The Best of Venice in Two Days - Luxury LinkThe Best of Venice in Two Days Venice, 2 Days Table of...

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The Best of Venice in Two Days

Venice, 2 Days

Table of contents:Guide Description 2

Itinerary Overview 3

Daily Itineraries 5

Venice Snapshot 13

http://www.nileguide.com/destination/venice/trips/the-best-of-venice-in-two-days/5821112

Guide Description

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AUTHOR NOTE: Now it’s time to explore the quarters across theGrand Canal from San Marco. This is not a quiet neighborhoodamble: Some of Venice’s greatest masterpieces are here,and you’ll discover one remarkable church and treasure-filledmuseum after another.

Itinerary Overview things to do

restaurants

hotels

nightlife

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Day 1 - VeniceDAY NOTE: Piazza San Marco: The heart of the city for morethan 1,000 years combines the very old (the basilica) with therelatively new (the 16th- and 17th-c. Procuratie Vecchie andProcuratie Nuove on the north and south sides of the square), yetstill manages to be harmonious...Caffè Florian: You’ll pay dearly for your cappuccino on theterrace, but you’ll never sip coffee in more atmosphericsurroundings on Piazza San Marco...San Salvador: The handsome white interior provides refuge fromthe busy Mercerie, one of Venice’s main shopping streets, as wellas the chance to view some excellent paintings: Two Titians, aTransfiguration and an Annunciation, and Carpaccio’s Disciplesat Emmaus...Grand Canal trip: A cruise up one of the world’s most beautifulwaterways is the ideal way to end a long day of touring. Get off atthe Ferrovia stop for the return trip.

Canal Grande (Grand Canal)

Basilica di San Marco (St. Mark'sBasilica)

Chiesa di San Salvador

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower)

Day 2 - VeniceDAY NOTE: Santa Maria della Salute: Saint Mary of Healthwas begun in 1630, an offering of thanks to the Virgin Maryfor bringing an end to a plague outbreak that killed a third ofthe city’s population. The massive white-marble church byarchitect Baldassare Longhena commands the entrance to theGrand Canal, and its high domes mimic those of San Marcoacross the water and suggest the Madonna’s crown. A suitablyimpressive collection of paintings hang in the round, marbleinterior, including Tintoretto’s Wedding at Cana and Titian’s St.Mark Enthroned with Saints. The Virgin is honored on the highaltar with a Byzantine icon and a wonderfully dramatic marblesculptural group by Giusto Le Corte—an old hag representingthe plague flees from a torch-bearing angel as the Virgin and anoblewoman, in the role of Venice, look on..

.La Dogana da Mar: The 17th-century Customs house at the tipof the Dorsoduro resembles the hull of a ship and was once amandatory stop for all ships entering Venice. On the roof, a statueof Fortune stands over a gold globe, and looking out to sea fromthe landing stage it’s easy to imagine the time when Venetiansfelt they were indeed the lucky rulers of the waves...Peggy Guggenheim Collection: The American heiress spentmuch of her life collecting contemporary art, living up to herpledge to “buy a picture a day.” In 1949 she found a home forherself and her paintings, the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, thatis as surreal as some of the paintings she preferred. Only theground floor of the 18th-century palace was completed, providingdistinctive surroundings for a collection that includes Giorgio DeChirico’s The Red Tower, Rene Magritte’s Empire of Light, andworks by Jackson Pollock (whom Guggenheim discovered), MaxErnst (whom she married), and many others. The shady gardenis filled with sculpture as well as the graves of Guggenheim andher dogs. The waterside terrace provides sweeping views up anddown the Grand Canal...Gallerie dell’Accademia: A walk through the galleries can take agood part of a day and is a lesson in Venetian art, from Carpaccioto Tiepolo. If time is tight or the temptation to be outdoorsexploring the city too great, at least see Room 10, where worksby Titian, Tintoretto, and Veronese line the walls, and Room 21,for a look at Carpaccio’s colorful action-filled Story of Saint Ursulacycle...Scuola Grande di San Rocco: San Rocco, the patron saint ofthe sick and a Venetian favorite, was especially popular for hisalleged prowess at curing the plague. The scuola was begun inthe early 16th century to house the saint’s relics...Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari: One of the largest churches inVenice is also one of the city’s great treasure troves of art, withmasterworks by Titian and Giovanni Bellini.

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim (PeggyGuggenheim Collection)

Dogana da Mar

Santa Maria della Salute (Church of theVirgin Mary of Good Health)

Galleria dell'Accademia (AcademyGallery)

Itinerary Overview things to do

restaurants

hotels

nightlife

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Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (Churchof the Frari)

Scuola Grande di San Rocco(Confraternity of St. Roch)

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Day 1 - VeniceQUICK NOTE

DAY NOTE: Piazza San Marco: The heart of the city for more than 1,000 years combines the very old (the basilica) with the relativelynew (the 16th- and 17th-c. Procuratie Vecchie and Procuratie Nuove on the north and south sides of the square), yet still manages to beharmonious...Caffè Florian: You’ll pay dearly for your cappuccino on the terrace, but you’ll never sip coffee in more atmospheric surroundings onPiazza San Marco...San Salvador: The handsome white interior provides refuge from the busy Mercerie, one of Venice’s main shopping streets, as well asthe chance to view some excellent paintings: Two Titians, a Transfiguration and an Annunciation, and Carpaccio’s Disciples at Emmaus...Grand Canal trip: A cruise up one of the world’s most beautiful waterways is the ideal way to end a long day of touring. Get off at theFerrovia stop for the return trip.

location:Venice

Canal Grande (Grand Canal)DESCRIPTION: A leisurely cruise along the "Canalazzo" fromPiazza San Marco to the Ferrovia (train station), or the reverse,is one of Venice's (and life's) must-do experiences. Hop onthe no. 1 vaporetto in the late afternoon (try to get one of thecoveted outdoor seats in the prow), when the weather-worncolors of the former homes of Venice's merchant elite arewarmed by the soft light and reflected in the canal's ripplingwaters, and the busy traffic of delivery boats, vaporetti, andgondolas that fills the city's main thoroughfare has easedsomewhat. The sheer number and opulence of the 200-oddpalazzi, churches, and imposing republican buildings datingfrom the 14th to the 18th centuries is enough to make any

Photo courtest of wikimedia

Day 1 - continued...

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boat-going visitor's head swim. Many of the largest canal-sidebuildings are now converted into imposing international banks,government or university buildings, art galleries, and dignifiedconsulates. © Frommer's

contact:tel: 041-522-5697

location:Venice

hours:Basilica, Tesoro, and Palad'Oro: summer Mon-Sat9:45am-5pm; Sun 2-5pm (inwinter usually closes an hourearlier). Museo Marciano:summer daily 9:45am-5pm (inwinter usually closes an hourearlier)

1 Basilica di San Marco (St. Mark'sBasilica)

DESCRIPTION: Venice for centuries was Europe's principalgateway between the Orient and the West, so it should comeas no surprise that the architectural style for the sumptuouslyByzantine Basilica di San Marco, replete with five mosquelikebulbed domes, was borrowed from Constantinople. Legend hasit that in 828, two enterprising Venetian merchants smuggledthe remains of St. Mark the Evangelist from Egypt by packingthem in pickled pork to bypass the scrutiny of Muslim guards.Thus, St. Mark replaced the Greek St. Theodore as Venice'spatron saint, and a small chapel was built on this spot in hishonor. Through the centuries (much of what you see wasconstructed in the 11th c.), wealthy Venetian merchants andpoliticians alike vied with one another in donating gifts toexpand and embellish this church, the saint's final restingplace and, with the adjacent Palazzo Ducale, a symbol ofVenetian wealth and power. Exotic and mysterious, it isunlike any other Roman Catholic church. And so it is that theBasilica di San Marco earned its name as the Chiesa d'Oro(Golden Church), with a cavernous interior exquisitely gildedwith Byzantine mosaics added over some 7 centuries andcovering every inch of both ceiling and pavement. For a closerlook at many of the most remarkable ceiling mosaics and abetter view of the Oriental carpetlike patterns of the pavementmosaics, pay the admission to go upstairs to the Galleria (theentrance to this and the Museo Marciano is in the atrium atthe principal entrance); this was originally the women's galleryor matroneum. It is also the only way to access the outsideLoggia dei Cavalli . More important, here you can mingle withthe celebrated Triumphal Quadriga of four gilded bronzehorses (dating from the 2nd or 3rd c. A.D.), brought to Venicefrom Constantinople (although probably cast in Imperial Rome)in 1204 together with the Lion of St. Mark (the patron saint'sand the former republic's mascot) and other booty from theCrusades; they were symbols of the unrivaled Serene Republicand are the only quadriga to have survived from the classicalera. The restored originals have been moved inside to thesmall museum. A visit to the outdoor Loggia dei Cavalli isan unexpected highlight, providing an excellent view of thepiazza and what Napoleon called "the most beautiful salonin the world" upon his arrival in Venice in 1797 (he wouldlater cart the quadriga off to Paris, but they were returnedafter the fall of the French Empire). The 500-year-old Torredell'Orologio (Clock Tower) stands to your right; to your left isthe Campanile (Bell Tower), and beyond, the glistening watersof the open lagoon and Palladio's Chiesa di San Giorgio on itsown island. It is a photographer's dream. The church's greatesttreasure is the magnificent altarpiece known as the Pala d'Oro(Golden Altarpiece), a Gothic masterpiece encrusted withclose to 2,000 precious gems and 255 enameled panels. It

Photo courtesy of Basilica di SanMarco.


