The aims of this session are -...
Transcript of The aims of this session are -...
The aims of this session are:• To inspire you to enjoy your sense of smell
• To give you a taste or sniff of what the students study in the perfumery unit
By the end of the session you will be able to:• List at least 6 odour and fragrance families
• Give 2 reasons why individuals perceive odours differently
• Create an harmonious perfume
Introduction to the World of Perfumeat the London College of Fashion
• Do you feel odour perception is connected more to the thinking logical brain or to the emotional feeling brain?
• Is odour connected to choosing a mate in any way?
• Is odour evocative of past experience?
• Do new born babies recognise their mothers by sight or smell?
• Are mothers able to recognise their babies by smell as well as sight?
• How old is the perfume industry?
• What are the roots of the word perfume
• How many kilos of rose petals does it take to make 1Kg of rose absolute?
• The 1st year under graduates on the MSc in Cosmetic Science take perfumery as part of a unit with marketing
• 2nd year students create a shampoo fragrance to use in their hair care project
LemonCitrus Medica Limonum
• Citrus fruit
• Grown in Sicily
• Cold extraction techniques
• The odour of the freshessential oil is mouth wateringly close to the original
RosemaryRosmarinus Officinalis
• Herb
• Reputed to aid memory
• In ancient Greece students would rub rosemary on their foreheads before exams to help them remember
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RosemaryRosmarinus Officinalis
• Love charm
• In the Greek orthodox tradition rosemary is said to help couples remember their wedding vows
• Rosemary wreaths are worn by bride and groom in the wedding ceremony
• Alpha and beta wave patterns in the brain are affected by rosemary
• Most people feel more alert but calm at the same time
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A study involving 40 participants looked at the EEG activity, alertness and mood after an aromatherapy session using lavender oil on one group and rosemary oil on another. The rosemary group had reduced frontal alpha and beta power suggesting increased alertness, they reported feeling more alert and more relaxed. When completing mathematical computations the rosemary group were faster but not more accurate. (Diego et al, 1998)
A study with 140 participants looked at the effects on memory of lavender oil, rosemary oil and no odour (the control group). The rosemary group showed overall improved quality of memory but with an impairment of speed compared to the control. (Moss et al, 2003)
Rosemary oil said to have a positive effect on mood, concentration and memory for 10 subjects. (Svoboda et al, 2002)
Some academic studies confirming the effects of rosemary oil
Rosemary in perfumeryRosmarinus Officinalis
• Herbal note
• Part of the classic eau de cologne
• Used frequently in fragrances for men
4711, by Muelhens, launched in 1792
Eau Dynamisante, by Clarins, launched in 1987
Photographs by Tony Burfield taken 21st century in Zanzibar
Clove budsEugenia Caryophyllus
• Spice
• Essential oil is made by water distillation
Photographs by Tony Burfield
Clove budsEugenia Caryophyllus
• Spice
• Essential oil is made by water distillation
• Contains 75-80% eugenol
• Eugenol is one of the commonly reported EU allergens
eugenol
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Distillation invented in Arabia
• The Arabs invented the alembic still
• Distillation is mentioned around 200 – 300 CE but the alembic still with a more efficient condensing system is invented around the 11th or 12th century CE
• Words beginning with al- are derived from Arabic
• “al” is the article or “the” in Arabic
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Arabic manuscript held in the British Library showing an alembic still
Distillation invented in Arabia
Translation of the text in the manuscript by LCF students:
To my son,
You should know that if your flame is
too strong the water will rise yellow to
where collected and will be ruined.
When your flame is utilized in the
proper way, you will obtain what you
need, having the will and support of
God. The distillate should be kept away
from sunlight until needed; then take the
oil from the water.
