The Best of Hawaii

There’s no place on earth quite like this handful of sun-drenched, mid-Pacific islands.The Hawaii of South Seas literature and Hollywood films really does exist. Here you’llfind palm-fringed blue lagoons, lush rainforests, hidden gardens, cascading waterfalls,wild rivers running through rugged canyons, and soaring volcanoes. And oh, thosebeaches—gold, red, black, and even green sands caressed by an endless surf. The pos-sibilities for adventure—and relaxation—are endless. Each of the six main islands isseparate, distinct, and infinitely complex. There’s far too much to see and do on any2-week vacation, which is why so many people return to the Aloha State year afteryear.

Unfortunately, even paradise has its share of stifling crowds and tourist schlock. Ifyou’re not careful, your trip to Hawaii could turn into a nightmare of tourist traps sell-ing shells from the Philippines, hokey faux culture like cellophane-skirted huladancers, overpriced exotic drinks, and a 4-hour timeshare lecture before you get onthat “free” snorkeling trip. That’s where this guide comes in. As a Hawaii resident, Ican tell the extraordinary from the merely ordinary. This book will steer you awayfrom the crowded, the overrated, and the overpriced—and toward the best Hawaii hasto offer. No matter what your budget, this guide will help ensure that every dollar iswell spent.

1

• Lanikai Beach (Oahu): Too gor-geous to be real, this stretch along theWindward Coast is one of Hawaii’spostcard-perfect beaches—a mile ofgolden sand as soft as powdered sugarbordering translucent turquoisewaters. The waters are calm year-round and excellent for swimming,snorkeling, and kayaking. Two tinyoffshore islands complete the picture,functioning not only as scenic back-drops, but also as bird sanctuaries.See p. 180.

• Hapuna Beach (Big Island): Thishalf-mile-long crescent regularly winskudos in the world’s top travel maga-zines as the most beautiful beach inHawaii—some consider it one of the

most beautiful beaches in the world.One look and you’ll see why: Perfectcream-colored sand slopes down tocrystal-clear waters that are great forswimming, snorkeling, and bodysurf-ing in summer; come winter, wavesthunder in like stampeding horses.The facilities for picnicking andcamping are top-notch, and there’splenty of parking. See p. 307.

• Kapalua Beach (Maui): On an islandwith many great beaches, Kapaluatakes the prize. This golden crescentwith swaying palms is protected fromstrong winds and currents by two out-stretched lava-rock promontories. Itscalm waters are perfect for snorkeling,swimming, and kayaking. Facilities

1 The Best Beaches

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T H E B E S T B E A C H E S 5

The Hawaiian Islands

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include showers, restrooms, and life-guards. See p. 432.

• Papohaku Beach (Molokai): Thesegold sands stretch on for some 3 miles(it’s one of Hawaii’s longest beaches)and are about as wide as a footballfield. Offshore the ocean churnsmightily in winter, but the waves diedown in summer, making the calmwaters inviting for swimming. It’s alsogreat for picnicking, walking, andwatching sunsets. See p. 504.

• Hulopoe Beach (Lanai): Thisgolden, palm-fringed beach off thesouth coast of Lanai gently slopesdown to the azure waters of a MarineLife Conservation District, whereclouds of tropical fish flourish andspinner dolphins come to play. A tidepool in the lava rocks defines one sideof the bay, while the other is lorded

over by the Four Seasons ResortLanai at Manele Bay, which sitsprominently on the hill above. Off-shore you’ll find good swimming,snorkeling, and diving; onshorethere’s a full complement of beachfacilities, from restrooms to campingareas. See p. 532.

• Haena Beach (Kauai): Backed byverdant cliffs, this curvaceous NorthShore beach has starred as Paradise inmany a movie. It’s easy to see whyHollywood loves Haena Beach, withits grainy golden sand and translu-cent turquoise waters. Summermonths bring calm waters for swim-ming and snorkeling; winter bringsmighty waves for surfers. There areplenty of facilities on hand, includingpicnic tables, restrooms, and showers.See p. 593.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F H A W A I I6

• Hitting the Beach: A beach is abeach is a beach, right? Not inHawaii. With 132 islets, shoals, andreefs, plus a general coastline of 750miles, Hawaii has beaches in all differ-ent shapes, sizes, and colors, includingblack. The variety on the six majorislands is astonishing; you could go toa different beach every day for yearsand still not see them all. For the bestof a spectacular bunch, see “The BestBeaches,” above.

• Taking the Plunge: Don mask, fin,and snorkel to explore Hawaii’s mag-ical underwater world, where exoticcorals and kaleidoscopic clouds oftropical fish await you—a sea turtlemay even come over to check youout. Can’t swim? That’s no excuse—take one of the many submarine toursoffered by Atlantis Submarines(& 800/548-6262; www.go-atlantis.com) on Oahu, the Big Island, andMaui. Check out the “Watersports”

section in each island chapter formore information on all these under-water adventures.

• Meeting Local Folks: If you go toHawaii and see only people like theones back home, you might as wellnot have come. Extend yourself—leave your hotel, go out and meet thelocals, and learn about Hawaii and itspeople. Just smile and say “Owzit?”—which means “How is it?” (“It’sgood,” is the usual response)—andyou’re on your way to making a newfriend. Hawaii is remarkably cosmo-politan; every ethnic group in theworld seems to be represented here.There’s a huge diversity of food, cul-ture, language, and customs.

• Feeling History Come Alive atPearl Harbor (Oahu): The UnitedStates could turn its back on WorldWar II no longer after December 7,1941, when Japanese warplanesbombed Pearl Harbor. Standing on

2 The Best Island Experiences

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the deck of the USS Arizona Memo-rial (& 808/422-0561; www.nps.gov/usar)—the eternal tomb for the1,177 sailors and Marines trappedbelow when the battleship sank injust 9 minutes—is a moving experi-ence you’ll never forget. Also in PearlHarbor, you can visit the USS Mis-souri Memorial, where World War IIcame to an end. The Japanese signedtheir surrender on the deck of this58,000-ton battleship on September2, 1945. See p. 209.

• Watching for Whales: If you happento be in Hawaii during humpback-whale season (roughly Dec–Apr),don’t miss the opportunity to seethese gentle giants. A host of boats—from small inflatables to high-tech,high-speed sailing catamarans—offera range of whale-watching cruises onevery island. One of my favorites isalong the Big Island’s Kona Coast,where Captain Dan McSweeney’sYear-Round Whale-Watching Ad-ventures (& 808/322-0028; www.ilovewhales.com) takes you right tothe whales year-round (pilot, sperm,false killer, melon-headed, pygmykiller, and beaked whales call Hawaiihome even when humpbacks aren’t inresidence). A whale researcher formore than 25 years, Captain Dan fre-quently drops an underwater micro-phone or video camera into thedepths so you can listen to whalesongs and maybe even see what’sgoing on. See p. 311.

• Creeping up to the Ooze (BigIsland): Kilauea volcano has beenadding land to the Big Island contin-uously since 1983. In 2007, the vol-cano goddess Pele blew smoke andplumage into the air from the maincrater of Halemaumau. If conditionsare right, you can walk up to the red-hot lava and see it ooze along, or youcan stand at the shoreline and watch

with awe as 2,000°F (1,092°C)molten fire pours into the ocean. Youcan also take to the air in a helicopterand see the volcano goddess’s workfrom above. See p. 348.

• Going Big-Game Fishing off theKona Coast (Big Island): Don’t passup the opportunity to try your luckin the sportfishing capital of theworld, where 1,000-pound marlin aretaken from the sea just about everymonth of the year. Not looking to seta world record? Kona’s charter-boatcaptains specialize in conservationand will be glad to tag any fish youangle, and then let it go so someoneelse can have the fun of fighting abig-game fish tomorrow. See p. 316.

• Greeting the Rising Sun from atopHaleakala (Maui): Bundle up inwarm clothing, fill a thermos full ofhot java, and drive up to the summitto watch the sky turn from inky blackto muted charcoal as a small sliver oforange light forms on the horizon.There’s something about standing at10,000 feet, breathing in the rarefiedair, and watching the first rays of sunstreak across the sky. This is a mysti-cal experience of the first magnitude.See p. 464.

