Textile Printing Ashish1
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Transcript of Textile Printing Ashish1
A JOURNEY INTO
THE WORLD OF
PRINTING
By:- Ashish kumar gupta
Textile printing is an ancient art form found on cloth in Egyptian tombs dating to about 5000B.C. Greek fabrics dating from the 4th century B.C. have also been found. Block prints were first seen imported from India to the Mediterranean in 5th C B.C.
During the renaissance, Indian chintz was imported to Europe, where it became popular and was imitated. France became a leading centre of this type of cloth production during that time. Stencil work, a highly developed form of printing from Japan was another early discovery of applying pattern to fabric.
• Printing can also be defined as localized dyeing.
• Defined as the application of dye or pigment in a different pattern on the fabric and by subsequent after treatment of fixing the dye or pigment to get a particular design.
• Sometimes a printed fabric can be identified by looking at the back side of fabric where there is no design or color as face side.
• In cotton, dyes like vat, reactive are used
• In manmade, dyes like disperse and cationic are used
DIFFERENT STYLES OF
PRINTING
There are three basic approaches to printing
a color on a fabric
1. DIRECT PRINTING
2. DISCHARGE PRINTING
3. RESIST PRINTING
DIRECT PRINTING
• In this type of printing dye is applied onto
the fabric by carved block, stencil,
screen, engraved roller etc.
• The dye is imprinted on the fabric in
paste form and any desired pattern may
be produced
• Example:-Block Printing, Roller Printing,
Screen Printing etc.
DISCHARGE PRINTING
• Discharge Printing is also called Extract Printing. This is a
method of applying a design to dyed fabric by printing a
color-destroying agent, such as chlorine or hydrosulfite, to
bleach out a white or light pattern on the darker coloured
ground.
• In this method the fabric is dyed and then printed with a
chemical that will destroy the color in designed areas.
• Sometimes the base color is removed and another color
printed in its place.
• A dye impervious to the bleaching agent is combined with
it, producing a colored design instead of white on the dyed
ground.
RESIST PRINTING
• In this method bleached fabric are printed
with a resist paste ( a resinous substance
that cannot be penetrated when the fabric
is immersed in a dye ).
• The dye will only affect only the parts that
are not covered by the resist paste .
• After the fabric has passed through a
subsequent dyeing process the resist
paste is removed, leaving a pattern on a
dark background
DIFFERENT TYPES OF
PRINTING
• BLOCK PRINTING
• ROLLER PRINTING
• SCREEN PRINTING
• FLAT-SCREEN PRINTING
• ROTARY PRINTING
• TRANSFER PRINTING
• STENCIL PRINTING
• DIGITAL PRINTING
• BATIK PRINTING
• TIE & DYE
BLOCK PRINTING
• It is the oldest and simplest way of printing
• In this method a wooden block with a raised pattern on the surface was dipped into the printing colorant and then pressed face down on to fabric.
• The desired pattern was obtained by repeating the process using different colors.
• Generally the wooden block is carved out of hand
• Printing is done manually
BLOCK PRINTING
BLOCK PRINTING
BLOCK PRINTING
BLOCK PRINTING
ADVANTAGES
1. Simple method of
printing
2. No expensive
equipment required
3. No limitation in repeat
of size of style
4. Prints produced have
great decorative value
and stamp of
craftsmanship
DISADVANTAGES
1. Involves much
manual work
2. Method is slow and
therefore low output
3. Good skilled labors
needed for multi color
design
4. Fine and delicate
designs hard to
produce
ROLLER PRINTING
• It is the machine method of printing
designs on cloths by engraved rollers.
• The design is engraved on the surface of a
metal roller, to which dye is applied, and
the excess is scraped off the roller's
surface, leaving dye in the engraved
sections. When it rolls across the fabric,
the dye on the roller transfers to the fabric.
Important features and advantages
• Requires long production runs of same pattern (10000 yds)
• Best method for fine line patterns and paisley prints.
• Can produce half tones and fall on effects.
• Can print woven fabrics, knitted fabrics require special handling.
• Because of the high quality it can achieve, roller printing is the most appealing method for printing designer and fashion apparel fabrics.
