Tanzer-Argentina-2012

8/2/2019 Tanzer-Argentina-2012

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A C H A V A L F E R R E R

Finca Mirador Mendoza 2009($120) (from 70+-year-old malbec vines planted at 2,400 feet; 14 hectoliters per hectare): Good full ruby-red. Vinous aromas of dark berries, licorice, espresso and minerals lifted by violet and rose petal

nuances; aeration brought captivating spicy perfume. Densely packed and youthfully imploded, and not quite as black in the mouth as the nose suggests. Penetrating, aromatic flavors of red berries and

rose petal convey an almost pinot-like vibrancy. Offers a lovely light touch but has a firm spine for long aging.

94(+?)

Priced from: 88.99

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Finca Altamira Mendoza 2009($120) (from 80+-year-old malbec vines planted at 3,400 feet, and a yield of just 12 hectoliters per hec tare): Saturated, bright medium ruby. Deep, pure aromas of blackberry, violet, minerals and bitter

chocolate complicated by a loamy nuance. Suave and intense but youthfully imploded today; not at all a thick style even if it's utterly seamless from day one. Strong acidity spine gives this infant a

powerful backbone for aging, but there's little in the way of early sweetness today. After three days in the recorked bottle, this was an essence of blackberry, showing almost painful fruit intensity and

remaining remarkably fresh. A superb cellaring candidate.

94(+?)

Priced from: 119.99

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Finca Bella Vista Mendoza 2009($120) (90+-year-old vines grown at 3,100 feet; 14 h/h; all three of these high-end malbecs spent 15 months in all-new French oak): Deep, bright ruby. Brooding aromas of blackberry, tar, licorice, violet

and bitter chocolate. Dense, suave and vibrant, with superb inner-mouth energy to the black fruit, licorice and violet flavors. Really beautifully integrated acidity shows an almost peppery pungency.

Finishes very long and lively, with noble, fine-grained tannins and a palate-saturating impression of extract.

93

Priced from: 119.99

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Quimera Mendoza 2009(a blend of 31% malbec, 27% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot, 18% cabernet franc and 4% petit verdot; 40% new French oak): Ruby-red. Aromas of black raspberry, crushed cherry, caraway seed,

graphite and licorice. Juicy and tightly wound, with an almost tart quality to the blackberry and cranberry fruit. Very young and structured but bound-up today. Finishes with good floral lift and plenty of

acidity. This will need time in the cellar to loosen up and gain in nuance.

90(+?)

Priced from: 31.99

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Malbec Mendoza 2010($24) Medium red-ruby. Blueberry, blackberry, menthol and bitter chocolate on the nose. Juicy, intense and fine-grained, with a restrained sweetness and enticing peppery lift to the flavors of dark berries,

violet, licorice and game. This reminded me in weight and flavor of a Saint-Joseph. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins and good savory persistence.

89

Priced from: 15.98

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A D A G I O

Malbec Reserve Mendoza 2008($16) Good saturated ruby-red. Black fruits, coffee and chocolate on the nose, complicated by floral and earth tones. Bright and fresh if rather oaky, with good spicy lift and firm acidity to the flavors of ripe

blackberry and bitter chocolate. Boasts good stuffing but finishes a bit ungiving, with firm tannins and lingering notes of herbs and menthol.

88

A G O S T I N O F A M I L I A

Agostino Familia Mendoza 2008($20) (a blend of 40% malbec, 30% petit verdot and 15% each cabernet sauvignon and syrah): Good red-ruby. Blackberry, cassis, violet, bitter chocolate and espresso on the nose. Sweet on entry, then

suave and lively, with firm acids framing the restrained dark berry and fresh herb flavors. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins and a lightly medicinal quality. Turned a bit dry with time in the glass.

87

A L A M O S

Malbec Seleccion Mendoza 2009($20) Good deep, full ruby. Violet, blackberry and a full load of chocolatey, nutty oak on the nose and palate. Very ripe, chocolatey malbec with a pronounced sweetness suggesting some residual sugar.

Finishes chocolatey and broad, with soft tannins. Plenty of fruit here, but some tasters will find it too sweet.

89

Priced from: 15.99

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Malbec Mendoza 2010($13) Red-ruby. Sexy aromas of dark berries, coffee and mellow oak. Silky, sweet and generous, with firm acidity that becomes a bit more pronounced as the wine opens in the glass. Finishes with sweet

tannins and a hint of greenness.

87

Priced from: 7.98

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Malbec Mendoza 2008($22) Bright medium red-ruby. Blackberry, licorice and enticing oak notes on the nose. Suave, sweet and nicely concentrated, with lush, seamless flavors of black fruits, spices and violet. Generous without

being overly sweet. The broad finish features substantial dusty, even tannins and sneaky persistence to the flavors of bitter chocolate and dark berries. Classy juice.

90

Gran Reserva Red Wine Mendoza 2008($36) (50% malbec, 20% each cabernet sauvignon and syrah, and 10% merlot): Bright ruby-red. Cassis, blackberry and licorice on the nose. Chewy, saline and concentrated, but with a heavily extracted

quality to the flavors of cassis and spicy oak. The strong wood element gives a dry edge to the tannins. I'd like to have seen this material vinified and aged with a lighter hand.

87

Bonarda Mendoza 2008($24) Full red-ruby. Currant, mocha and cedary, chocolatey oak on the nose. Nicel y concentrated and pliant, with notes of currant, game, truffle and exotic oak. Good sweetness balanced by bright, slightly

elevated acidity. Finishes a tad spiky but there's good material here.


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87

A L P A M A N T A

Malbec Estate Mendoza 2009($24) Red-ruby. Musky, reduced nose offers currant, coffee and sweet oak notes of mocha and milk chocolate. Silky and sexy but not overly sweet, with cassis and violet flavors complicated by earth and

herb nuances. Finishes quite broad and long, with suave tannins that should not get in the way of enjoying this wine early.

90

A L T A V I S T A

Torrontes Premium Salta 2011($16) Pale, bright straw-yellow. White flowers and a whiff of curry powder on the nose. Supple, tactile and lightly saline, with a distinctly elegant quality to the subtle tropical fruit and ginger flavors. Bright,

harmonious acidity carries the sappy, spicy finish. Serious torrontes with excellent texture and depth.

90

Malbec Premium Mendoza 2010($17) (aged 12 months in an 80/20 blend of French and American barrels): Bright red-ruby. Blackberry and licorice aromas accented by herbs and spices. Supple, savory and fine-grained, with a nicely

restrained sweetness. The tannins are well integrated but the wine's fruit is still a bit locked-up today and in need of a year or two of bottle aging. Firm and persistent on the finish.

88(+?)?

A L T A M I R A

Altamira Navigato Family Selection Grand Reserve Uco Valley 2008($65) (40% merlot and 30% each cabernet sauvignon and malbec; aged for 18 months in new French oak; concentrated via a 30% saignee): Good bright ruby-red. Blackcurrant, minerals and menthol on

the nose. Dense and sweet but youthfully imploded, conveying an impression of strong extraction and superb energy. This began chewy and quite tannic but grew richer as it opened in the glass, showing a

more pliant texture and more obvious depth. Very long and lively on the aftertaste.92

Malbec Grand Reserve Valle De Uco 2008($45) (24 months in French oak; from a single block of 61-year-old vines): Bright, deep medium ruby. High-pitched, precise aromas of blackberry, violet, menthol and licorice. Youthfully tight and

unforthcoming but at the same time pliant, with subdued but very pure flavors of black fruits, minerals and bitter chocolate. Less sweet than the 2009 reserve malbec but shows terrific structure and drive.

Finishes with serious tannic grip. Lay this one down. 91(+?)

Malbec Reserve Mendoza 2009

($35) (Attilio Pagli is the consulting winemaker here; 15.2% alcohol with a moderate 3.5 pH): Clear ruby. Musky blueberry, blackberry, cassis and violet on the nose, with complicating mineral and whitepepper nuances. Supple, sweet and pliant, with excellent energy and lift to the black fruit and spice flavors. Very sexy and expressive already. Finishes with strong but smooth tannins and excellent subtle

persistence. This spent 18 months in French oak, one-third new.91

A L T O C E D R O

Malbec Ano Cero Mendoza 2011($20) Bright medium red-ruby. Lovely floral aromas of blackberry and licorice. Juicy, nicely delineated and light on its feet, with spicy acidity lifting the black fruit flavors. Plenty of flavor and personality

here. Finishes firmly tannic and persistent, with a late note of chocolate.

90

Malbec Reserva La Consulta 2010($30) (aged for 15 months in new French oak; 15.5% alcohol): Bright full ruby. Precise aromas of black fruits, violet, spices and pepper. Dense, superripe and powerful, with obviously elevated alcohol but

solid acidity to leaven the sweetness of the highly concentrated dark berry, chocolate and musky espresso flavors. This very round, outsized malbec finishes with substantial palate-coating tannins and

chocolatey oak tones. Impressive wine for fans of the type.

90

A L T O S L A S H O R M I G A S

Malbec Vista Flores Single Vineyard Mendoza 2006($88) (100% malbec): Saturated deep ruby to the rim. Knockout nose combines blackcurrant, violet and licorice pastille. Sweet and seamless, with terrific intensity and a brisk, high-pitched character to

the cassis, violet and licorice flavors. Harmonious acidity gives lift and definition to the mid-palate. For all its immediate appeal, this dense, sweet, impressively concentrated malbec needs time in bottle to

soften. Finishes very long and classically dry, with the energy and structure to support a graceful evolution in bottle.

92

Priced from: 79.99

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Malbec Reserva Mendoza 2009($28) Ruby-red. Good spicy lift to the aromas of blackberry, licorice and bitter chocolate. Pure and focused, with intense dark berry and spice flavors firmed by a solid spine of acidity. Finishes strong and

long, with broad but fine tannins. Excellent potential here.

90(+?)

Malbec Clasico Mendoza 2011($13) Deep saturated red. Black plum, licorice and a note of chocolatey torrefaction on the nose. Sweet, suave and nicely deep, with a saline quality and good smoky complexity to its dark fruit and licorice

flavors. Finishes broad, with sweet tannins. Not a particularly fruity style, but nuanced for a wine in this price range.

88

Malbec Terroir Valle De Uco Mendoza 2010($18) Bright ruby-red. Crushed blackberry, menthol and licorice plus a whiff of reduction on the nose. Juicy, brisk and quite dry, in a distinctly savory, uncompromising style. On the lean side but well-

made. And the tannins are suave.

