4

VOYAGEOF

THE FORLORN HOPE,AI~D

NOTES ON WESTERN AUSTRALIA.

Tim following narrative,i~romthepenof Mr.J.P. Stow, will amply repay perusal,constitu-ting (as it does)asimple andtruthful report ofone of the most daring and perilous boatvoyagesever undertaken;andcomprisingalsoaconsiderableamountof information relativetoapartof thoAustralian coast-linehitherto bubimperfectlyknown; Mr. J~.P. Stow was not amemberof either of the GovernmentExpedi-tions to Adam Bay, but went out on his ownresourcesto inspect the country,and also as~gentfor anumberof purchasersof landin theNorthern Territory. Whilst thus engagedhelikewise officiated as Special CorrespondentoftheSo~hAu.cfrajjanAs~verjiserandChronicle,in the columnsof which papershave appearedthe fulleab reportsthat haveyet been madepublic with referenceto the affairsof the infantsettlement. It is not thepurposeof this briefintroductionto canvassthe meritsof Mr. Stow’spresentreport, but rather to introduceto thepublic both the narrativeandita author,leavingthereaderto drawhis own conclusions. It is,however, necessaryto state that thefollowingpages are a sequelto other letterswritten byMr. Stowto thejournalsabovenamed,in whichhe details what in his judgment constitutetheprincipalcausesof failure•of the NorthernTerritory Expedition. That Mr. Stow isperfectlysincerein hisrepresentationsis demon-

stratedby thefact of his having undertakensodesperatea voyage as that of the “ForlornHope;“ especially consideringthat (apartfromthefailure of the attemptedsettlement)he hadevery reason for remaining in the newcountry, and no reasonwhateverfor returningbefore accomplishingthe objectof hismission.But, as already stated, the purpose of thesesentences19 nottovindicateMr. Stow’s opinions,norto pronouncejudgment upon the policy oftheGovernmentitesidentat AdamBay. To dojustice to this subjectwould require a volume.It is, however, certainthat the extraordinaryinteresttakenin thedaringvoyageof Mr. Stowand his companionsmore thanjustifies there-publication of that gentleman’sreport to the.4dvertiaer and Chronicle. The story of thevoyageis simply told; nothing is inserted formere effect; no adventitious aids are broughtto bearuponthesubject,butonthe contrary itis surprisinghow so remarkableavoyagecouldbe describedwith so little egotismandin suchfew words. That Mr. Stowmight easilyhavemademuchmoreof theincidentsof his romanticjourney,everyonewill perceive,andit is to behopedthathis moderationasthehistorianof anadventurein which he was a principal actorwill not detract from the interest which thepublic would have felt in the perusalof thestory hadit beenwritten in morevivid terms.

/

BY J. P. STOW, ESQ., J.P.

INTRODUCTORY.

VOYAGE OF THE FORLORN HOPE.

My last letter closed on the 5thof May, and I fear ItsCOOtCOtS wereanythingbut cheeringto those interestedInthe NorthernTerritory. S am ablenow to give you newstothemorningot the ILk of May, and accountsof the pro-ceedingsof theparty,of whomI wasone, that sailedfromAdam Bay Ito the Forlorn Mope. On the departureof theBengal,about50 personswere left in the settlement. Oftlie~e,four or five professedto admire the polity of theGovernmentilesident; afew more expresseda determina.tion to remainIn theNorthernTerrttory ac longus theycould~et theirexcellentpay,and about40 were intendingto leaveby thefirst opportunIty. ft waswelt known that the timeelepsingbeforetoo nextadvicesfrom Adelaide would bewasted,and up to the lust momentof our leavingtheset-tlement tlto Resident’,folly, obstinacy,and disobedienceofinstruction, wereas conspicuousasever, ‘rho untvereaidepreselonoccasionedby thedisappointedhopesand drearypi-oopectsorthe tettlersCud membersof theexpeditionwasrelievedby this excitementof the two dayson which theForlorn Hopeleft the Cflfi~and the Narrows. The mainobject of mostof the membersof the crew of thus littlecraft was,of course,to returnto Adelaide; but ~eyeral,in-cludingyourcorrespondent,wishedto visit different partsof thecoastof ourown Territory. &LLer thi, was effected,we wereto proceedto Camden Ifarbor, ant if a vesselwasthereboundfor theSwan, Malbonrns, orAdelaide, to saltby her If not, to continue coasting till we tell in with avee~e1,orreachedFremantle,when tue voyageof our boatwe,to end Wethought we shouldfind numerousplacesof shelterabouttheCoastand amongthelelande,andfound,to ourcost,how little we knew of the characterof bothIt was suppoeed by most people that we ehouldarrive in adelaide before the passengers by theBengal, and had our object been simply to returnwe shouldharemet the July mali at the Sound, butourexamination of the coast occupied some lime, to thelossof fitirwinda. A few, and among them sailors, prog-nosticateda fatal i~susto our voyage ; but the unutter-abledisgustwith which we contemplatedthe prospect ofmonthsof forcedI iactlvhty. ileterminaclus to veuturs. Wepurchasedtheboat on the 4th from the Bengal,endbroughtheron shore. Shewas23t feet in length,6 feet acrossthebeam,and two feet deep. SluG hadtwo roastS and sprht.eatle,to which weaddeda jib. On the 5th we had wa,h-boardsaddedto her,and a little deokiogand tarpaulin onthe howe and Stern, thus guarding as tar as possibleagainst shipping water. anil at the same time makinglockers for ourprovisions. Onthe 0th, at er tIle departuroof the Bengalwe gotour loggoge and provisione on board.Wehad aeu lbs of breadand biscuit, seinecheese, 20 6-lbtineof beet,a few medical comforts, somecakes,about 7ogallons of water,and eonie llr~wo~d,Wecarriedas littleluggageasposeible.andit chestwith photographieappara.lus belongingto iieesr,.Hamiltonand flake.

In thecourseof theafternoonall preparationswere cornpleted,and thepeopleof Adam hay collectedto bidusfare-well. Weinst in theGovernmentbakehouss,when varioustoaste were proposed, including “A Sore and SuccessfulTrip,” “Our next Meeting.” “The GreatWork 01 Explo-ration” was received and respondedto with considerablemerriment. Abut 18 oiltcersand men were accompanyingtheir comradesfor eunsodistanceIn thea Bengal—every oneremainingIn camp,except (ho lte~identanti two or threeother,, accompaniedue to the shore. Wewalked alongthecliffs to the landing-place of the Bengal. Mere was theboatclosein shore,and tide nearlyat the full. We pro.ceedeito unfurl our flag, every one ehowbngthe mostbreathlce,interestin the ceremony. No one knew whatetandard we Intended to hoist—whether it would bethe red rag of rebellion, or “ the flag that braveda thousand years—whether it would exhibit ~lniplythe name of our veesel, or an anathema uponthe governmentof t’almereton. Whenit wayunfolded,andthefreemenof Alexandraread the motto, now becomehis-~orlciui“Firti.c coronaS optic,” their feehiuge found vent in awild and instantaneousburst of applause. Cheeraltercheerrent theair, resoundedfrom rock andwood, wasborneU~0fl tile breeze,andechoed alongthe shore. When, leninpare exhaustion, the display of enthusiasmhiatt a littlecubatcd,a few enquiringmindssoughtfor an explanation~f

themotto. Various repliesweregivento enqoirhes,themeshcomniontehugof a very generalkind, as “Oh;, eometiiitgabout trlnnies.” Onegentlennmnof whoseattainmentsasaLatieiist I had previously been unaware, informed tti~~~assembledthat tile English of the sentencewas “Finalescorroboree,to his opponents“ More toasts,expressedInnervous Engllsh,werethen proposedand drank,anti we tooka heartyfarewellof our friends. Theboat, with oil canvaseet and colorsflying, salted slowly away, amidst vociferou,cheering; the free translator,exhaustedby ills emotions,sunk upon the sand,and feebly waving tils hand, cried“ilooray,” Willie a jolly tar rushedalongthis beachscream-ing nauticaladvice,woiohheaccompaniedwith tho wildestgesticulationsand the mostextravagaotcontortions of limband feature. Gently we onovedaway; the cheeringsub-sided;the hatswerereplacedupontheirrespectivecranium,;tile Clitlite,, including the jelly tarand the free translator,wendedtheiv way up thee banks, cand we steeredfor thismouthof theriver,feelingthat we had takenleaveofEscapeCuffsandour fellow-sufferers.It becamedark beforewe hintproceededfar up theAdelaide,and the tide was againstus.Wewereobliged to pull up under(hoe banks,andland aboutthree-quartersof a lotte from the camp of the surveypartiesengagelOnlaying out Southt’almerston. We wereexpected,buttt beingnearly10 p.m., all handslied gone totheirrest,and our first cooeynot beingaoswered,those ofourpartywho possessedpleasingvoIces treatedthem to imi-tationsofthemelodiesof manyanimala,wild and domestIc,besidesvarIousunearthlyyells andcries,till at lastthey weremadeawarethatsomebodywas coining, and reepondedInanappropriatemanner. Itty thetime we reachedthis campall werearoused,and we Spentseveralhuore discussingtheaffairsof the settlement. Thoseremaining looked forwardwithloathingto themouthsthatmustpassawaybeforetheycould be relieved from the reIgn of idiocy. Somewouldgleictly hiavejoinedushiattwe roomfor (hens.NearlyallahthIscampintendedleavingby Octoberat latest, ehonid oppor-tunity offer. At to am. on (lie ‘rthi wewent on board,and Imay as welt give here the paseenger-liet —3. 1’. Stow,Arthur hamilton, and \Vui. hIoht(nn ducveyors), JohnWhite and JametDavis (eeamncn),and Citas. Hake, andFrancis Edward,. men of the survey parties. Messrs.Ilanoillon and Mcflinn wereto determineour course,andJohnWhite.en experiercedboatman,wine had teen in thepilot eetviceIn Victoria, anti was well-known at t’ortAdelaIde, wasto havethemanagementofthoeboat. FranciSI~aviswasalso anableseaman. We had mapsfront Mtl-buurne,traoingsfromthechartsoftheCaptainoftheBengal,two eextants,and several pocketcompasses. We tookheave of our feliow.vietimna on the bunks of the Adelaide,aiid on pushIng off were encouragedon our way bygreatanti oontlnued cheering,whhio parting volleys werefired from carbinesand revolvers. Someof the camp,including 0. McMlnn, C. hulls, W. Stow, and ottiers,accompaniedusfor somedistancein a dingy, They hoisteda blanketfor a sail, but notbeing ableto steervery close hothewind, we took them in tow, and ~ai1eddown the riveragainstthe tide, through this mouth, and for some mlic5toward,l’oint Charles,acrossthis Bay, leavingthe Beatriceand theCliffs far to theright. Soonweapproachedtheopensea,and it wasnecessaryfor the dingy to return. What apartIng that was on this waters of Adam Bey betweenfriendsandbrothersI —someembarkedon anadventurefullof novelty, end not destituteof peril; others doomedtomonthsof wearInesssad monotony, After the shakingofhands,theinterchangeof good wishes,and the hoistingoftheblanket-sail,the two crews,with theirmud-soiledgee-inente,hongbeards,and facesflushedwith emotion,chiseringand wavingtheir hat,,formed a scenethatmust be foreverphotographedupon the memory. iloit’, as the boatSincreasedthedistancebe

5weenthem,thoseBritish hiurruh~

Soundedacrossthe wateri—and asa last form of farewell,revolverswerefired, anC we felt that we had cononicncedcuevoyage,and heft Adamflay with its horrors antI atone-dutIes,the bihteurecollectionsand pleasantremlntscenoes,itsetrtfeeand lrlendships,behindus.

We passed-the Vernon Islandsearly In the afternoon,taking tile inner channel,and going ‘over ~hoaIe. (hootwindy most of the day. After sundown weatherhookedthereatening,anti we had a eliff breeze;but about seven

VOYAG1~OF PilE FORLORN hOPE. 3p.m. thio weather clemired, anti the wInd abated. We hadph asantbreezesmostof the night. how beautiful whiemithis moon rose, and spreadita surety light upon thin cairnwater. We became deliciously eentimenhai, l’he ever-lastingoceancould never really becomesmonotonous;onecould never tire of gazing upon Its broad expenseandwatchingit in its variousmoods. Wakingand sleeping, indreamsand reverie,thefirst night passedaway,

At daylIghton thin5th;sawthe mainland,anti during tueday sailed over a reef markedon ourchart,anti passedtheentranceof i’ort Paterson,coast lute auth dreary. Nativefires all along the coaat. At about5 p.m. Were stoipelby hreefs, and turned to the west, when we wereagainstoppedand anchored. At I am. onthe 0th, at low water,found ourselvessurroundedby reefs,and were thunkfuh forourescapefront shipwreck. At high; waterthe reefs wereall out of sIght, and we sailed pleasantlyenoughfor threeorfour hours,when thin wind shouted,and we went to sea-ward till the seabecameso rough that we tacked to theeastand ran In shore, anchoringabout 11 sun.,two milesfrom a sandybeach;, free from breakers. Ileavy rain andwind. hlemalnedat anchor (lii the unernhngof thie 10th;.We load a rough seaand hIgh wind with a good dealofrain. Weweresaturatedwith rein andspray,andsomeofourbreadwasinjured. An uneonfortablemiigh;t,but all slepta gooddeal—somesoundly. At 7.30 steeredfor this imiaimu.land. At 3.30 Caps Blaze boreSW., disiant abouteightmile,,and ailnerangeof lulls —I shouldsay40 miles distantS.E. half Oh. Sailing very near this coast. Plenty of lishi,and amongtherri kangaroolIsh, so nailed from this fart thatthey leapalongthesurfaceofthe wateron theirtall,. heardsnipe anti ploveron shore; eandiliesvisited us from theland. Ate p.m. sightedthe peakofPeron Island. This cciibecame rough, and not knowing the passageinto AnsonBay, whineswe intendedto call, we madefor theshore,andanchoredat 10p.m., about two mIles from this hand, in sixfa hioins water. DurIng this night the wind was cold amidviolent, with a rough sea. Our anchor being light, wedrifted eightorten miles to thin N.IV’. At eunrise,on the11th,we were out of sIght of Peron Island, hut we soonsightedit. This peak oh the island fIrst becomesvisible,appearinglike a solitary rock, but soon this rest of thisIsland show, Itself, and afterwards the smaller bland.\Viuds lighit and variable,sometimesdyingawayaltogether,‘l’hiero beinga deathcalm,anchoredabout 5 p.m. Nuuiierouefires on this Island and along thus coast. heard natives000eying end wild dogshowling.

lath. Weighed anchor at midnight, nnd commencedtacking through the inner channelinto Aueon Bay. At11 am., there being a strong tide against us, amid thiswind dying away, we anchoredIn thires antI a haltfathuomiis. Cliff 11usd in sight SE. by N., antiland just visible to the east. During the afternoon wedrilled slowly in with the tide, havingscarcelya hireaihmofWind to assistus. Hangsof hills, bearingN NIh. from thisCoutbi emil of this smaller l’eron Island, and a roundhIllbearingIh.S.E. ‘l’he wind ceasing,anda strongtIde settingagainstus,we anchoredat 5 p.m. in six fathoms.

13th—Weighedanchorat sundown; foul wind, but tideIn our favor. Anchoredabouttour miles south-westfromCliff head. Deepwater nearshore; six iathoms one-thirdof a mile distant,andthreefathomscloseto tile beach;. Thebottomwasa kind of quicksand,with barnaclesunderneath.Landed with; firearuns, food, 9cc., and enjoyeda good teedanti a pot of tea —thefirst we had bsen ableto indulge insines leaving Adam flay. Timers were a few muaangrovesabout, and a few accacuas,ilk. thosein Victoria. humusof the party, inciuding myself, started foe a walk in-land. We went about five miles westward. Saw a redWallaby, and shot a pheasantand seine plover. Swamps,salt and fresh;,closeto the bean;. Foilowed a salt swampIonio iistaiooe; then finding it difficult walking,turui,-dintotheforest. The soil wasniuch like (lint at Adam Bay, butwith lessironstonepebbles. A greatdealwasa light suemd,ota yellow and somehimesa darkercolor. ‘flue grasshot sotell as at EscapeCliffs, but as worthlessand very rank.Much; of it br ad in theleaf, with; sawedges. This timberagoed deal like that at Adam hay,but of a more uuefuhCharacter, There wereforestsof paper-barktrees amid box;stringybiurk,bastardgum, anda timid of ironbark abeeundec.i.The trees were of eunuli circumference.few exceedingtwofeet. borneran 30 or 40 feet without branches. Tuebeetspecimen, uvere etrimigybarkand bastierd—gum. ‘Ibis timberWasgenerally sound, judging from its appearance,thinabsence of dead branches, and (ho ~mnahl quantityof hollow logs on the ground. So far as wewalked we could see no change in the cha-racterof this country. ~Ve euw a great mauty hiomiey_Suckles. Amotiullis of grret sirs were plentIful, varying Inheight fromu 10 feet to upwardsof 20 feet. We mieticel one17 beet,art ci another22 feet in huehgbut. Somewere up war is01 20 feet ieu circunifem’ema~e. They were of different stylesof au-ehitrcture—ahlcorrugated,the rh.hgeesonuciimiuesee-miicul-at bethu rim is ; someemuhedhum apetit like achurch s;eire, andConiCwerecaslelhitch. ICe-lum’mnng we wee1 N. to sum opeuthmugimu I lie Ii tuber, ant found ecu selvesat tile head of a largefresh swaeiip runmuingtowardstime sea. It was dryluig up—moist to I lie icet, heut without simrface wfthcr. (iii tin’ north;lade paporliueik, slid manysorts or trees on the southside.

lied thoere her-en any of there fine gium-treseMr. lanspeak,oraslikely to forun anSrhlcleot export from AnsomiIley, we ehiumli hoverunt it on himl~eWiuuiup, hutlargeclimewill mint orew In suehua soil astlemt at Aumcou; flay. it i~true we oniy lammed em; cue side oh Chif U each, but all thiscoast,was low ant presentedthis sameappearsmmu’e. ‘furumceifrom tile swamnpinto this timber to theehrtt. foummil tue grasslhrr-aelluhiyrank mind tiumigleil, munch fatiguing to walk lburougtu.ltoachueehthue beach sometime afterdo rlt. Ocr beathad lceeflmoved aecorlingloarmangr-;nentto Cliff lheaeI.and we wereglad to mnake hue firs emil reiresh;ourselveswilbu thin bush-man’s beveragemmI stimulant—tea, Oct despislug Ihiegrosservhanhsot tluunsdIeee silt bread. Night, beauhifuhlycalm, but cold. I was gladof two blanket,,andcouldhavebornea third,

ldih,—hlreakfasbeelon grilled phieasantand plover—goodeating, the forurier delicious. Iletween our campaol limepoint 01 thin ClIffs a creek—deepat hitch water—joinsthesea,and runs SW. jearahlei with thus beech. Souuieof usfollowed It for about threemnile~to hue luciuS, crosseddry—foot, andfound ah,iundamiceof lreshu water in ewamumps. Fol-lowed the mangrovecreek back for some distance,thraturned lulamuci to a large plain two or three muoiles square.Shotsometeal,snIpe,rind jlcverin freshswamnys. l’a;ee—bark all rouusei this plain. Returnedto coaet,crossIngtbmucreekat low water. Freebu water rho’s to It iii elvaumlles.Walkedabouttwo mIles along Cliff head. Foimnil Ihie cliffat mts highestpoimutabeiit 10(0 feet,though it appearsunucislower vieeveei from (lie Bay. It is coriiposeelif red,auuhstone,very much disintegrated,conglomerateirouuelone,anti redearth;aboveall. Theground foes not slope inland, Nearthe edge the trees were smell, young box, anti gumn, iuuidStuntedpalms. One hundred yards hack blue timber washarge,anti much of it stralghit.siemmued all beymiela deii~Siorest. All alongtue baseof Cliff lheaeiIs a smnoeett;sauldybeach,with Scarcely a ptgm; ~f rock, but at hiigtu waler theseatouchestile cliii’s. Wehad a very flume view of h’eronIslandanti thus cay— a fIne o

1ien huarbor. l’hie aIr is clear

amid bracing. ‘l’hiere Is no doubtthuis is a hsealubiyspot. V~’ehuaveseesmoo elguo ol huhgbi land,excepttime ramogeumit-nhlaumedem; thelIlt;~ tbiit is visible from mostpartsof the liiy, andeonoshills bearingS. by B. that we enppose.ito be (lie lIar—thieleiny. Titersarecliffs abeicutsix untIes irounCliff iteadtothinS.W., andmore nearerto CapeFord. All the land aboutAnson Bay he low and worthuiess. There Is no lime orbuildumegstone,and,asfar as we could see, no permamlentsurfacewater. ‘fliers werenumbersof naliveeabout,‘as wecouldtell by thiehriire~,tracks,&e., but noneshowed(bern-selves. Probably they had hieerd of the killing of omoc oftheircolor at ChambersBay, anti the report of ourgunsprsventeIthem from coming near us. lilt-hr wurleys wereof Chic rnlr’st kind, end wo saw mb canoesor raits. lYefoundseemnelargeworn-outba’kets. Emuanti lIngotrackspleubhfah. ‘rook in water, and preheareelto start in thusevening,bitt the title did not reachiIlls boat,whIchload beenbroughtashorefor hue purposeof makInga t’ew additionsmmmd alterations.