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was created as early as the 10th century and embellished bymaster Venetian and Byzantine artisans between the 12thand 14th centuries. It is located behind the main altar, whosegreen marble canopy on alabaster columns covers the tombof St. Mark. Also worth a visit is the Tesoro (Treasury), witha collection of the Crusaders' plunder from Constantinopleand other icons and relics amassed by the church over theyears. Much of the Venetian booty has been incorporated intothe interior and exterior of the basilica in the form of marble,columns, capitals, and statuary. Second to the Pala d'Oroin importance is the 10th-century Madonna di Nicopeia, abejeweled icon taken from Constantinople and exhibited in itsown chapel to the left of the main altar. She is held as one ofpresent-day Venice's most protective patrons. Free Tours -- InJuly and August (with much less certainty the rest of the year),church-affiliated volunteers give free tours Monday to Saturday,leaving four or five times daily (not all tours are in English),beginning at 10:30am; groups gather in the atrium, where you'llfind posters with schedules. Know Before You Go . . . -- Theguards at the cathedral's entrance are serious about forbiddingentry to anyone in inappropriate attire -- shorts, sleevelessshirts (and shirts too short to hide your bellybutton), and skirtsabove the knee. Although the basilica is open Sunday morningfor anyone wishing to attend Mass, you cannot enter merely togawk as a tourist. © Frommer's


location:Venice

hours:Daily 9am-noon and 3-6pm

Chiesa di San SalvadorDESCRIPTION: The interior is classic Renaissance, built by GiorgioSpavento, Tullio Lombardo, and Sansovino between 1508 and 1534; thefacade is 1663 baroque. It includes a pair of sculptures (Charity and Hope)by an elderly Jacopo Sansovino, who may also have designed the thirdaltar, which supports one of the church's treasures, Titian's Annunciation(1556). Titian also painted the Transfiguration (1560) on the high altar. Askthe sacristan to lower the painting so that you can see the ornate 14th-century silver reredos (ornamental partition) hidden behind. In the righttransept rests Bernardino Contino's tomb for Caterina Cornaro (d. 1510),the one-time queen of Cyprus who abdicated her throne to Venice andended up with Asolo as a consolation prize. © Frommer's

Photo courtesy of Chiesadi San Salvador


location:Venice

hours:Apr-June 9:30am-5pm; July-Sept 9am-9pm

2 Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower)

DESCRIPTION: It's an easy elevator ride up to the top of this 97m (318-ft.) bell tower for a breathtaking view of the cupolas of St. Mark's. It is thehighest structure in the city, offering a pigeon's-eye view that includes thelagoon, its neighboring islands, and the red rooftops and church domesand bell towers of Venice -- and, oddly, not a single canal. On a clearday, you may even see the outline of the distant snowcapped DolomiteMountains. Originally built in the 9th century, the bell tower was thenrebuilt in the 12th, 14th, and 16th centuries, when the pretty marble loggiaat its base was added by Jacopo Sansovino. It collapsed unexpectedly in1902, miraculously hurting no one except a cat. It was rebuilt exactly asbefore, using most of the same materials, even rescuing one of the fivehistorical bells that it still uses today (each bell was rung for a different

Photo courtesy ofCampanile di San Marco

(Bell Tower)


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purpose, such as war, the death of a doge, religious holidays, and so on).© Frommer's

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Day 2 - VeniceQUICK NOTE

DAY NOTE: Santa Maria della Salute: Saint Mary of Health was begun in 1630, an offering of thanks to the Virgin Mary for bringingan end to a plague outbreak that killed a third of the city’s population. The massive white-marble church by architect BaldassareLonghena commands the entrance to the Grand Canal, and its high domes mimic those of San Marco across the water and suggest theMadonna’s crown. A suitably impressive collection of paintings hang in the round, marble interior, including Tintoretto’s Wedding at Canaand Titian’s St. Mark Enthroned with Saints. The Virgin is honored on the high altar with a Byzantine icon and a wonderfully dramaticmarble sculptural group by Giusto Le Corte—an old hag representing the plague flees from a torch-bearing angel as the Virgin and anoblewoman, in the role of Venice, look on...La Dogana da Mar: The 17th-century Customs house at the tip of the Dorsoduro resembles the hull of a ship and was once a mandatorystop for all ships entering Venice. On the roof, a statue of Fortune stands over a gold globe, and looking out to sea from the landingstage it’s easy to imagine the time when Venetians felt they were indeed the lucky rulers of the waves...Peggy Guggenheim Collection: The American heiress spent much of her life collecting contemporary art, living up to her pledge to “buya picture a day.” In 1949 she found a home for herself and her paintings, the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, that is as surreal as some ofthe paintings she preferred. Only the ground floor of the 18th-century palace was completed, providing distinctive surroundings for acollection that includes Giorgio De Chirico’s The Red Tower, Rene Magritte’s Empire of Light, and works by Jackson Pollock (whomGuggenheim discovered), Max Ernst (whom she married), and many others. The shady garden is filled with sculpture as well as thegraves of Guggenheim and her dogs. The waterside terrace provides sweeping views up and down the Grand Canal...Gallerie dell’Accademia: A walk through the galleries can take a good part of a day and is a lesson in Venetian art, from Carpaccioto Tiepolo. If time is tight or the temptation to be outdoors exploring the city too great, at least see Room 10, where works by Titian,Tintoretto, and Veronese line the walls, and Room 21, for a look at Carpaccio’s colorful action-filled Story of Saint Ursula cycle...Scuola Grande di San Rocco: San Rocco, the patron saint of the sick and a Venetian favorite, was especially popular for his allegedprowess at curing the plague. The scuola was begun in the early 16th century to house the saint’s relics...


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Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari: One of the largest churches in Venice is also one of the city’s great treasure troves of art, withmasterworks by Titian and Giovanni Bellini.

contact:tel: 041-240-5411www.guggenheim-venice.it

location:Dorsoduro 701Venice

hours:Wed-Mon 10am-6pm (until10pm on Sat Apr-Oct)

1 Collezione Peggy Guggenheim(Peggy Guggenheim Collection)

DESCRIPTION: Considered to be one of the mostcomprehensive and important collections of modern art in theworld, and one of the most visited attractions in Venice, thiscollection of painting and sculpture was assembled by theeccentric and eclectic American expatriate Peggy Guggenheim.She did an excellent job of it, with particular strengths incubism, European abstraction, surrealism, and abstractexpressionism since about 1910. Max Ernst was one of herearly favorites (she even married him), as was Jackson Pollock.Among the major works here are Magritte's Empire of Light,Picasso's La Baignade, Kandinsky's Landscape with Church(with Red Spot), and Pollock's Alchemy. The museum is alsohome to several haunting canvases by Ernst, Giacometti'sunique figures, Brancusi's fluid sculptures, and numerous worksby Braque, Dalí, Léger, Mondrian, Chagall, and Miró. Directlyon the Grand Canal, the elegant 18th-century Palazzo Venierdei Leoni was purchased by Peggy Guggenheim in 1949 andwas her home in Venice until her death in 1979. The graves ofher canine companions share the lovely interior garden withseveral prominent works of the Nasher Sculpture Garden, whilethe canal-side patio watched over by Marino Marini's Angel ofthe Citadel is one of the best spots to simply linger and watchthe canal life. A new and interesting book and gift shop andcafe/bistro has opened in a separate wing across the insidecourtyard where temporary exhibits are often housed. Checkthe tourist office for an update on museum hours; it is oftenopen when many others are closed and sometimes offers a fewhours a week of free admission. Don't be shy about speakingEnglish with the young staff working here on internship; mostof them are American. They offer free tours in English of thepermanent collection on Saturdays at 7pm. © Frommer's

Photo courtesy of Collezione PeggyGuggenheim (Peggy Guggenheim

Collection)

location:Venice

Dogana da MarDESCRIPTION: The eastern tip of Dorsoduro is covered bythe triangular 15th-century (restructured with a new facade in1676-82) customs house that once controlled all boats enteringthe Grand Canal. It's topped by a statue of Fortune holding alofta golden ball. Now it makes for remarkable, sweeping viewsacross the bacino San Marco, from the last leg of the GrandCanal past Piazzetta San Marco and the Ducal Palace, over thenearby isle of San Giorgio Maggiore, La Giudecca, and out intothe lagoon itself. © Frommer's

Photo courtesy of Dogana da Mar


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location:Venice

hours:Daily 9am-noon and3-5:30pm

2 Santa Maria della Salute (Church of theVirgin Mary of Good Health)

DESCRIPTION: Generally referred to as "La Salute," this crown jewelof 17th-century baroque architecture proudly reigns at a commerciallyand aesthetically important point, almost directly across from the PiazzaSan Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. The firststone was laid in 1631 after the Senate decided to honor the Virgin Maryof Good Health for delivering Venice from a plague. They accepted therevolutionary plans of a young, relatively unknown architect, BaldassareLonghena (who would go on to design, among other projects, the Ca'Rezzonico). He dedicated the next 50 years of his life to overseeing itsprogress (he would die 1 year after its inauguration but 5 years beforeits completion). The only great baroque monument built in Italy outsideRome, the octagonal Salute is recognized for its exuberant exterior ofvolutes, scrolls, and more than 125 statues and rather sober interior,though one highlighted by a small gallery of important works in thesacristy. (You have to pay to enter the sacristy; the entrance is througha small door to the left of the main altar.) A number of ceiling paintingsand portraits of the Evangelists and church doctors are all by Titian. Onthe right wall is Tintoretto's Marriage at Cana, often considered one of hisbest. © Frommer's

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contact:tel: 041-522-2247www.gallerieaccademia.org

location:Venice

hours:Mon 8:15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8:15am-7:15pm; lastadmission 45 min. beforeclosing (winter hours may beshorter)

3 Galleria dell'Accademia (AcademyGallery)

DESCRIPTION: The glory that was Venice lives on in the Accademia,the definitive treasure house of Venetian painting and one of Europe'sgreat museums. Exhibited chronologically from the 13th through the 18thcenturies, the collection features no one hallmark masterpiece in thiscollection; rather, this is an outstanding and comprehensive showcaseof works by all the great master painters of Venice, the largest suchcollection in the world. It includes Paolo and Lorenzo Veneziano fromthe 14th century; Gentile and Giovanni Bellini (and Giovanni's brother-in-law Andrea Mantegna from Padua) and Vittore Carpaccio from the15th century; Giorgione (whose Tempest is one of the gallery's mostfamous highlights), Tintoretto, Veronese (look for his Feast in the Houseof Levi here), and Titian from the 16th century; and from the 17th and 18thcenturies, Canaletto, Piazzetta, Longhi, and Tiepolo, among others. Mostof all, the works open a window to the Venice of 500 years ago. Indeed,the canvases reveal how little Venice has changed over the centuries.Housed in a deconsecrated church and its adjoining scuola, the church'sconfraternity hall, it is Venice's principal picture gallery, and one of themost important in Italy. Because of fire regulations, admission is limited,and lines can be daunting (check for extended evening hours in peakmonths), but put up with the wait and don't miss it. © Frommer's

alessandraelle


location:San Polo 3072Venice

hours:

4 Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (Church ofthe Frari)

DESCRIPTION: Known simply as "i Frari," this immense 13th- to 14th-century Gothic church is easily found around the corner from the ScuolaGrande di San Rocco -- make sure you visit both when you're in this area.Built by the Franciscans (frari is a dialectal distortion of "frati," or brothers),it is the largest church in Venice after the Basilica of San Marco. The

Photo courtesy of SantaMaria Gloriosa dei Frari

(Church of the Frari)