88

Bonarda Colonia Las Liebres Mendoza 2010

($10) Bright, full ruby-red. Aromas of blackberry, violet, chocolate and menthol. Firm blackberry, licorice and floral flavors are nicely framed by harmonious acidity and complicated by a saline element. Thisnicely sappy, persistent bonarda displays tannins that are suave and fine for the variety.

88

Priced from: 8.99

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A N D E L U N A C E L L A R S

Malbec Altitude Mendoza 2009($23) (15.5% alcohol): Good full, bright ruby. Lovely perfumed lift to the aromas and flavors of black cherry, blackberry, violet and bitter chocolate. Dense, sweet and ripe, with suave, extremely primary

flavors given cut and lift by the violety element. A very smooth but sharply delineated midweight with a suave, persistent finish; nicely hides its high octane. Lay this down for at least a couple more years.

91

Cabernet Sauvignon 1300 Mendoza 2010($12) Good red-ruby. Currant, pepper and coffee on the nose, complicated by licorice and menthol notes. Juicy, brisk and intense, with a savory quality lea vening the wine's sweetness. Finishes with

serious toothcoating tannins. A bit youthfully clenched, but offers good lift and structure for the price.


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88

Malbec 1300 Mendoza 2010($12) Bright, full red-ruby. Dark berries, licorice, violet and bitter chocolate on the nose. Juicy and graceful, with noteworthy intensity to the blackberry and spice flavors. This smooth, lively, fruit-driven

wine finishes with a broad dusting of tannins and nice lift and length. A very good value.

88

Cabernet Sauvignon Altitude Mendoza 2008($23) (15.5% alcohol): Good saturated medium ruby. Aromas of redcurrant, licorice and sexy oak. A lush, sweet redcurrant fruit bomb in the mouth, but with an aggressive quality from the high alcohol.

This big, round wine finishes with substantial broad tannins and good length. Needs to be served with a fatty meat dish.

88?A N G U L O I N N O C E N T I

Malbec Mendoza 2010($20) (blended with 15% cabernet sauvignon): Good bright, full ruby. Reduced, slightly medicinal aromas of black cherry, blackberry, menthol and bitter chocolate. Suave and fine-grained, with very good

palate presence and depth of flavor. A fruit bomb in the middle palate, but the substantial, well-supported tannins build with air, suggesting that this wine still needs some time to harmonize in bottle.

Finishes with hints of black pepper and game.

88(+?)

Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2010($20) (sealed with a screwcap): Good saturated ruby. Cassis, menthol, mocha, bitter choc olate and coffee on the nose. Lush, sweet and easygoing, with a seamless, creamy texture to the dark fruit, violet

and milk chocolate flavors. Finishes plump and full, with smooth tannins.

88

A N O R O

Malbec El Regalo Mendoza 2009($28) (blended with 10% cabernet sauvignon): Bright red-ruby. Sexy aromas of currant, raspberry, tobacco leaf and graphite. Broad, smooth, dry and fine-grained, with a restrained sweetness to the

currant and mineral flavors. In a reticent, structured style, showing good depth but finishing with a slightly tart quality. Give this another year or two in the cellar.

89

Chardonnay Mendoza 2010

($25) (70% aged in 20% new French oak, the rest in stainless steel tanks): Pale yellow-straw. Very spicy aromas of tropical fruits, peach and orange. Smooth and sweet on the palate, with a layeredtexture to the flavors of stone fruits, pineapple, minerals and spicy vanillin oak. Finishes a bit phenolic, with a strong oak element, but has the mid-palate material to support the wood treatment.

89

Malbec Mendoza 2009($25) Bright ruby-red. Dark cherry, menthol and strong oak tones on the nose. Supple, soft and moderately concentrated, with enticing sweetness to the dark berry, licorice and chocolate flavors. Turns a

bit herbal and tart on the back end, finishing with a rather easygoing structure.

88

A N T U C U R A

Gran Vin Uco Valley Mendoza 2007($35) (50% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 20% malbec; aged for 16 months in new Taransaud oak): Saturated deep ruby-red. Plum, graphite and mocha on the nose. Sweet, seamless and velvety;

quite lush and full without being heavy. The sweet fruit is leavened by graphite minerality. Finishes with sweet, pliant, building tannins and noteworthy persistence.91

Calcura Vista Flores Mendoza 2007($20) (50% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 20% malbec): Full red-ruby. Aromas of blackberry, cassis, menthol, licorice and violet. Juicy, spicy and intense, with tightly knit flavors of dark fruits,

spices and truffle. Boasts lovely inner-mouth energy and lift, in spite of a relatively high pH of 3.9. Finishes with a suave dusting of tannins. Made from a very small crop that was held down by flowering

problems. Very good value. 90

Cabernet Sauvignon Vista Flores Mendoza 2010($15) Good deep red-ruby. Currant, violet, mocha and smoke on the nose. Fine-grained and slightly wild, with an enticing hint of truffley underbrush adding complexity to the middle palate. Less plump

than the Malbec Vista Flores but a bit more sharply delineated. Finishes with firm oak-driven tannins and a slightly medicinal quality. 89

Malbec Vista Flores Mendoza 2010($15) (50% aged in French oak and 50% in sta inless steel): Bright red-ruby. Cassis, licorice, graphite, violet and chocolate on the nose. Round, sweet and seamless, with dense dark fruit flavors

complicated by saline soil tones. Nicely balanced and concentrated wine, finishing with dusty tannins and good length. This was made with less new oak than previously, and that's all to the good.89

Priced from: 16.5

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A R G E N T O

Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2010($13) Good full medium red. Blackberry, cherry and violet on the lively nose. A coolish, nicely delineated midweight with a restrained sweetness to its black fruit and mint flavors. Finishes firmly tannic and

persistent, with good energy.

88

Bonardo Mendoza 2010($13) Musky raspberry, plum and chocolate aromas lifted by a floral quality. Sweet raspberry fruit nicely cut by fresh acidity. A bit one-dimensional but the tannins are ripe and s mooth.

87

B E L A S C O D E B A Q U E D A N O

Malbec Ar Guentota Lujan De Cuyo 2009($25) Saturated medium ruby. Aromas of black cherry, blackberry and bitter chocolate, with a bit of porty superripeness as well as a mineral touch. Fat, sweet and concentrated, with very primary flavors

of black cherry, blackberry, licorice and menthol. Plenty of texture but not at all overly sweet on the slightly clenched back end. I'd hold off drinking this for at least 12 to 18 months.

89(+?)

Malbec Swinto Lujan De Cuyo 2009($40) (aged for 15 months in all-new Allier oak): Deep, saturated ruby. The aromas of dark berries and chocolatey oak show an almost porty ripeness. Large-scaled, pliant and rich, with a distinct

sweetness to the black cherry and molten chocolate flavors. This huge, mouthcoating wine comes across as a bit one-dimensional.

89

Priced from: 34.99

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Malbec Llama Old Vines Mendoza 2010($15) Good red-ruby. Blackberry, licorice, spicy oak and a whiff of violet on the nose. Supple, savory and a bit reduced, with a smooth texture to the fruit-driven flavors of plum, blackberry, cassis and

licorice. Not particularly sweet or complex but fairly fine-grained. Finishes with easy tannins and modest length.


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87

B E N M A R C O

Expresivo Mendoza 2009($35) (50% malbec, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 15% syrah, 10% tannat and 5% petit verdot; a selection from the best blocks of old vines; aged for 14 months in new oak, 70% French and 30% American):

Good full ruby-red. Blackberry, Baker's chocolate, flowers and sexy oak on the nose. Suave, sweet and juicy, with a distinctly savory accent and harmonious acidity to the raspberry and floral flavors. Offers

an attractive combination of sweetness and acidity and an umami-like texture. Finishes with dusty, building tannins and solid spine.

90

Malbec Mendoza 2010($20) Bright ruby-red. Licorice and exotic oak dominate the nose. Juicy and quite oaky, with chocolate, coffee bean and smoke flavors currently overshadowing the wine's fruit. Finishes dry and a tad

medicinal, with firm tannins.

89

Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2010($20) Red-ruby. Cassis, licorice and tarry oak on the nose. Juicy and fruity but on the lean side, with modest depth to its dar k berry flavors. Finishes with enticing sweetness but a slight dry edge. The

BenMarco wines are made by Susana Balbo, but these spend less time on their skins and are fermented at cooler temperature than Balbo's wines under her own label. The oak here is also more toasted.

88

B E N V E N U T O D E L A S E R N A

Trisagio Mendoza 2007($23) (34% malbec, 33% petit verdot and 33% tannat): Bright ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of dark berries and smoky oak, plus a touch of minerality. Big, broad and youthfully medicinal, with no easy

sweetness to the flavors of dark chocolate, licorice, menthol and violet. The wine's serious tannins are not yet in harmony with its firm acids.

87(+?)?

B O D E G A B R E S S I A

Cabernet Franc Monteagrelo Mendoza 2009($27) Dark red. Sexy, complex nose offers red- and blackcurrant, fresh herbs, flowers, coffee bean, milk chocolate and licorice; distinctly claret -like. Lively acidity gives energy and lift to the redcurrant and

spice flavors. At once intense and pliant, with nothing forced about it. Finishes very long and lively, with smooth tannins and lingering notes of currant, flowers and herbs. As good a cabernet franc bottling

as I've yet tasted from Argentina. (Unfortunately, my sample of the Monteagrelo Malbec was corked.)

91Profundo Mendoza 2007($40) (50% malbec, 30% cabernet sauvignon and 10% each merlot and syrah): Bright red-ruby. Aromas of redcurrant, raspberry and flowers complemented by sexy French oak. Suave, pliant and

scented; in a distinctly floral, elegant style. Flavors of red fruits, spices and flowers are given very good definition by nicely integrated acidity. Finishes dry, classic, firmly tannic and long. This wine

originally merited an even higher score but I marked it down for a building element of coconutty oak.

90?

B O D E G A A T A M I S Q U E

Malbec Valle De Uco Mendoza 2008($28) Good bright medium ruby. High-toned, somewhat porty aromas of black cherry, blackberry, licorice and coffee. Dense and sweet but with good vinosity and spine to its bright dark fruit flavors. A

nicely delineated, energetic midweight with firm, building tannins and very good length and grip. From vines more than 80 years of age; aged for 14 months in 100% new French oak.

