The Care and Feeding of the Dream Greenhouse · The Dream: Designing your Greenhouse It will have...

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The Care and Feeding of the Dream Greenhouse

or; how to get the most out of your investment.You’ve dreamed for years of having your very own greenhouse – you have it planned down to the last bolt.

The Dream: Designing your GreenhouseIt will have glass walls and roof, with a designated potting bench, lots of staging for your ideal plants, a little heater for those chilly days, and maybe even a spot in a corner for a chair and some books. Some architectural salvage, some rustic planters, terra cotta clay pots with all kinds of gorgeous flowering plants in…

Now to hone in on what you need your greenhouse for. Is it to be a hobby greenhouse? Or one for commercial use? Sometimes you don't know that this will become more than a hobby, so prepare for that eventuality before you begin. Build your greenhouse bigger than you think you'll need. Believe me, you'll fill it up!Each design and type of greenhouse has it's benefits; if you're planning to grow plants to sell, you'll need a bigger greenhouse than someone who wants to grow a few petunias for their



hanging baskets. Here are some choices of semi-commercial greenhouse designs:Wood framed greenhouse – this type of greenhouse is probably one of the most demanding types of structures to design and build – some engineering experience won't hurt. Unless you are a carpenter or you can hire one, I don't recommend a wood framed greenhouse for the hobbyist.

However, if you do go this route, it's easy to customize a wood framed greenhouse to your specifications, and to attach benches to walls, put hooks in to overhead beams and so on. Most important part of designing and building this type of greenhouse is making the structure strong enough for wind resistance and snow load depending on your local conditions.Gothic arched metal frame covered with either poly tubes or double inflated poly. Advantages are that this type of greenhouse is easy to build, even with non-skilled labor. The pieces arrive in a pre-packaged kit with good instructions for building a foundation and erecting it.


Commercial wood framed greenhouse with wooden staging


Disadvantages: It does take a bit of skill to finish the ends of the structure, as these have to be custom built on site. A carpenter hired for this purpose can be the most expensive part of the venture. Putting the covering on is a task for a still day with no wind – and several people to help. At least one person with some experience putting on poly will really help this part go faster. It also requires some electricity installed by a competent electrician for the fan to inflate the two layers of poly.Wood framed, with recycled windows – Much more challenging than a fully designed and engineered greenhouse, one that uses a mismatched lot of windows recycled from the waste stream can be the most charming and unique of all greenhouses. It takes some imagination to figure out the placement of recycled windows, but if you can pull it off, you won't regret it.This type of greenhouse is sometimes attached to another structure as a lean to, and kept to a minimum size. Cladding: This refers to the materials used to cover the structure, and can range from woven tarp like plastic, polycarbonate, 4-6mil poly film, or glass. I recommend the woven tarp like plastic product for most uses, especially in wind prone or snowy areas. The plastic I buy custom sized is rated for 7 years; I'm going into the 10th year with mine, and it has never let me down. The trick is to get it really tightly attached so it doesn't flap in the wind which can fray it eventually. I've seen this plastic after a bear attempted to get into the greenhouse, and it was basically a patch job with a small spare piece of the same plastic, and it was good as new. Duct tape, although ugly, is all you need to fix most small holes.Polycarbonate is a rigid clear plastic, which comes in sheets. It's usually double sheets with air spaces in between, so it has a small amount of insulative value; it's easy to install, won't chip or yellow, and is impervious to hail damage for the most part. However, it's expensive.The best type of poly film to get has a UV stabilizer in it. Don't cheap out on this, it's the best investment of your time and effort. Nothings worse than trying to get 'just one more year' out of your cladding, only to come home after a wind storm and find that it finally just shredded – you can't imagine the mess that plastic makes when it shreds into tiny pieces. Go the extra dollar, and it will save you in time and plants.Glass is the most reliable as far as light transmission, and longevity, however it's also the most fragile. If you're in hail prone areas, don't bother. Replacing glass is a novelty that quickly wears off. Many commercial growers love glass because the light passes through unimpeded, which can be a good thing in some cases, not so much in others. You may end up using white latex paint to shade the greenhouse which makes it much less charming.After saving your shekels, you finally have enough money to build or buy your dream greenhouse. It arrives in boxes delivered by a truck, or you hire a couple of guys who know how to cut a piece of lumber in the right place.Your plan comes together, after several days or weeks of stressing and fretting. Finally, you have your dream greenhouse!



Now what?

