TWO YEARS IN THE JUNGLE

THE EXPERIEN OES OF A HlJ.NTER

AND .NA TURAL IST

IN INDIA, CEYLON, THE lUALAY PIDilNSULA il'D BORNEO

BY

WILLIAM T. HORNADAYCHI EF TAXIDE R:\IIST. U. S. NATIONAL MUSEIDI

LATE COLLECToR FOR WARD'S NATURAL SCI&'iCE ESrAllLIS lillE.Y''-T

WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS

" There is a pleasure in the pathless woods,There is a rapture in the lonely shore."-Bym7l

NEW YORK

CH ARLES SCRI BNER'S SONS

1885

PERPUSTAKAAN NEGARA MALAYSIA

CO NTE NTS.

P A RTL

I NDIA.

OHAPTER T.

THE JO URNE Y TO INDIA.'O)A.GB

Objects of the Trip.-Boycotted in Ireland. - The Cha llenger Collec­tions.-The Liverpool ~Iu:;eum.-The British Museum.i-c-FromP aris to Rom e.-Art cereus Nat ur e.-Collecting at Naples.-TheZoological Sta tio n.-Alexandria .- The Nile Delt a.-- Cairo.-APi cni c to th e P etrifi ed Forest -The Aut hor rid es a Camel. t--Egyp ­tian Fossils.v--Through the Su ez Can al. -A Day at J eddah.-Pil­grims and Strangers. -The Tomb of Eve.-The Red Sea .- APl easant Voyage.- Bombay ' " . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . . . . • . . 1-20

OHAPTER II.

BOllIBAY.

Duty on Outfit. - A Model (!) Consu l.-The Servant Question. -TheGrand Jllarket. - F lowers. -Fruit. - Fi sh .-Live Birds.-TheFirst Specim en.-Street Cars.-An Interesting Crowd .- Veh icles.- The Bullock Ha ckery.- Th e Homeliest Anim al Aliv e.-TheVictori a and Alb ert lIIuseum.-Soft-hearted Hindoos.-The Hos­pital for Animals.-A St ran ge Sight.- -A Good Sorvant. c-ifrepart -ure for Allahabad.. . . . . . . .. .. .. . . . . . . . . .. . . . . •. . . . . . . . . " . . . 21-29

OHAPTER III.

FROM BOMB AY TO ETAWAH.

Physical Aspect of the Country.-Scarcity of Animal Life.-A BarrenRegion.-JlIajor Ross.-A Boat 'I'rl p up the J um na.-A lIIile of

PERPUSTAKAAN NEGARA MALAYSIA

YIn CONTENTS.

PAGEBath ers.- Dt>ad Hindoo.-Plenty of Birds bu t n o Gavi als.-Re­turn and go to Etawah.-The Dak Bungal ow.i--Two Sp ecim ensth e First Day.-:\Iy Boat and Crew.-A Day in the Bazaar.-AnInstan ce of Caste . . . . ... .. . . . .. . . .. . . • . . . . . • . . . . . . . ... ... . . . 30-38

OHAP TER IV.

GAVIAL SHOOTING ON THE J Ul\INA.

Afloat on the Jumna.- Character of th e River. -Difficult ies of Croco-dile Sh ooting.-The Fatal Spot -Prospects.- The Fun Begins.-Defeat through Poor Shootin g and Native Timidit)-.-An Ha­rangue.- Swimming after a Wounded Gav ial. - Death of" Num-bel' One."- Anothe r still Larger .-How to Sk eleton ize a Gavial. -Mod e of Skinning Described.- Birds of Prey.-Crowds of Spec­tators.- Gavial Eggs.- A lIIodel Crew.i--Plucky En con nt er witha Wounded Gavial.-A Struggle at Close Qnarters. - Our Pl an ofOperations.- A Good R ifle.-Kill ing Gav ials . at Long R ange. . . . 39-49

OHAP TER V.

THE GANGETIC CROCODILE.