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Mon-Sat 9am-6pm; Sun1-6pm

Frari has long been considered something of a memorial to the ancientglories of Venice. Since St. Francis and the order he founded emphasizedprayer and poverty, it is not surprising that the church is austere bothinside and out. Yet it houses a number of important works, including twoTitian masterpieces. The more striking is his Assumption of the Virgin overthe main altar, painted when the artist was only in his late 20s. His Virginof the Pesaro Family is in the left nave; for this work commissioned byone of Venice's most powerful families, Titian's wife posed for the figureof Mary (and then died soon afterward in childbirth). The church's othermasterwork is Giovanni Bellini's important triptych on wood, the Madonnaand Child, displayed in the sacristy; it is one of his finest portraits of theMadonna. There is also an almost primitive-looking woodcarving byDonatello of St. John the Baptist. The grandiose tombs of two famousVenetians are also here: Canova (d. 1822), the Italian sculptor who led therevival of classicism, and Titian, who died in 1576 during a deadly plague.Free tours in English are sometimes offered by church volunteers duringthe high-season months; check at the church. © Frommer's


location:San Polo 3058Venice

hours:Daily 9am-5:30pm (winterhours usually shorter by aboutan hour)

5 Scuola Grande di San Rocco(Confraternity of St. Roch)

DESCRIPTION: Jacopo Robusti (1518-94), called Tintoretto because hisfather was a dyer, was a devout, unworldly man who only traveled oncebeyond Venice. His epic canvases are filled with phantasmagoric light andintense, mystical spirituality. This museum is a dazzling monument to hiswork -- it holds the largest collection of his images anywhere. The seriesof the more than 50 dark and dramatic works took the artist more than20 years to complete, making this the richest of the many confraternityguilds or scuole that once flourished in Venice. Begin upstairs in the Saladell'Albergo, where the most notable of the enormous, powerful canvasesis the moving La Crocifissione (The Crucifixion). In the center of the giltceiling of the great hall, also upstairs, is Il Serpente di Bronzo (The BronzeSnake). Among the eight huge, sweeping paintings downstairs -- eachdepicting a scene from the New Testament -- La Strage degli Innocenti(The Slaughter of the Innocents) is the most noteworthy, so full of dramaticurgency and energy that the figures seem almost to tumble out of theframe. As you enter the room, it's on the opposite wall at the far end of theroom. There's a useful guide to the paintings posted inside on the wall justbefore the entrance to the museum. There are a few Tiepolos among thepaintings, as well as a solitary work by Titian. The works on or near thestaircase are not by Tintoretto. © Frommer's

Photo courtesy ofwww.funtouristattractions.com

Venice Snapshot

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Local InfoIntroductionVenice, known as La Serenissima or themost serene, has been enchanting travelersfor centuries. Decaying buildings neverlooked so romantic as here, where themuted tones of centuries-old palazzi aremirrored in this city's labyrinth of canals.Glide along the Grand Canal in a gondola,climb to the top of St. Mark's Basilica or justsip a cappuccino in Piazza San Marco. Lifeis sweet in La Serenissima.Things to DoVenice is a vast, open-air museum, withprivate gondolas and publicvaporettiwhisking visitors from gallery to gallery.Along the Grand Canal and its narrowtributaries, gaze up at soaring churchdomes, medieval manors, arching footbridges and hidden piazzas. Visitors cranetheir necks and feed their souls absorbingthe exquisite ceiling mosaics at Venice'schief attraction, St. Mark's Basilica-- anarchitectural and cultural bridge betweenEurope and Byzantium.ShoppingCheap gondolier caps and fine Italianleather handbags lure shoppers intostorefronts along the Mercerie. Zigzaggingbetween the Rialto Bridge and PiazzaSan Marco, it's a pleasant street to strolland browse. It's tough to find a bargain inVenice, a city that's been a trading centerfor centuries. Focus on quality goods likerichly colored Murano glass and delicateBurano lace. A papier-mâché Carnevalemask, sold throughout the city, makes aniconic souvenir or gift.Nightlife and EntertainmentA long and rich tradition of classicalmusic permeates Venice. There's alwaysa concert going on somewhere, oftenin one of the city's majestic churches.The Chiesa Santa Maria della Pietà,otherwise known as the Chiesa del Vivaldi,is, not surprisingly, the place to catch thatcomposer's music. Performing arts, fromopera and theater to classical music andballet, fill the halls of the storied Teatro LaFenice, a Venice landmark for centuries.

Restaurants and DiningThe outdoor market, Il Mercato di Rialto,makes a perfect lunch stop. Barges delivermounds of blood oranges and fresh greenproduce, and vendors sell fresh-bakedbread. Locals stop at the neighboringCantina do Mori for a quick wine or tofill up oncicchetti, the Italian equivalent oftapas.Cicchetti are avaliable at almost anybar and range from fried polenta squaresto calamari rings. The Antico Martinirestaurant, dating from 1720, is pricey butrisotto is prepared perfectly here, and itsoutdoor tables across from the opera houseare worth a splurge.© 2000-2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.

Hotel InsightsHotelsFew cities boast as long a high season asthat of Venice, beginning with the Easterperiod. May, June, and September are thebest months weather-wise and, therefore,the most crowded. July and August arehot-- at times unbearably so(few of the one-and two-star hotels offer air-conditioning;when they do it usually costs extra). Likeeverything else, hotels are more expensivehere than in any other Italian city, withno apparent upgrade in amenities. Theleast special of those below are clean andfunctional; at best, they're charming andthoroughly enjoyable with the serenadeof a passing gondolier thrown in for goodmeasure. Some may even provide you withyour best stay in all of Europe.I strongly suggest that you reservein advance, even in the off season. Ifyou haven't booked, arrive as early asyou can, definitely before noon. TheHotel Reservations booth in the trainstation will book rooms for you, but thelines are long and the staff's patience isoften(understandably) thin. For 1€($1.30),they'll try to find you a hotel in the pricerange of your choice; on confirmation fromthe hotel, they'll accept your deposit bycredit card and issue you a voucher, andyou pay the balance on your arrival at thehotel. There is a similar hotel reservations

booth at the airport, but it charges a bitmore.Another alternative to reserve thesame day as your arrival is through theA.V.A.(Venetian Hoteliers Association),toll-free from within Italy tel. 800-843-006,041-522-2264 from abroad, or online atwww.veniceinfo.it. Simply state the pricerange you want to book and they'll confirma hotel while you wait. There are officesat the train station, in Piazzale Romagarages, and in the airport. If you're lookingto book on the Lido, contact their sisterorganization, A.V.A.L., toll-free from withinItaly tel. 800-546-788, 041-595-2466 fromabroad, or online at www.venicehotels.com.Recent state-imposed ordinances resultedin stringent deadlines for the updating ofantiquated electrical, plumbing, and sewagesystems-- costly endeavors. To make upfor this, small one- and two-star hotelsraised their rates, often applying for anupgrade in category for which they're nowpotentially eligible. Even more propertiesstuck TVs on the desks and hair dryersin the bathrooms to garner that extra starso they could inflate their rates during theJubilee Year 2000. Then, of course, camethe euro and prices jacked up yet again.The good news is that now you'll haveaccommodations of a better quality; the badnews is that yesteryear's affordable findsare slowly disappearing. The rates belowwere compiled in 2007. You can expect anannual increase of anywhere from 2% to10%, depending on the category, but youmight be hit with an increase of as muchas 20% if the hotel you pick is one that hasbeen redone recently.A few peculiarities about Venice hotelshave everything to do with the fact that thiscity built on water does not consistentlyoffer what you might take for granted:elevators, light, and spaciousness. Venicehotels often have tiny bathrooms. Therooms are generally smaller than elsewhereand can be dark, and canal views aren't halfas prevalent as we'd like them to be. Thisdoesn't mean that a welcoming family-runhotel in an atmospheric neighborhood can'toffer a memorable stay-- just don't expect

Venice Snapshot continued

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the amenities of the Danieli or Grand Canalvistas.Seasonal Considerations-- Most hotelsobserve high- and low-season rates,though many are gradually adopting asingle year-round rate, and the high-end-range hotels generally adapt their pricesto availability. In the prices listed below,single figures represent rack rates, becausethe price varies too widely depending onavailability; when a range is listed, theyrepresent low- and high-season ratesunless otherwise noted. Of course, you willalmost always get a deal when reservingthrough the hotel website ahead of time.Even where it's not indicated in the listings,be sure to ask when you book or whenyou arrive at a hotel whether off-seasonprices are in effect. Check the site forspecial offers. High season in Venice isabout March 15 to November 5, with a lullin July and August(when hotel discountsare often offered). Some small hotelsclose(sometimes without notice or to dorenovation work) November or Decemberuntil Carnevale, opening for about 2 weeksaround Christmas and New Year's at high-season rates.NeighborhoodsGiudecca-- You don't stay on Giudecca--the only one of Venice's main islands youmust access by boat-- for the atmosphere,the sights, or the hotel scene(though itdoes host the official IYH Hostel, an utterlyaverage hostel that's terribly inconvenient,especially with its curfew). You come forone reason only: the Cipriani.Cannaregio-- Expect most(but not all) ofthe least expensive suggestions to be inor near the train-station neighborhood, anarea full of trinket shops and budget hotels.It's comparatively charmless(though safe),and in the high season it's wall-to-wall withtourists who window-shop their way toPiazza San Marco, an easy half-hour to 45-minute stroll away.Vaporetto connectionsfrom the train station are convenient.On the Lido-- The Lido offers an entirelydifferent Venice experience. The city isrelatively close at hand, but you're reallyhere to stay at an Italian beach resortand day-trip into the city for sightseeing.

Although there are a few lower-end,moderately priced hotels here, they areentirely beside the point of the Lido and itsjet-set reputation.If you are looking for a more reasonableoption-- and one that's open year-round--check out the modern Hotel Belvedere,Piazzale Santa Maria Elisabetta 4(tel.041-526-0115; fax 041-526-1486;www.belvedere-venezia.com). It's rightacross from thevaporetto stop, has beenin the same family for nearly 150 years,and sports a pretty good restaurant anda free beach cabana. It charges 80€ to286€($104-$372) for a double.Family-Friendly HotelsAlbergo ai do Mori-- Good news for wearylegs: The larger, family-oriented roomsare on the lower floors in this elevator-challenged hotel just around the cornerfrom San Marco. Can-do English-speakingAntonella has a solution for every problem.Antica Locanda Sturion-- Scottish-bornHelen or her daughter Nicolette will settleyou into any of the spacious rooms, two ofwhich provide the special thrill of a GrandCanal view within sight of the famous RialtoBridge. One caveat: The 69-step hike tothe lobby may be a deterrent for little onesor for those who haven't mastered the art oftraveling lightly.Hotel Bernardi-Semenzato-- Owner MariaTeresa moonlights as an English teacher.As a mother of three, she's the perfecthost for families, who will appreciate therenovated rooms that easily pass as triplesor quads.Pensione Guerrato-- Young, euro-conscious families will enjoy theinexpensive rates of this former convent,where an informal and casual atmosphereis nurtured by the upbeat brothers-in-lawwho run it as if it were their home. Kidsshould get a kick out of being in the middleof the market's hubbub right on the GrandCanal and within steps of the Rialto Bridge.Spacious rooms are an added plus.© 2000-2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.