Diagram of roller printing m/c
ROLLER PRINTING M/C
ROLLER PRINTING
ROLLER PRINTINGADVANTAGES
1. Large quantities of fabric at the rate of 914-3658m per hour can be printed.
2. Faulty joints or joint marks are absent.
3. Fine sharp outlines and good prints can be obtained which is difficult to get in block printing.
DISADVANTAGES
1. Not economical for short run of fabrics.
2. Difficult to produce blotch designs.
3. Repeat of design limited to the size of the rollers.
4. Setup cost of roller printing m/c is high
STENCIL PRINTING
• It is one of the oldest way of printing.
• In it color is applied to the fabric by
brushing or spraying the interstices of a
pattern cut out from a flat sheet of metal or
waterproof paper or plastic sheet or
laminated sheet.
• A stencil is prepared by cutting out a
design from a flat sheet of paper, metal, or
plastic.
A simple stencil design
Example of stencil printing
STENCIL PRINTING
• ADVANTAGES
1. Simple and cost
effective.
2. Stencils can be
made rapidly and
can be used for
small orders.
3. Color combination is
good in it.
• DISADVANTAGES
1. Good design is
difficult to obtain.
2. Process is laborious.
3. Not suitable for large
scale production.
SCREEN PRINTING
• It involves the application of the printing
paste through a fine screen placed in
contact with the fabric to be printed.
• A design is created in reverse on the
screen by blocking areas of the screen
with a material such as an opaque paint.
• The screen is then placed over the fabric
and the printing paste is forced through
the open areas of the screen using a
flexible synthetic rubber or steel blade
known as a squeegee.
PROCESS OF SCREEN PRITING
SCREEN PAPER SIDE SCREEN SQUEEZE SIDE
ORIGINAL PRINT PRINT ON FABRIC
SCREEN PRINTING
• ADVANTAGES
1. Simple and cost
effective.
2. Quick pattern
making
3. 16 colors can be
used in a design.
4. Sharp lines and
features easily
produced.
• DISADVANTAGES
1. For high production
large no. of tables
required.
2. Delicate shading
difficult to obtain.
3. Screen clogging
may be there in fine
areas.
FLAT-SCREEN PRINTING
• It is the advanced version of screen
printing by using automatic m/c to do work
• It consists of printing table, conveyor belt,
number of screens, mechanism to print on
the fabric, etc.
• First the fabric is brought on the printing
table through a feeding arrangement and it
is gummed to the conveyor belt on the
table
• Conveyor brings fabric periodically under
screen and stops while the screen are
lowered on the required parts of the fabric.
• Printing paste is distributed throughout the
full length of the screen.
• The squeeze is pressed to the screen .
• One or more strokes of the squeeze
ensure simultaneous printing of the pattern
by the common action of all screens which
applies printing paste as required by the
color in the design.
FLAT-SCREEN PRINTING M/C
FLAT SCREEN PRINTING
• ADVANTAGES
1. Greater production
than manual screen
printing
2. Printing with
different repeat can
be made easily
3. Good print is
obtained
• DISADVANTAGES
1. A big setup required
for more number of
screens
2. Prints with more
colors may not be
possible
3. Printing paste not
evenly controlled
Rotary Screen
• In rotary screen printing, tubular screens rotate at the same velocity as the fabric.
• Print paste distributed inside the tubular screen is forced into the fabric as it is pressed between the screen and a printing blanket (a continuous rubber belt).
• Most knit fabric is printed by the rotary screen method, because it does not stress (pull or stretch) the fabric during the process.
• Twenty or more colours can be printed at the same time.
• The process is much quicker and more efficient than flat
screen printing .
Rotary Screen
Important Features and Advantages• Over 40 inch repeat size possible; larger than roller printing, but
smaller than flat screen.
• Lengthwise stripe effect possible.
• Fall on designs possible. Adaptable to all woven & knitted constructions.
• Clear and brighter colors than on roller prints.
• Excellent color definitions, but less than flat screen methods.
• Rapid change over of design possible.
• Efficient for long runs and moderately small (1000yds) runs.
Limitations and Disadvantages
• Fine line paisley prints not possible.
• Screen do not last as long as rollers.
Working of rotary screen printing
m/c
A rotary screen printing m/c
Feeding of color to rollers
TRANSFER PRINTING
• It is a indirect method of printing in which
dyes are transferred from paper to a
thermoplastic fabric under controlled
conditions of temperature, time and pressure.