• Riding a Mule to Kalaupapa (Molo-kai): If you have only a day to spendon Molokai, spend it on a mule. Thetrek from “topside” Molokai toKalaupapa National Historical Park(Father Damien’s world-famous lepercolony) with Molokai Mule Ride(& 800/567-7550; www.muleride.com) is a once-in-a-lifetime adven-ture. The cliffs are taller than 300-story skyscrapers, but Buzzy Sproat’ssurefooted mules go up and down thenarrow 3-mile trail daily, rain orshine, and he’s never lost a rider or amount on the 26 switchbacks. Even ifyou can’t afford to mule or helicopterin, don’t pass up the opportunity to

T H E B E S T I S L A N D E X P E R I E N C E S 7

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see this hauntingly beautiful penin-sula. If you’re in good shape andbrought hiking boots with you, youcan get a permit (available at the trailhead) and hike down the trail. Theviews are breathtaking: You’ll see theworld’s highest sea cliffs and water-falls plunging thousands of feet intothe ocean. See p. 514.

• Taking a Day Trip to Lanai (fromMaui): If you’d like to visit Lanai buthave only a day to spare, considertaking a day trip. Trilogy (& 888/MAUI-800; www.sailtrilogy.com)offers an all-day sailing, snorkeling,and whale-watching adventure. Tril-ogy is the only outfitter with rights toHulopoe Beach, and the trip includesa minivan tour of the little isle

(pop. 3,500). You can also take Expe-ditions Lahaina/Lanai PassengerFerry (& 808/661-3756; www.go-lanai.com) from Maui to Lanai, andthen rent a four-wheel-drive vehiclefrom Dollar Rent-A-Car (& 800/588-7808) for a day of backcountryexploring and beach fun. See p. 441.

• Soaring over the Na Pali Coast(Kauai): This is the only way to seethe spectacular, surreal beauty ofKauai. Your helicopter will dip lowover razor-thin cliffs, fluttering pastsparkling waterfalls and swoopingdown into the canyons and valleys ofthe fabled Na Pali Coast. The onlyproblem is that there’s too muchbeauty to absorb, and it all goes by ina rush. See p. 614.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F H A W A I I8

• Volcanoes: The entire island chain ismade of volcanoes; don’t miss theopportunity to see one. On Oahu,the entire family can hike to the topof ancient, world-famous DiamondHead (p. 190). At the other end ofthe spectrum is fire-breathing Kilaueaat Hawaii Volcanoes National Park,on the Big Island, where you can getan up-close-and-personal experiencewith the red-hot lava ooze (p. 344).On Maui, Haleakala National Parkprovides a bird’s-eye view into a long-dormant volcanic crater (p. 464).

• Waterfalls: Rushing waterfalls thun-dering downward into sparklingfreshwater pools are some of Hawaii’smost beautiful natural wonders. Ifyou’re on the Big Island, stop byRainbow Falls (p. 344), in Hilo, orthe spectacular 442-foot Akaka Falls(p. 337), just outside Hilo. On Maui,the Road to Hana offers numerousviewing opportunities; at the end ofthe drive, you’ll find Oheo Gulch(also known as the Seven Sacred

Pools), with some of the most dra-matic and accessible waterfalls on theislands (p. 473). Kauai is loaded withwaterfalls, especially along the NorthShore and in the Wailua area, whereyou’ll find 40-foot Opaekaa Falls (p. 618), probably the best-lookingdrive-up waterfall on Kauai. Withscenic mountain peaks in the back-ground and a restored Hawaiian vil-lage on the nearby riverbanks, theOpaekaa Falls are what the tourist-bureau folks call an eye-poppingphoto op.

• Gardens: The islands are redolentwith the sweet scent of flowers. For aglimpse of the full breadth andbeauty of Hawaii’s spectacular rangeof tropical flora, we suggest spendingan afternoon at a lush garden. OnOahu, amid the high-rises of down-town Honolulu, the leafy oasis ofFoster Botanical Garden (p. 211)showcases 26 native Hawaiian treesand the last stand of several rare trees,including an East African, whose

3 The Best of Natural Hawaii

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white flowers bloom only at night.On the Big Island, Liliuokalani Gar-dens (p. 342), the largest formalJapanese garden this side of Tokyo,resembles a postcard from Asia, withbonsai, carp ponds, pagodas, andeven a moon-gate bridge. At Maui’sKula Botanical Garden (p. 468),you can take a leisurely self-guidedstroll through more than 700 nativeand exotic plants, including orchids,proteas, and bromeliads. On lushKauai, Na Aina Kai Botanical Gar-dens (p. 620), on some 240 acres, issprinkled with around 70 life-size(some larger-than-life-size) whimsicalbronze statues, hidden off the beatenpath of the North Shore.

• Marine Life Conservation Areas:Nine underwater parks are spreadacross Hawaii, most notably WaikikiBeach (p. 177) and Hanauma Bay(p. 177), on Oahu; Kealakekua Bay(p. 315), on the Big Island; Molo-kini, just off the coast of Maui (see“Watersports” in chapter 7); andLanai’s Manele and Hulopoe bays(p. 534). Be sure to bring snorkel gearto at least one of these wonderfulplaces during your vacation.

• Garden of the Gods (Lanai): Out onLanai’s north shore lies the ultimate

rock garden: a rugged, barren, beauti-ful place full of rocks strewn by vol-canic forces and molded by theelements into a variety of shapes andcolors—brilliant reds, oranges, ochers,and yellows. Scientists use phrasessuch as “ongoing posterosional event”or “plain and simple badlands” todescribe the desolate, windsweptplace. The ancient Hawaiians, how-ever, considered the Garden of theGods to be an entirely supernaturalphenomenon. Natural badlands ormystical garden? Take a four-wheel-drive trip out here and decide foryourself. See p. 538.

• Waimea Canyon (Kauai): This val-ley, known for its reddish lava beds,reminds everyone who sees it of Ari-zona’s Grand Canyon. Kauai’s versionis bursting with ever-changing color,just like its namesake, but it’ssmaller—only a mile wide, 3,567 feetdeep, and 12 miles long. All thisgrandeur was caused by a massiveearthquake that sent all the streamsflowing into a single river, which thencarved this picturesque canyon. Youcan stop by the road and look at it,hike down into it, or swoop throughit by helicopter. See p. 612.

T H E B E S T O F U N D E R W AT E R H A W A I I 9

• Hanauma Bay (Oahu): It can getcrowded, but for clear, warm, calmwaters; an abundance of fish that areso friendly they’ll swim right up toyour face mask; a beautiful setting;and easy access, there’s no place likeHanauma Bay. Just wade in waist-deep and look down to see more than50 species of reef and inshore fish.Snorkelers hug the safe, shallow innerbay—it’s like swimming in an out-door aquarium. Serious divers shoot“the slot,” a passage through the reef,

to enter Witch’s Brew, a turbulentcove. See p. 177.

• Kahaluu Beach (Big Island): Thecalm, shallow waters of Kahaluu areperfect for beginning snorkelers orthose who are unsure of their swim-ming abilities and want the comfort ofbeing able to stand up at any time.The sunlight through the shallowwaters casts a dazzling spotlight on thecolorful sea life and coral formations.If you listen closely, you can actuallyhear the parrotfish feeding. See p. 306.

4 The Best of Underwater Hawaii

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• Kealakekua Bay (Big Island): Mile-wide Kealakekua Bay, at the foot ofmassive U-shaped sea cliffs, is richwith marine life, snorkelers, and his-tory. A white obelisk marks the spotwhere, in 1778, the great British nav-igator Capt. James Cook, whocharted most of the Pacific, was killedby Hawaiians. The bay itself is amarine sanctuary that teems withschools of polychromatic tropicalfish. See p. 315.

• Molokini (Maui): The islet of Molo-kini is shaped like a crescent moonthat fell from the sky. Its shallow con-cave side serves as a sheltering back-stop against sea currents for tinytropical fish; its opposite side is adeepwater cliff inhabited by spinylobsters, moray eels, and white-tipped

sharks. Neophyte snorkelers shouldreport to the concave side, experi-enced scuba divers the other. Theclear water and abundant marine lifemake this islet off the Makena coastone of Hawaii’s most popular divespots, so expect crowds. See “Water-sports” in chapter 7.