Restaurants InsightsRestaurants

Eating cheaply in Venice is not easy,though it's by no means impossible. Soplan well and don't rely on the serendipitythat may serve you in other cities. Ifyou've qualified for a Rolling Venicecard, ask for the discount guide listingdozens of restaurants offering 10% to 30%discounts for cardholders. Bear in mindthat compared with Rome and other pointssouth, Venice is a city of early meals: Youshould be seated by 7:30 to 8:30pm. Mostkitchens close at 10 or 10:30pm, eventhough the restaurant may stay open until11:30pm or midnight.Budget Dining-- Pizza is the fuel ofNaples and bruschetta andcrostini(small,open-face sandwiches) the rustic soul foodof Florence. In Venice it'stramezzini-- small,triangular white-bread half sandwichesfilled with everything from thinly slicedmeats and tuna salad to cheeses andvegetables; andcicchetti(tapaslikefinger foods such as calamari rings,speared fried olives, potato croquettes,or grilled polenta squares), traditionallywashed down with a small glass of wine,orombra("some shade from the sun").Venice offers countless neighborhood barscalledbacari and cafes where you canstand or sit with atramezzino, a selectionofcicchetti, apanino(sandwich on a roll), oratoast(grilled ham and cheese sandwich).All of the above will cost approximately1€ to 3€($1.30-$3.90) if you stand at thebar, as much as double when seated. Barfood is displayed on the countertop or inglass counters and usually sells out bylate afternoon, so don't rely on it for a lightdinner, though light lunches are a delight. Aconcentration of popular, well-stocked barscan be found along the Mercerie shoppingstrip that connects Piazza San Marco withthe Rialto Bridge, the always lively CampoSan Luca(look for Bar Torino, Bar BlackJack, or the character-filled Leon Biancowine bar), and Campo Santa Margherita.Avoid the tired-looking pizza(revitalizedonly marginally by microwaves) you'll find inmost bars; informal sit-down neighborhoodpizzerias everywhere offer savory andfar fresher renditions for a minimum of4€($5.20), plus your drink and covercharge-- the perfect lunch or light dinner.


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Fishy Business-- Eating a meal basedon the day's catch(restaurants are legallybound to print on the menu when thefish is frozen) will be a treat but neverinexpensive. Keep in mind that the priceindicated on the menu commonly referstol'etto(per 100g), a fraction of the fullcost(have the waiter estimate the full costbefore ordering); larger fish are intended tofeed two. Also, avoid splurging on fish orseafood on Mondays when the Fish Marketis closed(as are most self-respecting fish-serving restaurants). Those restaurantsopen on Mondays will be serving you fishbought on Saturday.Culinary Delights-- Venice has adistinguished culinary history, much ofit based on its geographical positionon the sea and, to a lesser degree, itshistorical ties with the Orient. You'll seethings on Venetian menus you won't seeelsewhere, together with local versionsof time-tested Italian favorites. For firstcourses, both pasta and risotto(more liquidyin the Veneto than usual) are commonlyprepared with fish or seafood: risottoallasepie oralla seppioline(tinted black bythe ink of cuttlefish, also calledrisottonero or black risotto) orspaghetti allevongole oralle vorace(with clams; clamswithout their shells are not a good sign!)are two commonly found specialties.Both appear withfrutti di mare,"fruit of thesea," which can be a little bit of whatevershellfish looked good at the market thatmorning.Bigoli, homemade pasta of wholewheat, is not commonly found elsewhere,while creamy polenta, often servedwithgamberetti(small shrimp) or tiny shrimpcalledschie, or as an accompanimenttofegato alla veneziana(calves' liverwith onions Venetian style), is a stapleof the Veneto. Some of the fish andseafood dishes they do particularlywell includebranzino(a kind of seabass),rombo(turbot or brill),moeche(smallsoft-shelled crab) orgranseola(crab),andsarde in saor(sardines in a sauce ofonion, vinegar, pine nuts, and raisins).From a host of good local wines, try the drywhite Tocai and pinot from the Friuli regionand the light, champagnelikeproseccothat Venetians consume almost like a soft

drink(it is the base of Venice's famousBellini drink made with white peach purée).Popular red wines include merlot, cabernet,Raboso, and Refosco. The quintessentiallyItalian Bardolino, Valpolicella, and Soaveare from the nearby Veneto area.Grappa,the local firewater, is an acquired tasteand is often offered in a dozen variations.Neighborhoodbacari wine bars provide thechance to taste the fruits of leading wineproducers in the grape-rich regions of theVeneto and neighboring Friuli.Family-Friendly RestaurantsAi Tre Spiedi-- There's nothing inparticular that flags this as kid-friendly, butits genial atmosphere, friendly service,and good cookin' make it welcoming forfamilies. Admittedly, most tables are takenby couples.Da Sandro-- This place offers good pizzaand pasta, seating outdoors, and lowprices. What more can you ask for?Pizzeria ae Oche-- If the kids arehankering for home and you(rightly) refuseto set foot in a McDonald's, this place is agood compromise; it serves great pizza andpumps rock music through the speakers,and even looks vaguely American-- or atleast trattoria-meets-Cracker Barrel.Pizzeria/Trattoria al Vecio Canton--This spot offers plenty of seating, a goodlocation near San Marco, low prices, and anextensive menu of both pastas and some ofthe best pizzas in Venice.Rosticceria San Bartolomeo-- There'snot much that isn't served at this big,efficient, and bustling fast-foodemporioin the Rialto Bridge area. Much of it isdisplayed in glass cases to pique the fussyappetite, and you won't raise any eyebrowsif you eat too little, too much, or at hourswhen the natives have either finished orhaven't yet started.Taverna San Trovaso-- Here you'll find abustling atmosphere, good-natured waiters,and a lengthy menu that covers all sortsof dishes and pizzas to please finickyyoungsters and more adventurous palatesalike. Good value-priced menus, too.Picnicking

You don't have to eat in a fancy restaurantto have a good time in Venice. Preparea picnic, and while you eat alfresco,you can observe the life of the city'sfew open piazzas or the aquatic paradeon its main thoroughfare, the GrandCanal. And you can still indulge in alate dinneralla Veneziana. Plus, doingyour own shopping for food can be aninteresting experience-- the city has veryfew supermarkets as we know them, andsmallalimentari(food shops) in the highlyvisited neighborhoods(where few Venetianslive) are scarce.Mercato Rialto-- Venice's principal open-air market is a sight to see, even fornonshoppers. It has two parts, beginningwith the produce section, whose manystalls, alternating with that of souvenirvendors, unfold north on the San Polo sideof the Rialto Bridge(behind these stallsare a few permanent food stores that selldelicious cheese, cold cuts, and breadselections). The vendors are here Mondayto Saturday 7am to 1pm, with a numberwho stay on in the afternoon.At the market's farthest point, you'll find thecovered fresh-fish market, with its carnivalatmosphere, picturesquely located on theGrand Canal opposite the magnificent Ca'd'Oro and still redolent of the days when itwas one of the Mediterranean's great fishmarkets. The area is filled with a numberof smallbacari bars frequented by marketvendors and shoppers where you can joinin and ask for your morning's first glassofprosecco with acicchetto pick-me-up. Thefish merchants take Monday off and workmornings only.Campo Santa Margherita-- On thisspaciouscampo, Tuesday through Saturdayfrom 8:30am to 1 or 2pm, a number ofopen-air stalls set up shop, selling freshfruit and vegetables. You should have notrouble filling out your picnic spread withthe fixings available at the various shopslining the sides of thecampo, including anexceptionalpanetteria(bakery), Rizzo Pane,at no. 2772, a finesalumeria(deli) at no.2844, and a good shop for wine, sweets,and other picnic accessories next door.There's even a conventional supermarket,


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Merlini, just off thecampo in the directionof the quasi-adjacentcampo San Barnabàat no. 3019. This is also the area whereyou'll find Venice's heavily photographedfloating market operating from a boatmoored just off San Barnabà at the Pontedei Pugni. This market is open daily from8am to 1pm and 3:30 to 7:30pm, exceptWednesday afternoon and Sunday. You'realmost better off just buying a few freshlyprepared sandwiches(panini when madewith rolls,tramezzini when made with whitebread).The Best Picnic Spots-- Alas, to staybehind and picnic in Venice means youwon't have much in the way of greenspace(it's not worth the boat ride to theGiardini Publici past the Arsenale, Venice'sonly green park). An enjoyable alternativeis to find some of the larger piazzasorcampi that have park benches, and insome cases even a tree or two to shadethem, such as Campo San Giacomodell'Orio(in the quietsestiere of SantaCroce). The two most central are CampoSanta Margherita(sestiere of Dorsoduro)and Campo San Polo(sestiere of SanPolo). For a picnic with a view, scout outthe Punta della Dogana area(CustomsHouse) near La Salute Church for aprime viewing site at the mouth of theGrand Canal. It's located directly acrossfrom the Piazza San Marco and thePalazzo Ducale-- pull up on a piece of theembankment here and watch the flutter ofwater activity against a canvaslike backdropdeserving of the Accademia Museum. Inthis same area, the small Campo San Vionear the Guggenheim is directly on theGrand Canal(not manycampi are) and evenboasts a bench or two.If you want to create a real Venice picnic,you'll have to take the no. 12 boat out tothe near-deserted island of Torcello, witha hamper full of bread, cheese, and wine,and reenact the romantic scene betweenKatharine Hepburn and Rossano Brazzifrom the 1950s filmSummertime.But perhaps the best picnic site of all is in apatch of sun on the marble steps leadingdown to the water of the Grand Canal, atthe foot of the Rialto Bridge on the San

Polo side. There is no better ringside seatfor the Canalazzo's passing parade.© 2000-2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.