89(+?)

Priced from: 26.95

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Chardonnay Valle De Uco Mendoza 2010($35) (aged in 100% new French oak for a year): Full yellow with gold highlights. Aromas of nectarine, white plum and vanillin oak, along with a mineral nuance. Broad, silky and sweet, with the wine's

substantial alcohol nicely buffered by fruit. There's a Burgundian stone fruit and leesy quality here, as well as a nicely fine-grained texture, but I'd love to be able to taste this material with a lighter dose of

vanillin oak.

88

B O D E G A B E N E G A S

Malbec Mendoza 2009($18) (15% alcohol): Full medium ruby. Ripe black fruits, coffee, choc olate and violet on the nose. Sweet but restrained on the palate, with ripe, harmonious acidity giving shape and firmness to the

youthfully medicinal blackberry and violet flavors. Nicely fine-grained wine with broad, building tannins. Carries its alcohol gracefully.

89

Benegas Lynch Cabernet Franc Libertad Vineyards Mendoza 2006($26) Moderately saturated medium red. Complex aromas of currant, plum, red cherry, musky tobacco, mocha, graphite and dried flowers. Suave and fine-grained in an Old World way, with strong soil

tones to the flavors of red fruits, game, truffle and smoke. Finishes with serious b ut even tannins and hints of menthol and licorice. This savory, intriguing cabernet franc needs some time in bottle.

89

Malbec Juan Benegas Mendoza 2009Good deep bright red. Plum, redcurrant, mocha and nutty oak on the nose and palate. Spicy, pliant and rather suave, with a fine-grained texture and good concentration. In an elegant style, finishing with

smooth tannins and light mint and herbal notes that perk up the fruit.

89

Priced from: 10.98

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Don Tiburcio Mendoza 2009($17) Good deep red-ruby. Cassis, plum and blackberry complemented by oak notes of spice, smoke and chocolate. Suave, sweet, fruit-driven wine in a rather primary style, with firm acidity keeping it a

bit clenched--and one-dimensional--today. An herbal quality gives the finish a tart edge. This needs a bit more time in bottle.

88(+?)

Priced from: 15

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Cabernet Sauvignon Luna Benegas Mendoza 2009($12) Bright ruby-red. Very ripe, slightly medicinal aromas of blackberry, plum and violet. Concentrated and complex, with a saline nuance to the flavors of black fruits, minerals, violet face powder and

licorice. Good depth of texture here. Finishes with substantial tongue-clenching tannins and lingering medicinal and herbal notes. Serious cabernet for the price.

88

Sangiovese Libertad Vineyards Mendoza 2008(from 70-year-old vines): Good full red. Aromas of redcurrant, tobacco and graphite, plus a whiff of Kahlua. Silky and fat, with modest lift to the plum and mocha flavors. Finishes with dusty, slightly drying

tannins. Not bad but I don't find the floral high notes or verve of the best examples of this variety.

87


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Cabernet Sauvignon Libertad Vineyards Mendoza 2009Good deep red. Plum and chocolatey oak dominate the nose. Nicely concentrated and classically dry, with plum and mocha flavors lifted by herbs and mint. The slightly medicinal finish shows a menthol

quality and a building element of greenness.

87

Cabernet Sauvignon Luna Benegas Mendoza 2008Good dark red. Redcurrant, cherry and nutty oak on the nose, with a faint whiff of raisin. Juicy, easygoing and moderately concentrated, with decent energy to the supple currant flavor. Finishes with light

but firm tannins. Ready to drink now; in fact, this showed a slightly advanced nut skin character with air

87

Priced from: 10.99Compare prices

Carmela Benegas Rose Mendoza 2010Garish orange-pink color. Bright aromas of strawberry, raspberry, cinnamon and flowers. Round and easygoing, with a touch of sweetness counterpointed by a saline nuance. Finishes quite dry and savory,

with a hint of youthful bitterness. Just a touch warm: serve this chilled.

87

B O D E G A C A T E N A Z A P A T A

Malbec Catena Zapata Argentino Mendoza 2008($135) (more or less 100% malbec, according to winemaker Alejandro Vigil): Bright ruby-red. Aromas of cassis, espresso, stone and bitter chocolate, with a violet topnote emerging with air. Wonderfully

sweet and silky but also quite penetrating, with a remarkably urgent quality to the crushed berry flavor. Superb minerality and a whiff of fresh herbs contribute to this wine's bracing character. Extremely

fine-grained from start to long, vibrant finish.

95

Malbec Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard Gualtallary Mendoza 2008($150) (includes 6% viognier and 2% cabernet franc; the cr op level here was well under a ton of fruit per acre): Bright medium ruby. Fascinating nose melds crushed blackberry, violet, flinty minerality and

a whiff of game; a bit like Hermitage! Utterly silky in the mouth, but with crisp, harmonious acidity giving cut and lift to the cassis and green fig flavors. Finishes with smooth, s ubstantial, building tannins

and a palate-staining kirsch flavor. Winemaker Alejandro Vigil adds back 20% to 30% of the stems to his top bottlings. F rom a cool vineyard at 4,725 feet where afternoon temperatures rarely exceed 86

degrees, according to Vigil.

94

Malbec Catena Zapata Nicasia Vineyard Altamira Mendoza 2008($115) (aged in all-new French barriques; includes 6% cabernet franc and 2% each pinot noir and viognier): Bright ruby-red. Pungent, high-pitched blackberry, black cherry and mineral aromas

complicated by notes of peach, citrus peel and flowers. Penetrating and sweet, with compelling inner-mouth aromatic character and lively harmonious acidity. For all its richness, this malbec is remarkably

light on its feet, thanks to the strong calcaire influence. Finishes with noble, tooth-dusting tannins and outstanding lingering perfume. Alejandro Vigil, who took over as chief winemaker at Catena in 2007,

has been adding small percentages of other varieties to the Adrianna and Nicasia Vineyard malbec bottlings in search of greater complexity and individuality.

94

Cabernet Sauvignon Catena Alta Mendoza 2009($52) (aged entirely in French oak, 80% new): Full deep red-ruby. Superripe aromas of blackberry and bitter chocolate, complicated by hints of wild herbs, game and mint. Sweet, pliant and suave, but

with integrated acidity giving focus to the middle palate. Winemaker Alejandro Vigil added 10% cabernet franc to the blend to add floral lift. Finishes broad and fine-grained, with sweet tannins and

excellent grip and length.

92

Malbec Catena Alta Mendoza 2009($55) (from four different vineyards, each picked at four different times): Good ruby-red. Laid-back aromas of blackberry, musky coffee and licorice, with a violet note emerging with air. Superconcentrated

and sweet, but with firm balancing acidity and a mineral pungency giving the wine excellent thrust. Very deep malbec with broad, smooth tannins and serious length.

92

Priced from: 39.99

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Chardonnay Alta 2009($33) (aged for 16 months in 50% new French oak): Pale bright yellow. Sexy aromas of tangerine, stone fruits, talc and flowers. Bright and penetrating, with a subtle intensity and a suggestion of sea air to

the fresh apricot flavor. A strong calcaire quality gives this wine terrific inner-mouth lift and finishing grip. Winemaker Alejandro Vigil notes that this wine contains the fruit of several different parcels ondifferent soils, harvested up to a month apart. There's always some botrytis in the mix, but this chardonnay is more class ic than exotic.

92

Priced from: 24.98

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Cabernet Sauvignon Nicolas Catena Zapata Mendoza 2008($135) (60% cabernet sauvignon, 20% malbec and 2% cabernet franc): Bright full ruby-red. Black fruits, violet, minerals and exotic oak on the nose. Painfully clenched and imploded today, with precise

black fruit and violet flavors complicated by saline, mineral and oak notes. Dominated by its serious tannic structure. Finishes with a coconutty oak character. With several top vineyards, dates of harvest

and different varieties vinified separately, winemaker Vigil estimates that this blend was made from 500 lots of wine! Should make a great bottle but I wouldn't go near this for at least five more years.

92(+?)

Malbec Mendoza 2009($24) (aged in 70% French and 30% American oak, about 35% new): Bright ruby-red. Blackberry, redcurrant, licorice, violet and pepper on the nose, plus a whiff of game. Creamy, concentrated and

sweet, with a seamless texture to the high-toned blackberry and saline flavors. Offers a thickness of texture and a well-judged sugar/acid balance. Finishes quite long, with very suave tannins.

91

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Malbec Catena Alta Mendoza 2008Full ruby-red. Aromas of cassis, licorice, violet and musky oak. Distinctly lush and creamy on the palate but with ripe acidity giving shape to the currant, mocha and chocolate flavors. This seamless malbec

verges on confectionery. Finishes very long, with fine-grained tannins.

91

Priced from: 36.99

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Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2009($20) Dark bright red. Plum, currant, tobacco and cola on the ripe, varietally expressive nose. A lush, sweet, fine-grained midweight with good freshness to its raspberry, plum and spice flavors. Finishes

with good ripe tannins and some edgy acidity that calls for a year of patience. Excellent value.

91

Priced from: 13.98

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Chardonnay Mendoza 2010($20) (aged in one-third new oak): Pale bright yellow. Citrus peel, stone fruits, sweet herbs and spicy oak notes of ginger and cinnamon on the nose. Ripe, smooth and peachy, with a strong component of

vanillin oak. A bit soft in the middle but quite dry and uncompromising, with a saline nuance on the back.


6/29

89

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B O D E G A C H A C R A

Pinot Noir Cincuenta Y Cinco Patagonia 2010($120) (just 11.5% alcohol!): Bright medium red. High-pitched, delicate aromas of red fruits, flowers, blood orange, pepper, fresh herbs and spicy underbrush. The strawberry, cherry and cinnamon flavors

show very good spicy cut but come across as quite tight today. Sleek, dry, delicate and lean. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and lingering, savory notes of dark fruits, spices and leather. Offers

lovely precision but little in the way of flesh or easy sweetness.

90

Merlot Mainque Patagonia 2009($40) Medium red. Perfumed aromas of red cherry, strawberry, rose petal and spices. Racy acidity gives a light touch to the intense red berry and floral flavors; a rather pinot style of merlot--not surprising

as this is from a pinot noir specialist in Patagonia. Finishes with suave, fine-grained tannins, noteworthy lift and lovely sneaky perfume. Lacks the complexity for an even higher score, but this is delicious.