15th—Atdawn,cutmangroveleversand rollerS,andafteralittle labor iaunclieIthusbout Wehail lestno tinue,as mmota breath;of air shirrrecithroughthis night. /tswe starhed,aflueSE. breezepetIn and carriedus leastCapeFord by mlam.,amid so euodedour visit to Amuson Bay. A littlo beyondCape Ford the coast looks like that at Walluroo, plioebeloplung baaehu,then grass flits, bohilnd thuat snualibushytimber. After tluls Is passed,wa approach Caps Douuu-boy; tItle Is generally randy soil, with uceiusionally cliffs.We noticedfIres along the coast.

ICtIo.—Lhghut windsmostof le,tnIght. Shortlyalterday—lIght saw thin iharhhielrmy lthhis. Cairnsant light wimielsall dayhill about4.30 pin. Sheeredtier wbiat looked IBis anopeningin the bIght, betweenCopeDomnheeyamid Capehay.0mm n~preacbuing,fecund tIlls appearsmocsof an oleeuiiegwhichwe hiecpedwould proveto be a river, was occasionedby abreakIn this line of busbiesthat grewalongthis coast. This~pot Is It-ft blank In thue Almnheahty chiurts. ‘fliers are rn-clcliffs to ihie ShE., this Betrhheiemny 11111, hearN.E. by E,hIgh handin thedhstance,N. B. and Oh, half N. Aboutdark,we anchuorrtlIn omisamid alieS fathuommoeat ttie sandybeset;.Thoerewee a lerge mangrovecreekcloseto uson our ri~hut.Just beforedark, sawlargeillghuhs ofcockatoos. humbugthismoighut heard birds and hue howl of the titngo on pliers.M osqullestrouteleeenoethus earl

7part of Ills night,but Clue)’

died orbecametorpid mis thus cod increased.17111.—At sunrIse noticed othicr mangrmcve creeksIn the

dIstanceon carl; side of us. Liundatl,walkingibirougti soilmud, amid alberwaribs got this loot on hurl pond.Nuumieroua tracks of’ ucabivee anti lingers tin hits beetc-h;.At Irenkia,l achlnmgo mmmdcusappearance’,emil we tbeaglttof thuteebingit, till it we, euggerttdIhiat ft bc-iongedhe mummualBirs. It mmiude cautiousepproiuchies,now amid thiemi lyingdtwIc. and watchdogus. It bath a cordroumimi its mieck. It

took ion noticeof thin retort of llrearnis. At last it rutiffed1ie~d,end lie aclvnncn’ brcauooevery rapid till we threw itsemmuemeat. Alter tertluig thilce it eel octof a plateamid thou

frccni our hiamitir, amid thu aihy showed its ,hrahihuihe and hhuedclicocy met its liable by eieauiing all oardotesanu cookjigutensils,uimid ncuaoeinednut ton lire all day. At about a.mmm.Mr. ltlcllinmi, Whiite. Davis, amid I startedher the southpointci (berangesouth oh the Barthebemys. We ~tucred

4 VOYAGE OF THE FORLORN HOPE.

east.’atdat startIngcrossedanti roundeda nunabsrof ealtcreeks,aboutwhich werenumeroustracks of natlvea. WesawfishIng weltS acrossthe creeks, with email opealngs,and nearthem mattings or nets with which, we suppose,the natives closed them as they wished. After gettingclearof the creeks and mangrovee we came to a h;artlplain, with grassand rushes; thegrasswhey,butbetterthanwe hadseenon the coastbefore. Much of thus plaIn had bee;;burnt. Beforeus wastherangetrendIngfrom S. to N., orN.~V.,tIme BarthelemnyHillS to ths north of the end of (busrange,and other hills beyondIn this same direction. Wehad a beautllut south-eastbreezeu t’~e day was mild, andaltogetherhike a May day In South Auatralha. We walkedon briskly, elatedwith theideaof soon being on hIgh hills,and havinga vIewof good country. About two miles fromthe seawe camstoefreshswamp,and walking throeghitsooncameto another,and (lien found the swamps con-tinuouS. We walked two miles through water,and thenturned northwardto somedIstant timber, hoping to findtI;ere drylandtiuatwouldleadto theItartluehemny11111,,whencewe hopedwe could travel along the range and return bya different route. When we reached the first chumpof timber we foundIt a mere Island in the midst of theswamo. Oneofthe party dropped into a hole up to hui~sh;ouidersIn mudand water,and was rmpidly disappearIngwhenhuewaspulled out. After thIswe found the water In-variablydeeperwhen we cameto timber, whicho was prin.cipahlypaperbark. Wewadedthroughrushesand reedsorsmall bamboostill omit party began to separate, We thenwent for a considerabledistancethrough tall flags, severalfeet over ourheads,till this waterreacluedto ourwaists, anddeepenedsorapidlythatIn a few stepswe shouldhavebeenreduced-to ‘theneoeesltyofswimming,sowe rehuobunthy re-turned,seeingwater in everydIrection. Logs werefloatingabout,anti leechesabounded, I haveno doubt we were onthe edgesof a lake,andthat thewaterwe walked throughcontraàtsdasthis dry eeasonadvanced. We hada view ofatleastIto squaremile, ofswamp. By degreesour party re-unIted; we hadall beenseverelybittenby a kind of wasp.and ourclothesweretornand hongaboutusIn shreds Onourreturnwe shota numberof smallploverand a swampbird nearlyaslargeasa turkey. Therewasa largekind ofpigeon here, but it was very shy. Roamingin search;of game we saw many camping-groundsof natlve~,and on the beach tracke that had been madeuluring the day. I wished to try and reach Barthie’lsmy hills by a different route on (lie morrow butthe partywouldnotagreeto this, so at 9 p.m. we got thetmatoil and setseth. Theseaon this coast is very phoe-phuorescent—atCapeDombey peculiarly so. e the wavespreadalongtheshoreIt appearedlike a sheetof blueflame.Eachman standingin thewaterwassurroundedb~a haloof light; and whuentheboat moved sheheft in her wakeapathwayot palstire, shooting out myriad, of blue sparks.Wind gentle till midnight, when it freshened up fromthe SE.

letb.—At dnyllght out of 8ight of land, going acrossCambridgeGulf, with a highsea, Roughall day,

i~tb.—Abouttwo hoursbeforedaylIghtsawland. PassedCape Bernier, and sailed along the coast. About CapsLondonderryIt is a fine bold coast—highchIil~ amid some-times ranges of hills coinIng to the water’s edge,withmountainouscountry In (lie background. All on laudhooked dry, and had that desolateappearanceAustralIanuoastgenerallywearsIn the summerseason. I’assedCapeBeugainville,and in the evening,asthis navigationhookeddangerousfromthe numberofislandsand breakers,wetriedto find shelleruniteren islandabout12 miles fromtheCape,but got on a reefwith less than three test of wateron it.As we wereemudeavoningto get clearof this dangera heavbreakercamerolihmmgun.Theboat answeredherhelmbeaut-fully, went head0mm. and rodsbuoyantly over the surf. We.then headreaohedN.E., keepinga watch. Alter standingout for some miles the water suddenly becamesmooth,and we struck on rook. Soon after we saw breakersall aroundand land at no greatdistanoe, Bump, bump,grind, grind, went our poor boat on the rocks; we triedhard to get heroff, but shecontinued to catch on the reef.Our situation wasnow I ritical. We were a dezenmilesfrom the mainland, with no chanceof escapein caseof-si;lpwreck, whmicta seemedinevitable, for the soft wood ofwhichour little vessel wasmadecouldnot long standsuch-severeusage. ~Vebelievedourvoyageof life was abouttoend with thatof the Forlorn Hope,and It seemedthat themottoon our flagwould have a mournful sIgnificance. Atlast we gotclear, amid sailedbncktowardsthe island we hadleft In theevening,and anchoredin two fathoms.

aeth.—A heavyseabroke our rudder thmis morning, andwe anchoredand repairedit. Sailedin various direction,,trying to avoidthe numerousreefsandshoals,till at last weresolvedlogo eastwardtill we got outside theme, and thenetill work round nil thesedangers—makinga detourof so or90 mIles. Thuswind being againstus, we ran dowui to time•astern side of Vansittart tIny, and found safeanchorage~ff a eanmispit,at live fathoms, about luaU’ e tulle f’rona theland.

21st—Got under sail at daylight; but aseverythiumforehold rough weather we soughtshelter, and mmnciuoreth four fatbome at Troughton Island, a quarter of

a tulle from the ehmore. We halt a ‘fine ‘viewfrom here. To tbs west, the Cape—a round hillwith a spit of hand running oat; to the south, time shoresof Vaneittart Bay, Troughiton Island,curvIng round andpartly obstructingthe view; and behindall, in thedistance,on the mainland,high ranges,and animmensequantityofsmokeascendingfrom them. Theislandoppoeltetoue hiattabout 30 feet elevation, and the ground sloped away oneitherside, Someof thereefsaboutthe shorepresentedthisappearanceoh artificial walls,steep,and regular. Landedamuch walked abouttheIsland. Nearthe shore,sandhmilhsandgrassyflats m inland,openforest,All (‘no tImberwas stunted,Including ironbark, paperbark,bastardgum, palms, anddifferent kind, of tropical trees. Crosseda large hollowwith bettergrassthan I hail seenin Norhti Australia,andfound the ground rose inland. Found large blocks oftreestone. Soil sandy—InplacescOyeredthickly with iron-stone. Founda nativewell hardlydry, old campIngplaces,with bonesand shellsof fish and turtle, wurleys of timeshapeof beehives, wIth eemiconhoalentrances,and ,prars.Someof the spearswere simply wooden, others partlywood, partly bamboo. One had a simple point, anothera chiselpointof quartz others mad knobs of wood of tIm eshapeof a tooth, fastenedon to th;em, whichu fitted intotlueunm as In a socket,and was fixed wIth glue or gum.Therewerecockatoosand pigeonson theisland.

22nd—Startedat daylightwith a gentlebreeze,emootksea,andbalmy weather,steeringnorth till towardsevm.nlng,whenwe ranwestabout15 miles,

t3rd.—After a flue nIght’s run we struckat3 ant, on areef. Gotthis boatoft’, and enohoredtill daylight in sevenand a half fathom, water, At dawn were close to (luresremarkablerooke. All the forenoon among iltoals unareefs. Tacked In mill directions, and at length, to simplifymatters,sailedovera shoal. Rowed a greatdeal. Plentyof turtlesand fish about. Heavy dews at night. Qiiantl-tiesof porpoises. Generalcourse,S,”eY.

24th—Passedislands marked on the chartsassouth ofCasini Islands, l’aeeiug Islandsall day. Course, S.W.by W.

25th—Still passing Islands, principally on onr left-Course,SW. ~ W.

26th—la the west we saw a large reef, with sandepitjutting out, and prominentrocks sticking up. Passedbe-tweenthereef and tl;e Islands. Sailedby a large break-water of rooks, smooth and regular— Islets formed ofbouldersof rockof manyshapes,columnar,square,smooth;,and fretted. The bare and walls of some isletswere of dark rock, eurmounted by piles of whatappeared to be a white freestono. There seemedon thIs part of our course an unbroken con-tinuity of islandS, till at lastwe sawlofty rangeson thismainland beyond, and 1.Iount Trafelgar. Still is landsislands,Islande. After leavingCapeBougainvihlewe passedat leastlOll, of everyshape,sIze, andappearance.Someareseveral mIles in extent; others aremeredetachedrock,;some huave stunted vegetation; olhers look quite bare;some look like detachedportions of hilly ranges;someconical; someroundor oval, and flat topped; someslopetothe water’sedge; someare bold and chilly; somesmooth;some diversified with ssndhills; some are rugged anduneven,wIth largerocks plied togetherin a wild andfan-tastic meannermsome exhibit a sandy beach; others areguarded by barriers of reefs. Infinitely varied as theseIslandsare—wildand pietaresque,grandsometImesalmoitto sublimity—thereIs about themeall an air of drearinessand gloom. No sIgnof life appearsontheir surface;scarcelyeven a seahtird hoverson their shores. They seemnaban-demand by Nature to completeand everlastingdesolation.‘i’he barrennessanti silencewere more depressingto usfrom thecircumstancesof ourposition. We hadthoughttofind shelter among so many isles, safe anchorages,when the storms roes and the searaged, but theIslands were more inhospItablethen tbe wide ooeaP,There was deepfathomless waterup to tluelr shoree,ex-ceptwherewe wereon treacherousreefs. iViuateverwindblew we werecompelled to drift, md wereoften forcedoutofour way by furiousCurrentsamid eddies, it wasa relieftromweariness,anxIety,and danger,when we escapedfromthis Archipelago. We tried to get into Camdenharborthrough Rogers’s Straits, but failed, being puzzled b7islands,and baffledby breakersanti eddies.

11th—At 3 n.m. we steeredfor an openingamong theislau;dsto theS.W.,and got among more currents,eddies,and reefs, the seaboIlIng hike a cauldron. Got bottounattwo and a-halffathomson a reef,and puihuingover workedomit to sea. About i p.m. werebetweenAugustusand ByamMartin Islands,and sailedfor severalhours,when thewinddiedatvayand we drifted back somemiles. At 6.30 took tethe oars,and tIme tide runningIn our favor made good pro-gress. tIll midnIght, when the tide changingand a smartbreezespringingup in our favor, we managedbarelyto huohilour own till dawn. We lied passedJi~aunMartini island.andweresteeringE.S.II fur time entranceto Camdenlterboror as that pert of it Is called on the charts,llrecknockHarbor.

2sth.—Foulwlnd~. Kept tackingtill we were obliged toseek for anchorage,and found it at an islandsouth of

VOYAGE OF TilE FORLORN I1OP~.

Almxgostums Island. The summit of the Island wasgrassy, anti a number of diminutIve palms weregrowing The rocks were a kind of slmite. Sawtwo kites,mud regardedthem with ravenouseyes, for ourprovisions were nearly exhausted,beingreduced to tes,sugar,and a packet of maizena. In the evening we sailedto anolherisland,and anchoredundera ridge of dark rock,in eight fathoms,with soft botlom. We had tied little restfor fourdaysand nlghls—whatwith watchIng and rowin~—and it wasa dehightiul relief to find ourselvesIn a harborof refugewherewe could sleepin security.

29th. Felt at daylightconsiderablynneomfortsble. OurprovisIonswereout; we had beentrying to catchfish, hutalthoughtherewereshoalsthey wouldnotbite. Therewasno•ppearanceof gameon shore,and no sign of’ a settlement.Theappearanceand (ha bearingsof the coast,Islands,antichanneiswereso utterly different from the descriptiononany chart, that we had the greatestdifficulty In deter-mining which way to steerfor the harbor, and someof ourparty becamethoroughly sceptical asto its exIstence. Atlast we rowed through a narrow and tortuous passagebetweenisland,,and soon,to ourgreatreltef, we sawa boatin this distance. Oncomingaiongsldsws found a Surveyor(SIr, Cowle) and party. They had a remarkablydull anddespondentlook that rathersurprisedus,expectingto meeteveryone looking happy In so thriving a settlementaswe supposed Camden Harbor to be. We soonbeard the worst news. The 5heep were nearly alldead, and the whole settlementwas a failure. AfterexchanginginformatIon resprotingour rival settlements,weendeavoredto prooeedup the Day, while Mr. Cowlspursuedthe importantdutyof surveyingtheharbor. Thetide was~owlng, but,coming fromRogers’sStraits,was againstus,and wehad to wait at authorand go in with this ebb. Aswe called up the harbor, we saw the wreck of the shIpCahliancethathad struckon a reefoutside,and afterwardssunkatthelanthing.placsabouthalf-a-miledistant.To tim, lefton a red cliff, with range In the background, was theGovernmentcamp. On landing,this GovernmentResident,Mr. Shohl, receivedus kindly and cordially. Messrs.Hamilton, Me3ilnn, and your correspondentbecamehisguests,whIle everyattention waspaid to time wantsof ourcomrades. We remained five ulays at this unfortunatesettlement,and gainedampleinformation respectingIts his-tory, andthe characterof this land In it, vioiulty. Theharbor is mostbeautiful. It stretchesto the westfor eightmilesto whereIt is enteredby threechannelscomingthrotughareefsand islands, It is boundedemsthe south by the hIghrugged hills of hemainland; the hottiest eminencebeluugMount Lookover; on all sidesare bightsanti Inlets, whIlehigh roummdtoppediclandscompletethe picture. ‘i’he rIseand fall of tide is 37~feat, and at low water islandsand forest, of mangrovea are made visible (hintwere out of eight a few hours before. ‘ruecountry was wild and rugged. Dark and IrregularlyshapedhIlls thatseemedto be composedof massesof looserocks. Stoneseverywhere; bat upon every spot of softground,andamongthis rocks,therewa, a luxuriant growthof rank grass. Some of it was kangaroo grass,but tuquality utterly different to that of the southerncolonies,Far awaywere boid mountainsanti ranges,and leadingtothem a successionof bIll and valley, but all of the samestony character, The trees were scarceand slanted,themostremarhablebeingtile baobub,or goutystemmedtree.lime Specimensof this treeI sawwereabout8 or 10 feet Inthestem,largeat thebass.bulging out in the middle, andcontracting at the

top of the trunk; then throwing out

shortgnarledbranches,disproportionatelysmall In circum-ference.Thebark wasvery white,and thewood paheoolored.Oneof thesetreeswas26 feetin girth. Therearea numberof speciesof iodigenousfruitsanti vegetables. .1 gatheredseveral pods of beansa mile or so irom the camp.They are about the sIze of our most common culinarySpecies,and are eaten byboth blacksand whites, I alsosawmelons about the sizeof a largewalnut,and very faireating. Water is readily obtained by sinking at shallowdepths, and there are pieniy of permanentsprings andStreamsat no greatdistance, The mostcommonrocks aresandstone,ironstone, basalt, and quartz. I saw quarbzreefsto thesouthof theGovernmentcamp. I founda pieceof head on thesurface,anti saw specimensof copperfromAuiguistueIsland, Theateduring our staywasremarkablyclear,and In the morning quite bracing. Wevisited timeSettlers,who were encampedabout (era miles i’roni theGovernment camp. They were all ruined, and in- -

tending to leave by the firet opportuolty. Theygive dreadful acoounts of (lie weathuerat the time oftheir arrival. There had been several dcath~ftomui sun-stroke; In onecasea man waspickedup deadin thebush;in anothera settlerreturned,alterspendinga day on shore,to thin vesselby whIch hehadarrived, and expired in a fewminutes. It mustberemembered(limit in thesecasesofeotupdc eotiel the p~’tieshad not landedmany days,and pro-bablydidnot takethe precautionsnecessaryto guard tiieun-selvesfromthe effectsof a vertical sun, ‘(‘he effect of timeheatupon thesheepprobablyexceededanythIngof the kumidever before witnessed. Their feet seemedburned withwaking on the stOneS. All night they were In agony;their panting almost amounted to roaring. The cx-trnordinaryheatwas probably Increasedto a greatextent

bythe retractionfrom time rocks. At thIs time therewaslittle grass, but when it did grow, anti even after ithiattarrIved et maturity,it wasworthuhe,s. Thefew sheepthatwereleft fed on ii. greedily till their stomachswereenor-mouslydIstended,but they still fell obt’uia condition. I sawthe flocks at grass,and neverupon the worstrun, afterthusworst drought In South Australia, ha,e I seen suchwretchedob)ects.Theytilt! notweIghmorethan 19 pounds,end the sighutof one killed and dressedI ehall notreadilyforget. TheGovernmentshueep,however,hadnet lost con-dition to any greetextent,so (hunt(lucre wasprobablysome—thIng iu thusi management;butthis tact thatthey had notimproved was suitlelent to condemn thin country. Thesettlers’horseshad to befedwith corn amid bran, edthemugtithey did no work, and the grasswas abundant ‘l’iue Go-verncaenthorseswere low 1n condition. They haddonssomeexploring,but certainly in South Australia horseswould do threetimes ths work ~~ti hook Imi fair order. Amore unfit spot for stock of any description could not befound anywhere. There is probablygoodcountry Inland,but too far off, mind the ronts too impruohicablefor it to beconnected wIth Camdeniharbor, Onesettler found antitook on leasea small pieceof countrywith good grassantiuseful tImber, eight mIles from the carump, but suctu spotswereveryrare. Thus settlershavebeenblamedfor not look-ing for good country, but (lucy were given to understandthust they would find land fit for sheepand agricultureatCamdenharbor; anditis not probettle tlmat merewith oneor two hundredsheepwould go to a new country to lookfor territory. ‘rhcy expected(bunt wasready for them.Tue whole schemefor settlingCanmdcui Ilarbor was rushand ill-considered. Itow far this Assoclahlonwereto blame,1 would notveneoreto say; but it is fair to supposetheyknewnothhuogof the characterof thus countrythey liiluced somany poor men to try and settleto their rub. ‘fluevictims blame principally Dr. ?,tartln, who ,h~itedthatpartofthincoast,ant publisheda ~otarnst more valuableasa scientific work than us a guide to squattersanti oiliereettiers,for having gtvsn suchlutaccomateaccountsof (hacountry. havIng read Dr. Martin’s work I come to timeconclusionthat tile descrIptionof the landwas.tnt Clue uoalo~correct, lIe describesIt asdreadfully stony,amid as havInghigh, rank grass;but, then, he concludesby giving anopinion thatsheepwould tiurlve there. I wentover Ihuesitethathad beenselectedfor the prIncIpaltown of the district.It was verydry, and wouldhave time advantageof a rockyfoundatIon. it waselevated, but did not oceuppya com-mandIngposition, the prospectbeingobscuredby theneigh-boring hills. At somepartsof the proposedtown of Elliotthuere wasa view of thin inlets and bights of the harbor.Wild turkeyswereroamhmugabout, Tile GovernmentResi-dent hind not counmeu;cedthe survey,as lie expectedtimesettlementwouldbeentirelyabandoned.

