
LCroquantsaredeliciouseatenwithacupofteaorcoffee,orasasmalltreatforkidswithaglassofmilk.Storetheminanairtightcontainerforupto1month.Aswithallotherbiscuits,iftheystarttosoftenalittle,simplydrythemina100°C(210°F)ovenfor10minutes.
Ithasbeenquiteajourneyforthesehumblebiscuits.Originallycalledcasse-dentsor‘teeth-breakers’,thesewerebakedtwicesotheywouldlastforalongtime,tocaterforthedemandsofsailorsonlongjourneysatsea.Nowadays,theyhavebeenrefinedintoamorepalatablebiscuit,andarecommonlyfoundinmostMediterraneancitiesunderthenamecroquantorbiscotti.
Tuiles
Tuiles
Tuilesauxamandes
(Almondtuiles)Thiscircular,concavebiscuitismeanttoresembletheshapeofarooftile(which,incidentally,is
theliteraltranslationoftheword‘tuile’),usuallyfoundinthesouthernregionofFrance.Therearehundreds(Iassume)ofvariationsoftheoriginalalmondtuile,rangingfrombrandysnapstofruit-basedlacetuiles,allcharacterisedbytheirdistinctivecurveandcrunchytexture.
Makes20–25
note:Allingredientsmustbeatroomtemperature.Startthisrecipeadayahead.
75g(2¾oz)unsaltedbutter
125g(4½oz)eggwhites(about4)
200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar
¼teaspoonnaturalvanillaextract
50g(1¾oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
200g(7oz)flakedalmonds
LPutthebutterinasmallsaucepanoververylowheat.Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted,thenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolfor5minutes.
LPuttheeggwhites,sugarandvanillainalargebowl.Usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskthemixtureuntiltheeggwhitesbegintofoam.Combinetheflourandalmondsinasmallbowl,thenuseaspatulatofoldthemintotheeggwhites.Stirinthebutteruntilwellcombined.Donotletthebuttercooldowntoomuch,oritwillhardenuponcontactwiththecoolereggwhitemixture.Spoonthemixtureintoasmallbowl,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.
LStirthechilledmixtureuntilsmooth,thendrop2/3tablespoonsofmixtureontooneofthelinedtrays,spacingthemabout10cm(4in)apart.Lightlydipaforkinwaterandusethebackoftheforktospreadthemixtureintothin6cm(2½in)rounds.Bakethetuilesfor5–7minutes,oruntiltheybegintobrownaroundtheedges.Don’twaitforthemtobrowncompletely,orthey
willbecometoobrittletoshape.Removethetrayfromtheoven.
LWorkingquickly,useaspatulatocarefullyliftthetuilesoffthetray,thenlaythemoverarollingpinorsmallbottle.Youshouldbeabletoshapefourorfiveatatimeontherollingpin.Leaveuntilcompletelycool.Prepareandbakethenextbatchoftuiles,alternatingthetrayssothetrayyouareusinghashadtimetocooldown.Almondtuilesarebesteatenfreshlybaked,butcanbekeptforafewdaysinanairtightcontainer.
tip
You don’t need to use all themixture at once.Use half and bake some biscuits for afternoon tea, then store the rest of themixture in an airtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto2weeks.
Tuilesdentelleàl ’orangeetàlacannelle
Tuilesdentelleàl ’orangeetàlacannelle
(Orangeandcinnamonlacetuiles)
Makesabout20
note:Alldryingredientsmustbeatroomtemperature.
40g(1½oz)unsaltedbutter
2½tablespoonsstrainedorangejuice
140g(5oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,sifted
2tablespoonsplain(all-purpose)flour
smallpinchofgroundcinnamon
finelygratedzestof½orange
LPutthebutterinasmallsaucepanoververylowheat.Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted,thenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolfor5minutes.Whencool,addtheorangejuiceandstirtocombine.
LPuttheicingsugar,flourandcinnamoninalargebowlandwhisktogetherwell.Pourthebutterandorangemixtureintotheflourmixture,addtheorangezest,thenuseawoodenspoontocombinewell.Spoonthemixtureintoasmallbowl,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.
LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.
LStirthechilledmixtureuntilsmooth,thendrop½tablespoonsofmixtureontooneofthelinedtrays,spacingthemabout10cm(4in)apart.Bakethetuilesfor5minutes,oruntillightgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandleaveonthetraytocoolfor2–3minutes,oruntilyoucanliftthemoffthetraywithaspatula.Donotattempttohandlethemtooearly,becausethesoftcaramelmaysticktoyourskinandcauseverydeepburns.
LWorkingquickly,useaspatulatocarefullyliftthetuilesoffthetray,thenlaythemoverarollingpinorsmallbottle.Youshouldbeabletoshapefourorfiveatatimeontherollingpin.Leaveuntilcompletelycool.Prepareandbakethenextbatchoftuiles,alternatingthetrayssothetrayyouareusinghashadtimetocooldown.Lacetuilesarebesteatenfreshlybaked,butcanbekeptforafewdaysinanairtightcontainer.
Servethesedelicateandelegantlacetuilesasanaccompanimenttoasimplefruitsaladoricecreamtoaddtexture,orasasophisticatednibbleforyournextChampagnecocktail.Theyareversatiletoo;createyourownversionbysimplyswappingtheorangejuicewithanyotherjuices,suchasgrapefruitjuice,pineappleorguava.
F lorentines
It’softenthought(andoftendebated)thattheflorentinebiscuitcamefromFrance,andwhiletheyhavebeenastapleinalmosteveryFrenchbakerysincetheRenaissance,theirnameprovidesanobviousclueastowheretheyactuallyoriginated.Ilovethesebiscuitsfortheirbrightcontrastingcoloursandtheperfectbalancebetweenthebitternessofthedarkchocolateandthesweetnessofthecaramelisedalmondsandcandiedfruits.EnjoythemwithacupofstrongcoffeeoranEarlGreytea.
Makesabout20
180g(6¼oz)flakedalmonds
30g(1oz)almondmeal
30g(1oz)candiedorangepeel
30g(1oz)glacécherries,coarselychopped
30g(1oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter
150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
50g(1¾oz)honey
40g(1½oz)whippingcream(35%fat)
500g(1lb2oz)darkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),chopped
LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Linethreebakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.
LPutthealmonds,almondmeal,orangepeel,glacécherriesandflourinabowlandcombinewell.Putthebutter,sugar,honeyandcreaminaheavy-basedsaucepanoverhighheatandstircontinuouslyuntilitcomestotheboil.Reducetheheattomedium,thencontinuestirringuntilthemixturereaches115°C(240°F)onasugarthermometer.Removethepanfromtheheat,addthedryingredientsandcombinewell.
LUsingtwotablespoons(onetopickupthemixtureandtheothertopushitoff),droptablespoonsofhotmixtureontothelinedtrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.Youwillhavetoworkfast,asthemixturewillhardenquicklyasitcoolsdown.Wheneachtrayisfull,placeasheetofbakingpaperoverthetopandusethepalmofyourhandtogentlyflattentheflorentinestoa1cm(½in)thickness.Theyneedtobethesamethicknesssotheycookevenly.
LRemovethetoppieceofbakingpaper,thenplacethetraysintheovenandbakefor10–15minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Watchthemlikeahawk—burntflorentinesaren’tverypleasant!Removefromtheovenand,ifdesired,usealightlygreasedroundbiscuitcuttertoevenouttheshape.Leaveonthetraysuntilcool.
LTocoattheflorentines,slowlymeltthechocolateinabain-marie(seetips),thenremovethebowlfromtheheatandsetasideuntilthechocolateiscool.Workingwithonebiscuitatatime,diptheflatsideoftheflorentineinthechocolate.Ifyoufeelcreative,useacomboraforktocreatethedistinctivewavypatternonthechocolate.Placetheflorentines,chocolatesideup,onatraylinedwithbakingpaperandrefrigerateforabout10minutes,oruntilset.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature.
tips
Abain-marieisawaterbathusedtogentlycookingredientssuchaseggsorchocolate.Toprepareabain-marie,placeaheatproofbowloverasaucepanfilledwithwater,makingsurethebottomofthebowldoesnottouchthewater.Bringthewatertoasimmerovermediumheat.Thisensuresthattheingredientsinthebowlwillheatupverygraduallyandthatthecookingtemperatureneverexceeds80°C(175°F).
It’simportanttonotethatdarkchocolatetendstomelteasierthanmilkchocolate,whichcontainslesscocoabutterandthereforetendstoburnalotquicker.Ifyouaremeltingmilkchocolate,takeyourtime,leavetheheatonlowandstiroftenwithaspatulauntilmelted.
MacaronsdeNancy
(TraditionalNancymacarons)Thefirstthingyouwillnoticeaboutthesemacaronsisthattheyseeminglybearlittle
resemblancetothemacaronsyouareprobablymorefamiliarwith—themacaronGerbert,averypopularbiscuitthatcomesinhundredsofdifferentvariations.Inthepâtisserie,webakeover20,000oftheseeveryweek,buttheyaretechnicalandtime-consumingtomake(andprobablyoutsidethescopeofthisbook).
ThemacarondeNancyisaverytraditionalbiscuit;infact,itistheancestorofthefamedmacaronGerbert.MacaronsfirstarrivedinFranceinthesixteenthcenturywithCatherinedeMedici’sItalianpastrychefs,butreallygainednotorietyduringtheFrenchRevolutionwhentwonuns,SisterMargueriteandSisterMarie-Elisabeth,beganmanufacturingthemfromatowncalledNancy.Atthispointtheyweresinglealmondbiscuits,withachewycentreandbrittle,crunchyshell.ItwasnotuntilthenineteenthcenturythatPierreDesfontaines,acousinofafoundingmemberofthePâtisserieLadurée,createdthemacaronGerbertbysofteningupthemixturewithameringueandstickingtwoshellstogetherwithaflavouredfilling.
TherecipeformacaronsdeNancyisincrediblysimpleandremainsoneofthemostpopularbiscuitssoldinbakeriesthroughoutFrance.
Makesabout40
250g(9oz)almondmeal
320g(11¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar
100g(3½oz)eggwhites(about3–4)
¼teaspoonbitteralmondessence,ortotaste
100g(3½oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwobakingtrays,thenlinewithbakingpaper.
LCombinethealmondmealandcastersugarinabowl.Addtheeggwhitesandalmondessenceinoneadditionandstirwithawoodenspoonfor2–3minutes,oruntilaverystiffpasteforms.Themixturewillbegintosoftenasthewaterintheeggwhitesstartstodissolvethesugar.
LSpoonthemixtureintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzleandpipe5cm(2in)roundsontothelinedtrays,spacingthem3–4cm(1¼–1½in)apart.Usingapastrybrush
lightlydippedincoldwater,brushoverthetopofeachmacaron,thensprinkleagenerousamountoficingsugaroverthetop.Usethebrushtowetthetopsagainuntilalltheicingsugarhasdissolved.
LBakefor15minutes,oruntiljustbeginningtocolour.Donotletthemacaronscaramelisetoomuch,astheyneedtobefairlysoft.Removefromtheovenandleavetocoolonthetrays,thencarefullyremovefromthebakingpaper.Ifyourmacaronssticktothepaper,simplywettheundersideofthebakingpaperwithapastrybrushoraverywetcloth.Afterafewminutes,youwillbeabletoremoveyourpreciouslittlebiscuitsfromthepaper.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto7days.
tip
WhenbakingNancymacarons,donotstresstoomuchaboutthebakingtime.Removethemacaronsaftertherecommendedcookingtime, leavetocoolalittle,thentasteonetoseeifitiscookedtoyourliking—itshouldbesoftandchewyontheinsidewithacrispyshell.Ifyoufindyourmacaronsaretoosoft,simplyreturnthemtoalowoventodryoutforalittlelonger.
Congolaisàl ’orgeat
(Coconutmacaroonswithorgeatsyrup)Theselittlebiscuitsfollowstraightafterthemacaronrecipe,becauseIwantedtoclarifythe
pointthatmacaronsandmacaroonsareactuallytwodistinctlydifferentthings,howeversimilartheirnamesmightbewhentranslatedinEnglish.BoththetraditionalNancymacaronandthemorefamousGerbertmacaronaremadewithalmondmeal,whilemacaroonsaremadewithcoconut.
ThecoconutmacaroonisnotactuallyaFrenchcreation,butatypicallyAnglo-Saxonone,saidtohaveoriginatedfromScotlandinthe1930s.TheyquicklyspreadtoGermanyandtheNetherlands,thentoNorthAmericaandAustraliabeforefindingtheirwell-deservedspotontheshelvesofalmosteverybakeryinFrance.Theyareamazinglysimpletobake,packedfulloffibreand,moreimportantly,theyarejustdelectable.
Makesabout20
150g(5½oz)shreddedcoconut1/8teaspoonfinesalt
60g(2¼oz)eggwhites(about2)
2teaspoonshoney
150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
½teaspoonnaturalvanillaextract
2tablespoonsorgeatsyrup
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lineabakingtraywithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.
LPutthecoconutandsaltinalargeheatproofbowl.Puttheeggwhites,honey,sugar,vanillaandorgeatsyrupinasaucepanandwhiskcontinuouslyoverlowheatjustuntilthemixturefeelstepidtothetouch(about45°C/115°F).Pourthesugarmixtureontothecoconutandmixwithaspatulauntilwellcombined.
LTakesmallhandfulsofthemixtureandrollinto3–4cm(1¼–1½in)balls,thenplaceonthelinedtray.Unliketuilesorflorentines,macaroonswillnotspreadduringbakingsoyoucanplacethemclosetogether,butnottouching.Bakefor10minutes,oruntilthecoconutshredsontopofthemacaroonsbegintobrown.
LRemovefromtheovenandtransfertoawireracktocool.Ifyourmacaroonssticktothebakingpaper,simplywettheundersideofthepaperwithapastrybrushoraverywetcloth.Afterafewminutes,youwillbeabletoremovethemacaroonsfromthepaper.Macaroonsarebesteatenfresh,butwillkeepinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto4days.
Orgeatsyrupisavailableinlargesupermarketsorspecialistdelicatessensandisoftensoldasalmondsyrup.Itismadebyblendingalmonds,bitteralmonds,sugarandasmallamountoforangeblossomwater.Thesyrupcanbemixedwithwaterasarefreshingdrink,mixedwithalcoholicbeveragestomakecocktailssuchasMauresqueandMaiTai,orwithfruitjuicessuchasorangeandbananaormangoandpeach.ForgettheHangingGardensofBabylon,myseventhwonderoftheworldisasmallpatchofgrassinProvenceinsummer,whereIcanlayinalongchairwearingastrawhat,listeningtocicadasandsippingonacoldorange,bananaandorgeatcocktail.
Sablésàlaconfiture
(Jamshortbreads)Let’sfaceit;everyonelovesasoft,crumblyandbutteryshortbread.Whatmakesthesesospecial
isthattheycanbecuttoanyshapeandsize,filledwithjamofanyflavourand,moreimportantly,makingabatchofshortbreadonaSundayafternoonisagreatactivitythewholefamilycanenjoytogether.Traditionally,sablésàlaconfiturearemadewithtworoundbiscuitssandwichedtogetherwithstrawberryjam,withthreeholesrevealingtheshinyredspheresfrombehindaveiloficingsugar.Frankly,Iamatalosstoexplainthetechnicalreasonastowhytheytastesogood,buttheyjustdo.
Makesabout12sandwichedshortbreads
600g(1lb5oz)PâteSablée
pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,fordusting
250g(9oz)strawberryjam
LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Linethreebakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.
LDividethepastryinhalf,thencoveronehalfinplasticwrapandplaceinthefridge.Don’tattempttorolloutallthedoughatonce,asit’stoodifficulttoachieveaneventhicknesswhenrollingoutalargeamount.Rolloutthedoughonapieceofbakingpaperuntilabout5mm(¼in)thick,makingsureyoudustthepaperandrollingpinwithalittlebitoffloursothedoughdoesn’tstick.Usingan8cm(3¼in)roundcutter,cutoutasmanydiscsasyoucan(youwillneedanevennumberofdiscs).Ifthedoughisstickingtothepaper,placeinthefridgefor15minutestofirmupalittle.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.
LPlacethediscsonthelinedtrays.Usinga2cm(¾in)roundcutter,stampoutthreesmallholesfromhalfthediscs(leavetheotherhalfuncut,asthesewillformthebase).Bakefor15minutes,oruntillightgolden.Removefromtheoven,leaveonthetraystocoolalittle,thencarefullyturntheshortbreadbasesupsidedown.Whencompletelycool,dustagenerousamountoficingsugaroverthetopoftheshortbreaddiscswithholes.
LPutthejamand1tablespoonwaterinasmallsaucepanandstirovermediumheatuntilsoftandwellcombined.Removefromtheheat.Spreadabout1tablespoonhotjamontotheupside-downshortbreadbases,thengentlycoverwiththesugaredtops.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature.
tip
Unlikepâtesucrée,whichhasthetendencytotoughenwithexcessivemixing,pâtesabléecanberolledoverandoveragainandstillremainveryshortandtasty.Thismakesitanidealpastryforkidstoplaywith,astheycanmakefunbiscuitshapesthenrerollthedoughscrapsandcontinuecutting.Feelfreetokeepanydoughoffcutsinthefridgeorfreezer,coveredinplasticwrap,toreuseatalaterstage.
Biscuitsauchocolat,auxamandesetauxpistaches
(Chocolate,almondandpistachiobiscuits)Writingabookonbakingandnotincludingarecipeforchocolatebiscuitswouldbealmost
sacrilegious,regardlessofwhethertheyaretypicallyFrenchornot.Personally,Ilikemychocolatebiscuitscrunchyontheoutsidewithasoft,chewycentreand,ofcourse,withpistachios.Ihavedevelopedareputationforoverdoingthepistachiosabit,butIreallycan’timagineaworldwithoutthisamazingnut.Whetherjustfortheircolour—sprinkledonaplatetocreateabeautifulcontrastwithredcherriesorchocolate—orfortheirtextureorsubtlesweetness,Ihaveusedpistachiosforoverthirtyyears,acrosseverypossiblerangeofproducts,frombreadstobriochesandcakes.Inthisrecipe,thepistachiosaddanadditionallayeroftextureandastunningcontrastofcolourbut,ofcourse,ifyoudon’tlovethemlikeIdo,replacethemwithanyothertypeofnut,suchasmacadamias,walnutsorpeanuts.
Makesabout45
note:Allingredientsmustbeatroomtemperature.
125g(4½oz)blanchedalmonds
120g(4¼oz)pistachios
220g(7¾oz)darkchocolate(60–70%cocoasolids),chopped
150g(5½oz)unsaltedbutter,chopped
225g(8oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
½teaspoonfinesalt
5g(1/8oz)bakingpowder
220g(7¾oz)caster(superfine)sugar
75g(2¾oz)eggs(lightlybeat2eggstogether,thenmeasure)
LPreheattheovento175°C(345°F).Putthealmondsonabakingtrayandroastforabout10minutes,oruntilgolden.Removefromtheovenandcool.Putthealmondsandpistachiosinafoodprocessorandprocessuntilcoarselychopped,thensetaside.
LMeltthechocolateandbutterinabain-marie(seetips).Whenmelted,removethebowlfromtheheatandcooltoroomtemperature.
LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.
LSifttheflour,saltandbakingpowderintoabowlandsetaside.Putthesugarandeggsinalargebowl.Usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskthesugarandeggsuntilthickandpale,thenaddthecooledchocolatemixtureandfoldinwellwithawoodenspoon.Makesureyoureggsareatroomtemperature,ascoldeggsmaycauseyourchocolatetocrystalliseandformhardlumps.Foldinthesiftedflourmixture,thenaddthecrushednutsandcombinewell.
LShapeleveltablespoonsofthemixtureintoballsandplaceontothelinedtrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart(seetips),thenflattentheballswiththepalmofyourhandtoabout5cm(2in)indiameter.Bakeforabout10minutes,oruntilyoucanseewell-definedcracksallthewaytothecentreofthebiscuit.Coolonawirerack,thenstoreinanairtightcontainerforupto7days.
tips
It’simportantthatthedoughballsareallaboutthesamesize,sotheycookevenly.Iliketoweigheachdoughballtomakesuretheyareallthesamesize.
Thisdoughfreezeswell.Rollanyleft-overdoughintoalongcylinderabout5cm(2in)indiameter,coverinplasticwrapandfreeze.Touse,thawthecylindertoroomtemperatureandthencutinto3cm(1¼in)thickslicesandbakeasyouwouldfreshdough.
Bugnes
(Frenchvanillacrostoli)IhaveveryclearandhappymemoriesofwhenIwasasmallboy,sittingonthesideofthe
kitchentable,watchingmymotherandgrandmothermakingbugnes.Ilovedthewholeprocess,fromtheinitialdiscussionoverwhowasgoingtodowhat,totheactualmomentwhentheystartedcutting,rollingandthenbakingthedough.Bylateafternoon,whenalltheworkwasdone,thewholefamilywouldregroupandchatabouttheirdayoversomefreshlybakedbugnesandaglassortwoofrosé.MakingthosebiscuitsembodiedeverythingthatIloveaboutbaking.Itwasthecatalystthatbroughteveryonetogether,naturallyandeffortlessly.
Forthisrecipe,Ialwaysusethetraditionalmethodthatmygrandmothertaughtme.Thelittleextrabitofloveandcaregiventothedoughbymixingtheingredientsbyhandsomehowalwaysmakesthesebiscuitstasteevenbetter.
Makes50–60
5eggs
1tablespoonnaturalvanillaextractorvanillabeanpaste
3tablespoonsrum
500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
100g(3½oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)
1tablespooncaster(superfine)sugar
2teaspoonsbakingpowder
1teaspoonfinesalt
finelygratedzestof1lemon
250g(9oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,chopped
vegetableoil,fordeep-frying
pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,fordusting
LUsingafork,lightlybeattheeggs,vanillaandruminasmallbowl.Puttheflour,cornflour,sugar,bakingpowder,saltandlemonzestinamoundonyourworksurfaceandmakeawellinthecentre.Rubthebutterintothedryingredientsbypushingthebutterandflourmixturetogetherwiththepalmofyourhanduntilallthebutterisfullyincorporatedintothedryingredients.Thisprocess,calledsablage,isdesignedtokeepthedoughshortbyinsulatingtheglutenintheflourwiththefat(thispreventsitfromtougheninguponcetheeggsareadded).
LAddtheeggmixture,alittleatatime,andincorporatetheflouruntilthedoughcomestogether.(Alternatively,youcanfollowthesameprocessusinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment.)Flattenthedoughintoadisc,thencoverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.
LRolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout2mm(1/16in)thick.Youcanuseapastamachinetorollitout,ifyouprefer.Usingaparingknife,cutthedoughintorectanglesabout5cm(2in)wideand12cm(4½in)long,thenmakea3cm(1¼in)cutlengthwaysthroughthemiddleandfoldoneendoftherectanglethroughtheincision.Placeonbakingtrayslinedwithbakingpaper,coverwithaclothandsetasidefor10minutes.
LHeattheoilinadeep-fryerorlarge,heavy-basedsaucepanto190°C(375°F).Workinginbatches,cookthebugnesfor2minutesoneachside,oruntilgolden.Removeanddrainonpapertowel.Whencool,dustwithicingsugar.Storeinanairtightcontainerforupto7days.
technicaltip
Thecharacteristicbubbleson thesebiscuits, verymuch like those foundonSicilian cannoli, are createdby the additionof alcoholdirectly into thedough.Thealcoholistrappedunderathinlayerofdough,butevaporatesalmostinstantlyoncontactwiththehotoil,creatingthelunarlandscapeonyourbiscuit.Thebakingpowdertakeslongertoreleasecarbondioxide,whichconsequentlybecomestrappedbythedoughasitcooks,lighteningupthewholebiscuit.
BugnesaretypicallyfromLyonbuteveryregionhastheirownadaptationandnames.InProvencetheyarecalledmerveillesororeillettes—theyaresimilartobugnesbutmadewithoutthebakingpowderandaretypicallyflavouredwithorangeblossom.InNicetheyarecalledgansesNiçoises,andaremadewitholiveoilinsteadofbutter.
Navettesàl ’eaudefleurd ’oranger
(Orangeblossomnavettes)Let’sclosethischapterwithaspecialtyfromMarseille.NavettesareatypicalProvençalbiscuit
usuallyservedinMarseilleatLaChandeleur(Candlemas)—areligiouscelebrationheldinFebruary—insteadofthetraditionalcrêpesservedeverywhereelseinFrance.Theyaresmallandoblonginshape,withpointedendsandadeepcutdowntheirlength,andaremeanttoresembleasmallregionalfishingboatcalledapointu,meaning‘pointed’.Navettesaredeliciouslycrunchyandinfusedwithsubtlehintsofoliveoilandorangeblossom,andrank,alongwiththecroquant,asoneofmyfavouritebiscuits.
Makes32
500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
250g(9oz)caster(superfine)sugar
½teaspoonfinesalt
2eggs,lightlybeaten
120ml(4floz)oliveoil
finelygratedzestof1orange
1tablespoonorangeblossomwater
2eggs,extra
LCombinetheflour,sugarandsaltinabowlandmakeawellinthecentre.Addthelightlybeateneggs,oliveoil,orangezestandorangeblossomwater.Useyourhandstomixeverythingtogetherfor5minutes,oruntilsmooth.Coverwithaclothandsetasideatroomtemperaturefor1hour.Anyshortdoughs,suchasshortbreadsmadewithflourandaliquid(eggs),mustbelefttorestforatleastanhourtoallowtheglutenstrands(wheatprotein)torelaxandshorten.Failingtodothiswillinevitablyleadtoatoughandunpleasanttexture.
LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.Dividethedoughintofourportions,thenrolleachportionintoacylinderabout4cm(1½in)indiameter.Usingasmallsharpknife,cuteachcylinderintoeightpieces.Shapeeachpieceintoa10cm(4in)longroll,thenpinchtheendsslightlytogivethemataperedshape.Placeonthelinedtrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.
LUsingasharpparingknife,makeadeepincisionlengthwaysdownthemiddleofeachroll.Puttheextraeggsinasmallbowlandwhiskwithaforkuntilwellcombined.Lightlybrushthe
topsoftherollswiththeeggwash,thenplaceinthefridgetorestfor1hour.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Cookingonetrayatatime,bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor15–20minutes,oruntilthebasesareslightlybrownandthetopsaredarkblonde.Ifyourbiscuitsarebrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoilandcontinuebaking.Coolonthetrays,thenstoreinanairtightcontainerforupto2weeks.
AlotoftraditionalrecipesfromtheMediterraneanbasinuseoliveoilinsteadofbutter,becauseoiltendstobemoreresilientinhotclimatesthandairyproducts.Butterremainedthepreserveofregionswithcoolerclimatesuntiltheinventionofrefrigeration,afactthathashadahugeinfluenceonregionalspecialtiestheworldover.
Gâteauxetdesserts
‘Butwhenfromalong-distantpastnothingsubsists,afterthepeoplearedead,afterthethingsarebrokenandscattered,tasteandsmellalone…remain’
MARCELPROUST,REMEMBRANCEOFTHINGSPAST
Gâteauaufromage,saucemandarine-chocolat(Bakedcheesecakewithmandarin-chocolatesauce)
Gâteauxetdesserts
(Cakesanddesserts)
Bakingconjuresupdifferentthingsfordifferentpeople.Forsome,itisallaboutbreads—artisanbakerswho,likemagicians,transformahandfulofingredientsintoaseeminglyendlessarrayofwondrousgoldenbrownrollsandloaves—andforothersit’smoretodowithdeliciouscakes,finepâtisserieandfancydesserts.Forme,bakingismoreabouttheemotionsandconnectionsIhavewhenI’mcooking—thesimple,everydaypastries,breadsandcakesthatmymotherorgrandmothercooked,justastheirownmothersandgrandmothershaddone.WhenI’minmyownkitchen,myhandsandfacedustywithflour,Iamsooftenreconnectedwithscenesfrommychildhood,longagonow,ofhappytimesspentsittingatawoodentableinakitchenfilledwiththewonderfularomaofcakesbakingintheoven,whilemymotherchattedandbustledabout,andmydadandsisterlickedtheleft-overbatterfromthebowlsandspoons.
Allthecakesanddessertsincludedinthischapterhaveleftanimpressiononme,whetherit’sbecausetheyrekindledalong-lostmomentintime,orforthesimplefactthattheyarejustdelectable.Theonethingtheydohaveincommon,however,isthatthesearedeliciousandalmostfailproofrecipesthatyoucanachieveathomeusingsimple,readilyavailableingredients.
Gâteaumarocain
(FlourlessMoroccanorangeandalmondcake)UnlikethetraditionalMoroccanmeskouta(orangeandalmondcake),madewithflourandoil
andservedsoakedinorangejuiceandcinnamonsyrup,thisparticularcakedoesnotcontainanyflour,oilsorbutter,soifyouareglutenintolerantorcountingyourkilojoules,thenthisisforyou!
Iliketoservethiscakewithbloodorangesegments,somecandiedlemonslicesandasprinkleofchoppedalmonds.Theseflavoursworksobeautifullytogetherandit’savisualtreattoo,withthecolourspoppingofftheplate.
Serves12–14
note:Thisrecipemakestwocakes,sofeelfreetohalvetherecipeifyouprefer.
2oranges
600g(1lb5oz)almondmeal
15g(½oz)bakingpowder
430g(15¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar
6eggs
Todecorate
2bloodoranges,segmented
50g(1¾oz)rawalmonds,roastedandcoarselychopped
candiedlemonslices
ediblesmallflowers,suchasviolas
LPuttheorangesinasaucepanandcoverwithcoldwater.Coverwithalidandbringtotheboilovermediumheat,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor45minutes,oruntiltheorangesbegintocrackopen.Draintheorangesandsetasideuntilcool,thenbreakthemopenandremovetheseeds.Placetheunpeeledfruitinafoodprocessorandpuréeuntilsmooth.
LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Lightlygreaseandflourtwo8x25cm(3¼x10in)loaf(bar)tins.
LPutthealmondmealandbakingpowderinalargebowl,combinewellandsetaside.Using
anelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,whiskthesugarandeggsonhighspeedfor10minutes,oruntillightandfluffy.Addtheorangepuréeandstirwithawoodenspoonuntilwellcombined,thenpourthemixtureontothealmondmealmixtureandgentlyfoldinuntilcombined.
LPourthemixtureintothepreparedtinsuntilthree-quartersfull.Theoverallvolumeofmixturewillvaryslightlydependingonhowenthusiasticallyyoumixedthebatter,soonlyfillthetinsthree-quartersfullandbakeanyleft-overbatterinagreasedcoffeecuporramekin.Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenforabout35minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandleavetocoolbeforerefrigeratinginthetinsforatleast1hour.
LTounmould,placethecakesina200°C(400°F)ovenfor5minutes,theninvertontoaservingplate.Decoratethecakeswiththebloodorangesegments,choppedalmonds,someslicesofcandiedlemonandedibleflowers.Ifyoulike,makeaglaze(seetips)tobrushoverthecakebeforeaddingtheflowers.Thiscakewillremainsoftfor7daysifwrappedandstoredinthefridge.
tips
Youcanreplacetheorangeswithanyothercitrusfruit—trylime,lemon,pinkgrapefruitormandarin.Ifusinglimeorlemon,increasethesugarto600g(llb5oz)tobalancethetartness.
Toachievetheprofessionalshinyfinishyouseeonthetopofcakesinpâtisseries(andusedformanyofthecakesinthischapter,suchasthisone),boil100g(3½oz)apricotjamwith2tablespoonswaterfor1minuteandbrushtheglazeoverthecakeandfruit.Ifyoufindyourglazeistoothin,boilitforanadditionalminuteorso.
Gâteauaufromage,saucemandarine-chocolat
(Bakedcheesecakewithmandarin-chocolatesauce)Cheesecakeshavebeenaroundsincethediscoveryofcheese,whichitselfdatesbackover8000
yearsago,andeveryregionandcountryhasadoptedtheirownspecialtechniquesandpreferences.TheFrenchversionofcheesecakediffersfrommanyversionsinthatitismadewithasmallamountofmeringueandistraditionallyservedwithachocolatesauce,curdorfruitcoulis.InthisrecipeIhaveaddedsomeyoghurttobringasubtletouchofsourness,whichhelpstooffsetsomeofthesweetnessofthechocolate,andthemandarinworkswondersatbalancingtherichnessofthecheese.Allinall,thisisasophisticatedanddelicatedessertthatwouldn’tfeeloutofplaceservedanywhere,fromaquicksnackforbreakfast(yes,really!)toapetitfourservedatafancycocktailparty.
Serves8–10
200g(7oz)PâteSablée
460g(1lb)creamcheeseorneufchâtelcheese
200g(7oz)Greek-styleyoghurt
20g(¾oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)
220g(7¾oz)caster(superfine)sugar
½teaspoonfinesalt
3eggs
3eggyolks
2tablespoonsstrainedmandarinjuice
60ml(2floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
2tablespoonsfull-creammilk
finelygratedzestof2mandarins
2eggwhites
Mandarin-chocolatesauce
300ml(10½floz)strainedmandarinjuice
180g(6¼oz)darkchocolate(65%cocoasolids),chopped
180g(6¼oz)milkchocolate,chopped
2tablespoonshoney
finelygratedzestof1mandarin
60g(2¼oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature
Todecorate
driedcitruszest(optional)(seetips)
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasea25cm(10in)roundcaketinandlinethebaseandsidewithbakingpaper.Lineabakingtraywithbakingpaper.
LRolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil3–4mm(1/8in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughsticking.Usingthecaketinasatemplate,cutoutacircleofdough,thenplaceonthelinedtrayandbakefor15minutes,oruntilthepastrybeginstoturngoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocool.Trimaroundthecoldshortbreadbasewithasharpparingknifeandthencarefullydropitdownontothebaseofthepreparedcaketin.
LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthecreamcheese,yoghurt,cornflour,110g(33/4oz)ofthesugarandthesaltonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Scrapedownthesideofthebowl,thenaddtheeggs,eggyolksandmandarinjuiceandbeatuntilsmooth.Scrapedownthesideofthebowl,thenaddthecream,milkandmandarinzest.Increasethespeedtomediumandbeatuntilsmoothandcreamy.
LTransferthecreamcheesemixturetoalargebowl.Washthebowloftheelectricmixerthoroughlytoremoveanytracesoffat,thenusingthewhiskattachment,whisktheeggwhitesandremaining110g(33/4oz)ofsugaronthehighestspeeduntilthemeringueisthickandshiny.Reducethespeedtolowandcontinuewhiskingfor1–2minutes,thengentlyfoldthemeringueintothecreamcheesemixturewithaspatula.Takecarewhenhandlingtheeggwhitesatthispoint,oryouwillpushtheairoutofthemandendupwithadensecheesecake—simplyuseacircularfoldingmotionuntilcombined.
LReducetheoventemperatureto100°C(210°F).Pourthefillingintothetin,ontopofthepastrybase,andbakefor60–80minutes,oruntilthecakeisfirmandstopswobbling.Removefromtheovenandcooltoroomtemperature,thenrefrigerateforatleast30minutesbeforeremovingfromthetin.Todothis,coverthetopofthecheesecakewithapieceofbakingpaper,thenplaceaflattrayontop.Flipeverythingover,removethetin,thenflipthecheesecakeontoaservingplate.
LMeanwhile,tomakethemandarin-chocolatesauce,putthemandarinjuiceinasmall
saucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Putthedarkandmilkchocolates,honeyandmandarinzestinaheatproofbowl,then,whiskingcontinuously,graduallypourthehotjuiceintothebowl(addtheliquidintwoorthreebatches,sothechocolatedoesn’toverheat).Whiskuntilsmooth,thensetasideuntilcooledtoabout40°C(105°F),oruntiltepidtothetouch.Addthebutter,thenuseastickblendertoprocessuntilsmoothandwellcombined.
LJustbeforeserving,gentlyheatthesauceinabain-marieuntilwarm(seetips),oralternativelyheatitinamicrowaveforafewseconds,buttakecarethatitdoesn’treachanywherenearboilingpointorthechocolatewillburn.Toserve,drizzlethemandarin-chocolatesauceoverthecheesecakeandsprinklewithsomedriedcitruszest,ifusing.
tips
Cheesecakesshouldbeservedatroomtemperature,asthisallowsthefattomeltquickerinthemouth,dramaticallyimprovingboththetextureandflavour.
Tomakedriedzestfordecoration,useamicroplaneoragratertofinelygratethezestof4mandarins,oranges,lemonsorlimes.Bring500ml(17floz)waterand1teaspoonsalttotheboilinasmallsaucepanoverhighheat,thenaddthegratedzest.Blanchfor3–4minutes,thenstrainthroughafinesieveandpatdrywithpapertowel.Spreadontoatraylinedwithbakingpaperandbakeina80°C(175°F)ovenfor1hour,oruntilcompletelydry.Cool,thenstoreinanairtightcontainerforupto1month.
Whilemostofmycommentsabouttherecipesinthisbookseemtoindicatethatflavourandtastearemymostpressingconcerns(probablybecausetheyare),rememberthatalotofingredientsusedinbakingarehighinsaturatedfat.Idon’tmeantowarnyouoffsaturatedfats;rather,Iwanttopointoutthatbiscuitsandcakesaremeantnottofeedyou,butsimplytolivenyourdayalittle,eatenasasmalltreatafteramealorwithacupofteaorcoffeeforafternoontea.Inmyopinion,itisfarbettertoreduceyourportionsizeinsteadofcompromisingonthetasteofyourcakesbyusingsubstandardingredientssuchasmargarineorlow-fatdairyproducts.
Madeleines
ItwouldbeunusualtofindabookonFrenchbakingthatdidn’tincludeamadeleineinitslistofrecipes.IrememberasachildhowIdrooledoverthoselittlescallopedbuttercakesasIlookedatthemlonginglythroughthewindowofmylocalpâtisserie,neverhavingquiteenoughmoneytoaffordtobuyoneonmydailytriptoschool.Whilethisprovidedmyfirstlessoninfinancialmanagement,italsomademerealisethatthemoreyoulongforsomethingthemoredeliciousittastes!
Reassuringly,everyoneelseseemstohavethesameaffinityasIdoforthesesmalleighteenth-centurycakes.Mostfamously,MarcelProustinhismuch-heraldednovelRemembranceofThingsPastdescribesbeautifullyhisfirsttasteofamadeleine:‘NosoonerhadthewarmliquidmixedwiththecrumbstouchedmypalatethanashiverranthroughmeandIstopped,intentupontheextraordinarythingthatwashappeningtome.’
Makesabout24
note:ForthisrecipeIstronglyrecommendusingametalmadeleinetrayratherthanasiliconemould,asthe
metaltransferstheheatalotfasterandwillhelpcreatethecharacteristicball-shapedtop.
120g(4¼oz)unsaltedbutter
135g(4¾oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
4g(1/8oz)bakingpowder
3eggs
160g(5¾oz)caster(superfine)sugar
1teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzest
3teaspoonsvegetableoil
LMeltthebutterinasmallsaucepanoverlowheat,thenremovefromtheheatandleavetocooluntiltepid.
LSifttogethertheflourandbakingpowder.Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,beattheeggs,sugarandlemonzestuntillightandfluffy.Gentlyfoldinthemeltedbutterandtheoil,thenfoldintheflourmixture.Transfertoabowl,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast3hours,orovernightforabetterresult.
LPreheattheovento220°C(430°F).Greaseandlightlyflouramadeleinetray.Igenerallyuseonewithholesthatmeasureabout7.5x5cm(3x2in)(seetip).Filltheholesthree-quartersfull
withbatter.Reducetheoventemperatureto190°C(375°F),thenplacethetrayonthebottomshelfoftheovenandbakefor8minutes.Removethecakesfromthetraywhilestillwarm.Whenthetrayiscool,wipeclean,thengreaseandlightlyflourthetrayagainandrepeatwiththeremainingbatter.Madeleinesarebesteatenthedaytheyarebaked,preferablystraightoutoftheoven.
tip
Whileatypicalmadeleinealwayscomesinanoval,scallopedshape,thebatterinthisrecipeistheheroandnottheshape.Feelfreetouseindividualcaketinsinothershapes,providingtheyarenodeeperthanabout5cm(2in).Ifyoudouseamadeleinetray,notethattheyareavailableinsmallandlargesizes.Alternatively,realscallopshellscanwork,buttheyneedtobegreasedwithbutterandflouredbeforeuse.
Financiersauxframboisesetàlanoixdecoco
(Raspberryandcoconutfriands)Althoughbetterknownasalmondfriands,thesepopularlittlecakesareactuallycalled
financiers,so-namedbecauseoftheirgoldingotshape.Interestingly,itisthoughtthatthefinancierwasinspiredbyasmallcakecalledvisitandine,namedaftertheCatholicnunswhoinventedthem.Thenunspaintedwithtempurapaint,whichtheymadefromeggyolks,andtherecipewastheperfectsolutionforwhattodowithalltheleft-overeggwhites.However,thecake’sdistinctiveingotshapeandcurrentnamewastheworkofachefcalledLasne,whohadashopinthefinancialdistrictofParis,andbakedtheminthisshapeasagimmicktoenticethelocaltraders.
WhilethefinanciercontinuestobebakedasasmallrectangleinFrance,itisnowsoldinallshapesandenhancedbyamultitudeofflavours.Thisversionismyfavourite;thetartnessoftheraspberriesprovidestheperfectfoilfortherichnessofthecake,andthecoconutbringsalittlebitoftexture.Iconsiderthemasthemuffin’ssophisticatedcousin—richer,softerandwithamorerefinedtexture.Trythemonceandyouwillneverlookback!
Makes20
note:Alldryingredientsmustbeatroomtemperature.Startthisrecipeadayahead.
200g(7oz)almondmeal
300g(10½oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar
150g(5½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
250g(9oz)eggwhites(about8–9)
200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter
250g(9oz)raspberries,freshorfrozenwhole
100g(3½oz)flakedcoconut
LPutthealmondmeal,icingsugarandflourinabowlandcombinewell.Usingahand-heldwhisk,lightlywhisktheeggwhitesuntilfoamy;donotwhisktheeggwhitestoomuchoryourcakeswillcollapseduringbaking.Foldtheeggwhitesintothealmondmealmixtureuntiljustcombined.Rememberthatanybattercontainingflour(andthereforegluten)willtoughenupwithexcessivemixing,sodon’tbetemptedtopreparethisusinganelectricmixer.
LPutthebutterinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Removefromtheheatassoonasyounoticethebutterhasstartedtobrown—thisisbeurrenoisette.Mixing
continuously,pourthehotbutterthroughasieveintoyourbatterandmixuntilcombinedwell(seetips).Transfertoasmallbowl,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.
LPreheattheovento200°C(400°F).Lightlygreaseandflour20financiermouldsoruse125ml(4floz)friandorbriochetins.Forthebestresults,usesteeloraluminiummoulds,andwhiletheshapeisentirelyuptoyou,thisrecipeisdesignedtobebakedinindividualcakemoulds.
LDividethebatteramongthepreparedmoulds.Placeafewraspberriesandsprinklesomecoconutoverthetopofeachone.Bakefor15–20minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofacakecomesoutclean.Placeonawireracktocoolalittle,thenremovefromthemoulds.Likemostcakes,thesearebesteatenthedaytheyarebaked.
tips
Toavoidlumpsforminginthebatterwhenyouaddthehotbutter,it’simportantthatyouringredients(almonds,sugar,flourandeggs)areatroomtemperaturebeforeyoustart.
Althoughraspberriesprovideagoodbalanceof tartness in thesecakes, feel free touseotheracidic fruit suchaspassionfruit,blackcurrantsorevenchoppedgrannysmithapples.
Fondantauchocolatetauxnoix
(Chocolateandwalnutbutterfudgecake)IcameupwiththisrecipeintheearlyyearsofmyapprenticeshipatPâtisseriePasquet,in
Marseille,longbeforeIwasawareoftheexistenceoffudges,andwhileIwasverypleasedwithmyeffort,theheadchefwasratherunderwhelmed.Hesaiditwastoodensetobeagoodcakeandtoosofttobeabiscuitanddescribeditasunsophisticated,butIwasquietlyproudofmyconcoction.Itmayhavebeenaroughdiamond,butithadawonderfullysoft,butteryfleshenhancedbythetextureofthewalnuts,andjusttherightamountofsweetness.Itendedupbeingoneofourbest-selling‘sortofcakes’.
Serves12–14
9eggyolks
135g(4¾oz)raw(demerara)sugar
75g(2¾oz)honey
345g(12oz)caster(superfine)sugar
180g(6¼oz)milkchocolate(35–40%cocoasolids),chopped
450g(1lb)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,chopped
4eggwhites
250g(9oz)walnuts,coarselychopped
finelygratedzestof1lemon
180g(6¼oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
Caramel
70ml(2¼floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
140g(5oz)caster(superfine)sugar
100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter,chopped
Todecorate
sliveredpistachios
walnuts,roastedandroughlychopped
pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,unsifted
LTomakethecaramel,putthecreaminasaucepanovermediumheatandbringtojustbelowtheboil.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.Putthesugarand2tablespoonswaterinamediumheavy-basedsaucepan(seetip).Cookovermediumheat,withoutstirring,untilthesugarcaramelisestogoldenbrown.Stirringcontinuously,carefullypourinthewarmcream(beextremelycarefulwhenyoudothis,astherewillbealotofveryhotsteam).Stirfor1minute,thenremovefromtheheat.Addthebutterandstiruntilwellcombined.Usingastickblender,emulsifythecarameluntilsmoothandshiny.Cooltoroomtemperature.
LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,beattheeggyolks,rawsugar,honeyand135g(43/4oz)ofcastersugaronhighspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntillightandcreamy.Transferthemixturetoamediumbowl.
LMeanwhile,meltthechocolateinabain-marie(seetips).Removefromtheheat,addthebutterandstirwithawoodenspoonuntilsmoothandwellcombined,thensetaside.
LPreheattheovento140°C(285°F).Lightlygreasetwo8x25cm(3¼x10in)loaf(bar)tinsandlinethebaseandsideswithbakingpaper.
LPuttheeggwhitesinthecleanbowloftheelectricmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachmentandwhiskonthehighestspeeduntilsoftpeaksform.Becarefulnottooverwhisktheeggwhitesortheywillsplit(seetip).Reducethespeedtolow,thengraduallyaddtheremaining210g(7½oz)ofcastersugarandcontinuemixingonlowspeedfor2minutes,oruntilthemeringueisthickandglossy.Usingarubberspatula,foldthechocolateandbuttermixture,walnutsandlemonzestintothemeringueuntiljustcombined.Foldintheeggyolkmixture,thentheflouruntilwellcombined.