A J olly Life. - Native Tenderness for th e Gavial.-Eating th e F lesll.­The J umna swarming with Gav ials. - A "l\Iass JHeeting .;'-Lossof an Enormous Specimen. - l\Iaximum size Attained.-TheGavial's P lace in Xature.-Habits and Characters of the Species.-General Observations on the Crocodilians.-Nnmber of EggsDeposited .- T he Gavial not a l\Ian ·eater.-A Ticklish R eptil e.- Vocal P owers . . . . .. . . . . .. . . .. . . . . . . .. .. . . . . . . .. . .. . . . . .. . 50-57

OHA PTER VI.

ANIlII AL LIFE ALONG T HE J UlIINA.

Boating on the J um na.-A Long Prayer.i--Th o Saras Crane.-- QueerAntics.-The J abirll .-Xests of the Scav en ger Vultnre. - Pea­cocks.-A J ungle Cat Surprised. - Th e J ack als' Serenade.-Tur­tles. - Th e Gangeti c P orpoise.-Xati ve Vill ages.- Th e P eople.­F em ale Ugliness.-Frien<ls and Fo es.- A Native Funeral.-Cre-mation a mere Form. - An Adj utant Shot.c--Goodbye to the Ri ver. 58-68

OHAPTER VII.

R AVINE DEER AND BL ACK BUCK HUNTING.

An Invit ation.- Aspect of th e Couutry.v-e-Maj or Ross's Camp.-A Lu x­urious Establi sh ment. - Th e Jumna R avines. - The " Rav ine

PERPUSTAKAAN NEGARA MALAYSIA

COK TEi'lTS. ix

P.!.GEDeer ."-A .Day's Sport.-Fift een Gazell es-and a i'lil- Gai.-TheSasin Ant elope or " Black Buck. "- Anim al Pests -Anoth er H unt,dth 3Iajor Ross.-Interesting Spor t.-A Narrow Escape.-AStern Ch ase at i\Iid-day.- Eight Antelopes Gath ered in. - A H oli­day at Agra.---The T aj )leh al, of cour se.- Ta j-struck Travell ers.-The Trees of the Korth -West P rovinces .. . . .. . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . 69-82

CHAP TER VIII.

BEXARES, CALCUTT A, AND lIADR AS.

The Monkey Templ e.-Sacred Anim als.-Th e Fakir.-Th e Hindoosas Beast Worsh ipp ers.-A Beast ial R eligion .- F rom Benares toCalcutta.-Th e H ot Season .- " P unkahs an d T atti es."-Depart .ur e for l\Iadras.- The H oogly R iver.-Sailor Anatomists.-Th eHoogly Ch annel. - lIadras.- A Seapo rt without a H arbor.-TwoYears of Dr ought. - A Famine-str-ick en City.-A Patern al Govern­ment .-The l\Iadras Museum .- Another Language and anoth er-Servant " . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83-!'2

CHAPTER IX.

THE NEILGHERRY H ILLS.

The "Blue Mountains."-A Natur al Eden .i--T'hysical Aspect. -TheCoonoor P ass. - Beauty and Gra nde ur. - Climbing up to P aradise.- Ootacam und.- - P roducts of th e Hills.-The Worst H otel inIndia.- A H unt in the " Delectable Mou nt ains."-Above th eClou ds.-The Todas.-A R em arkabl e Pe opl e. -Their NegativeQualities. - P h en omena l Laziness. - The " P aulaul " and the"Paulch i."- P hysique of th e Todas. - Dress.- P olyalldry , orP lur ality of Hnsbands.- Het roth al , Marri age, and Di vorce.-In­fan t icide.-The Toda H ut. -Th e Mund.-TheToda Buffalo.­Little Game but Splend id Scen ery.-A Cloud Scen e.-An EmptyBag, but no R egrets . . . .. . . . . . .•.. . . . . . . . . • • 93- 104

CHAP TER X.

THE WAINAAD FOREST.

A Hunting Trip to Mudumallay. i-cMonkey Sh ooting.-The Karkhana,-The Mean est Natives in India.-Obstacles.-An Old Hypocrite.- Record of One Day's Huntin g.-Expert Track ers.-Bison .-ALong Ch ase.- Death of a Sambur Stag .-A H erd of Wild Ele­phants .c-cAn Attack by au Amateur, on Foot and Alone.-CloseQuarters.- Fai:nre.-Lost in th e Jungle.- A Samb ur Kill ed by a

PERPUSTAKAAN NEGARA MALAYSIA

x COXTEXTS.