Mr. Shohi gaveme muchvaimisblsluforunatloorespectingthecountryhehadexploredabout the Gleuelgandbetweenthat river and Camden Harbor. The countrywasmoun-tainous,with looserockeandshonesalmosteverywhere.Thodifficulties of travelling were imuncnse. l’lus lmorsrs werecontinually losIng shoes,anti if not reehuod,they werehamsalmeetinstantly. ‘there were many hIgh ranges,mind Mr.Shuoll’spartydid not succeedIn finding an outlet into morepracticablecountry. Time couuntry was well wateredwithrivulets andlargerstreams. Not muobugoodland was seenexcepton hlmsmpton Downs and alotug the banks of the

‘streams. Mr. Shellstatedthat hefound Grey’s deseriphhomiof the hand wonderfully correct, Some few weeksbefore our arrival time settlement had been vIsItedby Malays, There wereabout 300—in sevenproSeand 3dcanoes, ‘i’hey were a wretclued lookIng lot, and bad forfirearmsbuta few old rusty Slut muuehtetsamid two orthreosuuiahhrusty cannon. The mmativea drove them awayfromthewatering-places,anti killed oneof their nutrubec. Thesearethe formidableplrate9againstwhoseattacksit wassup-posedthe party at Adam tiny mIght have to muintainadesperatedefence. At i’ort Esslmmgton the llalayswereafraidof thenatives,who were remarkablyhaymlesa. litJukee’swork tluereisafull descrlphionof the characterantIhabits of the aborigines,and of the Malays that visitedthat part of the coast, Notwithislundlug all this, gravedoubtsweresuggesteda, to wiieth;er, If the Fomlornt (topsfell in wIth the numerousfloillia (hunthad visited Camdenilarbor, sometusmolt mtghtnottie offeredto our flag. Beforewe left the settlement we supplied ourselves wIthprevisions sufficient to take us to Nicol flay. TheGovernment Resident allowed hIs mechanicsto maksmis a heavier anchor titaut the ens we possessed,and abinnaclefor our lamp. We purchaseda ship’scompassofa settler,and Mr. lllcMInn took tracingsof the coast as farFremnantle,from theAdmiralty charts,

Ott the3rdJanewe tookheaveof ourhost, from wholmawOhad receivedeveryassIstanceIn prefacingfor (huecontinua-tion of ourvoyage,andeveryattentionto our comfort thatcourtesyand kind feelIng could suggest. From eli thegoodpeopleat CamdenHarborwe receivednotbuingbut kIndneSs,emil ove shall always have pleasantrecollectIonsof thatsettlement. We took with us hier Majesty’s malland ma multitude of messagesto peoplein I’erth. Onleasing the landing at time camp we sailed overto the wreck of this Callianco, ilere several ifthe Vl,stunlan settlers who lied purchased this wreck

VOYAGE OF THE FORLORN IIOPR

had their tents erected on the shore, and were busyin preparImugto burn time hull as thus oumly way to get thudcopper from tuer. lYe purchaseda cable, and soon afteretuiinmugate enormouscohummunof smokearoseiromn tIme wreck,‘i’hus Caliltaneawas on firs as If in honor of our thepariurs.ilad (buntvessel beenat Adam Bay acutler would certainiyheavebeen made from her for themmuejorityof the party toescapeby.

4th—WedId not getoutof this harbortIll 4 am. Coumrss,~Y.S.W. Wind S , and light all day Weathier lookingthreateningin the evening. Little wind through thenight.

tith,—No land In eIght this morning. l’lenty of fishabout, Imuctuding barracoots. At neon, hat. 15°40’ 21”.fltacleay Islandsin sbgtut, bearingS. by bY’. Cltiudy in thusafternoon,with drops of rain, Ileauhhfulsunset, Durhmugthis night violent pull’s of whnti, and we towered the main-sailand jib~ Smart showerof rain.

0th—Hoistedall sail at aboute n.m., and this wind soonleft us with a heavy swell on this sea. lhrue Stock on ourright at daylIght. Fish and tunIcs about. and sea-bIrdssailIngover ourheads. Course,W.S.W. Got luito shallowWiSerat S am—two and u-half, two, and three fathiomne;we supposedwe wereon thue edgeof a reef. CaffcrelhiIsland bearingES.E. At 1.30, water stmalloevedto twoanda quarter fathoms, andwe stood SE. till the waterdeepened.Jtottomcoralor rock. ContInuallygettIngintoshallowwatertill a little afher 9 cm., whien we got clear,Wind vanlublsall day antiS. in the night.

7th —Had driftednorthward; latItude160 1’ 115” at noon.Strongbretzeall nightand searising.

8th—About4 nm. the lronwomk of our rudder brokeloweredsails, andputout a steeroar; seahigh and rough.Latitude at noun, 16°31’ 55”; still drifting. Seamoderatedafternoon.and we mendedthe rudder and baled out theboat, Some of time party unwell, two having cramps,anotherbillIons, anothuerwittu dysentry, amid mm f’ourthi verysick, buteat very well. \Vind variable, antihihgh at night.

9th. —The seagetting worse tillafter daylight ; a dread-ful cross sea that our sailing master, White, said wasenoughuto swampall thus boatsthat ever were made Ateunrisethis sIght was terrIbly grand—thelong swell, theamountainwave,the deephollow, time esbilte foumun—as faraswe could see, thus scene was one of wild disorder. Whenuponthin ereetof a unhghutysea,we saw ourselves about todeecendintoa deephollow like time extinct craterof a vol.caumo. Down we went, highseasfiaini;mg all aroundus. ThinbowsprIt just kissed the water,and the Forlorn Hoperose like a ducit upon the next wave. Thu stormdiii not increaseafter sunrise, and at 10 am, showedsignsof moderatIng,and beforenoon we had all canvasset.LatItude170 14’ 35’; wind,S.S. by d. Porpoisesfollowingus,anti shoalsof fish about. Yellow snakeswith blackspotsfloatIng on thus surface; jellyfish abundant. In theafternoon(lie wind rosetill it increasedto a gale. Theeskyhad a hun, cold, appearance. This waves awfully high,and we shippedsomeheavyseas;one in particularsunk thisboat how, andwe had to ball for our lives. Wepassedanawful night,expectingeveryminute to be our last. half-drownedanti bItterly cold; constantly bailing; haying towith a leg of muttonsail,

lOth.—A.tdaylIght thescenewas frightful, and we longedfor a shIp to deliver us from ourperil; but we knew (hunt~vswereoutof the trackof all vessels. SnakesfloatIng onthe billows, About midday the storm showed signs ofmoderasimag,antiwe hopedto m~nkssahi again,butaseveuahmigcameon thee wind roseto a gale, and we found we had topassanothernight ofsufferingand perIl. Oneof time partywasseized with shivering fits. We had no medicine,butaImninisterelruun, and essenceof gingern rubbedhIsfeetand covered hulun up In his bed; blankets,clothing,antieverythingsaturatedwith water. NIght clear,and Itue coldbiting.

llth.—Sanday. We had passedthrough mm nIght oftempest, danger,amid pain; thee storun worse than over,the waves not higher, but we lund cross seas, withthco billows breaking over thee boat and dashuingher round, Thus invalid suffered very much, and’-’poor follow — we were utiable to cook, or doauythuhuag for him but give hIm thu rum antigInger. A, the morning wore on the tempest stillraged. There was en awful feature in the stormthatmorning. Thewaveswere huhghu and steep,and as two ofus sat wtstchuingthee horrible scene, we saw an Immenesseaapproachingalmostperpentlioular,amid a hew feet at thusuummunltquite so,amid of a bright green coltir and cappedwith foam. “We shall never get over that,” both ex-claimed; butthereis no craningat thosefsnee~,and on wewent. Aswe expected,(hue topof the sea brokeoveribisboat,nearlyupsettingher, and thasiied line down the steepdescent,and thus mass of water surgIng underdroppedus clown on this othuer sile. “ Bull, quIckI” wasthis cry, and we preparedfor the nsxt sea. We hind thrtuoof tbueeewalls of water, with t-huetrgreentopsunit crests offoam tenth it sseumeedii mIracle how we escapedfranc suchdanger. Sauththunetheboat wasdashed tbown In the earnsway, and a quatutity of water thirotyn icto tier, At mioon -

we wersonce moreuieluthu’d wltim the litli,t of tIme guile le~—aening,andwe changedour legof uumuttumm null buttsa double.

reefed foresail, ‘We took iatlttmds 150 36’ 32” In thusevemming the semi unit whuuib IncrtaeeI,and we wereobligedto takeIn canvas. Thewives hi eke against us fronn (hiresdifferent dlrcoliomus. We were now so exhuau~tedthat IntIme damugerwe commld sleep, mind evem; this man at thus hielumikept continually trapping off and waking wIth a shurt.Wit were cnuiniped amid tirlured wIth nhueuntatbopaIns,causedby being so long wet smith remainhmug 1mm time suuummapostture. During thus night we cut down this unuilnmastanti let it Iloat away; we could not umefastenIt tumid takeit thown without movingaboutand probably upsettingtheboat,

12th—Morning broke upon us stIll battling with the.storm. Awful as(lie dauuger was,tImers was a hieree andalmm;oot plecoluig excitementIn seeIngthus gallant way inwhich the Forlorn hoperode over thin mountainbillows, orrecoveredheroelfafter beingdashuedaguluiet by cross seas.Duringthe Icy tIme storm abated. A few boatswaIn birthscaine round us. We ran all night undera close-meefetiforesail.

t3th.—OursItuationstill hooked more hopeful, we couldseeover a greaterexpansoof wild seamt;md whIte surf. ‘I’hebreezewas strong,hut we evensgettimmgunder the imehluoaesof time land, mmmcd with a south-castwind (lie seamoderatedfast aseve up~iroaoiued(hit shore. We beganto feel thatourworst dangerwasover, and to feel proportiomuatelytliauukful.No mcmi, probably,were seeri;m greaterperil for so long atime. Fortunatelywe liarS moomuhiglut—tIme sky, night antiday,wearing a hardglaringappearance,with scarcelyevera sIgnof cloud.

14th—Aboutloam,sawsmoke In the directIon of land,anti mit it. 15 a uw lamedItself. Latitude at noon,19° 45’ 51”.TIme coasthow and barnoumlooking. Ahomig time shorewhitesandhlllswith little vegetation. Endeavoredto hind in theseinIngto dry ourclothes,but thereseersheavy rollers .onthat renderedit dangerous,to we stoodou;, tandanchoredinfour fumthioms.

l5th.—Sahledat dayhighutW.S.W. Coaststill low; canoftensecsmokewhen no landis vIsible Warmnhghat.

letbm,—Coursa W’.S.W’. Wind still 5.5., occasIonallyvarying forum tIme. Weathercloudy, wIth cold wind anddrizzlingrain,

l7th.—A breezosprang up. and we sailed till mIdnight,when we lay to for fearof passingI’unile hshammi, whuere welumtendetito try for turtles anti eggs. Soonalter ihayhigiutsightedtheisland,mind having a good breeze, and all sailset, rapidly overhummulcdll. lVs found it guarded by muchwrenreels than’Wo lied expected. Large rocks warnedusoff; tremendousbreakerssentup volumesof waterburstingmb spraythat lookedat a dist.mnce like ciouds of smeuoke,Theretens, ofcourse,someway of gettingto thin Island withanoaredbout, butit wouldnot havedoneto riak thusForlornSlope;so all our vIsions ot turtle soupand pelleami’s eggswere,dispelled. Time smaller‘[untie islamidwas toofar outofour course, Point Larry was vissiblo in thus mmuorumhng.Afterwards sawnothing o’ the mainland,butsmoke eva,visIble all day.

l8th,—BreeZsH. to E.by S. till noon. L’asvetl over tIme(JeogrttplueShoals,wherewere humitiulreds of ttmrtle. l’aswdCapeThonin. Our meat all flumiebeed. Jellyhlehm Buntingabout, Wimeul variable during time aiternoon. Sluice tryinto anchoron the lithe eve heardday and mmhghmt tlms sound0heavyrollerson the beach. LatItudeatnoon,20°19’ 11”.

lsth.—Sighmteti Cape Laenbert,which we reac’ied about 2p.m., anti emiteredNicol 1iay,saIlIng betweentime mainlandanti fiezoutIsland. [lie coaetboldertItan any we had beenaccuetomethto for somedays. ‘[lie hills appearedto haveagooddealof Ironstoneabout theta. Therocks at tIme shearswererough until etrangslookimug—somowashmetiinto archesand concaves,others into the unoet rugged and fantashlaforms, with multiiule~ of excrescenceslike stalactites.Patchesof sandybeachappeared,menuS In placesreefsjuuitedoutfrom tIme shore. At 5 p.m. we were tiuggitug(hue tumid onthus eouthesIde of (lie bay. bY’s sailed priucelpaihyby stilidrock of time color for so;ne dhstaucsof coltiter ores. Wealmnostfanciedwe couldsee(lie greemuanti yellotv carbonates.ibis hand met flueother slits of time bay plainly visible. [‘lemityof turtles, Jelh~Ilohi ol a peculIar shape,like unimshuroutmums,wIth a huoroetail altachiod. ‘rhey were of dilferent colors.Snakeslolluwimtg us. At about4,31 hearda cooey,mmmiii sawnabives on (he sumnuait of a rIse. ‘[lucy mmitttlofleito us to come to Itucun, and eve steereul towanth~thebeaatu, tiut could not lend on accotumit etC rooks umud theeSivell. ‘h’nleil to comunuumleatswith lice natives,but we wereunmlntchlhgit.ileto cccli oilier. ~V’ewereobligedto (minim away,and when we did so (lucy all gave a tromnenionsgroan.I’here were about twenty men, wonmen,and chihilreuu Onourmnovhimg up this bay one ran alouig this top of a hill towatchour mnoveenento. About suuudouvn we fancied wecould see tents,minI just afier drmrle sawa lIght, when Wecastunction. Fireub two barrels of a revolver, and weremanewerof Ity three dIstinct sig;i:tl lights, when we firedunuithmerbarrelin reply,anti rentedsatisfiedwe lurid found I liesettlers. I~atltimiieit noon,20°32’ 6’’. During this uuighitwe beganto doubtwhetherthe aettlemnentwas not a n~tiVsomue.

2(itli.—At daylIght all doubt as to whether we luau fotmtldcivilized beingsevusremoved,for we heard a 000ey,and im.

VOYAGE 01? TIlE FORLORN hOPE.

mediatelyafterwardssawa native inviting us ashiore. As,however,the shorewassomedistancefrom us, and we hada fair wind, we pushedon,thinking the settlersmustbehigherup the Slay, as we had seenno sign of a landing-place. We passedislands,rocky points, and long stretchie~of low shorefringed wIth mangroves. About noon steeredfor a samcdhuihl; calling for this lastmile or two over threefeet of water. ‘I’ook the boat up toe rockyedge,anti someof uslanded,while otherspushedherout, and anchoredinmuddybottom, Lahitumule,20~4v’ 15”, This boat was soonhighand dry~whenall came ashore,and we distendedour--selveswIth porridgeand scones. In the afternoon severalof usstarletSto walkacrossa plain to arangeof reckyhulato thinsouth, abouttwo miles distant, Found wiry grass,a lIttle saltbuuhu, a great deal of spinifex, anda f~w busbies. Crossed a dry watercourse withpebbly bottom. The ground was very dry andhard, and the grass haul been burnt. Saw white men’stracks,very old. iteachedthe hills, anuS,and on arriving atthetopsfollowedthemwestfor a mile toepoint, from whichtherewasa fineview of this bay and surroundIngcountry.Wahad noticedthatthebay wasboundedon this westby areef,but we sawwaterbeyondthat. bVhen I looked fromthehill thetide hadreceded,anuSleft a dry ssvamp trendingreuud toiths south asfar as the eye could reach. Thecountry everywherelooked desolate and barren. Iua alldIrections,exceptseaward,we sawhills similar to thatevewereupon. No sign of timber,except a few stuntedtrees.Far to this south.huigluer rangesappeared; theyrooked blue~nd Wooded,and probably were in bettercountry. Smokerosein different placesfromtheirsummIts. The hills wewere on were composed very much of Ironstone.Timerswasquartzaboutthemand on theplaIn. Numbersofsandhillsdotted the plain to this east and south. Saw arock wallabyand numeroustracesof others. Followed thehills eastward, and descendedtill we cut the creek wehadcrossedlower down. Stuntedgum, with barkof a re-markablewhIteness,grewIn the bed. Followed the creekdownabouttwo miles till we cameto allttle water,otwhmhithwe drank heavily. Limestoneall along the creek, Re-tannedto theboat. Thin eandhuhilby which we wereanchoredwasa camping,placeof thenatIves.‘[lucreweremanyold lire-

laces,fish andturtlebones,and breakwlndsof bushes. lVeound two curiousfIshIng arrangementsthatwe werequitsunable to comprehend. They were constructedin thisfashion:—A mugaboutfour feetin length andeIghtinchesIadiameter,havimugat each endslogaboutone and a halffeetlong, peggedon dIagonally. A notch was cut round eachshort piece,!anrla cordattached,and runningfrom oneend ofthe machintsto the other. One of these contrivanceseva,carefullycoveredup wIth grass theother hay on thus beach.We supposedthese thelngs were floated with fisiuhooksattachedto (1mm; butwhy thediviiion lain threepieces?Wecould not understandhow (lucy boredthis hoission peggIng.Thelimited time at our disposalcompelledus to leavethesequestionsunsolved. Wheua next we vIsit Nicoi Slaywemay InvestIgate them more fully. LatItude at noon25°45’ 15.” ThIs partof theBaygoesfarther inlandthanappearsupon thecimart~.

21st—At daylIghtthreeof uswent to the spotwhere wefound water in thuscreek,hoping to fluid more by sInking,butweredisappointed, Alter sinking two and a half feet,we cameto decomposedslats. There wasshaleabout, andplenty of tab. Sawa nativeburying-~groummm1almostin thebedof thecreek. Starteda quail, and sawemuand dingotracts. Returnedto the boat,and startedfor (hueoppoilteSlOeof the Bay, About a or S mIles f’rom shore water 5fathoms, Anshnrsd at 4 p.m., two miles lrona land,tlaewind heavIngdiedaway.

