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LUANG PRABANG. The very name evokes a remote, sleepy, lost-in-time destination, mired in all the mystery and mysticism the exotic East can conjure. A little out of the way, and certainly out of the ordinary, there is something decidedly romantic about

the former imperial capital of Laos, nestled on a finger of land defined by the Mekong River on one side and its sluggish tributary, the Nam Khan, on the other. While the country is considerably more “open for business” than it was even 10 years ago, Luang Prabang has escaped, so far, the worst excesses of mass tourism. A strict UNESCO preservation order ensures any development in the town is minimal and sympathetic to its charming, low-rise, jungle-obscured layout. Many tack Luang Prabang onto a general sweep through South-East Asia, where so many other alluring destinations vie for a traveller’s attention. But the town is more than worthy of a stand-alone trip – unbelievably pretty and even more unbelievably tranquil. Kicking about its dusty, tree-lined streets, drinking Beerlaos at riverside restaurants and tumbling into bed at night in boutique-hotel comfort is a tonic for body, soul and mind. The cooler, drier months of October through March are favoured by the majority of tourists and at this time the town does get packed. It is better by far to brave an occasional wet-season downpour and visit in April, May or June, when not only are the streets quieter, but the jungle is a dazzling green.

Sunset over the Mekong from Luang Prabang; shady character; tropical flora; net gains (clockwise from top left)

LUANG PRABANG LAOS

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EATTAMARIND Ban Wat Nong. (20) 777 0484. www.tamarindlaos.comThis pleasantly casual eatery should not be missed. Owned by Aussie expat Caroline Gaylard and her Lao partner Joy Ngeuamboupha, Tamarind serves authentic Luang Prabang food (much of the food in town is a watered-down-for-tourists version of the local fare). The owners are happy to spend time talking diners through the menu. They also offer tours of the sprawling Phousy market.

THE 3 NAGAS RESTAURANTSakkarine Road.(71) 253 749.Owner Yannick Upravan has several restaurants around town and in this one he devotes his menu entirely to Luang Prabang cuisine, serving it in more upscale surrounds. From the stuffed lemongrass, sticky rice salad, Luang Prabang sausage and ubiquitous buffalo laab (a Lao meat salad), it’s all fresh and fabulous.

DRAGON GIRL Ban Pakham.(20) 567 3788.One of the many open-air places on the banks of the Mekong, this one specialises in sindad, a soup/grilled meat/do-it-yourself barbecue. It is staffed mostly by “lady boys” (transvestites) and has a laid-

back ambience that is quite relaxing. Creating your own dinner is immense fun and the waiters will patiently show you how your mid-table cooking contraption works.

VILLA SANTISakkarine Road. (71) 252 157. www.villasantihotel.comA local institution, this boutique hotel is popular with well-heeled Western tourists thanks to the historic building it occupies – when Laos was a monarchy (1954-75) it was a royal mansion – and the fact it is co-owned by a former Lao princess. The restaurant is on the pricey side, but the Luang Prabang specialties are several notches above much else in town that masquerades as “authentic”. And the balcony is ideal for relaxing.

PARK HOUAY MIXAYSothikhoummane Road.(71) 212 260.Having a former cook to the royal family on staff is the eatery’s claim to fame. Although attracting loads of tourists, it is still an excellent place to come to grips with the local cuisine. The menu is extensive; standouts include mok pa fork (a mousse of Mekong fish and coconut milk, cooked in banana leaves) and olam, a fragrant soupy stew of beef or chicken that is practically the national dish.

Bounty from the local markets

Villa Santi

Mekong riverboats (above); stuffed lemongrass, The 3 Nagas Restaurant

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SHOPCARUSO LAO60 Sakkarine Road, Ban Wat Sene. (71) 254 574. www.carusolao.comA stylish homewares emporium owned by Canadian Sandrina Yuck. Come here for exquisite silk pieces (bedspreads, wall hangings, napery and the like) in subtle, calming shades, plus beautifully designed and crafted silverware, and hand-carved vases, bowls and decorative reliefs made from ebony wood.

KŌPNOÏExport Promotion Center,Ban Aphay. (71) 260 248. www.kopnoi.comThey sell a little of everything here – jewellery, clothing, scented candles and soaps, textiles, accessories and an impressive selection of otherwise hard to find books about Laos and Luang Prabang. Aside from the books, the rest of the stock is locally sourced. Everything is excellent quality.

THONG LAHA SINH165 Pakharm Village,Sisawhangvong Road.(71) 254 767. www.lahasinh.comThe huge range of textiles at Thong Laha Sinh are all made by an ethnic group in central Laos from handspun, handwoven, naturally dyed cotton. There’s a distinctive quality to the bedding, napery, throws, rugs and clothes, and the earthy cotton makes a refreshing change from all the intricate local silk work.

MULBERRIESChao Fa Ngum Road.(71) 254 594. www.mulberries.orgPrices here are reasonable –

you can buy naturally dyed silk scarves handwoven by trainees for $17 – but the quality is high and the colours are restrained compared to many of the more traditional textiles. Like other good outlets in town, Mulberries subscribes to Fair Trade principles, so you know the money you spend will go back to the communities that supply the goods.

PAVILLON DE JADEBan That Luang.(71) 260 157. A kilometre or so out of town, Pavillon de Jade has a small selection of silver jewellery and fabulous little silver boxes. Upstairs you’ll find antique items of exquisite quality that the owner sources himself from around South-East Asia. Pavillon de Jade also sells a range of handwoven, naturally dyed scarves.