PAGETi ger . - A Bad Pred icament.-Deliverance by a Lucky Gu ess.­The Author's Sta tu s as a Sh ik ar ee.-Death of a Bull Biso n.­Skinning Under Di lliculties.-Instinct of Self-preservation inlIIonkeys.-Jungle F ever .-Xative Ctissedness again .- Re turn toOoty .-A Good Samaritan.-A Model (!) Physician.--lIIr. andMrs , Dawson.- Departure 105- 118

CHA.P TER XI.

THE AXIi\IALLAI HILLS.

A Hunter' s P aradise.-Gett ing th ere.- Th e Bullo ck Bandy and itsDri ver .-His Discour se.- Physical Aspect of the Ani ma lla is.­Toonacadavoo.-A Glorious Prospect.-lIlr. Theobald .- An Effi­cient Officer and Faithful Friend.- Character of the Forest. -Sea·sons. - P rotec tion of th e Elepllants.-A Permit Obtained.-lIIylIIul cer Hunting Gang.-The Karders .-lIlore Ornamental th anUseful , , .. '" 119-129

CHA PTER XU.

ELEPHAXT HUXTL~G.

"A Lodge in a Vast Wilderness." - H ut- building with Bamboos.­Elysian at Last. - Character of E lephant H unt in g.- Grand butDangerous Spor t.-India n Z'eI'8118 Africa n lIIethods.- The Sk ull.-Difficult y of H it ting the Brain.- Cranial Fracture I mpossible.- Th e F atal Sh ots.-Physiq ue of the El ephant.-Tracking up aH erd .-Welcome Sounds.-Surrounded by Giants.- The Att ack .-Stamppde and Flight of the Herd.-Great Abundance of LargeGame.- The Charge of a Dan gerous An imal.-Fooli ng aro und aBaby Elephant. -Charge of an Infuriated Female.-A Gra nd but" Scarey " Sight.-Repelli ug the Ch arge 130-14:1.

CH APTER XIII.

lIIONKE YS, BEARS, AND ELEPHAJ'.i"'"TS.

TIle Bl ack Lan gur.-l\Ionkey Shooting.-A Startling Cry . - AbsurdEn counter with Three Bears.-A Stern Chase.-Death of Num­ber Two.- A ' Vofnl "Slip 'twixt cup and lip."-Surprise Nu mber ,Two .- Th e Old Bear Dies.-Habits of th e Sp <ecies.-A TypicalEleph an t H unt.-Hunters Hunted.-Wond erful Mnnoeuv rlng ofth e Elephan ts. -- A Stealthy R et reat. -A Doub le-barr elled Attack.- " Shavoogan ! "-ranic-st ricke n H unters. - F ail nr es, F ever ,and Scarcity of Food 142- 151

PERPUSTAKAAN NEGARA MALAYSIA

CONTEX TS .

CHAP TER XIV.

A TIGER H UNT.

xi

PAG E

TilTers. -The Game- k ille r. - The Cattl e-lifter. - Th e lIfan-eat er.-o Reign of Terror .- Eigh t Hnnd red Victi ms Annually. -lIIodes of

Ti!rer .h un ti ng.-Howdah Shoot in g.- 3r achan Shoo ting.- Shoot­in; on F oot. -An Impromptu Ti ger h unt .- The Trail.-A Light"Batt erY'''- The Game Overh nuled .c-cA Good Sh ot. - Death ofa Sup erb " Game-k ill er. "- Dime nsions an d Weigh t.-A ProudlII oment.-Stru ggle to Preserv e the Skin . . _ 152-160

CHAPTER XV.

