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Thames Valley

Britain’s grandest river is an obvious candidate for acycling break from London – and the Thames Valley routedoesn’t disappoint.

You can’t cycle along the river all the way to Oxford. Instead, thisis a varied route that mixes up rural lanes, riverside paths, little-known bridleways and purpose-built cycle tracks to make arelaxing route to the great university city.

So is this the Thames Path?

No. The Thames Path is solely a walking route from the sourceof the river in Gloucestershire to the Thames Barrier. Most of itis classified as ’public footpath’ – bikes aren’t allowed, it’s grassor mud, and there are (lots of) stiles. (Unlike canals, theriverbanks are privately owned, and most of the rich Thameslandowners aren’t exactly bike-friendly.)

So unfortunately, you can’t cycle the Thames from source tosea. That said, you can cycle along the riverside most of the wayfrom Putney to Staines, and in Reading and Oxford.

Is this a good route from London toOxford?

It is, but not a fast one. As part of the National Cycle Network,it’s cleverly pieced together from riverside paths, country lanes,residential streets and rural tracks. Inevitably that means a fairamount of turning hither and thither – it’s not the sort of routewhere you can just put your head down and go for it.

If you want to cycle from London to Oxford in a day, this isn’t theroute for you. (We’d suggest this route instead, which at 66 mileswe think is a good compromise between speed and relaxation.)

But if you’ve got a weekend or longer, the Thames Valley routeis greatly enjoyable. Since you’re never far from a railway stationthat will take you back to Paddington, Londoners won’t need tobook accommodation along the way. The 95, largely flat, milesshould take most cyclists two or three days.

What sort of bike?

Much of the route is within the reach of a road bike with sturdytyres, or any hybrid or MTB. Cooper’s Hill, by Runnymede, andKnowl Hill, near Wargrave, are both a little rough: alternativeroad routes are possible in both cases. Peep’o’Day Lane, northof Sutton Courtenay (near Didcot), can also be rough and roadbikers would be better advised to take a longish detour onto theother bank, via Culham.

Is it suitable for a first-timer?

It’s pretty flat. Only the Reading–Wallingford section across theChilterns really taxes the muscles: we think this picturesquelength is well worth the exertion, but it’s perhaps not ideal for anovice cyclist on a heavy bike.

But if you’re looking for a flat waterside ride for your first cyclingholiday, check out the Kennet & Avon Canal instead.

How do I get there?

There are railway stations at regular intervals. From centralLondon to Staines they’re suburban services, heading intoWaterloo. From Maidenhead onwards, they’re on thePaddington–Oxford line, where you can just stash your bike inthe vestibules of the local trains. (Bikes aren’t permitted in theweekday rush-hour.) There are GWR expresses from Readingand Oxford, too, but you need to book bike spaces on them.

Between Oxford and London, there are also regular fast

coaches (the Oxford Tube and the X90) which take a limitednumber of bikes at no extra charge.

Is it signposted?

Yes: it’s National Cycle Network route 4 from London toReading, and route 5 from there to Oxford. (Route 4 continuesalong the Kennet & Avon Canal to Bath, then on to Bristol andSouth Wales.)

Where in London does it start?

NCN 4 officially starts at the Greenwich Foot Tunnel, thenthreads its way along the South Bank to Lambeth Bridge, whereit crosses to Pimlico and Chelsea – here’s the route. It’s apractical way to get through the city, but if you have the choice,we’d recommend starting at Putney. This is where the route getsleafy and (largely) leaves the busier roads behind, and it’s whereour detailed guide begins…

Putney to Staines

Getting out of London by bike is rarely easy, but this routemanages it with aplomb – by the simple tactic of staying next tothe river. You’ll see all the best of the Thames: lithe rowers,glorious houseboats, grand mansions, and the locks, weirs andbridges that keep the river in order. It’s an enormously enjoyableroute, and a great afternoon ride in its own right.

But just one mile upstream of Putney Bridge, you’ll find yourselfheading away from the river and towards Barnes. What gives?Well, although you can follow the Thames to Teddington if youlike, the signposted route takes you through Richmond Park –one of London’s cycling meccas. The broad tarmac paths acrossthis green expanse are a joy to cycle. But don’t get carried away:this is one of few places in Britain with a formal cycle speedlimit, 20mph.

The route rejoins the Thames at Teddington Lock, the tidal limitof the river, a scene of great boating interest, and the location forMonty Python’s Fish Slapping Dance. From here, it follows theriver for more or less the next 16 miles, flitting from one bank tothe other. The magnificent Hampton Court Palace is the firstlandmark, and you cycle right past on the historic Barge Walk.

The path has a firm surface throughout, though it’sunsurprisingly busy with pedestrians, so don’t expect to makefast progress. At times the path is shielded from the river bytrees, colonised by parakeets – yes, really. Thousands of thebright green birds have settled along the river, particularlybetween Kingston and Walton. The Weir pub, by Sunbury Lock,is popular with cyclists.

The route crosses onto the north bank at Weybridge. You canfollow a shared-use pavement route if you like, but it’s muchmore enjoyable to cross on the little Shepperton Ferry, whichoperates until 5.30pm every day and welcomes cyclists. It runsevery quarter-hour, costs just £3, and you summon it with a bell.From here, a short road section takes you back to the river forthe run into Staines.