Nightlife InsightsNightlifeVisit one of the tourist information centersfor current English-language schedulesof the month's special events. ThemonthlyOspite di Venezia is distributed freeor online at www.unospitedivenezia.it andis extremely helpful but usually availableonly in the more expensive hotels. If you'relooking for serious nocturnal action, you'rein the wrong town. Your best bet is to sit inthe moonlit Piazza San Marco and listento the cafes' outdoor orchestras, with theilluminated basilica before you-- the perfectopera set.The Performing ArtsVenice has a long and rich tradition ofclassical music, and there's always aconcert going on somewhere. Severalchurches regularly host classical-musicconcerts(with an emphasis on the baroque)by local and international artists. Thiswas, after all, the home of Vivaldi, andthe Chiesa di Vivaldi(officially the ChiesaSanta Maria della Pietà) is the mostpopular venue for the music of Vivaldiand his contemporaries. A number ofother churches and confraternities(suchas San Stefano, San Stae, the Scuoladi San Giovanni Evangelista, and theScuola di San Rocco) also host concerts,but the Vivaldi Church, where the RedPriest was the choral director, offersperhaps the highest quality ensembles.If you're lucky, they'll be performingLeQuattro Staggioni(The Four Seasons).Tickets are sold at the church's boxoffice(tel. 041-917-257 or 041-522-6405;www.vivaldi.it) on Riva degli Schiavoni,at the front desk of the Metropole Hotelnext door, or at many of the hotels aroundtown; they're usually 25€($33) for adultsand 15€($20) for students. Information andschedules are available from the touristoffice; tickets for most concerts should bebought in advance, though they rarely sellout.

The city still remembers well when thefamous Teatro La Fenice(San Marco 1965,on Campo San Fantin; tel. 041-786-562;www.teatrolafenice.it) went up in flames inJanuary 1996. For centuries it was Venice'sprincipal stage for world-class opera, music,theater, and ballet. Carpenters and artisanswere on standby to begin working aroundthe clock to re-create the teatro(built in1836) according to archival designs. Finally,on December 14, 2003, La Fenice(whichmeans"the Phoenix") arose from the ashesas Ricardo Muti conducted the Orchestraand Chorus of La Fenice in an inauguralconcert in a completely renovated hall.Then, after a few other performances, onDecember 21, it closed its doors againfor further restoration, which lasted until2004. Its performances now follow a regularschedule, hopefully for good.CafesVenice is a quiet town in the evening andoffers very little in the way of nightlife. Fortourists and locals alike, Venetian nightlifemainly centers on the many cafe/bars inone of the world's most remarkable piazzas:Piazza San Marco. It is also the mostexpensive and touristed place to linger overa Campari or cappuccino, but a splurge thatshould not be dismissed too readily.One of the most atmospheric and hiddenplaces to have aspritz(soda water, whitewine, and your choice of Campari orAperol) is in the newly opened Tavernadel Campiello Remer(Cannaregio 5701;tel. 349-336-5168) in the courtyard of thesame name, right on the Grand Canal closeto the Rialto bridge. That it only openedin 2007 and hasn't yet stood the test oftime is why it is not listed under"Whereto Dine," even though the locals alreadylaud the fresh fish offerings. The nightlylive music-- feel free to get up and sing, ifyou're any good-- along with the expertlystaffed bar, extensive wine list, and bigportions of prosciutto and melon, are arecipe for a romantic night out, especially inthis magically restored cantina, right by thecanal. It generally stays open until at least1am(closed Wed).The nostalgic 18th-century CaffèFlorian(San Marco 56A-59A; tel.


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041-520-5641), on the south side of thepiazza, is the most famous(closed Wed inwinter) and most theatrical inside; have aBellini(prosecco and fresh peach nectar)at the back bar for half what you'd pay atan indoor table; alfresco seating is evenmore expensive when the band plays on,but it's worth every cent. It's said that whenCasanova escaped from the prisons in theDoge's Palace, he stopped here for a coffeebefore fleeing Venice.On the opposite side of the square at SanMarco 133-134 is the old-world CaffèLavena(tel. 041-522-4070; closed Tues inwinter), and at no. 120 is Caffè Quadri(tel.041-522-2105; www.quadrivenice.com;closed Mon in winter), the first to introducecoffee to Venice, with a restaurant upstairsthat sports Piazza San Marco views. At allspots, a cappuccino, tea, or Coca-Cola at atable will set you back about 5€($6.50). Butno one will rush you, and if the sun is warmand the orchestras are playing, there's nomore beautiful public open-air salon in theworld. Around the corner(no. 11) and infront of the pink-and-white marble PalazzoDucale is the best deal, Caffè Chioggia(tel.041-528-5011; closed Sun). Come hereat midnight and watch the Moors strikethe hour atop the Clock Tower from youroutside table, while the quartet or pianistplays everything from quality jazz to popuntil the wee hours.If the weather is chilly or inclement, or forno other reason than to revel in the historyand drama of Venice's grand-dame hotel,dress up and stroll into the landmark lobbyof the Danieli hotel and Bar Dandolo(tel.041-522-6480; Castello 4196 on Riva degliSchiavoni, east of Piazza San Marco). Teaor coffee will only set you back 5€($6.50)and you can sit forever, taking in the formerresidentialpalazzo of a 15th-century doge.A pianist plays from 7 to 9pm and from10pm to 12:30am. Drinks are far moreexpensive; ask for the price list beforeordering.Clubs, Birrerie, GelaterieAlthough Venice boasts an old andprominent university, clubs and discosbarely enjoy their 15 minutes of popularitybefore changing hands or closing

down(some are only open in the summermonths). Young Venetians tend to go to theLido or mainland Mestre.For just plain hanging out in the lateafternoon and early evening, popularsquares that serve as meeting pointsinclude Campo San Bartolomeo, atthe foot of the Rialto Bridge, and nearbyCampo San Luca; you'll see Venetians ofall ages milling about engaged in animatedconversation, particularly from 5pm untildinnertime. In late-night hours, for lowprices and low pretension, I'm fond ofthe Campo Santa Margherita, a hugeopencampo about halfway between thetrain station and Ca' Rezzonico. Look forthe popular Green Pub(no. 3053; closedThurs), Bareto Rosso(no. 2963; closedSun), and Bar Salus(no. 3112). CampoSanto Stefano is also worth a visit to sitand sample the goods at the Bar/GelateriaPaolin(no. 2962; closed Fri), one of thecity's best ice-cream sources. Its runner-up, Gelateria Nico, is on the Zatterein Dorsoduro 922, south of the Galleriedell'Accademia. For occasional evenings oflive music, cabaret, or just a relaxed late-night hangout, consider the ever popular LeBistrot de Venise.Note: Most bars are open Monday toSaturday from 8pm to midnight.The Devil's Forest Pub, SanMarco 5185, on Calle Stagneri(tel.041-520-0623;vaporetto: San Marco),offers the outsider an authentic chanceto take in the convivial atmosphere andfind out where Venetians hang out. It'spopular for lunch with the neighborhoodmerchants and shop owners, and ideal forrelaxed socializing over a beer and a hostof games like backgammon, chess, andTrivial Pursuit. A variety of simple pastadishes and fresh sandwiches run about 5€to 6€($6.50-$7.80). It's open daily 10am to1am.Bácaro Jazz(tel. 041-285-249;vaporetto:Rialto) is a happening cocktail bar(theBellinis are great) with restaurant seating inthe back(tasty Venetian cuisine from 6.50€/$8.50) across from the Rialto post office atSan Marco 5546, just north of Campo SanBartolomeo(the San Marco side of Rialto

Bridge). It's a mix of jazzy music(a bit tooloud), rough plank walls, industrial-steeltables, and a corrugated aluminum ceiling.It's open Thursday to Tuesday 11am to2am(happy hour 2-7:30pm).With a half-dozen beers on tap, El MoroPub, at Castello 4531(Calle delle Rasse;tel. 041-528-2573), is the biggest draw intown. The crowd can be a bit older here,where post-university types congregateat the bar. TVs sometimes transmitnational soccer or tennis matches, and themanagement welcomes those who linger,but sensitive nonsmokers won't want to.Good food at reasonable priceswould be enough to regularly packParadiso Perduto, Cannaregio 2540,on Fondamenta della Misericordia(tel.041-720-581;vaporetto: Ferrovie), but itsbiggest draw is the live jazz performed on asmall stage several nights a week. Popularwith Americans and other foreigners livingin Venice, this bar was once largely devoidof tourists, primarily because of its hard-to-find location, but lately it looks as ifthe word is out. The good selection ofwell-prepared pizzas and pastas goes forunder 8€($10); arrive early for a table. It'sopen Thursday to Tuesday 7pm to 1 orsometimes 2am.The party spills well out from the plate-glasswindows of Torino@Notte, San Marco459(Campo San Luca; tel. 041-522-3914),a bar that has brought this square tolife after dark with live jazz many nights,unusual beer from Lapland, and goodpanini. It's open Tuesday to Sunday 10pmto 2am.In 1932, famed restaurateur and hotelierGiuseppe Cipriani opened Harry's Barright at the San Marco-Vallaresso Vaporettostop, San Marco 1323(Calle Vallaresso;tel. 041-528-5777). Named for his sonArrigo(Italian for Harry), it has beena preferred retreat for everyone fromHemingway-- when he didn't want a bloodymary, he mixed his own drink: 15 partsgin, 1 martini-- to Woody Allen. Regularsprefer the elegant front room to the upstairsdining room(the cooking is decent, andthey invented carpaccio, a dish of thinlysliced raw beef now served throughout


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Italy). Harry's is most famous for inventingthe Bellini, a mix of champagne and peachjuice. Prices-- for both drinks and the fancycuisine-- are rather extravagant.Dance ClubsVenice is a quiet town at night and offerslittle in the line of dance clubs. Eveningsare best spent lingering over a late dinner,having a pint in abirrerie, or nursing a glassofprosecco in one of Piazza San Marco'stony outdoor cafes.If you really need that disco fix,you're best off at Piccolo Mondo,Dorsoduro 1056, near the Accademia(tel.041-520-0371;vaporetto: Accademia).Billed as a disco/pub, it serves sandwichesduring lunch to the sounds of America'slatest dance music, offers a happy hourin the late afternoon in winter, and oftenfeatures live music. But the only reasonyou'd want to come is if you want a disconight(summer only); the club is frequentedmostly by curious foreigners and the youngto not-so-young Venetians who seek themout. It's open daily from 10pm to 4am insummer, and 10am to 4pm and 5 to 8pm inwinter.Another dance club that seems to besurviving is Casanova(tel. 041-275-0199or 041-534-7479), near the train stationon Lista di Spoagna 158A. The bar andrestaurant open at 6pm, but at 10pm thebar becomes a disco open until 4am(therestaurant stays open until midnight).Admission is often free(if you arrive beforemidnight), though sometimes there's a5€($6.50) or higher cover that includesthe first drink. Wednesday is salsa night;Thursday is rock, pop, alternative, andindie; Friday is dance music; and Saturdaybrings in house and progressive DJ music.The CasinoFrom May to October, Casino Municipaledi Venezia, located at Palazzo VendraminCalergi, Cannaregio 2040(FondamentaVendramin;vaporetto: Marcuola; tel.041-529-7111; www.casinovenezia.it),moves to its nondescript summer locationon the Lido, where a visit is not as stronglyrecommended as during the winter monthswhen it is housed in this handsome 15th-centurypalazzo on the Grand Canal.

