A COTTAGER’S GUIDE TOWATERFRONT FRIENDLY DOCKS

THE DOCK PRIMER

PRAIRIES EDITION

Produced byFisheries and Oceans Canada

in association withCottage Life

FISHERIES AND OCEANS CANADAFish Habitat Management Program - Prairies Area

7646-8 Street NE, Calgary, AB T2E 8X4Web site: www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/oceans-habitat/

COTTAGE LIFE54 St. Patrick Street, Toronto, ON M5T 1V1

Web Site: www.cottagelife.com

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Cat No. Fs23-506/2-2008E-PDFISBN 978-0-662-48008-2

Cette publication est également disponible en français.

Printed on recycled materials

THE DOCK PR I MER

PAGE 3

TABLE OF CONTENTSPAG E 4

GETTING STARTED • What are your shoreline needs?

PAG E 7

THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME• The limits to thin

• Between a dock and a hard place• Dock materialism

PAG E 1 2

DOCK TYPES • Removable Docks • Permanent Docks • Specialty Docks

PAG E 2 0BUILDING YOUR DOCK:HOW TO DO IT RIGHT

• Getting approvals, making amends• Tips for easing the proce

PAG E 2 2FURTHER READING

PAG E 2 3CONTACTS

It is part of the waterfrontexperience…sitting on your dockwatching the sun set and having aplace to tie up your canoe or motor

boat. Perhaps your shoreline already has a dock but it is badly in need of repair,or perhaps you do not have a dock andwould like to add one to your waterfront.For whatever reason, you may be thinkingof building or replacing a dock along yourshoreline.

Building a residential dock is not a difficult process. In fact, constructing a dock can be easy when you know whatfactors to consider and you are preparedwith some basic information. Fortunately,building a safe and stable dock is only a little more difficult than building a badone, and with the right design, you canhave a dock that meets your waterfrontneeds while minimizing impacts to fishhabitat. This primer points both theconfirmed do-it-yourselfer and the equallyconfirmed purchase-it-yourselfer in thedirection of good docks and good dock-building practices. It also explains how to avoid some potentially damagingand costly errors. For the full scoopon docks - including plans andfull construction techniques -check out additional references orconsult experts to get you started.

The most important thing to knowabout dock construction is that no dock isa stand-alone structure. A dock has to work

in harmony with that sometimes uneasymarriage of land and water known as yourshoreline, and with the various uses youand your family envision for that shoreline.No two sites are alike so your dock shouldbe designed to fit the characteristics of yourshoreline. Is your site on a windy pointwith a lot of wave action? Or is it tuckedaway in a quiet bay? Is the shoreline mainlybedrock or do you have a sandy or muckyshoreline? The answers to these kinds ofquestions will help to determine thestructural requirements for your dock.The best way to start is by taking note ofyour shoreline’s prominent features andthen making a detailed map of it all.Graph paper is the preferred media formap-making novices, as a scale can easilybe assigned to the squares, such as one (1)centimetre square equals five (5) metres,or whatever is needed to fit your cottageshoreline onto paper.

A detailed map of your shoreline is your most valuable tool in building a dock.For one thing, you probably do not want

to build your neighbours a dock,which can happen when yourcarefully constructed masterpiece

ends up on the wrong side of aproperty line (it happens).Also, no matter where yourwaterfront is located, chances

are you will need to get approvalfrom at least one government department

- probably several.PAGE 4

T H E D O C K P R I M E R

GETTING STARTED

Having a map of your site with theproposed project neatly drawn out cutsdown on the red tape (see “Building YourDock: How To Do It Right,” p. 20). Yetthe best reason to map your shoreline isthat it greatly eases the task of choosing thelocation, type, and size of dock best suitedto your needs and budget, whether you arebuilding it yourself or hiring a professional.

Begin the mapping process by locatinglot lines and measuring any structures, suchas the cottage or pumphouse. Mark yourfindings on the map. Do the same for theshape of the shoreline, the direction ofprevailing winds and currents, the bestviews of the lake and shoreline, and thetopography and vegetation on the landrising from the water and the water depthmoving away from the land, noting theshoreline’s makeup (rock, sand, mud) at 5,10, and 15 metre intervals. Also mark the location of submerged

navigational hazards such as rocks and sandbars. Note frequently used areas such ashorseshoe pits or swimming areas, alongwith water-intake lines, power lines andtelephone lines.

If you are aware of shoreline nestingsites for waterfowl (remember the ducklingsthat swam by in the spring?) and fishspawning areas or wetlands, mark theseareas on the map but do not include anyas-yet-to-be-constructed docks - yet.Do, however, take pictures of the shorelinearea throughout the various seasons of theyear. While your cottage may only be asummertime retreat, the shoreline is thereall year and spring ice can tear apartanything that you might decide to add -even reinforced concrete bunkers. If you arenew to the area, ask the neighbours aboutthe ice; they will be able to tell you what to expect, which could save you time andmoney.