89

Pinot Noir Barda Patagonia 2010($24) (12.8% alcohol): Bright medium red. Subtle, high-pitched aromas of strawberry, redcurrant, cherry and spices, complemented by a sweet earthy component. Tangy, light and juicy but also sweet

and pliant, with lovely energy and intensity to the red fruit flavors. Finishes with lightly dusty tannins and lingering sweetness. A very successful vintage for this bottling.

88

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B O D E G A C I C C H I T T I

Malbec Edicion Limitada Mendoza 2009($48) Good full ruby-red. Rather carnal aromas of black raspberry, blackberry, cassis and tru ffle, lifted by violet. Lush and sweet on entry, then fat and broad in the middle, with strong dark berry fruit

complicated by mocha and game. Not quite differentiated enough for an outstanding rating but this wine still has baby fat to lose. Finishes with horizontal, palate-dusting tannins and sexy spice notes. (A

second bottle showed a slight greenness on the back end and merited 88 points.)

89

Malbec Gran Reserva Mendoza 2008($50) (12 months in new French and American oak): Good bright ruby. Blackberry syrup, mocha, menthol and chocolate on the nose. Supple, dense and juicy, with an attractive sweetness and a light

touch to the black cherry and menthol flavors. Sound acidity and ripe, easygoing tannins give this wine good subtle persistence. There's more than enough fruit here to support the oak element. Good fat

finish, with a light greenness adding nuance.

88

Malbec Edicion Limitada Mendoza 2008($26) (40% pinot noir, 38% sangiovese and 22% merlot): Medium red. Musky strawberry, cherry, violet, espresso and a hint of mint on the nose. Ripe, lightly saline and lively, with a restrained sweetness

and good lift to the flavors of blackberry, plum and spicy tobacco. The tannins a re dusty, but there's good lingering fruit. A nicely vibrant blend.

88

Red Blend Mendoza 2009($28) (60% malbec, 30% cabernet sauvignon and 10% merlot): Currant, mocha, chocolate, tobacco and hints of meat and menthol on the slightly low-toned nose. Smooth, sweet and fairly thick but with

just enough energy to maintain its balance. Cherry and currant fruit is given a medicinal quality by a suggestion of chocolatey cough syrup. Finishes with supple tannins but a slight dryness.

87

Malbec Mendoza 2010($32) Saturated red-ruby. Raspberry, mocha, smoky oak and brown spices on the nose. Densely packed but with a restrained sweetness to its dark raspberry and exotic oak flavors. A solid edge of acidity

energizes the mid-palate. Not complex but not overly oaky either. The lightly saline, oaky back end features ripe tannins. This is carrying a moderate 13% alcohol.

87

Sangiovese Mendoza 2008($25) Medium red. Aromas of plum, mocha, chocolatey oak and dried flowers. Juicy and moderately intense, with plum and strawberry flavors perked up by some unabsorbed CO2. Not complex but nicely

juicy. Finishes with dusty tannins that turn a bit dry with aeration.

87

B O D E G A D E L F I N D E L M U N D O

Pinot Noir Reserva Patagonia 2010($20) Medium red with a pale edge. Raspberry, oak spice and truffley underbrush on the nose. Juicy, spicy red fruit and earth flavors are given shape and lift by firm acidity. Supple in the middle but a bit

ungiving on the finish owing to edgy acidity and a slight dryness to the tannins.

87

B O D E G A D E L M A E S T R E

Maestre De Campo Mendoza 2008($40) (malbec): Good ruby-red. Cassis, black raspberry, violet and new oak spices on the nose; the least herbal of the three new releases from Bodega del Maestre. Rich, lush and sweet, with dark berry

and chocolatey oak flavors framed by harmonious acidity. Good depth and fine-grained texture here. The building finish features fine tannins, notes of wild herbs and menthol, and a slight oaky dryness.

89

Malbec Escudero Mendoza 2009($22) Red-ruby. Oaky aromas of cassis, licorice and herbs. Sweet, ripe and supple, with a fine-grained texture to the blackberry, boysenberry and mint flavors. Licorice and herb notes give a firm edge to

the dark berry fruit. Finishes with fine, slightly dusty tannins and a lightly medicinal menthol quality.

88B O D E G A D E L T U P U N

Malbec Reserva Mendoza 2010($14) Bright red-ruby. Dark fruits, chocolate and smoky oak on the nose. Juicy, fresh and nicely delineated, with firm acidity carrying the blackberry and violet flavors. Relies more on its acidity than on its

firm tannins for shape and structure. Finishes with good lift. A solid value.

88

B O D E G A E R A L B R A V O

Cabernet Sauvignon Erales Mendoza 2008($20) Bright medium ruby. Rather oaky aromas of cassis, coffee, chocolate and menthol. Suave and sweet, with harmonious acidity framing the cassis, violet and bitter chocolate flavors. I might have

picked this blind as a malbec. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and a lightly green quality. Good sweet fruit here.

88

Eral Bravo Ybs Mendoza 2008


7/29

($40) (56% malbec, 34% cabernet sauvignon and 10% syrah): Full, deep medium ruby. Aromas of cassis, menthol, mocha and espresso. Sweet, pliant and generous, with lush flavors of dark berries and

sexy oak spices. Finishes with mouthcoating ripe tannins and a rather st rong oak element. Just a bit dry on the back: does this have the stuffing to absorb some of its oak with a couple more years in t he

cellar?

88(+?)?

Malbec Erales Mendoza 2008($20) Bright medium ruby. Black fruits, spices, licorice and mocha on t he rather serious nose. Juicy, spicy and intense, with lively acidity giving a slightly clenched quality to the medicinal black fruit flavors.

The tannins are suave, though. I'd cellar this for a year or two to allow it to soften and expand.

88(+?)?

B O D E G A F E R N A N D O D U P O N T

Pasacana Maimara Jujuy 2008($88) (70% malbec with 15% each cabernet sauvignon and syrah): Saturated dark ruby to the rim. Aromas of crushed blackberry, violet, pepper, game, truffle and toasty oak, plus a whiff of maple syrup;

a bit reminiscent of Cote-Rotie. Then suave and fine-grained on the palate, with flavors similar to the aromas. Shows a surprisingly light touch for such a seamless wine. Finishes with smooth, building

tannins, a slightly medicinal cast and a late suggestion of raisin.

89

Punta Corral Maimara Jujuy 2010($52) (80% malbec and 10% each syrah and cabernet sauvignon; grown at 8,200 feet): Medic inal black cherry, raspberry, violet, mocha and chocolate on the nose. Lush, sweet and smooth, but with a

continuing medicinal character to the dark berry, currant and chocolate flavors. Seamless, light ly saline wine with softish tannins and decent length. Has a firm acid spine but I wanted a bit more veve.

88

B O D E G A K R O N T I R A S

Malbec Reserva Dona Silvina Mendoza 2008($65) Good deep ruby. Powerful aromas of blackberry, licorice and minerals. Sweet, dense and chewy if a bit extractive, with thick dark berry flavors coming across as rather musclebound today. Finishes

with huge dusty tannins and some lingering dryness. Will this harmonize with more bottle aging, or is it simply a bit overdone?

89(+?)?

Malbec Dona Silvina Mendoza 2009($24) Bright, dark red. Restrained but pure aromas of black cherry, blackberry and violet. Sappy, spicy and tightly wound, with firm acidity framing the dark berry and bitter chocolate flavors. Finishes with

dusty, building tannins and a slightly medicinal character. Built to age, and in need of at least a couple years of patience.

89

B O D E G A L A M A D R I D

Malbec Single Vineyard Reserve Mendoza 2010($20) Full red-ruby. Vibrant aromas of crushed blackberry, violet, spices, licorice and bitter chocolate. Suave and smooth on entry, then dense and fine-grained in the middle, showing lovely perfume and

vinosity to its blackberry and violet flavors. Offers lovely concentration without heaviness. The rising finish, which features a fine dusting of tannins, conveys a strong impression of energy. Very malbec,

and capable of further improvement in bottle. The Lamadrid wines, made by Hector Durigutti, have done consistently well in these pages in recent years.

90(+?)

Torrontes La Rioja 2010($12) Pale bright yellow. Pure, fresh aromas and flavors of citrus peel, flowers, wild herbs, anise and honey. Dense and rich, with a hint of sweetness and a tactile saline quality. A substantial torrontes with

good palate presence. Finishes classically dry and persistent.

89

Priced from: 11.99

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Malbec Mendoza 2010($16) Bright red-ruby. Nicely perfumed nose and palate offer blackberry, violet, licorice and spices. Supple, juicy and light on its feet; vinous and easy to drink. Finishes with smooth tannins and moderate

length.

88

Priced from: 12.99

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B O D E G A L U I G I B O S C A

Icono Lujan De Cuyo 2007($150) (a 55/45 blend of malbec and cabernet sauvignon from 90-year-old vines; the two components are aged for six months in new barriques, then assembled and aged another year in new barrels):

Deep, bright red-ruby. Sexy aromas of blackberry and sandalwood. Rich, round, sappy and deep, with currant, blackberry and spicy oak flavors along with a rather exotic nutty quality. Finishes broad and

dry, with a suave dusting of tannins. Structured in an old school way. My only quibble here is with the wine's oak element.

91?

Gala 1 Mendoza 2008($40) (85% malbec with 10% petit verdot and 5% tannat): Good bright, full red . Currant, earth, menthol and chocolatey, vanillin oak on the nose, lifted by a whiff of rose petal. Suave on entry, then

mellow and round in the middle, with good freshness to the slightly medicinal red cherry and currant flavors. Ripe acids and fine-grained tannins give this wine a solid structural underpinning for bottle

aging, even if it's approachable already.

90

Priced from: 29.95

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Gala 2 Lujan De Cuyo 2009($40) (cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc): Bright ruby-red. Sexy aromas of black raspberry, mocha and coffee, along with a peppery quality and enticing floral lift from the cab franc; very Old World

in style. Suave and sweet, with strong personality to the claret-like flavors of musky currant, mocha and pepper. Finishes firm and vibrant, with refined tannins.