• The image is first engraved on a copper
plate.
• Then pigment is applied on these plates.
• The image is then transferred to a piece of
paper, with a layer of glue applied .
• This is then placed on the fabric and heat and
pressure applied which fixes the print onto
fabric.
Process of transfer printing
Important Features and Advantages
• Produces bright, sharp, clear fine line designs.
• Ability to print cut garment parts and small items.
• Adaptable to long and short yardages runs.
• Rapid pattern changeover possible.
• Simple, low investment installation possible.
• Steamers washers, dryers etc not required.
• Fewest seconds of all print process.
• Heat setting also accomplished.
TRANSFER PRINTING
• ADVANTAGES
1. Operation is simple
and no expensive
m/c is required.
2. No after treatment of
fabric required
3. Print on fabric is of
excellent quality
• DISADVANTAGES
1. Process applicable
to synthetic fabric
like polyester .
2. Color range is
limited.
3. Cost of printed
paper high.
4. Not economical for
small orders.
Heat transfer
Limitations and Disadvantages
• Limited to fabrics having minimum 50% manmade fibers. Cellulosic and protein (100%) fibers can not be printed.
RESIST PRINTING
• There are two types of resist printing
• BATIK PRINTING
• TIE & DIE PRINTING
BATIK PRINTING
• Originated on island of Java and is a cottage based industry.
• Batik is derived from word “AMBATIK”
• The resist-dyeing process, whereby designs are made with wax on a fabric which is subsequently immersed in a dye to absorb the color on the unwaxed portions, is known as batik printing.
• Special feature is the fine lines of color running irregularly across the fabric.
BATIK PRINTING
• ADVANTAGES
• Gives a good artistic
effect
• Cheap printing
• Greater artistic
design
• Fabric has a rich
and graceful
appearance
• DISADVANTAGES
• Laborious
• Time taking
• Cracking effect
• Dye should be
applied at low
temperature than
wax.
TIE & DYE
• It is same as that of batik printing but here
the dye is resisted by knots that are tied in
the cloth before it is immersed in dye bath.
• The outside of the knotted portion is dyed,
but inside is not penetrated if the knot is
firmly tied.
• This gives a characteristic blurred or
mottled effect .
TIE & DYE
• ADVANTAGE
• Interesting design
created on fabric
• No m/c cost is there
• DISADVANTAGE
• Costly
• Laborious
• Time taking
• Skilled labour
required
DIGITAL PRINTING
• It is the more advanced type of printing.
• This includes :-
Jet spray printing
Electrostatic printing
Photo printing
Differential printing
JET SPRAYING MACHINE• Designs are imparted to fabrics by spraying colors in a controlled
manner through nozzles.
ELECTROSTATIC PRINTING
M/C• Using a process where toner sticks to a charged drum and is
thermally fused on to a page - similar to photocopying - electrostatic
printing is good for very short printing runs.
• Electrostatic printing involves creating an image by electrostatically
charging areas of a special drum. As a result, the drum attracts a dry
or liquid toner & the toner is fused to the fabric.
• Electrostatic printing is a process of printing without contact, without
a type form, and without ink.
Mechanism
ELECTROSTATIC PRINTING M/C
PHOTO PRINTING M/C
Pigment Print
• Pigment Prints are direct prints made with pigments.
• The process is frequently called dry printing as distinguished from wet printing.
• The pigment area will be slightly stiffer and perhaps a bit thicker than the non print area.
• Pigment prints are the least costly type of print.
• Pigment produce bright, rich colors, and are applied to all textile fibers.
• It has good to excellent fastness to light and dry cleaning.
Identification of Pigment Prints
• Comparing the differences in fabric stiffness
between a design printed portion and a non-
printed portion of the same fabric.
• The pigment print area will be slightly stiffer and
a bit thicker than the non-print area.
• Deep shades are stiffer than light shades.
Blotch Prints
• Background has been obtained by printing rather than piece dyeing; Direct Print; The print and pattern design colour are printed on to a white fabric in one printing operation; imitates discharge or resist print effects.
• Identification:
• The blotch print background colour is lighter on backside of the fabric.
• Possibilities of large background colour areas of the print are not covered with full depth of colours; precision control is necessary; if pigment prints, fabrics very often result in objectionable stiff hand.