G e t t i n g S t a r t e d

Before you pick up a hammer, pickup a pencil and make a detailed

site plan of your waterfront.

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WHAT ARE YOUR SHORELINENEEDS?

At this stage, what you have is the“before” plan; the shoreline as it exists priorto any dock additions. Now, look into thefuture - not at structures, but at uses.Remember that the dock only facilitatesyour needs. Make a wish list of shorelineneeds. Perhaps you need a place to moorthe boat (how big is it?), perhaps a place to swim, fish, launch a canoe, andsunbathe; maybe just a spot to sit and watch the world drift by, or anycombination of the above and more.Your needs and what you have in the wayof waterfront property should dictate theshape, size, and type of dock, not what thelocal lumberyard happens to have in stock.Obviously, finances also play a role, but as we will see, docks are usually modulardevices, allowing you to add and rearrangedock sections over time. So rather than

compromise your dreams with asubstandard design that the kids love to use as a floating roller coaster and oldermembers of the family refuse to board,complete your dream in stages as yourfinances permit.

A successful shoreline structure alsopays homage to its surroundings. The bodyof water fronting your property existsbecause of a delicate balance in nature that has evolved over many millennia.That narrow band of earth known as theshoreline - an interdependent strip thatincludes the water and both exposed andsubmerged lands - is the most ecologicallysensitive piece of the planet that many ofus are ever likely to encounter. It is also the reason we have chosen to inhabit thissmall piece of planet earth. Unfortunately,anything we do at or near the shorelinewill inevitably disrupt the balance,sometimes destroying not only theshoreline, but also water quality and manyof the countless plants and animals thatdepend on that shore area for existence.

The goal in successful dock buildingis to minimize or even eliminateimpact. The preservation of ashoreline’s charm and abundantlife, and the realization of our

waterfront dreams, need not bemutually exclusive goals. With abit of planning and use of proper

dock-building practices, bothgoals can be achieved.

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G e t t i n g S t a r t e d

The most common dock shape isthe rectangle. It is, after all, thesimplest and most economicalshape to build. But often there

are better choices, both from the shoreline’sperspective and that of our cottage wishlist. Fortunately, most variations are basedon the rectangle, often with one or morerectangular sections joined together tomake a more stable, useful, and attractivedock.

In most cases, dockstability increases with size.It is simply a matter ofpercentages - the bigger the dock, the smaller theimpact your visit, or nature’sdisturbances for that matter,will have on it. But it is also true that as dock sizeincreases, so too does the riskof harming nature. Althoughthey have a seemingly benignfootprint, all docks possessthe potential to harm aquaticecosystems, disruptingcurrents enough to erodesubmerged lands andshorelines (including thosebelonging to yourneighbours), blockingsunlight from the aquaticplants below, and disturbingsubmerged lands. These

changes may be small, but they can resultin harm to habitat for plants, invertebrates,fish and other aquatic species. Then thereis the connection of dock to shoreline anddock to cottage, both of which can disruptthat delicate ecological balance. The biggerthe dock, the greater the potential formayhem. “Bigger” also costs more toconstruct and maintain. So big docks arebad, right? Maybe. The problem is, build a dock too small and not only is stability

compromised, it might alsofail to serve your needs.That is why that map of your shoreline is soimportant - it makes it easier for both you and thevarious regulatory authoritiesto choose and approve the dock best suited to bothyour needs and theshoreline’s needs.

Make a list of theactivities you haveenvisioned for the dock, asthese often dictate minimumsize requirements. Forinstance, while consideredsmall craft, both sailboardsand canoes can becomeserious dock hogs when outof water, demanding plentyof deck-acreage to swingaround and launch.

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T H E D O C K P R I M E R

THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME

L-shape

U-shape

T-shape

DOCK SHAPES

That said, if your shoreline includes a usable beach, some things - such asswimming zones and sailboard storage,may be best assigned to the beach,reducing demands on dock size. If theshoreline has no usable beach - wherewater and land meet at a steep cliff forexample - the dock then takes on the role of a beach.

A smaller dock may be sufficient if youonly need to accommodate a canoe andsimply want a place for swimming ordiving. If big boats are in the picture, thereis little point in opting for a small dock.Should nature make waves, and the dock is not up to the task, it is goodbye to bothdock and boat.

THE LIMITS TO THIN

With the exception of finger docks,1 metre (approximately 3.3 feet) is thepractical minimum width for any dock.You need that much room for two peopleto pass without risking one, or both, beingbumped into the drink. Also, as you willsee in our discussion of thevarious dock types, mostdocks have minimum sizerequirements and stabilitysuffers if you try to gosmaller.