Arabic manuscript held in the British Library showing an alembic still
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Viburnum Burkwoodii
dianthus caryophyllus
Sweet Williamdianthus barbatus
Clove or buffalo currantRibes odorata
Star AniseIllicium Verum
• Star anise is used in many flavourings including liquorice
• Part of the anisic note often found in male fine fragrance
八角 Bājiǎo
Frankincense or Olibanum resin
Boswellia Carterii
• Frankincense oozes from the stems of a bush and hardens in the sun
• The bushes grow in arid regions of Yemen and Southern Arabia
• In ancient times there was an incense trade route
• Wars were fought over the control of frankincense trade
Censer 3rd century BCShabwa, YemenBritish museum collection 21
Pink PepperShinus Molle
• Relatively new perfumery material (1990s onwards)
• Extraction method uses
• liquid CO2
• under high pressure
• in costly equipment
• made of 20mm thick stainless steel
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The sense of smell
Odour Families
History of Fragrance
Fragrance Creation
Natural ingredients
Synthetic Ingredients trend setters
The Structure of the Perfume Industry
Smell signals are sent directly to the limbic brain
Smell can trigger the reliving of a complete experience including emotions and feelings
Respect
• Specific anosmia
• Thresholds
• Attraction – Finding a mateMHC – major histocompatibility complex
Woody
Balsamic
Aldehydic
Aquatic/Ozonic
Mossy
Some Important Odour Families/Notes
Floral
Fruity
Citrus
Green
Spicy
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Odour FamiliesIntroduction activity
Woody
Green
Aquatic/ozonic
Floral
Fruity
Citrus
Smell the 6 fragrance ingredients A-F and allocate each to one of the odour families below:
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Odour FamiliesIntroduction activity
A Citrus Bergamot oil Made by cold expressionA bridge in perfumery between thecitrus and floral notes
B Green cis-3-hexenol Occurs widely in nature including in fresh cut grass, bananas and strawberries
C Aquatic or fruity
Calone Some people perceive as marine others water melon
D Fruity Amyl acetate Like pear drops a type of confectionary or nail varnish remover
E Floral Rose oil It takes 2 tonnes of rose petals to make 1 Kg of rose oil
F Woody Cedarwood oil Virginian
Reminiscent of sharpening pencils
Odour perception varies from individual to individual
a) Watermelon; fresh, sweet; reminds me of a summer picnic with watermelon to eat
b) Smells like watermelons and cucumbers; fresh, watery, aquatic feel
c) Watermelon, marine
d) Watery; fresh, light; reminds me of cucumber
e) Fresh ozonic; reminds me of sea shore, shells, fish, marine life
f) Ocean, salty, fishy; matt, wet; reminds me of a smelly beach, not pleasant
Below are some entries in the Odour Recognition Journals of students class of 2014
Each entry describes the same ingredient Calone
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Odour perception varies from individual to individual
Watermelon Cucumber Marine Aquatic – fresh pleasant
Seaweed Fishy -unpleasant
What is the odour of Calone for you?Do you perceive more than one aspect?
Calone
IUPAC name 7-Methylbenzo(1,4)dioxepin-3-one
Functional group Cyclic diether and ketone
Occurrence Not found in nature
Odour Family Aquatic
Perfumery uses Fresh ozonic, marine note and water melon. Calone is evident throughout the fragrance profile
Trend setter Calone was patented in 1966 but waited until the 1990s to create a new fashion in fragrance:
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Influence of Synthetics in 20th Century Perfumery
L’Eau d’Issey, Issey Miyake, 1992
New West for him, Aramis, 1988
Acqua di GiòGiorgio Armani1996
Perfume Creation
A perfume is a harmonious bend of aromatic ingredients
Fragrance is to smell, as music is to noise
A typical fragrance contains between 20 and 100 ingredients
Perfume Creation
The creative perfumer knows the odours of each ingredient and will be able to predict what a blend might smell like
A fragrance house will have between 1000 and 6000 ingredients
Ingredients are found from every part of plants and from all over the world
Fruit
Seeds
Leaves
Rhizomes
Twigs and Branches
Bark
Heart wood
Grasses
Roots
Flowers Resins
Vetivert oil
INCI name Vetiveria Zizanoides
Geographic Origins Indonesia, Haiti, Bourbon, India
Botanical part Root
Extract Oil
Odour family Woody
Vetivert Distillation
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Vetivert bundles
Vetivert root
Vetivert oil
INCI name Vetiveria Zizanoides
Geographic Origins Indonesia, Haiti, Bourbon, India
Botanical part Root
Extract Oil
Odour family Woody
Vetivert being planted for terracing
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Vetivert is used here to help protect the more delicate crop basil
Vetivert is a grass above ground with a deep odorous root system
Ever since the dawn of the human race we have been blending smells to create harmonious odorous mixtures or perfumes
Why the word “Perfume”?
From Latin “per fumen”, meaning “through smoke” From the ancient practice of burning precious incense in religious ceremonies to cleanse and to act as a direct link with the gods
• Chypre is the French name for the island of Cyprus
• The Chypre accord includes oakmoss, patchouli and labdanum
• Could there be a link back to fragrances made in ancient Cyprus?
ChypreCoty 1917
• Chypre is the French name for the island of Cyprus
• Coty launched his Chypre in 1917
• The modern use of the term Chypre is often attributed to Coty
Coty launched the first modern Chypre with:
Chypre, Coty, 1917
“Give a woman a fine fragrance at a price she can afford, and an industry will grow up such as the world has never seen.”