Flock Printing
• Tiny particles of fibers (1/10”- ¼”) are made to adhere to a fabric surface in according to a particular design; printing the design with adhesive; exposing the fiber flock to the fabric.
• There are two methods of adhering the flock to the adhesive treated fabric surface:
• Mechanical Flocking.
• Electrostatic Flocking
Warp Prints
• Warp prints involve printing the warp yarns of a fabric before it is placed on the loom for weaving, then the fabric is woven with a solid color weft usually white or contrast color.
• The result is a soft, shadowy design on the fabric; producing warp prints require careful and skilled labor; these prints are found almost exclusively on high quality and expensive fabrics.
Burn-out Prints
• Printing with chemical substance (sulfuric acid)
that will destroy the fiber in the pattern design
print area;
• Fabrics are used in low-cost summer blouses
and cotton lingerie;
• Interesting designs can be created with blends.
Duplex Prints
• Fabrics in which both sides of the fabric
have been printed;
• Imitate Jacquard & dobby woven design
fabric;
• Very expensive printing
Engineering Prints
• Prints that have two or more distinct designs,
• Each located in separate areas of the fabric, and each designed to become a specific part of the garment;
• Printed by hand screen or heat transfer method.
PRINTS
CLASSICAL
Also known as ethnic or traditional print. In
this print classical motifs or traditional
collections are used such as mango,
elephant with the chariots, old musical
instruments etc. the culture of any
particular place can also be considered
such as tie and dye , batik, block of
Rajasthan etc
FLORAL PRINT
It has the print of varieties of flower either
in bunch or single spotted , huge or small
, combination of leaves and other addings.
Color combination is very important.
STRIPES
• PIN STRIPES
• ZIGZAG STRIPES
• SPIRAL STRIPES
• ZEBRA STRIPES
• DIAGONAL STRIPES
• HORIZONTAL STRIPES
• VERTICAL STRIPES
• CURVED STRIPES
• TOOTHPASTE STRIPES
• LAMP POST STRIPES
PIN STRIPES
• THESE ARE STRIPES WHICH IS
PRINTED LINES AT HAIRY DISTANCE
AND MOSTLY TWO OR THREE
COLORS ARE USED INCLUDING THE
BACKGROUND.
ZIGZAG STRIPES
• IT CAN COME IN HORIZONTAL OR
VERTICAL BUT IN THE SHAPE OF
ZIGZAG.
SPIRAL STRIPES
• THE PRINT LOOKS LIKE A STRETCHED
SPRING AT MEDIUM PRESSURE, THIS
CAN EITHER BE VERTICAL OR
HORIZONTAL.
CURVED STRIPES
• THIS PRINT HAS THE EFFECT OF A
WAVE FOLLOWED EITHER
VERTICAL/HORIZONTAL.
TOOTHPASTE STRIPE
• THIS STRIPE CAN BE MULTICOLORED
AND THE DISTANCE CAN VARY BUT
THE WIDTH OF EACH STRIPE SHOULD
BE RANGING FROM 0.5-1.5CMS THE
WIDTH OF THE TOOTHPASTE.
ZEBRA STRIPES
• IN THIS STRIPES ONLY TWO COLORS
ARE USED AND MOSTLY NEUTRAL
COLORED SCHEME IS SEEN .
• THESE STRIPES ARE PLACED AT
EQUIDISTANCE.
• THE WIDTH OF EACH STRIPE WILL
NOT BE MORE THAN 1.0CM
LAMP POST STRIPE
• THE WIDTH STARTS FROM 3-5CM.
• IT CAN BE COMPOUND STRIPES.
• THE PRINT HAS RUNNING LINES OF
FIXED WIDTH.
CHECK PRINTS
• THESE ARE GOT BY INTERSECTING
HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL LINES
AT 90 DEG ANGLES.
• IT IS OF 4 – TYPES
• PLAIDS
• MADRAS CHECK
• BOMBAY CHECK
• OXFORD CHECK
PLAIDS
• PLAIDS ARE SIMPLE CHECK WHERE
ALL THE SQUARES ARE OF EQUAL
SIZE AND IT HAS THE COMBINATION
OF ANY TWO COLORS WHICH ARE
MOSTLY USED FOR SCHOOL
UNIFORMS.