22nd.--Sailedat 2a.m.,and rommndsdpoInt afterpoint ofthemainland,anti anislandruoningnorthof it, tIll a littlebeforee am.,closeto the north point of the Island,evesawa smallsandybIght, and determnlneehIsland,and geta viewfrom time hills. On nearingtheshorewe sawa native,whoranalongthe beaehc,and then alongthusrocks,making greatgesticulations, We spoketo hIm, and madesignsthat wewere goingbland, ~vhmeuihs ranto meetus,and threeorfour othermenmadetheirappearance,with iouir boys. Twoof the men hadspears,and shookthem at us n but as wsapproachueminearer,(heylaid themonthue beach. Not knowinghow manymightbe in (he background,we loadedall thusfIrearms, and runningthus boat ashore, two of us handed,one havIng a nevoleer in lila belt. The rest of the partystoppedfor sometimein this boat. EIght nativesmet mis,andwereirlendlyenouughm,An old mankept intime dhstance,anddidmuot comsto us during thus day. Its wasprobably bslilndthe tiunes, and the slays of anilqmuatedpni’Jullees againstforeigners, With this uunticosunoitolihanwasa remnarluabhyfine dingo,harge, broudehmesteuf,amid in good conuiltiomi. Wefoundthu nativesknew nothimigof the eettleumient, but theyhumuS seenwhitepeople. ‘[lucy usedof theIr own accordmmhutmmteightor ten EngIlihu words, inchiuuhingwater, butocy, suugumr,huy.umnd.Itye, aarl tluanhc you. i’luey begged(or hiorl, htmlthat teastoo ccaroewith us at thuimt tlumee. We gavethemknIves and tobacco. They offered usfish readycoumks b, butWe were afraid (lucy weuhti exIted us to payhun time mealwith Interest, or II would have been welconis. ‘[lucyappearedto haveao,n, notIons of time hiablh~of businessmen, for it was not till eyeulmug that they uffare~to

lmctroduoemustotheir faunlhies—anInvhhatlomc thusneoseeltyofproceetlhngon our jom:rmiey preventedus from ao’eluuiuug.[lucy sbuowedus materin tIme rocks nearly at tb~Pumnmumitof this hills, about three ilumrtcte’rs of a mmuhls fnttuim time boat.bYe took In a full Bahuply Inc slit Journeys. ibis umrmliee’sshowedussomeof theirdrawingson tIme rocks. ‘ihuereweresketchesof flshmei, turtles, lIzards, and dlhhbrtrnt kInds ofbirds, including emnus, One muatlee made a sketchu of atenthson the sand, If the penlormancewould not linesSatisfieda critIcaleys, it had at any rate(hue merit of b lugdasherSoIl’ evhthu a free hand, One of our parly ttueucdresv the outline of a hu~nee.which sorely pumzzhei thetim.Oneof themenshord more (lien slit feet, ant mnostofhhuemnwereabovelimo mediumheIght All winehually ebiahtu’SenSskInny, Moot of them hal that peemuhlanihymeumthonedIuyStokesrespectingthis natlees:ohDamnplersLameSoh ImavimugtheIr eyes nearly clo~etl,(hue result of contInually keepingtiuem almnostshutto excludethe 111cc; so Ihuat to look at anmyone In tIme fnca thmt’y throw their hmt’ads back, and c’lewahetheirchuln~.TheIrfrIendlinessaimnoetamnoammbe’tIho alfeblon,and they wereobedlemut tO our relurots. ‘i’hurlr epearswereunbuurbed. [lucy had short pohnmed sticksfrom one ti, tmm’ofeetIn lemeghtu,thatthey imefturnied us mvm’re usedherslulihuingturtles. We Bhot a boauthluI cresteddove lucre. Stockoysserswereabminhamit. \Vs found anoysterof a remncrkah.ulskind, of time size of an ordinary oyster of tlui~coast,but wIth a thinner smoother ebiell. Time hish wasyellow, and in places a very bright yellow; andthere was a tuft of brIstles piecIng quite undertheihsh, mind overlappingthe upperedge. On,, of (huemm-lives toldus (lucy wereexcellentcooked,but in a raw stalewerenbbcctionabbe. ‘fliers werewallabiesin thurocks. ‘limehills werecomposedof piles of looserocks. [lucrewasiron-stone and tale, amuti ha l,Iaees himneetoue, Scarcely anytimber; but 1mm hmoflows, thuromughwhich a tiny watencours~ran, timerswereStuntedgum trees. ‘lucre werea few men-grovesnear (hechore. All alongtheislandwerea successionof stonyhIlls. In tueeveningeve preparedto start,anti nothaving been abbo to fluid aumy slgmms oi a cctthermmi’nt, wereeheter;uuluoeclto makefor Chaunplou

11ay. We had about UI

It’s, of Ilsur, 22 lbs. nioc of tIme worst qualIty, and two ortimespoundsof oalm;’al anti oialzena. Wedttermnneuh,aflerfinIshing (hue two hatter articles,to put ourselveson (lurespints of flour and rIce perdiem for tIme whole oh us. tlavhngtaken in wood and water, eve went on board,an’S lay atanchorfor thenIght.

23rd—At daylightweighmeilanchor,and rounlInga pointSteeredW.S.W. ior what apltu’aredan opemuhng aheadof us.After four or live mnileo got Into shiali,w waler—oneanula-half to two fathoms, l’asceul eeveral low, square’,rockyislets, and a grutsoy island. i’rhu’d aniupenclngto (huenorthubneastof us, On reaching It footed it very narrow—notabove 20 yards wIde. Time current evas e’ery stromug—atleasteIght miles an hour. SometImesthere evens Ibureefathoms of water,and titanrocks threefeetfrom (lie surfaoe.We loweredrail on ap;troacbilag,but time current was espowerful ths only course wee to go through time channel.We backedwaterwlthu theoars,antishovedthe boatoff therooks as she ruohueth through lIke a racehorse. lYe thenfound (hut Insteadof beIng in tImeopen seawe werecur—rounded on all sides by Islands aumul reels, except It,the eait, the direction from whIch we came, Weturned in (limit direction, aol this wind beIngagaInst us pulled till nearly midday, when we werepast the last night’s anchuorage,and had a full vIewofour old Iantllng.placs. Cookedoatnueucl amid flour, W~lit the firs In a campoven,and boiled in a bucket. b%1eboiled everythingto makeit go further. About 1.30took totheoarsagain,nubcontinuedpulling till after4p.m.,whmerithewinui enabledusto sail. At sunset(lucre was a stroncurrentagainstus,andwe muncluored betweenLegenuulrs antDelamnbne Islandsin 11 fathoms water. Both isiands arerocky but gracoy on theIr ~urfuuos.This passuugsttetweemeLegemidre and hlaay lehumnuis apprarcubimnpructlcablsetcaccountof breakers A N. IV. breezeduring this melghit unedomis anxious;we couldnothelp thinkingof this mnuchu.tlreaihelN.W. Cape,anti fearedthinmootdangerouswlnI haul setIn.

2ith.—At daylIght fomimarl to our Joy thimit this wInd halshIfted to theS.5., mind (lint eve hired probubuly t~kemelsavsof Nlcol B my with lie dreary and th’oohate looklmug scenery.Steered N. by bY, about four miles, NW. sevenmilep,W.N.W. teuc miles,then bY. At 11.30 DelamrmbrelolanI outof sIght. At 3 30 steered IV.S.W., thue Iartt’cr point tti’Legendro lehandbearIng S. bY. Wind dIed awayhue theevenIng. Light and varIablewInds tiuroughuthus nIght,

25th.‘—GlorIous sunrIse over clouds reflectingfrom ihetredges time moost varIeS antI brillIant hues. Lb~buttlct’cyclu,mids in all partsof tIme sky.intercperseIwIthu Ohhmero of adarkercolor. hurtleabout LalItuie at noon,21t°27’. Rockyl’oluit, l’mitierby Isbaud,bearIngS. by B.; whnul, SN.E. itSuemsetclauSbrinks amid thank scud all round. Winds lh~htand variableall nIght.

Zotlm,—Varhublo winds all this forenoon anti ceasIngaltogetbuer after midday till evening. Lalhiumihe at uuotfl,200 15’ 30’’ ; dark scuh Ittallmug ,ibtut mit du~k: variablewinds eli mulghut dnutpsof ralmu. (‘lie dewswerenut so messyafterreachmlumgNlcol ibay.

27th.—Al ulusyhighit, sawrocky Isdesto tics ME. l’orpohseeand tn&kes aboutthe boat. Lalittc’.le at noon,2Q°4~’23

VOYAGE OF THE FOBLORN HOPE.

Light anti variable winds all day and nIght, Stormypetrelsflying round. Nightcold with heavydew.

Isth.—At daylIght, saw on our left the north-eastIslandof flee trendingto (hesouth-west. Immenseshoalsof fishrisingand playingon the surface of’ the water,and makinga noise like a tempest. Latitude at noon,20015’. bV’ent tothe island we sighted at daylight, and landed. Plentyofdriftwood and largebushes. Took In firewood. Theislandleada rIdgeof randhlhls running roundIt, and a plaIninthe middle, with spinifex and other worthlessvegetationgrowing on it, Therewerecurlewson shore,but very shy.We shot fourseabirdein ths water,but the strongcurrenttookthemawaybeforewe had a chanceto geithem. Abun-dance of turtle close to (he beaoh; if we could havestopped at mmlghut, we could leave supplied ourselves,but a fair breeze springing up between3 and 4 p.m.,we setsailwith threeihihhiawk’s eggsand somefirewood,asthe rewardof clx miles rowing and a loss of eIght mileson our course. We had Islandson our right; the five onour left arecalled Stocky Isles,but they have merelya fewrocks round their base,and grass or vegetationor somekInd on their summits. The whole Coastabout here isstuddedwith islands, Wind lulledat 7 and diedaway.

29th,—Just aftermidnight a fins breezecamsfrom theSE., and we had a splendidrun all night. During theforenoonit shifted tIhi it stoppedat N.E. Course,SW’.At 11 am,passeda sandyisland,SE. by S. Immediatelyafterwardssaw bottom, and soundedfrom one and a halt’to four fathoms, and then passedintodeep water. Abun-danceof turtle. Breakers to the south.east,A reefex-tendsfully threemiles north-eastfromtheisland,which isseven or eight miles, accordIngto this chart, from theJ(ossihly Island of the French, Latitude at noon, 2t~18’ 25” Breezefreshenedtill ourjurymnast,madeof an oar,cracked,and hued to be stsyed. At 1 p.m. ThouvenardIsland on our port bow. During the afternoonpassedaline of low sandyislands, keepingthemto the east. About10 p.m sawa sandyisland,unnamed. Shortenedsail, soasto round theCape In the morning. Pleasantnight. Windat midnightfromS.E.

30(h.—Cohd towards morning. At daylIght sighted?mluiron Island, and passed between the i~landandCape, within two miles of this former, The island,or rather islands—for (hens are two—low, grassy,wIthouttimber, and with shelvingshores. ApproachIngtheCape the land looks bold, but is stIll higher along theExmouthi Gulf. On the gulf shore hihl~iookeml wooded,amid smokewas visible. TurnedwestaboutSam, and tookIn the mainsail. At noon we had wehh roundedthe Caps.Let. 21° 49’ 12” We haul a beautiful run round, Therewereeandhlhlsalongthe shors,both on the gulf and oceanSides,asfaraswe could see. Heavy breakerson the shore.I1

’ins night, PassedPoint C1oe~tesat 11.30 pm. Nearlydriftedon a reef. All nightheardthus roarof the breakers.

July 1.—At daylIght could seethe spray rising up likeinlet-clouds. Latitude at noon,23°5’ 18”. Ws head beenrantingwithin from five to eight milesfromthe shore,andthin coast from the NortIu—we~tCape to thIs pointwas aswretched-lookingas any part of thee continent.barren,desolate,treeless,aud of a dingy brown color. Iknew it wastheseasonwhen in thoselatitudesAustralianlandscapewouldhavea witheredappearance,but here werelargepatcheswithoutany vegetationwhatever. About thatline of coast,there Is no elementof the sublimeto redeemIts horriblebarrenness. A longrangeof ecufeet elevation;no ruggedness,no beetling crag,no sleep mountainordarkravine,no chasmor overlaanghngprecIpice. The lulls aresnioothsldedwith a dulluniformityof height,andappeartobeelevatedonly to rendermore ConspicuoustheIr sterility andmonotonoushideousnese, Twenty-lIvemimefrom thecapsthe hills looked a little more irregular, but there was thesameabsenceof forest,thesameappearanceof desolation,

2nd—Atdaylight,Could indistinctlyseethuscoast throughthehaze endmist—to the north wereperpendicularcliii’s;to the southlower land,trendingaway in a kInd of bIght,and then comingout in the form of boldcliffs of reddish-white color, PassedCapeCuvler,andCape Cuvier of the]i’rench. Theview wasIndistinct up to thIs point, but theland appeareddesolate—partlycliffs, partly steep slopes,with sandhhll~here and there. Letltudsat neon,24°II’.The wind wasN.W. in the afternoon,and we steeredforShark’s itay, and ranunder the shelterof this lierumuien andDomeIslands,the former of which we sightedbetween3end4 pin. Cold afternoon,andcalm nIght.

3rd—At daylight, had passedIlemnier Island, and badDuerre Islandon ourright—distantabout10 mIles. Shoressteepand cilify, someof the clIffs being extremelywhite.¶l’huers appearedto be scrub or stuntedtimber about (lieIsland. bYefound soundIngsat 6, 5, 4, and 3~fathomsaridthenanchored,therebeinga calm. AtterleavingNicol Slaythe mostcommon wind had been SE., or from that toE.S.E.; but the wind went all round the compasstcearly every day, and often stood a hong while atN.E. We were perpetually in fear of Its setting infront the NW., and no colonial Saxbys—no marinersever watchedthe signsof the weather moreearnestlythanwe dId. Before anohoniogwe had greatsuccesswith thegun,having ehotsevenstings. We ahioCaughtthreefl~hiof

a peculIarspeoles,weighing about12 or 14 lbs. eaoh,some-thing like a cod,particularly about the heath. They headnoscales,and the skin had & shiny appearanoe,with blackspots. They distendedtheirstomachswith wind, and thenlet them eollapse, We did notlike thelook of thecreatures,butthe fleshappearedwholesome,and we determinedtonuuall risk andfeed on them. Just alter anohorlngwe caughta schenapper,and looking Into the watersaw shoals,antipulled up 28 in lessthan that number of mInutes. Wedeeistedfrom motivesof humanity,for we had as many a.we could use, or we mIght havefilled the boat in a shorttime. ‘,V’e now threw away our spotted friends. We dIs-covered afterwardsthat they were called blow-fish, andweredeadlypoison. In the afternoon commencedboilingthe echnapper. We were ravenous,and whIle the bollhmiwasin progresseveryoneclusteredround thefire and grilleand toastedfor himself. We had two bollings, and alto-getherwe eat ninelargeCchnapperweighIngat least 50 lbs.,when we felt satisllsd. Wind setin SE.deadagainstus itoutsIdethebay,so we remainedat anchor.

4th.—After sailing a few miles alongthus Island weanchoredfor the restof theday and alt night. We gorgedon achnapper,of whIch we caught14 more, when shanksdrove them from the ground, lichnapper,blowfish, antislings,all fedon crabs,aswe foundon openIngthem. Liuti.tude at noon,25~7’, Cold weather;we were glad to wearour top-Coats.

Cth.—Aftera beautiful nIght, a glorious sunrise, anti awarmbalmyday. Wind beingSt., we sailedat earlydawn,going along within two miles of the Island, The shoreswere low clIffs of rook,partly looseand partly solid; inlandgrassywith leashes.The nearer we were to the Islandthe more bare of timber it appeared, Still feedingonsohnapper. Water imooth, but we felt a swehi aswe approachedthe channel between the island andtiampler’s Iteef, At 10.30, the wind dying away, weanchoredIn sevenand a half fathomswater. The anchor-agesin this bayare sandy, often with greatquantitiesofweed. Fromtheepoint of theisland a reefnuns out abouttwo miles, Lend abreastof us showedbills, with slopingsummitsvery barsof bushesorgrass. Ahead,at the pointof (heIsland,thegroundwas muchhigher. StartIng, aftera short timewe sawDIrk IhartogIslandabout 1 pin. Sawa largewhale. Turning the pointof theislandthe sIghtofthus breakerswasgrand. Somerose in columnsto a greatheIght; othersbrokein highbodies of water, and foamedover thereeks. The whole of the west half of (hue pointseemedenveiopedin sprayand mist, We listenedto thistremendousroaring,and felt thankfulwe had not tried thepassagein thenight-time. At sunsetthe wInd ceased,antiwe rowed till 9p.m., whena light SE. breezestarted.andduring the night we got throughlice channeland put theboaton hercourse,8.5.hI

&th.—In the morning the seawas rather rough, with alongswellon. DIrk lIartog’sIsland had a mist overit alltheforenoon. It is high land, appearinglike rangesofbills, dark andgloomy. Occasionallywe couldseethe steepohlils overhangingthesea. About mid-daywe wereoff thefalse entrance between the Island and the mainland.Latitude at noon250 9’ 45”, The coast on time mainlandis low, sanuihlhisnearthuspoints, then low yellowish clIffs,their summitsshowingdry grassbutperfectlybare of tim-ber. Snakesfollowed us,and albatrossessailed round theboat. Finishedour sohnapper,thoseuncookedhaying be-comeuneatab)s.Theshagsshoton the 3rdwe cut up andstewedwith tics. Thepreparationof this dish was quitesufficient for your correspondent; the ftesh was ned andrank; I shallneverforget the odour; for aeveral days allcreationseemflaveredwith shag. Oneof the partywasIll,butthe remainingfive devouredthewholeof the delIghtfulpreparation, two-thirdsof a buoketfulat a meal, &nd pro-nouncedit cIslioloue—inftoitely to bepreferredto the ins ipidsohnapper. It was a pore matterof taste. During theright weather&ltsrnately cloudyandflue; lilct winds mostof the night. -

5th—Towardsdaylight the breezefreshened. About anhourbeforedawn took in the mainsaIl. Wind N.E.,gettingstrongertherIug theforenoon, andthe seavery rough. Wehadgot out 20 milei from land,and the seabeing on ourbroadsidewe receiveda good wetting, About 15 am. theweather moderated,and soon after the suncameout,andthe sky lost its wintry appearanCe‘ even the wind waswarm. Latitude at noon,27 0 (5’, in theafternoonwindN.W,, and weather threatening. All longing to reachChampion flay before a buretercams on, We pulled intowardsthe toast,andran wilhin sevenoreight milesof it.Land high,but the atmospherewas o hazy we could seelIttle of It. Sometimeswe sawcliffs, and timber in places.We sawsmoke o~shore,the fia’et since leavinglixmouthlGulf. Plenty of albatrosseeen.d & few caps pIgeons.In the latter part of the afternoon thee land becamemoredistinct,and we could seethe green foliage of trees.rasasd Gantheaumneflay about 7.aee Although beforemoonnisecouldmakeIt out distinctly. We had a splendidrun during the night, hugging the shore, with a smartbreeze and a high aea in our favor. After passIng(Jan-thsaumneBay (ho limestonehills wereverycenspicuous,antihad a strange effect by the light of the clouded mmcoon, Theywere lofty anuS white, with dark iummi(i. Noticed Slatmab

VOYAGE OF TIlE FO1~LOI1N1lOI’E, 0

roint. Passed,wIthoutobservingthem.Port GregoryartSthe mouthof (lie 1Iott ltiver. Daring the night has windshIfted once or twice, and on one occasion time Jumrymastcracked,andnearlywentover theeside. Juistafterwarisanoar(imatwas beingused for a boombroke in huui,,strikingtheewatCh on the head,knocking him Into the bottomofthe boat,and occasioninga flow of thecirculatingfluid fromtheenasalorgan.

ath—&lorohng brokeunpromIsIngly,wIth a mist sodensethatwe couldnotseethe land met the distanceof a quarterof~mnIle. Wefearedthatiii thefog we shouldpassUhmamplonefay without seeingIt, but at l~etwe recognised in whatlooked lIke acloud-banlctime high land, and,a(ter a lunacyshowerof rainhad to a greatextentclearedaway(h~mist,we were refreshetby a dellglutfel view of hotLy soul pic-turesqueranges. We wereprepared,from all we lead tusardof WesternAusiralia, to find a barren coast; but we sawThatwhetheithis partof thecoastwerelentils orotherwise,It presentedme boldamid variedscenery. Therewere lull andvalley, peakand bluff, long ranges,flat toppedhills, treesscatteredover ties upper portt~ui5of the eleve.ttotea,ar.4heatherupon the mountaInside. The effect of tiuls viewupon us,after the drearinessintl desolatl~nof this coast welied left behind,was euchantirig. Then the mist cameoverus again, obscurIng au tIme view, and leavIng onlythe dull outline of the coast. Once more It par-tially cleared,and we saw in the distanceMount Fairfaxandthe L’tanecle,wIth otherhtlls of strangeshapes, lug-ging thus eluore we passedover a shoal markedon thecluart,with fiye fathoms of water on it, and a rough sea.Shortly alter this we perceiveda green spot in thus scrab,then discovereda lent, and found that (hueverdantpatchwasa cultivation paddock. Bow welcome was ttuI~firstsign of clelllzaUou after lees miles jot wild ocean anddesertchore. The coast abler this took a sweep,and westruckfor a distantpointof landwith a reefstretchingoutfrom it. In vain endeavoringto reconcileourcoursswithlbs chart, we suddenlysaw houses,thcn IligstalTh,ship-ping. andajetty. At iast our toils, privations, and perliewereover We turned our beat (or thee jetty,arid there-gardingthebuoysto our1db, calledover the endof the reef,vu thesouth-Westside of time lbay, with soundingsat fromthreemd three-quartersto five fathoms,hill we gut regularboltom at ~Ix fathoms, whIch lasted till we nearlyreaclued th~ shore, when it ~hoaleti suddenly. Ourarrival createdgreatexcitement. It wasat first thoughtthat ours was a whaleboatfrom Port Gregory butt timecourse we steered,and the fact of our taking soundings,provedus to bestrangers. Nearly all the populationwerevu theebeachto insetus,ofcoursethInkingwe were pertof

a wreckedcrew, antI 5) willIng luau~dshelped to dregourboatott sluorur. OturStory wasajotetold,uiuul ws werelj~iedWith expressionsof kindly welcouneant oilersofa~sleIar.coantialthoughundoubtedlywe preseumtada suspiciousappear~auecm the stmtluonltics did not Irouble us with enquiriestill we had been warnedby tie lire andeomfrted wIll timegoodcheerof minehuost lI~~ton,whiove excellent hotel wecanrecounmendto travellers as one whuere they will inertWith excellent utceonumiohatloum amid lime ifioCt stuulieflattention to their ciunfort. After satisf~hngthe claImsof hunger we proceeded, aceordluug ho our severaltastes, to give ourselves time appcuraulce of ~ivili~etbeings. Iieioee the rnetumurplmttsiswee coumupletett 1mm mnyease,L was tvalteduprtme by a itumectionuurv.whuoeniumlreI if 1wasthe riegleaderof the party. 1 loolme’tI steadilyat itlun,asIf for ama explaumation,wiueuu hue modified(lie ex, ressiuniby loppingoff time first syllable.sOtdwelt upon tIme extremeImportanceofceolotu sadvugliancehue a convictcolony. featisliod hIm, however, by snowing my clearancefromCauedetiflurbjt, soul ~tlll furtttcr earsurel liv mini tuyallowing tulums to see(icr itajesty’a uncoil fir Fremanile.TIme lay continuedraIny amid cull, anti rendered doublygratefulties warmth and shelterwe haul fouru.I slIer earweary voyage. In time evening severalof us visihel the0teeiuanic~Luu~bhtute,and buriedouroeleeslot hourssrnouig(lie coionial~jut, of course,moors particularly time Adelaidejommrsls. Those who in ourown beaumlilul cIty luave beeuaccuetouneti to their mnoruuing amid eveningpaper. wilthardly appreulatetime zest witlu whIch we devjuuedseveralmnunlius news, with all their topics of iutere~l,iumcluIiuuties rice and fall of Mtni~tri~~,(hue aceilentshey thojemil lid]. thue cats.mtrophueIluat huad tsefiIteue1’,inter’s parmy,thusdeuttiusof greattorn In tiesold country,amid time uueomen—toes news fruun Aunuerica. We returned very late to ourInn, anti felt tluanklulthat thus voyige~f time Forlorn hopebat ceased. Our crew was dobumumuled. A betterlot neverpolled together. Uder l’ronlulemmce we were all muchinlebted~ior our lives to the skill and )udguommt oh JuuhutiWhite, and to hui~coolnessin times of the greatestluossibledmxmger; and we felt tIu~nkttelwe hiatt time e.sslstau)csofanotiuerDnitistu tar, .latnes [line. To my friends, Messrs.Slummilton amid ilcMhnum, who took oIuseneatiumesauut haildown our cacrse,we owned the exactnesswith syluichi weg’certalsed,tur positIon, and pursued our way To Iiudtussietance owe much ima preparing this journal, and hotheir laborsIs to (to attributed(tie accuracytiuat mustconsti-lute lIe chief values. [heose wimo were neither setumnenuuuTziavlgalorsdId their duly as Eogllslurueee,e~dmime rucollea.tiouts ofthe perils we havefmceI.amid (hue huandebuiltswe hiveenduredtogether,wtltforunatietle&tt.tnteua.uonlymtzengt.hieU.