90

De Sangre Mendoza 2009($30) (a blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon and 15% each merlot and s yrah): Full medium red. Complex nose melds currant, cherry, fresh herbs, leather and spicy oak, with mineral and floral nuances

providing lift. Surprisingly sweet and silky on entry, then lush in the middle, with sound acidity framing the red fruit flavors. Conveys a savory impression of extract. Not quite as primary as the 2008

vintage from Lujan de Cuyo but offers enticing inner-mouth perfume and the balance to give early pleasure. Finishes with supple, dusty tannins and lingering sweetness. In a mellow Old World style.

89

Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2009($20) Dark red. Musky currant, menthol, game and mocha on the nose. Pliant, lush and sexy, with a restrained sweetness to t he slightly medicinal dark berry and menthol flavors. This round, satisfying,

nicely refined cabernet finishes with sweet tannins and noteworthy persistence. (A second bottle, which I rated 87, showed very good mouth coverage but more diffuse red fruit and mocha aromas and

flavors.)

89

Finca Los Nobles Malbec Verdot Lujan De Cuyo 2007


8/29

($62) (an 88/12 blend): Good red-ruby. Aromas of blackberry, licorice and menthol. Silky, fat and rich, with lush flavors of blackberry, coffee, chocolate and mocha. A very creamy blend that comes across

as almost simple today owing to its pronounced sweetness. Finishes with suave tannins and good length but could use a bit more grip.

89

Malbec Single Vineyard Lujan De Cuyo 2009($25) (from 70-year-old vines): Good full, bright red. Brooding aromas of dark berries, mocha and oak. More substantial but less appealing today than the regular malbec bottling, with the flavors of

blackberry, mocha and violet struggling under a heavy layer of oak. Plenty of material here but the tannins are dusty and slightly dry, giving the finish a rigid quality. Will this come into better focus with

time in bottle?

88(+?)?

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Sauvignon Blanc Reserva Maipu 2010($21) Pale, bright yellow. Pungent aromas of grapefruit, lime zest and menthol. Juicy, intense and quite dry, with a bracing citrus pith quality giving the wine a distinctly uncompromising quality. Serious

sauvignon with a lightly medicinal character on the back end. Just 12.4% alcohol here.

88

Malbec Reserva Lujan De Cuyo 2009($21) Bright medium red. Aromas and flavors of redcurrant, cherry, spiced plum, menthol and smoky oak reminded me a bit of pinot noir. Juicy and pure in the mouth, with good cut and intensity and

subtle floral perfume. Tangy, moderately intense malbec with harmonious acidity and easygoing tannins. On the light side and very easy to drink.

88

B O D E G A M E L I P A L

Malbec Reserva Mendoza 2007($30) Good bright ruby-red. Sexy, high-toned aromas of blackberry, plum, violet and licorice. Suave, juicy and fine-grained on the palate, with flavors of sweet dark berries, licorice and bitter chocolate. A

bit youthfully clenched but not hard. Finishes with a firm spine of acids and tannins and very good sneaky persistence.

89

Malbec Mendoza 2010($17) Ruby-red. Reduced nose dominated by crushed blackberry. Supple, fruity and fine-grained if a bit youthfully bound-up, offering good breadth to the sweet blackberry, licorice and chocolate flavors.

Finishes with smooth, dusty, nicely integrated tannins and lingering dark berry and licorice flavors.

88

B O D E G A M O N T E V I E J O

Gran Monteviejo Mendoza 2006(80% malbec and 20% syrah): Bright saturated ruby. Cassis, black raspberry and sweet mocha oak on the nose. Lush and supple on entry, then concentrated and bound-up in the mid-palate, with a

medicinal cast to the black cherry, licorice and chocolatey oak flavors. Less easy sweetness here than the 2007 Lindaflor Malbec is showing today. Finishes with substantial, broad tannins that coat the

teeth. Will this improve with more time in bottle or will it begin to dry out? Relies more on its tannins than on its acidity for structure.

90(+?)?

Malbec Altitude 1050 Valle De Uco 2010($13) Dark red. Nuanced, inviting aromas of currant, blackberry, violet, chocolate and leather. In a sweet, fruit-driven style, with bright acidity framing the juicy fruit. Lively and light on its feet in a

Beaujolais way (it's only 13.5% alcohol). This easy-drinking midweight finishes with vibrant notes of licorice and mint. Delicious, and an excellent bargain.

89

Malbec Festivo Mendoza 2010($15) Bright dark red. Inviting aromas of redcurrant, strawberry, plum and mocha, plus a suggestion of dried fruits. At once sweet and juicy, with good energy and a fine grain to the dark berry flavors.

This delightfully fresh wine finishes with sweet but firm tannins and lingering perfume.

89

Torrontes Festivo Valle De Uco Mendoza 2011

($15) Pale bright yellow. Fresh peach, white flowers and mint on the clean, vibrant nose; reminded me of viognier. Supple, fruity and dry, with the peach and floral flavors carrying through in the mouth.Finishes with a slight warmth but good lingering perfume.

88

Chardonnay Lindaflor Valle De Uco 2010($39) Full straw-yellow. Exotic, oak-driven aromas of butterscotch, vanilla and clove dominate the nose. Fat, round, silky and sweet, but with fruit flavors currently overshadowed by vanillin oak. A bit one-

dimensional. Finishes with a slight alcoholic warmth.

87

B O D E G A N O E M I A

Malbec Rio Negro Valley 2009($130) (aged for 18 months in new French oak; made from 79-year-old vines): Bright, medium ruby-red. Very ripe, slightly high-toned aromas of dark berries, dark chocolate and sexy oak. Like liquid silk

on entry but with superb definition and verve thanks to harmonious acidity. Dark fruit flavors are accented by exotic spices, coffee and cocoa. Wonderfully suave and fine-grained wine with terrific sappy

concentration and depth. The tannins are virtually invisible on the very long, fresh, slowly building finish.

93(+?)

Malbec Rio Negro Valley 2008($130) Bright, full ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of black raspberry, violet, chocolate and spicy oak. Fatter and broader than the 2009 despite being a bit lower in alcohol (13.5%, vs. 14%); superconcentrated

but showing less obvious acidity and definition today. Finishes with substantial tongue-dusting tannins and a lightly medicinal character. I find more thorough ripeness and more complexity in the young

2009.

92

Malbec J. Alberto Rio Negro Valley 2010($54) (blended with 5% merlot; 70% done in cement tank, the other 3% in second-use French oak): Bright medium ruby-red. Precise aromas of blackberry, cocoa powder, licorice and violet, plus a whiff of

leather. Sappy, saline and deep, with complex soil tones complicating the blackberry, boysenberry and violet flavors. Really urgent, sappy crushed-fruit character here. This very young, minerally wine

finishes with broad, dusty tannins, excellent energy and length, and lovely aromatic perfume. Lovely malbec with a light touch.

91

A Lisa Patagonia 2010(no new oak): Full ruby-red. Wild, musky aromas of black raspberry, cherry, exotic herbs, cocoa and game. Smooth and seamless in t he mouth, with good lift and definition, but the leather and game

elements are distinctly rustic. The tannins are fine but the finish is too leathery. A second bottle was similarly marred by notes of game, leather and adhesive tape, suggesting problems with the cooperage.

Not recommended for the faint of heart.

87?

Priced from: 15.99


9/29

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B O D E G A P I E D R A N E G R A / F R A N C O I S L U R T O N

Chacayes Mendoza 2008(15.5% alcohol; from what the winery describes as a rare mixture of gravel, sand and volcanic so il): Bright, saturated medium ruby. Flinty minerality and sexy oak tones add interest to the blackberry,

violet and licorice flavors. Densely packed but light on its feet, with excellent inner-mouth energy to the cassis, blackberry and mineral flavors. Still quite primary, but the wine's oak component is in good

balance with its powerful material. The subtly long, rising finish features a solid tannin/acid spine and complex saline, mineral and chocolate notes. I'd give this seriously structured wine four or five years in

the cellar.

91(+?)

Malbec Reserva Mendoza 2010Good dark red. Subtly complex aromas of redcurrant, cherry, violet, woodsmoke and menthol. Fine-grained, suave and floral; good energy gives a graceful quality to this round, pliant malbec. Finishes with

fine, tongue-dusting tannins that coat the mouth without leaving any impression of weight. Nothing overdone or out of place here. Classically dry and suave.

90

Pinot Gris Lurton Valle De Uco Mendoza 2011($12) Pale straw. Sexy aromas and flavors of orange peel, ginger, cinnamon and anise. Spicy, savory, chewy and dry, with a slightly phenolic, almost tannic quality to the mid-palate. Good subtle intensity

here: this really bites into food. The persistent, lean finish offers excellent cut.

89

Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Lurton Mendoza 2008($25) Ruby-red. Cassis, blackberry, coffee, menthol and licorice on the nose. Supple and spicy, with a restrained sweetness to the raspberry, cassis and mineral flavors; lightly herbal in a Bordeaux way.

Classically dry, firmly tannic wine with very good inner-mouth definition and lift. Cellar this to allow the building tannins to soften.

89

Corte Friulano Gran Lurton Mendoza 2010(70% sauvignon vert--a.k.a. friuliano--20% pinot gris, 8% chardonnay and 2% torrontes): Full medium yellow. Peach pit, lemon curd, spring flowers, vanilla and nutmeg on the nose, complicated by

medicinal herbs and sexy barrel notes. Rich, broad and tactile, with a pliant umami texture and nicely integrated acidity accentuating the wine's impression of depth. Finishes with a slightly phenolic fruit pit

quality.

89

Malbec Piedro Negro Mendoza 2008

Full red-ruby. Crushed blackberry, cassis, fresh herbs and some exotic oak notes on the nose. The flavors of dark berries and oak are densely packed and youthfully imploded, with firm acidity giving thepalate a clenched quality. Edgy, oak-driven tannins provide for a sound structural underpinning but will need time to be absorbed. Like the 2007 version, this shows a slight greenness on the finish.

88(+?)

B O D E G A R I C O M I N C I A R E

Malbec Altisimo Mendoza 2008($32) Bright ruby-red. Blackberry, dark chocolate and mocha on the oaky nose. Ripe and fine-grained, with currant and choco late flavors along with a note of menthol. Decent fruit here but quite dry and

old-fashioned. Finishes with mounting, dusty tannins and a repeating note of menthol. I wanted more sweet fruit.

87

Cabernet Franc Altisimo Mendoza 2008($32) Bright full red. Redcurrant, plum, tobacco and musky oak on the nose, with hints of smoke and violet. Supple, smooth and quite dry, with a slightly gamey quality to the currant and mocha flavors.