You’ll have to decide on a few things and these decisions will affect how your greenhouse is run, and what types of plants you’ll grow. If the staging (growing benches) weren’t included in your kit or plan, then you’ll have to decide on what height of benches or shelves will work the best for your situation, and how wide they should be. You'll also need to determine what kind of shelving or staging you want; some popular options are:

• Plunge beds are filled with sand to put alpine plants in their pots into a sandy well drained media – these can also be used for propagation; many plants do very well in a community area.


Home built greenhouse with salvaged windows


• Capillary beds have special matting to make it easier to water those types of plants that should never dry out (or seedlings).

• Expanded metal staging which drains the water out of the pots preventing root rot in sensitive plants

• Wood slats work the same way, but take a bit more maintenance unless they're covered in plastic film

This last option is what I use in my greenhouse, and although it works, it's not the most attractive set up. However, it's easy to clean, and if the plastic gets too dirty, it can go in the recycling bin and replaced with fresh – an advantage in case of a fungal outbreak or other disease problem.I mainly use 1020 flats (named for their size of 10 inches wide by 20 inches long) for growing in, or for carrying pots in, so each bench is just over 34” wide, to accommodate three deep; just enough room to reach across the bench if you only access it from one side. Any benches that have walkways on both sides can (and should be) wider.It’s a trade off between utilizing every inch of space you have for growing, and being able to work comfortably in the area. If it’s not convenient to get at your plants, they will get neglected, or worse, the whole place will fill up with junk or dead and dying plants and become a haven for mice, bugs and other pest. Don’t let this be the fate of your dream greenhouse.Other things to keep in mind even before you order your kit, or make the final plans for the structure; how high should the greenhouse be? If you plan on having hanging plants in baskets hung overhead, you’ll need much more head room to put them. A tall greenhouse is best for really warm areas, as then the hot air has somewhere to go, besides right where you’re working. Vents in the roof are a necessity in desert growing conditions; make them automatic if you

can, so they open as needed depending on the temperature, closing as it cools down at night


Commercial shade cloth hung over specific benches for customized shade


or on cloudy days.Shading is essential; there are two types – inside the greenhouse, or on the top of the roof. The easiest to customize is inside, where you can hang shade cloth over only some of the benches as needed.

Other considerations;Will you operate your greenhouse organically? Or is it okay to spray some types of chemicals? If so, what kinds? These decisions will impact what types of plants you plan on growing too, as some of them will not fare too well with any kinds of sprays. In particular, if you plan on growing edible plants, stay well away from any kind of chemicals. Once you have a basic idea of what kinds of plants you like answer these questions too: Is the greenhouse just to grow a few bedding plants and vegetable starts in the spring, and then be a repository for ailing house plants, or some other specialized propagation techniques? If you want to use your greenhouse for a plant hospital, it’s best to have some areas screened off as a quarantine area, so you don’t spread any diseases or insect pests that they might have. Nothings worse than finally figuring out that the reason your Shefflera isn’t doing well is because of spider mites, and you’ve just infested all the other plants in your collection with the same problem.

Heat, light, and ventilation: The big threeThese three factors have the most impact on plant growth, negatively or positively. If you want to grow hardy alpine plants in your greenhouse, don’t expect them to do very well if you don’t have some way of keeping it cool enough. Even though they relish bright light (after all they do grow at great altitudes so get lots of ultraviolet light with less filtering from the atmosphere) they don’t like to be too warm.Some avid growers even use air conditioning to keep the heat from drying these sensitive plants out too much. On the other hand, succulents and cacti revel in warm dry conditions.


Happy succulents love the bright but diffused light in the greenhouse


All plants need light to varying degrees, but even succulents which originate in high deserts with extremely intense ultraviolet light can suffer if the light is combined with excess heat, and can cause sunburn through glass or some types of plastic. If the leaves are used to being in a more shaded situation, and are moved suddenly into brilliant sunshine, this can burn the plants.Ventilation and air movement will help reduce or eliminate certain diseases such as botrytis, powdery mildew and other water borne fungal problems. Good air flow will dry off leaf surfaces, preventing the spores from germinating. Remember that although many plants like fresh air and good ventilation, they object to drafts, which can dry out foliage, or cause other problems. They particularly won’t thrive in a dry climate with cold winds blowing directly into the greenhouse if they originate in warm humid situations.