• LOOKS LIKE THE CHECKS IN A CHESS
BOARD
MADRAS CHECK
• IT HAS GOT NO MORE THAN 2 OR 3
VERTICAL STRIPES WITH
EQUAL(SINGLE) HORIZONTAL
STRIPES.
• COLORS USED BLUE, RED, ORANGE,
ETC
• USED FOR LUNGIS, BURMUDAS AND
COATS
BOMBAY CHECKS
• THESE CHECKS ARE MOSTLY
AVAILABLE IN LIGHT COLORS.
• HERE NO PROPER NUMBER OF
STRIPES CAN BE COUNTED EITHER
HORIZONTALLY OR VERTICALLY BUT
STRIPES ARE VERY CLOSELY
PRINTED
• USED IN SHIRTS
OXFORD CHECK
• THIS IS FOUND IN DARK COLORS WITH WHITE COMBINATION.
• HERE THE STRIPES PRINTED HORIZONTALLY WILL BE EQUAL TO THE STRIPES PRINTED VERTICALLY AND AT EQUAL THICKNESS PLACED AT EQUIDISTANCE
• USED IN UNIFORMS, MAT, BED COVERS, DRAPERIES ETC
DOTS
• THESE ARE SPOTS EITHER DESIGNED
OR PLAIN IN DIFFERENT COLORS
• 3 – TYPES
• BIG DOTS(3-10CM)
• SMALL DOTS(PIN- 1.5CM)
• POLKA DOTS(MIXTURE OF ABOVE)
GEOMETRICAL PRINTS
• THIS IS THE PRINT WHERE ALL THE
GEOMETRICAL INSTRUMENT DESIGNS
ARE CREATED AND THE
MATHEMATICAL SIGNS ARE USED
SUCH AS PLUS, MINUS,
MULTIPLICATION DIVISION ETC.
DIRECTIONAL PRINTS
• ANY PRINT WHICH IS DESIGNED
DIRECTIONALLY EITHER HORIZONTAL,
VERTICAL OR DIAGONAL IS CALLED
THE DIRECTIONAL PRINTS.
• ITS FEATURE IS TO FOLLOW THE
DIRECTION OF THE FIRST ONE.
• USED IN EGYPTIAN DRESS
SELF PRINTS
• ANY DESIGN WHICH HAS TO BE
PRINTED SHOULD BE OF THE SAME
SHADES OF THE BACKGROUND
COLOR.
• RUBBER PRINT
COMPUTERISED PRINT
• THE DESIGN IS TAKEN FROM
COMPUTER GRAPHIC DESIGN AND
VIDEO GAMES .
• CAN BE USED FOR CHILDREN AND
TEENAGERS.
WILD PRINT
• THE EFFECT OF FOREST WITH OR
WITHOUT ANIMALS, NATURE ARE
USED IN THIS PRINT
• MOSTLY DULL COLORS ARE USED.
ANIMAL PRINT
• THE IMPORTANCE IS GIVEN TO THE
SKIN TEXTURE OF THE ANIMALS AND
THEIR PRINTS SUCH AS ZEBRA,
CHEETAH, TIGER, DEER, SNAKE ETC
ABSTRACT PRINT
• THIS PRINT IS MADE USING
IRREGULAR SHAPES WITH MATCHING
COLOR SCHEME.
NUMERICAL PRINT
• HERE THE NUMBER 0-9 ARE USED.
• SOME TIMES WITH OR WITHOUT
MATHEMATICAL SIGNS
ALPHABETICAL PRINTS
• THIS PRINT IS MADE USING
ALPHABETS, WORDINGS ETC
• EG: NEWSPAPER PRINT
CHILDREN PRINT
• THE PRINT CONSISTS OF DESIGNS
WHICH CAN EMPHASIZE THE
CHILDREN”S MOOD SUCH AS
CARTOONS, CHOCLATES, FRUITS, ICE
CREAM ETC
PHOTO PRINT
• THE PHOTOS OF THE FAMOUS STARS,
POP SINGERS, OLD CARS ETC ARE
PRINTED ON T-SHIRTS WHICH ARE
CALLED PHOTOPRINT
MARBLE PRINT
• THIS PRINT LOOKS LIKE A MARBLE
FINISH