NOTES ON WESTEIIN AUSTRALIA,

We spenta week at ChampIonBay. amid I will give tImejesuItof my obsernatlonewitluout nehcrrnce to ~ttes Theedayafter our arrival was Sunday,arid the town was ye-inurkablyquIet. There Is a small cheunch usel during timeweeknea echmumolrooun,butGenaidtonIs at presentwuthu tuta clergyman, Ihue incumhuent heavinglatelyleft. TIme ctuurchservice Is usually peniurnjedby (lee ltesideuut Magistrate,but hebeing absent,timers was no public worShip on theSuntlay we were at Grrueldton. Time bell tolled, and (hueConvictsweremarchedto (hueohurcim, but r.turuieh uuedltledand unprayedfor. I walked about this townelmip, acrossgrassy flats, and over eandheills,withu their vegetationofbushes,Including emaIl to tree, earsapanhila,time huul.mhscue,amid many oilmen slurubs. Among huille of white same] arewells of the purest water. From thee highest eandhllsI had me fine view of tIme country. Ea~iwarhwere (liePinnacle,and Mouuit Fairfax—tworemarkableIookhiug lulhlsforming landmarks for mariners at a great distance.from (Ito bay. In the distance were dark ranges, andleadingto thusmlargeplainsand tracts of tablrlaumd, appa-rently ecrubby~but reallyconepnlsingblocksof good pastoraland agulculturalsoil. Some huoldhrmge wene.pointeIout tome, but uIeey were distent and far apart. l’urning fromthis view the harbornext strikes time eyev this reefon (lieaouthm side extendingamid curving ruuumd so as to affordcompleteshelterbr vessels. No umecidemutlies everhunppeumedto aclip In (his harbor. [luring our stay a schoonerwasbuulding nearthejetty, and time laumictuinghued commencedwhen we loll. ‘lIme Sea Wmuve, by wimich we sailed forFremauetle, arrived with timber. l’tucne were anatnbvr ofbouuis auachujredaboutthe bay or dnmwn up on the beach.Time town of GeraldioncOuusl~lsofabouteuu houses,uuemrlyallof timene builtof clone. Someareexleueiveant substamutlalbuildings, this principal one beiutg Mr. Crowthmer’s stones,opposIte the jelty. In Adelabde we leave hardly anymerchant’s buildings more extensive (hun tlmeao. ‘rtmereIs a largeshone more to the eastwuurd, and two or threesmaller omuee about the town. There are two Inns—theGeraldtonHotel,kept by Mr. Iimuston, whueneyour corres-poumlentandutthiers of lime boat huarty book op theIr quarters,and ~1r.itidley’s Inn, at which time rest of thus crew of theFitnlorn 1bps found accounmnodatlon, and where theyemtjoyed mull (hue comfort they cull In mooren’ivanco] town-ships. ~Vestof the jetty Is the Coumrt-lloumse—along lowbuilding, built afterthetrueAustralian pattern arid oitpo-sIte is tImechurch, a small erection, of wimicie the style ofarchitecture Is extremely simple and unpretending. Stillfurther weal Is time Imouceof the itesidentMagistrate,acapaciousone-storieddwelling, with severalacresof lawnattached.and surroundedby, a stone wail. OIlmen privateresidencescomplete thIs partof thu town. At the back,on a high hill. is time flagsiail, from the summitof whmicIu at ntghut-timne a lanherngives a feeble light. Aquarterof a mile eastwardoI theGeraldtonhotel and thee[muisinesspuntof thelownshuip are tlue convictbuildings anttheereshulemiceof thusAesistant-Supenintemudent.All aroundire sindhllla. ‘rime climate is woumderlully healtIuy; (hue airpure ,und bracing. The juvenile poltuhallon look pluamumpand strong, thuoughfewof them areruddy. lJlphithucnla hadvisited tIme mhi~tnict,and had been Iatmml In someInstances.Time nativeslooked strung and muscular,and thmehr clean-built frames, open intelligent ooumutenancc~.and largefulleyes,were a treat to us alter seeingtIme skinmey, hllshaped,biear.eyedspeclumeensof imummuammityat Nucol itay. They area lively Joyous race. We saw the greatestnumber on‘dummulay. and theIr noilomus of Sabbath observanceseemedratbmerI’urislan thuanEnglish. All seeunedto belua happymood, laughing, singing, and even dancing. One sat onthe sumuttuit of one of the highest hills chantinghis corroboree,and beatluegtime with eticle. At a distanceweretwo going through somepecumller (erpshclioreaua per.fonmnences. Others unmet us as ttmey were indulging IamelodIesof a somewhmatmnonotonouscharacter, Of onevocalistwe beggeda translation of time duty hue had beenwarblhmmgm but alterhooltatingcoins time, lee expressedItas his mupimelonthat It wasimnmiomoibla for the aborIginesandEuropeansto rmuake thmenaselcesmutually Imatelliguble Inpoetry. ibis did not satisfyme, reunetmebeniogtime charmingtnuurmslatlons of Sir George Grey. Sommee of the blocksmike ellicientconstables,mend during our stay mat (Jeruldtonthey captured several of their couulltnymnen on acimargeof cattlestealing. I wasIn Court for a few minuleswlmlle this changewee under Invesligetion, and witsstruck whIm (lie perfect acquaintancewithu thus Enghishmlaumguageuhisplayedby therubies interpreter. Time Magie-Irate did not, in conversing wittu him, use any otlmerphraseologythan one would In talklrig to an Enelisimlaborer. I visited tIme btenmml estebhislummuentwIth the llcsh-dent Msglstnmthe,froumu wluumn I receiveda greatthaioh kind-ness,,mid unuchuval mumblelit iorumuatiuuu. lime ielonsand I heirkeepers are accorummnolatelIii a collection of cahslaumhluhSloume buildings. lYe iirct sawtIme local lunlcon, whim loflyCells ion holding three prisonerseaclu, and dark cells for

•ohltcryconllnemcnt liens I wasshownirone of differentweightsfur refractoryprisotmers. None weresuffering tlul~penaltyduring roy visit. We next examined(huegaol firImperial convicts, an extensive, lofty building, yen-tilaled by a large square opening at eachend, guarded by’ iron bans. Ties bedsteadsor bunkswere In two tiers, and (hue building formed only oneahtartment,In whielu all (hueprisonersslept—enarrangementsoutuleersallycondemnedIn theothercolonies during thereignof convictism. ‘flue imophtalwasroomy and comfort-able. ‘len on a uhuzonmiserable lookimug unenwere In it forvariouscomplaints; thusmostcommunionbeingdebility. Thiskitciemu,storee,and stableswerekept In perfectorder, ‘l’hmeolfmcens’ quuurterswere summciousand comlortable. In everydepartmentperfectnealneesandcleanlinessmet theeye. Astonewall name round the whole of the publicbuildings, andoutside,butclose to huts,wasaquarry,wheresomeprisonerswere workIng. Otimen partieswere employedon blue roadbetweenthe Ihayandthe mInes. Apanthromthe establish-ment were time house and gardenof Mr. Snowden.tImeAssistantSuperimutendent.On thus i2th I startedfor (homineswithu severalsettlers. Our road lay northward,antiparallelwihim the ehuore for soms 10 or 12 unhlee m and wetravelledover deepsand,and tluroughm serub full of flowersof nuanyvarieties,and of everyshapeand hue. ‘flue banksietreewasvery beautiful—it resemblesour honeysuckle,andeven time blossounh~of thus samoashape,cylindrical, but ofmost brilliant colours, varying from scarlet, on morecomnumeonlyemhnson,to purple. Somekinds are of a pahishpink, with longtItudlnal stripesof crimson. ‘J’housandsofbinis filled (his air wIth thuelr music. Like all thus wingedmusicIansof Aumtralla. tluelrsongswerebrief and the notesfew, but this was to a greatextent compensatedforby thus Immense number of time performers, anh thuvariety of timeir melodies, We crossed the Chapmanflee or Six miles from tIme bay ; It had very little freshwater In it. About nine miles from Champion Bay’time country begins to improve, arid after goingover a couple of miles of good grasscountry we canusto Mr. Druumnmnond’s,one ofthe earliestsettlersin thatpartof thecoloumy. ‘l’o him time district owes mmmcl, for hismanuugoment of this nativesin thee infancyof thesettle-ment. When(lucy werehostileand treacheroushue acquiredso wonderlulan ascendancyover their minds by his fear-less bearingani perfect acquaintancewIth theircustoms,habits,andchmaraoter,tlmat hue was at all times ablesingle-handedto makeanycaptureleewished,till at lastthe abori-ginesbecamerec3umdlled,or submitted to Europeautascen-dancyandoccupationof the hand. We didnot seetime etoclOon (his run,but ties homesteadwas extensiveand lookedlike thatof a prosperoussettler. Mr. Drumnmuiondculti-vatesu vineyard of some acres,and we tasteda soundfull.bodied wine, mate from the Shmlraz, that whenmature, cviii be excellent. Alter leaving (his etatiomewe vialted a young vineyard several mulemi furthernorth, in a sandy hill, whucre (he prospect ofhaving healthmy vines, or a large yield of grapes, ap-pearedto me very small Wenextsawma coppermine of Mr.Drumnunond’s,from which we took a flas specimenof blackone. Therewerea I~wmen wonkimug at this muelne,and Itlooked very promisIng. We crossedtime lhowesItiver by anexcellentbridge. ‘l’hme waterwas low, and the river. lIkemoat In that part of thus colony,was simply me chain ofponds. We went through a number of crocks during theday,and In (he eveningstoppedat Floskine’e iletel, cen-trally situatedin this ;nlning district. Time fohloeving morn-Ing, underthe guidance of Dr. Elliot, I visited the WlmealFortuneIllume. wherewe met CaptainPenberthmy,who weesucceedingin turning outsomeveryfine ore, ‘rime cruslmlumgmumaciminewasat work. TIme waterwas not sotroublesoummeasat runnyofour mInes,andtime facilities Ion drainageadmirable.‘this is theleadingmine ot the district ,andis being wontedby an Englisiu Company. Someof this ore Is of highquality, exceeding411 percent., end has realized £35 perton at Swansea. At the Yanganokawe obtained:speci-m ne of grey and peacockone, and observedthe operationsthuatwerebeingcarried o;e witim everyproepeet01 succeSs.Thee (Iwala to the eoutht.esetof time \V’tmeuml Fortunewastunningout goodblack ore end (ht~,with visiting two orthreeabandonedelicIts, counpicted onr Inspectionof (hueminesIn tIns pintof lime district, Judgingirmun whuat I saw,I believe limit tIme couuutryto thus north mimid maortli—east ofCimmiunluiemi hay wouli provericlu In payingmimics weretimerscmalital fount] to work theeun; bmut (heroart reilly no 0mph-talists In tVeetern Austruhia. ‘rwo or (hires tlmoumsaumdIsguaeralhy abumut nil that can be raiced to work a umamne.amid often far beam then If (lu no he not smmliicirnt0cc rmmhvel to curryon time expenses,time mimic is nu’ceesarmlyaltammdoumm’uI, I doubt if an nutmctm umuoucey has h,eeme spent unall time unimueshum lime distrIct 1 visited astIme New ttornwallAseociatiunhareexpendedhum timeir openatioums. Copper hetime iurimmchpal nmhmueralhum thatpantof Western Australia, bmutthereareqtuuulillesof ivad bum someof the ahumils. Malleable

NOTES ON WESTERN AUSTRALIA.

copperhiss lately beenuhlscoyeremlon the surface over a con-sIderablepIece ofcountry nearthus Irvin, amid them]lu~u~ivererhastumken out a lease oh severalImunIrel acru’s Neumuly allthe minIng country I pesseil over was cxceltcnihy grassed,someof it suhiablefor wheat. Timere wasa gushdeil of tImepoison plant, but prIncipally on palehesof stony gromund,mend abouttime higherhills. i’hme sheephal to Ictemidet cluesto keep Ibuem froun it. lime shucepare lungea;udboug-woohleu],butscarcelya flock ceo befounuh wholly fn.’e from scab. limesqmualtersresorta good deal to local dressings,and a lochI sawweredaubeul and spottedaboutasIf with (hueIhea ofchecking to some extent this progress of thus hlsea.se,Irmsteumd of curing it. The settlers almost universallyseetheenecessityfor a Scab Act. ‘t’ime cotummtny I travelledover was thus hhghm lamed I hat seem, hroun this boat,mend it dud not appear so will and picturesqueas whenvIewed from (ha sea. After leavimmg tIme plaIn, evilascenuhed imy a successionof elopes bill we reacbmetla considerable ebovatI~n,and thmen steep bluffs roseup apparcmmtly from 100 to 250 feet above tea. ‘limetimber he sunull— in and about time belaof creeks,sb;uuuteu]gum—eleewluere,this timbercomesietedprimicipally oh dihl’uurm’mutsuedesof wattle. ‘thereareteuiriues.aumdaumothuerevoot limitweshould describensaspeciesof heatree,bul wImuit ia lucrecalled ironbark, Among the shrubs and pluirule werehibiscus, sarsumpanilla, and tIme Stunt pea. ‘this grass issiunilar ho thatin ourhilly com;ntry, and tIme nuums appeartobu umuderatocked. lime rocks are priorly thy gnammiie amiulironstone. ‘I’m tluo souuhlm of Geruhultoum,meluout 12 nIle, mils—tint, are tIme Grm’noughm Fist,, runumimugalongthis river ol timatnme;uie,whereabout3o,0uoacresof rich a.~niealturalland areundercuttleahion, I regretthat I had mutttimne to visit thm’mtpartof the country. Thu Chiuunpirmn flay di~hrIctIs con-sideredthepick of WesternAumtrehia. It wasopoke;eof inhhghmtermsby Sir GeergeGrey, bat bets reports werecon.traulicted For thelastsevenoreight yearswi lumen eec ivi’ilrepeated(estlunonyto thee accuracyof tile descrlph’mtneof timeIan] hue explored,and the settlementof Ctmamnpmon flay hasafforded, perhaps, thus most re;nmrkmibulo ins’auece of hutstrutimfutneesamid sound judgment bmnoimim~ been recognisedafteryearsof misrepreeeiu;ation. I looked In at tIme Court-Ibouaeat Gevumlu,where jushice was administeredIn melnauenerthatleft suitorsno reasonto complain of time lute’sdelays. lbetwcenIS and60 cast’s, civil anI criminal, weredloputecdof beteveen10a.m. and 3 pm. Tie lock.uup witssrtmuell, and scarcelyequal to thue requirementsob time district.In the evening I went with nearly mmli thin Magis-tracy of this district to (hue elation of Mr.Ilugess, a J.l’. and leadIng aehther, whose Imome-stead is prettily situated on time Ilowes Sliver.‘J.’hmere wasabummidanceol water; thee coummtryuntaIntedandwell-grassed largepaichmm’e of wattleswere epniutkledoverClue slopes,antI at a ehiontdistancewererangesof Imills. ‘lieshuounc was large and roomy ; all thus buildings, includingbarn, elable, huts, Ice., were well-built, and well arrnmigedlargecuihivation puaddocksstretchedawaylndifferentdirec-tIons. A flour ueeill worked by six horseswashim operation.In the stables I was simown amhmonoumghibredhorse,puiw’rfal,sleort in theebarrel, and withm splendidlegsunderhIm. Sounegood mareswereaboutthe yards. ‘11mm wholeestablishmentlookel very muohlike tIme imome.ehathouaof oumeof our peos.peroussquatters. hereweotayeuI for a night.and takingheaveof ourkind hostome (hueunornlngof thee t4tlm, retumrnedto Geraldtonby a somewhat different route, (ravellingnearer to the sea, keeping the White Peumk onour left, and passing close to the hut and paddockthatgladdenedour eyes on time morning we couudltm~ledourweary boat voyage. At a springon thus road we met Mr.\‘omm ihihura, tIme only settler on time Manchisome,whmo Is masuccessfulbreederof horsesfor lIme Indiamu mnarket. lie hadwith hmlun a supply of ales arid optnihs, of wlmlebm huehospitably Invited us to partake. tlav~ng, luring theemornimtg.lund theprinciplesmu thus l’enmuissiveL

mquor Low,

exm,omumdedto us at greatlemigtl~by an tunableenthusiastweavailed ourselvesofItspruuelsious. Iteaciming ttme limp mileIn Lime afternoonwe foummi thugtImeSeathird,a tlummberbarge,was to sail In time evenIng for F’re;nanthe. Five of limeForlorn hope crew collected, heaving behind Messrs.Itumilton aaul hake,who Intendedfollowing for sometime,thuoarocallonof photogrepbists,and went on boau’ui about10 p.m. lucre being no winul we lay at anchorall night, tacking slowly out of thee buy next morumimug,and so left Chanepion Bay wlthu Its pluaoantrecollections, and (lie brIendshmlps we hued iurmelduringour short sojourn. TIme millers were frank,hmos’pitabie, genial, aboundingIn all those virtues limit lindtheir hIghueat~developmentIn young or struggling settle-ments.

Oma lIme icthu,wa puessedhow coast,and In time evenIng,raninto a small bay,Justpast thee moumiti of tIme Irwin, wherewe were sheltered Udmind hsm’nuldabhs reefsamid breakers.‘J’Imere was a landmnumrk eneched0mm mm hill at this bay. Igalnm’d muchu lnfumrmmhionat Geraldtsn end on thIs veseelrespcctlmmg time oomet we lieu! passedin our boat. flueSkipper. Mr. 00011cr. hued cotnunamided lIme Flyimug lt’oaims,that canneltime exploulng party under Dr. Ilattin. to timeGlendg andohlmerplaces,ant knewaluuoCt every loot of timeCoaSt. We learnt that there were umo settlers whhbinhuurhy on fifty umhlm~s of Nicol limp, time sethleumuentbehmmg at lien Talu Itarbor, near Depuchu leimmud.

