The Digging Fork Jan-Feb 2009

8/14/2019 The Digging Fork Jan-Feb 2009

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The Digging ForkA Davis Garden Newsletter

January - February 2009

January February

Planting

see

Plant Notes

Cool season hardy annuals

Perennials: CA natives,

most everything exceptfrost tender plants

Cool season vegetables:cilantro, potatoes (end ofmonth)

Bare-root plants: asparagus,artichokes, strawberries,

berries, rhubarb, grapes,fruit trees, ornamentaltrees, shrubs, vines, roses


Perennials: see January

Cool season vegetables:broccoli, cabbage, lettuce,cauliflower, cilantro,

potatoes, artichokes

Bare-root plants:see January

Warm season bulbs:gladiolus

Seedingdirectly

into the

garden

see

Plant Notes


Cool season vegetables:Cilantro, peas (late Jan., soakseed overnight, then pre-germinate4-5 days between moist papertowels)


Cool season vegetables: beets, carrots, cilantro,leeks, parsnips (presoak seedovernight), peas (soak, see Jan.)radish, Swiss chard,green onions

Seedinginside or

greenhouse

Planted in garden mid-April

Warm season vegetables:basil, eggplant, peppers,tomatillos, tomatoes

Warm season flowers

Planted in garden mid-April

Warm season vegetables:basil

Warm season flowers

Fertilize Citrus with citrus fertilizer

Pest &

Disease

Control

Spray nectarines and peacheswith fixed copper around

New Years Day to controlpeach leaf curl.

Spray fruit and nut trees,roses with dormant oil tocontrol over-wintering eggsand fungal spores.

Control for snails, slugs,

birds, earwigs and cabbageworms as needed.

When pruning, look for borerdamage and cut off infectedlimbs, especially on roses.

Spray nectarines and peacheswith fixed copper aroundValentines Day to control

peach leaf curl.

Dormant oil spray beforebuds show color (see Jan.)

Continue control of snails,slugs, birds, earwigs andcabbage worms.

When pruning, look for borerdamage and cut off infectedlimbs, especially on roses.

Tasks

see

Plant Notes

Prune: deciduous trees,shrubs, roses, fruit trees

(except apricots), grapes.(Dont prune spring floweringshrubs, trees, vines or onceblooming roses until after bloom)

Continue garden cleanup:pick up leaves, cut backherbaceous perennials(dont cut back frost tender

perennials until late spring),remove unwanted

seedlings or transplant,cultivate with diggingfork, weed and mulch

Divide and replantherbaceous perennials.

Order warm season bulbsfor spring planting

Frost protection continues.Dont prune frostdamaged plants until newgrowth begins.

Pruning continuesFinish pruning deciduoustrees.Finish pruning fruit trees

before they bloom.Finish pruning roses byValentines day.

Paint trunk & limbs ofnewly planted fruit treeswith diluted white latex

paint to protect them from

sunburn.Garden clean-up continuesand should be complete thismonth to enjoy the spring.

Divide & replant perennials

Warm season ornamentalgrasses: cut to the ground in

late winter to early spring,when new growth appears.

Frost protection continues(see Jan.)

Water Water under large eaves.Hydrated plants survive

frost better than dry ones!

Water under large eaves.

Check drip lines for leaksand flush them -- easiernow with less plant growth.

Spring is here! Flowering quince and daffodils blooming mid February.

Phenology and GardeningPhenology is the study of the annual cyclical events

of plants and animals. In a given location, naturallyoccurring events generally progress in the same orderyear after year and the dates are observed and

recorded. These might include the first observation ofthe monarch butterfly, the emergence date of leaves onthe crape myrtle trees or the first flowering of thepurple lupine on the banks of Hwy 113. Also possibleare the first sightings of migratory birds, the spurgeweed of summer, seed dispersal of larkspur orred/orange leaves on the Chinese pistache trees in fall.

As an example, Patricia has been observing (andsomewhat recording) the blooming of the first yellowdaffodils in her yard for the past 21 years. Her sonwas born on Feb 6 and every year since his birth therehas been at least one yellow daffodil blooming in the

yard on his birthday. Often there are many, many blooming! The natural timing of events varies fromyear to year as a response to the seasonal changes inrainfall, temperature, duration of sunlight, etc.

Phenology, a word derived from the Greekphainomai meaning to appear, is very much a part ofhistory. The Japanese and Chinese have beenrecording the blooming of the cherry blossoms,important in ancient festivals, for at least 1200 years.The winemakers of Europe have records of grapeharvest dates for the past 600 years. Hunter-gatherercivilizations all over the world use phenological

information to help them survive. Tracking theappearance of many plants and animals is veryimportant for their food, clothing and medicine.Currently, phenology is also a tool to help monitorglobal warming trends.