LDividethemixturebetweenthepreparedtinsandbakefor40minutes,orjustuntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofacakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandsetasideinthetinfor1hour.Invertthetinsontoseparateservingplates,thenpourhalfthesoftcarameloverthetopofeachloaf.Sprinklewiththepistachios,walnutsandicingsugar.Thiscakeisdeliciousservedcoldwithascoopofmascarponeandaglassoffortifiedwine.
tip
Whencookingcaramel,itisbesttouseamedium-sizedpan,eventhoughyouareonlyusingasmallamountofsugarandwater.Thisallowsthesteamtoescapewhenthecoolerliquidisaddedtothewarmcaramel.Asthesugarstartstocaramelise,useapastrybrushdippedincoldwatertocleanoffanysugarcrystalsonthesideofthepan.
Muffinscaramel-banane
(Bananaandcaramelmuffins)Youmightbesurprisedtoseeamuffinrecipeinthisbook.Theyarenotsomethingyou’dsee
veryofteninaFrenchbakery,butIhaveincludedthemherebecausetheyareincrediblyquickandeasytomakeandalmostfailproof—theperfectrecipeforbuddingbakers.MuffinscanbeamazinglyversatileandIloveexperimentingwithnewflavoursandtextures.Thisbananaandcaramelversionisoneofmyfavourites,butfeelfreetousethisrecipeasabaseandletyourimaginationrunwild.Youcouldtrysomethingadventurous,suchasapricotandverbena,orbitterchocolatewithcoffeeandcardamom,orifyouprefersomethingalittlemoreconservative,tryraspberriesandcoconut.
Makes24
3mediumbananas
juiceof1lemon
200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter
200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar
Batter
660g(1lb7oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
540g(1lb3oz)caster(superfine)sugar
2½teaspoonsfinesalt
18g(¾oz)bakingpowder
4eggs
540ml(18¼floz)full-creammilk
330ml(11¼floz)vegetableoil
LCutthebananasinto1cm(½in)thickslicesandplaceinabowl.Addthelemonjuice,tosstocoatwell,thensetaside(seetip).
LPutthebutterandsugarinalargefryingpanoverhighheatandcookuntilmelted.Strainthebananasoverabowlandreservethelemonjuice,thenplacethebananaslicesinasinglelayerinthepanwiththemeltedbutterandsugar.Reducetheheattomediumandcookfor2–3minutes,oruntilthesugarcaramelises.Turnthebananasinthecarameluntilbothsidesaregolden,then
removefromthepanandplaceinabowl.Addthereservedlemonjuicetothecaramelandcombinewell,thentransfertoaheatproofbowl.Coverthetwobowlscontainingthebananasandcaramel,thenrefrigeratefor1hour,oruntilcold.
LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Linetwo12-holestandardmuffintinswithpapercasesorsquaresofbakingpaper.
LTomakethebatter,useanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachmentonlowspeedtocombinetheflour,sugar,saltandbakingpowder.Lightlybeattheeggs,milkandoilinabowluntilwellcombined.Withthemotorrunning,graduallyaddtheeggmixturetothedrymixture,scrapingdownthesideofthebowlandthepaddlesasyougo.Don’taddtoomuchliquidatonceoryouwillendupwithlumps.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast1hourbeforeusing.
LHalf-fillthepapercaseswiththebatter.Addafewslicesofbananaandateaspoonofcarameltoeach,thentopupwithenoughbattertocomeabout1cm(½in)fromthetopofthecases.Topwithafewmoreslicesofbananaandanotherteaspoonofcaramel,thenbakefor40minutes,oruntilaskewercomesoutcleanwheninsertedintothecentreofamuffin.Leavetocoolinthetinfor5minutes,thenremovetoawirerack.
technicaltip
Lemonjuiceisaddedtotheslicedbananastostopthemfrombrowning(oxidising).Thisiscausedbyachemicalprocesscalled‘enzymaticbrowning’,wheretheenzymesinthefruitreacttothepresenceofoxygen.ThisprocesscanbesloweddownbyreducingthepHlevelofthefruitbyaddinganacid.Inbakingweusuallyusecitrusfruit(theyhaveahighcontentofascorbicandcitricacid),notonlytoslowoxidationbutbecausetheirtartflavourworksverywellatreducingtheperceivedtasteofsweetness.Insavourycookingorwhenanacidictasteisundesirable,soaktheslicedfruitorvegetableincoldwatertoreducetheirexposuretooxygen.
Diplomate
(Breadandbutterpudding)Ifyouhavebeenexperimentingwithbakingcroissants,briochesorbreadsandyounowhave
morethanyouknowwhattodowith,thediplomateistheanswertoyourdilemma.Everyday,everybakeraroundtheplanetfacestheproblemofdecidinghowmanyviennoiserietheyneedtoproduce:notenoughandthecustomerswillgetupset,toomanyandthewastagecostswillsoonamounttoasmallfortune.Nowthatwearen’tallowedtogiveawayourleft-overstockbecauseofoverzealousregulations,theonlychoiceleftistofindaningeniousmethodtorecyclethem.OverthecourseofmycareerIhaveseenitall,fromthesurprisinglytastyrumballs,oftenmadewithleft-overcakeorpastries,tocuttingalmondmealwithshreddedcroissantsand,ofcourse,thedeliciouslyrusticandearthybreadandbutterpudding.
Serves6
500g(1lb2oz)day-oldcroissantsand/orbrioches
200g(7oz)sultanas(goldenraisins)
1.5litres(52floz)full-creammilk
150g(5½oz)unsaltedbutter
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways
12eggs
250g(9oz)caster(superfine)sugar
50ml(1¾floz)rum
200g(7oz)apricotjam,forglazing
LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Lightlygreasea12x25cm(4½x10in)rectangularcaketin,thenlinethebaseandsideswithbakingpaper.
LSlicethecroissants(and/orbrioches)into1cm(½in)thickslicesandarrangealayerofpastriessnuglyoverthebaseofthepreparedtin.Toachieveabettervisualimpact,laythepastriessothelightside(theinsideofthepastry)isfacingdown.Sprinklesomeofthesultanasoverthetop,thencontinuestackingandlayeringtheremainingpastriesandsultanas.
LPutthemilk,butterandvanillabeansinasaucepanovermediumheat.Assoonasthesurfacebeginstoshimmer,removefromtheheat,coverwithalidandsetaside.Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,beattheeggsandsugartogetheruntilacreamy,pale
yellowbatterforms,thenwhiskintherum.Removethevanillabeansfromthehotmilkandreserve.Whiskingcontinuouslyonlowspeed,graduallyaddthehotmilktotheeggmixture—don’tpourtoofastorthesuddenriseintemperaturemightcooktheeggsandcurdleyourcustard.Scrapetheseedsoutofthevanillabeansintothecustardandwhiskuntilevenlydispersed.
LPourthecustardoverthecroissantsuntilthemixturereachesthetopofthetin.Setasideforafewminutes,thenuseyourfingertipstopunchholesthroughthepastries,toallowthecustardtosoakintothem.Continuepouringinthecustardinsmalladditionsuntilthepastriesfeelsoft.
LBakefor45minutes,oruntilaparingknifeinsertedintothepuddingcomesoutclean.Removefromtheoven,setasidetocoolfor30minutes,thencoverandrefrigeratefor2hours.Removefromthefridgeanduseaserratedknifetoremoveanyburntordried-uppastryfromthetop.Todothis,runtheknifestraightovertheedgesofthetin,fromonesideallthewaytotheother.Placeaservingplateoverthetinandflipthepuddingover,thenremovethetinandbakingpaper.
LTomakeaglaze,putthejamand2tablespoonswaterinasmallsaucepanandstirovermediumheatuntilmeltedandsmooth.Brushtheglazeoverthepudding.Servewarmwithfreshberriesandyoghurtorthick(double/heavy)cream.Aswithmanycustardcakesandpuddings,thiscanbekeptforupto1weekinthefridgeandtastesdeliciousservedeithercoldorwarmedina180°C(350°F)ovenfor5minutes.
Ardéchoisàlacrèmedemarronsetganacheaucaramelsalé
(Chestnutcakewithsaltedcaramelganache)Tofullyappreciatethiscake,youneedtotakeitbacktoitsoriginalsettingintheArdèchearea,
intheRhône-Alpesregion.Thisregionisfamedforitslocalproduce,greenpasturesandrichcuisine—thinkquenelles,gratindauphinois,cheesefondue,froglegs,polentarabbitstew,rissolessavoyardes(puffpastryturnoverswithapearfilling)and,ofcourse,winesandcheeses.FromPaulBocusetotheTroisgrosbrothers,itishometosomeofthemostacclaimedMichelin-starredrestaurantsandis,withoutadoubt,thegastronomiccapitalofFrance.
Asithappens,thewholematernalsideofmyfamilyoriginatesandstilllivesinthisamazingregion.EverytimeIreturntoFrancetovisitmyauntanduncleinabeautifulmedievalvillagecalledCrémieu,IaminvariablytreatedtoabanquetofsomeofthebesttraditionalFrenchfoodandwinesimaginable,fromthemostoutrageouslyrichgratinstoanarrayofincrediblysubtlecheeses.
Now,backtoourchestnutandcaramelcake.Yes,itisadecadentcakewithitsbuttery,earthy,slightlychewycrumbandbitterchocolateglaze,butitispossiblyoneofthebestdessertstoenjoywithfriendsandfamilyasyousitaroundadiningtableinfrontofafireonalong,coldwinter’snight,solvingalloftheworld’sproblems.
Serves10
500g(1lb2oz)tinnedsweetenedchestnutcream(crèmedemarrons),atroomtemperature
100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature
4eggs
2eggyolks
40ml(1¼floz)rum
3tablespoonshoney
100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour,sifted
1teaspoonbakingpowder
100g(3½oz)candiedchestnuts(marronsglacés),coarselychopped
80g(2¾oz)rawalmonds,coarselychopped
Saltedcaramelganache
80ml(2¾floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
80g(2¾oz)caster(superfine)sugar
100g(3½oz)darkchocolate(75%minimumcocoasolids),chopped
generouspinchoffleurdeselorothersaltflakes
LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Lightlygreasea25cm(10in)roundcaketin.
LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthechestnutcreamandbutteronmediumspeedfor3–4minutes,oruntilsmoothandcreamy.Boththechestnutcreamandbuttermustbeatroomtemperature,orthebutterwillhardenandwon’temulsifyproperlywiththechestnutcream.Addtheeggsandeggyolks,oneatatime,allowingeachadditiontobeincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext.Addtherumandhoney,thenincreasethespeedtohighandbeatforanother5minutes,oruntillightandfluffy.Removethebowlfromthemachine,thenfoldinthesiftedflour,bakingpowder,candiedchestnutsandalmondsuntiljustcombined.Don’tbetemptedtomixthebattertoomuchoncetheflourhasbeenadded,orthewaterinthemixturewilldeveloptheglutenintheflour,resultinginacakewithatough,elasticcrumb.
LPourthemixtureintothepreparedcaketin.Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor40minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolbeforeremovingfromthetin.
LTomakethesaltedcaramelganache,putthecreaminasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.Putthesugarinaheavy-basedsaucepanandcookovermediumheat,stirringcontinuouslywithawoodenspoon.Whenthesugarbeginstocaramelise,reducetheheattolowandcontinuecookinguntilthecaramelbeginstofoamandsmoke.Atthisstage,increasetheheattohigh,thenslowlypourthewarmcreamontothecaramel.Beverycarefulwhenyoudothis,asthedifferenceintemperaturewillcreatealotofhotsteam,sokeepyourhandsasfarawayasyoucanfromthecaramel.Oncewellcombined,removefromtheheat.
LPutthechocolateinasmallheatproofbowl.Pourthehotcarameloverthechocolate,stirringcontinuously,andcombinewell.Usingahand-heldstickblender,processuntilsmoothandshiny,thenstirinthesalt.
LPlacethecakeonaflatservingplateandpourthechocolateganacheoverthetop,startingfromthemiddleandmakingyourwaytotheside.Ifyoulike,decoratewithchocolatecurlsorcandiedchestnuts.ThiscakeisdeliciouswithaglassofChampagneorsweetwine.
tip
Itisimportantthatyouusechocolatewithahighpercentageofcocoa(lesssugar)toreducethesweetnessofthesaltedcaramelganache.Thesaltwill
balancethebitternessofboththeburntcaramelandchocolate.
Quatre-quartsàlapoireetauxdates
(Dateandpearpoundcakes)Quatre-quarts(literallymeaning‘four-quarters’)istheFrenchversionofapoundcake,
traditionallymadebymixingthesameamountofthefourmainingredients:flour,eggs,sugarandbutter.Thequatre-quarts,alongwithmanyotherclassicdesserts,suchasParis–Brest,éclairsandmacarons,haveenjoyedaresurgenceinpopularityoverthelastdecadeandcannowbefoundinthebestcakeshopsaroundtheglobe.Whilequatre-quartsremainrusticinappearance,theyarenowcustomisedwithanalmostinfinitearrayofaddedflavoursandtextures.
Serves10–12
200g(7oz)pitteddates,finelychopped
100g(3½oz)sultanas(goldenraisins)
300g(10½oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature
300g(10½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
110g(3¾oz)Greek-styleyoghurt
2tablespoonshoney
7eggs
400g(14oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
10g(¼oz)bakingpowder
100ml(3½floz)rum
Poachedpear
1pear,preferablywilliams(bartlett)orbeurrebosc
350g(12oz)caster(superfine)sugar
2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways
Todecorate
sliveredpistachios
flakedalmonds
choppedglacécherries
LPutthedatesandsultanasinabowl,coverwithwarmwaterandsoakfor1hour.
LMeanwhile,tomakethepoachedpear,peelthepearandsetaside.Putthesugar,cinnamon,vanillabeansand1litre(35floz)waterinasaucepanandbringtotheboilovermediumheat.Addthepearandsimmerfor15minutes,oruntiltenderbutstillfirmtothebite.Tocheckifthepeariscooked,insertaparingknifeintothefruit;thefleshshouldbesoftforabout1cm(½in)andthenfirmtothecore.Removefromtheheatandleavethepearinthesyrupuntilcool.Drainthepear,reservingthesyrup.Patdrywithpapertowel,thenhalveandcorethepearandcutinto1cm(½in)pieces.
LPreheattheovento160°C(320°F).Lightlygreaseandflourthree8x15cm(3¼x6in)caketinsorusetwo18cm(7in)roundtinsifyouprefer.
LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthebutter,sugar,yoghurtandhoneyuntillightandfluffy.Reducethespeedtolow,thenaddtheeggsoneatatimeandbeatuntilwellcombined.Sifttheflourandbakingpowdertogether,thenaddtothebatterinonego.Drainthedatesandsultanas;addthedrainedfruitandtherumtothebatterandbeatonlowspeeduntiljustcombined.
LHalf-fillthepreparedtinswiththebatter,arrangethree-quartersofthepearsoverthetop,thentopwiththeremainingbatter.Bakefor10minutes,thenopentheovendoorand,usingalightlyoiledknife,cutalinelengthwaysdownthetopofeachcake—thiswillcontrolthecrackingintoanice,straightline.Bakeforanother1hour,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofacakecomesoutclean.
LRemovethecakesfromtheoven,brushagenerousamountofthepoachingsyrupoverthetop,thenturnthehotcakesoutofthetinsontoawireracktocool.Whencool,decoratewiththeremainingpears,thepistachios,almondsandglacécherries.
Gâteauàl ’huiled ’olive,aucitronconfitetàlalavande
(Oliveoilcakewithcandiedlemonsandlavender)Gâteauàl’huile,yoghurtcake,quatre-quarts…therearedozensofvariationsofwhatare
commonlyknownaspoundcakes,allwiththeirownoriginsandcharacteristics.Thisversionhasgrownexponentiallyinpopularitylargelyduetoincreasedconcernsaboutobesityandcardiovasculardisease.Withnobutter,andthereforenocholesterol,thiscake—longignoredbybakersanywherenorthoftheMediterraneanbasin—seemstohavebecomeaperfect‘guilt-free’indulgence.
Serves8
note:Startthisrecipeadayahead.200g(7oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
1teaspoonbakingpowder
150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
½teaspoonfinesalt
2eggs
100ml(3½floz)full-creammilk
100ml(3½floz)virginoliveoil
50ml(1¾floz)LimoncelloorGrandMarnier
lavenderessence,totaste
Candiedlemons
500g(1lb2oz)caster(superfine)sugar
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways
3lemons,cutinto3mm(1/8in)slices
LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,combinetheflour,bakingpowder,sugarandsaltonlowspeed.Lightlybeattheeggs,milk,oliveoilandalcoholinabowluntilcombined.Withthemotorrunning,graduallyaddtheeggmixturetothedrymixture,scrapingdownthesideofthebowlasyougo.Oncecombined,increasethespeedtohighandbeatforanother2–3minutes,oruntilemulsified.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor2hours.
LMeanwhile,tomakethecandiedlemons,put500ml(17floz)water,thesugarandvanillabeansinasaucepanandbringtotheboilovermediumheat.Addtheslicedlemons,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor10minutes,oruntilthelemonskinistranslucentandsoft.Removefromtheheat,transfertoaheatproofbowlandcoverimmediatelywithplasticwrap.Setasideuntilcool,thenrefrigerateovernight.
LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Lightlygreaseandfloura25cm(10in)roundora10x25cm(4x10in)rectangularcaketin.Drainthelemonslices,reservingthesyrupandvanillabeans.Arrangesomeofthecandiedlemonslicesinaregularpatterntocoverthebaseofthepreparedtin.Coarselychoptheremaininglemons.
LRemovethebatterfromthefridgeandstirin80g(23/4oz)ofthechoppedlemonsandafewdropsoflavenderessence,totaste.Theamountwillvarydependingonthetypeofessenceyouhavebutyouneedtobesparingwithessencesingeneral;theyaremeanttoaddagentlefloraltouch—toomuchwillruinthecake.
LPourthebatteroverthelemonslices,thenbakefor30minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecakecomesoutclean.Removethetinfromtheovenandpour100ml(3½floz)ofreservedlemonsyrupoverthetopofthecake.Refrigerateimmediatelyforatleast3hours.Tounmould,placethecakeina200°C(400°F)ovenfor5minutes,theninvertontoaservingplate.Thecakeisbesteatenfreshlybaked,althoughittastesdeliciousreheatedthedayafter.
Osmosisisaprocesswherebyalightsolvent(inthiscase,waterandessences)naturallymovesthroughasemipermeablemembraneintoasolventwithahigherdensity(thethicksugarsyrup)untileachsolventreachesthesamedensity.Intheinstanceofourcandiedlemons,theosmosismovementpushestheoilandwateroutofthelemonthroughthepectinmembraneoftheskin,andisreplacedbythethickersyrup(reverseosmosis).Whencandyingwholefruit,thisprocessisrepeatedseveraltimeswithsyrupofever-increasingdensity(moresugar).
SouffléàlaChartreuseetcoulisdefraisespoivrées
SouffléàlaChartreuseetcoulisdefraisespoivrées
(Chartreusesouffléwithpepperedstrawberrycoulis)Thiswouldn’tbeatrueFrenchcookbookifitdidn’tincludeatleastonesoufflérecipe.Thisis
quiteawonderfulandimpressive-lookingdessertandIclearlyrememberhowdazzledIwaswhenIfirstlaideyesonthisfluffy,wondrousconcoction.MyparentstookmysisterandmetotheNegresco,oneofthemosticonicandluxurioushotelsontheCôted’Azur.Itwasthemid-seventiesandsoufflésandbombeAlaskareignedsupreme.Iremembersittinginmyvelvet-coveredchair,underahugecrystalcandelabra,whenthewaitergentlyrestedasouffléinfrontofme.Iwasliterallystunned;itwassohighandfluffy—I’dneverseenanythinglikeit.
EvennowthatIunderstandthechemistrybehinditall,makingasouffléremainsatrulymagnificentjugglingact,needingjusttherightbalancebetweenstarchandeggstotrapthesteamnecessaryforittoriseandset,andjusttherighttemperaturesotheeggsdon’tcoagulatetoofast.Butdon’tbenervous;themethodisactuallyverysimpleandalmostfailproofifyoufollowtherecipecarefully.
Serves2
meltedunsaltedbutter,forgreasing
caster(superfine)sugar,fordusting
2eggwhites
100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
Custardbase
250ml(9floz)full-creammilk
1vanillabean,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped
55g(2oz)caster(superfine)sugar
3eggyolks
25g(1oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
15ml(½floz)Chartreuseliqueur
Strawberrycoulis
50g(1¾oz)caster(superfine)sugar
150g(5½oz)strawberries,hulledandchopped
½teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzest1/8teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper
LUsingapastrybrush,lightlygreasetwo250ml(9floz)ramekinsorovenproofcoffeecupswithmeltedbutter,makingsurethatthebrushstrokesgovertically,fromthebottomtothetopofthedish,tohelpthesoufflétorise.Spoonalittlesugarintoeachramekin,turningthedisharoundsothatthesugarcoatstheentiresurface.Tiptheramekinsupsidedownandtapthemtoremoveanyexcesssugar.Placetheramekinsonabakingtrayandsetasideatroomtemperature.
LTomakethecustardbase,putthemilk,vanillabeanandseedsinasaucepanandbringtotheboil,thenremovefromtheheat,pourintoabowlandsetasidetocoolfor1–2minutes.
LMeanwhile,putthesugarand2eggyolksinabowl.Usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskthesugarandeggyolksfor2–3minutes,oruntillightandcreamy,thenwhiskintheflouruntilsmooth.Whiskingcontinuously,graduallyaddthewarmmilkandwhiskuntilwellcombined.Pourthemixtureintoasaucepanandwhiskcontinuouslyovermediumheatuntilthemixturecomestotheboilandisthickandsmooth.Removefromtheheatandwhiskintheliqueur,thensetasidefor5minutestocoolalittlebeforewhiskinginthefinaleggyolk(don’taddittoosoonoritwillcurdle).Coverthebowlwithadampclothandsetaside.
LTomakethestrawberrycoulis,putthesugarand100ml(3½floz)waterinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Addthechoppedstrawberries,lemonzestandpepper,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor2minutes.Removefromtheheatandtransfertoasmallbowlandwhilestillhot,coverwithplasticwrapandsetasidetocool.Usingastickblenderorfoodprocessor,puréethecoulisuntilsmooth,thentransfertoasqueezebottleorpouringjug.Refrigerateuntilneeded.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Placetheeggwhitesinaspotlesslycleanbowl.Usingahand-heldwhisk(Istronglyrecommendyouwhisktheeggwhitesbyhandtoavoidsplittingtheeggs—seetip),whisktheeggwhitesuntilfoamyandsoft,thengraduallyaddthesugarandwhiskuntilthemeringueformsstiffpeaks.Thesimplestwaytocheckifthemeringueisreadyistoflipthebowlupsidedown.Ifthemeringuedoesn’tdroponyourhead,itisready!Abetterwaytocheckthisistousethewhisktoliftupasmallamountofmeringue;ifitcreatesastiffpeak,itisready.
LUsingalargespatula,foldthemeringueintothecooledcustardinthreeorfourbatches.Afoldingmotionmeansthatyougentlyrotateyourspatulafromthebottomtothetopofthemix.Neverwhackthespatulafromsidetosideorthemixturewillreleasealltheairandwon’triseduringbaking.
LFillthesugar-dustedramekinsallthewaytothetop,makingsurethatnomixturetouchestherim,asthisexposedmixturewillcookinstantlyandstopthesouffléfromrisingevenly.Bakefor10–12minutes,oruntilthetopsaregolden.Don’tbetemptedtoopentheovendoorduringbaking,asyouneedtobuildupsteaminsidetheovenforyoursoufflétoriseproperly.Assoonastheyarecooked,removefromtheovenandpokea2cm(3/4in)holethroughthetop.Pour1tablespoonofcoulisintoeachholeandserveimmediately.
technicaltip
Thepressurepointwhenmakingasouffléisthemeringue.Ifyouunderwhiptheeggs,thesouffléwillnotrise;overwhipthemandyouwillendupwithagrainyandwetmess.Togetitrightyoumustfirstunderstandthatameringuerisesbytheactofpushingairintotheelasticeggprotein(albumen).Asyouwhisk,theproteinmoleculesweavetogether,trappingmoreandmorebubblesofair,creatingashinyelasticfoam.However,thosemoleculescanonlystretchsofar.Overmixingwillcausetheeggsto‘split’or,technicallyspeaking,theproteinstrandswillseparateandlosetheirabilitytoretaintheirwater,inwhichcaseyourmeringuewillbecomegrainyandwateryandwillcollapseduringbaking.Althoughthisseemsalittleparadoxical,thegoldenruleissimple:whenindoubt,alwaysunderwhipyourmeringue.
Gâteauxderizaucarameletàlafleurd ’oranger
(Caramelandorangeblossomricecakes)IfyouhaveeverbeentoFranceandbrowsedthedairysectionofanysupermarket,youwould
havenoticedthehugerangeofrice-basedpuddingsanddesserts.Likemanyoftherecipesinthisbook,ricepuddingsandcakeswerepartofmystapledietasachild.Theyaretheidealpick-me-upforkids(oradultsforthatmatter)ontherun.
Serves10
note:Startthisrecipeadayahead.20g(¾oz)finesalt
180g(6¼oz)arboriorice
500ml(17floz)full-creammilk
250ml(9floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways
150g(5½oz)sultanas(goldenraisins)
1egg
320g(11¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar
1tablespoonorangeblossomwater
LLightlygreaseten185ml(6floz)ramekinsandplacethemonabakingtray.Alternatively,usea2litre(70floz)tallcaketinorkugelhopfmould(becauseyouareliningthebasewithcaramel,don’tuseaspringformtin).
LBring1litre(35floz)waterandthesalttotheboilinasaucepanoverhighheat.Addthericeandcookfor4minutes,thendrainandrinseundercoldrunningwater.Thisprocessisdesignedtoridthericeofmostofitsstarch.
LPutthecoldrice,milk,cream,vanillabeansandsultanasinasaucepanandsimmeroverlowheat,stirringoccasionally,for20minutes,oruntiltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Towardstheendofcooking,youwillneedtostirthericecontinuouslytopreventthemixturecatchingonthebaseofthepan.Meanwhile,usinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,whisktheeggand120g(4¼oz)ofthesugaruntilthickandpale.Whenthericeisready,addtheeggmixturetothericeandcombinewell.Stirintheorangeblossomwaterandsetaside.
LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Tomakethecaramel,put80ml(23/4floz)waterinasaucepan,thenaddtheremaining200g(7oz)ofsugar.Cookoverhighheatuntilthesugarbeginstocaramelisearoundtheedges,thenreducetheheattolowandcookuntilgolden.Whilethecarameliscooking,useapastrybrushdippedincoldwatertocleanoffanysugarcrystalsonthesideofthepan.Workingquicklyandcarefully,pourthecaramelevenlyoverthebaseoftheramekins.
LScrapetheseedsoutofthevanillabeansintothericemixture,thendiscardthebeans.Fillthecaramel-linedramekinswiththericemixtureallthewaytothetop.Coverwithfoilandbakefor15–20minutes,oruntilthericeiscookedthroughanddoesn’twobblewhenyougentlyshakeoneoftheramekins.Removethericecakesfromtheovenandleavetocool,thenrefrigerateovernight.
LThefollowingday,placetheramekinsina200°C(400°F)ovenfor3minutes.Runthebladeofaparingknifearoundtheinsideofeachramekin,theninvertthericepuddingsontoservingplates.Itisimportantthatyoureheattheramekinsinaveryhotoven—dippingtheminboilingwaterwillnotbehotenoughtosoftenthecaramelatthebaseofthepuddings.
tip
Sugar loses sweetnessduring thecaramelisationprocess,but itgainsbitterness.For this recipe, Iprefera lightgoldenorablonde (paleand lightlycooked)caramel,becausethemixtureforthericecakehasalowsugarcontentandwillbenefitfromasweetercaramel.
Tartesettourtes
‘I fyouwishtomakeanapplepiefromscratch,youmustfirstinventtheuniverse.’
CARLSAGAN
Tarteganacheauxframboisesfraiches(Chocolateganachetartwithfreshraspberries)
Tartesettourtes
(Tartsandpies)
TartsareoneofthosestaplesofpâtisseriethathaveremainedalmostunchangedsincetheywerefirstdocumentedatthebeginningoftheMiddleAges.Theyareusuallycircular,madeoutofshortcrustorpuffpastry,andareeithersweettreatslayeredwithfruit,filledwithcreamsandsweetcurds,orsavoury,withfillingssuchasmeatsandvegetables.Inthischapter,Ihavealsoincludedafewtourtes(pies),whicharebasicallythesameasatartbutcoveredwithathinlayerofpastry.Again,therearesweetversions,suchastheapplepie,orsavoury,suchastheclassicmeatpie.
WhenIwasachild,tartsseemedtobetheonethingthatIwasfascinatedwith.WheneverIwalkedpastapâtisserie,Iwasalwayssocompletelydazzledbytheseeminglyendlessrangeoftartsandpiesinthewindowdisplay,inallshapesandsizes,coloursandtextures.ThereasonIwassoenthralledwiththemwasprobablybecauseIcouldalmostunderstandhowtheyweremade.Itwasallthere,rightinfrontofme:thethinlyslicedapples,thecaramelisedcreams,theshinyglazedfruit—whatIsawIcouldalmosttaste,unlikethepetitsgâteauxorentremets(multi-layereddesserts),whichweresuchelaborateworksofartthatIfeltIhadnohopeofeverre-creatingthem.
Ihaveincludedalotofrecipesinthischapterbecausetartsandpiesareaperfectcanvastoexploreyourcreativity,improviseoruseleft-overingredients.Thesearesomeofmyfavouritetartsandpies,butfeelfreetostampyourownstyleonanyoftheserecipesandreplaceanyofthefruitsandcreamsbasedonyourlocation,seasonormood.
Pâtes
(Pastries)
Beforetheinventionofpuffpastries,Danishesorcroissants,bakersandcookshadlongbeenusingsweetandsavouryshortcrustpastriestopreparetheirdishes.Thesedoughs,whethertheyarepâtessablées,briséesorsucrées,areallmadeusingthreeorfourcommoningredients:flour,fat,salt,sometimeswithaliquidintheformofeggsorwater,and,inthecaseofthesweetshortcrustandshortbreadpastries,anadditionofsugar.Typically,thetypeofshortcrustyourequirewilldictatethetechniqueappliedtotheseingredients.Fromtheveryshort,butterypâtesabléeusedforpetitsfourstothepâteàpâté(literallymeaning‘shortcrustforpâté’,orterrine),thereisabewilderingarrayofpastryvariationstocaterforeveryneed.Ihavechosenthreebasicpastriesfortherecipesinthisbook.
InFrenchpastrycooking,wemakeadistinctionbetweentwotypesofshortcrustpastries:pâtesablée(similartechnicallytopâtebrisée,whichisusedinsavourypastries)andpâtesucrée.
1.Pâtesablée(shortbreadpastry):
Pâtesabléeisaveryshortandbutterybiscuitorshortbreadpastrythatismadebyamethodcalledsablage,meaningthatyoufirstneedtomixthebutterintotheflourbeforeintroducinganyliquids(ifyouchoosetodoso).Thisprocess‘greases’thegluten(protein)intheflourandstopsitfromabsorbinganyliquidsyoumightadd.Thisinturnstopsthestrandsofglutenfromlengthening,resultinginaverycrumbly(short)pastry.However,atruepâtesablée(madeofbutter,sugar,saltandflour)isachallengetorollforanythingmorethanoneortwotartsatatime,soincommercialkitchensit’smainlyusedinthemanufactureofpetitsfourssecs(biscuits).
Youareprobablyunlikelytowanttomakehundredsoftartsatonetime,soIrecommendusingthispastryformostofthetartsandpiesinthischapter.Tomakethedoughalittlemorepliableandeasiertohandle,Ihaveaddedaneggyolktothebasicrecipe.Thispastryismuchmoredelicateandflavoursomethanpâtesucréeandisincrediblysimpletomake.
2.Pâtebrisée(savouryshortcrustpastry):
Thisisactuallyverysimilartoapâtesabléeinitsmethodology,exceptthatitismadewithoutanysugarandcontainsalotmoreliquids.Themethodof‘sanding’(sablage)thefatandflourtogetherwillensurethatyourdoughremainsbrittle,orshort,andwillreducetheriskofshrinkage,whiletheadditionofliquidwilladdthenecessaryelasticitytomakeiteasytoroll.Bakerstendtofavourthistypeofpastrywhenbakingtartsorpiesfilledwithsoftorliquidingredientssuchasquichesbecause,unlikeflakeddoughssuchaspuffpastry,whichreliesonitsdried-uplayersofpastryfortexture,ashortcrustwillcookwellregardlessoftheviscosityofitsfilling.
3.Pâtesucrée(sweetshortcrustpastry):
Madeusingalmostthesameingredientsaspâtesablée,thispastryismoreelastic,andthereforeidealforthelarge-scalemanufactureoftartandsweetpiebases.Whileitisaloteasiertohandle,ittendstobecrunchierandtougherthanapâtesablée.Thedifferencebetweenthetwopastriesliesnotintheiringredients,althoughtheratioisslightlydifferent,butinthetechniqueused.Forpâtesucrée,youneedtocreamthebutterandsugar,thenaddtheliquid(eggs),andfinishoffbyaddingtheflourdirectlyintothewet
mixture.Becausetheglutenintheflourisdirectlyexposedtoaliquid,itwilldevelopitscharacteristicelasticityandsubsequentdifferenttexture.
Pâtesablée
Pâtesablée
(Shortbreadpastry)Thiscrumbly,delicatepastryisthefoundationformostofthesweettartsinthischapter.Itcan
bealittlehardtohandle,soifyouarenewtomakingpastry,Isuggestyouaddtheeggyolk.
Makes600g(1lb5oz)
note:Tomakechocolatepâtesablée,substitute60g(2¼oz)oftheflourwithunsweetenedcocoapowder.
300g(10½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
1¼teaspoonsfinesalt
200g(7oz)coldunsaltedbutter,chopped
100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
1eggyolk(optional)
Bymixer
Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment,combinetheflour,saltandbutteronlow speed for 2–3minutes, or until the lumps of butter are evenly dispersed and themixtureresemblescoarsebreadcrumbs(sablage).
Stopthemixer,scrapedownthesideofthebowl,thenaddthesugarandtheeggyolk,ifusing,andmixuntilwellcombined.Transferthepastrytotheworksurfaceandshapeitintoaball.Coverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.
Whenyouarereadytouseit,transferthecoldpastrytoanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachmentandmixonlowspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntil thepastryreachesaconsistent, firmtexture.
Byhand
Puttheflourandsaltinamoundonyourworksurfaceandmakeawellinthemiddle.Placethebutterinthewell(photo1)andmixthebutterintotheflourbyrubbingyourhandstogether(2,3)untilthemixtureresemblescoarsebreadcrumbs(sablage).
Shapethemixtureintoamoundagain(4)andmakeawellinthemiddle.Addthesugar(5),thentheeggyolk(6)anduseyourfingertipsandtheheelofyourhand(7,8)toincorporatethemintothe flourwithoutkneading thedough (fraisage).Note that kneadingwill develop the gluten and
toughenthepastry.
Shapeintoadisc(9),coverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.
1
2 3
4 5
6 7
8 9
cookingtips:
LNeverwanttoforgetthisrecipeagain?Weighanyamountofbutter,divideitbytwotoworkouttheamountofsugar,thencombinetheweightofthebutterandsugartoworkouttheweightoftheflour.
LTomakedeliciouslybutteryScottishshortbread,simplysubstitute10percentoftheflourintherecipeabovewithmaizecornflour(cornstarch)anddonotaddtheeggyolk.Thiswillmakeyourdough
incrediblyshort,butamazinglybutteryandbrittle.
Pâtebrisée
Pâtebrisée
(Savouryshortcrustpastry)Thissavourypastryisverysimilartopâtesablée,exceptitismadewithoutsugarandcontains
moreliquids(eggyolksandwater).Themethodformakingthispastrybyhandisthesameasforpâtesablée.
Makes900g(2lb)
500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
1¼teaspoonsfinesalt
½teaspoonfinelygroundblackpepper
250g(9oz)coldunsaltedbutter,chopped
2eggyolks
100ml(3½floz)coldwater
Bymixer
Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment,combinetheflour,salt,pepperandbutter (photo1) on low speed for 2–3minutes, or until the lumps are evenly dispersed and themixtureresemblescoarsebreadcrumbs(sablage).
Stopthemixer,scrapedownthesideofthebowl, thenaddtheeggyolksandcoldwater(2)andmixuntilwellcombined(3).
Transferthepastrytotheworksurfaceandshapeitintoaflatteneddisc(4).Coverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.
Whenyouarereadytouseit,transferthecoldpastrytoanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachmentandmixonlowspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntil thepastryreachesaconsistent, firmtexture.
1 2
2 3
cookingtips:
LThisdough,asforallshortdoughs,shouldnotbeworkedtoomuch,asthisdevelopstheglutenintheflourandnotonlyincreasesshrinkagebutalsogivesyouatoughfinishedproduct.Mostsavourytartshellswillbefilledwithaliquid,soanyshrinkagewillincreasetheriskthattheliquidwillspillovertheedgeoftheshellandrununderneaththepastry,makingitsoggy.Topreventthis,cookyoursavouryshortcrustpastrywithalittleexcessdoughfoldedoverthetopofthetin.Thisensuresthefillingwon’tspilloverthetopifthepastryshellshrinksduringbaking.Assoonasthetartcomesoutoftheoven,runaknifearoundthetopof
thetintotrimtheexcesscookedpastry.
LYoucanpersonaliseyourtartorpiebyaddingsomefinelychoppedbasilleavesorasmallhandfulofblanched,choppedbabyspinachtothedough.Thisnotonlygivesanadditionallayerofflavourtoyourtartbutalsogivesthepastryshellalovelygreenhue.Youcanalsoadd½teaspoonofyourfavouritespice—whateverbestsuitsthefillingortoppingyouareusing.Addtheherbsandspicesatthesametimeaswhenyouaddtheeggyolksandcoldwater.
Pâtesucrée
Pâtesucrée
(Sweetshortcrustpastry)TherecipeIhavegivenbelowisactuallyapâtesucréelégère,(lightsweetshortcrustpastry)
becauseitcontainsbakingpowder,whichgivesthedoughamorebrittleandmoredelicatetexture.Foratraditionalversionofpâtesucrée,simplyomitthebakingpowder.
Makes850g(1lb14oz)
270g(9½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
240g(8½oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature
1egg
2eggyolks
300g(10½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
75g(23/4oz)almondmeal
1teaspoonfinesalt
1teaspoonbakingpowder(optional)
Bymixer
Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthesugarandbutteronlowspeedfor2minutes,oruntiljustcombined.Becarefulnottocreamthemixture.
Add the egg and egg yolks and beat on low speed for another 3–5minutes, regularly scrapingdownthesideofthebowl.Don’tworryifthemixturelooksasifithassplit—theeggsdon’thavetobefullyincorporatedintothemixture.Stopthemixerandreplacethepaddleattachmentwithadoughhook.Addthedryingredientsandmixonlowspeeduntiljustcombined.
Remove the pastry from the bowl and shape it into a disc (the thinner the disc of dough, thequickeritwillfirmup),coverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.
Byhand
Put the sugar inamoundonyourwork surfaceandmakeawell in themiddle.Add thebutter(photo1),then,usingtheheelofyourhand,pressthesugarintothebutter(2)untilsmoothandwellcombined.Shapethemixtureintoasmallmoundandmakeanotherwellinthemiddle.Addtheeggandeggyolks(3) anduseyour fingertips tocombinewell (4, 5).Useapastry scraperor flatspatulatohelpscrapethebutterofftheworksurface.Avoidusingyourhandstodothis,asitwill
softenthebuttertoomuch.
Puttheflour,almondmeal,saltandbakingpowder,ifusing,inabowlandcombinewell.Shapethebutterandeggmixture intoa thindisc,put the flourmixtureon top (6) anduse the fraisagemethodwiththeheelofyourhandtopressthetwotogether(7).Liftthepastryofftheworksurfacewithapastryscraper(8),turnitoverandpresstogetheragain(don’teverkneadashortcrustpastryoritwillbecometoughandunpalatable).Shapeintoadisc(9),coverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.
1 2
3 4
5
6 7
8 9
freezingdoughs:
LMostofthetartsinthischapterrequireonlyhalfthequantityofdough,butIhavesuggestedthesequantitiesbecauseitiseasierforthemixertomixwell.Theleft-overdoughfreezesverywell,andcanbeusedforanothertart.Coverinplasticwrapandfreezeforupto3months.
Ifyouaregoingtofreezeanyleft-overdoughforfutureuse,adda500mgVitaminCtabletforeach500g(1lb2oz)offlour.Crushthetabletanddissolveitintheeggswhenmakingthedough.Whilethistipis
morerelevantforyeasteddoughsorawetdoughsuchaspuffpastry,itwillhelpprolongthelifespanoftheglutenandreducetherateofoxidation(formationofbrownspots)intheflour(formoreonfreezingdoughs).
Rolling,liningandblindbaking
Rolling,liningandblindbaking
Onceyou’veinvestedtimeandlovemakingyourpastry,youwanttomakesureyoutreatitwiththesamedelicatehandwhenrollingitoutandliningthetartshell.
Rollingthepastry
Whilemostpastrytendstoshrinkalittleduringbaking,youcanhelpreducethisbyworkingthepastryas littleaspossiblewhenrollingitout.Overworkingthepastrydevelopstheglutenintheflourandthisnotonlyincreasesthechancesofshrinkage,italsotoughensit.Alwaysrollpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfacefromthecentreoutwards,rotatingthepastry45degreesatregularintervalsratherthanrollingthepinbackandforth.
Ifitiswarminyourkitchenandthedoughbecomestoosofttoworkwithandstickstotheworksurface, roll thepastryoutbetweentwopiecesofbakingpaper, thenrefrigerate itbrieflyuntil itfirmsupalittle.
Liningthetin
Totransferthepastrytothetin,placeyourrollingpinonthebottomendofthepastryandlooselyrollthepastryaroundthepin.Carefullyunrollthepastryintothetin.Ifyouhaverolledoutyourpastrybetweenpiecesofbakingpaper,removethetopsheet,thencarefullyinvertthepastryoverthetarttin(makesureyoucentrethepastryoverthetinwhenyoudothis,becauseit’sdifficulttomoveitonceinthetin),thenpeeloffthepaper.
Oncethepastry is inthetin,quickly liftuptheexcesspastryhangingovertheside,so itdoesn’tbreakoverthesharpedgeofthetin.Dustlightlywithflour(photo1).Totrimthepastry,carefullyrunasmallsharpknifearoundtherimofthetinandcutawaytheexcesspastry(2).
Alternatively,ifyouareusingaliquidfilling,suchasafillingforquiche,leavetheedgeofthepastryslightlyoverhangingthesideofthetintoallowforanyshrinkage.Ifthepastryshrinks,youruntheriskofthefillingseepingovertheedgeofthepastryandunderneaththebase,whichwillmakeitsoggy.Assoonasthecookedtartisremovedfromtheoven,trimaroundtheedgeofthetinusingasmallsharpknife.Cuttingthepastryaftercookingdoeslookabit lesstidythanifyouhadcutitbeforehand,butitensuresyouwon’thaveasoggybase.
Refrigeratethepastry-linedtinfor30minutesbeforebaking.Thishelpstheglutenintheflourto‘relax’andwillreducethechancesofshrinkage.
Blindbaking
Toblindbakeyourtartshell,linethebaseandsideofthechilledtartshellwithalargepieceoffoil,
leavingthefoiloverhangingtheside.
Filltothetopwithuncookedrice(3),driedbeansorbakingbeads,thenfoldthefoiloverthetopofthericetoleavethetopedgeofthetartshellexposed(4).Fillingwithweightssuchasricepreventsthepastryfromrisingunevenlyandblisteringas itcooks.Toacertainextent, italsoreducesthepossibilityof thepastry sides shrinking,however, thiswillhavemore todowithhowthepastrywasmadeand rolled.Youcanbuybakingbeads fromkitchenware shops,but I find riceworksbetterasitgivesamoreconsistentcoverage(andit’sconsiderablycheaper).Youcanreusethericeorbeansrepeatedly.
Blindbakethetartshellat180°C(350°F)for20minutes,oruntilthebaseislightgolden.Removethericeandfoilandallowthetartshelltocoolbeforefilling.
1 2
3 4
cookingtip:
LItisagoodideatoreservesomeofthepastryscrapsincaseyourtartshellcracksalittleduringblindbaking.Ifyourfillingisreasonablydry,acrackwon’tmattertoomuch,butifitisrunny,theliquidwillseepthroughthecrack,resultinginasoggypastrybase.Simplypatchupanycracksonthehottartshellwithasmallpieceofreservedpastryandreturntotheovenfor5minutesorsotoallowittodryout.
Tartericotta-orangeauchocolatetaupastis
(Ricotta,chocolateandpastistart)Thiscombinationofricotta,orangeandchocolateisaclassicallyMediterraneanone—you
mighthavetriedthisfillingincannoli,aSiciliandessertmadeofafine,crunchytubeofpastry,filledwithricottaandvariousflavourcombinations.InProvence,wetypicallyaddeitherorangeblossomwaterorrosewater,aniseorfennelflowerstothericotta.Thisparticularrecipeusespastis,ananise-basedliqueuroriginatingfromMarseille,consumedprofuselybythelocalsasalate-afternoonrefreshment.
Serves8–10
300g(10½oz)PâteSablée
600g(1lb5oz)freshricottacheesedrained(seetip)
150g(5½oz)mascarpone
150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
75g(23/4oz)honey
2eggs
3eggyolks
150g(5½oz)darkchocolate(65%cocoasolids)
finelygratedzestof2oranges
30ml(1floz)pastisliqueur
pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,fordusting
driedcitruszest,toserve(optional)
LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.
LPreheattheovento175°C(345°F).Thistartcanbecookeddirectlyintherawpastryshellbut,justtobesafe,youcanbeginthebakingprocessbypar-bakingthecrust.Linethepastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Bakefor15minutes,oruntilthesideofthepastryisgolden.Unlikeafullblindbake,whichisusuallyreservedforverysoftfillings,youwanttostopbakingassoonasthepastryaroundthesideturnsalightgoldenbrown;thebottomshouldstillbeblonde.Removetherice
andfoilandsetasidetocool.
LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthericotta,mascarpone,sugarandhoneyuntilwellcombined.Withthemotoronlowspeed,addtheeggsandeggyolksoneatatime,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandbeatforanother2–3minutes,oruntilwellcombined.
LUsingalargeknife,finelychopthechocolate(don’tuseafoodprocessortodothisorthechocolatewillmelt).Combinethechocolatewiththeorangezestandpastis,thenaddtothecheesemixtureandbeatfor30seconds.
LReducetheoventemperatureto130°C(265°F).Pourthefillingintothetartshell,thenbakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor35minutes,oruntilthefillingstopswobblingwhenthetartisgentlyshaken.PersonallyIfindthebrownskinusuallyfoundoncheesecakesandtartsalittleunpalatable,soIalwaysaimforaveryblondetop.Ifyoufindthatthetopofthetartisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Thisdeflectstheheatandslowsdownthecolouration.
LJustbeforeserving,dustwithalittleicingsugarand,ifyoulike,sprinklewithdriedcitruszest.Thistartisdeliciousservedeitherwarmorcoldwithapeppermintteaorstrongcoffeeinthemorning.Personally,Ipreferitwarm,withagenerousscoopofmascarponeandadrizzleofhoney…butthat’sjustme.
tip
Whenbakingsimple,wholesome food,alwayschoose thebest ingredientsavailable.For this tart, I recommendusinga soft Italian ricottamadeofsheep’smilk,preferablymadefreshfromadelicatessen,drainedovernightinacloth.Alternatively,useanyfreshricotta,butitneedstobedrainedineitherapieceofmuslin(cheesecloth)oronpapertoweltoremovetheexcessliquid.
Gâteaubasque
(AlmondcustardBasquecake)Forthisverytraditionalcake,wearegoingtoventuretothefarsouth-westofFrance.This
regionisknownastheBasqueCountry,anditsitsdeepinthePyreneesmountains,rightontheborderofSpain.FoodinthispartofFranceusesmanyingredientswethinkofasbeingtypicallyMediterranean,butbecauseofthecolderclimatethecookingtendstobealotricherandearthier.
Thiscakeisagreatexampleofthosetypicallocalcharacteristics,withasimplebutterandalmondcustardsandwichedbetweenacrumblyshortbread.It’sperfectforthoselongwinterevenings,eatenplainorwithafewpreservedcherries,withabowlofhotchocolate,sittinginfrontofthefireplace(or,inmycase,asmallradiantheater).
Serves10
850g(1lb14oz)PâteSucrée
1egg
1eggyolk
pinchoffinesalt
Almondcustard
500ml(17floz)full-creammilk
2tablespoonsrum
50g(13/4oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)
100g(3½oz)almondmeal
120g(4¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar
4eggs
100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter
LTomakethealmondcustard,bringthemilkandrumtotheboilinasaucepanovermediumheat.Putthecornflour,almondmealandsugarinaheatproofbowlandcombinewell.Addtheeggsand,usingahand-heldwhisk,beatuntilwellcombinedandcreamy.Whiskingcontinuously,graduallyaddhalfoftheboilingmilktotheflourandeggmixtureandcombinewell,thentransferthemixturetothepanwiththeremainingmilk.Whiskcontinuouslyovermediumheatuntilthecustardcomestotheboil,thencontinuewhiskingforanother2minutes.Transferthecustardtothebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment.Addthe
butterandbeatonlowspeedfor10minutes,oruntilwarmtothetouch.Placethecustardinabowl,coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwrapandsetasideuntilcooltothetouch.
LPreheattheovento160°C(320°F).Lightlygreasean18cm(7in)round,5cm(2in)deeptarttinwitharemovablebase.
LDividethepastryinhalf.Rolloutoneportiononalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil3–4mm(1/8in)thick.Usingthetarttinasaguide,cutoutacircleofpastryabout5cm(2in)widerthanthebaseofthetin.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry.Pourthecustardintothetartshell,fillingittothetop.Makesurethatthecustardisn’ttoohotorthepastrywillmelt.Conversely,ifitistoocold,itwillsetandbecomedifficulttospread.
LRolloutthesecondportionofpastryuntil3–4mm(1/8in)thick,thencutoutacircleofpastryabout1cm(½in)widerthanthetopofthetin.Rollthepastryaroundtherollingpin,thenrollitoverthetopofthecustard.Sealthelidtothebasedoughbyrunningtherollingpinafewtimesoverthetopofthecakeuntiltheexcessdoughiscutoff.
LTomakeaneggwash,combinetheegg,eggyolkandsaltinasmallbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.Brushtheeggwashoverthetopofthecake(seetip).Bakefor30minutes,oruntilgolden.Itiscrucialthatthiscakeisbakedatalowtemperaturetoensurethatthepastrybaseisnicelycooked.Ifthecakebecomestoobrownbeforetherecommendedbakingtime,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Removefromtheoven,setasidetocool,thenrefrigerateforatleast30minutesbeforeremovingfromthetin.Servewarmwithatablespoonofthick(double/heavy)creamormascarpone,andwithasmallglassofCognacinwinter.
tip
Insomeversionsofthistraditionalcake,thetopisscoredinalatticepatternbeforebaking.Todothis,usethebackofaparingknifetogentlyscorethepatternoverthetop(afteryouhavebrushedthecakewitheggwash),takingcarethatyoudon’tcutrightthroughthepastry.
Tartescrèmebrûléeàlalavande
(Lavendercrèmebrûléetarts)Bakedcustardsinoneformoranotherhaveexistedforhundredsofyears,especiallyaroundthe
regionsofSpainandPortugal,longbeforethefirstdocumentedrecipeforcrèmebrûléeintheseventeenthcentury.Acustardismadewithathickener,suchasflourorcornflour,whileacrèmebrûléeismoreakintoacurd,wherethethicknessandtextureiscreatedbythecoagulationoftheeggs.Thisiswhyitrequiresalittlemorecareduringthebakingprocess—youdon’twantyourbrûléemixturningintoanomelette!Todothistartjustice,youreallyneedadomesticblowtorchtoachieveacrunchyandevenlycaramelisedtop.Agrillwilltendtomeltthesugarunevenlyandburnthepastry.
Makes12
8eggyolks
200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar
250ml(9floz)full-creammilk
250ml(9floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped
900g(2lb)PâteSablée
lavenderessence,totaste
LPuttheeggyolksinaheatproofbowl,addhalfthesugarandwhiskuntilwellcombined.Makesureyoustartwhiskingassoonasyoupourthesugarintotheeggyolks,toavoid‘burning’theeggs.
LPutthemilk,creamandvanillabeansandseedsinasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Removethepanfromtheheatand,whiskingcontinuously,graduallypourthehotcreamontotheeggmixture.Strainthecustardmixturethroughafinesieveintoajug.Setasidetocool,thenreturnthevanillabeanstothemixtureandrefrigeratefor2hours.
LYouwillneedtwelve7.5cm(3in)diametertartlettinsora25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil4mm(1/8in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Usinga12cm(4½in)roundcutter,cutthepastryintotwelverounds.Linethebaseandsideofthetinswiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lineeachpastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden(thecookingtimeisthesameforboththesmalltartsandthesingletart).Removethericeandfoil,thensetthetartshellsasideuntilcool.Reducetheoventemperatureto90°C(195°F).
LRemovethecustardmixturefromthefridge,removeanddiscardthevanillabeans,thenaddafewdropsoflavenderessence,totaste.Becarefulnottooverdoit;essencesareveryconcentratedandcanquicklyoverpowerotherflavours.
LToavoidspillage,placethetartshellsonabakingtrayandplaceinthepreheatedoven.Pourinthecustardfilling,beingcarefulyoudon’toverfilltheshellsorthefillingwillrunoverthesideandthepastrywillbecomesoggyunderneath.Bakefor30–40minutes,oruntilthefillingjustwobbleswhenthetartisgentlyshaken.Setasidetocooltoroomtemperature,thenrefrigeratefor3hours.Removefromthefridge15minutesbeforeservingandsprinkletheremainingsugarevenlyoverthetarts,includingthepastrycrust.Usingadomesticblowtorch,brownthetopsuntilcaramelised.
Tarteàlapistache,auxfiguesetàl ’eauderose
(Figandrosepistachiotart)TheingredientsusedinbakingandcookingaroundtheMediterraneanbasin—fromFranceto
Greece,SpainandSicily—havebeengreatlyinfluencedbytheinvasionoftheMoroccanMoors,aroundtheeighthcentury.CommonMiddleEasternspices,fruitsandnuts,suchasfigs,saffron,almondandpistachio,havebeenusedforcenturiesinMediterraneancookingbuthaveneverreallybeenassociatedwithwhatisconsideredtraditionalFrenchgastronomy.Despiteitsexoticorientalflavourprofile,thistarthasbecomeaFrenchclassic,fromProvencetoNormandy.
Serves8–10
300g(10½oz)PâteSablée
1teaspoonrosewater,ortotaste
350g(12oz)PistachioCream
8freshfigs
LLightlygreasea25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.ThereasonIrecommendgreasingthetarttinforthisrecipe(whenIusuallydon’t)isbecausethefigsreleasealotofstickyjuiceswhencookingandtheytendtocaramelisearoundthebaseofthetin,makingitimpossibletoremovethetart.
LRolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil4mm(1/8in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.
LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Stirtherosewater,totaste,intothepistachiocream.Theamountyouusewillvarydependingonthebrandofrosewaterand,ofcourse,yourpersonaltaste.Rememberthatfloralflavourssuchasrose,orangeblossom,lavender,oranyothers,workbestasanaroma;theyaremeanttoaddasubtlelayerofcomplexitytoyourflavours,sodon’tbetemptedtogooverboard.
LSpoonthepistachiocreamintothetartshelluntiltwo-thirdsfull.Thevolumeofthepistachiocreamwillvarydependingonhowmuchitwasbeaten,soyoumighthavesomeleftover.Cutthefigsinhalflengthways,thenarrangethem,cutsideup,ontopofthecream.
LBakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor40minutes,oruntilgolden.Youneedtokeepacloseeyeonthecolourofthistartduringcooking,asthefigjuicesreleasedduringcookingtend
tocaramelisebeforethetartisfullybaked.Ifthetopisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Thisdeflectstheheatandslowsdownthecolouration.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolalittle.Ifyoulike,makeaglaze(seetips)tobrushoverthetart.Servewarmwithmascarponeorwhippedcream,orcoldwithyoghurt.
Tartetatinàlarhubarbe
(Upside-downappleandrhubarbtart)Thisissuchasimple,classictartbutitcanbequitetrickytomake.Notonlydoyouhavetodeal
withtheuncertaintyofwhethertheapplewillsticktothemould,butyoualsohavetothinkaboutoffsettingthesweetnessofthecaramelandcookedapples.Let’sassumethatthefirstpartiscoveredandthetartwillcomeoutinonepiece—becauseitwill—sothentoaddressthesweetnessissue,Ihaveaddedsometart,slightlyacidicrhubarbtobalancetheflavours.So,allhandsondeck,wearedoingit!
Forthisrecipeyouwillneeda25cm(10in)ovenprooffryingpan,aswearegoingtocooktheapplesdirectlyoverahighheat,thenbaketheminthesamevessel.Alternatively,youcanuseashallow,heavy-basedsautépan.
Serves8
note:Startthisrecipe3–4hoursinadvance,toallowtimeforchilling.
100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter
100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
3stemsrhubarb,choppedintosmallpieces
12smallgrannysmithapples(seetip)
1tablespoonlemonjuice
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped
500g(1lb2oz)PuffPastry,5singleturns
LMelt40g(1½oz)ofthebutterand2tablespoonsofthesugarinafryingpanoverhighheat.Addtherhubarb,thencoverandcook,stirringoccasionallyfor10minutes,oruntiltherhubarbcollapsesintoathickpurée.Removefromtheheatandsetasideuntilcool.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Peel,halveandcoretheapples,thencutinto1cm(½in)thickslices.Sprinkle2tablespoonsofsugaroverthebaseofa25cm(10in)heavy-basedovenprooffryingpanorsautépan.Arrangealayerofappleslicesoverthebaseofthepan,trimmingthecutedgesasneededsotheslicesfitsnugly.Spreadathinlayerofrhubarbpuréeovertheapple,thenrepeatwiththeremainingappleandrhubarb.Theappleswilllosemostoftheirwaterbeforetheystarttocaramelise,sodon’tworryifthevolumelookstoobig.
LMelttheremainingbutterinasaucepan,thenaddtheremainingsugar,thelemonjuiceandvanillabeanseeds(discardthebeans).Combinewell,thenpouroverthetopoftheapples.Coverthepanwithalidandcookoverhighheatforabout10minutesto‘sweat’theapples.Whentheappleshavereleasedtheirjuices,reducetheheattomedium,thenremovethelidandcookuntilthejuiceshaveevaporatedandtheapplesbegintocaramelise.Transferthepantotheovenandbakefor10minutes,oruntiltheapplescanbepiercedeasilywithasmallknifebutarestillfirm.Removefromtheoven,leaveinthepanuntilcool,thenrefrigeratetheapplesinthepanforabout30minutes,oruntilcold.
LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredsurfaceintoacircleabout3mm(1/8in)thick.Prickalloverwithaforkandthencutoutacircleofpastryroughly5cm(2in)widerthanthediameterofthepan.Removethepanwiththecoldapplesfromthefridge.Makesuretheapplesarecold,becauseanyheatwillmeltthebutterinthepuffpastry.Covertheappleswiththepastry,tuckingtheexcessaroundtheoutsideedgesoftheapples,liketuckinginablanket.Bakeina180°C(350°F)ovenfor20minutes,oruntilthepastryisgolden.Removefromtheoven,setasideuntilcool,thenrefrigeratefor2–3hourstoallowthebutterandsugartocrystallise—thiswillmakeiteasiertoturnout.
LBeforeattemptingthedreadedflip,heatthepanina200°C(400°F)ovenfor5minutestosoftentheapplesalittle,thensimplyplaceaservingplateontopofthepanandinvertthetartontotheplate.Servewarmwiththick(double/heavy)creamoryoghurtor,evenbetter,flambéedwithCalvados(applebrandy)orrum.
tip
Useafirm-fleshedapplesuchasgrannysmithforthisrecipe,astheyaremorelikelytoretaintheirshapeandtextureduringthebakingprocess.Don’tuseoverlyripefruits;thesewillhavelostsomeoftheirinherenttartnessduringtheripeningprocess,givingyouanoverlysweetandunbalancedfinalproduct—thefleshwillalsobetoosoftwhencooked.
Tartebanane-réglisse
(Liquoriceandbananatart)Forsomeunknownreason,liquoriceisnotaspopularnowasitwasinthe1970s,when
everythingsmeltofliquoriceorwasflavouredwithit,frommytoothpastetothesmellofpipetobacco.Backthen,oneofthecheapestsweetsavailablewasasmallpieceofrootfromtheliquoricetree.Itlookedlikeathin,brownstickanditgavemeaslightbuzzwhenIchewedonit—Ithoughtthismademelookveryrugged,justlikeClintEastwooddidinthemovieAFistfulofDollars.Nowadays,however,Ilikeliquoriceforitsversatilityandcomplexityofflavour.It’sslightlypepperyyetsweetenough,andaddsanamazingdepthofflavourtobothsavouryandsweetdishes.
Serves8–10
300g(10½oz)PâteSablée
5largebananas
juiceof1lemon
100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter
60g(2¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar
Liquoricecustard
250ml(9floz)full-creammilk
250ml(9floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
80g(23/4oz)softliquorice,thinlysliced
40g(1½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
25g(1oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)
3eggs
LTomaketheliquoricecustard,putthemilkandcreaminasaucepanoverhighheatandbringtotheboil.Stirintheliquorice,thenremovefromtheheat,coverandsetasideuntiltheliquoriceisfullydissolved.Alternatively,youcanspeeduptheprocessbyusingastickblender.Whencooledtoroomtemperature,transfertoamediumbowl.Combinethesugarandcornflourinasmallbowl,thenaddtothecooledcreammixtureandwhiskuntilsmooth.Addtheeggsandwhiskuntilwellcombined,thenstrainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoajugandrefrigerate.
LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil4mm(1/8in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellwithfoil,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoil,thensetthetartshellasideuntilcool.
LCutthebananasinto5mm(¼in)slicesandtossinabowlwiththelemonjuicetostopthembrowning.Meltthebutterandsugarinafryingpanoverhighheat.Shakethepanuntilthesugarcaramelisestoalightgoldenbrown,thenaddthebananamixtureandtosstocombine.Donotstirthebananas;instead,holdthehandleofthepanwithbothhandsandtossthebananasoccasionallyuntilgolden.Removefromtheheatandallowtocoolslightly.
LPlacethecaramelisedbananaslicesoverthebaseoftartshell,arrangingtheminacircularpattern,startingontheoutsideedgeoftheshellandtightlyoverlappingeachslicewithanotheruntilyoureachthestartingpoint.Continueinthismanner,workingincirclesuntilyoureachthemiddleofthetart.
LToavoidspillage,placethetartshellonabakingtrayandplaceintheoven.Slowlypourthefillingoverthebananas,stoppingjustbelowthetop.Don’toverfillthetartshell,asthepastrymayshrinkalittleduringbakingandthefillingwillrunoverthesideoftheshell,causingittobecomesoggyunderneath.Bakefor30minutes,oruntilthefillingwobblesslightlywhenthetartisgentlyshaken.Cooltoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.
Clafoutisauxcerises
(Cherryclafoutis)ClafoutisoriginatesfromtheLimousinregionofFranceandistypicallymadewithcherries,but
therearenumerousversionsthroughoutmanypartsofFrance.InProvence,forexample,itisknownasaflaugnarde,andisusuallyfilledwithapples,apricotsorfreshfigs.WhenmysisterandIvisitedmygrandmotherduringthesummerholidays,sheusedtobakethischerryclafoutisforus(aswellashalfthechildreninthevillage)forlegoûter,amid-afternoonpick-me-upsnack.
Serves8–10
290ml(10floz)full-creammilk
250ml(9floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways
120g(4¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar
60g(2¼oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
4eggs
300g(10½oz)PâteSablée
300g(10½oz)freshblackcherries,pitted
LPutthemilk,creamandvanillabeansinasaucepanandbringtotheboilovermediumheat,thenremovefromtheheat.Removethevanillabeansandusethebackofasmallknifetoscrapealongthelengthofeachcutsidetoremovetheseeds.Addtheseedstothehotmilkanddiscardthebeans.
LPutthesugarandflourinabowlandstiruntilwellcombined(thiswillreducethechanceofthebatterbecominglumpy).Addtheeggsand,usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskuntilsmooth.Whiskingcontinuously,graduallyaddthehotmilkmixturetotheeggmixtureuntilwellcombined.Coverwithplasticwrap,setasidetocool,thenrefrigerateforatleast1hour.Anybattermadewithflourneedstorestbeforebakingtoallowtheglutentorelax.Thiswillreducethechewinessofthefinalproduct,andgivesthestarchtimetoabsorbhumidityandhelpitbloom(swell)properlyduringcooking.
LMeanwhile,lightlygreasea25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Idon’tusuallysuggestthatyouneedtogreasethetin,butthisisaverywetmixtureandthecustardmayleakalittleandsticktothetin.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethe
baseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.
LPreheattheovento175°C(345°F).Scatterthecherriesoverthepastrybase.Don’tbetemptedtoaddmorethanthis,asthecherriesreleasetheirjuicesduringbakingandtoomanywillmakeyourpastrysoggy.Pourthecustardoverthecherries,stoppingabout2mm(1/16in)fromthetop.Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor30minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Placeonawirerackandleavetocoolalittlebeforeremovingfromthetin.Clafoutisisbestservedatroomtemperatureandtastesevenbetterthedayafter.
servingsuggestion
Tobalancethetartnessofthebakedcherries,servethisclafoutiswithalightlysweetenedwhippedcream—add1tablespooncaster(superfine)sugarforevery100ml(3½floz)ofwhippingcream.Thefatinthecreamwillalsohelptosoftenthetasteandimprovetheoverallflavouroftheclafoutis.
Tartemeringuéeaucitronetaubasilic
(Lemonandbasilmeringuetart)Tartsfilledwithlemonhavebeenaroundforcenturies,butitwasn’tuntilthenineteenth
centurythataSwissbakerhadtheideaoftoppingthepiewithmeringue.Thisverycleverideabalancesthetartnessofthelemonswithsweetnessofthemeringue,whilethecrunchypastrybaseaddsatexturallayer.InthisrecipeIhaveaddedbasil,bringingintonationsofpepper,mintandanise,whichsoftensthesweetnessofthemeringueandhelpstorefinetheslightlyharshflavourofthelemoncurd.
Serves8–10
note:Startthisrecipeadayahead.300g(10½oz)PâteSablée
200g(7oz)eggwhites(about6–7)
300g(10½oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,sifted
Curd
100g(3½oz)basilleaves
icecubes
140ml(43/4floz)lemonjuice
1vanillabean,halvedlengthways
190g(63/4oz)caster(superfine)sugar
1tablespoonmaizecornflour(cornstarch)
3eggs
1eggyolk
240g(8½oz)coldunsaltedbutter,chopped
LTomakethecurd,bringasaucepanofwatertotheboil,addthebasilandreturntotheboil.Removethebasilwithaslottedspoonandquicklyplaceonabedofice.Whentheleaveshavecooled,placeinablenderandblendintoafinepurée.Transfertoabowl,addthelemonjuiceandvanillabean,thencoverandrefrigerateovernight,toallowtheflavourstodevelop.
LThefollowingday,putthesugarandcornflourinabowlandwhiskuntilsmooth.Addthe
eggsandeggyolkandcombinewell.Removethevanillabeanfromthelemonandbasilmixture,thenusethebackofaknifetoscrapealongthelengthofeachcutsidetoremovetheseeds.Addtheseedstotheeggmixtureandcombinewell.Discardthevanillabeans.Addthelemonandbasilmixturetotheeggmixture,then,usingastickblender,processuntilsmoothandwellcombined.
LStrainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoaheatproofbowlandplaceoverabain-marie(seetips).Usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskthemixtureuntilthickandopaque(about70°C/160°F).Atthistemperaturetheeggyolkiscookedandthecornflourhasfullygelatinised.Removethebowlfromtheheat,addthebutter,thenuseastickblendertoblenduntilsmoothandcreamy.Coverthesurfacewithplasticwrap,leavetocoolslightly,thenrefrigerate.
LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.
LFillthetartshellwiththecoldcurdandspreadthetopwithaspatulauntilsmooth.Makesurethecurdiscoldoryourpastrywillbecomesoggyandloseitstexture.Refrigeratewhileyoumakethemeringue.
LTomakethemeringue,useanelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachmenttowhisktheeggwhitesonhighspeedjustuntilstiffpeaksbegintoform.Donotoverwhipthemoryouwillendupwithalumpytexture.Addhalftheicingsugar,reducethespeedtomediumandwhiskfor30seconds,thenaddtheremainingicingsugarandwhiskforanother1minute.
LUsingaspatula,spreadthemeringuegenerouslyoverthetart.Don’tmakethemeringuetooflat;usethespatulatomakesmallpeaksinthemeringue.Usingadomesticblowtorch,lightlybrownthemeringue.Alternatively,placethetartunderapreheatedgrilluntilthetipsofthemeringuehavecaramelised.Thetartisbestservedonthedayofmaking.Ifyoulike,servewithacoulisoflightlypepperedraspberries.
tip
Youcanmakethecurdusingotherjuices,butyouneedtomaintainagoodbalancebetweenthecurdandthesweetnessofthemeringue,sosticktotartoracidicfruitssuchaspineapple,passionfruitoranyothercitrusfruit.
TarteamandineauxpoiresetàlaWilliamine
(Pearandalmondcreamtartwithpearliqueur)Youjusthavetolookatanycookingshow,thedisplaywindowofanypâtisserieorany
cookbookonbakingtorealisehowpopularthistartis.Itencompasseseverythingthatatartshouldbe:rusticandappetising,veryeasytomake,andstilldeliciousorevenbetterthedayafter,forbreakfast(asistheFrenchway!),withacupofcoffee.Thebeautifulbalancebetweenthedifferenttexturesofsoftfruit,fluffyalmondcreamandcrumblyshortcrusthaveensuredthatthistarthasremainedunchangedformorethana100yearsandremainsoneofmyfavouritetartstomakewhencookingathome.
PearandalmondtartsarecommonlycalledtarteBourdaloue,eventhoughtheoriginalversionwasactuallymadewithpoachedapricots.AFrenchbakeriscreditedwithitscreationattheendofthenineteenthcentury.HisbakerywassituatedonastreetcalledRueBourdaloue…andhencethename.
Serves8–10
300g(10½oz)PâteSablée
250g(9oz)AlmondCream
Poachedpears
240g(8½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways
2–3william(bartlett)pears(seetip)
Liqueursyrup
180g(6¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar
40ml(1¼floz)Williaminepeareau-de-vie,oranypear-basedliqueur
LTomakethepoachedpears,putthesugar,vanillabeansand500ml(17floz)waterinasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Peelthepears,thenaddtothesyrup,coverthepanwithalidandsimmergentlyfor15minutes,oruntiltenderbutstillfirmtothebite.Becarefulnottoovercookthepears;youneedtofeelabitofresistancewhenpiercingthemwithaknife.Drainandcool,thencutthepearsinhalflengthwaysandremovethecoresbutkeepthestemofoneofthepearsattached.
LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.
LPreheattheovento175°C(345°F).Tartsfilledwithalmondcreamdon’tneedthepastrytobeblindbaked.Spoonthealmondcreamintothepastryshelluntilaboutthree-quartersfull.Thevolumeofthealmondcreamwillvary,dependingonhowmuchitwasbeaten,soyoumighthavesomeleftover.Cuteachpearhalfintofourwedgesandarrangeontopofthealmondcream.Placeawedgeofpearwiththestemattachedinthecentreofthetart.Bakefor40minutes,oruntilgolden.
LMeanwhile,tomaketheliqueursyrup,put250ml(9floz)water,thesugarandpearliqueurinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Assoonasthetartcomesoutoftheoven,brushasmallamountofsyrupoverthepears,butnottoomuchorthetartwillgosoggy.
LYouhaveprobablyeatenthistartbefore,soyoumayhaveyourpreferredwaytoserveit.Iamnotabigfanofeatingitwarm,becausetheflavourofthepeartendstogetoverpoweredbythesweetnessofthealmondcream,soIliketoserveitcold,perhapswithastrongcoffeeorevenaglassofcrispwhitewine.
tip
Williams(bartlett)pearsareharvestedinsummerandarethemostpopularpearusedinbakingbecauseoftheirsweetanddense,smoothflesh.Ifyouareusingbutterypears(suchasbeurrebosc)orwaterypears(suchasthepopularnashipear),bakethemdirectlywithoutpoaching.
Tarteganacheauxframboisesfraiches
(Chocolateganachetartwithfreshraspberries)So,you’vegotguestsarrivinginafewhoursandyouneedastunningdessert.Don’tlookany
further!Whilemanypeoplelikeraspberriesandmostpeoplelovechocolate,Icanguaranteethateveryonewillloveachocolateandraspberrytart.
Althoughtherecipeforthistartisquitesimple,thereisoneimportantthingyouneedtoknow:tartnessdoesnotmitigatebitterness.BythisImeanthatthetartnessoftheraspberrieswillonlyexacerbatethebitternessofachocolatethathasahighpercentageofcocoa(lesssweet),sodon’tbetemptedtofallintothetrapofbuyingabitterchocolatesimplybecauseitisoftenmarketedasbeingabetterchocolate.Eachtypeandvarietyofchocolatehastobeconsideredaccordingtothetasteandflavourrequirementsoftherecipe.Whenusingatartoracidicingredient,suchastheraspberriesusedhere,alwaysincreasethesugarcontentslightlybyusingaslightlysweeterchocolate(onewithalowerpercentageofcocoa),tobalanceouttheflavours.
Serves10
300g(10½oz)ChocolatePâteSablée
250g(9oz)freshraspberriesorstrawberries
100g(3½oz)pistachios,sliveredorcoarselychopped
Chocolateganache
250g(9oz)darkchocolate(65%cocoasolids),chopped
90g(3¼oz)honey
300ml(10½floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
30g(1oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature
LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil4mm(1/8in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor10minutes,thenremovethericeandfoilandbakeforafurther10minutes,oruntilthebaseis
golden.Leavetocool,thenrefrigeratewhileyoumakethefilling.
LTomaketheganache,putthechocolateandhoneyinasmallheatproofbowl.Putthecreaminasaucepanandbringtotheboilovermediumheat.Slowlypourthehotcreamoverthechocolateandhoneyandcombinewellwithaflatspatula—donotuseawhisk(seetip).
LStandtheganacheatroomtemperatureuntilcooltothetouch.Addthebutter,thenuseastickblendertoprocessuntilsmoothandemulsified.Pourtheganacheintothecoldtartshellandleaveatroomtemperaturefor15minutes,oruntiltheganachethickens.Decoratethetopwithberries,sprinklewiththepistachios,thenrefrigerateuntilreadytoserve.Removethetartfromthefridge15minutesbeforeservingandservewithmascarponeorthick(double/heavy)cream.
tip
Donotuseawhiskwhenmakingtheganache.Traditionalganachecreamsareemulsionsoffat(cocoabutterandbutter)andliquid(cream)andshouldnot be aerated.Whipped ganaches are technically a verydifferent type of cream; these are popular amongprofessional pastry chefs as a filling forchocolatebonbons.
Conversationauxorangesépicées
(Almondandspicedorangetart)Oneofmyfirstjobsasanapprenticechefwastomaketheconversation,notasatartasit’s
typicallyseen,butasaslice.Irememberbeingamazedatthemirror-likefinishofthebakedroyalicingandthecontrastbetweenthelightpuffpastry,thefluffyalmondcreamandcrumblyshell.Thetraditionalrecipefortarteconversationisactuallyalittletooheavyandsweetformyliking,soIhaveaddedspicedorangemarmaladetooffsetsomeofthesweetness,andorangeblossomwatertoaddsomefloralnotes.Ifyoudon’twanttomakethemarmalade,useagood-qualityready-mademarmaladeorraspberryjam.
Serves8–10
500g(1lb2oz)PuffPastry,5singleturns
2–3teaspoonsorangeblossomwater,ortotaste
250g(9oz)AlmondCream
Marmalade
300g(10½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
2tablespoonsChinesefivespice
3teaspoonsfinesalt
2oranges,washed
Royalicing
1eggwhite
140g(5oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar
fewdropsoflemonjuice
LTomakethemarmalade,put1litre(35floz)water,200g(7oz)ofthesugar,fivespiceandsaltinaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Addthewholeoranges,thencoverthepanandsimmeroverlowheatfor35minutes,oruntiltheorangescrackopen.Draintheorangesanddiscardthecookingsyrup.Whencool,cutopentheorangesandremovetheseeds.Placetheunpeeledorangesinafoodprocessorwiththeremainingsugarandprocessuntilaroughpuréeforms.Transfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateuntilcold.
LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil3mm(1/8in)thick.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry.Reserveandrefrigeratetheoffcutstodecoratethetart.
LStirtheorangeblossomwaterintothealmondcreamuntilwellcombined,thenhalf-fillthetartshellwiththealmondcream.Thevolumeofalmondcreamwillvarydependingonhowmuchitwasbeaten,soyoumighthavesomeleftover.Coverthealmondcreamwithalayerofthecooledorangemarmaladeandrefrigeratewhileyoumaketheroyalicing.
LTomaketheroyalicing,useanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachmenttobeattheeggwhiteonlowspeedfor30seconds,thenslowlyaddtheicingsugar,waitingforittodissolvefullybeforeaddingmore.Whenthemixturefirmsup,addafewdropsoflemonjuicetosoftenittoaspreadableconsistency.
LCoverthemarmaladewithathinlayerofroyalicing,about2mm(1/16in)thick.Todecoratethetartwithalatticedesign,cutthereservedpastryoffcutsinto1cm(½in)widestrips.Whileyoucangetquitetechnicalabouttheactuallatticework,youcansimplylayparallelstripsofpastryacrossthetart,spacingthemabout3cm(1¼in)apart,thenrotatethetart45degreesandrepeattheprocess.Refrigeratethedecoratedtartfor30minutes.
LMeanwhile,preheattheovento190°C(375°F).Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor40minutes,oruntilgolden.Ifthetopisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Coolalittlebeforeremovingfromthetin.Serveatroomtemperaturewithcrèmefraîche.
tip
Servingacakeortarteitherwarmorhotwillexacerbatethe‘feeling’ofsweetness.Asarule,whenyoubakeacakewithahighsugarcontent,itisbettertoserveitcold,preferablywithanunsweetenedyoghurt,crèmefraîcheorsourcream.Thefattinessandsournessoftheyoghurtorsourcreamwillfurtherreducetheperceivedsweetness.
Tarteauxblettesetauxraisins
(Silverbeetandraisintart)Silverbeetpiesandtarts,eithersavouryorsweet,arespecialtiesfromNice,acitylocatedonthe
Côted’AzurinthesouthofFrance.Iwasbornthere,aswasmydadandhisfather,andwasbroughtuponasteadydietoflocalspecialties,suchasPissaladière,soccaniçoise(chickpeacrepe)andthissilverbeettart.Ihavechosentofeaturethesavouryversionofthistortadeblea(asit’scalledinthelocaldialect)becauseithasabroaderappealthanitssweetercousin,andbecauseitisyetanotherexampleofhoweventhesimplestandcheapestingredients,whenbakedproperly,candeliveramazingresults.
Serves6–8
225g(8oz)PâteBrisée
700g(1lb9oz)silverbeet(Swisschard)leaves
2teaspoonsvegetablestock(bouillon)powder
1teaspoonfinesalt
60g(2¼oz)whitecamarguericeoranyround-grainrice,suchasarborio
2tablespoonsvirginoliveoil
1onion,finelychopped
2garliccloves,finelychopped
120g(4¼oz)speckorsmokedbacon,diced
100g(3½oz)ham,diced
100ml(3½floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
100ml(3½floz)milk
3eggs
½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg
40g(1½oz)gruyèrecheese,grated
40g(1½oz)parmesancheese,grated
85g(3oz)raisinsorsultanas(goldenraisins)
½teaspoongroundblackpepper
LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout5mm(¼in)thick,movingandfluffingupthe
doughwithyourhandssoitdoesn’tstick.Linethetinwiththepastry,leavingalittleexcessoverhangingthesideofthetin.Refrigeratefor30minutes.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.
LMeanwhile,cookthesilverbeetleavesinalargesaucepanoflightlysaltedboilingwaterfor3minutes.Drainandrefreshinabowloficedwatertostopthecookingprocess.Placetheleavesinacleanclothandsqueezeoutasmuchwateraspossible.Thisprocessiscalledblanchingandstopstheleavesoxidisingandturningbrown.
LPutthestockpowderinasaucepanwith500ml(17floz)waterandthesaltandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Stirintherice,thenreducetheheattomediumandsimmerfor10minutes,oruntilthericeisaldente.Drainwellandsetaside.
LHeattheoliveoilinasaucepanoverhighheat.Addtheonionandgarlicandcookfor5minutes,stirringcontinuously,untilgolden,thenaddthespeckandhamandcookforanother5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.
LPutthecream,milk,eggsandnutmeginabowlandbeattogetherusingahand-heldwhisk.Strainthemixturethroughafinesieve,thenaddtherice,silverbeet,cheeses,raisinsandspeckmixture.Addthepepperandseasontotastewithsalt.
LPourthefillingintothetartshell,smooththetop,thencookonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor30minutes,oruntilthefillingisjustset.Removefromtheovenandimmediatelyuseasharpknifetocuttheexcesspastryfromaroundthetopofthetin.Coolonawirerack.Thistartisusuallyservedcoldoratroomtemperatureinsummer.Itisalsodeliciousservedthenextday;simplyreheatinawarmovenforafewminutes.
tip
Asisthecaseformanytartsfilledwithaliquid,itisbettertotrimtheexcesspastryafterthetarthascookedbecausethepastrytendstoshrinkalittleduringbaking.Cuttingthepastryafterwardsdoeslookalittlelesstidythanifyouhadcutitbeforecooking,butitensuresthatnoneofthefillingseepsovertheside,whichinvariablyleadstoasoggy,rawpastrybase.
Tourteauboeufbourguignon
(Beefburgundypie)BoeufbourguignonisanotherexampleofatraditionalFrenchpeasantdishthathasmanagedto
finditswayontothemenusofmanyMichelin-starredrestaurants.Tenderisingcheapcutsofmeatbycookingthemslowlyisanage-oldmethodthathasbeenrefinedandpolishedovertime,andopenedthedoortonewtrends.‘Nosetotail’,‘paddocktoplate’or‘slowcook’arepopulartermsincookingcirclesnowadays,asmeatcutsonceconsideredofsubstandardquality,suchasbeefcheeks,oxtailsorporkbelly,arebeingservedatpremiumpricesacrossthetablesofsomeofthebestrestaurantsaroundtheworld.
Ofallthosestews,boeufbourguignonreignssupremeinFranceandisoneofthestaples—alongwithcrèmebrûléeandsteakfrites—youarelikelytofindineverycaféandbistroacrossthecountry.Servethepiewithacrispleafsaladorusethefillingasatoppingforabowlofpasta.
Serves6
2eggs
1eggyolk
pinchoffinesalt
450g(1lb)PâteBrisée
Filling
50g(13/4oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)
300ml(10½floz)goodqualityredwine
2tablespoonsvirginoliveoil
1onion,finelychopped
100g(3½oz)smokedbacon,diced
2garliccloves,finelychopped
250g(9oz)buttonmushrooms,diced
2smallcarrots,diced
1½celerystalks,diced
1tablespoontomatopaste(concentratedpurée)
500g(1lb2oz)beefchucksteak,diced
125ml(4floz)beefstock,plusextraifneeded
5thymesprigs
1bay(laurel)leaf
1teaspoongroundblackpepper
2teaspoonsfinesalt
LTomakethefilling,putthecornflourand100ml(3½floz)ofthewineinasmallbowlandstiruntilsmooth,thensetaside.
LHeattheoliveoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverhighheatuntiltheoilbeginstosmoke.Addtheonion,baconandgarlictothepanandstiruntilthemixturebeginstobrown.Addthemushroomsandcarrotsandstiruntilgolden,thenaddalltheremainingingredientsexceptthecornflourmixture.Thereshouldbeenoughliquidtojustcoverthebeef;ifnot,simplyaddmorestock.Stirtocombinewell,thenreducetheheattolow,coverandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,for1hour.Itisimportanttoconstantlycheckthatthemeatissubmergedinthejuices;ifitappearstoodry,addmorestockandcontinuecooking.After1hour,checkthebeefbypressingonepieceofmeatbetweenyourfingers—ifitdoesn’tbreakaparteasily,cookforanother10minutesandthencheckagain,toppingupwithmorestockifnecessary.
LWhenthemeatistender,addthecornflourmixtureandcook,stirringcontinuouslyuntilthesaucebeginstoboilandthicken.Removefromtheheat,checktheseasoning,thenpourthebeeffillingoveraflattraywithsidesorintoalargebowl.Coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor2hours,oruntilcool.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Tomakeaneggwash,puttheeggs,eggyolkandsaltinasmallbowlandwhiskwithaforkuntilwellcombined,thensetaside.
LDividethepastryinhalf,thencovertheremaininghalfinplasticwrapandrefrigerate.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout4mm(1/8in)thick,movingandfluffingupthedoughwithyourhandssoitdoesn’tstick.Linea25cm(10in)pieortarttinwiththepastry,leavingalittleexcessoverhangingthesideofthetin.Pourthecooledfillingintothepieshell.
LRemovetheremainingportionofpastryfromthefridgeandrolloutonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout4mm(1/8in)thick.Brushalittleeggwasharoundtherimofthepieshell.Rollthepastryupontoyourrollingpinandplacethepastrylidontopbyrestingonesideofthepastryontheedgeofthetinandthenrollingitgentlyoverthetopofthefilling,takingcarethatairdoesn’tgettrappedunderneath.Gentlypinchthedoughedgesbetweenyourthumbandindexfingerstomakeagoodsealaroundthepie.Runasharpknifearoundtheoutsideedgeof
thetintoremovetheexcesspastry.
LBrushagenerousamountofeggwashoverthetopofthepieanddecorateitbygentlyscoringageometricdesignintothetopwiththebackofaknife(beingcarefulnottocutallthewaythroughthepastry).Useaskewerorsmallknifetomakeaholeinthecentretoallowthesteamtoescape.Placethepieonabakingtrayandbakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor30–40minutes.Tocheckifthepieisready,liftitupslightlywithaknifetocheckthebase—thepastryshouldbegoldenbrown.Servehot.
Tourtesdepouletauxpoireauxetaulaurier
(Chicken,leekandlaurelpies)Leeks,alongwithartichokes,areoneofmyfavouritevegetables.Theyaresubtleandsweet
enoughtobeusedasadiscreetaccompanimenttothemostdelicateingredients,suchasscallopsorlobsters,buthaveenoughearthinessandbodytobeusedjustassuccessfullyinrusticpiesandstews,orasagarnishformeatssuchaslambandbeef,aswellasoffalandgamemeat.
Chickenandleekpieflavouredwithafewbay(laurel)leavesisoneofthefewtraditionalprovincialrecipesthatyouwillroutinelyfindineventhemostup-markettraiteur(delicatessen)ineverycityaroundFrance.Itistheidealmealtowarmyouupduringthelongwinternights.
Serves6
2leeks,whitepartonly,cutinto1cm(½in)thickslices
200ml(7floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
2tablespoonsmaizecornflour(cornstarch)
2tablespoonsoliveoil
1onion,finelychopped
2garliccloves,finelychopped
3bay(laurel)leaves
½teaspoongroundblackpepper
500g(1lb2oz)boneless,skinlesschickenthighfillets,cutinto3cm(1¼in)pieces
1teaspoonfinesalt
50ml(13/4floz)whitewine
450g(1lb)PâteBrisée
2eggs
1eggyolk
LPuttheleekslicesinacolanderandrinsethoroughlyunderrunningwater.Patdrywithacleanclothorpapertowel.Placethecreamandcornflourinasmallbowlanduseaforktowhiskuntilsmoothandwellcombined.
LHeat1tablespoonoftheoliveoilinalargefryingpanoverhighheatuntiltheoilbeginstosmoke.Addtheleek,onion,garlic,bayleavesandpepper,thenreducetheheattomediumand
stircontinuouslyuntiltheleekislightgolden.Transfertoabowlandsetaside.
LHeattheremainingtablespoonofoilinthepanoverhighheatuntiltheoilbeginstosmoke.Addthechickenandsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthechickenisgoldenallover.Addthewineandstir,scrapingthebaseofthepantoremoveanycookedpieces.Reducetheheattomedium,addtheleekmixtureandcombinewell.Stirringcontinuously,addthecreammixture,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor10minutes,oruntilreducedandthickened.Removefromtheheatandsetasideuntilcool,withoutcovering.
LYouwillneedsix7.5cm(3in)diametertartlettinsora25cm(10in)tarttinwitharemovablebase.Dividethepastryinhalf,thencoveronehalfinplasticwrapandrefrigerate.Rollouttheremainingpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout4mm(1/8in)thick,movingandfluffingupthedoughwithyourhandssoitdoesn’tstick.Usinga12cm(4½in)roundcutter,cutthepastryintosixrounds.Linethebaseandsideofthetinswiththepastry,leavingalittleexcessoverhangingthesideofthetins.Refrigeratefor30minutes.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellswithfoil,makingsurethesideofeachshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.Pourthecooledfillingintothepieshells.
LTomakeaneggwash,puttheeggs,eggyolkandapinchofsaltinasmallbowlandwhiskwithaforkuntilwellcombined,thensetaside.Removetheremainingportionofpastryfromthefridgeandrollitoutonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout2mm(1/16in)thick.Usingarulerandknife,cutthepastryinto1cm(½in)widestrips,touseforthelatticetop.Brushalittleeggwasharoundtherimofthepieshell,thenusethestripstomakealatticepatternoverthetop.Cutthestripstosizebyusingyourthumbtopushthemontotheedgeofthetarttobreakofftheexcess.
LBrushtheeggwashgenerouslyoverthetopofthelattice.Placethepiesonalargebakingtrayandbakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor30minutes,oruntilthepastryisgolden.Servehot,withagreenleafsaladandaglassofwine.
tip
Whencookingpiesandstews,alwaysleavetheherbsandleavesforthedurationofthecookingprocess.Ittakesalongtimeforthearomaticoilstobreakdownanddissipatethroughthesauce,especiallyifyouareusingdriedherbs.
Tarteaujamboncruetauroquefort
(Bluecheeseandprosciuttotart)Theproblemofinvitingfriendsoverfordinnerwhenyouareapastrycheforbakeristhatyour
gueststendtohavethepreconceivedideatheyaregoingtobetakenonamagicalgastronomicaljournée,whenthefactis(andIcanonlytalkformyselfhere)theirexpectationsareboundtoexceedmyskillswhenitcomestocookinganythingsavoury.
Mysolutionissimplytosticktothebasics,usethebestandfreshestingredients,andtrytoidentifytwoflavoursthatworkperfectlytogether,suchasbluecheeseandmeat,asusedhere.Thefollowingrecipeisahomagetothisperfectcombinationofsaltyandsharpflavours,withthecheeseprovidingsubtlehintsofpepperandhazelnuts.Thisismyideaofaperfectentrée.
Serves6–8
225g(8oz)PâteBrisée
200ml(7floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
200ml(7floz)full-creammilk
4eggs
½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg
1teaspoongroundblackpepper
finesalt,totaste
100g(3½oz)gruyèrecheese,grated
150g(5½oz)roquefortcheese,finelychopped
250g(9oz)prosciutto,finelychopped
LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout5mm(¼in)thick,movingandfluffingupthedoughwithyourhandssoitdoesn’tstick.Linethetinwiththepastry,leavingalittleexcessoverhangingthesideofthetin.Asisthecaseformanytartsfilledwithaliquid,itisbettertotrimtheexcesspastryafterthetarthascookedbecausethepastrytendstoshrinkalittleduringbaking.Refrigeratefor30minutes.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.
LPutthecream,milk,eggsandnutmeginabowlandbeattogetherusingahand-heldwhisk.Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoajug,thenaddthepepperandseasontotastewithsalt.Whenseasoningthefillingforanysavourytart,considerthesaltcontentofyouringredientsandadjusttheamountofsaltaccordingly.
