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WJ155 www.woodworkersjournal.com

“America’s leading woodworking authority”™

Arts & Crafts Bookcase

Copyright Woodworker’s Journal © 2009

Published in Woodworker’s Journal Volume 32,No.4.

http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2_allversions.html

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August 2008 Woodworker’s Journal34

By Frank Grant

190.034 5/16/08 9:52 AM 4

Ilove pine ... its smell, workability, luster; there’s a feelto the wood that’s hard for me to describe. As a kidgrowing up in far northern Minnesota, we had a huge

white pine in the yard, the tallest tree for miles. Until I sawa real redwood, I couldn’t imagine a bigger tree on theplanet. It was the first tree I ever hugged, and it wasn’tthe last, either. The longleaf pine lumber in thisbookcase is a bit different, somewhat like red pine butdenser and heavier, with a workability similar to Easternslope Douglas fir. Not the wood you want to do acanthuscarving on, but perfect for furniture if you like simplelines with warm tones, lots of luster and straight grain.

I built this project using a combination of hand andpower tools as well as Rob Johnstone’s new FestoolDomino® loose-tenon joinery system. I’ll admit to beinga bit of a snob when it comes to my joinery methods, butI came away impressed with the Domino Joiner’s qualityand ease of operation. If you don’t own a Domino Joiner,you could use dowels instead to build this bookcase.

Prototyping and Selecting StockPrior to even picking lumber, I put together a full-scaleMDF prototype. It gives you an ideal chance to figureout what you’re trying to create before you start cuttinginto the good wood. I decided that a simple Craftsman-style design would lend itself well here, and breadboardends would be a nice decorative touch for the top.

Once I was satisfied with the design, I selected nice3/4" quartersawn stock from Rob’s longleaf stash. Onething about longleaf’s straight, parallel grain is that it’seasy to lose the details in all those psychedelic grainlines, and the tangentially sawn surfaces have atendency to look like grain patterns you see in CDXplywood — not the effect I wanted. So, I recommendchoosing stock carefully for each of the project parts.For the top and shelving, choose boards with an attrac-tive leading edge grain. On the other parts, find stockwith grain angled in relation to the vertical by 20° or so.

Starting with the Posts Notice in the left photo (below) that the bookcase postsare actually three face-glued strips of 3/4" stock with afourth strip that serves as veneer to cap the “show”edge. I did this to achieve a wraparound quartersawngrain pattern on the three visible sides of each post andhide the glue lines. To make them, glue up four blanksfor your posts (pieces 1), with one of the outer pieces oneach blank chosen to resaw for the thin veneer cap.Square up your post blanks on the jointer, and resaw

35

With its exceptionally long and straight-grained appearance,quartersawn longleaf pine lumber was a perfect selection for

this Arts & Crafts inspired bookcase.

The author created a seamless quartersawn appearance on the show faces of the legs(above left). To do this, he glued up three pieces of lumber, then sliced a 1/4" piece offone face (below). That slice was glued onto the front face of the leg and trimmed flushwith a bearing-guided flush-trimming bit (above right).

190.035 5/20/08 1:28 PM Page 35

Prepare the two groups of side slats by resawing themfrom the same piece of thicker material. That way, eachtrio of slats will have consistent grain pattern and color.

Set your side rails and stiles together, mark center-points for the Domino tenons and proceed to cut themortises. Remember to reset your Domino joiner if youmake your lower side stiles thinner like I did, to keep thetenons centered on the material thickness. Whenmortising the bottom stiles and rails, I positioned themachine’s cutter to just kiss the back side of the slatgrooves (the Domino cutters have metric diameters, andthe Domino size I chose was roughly 5/16" thick).

Dry-assemble the rails, stiles and slats so you canmark locations for the slat grooves and rail mortises oneach pair of posts. Mill the post slat grooves on therouter table, then bore the rail mortises. I indexed myDomino cutter using the slat grooves on the posts. Tocut the mortises, I simply folded the fence mechanismdown to 90°, then adjusted the height until the cuttermet the grooves.

When all the mortising is behind you, it’s time to cutthe shelf dadoes in the posts and across the insides ofthe bottom side stiles. I developed an accurate layout onone post before carefully transferring my shelf dadolocations to the other three. Note that since the shelveswrap around the insides of the posts and seat in the

lower stiles as well,you’ll need to dadoboth the inside faceand edge of each postto accommodate theshelves. To make these1/4"-deep dadoes, Iclamped the poststogether and used ascrap MDF fence toguide my router andstraight bit across thepart faces. Unclampthe posts and mill theadjacent dado cuts ontheir narrow insideedges, stopping these

them to a thickness of 113⁄16". The offcut should give youa nearly 1/4"-thick veneer piece for each post. Glue theveneer in place and trim off the overhang with a routerand piloted flush-trimming bit.

Building the Side AssembliesBuilding the bookcase side assemblies is an involvedpart of this project, but they’re not really too tough.You’ll see in the Drawings on the next page that the topareas of the sides are made up of pairs of short, decora-tive rails and stiles. The lower areas are filled with twolong, grooved stiles that capture three thin side slats.The rails and stiles attach to one another and to the postswith Domino tenons. Follow the Material List to make allthose rails and stiles (pieces 2 through 5) now.

As I worked through the initial design, I realized thatthe bottom side stiles would end up flush with themating rails, so I decided to reduce their thickness to5/8" to add visual interest and create more shadow lines.

Next, cut grooves along both edges of the bottom sidestiles as well as the inside edges of the

middle and bottom rails to house theside slats (pieces 6). I cut thesecentered grooves on the routertable using a 1/4" straight bit.

Strategizing the Multi-panel Bookcase Sides

The side panels are the most complicated subassemblies of

this project. To simplify itsomewhat, the author used the

Domino loose tenon joinerysystem from Festool.


190.036 5/16/08 9:55 AM Page 36

T x W x L1 Posts (4) 13⁄4" x 21⁄2" x 411⁄4"2 Side Top Rails (4) 3/4" x 11⁄8" x 61⁄4"3 Side Top Stiles (4) 3/4" x 11⁄8" x 21⁄2"4 Side Bottom Rails (2) 3/4" x 23⁄4" x 61⁄4"5 Side Bottom Stiles (4) 5/8" x 11⁄8" x 31"6 Side Slats (6) 1/4" x 13⁄4" x 311⁄2"7 Shelves (3) 3/4" x 109⁄16" x 267⁄8"8 Back Top Rail (1) 5/8" x 43⁄4" x 25"9 Back Bottom Rail (1) 5/8" x 23⁄4" x 25"

10 Back Slats (5) 1/4" x 51⁄16" x 311⁄2"

T x W x L11 Splines (4) 1/16" x 1/2" x 311⁄2"12 Front Rails (2) 3/4" x 11⁄8" x 25"13 Front Stiles (6) 3/4" x 11⁄2" x 21⁄2"14 Front Bottom Rail (1) 3/4" x 2" x 25"15 Top Panel (1) 3/4" x 12" x 291⁄2"16 Breadboard Ends (2) 3/4" x 31⁄8" x 12"17 Domino Tenons (32) 5mm x 19mm x 30mm18 Domino Tenons (28) 6mm x 20mm x 40mm19 Desktop Fasteners (4) 3/4" x 15⁄16"

3/4"

3/4"

3/4"

111/2"

23/4"

42"111/2"

61/2"21/2"

33/8"23/4"

2"

11/4"

1/8" 1/4" 1/4"

1/4"

1/4" 1/4"

1/8"

1/8" 3/16"

1/8"

1/8"

1/8"

5/16"

1

2

2

9 14

15

12

8

7

7

1

7

7

1/4"

5/8"

11/16"

13/4"

19/16"

65/8"

Shelf(Top View)

Section Views (Front and Side Views)

Bookcase Elevation(Front View)

MATERIAL LIST ARTS & CRAFTS BOOKCASE

1

1

1

1

1010

2

2

3

4

4

5

6

7

7

7

8

9

11

12

12

13

14

15

16

16

17

17

18

18

18

19

15

31/2"

1/2"

1/4"

1/2"

31/2"

21/4"

4"

1/4"1/4"

Top(Top View)

Side Bottom Stiles(Top View)

Side Middleand BottomRails(Section Views)

Back Topand BottomRails(Section Views)

(Front View)

8

9

1/4"

1/4"3/16"

3/16"

3/16"

1/4"1/2"

2

4

5/16"

5/16"

1/4"1/2"

3/16"

1/4" 1/4"

1/4"

3/16"

1/4"5

Back Edge

Front Edge

Use the drawing of the top (above)to lay out the mortises in thebreadboard ends. Once the

mortises are cut, size the tenons to match them.

190.037 5/16/08 11:54 AM Page 37


cuts at the slat grooves. Dry-fit the side assembliestogether again, mark the shelf dado locations on the sidebottom stiles (pieces 5), and rout these 3/16"-deepdadoes as well. Glue up and cut your shelf blanks(pieces 7) to size, trim their stepped ends to shape, andmake sure they fit the side assembly shelf dadoes.