SKELETOXIZING A.."" ELEPHAXT.

lIIischie,ous El ephants.-Cha se of a Large Herd. - Death of a Tusk er._Forb idden Ground.- A Secret. -The III ulcer 's Oath .-A Changeof Base.-Skeletonizin g an El ephant in Sixteen Hours.-Cach ein gth e Bones.-The Traces of our Guilt. -IIIoral Aspect of t he Affair.-Th e Sp otted Deer.-A Pretty Pi cture.- Th e Indi an El k or Sam­bur.-Bad Case of P rotective Colorin g.-Ser en ad ed by Sambur. ­The " Brain-fe,er IIiI'd."-Tree R ats.-The Muutjao.c--DeliciousVenison.-The Neilgh erry Goat. -Wild Hogs 161-1 73

CHA P TER XVI.

THE SECOND YEAR OF THE lI1ADRAS FA1'lII:NE.

Sickness in the Jungle.-Temporary Absen ce from t he Hills.-AStarv ing Wai f.- Th e Spectre of Fatniue.c-iFumine-strick en Na­t i, es.-Cause and Effects of the Fam in e.-The R eli ef Camp atAni mallai.-A R eview of th e Hungry. - The Governmen t and theFamine.-" Mon ey Doles."-lI1ortalitJ-'-" Be ye 'Warmed an dF ed ! "- End of the Drought , 174-181

CHAPTER XVII.

THE POETRY OF FOREST LIFE.-BISON SHOOTING.

Return to the Hills.-Benighted in the Jungle.-Nati, e 31eanness.­Doraysawmy, the" Gentleman's God."-A J ewel of a Serv ant.c-.Prospects.-F ever again .- Bass' P ale Ale .-Glorio lls Weath er.- F ine Forest.--The Poetry of Life in th e Fo rest.-Our Mode ofHuntin g.-A Bison Hunt.-Death of a Solitary Bull. -A NobleAnimal.-Chara cter s and Habits of th e . Species.- Another H unt.

PERPUSTAKAAN NEGARA MALAYSIA

x ii COK T ENT S.

PAGE

-Four Bison in F ive Sh ots.-The Bi son as an Antagonist.-lIl r.lIlorgan's E ncounte r wit h a Wounded Bull. -A Close Shave.- ATy pical English Sportsman and h is Bnttery .v--How to P reser ve aBi son -skin for lIi ounting . . . . . . . . . . . • . . . . . . . . . . • • . . . . • • . . . ' " 182-1D3

CHAP TER XvIII.

A l\illllIORABLE ELEPHA~T HUNT.

A Run of Illluck.-The Cli max.-St rained R elati on with an Official.- Th e Turn or th e Tide.-lIIy Last Car d.-An Official F avor. ­Permission to K ill a T usk er v-e-Move to Sungam.-A lIIemorableE leph an t Hunt. - A Bad Sho t.-Dangerous Ground.-A Bold Ad-vance and a Disorderl y R etreat.-lIllllcer Philosophy.c-iA Longand Ti resome Ch ase. - Des pera te Cha racter of th e Jungle.-Luckat Last .-Th e Attack.-An Anxious Mom ent. i--Y ictory.c-TheDead Tusk er. - A Se ll on th e Mulcers.- Skin u ing a Kine-and-a-half F oot El ephant.-The lIJodus Operan d i.- Camp on th e F ieldof Battle.-Surrounded by Wild Beasts.- Getting up a Scare . ­Burning Bamboo.-A Ti ger ab out.-An Accident.-Back to Sun­gam. - A lIJulcer Row. i--T'ever again. - lIIuti ny iu Camp . . . . • . .. 194-207

CHAP TER XIX.

END OF THE ANIl\lALLAI CAl\lPAIGN.

Balky lIJu lcers.-Work on th e E lephant again .- Wild Beast "VersusTramp and Burglar.-lIJy lIIul cer s go on a Stri ke.-P layi ng aLone Rand.-Bri nging the Men to Terms.-A Bloodl ess but Com­plete Yictory .-Another Tiger about.-Treatment of th e El ephantSkinv--Thc March out to Sungam .-The Season.- The Last ofmy Hunting Gang. - Descen t f rom the Hills in a Storm.i--ParediseLost.s-c-Fever Again.-Good by to the Animall ais.-lIly Collectionof Mam rnals 208-217

CHAPTER XX.

