The Best of Bermuda

If you’ve decided that Bermuda sounds like the perfect place to relax, feel free to startunwinding right now, because we’ve done all the legwork for you. Below you’ll findour carefully compiled lists of the best that Bermuda has to offer, from beaches anddive sites to resorts, restaurants, and sightseeing—and nearly everything else you’llwant to see and do. For the locations of many of these items, see the color maps “TheBest of Outdoor Bermuda” and “Bermuda’s Best Accommodations” at the front of thisbook.

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1 The Best BeachesYour first priority on your Bermuda vaca-tion probably will be to kick back at thebeach. But which beach? Hotels oftenhave private stretches of sand, whichwe’ve described in each accommodationreview (see chapter 4, “Where to Stay”).There are many fine public beaches aswell. Here’s our top-10 list, arrangedclockwise around the island, beginningwith the south-shore beaches closest tothe City of Hamilton. For locations, seethe color map “The Best of OutdoorBermuda” at the front of this book. Seechapter 6, “Fun in the Surf & Sun,” formore details.

• Elbow Beach (Paget Parish): Thepale pink sand stretches for almost amile at Elbow Beach, one of the mostpopular beaches in Bermuda. At leastthree hotels sit on its perimeter.Because protective coral reefs sur-round it, Elbow Beach is one of thesafest beaches on the island for swim-ming. Around Easter, it tends to bepacked with college students whoinvade Bermuda for College Weeks.See p. 142.

• Astwood Cove (Warwick Parish): Atthe bottom of the steep, winding

road that intersects with South Road,this beach is so remote that it’s rarelyovercrowded. Come here when youwant to be alone. The trees andshrubbery of Astwood Park provide averdant backdrop. See p. 143.

• Warwick Long Bay (WarwickParish): This popular beach, on thesouth side of South Shore Park, fea-tures a half-mile stretch of sandagainst a backdrop of scrubland andlow grasses. Despite frequent winds,an offshore reef keeps the waves sur-prisingly small. Less than 60m (200ft.) offshore, a jagged coral islandappears to be floating above thewater. There is excellent snorkelinghere—the waters are clear and marinelife comes in close to shore. See p. 143.

• Chaplin Bay (Warwick andSouthampton parishes): At the south-ern extremity of South Shore Park,straddling the boundary of twoparishes, this small but secludedbeach almost completely disappearsduring storms and particularly hightides. An open-air coral barrier risesfrom the water, partially separating

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• Horseshoe Bay (SouthamptonParish): This is Bermuda’s mostfamous beach, and it’s one of the bestfor families. Unlike most islandbeaches, Horseshoe Bay has a life-guard on duty from May to Septem-ber. The Horseshoe Bay Beach Cafe(& 441/238-2651) offers complete

facilities, including watersports equip-ment rental. See p. 144.

• Church Bay (Southampton Parish):If you like to snorkel, this south-western beach is for you. The relativelycalm waters, sheltered by offshorereefs, harbor a variety of marine life.Sunbathers love the unusually deep,pink sands of this beach. See p. 146.

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T H E B E S T B E A C H E S 7

• Somerset Long Bay (Sandys Parish):The waters off this beach are oftenunsafe for swimming, but its isola-tion will appeal to anyone who wantsto escape the crowds. With about aquarter-mile of sand, the crescent-shaped beach is ideal for strolling.The undeveloped parkland of SandysParish shelters it from the rest of theisland. See p. 146.

• Shelly Bay (Hamilton Parish): Onthe north shore, you’ll discover calmwaters and soft, pink sand—andyou’ll want for nothing else. Thisbeach is well known among beachbuffs, but it’s rarely overcrowded andthere’s always a spot in the sun justwaiting for you. See p. 146.

• Tobacco Bay (St. George Parish): Apopular stretch of pale pink sand,

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this is the most frequented beach onSt. George’s Island. It offers lots offacilities, including equipmentrentals and a snack bar. See p. 146.

• John Smith’s Bay (Smith’s Parish):The only public beach in Smith’sParish is long and flat. It boasts the

pale pink sand for which the southshore is famous. There’s usually a life-guard on duty from May to Septem-ber—a plus for families. There aretoilet and changing facilities on-site.See p. 147.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F B E R M U D A8

2 The Best Outdoor PursuitsSee chapter 6, “Fun in the Surf & Sun,” fordetails on arranging any of these activities.

• Golf: Known for its outstandingcourses, Bermuda attracts the world’sleading golfers (and those who’d liketo be). Over the years, such luminar-ies as President Eisenhower, Presi-dent Truman, and the Duke ofWindsor have hit the island’s links.Rolling, hummocky fairways charac-terize the courses. Many avid golferscome to Bermuda to “collectcourses,” or play them all. Someholes, such as Port Royal’s notorious16th, are “from hell,” as golfers say:Both the tee and the hole are high oncliff edges, with the rich, blue sea adizzying 30m (100 ft.) below. See“The Best Golf Courses,” below, forour top picks.