Making the Bookcase Back and FrontThe bookcase back consists of five slats (pieces 10) thatfit into centered grooves on the back top and backbottom rails (pieces 8 and 9). Make these two rails first,according to the Material List. Cut the slat grooves atthe router table or on the table saw with a dado blade.Instead of wasting 3/4" stock on an area that won’treceive much stress, I resawed and thicknessed myback slats to just over 1/4", then planed them by hand tofit the rail grooves. Thin splines (pieces 11) between theback slats will keep gaps from opening up when the slatsshrink in the winter. I cut my spline slots along the edgesof the slats using a 3/32" thin-kerf blade in the table saw.Ash was a sturdy choice for my spline stock. Take careto make sure the splines fit the grooves just rightwithout breaking the fragile slat housings.

After checking the fit of your parts, mark the rails andposts for Domino mortises: three on the ends of the toprail and two on each end of the bottom rail. Mill them now.

Next, measure, cut and assemble the decorative fronttop rails and stiles (pieces 12 and 13), and make thebottom front rail (piece 14). Cut the appropriate mortisesin the rail and stile ends and in the posts for attachingthese parts with Domino tenons during final assembly.

Prefinishing Before ProceedingI switched to finishing prep next, which involved acombination of hand-planing, sanding, finishing andscraping before final assembly. I generally hand-planeflat and straight surfaces before evening them out with ascraper or sandpaper, and I followed that approach here.Then, after sanding with 180-grit paper and a thoroughtacking to remove dust, I brushed a coat of wax-freeshellac on all surfaces inside and out, except for insidethe slat grooves and, of course, the glue joint surfaces.The shellac will add depth to the grain’s appearance andseal in any resins that could bleed through the topcoat.

I let everything dry for a few hours before giving allsurfaces a light scraping — yep, you read that right.Scraping works like a charm, giving the wood apolished-smooth feel. You will need to hone your scraper

The breadboard tenons are separated by a shorter stub tenon. The fronttenon stops shy of the front edge, but the stub tenon continues off theback edge. Cut the tenons to final shape on the band saw. Refer to theDrawings for dimensions and placement.

Two shallow passes over the blade create the tenon shoulders. Back upthe workpiece with your miter gauge to keep these cuts trackingproperly, or use a crosscut sled. For safety’s sake, don’t guide thenarrow end of the workpiece against the rip fence.

Make the deep cheek cuts for the breadboard tenons on the table saw.Attach a tall auxiliary fence to your rip fence to help stabilize theworkpiece during cutting. If your saw has a riving knife that’sindependent of the guard (the author’s didn’t), be sure to use it here.

190.038 5/16/08 9:56 AM Page 38

wide x 3/8" deep groove into the breadboard ends,stopping these grooves 1/2" from the front end butrunning them all the way out the other end. Use thisgroove to index your mortising machine or drill press forboring two 31⁄2" wide x 23⁄4" deep mortises that receive thecenter panel tenons (use the Drawings of the top, piece15, to identify and lay out the mortise locations). Oncethe mortises are done, lay out the tenons on your panelends, cutting the cheeks and shoulders on the table saw.Band-saw the tenons to shape. They may require a bit oftrial-and-error final fitting to seat correctly.

Assemble the top panel parts, gluing just the deepmortise-and-tenon joints. I hand-planed my top flush,then sanded, sealed, scraped and topcoated it. Attach thetop to the case with metal desktop fasteners (shown inthe photo below) and screws. Now you’ve got a solid andvisually striking little pine bookcase that will providegenerations of loyal service.

39

carefully: you want a tiny burr, not a big hook. Once youget the hang of it, you won’t go back to sanding ... Iguarantee it! Build up the final topcoat layer with severalmore coats of finish.

AssemblyIt’s finally time toglue up the side rails,stiles, slats and poststo make both sidepanel subassemblies.Assemble the topfront rails and stilesas well so you caninstall it as a singleunit between the sideassemblies. After an

hour or so of drying time, strip the clamps. With theright side panel lying face-up on your bench, add thefront rail/stile assembly, bottom front rail, back rails,shelves and other back pieces to the equation. Drop theleft side panel into place, and install clamps and cauls tohold it all together. Tap the back panel pieces with amallet and block to align them properly.

Completing the Breadboard TopWhile the case joints dry, glue up a panel for the top(piece 15) and create blanks for the breadboard ends(pieces 16). Here’s how I cut the joints: First, rout a 1/4"

Bring it Together with Classic Breadboard Ends

The author established the mortiselocations in the breadboard ends,starting with a centered, stoppedgroove he cut on the router table.

Frank Grant is a professionalwoodworker and regular

contributor to Woodworker’sJournal.

190.039 5/16/08 9:57 AM Page 39


• A complete bill of materials.





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WJ017


Early American Dresser

Published in Woodworker’s Journal “From Shop to Home: EssentialProjects, Tips and Techniques for Today’s Home Woodworker”

WOODWORKER'S JOURNAL ©2007 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

102 Essential Projects, Tips and Techniques

Building thisdresser may

mark a number of firstsfor you. It may be thefirst time you’ll build

early American furniture.It my be your first largesolid-wood casework proj-ect. And it may be yourfirst shot at cutting dove-tails by hand, if you sochoose. But jumping thesehurdles will surely openup creative possibilitieswhile helping you build atruly classic dresser.

Inspiration for this proj-ect came when we visited asmall antique shop. Justinside the front door sat anunusual old dresser madeof clear pine with an orange

shellac finish. It had allthe telltale signs of age —fine joinery, nicked feet, abeautiful patina and acrazed finish — althoughwe could tell by all theplugged pilot holes in the

drawer fronts that the hardwarewasn’t original. What reallycaught our eye was the curved

Early American DresserWalk a mile in the shoes of a colonial cabinetmakerand you’ll learn a lot about how an heirloom is made.

Planning Ahead: The Early AmericanDresser Project

Set aside about 60 hours for building andfinishing the dresser. You’ll need a tablesaw, router and router table, a drill pressand a bandsaw or jigsaw. The recom-mended finish for this project is WatcoNatural Oil.

40 board feet of 3⁄4" cherry6 board feet of 13⁄4" cherry38 board feet of 3⁄4" poplar11⁄4 sheets of 3⁄8" birch plywoodEight early American drawer pulls


top molding, which turned outto be the front of a drawer. Afterdoing a little research we foundthat hidden drawers like thisone were used for storing docu-ments, although it’s hard toimagine how the drawerremained secret for very long.Working from some basic meas-urements and a photo of thedresser, we made some detaileddrawings and set out to con-struct this dresser just like theoriginal antique.

Selecting Wood and Gluing Panels

Country craftsmen tradition-ally chose local woods for theirprojects, like cherry and pine,and they left the importedwoods to urban cabinetmakerswho had rich customers withan appetite for fancier furniture.We chose cherry because it’sboth a handsome species andalso because it’s often lessexpensive than clear pine,another good choice for furni-

ture like this. For the hiddenparts of the dresser, like thedrawer sides and backs and theinternal frames, we chosepoplar. The drawer bottomsand the dresser’s back panelare made of birch plywood.

Set aside your best cherryboards for the drawer fronts(pieces 18, 21, 24, 27 and 30)and use your next best stockfor the top and sides (pieces 1

and 2). Joint and glue your lum-ber for the top and side panelsand, after the glue sets up,remove the squeeze-out with ascraper or chisel. Later, planethe panels flat and sand themto 120 grit.

Cut the side panels to sizeand lay out the sliding dovetailgrooves, the dadoes and therabbets, as shown in the SidePanel Elevation found in theTechnical Drawings on page 107.Cut the dadoes and rabbetswith your table saw and theappropriately sized dadoblades, then build a jig like theone shown in Figure 1 for rout-ing the sliding dovetail grooves.Chuck a dovetail bit in yourrouter and clamp the jig next toa joint layout on a panel. Set

Dresser 103

Figure 2: Rout tails on the rails with adovetail bit and a router table, makingsure the fit is just loose enough to slidethem into the grooves in the sides.

Figure 1: A T-square is ideal for routingthe dovetail grooves. Make the jig usingan extra wide piece of 1⁄4" plywood forthe base, then trim it to size with yourrouter and a 1⁄4" straight bit. Now youcan align the edge of the base with yourlayouts and rout the grooves using adovetail bit.

Align the edge of the basewith the groove layouts.

Fence

T-square

Blemish ControlIf you use wood filler tocover nail holes on prefin-ished wood, sanding awaythe excess filler can blemishthe surrounding finish. Oneway to eliminate the problemis to place a short piece ofmasking tape down whereyou plan to nail. Hammer andset the nail through the tape.Apply the wood filler overthe tape. When you peel offthe tape, a perfect roundspot is left and there’s littleor no sanding to do. It’s agreat technique to use withprefinished trim as well.



In colonialtimes, wood movementwas a big issue withcabinetmakers, just likeit is today.

For centuries, slidingdovetail joints havebeen used to hold solid

wood-structurestogether while stillallowing woodpanels to shrink orswell at will. Thekey is to leave therails unglued and

let the tails on the endsof the stiles hold thecarcass together.