Venice's tradition of gambling goes backto the glory days of the republic and liveson in this august Renaissance palacebuilt by Mauro Codussi. Though not of thecaliber of Monte Carlo, and on a midweekwinter's night, occasionally slow, this is oneof only four casinos on Italian territory--and what a remarkable stage setting it is!Richard Wagner lived and died in a wing ofthispalazzo in 1883.Check with your hotel before setting forth;some offer free passes for their guests.Otherwise, if you're not a gambler or acuriosity seeker, it may not be worth theadmission cost of 5€($6.50) to get in. Tip:If you pay a higher 10€($13) admissionfee, the casino will provide you with a10€($13) credit for gambling, so youradmission could actually be free-- andperhaps, if you're lucky, better than free.Note: A passport and jacket are requiredfor entrance, and the casino is open dailyfrom 3pm(11am for the slots) to 3am.© 2000-2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.

Things to Do InsightsFrommer's Favorite ExperiencesRiding the Grand Canal in a Gondola:Just before sunset, order some delectablesandwiches from Harry's Bar and a bottleof chilled prosecco, then take someoneyou love on a gondola ride along the GrandCanal for the boat trip of a lifetime.Sipping Cappuccino on Piazza SanMarco: Select a choice spot on one ofthe world's most famous squares, order acappuccino, listen to the classical music,and absorb the special atmosphere ofVenice.Sunning on the Lido: The world hasseen better beaches, but few sights equalthe parade of flesh and humanity of thisfashionable beach on a hot summer day.Contemplating Giorgione's Tempest:If you have time to see only one painting,make it this one at the Accademia. Theartist's haunting sense of oncoming menacesuperimposed over a bucolic setting willstay with you long after you leave Venice.Spending a Day on Torcello: Of allthe islands in the lagoon, our favorite

is Torcello, the single best day trip fromPiazza San Marco. Visit to see Santa MariaAssunta, the first cathedral of Venice andhome to splendid 11th- and 12th-centurymosaics. But also come to explore theisland, wandering around at leisure in aplace time seems to have forgotten. Followyour discoveries with a lunch of cannelloniat Locanda Cipriani, and the day is yours.Making a Pub Crawl in Search ofCicchetti: There's no better way to escapethe tourists and mingle with locals thanwandering Venice's back streets in searchof local color, drink, and cicchetti(the localversion of tapas). By the time you've madethe rounds, you'll have had a great timeand a full meal-- everything from deep-friedmozzarella and artichoke hearts to mixedfish fries and pizza. Finish, of course, withan ice cream at a gelateria. A good place tostart a pub-crawl is Campo San Bartolomeonear the Rialto Bridge-- one of Venice'sauthentic neighborhoods.Paying a Visit to the World's GreatestOutdoor Market: When you tire of Gothicglory and High Renaissance masterpieces,head for the Il Mercato di Rialto. Here youcan see what the Venetians are going tohave for dinner. Barges, or mototopi, arrivethroughout the day loaded with the richproduce of the Veneto area. Somehow,blood-red oranges are bloodier here,fresh peas more tender and greener thanelsewhere, and red radicchios redder.Sample a pastry fresh from a hot oven atsome little hole in the wall, then cap yourvisit at the vendors' favorite place, theCantina do Mori, where you can belt downa glass of wine made from Tocai grapes.There's been a tavern at this site since1462.Wandering Around Dorsoduro:Dorsoduro attracts everybody coming tosee the Peggy Guggenheim Collection orthe Accademia-- but few stick around toexplore the neighborhood in any depth.Susanna Agnelli, sister of Gianni Versace,keeps a place here, as do many wealthyindustrialists who could afford to liveanywhere. Yet parts are so seedy as to lookhaunted. The most intriguing promenade isthe Zattere, running the length of the districtalong the Giudecca Canal.


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Visiting the Island of the Dead: For aVenetian,"the last gondola ride" is to SanMichele, in a traditional funeral gondoladecorated with golden angels. San Micheleis a walled cemetery island shaded bymassive cypresses, and there's no placequite like it. Celebrities are buried here, butso are ordinary Venetians. Time stands stillin more ways than one at this cemetery.There's no more room here; today, Venicehas to send its dead to the mainland forburial. But poet Ezra Pound, who lived inVenice from 1959 until his death in 1972,made it just in time.Seeing the Sun Rise on the Lagoon: Forus, there's no more enthralling experiencethan to get up before dawn and cross thelagoon to San Giorgio Maggiore. ArchitectAndrea Palladio knew exactly what hewas doing when he created the church onthis exact spot. The church faces PiazzaSan Marco and the entrance to the GrandCanal. While the tourist zillions are stillasleep, waiting to overtake the city, you'llhave Venice to yourself as the sun comesup. The architectural ensemble seen inthe first glow of dawn, the panorama in alldirections as the city awakens, ranks asone of the greatest man-made spectacleson earth.Experiencing Venice at 2am: You'll trulyknow the meaning of the word spectacularwhen sitting at 2am on an outdoor seat onvaporetto no. 1 as it circles Venice. Onlythe most diehard night owls will be onboardwith you. With its twinkling lights and"Titianblue" skies, Venice at this time takes onan aura unique in Europe. It's very quietat this hour(except for the sound of thevaporetto's motor). Perhaps a gondola willsilently glide by. The buildings themselvestake on a different mood and color, lookinglike ghostly mansions from another time.When you get back home, this experiencemay be the one that lingers longer in yourmemory than any other.AttractionsVenice is notorious for changing andextending the opening hours of itsmuseums and, to a lesser degree,its churches. Before you begin yourexploration of Venice's sights, ask at the

tourist office for the season's list of museumand church hours. During the peak months,you can enjoy extended museum hours--some places stay open until 7 or even10pm. Unfortunately, these hours are notreleased until approximately Easter of everyyear. Even then, little is done to publicizethe information, so you'll have to do yourown research.Church ToursCheck with a tourist office for free toursbeing offered(erratically and usually duringhigh season) in some of the churches,particularly the Basilica di San Marco andoccasionally the Frari.For Church Fans-- The AssociazioneChiese di Venezia(tel. 041-275-0462;www.chorusvenezia.org) now curatesmost of Venice's top churches. A visit toone of the association's churches costs2.50€($3.25); most are open Monday toSaturday 10am to 5pm and Sunday 1 to5pm. The churches are closed Sundaysin July and August. If you plan to visitmore than four churches, buy the 8€($10)ticket(valid for 1 year), which allows youto visit all of the following churches: SantaMaria del Giglio, Santo Stefano, SantaMaria Formosa, Santa Maria dei Miracoli,Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari(reviewedhere), San Polo, San Giacomo dell'Orio,San Stae, Alvise, Madonna dell'Orto, SanPietro di Castello, Il Redentore(reviewedhere), San Sebastiano(reviewed here),and San Marco cathedral's treasury. Theassociation also has audio guides availableat some of the churches for.50€(65¢).Venice DiscountsThe newly created Museum Pass grantsadmission to all the city-run museums. Thatis, all the museums of St. Mark's Square:Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, MuseoArcheologico Nazionale, and the BibliotecaNazionale Marciana-- as well as to theMuseo di Palazzo Mocenigo(CostumeMuseum), the recently restored Ca'Rezzonico, the Museo del Vetro(GlassMuseum) on Murano, and the Museodi Merletto(Lace Museum) on Burano.It's available at any of the participatingmuseums. From November to March itcosts 12€($16) for adults, 6€($7.80) for

children 6 to 14; from April to October,it's 13€($17) for adults, 7.50€($10) forchildren; both are valid for one entry intoeach attraction, while the summer versionincludes entrance to a civic museum of yourchoice outside of St. Mark's Square.Venice, so delicate it cannot handlethe hordes of visitors it receives everyyear, has been toying with the idea ofcharging admission to get into the verycity itself. Slightly calmer heads seem tohave prevailed, though, and instead wehave the Venice Card(tel. 899-909-090in Italy or 041-271-4747 outside Italy;www.venicecard.it). The blu version will getyou free passage on buses andvaporetti,usage of public toilets(you are allowed twovisits per day, so use them wisely!), 20%to 30% discounts on parking, and a priceof 5€($6.50), rather than 8€($10), for thechurches pass. The orange version addsto these services admission to all the sightscovered under the expanded version of theMuseum Pass plus the Ca' Rezzonico;additionally, the card lets you bypass theoften long lines. There are versions thatinclude a ride into town from the airport,but that doesn't save you any money inthe long run, so skip it.(They're workingon arranging reserved, timed entries-- thelogic being that so many people will havethis card, the main sights will be effectivelybooked up, thus discouraging visitorswho arrive without the card.) They're alsoencouraging various merchants to jump onthe bandwagon in some way.Also, for tourists between the ages of 14and 29 there is the Rolling Venice card,which is something akin to the Venice Cardfor students. It costs just 4€($5.20) andentitles the bearer to significant(20%-30%)discounts at participating restaurants, and asimilar discount on traghetto tickets.For adults(and in student-friendly Venice,this means 30 and over), the blu card costs19€($25) for 12 hours, 34€($44) for 48hours, or 56€($73) for 7 days; for ages 4to 29, the blu card costs 17€($22) for 12hours, 31€($40) for 48 hours, or 53€($69)for 7 days. For adults, the orange cardcosts 30€($39) for 12 hours, 55€($72) for48 hours, or 82€($107) for 7 days; for ages4 to 29, the orange card costs 23€($30)


