ContentsCoverAbouttheBookAbouttheAuthorsTitlePageDedicationPrefaceYotam’sintroduction

CookiesandbiscuitsCustardYo-YoswithroastedrhubarbicingPeanutsandiesAlmond,pistachioandsourcherrywafersCranberry,oatandwhitechocolatebiscuitsChocolatechipandpecancookiesCats’tonguesChocolate,bananaandpecancookiesBrownbutteralmondtuilesGevuldeSpeculaasSpeculaasbiscuitsAmarettiwithhoneyandorangeblossomSoftgingerbreadtileswithrumbutterglazeSoftdateandoatbarsOrangeandstaraniseshortbreadChocolateandpeanutbutters’mores‘Anzac’biscuits(akaHoney,oatandraisincookies)Chocolate‘O’cookiesGaribaldisPecansnowballsNot-quite-Bonnie’srugelach

Mini-cakesPersianlovecakesSaffron,orangeandhoneymadeleinesLemonandraspberrycupcakesPowderpuffsTahiniandhalvabrowniesLemon,blueberryandalmond‘teacakes’HazelnutcrumblecakewithGianduja(orNutella)icingBabyblackandorangecakesStrawberryandvanillamini-cakesVictoriaspongewithstrawberriesandwhitechocolatecreamBananacakeswithrumcaramelBlackberryandstaranisefriandsCoffeeandwalnutfinanciersFlourlesschocolate‘teacakes’LemonandsemolinasyrupcakesRoma’sdoughnutswithsaffroncustardcreamChocolateGuinnesscakeswithBaileysIrishCream

CakesRumandraisincakewithrumcaramelicingPrunecakewithArmagnacandwalnutsParsnipandpecancakewithaniseedandorangeBeetroot,gingerandsouredcreamcakeAppleandoliveoilcakewithmapleicingVineyardcake(akaCleopatracake)Butternut,honeyandalmondPineapple,pecanandcurrantBanana,dateandwalnutGrappafruitcakeLemonandblackcurrantstripecakeRhubarbandstrawberrycrumblecakeCoconut,almondandblueberrycakeTake-homechocolatecakeApricotandalmondcakewithcinnamontopping

PistachiorouladewithraspberriesandwhitechocolateTropicalfruitcakePistachioandrosewatersemolinacakeFestivefruitcakeFlourlesschocolatelayercakewithcoffee,walnutsandrosewaterLouisecakewithplumandcoconutAlmondbuttercakewithcardamomandbakedplumsPineappleandstaranisechiffoncakeCoffeeandcardamompoundcakeNeapolitanpoundcake(forthefamily)Tessa’sspicecakeLemonandpoppyseedcake(NationalTrustversion)Belinda’sflourlesscoconutandchocolatecakeCelebrationcake

CheesecakesLimemeringuecheesecakesWhitechocolatecheesecakewithcranberrycompotePassionfruitcheesecakewithspicedpineappleBakedricottaandhazelnutcheesecakeFig,orangeandmascarponecheesecakeChocolatebananaripplecheesecakeApricotandAmarettocheesecakeRoastedstrawberryandlimecheesecake

TartsandpiesRhubarbandblueberrygaletteLittlebakedchocolatetartswithtahiniandsesamebrittle(ormarmalade)MontBlanctartsChaibrûléetartsChocolatetartwithhazelnut,rosemaryandorangeWalnutandblacktreacletartswithcrystallizedsageFigandpistachiofrangipanetartletsSchiacciatawithgrapesandfennelseedsApricotandthymegaletteswithpolentapastry

Pineappletartletswithpandanandstaranise

DessertsRolledpavlovawithpeachesandblackberriesGingerbreadwithbrandyapplesandcrèmefraîcheRicottacrêpeswithfigs,honeyandpistachioRicepuddingwithroastedrhubarbandtarragonCapegooseberrypavlovaHotchocolateandlimepuddingsGingercrèmecaramelYoghurtpannacottawithbasilandcrushedstrawberriesKaffirlimeleafpossetwithfreshpapayaStickyfigpuddingwithsaltedcaramelandcoconuttoppingPotbarleypuddingwithroastedapplesanddatesyrupCinnamonpavlova,pralinecreamandfreshfigsKnickerbockergloryFrozenespressoparfaitforacrowdSaffronandalmondicecreamsandwichCampariandgrapefruitsorbetPricklypearsorbetLemon,yoghurtandjuniperberryicecreamChocolate,roseandwalnuticecream