T x W x L1 Top (1) 3⁄4" x 22" x 39" (cherry)

2 Sides (2) 3⁄4" x 201⁄2" x 32" (cherry)

3 Middle Frame Front Stiles (4) 3⁄4" x 27⁄8" x 357⁄8" (cherry)

4 Middle Frame Rear Stiles (4) 3⁄4" x 27⁄8" x 357⁄8" (poplar)

5 Middle Frame Rails (8) 3⁄4" x 33⁄8" x 155⁄8" (poplar)

6 Top Frame Front Stile (1) 3⁄4" x 27⁄8" x 357⁄8" (cherry)

7 Top Frame Rear Stile (1) 3⁄4" x 27⁄8" x 357⁄8" (poplar)

8 Top Frame Rails (2) 3⁄4" x 33⁄8" x 155⁄8" (poplar)

9 Bottom Frame Front Stile (1) 3⁄4" x 27⁄8" x 357⁄8" (cherry)

10 Bottom Frame Rear Stile (1) 3⁄4" x 27⁄8" x 357⁄8" (poplar)

11 Bottom Frame Rails (2) 3⁄4" x 33⁄8" x 155⁄8" (poplar)

12 Base Frame Stiles (2) 3⁄4" x 27⁄8" x 365⁄8" (poplar)

13 Base Frame Rails (2) 3⁄4" x 27⁄8" x 155⁄8" (poplar)

14 Feet (6) 13⁄4" x 63⁄4" x 81⁄2" (cherry)

15 Splines/Biscuits (2/4) 1⁄4" splines or #20 biscuits

16 Cornice Molding (2) 3⁄4" x 1" x 48" (cherry)

17 Base Molding (2) 3⁄4" x 1" x 48" (cherry)

18 Top Drawer Face (1) 3⁄4" x 4" x 365⁄8" (cherry)

T x W x L

MATERIAL LIST

1

2

3

4

5

67

8

8

9

11

1211

14 13

17

15

17

16

14

12

13

37

5

2

3

4

4

4

5

5

5

3

3

3

2

5

The Sliding Dovetail

Stile


the depth of cut to 3⁄8" and routthe groove. Repeat this proce-dure for each of the slidingdovetail grooves.

Building the CarcassRip cherry and poplar stock

for the middle frames, the bot-tom frame, the base frame andthe top frame (pieces 3 through

13). After cutting the pieces tolength, set up your router tablewith the same dovetail bit youjust used for the grooves.Clamp a fence near the bit andcut a dovetail on the edge ofsome poplar scrap wood to fitin the side panel grooves (seeFigure 2). You want a snug fit,just tight enough to require a

few taps with a mallet before itslides into place. Adjust yourset-up until you get the fit justright, then rout tails on oneedge of the rails for the middleframes (see the Sliding DovetailGroove Detail on page 104).Once you’ve finished routingtails on the rails, cut a tail onthe end of another scrap pieceof poplar and test its fit in a

Dresser 105

19 Top Drawer Front/Back (2) 3⁄4" x 31⁄2" x 351⁄8" (poplar)

20 Top Drawer Sides (2) 3⁄4" x 31⁄2" x 181⁄2" (poplar)

21 #2 Drawer Front (1) 3⁄4" x 41⁄2" x 351⁄8" (cherry)

22 #2 Drawer Back (1) 3⁄4" x 41⁄2" x 351⁄8" (poplar)

23 #2 Drawer Sides (2) 3⁄4" x 41⁄2" x 181⁄2" (poplar)










33 Top Drawer Bottom (1) 3⁄8" x 341⁄4" x 175⁄8" (plywood)

34 Drawer Bottoms (4) 3⁄8" x 341⁄4" x 18" (plywood)

35 Drawer Stops (10) 3⁄4" x 3/4" x 2" (poplar)

36 Drawer Pulls (8) Antique brass

37 Back (1) 3⁄8" x 36" x 33" (plywood)

T x W x L T x W x L

Dovetail JointDetailUse this layoutas a guide,varying thenumber, spacingand size of thedovetails oneach drawer.Begin and endeach joint with ahalf pin.

Cut 3⁄8" x 3⁄8"grooves for thebottoms, makingsure they passthrough a tail.

Figure 3: Clamp a set-up block to yourfence to align the shoulder of your tenonlayout with the 1⁄2" dado blade. Maketwo passes to cut each cheek.

26

18

19

20

33

24

25

20

34

26

36

19

26

18

19

20

33

24

25

20

34

26

36

19



1pt at 100%

63/4"

39"

6

7

8 8

Drill fixed countersunk pilot holes in the back stile.

Top Frame

Rout elongated holes in the rails and front stiles. Be sure to countersinkthe holes with a router and V-groove bit so the screwheads sit flush with the wood.

391/2"

71/2"

61/2"

51/2"

41/2"

31/2"

Bottom Frame

Base Frame

Install basemolding flush with edge of feet.

Miter molding to fit the carcass.

1

2

2

14

9

3

12

3

3

36

43/4"

21/2"

201/2"

Install all drawer handles at the same locations.

221/8"

273/8"

157/8"

85/8 "

1/2" 1/4"

1/2"

3/8"

Rout all dovetail groovesand dadoes 3/8" deep.

1/4" wide x 3/8" deep dado

7/32"

7/16"

3/8"

3/4"

3/4"

3/8"

3/4"

27/8"

27/8"

27/8"

3/8" 1/2"

12

12

13

3

3

5

6

6

8

Gap allows roomfor wood movementin the side panels. Do not glue these joints.

3/8" x 3/8" rabbet for back panel (piece 37).

Technical Drawings Early American Dresser

Top Frame Elevation

Carcass Elevation


Dresser 107

1pt at 100%

63/4"

39"

6

7

8 8

Drill fixed countersunk pilot holes in the back stile.

Top Frame

Rout elongated holes in the rails and front stiles. Be sure to countersinkthe holes with a router and V-groove bit so the screwheads sit flush with the wood.

391/2"

71/2"

61/2"

51/2"

41/2"

31/2"

Bottom Frame

Base Frame

Install basemolding flush with edge of feet.

Miter molding to fit the carcass.

1

2

2

14

9

3

12

3

3

36

43/4"

21/2"

201/2"

Install all drawer handles at the same locations.

221/8"

273/8"

157/8"

85/8 "

1/2" 1/4"

1/2"

3/8"

Rout all dovetail groovesand dadoes 3/8" deep.

1/4" wide x 3/8" deep dado

7/32"

7/16"

3/8"

3/4"

3/4"

3/8"

3/4"

27/8"

27/8"

27/8"

3/8" 1/2"

12

12

13

3

3

5

6

6

8

Gap allows roomfor wood movementin the side panels. Do not glue these joints.

3/8" x 3/8" rabbet for back panel (piece 37).

Side Panel Elevation

Sliding Dovetail Groove Detail Drawer Front Cove Detail

Drawer Elevation

Frame Elevations

BaseFrameElevation

MiddleFrameElevation

Top andBottomFrameElevation

Note: All dovetail loca-tions shown on the SidePanel Elevation indicatethe center of the grooves.Lay out the center lines,then use the detail at leftto lay out the full width ofeach groove. Use yourrouter and the jig shownon page 103 to make twopasses for each groovewith a 1⁄2" diameter, 14°dovetail bit.


groove to ensure a good fit. Ifnecessary, readjust the routertable set-up to get a good fit ona test piece, then rout the endsof the rear middle frame stiles.Next, test cut the end of a cher-ry scrap piece (the fit mightchange again) and rout thefront middle frame stiles.

Since there isn’t room forwell-supported sliding dovetailjoints at the ends of the sidepanels, join the top and bottomframes to the sides withtongues and dadoes. Install a3⁄8" dado blade in your tablesaw and raise the blade 1⁄2" toform the 1⁄4" tongues on theends of the stiles and one edgeof each rail.

Now lay out mortises on allthe frame stiles for the rail tostile joints, as shown in theFrame Elevations on theTechnical Drawings. Use a 3⁄16"drill bit and your drill press torough out the mortises, thenclean them up with a chisel.Next, form tenons on the endsof the rails to fit the mortises,using a table saw and a 1⁄2"dado blade (see Figure 3).

Assembling the carcass willgo a lot more smoothly if yourecruit an extra pair of handsfor the task, and we recom-mend installing one frame at atime to keep the process man-ageable. Start by spreading gluein the first 3" of one set of dove-tail grooves in the side panels,then slip a front stile into place.Next, set the carcass on itsface, brush some glue into thefront stile mortises and slip therails into the dovetail groovesfrom the back of the side pan-els. Be careful to avoid gluing

the rails to the sides or you’llrestrict the seasonal movementof the panels. Press the rails asfar forward as you can to seatthe tenons in the front stilemortises. Now brush glue in thelast 2" of each dovetail grooveand tap the rear stiles intoplace, stopping when the railssit flush with the rabbets in thesides. Do not put glue in therear stile mortises so the sidepanels can move. Clamp thecarcass together, then repeatthe installation procedure forthe rest of the frames, includingthe top and bottom frames.

Constructing the BaseGlue the base frame together,

then select thick cherry stock


Figure 4: After mitering the front feet, cutslots with a biscuit joiner and join thepieces with biscuits. If you don’t have abiscuit joiner, use splines.

Top DrawerFace Detail

Base Molding DetailStep 1: With a router table and core boxbit, rout a cove along the edges of yourboard. Step 2: Cut rabbets with your table saw.

Fen

ce

Fen

ceF

ence

Fen

ce

Fen

ceF

ence

Fen

ce

Fen

ceF

ence

Cut on your table saw.

Shape with ablock plane.

Make a saw kerf,then shape with arabbet plane.

