The Best of Peru

Peru is legendary among world travelers looking for new experiences. Stun-ningly endowed in both natural and man-made attractions, Peru offers muchmore than most short trips can hope to take in: charming Andean highlandstowns with colonial architecture, remote jungle lodges in the Amazon basin,soaring snowcapped mountains and volcanoes, a 3,220km (2,000-mile) Pacificcoastline, and, of course, the legacies of the Incas and other sophisticated pre-Columbian civilizations. The following lists are some of my favorite places andactivities, from hotels and restaurants to outdoor experiences and festivals. Butthe fun of traveling to a fascinatingly diverse country like Peru is compiling yourown unforgettable list.

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1 The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences• Soaring over the Nasca Lines:

One of South America’s greatenigmas are the ancient, bafflinglines etched into the desert sandsalong Peru’s southern coast. Thereare giant trapezoids and triangles,the identifiable shapes of animaland plant figures, and more than10,000 lines that can only reallybe seen from the air. Variouslythought to be signs from the gods,agricultural and astronomical cal-endars, or even extraterrestrial airports, the Nasca Lines wereconstructed between 300 B.C. andA.D. 700. Small-craft overflightsdip and glide, and passengersstrain their necks against the win-dow to see mysterious figures suchas “the Astronaut.” See “Nasca” inchapter 5.

• Gazing at Machu Picchu: How-ever you get to it—whether youhike the fabled Inca Trail or hopaboard one of the prettiest trainrides in South America—MachuPicchu more than lives up to itsreputation as one of the mostspectacular sites on earth. The

ruins of the legendary “lost city ofthe Incas” sit majestically amongthe massive Andes, swathed inclouds. The ceremonial and agri-cultural center, never discoveredor looted by the Spaniards, datesto the mid-1400s but seems evenmore ancient. Exploring the site isa thrilling experience, especially atsunrise, when dramatic rays oflight creep over the mountaintops.See “Machu Picchu & the IncaTrail” in chapter 7.

• Hiking the Inca Trail: The leg-endary trail to Machu Picchu, the Camino del Inca, is one of theworld’s most rewarding ecoadven-tures. The arduous 4-day trek leadsacross astonishing Andes mountainpasses and through some of thegreatest attractions in Peru, includ-ing dozens of Inca ruins, densecloud forest, and breathtakingmountain scenery. The trek has asuperlative payoff: a sunset arrivalat the glorious ruins of Machu Picchu, shrouded in mist at yourfeet. For those looking for less popular ruins treks, Choquequirao

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looms. See “Machu Picchu & theInca Trail” in chapter 7.

• Floating on Lake Titicaca: LakeTiticaca, the world’s highest navi-gable body of water, straddles theborder between Peru and Bolivia.To locals, it is a mysterious andsacred place. An hour’s boat ridefrom Puno takes you to the Urosfloating islands, where communi-ties dwell upon soft patches ofreeds. Visitors have a rare opportu-nity to experience the ancient cultures of two inhabited naturalislands, Amantaní and Taquile, by staying with a local family. Theviews of the oceanlike lake, at morethan 3,600m (12,000 ft.) above sealevel, and the star-littered night skyare worth the trip. See “Puno &Lake Titicaca” in chapter 8.

• Marveling as Condors Soar overColca Canyon: The world’s sec-ond-deepest canyon (twice as deepas the Grand Canyon), Colca is the best place in South America tosee giant Andean condors, majesticbirds with wingspans of up to 3.5m(11 ft.). From a stunning lookout

point nearly 1,200m (4,000 ft.)above the canyon river, you canwatch as the condors appear, slowlycircle, and gradually gain altitudewith each pass until they soarsilently above your head and headoff down the river. A truly spine-tingling spectacle, the flight of the big birds might make you feelquite small and insignificant—andcertainly less graceful. See “ColcaValley” in chapter 8.

• Plunging Deep into the Jungle:However you do it, and inwhichever part of the Amazon-basin rainforest you do it, Peru’smassive tracts of jungle are not tobe missed. The northern jungle ismost accessible from Iquitos, andthe southern Amazon, which fea-tures two phenomenal nationalreserves, Manu and Tambopata, isapproachable from Cusco andPuerto Maldonado. You can take ariver cruise, stay at a rustic junglelodge, or lose yourself with a pri-vate guide, making camp andcatching dinner along the way. Seechapter 9.

T H E M O S T I N T R I G U I N G R U I N S & O T H E R H I S T O R I C A L S I T E S 5

2 The Most Intriguing Ruins & Other Historical Sites• Cantalloc Aqueduct & Chau-

chilla Cemetery: An incrediblenecropolis dating to around A.D.1000 and a sophisticated irrigationsystem in the area around Nascaare two of the south’s most inter-esting archaeological sites. Of thethousands of graves at Chauchilla,12 underground tombs have beenexposed. What they hold is fasci-nating: the bleached bones of chil-dren and adults with dreadlocks,and some of the garments andgoodies they were buried with.Close to town, nearly three dozenaqueducts represent a spectacularengineering feat of the Incas andtheir predecessors. The canals haveair vents forming spirals descend-ing to the water current and are

still in use today by local farmers.See “Nasca” in chapter 5.

• Colonial and Inca Cusco: VibrantCusco is a living museum of Peru-vian history, with Spanish colonialchurches and mansions sitting atop perfectly constructed Incawalls of exquisitely carved graniteblocks that fit together withoutmortar. Streets still have evocativeQuechua-language names that date back to Inca times, such asSaqracalle (“Where the demonsdwell”) and Pumaphaqcha (“Puma’stail”). See “What to See & Do” inchapter 6.

• Qoricancha–Templo del Sol: TheInca Temple of the Sun is an excep-tional example of the Incas’ master-ful masonry. Dedicated to sun

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worship, the greatest temple in theInca Empire was a gleaming palaceof gold before the Spaniards raidedit. During the summer solstice, thesun still magically illuminates aniche where the Inca chieftain heldcourt. A sensuously curved wall ofstone is one of the greatest remain-ing examples of Inca stonework.See p. 213.

• Sacsayhuamán: On a hill over-looking Cusco, the monumentalstonework at Sacsayhuamán formsmassive zigzagged defensive wallsof three tiers. Built by the Incaemperor Pachacútec in the mid–15th century, some blocks weighas much as 300 tons, and they fittogether seamlessly without mor-tar. The main pageant of thesplendid Inti Raymi festival, oneof the greatest expressions of Incaand Quechua culture, is cele-brated every June 24 at Sacsay-huamán. See “What to See & Do”in chapter 6.

• Pisac Ruins: At the beginning ofthe Sacred Valley, just 45 minutesfrom Cusco, are some of the mostspectacular Inca ruins in Peru.Equal parts city, religious temple,and military complex—and per-haps a royal estate of the Incaemperor—the ruins enjoy stun-ning views of the valley. A hike upthe hillside to the ruins, beginningat Pisac’s main square, is one of themost rewarding climbs you’re likelyto take. See “Pisac” in chapter 7.

• Ollantaytambo’s Fortress Ruins:Even though the Incas never finished this temple for worshipand astronomical observation, it is still extraordinary, perhaps thegreatest evidence to be found oftheir unparalleled engineering andcraftsmanship. On a rocky out-crop perched above the valley,dozens of rows of incredibly steepstone terraces are carved into the

hillside; high above are elegantexamples of classic Inca masonryin pink granite. See “Ollantay-tambo” in chapter 7.

• New “Lost” Inca Cities: Archaeol-ogists keep unearthing fantasticInca ruins in and around MachuPicchu. Most are still being excavated and documented, butChoquequirao, to which hard-coretrekkers put off by the crowds andregulations of the Inca Trail arenow hiking, and the recent discov-eries Corihuayrachina, Cota Coca,and Llactapata are all envisioned as new Machu Picchus. See “Onthe Trail of ‘New’ Inca Cities: TheDiscovery Continues” on p. 266.

