The Epicure, The Age newspaper
Transcript of The Epicure, The Age newspaper
NATAGE G012
12 EPICURE THEAGE Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Lazydays inthesunNikkiHaynesdiscoverswateringholesofferingachancetocatchlatesummer’srays.
Oldies but goodies
Siglo Level 2 (above theMelbourne Supper Club),161 Spring Street,9654 6300;theeuropean.com.au
Madame Brussels63 Bourke Street,9662 2775;madamebrussels.com
Red Hummingbird1st Floor, 246 RussellStreet, 9654 2266;theredhummingbird.com
Belgian Beer CafeBluestone 557 St KildaRoad, 9529 2899;belgianbeercafemelbourne.com
MoVida Terrazza, at 500 BourkeStreet, is perfect for sun-seekers.
PICTURE: EDDIE JIM
On hot days, there’s plenty of cold comfort at (left) the Local Taphouse at St Kilda and MatchBar & Grill in the city. PICTURES: GARY MEDLICOTT, SIMONE STABB
NEXT GENERATION
THE sun is still shining andyou want to be outsidehaving a drink with yourfriends but you’re tired ofthe rooftops and beer
gardens where you hung out lastyear. Luckily, you’re in Melbourne, acity with a constantly evolving barand restaurant scene. Here are someexciting additions.
For strutting your stuff
Emerald Peacock (233 LonsdaleStreet; theemeraldpeacock.com)Open: Mon-Wed, 4pm-midnight;Thurs-Fri, 4pm-1am; Sat, 6pm-1am
Located on the site of a formerBuddhist centre, there’s a good vibehere. The first floor has lavishboudoir decor with vintage Frenchfoil peacock wallpaper andchandeliers. Ascend to the rooftopand the surrounds are toned downbut still glam, with white pillarcandles in huge glass encasements,and wood decking adorning the floorand walls.
Apart from the candles, there isn’tmuch light at night — not good ifyou’re eating but very romantic ifyou’re on a date.
The views aren’t as stunning assome rooftop bars but are stillimpressive. An informal venue witha high sense of style.Drink and eat The place for cocktails— share a “Big Cock” (a sharing jug)of the Majestic Taj (a refreshingpeachy twist with gin and iced tea) orthe harder-hitting Calibri Rojo (afruity tequila concoction with basiland vanilla). Food includes tapassuch as pan-fried saganaki withlemon sorbet, or pizzas. Try theUrban Chick topped with chicken,spinach, fior de latte, almonds andgarlic-infused mushrooms — adelicious stinker but best avoided ifyou’re out to impress.
Flash tapas on the Yarra
Sotano (Hilton Melbourne SouthWharf; sotano.com.au)Open: Mon-Sun, noon-late
Spain’s culinary influence is all tooevident here, with a 2500-bottle winecellar suspended from the ceilingand a 4.4-metre-tall charcuterie towerpacked with cured meats andcheeses. There’s an outside areaoverlooking the Yarra. It has hightables, red bar stools and white pillarcandles in rusty holders — all verycool. The drinks and food aredeconstructed wonders; mixologistGrant Collins has worked his magicto give the cocktails a modern,molecular twist.
Sotano isn’t a budget night out butquality is outstanding.Drink and eat The twisted white orred sangria (Collins invented araspberry puree sphere that sits atthe bottom of the jug and slowlydisperses, giving a fruity kick frombeginning to end), any of thealcoholic granitas or Collins’ newsherry cocktails — the perfectaccompaniment to the sharingboards of melt-in-the-mouth ibericoham and salami.
There’s modern tapas such aspotato crisps with truffle honey, orbraised bull tail with white pearlonion. Look out for the paella pansthat will be al fresco this summer.
Underground cool, overground
Match Bar & Grill (249 LittleLonsdale Street; matchbar.com)Open: Mon-Thurs, 4pm-late;Fri-Sat, 3pm-late (opening for lunchdaily and on Sundays noon-midnightat the end of February)
Match has an outside decking spaceoverlooking the State Library andSwanston Street.