• Boating & Sailing: Yachters aroundthe world agree: Bermuda is one ofthe world’s top boating destinations.Many people forget that Bermudaisn’t one island, but an archipelago,with all kinds of nooks and crannieswaiting to be discovered. With thefresh wind of the Atlantic blowing inyour hair, you can embark on yourown voyage of discovery, exploringGreat Sound and its islets, includingLong Island and Hawkins Island.Tiny, secluded beaches beckon you toput down anchor and relax awhile. Ifyou’re a novice, try Mangrove Bay; it’sprotected and safer than some of themore turbulent seas. See “More Funin the Water,” in chapter 6.

• Diving: If you’re happiest under thesea, Bermuda has what you’re lookingfor. That includes the wrecks ofcountless ships, underwater caves,rich reefs, and, during most of theyear, warm, gin-clear waters. Allaround the island you’ll find a kalei-doscope of coral and marine life that’sthe most varied in this part of theworld. Many scuba experts considerBermuda one of the safest and bestplaces to learn the sport. Seasoneddivers will not be disappointedeither—Bermuda has terrific divingareas for experts. Depths begin at7.5m (25 ft.) or less, but can exceed24m (80 ft.). Some wrecks are inabout 9m (30 ft.) of water, whichputs them within the range of snorkel-ers. See “The Best Dive Sites,” below,and “Scuba Diving,” in chapter 6.

• Biking: You can’t rent a car onBermuda, so you might as well hit theroad on two wheels. Most of theisland isn’t great cycling terrain,because the roads are narrow and thetraffic heavy. We suggest that youhead for the Railway Trail, the island’spremier bike path. The paved trail,which follows the former route ofBermuda’s railway line, runs almostthe entire length of the island. See“Other Outdoor Pursuits: Biking,Horseback Riding & Tennis,” inchapter 6.

• Horseback Riding: Steering a horsethrough the dune grass and oleander,especially at South Shore Park, is an

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experience you won’t want to miss.Because this sport is restricted tosupervised trails on Bermuda, it canbe all the more memorable—you’llhave the gorgeous seascapes all toyourself. Horseback-riding centers

guide you on trails through the bestof the countryside and to beautifulhidden spots along the north coast.See “Other Outdoor Pursuits: Bik-ing, Horseback Riding & Tennis,” inchapter 6.

T H E B E S T D I V E S I T E S 9

3 The Best Dive SitesThe following are some of the most excit-ing shipwreck and coral-reef dives. See“Scuba Diving,” in chapter 6, for infor-mation about dive outfitters and for moreabout the sites described below. For loca-tions, see the color map “The Best ofOutdoor Bermuda,” at the front of thisbook.

• The Constellation: This 60m (197-ft.), four-masted schooner, whichwrecked en route to Venezuela witha cargo of glassware, drugs, andwhiskey in 1943, lies in 9m (30 ft.)of water off the northwest side of theisland, about 13km (8 miles) west ofthe Royal Naval Dockyard. The truestory of this ship inspired PeterBenchley to write The Deep.

• The Cristóbal Colón: The largestknown shipwreck in Bermuda’swaters is this 144m (472-ft.) Spanishluxury liner; it ran aground in 1936on a northern reef between NorthRock and North Breaker. It lies in 9to 17m (30–56 ft.) of water.

• The Hermes: This 50m (165-ft.)steamer ship rests in some 24m (80ft.) of water about 1.6km (1 mile) offWarwick Long Bay on the southshore. It foundered in 1985. TheHermes, the Rita Zovetta, and theTauton (see below) are Bermudafavorites because of the incrediblemulticolored variety of fish that pop-ulate the waters around the ships.You’ll have a chance to see grouper,brittle starfish, spiny lobster, crabs,banded coral shrimp, queen angels,tube sponge, and more.

• L’Herminie: A first-class, 60-gunFrench frigate, L’Herminie was 17days out of its Cuban port, en routeto France, when it sank in 1838. Theship lies in 6 to 9m (20–30 ft.) ofwater off the west side of the island,with 25 cannons still visible.

• The Marie Celeste: This paddle-wheeler sank in 1864. Its 4.5m-diam-eter (15-ft.) paddle wheel, off thesouthern portion of the island, isovergrown with coral standing about17m (55 ft.) off the ocean floor.