ConfectionerySaffronandpistachiobrittleRaspberrylollipopsWoodlandmeringuesSpicedpralinemeringuesPecanandProseccotrufflesChocolate-coatedrubyredgrapefruitpeelAlmondandaniseednougatChocolatepanfortewithorangesandfigsSesamebrittleCoconutmeringuebrittleHoney,macadamiaandcoconutcaramels

MiddleEasternmillionaire’sshortbread

Baker’stipsandnotesIngredientsAcknowledgementsCopyright

ABOUTTHEBOOK

InhisstunningnewbakinganddessertscookbookYotamOttolenghiandhislong-timecollaboratorHelenGohbringtheOttolenghihallmarksoffresh,evocativeingredients,exoticspicesandcomplexflavourings–includingfig,rosepetal,saffron,aniseed,orangeblossom,pistachioandcardamom–toindulgentcakes,biscuits,tarts,puddings,cheesecakesandicecream.

Sweetincludesover110innovativerecipes,fromBlackberryandStarAniseFriands,TahiniandHalvaBrownies,PersianLoveCakes,MiddleEasternMillionaire’sShortbread,andSaffron,OrangeandHoneyMadeleinestoFlourlessChocolateLayerCakewithCoffee,WalnutandRosewaterandCinnamonPavlovawithPralineCreamandFreshFigs.

Thereissomethingheretodelighteveryone–fromsimplemini-cakesandcookiesthatparentscanmakewiththeirchildrentoshowstoppinglayercakesandrouladesthatwillreignitetheimaginationsofaccomplishedbakers.

ABOUTTHEAUTHORS

YotamOttolenghiisacookerywriterandchef-patronoftheOttolenghidelisandNOPIrestaurant.HewritesaweeklycolumninTheGuardian’sWeekendmagazineandhaspublishedfivebestsellingcookbooks:PlentyandPlentyMore(hiscollectionofvegetarianrecipes);co-authoredwithSamiTamimi,Ottolenghi:TheCookbookandJerusalem;andNOPI:TheCookbookwithRamaelScully.YotamhasmadetwoMediterraneanFeastsseriesforMore4,alongwithaBBC4documentary,JerusalemonaPlate.www.ottolenghi.co.uk

HelenGohwasborninMalaysiabutstartedhercookingcareerinAustralia,whereshehadmigratedwithherfamilyasagirl.After7yearsasheadpastrychefatDonovans,alandmarkMelbournerestaurant,shemovedtoLondonandsoonjoinedOttolenghi.ShehasworkedcloselywithYotamastheleadproductdeveloperforthepasttenyears.HelendrawswidelyonAsian,WesternandMiddleEasterninfluencesinhercooking–andofcourse,onherloveofsweets.

Formymother,Cheng,whoneverfailstocookwithherheartandsoul;andformysister,Lily,whoignitedmypassionforbakingandhasbeenwithmeeverystepoftheway.

HELEN

Formythreesweettreats,Karl,MaxandFlynn,whoalwaysrefusetosharetheirchocolatechipcookieswithme.

YOTAM

PREFACE:OURSUGARMANIFESTO

There’ssomuchsugarinthisbookthatwethoughtaboutcallingit,well,Sugar.There’snothinglikeaperfectlylightspongeflavouredwithspicesandcitrus,forexample,oramega-crumblyicing-sugar-dustedcookie,straightoutoftheoven,toraisethespiritsandcreateamomentofpurejoy.Thesearethemomentswe’rerejoicinginhere,celebratingthesweetthingsinlife.

Wesaythisnottobeirreverentorflippant–wearecompletelyawareofcurrentconcernsabouttheadverseeffectsofsugar–butwewanttomakeitclearthatthisisarecipebookfullofover110wonderfulsweetthings.

Inthefickleworldoffoodfadsandfashions,‘publicenemynumberone’isconstantlychanging:eggs,fats,carbs–wearetoldtorestrictourintakeofthemoneyear,andthentomakethemamajorpartofourdietthenext.Tothosewhodoasthey’retold,it’sallveryconfusing.

