I will refer to the hook shank like Norman Marsh’s book ‘Trout stream insects of New Zealand’; in points from 1 – 10

#2) #12 Creeper: “Harry’s Creeper”. Hook: B12 (equivalent tiemco) Tungsten: 3.2mm black or gunmetal/black Thread: 8/0 Black Abdomen dubbing: Natural Seal or similar Abdomen upper: Peacock hurl Rib: 12lb monofilament Wing cases: Thin Skin Mottled Bustard Natural Legs: Medium White Brush Fibers (I can supply if needed – not on market) Tails and antennae: X-small round Rubber Legs (Black) Thorax and head dubbing: Black Synthetic 1) Secure tungsten bead at 8 on the on the hook shank by wrapping thread over the top of the bead, and not underneath. 2) Bring thread to the tail and tie in the tails ‘rubber legs’, at the base of the hook shank around 2. 3) Tie down the ribbing, I place it in the tungsten slot and bring it down to point 2 on the hook shank underneath and in line the tails. 4) Tie on 5 or 6 peacock hurls on top of the hook shank down to and in line with the tails, make sure you attach the smaller ends down to get a slight tapered effect when you eventually tie down. 5) Create a dubbing loop at point 3 on the hook shank by tying over the original thread. Make sure it is about 10cm long give or take. 6) Dub on authentic seals fur, or similar, evenly inside of dubbing loop, then spin the dubbing, and wrap around abdomen, tying it off at 6 on the hook shank. 7) Bring peacock fibers over the top of dubbing and tie down at 6. 8) Rib evenly with 5 turns of 12lb monofilament and tie down at 6. 9) Attach legs at 6. 10) Attach 1st wing case. (to get shape cut small cube of thin skin, and then trim, with curved nail scissors to create 2 heart like shapes, and one shape like a ‘bomb’ for the top end of the fly.

11) Dub with seals fur up to tungsten bead, leaving a tiny space to tie down. 12) Attach 2nd brush fiber just behind tungsten bead. 13) Attach 2nd wing case (slightly larger) at same spot. 14) Tie on ‘bomb’ shaped thin skin facing towards the tail of the fly, make sure the small slits in the thin skin when pulled forward are EXACTLY level with the start of the hook eye (point 10). 15) Dub a small amount of black dubbing (synthetic), behind the tungsten bead, and the bring thread over the top of the tungsten bead. 16) Tie in the 3rd brush fibre, directly in front of tungsten bead. 17) Bring forward the thin skin and tie down so that the slits are in line with the hook eye.

18) Tie in Antennae (Rubber Legs), either side of hook eye, making sure they do not ‘fold back’. 19. Dub on black synthetic to create a small head. 20. Bring thin skin back to point 9 and whip finish once or twice, with cement applied to thread. 21. Bend brush legs with hot needle, trim and then apply black marker on tips and bends to make the legs spotted. (We can manufacture legs of this nature for retail sale as well???? – can talk) 22. Trim tails and antennae

NOTE: This fly can also be tied in sizes #12 - # 4, all methods are the same, just add lead behind tungsten on larger flies to create bulk. And use 6/0 thread on size #6 and larger.