If your needs aremodest, the basicrectangle may be yourbest option. However,by adding a secondrectangular sectionperpendicular tothe first dock (atthe deep end), theresulting T-shapeor L-shape adds todock stability - liketraining wheels on abicycle - and the shape

created helps to define designated activityareas. For example, one end of a T-shapecould be set aside for sunbathing, whilesplashing and diving are moved to theother end. The shapes can also “capture”protected areas of water to moor boats or create a children’s wading area.

Breaking away from the basic rectangleallows us to direct foot and boat traffic andactivity patterns, reducing dock congestion.Therefore, less deck-acreage is required toaccomplish the same goals. This means lesscost, less impact on the environment, andusually, a more attractive shoreline. As abonus, those additional rectangles can beadded or subtracted over time as needs -and finances - change.

What should not be considered for budgetary reasons are finger docks.Finger docks are long and skinnyrectangles that run out from a much largermain dock or breakwall. They are designedto provide the maximum number of slips(stalls to moor a boat) in a given area, notto save on construction costs. Because ofthe reduced width (sometimes down to

half a metre), finger dockswiggle around just

like fingers andprovide wobblyaccess to boats,but not muchelse. If youractivity listdemands greaterversatility, or if

you do not relishthat impending

doom feeling of atippy dock, stay away

from finger docks.

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T H E D O C K P R I M E R

BETWEEN A DOCK AND A HARD PLACE

The main problem docksexperience is one shared witheverything else in the universe: entropy,or the idea that a system (in this case thedock) will move towards increasingdisorder (or in a dock’s case, disrepair).Wood, metal, plastic, concrete, and evennature’s own bedrock - all the basicingredients of dock building - are allunder continual assault from two verydestructive forces - stress and decay. Theeffects of stress (the result of visitingboaters bashing into the dock, or naturehurling up huge waves, or spring icepounding at your shoreline) can bereduced by evenly distributing the loads(weight or pressure). For a dock to surviveto its maximum life expectancy, all loadsmust be shared by as much of thestructure as possible. That is constructionrule number one.

Decay is often a keen partner to stresswhen it comes to destruction. Wood rots,plastic degrades, concrete chips andcracks, metal corrodes, rock erodes - it isall part of nature’s regenerative process.

Generally, decay thrives in anenvironment of warmth, a little moisture,and a little oxygen, all readily available atyour local shoreline. Too much or notenough of any of these ingredients anddecay moderates its attack. The secret tolongevity therefore, is proper design anduse of quality materials to discourage theonset and growth of decay. That isconstruction rule number two.

DOCK MATERIALISM

Wood Wood is the most commonmaterial used in residential dockconstruction. It is relatively easy to workwith, reasonably priced, and has some“give,” allowing it to bend slightly

under duress.It is also at its strongest under short-

term loads (such as when your neighbouraccidentally hits the dock with his new skiboat), a decided advantage to waterfrontstructures. As well, structures made ofwood are usually easy to rebuild shouldnature prove its strength once again.

On the other hand, wood is at its worst down at the waterfront - wet and fat one moment, dry and skinny the next.Therefore, joining pieces of wood in dockbuilding requires different techniques thanthe accepted practices of house carpentry.

The preferred deck woods for dockbuilding are western red cedar, redwood,cypress, and eastern white cedar (in thatorder), all of which offer reasonablelongevity and beauty. For most docks, thatis also the preferred structural list, but fordock cribs and permanent piles, strongerwoods, such as Douglas fir, hemlock, andtamarack (in that order) are a betterchoice. Unfortunately, this group is not asresistant to rot as the first. For permanentpiles, western larch, pine, and even sprucecan be used if fir is not available.

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While realwood shouldbe used foryour dock’sframing,plastic lumbercan be an excellentchoice for decking. When installed properly, it can offer a long working life.

T h e S h a p e o f T h i n g s t o C o m e

CEDAR

PLASTIC

PRESSURE-TREATED

The better decking species, beingnaturally resistant to rot, will outlastspecies such as spruce, but what ifthe bank account will not acceptthat logic and it demands acheaper solution? That iswhen we compromise.One way to do this -already mentioned - is toreduce the deck acreage ortry to extend the life of lessergrades of wood.

Unfortunately, the standardroute to wood preservation - paintand stain - is not the answer fordocks. Any coating you put on a dock will fade, blister, and peel.Not only will this look terrible, butdamaged coatings also trap water, creatingan ideal spot for wood-destroying fungi togrow. To make matters worse, paint flakescan be toxic to many aquatic organisms,including fish. So you can either scrapeand re-coat the dock every few years,or use preferred wood species and do as many dock builders advise - take the lowmaintenance option and let the wood gonaturally grey.