Shows more fruit than the winery's basic bottlings, but still a bit rustic and old-fashioned. Finishes with a note of menthol and dusty, ultimately rather dry tannins.

87

B O D E G A R U C A M A L E N

Malbec Kinien Mendoza 2009($45) Saturated ruby to the rim. Aromas of black cherry, bitter chocolate and espresso. Dense, sweet and concentrated, with sexy mocha oak tones complementing dark berry fruit. This large-scaled,

primary, palate-coating malbec possesses surprisingly good supporting acidity. Finishes round, broad and quite tannic, with a lingering flavo r of melting chocolate. Comes off as very ripe, but the 13.8%

alcohol is downright reasonable.

90

B O D E G A S U R D E L O S A N D E S

Malbec Gran Reserva Mendoza 2009Bright ruby-red. Black cherry and raspberry on the nose, plus a chocolatey oak component that builds with air. Smooth, rich and nicely vinous, with more intensity of blueberry and raspberry fruit to buffer

its oak element than the Malbec Reserva bottling. Thick but with a light touch, thanks to harmonious acidity. Still plenty of c hocolatey oak on the back end, but the tannins spread out to du st the mouth.

88

Chardonnay Mendoza 2010($11) Straw-gold color. Orange, apricot and mango on the nose, complemented by spicy, vanillin oak. Rich, spicy and moderately intense, with citrus and tropical fruit flavors and a subtle leesy complexity.

Finishes with a touch of bitterness.

87

Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2009($11) Full red. Sour cherry, tarry oak spices, ea rth and menthol on the nose. A slightly herbal, juicy midweight in a rather old-fashioned style, with dominant flavors of cherry, currant, leather, spices and

licorice. Finishes with hints of chocolate and leather, and dusty tannins that turn a bit dry.

87

B O D E G A T A C U I L

Vinas De Davalos Salta 2010($100) (80% malbec and 20% cabernet sauvignon from ten-year-old vines grown at 7,874 feet): Full, bright ruby-red. Aromas of blackberry compote, dark chocolate and licorice. Dense, thick and sweet

but lively, with outstanding concentration and depth to the dark fruit and mineral flavors. Really explosive on the palate but utterly smooth too. Finishes impressively long, with lush tannins buried in fruit.

An extraordinary wine for such young vines. Definitely a winery to watch.

92

Rd Malbec/Cabernet Salta 2010($45) (an 80/20 blend; from seven-year-old vines grown at an altitude of 8,630 feet): Bright red-ruby. High-toned aromas of crushed berries, lilac, violet and spices, lifted by a peppery element. Densely

packed, juicy and sharply delineated, with noteworthy inner-mouth perfume to the slightly wild dark berry and game flavors. At once savory and open-knit, with pepper and spice notes accentuating the

wine's purity of fruit. Finishes with a broad dusting of sweet tannins and excellent length. This fascinating estate, which has its own appellation (Valle Tacuil), uses no oak at all to make its wines.

90

33 De Davalos Salta 2010($70) (an 80/20 blend of malbec and cabernet sauvignon, from ten-year-old vines grown at 7,874 feet): Bright full ruby-red. Urgent crushed blackberry, licorice, spices and bitter chocolate on the brooding

nose. Savory and a bit medicinal; less showy and generous than the RD but this is much more primary and backward. I find more of an herbal cabernet character here and a medicinal reserve but this wine


10/29

nonetheless finishes with sneaky persistence. All three of these wines weigh in at around 15% alcohol and have pHs in the 3.9 range. But since there's no sweetening influence of new oak, you'd never

know it.

90(+?)

B O D E G A V A L E N T I N B I A N C H I

Malbec Mendoza 2010($18) Deep red-ruby. Aromas of crushed blackberry, black cherry and violet. Sweet and supple on entry, then nicely firm and lively in the middle, with well-integrated acidity and a floral element lifting the

black fruit flavors. Finishes firmly tannic and long but a bit youthfully imploded: I'd give this a year or two in bottle to expand.

88

Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2010($13) Primary aromas of cassis and spices. Simple but brisk and fresh, with good intensity to the cassis and dark chocolate flavors. A bit medicinal and wound-up today, finishing with a serious dusting of

tannins

87

B O D E G A V I S T A L B A

Malbec Tomero Gran Reserva Mendoza 2009($50) (15.5% alcohol): Saturated, bright deep ruby. High-pitched aromas of blackberry and minerals complemented by coffee and chocolate oak notes. Seamless and impressively intense, with a medicinal

reserve to its dark berry, spice and sexy oak flavors. Ripe, harmonious acidity and firm but sweet tannins give this malbec early accessibility but also the structure to age. Really saturates the entire mouth

on the long finish, which conveys a strong impression of mineral and menthol tension. Carries its high alcohol with grace.

91

Corte A Mendoza 2009($50) (60% malbec and 20% each bonarda and cabernet sauvignon): Deep, saturated ruby. Wild blackberry, blueberry, cassis and menthol on the nose. Sweet and concentrated, with the intense

blackberry and violet flavors showing an almost porty ripeness; harmonious acidity and a note of minerality give shape to the wine. Finishes with substantial building tannins and a strong chocolatey flavor.

90

Corte B Mendoza 2009($25) (60% malbec and 20% each bonarda and cabernet sauvignon; 15+% alcohol): Good bright satu rated ruby. Superripe aromas of blackberry, cassis, graphite, menthol and spicy, chocolatey oak. Rich,

broad and sweet, with lovely dark berry intensity and floral lift. Harmonious acidity contributes to the impression o f energy and extends the wine's fruit. Finishes spicy and fine-grained, with firm tannins

reaching the front teeth. This has the spine to evolve slowly and positively in bottle.

90(+?)

Syrah Tomero Reserva Valle De Uco 2009($25) (15.4% alcohol): Medium ruby. Exotic aromas of dark berries, nutty oak and spices. Then fruitier and fresher in the mouth than the nose suggests, with nicely integrated acidity energizing the cassis

and blackberry flavors. A bit obviously oaky but boasts very good vinosity and sneaky persistence. The fine-grained tannins build with air.

89

B O D E G A W E I N E R T

Gran Vino Mendoza 2004($28) (40% each malbec and cabernet sauvignon, with 20% merlot; from the winery's "selection of our best wines"; aged for three years in old French oak): Bright, dark saturated red. Plum, chocolate,

pepper and herbs on the nose, with complicating notes of mocha, menthol, graphite and spicecake and a hint of old barrel. Vinous and lively, showing a restrained Old World sweetness to the flavors of

plum and fruitcake. Finishes with slightly rustic dusty tannins and late notes of black olive tapenade and porcini. Like an old-fashioned claret: for the traditionalist.

88

B O D E G A Y V I N E D O S O . F O U R N I E R

Malbec Alfa Crux Uco Valley 2008($100) (aged 20 months in 80% French and 20% American oak, all new): Aromas of blueberry, black raspberry and sexy oak convey an almost porty ripeness. Then sweet and juicy in the mouth, with

surprising definition and lift to the powerful dark berry and bitter chocolate flavors. This very tactile, long wine finishes with building chocolatey tannins and captivating high tones.

91

B Crux Valle De Uco 2008($25) (a blend of 60% tempranillo, 15% cabernet sauvignon, 15% syrah and 10% malbec): Good full ruby-red. Black cherry, plum and spicy oak on the nose. Spicy, firm and tightly wound, with very good

vinosity to the flavors of redcurrant, minerals, coffee and tobacco. A gripping, rather sophisticated midweight with lovely sweetness, suave tannins and very good length.

90

Malbec Mendoza 2008($80) (aged for 17 months in new French and American oak): Deep saturated ruby. Black cherry and licorice aromas show an almost pruney ripeness. Concentrated but very oaky and high-toned, with the

pruney quality carrying through in the mouth. The wine's aggressive wood element overshadows its varietal and site character. For fans of superripe, very oaky wines. I want more complexity for eighty

bucks.

89?

Urban Uco Blend 2011($12) (50% each malbec and tempranillo): Dark red. Expressive, superripe nose offers cherry liqueur, plum, fig jam and flowers. Juicy and vinous, with surprising freshness and lift to the plum and

redcurrant flavors. This savory, slightly clenched wine would go well with fatty meats. Finishes with sweet, even tannins and good length and lift. Very good value.

88

Torrontes Urban Eco Mendoza 2011($14) Pale straw-yellow. Viognier-like aromas of peach, flowers, wild herbs, mint and anise. Supple, peachy and nicely concentrated, in a rather gentle style. Just a bit blurry and warm on the back end.

87B O D E G A Y V I N E D O S R E N A C E R

Allegrini & Renacer Enamore Mendoza 2009($26) (a joint project between Renacer and the Amarone producer Allegrini; 60% malbec, 30% cabernet sauvignon and 5% each cabernet franc and bonarda, with the grapes partially dr ied on the vines via

the appassimento process): Bright red-ruby. Liqueur-like dark raspberry, cassis, licorice and black pepper on the nose, plus an exotic whiff of fresh apricot. Distinctly sweet (8 g/l r.s.) but with excellent

acidity giving the wine a surprising delicacy. Exotic and round, with terrific fruit intensity and a very long, seamless finish featuring sweet tannins. An excellent vintage for this extract-rich wine.

91

Punto Final Malbec Reserva Mendoza 2008($20) Saturated ruby-red. Crushed blackberry, licorice and musky espresso on the nose. Sweeter and deeper than the regular malbec, with a youthful blackberry flavor enlivened by pepper and spices.

Quite bright for such a thick, rich, chewy wine. Finishes with building sweet tannins and lingering fresh berries. A major mouthful of wine for the price.

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Punto Final Malbec Mendoza 2010($12) Good dark red-ruby. Smoky blackberry and minerals on the nose. Sweet, lush and fruit-driven; offers terrific volume for the price. Not quite complex enough for 90 points but finishes smooth and

broad, with lush tannins and notes of licorice, violet and game. An outstanding value.

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B O D E G A S A L M A N E G R A

Gran Misterio Red Wine Mendoza 2008($90) (a 70/30 combination of malbec and cabernet franc): Deep ruby. Blackberry, licorice and violet on the nose, complicated by an exotic jammy quality. Then dense, backward and youthfully imploded

on the palate, but with superb depth and chewy extract to the dark berry, bitter chocolate and game flavors. Finishes with noble tannins and a palate-staining boysenberry flavor. This blend is all from Uco

Valley vineyards. Outstanding potential and in need of at least a few years of patience.