11Therewasme pissagebetweenI)hrk blarIng’s bunt ant timerumumin hani afact we were mmuiauvumro of, it huet;gmtuarl.el mmtieschartasFmmleo Erelrance. 0mm mIme muai;u Intl mt Shirk’sII.my we shuoumi I imave IuummmI a lumrty ci eellug guamut amidthereevesa slumatter’s stallome Id mg brimmed stoic hislimumecImelamil. I foul miso that thou meallve~ n thm,mt coiut tiersexe’eiiuugly cummmmii op amid drmngenoous. At Ni ui Ibay cmi otisoccasion,timinklug the whit’s were numanmned,himey coma-voroh lo mnaks ttmemn heed thu wuey item; arocky u]e’’mat,imitemehing pitiably to throw tomues afterthem. Time ~lgimtof a brace of pistols, however, had a lmmp~uyelfect, emil.au]optimmg time bethnr partof vu mc, timey mmccci,’] I heIr whitevisitors dowuetIme hull. /et ExmouthmGulf they atlarkt’d ahuarly, immdluhing tIn. Cooler and samoa millers,woundlog tIme formueer. cmi] it isis umeeessary tohire on thurta reiueumtedly wi;hu effect before IlmeyIlel, We html a long pie-ego to Freinumitle, arid‘lid not sIght liutteimest IslunI till 1.20 p mu, on tIme 20th.It hookedhoe’ mmmd serumluby as wealuprui.ieliu’u], bull I smiler—atant Omit ore time vile nearest thee numi tmlauid It is pretilenlooking an] mmmcccfertile. ‘flume is a Governor’s null, ticslucre, but aswe 1mausu’dlie time lark we huh not seeit. Al hertaekiuugaboutall miigimt, we amicteuredmt d,ewum close (a limet’m’cutumtml he betly. ‘liters were abitt hO mccli craft, primm —

cipci iy cutters,miner the shore. Furl lien omit evensa him1as

aol mc brig. A vast number oh bo.mle of every size a,m’Ishape,ammulevery varietyuf rig, wereammcimorelorhmnulei upon this iueaelm. iucammctmm;ugtime i”onhsrtm 11010, we imilcel totime jetty, landed,emil accorihug tm a reques(that thou pro-per amuhimority aftenevuiruls assumrm’uh us was maulsu;u]er me unlsmpprehme;meion—it being suiup.med wewera a slmipwrecke,i creiv—pnoceeuied to to givesome aceoumitof ourselvesit (hue (‘ol icr 0111cc. We I tiemuwu’nt to uniume host tUcks’s, a lunge well-furnl’imcdhotel, wherewe nestel b’iore surveyimmg (tietoen. i’m-meutl’ is coummpact, withu g ,uu.l ‘.subeh~imthaI buhldhmm.~s,WI; Im—omit mucuict’ pre;e;msiumeto mcccli Icetural beauty. 1 lie l~’0ph~seemmuu]readh’ullynilictel to stucco. Ole crises at aglmumcelimit time bestbuildings Iueloumg to time Gonermmmume’ut,ammd iretIme result of imuperialexpcndi;umre. lIme town he Iuuimmlulhyqualc’t. andtimers alupearsices bustle titan in tVallmnoo or(Jumwlcr. heVim uun~lure a mmummmb’r of fro’nd~of Al’lmhIepeople,mcho weleummed us hmmitrlily. ani eagerly protI redmore kindness tItan we could Imave availed ourselvesof 1mm far mumore I lie titan limit mucaapleh by our stay InFrenu,’uuihle and 1’,ruhu. i’ertlu he distamet Iromme Fre—ruemntle 12 miles, mated a steamier nuuee to and fromcacti placo twiec ‘a lay. A. lxmailcmrt umlso truevm’ls ho eachben, mnornluu’ganulmmflernoon. We took time scconleteaumucr,suetemujuym’uI time trip up this river veryummuchu. lucre wireecrubbyhills oecosiomahly,but large timhi”r appecrt’ul abouttue II cue,gullies, mmml iii sites. Ii crc cud tImers w re hteeltyclearings and neat cotlucgee. In one place, on a ep texcavatedtrorn tIme lmiIlsi Ic, an] close to tIme waler’s ,u] p.,wereeeverumlbuilhmug~honunlngasmall convictdepot. Ab mathalfway from Fretumaumhiethe Swan takes a sumilen hOrnto tIme rIght, and fromum this point we hada full view oftime blue hills of thus D.mrhimmg ltuiumge. lucre Is roller Ionmu lu meuih’srmmmity of height ummul general ahi’earenceabuttlmus range, hut it is ethli a plezuuiuugfeature In time laud’soupe, Aflen tue bend 1mm time river. I Its seemuerygame—rally Improves, aol we pass greemm p.cIdocks. hmuuuss hyhmigback In the wool, or ulorumtmug Ihue clean mm gs picluresiushills ammul rocky hjammks, till we reu~tmL’crtlm, a well tutautumu’l,cleanlittle town, atuninablyeiiumtei on rising groammul0mm bitebank of thus river, liens befuure landimtg, I mmeet and wascordially wclcouiunil by a weIl-kuowtm Souhli Aashrallen(tin. George Leak’), nov S,licll’r’Geueeral sri PollenMagistrate, hIeing immtruuduceulton l’osl-OtTuce olilcial In thestreet! Imendelto thin thin mnall froun Canm,Icnilartuor. itconebalmmcd ‘luplic.mt os of dospalclmeettmat tiuub bu’emu semI by avesselthat luau not arrive] at 1’remouemmthe at time hI mmcc ofney departumre for lime S,uummul. (Sun anneal ncceuesariiycreated great cxcltemmuent In l’enthm tbmo cammtiimue’l ladness lormu Cmmemde;e Ihenb’ur, auuui tIm’, ec.ercu’li’ ler~dis-astrous lubell Igeumeum Irumn Auhaun hay. tugcthet iv lilathis details of our exlraorhinary and almost melmeculoumeeeea;ue from ltumt place of hmurrors, wuulut nu’c”e—eurily from aheorluieg topics of eomivereaulon. Autamnflay and I bus t’onlormm hlope Ii lied tIme lembui~Jiurmmuileamid were in tIme mumoutlue oh everybudy. I hun] lie buoumuur ofwaiting en I hue (iteenmeur,wimo reedeel mu,’ kimmdlv, amid tookthuS unoatlively iuulom’estho lIt pruspecieof tar muewcuemm; ry.TImeunustImemporlantwork of tIme (Joeernmucuitaa’l pu’ple of\Veutcrma Auetraiha rues.s’ le the scttlcmiuemtt ol their odenorthuenuet’rritory. ha title thy are now likely tm be sue—cessiul. ‘I’lie country at htoehuckIbay, thought ihab, lealeawumy overme vast exhemit of god picture hub hmghmerland.lime simeepumaudother stuck hhm,’re are loohmimmg well. mtt lien‘l’sin ilmere Is gout pauturelamed,hunt It appearsvery lmuteuiIn extent, I mutt tIn, tialIlumnd ilrown, tImegreateahilonirofthiuut coluuy, Irummu whmo mm and lromn tIe, Kennelhi, Ilruwmm Iobtaineda lund oh halorunation respechingthis the eel Aus-tralian coast,anul hIm’ cuuemmtry goingbuck fro;n It.

itanublhng umbout Perth, mmo,I .‘mmjoylug time lmsphtuhihy ofIts cii izu’ume, mvo 1,1 haveoccmmp1mb a mmmaclm louger lime I banI hued at rump diepus ml. The lawn Iuuk~so .1111 mimat timewondersImuw hIm,’ hmImabitauuI~eimm~uleytlmetmtselvas. I seldumiemmuihicd evm’imucle in the ~tri’t, endouuly omice saw any oute 0mmhmoreebumck,mini lie was amailmmuanm. Themeare eumuctolerable

12 NOTES ON WESTERN AUSTRALIA.

largebuildings,butnonethatattractedmuchattentionexcept(,‘overnmenthbouse—alolty buIlding faced wIth brIck and!eltim stonedreasings, llavlmmgbeggedprolesslonellnformmt-tiun, I am able to describeit asbeing ornamented withtowersin the doneestleTudorstyle,the angleturretsbeingEhlzatmettmaui. TIme Governmentemceewerea mnoulestImita-tion of our old three-sidedblock oh erectIonsin VIctoria-square. There areone or two neat booking churchesandcluapels. The great dihlleeelty in buhbdimmg at Perth isthat there is no good stone withmin a reasonabledialanee. There is notimlng strIkIng about the placesof business. Ladles will be dletressed to hear timatthere Is no draper’s shop either at I’enthor bi’reunantle;tuohhuing but (hose arrangementscelled general stares,!vhmenecurrantsaresold at one Counterand crinoline at (heother. I went to the I’olice Court, where Justice wasadminIstered with promptitude, There were no peoplepresentbut witnesses,convicts, prIsoners,ant! pollee. esomnorbld curIosIty draeve an euullence to that temple ofjustice; no feelingof levity inducesIdle p~opIeto considerIt a legitimate place of entertaInment. J he ollenceswerefew, and forthemostpart trIflIng. Alt the offenderswerecon-I’lcts; one was remandedon achangeof having theeelothmesof somefellow-sInner in his possession;two or threewerefined for being drunk; andanother was sentencedto threecounthue’ imprisomementasmsrogueandavagabond.Ttmecharge~heet for blue precedingthreemonthslundbeenvery light, themostseriouscasebeingthat of amen whmo wassentencedto10 years’imprisonmentfor forgery This genIus was poe-sessedof considerableenergy and de(ermlnatlon,and soonaftenwu,rdeescaped.and wasdIscoveredwith bungmmrs’ toolsin isis poaseshon,when he was sentencedto an additionalthureemontha’ imprIsonment,anti tie lashue~.He wasnexthoundwith a knIfe orJogger,with whuhoheheemeterhahuedthepious intenhlonof’ removingtime t’obics Magistratefrom theesceneof his earthly toils and anxieties,and wasaceorutinglytewarded with yet another threeyears’ accommodationat Government expense, and another 100 lashes. Ilead lueard a good deal of the Innocenceof the convictpopulahion, but the appearance and expression ofcountenanceof (hoseI saw at Court did not prepossessmace in (heir favor. I head scarcelyleIsure to decide uuontheirmerits on ptmrenologioel~nIncipIes,but Lmcvaterwouldcertainly have dealt wimhe them in the moat summarymanner. Before heavingI’entlm I returnedto Fremantleandvisited Ihe greatgaol ofthecolony, overwhich Mr. Lefroy,thue SuperIntendentof Convicts,kIndly showedme. It is acapaciousand lofty buIlding, capableof holding 1,200prh-saners; but thereareseldom4uu5 in it at once. It is four—storied,or has four then~of cells,intosomeof which I en-tered Eachprlscnerhad ml separateapartment;and (lucrewere dark cells for (he refreohory mend those sentencedto eohltaryconhlnemen.I wentinto theekitchen; dinner-tImewasapproaching,and the allowanceof food wasample.

Therewasexcellentsoup,goodand whobe~omebread,andSnabundantsupplyof butchers’ meet. Such is a partoftbme tre itmentfor seriousoffencee. This convIcts areneverII uggedfor lazIness,and the amountof work they performin all partsoh thecolony Is ab~olutelyinslgnlhlcant in pro~portionto their numbers. I sawthe prisonersdrawnupinranke,tobesearchedfor forbld,lenarticles thIs performanceisgonetherou~hfour times a dayin winter, andoftenerinsummer: They were ranged with military precIsionandexactness;and looking along one of the lInes, I had (hegrathilcatmon of viewing all theIr facesat aglance. Havinglmeard so mach of (lee Swan RIver oonvlcts, I obuervedthis interestinghandwIth someattention, Most of themweredressedin cloihuesof ttmeplainestmaterial,ornamentedin variousphaoeewills theeverlastingbroadarrow, Some,asa rewardof peraomeal merIt,were distinguishedfrom theIrcomradesby pumrtlooloredgarments,and were *heo adornedwithm chainsand aunuhe(soi the very brighteststeel. Thesedecorationswere fastenedabouttheir andesand held upwIth one hand, and however onmmammeenhah, were, tocity the least, somewhat cumbrous, To assert thatthese favored Individuals bore their hom’ors meeklywould be to fall short of the truth m someappearedsubduedand overpoweredby the weight of the dietlnctiousbestowedupon them. But there were otherswho hardly seemedgrateful for what ttuey probably felt they had so fullyearned; theyratherremIndedoneof merltorloueIndivIdualsin other departmentsof the State,who havececeivedtootardya recognitionof their services. and why at last winprelermnentthuat was as welt deserved,and neigletas fitlyleavebeengrantedlong yearsbefore.

I huad heardmuchofconvict harmlessness,apt wIthoutatpresentgiving a decidedopInionon the subject,I wIll saytbmat all (h,ss gentlemen ltad ties peculiar expressionofCountenanceobeenvathein all who, In the interestsof (helmcountry, leav, sufferedan abridgementof their personalliberty—an expression seldom lost, even after yearsoffreedomand prosperliy, Tocompletemy acquaintancewiththe “domestIcinstitution,” I vIsIted the Hospital, I un-derstoodthuat indigestIonand thee disordersarIsing there-from werethemostcommoncomnplahuete, Confinementpro.elncedIn men oI acilve hmablt of minda derangementoh thedigestIveorgans In one bed wasa warder, who had beenstabbed,of courseInn fit of playfulness,by ale InoffensIvecrealutewhim tIme Governmentbrand,

After an extensiveand careful surveyof the fa~orlte

institutionof We~ternAustralIa I tool~my departure.a’5m~Cultivated an ac~uaIntanoswith time free populatIon 01’Ju’reman(le; and although it may becon~ldenedgreatpre-judice on my part, I tlmoughit timeir society moredesIrablethan that of (tue people who’ had arrived at Imperial ex-pense,ant! on WesternAuslrmehlan invitation,

‘lime day after my arrival at I’erth t drove with somefriendsto Gerlldford, about 12 miles dl~tant.Just outsidethe cIty W5 Crossed the Swan over a welt-con-structed bridge. Like all Australian rivers, theeSwan is liable to tremendous floods, and at tlme~rises much over its apparentmend usual Ilunite. Leavingthe river, we (ravelledoverarcexcellentroad,in someplacespluSukemi, thmrougum forestsof mahoganyaid ret!gum, andgreatnumbersofsaplings. Tlmere wero vast quantItiesofthemoatbeautifulwild flowers,among(hem blue creepertparticularlyattractedour notice. The banksla wasnot imtbloomIn this pnrt of tIme country. Thereweremammy hand-sometreesof whalch I forget the names, A tree cabled theeInonhank was very much like our teatree. A, prevailingfeature In thie part of the country was the black—boy, a plant something like our grasetree, antiwhat is in that colony called (he ground blackboy,havingthe root anti blade of thetrueblankboy,butnot theblack gnarled stem. Almost all (he land beaning (lmi~IaConsideredby thecoloniststo beworthless,but yet if it Iccleanedthe grassgrows, and patchesof it havebeenculti-vated whIle success. ‘rime expenseof eradicatingthis weedSluomihul not preventthecultivation of the land, for it wouldnot coetmore to clearanacneof thuat ground than an acreof Ihuewattle countryabout partsol’ the Onkaparinga. Wesaw pauidocks growing good crops, and land adjacent,or exactly similar quality, is lying waste, Some oftime soil was cold and hungry.looklng, Somefarmers hauldraInedtheirground. Along thus flats of theSwanand theOksgeeCreek was a great deal of land of the very bestquality. As we travelledalong, the landscapewaslovelywe had frequentvIewsof the river; therewerehIll and dale~finestately timber, long reachesof water, and trees withdensefoliage overhangingthe banks;long fiats,stretchecofundulatingparkhlka scenery,and in the distance the binsrangeof the Darling. We found Guildford a pretty town-ship, wlthm a number of cottages and buIldings oh amore pretentIous kind, anti a neat little churcim. lienswe called on Dr. ‘eVaylen, whose grounds areon (he river, Thus Doctor head are excellent vine-yard, kept in admirable order. ‘t’he soil wasme red clay.We vIsited the cellars, and tasteda wine (luatwas calledI~on(ainebheau,but appearedto be allungundy, falhbodled,anti ofexoellentflavor; and a lIght fruity wins that pro-misedwell. After leaving(lullulford we drove thureeorfourmiles to (he estateof Mr. Broekman,at [lemmasHill, wherewe founda hospitableshelter for hissnight. Thefollowingmorning we walkedover part of the grounds,Includinganextensivegarden,with a plantationof stronghealthmyvines.Citrone anti lemons were flourishing, bananaswerethriving; and (he orange grew well, but, as in SouthAue(ralla, required irrigation, There was farmingground of’ (hue best deecriptioie—’extenslveriver flats,onea mime In length. TherisIng ground on the oppositeside oh the river looked very beautifuL itelurning,wsgatheredImmensequantitIesof wild flowers. About theriver were largedocksot ducks,and crossingthe road werenumbersof a kindof cranethat,! understand,huesonlyap-pearedof lateyears. ‘l’he tlms passedswiftly awayat Perthand Fremantletill the 26th, when we started at about1p.m.by themallcartfor (heSound. A numberof our kindriendssawus oil’. I leavenot thougimt it desirableto fraunethis Journalafter themodelof “Sunny Memories,”but wIllcontentmysehiwith gratefully acknowledgin.gthaI I expe-riencedIn I’ertle and Fremantleasmuchkindnessasdoubt!by any posulbilily havebeen compressedinto the spaceoftime elapsingbetweenthe periodsof my arrivalamid ihepar.-tune. All thus members01 theboat party who had corns(0Fremantlestartedby the same conveyance,whmichm was acommonspring-cart dmawnby threeimorsesin a line. AnImmensequen(Ityof luggagewae piled up andcrammedIntothe vehIcle, rendering It diihiault for us to wedgeourselvesin. A trooperaccompaniedusas guard,and was relievedat certaIn stagee. Time road from l’erthm to the Sound runeabout tjS,E. We crossedat the Swan,anti after amile ortwo got into amahoganycountry, lice soil very worthless—sandy or gravelly. We reached,after 18 mIles drivingand walkIng. a small andvery reshiolooking pubhic-bou~salittle after dark, where we imbibed a ,hllaInou~mixturecalled “beat stout,” evidently some abonmimmatlon com-poundedin this colony. Two miheebeyondtub inn wecameto aneatlug-Jeouse,where ample andsatIsfactoryprepara-tionshued beenmuadefor ourarrival. After lying down foran hourweroseand pursuedourway, walkinga greatpartof the distance. We passedthrough grand forests of ma-hoganyanddwarf gummu. The former hasa barkvery rumuchlIke theestnlngybark,and, hika timat tree. Is mostcommonlyfound on poor stony soIls. We crossedover a number ofCreeks and smali streams. A. great quantity of rain lollduring the nIght.

Our method of travellIng was to stop four or fivetimes during(bus 24 teour, from an hour aumd me half to twohours at eachhmelthng place for the purposeof eating andaleeplng, ~nd resting (its horses. We stayed at settlers’

NOTES ON WESTERN AUSTRALIA.

teats,at pohl~eslathons,eatlngleotuses,couvl~t~’depots,andsometImescampedIn thebuah, We found ourown refreeh-iuaents,exceptatoneortwo eathnghousee.

27th—heavyrain till after midday. Travelledthuromughiforestsof mahoganyandgnarledgum. Thecountryall hillyand worthuless,even for pasture. ‘l’tucre was abuumdanesofgranite. We passedmanycreeksand swaunps. Noticed anumberofconvictsprofessingto be at work on time road.Evcmmhngsetin witim a youumgmoonand a brIght stmurllglmt.Theenjoymentoftravellingamongdarkhills thuosealongthevalleysfull of underwood,and throughgrandand gb.uomyforests,was eomewleatalloyed by thus feelingof oxceselvecold. Wefound it necessaryto walk moat of (he way tokeep our feetfrom freeclng.

2~(h.—ThismornIngour beardswere coveredwith Ice orfrost, quite hard, antS as whiteassnow. 1 denssay, to anobserver,oursppearerecewould havebeenpicturesque butcomInghresbefrom thea trop!cs, vur sensatIonswere not ofthe mostpleasingkind. Started a numberof kangaroos.Derring theforenoon,aboutOil miles from Perth,time countryohauged, and we travelled thuroughe good grazing andagricultural land,broken occasionallyby patchesof sand.Ten milesfanthuer,wecameto time Wlhllauuea—anice stream,wttte cultivationpaddockealongIt. We stoppedeta farm-house to reel and changehorsesfor (hue ilrst tIme, end Ifnspectedtheecrops. 1 wan told that they tuad excellentd’lelis of whmeat at thIs farm,exceeding25 bushelsper acre.Leaving tIme ~VIllinois, we passedthrough good and badcountryalternately,mucim of It beingexcellent wheatland,end a greatdeal fliers well adaptedfor pasture. A. shortdistancesouthof the Arthur werea few email fanmhousee,~t oneof which we stopped. lore I understood(tue crimpsof wheatwereabundant. We crossedthe ileauford River~nd Plainsat nIght, mend could seeby the moonlightthatwewere In grassycumuntry. Daring (lee night we changeddorses again, at a place called lCuuJunup. We took (heprecas(ienof takingoff ourbootsand wrappIngour feet Inblankets; and so, with ballIng twice, passedthrough thenigImI pretty well. Ice on thepuddles.