Shape with arabbet plane.

Top Edging DetailStep 1: With a router table and corebox bit, form a cove at the edges of aboard.Step 2: Install a roundover bit in yourrouter table to complete the molding.

Cornice MoldingDetailRout the edges of aboard with a pilotedcove bit, leaving a 1⁄8"wide fillet along thetop of each edge.

Top Edging

Cornice Molding

Top Drawer Face

Base Molding

Foot Bracket

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ence


for the feet (pieces 14). Cut the stock for the feetto size and miter one end of four pieces for thefront foot assemblies. Make sure the miters aresquare to the edges of the stock. Next rout aspline slot or cut biscuit slots in the miters (seeFigure 4). Adding splines or biscuits (pieces 15)to the miter joints will greatly reinforce the footassemblies. Now make a full-size pattern of thefoot using the Technical Drawings as a guide, andtrace it onto your stock. Bandsaw the feet toshape (see Figure 5) and smooth the edges with adrum sander. Make plywood splines (if you needthem) and glue the mitered feet together.

After blending the corners of the two front footassemblies with a palm sander, draw a line on thetop of each foot 3⁄4" back from the front edge.Glue and screw the base frame to the feet, align-ing the outside edges of the frame with the linesyou just drew on the feet — make sure the backedge of the frame is flush with the back edge ofthe rear feet. The 3⁄4"-wide ledge now formed on

the top of each foot will support the base mold-ing that conceals the joint between the carcassand the base.

Adding the MoldingsTo make the cornice molding (pieces 16), rout

the edges of a 3" or wider board with a cove bitand roundover bit following the Cornice MoldingDetail illustration on the previous page. Miter themolding to length, then glue and pin the frontpiece to the cabinet with #17 wire brads. For theside pieces, glue the first 3" only, then pin theremaining length to the side panels with brads toallow for wood movement. Use a nail set to drivethe brad heads below the wood surface, and fillthe holes with a matching wood putty.

Rout a 3" or wider piece of stock for the basemolding (piece 17) with a cove bit, then trim theleftover waste on your table saw, as shown in theBase Molding Detail illustrations, previous page.Use a rabbet plane and sandpaper to round over

the filet on the front edge ofthe molding, and rip the mold-ing off the board. Miter themolding to length, then glueand nail the pieces to thebase assembly.

Now rout 1⁄8"-wide elongatedholes in the front stile andrails of the top frame, and drillfixed holes in the back stile asshown in the Top FrameElevation (see TechnicalDrawings). Countersink all theholes with a V bit and routerto recess the heads of yourscrews. These pilot holes willallow the top to move after it’sscrewed to the carcass.

Figure 5: Use a1/4" or narrowerbandsaw bladefor making thetight cuts alongthe outline ofeach foot. Setthe saw guidesjust above thewood to keepthe blade fromwandering.

Figure 6: Tracethe pattern ofthe top drawerface on the endof your stockand removesome of thewaste with yourtable saw. Shapethe face with arabbet plane andblock plane.

Secret drawers werecommon in

Eighteenth centuryfurniture and oftencontained a family’s

most importantdocuments. Today,they serve better assock drawers than

documenthideaways.

Dresser 109


Cut the top to size and rout itsfront and side edges with thebits shown in the Top EdgingDetail illustrations on page 108.Sand the top to at least 120 grit,then position the panel on thecarcass. Mark all the pilot holelocations, drill them with a 3/32"bit and secure the panel to thecabinet with #8 screws.

Complete the cabinet assem-bly by placing the carcass onthe base and drilling counter-sunk pilot holes through thebottom frame and into the baseframe. Now drive screws to holdthe two subassemblies together.

Making the DrawersSelect a board for the top

drawer front (piece 18) and ripit to width. Cut it a little longerthan needed and trace theshape of the top drawer faceprofile (see Technical Drawings)onto the ends of the board.Begin the shaping process byripping a kerf to define theinside edge of the bottom bead,as described in the Top DrawerFace Detail. Next, remove someof the waste at the top of thedrawer face by tilting the tablesaw blade 15° and running thestock on-edge through theblade. Straighten the blade tocut the small rabbet along thetop edge, then form the humpand bead of the molding byhand with a rabbeting planeand smoothing plane (seeFigure 6). Wrap up the shapingwith a palm sander.

Rip and crosscut the rest ofyour drawer fronts to size, aswell as all the sides and backs(pieces 19 through 32), then layout the dovetails — half-blinddovetails on the fronts andthrough dovetails on the backsand top drawer box (seeExploded Views, page 105). Use

a marking gauge with a knifepoint to define the back shoul-der of each joint and a utilityknife for laying out the sideshoulders of the pins and tails.Be sure to begin and end eachjoint with a half pin, as shownin the Dovetail Joint Detail onpage 105. Cut the pins first,then use them to trace the taillocations. A fine-toothed tenonsaw works well for cutting thejoints, and paring them to finalfit is only possible with a verysharp chisel (see the CuttingDovetails sidebar, previous

Cutting dovetail joints isn’thard, it just takes practiceand patience. Although, usingquality tools definitely helps.A marking gauge with a knifepoint, for instance, will layout crisp joint shoulders thatgive your chisels a positivestarting point, and a well-tuned bevel gauge will keepyour pin and tail angles con-sistent. Stiff-bladed sawsmake it easier to keep yourpins and tails square andsharp chisels are essential.

Cutting Dovetails

Use a fine-toothed tenon saw with aback stiffener to cut the pins andtails, always stopping just shy of theshoulder lines.

Sharp chisels make fine tuning yourdovetails possible. Without themyou’ll get more tear out and sloppierfitting joints.

A coping saw will speed up therepetitive work of removing the wasteafter the pins and tails are definedwith the tenon saw.

Growth Ring JoineryTo make tight corners onboxes, drawers, or chests,take a close look at your woodbefore doing any milling.Arrange the parts so that allthe end grain has the annualrings curved out toward theends. Wood tends to cup inthe direction opposite therings curve, so if you crownthe board the wrong way therings might draw the joineryapart over time.


page). Or, rout the dovetailswith a router and dovetail jig.

After completing the dovetailjoints, rout the 3⁄8" wide by 3⁄8"deep grooves for holding thedrawer bottoms (pieces 33 and34), as shown in the DrawerElevation on page 107. Noticethat these grooves will runthrough a pair of tails in thedrawer sides, but the resultingholes won’t show on the backof the drawers.

Assemble the drawers, makingsure to check for squareness asyou go. Allow the glue to dry,then trim the joint ends flushwith the drawer sides and backs.Use a hand plane to carefullyshave the top edges of the draw-ers until they fit the cabinetopenings — if it’s winter, leave a3⁄32" gap; in summer, a 1⁄32" gap.

Next, screw the top drawer boxto the drawer face. Be sure toalign its ends with the sides ofthe dresser and leave a 1⁄16" gapbetween the top of the drawerface and the cornice molding.

Use a cove bit to rout theedges around all the drawerfaces except the top one, thenslide the drawers into the cabi-net and install the stops (pieces35). Screw the stops to the rearstiles on each frame. Now drillpilot holes in the drawer frontsfor the pulls (pieces 36).

Cut plywood for the back(piece 37) and set it into the cab-inet, then drill countersunk pilotholes and screw the back to therabbets in the side panels.

Now that you’ve spent allthis effort putting your dressertogether you get to take it apart

again. Remove the back, baseand top, and pull out all thedrawers so you can sand every-thing to 220 grit before applyingan oil finish. With the first coatof finish you’ll see the cherrybegin to mellow, which will con-tinue for years until the piecelooks like an antique. Applythree more coats of oil finishand polish off the project with acoat of paste wax.

There’s a wealth of wood-working knowledge hidden inthis dresser. By building it,you’ve now stepped into theshoes of the craftsman whobuilt the original some 200years ago. Perhaps no one elsewill fully recognize yourachievements — except ofcourse another woodworker.

Dresser 111

Jig for Cutting Mitered CornersIf your table saw won’t cut accu-rate miters, this jig can help. Startwith a keyed plywood base of 3⁄4"thick stock. Lower the blade belowthe table top and make sure theplywood slides smoothly alongthe miter slot. Raise theblade and cut theside absolutely par-allel to the blade. Cuttwo matching sidesto about 48° and gluethese to the base, holdingtheir tips to the saw-cutparallel edge. With a steelsquare, mark a line on the jig at 90°to the blade and add a fence for reg-istering the edges of your stock. Nowtilt the blade just a bit until you havea perfect 45° angle for your cuts.Remember to reset the blade to ver-tical after using it.

Miterslot key

Fence












WJ099


A Table for Four...with a View

Published in Woodworker’s Journal “Woodworking Secrets:Essential Methods and Projects for Fine-Tuning Your Shop Skills”


Figure 1: Cutting the spline slots in the top slats is easy with the jig shown here. Use a high fence to steady the longer slats and, since you’ll be flipping them end for end, make sure you’re cutting the slotexactly in the center of the stock so they line up during assembly.

DECK TABLE FOR FOUR 105

A Table for Four…with a ViewOne of the best ways to spend more time on the deck or patio is to build a picnic

table and benches. Made of redwood, our design easily seats four adults. The

pedestal style provides ample leg room, and everyone gets a generously sized bench.