93(+?)

Misterio Mendoza 2008($34) (30% each bonarda and cabernet franc and 20% each petit verdot and malbec): Good bright ruby-red. Crushed blackberry, musky dark chocolate and flinty minerality on the nose. Dry and minerally,

with urgent blackberry fruit lifted by a strong violet quality. Finishes broad, subtle and long, with dusty, toothcoating tannins, a saline nuance and lingering notes of blackberry and licorice. A very successful

blend.

92

Sparkling Rose Malbec Mendoza 2010($24) (includes 15% pinot noir): Pale orange-pink. Strawberry, minerals and a leesy nuance on the slightly reduced nose. Dry, subtle and fine-grained, with discreet flavors of strawberry and brown spices.

Lovely understated sparkling wine with a firm, persistent finish and good cut.

89

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M Blend Mendoza 2009($24) (70% bonarda and 30% malbec): Good bright red-ruby. Sexy aromas of dark berries, smoke and game. Juicy, spicy and quite dry, with a slightly reductive character to the animal, saline and flinty

mineral flavors. Finishes with ripe tannins and very good length. This distinctive, chewy wine reminded me of a California charbono.

89

B O D E G A S E S C O R I H U E L A

Don Miguel Gascon Reserva Mendoza 2009($25) Good saturated medium ruby. High-pitched aromas of blackberry, licorice and spicecake. Broad, sweet and expressive if still a bit youthfully clenched. Black fruit and licorice flavors offer enticing

perfume. Finishes with firm tannins and lingering spice and mineral notes.

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B O D E G A S P O E S I A

Poesia Mendoza 2009(a 60/40 blend of malbec and cabernet, from vines planted in 1935): Good full red-ruby. Aromas of black raspberry, earth and mint are sexed up by new French oak notes of coffee, mocha and cedar. The

palate offers a sophisticated combination of rich, lush texture and restrained sweetness, with the raspberry, currant and licorice flavors lifted by enticing mineral/floral perfume. This gripping, vibrant, classy

wine finishes with smooth tannins that dust the entire mouth.

93

Pasodoble Mendoza 2009(a blend of 45% malbec, 35% syrah and 20% cabernet sauvignon): Dark red. Lightly liqueur-like aromas of currant, black raspberry, smoked meat and flinty minerality. Sweet, round and suave, with

smooth flavors of currant, mocha, chocolate, coffee and herbs. Finishes with sweet, even tannins and nice persistence. This harmonious blend is already quite accessible, delivering seductive sweetness

without any heaviness.

89

Torrontes Mendoza 2010Light-medium yellow. High-pitched aromas of tropical fruits, orange, ripe peach, rose petal and spices. Broad, dry and subtle, with a sexy umami texture and subtle flavor intensity. A distinctly

uncompromising style of torrontes with very good finishing grip.

88

B O D E G A S S A L E N T E I N

Malbec Reserve Valle De Uco 2010($19) Good saturated ruby. Dark berries, tobacco and earth on the nose, along with some chocolatey oak. Rich, lush and sweet, with a generous texture to the flavors of dark berries and chocolatey oak.

Quite ripe and plump but has good spine for its stuffing. Nicely persistent and smooth on the aftertaste.

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Malbec Killka Valle De Uco 2009($15) Good red-ruby. Restrained but pure aromas of black cherry and licorice lifted by spices. Juicy but imploded; a bit tart but nicely energetic. In a rather reserved, medicinal style, in need of a bit more

flesh and give. No easy sweetness here, but finishes with a smooth dusting of tannins and decent length.

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B R O A D B E N T

Malbec Mendoza 2010($15) Medium red. Plum, licorice, chocolate and spices on the nose. Supple and gentle but nicely vinous, with a saline nuance to the plum and licorice flavors. Offers moderate concentration and complexity

but this is very easy to drink. The firm finish offers a light dusting of tannins.

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B U D I N I

Chardonnay Mendoza 2011($12) Pale bright yellow. Musky aroma of citrus fruits and fresh apricot . Pure, round and fresh, with brisk, harmonious acidity giving shape and lift to the citrus and stone fruit flavors. This would make a

terrific by-the-glass pour for a restaurant. An excellent value in unoaked chardonnay.

88

Malbec Mendoza 2011($12) Dark red. Very primary aromas of blackberry, dark plum, licorice pastille and bitter chocolate. A sweet, sp icy midweight, with juicy, clean flavors of dark berries and spices. Not complex but boasts

good volume and freshness. Shows a very light touch with the oak.


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C A B A L L E R O D E L A C E P A

Malbec Reserva Mendoza 2010($17) Bright, dark red. Berries, mocha and licorice on the slightly liqueur-like nose. Supple, sweet and nicely concentrated, but could use more lift and definition to its dark raspberry and chocolate flavors.

Finishes with easygoing, dusty tannins and a note of menthol.

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C A M E R O N H U G H E S

Malbec Lot 262 Reserva Mendoza 2010Good red-ruby color. Pungent aromas of blackberry, licorice, wild herbs and black pepper, complicated by violet and game nuances: quite syrah-like. Rich, round and dry, with good energy to the flavors of

dark berries, flowers, meat and dark chocolate. Finishes uncompromisingly dry, with a fine dusting of tannins. Solid density and firm structure call for a year or two of patience.

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Malbec Lot 275 Reserva Mendoza 2010Bright ruby-red. Aromas of blackberry, violet and chocolatey oak. Broad, ripe and sweet, but with a bit less inner-mouth definition and perfume than the Lot 262 bottling. Chewy, saline and chocolatey wine

with a slightly syrupy quality and plenty of body and richness. Finishes firmly tannic, with good balancing flavors o f black raspberry and chocolate.

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C A R I N A E

Encuentro Barrel Select Mendoza 2008($50) (a blend of malbec, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot; 13.9% alcohol): Saturated ruby. Cass is, blackberry, licorice and violet on the nose, c omplemented by oak spices. At

once savory and sweet but with lovely reserve and saline complexity to the youthful dark berry and bitter chocolate flavors. Firmly structured wine, with broad, building tannins that coat the tongue and

reach the incisors.

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Bo Bo Gran Corte Mendoza 2008($60) (a 70/30 blend of malbec and cabernet franc): Bright full ruby. Blackberry, cassis, violet and a whiff of game on the nose. Juicy and sharply delineated, with penetrating flavors of black fruits and

violet face powder. Nicely balanced wine with firm tannic spine and a lingering flavor of bitter chocolate. A very successful, nuanced blend.

90

Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2009($32) (a 70/30 blend, aged for 12 months in new 300-liter American oak barrels): Bright medium red-ruby. Reduced nose hints at dark berries and chocolate. Lush and sweet on entry, the note of

reduction currently blunting the plum, cassis and licorice flavors. Then finishes a bit clenched, with the dark berry flavors showing a medicinal quality. This ripely tannic but slightly tart blend will need a few

years of patience.

89(+?)?

Prestige Mendoza 2008($49) (70% malbec, 25% cabernet sauvignon and 5% syrah; 15% alcohol): Full saturated ruby. Aromas of blackberry pastille, violet and menthol. Tactile, chewy and sweet, with an inky, extractive

character to the port-like dark berry, bitter chocolate and mocha flavors. Finishes with a boatload of slightly drying tannins.

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Syrah Reserva Mendoza 2010($19) (15.5% alcohol): Bright deep ruby. Black cherry and dark chocolate on the slightly porty nose. Fat, sweet and deep, with very ripe, rich flavors of blackberry, chocolate and violet face powder. A bit

musclebound and simple today but there's a major mouthful of fruit here. Finishes with broad, slightly drying tannins.

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C A S A M O N T E S

Malbec Alzamora Oak San Juan 2009($20) Bright, deep red-ruby. Good floral, spicy lift to the cur rant and cherry aromas. A juicy, spicy, moderately intense midweight; not fleshy but shows good floral, minty lift and perfume straight through

to the spicy back end. The tannins turn a bit dry with air. This is a moderate 13.7% alcohol.

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C A S A R E N A

Malbec Reserva Mendoza 2009($25) (from very young vines): Deep medium ruby. Blackberry, violet and coffee on the nose. Fat, rich, sweet and deep; more harmonious than the basic bottling of this wine but still carrying a full load of

mocha and coconut oak. Very smooth wine with enough lift and energy to carry the finish. The tannins are nicely coated by fruit. 91

Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva Mendoza 2009($25) Good bright medium ruby. Blackberry, cassis, menthol and licorice lifted by violet on the nose. Sweet, suave and harmonious; less open and pliant than the reserve malbec but balanced to reward a

couple years of patience. Finishes with serious ripe tannins and very good chocolatey persistence. A lot of wine for the price. 91

Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2010($17) (from 80-year-old vines): Good full ruby-red. Blackberry, menthol, licorice and bitter choco late, plus a whiff of roasted bell pepper. Plush and sweet but lively, offering a better integration of fruit and

acidity than the malbec. Very sexy, concentrated wine and a steal for the price. The spicy finish features suave tannins, a hint of menthol and lovely length. 90

Malbec Mendoza 2010($17) (done entirely in stainless steel): Saturated ruby-red. Sexy aromas of musky currant, blackberry and chocolate. Pure and sweet but nicely leavened by ripe acidity. There's a confectionery note here,

but this is lower in pH and alcohol than the 2009 version. Needs a year or so for its sugar and acidity to harmonize. Very attractive wine from young vines. And it's fascinating to taste malbec fruit without

oak. 89

Sauvignon Blanc Mendoza 2011($13) (done in stainless steel): Pale green-tinged yellow. Piquant, pure aromas of grapefruit, licorice and fresh herbs. Supple, fresh and ripe, with plump mid-palate flavors of lemon drop and grapefruit.

Seamless, fresh sauvignon blanc with nice length.88

C H A K A N A

Malbec Estate Selection Mendoza 2010($27) (from the property's best parcel): Bright ruby-red. Pure aromas of redcurrant, black cherry, licorice and minerals lifted by sexy oak. Suave, sweet and fine-grained if a bit youthfully unforthcoming

today. Harmonious acidity, an element of minerality and a cool suggestion of herbs energize the middle palate. Finishes broad and long, with sweet tannins and noteworthy finesse. Give this a year or two

in the cellar to develop more complexity.