Inthemidstofthisconfusion,wetrytosticktothesimpleruleof‘whatyouseeiswhatyouget’.Peoplewillmakeresponsiblechoicesaboutwhattoeatandhowmuchaslongastheyarenotconsumingthingswithoutrealizingit–hiddensugars,hiddensalts,hiddenelementswithnameswecan’tevenpronounce,letaloneunderstandwhattheyare.Thereisnothingwrongwithtreats,aslongas

weknowwhattheyareandenjoythemassuch.Justaswedon’thideanything,we’realsonever‘free-from’anything,justfor

thesakeofit.We’reluckytonothaveanyfoodallergiesandpleasedthatthosewhocan’teatglutenhavelotsof‘free-from’choice,but‘free-from’cooking,forthesakeofit,isjustnotsomethingthatexcitesus.Ifarecipeis‘free-from’glutenornutsordairy,itistheresultofaccidentratherthandesign.Ahappyaccident,certainly–wehadnoideawewerecreatingover20gluten-freerecipeshere,andaredelightedthatwehave!–butit’snotsomethingwespecificallysetouttodo.(Tomakethingseasier,wehaveaddedgluten-free andnut-free symbolstotherecipeswherethishappyaccidentoccurs.)TheOttolenghiwayhasalwaysbeenaboutabundance,inclusionandcelebration.It’sthewaywe’vealwayscookedandit’sthewaywe’vealwaysbaked.It’sthewaywe’vealwayseatenandthewaywe’vealwayslived.

YOTAM’SINTRODUCTION

Myfirstjobinaprofessionalkitchenwaswhiskingeggwhites.Yes,justthat.Itwasthe1990sandIwasdoingmytrainingasachefduringtheday,andassistingthepastrychefinafancycentralLondonrestaurantatnight.Onthedessertsectionmostoftheworkisdonebeforeservicestarts.SinceIwassojuniorandtendedtodothelateshift,therewasonejobIspentalotoftimedoing:beatingeggwhitestoorderforourverypopularvanillasoufflés.Bytheendofthreemonths,Iwasabonafideexpertintherightconsistencyofeggwhitesneededfortheperfectsoufflé.

Itmustbefatethen,orsomekindofdirectionfromabove,thatIendedupmakingmynameoneggwhites,sugarandlotsandlotsofair.ThefamouslygiantOttolenghimeringues,whichhaveadornedourwindowsformanyyears,havebecomeourtrademark.Iamcreditingthistodivineintervention,ratherthanallofmywhisking,becauseitwouldnothavebeenmyplan-AforOttolenghitobereferredto,bysome,as‘themeringueshop’.Thereareworsenamestobecalled,Iknow,butmyambivalencetowardsthemisnosecret.Ido

actuallylovemeringue,justnotsomuchofit!TheLouiseCakehere,forexample,wearingawhitecrownofmeringueonitsheadandgildedwithflakyalmondsandbitsofdeliciouscoconut,is,infact,oneofmyfavouritecakesinthebook.

LookingbeyondtheOttolenghiwindow,or,rather,throughit,itwouldn’thavebeenhardtospotmyloveforallthingssweetandthefactthatIeventuallyhonedmyskillsasapastrychefbeyondtheholytrinityofeggwhite,sugarandair.Sittingalongsideourgrilledvegetables,grainsaladsandtherestofthesavourydishesinspiredbySamiTamimi’sandmychildhoodsinJerusalem,wereabunchofsweettreatsthatwerenotatallfluffyorairy.Fruitgalettes,littlecheesecakes,Amaretticookies,danishesandmuffins,tartsfilledwithcitrusycurdsandallmannerofchocolatedelights:thesewererapidlyrallyingacrowdoflivelydevoteeskeentoaugmenttheirsaladboxwithalittle(orbig)sweetfinale.

Infact,itwaspreciselythisjuxtapositionofgood,yetdifferent,things–strikinglyappetizingsaladsalongsidewonderful,hand-craftedsweettreats–thathascometodefinetheOttolenghiexperience.Andby‘goodthings’Imeananythingthatisfreshlymade,withlove,abitofflair,realingredientsandlotsofattentiontodetail.

Helen’sarrivalIassumethatitisthistacitphilosophy–plusthewindow,nodoubt–thatattractedHelentoOttolenghiandbroughthertousassoonasshehadcomeofftheproverbialboatfromAustraliain2006.

Icanactuallyremembergettingaphonecallfromherandthenmeetingforthefirsttimeoutsideoneofourshops,hearingherstoryandnotquiteunderstandingwhatdrivessuchastartoleavebehindaverysuccessfulcareer–Helen’sprofessionalhistorybothasapastrychefandasapsychotherapistisremarkable–inaverysunnyMelbourneinfavourofaratherelusivefutureinarathergreyLondon.