Francois Coty 1905
Coty was the first to use the new powerful absolutes in:
La Rose Jaqueminot, Coty, 1904
The sense of smell
Odour Families
History of Fragrance
Fragrance Creation
Natural ingredients
Synthetic Ingredients trend setters
The Structure of the Perfume Industry
Commonly Reported Allergens INCI Names
Nature Identical: Examples of Natural occurrence:
Anisyl Alcohol
Benzyl Benzoate
Benzyl Cinnamate
Benzyl Alcohol
Benzyl Salicylate
Cinnamic Alcohol
Cinnamal
Citral
Citronellol
Coumarin
Eugenol
Farnesol
Geraniol
Isoeugenol
Limonene
Linalool
Aniseed oil
Benzoin resinoid
Benzoin resinoid
Ylang ylang oil
Ylang ylang oil
Cinnamon oils
Cinnamon oils
Lemon oil
Rose oil, geranium oil
Tonka bean absolute
Clove oil
Ylang Ylang oil
Rose oil, geranium oil
Clove oil
Citrus oils
Lavender oil
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Commonly Reported Allergens INCI Names
Not found in Nature: Trade name
Amyl Cinnamal
Amyl Cinnamic Alcohol
Hexyl Cinnamal
Butyl Phenol Methyl Propional
Hydroxyisohexyl-3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
Methyl-2-octynoate
Alpha iso Methyl Ionone
Lilial
Lyral
Natural:
Evernia PrunastriEvernia Fururacea
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THE ORIENTAL FAMILY
Shalimar Guerlain1925
1952 Youth Dew Estée Lauder
OpiumYSL1977
1985 ObsessionCalvin Klein
SamsaraGuerlain 1989
2002Dior Addict Dior
Prada Prada2004
Feminine fragrances
2012Coco NoirChanel
1898Jicky Guerlain
2012Tom Ford NoirTom Ford
Obsession for menCalvin Klein1986
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THE ORIENTAL ACCORD MASCULINE
Old SpiceShulton1931
1965Habit RougeGuerlain
Spice BombVictor & Rolf2012
Armani Code for menGiorgio Armani2004
1998Allure pour hommeChanel
CREATING YOUR OWN FRAGRANCE
Blend 1 Rosey floral
Blend 2 Jasmin floral
Blend 3 Oriental
Blend 4 Fruity floral fresh
Blend 5 Fruity floral gourmand
Blend 6 Fougère
Blend 7 Cologne
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CREATING YOUR OWN FRAGRANCE
Patchouli oil 10% Adding patchouli will create a chypre effect
Veltol plus 1% Adding veltol plus will bring a caramel gourmand note found in Angel and Prada Candy
Jasmin absolute 1% Try one drop and see how it adds complexity
Bergamot oil (bergaptene free) 10% You can add bergamot oil to lift your top note
Mandarin oil 10% You can add mandarin oil to modify your top note
Vetiver oil 10%Vetiver oil is often used in masculine fragrances
Blends well with patchouli
Cassis Base by Firmenich 10% A blackcurrant base used widely in fine fragrance
Calone 1% A drop of calone will bring aquatic freshness
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Jasmin absoluteRustic, the smell in a villageUnpleasant, strong, sharp‘Reminds me of houses for animals’
Jasmine flowerBright‘Reminds me of the jasmine in the garden at my home in Malaysia’
Jasmine, indolic, very floralSweet (floral), powdery‘Reminds me of the jasmine growing outside my apartment in Spain’
DIFFERENT RESPONSES TO JASMINE ABSOLUTE FROM STUDENTS AT LCF:
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Quiz1. Which of the following islands has an ancient history of fragrance
manufacture and is recognised in a fragrance family name today:
A – Cypress B – Fiji C – Malta
2. What is the name of the fragrance family?
3. What is the etymology of the word perfume?
4. Which of the following cultures invented the process of essential oil distillation:
A – Indian B – Chinese C – Arabic D – French
5. Which of the following is a top note fragrance ingredient?
A coumarin B vanillin C amyl acetate
6. What of the following is specific anosmia mean?
A Being able to smell a particular odour at a high concentration
B Not being able to smell one type of odour
because a particular odour receptor gene is no longer functioning
C Not being able to sleep on a particular type of fabric
7. Which of the following is a reputed benefit of rosemary oil?
A Helps memory B Helps sleep C Is anti-inflammatory
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Quiz1. Which of the following islands has an ancient history of fragrance
manufacture and is recognised in a fragrance family name today:
A – Cypress B – Fiji C – Malta
2. What is the name of the fragrance family? Chypre
3. What is the etymology of the word perfume? Through smoke
4. Which of the following cultures invented the process of essential oil distillation:
A – Indian B – Chinese C – Arabic D – French
5. Which of the following is a top note fragrance ingredient?
A coumarin B vanillin C amyl acetate
6. What of the following is specific anosmia mean?
A Being able to smell a particular odour at a high concentration
B Not being able to smell one type of odour
because a particular odour receptor gene is no longer functioning
C Not being able to sleep on a particular type of fabric
7. Which of the following is a reputed benefit of rosemary oil?
A Helps memory B Helps sleep C Is anti-inflammatory
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