Staines to Reading

That’s it for the Thames, pretty much. You’ll meet the river againbefore Oxford, but there are few long riverside paths of the sortenjoyed downstream of Staines: it’s definitely the Thames Valleyroute from here, not the Thames Path. That means occasionalhills, true, but also a more varied cycling experience.

Staines is soon dispensed with via some forgettable roadsidepaths, before the sharp climb up Cooper’s Hill on an unsurfacedlane. There’s a reason for the off-road diversion: this isRunnymede, where Magna Carta was sealed, where memorialscommemorate the Commonwealth air forces and John FKennedy, and where, in 1852, the last duel in England tookplace.

Enjoyable quiet lanes take you through Windsor Great Park,passing the quaint gatehouses and post office. A gravelled pathruns alongside the cavalry exercise ground, leading into thethoroughly touristy town of Windsor. It’s not always tasteful –some rather cruelly characterise it as Skegness-on-Thames. Butlift your eyes above the crowds and you’ll see much to admire:the mighty riverside castle, the Georgian frontages, and the fineroad and rail bridges.

Still, it’s no offence to say that the best thing about Windsor isthe road out. This is a particularly lovely stretch of route, runningacross meadows to little Boveney and its 12th century church.Eton College’s colossal rowing lake leads to the frightfully well-to-do Bray, location of Heston Blumenthal’s famous Fat Duckrestaurant.

The winding route through Maidenhead is less distinguished,but after three miles you’re back out in open countryside. Fromhere, the route gently ambles to the Thameside village ofWargrave along country lanes, cycleways and unsurfacedpaths. It has a surprisingly remote, agricultural air for the heartof prosperous Berkshire.

A utilitarian roadside cycleway runs for four miles to the edge ofReading where, finally, we rejoin the Thames. The confluencewith the Kennet, underneath the clatter of the railway bridge, is alandmark on the National Cycle Network. Turn left for Bristol,Cardiff and St David’s, or straight on for Birmingham, Chester,Holyhead… and, first of all, Oxford.

Reading to Wallingford

Reading’s riverside doesn’t have the big-money allure of Waltonor Shepperton, but Caversham Lock and the buzz of boats backand forth provide a pleasant way to get reacquainted with theThames. Briefly, that is – you won’t see the river for another 14miles.

From Reading to Wallingford, the route goes over the ChilternHills on country lanes. All winding single-track roads with treesencroaching on either side, this is great cycling country. As wellas NCN 5 taking a slightly indirect course, there’s a signpostedChiltern Cycleway, plus designated ‘Quiet Lanes’ where cyclistsand walkers have priority.

The route climbs from 50m at Reading to 200m nearCheckendon, then back down again to the Thames atWallingford. You’ll work up a thirst on the ascent, but happily, thisis an exemplary route for pub-goers: the Reformation atGallowstree Common, the Cherry Tree at Stoke Row, and theBlack Tree at Checkendon, run by the same family for 110 years.Just off the route is the secluded King William IV at Ipsden –reason enough to limit your mileage this day!

Wallingford to Oxford

Wallingford is a charming and prosperous Thames town, well-heeled enough to have its own Waitrose, but still supportingindependent shops on the High Street along which you’ll ride.The old Great Western branch line to the town is now apreserved steam railway, though if you do need to get to nearbyCholsey station you’ll find it easier to cycle the three miles.

There are precious few quiet lanes in this stretch of the ThamesValley, and the route is chosen to make best use of them – evenif that does mean climbing the marvellously named WittenhamClumps, landmark chalk hills with fine views of the Thames andthe abbey town of Dorchester. Poor old Didcot, four miles on,can’t match these scenic heights, but you can shortcut the two-mile route via Didcot Parkway station by crossing the railwayfootbridge just after the road underpass.

From here to the outskirts of Oxford, the route is a cleverpatchwork of cycleways, unpaved paths and residential roads.The surface is passable on a road bike, but more comfortable ona hybrid or similar. The first bumpy path delivers you past Didcotpower station, where just three of the six cooling towers are leftstanding following detonation in 2014.

Abingdon is a likeable market town, formerly the capital ofBerkshire until this part of the county was annexed byOxfordshire. You’ll pass the Thames on a bridge marked ‘Wilts &Berks Canal’, remembering the old canal that once ran toSwindon and on towards Bath. The town centre is a little traffic-clogged, but Abbey Close and the riverside park are the idealplace for a coffee and cake stop.

A winding path through a riverside nature reserve leads you outof the town. At Kennington, three miles on, a volunteer-constructed path by the mainline railway brings you to the edgeof Oxford safe from the over-busy roads above.

There are two routes into Oxford. The official route follows tidyresidential streets through the south of the city, but if you’re notin a hurry, follow the riverside path for the best views of thedreaming spires. The Iffley Farmhouse, by Iffley Lock, is asplendidly dishevelled pub from which to watch river life. AfterFolly Bridge (the old one with the island), cross on the narrowfootbridge to rejoin the main route which takes you into the citycentre.

Oxford is one of Britain’s cycling cities, with cyclists everywhere,plentiful bike parking, cycle cafés, and bike lanes of admittedlyvariable quality. Our detailed guide has more info on the bestroutes through town.

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