• The North Carolina: One ofBermuda’s most colorful and well-preserved wrecks, this English sailingbarkentine foundered in 1879 andnow lies in about 12m (40 ft.) ofwater off the western portion of theisland. The bow, stern, masts, andrigging are all preserved, and all sortsof vibrant marine life call the wreckhome.

• The Rita Zovetta: A 180m (360-ft.) Italian cargo ship, lying in 6 to21m (20–70 ft.) of water off thesouth side of the island, the RitaZovetta ran aground off St. David’sIsland in 1924. It’s a favorite withunderwater photographers becauseof the kaleidoscope of fish thatinhabit the area.

• South West Breaker: This coral-reefdive off the south shore, about 2.5km(11⁄2 miles) off Church Bay, has hardand soft coral decorating sheer wallsat depths of 6 to 9m (20–30 ft.).

• Tarpon Hole: Near Elbow Beach, offthe south shore, this dive’s proximity

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to the Elbow Beach Hotel makes itextremely popular. The honey-combed reef—one of the most beau-tiful off the coast of Bermuda—isknown for its varieties of coral: yellowpencil, elkhorn, fire, and star.

• The Tauton: This popular dive site isa British Royal Mail steamer thatsank in 1914. It lies in 4 to 12m(10–40 ft.) of water off the north endof the island and is home to numer-ous varieties of colorful marine life.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F B E R M U D A10

4 The Best Golf CoursesAll four of these courses are 18 holes. Forlocations, see the color map “The Best ofOutdoor Bermuda,” at the front of thisbook.

• Belmont Golf & Country Club(Warwick Parish): Scotsman EmmettDevereux designed this par-70,5,282m (5,757-yd.) course in 1923.It has been challenging golfers eversince, especially on its par-5 11thhole, a severe dogleg left with a blindtee shot. Trade winds play havoc withthe listed lengths. Critics complainthat the layout is “maddening,” yetthey continue to return for new chal-lenges. The grass is dense thanks to amodern irrigation system. See p. 155.

• Fairmont Southampton Golf Club(Hamilton Parish): This is a par-54,2,454m (8,049-ft.) course, with ele-vated tees, strategically placedbunkers, and an array of water haz-ards to challenge even the most expe-rienced golfer. One golfer said of thiscourse, “You not only need to be agreat player, but have a certain moun-taineering agility as well.” See p. 155.

• Port Royal Golf Course (Southamp-ton Parish): This public course ranks

among the best on the island, publicor private; in fact, it’s one of thegreatest public courses in the world.Jack Nicklaus apparently agrees—he’sfond of playing here. Robert TrentJones designed the par-71, 6,003m(19,690-ft.) course along the ocean.The 16th hole is the most famous inBermuda; photos of it have appearedin countless golf magazines. The holeis situated on a dramatic oceansidecliff with stunning views—onewrong hit from the club and your ballwill go flying into the ocean below.Greens fees are relatively reasonable.See p. 158.

• St. George’s Golf Club (St. GeorgeParish): One of the island’s newestcourses—and one of its best—thispar-62, 3,697m (12,126-ft.) coursewas designed by Robert Trent Jones.Within walking distance of the his-toric town of St. George, it lies on awindy headland at the northeasterntip of Bermuda. Although you’llenjoy panoramic vistas, your game islikely to be affected by Atlanticwinds. The greens are the smallest onthe island, at no larger than 7.2m (24ft.) across. See p. 158.

5 The Best Tennis FacilitiesFor locations, see the color map “TheBest of Outdoor Bermuda,” at the frontof this book.

• The Fairmont Southampton (South-ampton Parish): This is Bermuda’spremier destination for avid players.Its tennis court complex is not only

the largest on the island, but also ismaintained in state-of-the-art condi-tion. The deluxe hotel, one of thefinest on Bermuda, offers 11 Plexipave(professional color surface) courts.The courts are somewhat protectedfrom the north winds, but swirling

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breezes may affect your final score.See p. 160.

• Government Tennis Stadium (Pem-broke Parish): Although Bermuda hasbeen known as the tennis capital ofthe Atlantic since 1873, players oftencomplain that the trade windsaround the island affect their game,especially near the water. That’s whymany prefer inland courts, such as

those at this government-owned sta-dium. It offers three clay and fiveshock-absorbing Plexicushion courts(three illuminated for night play).The facility, which is north of theCity of Hamilton, requires players towear proper tennis attire. On-site,you’ll find a pro shop, a ball machine,and a pro offering private lessons. Seep. 160.