LScatterthegruyère,roquefortandprosciuttoevenlyoverthebaseofthetartshell.Placeonabakingtrayonthebottomshelfoftheoven,thencarefullyfilltheshelltothetopwiththeeggmixture.
LBakethetartfor40minutes,oruntilthefillingisjustset.Removefromtheovenandimmediatelyuseasharpknifetocuttheexcesspastryfromaroundthetopofthetin.Cuttingthepastryaftercookingitdoeslookabitlesstidythanifyouhadcutitbeforehand,butitensuresthatnoneofthefillingseepsovertheside,whichinvariablyleadstoasoggy,rawpastrybase.Servewarm,perhapswithaglassofchilledroséandacrispgreensalad.
tip
Youcanreplacetheroquefortwithanyotherbluecheesemadeofsheep’smilk,suchasgorgonzolaorstilton.Asageneralrule,subtlemeatssuchasvealorrabbitwillworkbetterwithyounger,sweeterbluecheesesuchasgorgonzoladolce,whilegamemeatordriedmeatswillworkbetterwithdarker,olderandmorepronouncedcheesessuchasroquefortorgorgonzolapicante.
Quichelorraine
Itwouldbedifficulttooverlookthisclassictartinthelonglistofso-called‘Frenchspecialties’andwhileitsnamesuggestsitoriginatedfromLorraine,aFrenchregioninthefarnorthofFrance,thefirstversionofaquichewascalledkuchenandwasGermaninorigin.Themethodofaddingvegetables,meatsandcondimentstoacurdmadeofeggsandcreamcookedinpastrydatesbackover500yearsandwasaverypopulartechniqueusedthroughoutAnglo-Saxongastronomy.
Thisversatileanddeliciousdishcanbeeatenforbreakfast,lunchordinner,orevenservedascanapésatacocktailparty.
Serves6–8
225g(8oz)PâteBrisée
200ml(7floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
200ml(7floz)full-creammilk
4eggs
1teaspoongroundblackpepper
finesalt,totaste
250g(9oz)speckorsmokedbacon,cutinto1cm(½in)pieces
100g(3½oz)gruyèrecheese,grated
LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout5mm(¼in)thick,movingandfluffingupthedoughwithyourhandssoitdoesn’tstick.Linethetinwiththepastry,leavingalittleexcessoverhangingthesideofthetin.Unlikefillingsforsweettarts,whichareoftenfirmer,fillingsforsavourytartsareoftenrunnyandmorelikelytospillovertherimanddowntheside,especiallyasthepastrytendstoshrinkalittleduringbaking,soitisbettertotrimtheexcesspastryafterthetarthascooked.Refrigeratefor30minutes.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.
LPutthecream,milkandeggsinabowlandbeattogetherusingahand-heldwhisk.Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoajug,thenaddthepepperandseasontotastewithsalt.Whenseasoningthefillingforanyquiche,considerthesaltcontentofyouringredientsandadjusttheamountofsaltaccordingly.
LHeatasmallfryingpanoverhighheatandaddthespeck,withoutaddinganyextrafat.Stircontinuouslyuntilgolden,thenremovewithaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowel.Spreadthespeckevenlyoverthetartshell,thenscatterwiththegruyère.Placeonabakingtrayonthebottomshelfoftheoven,thencarefullyfilltheshelltothetopwiththeeggmixture.Fillingtartsalreadysittinginsidetheovenmeansyouwon’tneedtoprecariouslywalkaroundthekitchenbalancingaquichefullofliquidcream.
LBakethequichefor40minutes,oruntilthefillingisjustset.Removefromtheovenandimmediatelyuseasharpknifetocuttheexcesspastryfromaroundthetopofthetin.Servecoldorwarm.Thequichecanbestored,coveredinplasticwrap,inthefridgefor3–4days.
tip
Here’saneasyformulaformakingaquichewhenyoucan’tfindtherecipe:1+1+1.Thebasicrecipeconsistsof1partmilk,1partcreamand1partegg.Whateverelseyouaddisuptoyou.
Pâteàchoux
‘Eventhesimplestofdessertsmadeusingthesmallestamountofskillwillalwaysbereceivedasthegrandestofgestures.’
Petsdenonnecitronnésàl’anis(Aniseandlemonnun’spuffs)
Pâteàchoux
(Chouxpastry)
IrememberthefirsttimeIevermadechouxpastry.IwasonlyafewweeksintomyapprenticeshipwhenIwasgiventhetaskofmakingpâteàchoux—Iwillneverforgetthatmomentofsheerpanic.NotonlydidIhavetomakethispuzzlingpastry,butIalsohadtofacethechallengingtaskofpipingitintoanarrayofdifferentshapesandsizes.EversinceIwasachild,Ihadalwayswonderedhowanyonemadethosedelicatelittlepuffs,sothinandlight,pumpedfullofair.Tometheyweremoreaboutengineeringthancookingandwhilethisisn’tquitethecase,chouxpastryisagoodillustrationofhowthechemistryofeachingredientworkstogetherinbaking,reinforcingthepointthatagoodbakerisfirstandforemostatechnician.
TheinventionofanearlyformofchouxpastryiscreditedtotheverycreativepastrychefsattheFrenchcourtofCatherinedeMediciinthesixteenthcentury,whowerealsoresponsiblefortheamaretti,theancestorofthefamousmacaron.Overtime,therecipeforchouxwasimprovedupon,andfinallycementeditsplaceinFrenchgastronomyintheearlynineteenthcenturywhenthefamouspastrychefMarie-AntoineCarêmecreatedthecroque-en-bouche(‘crunchinthemouth’),orcroquemboucheasit’salsoknown.
Unbeknowntomostamateurbakers,chouxpastryisactuallyanamazinglysimpleconcoctiontomakeathome.Itisalsoveryversatileandcanbeturnedintoawiderangeofpastries—froméclairstocroquembouche(baked),churrostodoughnuts(fried),andevensavourydishes,suchasthefamousParisiangnocchi(poached).
Pâteàchoux
Pâteàchoux
(Chouxpastry)Therearejustthreeeasystepswhenmakingchouxpastry:boiltheliquidswiththebutter,dryit
upwiththeflour,thenincorporatetheeggs.Itisalmostfailproof,providingyoufollowtherecipeprecisely—therealchallengeliesinthebaking.Chouxpastryrisesduetotheevaporationoftheliquidswhenexposedtothehightemperatureintheoven.Thesteamissubsequentlytrappedwithinthepuffduetothecoagulationoftheeggsearlyinthebakingprocess,andtheflour,oncecooked,willprovidethethinsupportingstructureoftheskin.Thisbatterisusedforbothsweetpastriesandsavourydishes.
Makes750g(1lb10oz)
125ml(4floz)water
125ml(4floz)full-creammilk
100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter
2.5g(1/16oz)finesalt
150g(5½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
3eggs,plus1extra(lightlybeaten),ifneeded
Makingthechouxpaste
Put thewater,milk, butter and salt in a saucepan (photo1)and stir overmediumheat until thebutterhasmelted.Increasetheheattohigh,thenaddtheflourallatonceandbeginstirringwithawoodenspoonuntil themixturecomestogether intoathickbutterypaste.Continuemixingfor2–3minutes,oruntilthemixturecomesawayfromthesideofthepan(2).Removefromtheheat.
Transferthemixturetothebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment(3)andbeatonmediumspeeduntilcool to the touch.Reduce thespeed to lowandadd the3eggs,oneatatime (4), scraping the side of the bowl from time to time and allowing each egg to be fullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext.
To check if the choux paste has the right consistency, lift the paddle attachment; if the doughstretchesabout5cm(2in)beforeitbreaks,itisready(5).Alternatively,takeasmallteaspoonofthedough;ifitstaysuprightbutcollapsesatthetip,itisready.Ifthedoughtipbreaksofforstaysinastiffpeak,youwillneedtoadd½oftheextraegg.
P ipingchoux
Oncemade,thechouxpasteneedstobepipedstraightaway.Lightlygreaseabakingtray,thenlinewithbakingpaper.Thepaperwill stick to theoilon the tray,making iteasier topipe thestickychoux.
Tomakeéclairs,fillapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle(6)andpipe10cm(4in)lengths of choux onto a lined baking tray. To pipe puffs or gougères (cheese puffs), pipe smallmoundsof themixtureonto the tray (7).For savourygougères,brushover the topswithaneggwash(8), thenusea forktomakeacrosshatchedpatternonthetop(9).Theseraisedridgeswillbrownquickly,allowingthepufftocrackevenlyduringbaking.
Cookingchoux
Inorderforthechouxtodevelopproperlyandgetthemaximumlift,itneedstobebakedinahotovenat180°C(350°F)earlyintheprocess.Neveropenthedoorduringtheinitialstagesofbaking.After the first 15minutes of baking, reduce the heat to 170°C (340°F) and cook for at least 30minutestoallowthechouxpastrytodryout.Theovendoorshouldbeleftslightlyajarafterthefirst25minutesofbaking,toridtheovenofthelargeamountofsteamcreatedwhilecooking.Ifthesteamisunabletoescape,thiswilllengthenthedryingprocess.
Chouxpastrycanbetrickytocookperfectly,soIalwaysrecommendcookingafewsamplesbeforecookingthewholemixture.
1 2
3 4
5 6
7 8
9
Chouquettes
(Pearlsugarpuffs)Chouquettesreallyareanexerciseinrestraintforanybuddingbaker,justastheyareforthe
professionalpastrychef.Theirlookcanonlybedescribedasrustic,andtheyarefilledwith…well,air,andrelyonnothingmorethantheirsweetandcrunchypearlsugarfortasteandtexture.Ifyoucan’ttrustmeastohowwonderfultheyare,thenatleastknowthatParisianswouldnotwaitinlongqueuesoutsidetheirlocalbakeryeveryweekendfortheirbagsoffreshlybakedchouquettesiftheywereanythingelsebutdeliciouslyaddictive.
Makes50
2eggs
pinchoffinesalt
750g(1lb10oz)ChouxPastry
200g(7oz)pearlsugar(seetip)
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwolargebakingtrays,thenlinewithbakingpaper.Thepaperwillsticktotheoilonthetrays,makingitmucheasierforyoutopipethestickychouxpaste.
LTomakeaneggwash,puttheeggsandsaltinasmallbowlandlightlybeatwithaforkuntilwellcombined,thensetaside.
LSpoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Pipeballsofabout3cm(1¼in)indiameteronthetrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.Don’tbetemptedtomakethemanybigger—thebestpartofeatingachouquetteisfittingawholeone,oreventwo,intoyourmouth!Ifyoudon’thaveapipingbag,useatablespoonandsimplypushthemoffthespoonontothetraywithyourfingersoranotherspoon.
LBrushathinlayerofeggwashoverthepuffs,thensprinkleagenerousamountofpearlsugaroverthetop.Trytocoverthewholepuffwithasmuchsugarasyoucan,becausethechouxwilldoubleinsizeduringbaking.Removetheexcesssugarbygentlytippingeachtrayonitssidewhileholdingontothesheetofpaper.
LBakefor15minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto170°C(340°F)andbakeforanother20minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Remembernottoopentheovendoorduringtheinitialstagesofcooking,asthepuffsneedthesteamintheoventobuildupinordertorise
properly.Removefromtheovenandplaceonawireracktocool.Repeatwiththeremainingpastry.
tip
Pearlsugarismadefromhighlyrefinedcaster(superfine)sugarthathasbeencompactedduringthemanufacturingprocess,thencrushedandsiftedintolarge(2mm/1/16 in)crystals.Theadvantageof this sugar is that it ishighly resistant toheatandwaterand thereforedoesnotmeltduring thebakingprocess—perfectforwhenyouwanttoaddacrunchyelementtoyourbiscuitsorpastries.Pearlsugarisavailablefromspecialistfoodstores.Alternatively,youcancrushandsievesugarcubestoanalmostidenticalresult.
Éclairsàlafraiseetàlamandarine
(Strawberryandmandarinéclairs)Formanydecades,éclairsweresimplyoneofmanyclassiccakesthatyouwouldexpecttofind
inyourlocalbakery,usuallyfilledwitheithercoffeeorchocolatecustard,ormaybefreshcream.Nowadays,however,thankslargelytotheverytalentedpastrychefChristopheAdam,éclairshaveenjoyedaresurgence,evendethroningthefamedmacaronforthetitleof‘mostpopularnew(old)must-havepâtisserie’.
Thereasonbehindtheirmassivesuccessistheirwonderfulversatility(aswasthecaseforthemacaron).Theycanbefilledwithallmannerofcreams,curdsandganache,ofanalmostinfinitecombinationofflavoursandtextures,andcanbecoatedwitheverycolourunderthesun.Feelfreetousethisrecipeasinspirationforyourownideasorflavours.
Makesabout35
750g(1lb10oz)ChouxPastry
Custard
40g(1½oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)
100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
1egg
2eggyolks
500ml(17floz)strawberrypurée(frozenorblendedfromfresh)
finelygratedzestof2mandarins
1vanillabean,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped
100g(3½oz)coldunsaltedbutter,chopped
50ml(13/4floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
Crumble
120g(4¼oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
30g(1oz)almondmeal
150g(5½oz)raw(demerara)sugar
150g(5½oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature
redfoodcolouring(seetip)
Todecorate(optional)
strawberries,quartered
mandarinsegments
pistachionuts,veryfinelychopped
smallmintleaves
smalledibleflowers,suchasviolas
LTomakethecustard,putthecornflourandsugarinaheatproofbowlandstiruntilsmooth,thenaddtheeggandeggyolksandwhiskuntilsmooth.Putthestrawberrypurée,mandarinzestandthevanillabeanandseedsintoasaucepanovermediumheatandstircontinuouslyuntilthemixturecomestotheboil.Removefromtheheatandimmediatelyaddtotheeggmixtureinthebowl,whiskingvigorouslyuntilcombinedwell.Returnthecustardtothepanandwhiskoverlow–mediumheatuntilthecustardthickensandreturnstotheboil.Removefromtheheat,thenremoveanddiscardthevanillabean.
LTransferthecustardtothebowlofanelectricmixturefittedwithawhiskattachment.Addthebutterandbeatonlowspeedfor20minutes,oruntilthecustardiscooltotouch(about40°C/105°F).Addthecreamandbeatuntilwellcombined.Transferthecustardtoabowlandcoverthesurfacewithplasticwrap.Whenrefrigeratingawarmmixturesuchasthiscustard,makesuretheplasticwrapsitsdirectlyonthesurfacetoavoidtheformationofaskin.Setasidefor1hour,thenrefrigerateuntilneeded.
LMeanwhile,tomakethecrumble,puttheflour,almondmeal,sugarandbutterinafoodprocessorandprocessfor2–3minutes,thenaddafewdropsoffoodcolouringandprocessjustuntilthedoughcomestogether.Shapeintoadisc,coverinplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor30minutes.
LRolloutthecolouredpastrybetweentwosheetsofbakingpaperuntil2–3mm(1/16–1/8in)thick.Removethetopsheetofpaper.Then,usingasharpparingknife,cutthedoughinto4x11cm(1½x4¼in)rectangles.Pressallthescrapstogether,re-rollandrepeattheprocessuntilyouhave35rectangles.Storethepastryflatintherefrigeratorforatleast10minutes,oruntilneeded,beforetryingtoliftitoffthebakingpaper.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwobakingtrays,thenlinewithbakingpaper.Thepaperwillsticktotheoilonthetrays,makingitmucheasierforyoutopipethestickychouxpaste.
LSpoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Pipeéclairsabout10cm(4in)longand2.5cm(1in)wide,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.Carefullyplaceonechilledpastryrectangleoneachéclair,thenbakefor15minutes.Reducetheoventemperatureto170°C(340°F)andbakeforanother20minutes.Removefromtheoven,leavetocoolalittleonthetray,thentransfertoawireracktocoolcompletely.
LUsingthetipofaparingknifeoraskewer,maketwoholes(oneineachend)inthebaseofeachéclair.Removethecustardfromthefridgeandwhiskvigorouslyuntilsmooth.Spoonthecustardintoapipingbagfittedwitha4mm(1/8in)plainnozzleandpipethecustardintotheéclairs.Makesurethatthecustard(oranyfillingforchouxpuffs)iscoldoryouréclairswillbecomesoggyalmostimmediately.
LYoucanservetheéclairsastheyare,butIliketodecoratethemwithfruit,nutsandsmallmintleavesandedibleflowers—allheldonwithasmalldollopofleft-overcustard.Feelfreetoexperimentwithwhateveryouhaveonhand.Theéclairsmustbekeptrefrigerateduntilservingandarebesteatenthedaytheyarebaked.
tip
Allfoodcolouringsarenotthesame.Somearemuchmoreconcentratedthanothers,somearesoldasliquidsorgels,pasteorevendrypigments.Inordertocontroltheamountofcolouryouaddtoyourcakes,alwaysbindallyouringredientstogetherfirst,thenaddthesmallestamountofcolouring.Youcanthenaddmoreatanytimeduringthemixingprocess.Asarule,strongcolourstendtogiveamodernlook,whilelightercolourstendtobeassociatedwithamoresophisticatedlook.
Chouxbeurredecacahouète-chocolataulait
(Peanutbutterandmilkchocolatepuffs)ThismixtureofpeanutbutterandchocolateisatwistontheItaliangianduja,aconfectionery
madeofmilkchocolateandhazelnut,whichisalsoverypopularinFrance.
Ialwaysthoughtofpeanutbutterasalittlesickeningandthepoorcousinofpralinepaste,soittookmonthsofnegotiationsfrommyteamtoconvincemetomakeapeanutganachemacaron.Asitturnedout,anditpainsmetoadmitit,thishasbecomeoneofmyfavouriteflavourcombinations,somuchsothatIthoughtIwoulduseitforthesechouxpuffsaswell.Thisrecipecallsforapeanutandchocolatecustardratherthanastraightganache,whichwouldbetoorichfortheservingportionandtoohardoncerefrigerated.
Makesabout40
2eggs
pinchoffinesalt
750g(1lb10oz)ChouxPastry
200g(7oz)saltedpeanuts,finelyground
700g(1lb9oz)Custard,atroomtemperature
Peanutganache
200g(7oz)milkchocolate(40%cocoasolids),finelychopped
85g(3oz)smoothpeanutbutter
220ml(73/4floz)whippingcream(35%)
50g(13/4oz)coldunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallcubes
Todecorate(optional)
caramelcoating
toastedorcaramelisedpeanuts
shardsofdriedmeringue
chocolatebiscuitcrumbs
LTomakethepeanutganache,putthechocolateandpeanutbutterinaheatproofbowl.Put
thecreaminasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Thisisasmallamountofliquidanditwillboiloververyquickly,sopaycloseattention.Assoonasthecreamcomestotheboil,pourhalfthecreamoverthepeanutbuttermixtureandwhiskuntilitbeginstocometogether.Atthisstage,yourganacheshouldlooklikeathickpaste.Addtheremainingcreamandgentlywhiskuntilwellcombined.Becarefulnottowhisktheganachetoomuch,asthispushesairintothemixtureandmakesithardandgrainy.Setasideuntiljustwarmtothetouch(about30°C/85°F).
LAddthebutteranduseastickblendertoblenduntilsmoothandwellcombined.Coverthesurfacewithplasticwrap,thensetasideinacoolplace,butnotinthefridge.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwolargebakingtrays,thenlinewithbakingpaper.Thepaperwillsticktotheoilonthetrays,makingitmucheasierforyoutopipethestickychouxpaste.
LTomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowl,thensetaside.Spoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Pipe4cm(1½in)roundsontothelinedtrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.Brushtheeggwashalloverthepuffs,thensprinklegenerouslywiththegroundpeanuts.Removetheexcessnutsbygentlytippingeachtrayonitssidewhileholdingontothesheetofpaper.
LBakefor15minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto170°C(340°F)andcookforanother20minutes,oruntilgolden.Removefromtheoven,leavetocoolalittleonthetrays,thentransfertoawireracktocoolforatleast20minutes.
LMeanwhile,placethecustardandthecooledpeanutganachetogetherinasmallbowl.Usingastickblender,processuntilsmoothandwellcombined.Usingasmallbowlforthishelpsthepeanutcustardtostayglossyandsmoothbyreducingtheriskofanyairbubblesgettingintothemixture.
LUsingaserratedknife,cutthechouxpuffsinhalfandkeepthetopofeachpuffclosetoitsbasesotheydon’tgetmixedup.Spoonthefillingintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzleandpipeagenerousdollopofpeanutcustardintothebottomhalfofthepuff.Asyoudothis,trytopullthebaginanupwarddirectionasyoupressthemixtureout,togiveabitofheighttothecustard.Puttheotherhalfofthepuffontop.
LIfyoulike,youcancoatthetopofeachpuffwithablonde(pale)caramel,thendecoratewithsomecrushedtoastedorcaramelisedpeanuts,somesmallshardsofdriedmeringueandapinchofchocolatebiscuitcrumbs.Alternatively,youcouldsimplycoatthepuffswithmeltedchocolate,sprinklewithsomecrushedpeanutsanddecoratewithasmalledibleflower.
tips
Whencookingalargequantityofchouxpuffs,Irecommendthatyoucookafewsamplesbeforecookingthewholemixture,soyoucanbeconfidentaboutthecookingtimes.Eachovenwillcookalittledifferently.
While youare advised to closely follow the recipeswhenbaking, I recommend that youalso addyourpersonal touch, especiallywhen it comes todecorating.
Petsdenonnecitronnésàl’anis(Aniseandlemonnun’spuffs)
Petsdenonnecitronnésàl ’anis
(Aniseandlemonnun’spuffs)Thesedeliciousbite-sizedfrittersareoneoftherareFrenchspecialtiesthatfailedtogain
widespreadpopularityoverseas,probablydueinparttotheirslightlyirreverentname(whichliterallytranslatesas‘nun’sfart’).Petsdenonnefirstappearedingastronomicliteraturearoundthesixteenthcenturyandwhiletheoriginofitsnameissteepedinfolklore,itatleastgivesusaninsightintothedubioussenseofhumouratthetime.Servetheselittlemorselsasadeliciousmid-afternoonsnackorforbreakfast,dunkedintoalargebowlofcaféaulait.
Makes100
300g(10½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
1teaspoongroundstaranise
375g(13oz)ChouxPastry,restedatroomtemperaturefor1hour
finelygratedzestof2lemons
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped
½teaspoonbakingpowder
vegetableoil,fordeep-frying
LPutthesugarandstaraniseinalargebowl,combinewellandsetaside.Putthechouxpastryinanotherbowl,thenaddthelemonzest,vanillabeanseeds(discardthebeans)andbakingpowderandbeatwithawoodenspoonuntilwellcombined.
LHeattheoilinadeep-fryeroradeepsaucepanuntil180°C(350°F).Spoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Holdthefilledpipingbaginonehandandasmallparingknifeintheotherhandand,workinginbatchesof10to15atatime,pipethemixtureintothehotoil,cuttingclosetothenozzleevery2cm(3/4in)tomakesmallballs.Duringcooking,makesurethatthetemperatureoftheoilstaysat180°C(350°F)—ifitcoolstoomuch,thepuffsmaybecomegreasy.Beawarethatthefurtheryouarefromtheoil,themorelikelyyouaretogetscaldedwhenthechouxisdroppedintothehotoil.
LUsingaflatspatula,gentlymovethepuffsaroundintheoil,constantlypushingthemdownintotheoilsotheycookevenly.Itisimportanttofrythepuffsreasonablyslowlysothattheycookallthewaythrough.
LWhentheyaregolden,removewithaslottedspoon,drainonpapertowel,thenimmediately
tossthepuffsinthebowlwiththesugarandstaranisemixtureuntilwellcoated.Servewarmorcoolonwireracksuntilatroomtemperature.
tip
Caster(superfine)sugarflavouredwithvariousspices,teasandfragrantflowers(lavender,jasminetea,vanillabeanseeds,citruszests)canbesprinkledonmanydessertsandsweetbreads,includingthesepuffs.Pourcastersugarandtheflavouringofchoiceintoanairtightcontainer,thencoverwiththelidandshakewell.Keep thesugar inyourpantry,shaking it fromtimeto time. Ifyouareusing fragrant flowersor leaves,alwaysusedried,edibleflowers,rememberingthatalotofbeautifullyfragrantflowerscanbepoisonous,suchasfrangipanisorazaleas.
Gougèresfourréesàlabéchamelaugruyère
(Gruyèrebéchamel-filledpuffs)Thisisthemostpopularrecipeforthesesavourychoux,oftenservedasanapéritifwithdrinks.
Thefactthattheycanbeservedplain,verymuchlikeyouwouldachouquette,orfilledwithanymannerofcreamsandsauces,makesthemanincrediblyversatileamuse-bouche,perfectforanyoccasion,fromthemostformalweddingfunctiontoacasualfamilypicnic.
Thesebéchamel-filledgougèresarethemostpopularandclassicallyFrenchversionbut,ofcourse,feelfreetoaddyourownpersonaltouchesbyswappingnutmegforcardamomordriedherbs,oraddingmushroomscookedwithgarlicandparsleytothebéchamel.
Makesabout40
2eggs
pinchofsalt
750g(1lb10oz)ChouxPastry
200g(7oz)gruyèrecheese,finelygrated
Gruyèrebéchamel
1litre(35floz)full-creammilk
120g(4¼oz)unsaltedbutter
80g(23/4oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
100g(3½oz)gruyèrecheese,grated
½teaspoongroundnutmeg
½teaspoongroundblackpepper
finesalt,totaste
LTomakethegruyèrebéchamel,putthemilkinasaucepanoverhighheatandbringtoasimmer.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.Putthebutterinamediumheavy-basedsaucepanandcookoverlowheatuntilmelted.Addtheflourandbeginstirringwithawoodenspoonuntilthemixturebeginstothicken.Thisbutterandflourpasteiscalledarouxandisusedtothickensauces,stocksorsoups.Cooktherouxfor2minutes,stirringcontinuouslyandneverallowingittobrown.Swapthespoonforawhisk,then,whiskingcontinuously,addhalfthehotmilk,alittleatatimeandwaitingforeachadditiontobefullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext.Increasetheheattomediumandcontinueaddingtheremainingmilk,alittleatatime.
LBringtotheboil,thenremovefromtheheatandcontinuewhiskingforanotherminute.Addthe100g(3½oz)gruyère,thenutmeg,pepper,andsalttotaste,andcombinewell.Pourthebéchamelsauceintoashallowcontainer,coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwraptopreventaskinformingandrefrigeratefor1hour.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwolargebakingtrays,thenlinewithbakingpaper.Thepaperwillsticktotheoilonthetrays,makingitmucheasierforyoutopipethestickychouxpaste.Tomakeaneggwash,puttheeggsandapinchofsaltinasmallbowlandlightlybeatwithaforkuntilwellcombined,thensetaside.
LSpoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Pipe4cm(1½in)roundsontothelinedtrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.Brushtheeggwashoverthetopofeachround,thenuseaforktomakeacrosshatchedpatternonthetopofeachone(seephoto).Sprinklethefinelygratedgruyèreoverthetop.Bakefor15minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto170°C(340°F)andbakeforanother25minutes.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolforatleast20minutes.Usingthetipofaparingknifeoraskewer,makeasmallholeinthebottomofeachpuff.
LWhenyouarereadytoserve,useanelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachmenttowhiskthecoldbéchamelonlowspeeduntilsmooth.Spoonthebéchamelintoapipingbagfittedwitha4mm(1/8in)plainnozzleandfilleachpuffwiththebéchamel.Gougèresarebesteatenthedaytheyaremade,althoughunfilledpuffscanbestoredinanairtightcontainerforafewhoursuntilyouarereadytofillthem.
Béchamelisusuallyreferredtoas‘whitesauce’inEnglish.Theinherentcharacteristicsofthissauce,withitsbeautifulcreamytextureandrelativelyneutralflavour,havemadeitapopularingredientinmanydishes,includingGreekmoussakaandItaliancannelloniandlasagne.
Gnocchiaupistouetauxpalourdes
(Clamandpestognocchi)Parisiangnocchi,whicharemadefromchouxpastry,arequitedifferentfromthemorepopular
Mediterraneanpotatognocchi,butthey’rejustasversatileandeveneasiertomake.
WhenIwasanapprentice,Parisiangnocchiwasmyboss’sideaofanup-marketstaffmeal.Simplyboiltheleft-overchouxpastry,softencoldbéchamelleftoverswithmilk,thenaddafewmushroomsandeverybodywins.By‘everybody’Imeanmostlymyboss,becausethatversionwasaslightandrefinedasa1970smayonnaise-ladenprawncocktail!Forthisrecipe,Iamsuggestingalighter,healthierProvençalalternativebyswappingtheheavybéchamelforazingyclamandbasilsauce.Thisisdeliciousservedasahotdishforwinterorasasummerycoldentréeforarelaxedlunchinthesun.
Serves6
750g(1lb10oz)ChouxPastry,restedforatleast1hourinthefridge
2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil,plusextra,fordrizzling
1onion,finelychopped
1garlicclove,finelychopped
80g(23/4oz)thyme(about½bunch),leavespicked
200ml(7floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
400ml(14floz)drywhitewine
1.25kg(2lb12oz)clams(vongole),soakedincoldwaterfor1hourtodisgorgeanysand
40g(1½oz)unsaltedbutter
juiceof1lemon
Pesto
120g(4¼oz)basil(1largebunch),leavespicked
4garliccloves,peeled
50g(13/4oz)parmesancheese,finelygrated
30g(1oz)pinenuts,toasted
200ml(7floz)extravirginoliveoil,refrigerateduntilcold
saltandgroundblackpepper,totaste
LTomakethepesto,putthebasil,garlic,parmesan,pinenutsandhalfoftheoliveoilinafoodprocessorandprocessfor30seconds,beforedrizzlingintheremainingoil.Processjustuntilsmooth,thenseasontotastewithsaltandpepper(seetips).Transferthepestotoasmallbowl,coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwrapandrefrigerate.
LFillamediumsaucepantwo-thirdsfullofwaterandbringtotheboiloverhighheat,thenreducethetemperaturetolow–mediumtomaintainagentlesimmer.Spoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Placethefilledpipingbaginonehandandasmallparingknifeintheotherand,workinginbatches,pipethemixtureintothesimmeringwater,cuttingclosetothenozzleevery3cm(1¼in)tomakesmallgnocchi.Assoonasthegnocchirisetothetop,removewithaslottedspoon,drainwellandplaceinabowl.Drizzlethegnocchiwithalittleoliveoil.Repeatwiththeremainingmixture.
LHeat1tablespoonoftheoliveoilinalargefryingpanovermediumheat.Addtheonion,garlicandthymeandcook,stirring,for5minutes,oruntiltheonionsaredarkgolden.Addthecreamandwineandsimmerfor5minutes,thenaddtheclams,coverandcookforanother5minutes,oruntilalltheshellshaveopened.Turnofftheheatandcoverthepan.
LHeattheremainingtablespoonofoliveoilandthebutterinanotherlargefryingpanoverhighheat.Whenitbeginssmoking,addthecoldgnocchiandcook,tossingthepancontinuously,untilthegnocchiaregolden.Addtheclamsandcreamsauce,reducetheheattomedium,thenaddthelemonjuiceandseasontotaste.Shakethepanwithbothhandsuntileverythingiswellcombined.Removefromtheheatandsetasidefor2minuteswiththelidon.Dividethegnocchiandclamsamongservingplatesandaddafewtablespoonsofpestorandomlyoverthetop.Servehotwithagreensaladandaglassofrosé.
tips
Whenmaking pesto in a food processor, be careful not to overprocess it. Themachine can heat up themixture and causes rapid oxidation of thechlorophyllinthebasilleaves,turningtheirvibrantcolourintoadarkolivegreenmess.Ifthepestostartstofeeltepidtothetouch,stopblendingandrefrigerateforabout10minutesbeforeresuming.
Youcanflavouryourgnocchibyaddingfinelychoppedbasilleaves,thymeorpepperduringthefinalstageofmixingthechouxdough.Thiswillgivenotonlyanadditionaltouchofflavourbutalsoatingeofcolourtothedish.
Patefeuilletée
‘T hefineartsarefiveinnumber,namely:painting,sculpture,poetry,musicandarchitecture,theprincipalbranchofthelatterbeingpâtisserie.’
MARIE-ANTOINECARÊME
Palmiersauxnoisettes(Hazelnutpalmiers)
Pâtefeuilletée
(Puffpastry)
Thepuffpastrywearefamiliarwithtodayisthoughttobeanadaptationoffilopastry,wherelayersofthin,unleavenedbuttereddoughwerestackedtomakedessertssuchasbaklavaandstrudel.Theactualprocessoffoldingadougharoundablockofbuttertoachievethoseimpossiblythinandflakylayersiscreditedtoaseventeenth-centurypainterandpastrychefnamedClaudeGellée.Sincethen,puffpastryhasinfusedeverycornerofFrenchgastronomy,andinmyriadforms:sweet,savoury,coated,filled,twisted—it’sthemostversatiledoughofall.Asanaddedbonus,pâtefeuilletéefreezesverywellraw,aprivilegenotaffordedbyanyyeasteddoughs.
Alongwiththedoughforcroissant,puffpastryisoftenconsideredoneofthetrickiestdoughstomaster,butIhaveactuallyalwaysfoundittheleasttechnicallychallengingofallbakers’doughs.Itconsistsofwrappingabasemixtureofplainflour,saltandwater(sometimeswiththeadditionofmeltedbutter)aroundablockofbutter.Whatitdoesrequire,however,istimeandalotofelbowgreasetoachievethoseamazinglythinandbutterylayerssotypicalofpuffpastry.Thedoughneedstobefoldedandlaminatedseveraltimes(turned),justasyouwouldacroissantdough,exceptyouhavetodothisforalmostdoublethenumberoftimes.UnlikethedoughforacroissantorDanish,whichhasapropensitytobeginprovingatroomtemperature(duetoitsyeastcontent)andisusuallyasofter,morefragiledough,puffpastryismadeofadryandstiffbatterthatdoesnotstickorbreakeasilyduringthelaminatingprocess.Thisisproviding,ofcourse,thatyouworkpatiently,allowingtimebetweeneach‘turn’fortheglutentorelax.
Pâtefeuilletée
(Puffpastry)Therearethreedifferentmethodsofmakingpuffpastry:
Traditionalpuff:ThisisthemethodIuseinthisbook.Thepastryismadefromastiffwater-and-flourdough(calleddétrempe)wrappedoveralayerofbutter.Itrequiresfiveorsixsingleturns(aseriesofrolling,foldingandturningthedough)andabitofpatience,butitwilltakejustaslongtofinishastheothertwomethods.Thismethodwillgiveyoubeautifullythinandregularlayersthroughoutyourpastrythatwillriseevenlyduringthebakingprocess.
F lakypuff(roughpuff):Thisisasupposedlyquickerversionofthetraditionalpuffpastry,althoughyoustillhavetoturnthedoughasyouwouldwhenmakingatraditionalpuff.Thistypeofpuffisusedtomakepieandquichebaseswheretheconsistencyofthelayersisnotreallycriticaltothelookofthefinishedproduct.Tospeedtheprocessupalittle,thepastrycanbemadewiththreeturnsinsteadoffive.Forthismethod,youactuallymixthebutterwiththedoughrightattheendoftheprocess,beforelaminating.
Invertedpuff:Thismethodiscalledinvertedbecauseitrequiresthebuttertobewrappedaroundthedough,theexactoppositetothetraditionalmethod.Onceturned,thiswillgiveyoumore(butthinner)layersofbutterandamorerefinedtexture.Inmyopinion,theaddeddifficultiesofrollingthebutterdirectly(whichcanbedifficultwhenthebutterstartstomeltandsticktotheworksurface)insteadofrollingthedougharefaroutweighedbytheperceivedbenefits,especiallyforanamateurbaker.
Pâtefeuilletée
(Traditionalpuffpastry)Thefollowingmethodisforapuffpastrymadeusingthetraditionalmethod,withfivesingle
turns(notethatafewoftherecipesinthischapterrequiresixturns).Beforestarting,it’simportanttoreadthroughtheinstructionsseveraltimestofamiliariseyourselfwiththeprocess.
Makesabout1kg(2lb4oz)
500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
10g(¼oz)finesalt
50g(13/4oz)unsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled
250ml(9floz)coldwater
250g(9oz)blockcoldunsaltedbutter
Howtomixthedoughandpreparethebutter
Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment,mixtheflourandsaltonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Addthemeltedbutterandcoldwaterandkneadfor2–3minutes,oruntilsmooth.Thetimeittakesforthedoughto(détrempe)becomesmoothwillvarydependingonthesizeof yourbowl and the speedof themixer, however you shouldnever overmix a puff pastrydoughbecausethiswilldevelopthegluten,makingthedoughelasticandveryhardtoroll.Shapethedoughintoaball(photo1),coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.
Whenthedoughiscold,youwillneedtopreparethebutterforthelaminatingprocess.Placetheblockofcoldbutteronapieceofbakingpaper.Coverwithanotherpieceofbakingpaperandusearollingpintopoundthebutter,turningitregularlyby90degrees,intoarectanglethatmeasuresabout18x20cm(7x8in).Coverthebutterwithplasticwrapandsetaside.
Thelaminatingprocess
Placethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceanddustthetopwithflour.Usingtherollingpin,rollthedoughstartingfromthemiddleandworkingouttowardstheedges(2),toforma16x30cm(6¼x12in)rectangle.Keepmovingthedoughanddustingwithalittleextraflourtostopitsticking—butbefrugalwiththeflour.Ifyoucan’trolloutyourdoughtotheexactdimensions,useyourhandstostretchitintoshape(3,4).Unwrapthebutterandplaceit inthecentreofthedoughrectangle(5).Foldbothendsofthedoughoverthetopsotheymeetinthemiddleofthe
butterandpinchtheendstogether(6).Youshouldendupwitha16x15cm(6¼x6in)rectangle,withthebutterexposedattwoendsandatightlysealedseamoverthetop.
Withoneshortendfacingyou,beginrollingthedoughfromthemiddletothetop(7,8),flouringas needed. Rotate the block 180 degrees and repeat the process until you have a rectangle thatmeasuresabout20x65cm(8x25½in).Foldone-thirdoftherectangleoverintothemiddleoftheblock(9),thenfoldtheotherendoverthetop(10).Thiswillgiveyouasingleturn.
Repeat this process oncemore to get the first two single turns.During theprocess of ‘turning’,makesurethatyoumaintainyouroriginalrectangularshapeeitherbyrollingthedough(11) orstretchingitintoshape,asthisensuresanevendistributionofbutterthroughoutthedough.
Coverthepastryblock(pâton)inplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast3hours.Whenthepastryiscoldandrested,repeattheprocessbygivingthedoughanothertwosingleturns,thenrefrigerateforanother2hours.Finally,turnitoncemore—thisisthelastoffivesingleturns(notethatsomerecipes require six single turns, so add the extra turn at this point, if required).You’ve done it!Refrigerateovernight.
1 2
3 4
5
6 7
8 9
10 11
freezingpuffpastry:
LBynowyouprobablybetterunderstandwhatImeantaboutneedingpatienceandelbowgreasetomakethisdough,butthereisgoodnews!Puffpastrydoughfreezesverywell,soIsuggestyoumakethewholebatchevenifthereciperequiresonlyhalf,andfreezetheleftoverforlater(itwillfreezefor1–2months).However,youwillneedtomakesomeminoradjustments.
AsIhavementionedbefore,wheatflourcontainsaproteincalledgluten(responsibleforthedough’selasticity),which,alongwiththecoagulationofthestarches,trapsthesteamcreatedduringthebakingprocess,underpinningitsabilitytodevelopwhilebaking.Unfortunatelyflouralsocontainsanantioxidantcalledglutathione,whichweakenstheglutenovertime(denaturationprocess),reducingthedough’sabilitytoretainitselasticity.
Toslowdownthedenaturationprocessandextendthelifespanofanydough(ifyouaregoingtofreezeitoruseitafewdayslater),addasmallamountofvitaminC(ascorbicacid)—thesamevitaminCsoldinhealthfoodstores.Simplydissolvea500mgtabletinthewaterforyourdoughandpreparethedoughintheusualway.TheadditionofvitaminCwillalsostoptheflourfromoxidisinganddevelopingbrownspots.
Ascorbicacidisoneofthemainingredientsinmanypowdered‘breadimprovers’usedbyprofessionalbakers,andwhileotherantioxidantssuchasvinegar(aceticacid)orcitricacid(foundinlemonjuice)doslowdowntheoxidationprocess,theydonotslowthedenaturationprocessofthegluten.
Insummary:Ifyouaregoingtofreezeyourdoughorkeepitrefrigeratedtouseatalaterstage,dissolveone500mgvitaminCtabletintothewaterforyourdough(0.1percentoftheweightofflour).Remembertoallowtimeforthefrozenpastrytodefrostbeforebaking.
Allumettesglacées
(Icedpuffpastryfingers)Makeabatchoftheseelegantbite-sizedtreatsforafternoonteaoryournextcocktailparty.Use
someleft-overpuffpastryfromthefreezer,rollitout,thenspreadsomeglaceroyaleoverthetopofthemandwhatyouwillendupwithisasimplebutstunning,lightandairypastry,deliciouswithacupofteaoraglassofwineorChampagne.Moreimportantly,withtheirsmooth,shinyfinishandlongdelicateshape,theywillmakeanotherwiseroutinegatheringwithfriendsseemlikequiteasophisticatedaffair(notguaranteedbythisauthor).
Makes40
500g(1lb2oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns
Royalicing
1eggwhite
250g(9oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,sifted
squeezeoflemonjuice
LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa2.5mm(1/8in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout18x40cm(7x16in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Ifyouhaven’tachievedaperfectlyshapedrectanglewithyourrollingpintowardstheendoftherollingprocess,simplystretchandpullthedoughintoshapeusingyourhands.Placetherolled-outdough(abaisse)onatraylinedwithbakingpaperandrefrigeratefor30minutes.
LMeanwhile,tomaketheroyalicing,puttheeggwhiteandalittleicingsugarinasmallbowlandmixwithaspatulauntilthesugarhasdissolved(seetip).Graduallystirintherestoftheicingsugaruntilafirmpasteforms.Add½teaspoonlemonjuiceandstirvigorouslyforabout3minutes,oruntilsmoothandglossy.Tochecktheconsistencyofyouricing,liftthespatulafromthemixtureandlookforasoftpeak.Iftheicingistoofirm,addafewmoredropsoflemonjuice(conversely,ifit’stoosoft,addmoreicingsugar).Coverthebowlwithadampclothandsetasideatroomtemperature.
LRemovethepastryonthetrayfromthefridge.Usingaflatspatula,spreada1mm(1/32in)thinlayerofroyalicingoverthetop,takingcarethattheicingisspreadevenlyalloverthesurface.Youmaynotneedthewholeamountoficing.Placethepastryinthefreezerfor30
minutes.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaper.Transferthefrozenpastrytoacuttingboard.Usingalargeknife,cutthepastryinto2x9cm(3/4x3½in)rectangles.Toensureneatedges,diptheknifeinhotwaterbeforecuttingthepastrysotheicingdoesn’tsticktotheknife,wipetheknifeclean,thenrepeattheprocess.
LPlaceonthelinedtraysandbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebasesofthepastriesaregolden.Ifyounoticethatthetopisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoilandcontinuebaking.Leavetocoolalittleonthetraysbeforetransferringtoawireracktocoolfor30minutesbeforeserving.
tip
Royal icing is traditionallyusedtopipe intricatedecorationsonweddingorChristmascakesandgingerbreadhouses.Toget thebestresultsalwaysfollowtheserules:
LNeverwhiskthemixture.Anyairpushedintothemixwillmakeitverybrittleanddifficulttopipe,soalwaysuseaflatspatulaandabitof
elbowgrease.
LThelemonjuicehelpstobindthealbumencells(eggprotein)together.Thisimprovestheelasticityoftheicing,butalsoenablesyoutowork
withasoftermixturethatwillsetquicklyandneatly.Alternatively,youcanreplacethelemonjuicewithcreamoftartarorvinegar(aceticacid).
Palmiersauxnoisettes
Palmiersauxnoisettes
(Hazelnutpalmiers)Itwasn’tuntilIbeganworkinginabakerythatIactuallytriedoneofthesesimple,heart-shaped
pastries.Comparedtoalltheotherbrightlycoloured,decadent-lookingalternativesthatlinedtheshelvesofpâtisseries,Ithoughttheylookedalittlesadandboring.Ifinallyrelentedandtriedoneandwassosurprisedtofindhowclevertheyactuallywere—lightandsubtlyflavouredandfilledwithlayersofcrystallisedsugar.Nowadays,palmierscomeinallmannerofsizesandflavours,fromthetraditionalsugaredonestothosefilledwithjam,andevensomesavouryversions.
ForthisrecipeI’veusedafillingofsoftchocolateandhazelnutspread,sprinkledwithroastedhazelnuts,whichnotonlybringsanadditionallayeroftexturebutalsogivesthepastriesaslightlymorerusticedge.Ifyoudon’twanttomakeyourownhazelnutspread,thenbuyagood-qualitypralineorhazelnutpasteandnotthemorereadilyavailableversionsthatarehighinsugarandfat,asthesedon’tholdupaswellduringbaking.
Makesabout25
note:Youwillneedtogiveanadditionalsingleturntothepuffpastry,torefinethelayersofpastryandtostop
thepalmierfromexpandingexcessivelyduringthebakingprocess.
150g(5¼oz)rawhazelnuts,roastedandskinned(seetip)
1kg(2lb4oz)coldPuffPastry,6singleturns
300g(10¼oz)HazelnutandChocolateSpread
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Wraptheskinnedhazelnutsinacleancloth,thensmashthenutsintheclothwiththebaseofaheavy-basedsaucepanuntilcoarselycrushed.Setthenutsaside.
LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa4mm(1/8in)thickrectanglemeasuring40x50cm(16x20in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Ifyouhaven’tachievedaperfectlyshapedrectanglewithyourrollingpintowardstheendoftherollingprocess,simplystretchandpullthedoughintoshapeusingyourhands.
LUsingaflatspatula,spreadthehazelnutandchocolatepasteevenlyoverthepastry,righttotheedges,thensprinklewiththecrushedhazelnuts.Don’tbetemptedtoapplyathickerlayer;thepalmierismadeoffourlayersofpastry,soifthehazelnutspreadistoothickthedoughwon’tcookproperly,andthere’snothingworsethanundercookedpuffpastry!Withonelongsideof
therolled-outdough(abaisse)facingyou,useyourhandstorollthetwolongsidesofthepastrytowardseachothertomeetinthemiddle.Foldthebottomhalfoverthetoptoformalog.Ifthepastryistoosofttohandle,refrigerateitfor30minutes,oruntilfirm.
LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaper.Usingalargeknife,cuttherollinto2cm(3/4in)thickslicesandplaceonthelinedtrays,leavinga10cm(4in)gapbetweeneachastheyaregoingtodoubleinsizeduringcooking.Asyouwillneedtocookthepalmiersinbatches,itisagoodideatorefrigeratetheremainingpastrieswhilethefirstbatchiscooking.
LBakefor10minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto160°C(320°F)andbakeforanother30minutes,oruntilthebottomofthepastriesaregoldenbrown.Puffpastryneedsaninitialburstofheattodevelop,butthemajorityofthecookingtimeisdesignedtodryitupasmuchaspossible.Ifthetopsdarkentoofast,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Repeatwiththeremainingpastries.Transfertoawireracktocoolfor1hourbeforeserving.
roastingandskinninghazelnuts
Preheat theoven to200°C(400°F).Put thehazelnutsonabaking trayandroast for10–15minutes,oruntil theybegin to turndarkbrown.Useaspatulatomovethenutsaroundevery5minutesorso.Everyovencooksdifferently,sokeepaneyeonthem,especiallytowardstheendofcooking.Removefromtheovenandwhencoolenoughtohandle,rollthehazelnutsaroundinyourhandstorubofftheskins.
Feuilletésricotta-figue
(Ricottaandfigpastries)Feuilletéisageneraltermusedtodescribesweetorsavourypastriesmadefrompuffpastry.It
usuallyreferstoasimplesquareofpastrytoppedwithafruit,creamorwhateverelseticklesyourfancyandisagreatwaytouseupyouroffcuts—simplyrolloutthedough,cutittoshapeandfreezeforlateruse.Thisisagreatexampleofthefactthat,moreoftenthannot,thebestpastriesareoftentheresultofrestraintandsimplicity.
Makes18
400g(14oz)freshricottacheese,drainedwell
200g(7oz)Greek-styleyoghurt
finelygratedzestof1lemon
100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar,plusextra,forsprinkling
3vanillabeans,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped
200g(7oz)honey,preferablylavender
9ripefigs,halvedlengthways
2eggs
1eggyolk
pinchoffinesalt
500g(1lb2oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns
LPutthericotta,yoghurt,lemonzest,sugar,vanillabeanseedsand2tablespoonsofthehoneyinafoodprocessorandprocessfor1minute,oruntilsmooth.Transfertoabowl,coverandrefrigerate.Sprinklethefigsgenerouslywiththeextrasugarandsetaside.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaper.Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggs,eggyolkandsalttogetherinasmallbowl,thensetaside.
LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa3mm(1/8in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout25x35cm(10x14in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Ifyouhaven’tachievedaperfectlyshapedrectanglewithyourrollingpintowardstheendoftherollingprocess,simplystretchandpullthedoughintoshapeusingyourhands.
LUsingalargeknife,cutthepastryintoeighteen6x8cm(2½x3¼in)rectangles.Trynottoruntheknifethroughthedoughwhenyoucuttheshapes,asthisdamagesthefragilelayersofpastry.Instead,pushthetipoftheknifethroughthedoughfirst,thenletthekniferolldown,followingthecurvatureoftheblade.Usingaflatspatula,carefullyplacethepastriesonthelinedtrays,spacingthemabout4cm(1½in)apart.
LPut1tablespoonofthericottamixtureinthecentreofeachrectangle,leavingasmuchexposedpastryaspossiblearoundthesides.Gentlypushafighalfintothericottamixture,placingthemcutsideup.Carefullybrushtheexposedpuffpastrywiththeeggwash.Whenbrushingeggwashoverpuffpastry,trynottodripanyoftheeggmixtureoverthesides,becausethiswillmakeitharderforthepastrytoriseevenly.Drizzle1teaspoonhoneyoverthefigsoneachpastry.
LBakefor20minutes,oruntilthepastryhasrisenandisgolden.Thecookingtimeswillvaryalittledependingonyouroven,soalwayscheckthatthebottomofthepastriesaregoldenbeforeremovingthemfromtheoven.Serveatroomtemperaturewithacupofcoffee,orwarmwiththick(double/heavy)creamoryoghurt.
DouillonsdepommesauCalvadosetgoussedevanille
(BakedapplesinpastrywithCalvadosandvanillabean)IwaseightyearsoldwhenmyfamilymovedfromNicetoPetit-Couronne,asmalltowninthe
Normandyregion.Normandyisamostlyagriculturalarea,dottedwithappleorchardsandlushgreendairyandcattlepastures,somuchoftheproduceisveryrichandearthy,withlotsofcreams,buttersandheartystews.AlthoughIhadalreadytravelledwithmyfamilyaroundmostofEasternandCentralEurope,samplingexoticfoodsandspecialtiesfarremovedfromwhatIwasaccustomedto,itwasnotuntilwemovedtoNormandythatIbegantorealisehowdiversethefoodwaswithinmyowncountry,andjusthowmuchourfoodandrecipesareshapedbyandintimatelyconnectedtosomanythings—ourlocallandscape,theweather,ourhistoryandtraditions.
ItwasinNormandythatItriedmyfirstdouillondepommes,abeautifullysweetandflakyapplepie,packedfullofcaramelandbutter.ItwasalsothefirsttimeIdrankrawmilkstraightfromthefarm,ateatartetatin—andthecheeses…!Thesedisheswereallmadefromlocalandseasonalingredients,perfectlydesignedtokeepyouwarmduringthoselongwinternights,thelikesofwhichI’dneverexperiencedbefore.
Serves6
1kg(2lb4oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns
finelygratedzestandjuiceof2oranges
100ml(3½floz)Calvados
6smallapples(reinetteorreddelicious)
100g(3½oz)softunsaltedbutter
100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
2eggs
1eggyolk
pinchoffinesalt
3vanillabeans
LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa2.5mm(1/8in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout40x70cm(16x27½in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Usinga9cm(3½in)roundcutter,stampoutsixroundsforthebases,thenusea20cm(8in)roundcuttertostampoutsixroundsforthetops.Don’tbetemptedtodividethepastryinhalfbeforeyoudothis,becauseyouwillneedmorepastryforthetopsthanthebases.Dusteachroundwithalittleflour,
thenplaceonatraylinedwithbakingpaper.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor1hour.
LMeanwhile,puttheorangezest,orangejuiceand50ml(13/4floz)ofCalvadosinalargebowlandsetaside.Peeltheapplesandcorethemwithanapplecorerorasharpparingknife,thenplaceinthebowlwiththeorangejuicemixture.Turntheapplesinthemixturetomakesuretheyarecoatedintheliquid,tostopthemoxidising.Setaside,turningtheapplesaroundinthebowloccasionally.
LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthebutterandtheremainingCalvadosuntilcombined.Ifthemixturelookssplit,heatthebowlalittleoverahotflameorruntheoutsideofthebowlunderveryhotwater,thenbeatagainuntilwellcombined.
LPreheattheovento200°C(400°F).Linealargebakingtraywithbakingpaper.Placeoneofthepastrybases(thesmallerrounds)onthelinedtray,leavingtherestinthefridge.Drainoneappleandpatdry,thenfillthehollowed-outcorewithagenerousamountofCalvadosbutter.Placeateaspoonofthebutterontopandsprinklegenerouslywithsugar.Removeoneofthepastrytops(thelargerrounds)fromthefridgeandusea1cm(½in)roundpastrycutteroraparingknifetocutoutasmallholeinthemiddle.Placethepastryovertheappleandfoldthepastryaroundit,tryingnottocreatetoomanyoverlapsofpastrytowardsthebottom.Usingasharpknifeorapairofscissors,cutofftheexcesspastryaroundthebottom.
LTomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggs,eggyolkandsaltinasmallbowl.Brushalittleeggwashoverthepastrybase,thensittheappleinthemiddleofthebase.Pressdownfirmlytojointhetopandbasetogether,thenbrushalloverwitheggwash.Usingthebackofaparingknife,scoreageometricdesignoverthepastry,beingcarefulnottocutallthewaythrough.Tofinish,cutthevanillabeansinhalfandpushahalfthroughtheholeinthetop,toresembleanapplestem.Repeattheprocesswiththeremainingapplesandpastryrounds.
LPlacethedouillonsintheovenandbakefor20minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto190°C(375°F)andbakeforanother45minutes,oruntilgolden.Ifyoufindyourpastryisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Removefromtheovenandservehotwithmascarponeorthick(double/heavy)cream.
P ithiviers
(Frangipanepie)Forthispie,wewilltravelnorthtothemunicipalityofPithiviersintheLoireValleyregion.This
verytraditionalpie,bakedfortheEpiphanyonthesixthofJanuary,isalsocalled‘kings’cake’orgalettedesrois,referringtolesroismages,orthethreewisemen(kings).Thegaletteismadeofpuffpastryandfrangipane,amoistalmondcream,andalwayscontainsasmallceramicfigurecalledafève(meaningbroadbean,asthisiswhatwasoriginallyused).Theideaisthatthepersonwhofindsthefèveisthencrownedkingorqueenfortheday.IhaveneverforgottenthatwonderfulsenseofanticipationIfeltasachild,justbeforewecutthecake,hopingitwouldbemewhofoundthefève.
Awordofwarning:ifyouarebakingthispieforaFrenchperson,neverforgetthefèveandapapercrown,orthesmallchildinsideyourguestwillbeshattered!
Serves8
1kg(2lb4oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns
1egg
pinchoffinesalt
Frangipane
200g(7oz)AlmondCream
100g(3½oz)Custard
fewdropsofalmondessence,totaste
LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick.Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Usingacaketinordinnerplateasaguide,cutouta25cm(10in)circleforthebaseandaslightlylarger26cm(10½in)circleforthetop.Placethepastryroundsontwobakingtrayslinedwithbakingpaperandfreezefor15minutes.
LMeanwhile,tomakethefrangipane,useahand-heldwhisktobeatthealmondcreamandcustardtogetheruntilsmooth,thenaddthealmondessenceandcombinewell.Befrugalwithyouralmondessence,asitcanoverpowerthemainflavourofyourdish.
LPreheattheovento185°C(365°F).Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggandsalt
togetherinasmallbowlandsetaside.Removethepastryfromthefreezerandspreadthefrangipanemixtureontothesmallercircle,leavinga3cm(1¼in)borderaroundtheedge.Gentlypushthefèveintothefrangipane.Lightlybrusharoundtheedgewitheggwash,thenplacethelargerpastrycircleoverthetopandgentlypressaroundtheedgetoseal.Brushthetopwitheggwash,takingcarenottodripanyoftheeggmixtureovertheside,becausethiswillmakeitharderforthepastrytoriseevenly.Usingthebackofaparingknife,scorecurvedlinesonthetop,radiatingfromthecentretotheoutsideedge.
LBakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor40minutes,oruntilthebaseofthepieisgolden.Puffpastryneedstobecookedatarelativelyhightemperatureforalongtimetogetthebestheightandflakiness.Ifyoufindthetopisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoilandcontinuebaking.Transfertoawireracktocoolandserveatroomtemperature,withacrownfortheluckyfinderofthefève.
Frangipaneoralmondcream?Thesecreamsareoftenconfusedor,atleast,almondcreamisoftenerroneouslycalledfrangipane.Whiletheybothusesimilaringredients,theirtextureandtasteareverydifferent.Almondcreamismadeofalmonds,butter,sugarandeggs,sometimeswithflourorcustardaddedtoit.Itcontainsaproportionallylargeamountofdryingredientsandisusedasabasecreamforallkindsoffruittarts.Frangipane,ontheotherhand,useslessdryingredientsandalwaysincludesbitteralmondsoralmondessenceforflavourandfragrance.Frangipaneisusedasafillingandresemblesadensecustard.
Batonsgruyère-parmesan
(Cheesesticks)AtypicalFrenchbreakfastusuallyconsistsofacroissantoratoastedbaguettetartinewithjam,
orsomeothersweetpastry—I,forone,wouldneverthinktoeatanythingsavourysuchasthesecheesesticks,insteadreservingthemforanapéritiforafternoonsnack,maybewithafewgreenolivesandaglassofredwine.InAustralia,however,theyhavebecomeverypopularasaquicksnackforbreakfast.IrememberhowIusedtoshakemyheadinbewildermentasIwatchedcustomerswalkingoutoftheshopearlyinthemorningwithafewcheesesticksinonehandandacoffeeintheother.Itdidn’ttakemelongtochangemymind.Now,Iamoftencaughtearlyinthemorning,scavengingallthebrokencheesesticksandnibblingontheburntgruyèreleftoveronthebakingtrays.
Makes15
300g(10½oz)gruyèrecheese,grated
80g(23/4oz)parmesancheese,grated
3eggs
pinchoffinesalt
1kg(2lb4oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns
2teaspoonsfinelygroundblackpepper
LCombinethegruyèreandparmesaninasmallbowlandputinthefreezerfor1hour.Whenthecheesehasfrozen,placeonachoppingboardandchopintothesmallestpiecespossible,thenreturntothefreezer.
LMeanwhile,tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsaltinasmallbowlandsetaside.Preheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaper.
LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa3mm(1/8in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout20x60cm(8x24in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Towardstheendofrolling,feelfreetouseyourhandstostretchthepastryintoshape.
LBrushasmallamountofeggwashoverthetopofthepastry,thensprinkleagenerousamountofthechoppedcheeseevenlyoverthetop,goingallthewaytotheedges.Usingarollingpin,gentlyrolloverthetopofthecheesetomakesureitstickstothedoughduringthetwisting
process.Sprinklethepepperevenlyoverthetopofthecheese.
LWithonelongsideofthepastryfacingyou,andusingalargeknife,cutthepastryintofifteen4cm(1½in)widestrips.Takeonestripandplaceitontheworksurface,cheesesidedownandwiththelongsidefacingyou.Usingyourpalms,gentlyrolloneendofthestripinadownwardsdirectionwhilerollingtheotherendinanupwardsdirection.Lengthenthetwisttoabout20cm(8in)byrollingitwithbothyourhands,workingfromthemiddleout.Placeonthelinedtrays,spacingthemabout4cm(1½in)apart.
LBakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor20minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto160°C(320°F)andcookforanother15minutes,oruntildry.Itisessentialthatthecheesesticksarecrispandflakysomakesuretheyarecookedthrough.Ifyoufindtheyarebrowningtooquickly,placeapieceoffoillooselyoverthetopandcontinuebakinguntilcrisp.Removefromtheovenandcoolonawirerackforatleast30minutesbeforeserving.Thesecheesesticks,aswellasmostpastriesmadefrompuff,freezeverywellpriortobeingbaked,somakemorethanyouneedandfreezetheresttouseanothertime.
tip
Gruyèreistheperfectcheesetouseincheesesticksbecauseithasamildflavourwithjusttherightamountofsalt,itaddsahintofsweetnessand,moreimportantly, it stays relativelydryduringbaking.Theonlyothercheesesuitable forcheesesticks ischeddar.Neverusea softpizzacheese, suchasprovoloneormozzarella,becausetheyaretoosoftwhenmeltedandwillstopthepuffpastryfromdryingoutproperly.
Rouladesàlatapenadeetauhaloumi
(Olivetapenadeandhaloumiswirls)OlivetapenadehasbeenusedinProvençalcookingforover2000years,probablybecausethe
olivetreewasoneofthefewtreesresilientenoughtosurvivetheharshclimaticconditionsofthearea.Oliveshavebeencultivatedformillenniaandusedinallmannerofproducts,fromoliveoilsandpickles,tohairconditionersandherbalmedicines.IhavelovedeatingolivessinceIwasachild,butitwasn’tuntilIstartedworkinginaMichelin-starredrestaurantinMarseille(whichfeaturedolivesandtapenadesinmanyofitsfinedishes)thatIrealisedhowversatiletheytrulywereandhow,withalittlebitofimagination,theycouldbeusedinalmostanycapacity,fromcondimentsformeatsandfish,tospreadsforbreadsandcrackers,andevendesserts.
Theserouladesaremadewithagreenolivetapenade—anamederivedfromtheProvençalwordforcapers,tapenas—whichismadebycrushingolives,capersandanchovieswitholiveoil.Thismiraculousconcoctioncanbestoredalmostindefinitelyinyourfridge,andusedontoast,spreadoveragrilledsteak,usedasyouwouldpestoonpasta,orasacondimenttoflavoursaucesandcreams.
Makesabout80
note:Youwillneedtogiveanadditionalsingleturntothepuffpastry,torefinethelayersofpastryandtostop
therouladefromexpandingexcessivelyduringthebakingprocess.
500g(1lb2oz)coldPuffPastry,6singleturns
oliveoil,forpan-frying
300g(10½oz)haloumicheese,roughlychopped
Olivetapenade
300g(10½oz)greenolives,pitted
50g(13/4oz)smallcapersinbrine,drained
50g(13/4oz)anchovyfillets
juiceof1lemon
½teaspoongroundblackpepper
80ml(23/4floz)virginoliveoil,plusextra,ifneeded
LTomakethetapenade,puttheolives,capers,anchovies,lemonjuiceandpepperinafood
processor.Withthemotorrunning,graduallyaddtheoliveoilandprocessuntilathick,spreadablepasteforms.Youmayneedtoaddalittleextraoiltoachievetherightconsistency.Transfertoasmallbowl,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilneeded.
LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa2mm(1/16in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout35x40cm(14x16in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Towardstheendofrolling,feelfreetouseyourhandstostretchthepastryintoshape.Forthesesmallroulades,itisimportantthatthepastryisrollednothickerthan2mm(1/16in)orthespiralwillcomeundoneduringbaking.Cuttherectangleinhalflengthwayssoyouendupwithtwo40cm(16in)longstrips,thendustalittleflouroverthetop.Placeonalinedtrayandrefrigeratefor30minutes.
LHeatadrizzleofoliveoilinafryingpanoverhighheat.Assoonastheoilbeginstosmoke,addthehaloumiandcookfor1minute,stirringcontinuouslyuntillightgoldenallover.Removeanddrainonpapertowelandsetasideuntilcooledtoroomtemperature.
LLightlydusttheworksurfacewithflour.Takeonehalfofthepastryoutofthefridgeandplaceitontheworksurface,withonelongsidefacingyou.Usingaspatula,spreadhalfofthetapenadeevenlyoverthetopofthepastry,thenscatterwithhalfofthehaloumi.Usethepalmofyourhandtogentlypushdownonthehaloumi.Rollthepastryupintoatightroulade,startingfromthetopleft-handcornerandworkingyourwayacrosstotheright.Puttherouladeinthefreezerfor30minutestofirmup.Repeattheprocesswiththeremainingpastry,tapenadeandhaloumi.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaper.Removeonerouladefromthefreezerandplaceit,seamsidedown,onacuttingboard.Usingalargeknife,cuttherouladeinto1cm(½in)thickslices,holdingitinshapewhilecutting.Pickuponepieceatatime,thenplaceonthelinedbakingtrays,spacingthemabout3cm(1¼in)apart.Placeapieceofbakingpaperontopofthepastriesandcoverwithanotherbakingtray.Bakefor15minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto170°C(340°F),removethetoptrayandpaperandbakeforanother15minutes,oruntilgolden.Removeandcoolonwireracks.Repeatwiththeremainingroulade.
LServewarmoratroomtemperature.Thesubtlesaltinessofthetapenadeanddelicateflakinessofthepuffpastrymaketheserouladesanidealcanapé.Servethemwithsomecheeseandaglassofwine,orwithpâtéorporkrillettes.
tips
Ifyouwanttofreezetheroulades,dosobeforecookingthem:wraptheslicedrouladepiecesinplasticwrap.Tocook,placethefrozenrouladeslicesin
thefridgetothaw,thenbakeaspertherecipeinstructions.
Toachieveaperfectlycircularshape,usearoundcutterthatbestfitsthesizeofyourrouladesandusethattocuttheexcesspastryoffassoonastheycomeoutoftheoven.
Tarteaupotironetauxlardons
(Speckandpumpkintart)ThisspeckandpumpkinsavourytartisverycommoninthesouthofFrance,mainlyduetothe
factthatpumpkinfavoursamoretemperateclimate.Pumpkintartislargelyaprovincialspecialty,foundmostlyinsmallvillagebakeriesorontheshelvesoffreshfoodmarketsratherthaninthemorecosmopolitanbakeriesoflargetownsandcities.
Ifyouoverlookitsunderstatedanddecidedlyrusticlook,youwillberewardedwithaperfectlybalancedandmoisttart,withundertonesofhazelnutsandhoneythatcanbeenjoyedasamid-afternoontreat,orservedasourfamilylikestodo,asanaccompanimentforaSundayroast.
Serves6–8
500g(1lb2oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns
1egg
1eggyolk
pinchoffinesalt
Filling
600g(1lb5oz)butternut(squash),japorkentpumpkin
50g(13/4oz)unsaltedbutter
150ml(5floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
2eggs,lightlybeaten
¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg
¼teaspoongroundblackpepper
finesalt,totaste
200g(7oz)piecespeck,baconorprosciutto,cutinto1cm(½in)cubes
LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick.Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustingwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,reservingthepastryscraps.Refrigerateboththetartshellandscrapsfor30minutes.
LMeanwhile,tomakethefilling,peelthepumpkin,removetheseedsandcutitinto4cm(1½in)cubes.Bringalargesaucepanoflightlysaltedwatertotheboiloverhighheat.Addthepumpkin,thenreducetheheattomedium,coverandcookfor15minutes,oruntiltender.Removefromtheheatanddrain.Putthehotpumpkinintoafoodprocessorwiththebutter,cream,eggs,nutmegandpepperandprocessuntilsmoothandcreamy.Seasontotastewithsalt,thensetasidetocool.
LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F).Removethetinfromthefridgeandlinethetartshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebottomofthetartshellisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.Reducetheoventemperatureto180°C(350°F).
LMeanwhile,placeafryingpanoverhighheatfor2minutesoruntilhot,thenaddthespeckandcook,stirringcontinuously,for8–10minutes,oruntilthespeckisgoldenandthefathasmelted.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowel.Thisprocessiscalledrenderinganditisdesignedtomeltthefatinyourmeat,removeimpuritiesandimprovetheoverallflavourandtexture.Stirthespeckintothecooledpumpkinpurée,thenpourthepumpkinfillingintothetartshell.
LTomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheegg,eggyolkandsalttogetherinasmallbowlandsetaside.Rolloutthereservedpuffpastryscrapsonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa2mm(1/16in)thickrectanglethatmeasuresatleast25cm(10in)wide.Cutthepastryintothin5mm(¼in)strips.Laythestripsoverthefilling,arrangingthemparalleltoeachotherandspacingthemabout2cm(3/4in)apart.Rotatethetart45degreesandrepeattheprocess.Thissimplifiedlatticedesignisalotfasterandeasiertoexecutethanaweavedlatticeonalargetartandstilllooksrusticandelegantafterbaking.Ifyoupreferthetraditionallatticedesign,refertothephotographasaguide.Brushtheeggwashneatlyoverthelatticetopandaroundtheedgeofthepie,thenbakefor30minutes,oruntilthepastryisgolden.Servewarmwithatablespoonofthick(double/heavy)cream,andagreensalad.
salttotaste
I rarely recommend a dosage for salt in savoury recipes, because the amount of salt you need can vary dramatically, depending on how long youreducedasaucetothetypeofingredientsyouchose(eveniftheyarethesameasthoseIhaverecommended,differentproductscanvaryinsaltiness)and,ofcourse,yourpersonaltaste.Mostfoodsneedalittlesalttoenhancetheflavour,butaswithmostotherspicesandcondiments,therightamountismostlybasedonyourownpreferences.Forthisreason,Iusuallysuggest ‘salt, totaste’or,whenmakinganythingwherethevolumeofsaucewillreduceasitcooks,itisbesttoseasonattheendofcooking.
Tartegratinée
(Potatoandcreamtart)Thistartisbasedontherecipeforgratindauphinois,whichwasdevelopedover300yearsagoby
AugusteEscoffier,oneofthepioneersofFrenchgastronomy.Thisrecipefortartegratinéedifferssomewhatfromtheoriginalasitcontainsasmallamountofcheeseandeggs.Theideabehindusingthisversionoverthetraditionaloneisbecausethecheeseandeggswillhelpbindthetarttogether,makingitaloteasiertoserve,transformingthisdelicious,ifsomewhatmessy,gratinintoaneasy-to-handlepicnictreat.
Serves6–8
500g(1lb2oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns
500g(1lb2oz)potatoes,suchasrusset(idaho),desireeorpontiac
700ml(24floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg
3teaspoonsfinesalt,ortotaste
½teaspoongroundblackpepper
3eggs
150g(5½oz)gruyèrecheese,grated
LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick.Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustingwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry.Refrigeratefor30minutes.
LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F).Removethetinfromthefridgeandlinethetartshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseofthetartshellisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.Reducetheoventemperatureto160°C(320°F).
LMeanwhile,peel,washanddrythepotatoes.Usingamandolinortheslicingattachmentonafoodprocessor,cutthepotatoesinto2mm(1/16in)thinslices.Youcanusealargeknifetoslicethepotatoes,butyouneedtomakesuretheyareallthesamethickness,toensurethepotatocooksevenly.
LPutthecream,nutmeg,saltandpepperinalargesaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhigh
heat.Assoonasthecreamcomestotheboil,removefromtheheatandaddtheslicedpotatoes.Coverwithalidandsetasidefor15minutes,oruntilcooltothetouch,thenpourthepotatoesintoasieveplacedoverabowl.Whisktheeggsintothecreammixture,thenstirinhalfthegruyère.
LStartingfromtheoutsideedge,arrangethepotatoslices,slightlyoverlapping,aroundthecircumferenceofthetin.Repeatwiththeremainingpotatoes,workingallthewaytothemiddleofthetart.Placethetartontheovenshelf,thenpourinthecreammixture,leavingthetopedgesofthepotatoslicesexposed.Sprinkletheremaininggruyèreoverthetop.
LBakefor45minutes,thenincreasetheoventemperatureto190°C(375°F)andbakeforanother10–15minutes,oruntilthepotatoesarecookedthroughandthecheeseisgolden.Tocheckifthepotatoesarecooked,insertthetipofaparingknifeintothetart—ifyoufeelanyresistance,cookforanother5minutes,thencheckagain.Removefromtheovenandcoolforatleast15minutesbeforeremovingfromthetin.Thisisdeliciousservedhotorcold,withagreensaladtossedwithasharpvinegardressing.
technicaltip
Therearetwotypesofnon-enzymaticbrowningandthetermsforeachareoftenerroneouslyused.YoumighthavenoticedthatthroughoutthisbookItendtousetheword‘golden’andnot ‘caramelised’todescribethebrowningofcheese(asforthistart),meatsorfish.Thisisbecause‘caramelising’describesthebrowningthatoccurswhensucrose(notprotein)isheated.ThisisdifferentfromtheMaillardreaction,atermusedtodescribeaseriesofchemicalreactionsthatoccurbetweenaminoacidsandreducingsugarswhenproteins(meat,fish,dairyproducts)areheated.Sweetvegetablessuchascarrots,beetroot(beets)orsweetpotatoeswillbesubjectedtobothcaramelisationandtheMaillardreactionduringthebrowningprocess,becausetheycontainbothsucroseandprotein.
TarteaufromagedeBanon
(Goat’scheese,tomatoandbasiltart)WhenmysisterandIwereyoung,wespentoursummerholidaysatmygrandparents’housein
Ongles,atinyProvençalvillagesurroundedbyfieldsoflavender,wildthymeandsunflowers.EveryweekendtheytookustoBanon,asmalltownshipfamousworldwideforitstraditionalspecialties,includingadonkeysausageandtheverywellrenownedBanongoat’scheese,asmallcircularcheesemadeofrawgoat’smilk,wrappedinchestnutleaves.Thistartremindsmeofthosehappysummerweekends,whenwewouldhuddleundertheyellowawningofthelocalcafétoescapethescorchingheat,sippingonarefreshingorgeatsyrup,hungrilyscoffingdownacoldtartelettedeBanon.IlovethistartforthefactthatitissorepresentativeofProvençalcooking:simple,almostrusticandmadewithlocallysourcedingredients.
Serves6–8
500g(1lb2oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns
2roma(plum)tomatoes,verythinlysliced
10blackolives
180g(6¼oz)Banongoat’scheese,orotherfreshgoat’scheese,crumbled
2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil
Sauce
1tablespoonextravirginoliveoil
1onion,finelychopped
400g(14oz)cherrytomatoes,quartered
2garliccloves,thinlysliced
3thymesprigs,leavespicked
1teaspoongroundblackpepper
10largebasilleaves,plusextra,toserve
finesalt,totaste
LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)ringtinortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick.Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustingwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry.Refrigeratefor30minutes.
LMeanwhile,tomakethesauce,heattheoliveoilinasaucepanovermedium–highheat.Assoonastheoilbeginstosmoke,addtheonion,thenreducetheheattomediumandcookfor10minutes,stirringregularlyuntiltheonionisgolden.Addthetomatoes,garlic,thymeandpepper,thencoverandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,for15minutes,oruntilthickenedandreduced.Towardstheendofcooking,tearthebasilleavesintothesauceandseasontotastewithsalt.Removefromtheheat,coverwithaclothandsetasideuntilcooledtoroomtemperature.
LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F).Removethetinfromthefridgeandlinethetartshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.Reducetheoventemperatureto180°C(350°F).
LSpreadthecooledsauceoverthebaseofthetartshell.Makesureyoursauceiscool,asawarmsaucewillsoftenthethinlayersofpuffpastry,resultinginasoggybase.Placetheslicedtomatoesoverthetop,arrangingtheminslightlyoverlappingconcentriccircles,thenscatterovertheolivesandgoat’scheese.Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor25minutes,oruntilthepastryisgolden.Drizzletheoliveoiloverthetomatoes,thenscatterwiththeextrabasilleavesandservewarm.Ifyouprefertoserveitcold(mypersonalfavourite)asamid-afternoontreatorfordinner,refrigerateuntilneededandonlygarnishwiththebasilwhenyouarereadytoserve.
tip
Thethymeandbasilwilltakeawhiletoinfusethesauceproperly,sothistartwilltasteevenbetterafterafewdays.Simplyreheatitina180°C(350°F)ovenfor5minutes.
Croissants
‘Nothingiscreated,nothingislost,allistransformed.’
ANTOINELAVOISIER
Croissant
Croissants
Fromafreshlybakedbaguettetoabowlofcaféaulait,thecroissantissomuchapartofthefabricofdailyFrenchlifethatit’shardtobelieveitisn’treallyFrench.Therearecountlessstoriesabouthowandwherethispastryoriginated,withmosttheoriessuggestingthatitwasMarieAntoinette,originallyfromVienna,whointroducedtheAustriankipferl(arolled-upplainbrioche)totheFrenchRoyalCourt.Itwasn’tuntillaterthataFrenchbakerinventedthemethodoflayeringbutterinasweetbreaddough,which,inturn,ledtothecreationofpuffpastry,Danishpastryand,ofcourse,thefamedbuttercroissantweknowandlovetoday.ItisnotentirelyclearwhythecroissanthasbecomesocloselyassociatedwithFrenchculture;however,whatisclearisthattherereallyisnosuchthingasatrue‘local’creation.Asmuchaswemightthinkotherwise,allourfavouritespecialtiesareinfactjustthelaststepinalonglineofsmallimprovementsthathavebeenmadeovermanyyears,allsubjectiveandbearingwitnesstothevariousinfluencesofalonglineofbakers.
Asasmallboy,Irememberlookinglonginglyatthebasketsfilledwithgoldenbrownpastriesthatadornedthewindowofmylocalpâtisserie,andevennowIcanstillrememberthewarm,butterysmellthatwaftedoutthedoor.Ilovedtryingtocatchaglimpseofthepaleanddishevelledbakerinside,rollingthosesmalltrianglesofdoughintocroissantsatwarpspeed,thetraysofperfectlyshapedcrescentsofdoughglisteningunderthefluorescentlights.Now,everytimeIseeasmallchildlookingupatmewhenIaminthekitchenrollingcroissants,thesamewayit’sbeendoneforahundredyears,IwonderifheseesthemagicofthemomentasIdidallthoseyearsago,orifallheseesisapaleanddishevelledmiddle-agedmanplayingwithflour.
Pâteàcroissant
Pâteàcroissant
(Croissantdough)Thisviennoiserieisnotoriouslytrickytomakebecauseitencompassesnotonlytheartofmixing
ayeasteddough,butalsothefiddlyprocessoflaminating,or‘turning’,thedoughwithbutter.Unlikepuffpastry,thecroissantdoughcontainsyeastandhasapropensitytostartprovingduringthelaminatingprocessifyourworkingenvironmentistoowarm.Addedtothataretheproblemsyouwillfaceifyourbutterbeginstosoftentoomuch.SobepatientandfamiliariseyourselfwithyouringredientsbyreadingthechapteronEssentialIngredientsandtheentireprocessdescribedinthisstep-by-stepsectionbeforeyoubegin.Trustme,therewardsoflookingatyourcroissantsslowlydevelopingintheovenandtheprideyouwillfeelwhenyouservethesebeautifullyflakypastriestoyourfriendsandfamilywillfarexceedtheeffortspentinmakingthem.
Makesabout1kg(2lb4oz)
500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)
60g(2¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar
2teaspoonsfinesalt
10g(¼oz)driedyeast
300ml(10½floz)full-creammilk
270g(9½oz)blockcoldunsaltedbutter
Howtomixthedoughandpreparethebutter
Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment,mixtheflour,sugar,saltandyeast(photo1)onlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Graduallyaddthemilk(2)andmixfor5minutes.Atthis stage thedough shouldbe firmbutnotdry. If themixture looks toohardor if yourmixerfindsithardtomixproperly,add1–2tablespoonsofextramilktosoftenitup.Sometypesofflouror floursmadefromdifferent typesofwheathavedifferentratesofabsorptionandmayrequiremoreliquidthanothers.
After5minutes,increasethespeedslightlyandmixforanother10minutes,oruntilthedoughissmoothandcomesaway fromthe sideof thebowl (3).Be carefulwhen increasing the speedofyourmixer; thisdoughcanbehardonsmallmixers, so ifyou feel likeyourmixer is struggling,reducethespeedandmixforafewminuteslonger.
Stopthemixer,removethedoughandplaceinabowl.Lightlydustwithflour(4)andcoverwithacleancloth.Setasideinawarmplaceforthefirstprove(pointage)for1hour,oruntilincreasedinsizebyhalf.Alwayscheckonhowfastyourdoughisproving.Thefirstproveismeanttostimulate
theyeastonly,soassoonas thedoughincreasesbyroughlyhalfof itsoriginalsize, transfer toatray linedwithbakingpaper. Flatten thedoughover the tray asmuch as you can to remove asmanygasbubblesaspossible.Coverthetraywithplasticwrapandrefrigerateonthetopshelfforatleast1hour.
Whenthedough(détrempe)iscold,youwillneedtopreparethebutterforthelaminatingprocess.Thisinvolvespoundingthecoldbutterintoarectangleroughlyhalfthesizeofyourdough.Todothis,placetheblockofcoldbutteronapieceofbakingpaper,coverwithanotherpieceofbakingpaperandusearollingpintopoundthebutter,turningitregularlyby90degrees,intoarectangleabout18x20cm(7x8in).Coverthebutterinplasticwrapandsetaside.
1 2
3 4
cookingtip:
LIdeally,theprovingprocessshouldbedoneinahumidity-controlledenvironmentbecausethedoughhasatendencytodryoutwhenexposedtodryairso,ifyoucan,proveyourcroissantsinanenclosedspacesuchasacupboardoryouroven(turnedoff)tostopthemdryingout.
Thelaminatingprocess
Placethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceanddustthetopwithflour(5).Rollthedoughfromthemiddleallthewaytotheedgesintoa20x35cm(8x14in)rectangle.Keepmovingthedough and dustingwith a little extra flour to stop it sticking (be frugal with the flour you useduringthisprocess).Ifyoucan’trollyourdoughouttotheexactdimensions,useyourhandstostretchitintoshape.Rotatethedough90degrees.
Unwrapthebutterandplaceitinthecentreofthedoughrectangle.Foldbothendsofthedoughover the top so theymeet in themiddle of the butter and pinch the ends together (6, 7). Youshouldendupwitha20x18cm(8x7in)rectangle,withthebutterexposedattwoends,andatightlysealedseamoverthetop.
Withoneshortendfacingyou,beginrollingthedoughfromthemiddletothetop(8),flouringasneeded. Rotate the block 180 degrees and repeat the process until you have a rectangle thatmeasuresabout20x65cm(8x25½ in).Foldone-thirdof therectangleover themiddleof theblock(9), then fold theotherendover the top (10).Thiswill giveyoua single turn.During theprocessof‘turning’,makesurethatyoumaintainyouroriginalrectangularshapeeitherbygentlyrolling or stretching the dough into shape, as this will ensure an even distribution of butterthroughoutthecroissant.
Use your finger to mark one dot in the dough (11), as a reminder that this is the first turn.(Increase the number of dots for subsequent turns.) Cover the dough in plastic wrap andrefrigeratefor1hour,oruntilthebutterisfirm.
Thenextandfinalturnisadoubleturn,orbookturn,andforthisthedoughwillneedtoberolledoutthinnertoaccommodatetheadditionalfold(12).Repeattheprocessasforthefirstturnbutcontinuerollinguntilyougetalargerrectanglemeasuring20x90cm(8x35½in).Onceyouhaverolledandstretchedthedoughintothecorrectdimension(13),foldbothendsuptomeetinthemiddle of the rectangle (14, 15), then fold it in half again to end up with a block roughly theoriginalsizeofthebutter(16).
Wrapthecroissantdough(pâton)inplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor2hours.Restingthedoughinthefridgeenablesthegluten(proteinintheflour)torelaxandalsohelpsthebutterharden.Thisnotonlymakesitaloteasiertoworkwiththedoughbutalsoensuresthatthebutterisn’tabsorbedintothethinlayersofdough,whichwouldeffectivelynegatemostoftheworkyouhavejustdone.
5 6
7 8
9 10
11 12
13 14
15 16
cookingtip:
LCroissantdoughdoesnotfreezeverywellduetoitsliveculturecontent(yeast),anddomesticfreezersarenotdesignedtomaintainthecoldtemperaturesrequiredtostabilisetheyeastproperly.MyadviceistobakeallthecroissantsonthedayandkeepanyleftovertomakeAlmondCroissantsorBreadandButterPudding.
Everwonderedhowmanylayersofbutterthereareinacroissant ?
LCroissantsaremadeusingtwodifferenttypesofturns,orfolds:asingleturnandadoubleturn,orbookturn.Eventhoughabookturnisgenerallyreferredtoasadoubleturn,itisnotentirelymathematicallycorrect.Tosaveyouthetroubleofhavingtocounteachandeverylayerofyourcroissantorpuffpastryatbreakfast,hereisasimpleequationthatillustratesthemechanicsoflaminating:
Singleturns: Double(book)turns:Firstturn:3layersofbutter Firstturn:4layersofbutterSecondturn:3x3=9layers Secondturn:4x4=16layersThirdturn:9x3=27layers Thirdturn:16x4=64layersFourthturn:27x3=81layers Fourthturn:64x4=256layersFifthturn:81x3=243layers Sixthturn:243x3=729layers
Soifyou’veeverwonderedhowmanylayersofbutterareinyourcroissant,theansweris12:threelayersforasingleturnxfourlayersforadoubleturn.
Makingthecroissants
Makingthecroissants
Croissantsareahomagetothewondermentofgeometryandhowasimpletrianglecanbeshapedintoamulti-layered,perfectlyshapedcroissantwithasinglerollofthehand.Rememberthateverybakerandpastrychefintheworldhastheirownpersonalstylewhenitcomestotheshapeoftheircroissant,astylehonedovermanyyearsofpractice,sodon’tbetoodauntedifyoursendupalittlefat,oralittleshort.Regardlessoftheirshape,theyareyoursandthat,initself,isabeautifulthing.
Makes10–12
1kg(2lb4oz)coldCroissantDough,1singleand1doubleturn
3eggs
pinchoffinesalt
Cuttingthecroissants
Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaper.Removethecroissantdoughfromthefridgeandplaceona lightly flouredworksurfacewithoneshort,openside facingyou.Dust the topwitha littleextra flour and begin rolling lengthwise, regularlymoving the dough anddustingwith flour toensureitdoesn’tsticktotheworksurface.Thisfinalprocessisthemostdemandingone.Ifyou’regettingtiredorifthedoughsoftensuptoomuch,simplysprinklethetopofthedoughwithflour,folditgentlyoveritselfandrefrigerateuntilitsetsagain.Continuetherollingprocessuntilyougeta longrectangle(photo1) thatmeasuresabout20x60cm(8x24 in)and isabout5mm(¼in)thick.
Before you begin cutting your rolled-out dough (abaisse), fluff it up by running your handunderneath it and lifting itupgentlyonall sides.Thisallows thegluten time to relaxandstopsyourcutpiecesfromshrinkingandlosingtheirshapeduringthecuttingprocess.
Usealargeknifetocutthedoughintoalternatingtriangleswitha10cm(4in)base(2).Gentlylifteach triangle and stretch itwith your hands until they are lengthened by about 10 per cent, toroughly 22 cm (8½ in) long (3).Remove any excess flour from thework surface, as the doughneeds toadhere to the surface for thecroissants tobe rolledproperly.Placeone triangleon theworksurfacewiththepointedendfacingyou.Usingbothpalms,rollthewideend(thebase)ofthecroissanttowardsyou,allthewaytothetipofthetriangle(4).Whenthecroissantisrolled,simplybend it in the shapeof a crescent andplace it on a linedbaking tray, leaving a 5 cm (2 in) gapbetweeneach.
Coverthecroissantswithadampclothandplace inawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.Tocheckifyourpastriesarereadytobake,pokethemwithyourindexfinger;they
should feel soft but still elastic. If the pastry doesn’t bounce back after being poked, they areprobably slightly overproved, so occasionally check on their progress towards the end of therecommendedprovingtime.
Bakingthecroissants
Tomakeaneggwash, lightlybeattheeggsandsalt together inasmallbowl, thensetasidefor5minutes.
Preheattheovento185°C(365°F).Whenthecroissantshaveproved,brushthemgenerouslywiththeeggwashandbakefor25minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Unlikepuffpastry,croissantdoughhas a leaveningagent (yeast), sodoesnot rely solelyon the steamcreatedbywater evaporationduringthebakingprocesstodevelop.Croissantsshouldhaveaflakyskinandasoft,fleshycentre,sotheyneedtobecookedatamuchlowertemperatureforashorterperiod—don’tbetemptedtoleavethemfortoolongintheoven.Generallyspeaking, ifyourespectthecookingtemperature,thecolourwillbeagreatindicatorofwhetherthecroissantsarereadyornot.
1 2
3 4
Painsauchocolatetauxnoisettes
(Chocolateandhazelnutcroissants)Painsauchocolat,orchocolatinesastheyarecalledinsomeareas,areoneofmanypastriesmade
withcroissantdough.TheyseemtohavemadetheirwayontotheshelvesofFrenchbakeries,probablyasanimprovementofthemuch-loved,and‘imaginatively’named,baguettebeurreetchocolat—acrunchystickof—aspertheliteraltranslation—chocolatesandwichedinabutteredbreadstick.
ForthisrecipeIrecommendyouuseagood-quality,low-sugarchocolatewitha70percentcocoacontentandsomechoppedhazelnutstoaddabitoftexture.However,asalways,feelfreetouseanytypeofchocolatetosuityourpersonaltaste,orremovethenutsaltogethertomakeatraditionalchocolatine.
Makes10–12
1kg(2lb4oz)coldCroissantDough,1singleand1doubleturn
300g(10½oz)darkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),coarselychopped
200g(7oz)hazelnuts,roastedandskinned,coarselychopped(seetip)
3eggs
pinchoffinesalt
LFollowingthemethod,rolloutthecroissantdoughonalightlyflouredworksurface,dustingwithextraflourwhenneededtoensurethedoughdoesn’tsticktothesurface.Thestickingcreatesresistance,whichmeansyouwillneedtoapplymorepressure,thusdamagingthedelicatelayersofbutter.Youneedtomaketherectangleslightlywider—about30cm(12in)wideand5mm(¼in)thick.
LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaperandsetaside.Beforeyoubegincuttingyourrolled-outdough(abaisse),fluffitupbyrunningyourhandsunderneathitandliftingitupgentlyonallsides.Thisallowstheglutentimetorelaxandstopsyourcutpiecesfromshrinkingandlosingtheirshapeduringthecuttingprocess.Cuttherectangleinhalflengthwaystoformtwolong,15cm(6in)wide,rectangles.Placeonepieceonalinedtrayandrefrigeratewhileyoucutandrolltheotherhalf.
LUsingalargeknife,cutthedoughinto10x15cm(4x6in)rectangles.Inordertopreservetheintegrityofthefinelayersofbutter,trytocutthepastryusingonesinglemotionoftheknife,andavoiddraggingtheknifethroughthedough.Place1tablespoonchoppedchocolateoneach
rectangle,alongthetopofoneshortside,thensprinklesomehazelnutsoverthewholerectangle.Feelfreetoincreaseordecreasetheamountofchocolate,nutsorwhateverelseyoudecidetouse.Startingfromtheendwiththechocolate,tightlyrollupeachrectangleofdoughtoenclosethefilling.Placeonthelinedtrays,leavinga7cm(23/4in)gapbetweeneach.Coverwithadampclothandplaceinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.
LPreheattheovento185°C(365°F).Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.
LTocheckifyourpastriesarereadytobake,pokethemwithyourindexfinger;theyshouldfeelsoftbutstillelastic.Ifthepastrydoesn’tbouncebackafterbeingpoked,theyareprobablyslightlyoverproved,soit’sagoodideatooccasionallycheckontheirprogresstowardstheendoftherecommendedprovingtime.Brushtheeggwashgenerouslyoverthetopofeachpastry,thenbakefor25minutes,oruntilgolden.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.
tip
Pastrieswill increaseinsizeaftertheyhavebeenbaked,sometimesasmuchastwicetheiroriginalsize,sobeverythoroughwhenbrushingtheeggwash over your pastries before cooking them. Start from the top and brush the eggwash all theway to the very bottom of each piece, to ensuremaximumcoverageandthebestfinishpossible.