IttookseeingHelenatwork–firstcookingsavouryfoodwithSamiinNottingHillandrunningourKensingtonkitchen,laterspendingmuchofhertimedreaminguppastries,cakesandallmannerofsweetthingsforthecompany–forthepennytodrop.IfinallyrealizedthatitwasHelen’srestlessnessandherinsatiabledriveforperfectionthathadbroughthertous.

Whatweshared,whichHelenhadidentifiedrightfromthestartandItookabitlongertorealize,wasthenotionthatthereisnoupperlimittothenumberoftimesyoucanbakeacakeortheamountofthoughtthatcangointothecomponentsofatartinordertogetitjustright;thatyoucandiscusstheminutiaeofachocolateicecreamoranutbrittleasifthefateoftheentireuniverserestsontheconversation,withoutworryingforasecondthatthismaybe,justmaybe,atinybitoverthetop.

ThiskindofintensityandcommitmenthasbeenaconstantthroughoutHelen’sdifferentrolesinOttolenghi.Overtheyearsshehasbeeninvolvedincreatingcanapés,testingbreakfastdishes,tryingoutsaladsandofferingherinsightsintoanything,really,thatappearedonourmenusorwasplacedonourshelvesandrequiredthekindofdepthandbreadthofknowledgeoffoodthatshehas.Morethananythingelse,though,itiswithhercakes–atermIuseverylooselyhere,tomeananythingfromadreamychocolatechipcookie,toalight-as-a-feathermeringueroulade,toarumandraisinbundtwithcarameldrippingdownitssides–thatHelencarvedherinspiredmarkonourfood.

OurtastingsessionsFormingfriendshipsandcollaborationsaroundaspreadoffoodistheOttolenghiway.IbondedwithSamiinthiswayallthoseyearsago,thenwithRamaelScully,co-authorofNOPI:Thecookbook,whotaughtmetolovemisoandappreciateafewnewcookingtechniques.MyfriendshipwithHelenwasmostlyformedaroundapieceofcake.

HereisanimagethatIcan’tshake:it’saSundayafternoon,around4pmprobably;myhusbandKarllooksoutthewindowofourfirst-floorWestLondonflat,anexpressionofclearforebodingappearsonhisfaceandthen,veryquietly,hesays:‘Helen’shere...withhercakes.’Helenthenwalksthroughourfrontdoorlikeagustofwindor,rather,anover-zealousdustingoficingsugar,carryingmorebrowncartonboxesthanhumanlypossibleand,beforeevensettingthemdown,beginsapologizingforallthethingsthatwentwrongwithhercakes.Thisonehasn’trisenproperly,theotherbowedaroundthecentre,anicinghassplithalfwaythroughitsapplication,asabayonlostitsair,asorbetfailedtochurn,asugarsyrupcrystallized,acookiecrumbledandsoonandonandon.

Helenwouldthenopenupherboxesandtakeoutwhatseemedlikeatleastthreesoliddays’worthofstandinginthekitchenandbaking.InoneSundaysessionwecould,veryeasily,samplethreeversionsapieceoftwocakes-in-progress,eachwithitsownminusculevariation(oneflavouredwithvanilla,forexample,theotherwithpandan,thethirdwithChinesefive-spice),abiscuitHelenhadinAmerica,triedathomeandwantedtoOttolenghify,acoupleofconfectioneryitems(say,achocolate-nutbrittleandanItaliannougat),threeflavoursofsummercordials,and,torounditallupnicely,shewouldquicklycookupabattershe’dbroughtwithherforanewpancakeorwaffletoaddtoIslington’sbreakfastmenus.

You’dthinkthere’satouchofembellishmentherebuttherereallyisn’t,Ipromise.ThesinkingofKarl’sheartwasentirelyjustified.Ithadnothingtodo,though,withthecakesthatfailed–accordingtoHelen–orthecookiesthatcrumbled,andeverythingtodowithhowharditwastostopyourselfindulginginallthoseincrediblesugarypleasures.Helen’s‘failures’,yousee,arethestuffthesweetestofdreamsaremadeofformeremortals.OurSundayafternoonstendedtoendupwithallparticipantsnearingaperfectstateofsugar-induceddelirium.