• Kee Beach (Kauai): Where the roadends on the North Shore, you’ll finda dandy little reddish-gold beachalmost too beautiful to be real. It bor-ders a reef-protected cove at the footof fluted volcanic cliffs. Swimmingand snorkeling are safe inside the reef,where long-nosed butterfly fish flitterabout and schools of taape (bluestripesnapper) swarm over the coral. See p. 593.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F H A W A I I10

• Mauna Kea & Hapuna GolfCourses (Big Island; & 808/882-5400 for Mauna Kea Golf Course, & 808/880-3000 for Hapuna GolfCourse): The Mauna Kea GolfCourse, located out on the KohalaCoast, is everyone’s old favorite. Oneof the first fields of play to be carvedout of the black lava, the dramatic,always-challenging, par-72, 18-holechampionship course is still one ofHawaii’s top three. The ArnoldPalmer/Ed Seay–designed HapunaGolf Course rests in the rollingfoothills above Hapuna Beach PrinceHotel and provides a memorablelinks-style golf experience along withone of the best views of this unusualcoast. See p. 321.

• Mauna Lani Francis H. I’i BrownChampionship Courses (Big Island;& 808/885-6655): Mauna Lani’stwo resort courses, North and South,feature a combination of oceanfrontand interior lava-lined holes; bothoffer wonderful scenery accompanied

by strategic, championship-level golf.See p. 321.

• Kapalua Resort (Maui; & 877/KAPALUA): Kapalua is probably thebest nationally known golf resort inHawaii, thanks to the PGA MercedesChampionship played here each Jan-uary. The Bay and Village courses arevintage Arnold Palmer designs; thePlantation Course is a strong BenCrenshaw/Bill Coore design. See p. 453.

• Wailea Golf Club (Maui; & 808/875-7450): On Maui’s sunbakedsouth shore stands Wailea Resort, thehot spot for golf in the islands. Threeresort courses complement a string ofbeachfront hotels: The Blue Course isan Arthur Jack Snyder design, whileRobert Trent Jones, Jr., is the master-mind behind the Emerald and Goldcourses. All three boast outstandingviews of the Pacific and the mid-Hawaiian islands. See p. 454.

• The Lanai Courses (Lanai): Forquality and seclusion, nothing in

5 The Best Golf Courses

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Hawaii can touch Lanai’s two resortofferings. The Experience at Koele,designed by Ted Robinson and GregNorman, and the Challenge atManele, a wonderful Jack Nicklauseffort with ocean views from everyhole, both rate among Hawaii’s bestcourses. See p. 536.

• Poipu Bay Golf Course (Kauai; & 808/742-8711): On Kauai’s flat,dry south shore is a 210-acre, links-style course designed by Robert TrentJones, Jr. The course, which for yearshosted the PGA Grand Slam of Golf,is not only scenically spectacular, butalso a lot of fun to play. A flock ofnative Hawaiian nene geese frequents

the course’s lakes, and you can oftensee whales, monk seals, and green seaturtles along the shore. See p. 607.

• Princeville Golf Club (Kauai; & 800/826-1105): Here you’ll find45 of the best tropical holes of golf inthe world, all the work of RobertTrent Jones, Jr. They range alonggreen bluffs below sharp mountainpeaks and offer stunning views inevery direction. The 18-hole PrinceCourse, one of the top three coursesin Hawaii, provides a round of golffew ever forget—among 390 acres of scenic tableland bisected by tropi-cal jungles, waterfalls, streams, andravines. See p. 607.

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• Experiencing the Hula: For a real,authentic hula experience on Oahu,check out the Bishop Museum(p. 203), which has excellent per-formances on weekdays, or head tothe Halekulani’s House Without aKey (p. 126) at sunset to watch theenchanting Kanoelehua Miller dancebeautiful hula under a century-oldkiawe tree. The first week after Easterbrings Hawaii’s biggest and mostprestigious hula extravaganza, theMerrie Monarch Hula Festival(p. 365), in Hilo on the Big Island;tickets sell out by January 30, soreserve early. In May, Molokai holdsthe Ka Hula Piko Festival (p. 508)at Papohaku Beach Park, a wonderfuldaylong affair that celebrates the hulaon the island where it was born.

• Watching the Ancient HawaiianSport of Canoe Paddling (Oahu):From February to September, onweekday evenings and weekend days,hundreds of canoe paddlers gather atAla Wai Canal and practice theHawaiian sport of canoe paddling.Find a comfortable spot at Ala Wai

Park, next to the canal, and watchthis ancient sport come to life.

• Attending a Hawaiian-LanguageChurch Service (Oahu): KawaiahaoChurch (& 808/522-1333) is theWestminster Abbey of Hawaii. Thevestibule is lined with portraits of theHawaiian monarchy, many of whomwere crowned in this very building.The coral church is a perfect setting inwhich to experience an all-Hawaiianservice, held every Sunday at 9am,complete with Hawaiian song. Admis-sion is free; let your conscience be yourguide as to a donation. See p. 207.

• Buying a Lei in Chinatown (Oahu):There’s actually a host of culturalsights and experiences to be had in Honolulu’s Chinatown. Wanderthrough this several-square-block areawith its jumble of exotic shops offer-ing herbs, Chinese groceries, andacupuncture services. Before youleave, be sure to check out the lei sell-ers on Maunakea Street (near N.Hotel St.), where Hawaii’s finest leisgo for as little as $5. If you’d like a lit-tle guidance, you can follow thewalking tour on p. 215.

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• Listening to Old-Fashioned “TalkStory” with Hawaiian Song andDance (Big Island): Once a month,under a full moon, Twilight atKalahuipua’a, a celebration of theHawaiian culture that includes story-telling, singing, and dancing, takesplace ocean-side at Mauna LaniResort (& 808/885-6622; www.maunalani.com/luxury-hawaii-resort-factsheet.htm). It hearkens back toanother time in Hawaii, when familyand neighbors would gather on backporches to sing, dance, and “talkstory.” See p. 365.

• Visiting Ancient Hawaii’s MostSacred Temple (Big Island): On theKohala Coast, where King Kame-hameha the Great was born, standsHawaii’s oldest, largest, and mostsacred religious site: the 1,500-year-old Mookini Heiau, used by kings topray and offer human sacrifices. Thismassive three-story stone temple,

dedicated to Ku, the Hawaiian god ofwar, was erected in A.D. 480. It’s saidthat each stone was passed from handto hand from Pololu Valley, 14 milesaway, by 18,000 men who workedfrom sunset to sunrise. The best wayto see this sacred site is to help outwith the monthly cleanups when thekahuna nui (high priestess), MomiMookini Lum, is on-site. See p. 332.

• Hunting for Petroglyphs (BigIsland): Archaeologists are still uncer-tain exactly what these ancient rockcarvings—the majority of which arefound in the 233-acre Puako Petro-glyph Archaeological District, nearMauna Lani Resort on the KohalaCoast—mean. The best time to huntfor these intricate depictions ofancient life is either early in themorning or late afternoon, when theangle of the sun lets you see the formsclearly. See p. 331.

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The Welcoming Lei

Nothing makes you feel more welcome than a lei. The tropical beauty of thedelicate garland, the deliciously sweet fragrance of the blossoms, the sen-sual way the flowers curl softly around your neck—there’s no doubt aboutit: Getting lei’d in Hawaii is a sensuous experience.

Leis are much more than just a decorative necklace of flowers—they’realso one of the nicest ways to say “hello,” “goodbye,” “congratulations,” “Isalute you,” “my sympathies are with you,” or “I love you.”

During ancient times, leis given to alii (royalty) were accompanied by abow, since it was kapu (forbidden) for a commoner to raise his arms higherthan the king’s head. The presentation of a kiss with a lei didn’t come aboutuntil World War II; it’s generally attributed to an entertainer who kissed anofficer on a dare and then quickly presented him with her lei, saying it wasan old Hawaiian custom. It wasn’t then, but it sure caught on fast.

Lei making is a tropical art form. All leis are fashioned by hand in a vari-ety of traditional patterns; some are sewn with hundreds of tiny blooms orshells, or bits of ferns and leaves. Some are twisted, some braided, somestrung. Every island has its own special flower lei—the lei of the land, so tospeak. On Oahu, the choice is ilima, a small orange flower. Big Islanders

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• Exploring Puuhonua O HonaunauNational Historical Park (BigIsland): This sacred site on the south-ern Kona Coast was once a place ofrefuge and a revered place of rejuve-nation. You can walk the same conse-crated grounds where priests onceconducted holy ceremonies andglimpse the ancient way of life in pre-contact Hawaii in the re-created 180-acre village. See p. 330.