Pressure Treating What aboutpressure treated wood; that greenalternative seen on countlessdecks and suburban retainingwalls? Pressure-treated pine orspruce is about 20-30% less expensivethan the preferred decking species,such as cedar, but becausethe grades of lumberset aside fortreatment are usuallylow, pressure-treatedwood is typically moresusceptible to warping andcracking when exposed toweather than the untreated

decking species, and even someof the structural species, suchas fir.

Because it can leachchemicals into theenvironment, pressure-treated wood is banned for waterfront use in some

areas and, in all cases,construction should take

place well back fromthe shoreline withthe finished dockbeing left tothoroughly dry and

“age” before beinglaunched into the

water. Working withpressure-treated wood is difficult; thesawdust is considered toxic, and each cut end must be sealed with an approvedpreservative, all of which exposes thebuilder (not to mention the flora and fauna living in the water) to some nastychemicals.

Chemical wood preservatives mostcommonly used in pressure-treated lumber

are alkaline copper quaternary(ACQ) and copper azole

(CA). Creosote-treatedwood should not be used

in or near water. Beforeyou buy, ask your local

building supply outlet for moreinformation about

environmentally friendlypressure-treated wood products.

A reasonable compromise is to usepressure-treated wood for the

structure of the dock, keeping the preferred species for thedecking, thereby lessening the

odds of exposing skin to potentiallyharmful chemicals.

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T H E D O C K P R I M E R

Plastic Plastic has become acommon building material fordocks. Compared with mostwoods, metals, or concrete,the types of plastic used in dock construction arerelatively low in strength and lack hardness, whichrules them out for structuralduties. Plastic is however,the primary material for dockfloats, and when supported by an appropriate structure -typically made from wood,metal, or concrete - plasticmaterials can be used fordecking. Plastic is also waterproofand decay-resistant, a decidedadvantage when it comes todock construction.

The cost of plasticdecking usually fits somewherebetween cedar and pressure-treated wood, although somevariations are more expensivethan even the preferred species of wood decking. Typically,plastic decking comes intraditional “planks” of solidpolyethylene (PE), extrusionsmade from polyvinylchloride(PVC), and composites of recycled PE and woodbyproducts. Unfortunately,all plastic decking has apropensity to sag, which meansthat decking cannot extend across the spans of traditional dock designs (check with the decking’s manufacturer).

HARDWARE

The importance of goodhardware in building docks

cannot be stressed enough.Dock “hardware” is that

bewildering array of metalbrackets (usually steel) used tobrace corners and joints, connectdock and ramp sections, hold the

legs of pipe docks in place,and basically add strength

to any dock connection underload. Technically, it doesnot fasten planks together;

it leaves that task to the nails, screws,nuts, and bolts. Instead, once secured in

place with nuts and bolts and the like,dock hardware shares and transfersloads, diminishing stress at crucial

junctures. Joints that are nailed orscrewed together without the benefit

of dock hardware will inevitably pull apart.It does not make sense to

waste your time and moneyon second-rate hardware -

whether it is your own creation(sorry), a piece of metal being

used for a duty it was notdesigned for (such as barn-door hinges used to joinsections of dock), or evenmost hardware sold frommass-merchandising outlets.Whether you are buyingindividual pieces oracquiring the hardware

as part of a completed dock or in a kit,look for good-quality hardware designedspecifically for dock building. It is anexpense you will never regret.

As for fasteners, screws and bolts hold a dock together much better than nails.The extra cost is minimal, but the increasein strength is not.

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T h e S h a p e o f T h i n g s t o C o m e

High quality hardware,like galvanized cornerbrackets, heavy-dutyhinges, and corrosionresistant nuts, bolts, andscrews is crucial if youwant a long-lasting dock.

Although nature considers alldocks to be removable, floatingdocks and pipe docks are theonly ones cottagers usually

consider removing, either for repairs or toprotect the dock from the ravages of winterice and spring breakup. Given Canada’sclimate, that means removable docks areextremely popular.

REMOVABLE DOCKS

Floating Docks Floating docks arerelatively easy and economical to build,adaptable to most shorelines and, becausethey are held up by the water, the distancebetween the top of the dock’s deck and thesurface of the water - known as freeboard -remains fairly constant, varying only withdock load and high seas (being minimal on a well-designed and well-built floater).Since a floating dock is not dependent onsubmerged lands to hold it up, the addedbenefit is that there is no maximumwater depth that prevents its use.