90

Malbec Ayni Mendoza 2009($36) Full medium ruby. Pure, perfumed nose offers blackberry, violet and melted chocolate. Juicy, spicy and energetic, with harmonious acidity giving shape to the blackberry and bitter chocolate flavors.

A bit toughened by oak tannins today, but the wine's sweet, lingering finishing fruit suggests that all it needs is a bit more time in bottle.


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Sauvignon Blanc Maipe Mendoza 2011($13) Bright, pale yellow. Lively aromas of apple, lemon peel and clove, with some exotic tropical nuances. Dry, intense, spi cy and firmly built if not particularly complex; some CO2 and a citrus edge keep

the wine brisk. The tactile, dry finish features good cut and persistence.

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Malbec Nuna Reserve Mendoza 2010($17) Bright ruby-red. Slightly funky aromas and flavors of black plum, violet, spices, pepper and game. Dense and pliant but a bit reduced and primary, showing a restrained sweetness. The subtly

persistent finish features peppery, dusty, building tannins and a slight emerging greenness.

88Bonarda Nuna Reserve Mendoza 2010($17) Bright red-ruby. Plum, roasted strawberry, herbs and hints of chocolate and menthol on the nose. Smooth, pliant and nicely deep, with good concentration but limited nuance to the primary dark

plum and licorice flavors. Finishes with dusty tannins that coat the front teeth.

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Torrontes Maipe Salta 2011($13) (14.5% alcohol): Pale, bright green-tinged yellow. Lemon zest, white flowers, ginger and nutmeg on the nose. Supple and broad in the middle, but the wine's alcohol blurs its citrus and licorice

flavors. Offers good texture and breadth but finishes with some heat.

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C I E L O Y T I E R R A

Malbec Don Juan Nahuel Reserve Mendoza 2006($40) Ruby-red. Aromas of plum, brown spices and cedary oak. Fat, sweet and spicy, with strong chocolatey oak and a bit of alcoholic warmth currently dominating the wine's fruit. In a powerful but

extractive style, finishing a bit dusty and dry. (A second sample was similarly overwhelmed by its oak element.)

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C L O S D E C H A C R A S

Malbec Gran Estirpe Mendoza 2008($48) (aged 18 months in new French oak): Bright, saturated ruby. Blackberry and licoric e aromas lifted by spicy oak. Juicy, bright and modern, with strong, clean flavors of black cherry, dark berries,

spices and dark chocolate. Nicely integrated acidity and fine-grained tannins give this the balance and s tructure to develop nicely in bottle. Long and oaky on the aftertaste.

90(+?)

Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2008($32) (aged in 70% French and 30% American barrels, all once-used): Full, saturated medium ruby. Aromas of cassis, mocha and coffee, with a suggestion of stewed fruits. At once full-blown and juicy,

with currant and plum fruit complicated by oak notes of mocha and chocolate. Combines a slightly raisiny quality with a hint of spiky acidity. Finishes dry and chocolatey, with building tannins.

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C L O S D E L O S S I E T E

Clos De Los Siete Mendoza 2009($19) (a blend of 57% malbec, 15% merlot, 15% cabernet sauvignon, 10% s yrah and 3% petit verdot): Bright medium ruby. Sexy, nuanced aromas of blackberry, game, chocolate, herbs and smoky oak,

with suggestions of liqueur-like ripeness. Suave on entry, then dense and smooth in the middle, showing good violet lift to the intense black fruit flavors. The rising finish shows excellent retention o f fruit

and tannins that are firm but not hard. As usual, this bottling offers a lot of flavor for the price.

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C O L O M E

Torrontes Salta 2011($16) Bright, pale yellow. Very pure, perfumed aromas of ginger, licorice, rose petal and brown spices. Concentrated, s upple and ripe, with impressive sappy intensity to the flavors of spices and fresh

herbs. Builds nicely on the back half, finishing with lovely saline persistence and chewy grip.

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Malbec Estate Salta 2009($25) (blended with 8% tannat, 3% cabernet sauvignon and 2% each petit verdot and syrah; from vines planted between 7,200 and 10,200 feet above sea level): Good medium ruby. Sexy floral aromas of

blackberry, violet and licorice are complemented by a leesy nuance. Savory, juicy and intense, with the black fruit and violet flavors carrying through in the mouth. At once sexy and serious, finishing with

suave tannins and excellent savory persistence. This bottling has been consistently excellent in recent vintages, not to mention good value.

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Priced from: 18.75

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Malbec Reserve Salta 2008($75) (reportedly from vines between 90 and 150 years of age, planed an altitude of more than 7,500 feet; aged 24 months in new French oak; 15.9% alcohol): Saturated ruby color. Chocolatey, porty

nose. Fat, lush and sweet, with a slightly raisiny character to the superripe dark fruit and mocha flavors. Impressively rich and deep but in an extreme style. An earlier bottle was similarly huge and port-

like. The estate's regular 2009 malbec is more fun to drink than this rather aggressive reserve bottling, at one-third the price. Your move.

89?

Amalaya Red Wine Calchaquies 2010($15) (a blend of 75% malbec, 15% cabernet sauvignon and 5% each tannat and s yrah): Cherry liqueur, menthol, violet and spicy oak on the nose and palate. Suave, supple and energetic, with a

sugar/acid balance giving the mid-palate insidious intensity and good definition. Nicely rising, fine-grained finish shows good length and a light touch. Sophisticated for the price.

88Priced from: 17.99

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C O Q U E N A

Torrontes Salta 2011($20) Pale yellow. Slightly hazy unfiltered appearance. Citrus peel, apricot and a hint of tropical fruits on the nose, complicated by a subtle leesy nuance. Ripe, round and dry, with a seriously chewy, saline

mouth feel. Complex flavors of fruits, herbs, minerals and flowers. Finishes dry and long, with a strong impression of dusty minerality. (A second bottle was no less interesting but had even more

suspended sediment.)

90

Tannat Salta 2011($20) Medium ruby-red. Sexy perfume of crushed blackberry, blueberry, dark chocolate, violet and minerals; reminded me of syrah. Chewy, saline and savory, with strong blackberry fruit complemented by

a touch of oak (90% of this wine was aged in tank). Distinctive wine with very good grip. Will tannat be the next new thing from Salta?

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14/29

Malbec Salta 2011($20) Red-ruby. Blackberry, violet and menthol and a hint of graphite on the pure nose. Juicy, fruity and smooth, with a saline quality to the pristine dark berry flavors. Finishes with firm tannins and good

grip. This wine's high pH of 4.0 brings a somewhat saline character but there's enough energy to give it shape.

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C R U Z D E P I E D R A

Blend Mendoza 2007($39) (malbec, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot aged for 18 months in all-new French oak): Bright ruby-red. Cassis, violet and mineral aromas complemented by nutty, chocolatey oak. Supple, fat and

sweet, with enough depth to its dark berry, violet and menthol flavors to support its wood element. The finishes features good vinosity, sneaky length, and serious dusty tannins that reach the front teeth.

I'd give this a year or two to absorb some of its oak.

89(+?)

Cabernet Sauvignon Umbral De Los Tiempos Reserve Mendoza 2009($16) Full red. Currant, spicy oak, herbs, tobacco and pepper on the nose and palate. Easygoing, pliant and varietally accurate, offering modest complexity and a restrained sweetness. Dusty tannins reach

the incisors.

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C U V E L I E R L O S A N D E S

Malbec Colecion Mendoza 2010Bright red-ruby. Enticing aromas of black raspberry, blackberry, violet, licorice and dark chocolate. Dense, sweet and concentrated, with a saline complexity and harmonious acidity energizing the dark

berry flavors. Fine-grained malbec with good extract. Finishes a bit youthfully medicinal but with more grip than the 2009 version.

90

Cabernet Sauvignon Coleccion Mendoza 2010Good full, bright red. Musky aromas of currant, plum, chocolate and meat. Smooth, intense and varietally accurate, with good energy to the flavors of currant, plum, tobacco and earth. Finishes with sweet,

lightly dusty tannins, a note of cherry and solid structure.

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Priced from: 19.99

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D A N T E R O B I N O

Malbec Gran Dante Lujan De Cuyo 2008($30) Deep, bright ruby-red. Coffee and chocolate oak notes dominate the nose. Sweet, round and lush, with black fruit, plum syrup and chocolatey oak flavors complicated by a saline element. This rich,

fat, chewy wine finishes with substantial, oak-driven tannins, impressive chewiness and a faint dry edge to its dark fruit flavors.

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Bonarda Menodza 2010($13) Deep, bright ruby-red. Currant, licorice pastille, exotic flowers and sexy smoky oak on the nose. Intensely flavored and lively but a bit tart and generic: I would never have identified the variety.

Solidly made red wine with even tannins. Carrying a moderate 13.5% alcohol.

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D E L D E S I E R T O

Malbec La Pampa Patagonia 2009($30) (15.2% alcohol): Saturated ruby. Aromas of blackberry, plum, licorice and spicy oak. Juicy and energetic, with excellent lift and a strong oakiness to the dark berry flavors. In a rather extractive style

and a bit dry today, but this has the firm tannic spine and harmonious acidity to reward some bottle aging.

90(+?)

Cabernet Sauvignon 25/5 La Pampa Patagonia 2009($15) Bright red-ruby. Currant, chocolate and licorice on the slightly reduced nose. Sweet berry and chocolate flavors show moderate nuance, no doubt partly due to the wine's reductiveness. Good stuffing

here but a bit chunky, finishing with building tannins, a chocolatey flavor and a hint of alcoholic warmth.

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D E U M A Y E N W I N E S

Malbec Trez Reserva Mendoza 2008($24) Good full ruby-red. Ripe currant, blueberry, spicecake and sexy oak on the nose and palate. Suave, vinous and nicely delineated; a rather claret-like midweight with real energy. The berry flavors are

complicated by tobacco leaf and fresh herbs. Finishes sexy and long, with firm tannins and excellent intensity. More pr istine than the Petit Trez bottling.

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Malbec Petit Trez Mendoza 2010($16) Good bright, full red. Musky aromas of sour cherry, game and earth, perked up by a note of fruity Tellicherry pepper. Smooth and fresh in the mouth, with good intensity to the cherry, herb and

pepper flavors. Firm acidity and smooth tannins give this lively wine good structural support. Finis hes with smoke and earth notes. Some tasters may find this too wild.

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Tanzer-Argentina-2012

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