THE INDIAN ELEPHANT.

Geographical·Di stribution. -Indian and Afri can Species COlllpared.- ­Th e Ceylon El ephant.-The Capture of Wild Elephnut s.v-Tlreed ­in g in Capti vity.-Gestati on of th e El ephant. -Durati on of Life.- Growth an d H eigh t.-Size of Tu sk s.c-Classes of El ephauts. ­Uses.-Table of Yalu es.-Intellectual Capa city and Tem per .­El ephan ts at Work in a Timber Forest -Feeding El ephants.- CostofKeeping.-"ilIust ," or Temporary Jnsan ity- " Rogne " El e­phants.-How an Elephant Kills a l\Ian .-},willlming Power ofEl ephants. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • • 218-2 84

PERPUSTAKAAN NEGARA MALAYSIA

COK TENTS.

P ART I L

CE YLON.

CHA P TER XXI.

cor.oxmo.

x iii

P.~GE

~Iadras to Colombo.-Fa re well to Jungle Fe ver.- The Queen of theTropics. - The Singh alese. - The Nati ve Shops. - ExorbitantDu ty on ~Iethylated Spirits.-An App eal, and its Result.-PublicOpi nion.- A P rotest.-Legislation for the "Odd Man ."-TheSea View Hotel. -Xati ves as Collectors. - A iI[orning's Work.­H ow to Clean and P reser ve Echini. -The Gatherings of one Day .- The Fish 1farket. -The Colombo Mu seum and its Director.­Native 'I'axi dermists.c-e-Need of European Preparatenr s in theEast Indies.- An Obli gin g Firm : 235-250

CH APTER XXII.

T HE NORTHERX PROVINCE.

Trip to J afIna.-The Paumb en Passage.- Ja!fna.-Coral Gathe ring.­The Beauties of Living Cora l.-Shallow Waters.-A Harvest ofCartilaginous F ishes. - Rltinobati. - Large Rays.-A H andsomeShark.-A R are and Cur ious Fish. -Rltamplwbatis ancylcstomusDescribed.-Sea Turtles. -Questionabl e Value of Native H elp .­St ar t for illullaiti vu.-J affna to Poin t Ped ro.-The most Nor th ernPoint of Ceylon.i--Xa tive Cussedness again.- The Slowest Sailing-Craft on R ecord ..... ... . . . . .. .... ... . . . • . . . . ... . . . . ... . . .. . 251-262

CHA P TER XXIII.

l\'IULLAITIVU.

An Unwholesome Village Sit e. - Dirt an d Discomfort. - CrocodileHunting.-Cannibalism and Leprosy among Crocodiles.-FlyingFoxes.-A Big H aul. -A H eronry.i--Tlot Jungle.-Death of lIfr .Leys by Sunst roke.-ilfammals.- A Li ve lIfani s and its Doings.­On Short Rations.- Exasperating F ail ure to R eceive Supplies. ­Tropical Hunger.-A Gloomy Proposi tion Stra ngely R efu ted. -ADelicious Beverage.-Journ al of a Trip .n to th e Interior.-lIIon­k ey -sh ooting.- Character of th e J un gle.-Joseph Emerson. ­Elephant Sk eletons.-Self-buried Frogs.-Two Hundred Mon­k eys in Four H ours.-Their Fleetness in the Tree-tops.-Deer.­Overland Journey to JalIna.-Elephant Pass.-Return to Co-lombo . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • • • . . . . . • . • . . . • . . . . . . . . .. 263-280

PERPUSTAKAAN NEGARA MALAYSIA

xiv CON TENTS .

OHAPTER XXIV.

KANDY AND POIKT DE GALLE.PAGE

The Inter ior of Ceylon. - A R un up to Kand y.- Kative Plows andPlowing.-The Mountains. - -Kaudy.-An Overpraised Town .­Summar)' of Ceylon Coll ect ion s - The Royal :Mail Coach .- Gov­ernme nta l Eccent riciti es. - T he Ride to Gall e.-Cha rming CoastScen ery.-A Ch urch Episode.-Bent otte.-P oint de Gall e.-Nep­tune's Garde n. -Ceylon Gems. -Classification of Dealers.-Studyof a Scoundrel , in Black and White.-Diamond cut Diamond. -Farewell to Ceylon _ , 281-290

PART I I L

THE MALAY PE:NINSULA..