• Huacas de Moche: On the out-skirts of Trujillo, this complex ofmysterious Moche adobe pyramids,the Temple of the Sun and Templeof the Moon, dates to A.D. 500.The Temple of the Sun (Huaca delSol), today sadly eroded, is stillmammoth—it was once probablythe largest man-made structure inthe Americas. The smaller Templeof the Moon (Huaca de la Luna)has been excavated; revealed insideare cool polychromatic friezes of ascary figure, the decapitator god.See “Trujillo” in chapter 10.

• Chan Chan: A sprawling city ofadobe in the Moche Valley, justbeyond Trujillo, Chan Chan wasthe capital of the formidableChimú empire. Begun aroundA.D. 1300, it is the largest adobecomplex of pre-Columbian Amer-ica. Among the nine royal palaces,the partially restored TschudiPalace has unusual friezes and isevocative enough to spur thoughtsof the unequalled size and sophis-tication of this compound of theChimú kingdom, which reachedits apogee in the 15th centurybefore succumbing to the Incas.Chan Chan includes three other

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F P E R U8

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sites, all quite spread out, includ-ing a modern museum. See “Tru-jillo” in chapter 10.

• The Ruins of Kuélap: Theremote site of Kuélap, hidden bythick cloud forest and more than800 years old, is one of the man-made wonders of Peru waiting tobe discovered by visitors. Theruins are still tough and time-con-suming to get to, but the fortresscomplex of 400 round buildings,surrounded by a massive defensivewall, rewards the efforts of adven-turous amateur archaeologists. See“The Ruins of Kuélap” on p. 389.

• Chavín de Huántar: About110km (70 miles) from Huarazand the Cordillera Blanca are the3,000-year-old ruins of Chavín deHuántar, a fortress-temple withexcellent stonework constructed bythe Chavín culture from about1200 to 300 B.C. These are thebest-preserved ruins of one ofPeru’s most sophisticated and influ-ential ancient civilizations. In asubterranean tunnel is the Lanzón,a huge and handsome stone carv-ing and cult object shaped like a dagger. See “Huaraz & theCordillera Blanca” in chapter 10.

T H E B E S T M U S E U M S 9

3 The Best Museums• Museo Arqueológico Rafael

Larco Herrera, Lima: The world’slargest private collection of pre-Columbian art focuses on theMoche dynasty (A.D. 200–700)and its extraordinary ceramics.Packed shelves in this 18th-centurycolonial building hold an incredi-ble 45,000 pieces. And it wouldn’tbe a proper presentation of theMoche culture without a SalaErótica, dedicated to the culture’sshockingly explicit ceramic sexualdepictions. See p. 134.

• Museo de la Nación, Lima: TheNational Museum traces the artand history of the earliest inhabi-tants to the Inca Empire, the last before colonization by theSpaniards. It’s sprawling but verywell designed, with scale modelsof major archaeological sites andgreat carved totems and textiles.See p. 136.

• Convento y Museo de San Fran-cisco, Lima: The capital’s best colonial-era church, the Conventof St. Francis is a striking 17th-century baroque complex with gorgeous glazed ceramic tiles andcarved ceilings. The museum holdsexcellent examples of religious art

and a splendid library, but deepbeneath the church are somecreepy catacombs, dug in the 16thcentury to house the remains oftens of thousands of priests andparishioners. See p. 131.

• Casa-Museo María Reiche,Nasca: One of Peru’s best smallmuseums, named for the Germanwoman who dedicated herself tothe study of the Nasca Lines, dis-plays a good collection of Paracastextiles, Nasca ceramics, mummies,and colonial art. Outside of Lima,it’s one of the best spots for aprimer on southern Peru’s rich his-tory and archaeology. See p. 168.

• Museo Antonini, Nasca: A pri-vate archaeology museum with a mission, this Italian initiativepresents artifacts from the sophis-ticated Nasca culture and detailsthe process of excavations. In themuseum’s backyard is the Bisam-bra aqueduct, an ancient Nascastone irrigation canal. The museumis in possession of the world’sgreatest collection of painted textiles, from the huge adobe cityof Cahuachi nearby, but as of yethas no place to display them. Seep. 169.

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• Museo Inka, Cusco: This finecollection of exhibits and artifactsfrom pre-Inca civilizations andInca culture poses an excellentintroduction to the Incas. Thehandsome colonial-era mansionthat houses the museum, built ontop of an Inca palace, is one ofCusco’s most important. Womenweave Andean textiles in thecourtyard. See p. 211.

• Museo de Arte Precolombino,Cusco: This new and handsomelydesigned museum of pre-Colum-bian art possesses some pristinepieces representing the whole of Peru’s history, all taken fromLima’s overwhelming Larco Herreramuseum. Housed in a colonialmansion on one of Cusco’s prettiestsquares, the museum is smallenough to be engaging rather thanexhausting. See p. 212.

• Monasterio de Santa Catalina,Arequipa: The Convent of SantaCatalina, founded in 1579, ishands-down the greatest religiousmonument in Peru. More than aconvent, it’s an extraordinary andevocative small village, with Span-ish-style cobblestone streets, passageways, plazas, and cloisters,where more than 200 sequesterednuns once lived (only a handfulremain). Spending a sunny after-noon here is like being transportedto another world: a small village inAndalucía, Spain. See p. 297.

• Museo Santuarios Andinos, Arequipa: Down the street fromthe Convent of Santa Catalina at

the Museum of Andean Sanctuar-ies is a singular exhibit, one of themost important recent archaeo-logical finds in Peru: Juanita, theIce Maiden of Ampato. A 13- or14-year-old girl sacrificed in the1500s by Inca priests on a volcanoat more than 6,000m (20,000 ft.),“Juanita” was discovered in almostperfect condition in 1995. Herfrozen remains, kept inside a high-tech chamber, have been studiedby scientific teams from the U.S.and Peru to elicit clues from herDNA. See p. 299.

• Museo Arqueológico Brüning,Lambayeque: Housing one ofPeru’s most important archaeolog-ical discoveries, the glittering royaltomb of the Lord of Sipán, thisterrifically designed museum is amust-see. The Moche royal figure,buried 1,700 years ago, and histomb, unearthed in all its undis-turbed glory of ceremonial treas-ures, are astounding. Also on thepremises is a wide-ranging collec-tion of 1,500 items from the Lam-bayeque, Moche, Chavín, Vicus,and Inca civilizations, including amemorable gold room. See p. 384.

• Conjunto Monumental de Belén,Cajamarca: A historic architecturalcomplex of carved volcanic stone,Belén comprises an extraordinarycolonial church and two formerhospitals housing medical andarchaeological exhibits, includingtextiles and ceramics dating back to1500 B.C. and interesting ethno-graphic displays. See p. 394.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F P E R U10

4 The Best of Natural Peru• Islas Ballestas: The Ballestas

Islands, considered the “PeruvianGalápagos,” are home to an amaz-ing roster of protected species,including huge colonies of sealions, endangered turtles andHumboldt penguins, red boobies,

pelicans, turkey vultures, and red-footed cormorants. The islandsare so covered with migratory andresident sea birds that they areknown for their production ofguano, or bird droppings. TheBallestas are part of the Paracas

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National Reserve, which is two-thirds ocean. See “Pisco & theReserva Nacional de Paracas” inchapter 5.

• Colca Valley: The Colca Canyonis an awe-inspiring site and thebest place in South America towitness giant condors, but theentire area, which Mario VargasLlosa called the “Valley of Won-ders,” is extraordinarily scenic.From snowcapped volcanoes topatchwork valleys of green, nar-row gorges, and beautiful desertlandscapes, Colca has it all. Onthe way to Colca Canyon, youpass the Salinas and AguadaBlanca Nature Reserve, where youcan glimpse vicuñas, llamas, andalpacas from the road. See “ColcaValley” in chapter 8.

• Tambopata-Candamo NatureReserve: A huge reserve of rainfor-est in the departamento (province)of Madre de Dios, Tambopata hasoutstanding biodiversity: morespecies of birds (nearly 600) andbutterflies (1,200) than any placeof similar size on earth, as well as adozen different types of forest andgorgeous oxbow lakes, and at least13 endangered animal species. Thefamous Tambopata macaw claylick, where thousands of brilliantlycolored macaws and parrots gatherdaily for feedings, ranks as one ofthe wildlife highlights of Peru. See“The Southern Amazon Jungle” inchapter 9.