THITPHENG MANIPHONEWattha Village(71) 212 327.This workshop stands out from the other silversmiths clustered around the same area, as the owner was once a supplier to the royal family and produces excellent work. Highlights include the simple 100 per cent silver bangles, which at $25 are something of a steal.

BAAN KHILY GALLERY43/2 Baan Khily.(71) 212 261.Handmade mulberry paper is a distinctive Luang Prabang product. You can buy textural, hand-stencilled paper sheets as well as albums, books and lanterns. The best place to buy mulberry paper is at Baan Khily Gallery, which also stocks works from students at the nearby Fine Arts school.

LUANG PRABANG LAOS

You know the money you spend will go back to the communities that supply the goods

Mulberries

Thong Laha Sinh

Thitpheng Maniphone

Ebony wood Buddha heads, Caruso Lao

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SEE & DOOCKPOPTOK WEAVING CENTREMain Shop: 73-5 Ban Vat Nong. (71) 253 219. www.ockpoptok.comWeaving is a hallmark of Laotian culture and the best way to experience it is to visit the riverside weaving centre of textile shop OckPopTok. Owners Joanna Smith and Veomanee Duangdala are experts on everything to do with weaving, from the sourcing and hand-spinning of silk to the various intricate weaving styles and all the sources of the natural dyes. You can even

do a hands-on course and learn to weave like a local.

MORNING MARKETFor an unforgettable primer in local eating habits, a saunter around this busy market, which takes place every morning in streets near the Royal Palace Museum, is a must. Unlike the night markets that sell cheap crafts to the tourists, this one is dedicated to food and is pitched at the locals. Expect to see piles of lush greens foraged from the jungle, displays of tropical fruits, grilled fish and other cooked foods, and local sweets.

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Grilled fish, morning market

Shopper at Phousy market

Morning market

OckPopTok Weaving Centre

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TEMPLESLuang Prabang is famous for its historic Buddhist temples. There are about 30 of them scattered around town and each, with its resident monk and novice monk populations, is a hive of activity. The novices are village boys who secure places in the temples mainly to get an education, of which English is an important component. Many love to practise it on visitors, and spending an afternoon lazing around a temple courtyard chatting

to the novices is richly rewarding. Architecturally, the temples are impressive: each has its own character and highlights. Some of the most noteworthy are Wat Xieng Mouane, Wat Saen, Wat Mai and the 16th-century Wat Xieng Thong or Golden City Temple, considered a definitive example of the Luang Prabang style and one of the most important temples in the country as it has been in continuous use since its founding.

TAK BATTo many travellers, the tak bat, or early morning (5.30am-6am) monks’ alms rounds, is the quintessential Luang Prabang experience. Draped in their vivid orange robes, the monks walk quietly in single file past kneeling townsfolk who deposit sticky rice into their

offerings bowls. There are a number of well-worn tak bat routes and, after a day or two in Luang Prabang, you’ll have a favourite vantage point.

MEKONG RIVER Hire a boat from the riverside boat office (just opposite the Royal Palace Museum, Souvannabanlang Road) and go on a custom-made putter down the Mekong: an hour or so of this at sunset is especially tranquil. You can charter a boat to take you to the Pak Ou caves, full of Buddha statues and located about 25km north of town; or to the Kouang Si waterfall, about 35km to the west. The villages and temples directly over the river from Luang Prabang; are only about five minutes away by boat.

LUANG PRABANG LAOS

The novices are village boys who secure places in the temples mainly to get an education

Monk receives alms at tak bat

Quiet flows the Mekong

Wat Xieng Mouane

Baskets for sticky rice

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STAYTHE APSARABaan Wat Sene, Thanon Kingkitsarath.(71) 254 670. www.theapsara.comQuietly stylish and extremely comfortable, The Apsara is the favourite of many visitors and, as it is small, a room can be hard to secure in the high season – so book well ahead. Its restaurant has one of the nicest dining rooms in town, where good-quality food is served. From $64.

THE 3 NAGASSakkarine Road.(71) 253 888. www.3nagas.com

The 3 Nagas is another upscale boutique property that, like The Apsara, is right in the middle of town and similarly popular. It occupies three historic villas that date from about 1900 and each of its airy guestrooms has its own unique character. From $102.

MAISON SOUVANNAPHOUMChao Fa Ngum,Banthatluang.(71) 254 609. www.coloursofangsana.comFor more of a plush, resort-style experience, it is hard to go past Maison Souvannaphoum on the

town’s fringe. It’s got all the five-star bells and whistles, including an inviting pool, superb restaurant and the best spa in town. From $172.

KHUN & CON GUESTHOUSEOutskirts of Luang Prabang. (20) 770 7665.Luang Prabang is undeniably alluring but it is still worth getting out of town for a few days. At this charming place, which amounts to six generously proportioned bungalows in a rural setting, the hosts speak English, serve excellent food and will tailor-make treks and tours

into local villages. From $13 a person.

AMMATA GUESTHOUSE 37 Khunsua Road.(71) 212 175. For those on a tight budget there are plenty of affordable guesthouses to choose from, but few are as pleasant as the Ammata. The family that runs it is particularly helpful and the location, just down the road from Wat Nong, is perfect. From $38. �

For airfares call Qantas on

13 13 13 or visit qantas.com

For holiday packages to Laos call

Qantas Holidays on 13 14 15.

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The Apsara Hotel (and left)

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