OHAPTER XXV.

SINGAPORE.

New Harbor.-A Back-door Entrance.-Mangrove Swamps and ill alayH ouses.-Street Scen es.-The Sailors' Quart er.-Well-plannedCity .-Ch inese Shops and Houses.-Populace.-Social Life.­T he Curse of the East Indies.-The Ame rican Consul.-TwoAmeri can Trav ellers.-A Mod el Millionair e.-The Climate ofSingap ore.-l\lark et for Liv e Animals.-A Visit to ilIr. Whampoa'sVilla.-Curios.-A Tigeri sh Orang-Utan.-Curi osities in Garden-ing , . . . . . . . . .. . . . .. . . . . • ... . . . . . .. . . . . .. • .. . . . . . 291-300

OHAPTER XXVI.

ON THE SELANGORE SEA-COAST .

Malacca.-Selangore.-Klaug River and T own.-A Kindred Spirit. ­Visit to J erom on th e Sea coast to Collec t.-Bamboo Cree k. - AFilthy Chinese 'Village. -A Foul Str eam.-Crocodil es.-Catchi nga Twelve-foot Crocodile wit h Hook and Line .-The " Ali I'."-AHa rv est of Saurians agaiu .-- Crccodil es in th e Sea.-Birds.­Sh rimp-eat iug Monkeys -An Igu ana -The Slowest Ra ce onRecord.-Remark able Fi sh es.-Catching Periophthalmi.-An Ad­venture in l\I ud. -Various Vertebrate3.-Centipedes and thei rDoin gs.i--Doctoting a R ay-stung Fisherman. i-c-Malay Character .- Return to Kl ang 301-313

PERPUSTAKAAN NEGARA MALAYSIA

CON TEN TS .

CHAPTER XXVII.

HUNTING IN THE I}<"'TERIOR OF SELAKGORE.

xv

PA GE

A Trip to the I nt er ior.-Road to Kw ala Lumpor.-The Town.­"The Captain Chee na."- A Bonanza in Cham pag ne. - SungeiBat u.-A Foolish F eat.-Our House.-Feastin g ou Durians.-AJ acoon House and Family.-Resem blance to the Dyaks.- --AnImpromptu Elep hant Hunt.-Attack in a Swamp.-Death of aYoung Tusker. -Plague of Flies.-Another El ephant Hunt.-AClose Shave and a Ludicrous P erform ance.-Discovery and Ex­pl orati on of Three Fine Caves.-Cathe dral Cave. - J'lIammals.­Visit to a Tin Mine.-Chinese cereus Malays.-Political Condi­ti on of Selangore.-Statistics.-Snakes.-Good-by to Klang.- lIIr.Rob ert Campbell, my Good Geni us .• •••••..• .• _, ... " ..• , .. .. 314-332

PART Ill:

BORNEO.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

SARAWAK, PAST AND PRESENT.

Geogra ph ical P ositi on and Area of Borneo.-Explorations.-FromSingapore to Sarawak. - The Finest City in Born eo.-HistoricalSketch of Sara wak Territory.-Sir James Brooke.-Anarchy andOppression.-Cession of the Territory.-Order out of Chaos.­Ev olution of a Model Goternment.-A Wise aud Good Rajah.­Justice in Sar awak and th e United States.-Present Prosperity.-A Lesson for P oliti cal Economists.... ......•..... •.. , . . . . . • . .. 333-346

CHAPTER XXIX.

FROM SARAWAK TO THE SADONG.

Hunting n ear Ku ching.-Crocodiles in the Sarawak .- A Dan gerousPest.-War of Extermination.-From Sarawak to the Sadong.-The Simujan Village.-A Hunt for an Oran g-utan.-In theSwamp.-On the lIIountain.-Valuable Information at Last ..••. 347-353

PERPUSTAKAAN NEGARA MALAYSIA