T H E B E S T S A I L I N G O U T F I T T E R S 11

6 The Best Day Hikes• The Bermuda Railway Trail (Sandys

Parish): Stretching for about 34km(21 miles), this unique trail was cre-ated along the course of the oldBermuda Railway. The railway servedthe island from 1931 to 1948 (auto-mobiles weren’t allowed on the islanduntil the late 1940s). Armed with acopy of the Bermuda Railway TrailGuide, available at visitor centers, youcan follow the route of the trainknown as “Rattle and Shake.” Mostof the trail still winds along a car-freeroute, and you can travel as much (oras little) of it as your stamina allows.See p. 159 and 195.

• From the Royal Naval Dockyard toSomerset (Sandys Parish): A 6.4km(4-mile) walk leads from the dock-yard, the former headquarters of theBritish navy on Bermuda, to Somer-set Island. Along the way you’ll cross

a beautiful nature reserve; explore anold cemetery; view the Royal NavalHospital, where thousands of yellowfever victims died in the 19th cen-tury; and be rewarded with a sweep-ing panoramic view of Great Sound.Sandy beaches along the route areperfect for pausing from your hike tostretch out on the sand or take a dipin the ocean. See “Walking Tour 3:Sandys Parish,” in chapter 8.

• Spittal Pond Nature Reserve(Smith’s Parish): This 24-hectare (60-acre) sanctuary is the island’s largestnature reserve, home to both residentand migratory waterfowl. You canspot some 25 species of waterfowlfrom November to May. Scenic trailsand footpaths cut through the prop-erty. Explore on your own or take aguided hike offered by the Depart-ment of Agriculture. See p. 160.

7 The Best Sailing OutfittersBermuda is one of the Atlantic’s majorsailing capitals. Many sail-yourself boatsare available for rent to qualified sailors,and kayaks, paddleboats, boards, andmore are available for everyone. If you’dlike to sail on a larger craft, the outfitterswill provide you with a captain. Here aresome of the best outfitters. For loca-tions, see the color map “The Best ofOutdoor Bermuda,” at the front of thisbook.

• Blue Hole Water Sports (Grotto Bay Beach Hotel, Hamilton Parish;& 441/293-2915; www.blueholewater.bm): Here you’ll find a largeselection of watercraft, includingSunfish, sailboards, kayaks, PaddleCats, and Sun Cats. Rentals are avail-able for up to 8 hours. See p. 153.

• Pompano Beach Club WatersportsCentre (Southampton Parish; & 441/234-0222): This is the best outfitter

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in this tourist-laden parish. Open fromMay to late October, it offers a varietyof equipment, including the O’BrienWindsurfer, a popular sailboard suit-able for one person at the intermediateor advanced level. Its fleet also includesvessels that hold one or two people:Dolphin paddleboats, Buddy Boards,Aqua-Eye viewing boards, Aqua Finnsailboats, and kayaks. These can berented for up to 4 hours. See p. 153.

• Somerset Bridge Watersports (Som-erset Parish; & 441/234-0914): Thisis the best place to rent a Bostonwhaler, a small boat that can holdthree or four passengers. It’s an idealcraft for exploring the archipelago’suninhabited islands. This outfitterrents 4m (13-ft.) whalers and a 30-hp,5m (15-ft.) Open Bowrider, a speed-craft often used to pull water-skiers,which accommodates four. See p. 154.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F B E R M U D A12

The Baffling Bermuda Triangle

The area known as the Bermuda Triangle encompasses 2,414,016 sq. km(941,466 sq. miles) of open sea between Bermuda, Puerto Rico, and thesoutheastern shoreline of the U.S. This bit of the Atlantic is the source of themost famous, and certainly the most baffling, legend associated withBermuda.

Tales of the mysterious Bermuda Triangle persist, despite attempts byskeptics to dismiss them as fanciful. Below are three of the most popular.Can they be true? See what you think:

• In 1881, a British-registered ship, the Ellen Austin, encountered anunnamed vessel in good condition sailing aimlessly without a crew. Thecaptain ordered a handful of his best seamen to board the mysteriousvessel and sail it to Newfoundland. A few days later, the ships encoun-tered each other again on the high seas. But to everyone’s alarm, thecrewmen who had transferred from the Ellen Austin were nowhere to befound—the ship was completely unmanned!

• Another tale concerns the disappearance of a merchant ship, the MarineSulphur Queen, in February 1963. It vanished suddenly without warning,and no one could say why. The weather was calm when the ship set sailfrom Bermuda, and everything onboard was fine—the crew never sent adistress signal. In looking for explanations, some have theorized that theship’s weakened hull gave way, causing the vessel to descend quickly tothe ocean floor. Others attribute the loss to more mysterious forces.

• The most famous of all the legends concerns an incident in 1945. OnDecember 5, five U.S. Navy bombers departed from Fort Lauderdale,

8 The Best ViewBermuda is incredibly scenic, with lovelypanoramas and vistas unfolding at nearlyevery turn. But not all views are createdequal. Below are some of our personal

favorites. See chapter 7, “Seeing theSights,” for additional suggestions.