29th—SaWgood country to-day. ldankslaeand wattlesabounded,and therewereforestsof redgum. The redgum‘head a verydifferentappearancefrom(hatof SouthAustrahl~,leavinga very roughand dank-coloredbark. Like all largestraight-stemmedgums, It is a certaIn sign of good land.hundredsof kangaroo,crossedtime road during the day.Changedhorsesfor thuslast tIme. Frostand Ice at night,

lOth,—lbreakbaatedala convIcts’ fire. Most of the gangwereyoungomen. Theyhad no guardover them,andcould,of course,work orplay aa they liked ; buttime presenceof anoverseerwould not make much difference In that respect.lyre I wihneeaedmanluecidentthatmademore Impressionomimy mInd thanall the chaInsand broadarrowsI hind seen.We weresomedistanceIrons theroad, eating,or warmingourselvesby thue fire, whena manpassing9ulethy along washailedwIth the enquIry “Who areyou?’ The reply wasthat hewaslookingfor someone from whom he expectedwork. “Come and let ma havea look at you,” saId thetrooper. The[raveller obeyed,wasquestioned,and allowed‘to passon. WesternAustralianswouldtheinkthis atrifle. butitwould gIvestrangerstheuncomfortablefeeling ot beflg inun open-airgaol. ‘eVe got Into worthlesscountryOnly inthemorning. During theforenoonsaw thehills about theSound. l’asseulbetweenMoumit Barker on our right aridsomepicturesquehills on our left. About midday stoppedat a streamor chmetn of ponds, where we enjoyed a slightsheep We were all dreadfully knockedup with Incessanttravelling and want of repose. The ImpressionsI hadformed of time countrywe imad passedover were that forthe first so miles frooa Perth time land was worth-less. Then we came Into good country, and fo,about 125 mIles (hmree~fifths or two-thirds of theland was ufeful—some for agricultural, and more forVaeboral purposes. Moatof thee good land I sawwaslyingwaste;the last 40 miles beforereachIngAlbanywasquitewor(hlees I gathered on the Journey specimens ofthree different species of the poison plant, whIchI believe can now be seen In thee Museum. Theywere called respectively (he box, the heartleatand (he common poison. All were about equallypoisonous. 1 learnt that theeeffect upon sheepis suddenand peculiar. They startrunningat (heir utmoatspeed,andmelter goingfor somedistance stop for a short (Ims, andthen again rush away lull they drop dead, It Is saidthai, the kangarootribe eat the plant wIth ImpunIty, butthat If a dogeatsthe entrailsof a rat or wallaby (hat hasledon time páisonthe effect is fatal, and shownin theeearnsmannerasIn the case of the elmeep, by the poIsoned dogrunningtIll It dropsdead. How far these statementsas’sCorrectI cannotsay; but timers Is no doubt of the deadlyeffectof theshuruebupon slueepand cattle. horace seldomeat it, amid all stockprefertheyoungleaves. It grows mostpleeetiltully on the badand scrubby oountmy. Iui good handit is found principally in smallpatchesof stony ground andInferIor soil. Aboutseventreblest’nooi (lee Soundwe camsto a good macadanaizedroad thatlasted for five miles,whuenWe got Into sand. Soon we sawtime ometekirteof thetown, Time hmonseshad bolted on tIme maoacdamlzsulroad,andupon enteringAlbany, lrnltalcd by the injudicious ap-phmcatlon of the whip, they repeatedthe performance.ileerewu no rQomfor a straight run,antis smashacemed

inevItable, whenthe driver askeda passengerto take lbsrelumsof tIme stumeft luorse,and he pulling at the leaders,thatwere hearmeessedabreast,thma leans were brought u~m, Wencxtstrucka gate,and immediately aflerwarulejamunhngawheel against thee cornerof a beildlng, oonhh.leumcsin tii~guidance@1 our coachmanwasso far sluikemu ttmal we lehtthe cart, menu! walked up a narrowlanetoStrlokland’~Ilolel,where we led, and thuemi slept for 14 hours.

We stayedat thee Soundfor me week, anti I may as wellsummariesmy observatlon~upon Albany anti Its vicinity.I walked severaltimes to the smenaunitof lt&ount Claremmcs,and enjoyeda magnificentview of Ilea hay, time shilupinc’,thee islands, and thus smerroundlngcountry. To the norththe hand is undulating, with a prouninent cievatioshereand there, SurromurediogthIs lower landarehighdarkranges,witlm peaked, coniøal, and irregular louking imhilO.On the way to theesemmltorMount cLarenceIs (huerock onWhich

1Lyrestoodandoverbookedthe Sountlwhenhushedcone-

~leted thmm awfuljourneyalongtheuoas’t,FroumethulsrocktheblockWyhiecooeyedto his countrymenbeforetluey rushedupin transportsohjoyat hiodlngonswhomthey hadlonglookedupon aslost. PoorWylie hues been dead [en years. Thisnativestalk abouthIm freely, but I coulul find none wlmorememberedl!yre. A mile or two from Mount ClarenceIs(he residenceof Mr. Mulwaruh Spencer, sItuated prettilyamongthehubs,Is a forestof red gnarledgum, wIlls sonabauth cowersall around, lies’s were gardens,drmmlmeed cmiiicultivated,and looking very well. Beyond thul~is French-mamm’s Bay. with a nice teachrunning round It. Scrubsurreundsthe Soundantthis flay, an! aboundsIn wIlm.tflowers,Includingthusbankelap. Timenewere two vesselsin [ticbaarhmor,witim cotis —thee barqmesBeatrIceand the shipRock.bight, [hint has obtaineda disagreeablenotoriety from themutiny amid consequentOteootlumgof oneof the sailors. Theitochuliglut was a ru.,sgnlgcent vessel of upwards ofi,sea tone burden I walked over the coat detmot.Thegroundwasfloored with slag, and thecoalwas kept instacksby walls of tImeearns ruauierle4. t visIted lImo nativescheocul,somedistanceback from time town. Mr. and Mrs.Camhield managethute humansInstitutIon,arid gave Mr.Mcllian andmyselfm~cImimuteresting inhormathonre~pect-Ing the children at thIs eetablislumeumt, and thusmeatives ittgeneral. tlahf (hepupils were laid up wilh influenza,antiwe saw no less than 20 black, half-caste,amid quaminoomejuveniles,with oneortwo Europeanolelldren,whoseparentshad desertedtimena. A married half-castewoman wasassistingIn thus Instruction of (ho schuolars. ‘eVe heard aclassof boys, apparentlyfrom 5 to 12 yearsof age, read,They went throughu the exercisewith greatdeliberation.Someof’ them spelt some long words correctly, smut!a blackgirl, of ebomelII yearsof age,readfrom the New Testamentwith great fluency. The speciumemesof their handwritingwere remark.bly good. LeavIng the selmool we walked tosomewunleys, where we mentioned the Institution to tImenatives Oneof them, in replyto anobservation,pointedto a half-castewoman who had eviulentiy relapsedIntoaborIginalhabits,anul saiui “yes, that’s a scheoiwoman.”TheGovernmentResIdent,Sir AlexanderCampbell,showedme theconvIct depot;it was arkangedon the sameprin-ciples astIme otherprovIncialdelmotO. A numberof prisonerswereat work aboutthetown,mendingotherpeople’sways.If nottheirown. TheGaol occupiesa commandingpositionon the hIll, overlookingtImebay and most of the town, asthoughtheecItizenswereratherproud of[hue institution. itdoesnot,however,give one theideaof a prison, hut looksratherlike a country residenos. Albany containsfrom30to 400 tahabltante. It is straggling,but thee houses lookneat and most of them are very white. Strut’khand’sHotel Is about (he most couephriuoetObuututog ‘fleece eratwo otherhotels,anul a numberof storesandshops,someofthem of considerabledimensions, About U pun., out time2nd inStant, thee Itasugatlra arrIved with ties mails forEngland. Mr. Mohilien and I went on board,and werewelcomedasthoughwe had risenfromths dead, We heardthen of thearrival of the Bengal passengersin Melbotrnmms,and the consequentanxiety respectIng this fate of thisForlorn hope. An hour or two passedswiltly awayamong friends met undersuch circumstances.Adelaidenews,Adam Bay, the Forlorn Ilope, and hot whlekywersdiscussedwith greatearnesloees,and atlast we steppedintothe boat end returned ti the ~lmorc. On the 4th (heSasettearrived,anti sailedwith themailsandAdelaidepas-sengers. On Sunday,the ~th Inst., as we returnedfromchurch, the gun fired,announcingthearrival ofthe Englishmail, and In little more than an hour. we were on theItangatlra,steamIngherAdelaide. OnourarrIvalat ii.lbany,Mr. Mobtlno andI head been kindly receivedby theResi-dent,amid at oururgentrequesthe providedus with cretlen-lisle for Adelaide. of which the purport wasthat we werenot convicts! felons. We afterwards discoveredwheat Itwasto huavsvisited WesternAustralIa;we werenotallowedto land at Olenelg,saudat the I’ort we were obliged todeliverour letters of Introductionto a policemen beforsleaving thee steamer. After two daysof seasIcknessandsleep, [ awoketo theresponsIbilitIes oh my positIon,antirecollectedprumnieesrepeatedmany(lines, to treatWesternAustralian ~fi’aIrsIn a spirit of justice anti candotir. Thegreatquestion assocIatedInseparablywith ~Veatern Ames-trahiaIs of course thetof convictiem. Asthe easterncob..miles haveChfeadysecuredthe ib~Utlon,within a timort nmr~

14 NOTES ON WESTERN AUSTRALIA.

stated period, of transportatIon to tlmhi contInent, Itmay seemum superfluouSto discuss tIme questionaumy fur-timer, but as our western smelgiubors aseert tluat(lie final decisIon of tIme ilome Govermememet in-volves a triumph of might orer riglmt ; (limit wIimmt limomorepowerful colonies hailed to win by rmrguuncmm(s Ihmeyexhortedby threatsu and thatan umueworthmyudvamitego liestueeum takenof Ibme wealcandihmfeneele’eeposihiorm of tVeetermeAueinalium,we arepot in suuunsdvgreeopium0mm delumece,andII caumumotbenhtogetimerusehe~son auperlluoueto e udeuuvortoshowtim ouun inicuida tlmat time course we have luursued onthmis umiatter is fou~md~iIon neumpon auud jumstlce.

l’o lrmat theircotnp~airmhowihhm nile,’ shli.’mmce meow we leaveoblatnel what we live struggled for, might scorn mBa’r.speclful anlgive sonmecolor to their asserhionetlmat theyhave fuulied In a meretu ml of strengtlm. We umeust rim—tumember,too, thatoou’ utmi~hmboreImmive been tried by longyearsofmeulvereity,attul haveall tlmat seeesi(ivenesspeculiartopnmall commmrmeumnilies, ii is not iunmateriumlto tlmie caseto re-memnuen tbue circumstancesunder which transportmtlontoWeemernAustraliaecmomnenced. In New South (Vales thissystenelied beendisc’umitimmueu!,and everyattemmeptto resumeIt unet w Rim the memoetsteenuuuusojmpositlomm. 1mm Pott l’Ieil ipthe people were gimaded ainmost to luisurrectiomi by ttmsavowal on time part of the home Government oh[heIr Inienhioru tii ebmip corei’icts to thimet emolommy. fendret a monstermeetinga venerablecolonistmode a vow (hmat(tie ilnst convict who landed jut thuose ebmonee elmomildwalkover lila deadbody. In boothAoatruhialIme propositiontoimport l’orkieuret boys and Pentonyilliansexcited Ohmsgreabeatindignailon, and met, public meelingsin!! mumemnahonyehmeechmeawere made,and memorials,emhuodylug tIme moatearneet and dehermmiinedprotests,wereforwarded to timeIunperlal Government, Van Diemen’e Land was thea heatcolony to whmicle lhnihaln simippedlien felonry,but they.alieryears Spentin vain eilu,rhs met reform aued Improvemnent,wereconvincedof time rottennessand unutterablehorronaof lime system,and evensdetsrunimmedto free timeir beauhifulIsland from theedegradationof being useuh as Emugiamul’sceespool. Whmeue once thmey took [hula position theireffortswere remarkedby an entluueiaum,a unanhneity,and a deter-mination(buntexcItedtime adunirathunand eyxnpatimyof timeotimenAustralian colomulee, It wasIndisputable that (rune.portalionto neatAuetrahiencolonymeant transportationtoall, andthe Leaguewas Iormned to obtein from tIme BritishGovernmenttime comnlule(eabolitionof transportation.Whatyearsof petItion and argumentlead failedlie securingwasnow wrung from Downing-atmeel by the boil and doter-joined Irorut and ummiled action of these colonies. Itwas decided that transportation to Australia wasfinally to cease, mend we evens to be deliveredfromue time stigma that hmung emhtoumt Australians, inwhateverpart of tIme world they travelled. Just at thisjummebure ties smallestColony In thus g,’oap sleppeul imi—marredtIme completenessof our tniumplm, and prevented(haperfectfreedom01’ Australia from thelouhestblot (hateverdl~figuned(lee eecutchmeonof a youtmez commemumuity.

‘lime argumentsaulvammcedhe_your WeaterueAualraliunnsIgh-hours In lavimn of tranvpdytationare esluaraluheinto twoclasses,thosepurportiuugto shmow that convlc(ism ha harm-less, and evemm beneficial to the penal colony Itealt, andthoseusedto prove that thee eyebamn cannotInjure neIgh-boningcolonIes,

it will tie Impossibleto be gxliameehivs upon tlmis subjectin thuslumnits wuthmun whiclu I Intendto ueenflmme (huesenotes,but I hopeI shallat least be able to showblunt time resis-tanceof theeasterncolonleato (buscontinumanceof transpor-tationto any partof lime Aust,alien contInent,wasnot un-reasonable,end penimaits I may be able to smuggestgravedoubtsasto whmethmer the bsnsultsSwanRiver imums derivedfrom time expenditureconnectedwhIm convictisun, are notmore Ibeuncounterbalancedby the indirect evils reisuhilmegfrouum time system.

‘lime argumentthat tImecolony imasbenefited by theeexpen-ditureof Imperialfunds,h~of ihselfcaeulitejto lmujuro thecolony, for ut is an admission (lint the eolon~’is so poor,and so destitute of intermual nceourc s, Ihmuct this settlersareWilling to iuunlèit their self-respect,smut! bear tImestigmasthachmun~to a pemial settleemmentbr the sakeof time expendi.furs of lumughlelu mnonvy. it is asserted(beat ermebiloyergwould not be able to obtain labor wsnr, It riot for con.victism. Now., ha it notoccurredto thosewho argueinthmie way tbma~inee labor rumay Imave tissue driven away bytheepresenceof convicts? ‘I’lmhs is mostcartuinly thee emcee.Ii is ret dueluuuled hh~tevery ship thai lmmmmves (VesternAustralian ports lukesaway ss(tler~toothiercolonues,amidon conversingwith tieeee emigrants,their principalcoin-plaint Is that tlmey were obliged to ccmempete In time labormnurket with felons, unuier time variouslilieS of pnisoumers,iickel.of.leave, or conditional pardon men. ‘ilmein, If somany leave becauseDI Conyictimmu,how snauiymere deterredfroun settling in thatcolony by llm~existenceof (heat in-stmtuiuon.

thammy peoplemay get hmnrubenedto tImesystem;employersof labor unsy bind It commmenir’mmi m but beumeestlaborersandIntellugent uneeluanics will always have an imisuperatuleotJeclmuun to enter into comnluetitlmuue u’ulthu people withcropped hair mind broad arrows, All [lee rcunainhumgaeguimmeents In favor nf c~uvicllsm, as it eomcernstime colony, are lurineipully of a mmegaliye klmmd, It Ic urged

thatpropertymacil life aremeot unsafe; that serIousoffencetare hew hue hmnuPurlion to: thiS populatbome,ANocv tImer. is ~greatmien; of hrul,hm hue tlmesestatements,but ills desirabletujeonelder whmeIleer (leers mere umot peculiar heaiurea1mm tImecommdhtitmn of %Ves(crn Auslrumliem (0 accouuetfor llmm’~eappa-rently eitmgulmmr fuchs,ummuml wbmetlmer theme features are likelytut betuermuanent Convictsdo notcounmnl; Imlghuway robbery,beeumtmoeiew vu’opie carry umeucle money nbommt [Item, mmmcdlever Imueve unmmcli to carry. ‘l’lmey due not somteuattburglarybecausetime Spoil they would gumlue would notrepaytime riekof severepmmmisimueeeemt. hit a great reasonwhy themydo emotphuemmtlenis (hat ii they hook anytlming butmummery they’ wouldhamdly hinoiv whet to mb witle it lee a small armd poor10pm.hal iomm. lie vy do muot cutunmalt mummyassaultsol are mmtrociouikimmd, becaumse,scmtlerei!ovensvastextentof country, thiei~Instincts limed gruthibicahionaummong time migiive camme;ue, limereumsome hhmmmt oltenumtes rmaoetpowenluully In preventimigeeehomu~cnimumeon lime lint of thee convictsis time certainty01 deieciion.1mm a smumuhl mind scatteredcounenunilyconceelumemetIs neces-sarilydililcult Everyone (ravellingaboutlame euljcctof ob’seceahiome. Timeme the ueahivvo trackany one fleeing fromuejustice wl(he alemuostunennimeg accuracy. blew p’mpulatlonbeingso s;tarse,footprints nra not very liable to be ob-literated. Even in t’ertb nativesmay somnetiunesbe seentrucking whuite oitemmders. It is almostimpossible,too, foecrinetrmalsto escapefrom (hacolony; theareisat presentnopracticable overland (rack, and the caplurs of rumeawayfelons is slumply a matter oh time, Now, our Swan Iliverf’edeumds will riot argus heat time statsof thingsthat rendemsit. easy to coemtnol tlmeir prisoners will always ctmmmtiueue,‘rhecy will not surely remmson on the assumptionthat theIrcolony cviii always bevery poor, very thinly po;’ulated,suedcompletely iaolateuI fromn [ha otimer colonies, it is writepoinbingout hlmat time prieoueers hearslittle pnoyocaiiorm tost-cal. Timeir trea(memmtis kini, If notjudicious; (busy haveabundanceof iood, and do as little cyonk aspossible. If aiettlsrIbmude one useleeslee cameretrernhim on (lie luanmie ofthem Government,wheum hewill agabumhays a goodalhocvanceof fool. andcan work asliltie aslie hikea. Ilewre nramummyprisoners in gangsabout this countrywitluoub supervision,and those who are provided whIle an overseer

- au’s not expected to dietnesethmemselvesby uuuythming ap-p oaclilng to seversexertion, 1’on men treatediii tide wayto plunderwould be Indeed wanton gratuilous dspraviiy.Yet, notwitlmstanmhingall thmhskind treatment,somedo breakout intoviolationsof(ho law. ‘there weretwo bumsierangerslooseand plundering(huesettlsnsduringthee time I was 1mm(Vesterru Ar,mstrahIue, and occumslormally one is suspended.Smell ohlemmm,em~mere innumerable.