From an environmentalperspective, floating docks causeminimal direct disruption tosubmerged lands; disruptiontypically caused by anchors,spuds, or pilings (the mostpopular ways to moor afloating dock in place).In fact, if secured to theshore only, there may be

no contact with submerged lands at all.However, floating docks can block sunlightto aquatic plants - altering fish habitat - and they may also cause the erosion ofshorelines. This means that floating dockswill not work everywhere. To minimizedamage to the shoreline, a floating dockmust have sufficient buoyancy to keep its floats resting on water, rather thanbumping into submerged lands (which canharm both the dock and aquatic habitat).A depth of 1 metre (approximately 3.3feet) (measured at the low-water mark) is the normal accepted minimum however,less depth may be possible if the waterlevel never varies and the area is notsubject to harsh wave action.

Floating docks often lack stability but itis not impossible to make a stable floater -hundreds of good designs exist; some

so stable a user could mistake the dock underfoot for a waterfront boardwalk.Unfortunately, the number

of unstable disasters outthere is great due to poorconstruction practices.When it comes tostability, a floating dockworks best when it ismade long, wide, low,and heavy. Remember

to look for a design thatwill achieve this stability without causingharm to fish habitat.

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T H E D O C K P R I M E R

DOCK TYPES

The consensus among dock builders is that 1.8 metres (approximately 6 feet) x 6.1 metres (approximately 20 feet) is the minimum size for a stable floater;this single section weighing in at about 450 kilograms (approximately 1000 lbs)minimum. And bigger is even better forstability.

As usual, the drawbacks to bigger areincreased initial cost, increased labour for installation (and removal) and ofcourse, greater impact on the shoreline’secosystem. A pipe dock - which can bemade smaller and still remain stable - may

be a preferable choice in shallow water.In areas where ice conditions prohibit

a four-season solution, the floating dockoffers the advantage that it can be removedfrom the water in the fall and replaced inthe spring (albeit with no small effort insome cases). That said, many floaters areleft in all year where wave action and iceconditions permit.

In addition to size and shape, float type and float location also contribute to stability. A discussion of float types is beyond the scope of this booklet but as a general rule, installing floats towards the

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For maximumstability, a floatingdock should beheavily built andsolidly anchored.

D o c k Ty p e s

T H E D O C K P R I M E R

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Because they have littlecontact with submerged

lands, pipe docks are easy onthe aquatic environment.

perimeter of the dock, rather than set back towards the dock’s centre line,greatly enhances stability.

Pipe Docks If you can imagine a 1 metrewide wooden ramp sitting about a quarterof a metre above the water, supported bylong skinny legs running from the rampdown to submerged land, you have justmentally built a pipe dock. Building one in reality is only a little more difficult,and not a lot more expensive (pipe docksare typically the least costly dock option).As most of the dock sits out of water,contact with the land and shading ofaquatic vegetation is typically held to a minimum, making a simple pipe dock the least disruptive to the environment of all the dock types.

Unlike the floating dock, the pipe dock is stationary, therefore, the distancebetween the dock and the water varies asthe water rises and falls. Should the lake or river at your shoreline do a gentle retreatthrough the season, the pipedock’s deck can usually belowered on its legs toaccommodate moderatefluctuations in water levels,and even more extremefluctuations can sometimes be handled by relocating thedock further out on theshoreline. (The dock’s lightweight is a real advantagehere). Some pipe dock legscan also be fitted with wheelsto make moving the dock an even easier task. Be awarethat the slightest amount ofice movement can fold up apipe dock like an accordion,so plan on moving the dockat least twice a year (the morefavourable option), or onbuying a new one eachspring.

Because a pipe dock’s deck and framingremain elevated above the water, there is very little surface area exposed at the waterline for nature to damage.This makes the pipe dock a good candidatefor situations where plenty of surfaceactivity is experienced, such as on busy river channels where the wakes frompassing boats may be a problem.However, with waves passing under thedock unobstructed, any boat moored to the opposite side will be exposed to the full brunt of wave action.

Severe wave action can put some of the lighter aluminum pipe docks at risk.However, lighter construction also meansless labour to install and remove the dock,and less initial cost to purchase. And in the right situation - a protected bay forinstance - a lightweight pipe dock iscertainly up to the task of mooring smallerboats. For larger vessels and harsher waveaction, boat lifts or marine railways are a better choice.

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D o c k Ty p e s

Where ice and currents permit, rock-filled cribs canmake a solid dock foundation.

Because a pipe dock is propped up onlegs, it can be built smaller than a floatingdock yet still remain stable. The basic rulefor pipe docks is that the width of the dockshould be at least 1 metre (approximately3.3 feet) and never less than the depth ofthe water. Because stability suffers as legsget longer, about 2 metres (6-7 feet) isconsidered the maximum water depth forpipe dock installations. Choose one of theother dock types - such as a floating dock -for deeper water.