With a little seasonal care, here’s an outdoor project that will easily last for decades.

Spring and summer are naturalelixers for creating outdoor projects. Asthe temperature rises, the urge tospend as much time as possible out-doors can be overwhelming. It’s time toclean up the barbeque, sweep off thedeck and think about building a sturdypicnic table and benches.

Most picnic sets are designed forlarger groups of people. They’re big andbulky, and when it comes to MemorialDay or July 4th celebrations, they’reperfect. But most of us, when you thinkabout it, spend our summer eveningswith four or fewer people, and ideallythis calls for a smaller, more intimatetable. Our design makes no pretensionabout handling large crowds, fits easilyon an average-sized deck and providesa perfect view the yard.

A pedestal table like this allows lotsof room for knees, and no one ends upstraddling a leg. Our picnic set is madeof redwood for its exceptional resistanceto harsh weather conditions and for it’sbeautiful color. The base is sturdy whilestill being simple to construct. The join-ery is simple, requiring only a couple ofhalf laps in the base and spline joints forthe top. Most concealed joints, like mor-tises and tenons, would eventually comeapart due to humidity changes andstress on such soft wood.

Redwood is still available at somelumberyards, or you can substitutecedar if you prefer. The table and four

benches require 18 eight foot 2" x 4"s,one eight foot 2" x 6" and two six foot1" x 4"s. You’ll also need a quantity ofnon-corrosive wood screws, lag screwsand washers as specified in the MaterialLists on pages 107 and 111.

Constructing the PedestalBegin building the table from the

bottom and work upward. The patterns

on pages 106 and 107 outline the fourpedestal feet and detail the constructionof the base. Be sure to remember thatall the lumber sizes are nominal, mean-ing that a 2" x 4" is actually 11⁄2" x 31⁄2"so always measure your stock to checkit against the measurements in this proj-ect. Each foot is comprised of a 2" x 4"core sandwiched between two smaller11⁄4"-thick pieces. Begin by cutting two


Table Exploded View

7

11

7

10

1/2"

1/2"

1/2"

1"

8

9

5

3

1

26

4

Spline Detail

106 HOME PROJECTS

Support Beam Assembly

13/4"

3/4"

3/4"

45°

Top View

Beam

5/ 8"

21/ 4"

101/ 8"

23/ 8"

48"

15"

24"

Side View

29 "

Foot14"

28"

Foot Assembly

91/ 2" 111/ 2"

121/ 2°30°3"

11/2" 13/4" x Flop notch for other foot

11/2" 13/4" x Flop notch for other beam

3/ 4"

LegDrilling Locations

Appliques




13/4"

3/4"

3/4"

45°

Top View

Beam

5/ 8"

21/ 4"

101/ 8"

23/ 8"

48"

15"

24"

Side View

29"

Foot14"

28"

Foot Assembly

91/ 2" 111/ 2"

121/ 2°30°3"



3/ 4"


Appliques

MATERIAL LIST – Table

T x W x L

1 Foot Cores (2) 11⁄2" x 31⁄2" x 28"

2 Foot Appliques (Left) (4) 11⁄4" x 3" x 111⁄2"

3 Foot Appliques (Right) (4) 11⁄4" x 3" x 91⁄2"

4 Foot Pads (4) 1/4" x 11⁄2" x 2"

5 Support Beams (2) 11⁄2" x 31⁄2" x 48"

6 Legs (4) 11⁄2" x 31⁄2" x 29"

7 Top Slats (28) 11⁄2" x 11⁄2" (for lengths, see pg. 106)

8 Splines (28) 1/2" x 1" x 2" (White Oak)

9 Dowels (8) 3/4" x 14" (White Oak)

10 Plywood Base (1) 1/2" x 123⁄4" x 123⁄4"

11 Marble Center Piece (1) 3/8" x 12" x 12"

12 Lag Screws (16) 5/16" x 2"


13/4"

3/4"

3/4"

45°

Top View

Beam

5/ 8"

21/ 4"

101/ 8"

23/ 8"

48"

15"

24"

Side View

29 "

Foot14"

28"

Foot Assembly

91/ 2" 111/ 2"

121/ 2°30°3"



3/ 4"


Appliques

2" x 4"s to a length of 28" for the footcores (pieces 1), then cut four 2" x 4"sto a length of 111⁄2" for the left footappliques (pieces 2) and four more 2" x4"s to a length of 91⁄2" for the right footappliques (pieces 3). In two passes, ripthe applique pieces to a thickness of11⁄4". Then cut the four foot pads (pieces4) so they’re ready to glue onto theassembly later.

Cut the two table support beams(pieces 5) to a length of 48" and lay outthe half lap joint at the midpoint (seeBeam Elevation above). While you’re atit, cut the half laps on the foot cores,remembering that for each pair, onemember is notched on its top edge,while the other is notched on its bottom

edge. Mount a 1/2"-wide dado blade inyour table saw and raise it 13⁄4", then,using a miter gauge for support,remove the waste in the dadoes by tak-ing three passes with each piece. Asnug fit is best for these joints.

One edge on the foot cores, theappliques and the support beams mustnow be cut at an angle on the bandsaw. Follow the Elevations to lay outeach of these angles and, once theshapes are cut, belt-sand the surfacessmooth. Next, rout a 3/16" roundoveron the bottom edges of the beams, thetop edges of the two foot cores and theoutside top edge of the foot appliques.

The foot core and beam pieces arenow ready for assembly. Epoxy is an

excellent waterproof glue that providesa long set-up time and good gap fillingproperties, making it the best choice forthis application. Mix only the amountyou can use in a short period of time,then spread it into the half laps. Securethe half laps by driving two non-corro-sive screws up into each joint.

For the legs (pieces 6) cut four 2" x 4"s to a length of 29", and rout a1/2" chamfer on one edge of every leg.Now prepare the legs for joining withthe foot and beam assemblies bydrilling counterbored pilot holes at thelocations indicated on the LegElevations shown above. First drill 1/2"-deep by 3/4"-diameter counter-bores and follow with 5/16" pilot holes.


108 HOME PROJECTS

36"

321/2"

251/2"

181/2"

29"

22"

15"41/2" 41/2"

Side View

Center Tile Platform

7

11

3/8"

1/4"

1/2"

1/4" Gap

10

Figure 3: The drawing at left illustrates theslat lengths needed for each frame as wellas the dowel hole positions. Miter four slatsto each of these lengths to make the sevenframes. Follow the layout shown above togroove the four slats in the smallest frameso it can house the plywood base that sup-ports the marble.

Slip the legs into position with the feet tomark the screw locations, then removethe legs and drill 1/4" pilot holes in thefeet. Repeat this last procedure with thelegs and the beams.

Now mix a new batch of epoxyand spread it on the legs where theyjoin the feet and beams. Place the legsinto position and secure the joints withlag screws (pieces 12), remembering toput a washer on each one. Spreadepoxy on the eight foot appliques aswell and clamp them to each side ofthe foot core pieces. Clean up as muchglue as possible with a damp rag andlater, when the glue has dried, scrapeoff any remaining epoxy residue.

Machining the Table TopYou’ll need 64 lineal feet of 11⁄2"-by-

11⁄2" stock (pieces 7) to make the sevenframes of the top. Each frame is joinedat the corners with splines (pieces 8),and the frames are then joined to oneanother with dowels (pieces 9). Thecenter frame is filled with a piece of

marble backed by 1/2"-thick plywood.Rip 4 eight foot 2" x 4"s into

11⁄2"-square stock for the slats that makeup the top. Once this is done, roundoverall the edges on the eight-foot-longstrips with a 3/16"-radius bit. Next, miterthe pieces to length with a power mitersaw, a table saw or a radial arm saw.Follow the measurements shown abovein the Top Elevation, to cut four slats ofequal length for each frame.

The slats are splined together attheir mitered ends to give the top extrarigidity and to minimize any gaps thatmight occur due to the effects ofhumidity. A typical table saw jig for thisoperation is shown in Figure 1 on page105. The jig, which looks like a lowercase “h” from the end, is made of ply-wood to wrap over the rip fence. Cuttwo pieces of 2" x 4" scrap to theshapes shown in the drawing andscrew them to the jig at a 45° angle forsupporting the slats as they pass overthe blade.

Install a 1/2"-wide dado blade in

your table saw and raise it 1/2". Nowclamp the rip fence so the face of the jigis 3/4" from the center of the blade andyou’ll get perfectly centered dadoes.

Next, drill two 3/4" holes into everyslat for inserting the dowels that reinforcethe top assembly. Chuck a 3/4"-diameterbit in your drill press and, to ensure accu-racy, make the alignment jig shown inFigure 2 by screwing a 11⁄2" x 12" fence toa piece of scrap 1" x 8". Clamp the jig toyour drill press table so the center of thebit is 3/4" from the fence. Draw lines onthe drill press fence 41⁄2" to the left andright of the bit’s center and put centerlines on the longest edge of each slat.Match the center line of the slat with themark on the left side of the fence and drillthe first hole, then slide the slat to theright to align the marks and drill the sec-ond hole.

The slats for the smallest framemust be grooved on their inside edge tohouse the plywood base (piece 10) thatsupports the marble (piece 11). Set upa 1/2"-wide dado and raise it to 3/8".