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for 12 hours, 47€($61) for 48 hours, or73€($95) for 7 days. You can order it inadvance by phone or online, for a 1€($1.30)discount on each card, and they'll tell youwhere to pick it up.Anyone age 16 to 29 is eligible for theterrific Rolling Venice pass, which givesdiscounts in museums, restaurants, stores,language courses, hotels, and bars acrossthe city(it comes with a thick booklet listingeverywhere that you're entitled to getdiscounts). It's valid for 1 year and costs2.60€($3.40). Year-round, you can pick oneup at the Informagiovani Assessoratoalla Gioventù, Corte Contarina 1529, offthe Frezzeria west of St. Mark's Square(tel.041-274-7645 or 041-274-7650), which isopen Monday to Friday 9:30am to 1pm,plus Tuesday and Thursday 3 to 5pm. Julyto September you can stop by the specialRolling Venice office set up in the trainstation daily 8am to 8pm; in winter youcan get the pass at the Transalpino travelagency just outside the station's front doorsand to the right, at the top of the steps; it'sopen Monday to Friday 8:30am to 12:30pmand 3 to 7pm and Saturday 8:30am to12:30pm.Another Cumulative Ticket-- One ticketcovers entrance to both the Ca' d'Oroand the Ca Pesaro for 5.50€($7.15); acumulative ticket including the Accademiacosts 11€($14).ShoppingA mix of low-end trinket stores and middle-market-to-upscale boutiques line the narrowzigzagging Mercerie running north betweenPiazza San Marco and the Rialto Bridge.More expensive clothing and gift boutiquesmake for great window-shopping on CalleLarga XXII Marzo, the wide street thatbegins west of Piazza San Marco andwends its way to the expansive CampoSanto Stefano near the Accademia. Thenarrow Frezzeria, also west of the piazzaand not far from Piazza San Marco, offers agrab bag of bars, souvenir shops, and tonyclothing stores.In a city that for centuries has thrivedalmost exclusively on tourism, rememberthis: Where you buy cheap, you getcheap. There are few bargains to be had;

the nonproduce part of the Rialto Market isas good as it gets, where you'll find cheapT-shirts, glow-in-the-dark plastic gondolas,and tawdry glass trinkets. Venetians,centuries-old merchants, aren't known forbargaining. You'll stand a better chance ofgetting a bargain if you pay in cash or buymore than one item.Venice is uniquely famous for local craftsthat have been produced here for centuriesand are hard to get elsewhere: theglassware from Murano, the delicate lacefrom Burano, and the cartapesta(papier-mâché) Carnevale masks you'll find inendlessbotteghe, where you can watchartisans paint amid their wares.Now here's the bad news: There's suchan overwhelming sea of cheap glassgewgaws that buying Venetian glass canbecome something of a turnoff(shippingand insurance costs make most thingsunaffordable; the alternative is to hand-carry anything fragile). There are so fewwomen left on Burano willing to spendcountless tedious hours keeping alive theart of lace-making that the few pieces you'llsee not produced by machine in Hong Kongare sold at stratospheric prices; ditto thetruly high-quality glass(though trinkets canbe cheap and fun). Still, exceptions are tobe found in all of the above, and when youfind them you'll know. A discerning eye cancut through the dreck to find some lovelymementos.Venice Shopping Strategies-- Thereare two rules of thumb for shopping inVenice: If you have the good fortune ofcontinuing on to Florence or Rome, shopfor clothing, leather goods, and accessorieswith prudence in Venice, because mostitems are more expensive here. If, however,you happen on something that strikes you,consider it twice on the spot(not back atyour hotel), and then buy it. In this web ofalleys, you may never find that shop again.AntiquesThe interesting Mercatinodell'Antiquariato(Antiques Fair) takesplace three times annually in the charmingCampo San Maurizio between PiazzaSan Marco and Campo Santo Stefano.Dates change yearly for the 3-day weekend

market but generally fall the first weekendof April, mid-September, and the weekendbefore Christmas. More than 100 vendorssell everything from the sublime piece ofMurano glass to quirky dust-collectors.Early birds might find reasonably pricedfinds such as Murano candy dishes fromthe 1950s, Venetian-pearl glass beadsolder still, vintage Italian posters advertisingCampari-sponsored regattas, or antiquepostcards of Venice that could be fromthe 1930s or the 1830s-- things changeso little here. Those for whom price is lessan issue might pick up antique lace by theyard or a singular museum-quality piece ofhandblown glass from a local master.BooksLibreria Studium, San Marco 337(tel.041-522-2382), carries lots of travelguides and maps as well as books inEnglish. Another good choice is Libreriaal Ponte, Calle della Mandola, 3717D(tel.041-522-4030), which stocks travel guidesand English-language books. Two othercentrally located bookstores are theLibreria Sansovino in the Bacino Orseolo84, just north of the Piazza San Marco(tel.041-522-2623), and the Libreria SanGiorgio, Calle Larga XXII Marzo 2087(tel.041-523-8451), beyond the AmericanExpress Office toward Campo SantoStefano. Both carry a selection of booksabout Venetian art, history, and literature.For art books and other colorful hardbackson history and Italian sights to hold downyour coffee table at 40% to 50% off,head to Libreria Bertoni Mario, SanMarco 3637B(Rio Terrà dei Assassini;tel. 041-522-9583), or Libreria BerontiAlberto, San Marco 4718(Calle dei Fabbri;tel. 041-522-4615).CraftsThe Murano Art Shop, at San Marco1232(on the store-lined Frezzeria, parallelto the western border of, and close to, thePiazza San Marco; tel. 041-523-3851), isa cultural experience. At this small shop,every inch of wall space is draped with thewhimsical crafts of the city's most creativeartisans. Fusing the timeless with thecontemporary-- with a nod to the magic andromance of Venice past-- the store offers a


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dramatic and evolving collection of masks,puppets, music boxes, costume jewelry,and the like. It's all expensive, but this rivalsa visit to the Doge's Palace.When it seems as if every gift-storewindow is awash with collectible bisque-faced dolls in elaborate pinafores andheaddresses, head to Bambole di Trilly, atCastello 4974(Fondamenta dell'Osmarin,off the Campo San Provolo on your wayeast out of Piazza San Marco in thedirection of the Church of San Zaccaria;tel. 041-521-2579), where the hand-sewnwardrobes of rich Venetian fabrics andpainstakingly painted faces are particularlyexquisite. The perfect souvenir startsat about 20€($26) in this well-stockedworkspace north of Campo San Zaccaria.FoodstuffsFood lovers will find charmingly packagedfood products for themselves or friendsat the well-known pasta manufacturerGiacomo Rizzo, near the major Coindepartment store, northeast of the RialtoBridge at Cannaregio 5778 at Calle SanGiovanni Grisostomo(tel. 041-522-2824).You'll find pasta made in the shape ofgondolas, colorful carnival hats, anddozens of other imaginatively shapedpossibilities(colored and flavored withsquash, beet, and spinach).Those with a sweet tooth should head inthe opposite direction, to Giancarlo Vio'sPasticceria Marchini, just before CampoSanto Stefano(San Marco 2769 at PonteSan Maurizio; tel. 041-522-9109), wherethe selection of traditional cookies arebeautifully prepackaged for traveling--delicatebaicoli, cornmeal raisinzaleti, andthe S-shapedburanelli.GlassIf you're going to go all out, look no furtherthan Venini, Piazetta dei Leoni 314(tel.041-522-4045), since 1921 one of the mostrespected and innovative glassmakers in allof Venice. Their products are more works ofart than merely blown glass. So renownedare they for their quality, Versace's ownline of glass objets d'art are done byVenini. Their workshop on Murano is atFondamenta Vetrai 50(tel. 041-273-7211).Cheap they are not, but no one else has

such a lovely or original representation ofhandblown Murano glassware.You should also visit the spaciousemporium of quality glass items at MarcoPolo(San Marco 1644; tel. 041-522-9295),just west of the Piazza San Marco. Thefront half of the first floor offers a variety ofsmall gift ideas(candy dishes, glass-toppedmedicine boxes, paperweights).Glass beads are called"Venetian pearls,"and an abundance of exquisite antiqueand reproduced baubles are the draw atAnticlea, at Castello 4719(on the CampoSan Provolo in the direction of the Churchof San Zaccaria; tel. 041-528-6946).Once used for trading in Venice's far-flungcolonies, they now fill the coffers of thissmall shop east of Piazza San Marco,sold singly or already strung. The open-air stall of Susie and Andrea(Riva degliSchiavoni, near Pensione Wildner; just ask)has handcrafted beads that are new, wellmade and strung, and moderately priced.The stall operates from February throughNovember.JewelryChimento, San Marco 1460(CampoS. Moisè; tel. 041-523-6010;www.chimento.it), carries gold and silverjewelry of their own manufacture as wellas items from top international designers,including Faberge.Tiny Antichità Zaggia, Dorsoduro1195(Calle della Toletta; tel. 041-522-3159),specializes in genuine antique jewelry(andglassware) of the highest quality andbeautiful designs.The jewelers at Esperienze, Cannaregio326B(Ponte delle Guglie; tel. 041-721-866),marry their own art with the local glass-blowing traditions to create unique pins,necklaces, and other jewelry.Leather& ShoesOne usually thinks of Florence whenthinking of Italian leather goods. But theplethora of mediocre-to-refined shoe storesin Venice is testimony to the tradition ofsmall shoe factories along the nearbyBrenta canal that supply most of Italy,and much of the world, with made-in-Italy footwear. Venice has plenty of fine

shoe stores-- including Bruno Magli,San Marco 1302(Calle dell'Ascensione;tel. 041-522-7210), and Mori e Bozzi,Cannaregio 2367(Rio Terrà della Madonna;tel. 041-715-261)-- but one store deservessingling out for sheer oddness. Evenif you're not in the market for shoes,stop by Rolando Segalin, San Marco4365(Calle dei Fuseri; tel. 041-522-2115),for fantastical footwear in an acid-trip ofcolors and shapes, including curly-toedcreations; many are intended for Carnevalecostumes.If you're not going on to Florence and arein the market for leather goods, the two-story Marforio shop, very near the RialtoBridge(on the Merceria 2 Aprile 5033; tel.041-25-734), stocks small leather goodsand accessories on the street level, andbags according to color and style(evening,casual, shoulder-strapped, backpack style)on the floors above. It's not a good placejust to browse, but it's a great spot if youknow what you're looking for. There aresome designer labels, but less expensivelines are abundant, and the selection isprobably the largest in Venice.Linens& LaceA doge's ransom will buy you an elaboratelyworked tablecloth at Jesurum, atCannaregio 3219(tel. 041-524-2540),with another shop at Piazza San Marco60-61(tel. 041-520-6177; www.jesurum.it),but some of the small items makegorgeous, affordable gifts for discerningfriends for under 10€($13): smalldrawstring pouches for your baubles, hand-embroidered linen cocktail napkins indifferent colors, or hand-finished lace doiliesand linen coasters.Frette, San Marco 2070A(Calle Larga/Via XXII Marzo; tel. 041-522-4914;www.frette.com), is another long-respectedplace to head for classy linens, bedclothes,and silk jammies. They'll even do customwork for you.For hand-tatted lace from the only schoolstill teaching it in Venice, ride out to Buranoto visit the Scuola dei Merletti, Piazza B.Galuppi(tel. 041-730-034), founded in 1872,closed in 1972, and reopened in 1981.Masks