PERMANENT DOCKS

Residential permanent docks (asopposed to commercial wharves) can bedivided into three categories: crib docks,concrete piers, and permanent pile docks.The term “permanent dock” is more areflection of objective than reality, becausepermanence is not a concept recognized by nature. Shifting ice can topple cribs,lift piles right out of submerged land,and push concrete piers up onto shore.However, blessed with sound constructiontechniques and the appropriate conditions,a permanent dock can serve faithfully,perhaps even for several generations.

Because freeboard will vary withfluctuations in water level, permanentdocks are often used in conjunction withfloating docks, the floaters attached to the

more permanent structure in a manner thatpermits the floater to move up and downin concert with changing water levels.

Crib Docks A “crib” is a container.In the context of waterfront construction,a crib holds a few tons of rock and stone.Cribs should not be confused withgabions. Gabions are inexpensive wire or plastic mesh baskets designed to holdstones, rock, or concrete; the baskets wiredtogether to serve as unattractive retainingwalls. At first glance, they may seem like a good idea for dock building, but time hasproven gabions to be better at tearing skinthan retaining rock under siege by strongcurrents, waves, and ice, all of which willdistort the basket’s shape, causing thegabion to sag and flatten.

A proper crib is built from new, square-cut timber, not wire or driftwood or roundlogs tacked together with small nails andhope. (Occasionally, steel or concretecastings are used in lieu of wood).The timbers are assembled in opposingpairs, one pair laid out on top of the next,creating a slatted, box-like affair with anintegral floor. Threaded rods run the fullheight in each corner to secure the timbersin place. The box is then filled with rock.

Maximum water depth for a crib isabout 2.5 metres (approximately 8 feet).For optimum stability, a crib’s total heightshould at least equal its total width.Obviously, this can make for a very largecontainer, which in turn needs a ton or more of rock to fill it, and all of thisrock must be taken from onshore sources,not from close-at-hand submerged lands(which would disrupt fish habitat).For this reason, and from an environmentalstandpoint, cribs should be placed abovethe ordinary high water mark, using the strength of the crib as an anchor or attachment point for other structures such as floating docks, cantilever docks or

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T H E D O C K P R I M E R

Concrete piers are expensive andenvironmentally destructive.

pipe docks. (On a lakeshore,the ordinary high water markis the highest point to whichwater customarily rises, andwhere the vegetation changesfrom mostly aquatic species to terrestrial). If however,cribs must be placed in thewater, leave at least 2 metres (6-7 feet) between them, andlocate them at least 2 metresfrom the ordinary high watermark. This will allow near-shore water to circulate aroundthe structures.

From an environmentalperspective, floating and pipedocks are preferred to cribdocks, since crib docks cancover over sensitive spawninghabitat and result in theremoval of rocks and logs that provide shelter.

Concrete Piers The concrete pier is basically a big block of cement andaggregate, bound together, often with anintegral boat ramp. Most often, they arefound in commercial or municipal settings.

As with crib-based docks, practical water depths are limited to about about 2.5 metres (approximately 8 feet), and the piers can be merged into shorelines to provide a shoreline interface for other types of docks.

However, concrete piers are expensive to construct,and no dock does a better job of disrupting the environment.Erosion of submerged lands at the base of the pier can often be a problem too, and unlike the slatted sides of the crib,the concrete pier provides nosubstitute home for refugeeaquatic life. Because they take over the areas where fish feed,rest, and hide from predators,you should only considerdesigning a concrete pier when no other alternative is feasible.In most cases, there are bettersolutions for residential docks.

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D o c k Ty p e s

Sunk deep in the ground,piles made of wood, steel,or plastic make a greatbase for a stable dock.

Cantilever docksdo not disturb the water orsubmerged lands.

Permanent Pile Docks The permanentpile dock is a heavyweight, long-termversion of the pipe dock - still a ramp on long legs, but definitely not portable.Instead of resting on the surface ofsubmerged lands (as the legs of pipe docksdo), long poles of wood or tubes of steel or plastic - all referred to as piles - are sunkinto the earth, either by force or by beingset in pre-drilled holes. Either way, becauseof the heavy-duty equipment required,a pile dock is not the stuff of homeworkshop projects.

Piles should always be braced toprevent sway, and although there areno theoretical limits to depth, if theexposed portion of the pile extends 7.5 metres (approximately 25 feet) or more above supportive soil,construction costs will skyrocket.

The permanent pile dock sharesmany of the environmental advantagesof the pipe dock - minimal contactwith submerged lands, free flow ofwater underneath, and the ability to build a relatively narrow dock thatis still quite stable.

SPECIALTY DOCKS

Specialty docks include cantileverdocks, suspension docks, and lift docks.