Plow the groove so it is set back 1/4"from the top surface of the slats (seeFigure 3, facing page).

The splines (pieces 8) are made ofwhite oak for strength and weatherresistance. Rip a 1/2" x 6" x 20"-longoak board into 21⁄2"-wide strips. Next,cut the strips into 1"-long pieces. You’llnotice that the grain runs the short wayon these splines, which is correct forthis application. If the grain of thesplines runs parallel with the joint theyare much more likely to break. You’llneed a total of 28 splines.

The dowel rods (pieces 9) are alsomade of white oak. Cut four 36" dowelsin half and sand them vigorously with100-grit paper to slightly reduce theirsize so they fit into the slat holes easily.Now chamfer one end of every dowelwith a belt sander.

Making the Top AssemblyAssembling the frames isn’t difficult

at all if you make yourself the specialframing jig shown in Figure 4 on thenext page. Make four blocks from scrap2" x 4" material, cutting each block 31⁄2"square. Mark the center of the blocksand drill a 11⁄2"-diameter hole througheach one. Next, cut in from two sidesto form a 90° inside corner. Place oneof these blocks outside each corner ofa frame and use a band clamp, runningaround the entire assembly, to pull theframe and blocks tight.

Glue up each frame by spreadingepoxy in the spline grooves and on themitered ends of the slats. Next, put thesplines in place and assemble the frame.Now set up the band clamp and cornerblocks to pull the frame together whilethe glue dries. Check for squareness bymeasuring diagonally across each frame,adjusting the frame until the two meas-urements are equal. Remember that theplywood base (piece 10) for supporting

the tile should be installed at this time inthe smallest frame.

The top is designed with 1/4" gaps between each frame. In order tomaintain this spacing, make a bunch of 1/4"-thick spacers to place betweenthe frames while you drive the dowelsthrough the holes. Put some epoxy inthe holes in the smallest and largestframes, then lay all the frames and 1/4"spacers in sequence on your bench.Tap the chamfered ends of the dowelsinto the frames and continue until theycontact the plywood center plate. Onceall the dowels are driven, turn theassembly over and pin the dowels inevery frame with a 11⁄4"-long brad. Drillpilot holes before driving the brads and,after countersinking them slightly, fill thehole with wood putty to minimize theeffects of moisture. Finally, cut off theends of the dowels and sand themflush with the outside frame.

Center the pedestal on the over-turned top and mark three screw loca-tions in each support beam where theysolidly cross the frames (see ExplodedView on page 106). Use a 1/2"-diame-ter bit to counterbore these positions.Since the width of the beams vary from

one screw location to another, drill yourcounterbores deep enough to leave 1" ofstock remaining from the bottom of thehole to the top edge of the beam. Nowdrill 1/8" pilot holes through the beamand 1/2" into the top. Join the assem-blies with #10-2" non-corrosive woodscrews. It’s also convenient at this timeto glue and pin the foot pads (pieces 4)onto the bottom of each foot core.

Set the table upright to install themarble. Run a thin bead of silicone caulkon the plywood where it meets the red-wood frame, and add four evenly spaceddollops of caulk on the interior area of theplywood. Set the marble in place, wipeaway any squeeze-out with a damp ragand let the caulk cure overnight.

Building the BenchesThe benches are designed in a

trestle style that incorporates many ofthe same elements as the table. As youdid with the table, make the feet andsupport beams first. The patterns forthese pieces are on page 111, so goahead and cut out eight feet (pieces 13)and eight support beams (pieces 15)from 2" x 4" stock, and sixteenappliques (pieces 14) for the feet from3/4" redwood. Roundover all the topedges of the feet, the outside topedges of the appliques, and all the bottom edges of the beams with a3/16"-radius bit. Prepare the beamsand feet for joining the legs by drilling1/2"-deep by 3/4"-diameter counter-bores as shown in the ElevationDrawings on page 111. Follow thecounterbores by drilling 5/16" pilotholes. Each beam also requires two1/2"-diameter by 11⁄4"-deep counter-bores on the bottom edge for securingthe outside slats in the seat assembly(see page 111). Follow these counter-bores with 1/8" pilot holes.

All the legs (pieces 16) are cham-

Figure 2: Once the drilling jig is clamped tothe drill press table, align the center mark onthe slat with the left line on the fence to drillthe first hole. Next, slide the slat along the jigto line up its center line with the right locationmark on the fence and drill the second hole.


110 HOME PROJECTS

8

7

11/2" Dia.

31/2"

13/4"

31/2"

1/2" R.

Figure 4: Make corner blocks fromscrap redwood and set one outside each

corner of the mitered frame. Draw the framejoints tight on the splines by wrapping a band clamparound the whole assembly. Thumbtacks help keepthe straps aligned on the corner blocks.

fered on their bottom edges andnotched at the top to join with thestretchers. Cut the legs to length andchamfer their bottom edges on thetable saw. Lay out the notches followingthe elevation on the next page andremove the waste with a jigsaw. Lay thefeet and beams on the legs, then drillthe pilot holes and join the piecestogether with lag screws (pieces 20).Use epoxy to adhere the appliques toeach foot.

The stretchers (pieces 17) spanbetween the legs, giving the benchestheir strength and acting as the middleslat in the seats. Use the pattern on thenext page to lay out the stretchers,including the dowel hole locations. Cutthem out with a jigsaw and round overthe top and bottom edges with a 3/16"-radius bit. Slip the stretchers into the legnotches and equip your portable drill

with a 1/4" bit. Now extend the centerlag screw hole from each support beaminto the stretchers for 2".

The slats (pieces 18) that make upthe seat are the same as those on thetable top, so you can rip four eight foot2" x 4"s into 11⁄2" x 11⁄2" strips and cutthem into 24" lengths. Round over allthe slat edges with the 3/16"-radius bit.Now use the same drill press jig youmade for the table top and drill twodowel holes 41⁄2" off center on each slat.Remember to drill these holes throughthe slat portion of each stretcher also.

Cut two 13"-long dowels (pieces 19)for each seat and sand them with 100-grit paper so they slip into the slat holeseasily. Now put epoxy in the stretcherholes and slip the dowels in place, leav-ing about 51⁄4" stick out on each side.Wipe the glue from the dowels and add

two more slats on both sides of thestretcher. Be sure to use 1/4" spacersbetween every piece and pin these slatswith brads. Now put epoxy into the holesin the two outside slats and mount themonto the dowels. The finished width ofthe seat should be 12". When the glue isdry, cut off the ends of the dowels andsand them flush with the slats.

Set the seat assembly onto thelegs, dropping the stretcher tenons intothe notches and securing the joints with3" lag screws (pieces 21). Now flip theentire bench over and drive #10-2" woodscrews (pieces 22) through the beamsinto the outside slats to completelysecure the seat to the leg assembly.

Redwood, as it ages, turns from itsoriginal red color to silvery grey. Theonly way to maintain the original reddishtone is to color the wood with an exteri-

or wood preservative. Reapply this fin-ish every season.


Bench Exploded View


20

13

14

16

15

21

17

18

1918

14

71/2"

63/4"

24"

3"

3"

18"

11/16" 11/2"

3 / 4 "

3 3 / 4 "

12 "

11 1 / 2 "

30 °

30 °

13 1 / 2 "

1 "

1 1 / 8"

18 "

2 3 / 8"45 °

21 "

3 / 4 "

15 "

5"

7 1 / 2 "

4 " 30 °

16 1 / 2 "

3 " 3 1 / 2 "

51 / 2 "

Stretchers

Appliques

Front View Side View

71/2"

63/4"

24"

3"

3"

18"

11/16" 11/2"

3 / 4 "

3 3 / 4 "

12 "

11 1 / 2 "

30 °

30 °

13 1 / 2 "

1 "

1 1 / 8"

18 "

2 3 / 8"45 °

21 "

3 / 4 "

15 "

5"

7 1 / 2 "

4 " 30 °

16 1 / 2 "

3 " 3 1 / 2 "

51 / 2 "

Stretchers

Appliques


71/2"

63/4"

24"

3"

3"

18"

11/16" 11/2"

3 / 4 "

3 3 / 4 "

12 "

11 1 / 2 "

30 °

30 °

13 1 / 2 "

1 "

1 1 / 8"

18 "

2 3 / 8"45 °

21 "

3 / 4 "

15 "

5"

7 1 / 2 "

4 " 30 °

16 1 / 2 "

3 " 3 1 / 2 "

51 / 2 "

Stretchers

Appliques


MATERIAL LIST – Four Benches

T x W x L

13 Feet (8) 11⁄2" x 31⁄2" x 131⁄2"

14 Appliques (16) 3/4" x 3" x 33⁄4"

15 Support Beams (8) 11⁄2" x 31⁄2" x 111⁄2"

16 Legs (8) 11⁄2" x 51⁄2" x 161⁄2"

17 Stretchers (4) 11⁄2" x 5" x 24"

T x W x L

18 Seat Slats (24) 11⁄2" x 11⁄2" x 24"

19 Dowels (8) 3/4" x 13"(White Oak)

20 Lag Screws (40) 5/16" x 2"

21 Lag Screws (8) 5/16" x 3"

22 Wood Screws (16) #10 - 2"












WJ112


Weekend Toy Box

Published in Woodworker’s Journal “Woodworking for the HomeHobbyist: 27 Great Projects and Techniques for your Woodshop”


Toys are a lot more than mereplaythings. They represent everythingfrom a child’s dreams for the future to a parent’s paradise lost. But even withsuch wonderful esoteric values, thereality is that most of the time they’rejust a huge mess all over the house.That’s particularly true nowadays, whena kid seems to own every toy that’sever appeared on TV.