But let us exammelu.now tImeevils of traosportsthon—evhlathmret mustbe fall by Western Australia as surely as byotheercolonIesthat triedties systemand werecompelled timabandonit. Thereis time reputation—theevery na;ne of aconvict colony timat inflicts so much immjuny. Thus stigmaattacheesItself (0 everymemberof tbme community. It Is buta few yearsslncaAuetnalhansof all lbs coloniesevenslookedupon in othercountrirswhIlesuspicion,andwere made dis-agreeablyconsciousof the fact In (teeminds of the peoplein EmuglandandAmerica every Australian was associatedwhIte lholany hay, lie wastreateulas thmoUghe tImers was a(aleil of time prisonaboutlmimn, and If lee was regardedwithany Interest It appeared to be a curioslhy ho sewwlmetleer (bus marks of the gyvee and fettar~warsitt all fresh. I1~w persons from Swan 1tlve~are regarded wheen (lucy appear evithout credentialsI neednot say. TransportationpreventstIme settlementofa countcy. While someleavein dirguest,few or none cometo lake timelr places, It doesnot alguelfywhetleertheIr no-thoue~of convictismeearecorrector exueggeratem!; It is men un-doubtedfactthat tlmsy opec-ateto preventpeople Iroen eunl-grating to a pemmal colony. I do not meanto infer bluatcomevietism Is time only reasonwhey settlers do notgo to‘uVesteruAustralia, tat undoubtedly It prcveeute,seed willprevent,macmy irounsettling therewhenwould otherwise 10so. thattIme evil effecisof time system upon time popumlathonwhmoremaincarunutbe otherwisethan lnjmenioue. Eveu imsWesternAustralia,personswell acqualnteilby positionandexperiencewithu time workimegof thesystem,stateit as(beebeconviction timat this daily ant imounly i’aunhliurltv celtIc crimec&numot fail to blunt time’ moral perceptions,and heave aiuaedeningeffect u

1uome tIme best constitute! minds, From

time ueounsntyou land In that coinny villainy of somekindon rmnutlmer is hhru~tupon your notice. Youjostle uegehmmstmurderers; garotterswide yougood evening; 1!umot~was aburglar, cued probably tIme luosiler was transported forburmmlng a icaynick.’ ‘uValking along (lee streetsyou rumeel Imardened felons, whIte all their characterdepicteul in timeir counterumencew,doubtless longeng formmmcc fairer field for time exerciseof their talents, In (haSItUpsyomm limed men ofa uliflerent clams; perleaposomeesleosstmmmtumual dexterity adeumiratulyfits (buena Ion thee m!umtiea of meretail business. liehmiumu! time cujmenter5 meted In offices you seesmootim-toemguedand smniliumg villainy; here areunen mrheoeooilcaceswereof a literary character,wimo indulgedIn state-mnenterespectingmatters of Imoct riot streclly consletemmtwith wober (nutim,on wtmo were luanislued for aunoyimmg mereol oiunumnmmcrciuml mmmmmmds with extravagantworksof ltctluue,

GrantlemglImit time noblest shuudy of rumarukeodis mnsn,these seetuhiaSs oh hmmmauuit-y of whmichu one may seetoomuch, lime ~iIcetof timis aesociatlomuwith ielomeryupon the

NOTES ON W&~ERN AUSTRALIA.

minds of tIme youngmust be deplorable. 1 once knswagentlmmuceauewhen Invariably and Ihrnely Iuasisteii upon timeabeolmetanecessibyofneveremployIngany butpreliy umuras-snailsho a famimlly. for lee unaltebabrmeh(heat cbmllIu’emeshway~caught theeexprecalomeof timose wtmo were mostcomestantlymevitim (bent. I tuelleve (hits was carryIng a soured Iunlelctbmleto me dmmtugeroua extreme; but surely rio fathuer coult‘thmlnk wilhiout leorvor of bringing his childrenInto a court-xnuntty wheereof every docenface~they wotmlul hue i’:mmnlllarwihbm, eight would bethoiseof ruffians orsneakS, ‘lIme ittu’uof really effectIng ma eatormatlonIn the ehmanncterof tiesprisonersI believeto bea delusIon. To reforuna convictyoumusthold Out tho hopsof tile beingabletue recoverto sortieextent hIs posItionIn society, Now, I think WesternAhis.trahaIs (leelast placewhereha will be able(~do tills. IthInk (hereI~abroader.deepergulf betweentime eomevictmused -this free population In thmat colony thmmmui in borruer penalsettlements,andtheechm’,mncesofa prisoneraccunemilatingpro- -

pertymustbeinfinItely enameller.Now we will look at the questionas It nifects other

colonies. Our nelgheborasay, h’lrst, tlmat their convictscannotget to us in mmuy numbers;and, aecondly, tlmat Iflbmeydid ttecy wouldnot do muale bu.rm, on accountof tieririnoffeuesive character. Now we leave perièct ~irorufthatnanny Swan ltis’ercorevlcts have fomimed tieoir way to thesecolonIesandbeenconvictedof serIouserlunes,and puenisimethat our expense. Clmieh Juehlce Cooper, Mn, R. F.Newland, t’olice Magistrate at I’oct A!elaiuls, amidMr. 11. It. Torrena all deposed to (levee facts, ItIs ridiculous to sneerat eeeciu evidence cc thels. [hit thmafactiswe mere not witimomat We~ternAtmstnallarj men lee ourpolice,who knowthe innocentsof SwanRiver wleeue timeystneyamongstue; and,without doubt, theasamemeasartiomehetrueof Victoria, It he salul thatconvictecaneasilybeex-cludedby eucleprccautioesasmve bearsmedotutedbeingad-leeredto; but when [leonaandsof mneuearehouegieegto leave-oneoolonyborareadjoiningone,manyn’llhI’unil sommue metlmoihof accooepiishchngtlueirotujec(. [leaveheardIt spokenof mea~ pheasantjoke, that(tie favonitc plan of esciltenow is toelmip for India, meted theeue come from there to Adelaide orMelbourne,when,of course,uule.atheyare auscldemetslhyre-‘cognhseulasIelons,they canlandwltlmout manyquestionsbeingasked. Burt a danger that appearsIn tbma distanceIs theistcommunicationby land with Swan ltlvsr I~likely’ In tugcourseof a short tIme to beregularand easy. ‘flee discovery-of freshtraets oh good country, time eetabllshemnentof newegttlamnecn(s, and tIme opening up of new routesacrossthe Continent, wIll conueae ‘tVestern Australia wIthties oths~ colonies; and the convlctt will be mebboto ~pre~td tlactne~1vesover Australia without anydifficulty. I considerft c~r(alnthat, me a rule, convictswlslm to leavethe scene of timeir punishmentand dm’gn’eda-tion. ‘Ibis wouldheold especiallytrueod’ S’u’esternAustralia,eituatetI near far more prosperouscolonies, wbmere felonsmightin large populationspursuettmiulr evil courseswilbiIeee chance of detection; or, II’ really wiehmiug to reformtim Ir lives, miglet earn their ilvehlbmood husneetly wi(hmoutfeelingthat everyeyewatchedthem, and tima(everyonewasacquaintedwith tleeir hmlatory. ‘lIen greatuuajonity mef theeconvictsIn WesternAustraliawish to heave it, end will docoon anymendeveryopportuzemhty(huatoffers,ant! hewof themwill go anywhere but to tue otluer Australian cu~lonice.Trutneportation(none colony is trnneportatluue1-0 all.

It hasbeenurged [html time convicts are ahugularlyharm-less and Innocent,and this hens been ae~ertsdso pertina-ciouwly *nih earrmeatly,that one would Imaginetrutneponba--[Ion to b. quitea purifying process theist in luasslogtherougietime feerteutcim of penal discipline, the clearacteeis Ihiorongimlypurge! of all thmegrosmerelements, The fact tbumt meow,menareonly transportedfor seriousoifences, or on accountofrepeatmdconvictione for crime, might seem to umeilitataxgmmiuuet tIde view cut thee subject limit probably ~V’es(ernAustrailaumsadopt(hue belief entertainedIn ceetuulm.uecbeooheof theology,that time greater(ho sinner time greater (leeselect. Akin to this Is a provarbcurrent amommg ivom’hul-hinge, thatyoungmm of time mostirregular hiabuitsiuutalhlblybe.~omzcethe roost exemplarydomesticclmaractere, As, Ienw-ever,wehaveneltimer known thmesspropositions(oh. demecoem-Cteaueul, nor been favored will) it sufficient nummebsuer otgxamluhesin tlmelr eupport, we’ most declineat presenttoactubuon timeun. Timers areeutltclemel reasonswhey convictssleoulu! not beso harmlessin tlmeeme colonies mis In WewlerumAustralIa, ‘lIme tenepta(Ionsto crimne are greueter—theclmeumoeeof detectIon hewer. ,Anotiecr rcusoee wimy SwanRiver innocentsmight ho troubineome Is, that If Ilevyhonoredus with tiurir presencetimeyevould leaveto wont.We Iii uool stmpportmeblel,odied mecca, whmeiherIeeeor bond,in tillensius, ‘uVe leavenot yet abolishedthee good oIl rulethatunekest e exerciseof eatingcontingentupon exerciseofa severerkind. As we are souuewheatetrlogentIn thIsparticular, ear pleesantueessand rcolsurmederatanulinrmightensue evitle men who lead been (ruIned In an easierBetmool

I think now I havedealt wIth (hIS subjectguhiicmentlytoeluow Heat we have not struggledfur ties imbuhihion if trans.puiriaI ion withoutsomm s(mouy of reason. Oiecumssiunon theequteetin,excepinsamailerof hmhstory, Is now useless. WeCart emily look forts-ecu! to thee time wheeme time last convictisiihmm stummll arrive met Fremuntle,antI we ~bahl mmmi hon’

4er be

madethereceptaclefor theedregs~f England’sgeola. it is

to tie hopedthatbefoea[lien ore, sistercolony will recognIsetn hmer unbrues mmmcd hlume

tmuerem in hme’r p:m~torumito nile. now hying

tulle; hue bier mmcmv ierrlmuury,all 1mm tIm’ immIustry emmi hmmlelll—gene oh leer tree popalustluen, better eoemrcu’a of nutheumumiweutltbi thm’imm In I tm-s cxpeuvi juices oh thtitlsh uieooeyon a1e~thoomesandlacy anuh incorrigible futoute,

I will now gins my luempri’ssiume asto the resourcesmutedpro~pecl5 if lVcsterue A mustralia— Iumehnesshcmmst’eurumiei ui Ii.eavery smiperlicl.l ammul perU’ I hew if I bun coammtry. htmL meetcs’itbmout seriousvommehicruetiumo. t Inacr’ilu,ih somume unitesoverwhat [ have hmu’anl described a5(lie c- neit dinhnict oh’ lImeebony— time Cbeeplumi ltm)r uuei,’(mborhiouoh, I hove seencomet-beIngoh’ the viu’tutity of l’erbbm. amel in guile

1,’ lu lIme

Soumueu! leavepiusmel over whatSwan RicercelemmlsI~comesliu’rthmuln worst ground. I hue liu,’ee limit lime elmirumeter mit’ Ibisooucumtry las beeme unoclu rulieuemebcrule ml; bleatgirt hotel ienot erasource ins people leave Iuriugimiel, smut Ihat lbs loumg—tomutimiueul

1uOeerty auth ulm’preSoiomm of Westermu A mmml cmliii

ansi’s mumumb mety frommi uirtit’m:m I c moses. I hive al realyde~crmhuhtIme lamuml 1 imavc seen,acedeven whereit hums IJOcmicumimueuummlaueppoem’ito tue wuurthmless,((mereIs ma queuimmbihyof useful cmiiI atmu sure that amine I a.m iv uuum thee shoummul—rca-I wuculul, ifwitlutmi 70 mur Co uceihesOlAdeLmile, be womhlu La orLe heracre.Most of them is lyimug waetu’. Ice time cuummluy on eiltmu’r siloof timeoccnlandruuumto tIme larch Is m,mumchi helter, acedtIme guodSoil mmeore plentiful. ‘lucre are mnaemyummen whmo, tmeginmuhmigwith notheing, leave aculmlrcl comapetemmce’ by luccummirueIn (he coijny. The good laud Is scatheredlee patches more shuau In title colony, tat stillthcre i~ a gremt dciii of it. TIme Ciumucitry Is Scullwatered;&(lmou~lmthem’s are ri-i large rIvers, exceptIn limeneuv territory, time streamsan! sprlmmgeare veryruucbu this—tributel, ‘lime agricultural and pa~toralimuteneetsof \Ves—tern Amitrahhis are ca~tmhuhe of an ,‘mmortmmous expansion.‘t’iee ‘oll aueutclimmmtmbe areadmIrablyadaptedfor vinug~note’iuug,and theeyield Is etmontreotme. Alueauuetall h’rmmlts hlarishe. TImemimics umcuet ~laiut attention. Any Somethm Austrumliame tra-velling In the rmeiumlng ulisleict evith nobicemine alter memlusthat huas beenateunlommedwhen sbmowimmg good copier. amenpromis ng to yield a quantityof ore, tot wammt of 11mm’ fuzumuiCnecesmaryfor lImo opeu’utloteetheist roost in almost all casesprece’le returns,Instead of foliuiteitmg tlmemcu. ‘lime exlemmt ofuninerabeoummtry eeeumis almost illiireit,mbl,, amid fresh die—ouurenieeare continuallybeing mid’. ‘I’hme staplefor whichWesternAuetro.hlai~most celebratedIs huetluntuen,ofwhIchthe supply Is, praclicumhly, exhuoustle’s. liven thee hornetSthat oeee passesthirooglu on time track be(we’n l’erthe andtheeSneummd~vouiidexcite them aulmiratlomi of lueumlul6 frmmmee tle~easterncuulouilcS ; but time cohurmietsthmlemk mccl huimug of tbus’estrees. ‘lucy are not comiebumerab,lein ccc or qaalhiy to thoseIn (he forests mebout I(armbuiry at-mi Vasse,acedin othmer1mar15of tIme culumey. TIme ureostvalaumumle wool is thenealmogmamey’—hard. toumgiu, riunmiblu’, of me pheasltm~color, asciI cumpohuleofreceiving an excellent polisle. l’mebumluly tue blue gumeadoes meet smirp’mes It as in ttmn~er for simhpbmilling.‘[‘lee York yarn Is a vnagnihlcentieee.and this red gummegrows tome greathmelgbmt and circumlerececo.ComuhuaredwhImthesegtumn(e of the l’oreal, otlmvr sluecienemesof tlmnber aim’near smuuhi. but are of ma, useful :kice-j, timmehi’ cc ctimeracli’rfe-s ‘uVeetera Australian woodaeq’clrel, timal I ucmieesharmulorulemato acaImmenseextent mcelglmtbeobialaselfrom humus,huh (tiers Is ueeithmerthis caluitalummr energy to carryout suedeContracts, Ties ssndunlwooultradeteas beenrumitmer deli mitlate, Whethmerthedev~husedwbmo purclmaseit havebecomehueSpious, whiettieranotherincenseequmi.ly plu’ueimugto tIme divi-nIties line bectadiscovered.or whetherit is elmnplyan oruhi-nary casecuT mm glutted market, I mmcl unable to say,butt thug(rate I~depressed. llomvevcn, I sew largequmantilies of(lie wood, stripluelof Ils bark,mind ~himckellee yarts,or bm’lngcartedto (bessseaports. Naturally lIme enquirywill tie, hftlmuscolony of \Veohern Australia Imasetichm resourceS, hmomv Is itthmar it limes bruce ho sodepresseda stale, and aghuleyeuies

trihliumymumeamoun(ofprogresslumimug 36 years of settlement?lime hlrstgrated blucuuh’r in cotomelsing Swan River was,asevery oneknows,Limo hummedeystemcn—tlmepracticeof granhhmmbarge blockS oh land to piertuca witbcout capital, em;ofeu,’ce without the lmmeemvbeelge and energy to enuihulo(Item to unaktu a pruulitabla nsa of what tbueyguelneelsoeasily. Many tiimuiaod acresof gm! lurid, evennear tIme cuelultemb,are lying aswaste rmou’.’ ase’leemu they weregrumnbmud. I

1argeestatesare fencedIn, but no meanis maleof

theelast excepttograzecuuttle uçuomm It.ntnotlmerdisaivantagefruuun wlmicbm WesternAustralIa hues

stcttcreebhasbeen huer complete Isohallutu heommi the oiliercolonies, Sue lees bmat no nverlanulmuibs if cattleandsheepwheen setthiucg huer eoummtry; amen rio umeanimet finn her onsetaubuerhhueoos~iock. 81cc teas gumlrmeul little or no sdvaielauZeI’romme thisdiggings In Victoria, heaving had almcoetas lIthecomnmmemuulcatlofl smith that c-,totiy as whlh ammy foreigncoummtry. I’emmhals whip bell time Swanfor thisdiggings setiotaretoemeed. Commvlctiemnof tale years buas heelpeul to deterpeople froun looking ho ~Vm’sIi’rrt Atestruuhleas a placmi toSettlein. ‘l’bmere sre other disua’hvorttugosci ut kiumuh not eoe’ssy to c~ntcndwibte, Every Aumetrutbiamecolony romflumms’nCeCwith eattlo mend shec’cp es a abuerhmtmg pulnt —no brumuchi ofhuuduestrygrows menu!~mnatmares51) rapIdly em thus huastorattmeheneetm amid if anew territory nec tide c’jnlimueeut were un—suilel fir smock, its early Itrogresswould beootnpaemetieelyshow. Now, tIre poisoma lulant leas heemi theeruiuc of mummysqueattrrsha lVs’ate’nut ~‘ttnstralla;then whole colony sremu,

10

snoreorlessinfectedwith IhIa plant. All these evils havebroughtothersIn their (rein, People leave becomede-pressedby long yecmre of adversity ant-I diesppomotoient.l’lmey heavelost heartand energy;end operatlomusIn agri-cultureorsquahtng,that wouldsuggestthemselvesat onceto peoplefrom more nchiva settlements,they book upon asleopehesestruggles wIth nature. Ifany leava 1mm disgust,end with m’et of thmosu when remain there is a per-petonl longing to go to other colonies, of wheoseprosperity aced lively bustling life they have heardsomuch. Thereis also the went of new blood; peopleleaveSwan [timer, but nonetake theirplaces. The inluatmi-tents leevemuchthesameIdeasand habits as theey had 30yearsago,only differing probablyin a dimhnuhisnof energyand determInation. Now, I Itmiuk most orall of theedlsed-‘vantagesI heave enumeratedwill beforevery long ceasetoexIst. ‘theeisolationfrom othercolonieswill noblast long.Beyond doubttherewilt behaod communicationbetweentIme northernterritoriesof Westernand Soothe AustralIa,end fresh overland routes will, in all probabilIty, Its dis-covered. Conelnthemwill die out. Theepoisonplant willnotbafound eoformidableasleesbeansupposed- GrowingIn thegoodooncntrtonly In p (dies, it canbe eradicatedprobablyascheaplyas(heScolch thistle that lane infestedthis colony. in theearly lays of SwanRiven and SouthAustralia, with sheep at from 2e. to 48 per head, thisoperahionwould not have paid; but now that stockarevaluable,runs scarce, and rantsleigh. squatterswill find itprolllnbbs to take band at the cheap rate at wbmhnh illsleased In WesternAustralia, even with the expenseof

~u eradIcatingpatchesof poison plant. Al any rala, someofour mostexperiencedsheepfarmerehave thought so, andhave taken up blocksof country, and others eraenre tofollow, It Is notto be questionedthat,us a pastoralandagricultural country, WesternAustralia is inlenlor to theother colonies, andaslend wasabundant,and ronaeasilyohialnedhare,peoplewouldnotgo to Swanhirer; but nowthat the prIce of agricullecral land Is very hIgh, and apIers of new country for a run almost Inccposeiblstoobtain, personswilt torn their attention to a countrywhereband for pastoraloragriculturalpurposesIs soenahtyand cheaplyobtalnabha. In Western Auetrahlayoo cenleaseruns at Is. parIll arias,and purchasegood hand atits. paracre In the settleddistrIcts; and in the north andeastdistricts enjoy runs without neatfor fouryears, andalanominalrant for 11ccnexteIght years,and purchaseatIs. Sd.peracre. ThearegulatIonsfor leasingor purchasingmineral landseraalsoextremelyliberal. Thenewterritoryon time north-westerncoast promisesto baasuccess.no(-withstandIngthe fallora atCamdenharbor. Whena lawpeople from thesecolonies do go to ‘Western Australia,carryIng with them energy, anterpniee,Inlahilgance,andexparlenua,the progressof thathithertouutortuoelacolony

NOTES ON WESTERN AUSTRALIA. .~ -

will-commence;and the ~oooerthsbetter,evenfor US; forIt’imcosl be In av4ryway more advautageouato have pros-perousthan poorneighbors.

TimecontinuedadversItyof thecolony hasbeanattrtbntedIo political causes,andpetitions havebaan preaanledpray-Ing for an elective ParlIament. That WesternAustraliasuffers some of thee evIls of Irresponsible GovernmentIsbeyonddoubt, butwlcehhavthepeopleareripefor theoppo-site syatemoIs a qmuestlonupon which I do notfeelpreparedto expressan opinion, Onetiming Iscertain—theamovementlo favor ofu newconstitutIonteasbeenwithout enthusiasm,oreven earnestnesstherehess bean nothing like a spon-taneousaxprasslunof pobilafeelingin Its favor; It hasheadIts origin in theaactivIty ofa faw IndIviduals, It may’ faIrlyhaconcludedthat If peo;nbeare indifferent about obtaIningthe privilegesof self-government,they wtlh be equallycars-lassIn theexerciseol the duties.

A I’ewgeneralobservationsmustnowcompletethesenotes.WesternAustraliaappearsremarkablyhealthy. Althoughthe temperatumreis sometimesvary high,our nelyheboreeranotmouhalUiciedwith ourhot winds, That theclimate ison time whole, temperate,Is solUclemitly provedby the bloom-ingoomplexlooeooafrequentlyseesIn Perthand leretoantla.WhitesbornIn thecolony arecommonlyhall, sodIce generalappearancearemorehIke thenatIvesof Adelaide than thoseof eitherSydneyor Tasmania, Thereappearsto ho abouttheapeopleanabsenceof energyand lnyantlvenase.TheeaqualItieswere, perhaps,drawn rather largely upon sometwenty or thirty years ago. Long years of disappoint-ment lcsva induced In many a feeling of reelguallonto dulnees end slow progression. They seem tobear patiently evIls thay suppose they have sinpower ho remedy. There are many who are exceptionsto thIsrole, andwho chafe at thee restraintsthat clrcnm-shancesImposeon theirenergies, and the talents they eraconsnIousof possessing.The colonistsare hnapltablsaodwarm-lmearted;strangersInvariably find e welcoma. SouthAustralianswould lanoy(hemecleasamongAdelaidepeople,for time eettlera have so manyconnaxhonamated friends herethat their sympathies are more with os than with anyother colony. What ia calledjeer exeeifemmcesoohe(yhue athoroughbredcharacter,attributableto the povertyof theecolony having beenunfavorableto the growthof wheateraIrreverently called mushrooms. Thea people romphainoftheesneering(oneIn which the pressof othercoloniesspeakof WesternAustralia and her pobIto characters. Time un-pleasantbearingot the other coloniestowardSwanItlverhas,withoutdoubt, been provoked by convlotlam, and willdisappearwith thee cause that producedIt. We cannotthink slIghtInglyof a cohonywith whoseearlyhistorya Greywas Identified, that has given Australia a Gregory,endsacrificeda Paoterto thecauseof geographicaldlaoovery.

m~m

PIiINrZD siT W~lILT5

AT TIlE AuvEitrIssut AND CshltONICtLE OPI’ICEB5

OItSflaLL STBgE; ADELAIDEe