Croissantsauxamandes
(Almondcroissants)Consideringhowmuchworkgoesintomakingasimplecroissant,andkeepinginmindthat
eachofthemillionsofcroissantsbakedeverydayacrosstheworldneedtobesoldwithinhoursofbeingbaked,itwasinevitablethatbakersweregoingtocomeupwithacleverwayofrecyclingthem.AsfarasIknow,thereisnodocumentedwayofmakinga‘typical’Frenchalmondcroissant;somearemadebyliningthecroissantdoughwithalmondcreampriortobaking,somearesoakedinsyrupandsomearen’t.Onceagain,itisamatterofpersonalpreference.
ThisrecipefollowstheexactprocessthatIhavestucktosincemyapprenticeship.AsawisemaneloquentlytoldmewhenIfirstmovedtoAustralia,‘Ifitain’tbroke,don’tfixit’.Thereciperequiresonlyafewingredients:someleft-overcroissants(orusepainauchocolatifyoulike),somealmondcreamandasyrup,andwhatyou’llendupwithisanincrediblymoistandtastypastry,withadelicatelycrunchylayerofalmonds.Thisisrecyclingatitsbest!
Makes10
200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar
50ml(13/4floz)rum(optional)
10day-oldcroissants
500g(1lb2oz)AlmondCream
200g(7oz)flakedalmonds
pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,todust
LPut1litre(35floz)water,thesugarandrum,ifusing,inasaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Removefromtheheatandsetasidetocoolforatleast15minutes,oruntilabout60°C(140°F).
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linealargebakingtraywithbakingpaper.Cutthecroissantsthree-quartersofthewaythrough,fromthebacktothefront.Notcuttingtheminhalfcompletelywillstopthetopsfromfallingoffduringsoaking.Workingwithoneatatimeandusingyourhands(seetip),submergethecroissantsintothewarmsyrup,openingthemupslightlytoallowtheliquidtosoakallthewaytothemiddleofthepastry.Gentlysqueezetoremovetheexcesssyrupandplaceonthelinedtray.
LSpoonthealmondcreamintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Liftupthetopofeachcroissantandpipeathicklineofalmondcreaminsidethecroissant,fromoneendto
theother.Whenallthecroissantsarefilled,pipeanotherlayerofalmondcreamalongthetopofeachone.Sprinklewithagenerousamountofalmonds,thenuseyourpalmtopressthealmondsontothecreamandflattenthecreamonthetopofthecroissants.
LBakefor25minutes,oruntilthealmondcreamfillingbeginstoset.Tocheck,useapairofkitchentongstocarefullyliftopenacroissant;ifthecreamisstillrunny,cookforanother5minutes.Removefromtheoven,allowtocoolalittle,thendustgenerouslywithicingsugar.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.
LLikemostpastries,almondcroissantsarebestwhentheyarefreshlycooked,however,intheunlikelyeventthattheywon’tallbeeatenontheday,theycanbekeptforupto1weekiftheyarewrappedindividuallyandstoredonthebottomshelfofthefridge.Simplyreheatthemina180°C(350°F)ovenfor10minutes.
tip
Alwayscheckthetemperatureofyoursyrupbeforeputtingyourhandsintothepan!Ifyoudon’thaveathermometer,allowthesyruptocoolfor15minutes,thendiponefingerinthesyruptoassessthetemperature.Youwillgetthebestresultifyoursyrupishot,becauseacoldsyrupwon’tsoakintothepastryaswellasitshould.Ifthesyrupisgettingtoocold,reheatitfor1–2minutesonhighheat.
Fourrésauxpêchesetaucitron
(Peachandlemonpastries)Nothingsayssummermorethanthearrivalofthefirststonefruitsinthebasketsofyourlocal
fruitandvegetableshop.Let’sbehonest,ifyouaretalkingabouttemptation,thehumbleapplepalesincomparisontoabeautifulvelvetypeachwithitssweetandmoistpulpandtangyskin,oraperfectlyripeplumwithitsshiny,translucent-burgundycolourandjuicyflesh.InthisrecipeIhaveusedwell-ripenedpeaches(oryoucouldtryapricotsorplums)andhaveaddedasmallamountoflemonzesttobalanceoutthesweetnessofthefruit.
Makes18
350g(12oz)coldCustard
finelygratedzestof2lemons
2tablespoonswhippingcream(35%fat)
1kg(2lb4oz)coldCroissantDough,1singleand1doubleturn
2eggs
pinchoffinesalt
9ripepeaches,halved,stonesremovedandcutinto4mm(1/8in)thickslices
LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,whiskthecustardonlowspeeduntilsmooth.Addthelemonzestandcreamandwhiskforanother3–5minutes,oruntilsmoothandshiny.Transfertoasmallbowl,coverandrefrigerateuntilneeded.
LFollowingthemethod,rolloutthecroissantdoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa30x60cm(12x24in)rectangle,dustingwithextraflourwhenneededtoensurethedoughdoesn’tsticktothesurface.Ifyouhaven’tachievedaperfectlyshapedrectanglewithyourrollingpintowardstheendoftherollingprocess,simplystretchandpullthedoughintoshapeusingyourhands.
LBeforeyoubegincuttingyourrolled-outdough(abaisse),fluffitupbyrunningyourhandunderneathitandliftingitupgentlyonallsides.Usingalargeknife,cutthedoughintoeighteen10cm(4in)squares.Trytocutthepastryusingonesinglemotionoftheknife,andavoiddraggingtheknifethroughthedough.Placethesquaresonabakingtraylinedwithbakingpaperandrefrigeratefor20minutes,oruntilcoldandfirm.
LWorkingwithonepastrysquareatatime,andkeepingtheothersrefrigerated,placeitonthe
worksurface.Foldineachcornersotheymeetinthecentre,thenuseyourthumbtopresstheendstogethertoseal.Placeonalinedbakingtrayandrepeatwiththeremainingsquares,leavinga10cm(4in)gapbetweeneach.Coverwithadampclothandplaceinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowlandsetaside.
LTocheckifyourpastriesarereadytobake,pokethemwithyourindexfinger;theyshouldfeelsoftbutstillelastic.Ifthepastrydoesn’tbouncebackafterbeingpoked,theyareprobablyslightlyoverproved,soit’sagoodideatooccasionallycheckontheirprogresstowardstheendoftherecommendedprovingtime.Usingyourfingertip,makeasmallindentinthecentreofeachpastrysquare.Thiswillstopthefoldedpastrycornersfromopeningupduringthebakingprocessandwillforcethedoughtorisearoundthepeachesratherthanpushingthefillingoutfromunderneath.Spoon1tablespooncustardintoeachindent,thenarrangethepeachslicesinacircularpatternonthecustard.Brushtheeggwashovertheexposedpastry(seetips).Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor20–25minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Transfertoawireracktocoolslightly.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.
tips
Whileitmightbealittlefiddly,alwaysfillyourpastriesbeforeyouapplytheeggwashsothatthecustardstickstothedough;otherwise,thecustard(andthepeaches)mightslideoffduringthebakingprocess.
Citrusrindsalwaysneedtobecookedtomakethemmorepalatableand,moreimportantly,sothattheyreleasetheiroils;however,theywillburnveryquicklywhenexposedtodirectheat,soalwaysmixtheminacream,orplacethemunderanyfruit,priortobaking.
Rouladespistache-framboise
(Pistachioandraspberryswirls)Thewordrouladeliterallymeans‘rolledup’and,assuch,referstoamethodratherthana
specificdoughorflavourcombination.Thisviennoiseriecanbetweakedtosuittheseason,aspecificcelebrationorjustpersonalpreference—ifevertherewasablankcanvasforyoutoexperimentwithyourflavourcombinations,thisisit.
Thisrouladewithpistachioandraspberryisoneofmyfavourites,withitsbeautifullyflakypastry,sweetpistachiocreamandtartberryinfusion,itisperfectfordunkinginyourcupofcoffeeinthemorning,anditisalsothesimplestwaytousecroissantdough.
Makesabout15
1kg(2lb4oz)coldCroissantDough,1singleand1doubleturn
300g(10½oz)PistachioCream
300g(10½oz)frozenraspberries
2eggs
pinchoffinesalt
finelychoppedpistachios,todecorate(optional)
finelychoppedfreeze-driedorfreshraspberries,todecorate(optional)
LFollowingthemethod,rolloutthecroissantdoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa25x50cm(10x20in)rectangle,dustingwithextraflourwhenneededtoensurethedoughdoesn’tsticktothesurface.Thestickingcreatesresistance,whichmeansyouwillneedtoapplymorepressure,thusdamagingthedelicatelayersofbutterinthedough.Ifyouhaven’tachievedaperfectlyshapedrectanglewithyourrollingpintowardstheendoftherollingprocess,simplystretchandpullthedoughintoshapeusingyourhands.
LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaperandsetaside.Beforeyoubegincuttingyourrolled-outdough(abaisse),fluffitupbyrunningyourhandsunderneathitandliftingitupgentlyonallsides.Thisallowstheglutentimetorelaxandstopsyourcutpiecesfromshrinkingandlosingtheirshapeduringthecuttingprocess.
LWithonelongsidenearesttoyou,spreadthepistachiocreamalloverthedough,rightuptotheedges,thensprinklethefrozenraspberriesevenlyoverthecream.Startingfromthetopleft-handcornerofthedoughandworkingyourwayacrosstothetopright-handcorner,rollthedoughintoatightlog.Usingalargeknife,cuttheloginto3–4cm(1¼–1½in)thickrollsand
placeonthelinedtrays,leavinga10cm(4in)gapbetweeneach.Coverwithadampclothandplaceinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.
LPreheattheovento175°C(345°F).Lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowlandsetasidefor5minutes.
LTocheckifyourpastriesarereadytobake,pokethemwithyourindexfinger;theyshouldfeelsoftbutstillelastic.Ifthepastrydoesn’tbouncebackafterbeingpoked,theyareprobablyslightlyoverproved,soit’sagoodideatooccasionallycheckontheirprogresstowardstheendoftherecommendedprovingtime.Brushtheeggwashgenerouslyoverthetopofeachrouladeandbakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor25minutes,oruntilthebasesaregolden.Ifthetopsarebrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoilandcontinuebakinguntilready.Removefromtheovenandtransfertoawireracktocoolfor20minutes.Ifyoulike,sprinklewithfinelychoppedpistachiosandraspberriesbeforeserving.
tip
Anydoughthatislayeredwithbutter,suchasdoughsusedforcroissantsorDanishpastries,tendstotastealotricherandmorebutterythanabriochedough(eventhoughtheyusuallycontainalotlessfat),becausethebutterisusedraw,sandwichedinsidethedough.Thisrich,fattytasteisexacerbatedwhenthebutterishotandmelted.Ithereforealwaysrecommendeatinganylayeredpastryatroomtemperature,neverwarmedup.
Brioches
‘I ftheydon’thavebread,letthemeatbrioche!’
Briocheausucreetauxécorcesd’oranges(Candiedorangepeelandpearlsugarbrioche)
Brioches
SinceitsfirstwrittenreferenceintheMiddleAges,thisviennoiseriewasalwaysgoingtobespecial,withitssoftandfluffytexture,itsbutteryundertonesandbeautifullycolouredcrust.Itwas,andstillis,consideredthemostdecadentofallviennoiseries.
Inorderforthisdoughtobecalledabrioche,ithastobemadeofthewhitestflour,preferablywithahigh-proteinwheat,butter,eggsandsugar.Whiletheseingredientsarenowreadilyavailablefromanysupermarket,itisnotuntilwethinkofthemintheirhistoricalcontext—whenthecostofakilogramofflourwasaround40percentofapeasant’sdailysalary,sugarhadtobeimportedfromvariousexoticplacesfromaroundtheworld,andbutterwasthepreserveoftherichupperclass—thatwecanbegintounderstandhowbriocherapidlycementeditselfasanepicureanproduct.
Thefactthattheinfamousquote(topleft),oftenerroneouslytranslatedas‘letthemeatcake’,waswronglyattributedtoMarieAntoinette,thelastqueenofFranceatthetimeoftheFrenchRevolution,actuallyhadmoretodowithpropaganda,toreinforcetheglaringdisparitiesbetweentherulingeliteanditssubjectsthanregardsforhistoricalaccuracy.Itnonethelesshelpedpropagateandcementtheimageofthehumblebriocheasaluxuriousanddecadentproduct.
Pâteàbrioche
Pâteàbrioche
(Briochedough)Generallyspeaking,inatraditionalbakeryyouwillfindtwobriocherecipes:butterbrioche,
whichcontainsaveryhighpercentageofbutterandarelativelysmallamountofsugar,andsugarbrioche,whichcontainslessfatbutisslightlysweeter.TherecipeIhavechosentoincludehereisthebutterbrioche.Theadvantageofthisrecipeoverthesugarversionliesnotsomuchinthefactthatitcontainsmorebutter(althoughthataloneshouldbeenough!)butratherthatitcontainsverylittlesugar,makingitaversatilebriochethatcanbeusedforbothsavouryorsweetviennoiserie.
Makes1kg(2lb4oz)
note:Thedoughforthisbriochehastobepreparedadayaheadandcanonlybeusedwhencold.
500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘00’/T45)
150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
3teaspoonsfinetablesalt
15g(½oz)driedyeast
5coldeggs
150ml(5floz)waterchilledwith5icecubes,refrigerated
230g(8oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cubed
Makingthedough
Usinganelectricmixer fittedwithadoughhookattachment,combine the flour, sugar, saltandyeastonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.
Breaktheeggsintoabowlandaddthemtotheflourmixture(photo1),alongwith100ml(3½floz)ofcoldwaterstrainedfromtheicecubebath.Mixonlowspeedfor5minutes,oruntilasoft,stickydoughforms.
Increase the speed tomedium andmix for 15minutes, scraping the doughhook from time totime,untilthemixturecomesawayfromthesideofthebowlandbeginsto‘slap’aroundthebowl(2).Alwayscheckthetemperatureof thebriochedoughduringthemixingprocess.Thefrictioncreatedduringkneadingwillgenerateheat,whichcandamagetheyeastandpotentiallybreakthestrandsofgluten(whichgivethedoughitselasticity),leavingyouwithasoft,unworkablepaste.Ifthedoughstartstofeelwarm,reducethespeedofthemixertolow.
If youare stillonmediumspeed, reduce the speed to low, thenadd thebuttera little at a time,allowingeachadditiontobeincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext(3).Whenallthebutterhasbeenadded, increase the speed tomediumandmix for 10minutes, oruntil thedough is glossy andsmooth.
Windowpanetest
Tocheckwhetherthedoughiskneadedproperly,usethe‘windowpane’test.Holdasmallpieceofdoughinyourhandsandstretchthedoughuntilitisalmostthinenoughtoseethrough(4).Ifyoucan’tseethroughit,continuekneadingforanother2minutes.
1 2
3 4
cookingtip:
LAnydoughenrichedwithbutterwillrequirethefattobeaddedlast.Gluten(theproteinintheflour)needswatertodevelopitselasticity,acrucialrequirementinyeasteddough,andthefatreducestheabilityfortheglutentoabsorbwater(whichiswhyweputthebutterinfirstfordoughssuchasshortbreadwhereelasticityisundesirable).So,forbriochedough,itisessentialtofirstaddthewater,whichallowstheglutenstrandstodevelopbeforeintroducingthebutter.
Firstprove
Removethedoughhookfromthemixer, thensprinklea little flouroverthedoughinthebowl.Coverwithplasticwrapandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntilthedoughhasdoubledinsize(1).
Whenthedoughhasrisen,knockitdownwithyourfist,thenremoveasmuchgasasyoucanbyfoldingthedoughoverafewtimes.Placethedoughinanotherbowl,sprinklewitha little flour,thencoverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.
Dividingandballingthedough
Allbreads(amelioratedornot)needtobedividedintotheappropriatesizeand‘balled’,aprocessaimed at tightening the dough prior to the final shaping of each individual product. This isespeciallyimportantwhenworkingwithsoft,butterydoughs,asithelpstolengthenthestrandsof
gluten(theproteininflour)weakenedbytheinherentfatcontentinthebriocheandincreasesthedough’selasticity,helpingittoretainitsshapeduringtheprovingprocess.
Removetheproveddoughfromthefridge.Placethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurface,thenshapeitintoanevenlog—itdoesn’tmatterwhatsize,thisisjusttohelpyoucutevenportionsofdough.Use aplastic scraperor small knife to cut thedough into the sizeneeded (2). If youaremakingonesingleloaf,skipthiscuttingstep.
Removeanyexcessflourfromtheworksurface.Takeaportionofdoughinthecuppedpalmofyourhandandflattenslightly,thenbringtheoutsideedgesintothemiddleandpinchthecentretoseal (3).Turn theballoveranddrag thebaseover theworksurfaceseveral times (4)—thiswillensureanyairbubblestrappedinthemiddlearereleasedandyoudon’tendupwithabigholeinthemiddleofthebread.
Ifyouaremakingafullloaf,applythesameballingtechniqueasabove,butusethewholeamountofdough.Usebothyourhandstorunthedoughballovertheworksurface,tostretchthedoughandtightenupyourloaf.
Placetheballs,seam-sidedown,onalightlyflouredtray,coverwithaclothandsetasidetorestfor15minutes.
1 2
3 4
moreonproving:
LMostyeasteddoughsrequirestwoprovingstages.Thefirstproveisdesignedtokickstarttheeffectoftheyeast.Itshouldonlybeaverymoderateprove,becauseoverdoingyourpointage,orfirstprove,weakenstheproteinintheflourandaddsanundesirabletaste(ethanol).Afterknockingthedoughdownfollowingthefirstproveandrefrigeratingitovernight,thedoughisthenprovedagain,togiveittimetodevelopamorerefinedtextureandsmall,evenairpockets.Ifyouskipthesecondprovingstage,you’llendupwithasubstandardproduct,filledwithlargeairbubbles.
Briocheausucreetauxécorcesd ’oranges
Briocheausucreetauxécorcesd ’oranges
(Candiedorangepeelandpearlsugarbrioche)Whenitcomestoanyfoodpreparedwithonlyafewingredients,theruleisthis:usegood-
qualityingredientsandletthemshine.Ifevertherewasaproductthatillustratesthisconcept,thenitisthebrioche.Floralaromassuchasorangeblossom,rosewaterorlavenderaddasubtlebutveryeffectivelayerofdimensiontoyourdough,andIthinktheseareperfectforaccentuatingtheunderlyingflavoursofthebriochewithoutoverdoingit.OrangeblossomwateriswidelyusedinsouthernFranceandthisbriocheinvariablyremindsmeofChristmas,whenIwasafifteen-year-oldapprenticegoingtoworkinthemiddleofthosebitterlycoldwinter’snights,thenwalkingintothekitchenandbeingenvelopedinawaveofhotorange-blossomsteamemanatingfromthehundredsoffreshlybaked,goldenbriochesdesrois.Allthechefswerethere,sittingsilentlyandblank-facedinfrontoftheovenstowarmup,sippingoncupsofstrongcoffeeastheycontemplatedyetanotherlong,harddayahead.
Makes12–13
note:Themethodformakingthedoughforthisbriocheisthesameasthebasicrecipe,butyouneedto
reducetheamountofwaterby20ml(½floz)andsubstituteitwiththeorangeblossomwater.Addthecandiedorangepeelattheendofthemixingprocess.
1kg(2lb4oz)BriocheDough
1tablespoonorangeblossomwater
200g(7oz)good-qualitycandiedorangepeel,veryfinelychopped
2eggs
pinchoffinesalt
200g(7oz)pearlsugar(seetip)
LPreparethebriochedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.
LFollowingthedividingandballingsteps,dividethedoughintosmall80g(23/4oz)pieces,thenrollthepiecesintotightballs.Placethebriocheballsontwobakingtrayslinedwithbakingpaper,spacingthemabout10cm(4in)apart.Coverwithadryclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.
LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F).Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalt
togetherinasmallbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.Brushtheeggwashliberallyoverthetopofthebriocheballsthen,usingapairofscissorsdippedintheeggwash,makeasmallcrossinthetopofeachbrioche.Sprinkleliberallywithpearlsugar.Bakefor15–20minutes,oruntilgolden.Transfertoawireracktocoolalittle,thenservewarmoratroomtemperature.Briochearebesteatenwithin1–2days.
Painperdu
(Frenchtoast)Theliteraltranslationofpainperduis‘lostbread’,anddescribesamethodofrecyclingday-old
breadintoapalatable,sweetdish.Todaywetendtotakeourdailyloafofbreadforgranted,butmanyyearsagowhenwheatwasscarceandbreadproductionrequiredanincredibleamountofwork,itwasunthinkablethataloafofbreadcouldeverbewasted,soitwasputtogooduseindishessuchasthis.Nowadays,Frenchtoastismadeoutofalmostanydough,frombreadtocroissants,anditisstillthebestwaytouseupyouroldpastries.Ihavedecidedtousebriocheherebecause,unlikebread,briochehasahighfatandeggcontent,soitislesslikelytobreakapartandremainssoftandsilkywhensoakedinmilk.
Serves6
500g(1lb2oz)BriocheDough
1litre(35floz)full-creammilk
150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped
5eggs
pinchoffinesalt
unsaltedbutter,forpan-frying
pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,fordusting
LPreparethebriochedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.
LLightlygreaseandfloura15x25cm(6x10in)loaf(bar)tin.Placethecolddoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceanduseyourhandstoshapeitintoa25cm(10in)longroll.Don’tspendtoomuchtimetryingtomaketherollsmoothandregular—overworkingyourdoughwillmakeitverysoftandstickyand,moreimportantly,weareonlyusingthisbriocheasslices,soitsinitialshapeisnotagreatconcern.Placetherollinthepreparedtin,coverwithadampclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Whenthebriochehasproved,removetheclothandcoverwithaheavybakingtray.Thisforcesthebriochetoriseevenlyintoaneatrectangle.Bakefor40minutes,thenremovethebriochefromtheoven,removethetrayfromthetop,thenturn
thetinupsidedownandremoveit.Returnthebriocheloaftotheoven(directlyontheovenrack)andbakeforanother15minutes,oruntilthebriocheisgoldenandspringsbacktothetouch.Removefromtheovenandcooltoroomtemperature,thenrefrigerateforatleast2hours.Coolingitinthefridgewillhardenthefatinthebrioche,whichmakesiteasiertocutintoneatandregularslices.
LPutthemilk,sugarandvanillabeansandseedsinasaucepanandstircontinuouslyovermediumheatuntilthemilkbeginstosimmer.Removeanddiscardthevanillabeans,thenpourthemilkintoaflat-bottomedbowl.Coolslightly,thenrefrigerateuntilcold.IliketousecoldmilkwhenmakingFrenchtoastwithfreshbrioche;however,ifyouareusingday-oldbriocheorotherbread,there’snoneedtorefrigeratethemilk,justleaveittocoolalittleinthebowlandusewarm.
LLightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinaseparateflat-bottomedbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.Usingaserratedknife,cutthechilledbriocheinto4cm(1½in)thickslices.Soaktwoslicesofbreadinthesweetenedmilkforafewseconds,turningthebreadovertosoakontheothersideaswell(don’tsoaktheslicesfortoolongortheywillfallapartduringcooking).Transferthesoakedbreadtotheeggmixtureandsoakforafewsecondsonbothsides.
LHeatalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverhighheat.Addasmallknobofbutterand,whenthebutterstartstofoam,addthesoakedbriocheandcookfor4minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrownandcaramelised.Transfertoawirerack.Repeatwiththeremainingbrioche,milkandegg.Justbeforeserving,dusttheFrenchtoastwithicingsugar.Servewithfresh,tangyfruitssuchasberriesoradollopofGreek-styleyoghurt,tobalancethesweetnessofthetoast.
tip
Youwillneedtovarytheamountofsugarintherecipeaccordingtothetypeofbreadyouareusing.Ifusingready-madebrioche,whichisalreadyquitesweet,followtherecommendedamountgivenintherecipe;however,ifusingcroissantsoranunsweetenedbread,increasethesugarcontentofyourmilkrecipebyabout50g(13/4oz)to150g(5½oz).
Beignetsàlacannelle
(Cinnamondoughnuts)Thewordbeignetcanberoughlytranslatedas‘fritter’,agenerictermreferringtoadeep-fried
dough,andwhileitistraditionallymadefromfriedchouxpastry,theycanbemadefromalmostanydough,fromsweetbreadmadewitholiveoil(chichiaupommes)tobriochemadewithbutter(beignetitalien),orevenfromcroissantdough.
AlthoughIhaveincludedafewdifferentvariationsoffrittersinthisbook,briochedoughnutsarebyfarthebest,especiallywhenitcomestoplainsugardoughnuts.IfyouhaveeverbeentothebeachesinthesouthofFranceduringsummer,youwouldhaveinvariablybeenapproachedbyovertannedvendorscarryinglargecanebaskets,spruikingtheirappledoughnutsandcaramelisedpeanuts.Therereallyisnothingquitelikesittinginthesandinapairofglorifiedunderpants,munchingintoasoft,butterydoughnut,withthesmellofiodineandcoconutoilintheair!
Makes10–12
300g(10½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon
1vanillabean,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped
1litre(35floz)canolaoil,fordeep-frying
Briochedough
500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)
100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
2teaspoonsfinesalt
2eggs
15g(½oz)driedyeast
175ml(5½floz)coldfull-creammilk
2teaspoonsnaturalvanillaextract
finelygratedzestof2lemons
75g(23/4oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature
LTomakethebriochedough,puttheflour,sugar,salt,eggsandyeastintothebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachmentandmixonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.
Addthemilk,vanillaandlemonzestandcombine,thenaddthebutter,followingthemethodtomakethedough(totheendofthefirstprove).Theamountofbutterusedforthisrecipehasbeendrasticallyreducedfromthebasicrecipe,soitwillcookthroughmorequickly,andtooffsetsomeoftheadditionalfatthatisabsorbedduringthefryingprocess.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.
LFollowingthedividingandballingsteps,dividethecolddoughintosmall70g(2½oz)pieces,thenrollthemintotightballs.Placethebriocheballsontwobakingtrayslinedwithbakingpaper,spacingthemabout10cm(4in)apart.Coverwithadryclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.
LPutthesugar,cinnamonandvanillabeanseedsinabowlandmixthoroughlybyrubbingthemixturebetweenthepalmsofyourhands.Thisensuresthevanillaseedsinfuseproperlyintothesugarandcinnamon.Setaside.
LHeattheoilinadeep-fryerorheavy-basedsaucepanto170°C(340°F).Workinginbatches,usethepalmofyourhandtogentlyflatteneachdoughballbeforegentlyslidingitintothehotoil.Beextremelycarefulnottodropthedoughballsfromaheightoryouwillsplashyourselfwithhotoil.Don’tfrytoomanyballsatonceortheoiltemperaturewilldropandthedoughnutswillabsorbtoomuchoil.Fryonesideforabout30seconds,thenflipthemoverandcookforanother1minute,oruntilgolden.Flipthembackagaintofinishcookingthefirstside.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowel.Tossthehotdoughnutsinthecinnamonsugarandserve.
servingtip
These cinnamondoughnuts can be served as they are, or filledwith a custard such as crèmepâtissière, strawberry jamor hazelnut and chocolatespread,aspicturedhere.Spoonthefillingintoapipingbagfittedwitha4mm(1/8in)plainnozzle.Usethetipofthenozzletopokeasmallholeinthesideofthedoughnut,thenpipethefillingintothecentre.
Painsauxraisins
(Snails)Nottobeconfusedwiththemuchmaligned,butnonethelessdelicious,garlicsnail,thesesnails
(theliteraltranslationisraisinbread)areadeliciousviennoiseriemadefromabutteredpastrydough,custardandsultanas,rolledtogetherintoatightlyspiralledbun.EveryregionofFrancehasitspreferenceastowhattypeofdoughtheyuse,fromtherichandflakycroissantdoughusedinthesouth,tothefluffybriocheinthenorth.Althoughapainauxraisinsalwaysrelatestoacustardandraisinfilling,youwillfindasimilar-lookingproductcalledaroulade,whichcomeswithanalmostinfinitecombinationoffillings,frompistachioandchocolatetopralineandchocolate.
Inkeepingwiththeunderlyingphilosophyofthisbook,thisclassicsnailrecipeissimplyablueprintforyoutoexperimentwithdifferenttypesoffillingsandtexturalcombinations,fromalmondcreamsorcrushednuts,tofreshfruitsandexoticspices.Whateverfillingyouchoose,youwill(hopefully)alwaysendupwithafantasticallymoistanddeliciouspastry.
Makes10
500g(1lb2oz)BriocheDough
250g(9oz)sultanas(goldenraisins)orraisins
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways
50ml(13/4floz)rum
350g(12oz)coldCustard
80ml(23/4floz)coldwhippingcream(35%fat)
2eggs
pinchoffinesalt
LPreparethebriochedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.
LYouwillalsoneedtorehydrateyoursultanasorraisinsthedaybefore.Putthesultanasinaheatproofbowl.Putthevanillabeans,rumand500ml(17floz)waterinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Pouroverthesultanas,thenimmediatelycoverwithplasticwrap.Setasideuntilcool,thenrefrigerateovernight.
LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthecustardonmediumspeedfor1minute,thenaddthecreamandbeatuntilsmoothandshiny.Mixinginthecoldcream
helpspreventthemixturefromsettingagain.
LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaperandsetaside.Ifyouarenotveryexperiencedwithrollingdough,youcandividethebriochedoughinhalftomakelifealittleeasier.Briocheissofterandstickierthanmostotherbreaddoughs,includingcroissantdough,soyouwillneedtouseabitmoreflourandtrytobequick!Rolloutthecoldbriochedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoarectangleabout3mm(1/8in)thick.Ifnecessary,stretchthedoughusingyourhandstoachievearectangularshape.Asaguide,theshapeshouldbetwiceaslongasitiswide—about15x30cm(6x12in).
LUsingaspatula,spreadthecustardoverthedough,righttotheedges.Don’tspendtoomuchtimetryingtoachieveaperfectlysmooth,evenlayerofcustard,asyourpriorityistoworkfastwhilethebriocheisstillcoldandfirm.Drainthesultanaswell,thensprinklethemevenlyoverthecustard.Startingfromonelongside,rollthedoughintoatight,longroll.Therollshouldbe6–7cm(2½–23/4in)indiameter;ifitisanybigger,useyourhandstogentlystretchitoutuntilyoureachtherightthickness.Usingalargeknife,cuttherollinto3cm(1¼in)thickslicesandplaceonthelinedtrays,spacingtheslicesabout10cm(4in)apart.Coverwithadryclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilrisenbyhalf.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsaltinasmallbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.Whentherollshaveproved,brushthemliberallywiththeeggwash.Bakefor15–20minutes,oruntilgolden.Removefromtheovenandtransfertowirerackstocool.Dependingonthesizeofyourovenandhowmanytraysyoucanbakeatonetime,keepyourunbakedsnailsinthefridge,tostopthemoverprovingwhiletheyarewaitingtogointotheoven.
Bakersandpastrychefsroutinelyaddasmallamountofalcoholtotheircreamsandpastries,tohelpreducetheperceivedsweetness(suchasthesultanasusedhere)orfattinessofaningredientorcream.Don’tbeconcernedaboutthealcoholcontent,becausemostofthealcoholwillevaporateduringthebakingprocessoncethetemperaturereaches78°C(172°F).Whenmakingganachesandcreams,alwaysmakesureyouaddanyliquorstoboilingliquids.
P izzasbanane-chocolat
(Chocolateandbananapizzas)Iknowwhatyou’rethinking…thissoundsmorelikethelatestgimmickfromalargefast-food
pizzaconglomeratethanatypicalprovincialFrenchrecipe.Itmaysoundunusual,butIhaveactuallyseenachocolatepizzalistedonthemenuofalargepizzachainrestaurant,aswellasmacarons,crèmebrûlée,flansandmanyotherFrenchspecialtiesthatyouwouldn’texpecttofind.Infact,makingapizzaoutofbriochedoughleftovershasbeenacommonpracticeforcenturies.Today,thesesweetpizzasaretypicallysoldfromsmallvendorstallsatlocalmarketsorfairs,adornedwithfreshseasonalfruitsorchocolate-hazelnutpaste.
Makes2
250g(9oz)BriocheDough
2largeripebananas
50g(13/4oz)caster(superfine)sugar
100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter
100g(3½oz)darkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),finelychopped
80ml(23/4oz)whippingcream(35%fat)
LPreparethebriochedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.
LDividethebriochedoughinhalf,thenrolleachportionoutonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa15cm(6in)round.Placeonalargebakingtraylinedwithbakingpaper,thencoverwithadryclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilthedoughhasdoubledinsize.
LMeanwhile,cutthebananasinto1cm(½in)thickslices.Putthesugarandhalfofthebutterinalargefryingpanandcookovermediumheatuntilthebutterhasmelted.Addtheslicedbananasinasinglelayerandcookfor3–5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Turnthebananasoverandcookuntilgoldenontheotherside,thenremovefromthepanandplaceinasinglelayeronaplatetocool.
LPutthechocolateandtheremainingbutterinasmallsaucepanandstiroververylowheatuntilmeltedandsmooth.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Whenthedoughhasproved,useyourfingertipstomakesmallcratersalloverthepizzabases;thispreventsthecreamfromrunningoffthepizzaduringbaking.Arrangethecaramelisedbananasevenlyoverthetopofthepizzas.
LBakefor10minutes,thenopentheoven,slideoutthepizzasonthetrayanddrizzlethecreamoverthetop.Bakeforanother10minutes,oruntilgoldenandbubbling.Ifthepizzatopscaramelisebeforethebasesarecooked,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil;thiswilldeflecttheheatfromthetopandstopthecaramelisation.Removefromtheoven,drizzlewiththemeltedchocolatemixtureandserveimmediately.
tip
Asanalternative,youcanreplace thebananaswithpears,andthechocolatewithahazelnutspread.Other flavourcombinationsyoumight likeareapple,rhubarbandalmondcream;orhoney,ricottacheeseandorangezest.
Pastislandais
(Frenchpanettone)NottobeconfusedwiththealcoholicbeveragefromProvenceofthesamename,thepastis
referredtointhisbriochemeans‘cake,’atranslationofthelocaldialectofLandesdeGascogne,aregioninthesouth-westofFrance.Unliketheotherbriochesinthischapter,pastislandaisismadeusingapoolishstarter,amethodtraditionallyusedinthemanufactureofsemi-sourbreads,someofwhichareincludedinthebreadchapter.Whilealittlemorecomplicatedtomake,briochesurpoolisharewellworththeadditionaleffort.Withtheirdense,creamytextureandslighttouchofsourness,theyhavetheaddedadvantageofstayingsoftforfarlongerthantheirtraditionalyeast-provedcousins.ThisrecipeisactuallyalmostidenticaltothefamedItalianChristmasbrioche,panettone,butdoesn’tcontainanyofthecandiedfruitsandraisinstypicallyused—justlotsofbutterandeggs,agenerousdashoforangeblossomwater,andsomerumforgoodmeasure.
Makes1largeor18small
2eggs
pinchoffinesalt
200g(7oz)pearlsugar(seetip)
Poolish
100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)
10g(¼oz)driedyeast
100ml(3½floz)tepidwater
Brioche
125ml(4floz)full-creammilk
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways
40ml(1¼floz)rum
250g(9oz)caster(superfine)sugar
40ml(1¼floz)orangeblossomwater
5eggs
750g(1lb10oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)
3teaspoonsfinesalt
130g(4½oz)unsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled
LTomakethepoolish,puttheflour,yeastandtepidwaterinabowlandstiruntilasoft,stickypasteforms.Coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.
LTomakethebriochedough,putthemilk,vanillabeans,rumandsugarinasaucepanandstirovermediumheatfor2–3minutes,oruntilwarm,thenremovefromtheheat.Thisprocessisonlymeanttodissolvethesugarandsoftenthevanillabeans,sodon’tbetemptedtobringittotheboil.Removethevanillabeansandusethebackofasmallknifetoscrapetheseedsout.Addtheseedstothemilkanddiscardthebeans,thenstirintheorangeblossomwaterandsetaside.
LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,whisktheeggsonmediumspeedfor2minutes,oruntilthemixturebeginstofoam.Reducethespeedtolowandgraduallyaddthetepidmilk.Becareful;ifthemilkishotterthan65°C(150°F)theeggswillcook,sotoensureitisattherighttemperature,dipyourfingerintothemilkfor30seconds—ifitistoohotforyou,itistoohotfortheeggs!
LStillonlowspeed,addtheprovedpoolishandmixuntilwellcombined.Swapthewhiskforthedoughhookattachment,thenaddtheflourandsaltandmixforanother2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomestogether.Increasethespeedtomediumandknead,scrapingthesideofthebowloccasionally,for10–12minutes,oruntilsmoothandglossy.Addthemeltedbutterandcontinuemixingonlowspeed,scrapingthesideofthebowl,untilfullycombined.Coverthebowlwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2–3hours,oruntildoubledinsize.
LScrapethedoughoutofthebowlontoagenerouslyflouredworksurface.Knockoutasmuchgasasyoucanbypunchingdownthedough,thenfoldthesidesovertothemiddle,dustingwithextraflourwhennecessary.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Greaseadeep12x26cm(4½x10½in)caketinoruse18individualpanettoneormuffinpapercups(thesearesturdyanddon’tneedtositinatin).Unliketraditionalbrioche,thisdoughisalotsofterandcannotbeballedintoshape.Todivide,simplysoakyourhandsincoldwaterandshakeofftheexcesswater,thentakeasmallhandfulofdoughanddropitinthepreparedtinormuffincasesuntiltwo-thirdsfull.Youcanuseanymould,tinorpapercup,butneverfillthemhigherthantwo-thirdsorthebriochewilloverflowduringbaking.Coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2–3hours,oruntilthedoughhasreachedthetopofthetinorpapercups.
LTomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.Brushtheeggwashoverthetopofthebrioche,then,usingapairofscissorsdippedineggwash,cutacrossshapeabout2cm(3/4in)deeponthetop.Sprinklewithpearlsugarandbakefor45minutesforalargebrioche,or20–25minutesforindividualbrioches.Removefromtheovenandplaceonawireracktocool.Ifyouhavebakedthebriocheinatin,removeitfromthetinasearlyaspossible,butdon’tburnyourselfintheprocess.
Pains
‘Withbread,allsorrowsareless.’
DONQUIXOTE,MIGUELDECERVANTES
Paindecampagne(Countrybread)
Pains
(Breads)
Whilenotallofthelocalspecialtiesincludedinthisbookhaveenjoyedthesamelevelofglobalrecognitionasthecroissantorlemontart,theyarenonethelessbasedonage-oldrecipesthathave,overtheyears,cementedthemselvesdeeplyinthelocalgastronomicpsyche.Noneofthem,however,willeverachievethenotorietythatbreadhasenjoyed.BreadissomuchapartoftheFrenchgastronomicandculturallandscapethatit’seasytoforgetthat,forthousandsofyears,peoplefromeverycivilisationaroundtheworldhaveincludedbread,inoneformoranother,asanintegralpartoftheirdailydiet.Itistrulyremarkablethatsuchaseeminglysimpleconcoctionhasnotonlywithstoodthetestoftime,butalsomanagedtoplaysuchacrucialroleinthedevelopmentofsomanycivilisations.
Itiseasytooverlookthefactthatthehumbleloafofbreadwejustboughtfromanartisanbakeristheresultofyearsofpracticewithcountlesstrialsanderrors.Moreimportantly,therecipesusedtomakethesebreadshaveoftenbeenperfected,sometimesovergenerations,basedonthebakery’sownclimaticenvironment,localingredientsandequipment.Thatbeingsaid,makingbreadisanincrediblyrewardingexercisethatcanbeenjoyedbythewholefamily,andprovidingthatyoustartatthebeginningandtakethetimetofamiliariseyourselfwiththesubtletiesofyouringredientsandequipment,yourbread-makingjourneywillrewardyouwithsomeofthesamesimplepleasuresthatpeoplehaveenjoyedforsomanyyears.
Nowadays,therearecountlesstypesofbread,eachwiththeirownflavourandtextureprofiles,varyingdegreesofdifficultyandtimelineconstraints.Tosimplifythings,Ihavedividedbreadsintothreebasiccategories.
Painméthodedirecte(Bread,directmethod):
Thisisbyfarthesimplestandmostpopularmethodofmakingbread.Itreliesentirelyontheadditionofyeastforthefermentationprocess(proving).Thisisanidealmethodforamateurbakerstouse,becauseitisverypredictable,fastandalmostfailproof.Breadsmadewiththismethod,suchasthebaguette,areusuallyverylightandairy,withathin,crispycrust,buttheyhaveashortshelflifeanddon’thavethesamedepthofflavourasbreadsmadeusingtheothermethods.
Thetasteandtextureofbreadsmadeusingthedirectprovingmethodcanbefurtherimprovedbyreducingtheamountofyeast,butthisprocesswilldramaticallylengthentheprovingprocessandthebreadswillbemuchmorevulnerabletoenvironmentalfactorssuchasvariationsintemperatureorhumidity(formoreinformationonyeast).
Painsurpoolish(Semi-sourdoughbread):
Thisismyfavouritemethod.Thisbreadreliesontheadditionofapoolish,averylightlyyeastedlevain(starter)foritsfermentationprocess.Itisstillveryquicktoprove,butitproducesabreadthatismore‘creamier’andfull-bodied,withalightsourtangandcrunchycrust.Thismethodisusuallycalledàl’ancienne,probablyduetoitsmorerusticappearanceandgivesyouthebestofbothworlds—aquickandpredictablefermentingprocessandabeautifullycrispyandtastyloaf.
Thepoolishisapre-fermentmethodroutinelyusedinFranceforthemanufactureofanythingyeasted,frombriochetocroissants,breadstofougasse.Personally,Ithinktheslightlyheaviercrumbandsourtastethatyougetwhenusingthismethodisbettersuitedtorusticbreadloavesmoresothansubtleviennoiseriessuchascroissantsorbrioche,wheretheaddedsourness,howeversmall,detractsfromtheirwonderfullybutteryundertonesandfluffiness.Onceagain,it’sapersonalpreferenceandfirstandforemost,thepoolishmethodisagreatwaytogentlytransitionintothecomplexworldofbacterialfermentationanditswonderfulflavoursandtextures.
Painaulevain(Fullsourdoughbread):
Makingbreadwithafulllevain(starter)wastheonlymethodavailableuntiltheinventionofcommercialyeastearlyinthetwentiethcentury.Thefermentationprocessreliesonalevainchef,apre-fermentmadeofflourandwaterwithoutadditionofyeast,
whichhasbeenlefttoageoverfourorfivedays.Makingfullsourdoughbreadrequirestime,patience(fivedaysforthepre-fermentandupto20hoursproving),dedicationand,mostimportantofall,aheavyfirebrickoven.Breadsmadewithafullstarterwilltendtohaveadenserandmuchsourercrumbandachewiercrust.
L
Ihavebeenfortunateenoughtohaveworkedwithsomeamazingbakers,bothinFranceandAustralia,overthecourseofmycareerandIamyettotastean‘OK’loafoffullsourdoughbread.Loavesthatrelyentirelyonalevaincheffortheirfermentationsareeitheramazingorjustplainbad,andwhenconsideringthefactthatmosthomebakerswon’thaveaccesstotheequipmentrequiredtomakeasuccessfulloaf,theinevitableconclusionisthatyouwillmostlikelybedisappointedwiththeresult.Iamawarethatthisisprobablygoingtogetmeintrouble,butItrulybelievethatcookbooksshouldbemotivationaltools,aimedatgraduallybuildingtheskillsandconfidenceoftheirreadersbyprovidingachievablegoals,takingintoaccountthelevelofskillrequiredandthetypeofequipmentrequired.
Consequently,Ihavechosentoincludeonlythequickandalmostfailproofbreadrecipesthatarebasedonthedirectandsemi-sourdoughmethods.Ifeeltheserecipesareeasilyachievableforthehomecookandwillhopefullyprovideyouwiththeskillsandconfidencetoexperimentwithmoretechnicallychallengingsourdoughsinthefuture.
Allfermentsarenotcreatedequal
Nottoputtoofineapointonmyreluctancetoincludefullsourdoughsinthisbook…but,rememberthatyeastsandbacteriaareallaroundus—inthewaterandair—andinalltheingredientsusedinthemanufactureofthebread.Assuch,eachlevainwillfermentbasedonitsownindigenousyeastandbacterialcontent,sothereforearecipedesignedinFrancewillnottasteorprovewiththesamecharacteristicsasonemadeanywhereelse.
Painméthodedirecte
(Bread,directmethod)Practical,fastandalmostfailproof,thedirectmethodisthebestwaytostartyourbread-baking
journey.Thesebreads,withtheirthincrispycrust,whitecrumbandrelativelymildflavour,haveamuchbroaderappealinFrancethanthemorepungentsourbreads,whichtendtooverpowerthesubtletiesofthefoodtheyaresupposedtocomplement.Thefollowingstepswillclarifyhowtokneadyourdoughand,justasimportantly,howtoshapeit.
Makes800g(1lb12oz)
500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)
350ml(12floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)
8g(¼oz)driedyeast
10g(¼oz)finesalt
Makingthedough
BymixerUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhook,mixtheflourand300ml(10½floz)ofthecoldwateronlowspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntilaroughdoughforms.Coverthebowlwithacleandampclothandsetasidetorestfor15minutes(seetip).
Puttheyeastandtheremainingwaterinasmallbowlandwhiskuntilfullydissolved.Addtothehydrateddough,thenaddthesaltandkneadonlowspeedfor10minutes.Increasethespeedtomediumandknead for another2minutes,oruntil thedough is smoothandelastic andcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Becarefulnottooverheatthedough;regularlycheckforanysignofheatbytestingitwiththebackofyourindexfinger.Stopkneadingif thedoughfeels likeit iswarmingup.Shapethedoughintoaball.
ByhandPuttheflourontheworksurfaceandmakeawellinthemiddle.Slowlyadd300ml(10½floz)ofthewater(photo1).Usingyourfingertips,starttoincorporatetheflourintothewater(2).Atthisstage,don’tworryifsomeofthewaterescapesfromthewell;simplyscrapeitbackinsideyour flourwell and continue incorporating and binding the dough together.Using the heel ofyourhand,pressthedoughroughlytogether(3),thencoverwithadampclothandrestfor35–40minutes(seetip).
Shapethedoughintoadiscwithslightlyelevatedsides.Puttheyeastandremainingwaterintoasmallbowlandwhiskuntilfullydissolved(4).Pourthedissolvedyeastontothedough(5), thenaddthesaltandgentlypullthesidesofthedoughtowardsthemiddle(6)toincorporatetheliquid
into thedough.At this stage thedoughwillbesoftand tacky, sobegin thekneadingprocessbygentlypushingthedoughacrosstheworksurfacewiththepalmofyourhand,foldingthedoughoveritself(7)untilitbecomesmoreelastic.Then,pushthedoughawayfromyouwiththeheelofyourhandandbring theoutside edgesof thedough towards themiddle (8), until thedough issmoothandstopssticking.Thisprocessshouldtake15–20minutes.Shapethedoughintoaball(9).