The rules are a little different thesedays, too. Kids are often allowed to setup fun shops in the middle of the livingroom. On the other hand, you mayhave memories of your old toy box relegated to a bedroom because it didn’t “go” with mom’s decor.

So, here is a toy box for today. It’sdesigned to look great in the livingroom or basement, featuring basicconstruction with elegant results.Purchase or have the cushion made,and you have a toy box that will easilyconvert to a blanket chest or perhapsan extra seat for the big game.

Whether you’re an old hand atwoodworking or a raw recruit, this project is manageable with just the

Step 1: Cut the plywood panels to size,machine four rabbets and test the fit.

Step 2: Add the edge banding, flutedmolding and plinth blocks.

Step 4: Add the finish of your choice, afew strips of Velcro® and a nice cushion.

TOY BOX 143

Weekend Toy BoxSafe and sturdy, stylish and practical, this weekend project is easy to build. Butt

joints covered by simple fluted moldings create a classic toy box that stores tons

of fun, even if it all tends to stay in the living room and in full view. Eventually, this project

transforms easily into a keepsake chest and even doubles as extra seating.

AS EASY AS 1-2-3…4

Step 3: Attach the lid and add the hard-ware: two child-safe lid supports and asimple piano hinge hold it securely.

barest array of tools. All you’ll need area table saw, router and a few basichand tools. A circular saw might comein handy, but it isn’t absolutely essential.

Keep two things in mind whenchoosing the wood for your toy box.First, look for a species your lumberyardstocks in both 3/4"-thick hardwoodstock and 3/4" veneered plywood. We

found both in cherry for the box shownhere. Second, think about how yourchoice will match your room decor.

Cutting Major Components to SizeDimensions for the top, sides, front

and back (pieces 1, 2 and 3) are givenin the Material List on page 145. All fiveparts can be cut from a single sheet of


144 HOME PROJECTS

Top

Front

SideBottom

SideBack

1 2

23 3

4

Plywood Cutting Guide (Note: You don’t have to cut the bottompiece from your expensive plywood.)

Make this cut first

veneered plywood, as shown in the Plywood Cutting Guide, above. Whenlaying out these cuts, pay special atten-tion to grain direction, so the lines runhorizontally around the box. You’ll findsome helpful pointers on handling largesheets on page 148. The bottom (piece4) can be squeezed out of your niceplywood, but since it won’t be seen,you’re better off cutting it from anyhalfway respectable-looking sheet stockyou have laying around.

Most hardwood veneered sheetscome with an A (or A2) and a B side.The A side is a better quality veneer,and it should be facing out on the fin-ished project. Make sure the bladealways enters the good side and exitsthe B side, to avoid splintering. So, ifyou’re using a circular saw to cut a fullsheet to size, the A side should be fac-ing down. On the table saw, the orient itso the A side faces up instead. Eitherway, use a sharp, fine-toothed blade.

Milling Rabbets for the BottomThe bottom is secured to the

sides, front and back by setting it inmatching rabbets. These can be cut onthe table saw using a dado head, orwith a router using a 1/2" straight bit.For the table saw method, just set thefence and blade according to thedimensions shown in the Rabbet DetailDrawing on the next page, and makethe cuts. If you choose to go with arouter (either portable with a clamped-

QuickTip

High-density foamcushions paddle toprotect saw switch.

Attached tounderside of

extension table with

butt hinges.

Tap anywhere alongboard to turn saw off.

Table Saw Safety SwitchThis table saw safety switch issimple to make, and the onlyhardware items you’ll need aretwo 3" butt hinges. Any scraphardwood will do equally well to build the framework. Thenscrew the swinging frame to theunderside of the table and padthe “off” paddle with extra foamto ease pressure on the switch.


Toy Box Exploded View

Back Corner Detail(Top View)

2

3

43/4"

3/8"

45° miters cuton front flutedmoldings only

FlutedMoldings (Top View)

RabbetDetail(SectionView)

Front Corner Detail

(Top View)

7 81/4"

1/4"11/8" 11/8"

1

10

2

3

3

4

55

5

6

7

7

8

9

9

11

12

6

145

MATERIAL LISTT x W x L

1 Top (1) 3/4" x 21" x 40"

2 Sides (2) 3/4" x 183⁄4" x 181⁄2"

3 Front & Back (2) 3/4" x 183⁄4" x 371⁄2"

4 Bottom (1) 3/4" x 191⁄4" x 363⁄4"

5 Edge Banding (1) 3/4" x 1/4" x 238"

6 Screws (32) #6 x 11⁄2"

7 Front Fluted Moldings (4) 1/2" x 31⁄2" x 13"

8 Rear Fluted Moldings (2) 1/2" x 31⁄2" x 13"

9 Front Plinth Blocks (8) 3/4" x 33⁄4" x 3"

10 Rear Plinth Blocks (4) 3/4" x 31⁄2" x 3"

11 Lid Hinge (1) 36" Piano Hinge

12 Lid Supports (2) Rear-mount

10

3

2

3

9

9

2

10

3

2

3

9

9

2


Figure 2: Rout the flutes in your stock beforecutting it to length to ensure uniformity.

146 HOME PROJECTS

Figure 1: Form a simple rabbet at the bottom of the sides, front and back for the bottompiece. There’s no need to stop the cuts, since molding will cover the corners.

on guide, or table mounted), make eachrabbet in two passes to lessen thestrain on the router bit.

Disguising the Plywood EdgesAlthough veneered plywood is an

excellent building material, and it does a wonderful job of replicating wideboards, it has one minor drawback: The edges of a cut sheet reveal thealternating layers or plys within theboard. There are a couple of ways todeal with this. One is to apply an iron-on veneer tape, but with the usage thistoy box may see over the next severaldecades, strips of hardwood edgebanding (piece 5) would be a muchmore durable edging.

Rip enough 1/4"-thick stock tocover both the top edges of the car-cass and the outer edges of the lid.This stock should be the exact width ofthe plywood thickness. Trim it to length(create mitered corners on the lidpieces), and apply it with glue andclamps. If you’re short of clamps, youcan use 11⁄4" hardened trim nails, pre-

Set the nail heads after the glue dries,then fill and sand them.

If the trim is minutely wider thanthe plywood, make sure the outsides(appearance sides) are absolutely flush. You can belt-sand the insidefaces with 220-grit after the glue dries.Go slow: you don’t want to sandthrough the veneer.

Assembling the Box The box carcass is held together

with glue and screws driven throughsimple butt joints. Refer to the ExplodedView on page 145 to orient the partsproperly. With the bottom in place, buttthe joints together and hold them tem-porarily with clamps (or an extra pair ofhands if they’re available). As you work,make sure the carcass is square andplumb. Measure diagonally across thetop in both directions: when these meas-urements are identical, your assembly is

drilling the trim every six inches so itwon’t split (chuck one of the nails inyour drill and use it instead of a drill bit).


TOY BOX 147

QuickTip

square. Adjust clamping pressure totweak the box for squareness.

Pre-drill for the screws (pieces 6),using a bit about half the thickness ofthe screws in the second piece, and thefull thickness of the screws through thefirst piece. This will ensure the screwspull the joints tight as they are drivenhome. Be sure to countersink for the

heads so they’ll lie flush with the wood.Apply glue to both joint surfaces, set thebottom in its rabbet, and drive thescrews home.

Keep a damp cloth handy to wipeoff any excess glue. If you miss someglue spots, wait until they become rub-bery, then clean them up with a sharpchisel, using the blade as a scraper.

Adding Fluted CornersA simple molding application takes

this project from a mundane cube to anelegant toy box. We used a fluted mold-ing, created by milling a pair of largegrooves (called flutes) in one face of1/2"-thick pieces of stock (pieces 7 and8). The best way to do this is with atable-mounted router (see Figure 2),

Create Your Own Expanding MandrelsIf you like to make napkin rings and other hollow turnings, here’s a way to hold your worksecurely: cut a number of plywood discs—depending on the length of the mandrel—then threadthem on a hex-headed machine bolt and turn them to the exact inside diameter required. Nowcut discs from an old inner tube and re-assemble the mandrel as shown below. Tightening thenut squeezes the rubber discs so the mandrel expands and grips the turning. If the mandrel islonger than about 2" it will need end support. Create this by countersinking the exact center of the bolt head, and then mount a live center in the tailstock. You may find it best to draw areference line on the plywood discs so they can be re-assembled in the original order.

The washers expand as the nut is tightenedand hold your hollowed out turnings.

Mark with lineand sequencefor reassembly.


148 HOME PROJECTS

Using a Circular SawWhen cutting a full sheet of plywood into

components, lay a few 9'-long 2 X 4s on thefloor. Since the best face of the stock should face

down (the exit side of a cut is more likely tosplinter), glue thin carpet to one face ofeach of the 2x4s to protect the

plywood’s veneer. We also recommendapplying 3M-brand clear packing tape

along the path of the cut (both sides) toreduce splintering. To get a perfect cut every

time, make a jig by gluing an 8"-wide length of1/4" ply to a straightedge. Trim through this piecewith your saw against the straightedge. Until youget a new saw, that’s where your blade willalways cut. Just line up that trimmed edge withyour pencil mark and clamp the jig in place.