These docks can be dramatic to beholdand expensive to purchase. Some designand construction similarities exist betweenspecialty docks and the docks discussedabove, but specialty docks are morecomplex, typically making theirconstruction and installation beyond theskills of even many professional dockbuilders. These are not docks that lendthemselves well to the average tinkerer.

Cantilever and Suspension Docks Thecantilever dock works in the same manneras an overhanging apartment buildingbalcony: the dock’s frame stretches fromshore, over the fulcrum point, and then out over the water. The maximum lengthof the dock, and the proportion of thelength that is land-based, is determined by how well the land-based end - the endthat supports the load - is tagged to theshore. Customarily, a cantilevered dockrequires 0.5 metres (approximately 2 feet)of onshore dock for every 0.25 metres(approximately 1 foot) hanging beyond the fulcrum, although cantilever docks can be incorporated into wood bulkheads(walls built parallel to, and usually at, theshoreline) using a leverage ratio as little as 0.25 metres (approximately 1 foot) onshore for every 0.25 metres of overhang,and even less when the land-based end is embedded into a concrete bulkhead or solid bedrock.

The suspension dock, on the otherhand, has more in common with a massivesuspension bridge than an apartmentbalcony. Picture half a Golden Gate Bridgebut instead of connecting two bits of landtogether, it connects one bit of land towater and your boat. Think of it as the“Golden Gate Dock”.

Unlike the cantilever dock, a suspensiondock’s deck does not rely on large chunksof shoreline for support. Instead, arectangular tower holds up a pair of cables

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A tower and thick cables keep asuspension dock up in the air.

anchored well back on shore to keep the deck suspended over the water (justlike the entrance to the aforementionedbridge). Both cantilever and suspensiondocks sit completely out of the water, soneither dock demands a minimum depthof water for installation. Since freeboardwill vary with water level fluctuations,cantilever and suspension docks are not the answer for locations that experienceextreme water level fluctuations.

Both dock types have practical limits tothe length of overhang: About 2.5 metres(approximately 8 feet) for cantilever docks(which normally equates to a minimum of 5 metres (approximately 16 feet) ofonshore decking), and about 15 metres(approximately 50 feet) for the suspensiondock. Greater distances are not consideredcost effective.

A short cantilevered overhang of about0.25 - 0.5 metres (approximately 1-2 feet)can work very well along bulkheads, cribs,and the like. When a large, shore-baseddeck is desirable (such as over a boulder-strewn shoreline), the cantilever dock again becomes a reasonable option.

Cantilever and suspension docks cause the least disruption to the water orsubmerged lands - it is difficult to disruptwhat you do not touch. However, as withfloating docks, the resulting shading of the aquatic environment could alter aquaticlife. Also, both dock types will disturb theshoreline, particularly the cantilever dock,which in turn has the potential to disruptboth aquatic and land-based life.

Lift Docks Lift docks come in three styles- lift pipe docks, lift floating docks, and liftsuspension docks - each based on the styleof the dock being lifted. The freeboard ofeach is the same as for non-lifting versions.

In concept, the lift dock appears tofunction much like the classic drawbridge.Yet while the drawbridge was historicallyraised to protect the castle from unwantedweekend guests, the lift dock gets raisedfor its own protection, hoisting it up out of reach of winter ice.

Size restrictions and environmentalimpact for the three versions of lift docksare the same as for their non-liftingcounterparts.

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With its decking removed, a lift pipe dock can simply bewinched up in the air to escapedamage from winter ice.

D o c k Ty p e s

The approval process begins with you. With the map of your shoreline and your wish list of shoreline needs spread

out on the kitchen table, use what you have learned about dock shapes and types

to look for solutions. How will a dockwork here? Perhaps it would be

better at the opposite end of theshoreline? Based on the terrain

- both submerged andabove-water - what type

of dock is best forboth you and the

environment?

What shape of dock will bestaccommodate your wish list of activities?Make copies of your original site map and let members of the family exploredifferent solutions. When consensus is reached, your next task is to find out if approvals are required.

GETTING APPROVALS, MAKING AMENDS

DFO has streamlined its review andapproval process by identifying certaindock-building activities that have a lowrisk to fish habitat. The first step is checkwhether your project meets the criteria

of an Operational Statement - DFO’sguidelines for work around water that

pose a low risk to fish habitat. If yourplan for a dock or boathouse meets theconditions laid out in an OperationalStatement, and it incorporates themeasures it advises to protect fish habitat,

then your project does not requirereview under the Fisheries Act.To see if your plans are lake-

friendly (or to find out how to makethem better), visit the DFO web site

at www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/oceans-habitat/.Once you are there, click on “Operational

T H E D O C K P R I M E R

BUILDING YOUR DOCK:HOW TO DO IT RIGHT

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Statements” (for dock and boathouseconstruction, beach creation, and so on).Check to see if the Operational Statementfor Dock and Boathouse Construction isapplicable in your province. You may bepleasantly surprised to learn that yourproject can pass “go” without acquiringDFO’s formal blessing.