• Scaur Hill Fort Park: From SomersetBridge in Sandys Parish, head for thisfort atop the parish’s highest hill.

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Walk the fort’s ramparts, enjoying thevistas across Great Sound to SpanishPoint. You can also gaze north to thedockyard and take in the fine views ofSomerset Island. On a clear day, alook through the telescope reveals St.David’s Lighthouse, 23km (14 miles)away on the northeastern tip of theisland. After enjoying the fantasticviews from the fort, you can strollthrough the fort’s 9 hectares (22 acres)of beautiful gardens. See p. 170.

• Gibbs Hill Lighthouse: For an evenbetter view than the one enjoyed byQueen Elizabeth II when she visitedthe lighthouse in 1953, climb the 185spiral steps of the lighthouse. Built in1846, it’s the oldest cast-iron light-

house in the world. From the top, youcan relish what islanders consider thesingle finest view in all of Bermuda—a panorama of the island and its shore-lines. You can, that is, if the winddoesn’t blow you away—be sure tohang on to the railing. In heavy winds,the tower actually sways. See p. 174.

• Warwick Long Bay: This stretch ofpristine pink sand is a dream beach ofthe picture-postcard variety. It backsup to towering cliffs and hills studdedwith Spanish bayonet and oleander. A6m-high (20-ft.) coral outcrop, risingsome 60m (200 ft.) offshore andresembling a sculpted boulder, addsvariety to the stunning beachscape.See p. 143.

T H E B E S T V I E W 13

Florida, on a routine mission. The weather was fine; no storm of any kindthreatened. A short time into the flight, the leader of the squadronradioed that they were lost, and then the radio went silent. All efforts toestablish further communication proved fruitless. A rescue plane was dis-patched to search for the squadron—but it, too, disappeared. The navyordered a search that lasted 5 days, but there was no evidence of anywreckage. To this day, the disappearance of the squadron and the rescueplane remains a mystery as deep as the waters of the region.

How do those who believe in the Bermuda Triangle legend account forthese phenomena? Some contend that the area is a time warp to anotheruniverse; others think the waters off Bermuda are the site of the lost king-dom of Atlantis, whose power sources still function deep beneath the sur-face. Still others believe that laser rays from outer space are perpetuallyfocused on the region, or that underwater signaling devices are guidinginvaders from other planets, and that these aliens have chosen the site forthe systematic collection of human beings for scientific observation andexperimentation. (Smacks of The X-Files, doesn’t it?) Some, drawing uponthe Bible’s Book of Revelation, are fully persuaded that the Bermuda Trian-gle is really one of the gates to Hell (in this version, the other gate lies mid-way between Japan and the Philippines, in the Devil’s Sea).

No matter what your views on these mysteries, you’re bound to provokean excited response by asking residents what they think about it. OnBermuda, almost everyone has an opinion about the island’s biggest andmost fascinating legend.

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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F B E R M U D A14

9 The Best Historic SightsSee “The Best Places to Experience OldBermuda,” below, for a description of theRoyal Naval Dockyard.

• Fort St. Catherine (St. GeorgeParish): This fort—with its tunnels,cannons, and ramparts—towers overthe beach where the shipwreckedcrew of the Sea Venture first cameashore in 1609 (becoming Bermuda’sfirst settlers). The fort was completedin 1614, and extensive rebuilding andremodeling continued until the 19thcentury. The audiovisual presentationon St. George’s defense system helpsyou better understand what you’reseeing. See p. 187.

• Scaur Hill Fort Park (SandysParish): Fort Scaur and Fort St.Catherine were part of a ring of forti-fications that surrounded Bermuda.Built by the British navy, the fort wassupposed to protect the Royal NavalDockyard from an attack that nevermaterialized. During World War II,U.S. Marines were billeted nearby.Overlooking Great Sound, the fort

offers views of some of the island’smost dramatic scenery. See p. 170.

• St. Peter’s Church (St. GeorgeParish): This is the oldest Anglicanhouse of worship in the WesternHemisphere. At one time virtuallyeveryone who died on Bermuda wasburied here, from governors to crimi-nals. To the west of the church liesthe graveyard of slaves. The presentchurch sits on the site of the original,which colonists built in 1612. A hur-ricane destroyed the first structure in1712, but some parts of the interiorsurvived. It was rebuilt on the samesite in 1713. See p. 186.

• Verdmont (Smith’s Parish): This1770s mansion is on property onceowned by William Sayle, founder andfirst governor of South Carolina.Filled with portraits, antiques, andchina, the house offers a rare glimpseinto a long-faded life of old-fashionedstyle and grace. Resembling a smallEnglish manor house, it’s the finesthistoric home in Bermuda. See p. 180.