But, how is all this useful in our own gardens?Potential uses include:

-determining the best planting dates-weed control, emergence date of weeds-insect control and attracting beneficial insects-pollination of fruit trees and other crops-a better understanding of plant and animal interactions-designing gardens for seasonal color and wildlife


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For instance, gardeners have historically used thesigns of spring to help them decide optimal times toplant their crops. There are many folk sayings based onphenological events, but they are often only useful forspecific locations. When the daffodils begin to bloom itis time to plant peas. Peas are best planted in the fall inDavis, but another opportunity comes at the end ofJanuary to the first of February and this is when the

yellow daffodils are starting to bloom. When theblossoms of the apple tree begin to fall, plant your corn

seeds.The first planting of corn in our area is about theend of April. Is this when the apple blossoms arefalling?

Observing the annual timing of bloom, insectactivity and emergence of leaves and/or plants can helpus become more aware of natures cycles and tobecome better gardeners.

Organizations and universities all over the world arekeeping phenological records.www.attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/phenology.html

Check out Project Budburst for a way we can all help-USA National Phenology Network www.usanpn.org

Arroyo lupine & California poppies Cool season pansies

Plant sales, workshops & events

UCD ArboretumVolunteer Training Starts in January

Opportunities for naturalists (school programs), fix-itcrew, gardeners, nursery record-keepers and office help.For registration [email protected] 752-8324

Lots of great walks and tours coming up!!

Member Appreciation Sale March 14, 9 am to 1 pmFor information 752-4880 www.arboretum.ucdavis.edu

Davis Garden ClubPruning Speaker is Ben Schardt Jan 26, 7-9 pmProgram TBA February 23, 7-9 pmFor information 222-3052 www.davisgardenclub.org

Davis Central Park GardensGrow Seed Starts Indoors vegetables Jan. 10 9 amRose Pruning Techniques Jan. 10 10:30 amComposting and Vermiculture Feb. 14 9 amSelection, Care & Sharpening of Tools Feb. 14 10:30 amFor more information http://www.centralparkgardens.org

Woodland Library Rose ClubRose Pruning Seminar January 10 8:45 to 11 amLeake Room, Woodland Library. Bring pruning shears, gloves.Information Sue at (530) 666-0034 orhttp://www.cityofwoodland.org/gov/depts/library/roseclub/default.asp

City of Davis WorkshopsTree Pruning Workshops Jan. 10 or Jan. 24, 1 to 4 pm

$17 cost. Information www.cityofdavis.org 757-5626

Davis Compost Correspondence Class (free compost bin)

Information www.davisrecycling.org 757-5686Davis Ace HardwarePruning Clinic Saturday, Jan. 17 10 am and 2 pm

UCD Project Compost WorkshopsBackyard Composting January 24Worm Composting February 7For information contact Project Compost 754-8227

or http://projectcompost.ucdavis.edu/

Woodland College Classes and Short Courses:Fundamentals of Environmental Horticulture

Jan 20 to May 26 Tue/Thurs 5:30-6:65 pm

Plant PropagationJan 20 to May 26 Tue/Thurs 7:00-8:15 pm

Beginning Floral Design (short course)

Feb 27 to Mar 21 Fri 5:30-9:20 pm, Sat 8:30 am-1:45 pmFor information 661-5720, [email protected] or

www.yccd.edu for the fees required.

Master Gardener WorkshopsFruit Tree Training and Pruning Jan, 24, 10 am - 12 pmLandscape trees Selection, Planting and Establishment

Jan. 31, 10 am - 12 noonPropagation reduce gardening costs by propagating

your own seeds & cuttings Feb. 28, 10 am - 12 noonWorkshops are free and held at Woodland Community Collegehttp://ceyolo.ucdavis.edu/Gardening_and_Master_Gardening/

Davis Botanical SocietyBotanical Illustration Workshop

Saturdays, January 24 and 31, 9 am to 12 noon$45 for Society member and $55 nonmembersAdvanced registration required.

Botanical Teas in the HerbariumWed. Jan 28 and Feb 25, 4-6 pm

Information http://herbarium.ucdavis.edu

Davis Flower ArrangersUC Arboretum All-Stars Warren Roberts January 6, 7 pmMeetings at Eleanor Roosevelt Circle Community CenterFor information contact the President at 756-6722

Plant Sales at The Gifted GardenerFeb. 28 and Mar. 1 9 am to 3 pm

18th and J Streets, Sacramento. Sales benefits local charitiesInformation [email protected] (916) 923-3745

Friends of the Davis Library Book SaleFebruary 6 (noon-7 pm), 7 (10 am-5 pm), 8(10 am-3 pm)Often good finds on gardening books! $5/ bag on SundayInformation 757-5593

San Francisco Flower and Garden ShowMarch 18-22. Show is moving to San Mateo this year.