• Visiting the Most Hawaiian Isle(Molokai): A time capsule of oldHawaii, Molokai allows you to

experience real Hawaiian life in itsmost unsullied form. The island’speople have woven the cultural valuesof ancient times into modern life. Inaddition to this rich community,you’ll find the magnificent naturalwonders it so cherishes: Hawaii’shighest waterfall, its greatest collec-tion of fish ponds, and the world’stallest sea cliffs, as well as sand dunes,coral reefs, rainforests, and gloriouslyempty beaches. The island is prettymuch the same Molokai of genera-tions ago. See chapter 8.

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prefer the lehua, a large, delicate red puff. On Maui, it’s the lokelani, a smallrose; on Kauai, it’s the mokihana, a fragrant green vine and berry; onMolokai, it’s the kukui, the white blossom of a candlenut tree; and on Lanai,it’s the kaunaoa, a bright yellow moss. Residents of Niihau use the island’sabundant seashells to make leis that were once prized by royalty and arenow worth a small fortune.

Leis are available at all of the islands’ airports, from florists, and even atsupermarkets. You can find wonderful inexpensive leis at the half-dozen leishops on Maunakea Street in Honolulu’s Chinatown, and at Greene AcresLeis (& 808/329-2399), off Kaimiminani Drive in the Kona Palisades subdivi-sion, across from the Kona Airport on the Big Island. If you plan ahead, youcan also arrange to have a lei-greeter meet you as you deplane; Greeters ofHawaii (& 800/366-8559 or 808/836-3246) serves the Honolulu (Oahu), Kona(Big Island), Kahului (Maui), and Lihue (Kauai) airports.

Leis are the perfect symbol for the islands: They’re given in the moment,and their fragrance and beauty are enjoyed in the moment, but even afterthey fade, their spirit of aloha lives on. Welcome to Hawaii!

• Halekulani (Oahu; & 800/367-2343; www.halekulani.com): Whenprice is no object, this is really theonly place to stay. An oasis of calmamid the buzz, this beach hotel is thefinest Waikiki has to offer (heck, Ithink it’s the finest in the state). Evenif you don’t stay here, pop by for a

sunset mai tai to hear Sonny Kame-hele sing the old hapa-haole tunes ofthe 1930s and 1940s while a lovelyhula dancer sways to the music. Seep. 126.

• Royal Hawaiian (Oahu; & 800/325-3535; www.royal-hawaiian.com):This flamingo-pink oasis, hidden

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away among blooming gardenswithin the concrete jungle of Wai-kiki, is a symbol of luxury. You canstep back in time by staying in therooms in the Historic Wing, whichcontain carved wooden doors, four-poster canopy beds, flowered wallpa-per, and period furniture. One ofWaikiki’s best spas, Abhasa (& 808/922-8200; www.abhasa.com), islocated on the property. See p. 127.

• Kahala Hotel & Resort (Oahu; & 800/367-2525; www.kahalaresort.com): After 11 years under the helmof the Mandarin Oriental Group, thisgrand old hotel changed manage-ment in 2006. The new firm prom-ises to restore this elegant property towhat it once was. The location aloneoffers a similarly wonderful com-promise: Situated in one of Oahu’smost prestigious residential areas, theKahala offers the peace and serenityof a neighbor-island vacation, butwith the conveniences of Waikiki justa 10-minute drive away. The lush,tropical grounds include an 800-footcrescent-shaped beach and a 26,000-square-foot lagoon (home to two bot-tle-nosed dolphins, sea turtles, andtropical fish). See p. 141.

• Four Seasons Resort Hualalai atHistoric Kaupulehu (Big Island; & 888/340-5662; www.fourseasons.com/hualalai): Private pools, unim-peded ocean views, excellent food,and a new 18-hole championship golfcourse—what more could any mortalwant? This new low-impact, high-ticket hideaway under the dormantHualalai Volcano ups the ante withits residential resort of two-story bun-galows clustered around five seasideswimming pools on a black lagoon.See p. 263.

• Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bunga-lows (Big Island; & 800/367-2323;www.panpacific.com/maunalanibay):

Burned out? In need of tranquillityand gorgeous surroundings? Look nofurther. Sandy beaches and lava tidepools are the focus of this serene sea-side resort, where gracious hospitalityis dispensed in a historic setting.From the lounge chairs on the pris-tine beach to the turndown service atnight, everything here is done impec-cably. The rooms are arranged to cap-ture maximum ocean views, and theysurround interior atrium gardens andpools in which endangered baby seaturtles are raised. A shoreline trailleads across the whole 3,200-acreresort, giving you an intimate glimpseinto the ancient past, when peoplelived in lava caves and tended the largecomplex of fish ponds. See p. 274.

• The Fairmont Orchid Hawaii (BigIsland; & 800/845-9905; www.fairmont.com/orchid): Located on 32acres of oceanfront property, theOrchid is the place for watersportsnuts, cultural explorers, families withchildren, or anyone who just wants tolie back and soak up the sun. Thiselegant beach resort takes full advan-tage of the spectacular ocean viewsand historic sites on its grounds. Thesports facilities here are extensive, andthere’s an excellent Hawaiiana pro-gram. See p. 275.

• The Fairmont Kea Lani Maui(Maui; & 800/659-4100; www.fairmont.com/kealani): This is theplace to get your money’s worth: Forthe price of a hotel room, you get anentire suite—plus a few extras. Eachunit in this all-suite luxury hotel has akitchenette, a living room with enter-tainment center and sofa bed (great ifyou have the kids in tow), a marblewet bar, an oversize marble bathroomwith separate shower big enough for aparty, a spacious bedroom, and a largelanai that overlooks the pools, lawns,and white-sand beach. See p. 399.

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• Four Seasons Resort Maui atWailea (Maui; & 800/334-MAUI;www.fourseasons.com/maui): This isthe ultimate beach hotel for latter-day royals, with excellent cuisine,spacious rooms, gracious service, andWailea Beach, one of Maui’s bestgold-sand strips, out the front door.Every guest room has at least a partialocean view from a private lanai. Theluxury suites, as big as some Hono-lulu condos, are full of marble anddeluxe appointments. See p. 400.

• Hotel Hana-Maui (Maui; & 800/321-HANA; www.hotelhanamaui.com): Picture Shangri-La, Hawaiianstyle: 66 acres rolling down to the seain a remote Hawaiian village, with awellness center, two pools, and accessto one of the best beaches in Hana.Cathedral ceilings, a plush featherbed, a giant-size soaking tub, Hawai-ian artwork, bamboo hardwoodfloors—this is luxury. The white-sandbeach (just a 5-min. shuttle away), atop-notch wellness center with someof the best massage therapists inHawaii, and numerous activities(horseback riding, mountain biking,tennis, pitch-and-putt golf ) all addup to make this one of the top resortsin the state. I highly recommend thislittle slice of paradise. See p. 406.

• Four Seasons Resort Lanai atManele Bay (Lanai; & 800/321-4666; www.fourseasons.com/lanai):The well-known luxury hotel chainFour Seasons took over managementof this 236-unit resort after a multi-million-dollar makeover in 2005.Perched on a sun-washed southernbluff overlooking Hulopoe Beach, oneof Hawaii’s best stretches of goldensand, this U-shaped hotel steps downthe hillside to the pool and the beach.Designed as a traditional luxurybeachfront hotel, the Manele Bay fea-tures open, airy, oversize rooms, each

with a breathtaking view of the bigblue Pacific. The guest rooms havebeen redone in the clean, crisp style ofan elegant Hawaiian resort, with 40-inch flatscreen TVs, huge marblebathrooms, and semiprivate lanais. Seep. 527.

• Four Seasons Resort Lanai, TheLodge at Koele (Lanai; & 800/321-4666; www.fourseasons.com/lanai):The sister hotel to Manele Bay (seeabove), this luxury resort was reno-vated and rebranded a Four Seasonsin 2006. A $50-million renovationgave all 102 guest rooms new carpet-ing, glass bath partitions, signatureFour Seasons beds, 42-inch flatscreenTVs, new furniture, new fabrics, andhigh-speed Internet service. This inn,which resembles a grand Englishcountry estate, was built in 1991 andneeded the makeover—the new lookis spectacular. See p. 528.

• Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa(Kauai; & 800/55-HYATT; www.kauai.hyatt.com): This Art Decobeach hotel recalls Hawaii in the1920s—before the crash—when gen-tlemen in blue blazers and ladies insummer frocks came to the islands tolearn to surf and play the ukulele.The architecture and location, on thesunny side of Kauai, make this theisland’s best hotel. The beach is a bittoo rough for swimming, but the salt-water swimming pool is the biggeston the island. An old-fashioned read-ing room by the sea houses clubchairs, billiards, and a bar well stockedwith cognac and port. Nearby diver-sions include golf, horseback riding,and the shops of Koloa, a formerplantation town. See p. 554.

• Princeville Resort (Kauai; & 800/826-4400; www.princevillehotelhawaii.com): This palace of greenmarble and sparkling chandeliersrecalls Hawaii’s monarchy period of

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the 19th century. It’s set in one of themost remarkable locations in theworld, on a cliff between the crystal-blue waters of Hanalei Bay andsteepled mountains; you arrive on theninth floor and go down to get to the

beach. Opulent rooms with magnifi-cent views and all the activities ofPrinceville and Hanalei make thisone of Hawaii’s finest resorts. See p. 567.

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• New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel(Oahu; & 800/356-8264; www.kaimana.com): This is one of Wai-kiki’s best-kept secrets: a boutiquehotel nestled right on a lovely stretchof beach at the foot of DiamondHead, with Kapiolani Park just acrossthe street. The Waikiki-side guestrooms are teeny-tiny, with barelyroom for two, but they are tastefullydecorated and open onto lanais withocean and park views (plus they startat just $144 a night). A good budgetbuy is the park-view studio withkitchen. You can stock up with provi-sions from the on-site Mini-Mart.See p. 137.

• Ke Iki Beach Bungalows (Oahu; & 866/638-8229; www.keikibeach.com): This collection of studio andone- and two-bedroom cottagessnuggled on a large lot with its own200-foot stretch of white-sand beachbetween two legendary surf spots(Waimea Bay and Banzai Pipeline)has been totally renovated to the tuneof $1 million. Most units are com-pact—the kitchens and living roomsare small and the bedrooms evensmaller—but they’re affordable, withrates starting at $130 a night. Andwith the ocean just outside, howmuch time are you going to spendinside anyway? The winter waves aretoo rough for most swimmers, butthere’s a large lava reef nearby withtide pools to explore and, on theother side, Shark’s Cove, a relativelyprotected snorkeling area. Nearby aretennis courts and a jogging path. All

units have full kitchens and their ownbarbecue areas. See p. 145.

• Kona Tiki Hotel (Big Island; & 808/329-1425; www.konatiki.com): Right on the ocean, away fromthe hustle and bustle of downtownKailua-Kona, is one of the bestbudget deals in Hawaii: tastefullydecorated rooms with private lanaisoverlooking the ocean, starting at just$69 a night! Although it’s called ahotel, this small, family-run opera-tion is more like a large B&B, withplenty of friendly conversationaround the pool at the morning con-tinental breakfast buffet. See p. 268.

• Holualoa Inn (Big Island; & 800/392-1812; www.holualoainn.com):The quiet, secluded setting of thisB&B—on 30 pastoral acres just offthe main drag of the artsy village ofHolualoa, 1,350 feet above Kailua-Kona—provides stunning panoramicviews of the entire coast. This con-temporary 7,000-square-foot Hawai-ian home built of golden woods hassix private suites (starting at $260)and window-walls that roll back toembrace the gardens and views. Cowsgraze on the bucolic pastures belowthe garden Jacuzzi and pool, and thecoffee plantation on the property isthe source of the morning brew. Seep. 269.

• Waipio Wayside Bed & BreakfastInn (Big Island; & 800/833-8849;www.waipiowayside.com): JackieHorne renovated this 1938 HamakuaSugar supervisor’s home—nestledamong fruit trees and surrounded by

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sweet-smelling ginger, fragile orchids,and blooming birds-of-paradise—and transformed it into a graciousB&B. Just minutes from the WaipioValley Lookout and the village ofHonokaa, this comfy five-bedroomhouse abounds with thoughtfultouches, such as a help-yourself tea-and-cookies bar with 26 differentkinds of tea. Jackie’s friendly hospital-ity and excellent continental break-fasts really round out the experience.Rooms start at $99 for two. See p. 279.

• Old Wailuku Inn at Ulupono(Maui; & 800/305-4899; www.mauiinn.com): This 1924 formerplantation manager’s home, lovinglyrestored, offers a genuine old Hawaiiexperience. The theme is Hawaii ofthe 1920s and 1930s, with decor,design, and landscaping to match.The spacious rooms are gorgeouslyoutfitted with exotic ohia-woodfloors, high ceilings, and traditionalHawaiian quilts. A full gourmetbreakfast is served on the enclosedback lanai or, if you prefer, deliveredto your room. The inn is located inthe old historic area of Wailuku,about 10 to 15 minutes to the beach.Once you settle in, you may not wantto leave—and with rooms starting at$150 for a double, you can afford tostay a while. See p. 377.

• Pineapple Inn Maui (Maui; & 877/212-MAUI [6284]; www.pineappleinnmaui.com): This charming inn(only four rooms, plus a cottage) isnot only an exquisite find, but also aterrific value. Located in the residen-tial Maui Meadows area, with pano-ramic ocean views, this two-story innis expertly landscaped, with a lilypond in the front and a giant saltwa-ter pool and Jacuzzi overlooking theocean. Each of the soundproof roomsis expertly outfitted with a small

kitchenette, a comfy bed, free wirelessInternet access, TV/VCR, and anincredible view off your own privatelanai. Prices start at $119. If you needmore room, there’s also a darling two-bedroom, one-bathroom cottage. Seep. 397.

• Dunbar Beachfront Cottages (Molo-kai; & 800/673-0520; www.molokai-beachfront-cottages.com):Each of these green-and-white plan-tation-style cottages sits on its ownsecluded beach—you’ll feel likeyou’re on your own private island.Impeccable decor, a magical setting,and reasonable rates ($170 for two)make these cottages a must-stay. Seep. 500.

• Hotel Lanai (Lanai; & 800/795-7211; www.hotellanai.com): Lanai’sonly budget lodging is a simple,down-home, plantation-era relic thathas recently been Laura Ashley–ized.The Hotel Lanai is homey, funky,and fun—and, best of all, a real bar-gain (starting at $139 for two), com-pared to its ritzy neighbors. See p. 529.

• Kauai Country Inn (Kauai; & 808/821-0207; www.kauaicountryinn.com): This old-fashioned countryinn, nestled in the rolling hills behindKapaa, seems too good to be true.Each of the four suites (starting atjust $99) is uniquely decorated inHawaiian Art Deco, complete withhardwood floors, private bathroom,kitchen or kitchenette, your owncomputer with high-speed Internetconnection, and lots of little extraamenities. Everything is top-drawer,from the furniture to the Sub-Zerorefrigerator. The owners recentlyadded a two-bedroom country cot-tage for families with young children.The grounds are immaculate, andyou can pick as much organic fruit asyou want. See p. 565.

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• Hanalei Surf Board House (Kauai;808/826-9825; www.hanaleisurfboardhouse.com): Book well inadvance—this place is so fabulous, itwill go fast! Just a block from thebeach, these two incredibly deco-rated studio units are a steal at $175.Host Simon Potts, a former record-company executive from England,has filled his two studios (with kitch-enettes) with imaginative decor

choices: One of them sports a whim-sical cowgirl theme, while the otheris filled with Elvis memorabilia. Butthe best reason to stay here (besidesthe 2-min. walk to the beach and the10-min. walk to downtown Hanalei)is Simon himself: His stories aboutthe record industry will keep youhowling with laughter for hours. Seep. 570.

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• Hilton Hawaiian Village BeachResort & Spa (Oahu; & 800/HILTONS; www.hiltonhawaiianvillage.com): The Rainbow Express,Hilton’s year-round daily program ofactivities for children ages 5 to 12,offers a wide range of educational andfun activities for $60 per half-day (noexcursions) to $90 for a full day withexcursions, including lunch. Every-thing about this hotel is kid-friendly,from the wildlife parading about thegrounds to the submarine divesoffered just out front. See p. 121.

• JW Marriott Ihilani Resort & Spaat Ko Olina Resort (Oahu; & 800/626-4446; www.ihilani.com): Thisresort on Oahu’s virgin leeward coastis a haven of relaxation and tropicalfun for travelers of all ages. The KeikiBeachcomber Club, for children ages5 to 12, is available daily. Activities(9am–3pm) range from kite flying,tide-pool exploration, and snorkelingto Hawaiian cultural activities. Thecost ranges from $42 per child for ahalf-day with lunch to $60 for fullday. See p. 145.