10 The Best Places to Experience Old BermudaAlthough much of Bermuda is modern,the first settlers arrived in 1609. The fol-lowing places provide insights into theold, largely vanished Bermudian way oflife. See chapter 7, “Seeing the Sights,”for more details.

• The Back Streets of St. George (St.George Parish): Almost every visitor tothe island has photographed the 17th-century stocks on King’s Square in his-toric St. George. But it’s in the narrowback alleys and cobblestone lanes,such as Shinbone Alley, that you’llreally discover the town’s old spirit.Arm yourself with a good map andwander at leisure through such placesas Silk Alley (also called PetticoatLane), Barber’s Lane Alley (named for

a former slave from South Carolina),Printer’s Alley (where Bermuda’s firstnewspaper was published), and Nea’sAlley (former stomping ground of theIrish poet Tom Moore). Finally, walkthrough Somers Garden and head upthe steps to Blockade Alley. On the hillis the aptly named Unfinished Cathe-dral. See “Walking Tour 2: Historic St.George Town,” in chapter 8.

• The Royal Naval Dockyard (SandysParish): Nothing recaptures the mar-itime spirit of this little island colonymore than this sprawling complex ofattractions (with a multimillion-dollarcruise-ship dock) on Ireland Island.Britain began building this dockyardin 1809, perhaps fearing attacks on

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its fleet by Napoleon or greedypirates. Convicts and slaves providedmuch of the construction labor, andthe Royal Navy occupied the ship-yard for almost 150 years. It closed in1951, and the navy has little presencehere today. The Maritime Museum—the most important museum on theisland—and other exhibits on Ber-muda’s nautical heritage give you agood feel for a largely vanished era.See p. 171.

• St. David’s Island (St. GeorgeParish): Though most of Bermudalooks pristine and proper, you’ll stillfind some vestiges of rustic maritimelife on St. David’s. Some St. David’sIslanders never even bother to visitneighboring St. George, and to somelocals, a trip to the West End ofBermuda would be like a trip to themoon. St. David’s Lighthouse hasbeen a local landmark since 1879. Tosee how people used to cook and eat,drop by Black Horse Tavern (p. 185).

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11 Bermuda’s Best-Kept Secrets• St. David’s Island (St. George Parish):

Part of St. George Parish, this remotelittle island is often missed by manyvisitors, but it represents Bermuda atits most authentic (see listing above).

• Escaping to a Remote Natural Set-ting (Sandys Parish; & 441/234-1831): Bermuda still has some oasesthat aren’t overrun with visitors. Sucha place is the Heydon Trust, alongSomerset Road, a sanctuary for migra-tory birds. It’s a true walk throughnature, with flowering bushes and cit-rus orchards. See p. 180.

• Spelunking in Crystal Caves(Hamilton Parish; & 441/293-0640):A spelunker’s paradise, Bermuda hasthe highest concentration of lime-stone caves in the world. They formone of the island’s major natural won-derlands. Their surreal formationstook millions of years to come intobeing, and the great stalactites andstalagmites have a Gothic grandeur.The best caves are Crystal Caves atBailey’s Bay. Discovered in 1907,these caves house crystal-clear CahowLake. See p. 181.

12 The Best Resorts for Lovers & HoneymoonersBermuda has long been a favorite desti-nation of newlyweds. Its hotels, fromdeluxe resorts to guesthouses, attractlovers of all kinds looking for a littlepeace, solitude, and seclusion.

Although some couples seek out smallhousekeeping cottages and guesthouses,most prefer a package offered by one ofthe splashy resort hotels. The followingresorts not only feature romance, but alsosome of the best deals around.

Note: It’s a good idea to consult a travelagent for help in getting the best bargain.Before you call any of these hotelsdirectly, see “Booking a Travel Package,”in chapter 2. For full hotel reviews, see

chapter 4, “Where to Stay.” For locations,see the color map “The Best of OutdoorBermuda,” at the front of this book.

• Elbow Beach Hotel (Paget Parish; & 441/236-3535; www.mandarinoriental.com/bermuda): This hotelpromises “marriages made in heaven.”Its Romance Packages include a dailybreakfast, plus a candlelit dinner fortwo in your room on the first night.Upon departure, newlyweds receive acopy of the Elbow Beach Cookbook.See p. 80.