There are many small greenhouses on the market; kits, plans if you're somewhat handy or homebuilt using a design right from your own experience and knowledge. I've seen some really great greenhouse designs – including pit greenhouses built below ground to utilize the warmth of the earth through long cold northern winters. You can build a greenhouse right into the side of a steep hillside for the same effect – particularly in windy or exposed climates. Earthships are houses built out of tires filled with soil, and compacted. These are usually bermed up all around, and feature a built in sun area, or greenhouse which in some sustainably designed earthships, can provide water purification by plants and fish, produce some of the food for the inhabitants, as well as bright light and solar power. This can be either passive solar heating by the warmth of the sun on a thick concrete or stone floor, or by installing photovoltaic panels for producing electricity. These areas are more than just a greenhouse, they're a living space as well. If you don't have room for something quite that complex, how about a window greenhouse? These are a small greenhouse that is built right in the window frame, quite often above the kitchen sink, so you have something to look at while doing your chores. If the window has bright enough light, herbs and even edible greens thrive in the conditions. In lower light conditions, such as an east or north facing window ferns, african violets, and other forest type plants will flourish.

The Reality;

Everything wants to live in your greenhouse and eat your plants Pests in the greenhouse: These are listed in no particular order, and your experience may vary.



I like to keep my doors and windows open, but if you don't thoroughly screen them, you'll invariably have a few of these intruders getting in. Sometimes you'll bring them in with flats or pots, or even on your clothes in the case of spiders, aphids and other small creatures. Mice will always find a way in, no matter how carefully you screen doors and windows. Be especially vigilant in the fall, when they're moving around to find a cozy spot to bed down for the winter. They will eat anything that is not in a tin can with a lid on, so if you keep seeds, bulbs, your precious root crops from the garden in your greenhouse, put them in a mouseproof container. Chipmunks are equally as greedy and destructive, and even more annoying, especially for your dog – they like to hide somewhere and chatter, which makes the dog crazy trying to get at them.I always look out for old metal or bamboo bird cages – mice can't get into them, so your plants and other treasures are safe inside, while still able to get light to grow. Tip: if the holes are too big, line the birdcage with hardware cloth, to prevent the little fuzzy darlings from getting in.

Old fashioned spring traps are the most effective way to get rid of mice or other vermin before they raise a family.Spiders are beneficial in the greenhouse, but one of the deadliest and most poisonous spiders loves the conditions in a warm, buggy environment – the Black


Vintage bird cage for vermin protection in the greenhouse


Widow spider thrives inside plastic pots, dark places, and under benches and staging. Aphids are a common problem in greenhouses. Partly it's because they're so well camouflaged that you don't spot them until the infestation is well under way. Closely inspecting your plants on a daily basis will help you get the jump on them, especially looking under the leaves and on new lush growth. Aphids seemingly appear out of thin air, but if you know something about their life cycle, it's not really so surprising. All aphids are hatched female, and some of them are actually hatched with their own live young or eggs already formed. Think about it; it will only take one to tango in this case, and an infestation can be triggered by one aphid + the right environment (warm, high humidity) + time. Each aphid can produce many more just like itself. Then, once the population reaches a certain density, some are hatched with wings – to transfer a colony to another plant. Another interesting phenomenom is that their life cycle takes 23 hours. This means that you have to spray within this time frame to get rid of all the newly emerging insects; spraying at the same time every day will miss their most vulnerable time.Mealy bugs – my nemesis! As if it weren't bad enough that these are the most pernicious, hard to erradicate bugs of all, they are also found in the soil and roots of plants too. If you have a whole lot of plants that really don't seem to be doing very well, tip them out of the pot, and look closely at the soil. If you can see a fine white webbing, and some tiny rice grain sized maggot looking things, these are root mealy bugs. I consider these worse than the top growing kind, by far, as they do their work under the cover of the soil, destroying root tissue, and slowly killing the plant.Oddly, I found that the best treatment for these is a good fertilization program, using some type of water soluble fertilizer. I'm sure that it's due to the salts, which the mealy bugs don't like, and even though the usual advice is not to fertilize a struggling plant, in this case, I'm all for it.Predatory insects & beneficial insects; Sometimes used interchangeably, these terms are not exactly the same thing. A predatory insect is one that can be introduced to a greenhouse environment and the adults or larvae will attack and kill a certain pest. Beneficial insects are those that play an important role in pollination or as a predator, depending on the type of insect.