ThisbookManyofthecakesinthisbookarearesultofthoseelatedSundaysessions.Itemsthateventuallyreceivedoursealofapproval,afterendlesstestsandinfinitediscussions,were,ifImaysaysomyself,prettymagnificent.Otherrecipesareolder,goingbacktotheearlydaysofOttolenghi.Thoseevolvedorganicallyinourstores,basedonfeedbackfromourcustomersandstaff.Manywerebroughttousbyagreatnumberoftalentedpastrychefswhohaveworkedwithusovertheyears;weacknowledgethemwithgratitudeintheintroductionstotherecipes.Somerecipeshavebeendevelopedespeciallyforthebook,whenwefeltweweremissingaparticularangle,aspecificstyleofcake,orjustsomethingthatwelovetoeatandthathappenedtobesweet.

WhatalloftherecipesshareishavingbeenthroughthefullOttolenghitreatment,whichisexactlythewayIdescribeda‘goodthing’earlier:theywereallconceivedwithloveandabitofflairandmadewithrealingredientsandlotsofattentiontodetail.Ifeelconfidentthatyou’llbeabletofindallofthese

componentsineachofour‘cakes’here.

OnefinalnoteThesedays,mytastingswithHelenarenotquitethesameastheyusedtobe.Isuspectit’stodowiththefactthatwebothbecameparentsinrecentyears.

InourfirstmeetingafterHelen’sSamwasborn,thethree-week-oldwasrestinginhisMosesbasketnexttouswhileHelenandIweredebatingthemeritsofdifferentconsistenciesofmarshmallowformakings’mores.Tomyregret,Isentanoffhandtweetreportingthataninfantisthethirdwheelinourregulartastings,onlytoreceiveabunchofgravewarningsfromconcernedfollowersaboutthefatalrisksoffeedingcakestonewborns.

Settingasidethisparticularmishap,SamandhisbrotherJude’sarrivaland,lateron,thebirthofmyboys,MaxandFlynn,didslightlyalterthenatureofourmeetings.Ourattentionnowhastobeharnessedandsomewhatfocused,deliberationsareshorterand,unconsciously,wefindourcakesabitmorechild-friendly(youwouldn’tknowthat,though,lookingatthenumberofcakesinthebookwithseriousquantitiesofboozeinthem).Children’sbirthdaypartiesarenownaturaltestinggroundsforspongesandtheboysthemselvesaresomeofourfiercestcritics.JusttheotherdayIofferedMaxasliceofcake,towhichhequicklyreplied:‘DidHelenmakeit?’‘Iamafraidnot,’Isaid.‘No,then,’washisresoluteandfinalanswer.Whatafewyearsbackmayhavebeenaverylengthydiscussionwasoverbeforeithadevenstarted.Havingbeenputsoclearlyinmyplace,allIcoulddowasgobacktothekitchenandwhipupsomeeggwhites.

YOTAMOTTOLENGHI

Cookiesandbiscuits

Makingcookiesandbiscuitsisfun,quickandeasy.We’dsaythisaboutallformsofbaking,ofcourse,butcookiesandbiscuitsareparticularlyhappy-making.Thisisforallsortsofreasons.Herearejustafew.

KIT-FREE›Makingabatchofcookiesorbiscuitsdoesn’trequiremuchkit.Assumingthatanyonewithaninterestinbakinghasbakingtrays,bakingparchment,measuringspoons,woodenspoonsandmixingbowls,thenyou’reprettymuchreadytogo.Ifyouwanttodevelopyourinterestinbakinganddon’talreadyownafree-standingelectricfoodmixer,we’dhighlyrecommendinvestinginone.Itisathingofgreatbeauty!Weuseourelectricmixersooftenthroughoutthebookthatwe’vetakenthelibertyofassumingyouhaveone.Beyondthis,though,youwon’tneedmuchmoretoopenthe(oven)doorontoawholeworldofcookiesandbiscuits.Thereareoccasionswhenalittlesomethingextraisneeded–apipingbagandanon-sticksiliconematfortheCats’Tongues(seehere)forexample,orstampsandcookiecuttersfortheSoftGingerbreadTileswithRumButterGlaze(seehere)–butwe’llsuggestashortcutoralternativewherewecan,sothatyoudon’thavetobuyaspecificpieceofkitif

youdon’twantto.HASSLE-FREE›Thelackofkitandgeneralfussmakesbakingcookiesand

biscuitsanidealactivitytodowithkids.Bakingwithlittlepeopleisoften,secretly,morefunintheorythaninpractice–thechaos!theflour!thesheerdisregardfordetail!Withcookies,though,youreallycangetyourmini-helpersinvolvedinrolling,shapingandmixingwithoutbeingtoopreciousaboutwhetherthedoughisslightlyover-mixed,orthesizeandshapeofaparticularbiscuitissomewhatidiosyncratic.Thereareenoughrecipesinthebookforwhichprecisionandtimingiseverything–makingtheFrozenEspressoParfait(seehere),forexample,requiresanemptykitchenandfullfocus–buthereyoureallycanembracethechaosandrelaxintheknowledgethatyourdoughisgoingtoberobustenoughtohandleaspotoffour-year-oldimprovisation.