• The Fairmont Southampton(Southampton Parish; & 800/441-1414 in the U.S., 800/268-7176 in

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Canada; or 441/238-8000; www.fairmont.com/southampton): Theisland’s most luxurious hotel doeseverything it can to attract honey-mooners seeking lots of activities,from watersports to nighttime diver-sions (other than those in the honey-moon suite). Its honeymoon packages,which start at 4 days and 3 nights,include breakfast and dinner on aMAP (modified American plan)“dine-around plan” (dinner andbreakfast are included in the hotelrate, but you can dine in any of thetwo Princess resorts’ restaurants), abottle of champagne, a basket offruit, admission to the exercise club,and even a special-occasion cake, plusa souvenir photo and a watercolorprint by a local artist. See p. 76.

• Grotto Bay Beach Resort (Hamil-ton Parish; & 800/582-3190 in theU.S., 800/463-0851 in Canada, or441/293-0188; www.netlinkbermuda.com/grottobay): This resort, whichactively caters to honeymooners, fea-tures everything from midnight swimsat a private beach to cozy lovers’ nestswith private balconies overlooking theocean. The honeymoon packagesinclude romantic dinners and arrange-

ments for cruises and walking tours, aswell as optional champagne, fruit, andflowers. See p. 83.

• Harmony Club (Paget Parish; & 888/427-6664 or 441/236-3500;www.harmonyclub.com): If you shunthe big splashy resorts that attract alot of families with children, head tothis small, couples-only all-inclusiveresort. Guests are housed in romanticQueen Anne–style buildings in a set-ting of formal gardens and gazebos.Dinners are served by candlelight onfine china and crystal. Honeymoonpackages are available. See p. 86.

• Wyndham Bermuda Resort & Spa(Southampton Parish; & 877/999-3223 in the U.S. or Canada, or441/238-8122; www.wyndham.com):You’ll find champagne chilling in yourroom when you arrive—and it justgets better from there. To set themood, the staff will arrange an intro-ductory horse-and-buggy ride in theold Bermuda tradition. The followingday, they’ll lend you a motor scooterfor getting around. The sports directoroffers one free tennis or scuba lesson.The hotel is right on the beach, andalso boasts a fully equipped, profes-sionally staffed health spa. See p. 77.

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13 The Best Places to Stay with the KidsBermuda is more kid-friendly than anyother place we know in the Caribbean orThe Bahamas. It’s a safe, clean environ-ment in a politically stable country. Nearlyall Bermuda hotels go the extra mile towelcome families with children, but theseare our top choices. Turn to chapter 4,“Where to Stay,” for full reviews. For loca-tions, see the color map “The Best of Out-door Bermuda,” at the front of this book.

• The Fairmont Southampton(Southampton Parish; & 800/441-1414 in the U.S., 800/268-7176 inCanada, or 441/238-8000; www.fairmont.com/southampton): From

June through Labor Day, this hotelfeatures the best children’s program inBermuda. Children under 17 stayfree; and if the parents choose theMAP (breakfast and dinner includedin the rates), kids also get free meals.With its many sports facilities, includ-ing two freshwater pools and 11 ten-nis courts, this Princess is definitelyfor families who enjoy the sportinglife. The former Touch Club has beenredesigned as Lenny’s Loft, a socialcenter for children’s activities. FromLenny’s Loft, kids are taken on excur-sions around the island. See p. 76.

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• Grotto Bay Beach Resort (Hamil-ton Parish; & 800/582-3190 in theU.S., 800/463-0851 in Canada, or441/293-0188; www.netlinkbermuda.com/grottobay): With its excellentsummer children’s program, thishotel attracts many families. It sits on8.5 tropically landscaped hectares (21acres), so guests usually don’t mind itsrelative isolation across from the air-port. The swimming pool has beenblasted out of natural rock, and thereare subterranean caves to explore.Beachside barbecues and other activi-ties make this a lively place. See p. 83.

• Elbow Beach Hotel (HamiltonParish; & 441/236-3535; www.mandarinoriental.com/bermuda):This longtime family favorite, on oneof the best beaches in Bermuda, allowschildren under 13 to stay free whensharing a room with their parents. Italso offers a year-round “Family ValuePackage,” which grants very low ratesfor four people (usually two childrenand two parents) and includes buffetbreakfast, 4 hours of babysitting, 1hour paddleboat rental, 2 hours oftennis, and free passes to the zoo andaquarium. Call the hotel or ask a travelagent for details. See p. 80.

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14 The Best Hotel BargainsFor locations, see the color map “TheBest of Outdoor Bermuda,” at the frontof this book.

• Granaway (Warwick Parish; & 441/236-3747; www.granaway.com): Thisformer private home from 1734 is avirtual picture postcard cliché ofBermudian charm, with its pink wallsand whitewashed roof. Opening ontoviews of Great Sound, it has beenhandsomely converted to receiveguests—even the former slave quartersare now comfortable. See p. 103.