• Manu Biosphere Reserve:Remote Manu—about as close asyou’re likely to come to virginrainforest anywhere—is the second-largest protected area in Peru. Itsincredibly varied habitats includeAndes highlands, cloud forests,and lowland tropical rainforests.One hectare (21⁄2 acres) of forest inManu could have 10 times thenumber of species of trees foundin a hectare of temperate forest in

Europe or North America, andManu has the highest bird, mam-mal, and plant diversity of anypark on the planet. The reserve isone of the world’s finest for bird-ing (greater even than all of CostaRica); other wildlife includes giantriver otters, cocks-of-the-rock, andperhaps 15,000 animal species, aswell as native Amerindian tribesthat remain untouched by themodern world. See “The SouthernAmazon Jungle” in chapter 9.

• Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve:The reserve, nearly 322km (200miles) south of Iquitos, is the largestprotected area in Peru and one ofthe best conserved in the world. Itsdense, pristine rainforest and wet-lands comprise 1.5% of Peru’s totalsurface area and contain some ofthe Amazon’s greatest wildlife,including pink dolphins, macaws,black caimans, spider monkeys, andgiant river turtles. Found in thereserve (at last count) are 539species of birds, 101 species ofmammals, 256 kinds of fish, and22 species of orchids. See “Into theWild: Farther Afield from Iquitos”on p. 354.

• Huascarán National Park: Fortrekkers and climbers, the soaringpeaks of the longest tropical moun-tain range in the world are a SouthAmerican mecca. It’s a visual feast,with 200 alpine lakes, 600 glaciers,and incomparable mountain vistas.The park, a UNESCO BiosphereReserve and World Heritage Trustsite, contains nearly the whole ofthe 161km (100-mile) CordilleraBlanca. See “Huaraz & theCordillera Blanca” in chapter 10.

• Lagunas Llanganuco & PuyaRaimondi: Near Huaraz, thesnowcapped peaks of the CordilleraBlanca are the biggest natural drawfor trekkers, but the area is repletewith all kinds of natural wonders.The Llanganuco lakes are two

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turquoise, glacier-fed alpine lakesthat reflect the snowy summits ofseveral 6,000m (20,000-ft.) moun-tains. In the valley of Pachacoto,56km (35 miles) from Huaraz, arethe famous Puya Raimondi plants:trippy bromeliad plants that soarup to 12m (39 ft.), flower just once

in 100 years, and immediately die.The colorful flowers, against thebackdrop of the Cordillera Blancamountains, make for one of theprettiest pictures in Peru. See“Huaraz & the Cordillera Blanca”in chapter 10.

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5 The Best Small Towns & Villages• Pisac: The first of the Sacred Val-

ley settlements outside Cusco,Pisac has a greatly colorful andlively artisans’ market and some ofthe most splendid Inca ruins thisside of Machu Picchu. A massivefortress complex clings to a cliffhigh above town, affording sensa-tional views of the valley. See“Pisac” in chapter 7.

• Chinchero: Just beyond Cusco,but not technically part of theSacred Valley, Chinchero is bestknown for its bustling Sundayartisans’ market, one of the best inPeru. But the graceful, traditionalAndean town, higher even thanCusco, has mesmerizing views ofsnowy mountain ranges, a lovelycolonial church, and its own Incaruins. In the pretty main square,you can still see the huge stonesand 10 trapezoidal niches of an Inca wall, originally part of aroyal palace. See “Urubamba” inchapter 7.

• Ollantaytambo: One of the prin-cipal villages of the Sacred Valleyof the Incas, Ollanta (as the localscall it) is a spectacularly beautifulplace along the Urubamba River;the gorge is lined by agriculturalterraces, and snowcapped peaksrise in the distance. The ruins of aformidable temple-fortress over-look the old town, a perfect grid ofstreets built by the Incas, the onlysuch layout remaining in Peru. See“Ollantaytambo” in chapter 7.

• Colca Valley Villages: Chivay, onthe edge of Colca Canyon, is thevalley’s main town, but it isn’tmuch more than a laid-back mar-ket town with fantastic hot springson its outskirts. Dotting the ColcaValley and its extraordinary agri-cultural terracing are 14 charmingcolonial villages dating to the 16thcentury, each marked by its attrac-tively decorated church. Yanque,Coporaque, Maca, and Lari areamong the cutest towns. Natives inthe valley are descendants of thepre-Inca ethnic communities Co-llaguas and Cabanas, and theymaintain the vibrant style of tradi-tional dress, highlighted by fantas-tically embroidered and sequinedhats. See “A Typical Guided Tourof Colca Valley” on p. 318.

• Cajamarca: A gem of a small town,a mini-Cusco in the northern highlands, delightful Cajamarcasurprisingly doesn’t get muchtourist traffic. Beautifully framedby the Andes and sumptuous greencountryside, with a historic core of colonial buildings where animportant Inca city once stood,Cajamarca is elegant and easygo-ing. It’s also very well positionedfor day trips into the country andto fascinating archaeological sites;indeed, several of Peru’s nicest andmost relaxing country hotels arelocated here. See “Cajamarca” inchapter 10.

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6 The Best Outdoor Experiences• Trekking in the Sacred Valley:

The most famous trek outsideCusco is, of course, the Inca Trailto Machu Picchu. But if you’re notup to 4 strenuous days with agroup along a highly structuredtrail, there are plenty of additionalhiking options in the Sacred Valley. Other trails are much lesscrowded and share some of thesame extraordinary scenery. Ollan-taytambo and Yucay are the bestbases for walks in the pretty coun-tryside of the Urubamba Valley.See chapter 7.

• Running Big-Time WhiteWater: Just beyond Cusco in theUrubamba Valley are some excel-lent river runs, ranging from mildto world-class. Novices can do 1-day trips to get a taste of thisthrilling sport, while more experi-enced rafters can take multidaytrips and even hard-core raftingjourneys along the TambopataRiver in the Amazon jungle. Thearea around Arequipa and theColca Canyon in southern Peru iseven better for rafting. The easiestand most convenient runs fromArequipa are on the Río Chili.More advanced rafting, rangingup to Class VI, beckons on the Río Majes, Río Colca, and Río Cotahuasi. See “ExtremeSacred Valley: Outdoor AdventureSports” on p. 236, and “Colca Valley” in chapter 8.

• Exploring Colca Canyon: Perhapssecond only to the Callejón deHuaylas Valley in northern Perufor quality independent hiking isColca Canyon. One of the mostcelebrated is the descent into thecanyon itself, from the Cruz delCóndor lookout. There are othersthat are even longer and moredemanding, but more accessiblehikes are also possible; walking

from one village to another in thevalley should satisfy most peoples’urges to get outdoors. Excursionson horseback throughout the valleyand into the canyon are also possi-ble. Hard-core sports enthusiastsmight take on remote CotahuasiCanyon, deeper and more ruggedeven than Colca. See “Colca Val-ley” in chapter 8.

• Mountain & Volcano ClimbingNear Arequipa: For mountaineers(and fit, adventurous travelers), thevolcanoes just beyond Arequipa areperfect for some of Peru’s bestascents. Several don’t demand tech-nical skills. Towering El Misti,which forms part of the Arequipaskyline, is an extremely popularclimb, and the city’s other majorvolcano, Chachani, also presents anaccessible ascent. Peaks in theColca Valley are great for seriousclimbers, such as the Ampato Vol-cano and Coropuna, which, atmore than 6,425m (21,075 ft.) isperhaps the most stunning moun-tain in the Cotahuasi Valley and is for specialists only. See “ColcaValley” in chapter 8.

• Spotting Birds & Wildlife in thePeruvian Amazon: Peru’s Amazonrainforest is some of the most bio-logically diverse on the planet. Thesoutheastern jungle and its twoprincipal protected areas, the Tam-bopata-Candamo Nature Reserveand the Manu Biosphere Reserve,are terrific for viewing wildlife andmore than 1,000 species of birds.One of the great birding spectaclesis the sight of thousands of macawsand parrots feeding at a clay lick.Keep your eyes peeled for moreelusive wildlife, such as caimans,river otters, and even jaguars andtapirs. See “The Southern AmazonJungle” in chapter 9.