RULE-FREE(ISH)›Manycookieandbiscuitrecipesarealsoabletohandleaspotofgrown-upimprovisation.Recipewritersasksomethingcompletelycontradictoryoftheirreaders:atthesametimeassayingthatbakingisascience–ifyoudon’townmeasuringspoons,putthebookdownandbuysomenow,please!–andthatinstructionsneedtobefollowedclosely,wealsoaskyoutouseyourinitiativeastowhetheralittlebitmoreorlessofsomethingisneeded(timeintheoven,waterinthedough,whiskinginthemixer).Sotoowithingredients:alongsidetheinstructiontoputprecisely1/8teaspoonofsomethinginabatter,wethenblithelysay,‘butifyoudon’thaveit,youcanusethisorthisasanalternative,variationorsubstitute’.It’snotmeanttobeaparadox:wehavetestedandre-testedtheserecipesuntilwethinkwehavecreatedaperfectversion.Ourstrongadvicetoyou–rollingpininhand,wavingitintheairforemphasis–istodothesame.Don’tbakeabatchofcookiesonceandthenmoveontothenextrecipe.Bakeandre-bake(ortestandre-test,ifyoulike)thesamerecipesothatyoucanmakeallthetweaks,changesandalterationsyouneedtocreatetheexactamountof‘crisp’orspiceyouwantinyourbiscuit.Ifyoudon’tlikeaniseedorbrandy,don’taddit;ifyoudon’thaveanydatesyrup,usegoldensyrup;ifyoulikeyourbiscuitsparticularlycrisp,givethemanextraminuteintheoven;ifyouwanttojazzupasimplebiscuit,sandwichtwotogetherwithsomethingdelicious.Bakesomethingenoughtimesforittobecomeyours.Thenyoucanmoveontothenextoneofours.

FREEZER-FRIENDLY›Cookieandbiscuitdoughsarereallyhappytobehiddenawayinthefreezerforawhile,readytobepoppedintotheovenasandwhenthemomentarrives.It’soneoflife’sgreatpleasures,wethink,toknowthat,whateverelseisgoingoninyourday,you’reonlyeverabout14minutesawayfromaperfectlybakedchocolatechipcookie.Wegenerallyprefertobakefromfrozen(werollthedoughintoballs,thenfreezethem),ratherthanbakingthebiscuitsfirstandfreezingthemafterthey’vecooled.Thereareexceptionstothisrule,however,whichwillappearalongsideallthestandard‘gettingahead’and‘storage’notes.

FESTIVE-FRIENDLY›Thereisaperfectcookieorbiscuitforeveryoccasion:someofourrecipesaresofestive,forexample,thattheyactuallylooklikesnowballs.Whethertheyresemblesnow–thePecanSnowballs(seehere)orAmarettiwithHoneyandOrangeBlossom(seehere)–orsimplytasteofthespicesweassociatewithfestivetimes–theOrangeandStarAniseShortbread(seehere)–there’salwayssomethingtolinkinwithaspecialoccasion.ThecranberriesintheCranberry,OatandWhiteChocolateBiscuits(seehere)forThanksgiving,forexample,ortheChocolate‘O’Cookies(seehere)fortheclassickids’party.

We’vebeenmakingandsellingsomeofthebiscuitsandcookiesfeaturedhereinourshopsforyears.Andaswithalloldfriends,we’refeelingexcited(butalsoalittlebitprotective)tobesharingthese.Lookafterthem,please!Somearetwistsonhouseholdorchildhoodclassics:ourGaribaldis(seehere)andChocolateandPeanutButterS’mores(seehere);someweremadefortheshopsbutdidn’tquitework—theChocolate,BananaandPecanCookies(seehere),whichwenttoosofttooquicklybecauseofthebananainthemix,butwhichareheaventomakeathome;othersweredevelopedspecificallyforSweet:theSoftDateandOatBars(seehere)andtheSpeculaasBiscuits(seehere).