Clearpackingtape

When using a circularsaw, the best face shouldbe down.

Keep two 2 x 4sclose to your cut.

Using a Table SawIn this case, the best face of your ply-

wood must face up as you cut. Full sheetsshouldn’t really be handled alone on a tablesaw—you’re just a bit too far from theshut-off to be safe. And if your stock ismore than a couple of feet long, be sureto provide a solid outfeed support; rollerstands or a large outfeed table are twogood options. Take care when cutting thinsheet stock like laminate…it may slide underthe fence and go out of alignment, causingbinding on the blade. And speaking ofblades, a blade with a reverse hook angle (amelamine blade) works much better than acrosscut version on veneered panels.Score through the veneer on cross-graincuts, setting the blade at about 1/32"for the first cut, then turn the sheetover and raise the blade to about oneand a half times the thickness of thestock for your second cut.

Keep the plywood’s backedge slightly elevated as youstart the cut to prevent it from“walking up” on the blade.

When you’re on theoutfeed end, justsupport the material,don’t guide it.

Splitter

SPLINTER-FREE CUTS ON LARGE SHEET STOCK


using an inexpensive 1/4"-radius core box bit to form 1/2"flutes. Refer to the Elevation Drawing on page 145 for thedimensions, and make the cuts in two passes.

After the grooving is complete, use your table sawto create a 45° chamfer on one edge of each piece ofthe front molding. The rear moldings need not bechamfered. Now use the same saw angle to chamferone edge of each of the front plinth blocks (pieces 9).Again, since the back is flush, it’s not necessary tochamfer the rear plinth blocks (pieces 10). Glue and clamp the blocks in place, using the Exploded View for orientation. Now trim the lengths of molding to fit snuglybetween the blocks and glue and clamp them in place. Clean up any glue squeeze-out, and set the project aside to dry.

Applying a FinishThe most important step in any finish is the

preparation that goes into it. Fill all the nail holes and any minute gaps that appear in the mitered joints, then let the filler dry thoroughly. Sand the entire project with 120-, then 180-, and finally 220-grit paper. Chisel out any minor accumulations of glue in the corners and you’re ready to apply a finish. Many furniture builders like to wipe on a matching stain (in our case, medium cherry), to even out any tonal differ-ences between the plywood veneers and the solid hard-woods. This is also a great way to achieve instant aging—that magnificent patina cherry develops over the years due to

exposure to light and air.Since this toy box will receive heavy usage over the gen-

erations, we suggest applying three or four coats of non-toxicclear finish over the stain, sanding all but the final coat with400-grit wet/dry sandpaper.

Installing the HardwareAfter the finish is dry, attach the lid with a continuous

piano hinge (piece 11), pre-drilling for the screws. Pianohinges are durable, strong and will provide years of service fora reasonable price. You can rout a mortise for this in the bot-tom of the lid if you like, but it isn’t necessary. To save littlefingers from getting pinched (a real hazard with large doors orlids), install a pair of child-safe lid supports (pieces 12) whichregulate the speed at which the lid closes. Installation instruc-tions are included with this hardware.

Now all that’s left to do is to convince a houseful of boisterous kids that those scattered toys belong in their brandnew, fluted, cherry toy box when not in use. You’re on yourown for that job!

TOY BOX 149

Keep those little fingers safe with a quality support like the one usedfor this project, approved for use on toy boxes by the ConsumerProduct Safety Commission.












WJ128

Published in Woodworker’s Journal “The CompleteWoodworker: Time-Tested Projects and ProfessionalTechniques for Your Shop and Home”


Strike Up the Bandsaw


22 SHOP PROJECTS

Thrust bearingadjustment

Thrustbearing

Guide blockadjustment

Guide blockset screws

Guideblocks

Bladeguard

Strike Up the BandsawBandsaws are wonderfully quiet to operate and

don’t pose the same kickback threat as table-

saws. They’re ideal for making straight or curved

cuts, and the saw kerf creates much less airborne

dust. But if your bandsaw isn’t tuned properly, you’ll

be the one singing the blues. Here’s how to get your

saw adjusted and back on track.

A bandsaw is a tremendously versatileand useful tool—but only if it’s running well.Properly set up, it allows you to create poetryout of wood. Out of adjustment it can causevocabulary usage that would impress themost seasoned boatswain’s mate.

Tuning up your bandsaw is not a hugeundertaking. A couple of quick steps to better align and control your blade will haveyou cutting smoothly in just a few minutes.

Most modern bandsaws have a system ofthrust bearings (those little metal wheels thatthe blade’s back edge bumps into) and guideblocks that hold the blade in proper alignment.Start by unplugging the saw, then loosen theset screws that hold the guide blocks; backthem out so they no longer touch the blade.Next, turn your attention to the thrust bearings,backing them off the saw blade a 1/4" or so.Center your saw blade on the drive and idlewheels by rotating the top wheel by hand.While you turn the wheel, use the trackingcontrol to shift the blade to the crown (top ofthe arch) of whichever wheel adjusts the tracking. Then adjust the thrust bearings for-ward so they just barely touch the back edgeof the blade. Ideally, when the saw is running,your blade will just tick the thrust bearings until you start to cut; the pressure of thataction will drive the blade back to pressagainst the bearings fully.

Blocking Is the KeyWhile adjusted thrust bearings keep

the blade from moving front to back, guideblocks control blade twisting and limit side-to-side movement. If your guide blocks areshowing wear, replace them. Worn blocksruin good saw blades. The best replacementsare Cool Blocks™, which are phenolic resinguides imbedded with graphite. They aresuperior to metal or wooden guide blocks inpreventing wear and overheating. The mostimportant thing to remember in adjusting theguide blocks is that their position changeswith the size of the saw blade you are using.The blocks must be set so they capture the

MAKE A BANDSAW BOX CRITTER

Figure 1: Glue the pattern (see the PinupShop Drawings) onto stock that is thickenough to create a box section in the animal.Plan your cuts first so you don’t “cut yourselfinto a corner”. After cutting the outline of thepiece, cut out the center box section.

Figure 3: Put the side pieces away for nowand again reset the saw to the next depthof cut. Draw lines to guide your cut as youremove the waste from the box. Make theopening as large as possible to allow for thegreatest access to the box after you gluethe sides back on .

Figure 2: Reset the saw for the depth of thenext cut. Carefully slice 1/4"-thick pieces offof each side of the center box section. Holdthese cuts as straight and true as possibleas these pieces will become the sides of thesliding box.

Figure 4: Glue the sides back onto the cen-ter section. Sand the project smooth anduse a marker or 1/8" dowel of contrastingcolor to make the eyes. Apply an oil or clearfinish. Flock the inside of the box section fora finishing touch.

Tune up your bandsaw and thentest drive it on these northwoodscritter boxes.

sides of the saw blade, but theyshould not engage the saw teetheven when the blade is under cutting pressure. You also need a sharp blade of correct width tomatch the job at hand. For resaw-ing or long straight cutting opera-tions, a wider blade is exactly whatyou need. Tight curves call for narrow 1/8" or 1/4" blades. Bladetension is also important; start byadjusting the tension to the blademanufacturer’s specifications.Increase tension further if the blade deflects excessively.

Just these few steps will makea huge difference in how well yourbandsaw cuts. Attention to detailwill provide for easier cutting and a milder vocabulary.

Go Wild with Boxes!Try out your newly tuned up

bandsaw on these three bandsawboxes. They are great gifts and funto make. Set up your bandsawwith an 1/8" blade and use the full-size patterns on the Pinup ShopDrawings. Follow the steps shownin the photos at right and enjoyyour new smooth-cutting bandsaw.

STRIKE UP THE BANDSAW 23

Pinup Shop Drawings

Bandsaw Box Critters

Makethe eyes with

a permanentmarker or a

1/4"-diameter hard-wood dowel of

a complementarycolor.

Sliding Box:Line the insidewith fabric orspray flocking.

Squirrel(Side View)

Pinup Shop Drawings

Band

saw

Box

Cri

tter

s

2.

Cut

the

bac

k si

de n

ext,

right

up

to t

he t

ail.

Bac

k ou

tal

ong

the

saw

ker

f.

Don

’t fo

rget

to

finis

h th

ein

side

of

the

box

befo

resp

rayi

ng t

he f

iber

s.3

. R

e-en

ter

your

firs

tcu

t to

com

plet

e th

ebo

x an

d sl

ide

the

box

sect

ion

out

ofth

e bo

dy.

5/16

"pr

edril

led

hole

Lo

on

(Sid

e V

iew

)

1.

Cut

und

er t

he b

eak

into

the

pred

rille

d ho

le.

Spi

n th

e bi

rdar

ound

and

ret

urn

thro

ugh

the

kerf

you

just

cut

.

Bandsaw Box Critt

ersNote: S

elect or g

lue

up stock

for y

our crit-

ters that is

thick

enough to cr

eate

suffic

ient room in

side

the box for s

torage.

Porcupine

(Side V

iew)

Pinup Shop Drawings

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