Most of its walls are glass so atnight, you’re treated to anilluminated vista. Graffiti and postersadorn the walls and all interior pieceswere gathered from various Londonclubs — 1970s retro chic mixed withmodern Melbourne cool.Drink and eat Summer buckets —retro holders such as glass gobletsand champagne buckets, filled withinnovative cocktails — get the girlsaround. There’s also an Enomaticwine system, aka the wine tunnel, aconstantly changing selection ofwhites and reds all twinkling at you.Buy credit and off you go. You get agenerous taster for $3, or buy a fullglass; someone will be on hand toanswer questions. Match also serveswines selected by Matt Skinner.Much of the bar and restaurant foodintermingle — wagyu bresola;Parisian burger served with bonemarrow and gruyere cheese; andValrhona chocolate fondant. It’s bar-raising bar food by chef Paul Wilson.
Beer lovers unite
The Local Taphouse (184 CarlisleStreet, St Kilda East; thelocal.com.au)Open: Noon-1am, daily
The Local has a welcomingatmosphere. Downstairs, there’swooden furniture and comfy sofasbut it’s upstairs that it comes into itsown, with wooden wall panelling,books and wooden tram-car seating.The room opens on to a simplerooftop terrace with exposed brick.The star of this show though is thebeer. The tap list is changed regularly(sometimes daily) and features aninternational mix with a strongAustralia/Victoria preference. Ifyou’re unsure, grab the beer bookthat will tell you all you need toknow, or ask the knowledgeable staff.Drink and eat If you want to try afew of the speciality brews then gofor the tasting panel — it showcasesfive beers, with some crackers tocleanse the palate. There’s seasonal,hearty fare with a cooking-with-beerslant. Try the meatballs cooked witha German smoked beer, or thechocolate mousse made with adouble-chocolate stout.
Cocktails with a view
Campari House (23-25 HardwareLane; camparihouse.com.au)Open: Restaurant 11am-11pm,Mon-Fri; 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun;rooftop noon-11pm, Sun-Wed;noon-12.30am, Thurs-Sun
Campari Bistro was aninstitution that closed fiveyears ago. New ownersrefurbished the building,adding two levels. Itretains its name androots (pasta, breads,infused oils andflavoured salts are
made in-house) but has been given amodern twist. There’s a rooftop barwith artificial turf, wooden tables andstools. It’s finding its feet but isworth a look.Drink and eat Campari House’sshare plates are a great option if youjust want to graze (try the arancini ofporcini thyme and goat’s cheese) andthere are ‘‘grown-up’’ cocktails suchas the Italian Sunrise (SmirnoffBlack, Campari and limoncelloshaken with orange and sours) tosup on the roof.
Spanish sophistication
MoVida Terrazza (Level 1,500 Bourke Street, access via LittleBourke Street; movida.com.au)Open: Mon-Wed, 7am-3.30pm;Thurs and Fri, 7am until late
This is a terrace in the true sense ofthe word. It’s elevated above thestreet and, with its big, brownumbrellas, is sunny-day heaven.MoVida Terrazza is a more casuallittle cousin of adjacent diner MoVidaAqui (see page 7 for a review). Whilesunning on benches or nibblingtapas at high tables, customers get aknockout view of the century-olddome of the law courts. It’s a vantagepoint of an oft-forgotten landmark.Drink and eat Mediterranean andSpanish nibbles and meals are on
offer for breakfast, lunchand supper (Thurs and Fri).
The lunch menu has achoice of bocadillo(Spanish bread) withseveral fillings, salads orlight dishes. Try the
tortilla ($3) and ensalada(salad) of fig, green beans
and manchego cheese ($13).Beer is on tap and bottled
($8 for top Barcelonadrop Moritz). Wine by
the glass ($6.50-$9).