Andthedifferencebetweenacookieandabiscuitforthoseponderingthis,ofalloflife’sgreatquestions?Thestraightforwardansweristhatcookiesbendandbiscuitssnap.Cookiesareoftensofterandthickerthanbiscuits.Delveabitdeeper,though,andyoucouldsaythatcookiesaresweetandoftenchunky,whilebiscuitscanbesavouryandareoftencrisp.Wecanthinkofcrispcookies,however–andthenwehaveour‘Anzac’Biscuits(seehere),whichalsogobythenameofHoney,OatandRaisinCookies.IsitjustacaseofAmericanvsBritishterminology?It’sacanofwormsweareveryhappytokeepclosed,inreturnfora

jarofcookies(orbiscuits),whichwearemorethanhappytokeepopen.Whateveryoucallthemandwhicheverrecipesyouchoosetomakeyour

own,wehopetheymakeyouhappy.Ahousewithafullcookiejarbecomesahome.

RecipeListCustardYo-Yoswithroastedrhubarbicing

PeanutsandiesAlmond,pistachioandsourcherrywafersCranberry,oatandwhitechocolatebiscuits

ChocolatechipandpecancookiesCats’tongues

Chocolate,bananaandpecancookiesBrownbutteralmondtuiles

GevuldeSpeculaasSpeculaasbiscuits

AmarettiwithhoneyandorangeblossomSoftgingerbreadtileswithrumbutterglaze

SoftdateandoatbarsOrangeandstaraniseshortbread

Chocolateandpeanutbutters’mores‘Anzac’biscuits(akaHoney,oatandraisincookies)

Chocolate‘O’cookiesGaribaldis

PecansnowballsNot-quite-Bonnie’srugelach

CustardYo-Yoswithroastedrhubarbicing

Yo-YoswereastapleofHelen’sAntipodeanchildhood,ubiquitousinallofthecaféswhereshesweetenedhertooth.Theirpopularitywithourcustomersshowsthattheold-fashionedcombinationofroastedrhubarbandcustardtakesalotofpeoplebacktothesweettreatsoftheiryouth.

Asanalternativetocustardpowder,youcouldusecornflour.Itwon’thavethewonderfulold-schoolyellowofcustardpowderbuttheYo-Yoswillstilltastegreat:youmightjustwanttouptheamountofvanillaextractyouusefrom¼to½teaspoon.Andifyou’renotopposedtofoodcolouring,adroportwoofyellowwillalsohelptosimulatethecolourofthecustard.

MAKES15

175gplainflour,plus1tbspextrafordusting65gcustardpowder65gicingsugar1/8tspsalt170gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cubed¼tspvanillaextract(or½tsp,ifusingcornflour)

RHUBARBICING1smallstickofrhubarb,trimmed,washedandcutintoroughly3cmlengths(70g)65g

unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cubed130gicingsugar½tsplemonjuice

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Lineasmallbakingtraywithbakingparchment.

2Tomaketherhubarbicing,spreadtherhubarboutonthelinedbakingtrayandroastfor30minutes,oruntilsoftened.Removefromtheovenandallowto

coolbeforetransferringtothesmallbowlofafoodprocessor.Blitztoapurée,thenaddthebutter.Siftintheicingsugar,addthelemonjuiceandcontinuetoprocessforacoupleofminutes:itseemslikealongtime,butyouwantittothicken,whichitwilldoasit’swhipped.Transfertoasmallbowlandchillinthefridgeforacoupleofhourstofirmup.Youdon’twanttheicingtobeatallrunny,soaddalittlemoreicingsugarifnecessary:itneedstoholdwhensandwichedbetweenthebiscuits.

3Tomakethedough,sifttheflour,custardpowder,icingsugarandsaltintothebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Mixonalowspeedtocombine.Addthebutterandcontinuetomixonalowspeeduntilthemixtureresemblesbreadcrumbs.Addthevanillaextract,increasethespeedtomediumandbeatforabout30seconds,untilthedoughcomestogether.

4Reducetheoventemperatureto170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.Linetwobakingtrayswithparchmentpaper.

5Pinchoffsmallbitsofdoughanduseyourhandstorolltheminto3cmroundballs:youshouldhaveenoughdoughfor30balls,about15geach.Placethemonthelinedbakingtrays,spacedabout4cmapart.Dipthebackprongsofasmallforkintheremainingflourbeforegentlybutfirmlypressingdownintothemiddleofeachbiscuit:theballswillincreasetoabout3.5cmwide,butdon’tpressallthewaytothebottom;youjustwanttocreatefirmlinesinthedoughratherthanforcethemtospreadout.