• Kona Village Resort (Big Island; & 800/367-5290; www.konavillage.com): This is a parent’s dream: cus-tom-designed programs to entertainyour kids, from tots to teenagers,from dawn to well after dusk, all at

no charge. There’s even a dinner seat-ing for children, so Mom and Dadcan enjoy an intimate dinner for twolater in the evening. See p. 264.

• The Fairmont Orchid Hawaii (BigIsland; & 800/845-9905; www.fairmont.com/orchid): The KeikiAloha program, for kids 5 to 12 yearsold, features supervised activitiesfrom watersports to Hawaiian cul-tural games for $85 for a full day. Theresort has some great money-savingdeals, too; for example, children 5and under eat free at various restau-rants on the property. See p. 275.

• Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa(Maui; & 800/233-1234; www.maui.hyatt.com): The Camp Hyattprogram, for kids 5 to 12 years old,operates daily from 9am to 3pm andoffers young guests a range of activi-ties, from “Olympic Games” to ascavenger hunt. The cost starts at $40for a half-day and goes up to $70 fora full day. See p. 383.

• Four Seasons Resort Maui atWailea (Maui; & 800/334-MAUI;www.fourseasons.com/maui): Themost kid-friendly hotel on Maui notonly offers a complimentary kids’program year-round and an everydayactivities center (daily 9am–5pm),but also makes children feel welcomewith extras such as complimentary

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milk and cookies on their first dayand children’s menus at all resortrestaurants (and even from roomservice). See p. 400.

• Aloha Beach House (Molokai; & 888/828-1008; www.molokaivacation.com): This Hawaiian-stylebeach house sits right on the white-sand beach of Waialua in the lushEast End. Perfect for families, thisimpeccably decorated, two-bedroom,1,600-square-foot property has ahuge, airy living/dining/kitchen areathat opens onto an old-fashionedporch perfect for meals or just sittingin the comfy chairs and watching theclouds roll by. It’s fully equipped, fromthe complete kitchen to a VCR (plus alibrary of videos) to all the beach toysyou can think of. See p. 499.

• Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa(Kauai; & 800/55-HYATT; www.kauai.hyatt.com): In addition to theCamp Hyatt program for kids 3 to 12(costs start at $45 for a half-day andgo up to $70 for a full day), it’s thecollection of swimming pools—freshwater and salt, with slides,waterfalls, and secret lagoons—thatmakes this oceanfront Hyatt a realkids’ paradise. During the summermonths and the holiday season,there’s Rock Hyatt, an activity roomfor teens to gather in and play elec-tronic games. Summertime alsoboasts theater nights, when the wholefamily can enjoy a showing of one ofthe more than 400 movies filmed onKauai. See p. 554.

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• SpaHalekulani at the Halekulani(Oahu; & 808/923-2311; www.halekulani.com): This is Waikiki’sfirst spa to explore the healing tradi-tions of the Pacific islands, includingHawaii. Like everything else at thetop-rated Halekulani hotel, it’s truly aheavenly experience, from the timeyou step into the elegantly appointed,intimate spa and experience the footmassage, to the last whiff of fragrantmaile, the signature scent. Spa con-noisseurs should try somethingunique, like the Polynesian Nonu, aSamoan-inspired massage usingstones. See p. 126.

• Spa Suites at the Kahala Hotel &Resort (Oahu; & 808/739-8938;www.kahalaresort.com): The Kahalahas taken the concept of spa as a jour-ney into relaxation to a new level,with former garden rooms convertedinto individual spas, each with aglass-enclosed shower, private chang-ing area, infinity-edge soaking Jacuzzitub, and personal relaxation area. No

detail is overlooked, from the warmfoot bath when you arrive to therefreshing hot tea served on your per-sonal enclosed garden lanai after yourtreatment. See p. 141.

• Spa Luana at Turtle Bay Resort(Oahu; & 808/447-6868; www.turtlebayresort.com): This Zen-likespa, positioned on the ground floorfacing the ocean, has six treatmentrooms, a meditation waiting area, anoutdoor workout area, plus a com-plete fitness center and a private ele-vator to the rooms on the secondfloor, reserved for guests getting spatreatments. See p. 144.

• Ihilani Spa at the JW Marriott Ihi-lani Resort (Oahu; & 808/679-0079; www.ihilani.com): An oasis bythe sea, this free-standing 35,000-square-foot facility is dedicated to thetraditional spa definition of “healthby water.” The modern, multistoriedspa, filled with floor-to-ceiling glasslooking out on green tropical plants,combines Hawaiian products with

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traditional therapies to produce someof the best water treatments in thestate. You’ll also find a fitness center,tennis courts, and a bevy of aerobicand stretching classes. See p. 145.

• Hualalai Sports Club & Spa at theFour Seasons Resort Hualalai atHistoric Kaupulehu (Big Island; & 808/325-8000; www.fourseasons.com/hualalai): It’s easy to see why

some 6,000 Condé Nast Traveler read-ers voted this 13,000-square-footfacility their favorite resort spa. Fiveof its 16 treatment rooms arethatched huts (with bamboo privacyscreens) nestled into a tropical gar-den. This is the place to come to bepampered. The fitness facilities,classes, and adventure activities are allexcellent, but the attentive service

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Pampering in Paradise

Hawaii’s spas have raised the art of relaxation and healing to a new level.The traditional Greco-Roman-style spas have evolved into airy, open facili-ties that embrace the tropics. Spa-goers in Hawaii want to hear the soundof the ocean, smell the salt air, and feel the caress of the warm breeze. Theywant to experience Hawaiian products and traditional treatments they canget only here.

Today’s spas offer a wide diversity of treatments. Massage optionsinclude Hawaiian lomilomi, Swedish, aromatherapy, craniosacral (massag-ing the head), shiatsu (no oil, just deep thumb pressure on acupuncturepoints), Thai (another oilless massage involving stretching), and hot stone.There are even side-by-side massages for couples, and duo massages—twomassage therapists working on you at once.

Body treatments, for the entire body or just the face, involve a variety ofherbal wraps, masks, or scrubs using a range of ingredients from seaweedto salt to mud, with or without accompanying aromatherapy.

After you have been rubbed and scrubbed, most spas offer an array ofwater treatments—a sort of hydromassage in a tub with jets and an assort-ment of colored crystals, oils, and scents.

Those are just the traditional treatments. Most spas also offer a range ofalternative healthcare like acupuncture and chiropractic, and more exotictreatments like ayurvedic and siddha from India or reiki from Japan. Someoffer cutting-edge treatments, like the Grand Wailea Resort’s full-spectrumcolor-light therapy pod (based on NASA’s work with astronauts).

Spas also offer a range of fitness facilities (weights, racquetball, tennis,golf) and classes (yoga, aerobics, spinning, tai chi, kickboxing). Several evenoffer adventure fitness packages (from bicycling to snorkeling). For the lessactive, most spas also have salons dedicated to hair and nail care.

Of course, all this pampering doesn’t come cheap. Massages are gener-ally $170 to $275 for 50 minutes and $275 to $295 for 80 minutes; bodytreatments are in the $150 to $250 range; and alternative healthcare treat-ments can be as high as $200 to $300. But you may think it’s worth theexpense to banish your tension and stress.

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and dreamy spa facilities are what youwill remember long after your vaca-tion. See p. 263.

• Kohala Sports Club & Spa at theHilton Waikoloa Village (BigIsland; & 808/886-2828; www.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com): The BigIsland’s oldest (since 1989) spa hassomething for everyone, including 33treatment rooms, 50 classes, and avariety of sports ranging from rac-quetball to indoor rock climbing.Treatments are on the cutting edgeand include such unique therapies asacupuncture facials and astrologicalreadings. Spend the day luxuriatingin the lava whirlpool, steam room,and sauna before or after your treat-ment. See p. 276.

• Spa Moana at the Hyatt RegencyMaui Resort (Maui; & 808/661-1234; www.maui.hyatt.com): Youcannot match the location: This isHawaii’s only oceanfront spa. The20,000-square-foot spa houses 15relaxing treatment rooms and featuresone of the island’s best full-service fit-ness centers, plus a relaxation lounge,two romantic couples’ suites, a salonand retail shop, and new treatmentsfor kids and teenagers. See p. 383.