If your project does not meet thestandards of an Operational Statement,(or the Operational Statement does notapply in your province) you will need tosubmit your plans for review to ensure that your dock project does not adverselyaffect fish habitat.

Where the dock is to be built in an areathat is on or adjacent to a National Park,then you will need to contact ParksCanada. And since the dock constructionand shoreline alteration can affect fishhabitat, you should also contact DFO to see whether approvals will be required.

Here is another stop you should makeon the approvals journey: If your project isin an area where there are aquatic speciesat risk, as defined by the Species at Risk Act(SARA), get in touch with your localDFO office to make sure that what youhave in mind is in compliance with SARA.A visit to www.sararegistry.gc.ca will help.Also, some municipalities now requirebuilding permits for dock construction,so you will need to check there as well.

Keep in mind that gaining approvalfrom one government department does not guarantee that you will be able toobtain approval from another governmentdepartment. It is important that you obtainall approvals before starting the work.

The size, shape, and location of yourdock - or perhaps even whether you canhave one at all - will all come under review so do not be surprised if you areasked to make some changes. By makingadjustments in the early stages - when your

dock is still in erasable pencil on paper - it is much easier and more economicalthan altering the finished work.

Do your planning the summer beforeyou want to begin the work, and file yourapplications (where required) in the fall.That way, you will have all of thepaperwork taken care of in time for the spring thaw.

What happens if you ignore all of this good advice? Not taking the properprecautions to ensure that your projectmeets provincial and federal requirementsmay result in a violation under the Fisheries Act and related legislation.First time offenders under the Fisheries Actcan receive a maximum fine of $300,000and possible jail time for subsequentconviction. As well, the courts often orderrestoration of the property to its originalstate.

TIPS FOR EASING THE PROCESS

Begin the mapping and design processin the summer when you can accuratelyassess current and proposed waterfrontactivities. Present your plan to governmentdepartments in the winter or late fall.This will allow adequate time for those in charge of approvals to look at yourproposal and suggest alternatives shouldthere be a problem. By getting all of thepaperwork taken care of when the lake isfrozen, you could be building your dock in the spring and sipping lemonade on itsdeck by summer. And no lemonade tastessweeter than that sipped from a deck chairon your own dock, as you take in the quietbeauty of your waterfront.

G e t t i n g A p p r o v a l s

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FURTHER READING

The Shore Primer Fisheries and Oceans Canada and Cottage LifeThe Shore Primer is an essential guide to healthy waterfronts,showing cottagers and other landowners how to protect andrestore their shorelines. A good compliment to The Dock Primer.

The Fish Habitat Primer Fisheries and Oceans CanadaThe Fish Habitat Primer is an essential guide to recognizingand respecting the environment on which fish depend to keeptheir - and our - waterways vibrant with life.

“Working Around Water?” – a series of fact sheets.

Operational Statements – a series of documentsdeveloped to streamline DFO’s regulatory review of low risk activities.

These publications, and more, are available electronically on the Fisheries and Oceans Canada (DFO) Web site atwww.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/oceans-habitat/. For a copy of any of these DFO publications, please contact your local DFO office (see “Contacts,” p. 23).

Aussi disposible en français.

T H E D O C K P R I M E R

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CONTACTS

Saskatchewan District

Regina 1804 Victoria Avenue EastRegina, SK S4N 7K3Tel: 306-780-8725Fax: 306-780-8722

Manitoba District

Winnipeg 501 University CrescentWinnipeg, MB R3T 2N6Tel: 204-983-5163Fax: 204-984-2402

Alberta District

Calgary 7646-8 Street NECalgary, AB T2E 8X4Tel: 403-292-5160Fax: 403-292-5173

Edmonton4253-97 StreetEdmonton, AB T6E 5Y7Tel: 780-495-4220Fax: 780-495-8606

Lethbridge J.D. Higenbotham Building204, 704-4 Avenue SouthLethbridge, AB T1J 0N8Tel: 403-394-2920Fax: 403-394-2917

Peace River 9001-94 StreetPeace River, AB T8S 1G9Tel: 780-618-3220Fax: 780-618-3235

Prince Albert125-32 Street WestPrince Albert, SK S6V 8E2Tel: 306-953-8777Fax: 306-953-8792

Dauphin 101-1 Avenue NWDauphin, MB R7N 1G8Tel: 204-622-4060Fax: 204-622-4066

Fisheries and Oceans Canada - Prairies Area Offices

March 2008

See inside back cover for complete listing of DFO Offices.