Trapped creatures and birds:Sometimes, in all innocence small creatures will get into your greenhouse. Some of the most common in my area are hummingbirds as they zoom in to check out the bright flowers. The problem is that once in, they are drawn to the bright ceiling, and won't go back out



under the shade cloth. You can eliminate the problem altogether by having a proper screen door; if they get trapped put something bright red to guide them safely to the outdoors. I keep a red t-shirt scrap handy for just such an eventuality – place it on the ground outside to show the way out.Bats sometimes get in, if the door is left open at night. During the day, they'll hide behind something, usually where you'll see it next day, where it will startle you. Be really careful handling bats, they are one of those creatures that does carry the Rabies bacterium, so gloves, and a cloth to cover the bat with so you can move it outdoors are essential. They'll hiss at you, and possibly fly around in a panic, so be prepared for this.Other small birds like sparrows and chickadees get trapped – they will panic too, and generally once spooked try to fly through windows, so open the door wide, and move slowly to try and herd them in the right direction.Larger birds like quail or grouse have got into my greenhouse, I suspect they're after the grit on the floor.

It takes a carefully choreographed method to get them safely out – their size makes it possible for them to not only try and get through the window, but to break their necks in the attempt, as well as smashing the glass. It's best to simply open the door, and leave the area. Keep watch from a distance so you can secure the door once they make their exit. Make sure cats and dogs are well away to prevent spooking the poor birds (or making them into lunch) while you help them escape.

MaintenanceIt's important to keep up with maintaining the integrity of your greenhouse. Keeping the snow from collapsing the structure or even the plastic covering is an important winter chore. Some commercial greenhouse operations will go through and slash the plastic in the fall, to


Sharp Tailed Grouse, making a dangerous foray into forbidden territory


prevent the snow from building up and causing major damage. If the greenhouse is only used in the summer months, this is certainly an option, if a bit wasteful. If you know that your greenhouse will be dormant, then you can remove the poly completely, and store it ready for use the following season.

Snow removal – this important feature of your design will save you a lot of problems in the future of your greenhouse; plan ahead, and site your structure where there is enough room for the snow to slide off by itself, and also design your greenhouse with a steeply pitched roof. Having to use a roof rake to pull the snow off is a chore I would gladly do without.Wind damage can be a serious problem. Not only can it cause the cladding itself to pull loose of its moorings, but it can also cause damage from tree branches hurtling into the plastic. Once there is a hole, the wind can worry it until the whole thing comes off. If you live in a windy area, make sure there are no loose corners or gaps where the wind can lift a corner.Replacing poly, either in poly film form, or the woven tarp like plastic covering is a job for several people – preferably with at least one experienced in greenhouse poly replacement. Warning; do not attempt to replace the poly when it's the least bit windy. The sheet of poly or plastic will be like a sail, and you won't be able to keep it tight enough.

Other types of plant protection – Greenhouses in MiniatureSome vegetables need a longer growing season than others, so choose varieties that list the growing days to suit your season. Using season extenders on either side of the frost free period will enable you to harvest ripe, or partially ripe fruits.Cloches – small covers that provide protection to rooting cuttings, small seedlings and plants.


Snow removal is a necessary task in high snow areas


Usually made of handblown glass in the past, now available in plastic, either purchased or save money; make your own out of plastic water jugs or pop bottles. Using cloches over tender plants such as tomatoes and peppers will give them that extra boost and allow them to grow strong enough even in cooler climates.

Cold frames – sometimes you need an intermediate place to put your plants to harden them off. This means to gradually get them used to the great outdoors. The cold frame that was common in Victorian times was made of windows or sashes, laid over the top of a framework of bricks or wood. Now, with plastic available in so many forms, there are designs that are made of recycled plastic lumber, with top opening and vented clear plastic lids, or you can be a frugal gardener and make your own out of recycled lumber, old windows or make frames out of lumber and staple clear 4mil poly over it as a lid. The plants don't care how fancy or how simple the cold frame is; all they're concerned about is that they don't get too cold, too hot, or eaten by pests. I recommend that you put hardware cloth on the base of it to keep out rodents, and also install an automatic roof vent lifter (like a little gas shock absorber) that expands with excess warmth and opens the lid, and closes it as the outside temperature cools down – this makes it possible to leave the place occasionally without worrying about your baby plants.Row covers – lightweight spun bonded polyester that comes in wide strips, usually just over 1 meter, or 4', sometimes wider that can be quickly and easily draped over the plants in a bed. These work great either in a greenhouse, to protect from possible freezing temperatures, or outside in your garden. I've found that two layers of the spun bonded poly


Handblown glass cloches not only protect plants from cold, they're beautiful as well


will give 4 degrees Celsius of protection, so if you get minus 4, then the plants under the covers will stay above freezing.They must be weighed down to stop the wind from picking them up and carrying them off, and removed from plants that require pollination to set fruit such as tomatoes and peppers when the flowers open.Cheap alternative to row covers are sheer curtains from the thrift store or garage sales, newspaper, old sheets, blankets, or even emergency blankets for more protection. These are available at automotive supply stores and hardware and camping supply stores (they are made out of Mylar, which is lightweight, silver material originally developed for use in outer space). These can only be used at night, as light doesn't go through them.Wardian cases – an elegant and beautiful method of mainaining high humidity around certain plants. These were first invented as a means to get exotic plants from far off lands back to Europe safely, by protecting them from salt spray on long ocean voyages. Many plants prefer the high moisture content of the air that is trapped in them, where it provides exactly the right conditions for ferns, African violets and other jungle type plants.