• Spa Kea Lani at the Fairmont KeaLani Maui (Maui; & 808/875-2229; www.fairmont.com/kealani):Come to this intimate Art Deco bou-tique spa (just a little over 5,000 sq.ft., with nine treatment rooms) forpersonal and private attention. Thefitness center is just next door. See p. 399.

• The Spa at Four Seasons ResortMaui at Wailea (Maui; & 808/874-8000; www.fourseasons.com/maui):This oasis in the luxurious Four Sea-sons offers a menu of pampering—from traditional Hawaiian massage toayurvedic, plus Vichy shower treat-ments, body wraps, body scrubs,

facials, even ocean aquacranial mas-sage for the ultimate in relaxation.You don’t just get a massage here; youcan choose from a list of therapies:hot stone, reiki, jin shin do, Swedish,aromatherapy, shiatsu, reflexology,and Thai. See p. 400.

• Spa Grande at the Grand WaileaResort Hotel (Maui; & 808/875-1234; www.grandwailea.com): Thisis Hawaii’s biggest spa, at 50,000square feet, with 40 treatment rooms.The spa incorporates the best of theOld World (romantic ceiling murals,larger-than-life Roman-style sculp-tures, mammoth Greek columns,huge European tubs), the finest East-ern traditions (a full Japanese-styletraditional bath and various exotictreatments from India), and the lureof the Hawaiian Islands (tropicalfoliage, ancient Hawaiian treatments,and local products). It has everythingfrom a top fitness center to a menu ofclasses and is constantly on the cut-ting edge of the latest trends. See p. 401.

• ANARA Spa at the Grand HyattKauai Resort (Kauai; & 808/742-1234; www.kauai.hyatt.com): Comehere to get rid of stress and to besoothed and pampered in a Hawaiianatmosphere, where the spirit of alohareigns. An elegant 25,000-square-foot spa, ANARA (A New AgeRestorative Approach) focuses onHawaiian culture and healing, withsome 16 treatment rooms, a lap pool,fitness facilities, lava-rock showersthat open to the tropical air, outdoorwhirlpools, a 24-head Swiss shower,Turkish steam rooms, Finnish saunas,and botanical soaking tubs. Recentrenovations make this spa even moreserene and relaxing. The four-handedmassage (two therapists at once) isnot be missed. See p. 554.

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• Tropical Fruit: The mangosteen,the queen of fruit in Indonesia, is thesensation at the Hilo Farmers Marketon the Big Island. Mangosteen’s ele-gant purple skin and soft, white, flo-ral-flavored flesh (like litchi, butmore custardlike) make this fruit asure winner.

The mango is always a much-anticipated feature of late spring andsummer. Hayden mangoes are uni-versally loved for their plump, juicyflesh and brilliant skins. White Piriemangoes, with their resinous flavorand fine, fiberless flesh, are even bet-ter; this rare and ambrosial varietycan be found in Honolulu’s China-town or at roadside fruit stands inrural Oahu. Watch for the Rapozamango, a new large, sweet, fiberlessfruit introduced to Hawaii severalyears ago.

Kahuku papayas—firm, fleshy,dark orange, and so juicy they some-times squirt—are the ones to watchfor on menus and in markets; checkout the roadside stands in Kahuku onOahu, and at supermarkets. Sunrisepapayas from Kapoho and Kauai arealso top-notch.

White, acid-free, extra-sweet, andgrown on Kauai and the Big Island,Sugarloaf pineapples are the newrage. Hilo is the town for litchis (alsoknown as lychees) in summer, butHonolulu’s Chinatown markets carrythem, too. Ka’u oranges, grown inthe volcanic soil of the southern BigIsland, are available in supermarketsand health-food stores. Don’t befooled by their brown, ugly skin—they’re juicy, thin-skinned, and sweetas honey.

• Noodles: Ramen, udon, saimin, pho,pasta, chow mein—Hawaii is the epi-center of ethnic noodle stands and

houses, with many recommendableand inexpensive choices. Jimbo’sRestaurant (Oahu; & 808/947-2211), a neighborhood staple, is topsfor freshly made udon with generoustoppings and a homemade broth (p. 168). On the neighbor islands,Nori’s Saimin & Snacks (Big Island;& 808/935-9133) is the place incharming Hilo for consummatesaimin of every stripe (p. 304). Andnoodle-mania prevails at Hamura’sSaimin Stand (Kauai; & 808/245-3271), where saimin and teriyakisticks have replaced hamburgers andpizza as the late-night comfort-foodtradition (p. 574).

• Plate Lunches: Zippy’s (21 locationsthroughout Oahu; call & 808/973-0880 for the one nearest you) is ahousehold word in Hawaii. Otherfavorite plate-lunch spots on Oahuinclude Kakaako Kitchen (& 808/596-7488; p. 246), which serves din-ner at indoor and outdoor tables atthe Ward Centre; I ♥ Country Café(& 808/596-8108; p. 160), at AlaMoana Plaza; and Yama’s Fish Mar-ket (& 808/941-9994; p. 240),where the chocolate/macadamia-nutcookies and chocolate biscotti havelegions of fans. On Maui, PauwelaCafe (& 808/575-9242; p. 431)serves gourmet feasts from a tinykitchen, and Aloha Mixed Plate(& 808/661-3322; p. 416) lets younosh on fabulous shoyu chicken atocean’s edge—and with a mai tai, too.On Kauai, Pono Market (& 808/822-4581; p. 572), Fish Express(& 808/245-9918; p. 573), andKoloa Fish Market (& 808/742-6199; p. 572) are at the top of theplate-lunch pyramid.

• Shave Ice: Like surfing, shave ice issynonymous with Haleiwa, the North

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Shore Oahu town where MatsumotoShave Ice (& 808/637-4827; p. 236)serves mounds of the icy treat. Shaveice is even better over ice cream andadzuki beans.

• Other Mighty Morsels: Poi biscottifrom the Poi Company, available atsupermarkets and gourmet outlets, isthe consummate accompaniment toanother island phenomenon, Konacoffee. Coffee growers of highestesteem (all based on the Big Island, ofcourse), include: Rooster Farms(& 808/328-9173), which sells andships only organic coffees; BongBrothers (& 808/328-9289); Kona

Blue Sky Coffee Company (& 808/322-1700); Langenstein Farms(& 808/328-8356); and HolualoaKona Coffee Company (& 800/334-0348). See “Kona Coffee Craze!”(p. 292) for details.

The buttery, chocolate-dippedshortbread cookies of Big Island Can-dies (Big Island; & 808/935-8890; p. 360) are worth every calorie andevery dollar. From Kauai, Hanapepetown’s venerable Taro Ko Chips Fac-tory (& 808/335-5586; p. 625) makestaro chips that neighbor islanders drivemiles to find.

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• La Mer (Oahu; & 808/923-2311;www.halekulani.com): This roman-tic, elegant dining room at Waikiki’sHalekulani is the only AAA Five Dia-mond restaurant in the state. The sec-ond-floor, open-sided room, withviews of Diamond Head and thesound of trade winds rustling thenearby coconut fronds, is the epit-ome of fine dining. Michelinaward–winning chef Yves Garniermelds classical French influences withfresh Island ingredients. It’s priceybut worth it. Men are required towear jackets (they have a selection ifyou didn’t pack one). See p. 146.

• Chef Mavro Restaurant (Oahu; & 808/944-4714; www.chefmavro.com): Honolulu is abuzz over the winepairings and elegant cuisine of GeorgeMavrothalassitis, the culinary wizardand James Beard Award–winner fromProvence who turned La Mer (at theHalekulani) and Seasons (at the FourSeasons Resort Wailea) into temples offine dining. He brought his award-winning signature dishes with himand continues to prove his ingenuitywith dazzling a la carte and prix-fixe($65–$150) menus. See p. 165.

• Alan Wong’s Restaurant (Oahu; & 808/949-2526; www.alanwongs.com): Master strokes at this shrine ofHawaii Regional Cuisine includewarm California rolls made withsalmon roe, wasabi, and Kona lobsterinstead of rice; luau lumpia with but-terfish and kalua pig; and ginger-crusted fresh onaga. Opihi shootersand day-boat scallops in season are amust, and grilled lamb chops are aperennial special. The menu changesdaily, but the flavors never lose theirsizzle. See p. 167.