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• Surfing the Waves of Peru’sPacific Coast: Brazil might havemore popular recognition as asurfing destination, but wave con-noisseurs dig Peru, with 2,000km(1,200 miles) of Pacific coastlineand a great variety of left and rightreef breaks, point breaks, and big-time waves. Beaches are mostlyuncrowded, but the water is cold,and most surfers wear wet suitsyear-round. More than two dozenbeaches attract surfistas. NorthernPeru, best from October to March,is the top choice of many; surfershang out in the easygoing fishingvillage of Huanchaco, but thebiggest and best waves in Peru arefound at Puerto Chicama (alsocalled Puerto Malabrigo), about80km (50 miles) up the coast fromTrujillo. The best beaches insouthern Peru, where surfing isbest from April to December (andat its peak in May), are Punta Her-mosa, Punta Rocas, Cerro Azul,and Pico Alto. See “Side Tripsfrom Lima” in chapter 4, and“Trujillo” in chapter 10.

• Trekking & Climbing in theCordillera Blanca: The CordilleraBlanca, the highest tropical moun-tain chain in the world, is almostwholly contained in the protected

Huascarán National Park. Forwalkers and mountaineers, thescenery of snowcapped peaks, gla-ciers, lakes, and rivers is unrivaledin Peru. Fifty summits soar between4,800 and 6,662m (15,744–21,851 ft.) high, so naturally, expertmountaineers are drawn to theCordillera, but trekking and climb-ing opportunities abound for lessexperienced outdoors types. Theclassic trek is the 4- to 5-day SantaCruz–Llanganuco route, one of themost beautiful in South America.See “Huaraz & the CordilleraBlanca” in chapter 10.

• Mountain Biking in the Calle-jón de Huaylas: Mountain bikingis just really developing some legsin Peru. The top spot is the valleynear the Cordillera Blanca, thepristine mountain range in centralPeru. Hundreds of mountain andvalley horse trails lace lush fieldsand push past picturesque Andeanvillages and alpine lakes. Hard-core peddlers can test their lungcapacity climbing to 5,000m(16,400-ft.) mountain passes. Forcycling camaraderie, check out theSemana del Andinismo in Huaraz,which features a mountain-bikecompetition. See “Huaraz & theCordillera Blanca” in chapter 10.

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7 The Best Architecture• Colonial Lima: The old center of

Lima Centro preserves a wealth of fine colonial-era buildings thathave survived fires, earthquakes,and decades of inattention.Churches include San Pedro (thebest-preserved example of earlycolonial religious architecture inthe city), La Merced, and SanAgustín. Equally interesting arethe historic quarter’s few remain-ing casas coloniales, such as CasaRiva-Agüero, Casa Aliaga, andCasa de Osambela Oquendo.Others, including the famous

Palacio Torre Tagle, are no longeropen to the public. See “What toSee & Do” in chapter 4.

• Cusco’s Inca Masonry: Every-where in Cusco’s old center arestunning Inca walls, made of giantgranite blocks so amazingly carvedthat they fit together, without mor-tar, like jigsaw puzzle pieces. Forthe most part, the colonial archi-tecture has not stood up nearly aswell as the Incas’ bold structures,which are virtually earthquake-proof. The best examples are thecurved stones at Qoricancha; along

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Hatunrumiyoc, an alleyway linedwith polygonal stones and featur-ing a 12-angled stone; and anotherpedestrian-only alleyway, IncaRoca, which has a series of stonesthat forms the shape of a puma. See“The Magic of Inca Stones: AWalking Tour” on p. 214.

• Moray: A peculiar Inca site with amystical reputation, Moray isn’tthe Inca version of the NascaLines, although it sure looks like itcould be. A series of inscrutableringed terraces sculpted in theearth, the deep-set bowls formedan experimental agricultural cen-ter to test new crops and condi-tions. The different levels producemicroclimates, with remarkabledifferences in temperature fromtop to bottom. See “Urubamba”in chapter 7.

• Ollantaytambo’s Old Town:Though Ollanta is best known forits Inca ruins perched on an out-crop, equally spectacular is thegrid of perfectly constructed can-chas, or city blocks, that reveal theIncas as masterful urban plannersas well as stonemasons. The 15th-century canchas, amazingly pre-served, each had a single entranceopening onto a main courtyard.Rippling alongside the lovelystone streets run canals that carrywater down from the mountains.See “Ollantaytambo” in chapter 7.

• Machu Picchu’s Temple of theSun: Even as ruins, Machu Picchurises to the stature of great archi-tecture. Its brilliant elements ofdesign and stonemasonry are to befound around every corner, butperhaps the greatest example ofarchitectural prowess is the Tem-ple of the Sun. A tapered tower, ithas the finest stonework in MachuPicchu. A perfectly positionedwindow allows the sun’s rays tocome streaming through at dawnon the South American winter

solstice in June, illuminating thestone at the center of the temple.A cave below the temple, carvedout of the rock, has a beautifullysculpted altar and series of nichesthat create mesmerizing morningshadows. See “Machu Picchu &the Inca Trail” in chapter 7.

• Colonial Arequipa: The colonialcore of Arequipa, Peru’s secondcity, is the most graceful and harmonious in the country. Mostof its elegant mansions andchurches are carved from sillar, orwhite volcanic stone. The Plaza deArmas is one of the prettiest mainsquares in Peru, even though thecathedral was recently damaged bya major earthquake. Other colo-nial churches of note are La Com-pañía, San Francisco, San Agustín,and the Monasterio de la Reco-leta. Arequipa also has some ofPeru’s finest colonial seigniorialhomes, which feature beautifulcourtyards, elaborately carvedstone facades, and period furnish-ings. Don’t miss Casa del Moral,Casa Ricketts, and Casa Arróspide.See “Arequipa” in chapter 8.

• Iquitos’s Unique Structures: Ahumid Amazon river city, Iquitosmight not be a place you’d expect tofind distinguished architecture, butthe rubber barons who made for-tunes in the 19th century lined theMalecón Tarapacá riverfront withhandsome mansions covered in colorful Portuguese glazed tiles, orazulejos. The best are Casa Hernán-dez, Casa Cohen, Casa Morey, andthe Logia Unión Amazónica. Alsocheck out the Casa de Fierro,designed by Gustave Eiffel andentirely constructed of iron in Parisand shipped to Peru, or the wildwooden houses on stilts in theoften-flooded shantytown districtof Belén. See “Iquitos & the North-ern Amazon” in chapter 9.

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• Trujillo’s Casas Antiguas: Thecolorful pastel facades and uniqueiron window grilles of Trujillo’scolonial- and republican-era housesrepresent one of Peru’s finest archi-tectural ensembles. Several havesplendid interior courtyards andmudéjar-style (Moorish-Christian)details. Fine homes grace the lovelyPlaza de Armas and the streets thatradiate out from it. Among thoseoutfitted with historic furnishingsand open to the public are PalacioIturregui, Casa Urquiaga (whereSimón Bolívar once lived), Casa dela Emancipación, Casa GanozaChopitea, and Casa Orbegoso. See“Trujillo” in chapter 10.

• Cumbe Mayo’s Aqueduct: Thisweird and wonderful spot nearCajamarca draws visitors for itsstrange rock formations that mimica stone forest, but a structure engineered by man, a pre-Incaaqueduct constructed around 1000B.C., is pure genius. The extraordi-nary 8km (5-mile) canal is carvedfrom volcanic stone in perfect linesto collect and redirect water on itsway to the Pacific Ocean. Rightangles slow the flow of water andease the effects of erosion. Theaqueduct is likely the oldest man-made structure in South America.See “Cajamarca” in chapter 10.

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8 The Best Festivals & Celebrations• Fiesta de la Cruz (across Peru):

The Festival of the Cross isn’t as solemnly Catholic as it mightsound. Best in Lima, Cusco, andIca, the festival does features crossprocessions (although the deco-rated crosses are vibrant), but italso displays a surfeit of folk musicand dance, the highlight being thedaring “scissors dancers,” who onceperformed on top of churches.