These lovely display cabinets make a wonderful home for some of the delicate plants in your collection, as well as being a beautiful addition to your décor.

Greenhouses I have Known – a photo essay of greenhouses from my pastStarting in 1989, I worked as the Head Propagator for a wholesale nursery in Langley, British Columbia. They grew lots of prairie hardy shrubs, including many roses and junipers and other tough and reliable conifers and deciduous plants. Working in the huge propagation greenhouse was a dream come true. I happily developed new and innovative ways to produce this wide array of plants, with the blessing of my boss, Dave Adamson. Here are a few of the hoop houses and interior shots of the greenhouse.


View of the liner beds, where the young plants went to harden off after they left the greenhouse. The crops ranged from roses to potentilla, spiraea, and many ground covers like Arctostaphylos (kinnickinnick) to conifers like Juniperus and Thuja.



Liner beds showing the hoop frames made of re-bar, covered in pvc plastic piping. They were covered with white poly to reflect the warmth of the sun, preventing early growth.

Inside the propagating house, water circulated through rubber tubes under the flats keeps the rooting medium warm.

One of my innovations was to eliminate the use of the flats filled with medium, and use the entire bench filled. This increased production (and the speed of rooting) immensely.



Learning how to graft was a fun project - these are Picea glauca varieties.

Double layers of poly over a wood frame make this an unusual design

Propagation house renovation - production doesn't stop just because the greenhouse is torn apart!


Leaving Adamsons was a difficult decision, but the wild north beckoned. Moving to Tatla Lake in the Chilcotin was an exciting change, and new greenhouses were in my future: Starting with this one, to sell bedding plants to the local gardeners around Tatla Lake, the Tatlayoko Valley, Kleena Kleene and Redstone.


More grafting, this time using Thuja for the root stock, and a related plant, Thujopsis dolobrata on the top.

Small sales greenhouse to sell hanging baskets and bedding plants, under construction



Sales greenhouse open for business...

The main greenhouse for bedding plant production followed quickly.

The diffusion of the light through the fiberglass panel roof is very pleasant to work in.


I've learned so much about what not to do when designing a greenhouse, much of which I've passed on to you, my reader in this e-book. I hope you've enjoyed this look at some designs and ideas for your dream greenhouse. It's a challenging project, but making a special place for your plants that is geared to their comfort and health is a worthwhile endeavour. The beneficial effects on the gardeners soul is a satisfying side benefit.Don't miss my other books on similar topics:Succulent Plant PropagationXeriscaping with SucculentsPlant PestsAbout the author:As a Certified Horticulturist I enjoy immensely the challenges of gardening in a dry climate, and of using hardy succulents to create a textural, colorful display garden.I use my creative abilities and make many unique rustic planters to put them in, displaying them to their full potential.Some of my favorite crafts are hypertufa, and creating with twigs, bark, roots and many other natural items.I find rustic salvage in recycle centers and thrift stores, as well as flea markets, auctions and garage sales, which I combine with other materials to make garden totems, vintage treasures and shabby chic décor. You can see more of these on www.bluefoxfarm.com, and find out more about the fascinating plants to go in them on www.drought-smart-plants.com. As if that isn’t enough I now have another site about sustainable gardening here: www.organic-garden-goddess.com.I’m Jacki Cammidge, Woman of Many Sticks, Twig Artisan, Certified Horticulturist and Webmaster.


The plants enjoy it too.

http://www.drought-smart-plants.com/succulent-plant-propagation-e-book.html


http://www.organic-garden-goddess.com/


http://www.bluefoxfarm.com/

http://www.drought-smart-plants.com/plant-pests-e-book.html

http://www.drought-smart-plants.com/xeriscaping-with-succulents-e-book.html

The Care and Feeding of the Dream Greenhouse · The Dream: Designing your Greenhouse It will have...

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Transcript of The Care and Feeding of the Dream Greenhouse · The Dream: Designing your Greenhouse It will have...