Windowpanetest
Tocheckwhetherthedoughiskneadedproperly,usethe‘windowpane’test.Holdasmallpieceofdoughinyourhandsandstretchthedoughuntilitisalmostthinenoughtoseethrough(photo4).Ifnot,continuekneadingforanother2minutes.
1
2 3
4 5
6 7
8 9
cookingtip:
LAftertheflourandwaterhavebeenkneaded,thedoughmustbelefttorest.Thiscrucialstepis‘autolyse’andisdesignedtohydratetheflourandimproveglutendevelopment.Doughkneadedwithoutthisstepwillneedalongermixingtime,whichoftenleadstoaweakeningoftheyeast.
Firstprove
Placethedoughinalightlyflouredbowlandcoverwithacloth.Setasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilrisenbyhalf.Thetimethistakeswilldependonthetemperatureofthedoughandyourkitchen.
Whenthedoughhasrisen,knockitdownwithyourfist,thenremoveasmuchgasasyoucanbyfoldingthedoughoverafewtimes.Thisfirstprove(pointage)isanessentialpartoftheleaveningprocessandislargelydesignedtorefinethefinaltextureofthebread.Duringthisstage,theyeastfungi are still relatively clumped together andwill create large bubbles of gas (carbon dioxide),resultinginanirregularbreadstuddedwithlargeholes.Theprocessofknockingthedoughdownis largelyaimedatspreadingthefungiaroundthedough,resultinginabreadwithadenserandmorerefinedtexture.
Dividingandballingthedough
Allbreadsneedtobedividedintotheappropriatesizeand‘balled’,aprocessaimedattighteningthedoughprior to the final shapingofeach individualproduct. (Doughs for flatbreads suchaspizzaandfougassedonotneed‘balling’,asthiswilldevelopthegluten,makingitdifficulttorollthedoughout flat.)Although it is difficult to accurately describe the balling techniqueusedbyprofessionalbakers,aslongasyouknowthattheaimoftheprocessistostretchtheglutenratherthanmakeaniceroundball,yourtechniquewilldevelopwithexperience.
Place the dough on a lightly flouredwork surface and shape it into an even log (photo1) — itdoesn’tmatterwhatsize,thisisjusttohelpyoucutevenportionsofdough.Useaplasticscraperorsmallknifetocutthedoughintothesizeneeded(2). Ifyouaremakingonesingle loaf,skipthiscuttingstep.
Removeanyexcessflourfromtheworksurface.Takeaportionofdoughinthecuppedpalmofyourhandandflattenslightly,thenbringtheoutsideedgesintothemiddleandpinchtoseal(3).Turntheballoveranddragthebaseovertheworksurfaceseveraltimes(4)—thiswillensureanyairbubblestrappedinthemiddlearereleasedandyoudon’tendupwithabigholeinthemiddleofthebread.
Ifyouaremakingafullloaf,applythesameballingtechniqueasabove,butusethewholeamountofdough.Usebothyourhandstorunthedoughballovertheworksurface,tostretchthedoughandtightenupyourloaf.
Placetheballs,seamsidedown,onalightlyflouredtray,coverwithaclothandsetasidetorestfor15minutes.
1 2
3 4
moreonyeast:
LTounderstandthecorrelationbetweenthedosageofyeastandflavour,youneedtounderstandhowdoughferments.Yeasteddoughsrelymainlyonfungustometabolisesugarsintogases(carbondioxideandethanol),whicharethentrappedbytheglutenduringbaking.Thesegases,alongwithsteam,helpthedoughtorise.
Thesournessanddepthofflavouraretheresultofaslowbacterialprocessthatturnssugarintolactic
acidandasmallamountofcarbondioxideandethanol.Thelessyeastyouaddtoadough,thelongerthedoughwilltaketoprove,andthereforethemoretimeforlacticacidtobuildup.Thiswillresultinabreadwithamorecomplexflavourandcreamierflesh.So,ifyoupreferabreadwithslightundertonesofsourness(butarenotyetconfidentwiththeprocessofpre-fermentationneededforsemi-orsourdoughbreads)andhavealotmoretimeonyourhands,simplyreducetheinitialamountofyeast.Asanapproximateguideline,every1g(1/32oz)reductioninyeastwillincreasetheprovingtimebyanhour.
provingtimes:
flour yeast firstprove500g(1lb2oz) 8g 1hour500g(1lb2oz) 7g 2hours500g(1lb2oz) 6g 3hours500g(1lb2oz) 5g 4hours
Painsurpoolish
(Semi-sourdoughbread)AsImentionedearlier,thisismyfavouritemethodofmakingbread.Painssurpoolishare
breadsthatrelyonacombinationofyeastandpre-fermentfortheirfermentationprocess.Thedifferenceisthatunlikethepuresourferment,thepoolishitselfcontainsasmallamountofyeast,whichwillnotonlygiveyouabutteryandlightcrumb,acrispcrustandabeautifulsubtlesourness,butalsoafasterandmoreconsistentfermentationprocess.
Makes500g(1lb2oz)
note:Thismethodisdoneintwostages:firstthepoolish,whichwillneedtofermentovernight,andthenthe
finaldough.
Poolish
1g(1/32oz)driedyeast
100ml(3½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)
100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)
Dough
200g(7oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)
100ml(3½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)
6g(1/5oz)finesalt
3g(1/10oz)driedyeast
Makingthepoolishanddough
Tomakethepoolish,puttheyeastandcoldwaterinamediumbowlandstiruntilfullydissolved.Add the flourandwhiskgentlyuntil a soft, stickypaste forms.Thisprocess is extremely simpleandaslongastheflouriswetandtheyeasthasdissolved,itisalwaysgoingtowork.Coverwithaclothorplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.Alternatively,ifyouareinahurry,leavethepoolishat room temperature for 3 hours, or until it triples in volume. The following day, remove thepoolishfromthefridge.Bynowitshouldhavetripledinsize(photo1).
Tomakethedough,puttheflour,coldwater,saltandyeastinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment(2)andmixonlowspeedfor10minutes.
Addthepoolish(3), increasethespeedtomediumandkneadforanother5–6minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl(4).
Windowpanetest
Tocheckwhetherthedoughiskneadedproperly,usethe‘windowpane’test.Holdasmallpieceofdoughinyourhandsandstretchthedoughuntilitisalmostthinenoughtoseethrough(photo4).Ifnot,continuekneadingforanother2minutes.
Provingthedough
Remove thedoughhook anddust a little flourover thedough, then coverwith a cloth and setasideinawarmplacetoprovefor45minutes.Whenthedoughhasrisen,knockitdownbyusingyourhandtopushthemiddleofthedoughdown,thenfoldthesidestowardsthecentretoremoveasmuchgasaspossible.
Coverandsetasideforanother45minutes,oruntildoubledinsize,thenknockthedoughdownagain.Thedoughisnowreadytobedividedandballed.
1 2
3 4
Michetraditionnelleauxnoixetauxraisins
(Traditionalwalnutandraisinloaf)Thisisagreatrecipetostartwith.Thisbasicmethodisidealifyouhaven’tpreparedapoolish
thedaybeforeandwanttobakealoaforsmallbreadrollsfordinnerorapicnicatshortnotice.Inafewhoursyouwillhaveabeautifullycrustyloafwithasoft,airycrumbthatisjustasdelicioustoastedwithbutterandjamasitisservedwithcheesesorliverparfaits.
Makes1loaf
800g(1lb12oz)BreadDough,directmethod
100g(3½oz)walnuts,lightlyroasted
100g(3½oz)raisinsorsultanas(goldenraisins)
spraybottlefilledwithwarmwater
LPreparethedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthe‘windowpane’test.Withthedoughstillinthebowloftheelectricmixer(fittedwithadoughhookattachment),addthewalnutsandraisinsandmixonlowspeedfor2minutes,oruntilevenlydispersed.Followthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.
LTransferthedoughtoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandproceedwiththeballingprocess.Linealargebowl,about25cm(10in)indiameter,withalightlyflouredcloth.Gentlytipthedoughupsidedownintothelinedbowlsothatthebottomoftheloaffacesup.Coverwithanotherlightlyflouredclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1–1½hours,oruntildoubledinsize.Tocheckifthedoughisready,gentlypushitwiththepalmofyourhand;itshouldfeelsoftbutthedoughshouldstillspringbacktoitsoriginalshape.Ifthedoughfeelshardanddense,itisnotready.
LPreheattheovento240°C(465°F)atleast30minutesbeforebakingthebread.Holdthebowlwithonehandandresttheotherhandgentlyontopofthedoughwithyourfingersspreadapart,thencarefullytipthedoughontoalightlyflouredbakingtray.Dustalittleflouroverthetopofthedough.Usingasharpparingknife,cutacrossinthetopoftheloaf.
LPlaceonthebottomshelfoftheovenandspraywaterintotheovenfor5seconds(seetip),thenquicklyclosetheovendoor.Bakefor20–25minutes.Tocheckifthebreadisready,opentheovendoorandtapthecrustwithyourindexfinger.Thebreadisreadywhenthecrustfeelshardandtheloafsoundshollowanddry.Removefromtheovenandsetasideforatleast5
minutesbeforeslicing,orthesteamthatistrappedinsidetheloafmayburnyou.
scoringtheloaves
Traditionallybreadisbakeddirectlyonthebricksonthebaseoftheovenandtheintenseheatgeneratedfromthebottomformsathickskin,forcingthesteamupwardsthroughthethinnerskinonthetop(thereis lessheatinthetopoftheoven).Inconvection(fan-forced)andstaticovenstheheatisdispersedevenlyaroundtheoven,sotheskinthickensuniformlyaroundtheloaf,trappingthesteamandturningitintotheshapeofafootball.Scoringtheloafpriortobakingweakenstheskinandallowsthesteamtoescapesothebreadretainsitsshapeduringbaking.
Paindecampagne
(Countrybread)Thepaindecampagneistheiconofruralbaking,andwhilethisrusticbreadhasenjoyeda
trendyresurgenceinthelastfewyears,itisstillbestenjoyedwithaheartysouporstewduringthoselongwinternights,deepinthecountryside.
Makes1loaf
Poolish
1g(1/32oz)driedyeast
100ml(3½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)
50g(13/4oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)
50g(13/4oz)ryeflour
Dough
150g(5½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)
50g(13/4oz)ryeflour
100ml(3½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)
6g(1/5oz)finesalt
2g(1/16oz)driedyeast
spraybottlefilledwithwarmwater
LTomakethepoolish,followthemethod,addingintheryeflourwiththeplainflour.Coverandsetasideatroomtemperaturefor3hours,oruntilthepoolishtriplesinvolume.Tomakethedough,followthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.
LTransferthedoughtoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandproceedwiththeballingprocess.Linealargebowl,about25cm(10in)indiameter,withalightlyflouredcloth.Gentlytipthedoughupsidedownintothelinedbowlsothatthebottomoftheloaffacesup.Coverwithanotherlightlyflouredclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.Tocheckifthedoughisready,gentlypushitwiththepalmofyourhand;itshouldfeelsoftbutthedoughshouldstillspringbacktoitsoriginalshape.Ifthedoughfeelshardanddense
itisnotready.
LPreheattheovento230°C(445°F)atleast30minutesbeforebaking.Holdthebowlwithonehandandresttheotherhandgentlyontopofthedoughwithyourfingersspreadapart,thencarefullytipthedoughontoalightlyflouredbakingtray.Dustalittleflouroverthetopofthedough.Usingasharpparingknife,cutacrossinthetopoftheloaf.
LPlaceonthebottomshelfoftheovenandspraywaterintotheovenfor5seconds(seetip),thenquicklyclosetheovendoor.Bakefor20–25minutes.Tocheckifthebreadisready,opentheovendoorandtapthecrustwithyourindexfinger.Thebreadisreadywhenthecrustfeelshardandtheloafsoundshollowanddry.Removefromtheovenandsetasideforatleast5minutesbeforeslicing,orthesteamthatistrappedinsidetheloafmayburnyou.
Whyrye?Ryeflourwasusedextensivelyinthepastduetoitsrelativelylowcostofprocessingandstrongresiliencetowinterconditions.Nowadays,ryeflourisaddedtosemi-sourorsourdoughbreadsfortwomainreasons.Firstly,itcontainslessglutenthanwheatandisthereforelessproficientatretainingthegascreatedduringthefermentationprocess,whichgivesthebreadadenserfleshwithsmallerholes,thushelpingextenditsshelflife.Secondly,itcontainsmoresolublesugarsthanwheatandthereforefermentsfaster.
Fougasseauxolives
(Provençalolivebread)WhilstfougasseauxolivesiscommonlyfoundinProvencetodayinitsdistinctivewheatkernel
shape,verymuchlikethefabledpompeàl’huile,similarbreadsarefoundallaroundtheMediterraneanbasin,fromItaly(focaccia)totheBalkans(pogaca).Fougasseisaverysimplebreadmadeusingthedirectmethod,withaddedoil,sugarorbutter.Traditionallyitwastoppedwithvegetablesorfruitsandwasmadeatthestartofthenightandthrownintotheoventoassesstheaccuracyofthetemperatureoftheoven.
Makes1loaf
50ml(13/4floz)full-creammilk
2teaspoonsfleurdesel,orothersaltflakes(donotusefinesalt)
2thymesprigs,leavespicked
spraybottlefilledwithwarmwater
Dough
350g(12oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)
150ml(5floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)
70ml(2¼floz)virginoliveoil
6g(1/5oz)finesalt
3g(1/10oz)driedyeast
100g(3½oz)pittedblackorgreenolives,coarselychopped
LTomakethedough,puttheflour,water,oliveoil,saltandyeastinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachmentandmixonlowspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomestogether.Increasethespeedtomediumandkneadfor8–10minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Duringthekneadingstage,scrapethedoughfromthehookandthesideofthebowltwoorthreetimes.Removethedoughhook,coverthebowlwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilthedoughhasincreasedbytwo-thirds.Addthechoppedolivesandkneadgentlywithonehanduntiltheolivesareevenlydispersedthroughthedough.
LPlacethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurface,thensprinklealittleextraflouroverthe
top.Usingyourpalms,flattenthedoughintoa2cm(3/4in)thickrectangle.Don’tworryaboutmakingittooeven,asthisbreadissupposedtolookrustic.Transfertoalightlyflouredbakingtray,coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.
LPreheattheovento200°C(400°F)foratleast30minutesbeforebakingthebread.Usingasmall,sharpknife,cutfourdiagonalincisionsonbothsidesofthedoughtoresembleawheatkernel.Brushthetopwiththemilk,thensprinklewiththesaltandthymeleaves.
LPlaceonthebottomshelfoftheovenandspraywaterintotheovenfor5seconds(seetip),thenquicklyclosetheovendoor.Bakefor15minutes,oruntilthetopofthefougassebeginstobrown.Unlikeotherloavesorrollsthataremadeusingthesamedough,thethinshapeofthefougassemeansitcooksalotfaster,sokeepaneyeonit—oneofthemaincharacteristicsoffougasseisitslightcolour.Removefromtheovenandsetasideuntilcool.
addingsteam
Addingsteamto theoven isbeneficial for two reasons.Firstly,humiditydelays thedryingupof thedough’s skinand thishelps thebreaddevelopproperly.Secondly,thewaterintheoven(assteam)willgelatinisethestarchintheflour,whichgivesthefinishedbreadaglossycrust.
P issaladière
(Onionandanchovyfocaccia)PissaladièreisaniconicfougassefromNice,inthesouthofFrance.Oftenmistakenlycalleda
pizza,itisactuallymadeonathickbreadorafougassebase—unlikepizzaswhicharetraditionallybakedonathinandcrispydough—andthentoppedwithasmallamountofanchovypasteandathicklayerofconfitonions.Evenif,likeme,you’renotafanofanchovies,thiswilltakeyoubysurprise.It’slight,justsweetandjustsaltyenough,ittastesliketheearthandtheseaallatonce,anditwillleaveyouwithanosefullofnuttyandfruityaromas.Nothingtastesquiteasgoodaseatingapissaladièrewithaglassofredwine,lounginginalongchairunderashadytree,justbeforetakinganap.
Serves4–6
50ml(13/4floz)virginoliveoil
1kg(2lb4oz)brownonions,thinlysliced
1teaspoongroundblackpepper
salt,totaste
100g(3½oz)anchovypaste(soldinjarsortubes)
100g(3½oz)smallblackolives,pitted
6–8anchovyfillets
6thymesprigs,leavespicked
Dough
350g(12oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)
190ml(6½floz)full-creammilk
30g(1oz)caster(superfine)sugar
40g(1½oz)unsaltedbutter
3g(1/10oz)driedyeast
6g(1/5oz)finesalt
LTomakethedough,puttheflourandmilkinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment.Mixonlowspeedforabout5minutes,oruntilthedoughcomestogether.Coverthebowlwithacleandampclothandsetasidetorestfor40minutes.
LAddthesugar,butter,yeastandsalttothehydrateddoughandmixonlowspeeduntilwellcombined,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandkneadforabout10minutes,oruntilthedoughbeginstobindaroundthedoughhookandstartstocomeawayfromthesideofthebowl.Duringthekneadingstage,scrapethedoughfromthehookandthesideofthebowltwoorthreetimes.Tocheckwhetherthedoughisready,usethe‘windowpane’test.Coverthebowlwithaflouredclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilthedoughhasincreasedbytwo-thirds.Knockthedoughdown,thencoverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours,oruntilfirmtothetouch.
LRolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa5mm(¼in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout20x30cm(8x12in).Feelfreetouseyourhandstostretchthedoughintoshape.Placeonabakingtraylinedwithbakingpaperandfreezefor1hour,oruntilfirm.
LMeanwhile,heattheoliveoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoverhighheatfor1minute.Addtheonionsandpepperandcombinewell.Reducetheheattomedium,thencoverandcook,stirringoccasionally,for20–25minutes,oruntiltheonionsaregoldenandsoftenedalmosttoapurée.Removefromtheheat,seasonwithjustalittlesalt,rememberingtheanchovypasteisalreadyquitesalty,andsetasideuntilcool.
LPreheattheovento220°C(430°F)atleast30minutesbeforebakingthebread.Removethedoughfromthefreezerandspreadtheanchovypasteevenlyoverthetop.Theanchovypastebalancesoutthesweetnessoftheonions,butcanveryquicklyoverpowertherestoftheflavours,somakesureitisappliedverythinly.Scatteroverthecaramelisedonionsandtheolives,thenarrangetheanchoviesevenlyacrossthetop.
LSetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor30minutes,oruntilthedoughbeginstoriseagain.Bakefor20minutes,oruntilthebottomofthepissaladièrebeginstobrown.Removefromtheoven,scatterwiththymeandcooltoroomtemperature,thencutintosquaresandserve.
Fougasseausucre
(Sugarfougasse)Baking,atleastforme,isnotsomuchabouthowintricateacertainpastryisorhowrusticaloaf
ofbreadlooks—itgoesfarbeyondthesurfaceofwhatwecansee.Cherishedmomentsfromourchildhood,longsincefaded,canoftenbebroughtbackwithstartlingclarityjustbythesimpleactofbitingintoacertainbiscuitorthearomaofacakebakingintheoven.Eventoday,wheneverIsmellafougasse,I’mtakenbacktothetimeswhenmysisterandIstayedatmygrandparents’houseinasmallvillageinProvence.EverySundaymorningwelikedtolazeinourbeds,listeningoutforthesoundofthebaker’shornashestoppedhistruckinthevillagesquare.Weknewthatwhenweeventuallygotuptherewouldbetwoslicesofcrunchy,butteryfougassewaitingforusonthekitchentable.Wewouldnoisilydevourourfougassewithabowlofchocolatchaud,whilemygrandfathersilentlyreadhispaperandmygrandmotherporedoverthecrossword,justastheydideverySundaymorning.
Makes2loaves
100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter
100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
100ml(3½oz)whippingcream(35%fat)
Dough
350g(12oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)
190ml(6½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)
70g(2½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
30ml(1floz)virginoliveoil
6g(1/5oz)finesalt
3g(1/10oz)driedyeast
40g(1½oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature
LTomakethedough,puttheflour,water,sugar,oliveoil,saltandyeastinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment.Mixonlowspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomestogether.Increasethespeedtomediumandkneadfor8–10minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Duringthekneadingstage,scrapethedoughfromthehookandthesideofthebowltwoorthreetimes.Addthe40g(1½oz)ofbutterand
kneadforanother2–3minutes,oruntilthebutterhasbeenabsorbedintothedough.Removethedoughhook,coverthebowlwithaflouredclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilthedoughhasincreasedbytwo-thirds.
LDividethedoughinhalf.Placeoneportiononalightlyflouredworksurface,thensprinklealittleextraflouroverthetop.Usingyourpalms,flattenthedoughintoaroundabout2cm(3/4in)thick.Don’tworryaboutmakingittooeven,asthisbreadissupposedtolookrustic.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.Transfertotwolightlyflouredbakingtraysandfreezefor20minutes,oruntilthedoughhardensslightly.
LMeanwhile,putthebutterandsugarinasmallsaucepanandstiroverlowheatuntilmelted.Don’tboilthemixtureasthisdissolvesthesugarintothebutterand,asaresult,thebreadwillloseitscrunchytop.Removefromtheheatandsetasideuntilcooltothetouch.Removethedoughfromthefreezerandspreadhalfthesugarandbuttermixtureevenlyacrossthetopofeach,thencoverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.
LPreheattheovento200°C(400°F)atleast30minutesbeforebakingtheloaf.Whenthedoughhasproved,useyourfingertipstomakesmallcratersalloverthefougasse,about5cm(2in)apart;thispreventsthecreamfromrunningoffthesidesofthebreadduringthefinalstageofbaking.Bakefor10minutes,thenopentheovendoorandpourthecreamevenlyoverthetopofeachhotfougasse.Bakeforanother10minutes,oruntilthesidesofthebreadbegintoturngolden.Cooltoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.
P izzaMargherita
(Margheritapizza)Thismostfamousofpizzahaswithstoodthetestoftimeandthefutilitiesoffadstoremainthe
pizzaofchoicetheworldoverformorethan100years.Itshistoryiswellknown.MadeinhonourofQueenMargheritaofSavoyduringoneofhervisitstotheItaliancityofNaples,itwastoppedwithtomatoes,basilandmozzarellatoemulatethecoloursofthenationalflag.Whetherbycoincidenceofpuregeniusornot,thiscombinationofflavours,texturesandcolourshascometoillustratehowrestraintandhumility,whenusedproperly,arefarbetterthananylonglistofingredientsormethodology—twosimpleattributesthatsometimesrequirealifetimeoflearning,afactpoignantlycapturedbytheSpanishpainterPicassowhenhesaid,‘IttookmefouryearstopaintlikeRaphael,butalifetimetopaintlikeachild’.
Makesthree30cm(12in)pizzas
Dough
100ml(3½floz)virginoliveoil
500ml(17floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)
1kg(2lb4oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)
5g(1/8oz)driedyeast
20g(3/4oz)finesalt
Toppings
400g(14oz)freshbuffalomozzarella,cutinto5mm(¼in)slices
30basilleaves
Sauce
2tablespoonsvirginoliveoil,plusextra,fordrizzling
2brownonions,halvedandthinlysliced
2garliccloves,thinlysliced
800g(1lb12oz)trusstomatoes,coarselychopped
2teaspoonsdriedoregano
3thymesprigs,leavespicked
finesaltandgroundblackpepper,totaste
10basilleaves,finelychopped
LPreparethedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthe‘windowpane’test.Notethatwhilethisrecipeisslightlydifferent,theprocessremainsthesame.Simplyaddtheoiltothewater,thenmixwiththeflour,yeastandsalt.
LPlacethedoughinalightlyflouredbowlandcoverwithacloth.Setasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilrisenbyone-third.Whenthedoughhasrisen,knockitdownwithyourfist.Followingthedividingandballingmethod,dividethedoughintothreeequalportions,thenshapethedough.Coverandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor15minutes.
LMeanwhile,tomakethesauce,heattheoliveoilinalargefryingpanovermediumheat.Addtheonionsandgarlicandcook,stirringcontinuously,for5–8minutes,oruntilgolden.Addthechoppedtomatoes,oreganoandthyme,andseasontotastewithsaltandpepper.Rememberthatthesaucewilllosevolumeasthewaterevaporates,soalwaysholdbackalittleontheseasoninguntilthesaucehasfinishedcooking.Reducetheheattolow,thencoverandsimmerfor10minutes.Removethelid,increasetheheattomediumandsimmer,stirringcontinuouslyuntilathickpasteforms.Stirinthebasilandchecktheseasoning,thentransfertoabowlandleavetocool.Refrigerateuntilcold.
LPreheattheovento240°C(465°F).Ideally,placeapizzastoneorheavy-basedbakingtrayonthebottomshelfoftheoventopreheatatthesametime.Thishelpsthepizzabasetocookquickly,whichmeansitremainscrispafterbaking.
LRolloutthethreedoughportionsonalightlyflouredworksurfaceinto3mm(1/8in)thickrounds.Usealittleextraflourwhennecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Placetherolleddoughonthree30cm(12in)pizzatrays,thenuseyourhandstostretchthedoughbackintoshape.Coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor30minutes,oruntilincreasedinsizebyhalf.
LUnlessyourovenisbigenoughtocookallthreepizzasatthesametime,it’sbesttocookonepizzaatatime,thenprepareanotheronewhileitiscooking.Usingthebackofaspoon,spreadthesauceoverthepizzabase,leavinga2cm(3/4in)borderaroundtheedge(thedark,crunchycrustisactuallythetastiestpartofapizza!).Topwithmozzarellabutdon’tgetcarriedaway,becausetoomuchcheesewillnotonlyoverpowerthesharpnessofthetomatosauce,butitwillalsomakeitdifficultforthepizzastocookproperly.
LPlaceonthehotpizzastoneorbakingtrayonthebottomshelfoftheovenandbakefor12–
15minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removefromtheoven,scatterwithbasilleavesanddrizzlewithalittleoliveoil,theneatpipinghot,straightoutoftheoven.
Paindemieauyaourt
(Yoghurtbread)Recently,peopleseemtobeswitchingfromwhiteslicedbreadstothemorecomplextextures
andflavoursoftraditionalorsourdoughbreads.It’soneofthefewtrendsthatIabsolutelyunderstand,howeverthereareoccasionswhennothingbeatsasoftandfluffywhitebreadrollorsandwichbread.Asthetitleoftherecipesuggests,thisbreadismadewithyoghurt,givingitacreamysourfleshthatisslightlydenserthanwhitebread,andathin,velvetycrust.It’stheperfectalternativetotraditionalbreadswiththeirhardcrustsandsometimespungentsournessthatcanbealittleoverwhelmingforsome.
Makes1loaf
Poolish
1g(1/32oz)driedyeast
100ml(3½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)
100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)
Dough
100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)
2tablespoonshoney
50g(13/4oz)Greek-styleyoghurt
4g(1/8oz)finesalt
2g(1/16oz)driedyeast
10g(¼oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature
Eggwash( forbuns)
2eggs
pinchoffinesalt
LTomakethepoolish,followthemethod.Onceprepared,coverandsetasideatroomtemperaturefor3hours,oruntilthepoolishtriplesinvolume.
LTomakethedough,puttheflour,honey,yoghurtandpoolishinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachmentandkneadonlowspeedfor5minutes,oruntilthedoughcomestogether.Coverthebowlwithaclothandsetasidefor20minutes.
LAddthesalt,yeastandbuttertothedoughandkneadfor10minutesonlowspeeduntilwellcombined,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandkneadfor2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Tocheckwhetherthedoughisready,usethe‘windowpane’test.Removethedoughhook,coverthebowlwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.Usingyourfist,punchthedoughdowntoremovethegasbubbles.
LThisdoughcanbebakedasasingleloafordividedintoballsforhamburgersorhotdogbuns.Ifmakingaloaf,lightlygreasea15x25cm(6x10in)breadtin.Shapethedoughusingtheballingmethod.Puttheballeddoughintothetinandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1–2hours,oruntilapproximatelytripledinsize.Ifmakingbuns,dividethedoughinto120g(4¼oz)portionsforlongbuns(forhotdogs);80g(23/4oz)portionsforhamburgerbuns;and40g(1½oz)portionsforsmallsliderbuns.Onceshaped,placethebunsonabakingtraylinedwithbakingpaper,coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.
LIfcookingtheloaf,preheattheovento180°C(350°F).Coverthetinwithaflattray,thenweightitdownwithacast-ironpanorsimilar(theheavierthebetter).Bakefor40minutes,thenremovethetoptrayandweight,tiptheloafoverandremovethetinandbakeforanother15minutes,oruntilgolden.Leavetocoolfor1hourbeforeslicing.
LIfcookingthebuns,preheattheovento190°C(375°F).Meanwhile,tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowl.Whenthebunsareready,brushthemalloverwiththeeggwash.Bakefor10–12minutesforthelargerrollsand7–8minutesforthesmallsliderbuns,oruntilgolden.Unlikelayereddoughsusedforcroissantorpuffpastry,briochesandbreadscookquicklyandhaveatendencytodryup,soifyourespectthetemperatures,thecolourisactuallyaveryreliablewayofdecidingifyourbreadisready.
tip
Themaincharacteristicofpaindemieisitsdense,whiteflesh,whichisachievedbyaddingafattoatraditionalbreaddough.Asalways,IrecommendthatyouexperimentwiththerecipesIhavelistedinthisbook.Foradifferentresult,whynottryreplacingthebutter(fat)inthisrecipewiththesameamountofsoftbluecheeseorcreamymascarpone.
Pompeàl ’huiled ’oliveetàlafleurd ’oranger
(Oliveoilandorange-blossomsweetbread)Thisisgoingtobeanexceptiontotherule:asweetbreadmadewithapoolishmethod,thevery
thingIsaidIdislikedtobeginwith.WhileIdidmentionthatthedistinctivecharacteristicsofthepoolishmethodwerenottomytasteforrich,butteryandsubtleviennoiseriessuchasbriocheorcroissants,thoseveryattributesareintrinsictosomeofthemosttraditionalsweetbreads,andwhenitcomestotraditionalrecipes,thepompeàl’huileisonenottobemessedwith.
ThishumblefougasseisactuallyoneofthecompulsoryofferingsofthethirteendessertstraditionallyservedduringChristmasfestivitiesinProvence,thenumberthirteenbeingrepresentativeofChristandhistwelveapostlesattheLastSupper.Fourdessertsrepresentthemendiants(thefourordersofmonks)intheformofdriedfruitsandnuts(figs,hazelnuts,almondsandraisins);fourconfectioneriesareusedtorepresentgoodandevil(pompe,darknougat,whitenougatandjams);fourfreshfruits;andaspecialdessert,whichaccordingtolocalcustomcouldvaryfromcandiedfruitstoelaborateconfectioneries,torepresentChrist.Eventhoughthereligioussignificanceofthiscustomisnowoftenforgotten,youwillbehard-pressedtofindaChristmasmealanywhereinthesouthofFrancethatdoesn’tincludesomeelementsofthisage-oldtradition,whichcertainlyalwaysincludesapompeàl’huile.
Makes2
200ml(7floz)full-creammilk
1eggyolk
Poolish
1g(1/32oz)driedyeast
100ml(3½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)
100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)
Dough
300g(10½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)
150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
2tablespoonsorangeblossomwater
120ml(4¼floz)virginoliveoil
6g(1/5oz)finesalt
8g(¼oz)driedyeast
LTomakethepoolish,followthemethod.Onceprepared,coverandsetasideatroomtemperaturefor3hours,oruntilthepoolishtriplesinvolume.
LTomakethedough,putthepoolishandalltheingredientsforthedoughinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment.Kneadonlowspeedfor10minutes,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandkneadfor2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Tocheckwhetherthedoughisready,usethe‘windowpane’test.Removethedoughhookanddustalittleflouroverthedough,thencoverthebowlwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor45minutes,oruntildoubledinsize.
LDividethedoughinhalf,thenshapethedoughusingtheballingmethoddescribed.Placetheballsonatraylightlydustedwithflour,coverwithaclothandsetasidetorestfor15minutes.
LRollouteachballonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa20cm(8in)roundabout2.5cm(1in)thick.Thesebreadsaremeanttobequiterustic,sodon’tstresstoomuchaboutmakingaperfectcircle.Concentrateinsteadonmakingsurethedoughisaneventhickness,asanythinnerareasmayburn.Placetheroundsonbakingtrayslinedwithbakingpaper.Coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1–2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.
LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F)atleast30minutesbeforebaking.Lightlybeatthemilkandeggyolkinasmallbowl,thenbrushalloverthebreads.Usingaparingknifedippedintheeggwash,cutpatternsstraightthroughthedough(usethephotographasaguide).Iusuallycutaholeinthemiddle,thenmakefourlongcutsoppositeeachother,similartothenumbersonaclockface.Feelfreetobecreativewithyourdesign—thecutsinthebreadonlyservetoimprovetheoveralllookofthepompeafterbaking,nothingmore.Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor15minutes,oruntilgolden.Removefromtheovenandcooltoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.
Idon’tmeantoscareyouoranything,butsuperstitiondictatesthatyoushouldnevercutthepompewithaknifeoryouwillriskayearofbadluck.Instead,youshouldalways‘break’thebreadwithyourhands.Youcanneverbetoocareful!
Fougasseauxherbes,àlapommedeterreetauxolivesnoires
(Potato,blackoliveandherbfougasse)Thisrecipeisverysimilartotheearlieroneforolivefougasse,butthisismadewithamore
complexpoolishdough.Mymainintentionofincludingithereistoillustratethat,irrespectiveofthetraditionalmethodsandflavoursusedintherecipe,it’sthetypeofrecipethatwillsuitmostflavoursandtoppings—it’sentirelyamatterofpersonalpreference.Servethissoft,aromaticflatbreadasaquicklunchorcutitintobite-sizedpiecesandserveasanappetiser.
Forthisrecipe,Iamstickingwithmyfavourites:potatoes,thyme,rosemaryandolives.Forme,thisisProvenceonaplate—humble,resourcefulandintoxicatingallatonce.
Makes1loaf
500g(1lb2oz)PainsurPoolsih
500g(1lb2oz)all-purposepotatoes,suchasdesiree
oliveoil,fordrizzling
3rosemarysprigs,leavespicked
80g(23/4oz)thyme(about½bunch),leavespicked(reserveafewsprigs)
saltandgroundblackpepper,totaste
200g(7oz)blackolives,pitted
LPreparethedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.
LRolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredsurfaceintoa20x40cm(8x16in)rectangle,about5mm(¼in)thick.Aswithmostdoughsforpizzasandfocaccia,don’tspendtoomuchtimetryingtogetaperfectrectangle.Notonlyaretheymeanttoberustic,butthedoughwillbecometoosoftandwillbegintoproveifyouspendtoomuchtimefiddlingabout.Placetherolleddoughontoalightlygreasedorlinedbakingtray,coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.
LMeanwhile,peelthepotatoesandkeeptheminabowlofcoldwaterasyougo,tostopthemfrombrowning.Usingtheslicingattachmentonthefoodprocessororamandolin,cutthepotatoesinto2mm(1/16)thinslices.Thepotatohastocookquicklybeforethebreadburns,soitisimportantthatallthepotatoslicesarecutintothin,evenslices.Youcanusealargeknifetodothis,butyouwillhavetomakesurethepotatoesarethinlysliced—thereisnothingworsethanrawpotato!Asyouslicethepotatoes,placethemintoabowlfullofcoldwatertopreventthem
frombrowning,andrefrigerateuntilneeded.
LPreheattheovento220°C(430°F)atleast30minutesbeforebaking.Brushthefougassegenerouslywitholiveoil,sprinklehalftherosemaryandthymeleavesoverthetopandpushthemintothedoughusingyourfingertips.Drainthepotatoesandpatdryonpapertowel,thenplacetheminslightlyoverlappinglayersovertheherbs.Spendabitoftimeorganisingyourpotatoesslicesinanicepattern,startingfromonecornerofthedoughandworkingyourwaytotheoppositeside.Drizzlewithoil,seasonwithagenerousamountofsaltandpepper,thenscatterwiththeolivesandremainingrosemaryandthymeleavesandsprigs.Bakefor12–15minutes,oruntiltheedgesofthepotatoesbegintoturnbrown.Servestraightoutoftheovenoratroomtemperature.
tip
ThesetoppingsaretypicallyProvençal,butyoucanusewhateversuitsyourowntaste.Asoneidea:spreadathinlayerofthick(double/heavy)creamdirectlyontothedough,topwiththinlyslicedpumpkinandseasonwithnutmeg.
Chaussonàl ’abricotsafranéetauyaourt
(Apricot,saffronandyoghurtpockets)Oneofmyall-timefavourites,thischaussonisavariationonthetraditionalpompebreadrecipe.
It’sfilledwithsweetpoachedapricots,balancedwithjusttherightamountofacidityfromtheyoghurtandasubtlefloralearthinessfromthesaffron.Thisrecipeisaperfectexampleofhowcomplexflavours,whenusedcorrectly,canproducewholesomesimplicity.
Makes15
200ml(7floz)full-creammilk
2eggyolks
250g(9oz)Greek-styleyoghurt
200g(7oz)flakedalmonds
Poolish
1g(1/32oz)driedyeast
100ml(3½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)
100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)
Poachedapricots
1.2kg(2lb10oz)caster(superfine)sugar
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways
1kg(2lb4oz)freshapricots,halvedandpitted
½teaspoonsaffronthreads
Dough
300g(10½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)
100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
120ml(4¼floz)virginoliveoil
6g(1/5oz)finesalt
8g(¼oz)driedyeast
LTomakethepoolish,followthemethod.Onceprepared,coverandsetasideatroomtemperaturefor3hours,oruntilthepoolishtriplesinvolume.
LMeanwhile,tomakethepoachedapricots,putthesugar,halvedvanillabeansand2litres(70floz)waterinalargesaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Removefromtheheat,addtheapricotsandsaffron,thencoverwithplasticwrapandsetasideuntilcool.Refrigerateovernight.Straintheapricotsandvanillabeansoverabowl,reservingthesyrupforanotheruse(itcanberefrigeratedformonthsandcanbeusedforavarietyofthings,fromcordialtococktailsorevenasasyrupforpoundcakes).Pattheapricotsdryonpapertowelandplacetheminasmallfoodprocessor.Usingasmallknife,scrapethevanillaseedsintothefoodprocessoranddiscardthevanillabeans.Pulsetheapricotmixtureoneortwotimestobreaktheapricotsupalittle.Alternatively,mashthemalittlewithafork.
LTomakethedough,putthepoolishandalltheingredientsforthedoughinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment.Kneadonlowspeedfor10minutes,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandkneadfor2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Tocheckwhetherthedoughisready,usethe‘windowpane’test.Removethedoughhookanddustalittleflouroverthedough,thencoverthebowlwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor45minutes,oruntildoubledinsize.
LLineabakingtraywithbakingpaper.Rolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout1cm(½in)thick.Usinga20cm(8in)roundcutter,cutout15circlesfromthedough,carefullyplaceonthelinedtrayandfreezefor1hour.Atthisstage,thedoughwillbesoftandthedoughcircleswilllosetheirshapeeasily,butchillingthemwillhelpfixthis,sodon’tworrytoomuchabouthowregularthecirclesare.
LTomakeaneggwash,lightlybeatthemilkandeggyolkstogetherinasmallbowl.Removethedoughcirclesfromthefreezerandrollthemagainuntil3mm(1/8in)thick,thencuttheexcessdoughwiththecutter.Atthisstagetheyshouldbefirm.Brushtheeggwasharoundtheoutsideedgesofeachcircle—usejustenoughsothatthedoughistackyenoughtosticktogetherwhenfolded.Reservetheremainingeggwashforlater.
LSpoon1½tablespoonsofapricotsintothemiddleofeachround,thencovertheapricotswith2teaspoonsyoghurt.Foldonesideofthedoughoverthefillingtoformasemicircle,thenuseyourfingertipstopressaroundtheedgetoseal.Usethecuttertotrimandneatenanyexcessdough,thenplaceonlinedbakingtray,coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1½hours,oruntilthedoughhasrisen.
LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F)atleast30minutesbeforebaking.Brushthechaussonwith
theremainingeggwashandsprinklewithflakedalmonds.Pokeasmallholeineachonewiththetipofaknife,toallowthesteamtoescape.Bakefor15minutes,oruntilgolden.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolonthetray.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.
Confitures,compotes,pâtesàtartineretcrèmes
‘T heruleis,jamtomorrowandjamyesterday—butneverjamtoday.’
THROUGHTHELOOKINGGLASS,LEWISCARROLL
Confitures,compotes,pâtesàtartineretcrèmes
(Jams,compotes,spreadsandcreams)
Fromsalttosugar,vinegartoalcohol,peoplehavebeenexperimentingwithvariouswaysofpreservingseasonalfruitsandvegetablesformillenniums.Nowadays,withadvancesinmethodsofpreservingfoods,sterilisationandsoon,concoctionssuchasjamsandpreservesofallformsarejustanotherdeliciouswayofenjoyingourfruitandvegetables.
Ifyou’veeverbeentoFrance,youwillhavenoticedhowmuchtheFrenchlovetheirspreadsandjams—nobreakfasttablewouldbecompletewithoutanassortmentofjamsandaslicedbaguette,todipintoyourbowlofcaféaulait.WhenIwasachildIwasluckyenoughtospendmytimeoffschoolinthecountry,whenpickingfruitsandberriestomakejamsandpreserveswasconsideredfun.Wewouldspenddaysscavengingforberries,occasionallyraidinganearbyfruitorchard,thengohomewithourbucketsbrimming.Ourgrandmotherhelpedusmixallthosefruitsinlargecopperpots,andmyjobwastostayclosetothestove,stirringthefragrantjamswithawoodenspoon.Whentheyturnedtranslucentandshiny,wepouredthemintoanassortmentofjarsthatwe’dsavedupoverthewinter.
Confitures
(Jams)ThefoodindustryinFrance,fromproductionallthewaytotheretailshelf,isstringently
controlledbygovernmentaldecrees,proprietarymethodsorregionalbrandnames.Assuch,jamsmanufacturedforretailneedtocontainatleast55percentsugaraftercooking,andatleast35percentfruitbeforecooking,inordertobesoldunderthenameofconfitures.
WhileIamsurethoserulesandregulationsarecriticalinmaintainingthestandardsandconsistencyofproductssoldaroundtheworld,therecipesinthisbookdon’tmeetthoserules—Iwasactuallymoreconcernedwithwritingrecipesthatweretastyandeasytoachieve.Thesugarcontentandboilingtimeforthejamsinthefollowingrecipeshavebeendramaticallyreducedtopreservetheintegrityoftheflavourandtasteofthefruits,andtopreservesomeofthevitaminsandcolourthatallbutdieoffduringthetraditionallylengthycookingperiod.
storageinstructions:
LDuetotheirlowsugarcontent,thesejamsmustbekeptinthefridge,evenpriortoopening,andlabelledwiththeexpirydatessuggestedintherecipes.
Confituredeframboisesàlanoixdecoco
(Raspberryandcoconutjam)
Makesabout800ml(28floz)
200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar
10g(¼oz)powderedpectin
100ml(3½floz)tinnedcoconutcream
500g(1lb2oz)freshorfrozenraspberries(seetip)
LTosterilisethejars,placefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsinalargesaucepanandcoverwithhotwater.Bringtotheboiloverhighheat,thenreducetheheattomediumandsimmergentlyfor5minutes.Removethepanfromtheheat.Usingapairofkitchentongs,carefullyremovethejarsandlidsfromthehotwaterandplacethemupsidedownonacleanclothonyourworksurface.Takecareastheywillbeextremelyhot!
LPutthesugarandpectininabowlandstiruntilverywellcombined—thisavoidstheformationoflumpslaterintheprocess.
LPutthecoconutcreamandraspberriesinaheavy-basedsaucepanovermediumheat.Heavy-basedpansaregreatatspreadingthedirectheatoftheflameorheatingelement,whichreducesthechanceofburningthejam.Bringtotheboil,stirringoccasionally.Atthispointtheberriesshouldbebreakingdown.Addthesugarmixtureandstircontinuouslyuntilthesugarhascompletelydissolved.Reducetheheattolowandcontinuestirringgentlyfor10minutes,oruntiltranslucent.Itishardtotellbysightifthejamisready,asthejamhasverylittlesugarandhastorelypredominantlyonthepectin(foritstextureandthickness)tobloomovernighttoset.Assoonasthejambeginsboiling,thepectinhasbeenactivated.
LPourthehotjamintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims,thensealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(3monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.
tip
Ialwaysrecommendusingfreshberriesfortheserecipes.Thatbeingsaid,youwillgetaverysimilarresultusingfrozenfruits,providingyouaccountfor the fact that they contain a slightly higher water content, and will therefore need to simmer for an additional 5 minutes to allow for extraevaporation.
Confituredefraisesàlamentheetaucitronvert
(Strawberry,mintandlimejam)
Makesabout800ml(28floz)
200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar
10g(¼oz)powderedpectin
10largemintleaves,chopped
550g(1lb4oz)strawberries,hulled
finelygratedzestandjuiceof1lime
LSterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.
LPutthesugarandpectininabowlandstiruntilverywellcombined—thisavoidstheformationoflumpslaterintheprocess.Wrapthechoppedmintinapieceofmuslin(cheesecloth)oracleanclothandsecurethetopwithstring,tomakeabagsimilartoabouquetgarni.
LPutthestrawberries,1tablespoonwaterandthemintparcelinaheavy-basedsaucepanoververylowheat.Heavy-basedpansaregreatatspreadingthedirectheatoftheflameorheatingelement,whichreducesthechanceofburningthejam.Coverthepanandcook,stirringoccasionallyandmakingsurethemixturedoesn’tboil,untiltheberriesstarttobreakdown.Addthesugarmixtureandstircontinuouslyuntilthesugarhascompletelydissolved.Then,continuestirringgentlyfor10minutes,oruntiltranslucent.Itishardtotellbysightifthejamisready,asthejamhasverylittlesugarandhastorelypredominantlyonthepectin(foritstextureandthickness)tobloomovernighttoset.Assoonasthejambeginsboiling,thepectinhasbeenactivated.
LRemovethemintparcel,thenstirinthelimezestandjuice.Pourthehotjamintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims,thensealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(3monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.