• El Señor de los Milagros (Lima):The Artist Once Again Known asPrince would love this highly religious procession, with tens ofthousands of participants all clad in bright purple. The Lord of Mir-acles, the largest procession inSouth America, lasts a full 24hours. It venerates a miraculouspainting of Jesus Christ, which wascreated by an Angolan slave andsurvived the devastating 1746earthquake, even though almosteverything around it was felled.

• Inti Raymi (Cusco): The Festivalof the Sun, one of the greatest pag-eants in South America, celebratesthe winter solstice and honors theInca sun god with a bounty of colorful Andean parades, music,

and dance. It takes over Cusco andtransforms the Sacsayhuamánruins overlooking the city into amajestic stage.

• Virgen del Carmen (Paucar-tambo): The tiny, remote Andeancolonial village of Paucartambo isabout 4 hours from Cusco, but ithosts one of Peru’s wildest festivals.Its 3 days of dance, revelry, drink-ing, and outlandish, scary costumespack in thousands who camp allover town (there’s almost nowhereto stay) and then wind up at thecemetery.

• Virgen de la Candelaria (Puno):Puno, perhaps the epicenter ofPeruvian folklore, imbues its festivals with a unique vibrancy.Candlemas (or Virgen de la Can-delaria), which is spread over 2weeks, is one of the greatest folkreligious festivals in South Amer-ica, with an explosion of music,dance, and some of the most fantastic costumes and masks seenanywhere.

• Puno Week (Puno): Puno, thefiesta capital of Peru, rises to theoccasion for a full week everyNovember to mark its Amerindian

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roots. A huge procession from LakeTiticaca into town remembers thelegend of the first Inca emperor,who emerged from the world’s

highest navigable lake to establishthe Inca Empire. The processiondeviates into dance, music, andoblivion.

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9 The Best Hotels• Miraflores Park Hotel, Lima

(& 01/242-3000): Perhaps thetop business traveler’s hotel inLima, this oasis of refinement andluxury is small enough to cater toyour every whim. The Park Hotelis the height of style, with hand-some, spacious rooms; huge bath-rooms; and an elegant restaurantand bar. There’s a small pool and agym/sauna on the top floor, over-looking the malecón, parks, andthe coastline. See p. 114.

• Country Club Lima Hotel, Lima(& 01/611-9000): A recentlyrevived hacienda-style hotel fromthe 1920s, this grand estate is lux-urious and has plenty of character,but it remains a relaxed placethat’s good for families. Given itshigh standards, it’s not a bad deal,either. At this good retreat fromthe stress of modern Lima, thecountry club aspect isn’t neg-lected: Golf and tennis are bothavailable. See p. 120.

• Hotel Libertador, Cusco (& 084/231-961): This distinguished lux-ury hotel in Cusco is just a coupleof blocks from the Plaza de Armasand right across the street from theInca Temple of the Sun. Elegantand traditional, with excellent service, the Libertador inhabits acolonial house where FranciscoPizarro once lived. Full of art andantiques, the rooms are refinedwith colonial touches. See p. 190.

• Hotel Monasterio, Cusco (& 084/241-777): Extraordinarily carvedout of a 16th-century monastery,itself built over the foundations ofan Inca palace, this Orient-Expresshotel is the most dignified and his-toric place to stay in Peru. With its

own gilded chapel and 18th-century Cusco School art collec-tion, it’s an attraction in its own right. Rooms are gracefullydecorated with colonial touches,particularly the rooms off the serenefirst courtyard. See p. 192.

• Hotel Sol y Luna, Urubamba (& 084/201-620): Relaxed andelegant, amid manicured gardensand gorgeous mountain views,this relatively new Sacred Valleyhotel is a great place to hang out awhile. Rooms are individual, cir-cular rustic bungalows. With anexcellent restaurant, horse stables,and an adventure club, you won’tlack for things to do, but thegrounds and vistas are so prettythat you might want to do noth-ing at all. See p. 240.

• Hotel Pakaritampu, Ollantay-tambo (& 084/204-020): Moreof an inn than a hotel, this newplace is rustic and intimate, with agreat fireplace bar and lovely gar-dens, but it’s also big enough forsome privacy. It’s eminently taste-ful but still fits in very well with itslow-key surroundings. See p. 249.

• Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge,Machu Picchu (& 084/246-419):Peru’s best-known hotel has one ofthe world’s most enviable locations,perched high on a mountain, justpaces from the ruins of Machu Pic-chu. Charmingly rustic, with a nicerestaurant and spectacular gardensboasting jaw-dropping views of theInca citadel, it is always in highdemand, even though it costs avery pretty penny for the privilegeof a stay. See p. 273.

• Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel,Aguas Calientes (& 084/211-032,

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or 084/245-314 for reservations):It’s not next to the ruins, but thisrustic hotel is a compound of bun-galows ensconced in lush tropicalgardens and cloud forest, and it’sthe nicest place in Aguas Calientes.With lots of nature trails andguided activities, it’s also great fornaturalists. And after a day atMachu Picchu, the spring-fed poolis a great alternative to the thermalbaths in town. Junior suites, withfireplaces and small terraces, aregood deals. See p. 273.

• Sonesta Posada del Inca LakeTiticaca, Puno (& 051/364-111):Gracing the shores of Lake Titi-caca, this hotel is warmly designed,with a roaring fireplace and lots ofPeruvian art. Rooms are spaciousand comfortable, and many havegreat views of the lake. Familiesmight be especially interested inthe tiny version of a Lake Titicacafloating community. See p. 290.

• Hotel Libertador Arequipa, Arequipa (& 054/215-110):Housed in a nice 1940s-era colo-nial-style building a bit removedfrom the colonial center of Arequipa, this upscale hotel has arelaxed, almost homey feel. It has

authentic colonial touches andplenty of space to stretch out, aswell as a large outdoor pool andlush gardens. A good family hotel,it has a game area for children. Seep. 305.

• Hotel El Dorado Plaza, Iquitos(& 065/222-555): Although notoverly fancy or oozing with char-acter, the El Dorado Plaza is by farthe best place to stay in Iquitos. It was the first-ever luxury hotel in town, and it boasts a perfectlocation on the Plaza de Armasand good service. Rooms are large,and the great pool is a fine place torelax after a jungle excursion. It’s avery good value if you get a deal,too. See p. 356.

• Hotel Posada del Puruay, Caja-marca (& 076/828-318, or 01/336-7869 for reservations): In thegorgeous highland countryside justoutside Cajamarca, this countryhotel is a restored 1830 farmhouse.The great grounds, with gardens,horses, and amenities such as a bar-becue pit, are sure-fire sellingpoints, but the inn also has hugerooms, friendly personal service, avery good restaurant, and an exten-sive video library. See p. 399.

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10 The Best Small Hotels & Hostales• La Posada del Parque Hostal,

Lima (& 01/433-2412): A gregar-ious owner runs this great-valuesmall inn, carved out of a 1920smansion on an exceedingly peace-ful street—a rare commodity nearthe center of Lima. The housebursts with Peruvian popular art,and rooms are spacious and nicelymaintained for the bargain price.See p. 114.

• Hotel Antigua Miraflores, Lima(& 01/241-6116): This charmingmidsize hotel is in a century-oldmansion full of Peruvian touches.The house is tastefully decorated

with colonial Peruvian art, butwith a laid-back atmosphere. Builtaround a leafy courtyard, it’s apeaceful respite within the hub-bub of Miraflores and the rest ofLima. See p. 116.

• Niños Hotel, Cusco (& 084/231-424): Even if this great littleinn had no redeeming social andmoral value, it would still be one ofthe best informal places to stay inPeru. The fact that it operates aspart of a foundation that dedicatesits profits to helping and housingCusco’s street children is a welcomebonus. The small Dutch-owned

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hotel, located in a restored andnicely if simply decorated colonialhouse, is charming, immaculate,and a great value. The trick is getting a reservation—try manymonths in advance of your arrival.See p. 198.