UCD Arboretum has transportation plus admissionfor Wed. March 18. Pre-registration, 752-4880

http://www.gardenshow.com/sf/index/index.asp

Ceanothus California Field Botanists AssociationLearn to key plants. Group meets about once a month

at UC Davis Center for Plant DiversityInformation www.ceanothusfieldbotanist.blogspot.com


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Forcing Flowering BranchesJanuary is often the dreariest month of the year here

in Davis, holiday excitement and color having passed.Although there certainly are flowers to be found, wehave to wait until February for the start of springshowiness. It is a perfect time to practice the old-fashioned art of forcing flowering branches - that is,bringing budding branches inside and convincing them

it is time to bloom and/or leaf. Many of us mayremember our grandmothers beautiful wintertimedisplays of flowering branches.

Forcing is done most readily with buds which haveformed the previous summer and have had a short period of dormancy. Forsythia and flowering quinceare two of the most commonly used. Some otherlikely candidates are deciduous fruit trees (apple,crabapple, pear, plum, cherry, peach, nectarine,apricot), almond, bridal wreath spirea, redbud, wisteria.Also, Japanese maple is a good example of forcing forfoliage. A branch cut closer to a plants typical

blooming time will take less time to begin flowering.Feel free, of course, to experiment with timing andother choices of deciduous plants.

The basic needs of these branches are light, warmthand, most of all, water. First, make sure to have a verysturdy, clean container in order to avoid a tippingdisaster! Choose substantial branches, commonly 1-3feet long, with many flower buds. A larger diameterstem equals more sugars to feed the flowers. Cut thebranch on the diagonal and remove the buds that will be underwater. Ideally, peel back or scrape off someof the bark and split the stem for about 1-2 from the

cut end. The point is to give the stem more access towater. Put the branches deeply into a container oftepid water (110F) and move it to a cool part of thehouse (60-65F) for several days before moving to itsfinal location. If the branches warm too quickly, thesap cannot rise properly and the branches will flowerweakly and dry up.

Newly cut stems drink a lot of water so make sureto check that there is always plenty of clean water andchange it if necessary. Re-cutting stems is a good ideaand softened water is toxic to plants unless filtered.The older books suggest immersing the whole branches

initially in tepid water for a few hours up to overnightto speed up the forcing process. Spraying the brancheswith a fine mist will also help keep them hydrated.Either with or without flowers, they will provide agreat deal of beauty and enjoyment in your house!

If the branches are happy and dropping flower petals isnt a bother, one can leave the branches tocontinue leafing out for some nice indoor green. Thewhole process of forcing the flowering buds intobloom is actually very educational because it is easy towatch closely the growth of the flowers and leaves. Sowe receive the bonus of education along with beauty!

Plant notes!Here is more information about some plants mentioned in this newsletter.

Cool season annual flowers and vegetables:arroyo lupine Lupinus succulentus CA native, to 3 tall.

California poppies Eschscholzia californica Our state flower.

larkspur Consolida ajacis 1-4 tall, many colors. All parts of plantare poisonous.

See The Digging Fork Sept-Oct 2007 and Jan-Feb 2008for more information. Last chance for cool season plants and

seeds is late January to early February.Trees and shrubs for forcing blooms

bridal wreath spirea Spiraea Several species and hybrids grow inDavis. Deciduous, arching shrub. Cut back after flowering.

flowering quince Chaenomeles Deciduous shrubs and small trees.Native to Japan and China. White, pink, red and orange shades offlowers. Easy to grow. Some have small fruits and most are thorny.

forsythia Forsythia Deciduous, fountain-shaped shrubs with beautifulyellow flowers. Native to E. Asia . Prune after flowering.

fruit trees, almond Prunus, Malus and Pyrus species Deciduous.

Japanese maple Acer palmatum Deciduous. Many cultivars from 3-25 feet, beautifully colored leaves. Boron in our water burns leaf edges.

redbud Cercis Deciduous shrubs and small trees. Western redbud(Cercis occidentalis) is the beautiful flowering tree we know here.Prune when dormant or after flowering. Interesting seedpods.

wisteria Wisteria Deciduous, woody climber with beautiful, fragrantflowers, usually in purple tones. Chinese wisteria (W. sinensis) has asingle, showy bloom season, while Japanese wisteria (W. floribunda)has a longer, less showy bloom season.

Bare-rootSee The Digging Fork Jan-Feb 2007 and Nov-Dec 2008

Warm season bulbs:See The Digging Fork Jan-Feb 2008 for ideas.