Confituredemelonàlacannelleetaucitronconfit
(Rockmelon,cinnamonandconfitlemonjam)
Makesabout800ml(28floz)
½lemon,preferablyorganic
200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar
½teaspoongroundcinnamon
15g(½oz)powderedpectin
700g(1lb9oz)riperockmelon(about1largemelon),peeledandcutinto2cm(3/4in)pieces
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways
LWashthelemonthoroughlyunderhotwatertoremoveanywax.Removetheseeds,thenfinelychoptheskinandfleshintoaroughpaste.
LPutthesugar,cinnamonandpectininabowlandstiruntilverywellcombined—thisavoidstheformationoflumpslaterintheprocess.Addthelemonpaste,choppedmelonandvanillabeansand,usingyourhands,combinewell.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandsetasidefor1hour.
LMeanwhile,sterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.
LTransferthefruitandsugarmixturetoaheavy-basedsaucepanandplaceovermediumheat.Heavy-basedpansaregreatatspreadingthedirectheatoftheflameorheatingelement,whichreducesthechanceofburningthejam.Bringtotheboil,stirringcontinuously,thenreducetheheattolowandcontinuestirringforanother15minutes,oruntilthemelonbecomestranslucent.Itishardtotellbysightifthejamisready,asthejamhasverylittlesugarandhastorelypredominantlyonthepectin(foritstextureandthickness)tobloomovernighttoset.Assoonasthejambeginsboiling,thepectinhasbeenactivated.
LUsingapairofkitchentongs,removethevanillabeansandreserve.Pourthehotjamintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims.Addonehalvedvanillabeantoeachjarandsealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(3monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.
technicaltip
Pectinisacolloid,apolysaccharidefoundintheskinand,toalesserextent,thefleshoffruitsandvegetables.Itiswidelyusedasagellingagentandstabiliserinfood(E440),butalsointherapeuticmedicinesandthepharmaceuticalindustry.Now,gettingbacktoourjam…Aspectinneedsanacidtoactivatefully,wecancontrolthethicknessorviscosityofthejambyaddingorreducingboththeamountofpectinandacidweadd.Inthisrecipe,Ihaveincreasedtheamountofpectinandaddedanacid(thelemon).Thiswillhelpstabilisethehighwater/lowpectincontentoftherockmelon.
Confitured ’ananaspoivrée
(Pepperedpineapplejam)
Makesabout800ml(28floz)
½lemon,preferablyorganic
500g(1lb2oz)ripepineappleflesh(about1smallpineapple),cutinto2cm(3/4in)cubes1/8teaspoonfinelygroundblackpepper
10g(¼oz)powderedpectin
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways
250g(9oz)caster(superfine)sugar
LSterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.
LWashthelemonthoroughlyunderhotwatertoremoveanywax.Removetheseeds,thenfinelychoptheskinandflesh.
LPutthelemon,pineapple,pepper,pectinandvanillabeansinabowlandcombinewell.Coverandsetasidefor1hour.Unliketheotherjamsinthisbook,thepectinisnotaddedtothesugar,asitwouldburnduringthecaramelisationprocess.Consequently,itrequiresatleast1hourtohydrateandsoftenupinthejuicesofthefruitpriortocooking.
LPut80ml(2½floz)waterinaheavy-basedsaucepan,thenaddthesugarandmixgentlywithyourfingertipsorasmallspatula.Becarefulnottosplattertoomuchsugararoundthesideofthepanoryouwillincreasetheriskofcrystallisingthesugar(seetips).Bringtotheboiloverhighheat,thenreducetheheattomediumandcook,withoutstirring,untilthesugarbeginstocaramelise.Stirringthesyrupwillincreasethechancesofthecaramelcrystallising,sogentlytiltthepanuntilthecaramelisaneven,lightbrowncolourthroughout.Assoonasyouarehappywiththecolourofthecaramel,increasetheheattohigh,thenimmediatelyaddthepineapplemixtureandstircontinuously.Beverycarefulwhenaddingaliquid(orfruitthatcontainsalotofliquid)tocaramelasthiscreatesalotofveryhotsteam.Alwayskeepyourhandsasfarawayfromthemixtureaspossiblewhenaddingthefruit.
LReducetheheattolow,thencoverandsimmer,withoutstirring,for10minutes.Thesteamandheatwillforcethewateroutofthepineappleanddissolveanypiecesofhardcaramel.Removethelid,add200ml(7floz)water,thenincreasetheheattomediumandsimmer,stirringcontinuously,foranother30minutes.Itishardtotellbysightifthejamisready,asthe
jamhasverylittlesugarandhastorelypredominantlyonthepectin(foritstextureandthickness)tobloomovernighttoset.Assoonasthejambeginsboiling,thepectinhasbeenactivated.
LUsingapairofkitchentongs,removethevanillabeansandreserve.Pourthehotjamintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims.Addonehalvedvanillabeantoeachjarandsealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(3monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.
technicaltips
Sugar,oncedissolvedinaliquidwillhaveapropensitytoreturntoitscrystallisedstate,causingyourhotsyruptomasse,orcrystalliseintoalumpofopaque,hardsugar.So,thegoalistostopanyofthesugarcrystallisingduringcooking.Hereareafewtipstopreventthisproblem:
LMakesureyoursugardoesnotcontainanyimpurities(suchascrumbs,smallcoffeegrainsorflour).
LWhenmakingheavysyrup(highinsugar)orcookedsugar,alwaysdissolvethesugarslowlyinthewater(youcancompletethisstageevena
fewhoursbeforeyouneedit),andthencookthesugarquicklytoavoidcrystallisation.
LAlwaysdissolveyoursugarbyaddingatleast30percentofitsweightinwater.
LUseassmallapanaspossible,tomaintainconsistentheatacrossthewholesyrup.
LUseasmallbrushtoremoveanysugarcrystalsthatformonthesideofyourpanduringcooking.
LDon’tstirthesyruponceithasbeguntoboil.
Compotes
(Compotes)Firstdescribedinafifteenth-centurycookbookasa‘spicedandsweetenedapplepurée’,
compotesnowcomeinallmannerofflavours.Thebasicrequirementsofcompotesarethattheyshouldbemadeofchunksoffleshyfruit(suchasapples,figsorpears),becookedinalight,spicedsyrupandrelyentirelyonthefruits’ownpectinfortheirtexture.Thisisunlikejams,whichcontainmuchmoresugarandoftentheadditionofpectin,topreservethefruit.
Personally,Ithinkcompotesareamorerefinedandhealthyalternativetoclassicjams.Theyarefullofvitamins(unlikejams,whichlosealotoftheirnutrientsduringtheboilingprocess),theycontainalotlesssugarandcanbeservedasaspreadonabutteredbaguette,awarmcroissantorFrenchtoast.Theyalsotasteamazingasanaccompanimenttoasimplefruitsalad,yoghurtandcheese,orasasubstituteforicecreamonawarmchocolatecakeortartetatin.
storageinstructions:
LDuetotheirlowsugarcontent,thesecompotesmustbekeptinthefridge,evenpriortoopening,andlabelledwiththeexpirydatessuggestedintherecipes.
Compotedepoiresàl ’orgeat
(Pearandorgeatsyrupcompote)
Makesabout800ml(28floz)
600g(1lb5oz)firmwilliams(bartlett)pears(about4),oranybutterypear
juiceof2lemons
100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
60ml(2floz)orgeatsyrup
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways
LSterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.
LPeel,coreandcutthepearsinto2cm(3/4in)cubesandplaceinaheavy-basedsaucepan.Addtheremainingingredientsanduseyourhandstocombinewell.Coverthepanandcookovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,for10minutes,oruntilthepearsbegintobreakdownintoacoarsepurée.Thesteamgeneratedandtrappedunderthelidwillprovidetheheatnecessarytobreakdownthefibresinthefruitandwillreleasethewaterwithlittleornoriskofburningthebottomofthepan.
LUsingkitchentongs,removethevanillabeans,thenscrapetheseedsoutofthebeansintothecompote.Stirthecompoteuntilthevanillaseedsaredispersedevenlythroughout.
LSpoonthehotcompoteintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims,thensealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(1monthfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.
Compoted ’abricotsàlaverveinecitronnelle
(Apricotandlemonverbenacompote)
Makesabout800ml(28floz)
50g(13/4oz)lemonverbenaleaves,coarselychopped(or6lemonverbenateabags)
600g(1lb5oz)ripeapricots,halvedandstonesremoved
150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways
LWrapthechoppedlemonverbenaleavesinapieceofmuslin(cheesecloth)oracleanclothandsecurethetopwithstring,tomakeabagsimilartoabouquetgarni.
LPuttheapricots,sugar,vanillabeansandthelemonverbenaparcelinaheavy-basedsaucepanandcombinewell.Ifyouareusingteabags,don’taddthemyetastheyarefragileandwillbreakapartduringtheearlystagesofcooking.Coverthepanandcookovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,for15minutes,oruntiltheapricotsbegintobreakdownintoacoarsepurée.Thesteamgeneratedandtrappedunderthelidwillprovidetheheatnecessarytobreakdownthefibresinthefruitandwillreleasethewaterwithlittleornoriskofburningthebottomofthepan.Ifusingthelemonverbenateabags,reducetheheattolowandaddthemtothepan.Simmerfor5minutes,stirringcontinuously.
LTransferthecompotetoaheat-resistantbowl.Coverandsetasideuntilcool,thenrefrigerateovernight.Don’tremovethemuslinparcel(orteabags)orthevanillabeansatthisstage,astheywillreleasethebulkoftheirflavourduringthecooling-downperiod.
LMeanwhile,sterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.
LRemovethelemonverbenaparcelorteabagsfromthecompoteandsqueezethemgentlywithyourhandstoextractasmuchflavouraspossible—don’tsqueezetheteabagstoohardortheywillburst.Scrapetheseedsoutofthevanillabeansintothecompoteandstiruntiltheseedsareevenlydispersedthroughout.
LSpoonthecompoteintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims,thensealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(1monthfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.
Compotedepommesetderhubarbe
(Appleandrhubarbcompote)
Makesabout1litre(35floz)
300g(10½oz)rhubarbstems(about5stems)
600g(1lb5oz)greenapples(about4),suchasgrannysmiths
100g(3½oz)honey
100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
½teaspoongroundcinnamon
LSterilisefive200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.
LTrimtherhubarbofanyleavesandcutthestemsinto1cm(½in)thickslices.Put500ml(17floz)waterinalargesaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Assoonasthewaterboils,addtherhubarbandcookfor5minutes,oruntiltender,thendrainwell.Placeonacleanclothandpatdry.
LPeelandcoretheapplesandcutinto2cm(3/4in)cubes.Puttherhubarb,apples,honey,sugarandcinnamoninaheavy-basedsaucepanandcombinewell.Coverthepanandcookovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,for10–15minutes,oruntiltheapplesbegintobreakdownintoacoarsepurée.Thesteamgeneratedandtrappedunderthelidwillprovidetheheatnecessarytobreakdownthefibresinthefruitandwillreleasethewaterwithlittleornoriskofburningthebottomofthepan.
LSpoonthehotcompoteintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims,thensealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(1monthfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.
technicaltip
For this recipe, I have substituted some of the sugarwith honey.Honey is an inverted sugar, high in fructose. Thismonosaccharide has two verybeneficialpropertiesinbaking.Firstly,itisapproximately65percentsweeterthansucrose(sugar)andisthereforeidealtobalanceoutacidicrecipes,such as this apple and rhubarb compote,without dramatically needing to increase the ratio of refined sugar. Secondly, the honey slows down thecrystallisationofsucroseinyourmix,thereforeincreasingboththetextureandshelflife.
Pâtesàtartiner
(Spreads)Literallyspeaking,pâtesàtartinercanbetranslatedas‘pastetospreadontartines’,thosebeing
slicesofbreadusuallyeateninthemorning,dunkedintoalargebowlofhotchocolateorcaféaulait.Ofcoursejams,marmalades,honeys,softcheeses…allofthoseareindeedspreads,butthewayIlookatitisthattheyalreadyhaveaspecificnametocategorisethemandtherecipesthatfollowdon’t—justlikepeanutbutter,theyaresimplyspreadable…anddelicious.
storageinstructions:
LDuetotheirlowsugarcontent,thesespreadsmustbekeptinthefridge,evenpriortoopening,andlabelledwiththeexpirydatessuggestedintherecipes.
Pâteàtartinerchoco-noisette
(Hazelnutandchocolatespread)
Makesabout800ml(28floz)
200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar
600g(1lb5oz)hazelnuts,roastedandskinned(seetip)
100g(3½oz)unsweetenedcocoapowder
50g(13/4oz)full-creammilkpowder
2tablespoonsvegetableoil
largepinchofsaltflakes
LSterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.Placea50cm(20in)longpieceofbakingpaperoralargesiliconematontheworksurface.
LTomakethepraline,put80ml(23/4floz)waterinaheavy-basedsaucepan,thenaddthesugarandmixgentlywithasmallspatula.Becarefulnottosplattertoomuchsugararoundthesideofthepanoryouwillincreasetheriskofcrystallisingthesugar.Bringtotheboiloverhighheat,thenreducetheheattomediumandcook,withoutstirring,untilthesugarbeginstocaramelise.Stirringthesyrupwillincreasethechanceofthecaramelcrystallising,sogentlytiltthepanuntilthecaramelisanevenlightbrowncolour.
LReducetheheattolow,thenstirinthehazelnutsandquicklytipthemixtureoverthepaperorsiliconemat,spreadingitoutasthinlyasyoucanwithaspatula.Leavetocool,thencoverthepralinewithaclothandusearollingpinorsaucepantobashitintosmallpieces.
LPutthepralinepiecesintoafoodprocessorwiththecocoapowder,milkpowder,oilandsaltflakes.Usingthepulsebutton,processuntilfinelychopped,thenprocessonhighspeeduntilapasteforms.Stopmixingassoonasyouarehappywiththetextureofyourspread.Thelongeryoumixit,thesmootheritwillget.
LDividethepasteamongthesterilisedjarsandseal.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(6monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Storeinthefridge.
tip
Thehazelnutsinthisspreadcanbereplacedwithanyothernut;however,youmustadjustthelevelsoffataccordinglytoachieveasimilartexture.Thisrecipeisdesignedforhazelnuts,whichcontainaround60percentoil,or360g(123/4oz).Ifyouweretousealmonds,whichcontain50percentoil(300g/10½ozfor600g/1lb5ozofalmonds),orpistachios,youwouldhavetoaddanadditional60g(2¼oz)ofvegetableoil,bringingthetotalvegetableoilamountto100g(3½oz).
Confituredelait
(Milkjam)
Makesabout600ml(21floz)
1litre(35floz)full-creammilk
300g(10½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
½teaspoonsaltflakes
3vanillabeans,halvedlengthways
LSterilisethree200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.
LPutalltheingredientsinaheavy-basedsaucepanandcombinewell.Cookoverhighheatuntilthemixturecomestotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow.Usingaslottedspoon,removethefoamfromthetopofthemilk,thencontinuetosimmerfor1½hours,stirringevery10minuteswithaheat-resistantflatspatula(usingawhiskwillcreatefoam,whichyouwanttoavoid).Duringthelast30minutesofcooking,themixtureshouldbegintothickenandcarameliseslowly,sopaycloseattentionandstircontinuouslytomakesurethemixturedoesn’tcatchonthebottomofthepanandburn.Itisimportanttonotethatthecookingtimesindicatedarepurelytobeusedasaguide.Thisjamisreadyfromtheminuteitthickensandcaramelises;thelongeryouleaveit,thethickeritwillgetandthelesssweetitwillbecome.
LUsingkitchentongs,removeanddiscardthevanillabeans,thenspoonthehotcaramelintothesterilisedjars,butdonotsealthemforatleast1hour,oruntilthecaramelreachesroomtemperature.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(1monthfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Sealandstoreinthefridge.
Pâtedecaramelaubeurresalé
(Saltedcaramelspread)
Makesabout600ml(21floz)
150ml(5floz)whippingcream(35%fat)
300g(10½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,chopped
4g(1/8oz)saltflakes
LSterilisethree200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.
LPutthecreaminasmallsaucepanandcookoverlowheatuntiljustwarm.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.
LPutthesugarinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverhighheatandstircontinuouslywithaflat,heat-resistantspatula.Alwaysuseamediumtolargesaucepanforthesetypesofcaramels,asintroducingacoolerliquidtoaveryhotcaramelcreatesalotofsteamandintenselyhotbubbles,sothelargerthepan,thebetter.Assoonasthesugarbeginstocaramelisearoundtheedges,reducetheheattolowandcontinuestirring.Atthisstage,youwillnoticelarge,crystallisedlumpsofsugar;thisisactuallypartoftheprocessofcookingadrycaramel.Whenthecaramelbeginstofoam(atthisstage,thecolourshouldbeturningbrown/redandthelumpsshouldbetotallydissolved),increasetheheattohigh,andslowlyincorporatethewarmcreamwhilemixing.Alwayskeepyourhandsasfarawayfromthecaramelasyoucanduringthisprocess!
LCookthemixture,stirringoccasionally,untilitreaches110°C(230°F)onasugarthermometer.Removefromtheheatandstirinthebutteruntilwellcombined.Usingastickblender,processthecaramelfor1–2minutes,oruntilemulsified.Stirinthesaltflakes.
LSpoonthehotcaramelintothesterilisedjars,butdonotsealthemforatleast1hour,oruntilthecaramelreachesroomtemperature.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(2monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Sealandstoreinthefridge.
Whatmakessaltedcaramelsodelicious?Tounderstandthis,youneedtounderstandalittleabouthowtastes,inparticularsaltinessandbitterness,worktogether.Tastesaresensedbytastebudsinourmouth.Eachofthosetastesaredetectedindividually,sothereforeanystrongtastewillreducetheperceivedtasteofothers.Forinstance,anoverlysweetcurdwillnumbyourtonguetoanyothertasteorany
subtlenuancesinflavour.Youcaneitherincreaseorreducetheperceivedeffectofaparticulartaste(andoverallflavour)byincreasingorevenintroducinganothertaste.Saltedcaramelisaverygoodexampleofthis.Weovercookthecarameltoreducetheinherentsweetnessofthesugar.Wethenaddalittlesalttoneutralisethebitternessborneoutofovercookingthecaramel,resultinginaharmoniousbalanceofflavours,wherenotasteoverpowerstheother.
Crèmes
(Creams)
Crèmed ’amandes
(Almondcream)
Makesabout500g(1lb2oz)
note:Tomakepistachiocream,substitute100g(3½oz)ofthealmondmealwithpistachiomealanduse
kirschinsteadofrum.
150g(5½oz)unsaltedbutter,softbutnotmelted
150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
1egg
1eggyolk
150g(5½oz)almondmeal
25g(1oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
75g(23/4oz)Custard(opposite)(optional)
40ml(1¼floz)rum
LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthebutterandsugaronmediumspeed,scrapingdownthesideofthebowlwithaspatula,untilcreamyandsmooth.
LReducethespeedtolow,thenaddtheeggandeggyolksoneatatime,makingsureeachadditionisfullyabsorbedbeforeaddingthenext.
LAddthealmondmealandflourandbeatuntiljustcombined,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandbeatuntillightandfluffy.Addthecustard,ifusing,andrumandbeatuntilsmoothandwellcombined.Transfertoabowl,coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwraptopreventaskinforming,thenrefrigerateforupto7days.
tip
Aeratedbatters,suchasalmondcreams,willlosetheircreaminessandtexturewhentheyarerefrigeratedformorethanafewhours.Ifyou’renotusingthemstraightaway,bringbacktoroomtemperature,thenwhiskinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentuntilsmooth.
Crèmepâtissière
(Custard)
Makesabout700g(1lb9oz)
500ml(17floz)full-creammilk
1vanillabean,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped
25g(1oz)plain(all-purpose)flour
35g(1¼oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)
100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar
1egg
1eggyolk
50g(13/4oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature
LBringthemilk,vanillabeanandseedstotheboilinasaucepanovermediumheat.
LMeanwhile,puttheflour,cornflourandsugarinaheatproofbowlandcombinewell.Addtheeggandeggyolkand,usingahand-heldwhisk,beatuntilwellcombinedandcreamy.
LWhenthemilkreachesboilingpoint,removethevanillabeans.Whiskingcontinuously,graduallyaddhalfofthemilktothesugarandeggmixtureandcombinewell,thentransfertothepanwiththeremainingmilk.Whiskcontinuouslyovermediumheatuntilthecustardcomestotheboil,thencontinuewhiskingforanother2minutes.
LRemovefromtheheatandtransferthecustardtothebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment.Addthebutterandbeatonlowspeedfor10minutes,oruntilwarmtothetouch.Transfertoabowl,coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwraptopreventaskinforming,thenrefrigerateforupto2days.
LBeforeusing,lightlywhiskinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachmentuntilsmooth.
Glossary
abaisseAlaminatedorflattenedblockofpastry.
amelioratedAtermdescribingtheadditionofingredientstoabasedoughtoimproveitstextureorflavour.Examplesofamelioratedbreaddoughsarebriochesandfougasses.
autolyseAlsoknownasthe‘delayedsaltmethod’,thisisabread-makingtechniquewheretheflourandwateraremixedtogetherpriortointroducingtheyeastandsalt.Thedoughisthenlefttorest,improvingwaterabsorptionandsubsequentglutendevelopment.Autolysingultimatelyreducesthekneadingtimeandimprovesthetextureofthedough.Saltinhibitsthisprocess,soisaddedafterwards.
bain-marieUsedtoslowlyandgentlywarm,meltorcookingredientsinavesselsuspendedoverasaucepanofhotorwarmwater;adoubleboiler;awaterbath.
ballingAfterthefirstprove,thedoughneedstobeballed,aprocessdesignedtostretchtheglutenandincreaseelasticitysothedoughretainsitsshapeduringtheprovingstage.
beurrenoisetteButtercookeduntilthewaterhasevaporatedandthefathasgonethroughtheMaillardreaction(non-enzymaticbrowning).Thisprocessaddsthesubtleflavourofhazelnuts(noisettes)toyourbutter.Mostcommonlycalled‘brownbutter’inEnglish.
blanch(blanchir)Literallytranslatedas‘whitening’,thisreferstoaprocesswherefoodisbrieflycookedinboilingwatertodeactivatetheenzymesthatcauseoxidation(enzymaticbrowning).Thefoodisthenplungedintoicedorcoldwatertostopthecookingprocess.
caramelisationAnon-enzymaticbrowningprocessthatoccurswhensucrose(sugar)isexposedtoextremeheat.
colloidAsubstancemadeofmicroscopicparticlesthataresuspendedinaliquid(orsolid),alteringitstexture.
corpsMeans‘body’;referstotheelasticityofadough.Themorecorpsadoughhas,thetougheritwillbetorolloutorshape.
deglazeToaddaliquidtoremovethecookedbrownedbitsofresiduefromthebottomofapan,ortoahotcaramelorsaucetoliquefyit.
demouldTocarefullyremoveacakeortartfromitsmouldortin.
denaturationAprocessthatcausesproteinstolosetheirstructurebyapplyinganexternalstresssuchasheat,anacid(suchaslemonjuice)oralcohol.
détrempeThedoughforpufforcroissantpastry,priortoaddingthebutterforturning.
directmethodOnemethodofmakingbread,wherethedoughreliesexclusivelyontheadditionofyeastforfermentation.
eggwashAmixtureofeggandsalt(andsometimesmilkorwater)brushedoverpastriespriortobaking,toaddcolourandshine.
emulsionAprocesswherebytwoliquids–usuallyafatandwater–areboundtogethertocreateafoamorcream,addingtextureandreducingtheperceivedeffect(theoverallsensation)ofthefat.
enzymaticbrowningseeoxidation
feuilletéAgeneraltypeofpastry,savouryorsweet,madewithpuffpastry.
fraiser/fraisageAmethodofusingyourfingertipsandtheheelofyourhandtoincorporateeggsandbutterintoflour,withoutkneading.Thistechniqueminimisesthelengthofthestrandsofglutenandisusedforshortcrustoranydoughwhereelasticityisundesirable.
ganacheAnemulsifiedcreammadewithchocolateandaliquid.Althoughthemostcommonganachesaremadeusingcream(18–35%fat),ganachescanalsobemadeusingfruitjuices,puréesandevenwater.
knockingdownUsingthepalmofyourhandsoryourfisttopushdown(deflate)ayeasteddough,followingthefirstprove,toremovethecarbondioxide(gas)thathasformed.
laminatingTheincrementalthinningorflatteningofadoughwitharollingpinordoughbreaker(usedcommerciallytorolloutlargequantitiesofdough).
levainAmixtureofflourandaliquidlefttofermentovertime.Levain,the‘starter’,isthebuildingblockofanysourdoughandtheonlyleavening(rising)agentusedduringtheprovingprocess.
liningTheprocessofapplyingathinlayerofdoughtoacaketinortarttin.
longdoughAdough,suchasthatusedforviennoiserieorbreads,wherethestrandsofglutenhavebeenlengthenedduringthemixingorkneadingprocess,whichincreasestheelasticityofthedoughnecessarytotrapthegasesreleasedduringtheprovingandbakingstage,aprocessessentialtothedevelopmentofanyyeasteddough.
MaillardreactionAnon-enzymaticbrowningprocessthatoccursbetweenaminoacidsandreducingsugarswhenexposedtoheat,producingadesirableflavourandcolour.ExamplesofMaillardreactionbrowningarebreadcrusts,searedmeatorfishandroastedcoffeebeans.
masse/masserAprocessbywhichsucrosecrystalliseswithinasyrup.
non-enzymaticbrowningseeMaillardreaction;caramelisation
oxidationAbiochemicalprocesswherebyenzymesbrownwhenexposedtooxygen;alsocalledenzymaticbrowning.
pasteurisationAprocess,particularlyappliedtomilksandcreams,whereingredientsareheatedfrom72°C–88°C(162°F–190°F)—dependingonthefatcontentanduseoftheproduct—tokillharmfulgerms,andthencooledrapidlyto4°C(39°F).
pâtisserieAtypeofsweetconcoctionandtheshopthatsellsthem.
pâtissier/pâtissièreAprofessionalbaker(male/female).
pâtonAblockofdoughthathasbeenfoldedaroundtheblockofbutter.
pectinAsubstance(seecolloid)primarilyusedasagellingagentandpreservativeinjamsthatoccursnaturallyinmanyfruits(especiallyintheskinandseeds).
pointageThefirststageofprovingofanyyeasteddough.
poolishApre-ferment,or‘starter’,madeofequalpartswaterandflourwiththeadditionofasmallamountofyeast.Breadsandfougassesmadewithpoolishwillhaveastrongflavourduetothebuild-upoflacticacidinthepoolish,andwillalsohaveabuttery,lightcrumbandacrispcrust.
provingThedevelopmentofadoughundertheactionofyeast,poolishorlevain;theprocessofallowingthebreaddoughtorise.
rouxAthickeningagent,usedofteninsauces,madebycookingtogetherflourandafat(usuallybutter).
sablageTomixbutterandflourtogetherbeforeaddingtheliquidsinthepreparationofcertaintypesofshortcrustpastry.
shortdoughAdough,suchaspâtesabléeandmostshortcrustpastry,wherethestrandsofglutenarenotlengthenedduringthemixingprocess.Shortdoughsarecrumblyandcanbedifficulttohandle.
viennoiserieAtypeofleavenedpastry.Examplesofviennoiseriesarecroissants,briocheandroulades.
Frenchrecipelist
allumettesglacées
Ardéchoisàlacrèmedemarronsetganacheaucaramelsalé
batonsgruyère-parmesan
beignetsàlacannelle
biscuitsauchocolat,auxamandesetauxpistaches
biscuitssecs
brioche
briocheausucreetauxécorcesd’oranges
bugnes
chaussonàl’abricotsafranéetauyaourt
chouquettes
chouxbeurredecacahouète-chocolataulait
clafoutisauxcerises
compoted’abricotsàlaverveinecitronnelle
compotedepoiresàl’orgeat
compotedepommesetderhubarbe
compotes
confitured’ananaspoivrée
confituredefraisesàlamentheetaucitronvert
confituredeframboisesàlanoixdecoco
confituredelait
confituredemelonàlacannelleetaucitronconfit
confitures
congolaisàl’orgeat
conversationauxorangesépicées
crèmed’amandes
crèmepâtissière
crèmes
croissants
croissantsauxamandes
croquantsauxamandes
diplomate
douillonsdepommesauCalvadosetgoussedevanille
éclairsàlafraiseetàlamandarine
feuilletésricotta-figue
financiersauxframboisesetàlanoixdecoco
florentines
fondantauchocolatetauxnoix
fougasseausucre
fougasseauxherbes,àlapommedeterreetauxolivenoires
fougasseauxolives
fourrésauxpêchesetaucitron
gâteauàl’huiled’olive,aucitronconfitetàlalavande
gâteauaufromage,saucemandarine-chocolat
gâteaubasque
gâteaumarocain
gâteauxderizaucarameletàlafleurd’oranger
gâteauxetdesserts
gnocchiaupistouatauxpalourdes
gougèresbéchamelgruyère
macaronsdeNancy
madeleines
michetraditionnelleauxnoixetauxraisins
muffinscaramel-banane
navettesàl’eaudefleurd’oranger
pain
painaulevain
paindecampagne
paindemieauyaourt
painméthodedirecte
painperdu
painsurpoolish
painsauchocolatetauxnoisettes
painsauxraisins
palmiersauxnoisettes
pastislandais
pâteàbrioche
pâteàchoux
pâteàcroissant
pâteàtartinerchoco-noisette
pâtebrisée
pâtedecaramelaubeurresalé
pâtefeuilletée
pâtesablée
pâtesucrée
pâtesàtartiner
petsdenonnecitronnésàl’anis
pissaladière
pithiviers
pizzaMargherita
pizzasbanane-chocolat
pompeàl’huiled’oliveetàlafleurd’oranger
quatre-quartsàlapoireetauxdates
quichelorraine
rouladesàlatapenadeetauhaloumi
rouladespistache-framboise
sablésàlaconfiture
souffléàlaChartreuseetcoulisdefraisespoivrées
tarteàlapistache,auxfiguesetàl’eauderose
tarteamandineauxpoiresetàlaWilliamine
tarteaufromagedeBanon
tarteaujamboncruetauroquefort
tarteaupotironetauxlardons
tarteauxblettesetauxraisins
tartebanane-réglisse
tarteganacheauxframboisesfraiches
tartegratinée
tartemeringuéeaucitronetaubasilic
tartericotta-orangeauchocolatetaupastis
tartetatinàlarhubarbe
tartescrèmebrûléeàlalavande
tartesettourtes
tourteauboeufbourguignon
tourtespouletpoireauxetlaurier
tuilesauxamandes
tuilesdentelleàl’orangeetàlacannelle
Index
almondsalmondandpearcreamtartwithpearliqueuralmondandspicedorangetartalmond,chocolateandpistachiobiscuitsalmondcreamalmondcroissantsalmondcustardBasquecakealmondtuilesbiscottiflorentinesflourlessMoroccanalmondandorangecakefrangipanepieamarettianchovyandonionfocacciaaniseandlemonnun’spuffsapplesappleandrhubarbcompotebakedapplesinpastrywithCalvadosandvanillabeanupside-downappleandrhubarbtartapricotsapricotandlemonverbenacompoteapricot,saffronandyoghurtpockets
bacon,inquichelorrainebain-mariesbakingpowderbakingtoolsbananasbananaandcaramelmuffinsbananaandchocolatepizzasbananaandliquoricetartbasilbasilandlemonmeringuetartbasil,tomatoandgoat’scheesetartBasquecakebeefburgundypiebicarbonateofsodabiscotti,almondbiscuitsalmondbiscottialmondtuiles
chocolate,almondandpistachioflorentinesFrenchvanillacrostoliNancymacaronsorangeandcinnamonlacetuilesorangeblossomnavettesblindbakingbluecheeseandprosciuttotartbreadandbutterpuddingbreadknivesbreadsapricot,saffronandyoghurtpocketscountrybreaddirectmethodofmakingfullsourdoughmethodofmakingMargheritapizzaoliveoilandorangeblossomsweetbreadonionandanchovyfocacciapotato,blackoliveandherbfougasseProvençalolivebreadsemi-sourdoughmethodofmakingsugarfougassewalnutandraisinloafyoghurtbreadbriochescandiedorangepeelandpearlsugarbriochechocolateandbananapizzascinnamondoughnutsFrenchpanettoneFrenchtoasthowtomakethedoughsnailsbrownsugar‘burningtheeggs’butterbutterbriochebutterfudgecake,chocolateandwalnutbuttermilk
caketinscakesanddessertsbananaandcaramelmuffinsbreadandbutterpuddingcaramelandorangeblossomricecakesChartreusesouffléwithpepperedstrawberrycoulis
chestnutcakewithsaltedcaramelganachechocolateandwalnutbutterfudgecakechocolate-mandarinsaucewithbakedcheesecakedateandpearpoundcakesflourlessMoroccanorangeandalmondcakemadeleinesoliveoilcakewithcandiedlemonsandlavenderraspberryandcoconutfriandsCalvadosandvanillabeanwithbakedapplesinpastrycandiedorangepeelandpearlsugarbriochecaramelcaramelandbananamuffinscaramelandorangeblossomricecakessaltedcaramelganachewithchestnutcakecastersugarChartreusesouffléwithpepperedstrawberrycoulischeesebakedcheesecakewithmandarin-chocolatesaucebluecheeseandprosciuttotartcheesesticksgoat’scheese,tomatoandbasiltartgruyèrebéchamel-filledpuffshaloumiswirlsandolivetapenadericottaandfigpastriesricotta,orange,chocolateandpastistartsilverbeetandraisintartcheesecake,baked,withmandarin-chocolatesaucechef’sknivescherriescherryclafoutisflorentineschestnutcakewithsaltedcaramelganachechicken,leekandlaurelpieschocolatechocolate,almondandpistachiobiscuitschocolateandbananapizzaschocolateandhazelnutcroissantschocolateandhazelnutspreadchocolateandwalnutbutterfudgecakechocolateganachetartwithfreshraspberrieschocolate-mandarinsaucewithbakedcheesecakechocolate,ricotta,orangeandpastistartflorentinesmanufacturingprocess
milkchocolateandpeanutbutterpuffstypesofbeantypesofchocolateusingabain-mariechouxpastryaniseandlemonnun’spuffsclamandpestognocchigruyèrebéchamel-filledpuffshowtomakepeanutbutterandmilkchocolatepuffspearlsugarpuffsstrawberryandmandarinéclairscinnamoncinnamonandorangelacetuilescinnamondoughnutscinnamon,rockmelonandconfitlemonjamclamandpestognocchicocoabeanscocoapowdercoconutscoconutandraspberryfriandscoconutandraspberryjammacaroonswithorgeatsyrupcompotesappleandrhubarbapricotandlemonverbenapearandorgeatsyrupconfectioners’sugarconvectionovenscookingsaltscornstarchcountrybreadcreamcreamandpotatotartcreamoftartarcreamsalmondcreamcustardcrèmebrûléetartsCriollococoabeanscroissantsalmondcroissantschocolateandhazelnutcroissantshowtomakethecroissants
howtomakethedoughpeachandlemonpastriespistachioandraspberryswirlscrostoli,FrenchvanillaculturedbuttercustardcustardalmondBasquecakemilkcustard
darkchocolatedateandpearpoundcakesdemerarasugardessertsseecakesanddessertsdextrosedirectmethod,ofbread-makingdoublecreamdoughnuts,cinnamonDutchcocoa
éclairs,strawberryandmandarineggwasheggselectricmixersequipment,forbaking
fan-forcedovensfermentationfigsfigandricottapastriesfigandrosepistachiotartfinesaltfinishingsaltsflakypuffpastryfleurdeselflorentinesflourflourlessMoroccanorangeandalmondcakefocaccia,onionandanchovyfoodprocessorsForasterococoabeansfougassespotato,blackoliveandherbfougasseProvençalolivebreadsugarfougassefrangipanepie
FrenchgastronomyFrenchpanettoneFrenchtoastFrenchvanillacrostolifriands,raspberryandcoconutfructosefulllevainmethod,ofbread-making
glucoseglutengnocchi,clamandpestogoat’scheese,tomatoandbasiltartgruyèrecheesesticksgruyèrebéchamel-filledpuffs
hailsugarhaloumiswirlsandolivetapenadehambluecheeseandprosciuttotartsilverbeetandraisintarthazelnutshazelnutandchocolatecroissantshazelnutandchocolatespreadhazelnutpalmiersheavycreamherb,potatoandblackolivefougasseheterolacticfermentation
icedpuffpastryfingersicingsugarimmersionblendersingredientsweighingofinstantdryyeastinvertedpuffpastryjamshortbreadsjamsmilkjampepperedpineappleraspberryandcoconutrockmelon,cinnamonandconfitlemonstrawberry,mintandlimeseealsospreads
kitchenscales
knives
laurel,chickenandleekpieslavenderlavenderandcandiedlemonswitholiveoilcakelavendercrèmebrûléetartsleaveningagentsleek,chickenandlaurelpieslemonverbenaandapricotcompotelemonscandiedlemonsandlavenderwitholiveoilcakeconfitlemon,rockmelonandcinnamonjamlemonandanisenun’spuffslemonandbasilmeringuetartlemonandpeachpastrieslevain(starter)levaincheflightcreamlime,mintandstrawberryjamliquoriceandbananatartloaftins
macaronsmacaroons,coconut,withorgeatsyrupmadeleinesmaizecornflourmaizeflourmaizestarchmaizenamandarinsmandarinandstrawberryéclairsmandarin-chocolatesaucewithbakedcheesecakeMargheritapizzameringuelemonandbasilmeringuetartmilkchocolatemilkjammint,strawberryandlimejamMoroccanorangeandalmondcake,flourlessmuffins,bananaandcaramel
Nancymacaronsnavettesnibbedsugarnun’spuffs,lemonandanise
olivesblackolive,potatoandherbfougasseoliveoilandorangeblossomsweetbreadoliveoilcakewithcandiedlemonsandlavenderolivetapenadeandhaloumiswirlsProvençalolivebreadonionandanchovyfocacciaorangescandiedorangepeelandpearlsugarbriocheflorentinesflourlessMoroccanorangeandalmondcakeorangeandcinnamonlacetuilesorangeblossomandcaramelricecakesorangeblossomandoliveoilsweetbreadorangeblossomnavettesorange,ricotta,chocolateandpastistartspicedorangeandalmondtartorgeatsyrupcoconutmacaroonswithpearcompotewithovens
palmiers,hazelnutpanettone,Frenchparingknivesparmesanandgruyèrecheesestickspasta,clamandpestognocchipastis,chocolate,ricottaandorangetartpastriesbasicingredientsblindbakingessentialtoolsformakingliningthetinsrollingthepastrysavouryshortcrustpastryshortbreadpastrysweetshortcrustpastryseealsochouxpastry;puffpastrypeachandlemonpastriespeanutbutterandmilkchocolatepuffspearlsugarpearlsugarandcandiedorangepeelbriochepearlsugarpuffspearspearandalmondcreamtartwithpearliqueur
pearanddatepoundcakespearandorgeatsyrupcompotepectinpepperedpineapplejampestoandclamgnocchipiesseetartsandpiespineapplejampipingbagsandnozzlespistachiospistachioandraspberryswirlspistachio,chocolateandalmondbiscuitspistachio,figandrosetartpizzaschocolateandbananaMargheritapoolishmethod,ofbread-makingpotatoespotatoandcreamtartpotato,blackoliveandherbfougassepoundcakes,dateandpearpouringcreamprosciuttoandbluecheesetartProvençalolivebreadprovingtimes,forbreaddoughpuffpastrybakedapplesinpastrywithCalvadosandvanillabeancheesesticksfrangipanepiefreezingofgoat’scheese,tomatoandbasiltarthazelnutpalmiershowtomakeicedpuffpastryfingersmethodsofmakingolivetapenadeandhaloumiswirlspotatoandcreamtartricottaandfigpastriesspeckandpumpkintartpuffsseechouxpastrypumpkinandspecktartpureicingsugar
quichelorraine
raisins
raisinandsilverbeettartraisinandwalnutloafsnailsraspberrieswithchocolateganachetartraspberryandcoconutfriandsraspberryandcoconutjamraspberryandpistachioswirlsrawsugarrefractoryovensrhubarbrhubarbandapplecompoteupside-downappleandrhubarbtartricecakes,caramelandorangeblossomricottaricottaandfigpastriesricotta,orange,chocolateandpastistartringmouldsrocksaltrockmelon,cinnamonandconfitlemonjamrose,figandpistachiotartroughpuffpastryroulades
saffron,apricotandyoghurtpocketssaltsaltflakessaltedcaramelsaltedcaramelganachewithchestnutcakesaltedcaramelspreadsavouryshortcrustpastryhowtomakescalesseasaltserratedknivesshortbread,jamshortbreadpastry,howtomakeshortcrustpastrysavourysweetsiliconematssilverbeetandraisintartsinglecreamsouffléwithpepperedstrawberrycoulis
sourdoughbreadflourformethodformakingspatulasspecksilverbeetandraisintartspeckandpumpkintartspreadshazelnutandchocolatemilkjamsaltedcaramelseealsojamsstaticovenssteelspatulasstickblendersstrawberriesChartreusesouffléwithpepperedstrawberrycoulisjamshortbreadsstrawberryandmandarinéclairsstrawberry,mintandlimejamsugarsugarbriochesugarfougassesweetshortcrustpastry,howtomake
tartringstartsandpiesalmondandspicedorangetartalmondcustardBasquecakebeefburgundypiebluecheeseandprosciuttotartcherryclafoutischicken,leekandlaurelpieschocolateganachetartwithfreshraspberriesfigandrosepistachiotartgoat’scheese,tomatoandbasiltartlavendercrèmebrûléetartslemonandbasilmeringuetartliquoriceandbananatartpearandalmondcreamtartwithpearliqueurpotatoandcreamtartricotta,orange,chocolateandpastistartsilverbeetandraisintartspeckandpumpkintart
upside-downappleandrhubarbtartseealsopastriesthermometersthickcreamtinstomato,goat’scheeseandbasiltarttools,forbakingTrinitariococoabeanstuilesalmondorangeandcinnamonupside-downappleandrhubarbtart
vanillaFrenchvanillacrostolivanillabeanandCalvadoswithbakedapplesinpastry
walnutswalnutandchocolatebutterfudgecakewalnutandraisinloafwheatencornflourwhippingcreamwhitechocolate‘windowpane’test
yeastyoghurtyoghurt,apricotandsaffronpocketsyoghurtbread
zest,fordecoration
Acknowledgments
LMymosthumblethankyoutomyfirstchef,RobertSchicchi,fornotonlyteachingmetheskillsbut,moreimportantly,foropeningmyeyestoanalmostnever-endingworldoflearninganddiscovery.
LMyabsolutethankstoJuliaTaylorforyourhelpduringthoselongnightsofbaking,andforyourunwaveringsupport.
LMaximumrespectandthankstomygreatteamofpastrychefsatLaRenaissancePâtisserieandBaroqueBistro,pastandpresent,yourock!
LAverybigthankyoutotheCharkosfamilyforallyoursupport.
LParisCutler,thankyousomuchformakingitallpossibletobeginwith.
LAnd,ofcourse,alltheamazinglypatient,talentedandsupportivepeopleatMurdochBooks:DianaHillandSueHinesforactuallyentrustingmewiththisbookfromthestart…mercibeaucoup.
LTheteamofeditors:BarbaraMcClenahan,KimRowneyandChristineOsmond—Iliterallyhavenoideahowyouputupwithmeandmyconvolutedmanuscript,thankyou.
LVivienValk,whatcanIsay,yourdesignmakesmelookalotbetterthanIam…thebookisjustbeautiful.
LSteveBrown,foryourincrediblepictures,strongcoffeesandfinetunes,andJaneHann,whocan,quiteliterally,makeanythinglookstunning.
Publishedin2015byMurdochBooks,animprintofAllen&Unwin
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Publisher:DianaHillEditorialManager:BarbaraMcClenahanDesigner:VivienValkProjectEditor:KimRowneyPhotographer:SteveBrownStylist:JaneHannFoodEditor:ChristineOsmondProductionManager:MaryBjelobrk
Text©JeanMichelRaynaud2015Themoralrightsoftheauthorhavebeenasserted.Design©MurdochBooks2015Photography©SteveBrown2015
Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedinaretrievalsystemortransmittedinanyformorbyanymeans,electronic,mechanical,photocopying,recordingorotherwise,withoutthepriorwrittenpermissionofthepublisher.
Acataloguing-in-publicationentryisavailablefromthecatalogueoftheNationalLibraryofAustraliaatnla.gov.au.
ISBN9781925267082(ebook)
AcataloguerecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary.
ColourreproductionbySplittingImageColourStudioPtyLtd,Clayton,Victoria
IMPORTANT:Thosewhomightbeatriskfromtheeffectsofsalmonellapoisoning(theelderly,pregnantwomen,youngchildrenandthosesufferingfromimmunedeficiencydiseases)shouldconsulttheirdoctorwithanyconcernsabouteatingraweggs.
OVENGUIDE:Youmayfindcookingtimesvarydependingontheovenyouareusing.Forfan-forcedovens,asageneralrule,settheoventemperatureto20°C(35°F)lowerthanindicatedintherecipe.
MEASURESGUIDE:Wehaveused20ml(4teaspoon)tablespoonmeasures.Ifyouareusinga15ml(3teaspoon)tablespoonaddanextrateaspoonoftheingredientforeachtablespoonspecified.
LFromFrench-bornmasterpâtissierJeanMichelRaynaudcomesaninspirationalandachievableguidetodeliciousFrench-stylebakingforthehomekitchen.
TheFrenchBakerfeatures95tantalisingsweetandsavouryrecipes—forbiscuits,cakes,tarts,pies,pastries,croissants,breads,jamsandspreads—allsupportedbyexperthintsandcookingtips.Photographicstep-by-stepsectionsprovidevisual
referenceformakingshortcrust,chouxandpuffpastry,aswellasbrioches,breadsandcroissants.
JeanMichel’srecollectionsofhistrainingandworkasapâtissierarewoventhroughthisstunningbook,togetherwithfascinatinginsightsintoFrenchtraditionandculture.
JeanMichelRaynaudisheadpâtissierofSydney’sLaRenaissancePâtisserieandBaroqueBistro.BorninFrance,hebeganhiscareerunderthetutelageofmasterpâtissierRobertSchicchiinMarseilles,andwasaheadpastrychefbytheageof20.JeanMichelhasappearedontelevision,writtenformagazinesandcontributedrecipestoseveralbooks.