• 3660 on the Rise (Oahu; & 808/737-1177; www.3660.com): Eversince Wine Spectator gave this restau-rant its Award of Excellence, thisplace has been packed, and with goodreason. In his 200-seat restaurant,chef Russell Siu adds an Asian orlocal touch to the basics: rack of lambwith macadamia nuts, filet of catfishin ponzu sauce, and seared ahi saladwith grilled shiitake mushrooms, alocal favorite. See p. 169.

• Hoku’s (Oahu; & 808/739-8780;www.kahalaresort.com/dining/hoku.cfm): Elegant without being stuffy, andcreative without being overwrought,

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the fine-dining room of the KahalaHotel & Resort offers fusion cuisinethat really works—European finessewith an Island touch. The ocean view,open kitchen, and astonishing bam-boo floor are stellar features. Reflect-ing the restaurant’s cross-culturalinfluences, the kitchen is equippedwith a kiawe grill, an Indian tandoorioven, and Szechuan woks. The Sun-day brunch is one of the best onOahu. See p. 171.

• Roy’s Restaurant (Oahu; & 808/396-7697; www.roysrestaurant.com):Good food still reigns at this busy,noisy flagship dining room in HawaiiKai with its trademark open kitchen.Roy Yamaguchi’s deft way with localingredients, nostalgic ethnic prepara-tions, and fresh fish makes his menu,which changes daily, a novel experi-ence every time. See p. 172.

• Merriman’s (Big Island; & 808/885-6822; www.merrimanshawaii.com): Chef Peter Merriman, one ofthe founders of Hawaii Regional Cui-sine, displays his creativity at thisWaimea eatery, a premier Hawaiiattraction. Dishes include his signa-ture wok-charred ahi, kung paoshrimp, or lamb from nearby KahuaRanch. His famous platters ofseafood and meats are among themany reasons this is still the best—and busiest—dining spot in Waimea.See p. 297.

• Son’z Maui at Swan Court (Maui;& 808/667-4506; www.sonzmaui.com): For 30 years, the Swan Courtwas the dining experience at theHyatt Regency Maui. When Tri-StarRestaurant Group CEO Aaron Pla-courakis (who also owns Nick’s Fish-market Maui, p. 424) took over thisrestaurant, he and executive chefGeno Sarmiento knew they wantedto hit a home run every night withthe cuisine. The restaurant already

had perhaps the most romantic loca-tion in Maui, overlooking a man-made lagoon with white and blackswans swimming by and the rollingsurf of the Pacific in the distance.Now the combination of the culinaryteam’s creative dishes, fresh localingredients (Kula corn and strawber-ries, Ono Farms avocados, Hanahearts of palm, Maui Cattle Com-pany beef, fresh Hawaiian fish, andsweet Maui onions), top-notch serv-ice, and relaxing atmosphere makesthis one of Maui’s best restaurants.See p. 417.

• Pineapple Grill (Maui; & 808/669-9600; www.pineapplekapalua.com):If you had only a single night to eaton the island of Maui, this would bethe place to go. In fact, if you eat hereat the beginning of your Maui trip,you are definitely going to want tocome back! Up-and-coming chefRyan Luckey (a local Lahaina boy) isa genius, combining Asian/Filipinoingredients into culinary master-pieces. You’ll find lots of tasty sand-wiches and salads at lunch, and acontinental-style breakfast in themorning—all served in a very Maui-like atmosphere overlooking therolling hills of the Kapalua golfcourse out to the Pacific Ocean. Seep. 420.

• Haliimaile General Store (Maui; & 808/572-2666; www.haliimailegeneralstore.com): Bev Gannon, oneof the original Hawaii Regional Cui-sine chefs, is still going strong at herfoodie haven in the pineapple fields.You’ll dine at tables set on old woodfloors under high ceilings, in a peach-colored room emblazoned with worksby local artists. Gannon’s Texas rootsshine through in her food, a blend ofeclectic American with ethnic touchesthat puts an innovative spin onHawaii Regional Cuisine. See p. 426.

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• Ihilani (Lanai; & 808/565-2296;www.fourseasons.com/manelebay/dining): A number of top Hawaiichefs (such as Philippe Padovani andEdwin Goto) have each added a bit oftheir own style during their tenurehere, but the common denominatoris the melding of Mediterranean withIsland cuisine. The result is Lanai’stop gourmet restaurant, in a formalatmosphere with inspiring food. Thelatest incarnation of this classy restau-rant, overlooking the resort and theocean beyond, is traditional Italiancuisine, priced moderately for theFour Seasons Resort Lanai at ManeleBay. See p. 529.

• Dondero’s (Kauai; & 808/742-1234;www.kauai.hyatt.com): If you’re look-ing for a romantic dinner, Dondero’s,at the Grand Hyatt Kauai, is hard to

beat. Dine either under the stars over-looking the ocean or tucked away atan intimate table surrounded byinlaid marble floors, ornate importedtiles, and Franciscan murals. You getall this atmosphere plus the best Ital-ian cuisine on the island, served withefficiency. It’s hard to have a badexperience here. Dinners are priceybut worth every penny. See p. 576.

• Hanapepe Cafe & Espresso Bar(Kauai; & 808/335-5011): This isone of those places that locals knowabout and generally visitors are notaware of. Nestled in the quaint littletown on the west side of Kauai, thissmall, wholesome cafe boasts a casual,winning ambience and some of themost creative cuisine around. See p. 580.

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• Sunset Lanai Lounge, at the NewOtani Kaimana Beach Hotel (Oahu;& 808/923-1555): The hau treehere shaded Robert Louis Stevensonas he wrote poems to Princess Kaiu-lani; today it frames the ocean viewfrom the Sunset Lanai Lounge. Thislounge is the favorite watering hole ofDiamond Head–area beachgoers,who love Sans Souci Beach, the oceanview, the mai tais, and the live musicduring weekend sunset hours. See p. 137.

• Jameson’s by the Sea (Oahu; & 808/637-6272): The mai tais here aredubbed the best in surf city, and theview, though not perfect, doesn’thurt, either. Across the street fromthe harbor, this open-air roadsideoasis is a happy stop for North Shorewave-watchers and sunset-savvysightseers. See p. 174.

• Mai Tai Bar, at the Royal Hawaiian(Oahu; & 808/923-7311): This bar

without walls is perched a few feetfrom the sand, with pleasing views ofthe south shore and the WaianaeMountains. Surfers and paddlers ridethe waves while Diamond Headacquires a golden sunset halo. Sip amighty mai tai while Carmen andKeith Haugen serenade you. See p. 127.

• House Without a Key, at the Hale-kulani (Oahu; & 808/923-2311):Oahu’s quintessential sunset oasisoffers a view of Diamond Head, greathula and steel-guitar music, and thebest mai tais on the island—all undera century-old kiawe tree. Even jadedlocals are unable to resist the lure. Seep. 126.

• Duke’s Waikiki, at the OutriggerWaikiki on the Beach (Oahu; & 808/922-2268): It’s crowded in theevening, but who can resist Hawaiianmusic with Waikiki sand still on yourfeet? Come in from the beach or the

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street—it’s always a party at Duke’s.Entertainment here is tops, reachinga crescendo at sunset. See p. 152.

• Beach Tree Bar & Grill, at the FourSeasons Resort Hualalai (Big Island;& 808/325-8000): The bar on thebeach seats only a handful, but therestaurant will accept the overflow.This is the finest sunset perch inNorth Kona, with consummate peo-ple-watching, tasty drinks, and thegorgeous ocean. The open-air restau-rant, with Hawaiian music and huladancing at sunset, also serves excel-lent fare. See p. 286.

• Huggo’s on the Rocks (Big Island; & 808/329-1493): Here’s a thatched-bar fantasy that’s really on the rocks.This mound of thatch, rock, andgrassy-sandy ground right next to

Huggo’s restaurant is a sunset-lover’snirvana. Sip a tropical drink whilereclining on a chaise and nosh onIsland-style appetizers while the oceanlaps at your feet. See p. 286.

• Kimo’s (Maui; & 808/661-4811):An oceanfront dining room anddeck, upstairs dining, and happy-hour drinks draw a fun-lovingLahaina crowd. Nibble on sashimi ornachos and take in the views of Lanaiand Molokai. See p. 415.

• Hula Grill (Maui; & 808/667-6636): Sit outdoors at the BarefootBar, order drinks, nibble on maca-damia-nut and crab wontons, andmarvel at the wonders of West Maui,where the sun sets slowly and Lanailooks like a giant whale offshore. It’ssimply magical. See p. 418.

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