• Casa de Campo Hostal, Cusco(& 084/243-069): Way up in thehills of the San Blas district, thisexuberantly friendly place enjoyssome of the best views in all ofCusco. The chalet-style rooms arechilly but comfortable and are agood value. The hike up the hilland the unending stairs leading tothe hotel are tough, so it’s nicethat you can relax on the fantasticterraces or in the fireplace lounge.See p. 198.

• Hostal Marani, Cusco (& 084/249-462): Cusco is littered with allkinds of comfortable, good-valuehostales, but this one, much likethe Niños Hotel, wears its heartand commitment to social causesand disadvantaged Peruvian youthon its doorstep. Helping to fundinitiatives of a Dutch foundation,the inn, which occupies a lovelycolonial house in San Blas, is one ofthe best bargains in town, withexcellent large rooms built arounda relaxing Spanish-style courtyard.It’s a win-win. See p. 200.

• Hostal Pisaq, Pisac (&/fax 084/203-062): On the main square ofPisac, which is overrun on marketdays, this friendly little inn hasneat features for a budget hostel:hand-painted murals, a sauna, anattractive courtyard, and a littlecafe serving home-cooked mealsand great pizza from a wood-burning oven. See p. 236.

• K’uychi Rumi, Urubamba (& 084/976-0356): In the tranquilSacred Valley, this small communeof rustic adobe houses, leased likecondos (for short- or long-term

stays), is a perfect option for anyoneseeking a bit of privacy and totalrelaxation. The two-bedroom, two-story houses are set amid gardensand have kitchens and fantastic fire-places. Couples or a family of fourcan cook in and pretend they’ve gota weekend house within easy reachof Machu Picchu. See p. 241.

• El Albergue, Ollantaytambo(&/fax 084/204-014): An Ameri-can-owned hostel right next to therailroad tracks—but much quieterthan that would indicate—thiscomfortable little place has just afew rooms and shared bathrooms.Beds are excellent, and the vibe,with relaxing gardens and Labradorretrievers running around, is great.There’s also a cool wood-firedsauna. See p. 249.

• La Casa de Melgar Hostal, Are-quipa (&/fax 054/222-459): In apretty colonial house made of sil-lar stone, this small inn exudesstyle and charm. With thick walls,multiple interior courtyards, andgardens, it’s much nicer than mostinexpensive hotels. Ground-floorrooms with vaulted brick ceilingslook like they’re straight out of amovie shoot. See p. 307.

• La Casa de Mi Abuela Hostal,Arequipa (& 054/241-206):Though this extremely friendlyand well-run small hotel contin-ues to grow, it retains much of itsoriginal B&B character. A self-contained resort, it now features arestaurant, a peña music bar, apool, a game room, great gardens,and an excellent travel agency.Some rooms pale in comparison tothe facilities, but you can’t beat theservices and security. See p. 307.

• Parador de Colca, Yanque (& 054/288-440): There is a bur-geoning number of rustic, country-style inns along the edge of ColcaCanyon, any one of which is easily

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recommended, but this is a trav-eler’s favorite. In a local naturereserve near Yanque, this Swedish-owned eco-lodge has great views ofColca. Rooms have loft spaces, andthere are private patios with firepits, as well as lots of hiking andhorseback-riding opportunities.Check it out now while it’s a bar-gain, or when it becomes propertyof Orient-Express and gets anupgrade. See p. 322.

• Hacienda San Vicente, Caja-marca (& 076/822-644): A smalland funky inn in a formerhacienda, this unique place proba-bly isn’t for everyone. Its oddballrooms are like caves carved intothe hillside (rock walls even form aheadboard or two). Everything isjust a tad “off,” but delightfully so.With skylights for moon viewsand a Gaudí-esque chapel on thepremises, this place isn’t afraid tobe itself. See p. 399.

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11 The Best Local Dining Experiences• Barbecuing Peruvian-Style: The

Peruvian version of a barbecue get-together is called a pachamanca; it’sbasically cooking meat and veggiesover coals or hot stones in a hole inthe ground. On weekends in thecountryside, mostly in the moun-tains, you’ll see families gatheredaround smoky subterranean grills,cooking up pork or beef and pota-toes and vegetables. (You can alsoget pachamanca-style dishes insome traditional restaurants.)

• Chugging Chicha: An ancientAndean tradition is the brewing ofchicha, beer made from fermentedmaize. You can find it at a few tra-ditional restaurants, but for anauthentic Andean experience, thebest place to get it is at a simple baror home that flies the chicha flag—a long pole with a red flag or, often,balloon—which is the local way ofadvertising that there’s home-brewed chicha available inside.Served warm, in monstrous tum-blers for a few pennies, it’s not tomany foreigners’ liking, but it’s oneof the best ways to go native.Chicha morada, a refreshmentmade from blue corn, is somethingaltogether different: It’s sweet andnonalcoholic, and it actually tastesgood (especially with ceviche).

• Going Native with Jungle Cui-sine: Peru’s vast Amazon is full of

exotic critters and plants, so it’slogical that it would produce itsown unique cuisine. Some of whatrestaurateurs deal in is endangeredanimals, though, so I don’t advisesatisfying your curiosity to try sea-turtle soup or caiman, even if thelocals do it. Local jungle dishesthat you don’t have to feel badabout trying include patarashca, asteamed river fish wrapped inbanana leaves; juanes, a kind ofrice tamale; timbuche, a thick soupmade with local fish; paiche, anAmazon-size local fish; andchonta, a hearts of palm salad. Seechapter 9.

• Relaxing at a Quinta: There are elegant restaurants in Lima,Cusco, Arequipa, and Iquitos, but there’s nothing quite like aninformal quinta—an open-airrestaurant specializing in Andeanhome-cooking. It’s an Andean tradition perhaps best explored inthe crisp air of Cusco, which has atrio of quintas that are especiallypopular with locals on weekends.Look for informal garden orcourtyard settings, large portionsof Peruvian cooking, and reason-able prices. Most quintas are openonly for lunch, so plan on it asyour main meal of the day. Notonly will you eat well, but it’s also a great way to spend a sunny

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afternoon. See “Cusco’s Quintas”on p. 206.

• Savoring a Pisco Sour: Peru’snational drink is the pisco sour, adelicious concoction made fromthe white-grape brandy calledpisco. Made frothy when mixedwith egg whites, lemon juice, sugar,and bitters, it’s cold and complex,the closest thing to a Peruvian margarita. Try one with ceviche ora robust Andean meal—or justknock ’em back late at night at agringo-filled bar.

• Self-Medicating with Mate deCoca: Coca-leaf tea, a perfectlylegal local drink that has been atradition in the Andes for cen-turies, is a great way to deal withthe high altitude of the mountains,which can make your head spinand your body reel. As soon as youhit Cusco or Puno, head straightfor the mate de coca—most hotelshave it at ready for their guests.And if that doesn’t work, strap onthe oxygen tank (many hotels supply that for their guests, too).

• Slurping Ceviche: One of theclassic dishes of Peruvian coastal

cooking is ceviche—raw fish andshellfish marinated in lime orlemon juice and hot chile peppers,and served with raw onion, sweetpotato, and toasted corn. It’s won-derfully refreshing and spicy. Thebest place to try one? A seasidecevichería, specializing in umpteenvarieties of deliciously freshceviche.

• Touring Ica’s Bodegas: Peru, oneof the great winemaking countriesof the world? Probably not, butthe southern desert coast doeshave a thriving wine industry. Themost famous product is pisco, butthe many traditional bodegas(wineries) throughout the Icacountryside also make regulartable wines. A few bodegas givetours and tastings. Ica hosts a hop-ping Wine Festival in March,which is a good time to tour theregion if you’re into wine and gen-eral merriment. Harvest time, lateFebruary through April, is theother time to visit, when you cansee people crushing grapes theold-fashioned way—with theirfeet. See “Ica” in chapter 5.

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12 The Best Restaurants• Astrid y Gastón, Lima (& 01/

444-1496): One of the coolestrestaurants in the country is thisstylish modern place serving a creative brand of creole-Mediter-ranean fare. Behind a nondescriptfacade in the Miraflores district, ahusband/wife team cooks andruns the colorful colonial diningroom and cozy bar, favored byLimeño regulars. See p. 124.