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A shortage of maskbottegas in Venice isnot a problem; the challenge is ferretingout the few exceptionally talented artistsproducing one-of-a-kind theatrical pieces.Only the quality-conscious should shop atLa Bottega dei Mascareri(San Polo 80--at the northern end of the Rialto Bridgeamid the tourist booths; tel. 041-522-3857),where the charming Boldrin brothers' least-elaborate masks begin under 20€($26).Anyone who thinks a mask is a mask is amask should come here first for a look-see.Not only does Il Canovaccio, Castello5369-70(Calle delle Bande; tel.041-521-0393), produce high-quality artisanwork, but it's undeniably cool. Rolling Stoneguitarist Ron Wood has shopped here, andthe shop provided the masks and costumesfor the orgy scene in Stanley Kubrick'sEyesWide Shut.MusicIf you attended any of the many marvelousconcerts in Venice's churches andscuole,you'll want to bring some of the musicalmagic home with you. Nalesso(San Marco2765, on your left just before CampoSanto Stefano if you're arriving from thePiazza San Marco area; tel. 041-520-3329)specializes in classical-music recordings,particularly the entire works of Vivaldi and18th-century Venetian music, and carriesthe widest selection in town. You can alsopick up tickets here to most of the concertsaround town.Paper ProductsBiblos, with shops in San Marco at739(Mercerie S. Zulian), 2087(Via XXIIMarzo), and 221(Mercerie de l'Orolorgio;tel. 041-521-0714 or 041-521-908;www.biblos-venezia.com), carriesleather-bound blank books and journals,marbleized paper, enamel pill boxes,watercolor etchings, and fountain pens.If you're a real fan of marbleizing, the tinyworkshop of Ebrû di Federica Novello,San Marco 1920(Calle della Fenince; tel.041-528-6302), applies the technique to silkties and scarves as well as paper.WineFor a broad selection of wines from theVeneto and across Italy at truly decent

prices, head to Bottiglieria Colonna,Castello 5595(Calle della Fava; tel.041-528-5137), which will put together giftpackets of wines in packs of six, and alsohandles liqueurs from around the world.There's a more down-to-earth cantinacalled Nave de Oro, Cannaregio 4657(RioTerrà dei SS. Apostoli; tel. 041-522-7872),where locals bring empty bottles to havethem filled with a variety of Veneto tablewines at low, low prices-- around 2€($2.60)per liter.© 2000-2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.

Travel TipsPlanning a TripTourist Offices-- There's a small officein the train station, but the main office islocated right when you get off thevaporettoat the San Marco stop, in a stone pavilionwedged between the small green parkon the Grand Canal called the GiardinettiReali and the famous Harry's Bar. It'scalled the Venice Pavilion/Palazzina deiSanti(tel. 041-529-8710 or 041-522-5150;www.turismovenezia.it;vaporetto: SanMarco) and is, frankly, more interested inrunning its gift shop than in helping tourists.It's open daily from 10am to 6pm. They'vekept open the old(but just as indifferent)office under the arcade at the west endof Piazza San Marco at no. 71F, on theleft of the tunnel-like street leading toCalle dell'Ascensione(tel. 041-529-8740 or041-529-8711; fax 041-523-0399;vaporetto:San Marco). It's open Monday to Friday9am to 3:30pm. During peak season, asmall info booth with erratic hours operatesin the arrivals hall at the Marco Polo Airport.The tourist office'sLEO Bussola brochureis useful for museum hours and events,but their map only helps you findvaporettolines and stops(it's well worth buying astreet map at a news kiosk). More usefulis the info-packed monthlyUn Ospitedi Venezia(www.unospitedivenezia.it);most hotels have a handful of copies.Also keep an eye out for the ubiquitousposters around town with exhibit andconcert schedules. The classical concertsheld mostly in churches are touristy butfun and are advertised by an army of

costumed touts handing out leaflets onhighly trafficked streets.Websites-- The city's official tourist-boardsite is www.turismovenezia.it; the officialsite of the city government(also full of goodresources) is www.comune.venezia.it.A couple of good privately maintainedsites are Meeting Venice(www.meetingvenice.it) and Doge ofVenice( www.doge.it).Getting ThereBy PlaneYou can fly into Venice from North Americavia Rome or Milan with Alitalia or a numberof other airlines, or by connecting through amajor European city with European carriers.No-frills carrier Ryanair(www.ryanair.com)flies direct from London much morecheaply than the major airlines, as doeseasyJet(www.easyjet.com).Flights land at the Aeroporto MarcoPolo, 7km(4 1/3 miles) north of the cityon the mainland(tel. 041-260-9260 or041-260-9250; www.veniceairport.it). Thereare two bus alternatives: The special ATVOairport shuttle bus(tel. 041-541-5180or 041-520-5530; www.atvo.it) connectswith Piazzale Roma not far from Venice'sSanta Lucia train station(and the closestpoint to Venice's attractions accessibleby land). Buses leave for/from the airportabout every hour, cost 3€($3.90), and makethe trip in about 20 minutes. The slightlyless expensive, twice-hourly local publicACTV bus no. 5(tel. 041-541-5180) costs1.50€($1.95) and takes 30 to 45 minutes.Buy tickets for either at the newsstand justinside the terminal from the signposted busstop. With either bus, you'll have to walkto/from the final stop at Piazzale Roma tothe nearby vaporetto(water bus) stop forthe final connection to your hotel. It's rare tosee porters around who'll help with luggage,so pack light.A land taxi from the airport to the PiazzaleRoma(where you get thevaporetto) will runabout 30€($39).The most fashionable and traditionalway to arrive in Piazza San Marco is bysea. For 12€($16), the Cooperative SanMarco/Alilaguna(tel. 041-523-5775;www.alilaguna.it) operates a


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largemotoscafo(shuttle boat) service fromthe airport with two stops at Murano andthe Lido before arriving after about 1 hourin Piazza San Marco. Call for the dailyschedule of a dozen or so trips from about6am to midnight; the schedule changeswith the season and is coordinated withthe principal arrival/departure of the majorairlines(most hotels have the schedule).If your hotel isn't in the Piazza San Marcoarea, you'll have to make a connection atthevaporetto launches(your hotel can helpyou with the specifics if you booked beforeyou left home).A private water taxi(20-30 min. to/from theairport) is convenient but costly-- a legalminimum of 55€($72), but usually closer to75€($98), for two to four passengers withfew bags. It's worth considering if you'repressed for time, have an early flight, arecarrying a lot of luggage(a Venice no-no),or can split the cost with a friend or two. Itmay be able to drop you off at the front(orside) door of your hotel or as close as it canmaneuver given your hotel's location(checkwith the hotel before arriving). Your taxicaptain should be able to tell you beforeboarding just how close he can get you.Try the Corsorzio Motoscafi Venezia(tel.041-522-2303; www.motoscafivenezia.it)water taxis.By TrainTrains from Rome(4 1/2-7 hr.), Milan(21/2-3 1/2 hr.), Florence(3 hr.), and allover Europe arrive at the StazioneVenezia-Santa Lucia(tel. 848-888-088 or147-888-088 toll-free from anywhere inItaly;http://trenitalia.com). To get there, allmust pass through(though not necessarilystop at) a station marked Venezia-Mestre.Don't be confused: Mestre is a charmlessindustrial city that's the last stop on themainland. Occasionally trains end inMestre, in which case you have to catch

one of the frequent 10-minute shuttlesconnecting with Venice; it's inconvenient, sowhen you book your ticket, confirm that thefinal destination is Venezia-Stazione SantaLucia.Between the station's large front doors isa small, understaffed tourist office(tel.041-529-8727 or 041-529-8740), with linesthat can be discouraging and a strict"oneperson allowed in at a time" policy. It's opendaily 8am to 7pm(closed Sun in winter).The railway info office, marked with alowercasei, is also in the station's main hall,staffed daily from 8am to 8pm.On exiting, you'll find the Grand Canalimmediately in front of you, a sightthat makes for a heart-stopping firstimpression. You'll find the docks for anumber ofvaporetto lines(the city's publicferries or"water buses") to your left andright. Head to the booths to your left,near the bridge, to catch either of thetwo lines plying the Canal Grande: theno. 82 express, which stops only at thestation, S. Marcuola, Rialto Bridge, S.Tomà, S. Samuele, and Accademia beforehitting San Marco(26 min. total); andthe misnamed no. 1accellerato, which isactually the local, making 14 stops betweenthe station and San Marco(a 31-min. trip).Both leave every 10 minutes or so, butevery other no. 82 stops short at Rialto,meaning you'll have to disembark and hopon the next no. 1 or 82 that comes along tocontinue to San Marco.Note: The no. 82 goes in two directionsfrom the train station: left down the CanalGrande toward San Marco-- which isthe(relatively) fast and scenic way-- andright, which also eventually gets you to SanMarco(at the San Zaccaria stop) but takesmore than twice as long because it goesthe long way around Dorsoduro(and servesmainly commuters). Make sure the no. 82you get on is headed to San Marco.

By BusThough rail travel is more convenient andcommonplace, Venice is serviced by long-distance buses from all over mainland Italyand some international cities. The finaldestination is Piazzale Roma, where you'llneed to pick upvaporetto no. 82 or no. 1(asdescribed under"By Train") to connect youwith stops in the heart of Venice and alongthe Grand Canal.By CarThe only wheels you'll see in Venice arethose attached to luggage. Venice is a cityof canals and narrow alleys. No cars areallowed-- even the police and ambulanceservices use boats. Arriving in Venice bycar is problematic and expensive-- anddownright exasperating if it's high seasonand the parking facilities are full(they oftenare). You can drive across the Ponte dellaLibertà from Mestre to Venice, but you cango no farther than Piazzale Roma at theVenice end, where many garages eagerlyawait your euro. Do some research beforechoosing a garage-- the rates vary widely,from 21€($27) per day for an average-size car at the communal ASM garage(tel.041-272-7301; www.asmvenezia.it) to26€($34) per day at private outfits likeGarage San Marco(tel. 041-523-2213;www.garagesanmarco.it), in PiazzaleRoma. If you have reservations at a hotel,check before arriving: Most of them offerdiscount coupons for some of the parkingfacilities; just ask the hotel in which garageyou need to park and pay for parking uponleaving the garage.Vaporetto line nos. 1 and 82, describedunder"By Train," above, both stop atPiazzale Roma before continuing downthe Canal Grande to the train station and,eventually, Piazza San Marco.© 2000-2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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