Warm season ornamental grassesMany warm season grasses are often left standing for winterinterest, although they are tan and dry. These grasses need to becut back to the ground just as the new growth begins. Coolseason grasses will be green and growing during the winter.

Miscellaneous

butterfly bush Buddleja Pruning requirements vary.Chinese pistache Pistacia chinensis Deciduous tree common in

Davis with striking fall colors. 30-60 ft. Tolerates drought.

crape myrtle Lagerstroemia Deciduous shrubs and trees that bloomin summer and have nice fall color.

flowering maple Abutilon hybrids Flowers most of the year.

Forsythia branch has been cut at diagonal, scraped and end split.

Cut forsythia branches in January are ready to go in the house in acool spot for several days. Forsythia blooming in garden in March.


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More gardening tips!Do roses really have thorns?

A thorn is an integral part ofthe plant. A stem is composedof xylem and phloem whichmoves water and nutrients upand down the plant. A truethorn also contains xylem and

phloem. Typically they are partof the plant and will not snapoff easily. They tend to break,usually at the tip. A prickle is

Olympiad rose an appendage that is attached tothe surface of the cane and

snaps off easily. That is what roses have. Steve Jones,Pacific Southwest District of the American Rose Society.

To easily break off a rose prickle (just doesnt sound thesame, does it?), bend it sideways. Oh, and citrus do havethorns!

Pruning rosesNow is the time to prune roses and there are numerous local

workshops in January to help. Keep an eye out for damagefrom cane borers and prune below the damage until the cutyields white pith with no hole. Limp rose stem shoots inmid April to mid June are often a sign of a raspberry horntail borer inside. Just cut off the shoot below the larvae tocontrol further damage.

In the spring, tips of rose stems may suddenly wilt, indicating a borer isinside. When pruning roses, watch for holes made by cane borers.

Continue to prune below this area until there is no hole and only white pith.

To help control peach leaf curl on peach and

nectarine trees. Spray the entire tree (at Thanksgiving, New Years and Valentines Day) with a copper basedfungicide. Carefully check the label because those with lessthan 50% copper will not be effective! Look for fixedcopper sulfate -- Redwood Barn Nursery usually carries it.

Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed

in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas A. Edison

Newsletter created by:Patricia Carpenter -- Gardening Coach (Design and Education),

with 35 years of Davis gardening experience.Frances Andrews -- Long-time organic farmer

The bi-monthly newsletter is free if received by email. If mailed,the cost is $15 per year. To be added to the subscription list or tounsubscribe, contact us at: [email protected]

Butterfly bush or Buddleja. There are two kinds ofBuddleja, those that bloom on old wood and those that bloom on new wood and the pruning requirements aredifferent! B. davidii is very commonly grown and bloomson new wood, so should be cut back by half or almost to theground in February before the new growth starts. If notpruned, the bush gets tall and leggy. Buddleja species that bloom on old wood early in the spring should be prunedafter the bloom. If pruned in winter, all the blossoms will be

cut off since the buds were formed last summer.

Staking trees and shrubs.Most trees and shrubs dont need staking when planted --

and those that are supported need the stakes removed whenthe plant has become established, usually in six months toone year. The stake that is found snugly supporting thetrunk in a nursery container is there to protect the plant frombreakage during all the rough treatment from the grower tothe nursery to your garden. This stake should be removedand discarded (or reused).

If a plant does need staking due to an exceptionally tall,or weak trunk and in areas with high winds, then it needs to

be done properly!! The staked plant must continue to moveand sway in order to develop a strong trunk with taper. Twostakes are required, either 1 or 2 in diameter, depending onthe size of the plant. Place the stakes a foot or two awayfrom the stem/trunk on the east and west sides of the plant,since most of the worst winds come from the north in Davis.Support needs to be only as high as is needed to prevent thestem or trunk from bending over. Secure with soft plasticgardening tape or velcro using two figure eights. A twist ortwo in the tie will help keep it from sliding. Sturdier tiesmay be needed for very large trees.

Flowering maple (below) is properly staked.The stakes are taller than the plant because

it will double in size in the next year and theplastic tape will need to be retied as it grows.

Abutilon or flowering maple, will often benefit fromstaking as the plant is top-heavy with so many blooms.Since they seem to bloom all year, gardeners are reluctant tocut them back when planting or when they start to fall over.A top-heavy abutilon will continue to fall over again andagain and never seems to become established with strongroots. Proper staking can solve the problem.

Check around your garden and neighborhood and rescue atree that no longer needs staking or is improperly staked!!

Abutilon Moonchimes

Velcro tape for gardens

The Digging Fork Jan-Feb 2009

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Transcript of The Digging Fork Jan-Feb 2009