• La Hamaca, Lima (& 01/445-4042): A mansion stuffed to therafters with priceless Peruvian artand antiques, and a maze of spec-tacularly decorated small diningrooms is a cinematic experience.Imagine you’re the dueño of asprawling hacienda while you dine

on classic Peruvian preparations.Retire upstairs for an elegantevening of dancing on weekends.See p. 124.

• Las Brujas de Cachiche, Lima(& 01/447-1883): Celebrating2,000 years of local culture andpre-Columbian Peruvian cuisinewith ancient recipes and ingredi-ents, this sophisticated place is afavorite of local businesspeopleand diplomats. It serves classicPeruvian dishes, such as ají de gallina (chile cream chicken), withinnovative twists. For a treat,check out the daily lunch buffetand frequent gastronomic festi-vals. See p. 125.

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• Restaurant Huaca Pucllana, Lima(& 01/242-7978): One of the bestplaces for dining in the capital hasthe most unique location: withinthe compound of a 1,500-year-oldadobe pyramid. The restaurant isboth hip and relaxed, with a cov-ered terrace looking out over thelow pyramid and illuminated exca-vation walkways. The creativePeruvian menu offers new twistson classic comida criolla (creolecooking). See p. 125.

• Manos Morenas, Lima (& 01/467-0421): The best place fordinner and a show in Lima, thissleek Barranco restaurant servesgood criollo cooking and featurespeña and Afro-Peruvian musicand dance nightly. It’s housed inan elegant early 1900s house, veryappealingly converted. The show’snot inexpensive, but it’s usually agreat evening out. See p. 129.

• Restaurante Illary, Cusco (& 084/243-820): Cusco’s top fine-diningoption is within the exclusive confines of the best hotel in town.Even if the hotel is out of reach, therestaurant makes the perfect splurgedate in Cusco. Whether you sit inthe glassed-in corridor overlookingthe colonial patio or the main dining room that very much looks the part of 16th-century monastery,dining here is a true treat. ThePeruvian specialties, like the dis-creet service, are impeccable. Seep. 201.

• Inka Grill, Cusco (& 084/262-992): A popular place on the Plazade Armas, Inka Grill servesAndean cooking with a fresh twistin relaxed surroundings—perfectfor Cusco. Try something spicyand new, or an internationalstandby, such as pizza, pasta, andrisotto. See p. 202.

• MAP Café, Cusco (& 084/242-476): Cusco’s newest and mostchic restaurant is tucked into the

colonial patio of the city’s greatnew pre-Columbian art museum.It quietly makes a dramatic state-ment with its understated, mini-malist design: a glass and steelbox. The food, nouveau Andean,is every bit as elegant and cleanlypresented. With a super wine listand the opportunity to strollthrough the museum after dinner,it’s a perfect, sophisticated daterestaurant. See p. 202.

• Greens, Cusco (& 084/243-820): A small and stylish restaurantin the cool San Blas district, Greenshas a creative menu and funkydecor, including low, comfy sofasand hipster tunes. The excellent,surprising menus of internationaland Peruvian dishes are reasonablypriced. See p. 205.

• Killa Wasi, Huicho (& 084/201-620): Now that La Casa de laAbuela is open only part-time, mynext favorite spot in the valley isthe restaurant of Hotel Sol yLuna, the best hotel in the SacredValley. The restaurant is elegantbut relaxed, and the menu is fullof creative criollo and nouveauAndean dishes. The pub upstairsis a good spot for a pisco sour latein the day. See “Urubamba” inchapter 7.

• Indio Feliz, Aguas Calientes (& 084/211-090): The town atthe bottom of Machu Picchu is alittle scrappy, so this Peruvian-French restaurant really stands out.In an attractive and very populartwo-level dining room, it offers agreat-value three-course menu. Ifby chance you just completed the4-day Inca Trail trek, treat yourselfto a meal here. See p. 275.

• Sol de Mayo, Arequipa (& 054/254-148): This is the best place intown for traditional Arequipeñocooking, which has quite a reputa-tion in Peru. The setting, around acourtyard garden where strolling

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musicians play, is delightful. It’s a perfect place to sink your teethinto local Peruvian specialties andis a great place to splurge. See p. 311.

• Zig Zag, Arequipa (& 054/206-020): This cute, chic, and invitingrestaurant has a unique specialty:stone-grilled ostrich. Healthierthan other meats, ostrich is reallygood, as is another popular dishserved here: alpaca (which is alsohealthier than red meat). In thistwo-level space with sillar walls andvaulted ceilings, the grilled meat isnot the only thing that makes thisa memorable dining experience.See p. 311.

• Montecarlo, Iquitos (& 065/232-246): The northern Amazon city ofIquitos has a handful of goodrestaurants serving Peruvian andjungle specialties, but this newupscale place—glitzy on the outsidebut relaxed and elegant on theinside—is the best. Fish dishes areexcellent, as is the service. If youwant, you can gamble downstairs atthe casino. See p. 359.

• Club Colonial, Huanchaco (& 044/461-015): An unexpect-edly chic and stylish restaurant

in the low-key beach resort ofHuanchaco, this Belgian-Frenchplace has the kind of ambienceyou’d look to find in Barranco inLima, not the north coast. Thecandlelit dining room is like a coolexpatriate’s house, and the menu isa tantalizing mix of Peruvian andFranco-Belgian items. Whetheryou order meat or fresh fish, oreven a Belgian standard, you’re infor a treat. See p. 379.

• Pueblo Viejo, Chiclayo (& 074/228-863): Chiclayo might not bethe dining capital of Peru, but itsbest restaurant is very good. Anattractive two-story eatery thatserves traditional but creative Chi-clayano cooking and comida criolla,Pueblo Viejo really stands out inthe north of Peru. See p. 390.

• El Querubino, Cajamarca (& 076/830-900): A brightlydecorated restaurant just off thePlaza de Armas, El Querubino isrefined and stylish, but relaxedenough to be popular with locals.Dinner often features live but low-key music, and at lunch there’sa nice daily list of value specials.See p. 402.

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13 The Best Markets & Shopping• Miraflores, Lima: The Peruvian

capital has the biggest number ofshops and selection of goods fromacross the country, as might beexpected. The Miraflores districthas dozens of shops stocked to therafters with handicrafts fromaround Peru. For one-stop shop-ping, there are mini-malls ofmany stalls selling ceramics, tex-tiles, and other souvenirs. Thebest silver jewelry and antiquesshops are also in Miraflores. See“Shopping” in chapter 4.

• Barrio de San Blas, Cusco: Gal-leries around the Plaza de Armas ofthe old Inca capital are wonderful

for all kinds of wool and alpacafashions and silver jewelry. Butespecially flavorful is the pictur-esque and bohemian neighbor-hood of San Blas, which rises intothe hills above Cusco, burstingwith the studios and workshops ofartists and artisans, as well as artgalleries and ceramics shops. Youcan pop into several studios andsee artists at work. See “Shopping”in chapter 6.

• Pisac’s Market: Thousands oftourists descend each Sundaymorning on Pisac’s liveliest handi-crafts market, which takes over the central plaza and spills across

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adjoining streets. Many sellers,decked out in the dress typical oftheir villages, come from remotepopulations high in the mountains.Pisac is one of the best spots forcolorful Andean textiles, includingrugs, alpaca sweaters, and ponchos.See “Pisac” in chapter 7.

• Pablo Seminario, Urubamba:Urubamba leaves the Sundaytourist handicrafts markets toother towns in the Sacred Valley,but it’s home to one of the coolestceramics shops in Peru. PabloSeminario, originally from thenorth of the country, now operatesout of a lovely place that is equalparts home, workshop, storefront,and zoo. His work features funkypre-Columbian motifs. See“Urubamba” in chapter 7.

• Chinchero’s Handicrafts Mar-ket: It’s not as popular as Pisac’smarket, but in many ways,Chinchero’s is more authentic,and the setting is just as spectacu-lar. The big one is on Sunday,when the tourist buses comethrough, but less-hectic Tuesdayand Thursday are probably betterfor making a deal. The quality of handicrafts is usually quite excel-lent. Take your camera; the sellersstill wear traditional garments. See“Urubamba” in chapter 7.