• Astwood Cove (Warwick Parish; & 800/637-4116 in the U.S., or441/236-0984; www.astwoodcove.com): This place is definitely a goodbuy in pricey Bermuda. For familiesseeking a self-contained studio orsuite apartment with a fully equippedkitchenette and a private porch orpatio, this is a great choice. You pre-pare your own meals and use thehotel’s English bone china and wine

glasses. Studio apartments have sofabeds that can accommodate a thirdperson. See p. 96.

• Salt Kettle House (Paget Parish; & 441/236-0407). The name is notthe only thing charming about thisinformal and secluded 2-centuries-oldcottage. It’s a real discovery, and bar-gain hunters eagerly seek it out, prefer-ring it to the glitz of the megaresorthotels. You can swim in the nearbycove, retiring to your waterside cottageat night. See p. 102.

• Rosemont (City of Hamilton, Pem-broke Parish; & 800/367-0040 inthe U.S., 800/267-0040 in Canada,or 441/292-1055): A collection ofhousekeeping cottages near the Hamil-ton Princess, Rosemont has long beena family favorite, offering a centrallocation at a good price. The site offerspanoramic views of Hamilton Harbourand the Great Sound. Guests often pre-pare their own meals. See p. 98.

15 The Best RestaurantsAdmittedly, you don’t come to Bermudafor grand cuisine. That said, there are quitea few places to enjoy a memorable meal.

• Aqua (Devonshire Parish; & 441/236-2332): In the Ariel Sands Hotel,this restaurant, owned in part by

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actor Michael Douglas, has quicklybecome one of the island’s best, withits savory blend of Bermudian andinternational recipes. Expect every-thing from Cajun cookery to Indian-style tandoori dishes. See p. 135.

• Ascots (City of Hamilton; PembrokeParish; & 441/295-9644): In theRoyal Palms Hotel, this restaurantspecializes in a continental menu thatis mostly inspired by France and Italy,and does it exceedingly well. Classictechniques and first-rate ingredientsare combined to make this one of themost enduring restaurants on theisland. See p. 122.

• Black Horse Tavern (St. GeorgeParish; & 441/297-1991): Whenyou crave good, hearty food served ina casual atmosphere, this is the placeto come. Islanders fill most of thetables at night, ordering shark hash orcurried conch. See p. 138.

• Lobster Pot & Boat House Bar(City of Hamilton, Pembroke Parish;& 441/292-6898): If you don’t findthe local foodies at the restaurants wediscuss above, they’ll surely be at thislocal favorite, enjoying some of theisland’s best regional dishes. Blackrum and sherry peppers are the secretingredients in the fish chowder, andbaked fish and lobster are sure totempt you. See p. 127.

• Mediterraneo (City of Hamilton,Pembroke Parish; & 441/296-9047): The hottest new restaurant inBermuda, as its name suggests, is theplace to go to experience the savorycuisine of the Mediterranean, includ-ing an array of fresh fish and shellfishalong with succulent pastas and pip-ing-hot pizzas. The chefs also roamother parts of the world for culinaryinspiration. See p 124.

• Newport Room (SouthamptonParish; & 441/238-8000): Part of

the Fairmont Southampton Princess,this nautically decorated restaurantattracts an upscale crowd, especiallyyachters. The glistening teak decormakes it the most expensively fur-nished restaurant in Bermuda, andthe French cuisine is worthy of thedecor. The rack of lamb with mixed-nut crust is the stuff of which memo-ries are made. See p. 114.

• Tamarisk Dining Room (SandysParish; & 441/234-0331): This is anelegant enclave at the western tip ofBermuda. Housed in one of theisland’s premier accommodations,Cambridge Beaches, it offers excel-lent service and a frequently changingmenu of impeccably prepared inter-national cuisine. For your maincourse, you can’t do better than juicytenderloin of beef with grain mustardand blanched garlic sauce. The winecellar is up to the high standards ofthe menu. See p. 110.

• Tom Moore’s Tavern (HamiltonParish; & 441/293-8020): The Irishpoet Tom Moore reportedly was a fre-quent visitor to this restaurant, whichdates from 1652 and overlooks Wals-ingham Bay. The menu, however, isno relic—it’s quite innovative. Duckis a specialty, as is Bermuda lobster;but who can forget the quail in puffpastry stuffed with foie gras? See p. 136.

• Waterlot Inn (Southampton Parish;& 441/238-8000): In a historic innand warehouse that’s part of the Fair-mont Southampton Princess, thisrestaurant, serves the island’s mostfamous Sunday brunch, but it’s alsoan ideal choice for dinner. Everybodyfrom Eleanor Roosevelt to MarkTwain has praised the Mediterraneancuisine. See p. 115.

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