• Isla Taquile, Lake Titicaca: TheTaquile islanders are famous fortheir dress and exquisite textiles.Travelers can pick up some of the finest woven and embroideredwaistbands and wool stockingcaps in Peru, including some thatare normally reserved for commu-nity authorities. Because they’re sofinely made, Taquile textiles are

more expensive than the mass-produced handicrafts you’ll findelsewhere in Peru. Islanders oper-ate a co-op on the main plaza andsell from stalls during festivals. See “Puno & Lake Titicaca” inchapter 8.

• Arequipa: Alpaca sweaters, pon-chos, and hats are classic Peruviansouvenirs, and you can score themacross the Andes and in Lima, butArequipa is the top spot for reallyexcellent export-quality goods.You’ll find great designs in babyalpaca, vicuña, and wool. Visit anyof the shops near the Plaza deArmas, including the alpaca bou-tiques that now inhabit the oldcloisters of the La Compañíachurch. Another good spot, forslightly less swank goods, is thegeneral handicrafts market (mer-cado de artesanía), whose stalls arein what used to be the old townjail. See “Arequipa” in chapter 8.

• Barrio Belén, Iquitos: Handicrafts,particularly textiles and other itemsfrom the Shipibo tribe in the Ama-zon, are available at the large artisans’ market out by the airport,but shopping of a very different sortis pursued at the popular market in the waterfront Barrio de Belén.The wildly colorful market, whichspreads over several long blocks andis a riot of activity, sells everythingunder the Amazon sun; let yoursenses be the judge. Look forunusual Amazon fish and fruits,and exotic jungle meats, such asmonkey and caiman. When itbecomes too much, take a breatherat the fresh juice stands. See “Iqui-tos & the Northern Amazon” inchapter 9.

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14 The Best Reasons for Bragging Rights• Surfing Big Sand: The southern

desert of Peru is a strange, unre-lenting landscape, but it has thehighest sand dunes in South

America. An X-sport fast gainingin popularity is surfing the duneson sand boards and areneros (dunebuggies). The biggest are near

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Nasca, but probably the prettiestspot is the dunes that ring theHuacachina Lagoon outside ofIca. See “Ica” in chapter 5.

• Gazing at the Stars at Sacsay-huamán: The Sacsayhuamánruins are amazing enough by day;imagine those immense, elegantlylaid stones at night, high aboveCusco. Night visits to the ruins arepermitted. If your visit coincideswith a full moon in that gargan-tuan sky, you’ll be talking about itback home for months. At night,it won’t be hard to perceive theIncas’ worship of the naturalworld, in which the moon was adeity. A similar experience wouldbe hiking along the Inca Trail andspending that last night beforepushing on to Machu Picchuunder a full moon. See “What toSee & Do” in chapter 6.

• Lighting It Up at Tres Cruces:Beyond the remote Andean villageof Paucartambo, known for its Virgen de Carmen festival, is TresCruces, perched on a mountainridge on the edge of the Amazonbasin. Famous for its almost hallu-cinogenic, multihued sunrise, thespot was held sacred by the Incas,and it’s not hard to see why. Dur-ing the winter months (May–July),the special effects are beyond belief.To enhance your bragging rights,note that Tres Cruces is a royal painto reach. See “Side Trips fromCusco” in chapter 6.

• Hopping the Hiram Binghamtrain to Machu Picchu: Onceupon a time, you could zip to themost famous Inca ruins by heli-copter, but for my money, the newold-world luxury train named forthe discoverer of Machu Picchu iseven better. With wood-paneledcars, full white-glove meal andcocktail service, on-board Peru-vian musicians, and an includedtour of the ruins, it’s definitely

traveling in style. Sure, it costs sev-eral times the regular tourist train,but this is Machu Picchu, right?See “Machu Picchu & the IncaTrail” in chapter 7.

• Scaling Huayna Picchu inRecord Time: Huayna Picchuhovers above Machu Picchu in theclassic postcard shot of the ruins.People of all ages and decent phys-ical condition can climb to thesummit; to properly boast, you’vegot to race the steep stone path inclose to record time (about 15min. at last report). Even if youdon’t beat the record, you cansavor the stunning, indescribableview as you wait for your heartrate to return to normal. See“Machu Picchu & the Inca Trail”in chapter 7.

• Surviving “Dead Woman’sPass”: Hiking the Inca Trail toMachu Picchu is one of the great-est ecoadventures on the planet.Enough said. See “Machu Picchu& the Inca Trail” in chapter 7.

• Running a Class VI in ColcaCanyon: Extremely technicalwhite-water rafting in the Colca(as well as Cotahuasi) Canyon isthe stuff that bragging was madefor. Imagine telling your friendsthat you hurtled down the river at the bottom of a canyon morethan twice as deep as the GrandCanyon! This is for hard-core runners only; trips are expensiveand lengthy. See “Colca Valley” inchapter 8.

• Rumbling by Truck to PuertoMaldonado: If you like tests ofsheer perseverance, travel by truckfrom Cusco to Puerto Maldonado,the gateway to the TambopataReserve in the southern Amazon.It’ll take between 3 and 10 days ona road that’s 95% unpaved, butwhat’s time (and a sore body) to agood story? See “The SouthernAmazon Jungle” in chapter 9.

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• Trippin’ Amazon-Style: If spot-ting wildlife and trekking throughprimary rainforest isn’t stimulat-ing enough, you can do your bestto imitate the ancient ways ofAmazon tribes and shamans bytaking part in an ayahuasca cere-mony. The natural hallucinogenicpotion, made of herbs, roots, andother plants, is supposed to messwith your mind. But for locals, it’sa deeply respected ritual. See“Iquitos & the Northern Ama-zon” in chapter 9.

• Fishing for Piranha: If you visit ajungle lodge, you might have theopportunity to head out on theAmazon or its tributaries in adugout canoe to fish for piranha.Most are surprisingly small, but

their famous teeth are very muchpresent. For a special dinner, havethe lodge cook fry ’em up for youthat night. See “Iquitos & theNorthern Amazon” in chapter 9.

• Bagging 6,000m Peaks in theCordillera Blanca: For expertclimbers, the Cordillera Blanca is amountaineering mecca. From Mayto September, fit climbers canscore several 6,000m (20,000-ft.)summits in the Parque NacionalHuascarán in just a couple weeks.Huascarán, at 6,768m (22,300ft.), is the big one, the highestmountain in the Peruvian Andesand the tallest tropical mountainin the world. See “Huaraz & theCordillera Blanca” in chapter 10.

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15 The Best of Peru Online• www.peru.org.pe: The most

comprehensive official Peru site,recently revamped, is the websiteof PromPerú. It has detailed sec-tions on Peruvian history, festivals,trip-planning, and outdoor “adren-aline rushes,” all with extensivepull-down menus, as well as a stockof photo and video images andaudio files.

• www.saexplorers.org: The websiteof the rightly famous South Ameri-can Explorers (based in Ithaca,New York, with clubhouses inLima, Cusco, and Quito, Ecuador)has vital information such as traveladvisories, insurance providers, andlinks to websites on specific Peru-vian destinations. You can orderthe club’s “Information Packet” offact sheets and member tips.

• http://gci275.com/peru: “Peru-vian Graffiti,” a website by anAmerican journalist and formerresident of Peru, is an engagingcompendium of Peruvian history,politics, media, and culture, as

well as the latest news, from a verypersonal perspective. It’s an inter-esting place to start to get a handleon a complicated nation.

• www.andeantravelweb.com: TheAndean Travel Web, a privatewebsite run by gringos in Peru, isa miniguide to the country, withinformation on all the major destinations and activities, trans-portation, the latest in Inca Trailregulations, local tour operators,and helpful things such as eco-tourism links.

• www.gorp.com: The travel whole-saler GORP features an entire pageof personal essays on the great out-doors and adventure sports in Peru,including pieces on running theAmazon and birding, and a Top 20of adventure activities.

• www.traficoperu.com: This onlinetravel agent has details on practicalmatters—domestic airlines, bustransportation, and hotels—plus afew cheap domestic packages.

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