6Bakefor25minutes,rotatingthetrayshalfwaythrough,untilthebiscuitsaredryonthebottombuthavenottakenontoomuchcolour.Theywillberelativelyfragilewhenwarmbutstillfirmtothetouch.Setasideonthetraystocoolfor5minutesbeforetransferringtoawireracktocoolcompletely.

7Toassemble,sandwichpairsofbiscuitstogetherwiththeicing,withthe‘forked’sidesfacingoutwards.Youshoulduseabout15goficingineachbiscuit.Itwillseemlikealot,buttrustus–thebiscuitscantakeit.

Theicingcanbemadeupto2daysinadvanceandkeptinthefridge.Ifyouricingisabitloose–thiscanhappenifyouoverworkit–itwillbenefitfromtimeinthefridgeanyway,tofirmup.Thedoughtendstogoveryhardifleftinthefridge,soitisbesttorollthemonthedaythedoughismade.

Onceassembled,theYo-Yoscanbekeptforupto5daysinanairtightcontainer,solongastheyarenotanywheretoowarm(inwhichcasetheicingwillsoften).

CustardYo-Yoswithroastedrhubarbicing

PeanutsandiesThesearelovelyastheyare–simple,nutty,moreish–butcanalsobeusedasabaseforotherthings,ifyouwanttobuildthemup.Alayerofmeltedchocolate,orNutellastraightfromthejar,sandwichedtogetherandservedwithaspoonoficecream,theymakeforasortofscaleddownanddeconstructedSnickersbar.ThemarshmallowfillingfromtheChocolateandPeanutButterS’mores(seehere)alsoworkswell,withathinlayerofmeltedchocolateorraspberryjam.

MAKESABOUT18(IFUSINGA7CMCUTTER)

90grawpeanuts(skinless,unroastedandunsalted),orroastedpeanuts150gplainflour125gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature50gicingsugar1tspvanillaextract¼tspsalt¼tspbakingpowder2tbspdemerarasugar

1Preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.

2Spreadthepeanutsoutonabakingtrayandroastfor8–10minutes(or3–4minutesifusingroasted)untilgoldenbrown.Setasideuntilcompletelycool,thentransfertoafoodprocessorwith50gflour.Blitzuntilthenutsarefinelychopped,thensetaside.Theovenisnotusedforoveranhoursocanbeturnedoffatthispoint.

3Placethebutterandicingsugarinanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeedforabout2minutesuntillightandfluffy.Addthevanillaextract,mixtocombine,scrapedownthesidesofthebowlwitharubberspatula,thenreducethespeedtomedium-low.Sifttheremainingflour,saltandbakingpowderintothebowlandcontinuetomix.Addthenutsandbeatagain,justtocombine.

4Tipthedoughontoacleanworksurfaceandkneadgentlytobringittogether,thenformitintoaball.Wraplooselyinclingfilm,presstoformadisc,andchillinthefridgeforatleast1hourtofirmup.

5Preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingparchment.

6Rollthedoughbetweentwosheetsofbakingparchmenttojustunder0.5cmthick.Usinga7cmroundcutter,cutout18circles,re-rollingtheoffcutssothatyouhaveenoughdough.Placetheseonthelinedtrays,spacedabout1cmapart.Sprinklewiththesugarandbakefor15minutes,oruntilgoldenbrownallover.Removefromtheovenandsetasideontheirtraystocoolbeforeserving.

Thisrecipecaneasilybedoubledifyouwanttomakemore,orifyouwanttofreezehalfthebatch,readyrolledandallsetuptobebakedasandwhenyouwant.

Oncebaked,thesewillkeepforuptoaweekinanairtightcontainer.

Almond,pistachioandsourcherrywafersThesearelovelytosnackonwithteaorcoffee,ofcourse,buttheyalsoworkwellafteramealwithaspoonfuloficecream.Don’tbeputoffbyhowmanyslicesoneloafmakes:theslicesarewaferthinsoyoucaneasilyeatfourorfiveatatime!Playaroundwiththedriedfruit:raisins,roughlychoppedfigsorapricotscanbeusedinsteadof(orincombinationwith)thesourcherries.

ThankstoCarolBrough,previouslyheadpastrychefatOttolenghi,forintroducingustothese.

MAKES1LARGELOAF,ABOUT55–60WAFER-THINSLICES

400gplainflour1tspbicarbonateofsoda½tspgroundcinnamon½tspsalt100gunsaltedbutter,cubed240gsoftdarkbrownsugar70mlwater150gwholealmonds,skinon90gshelledpistachiokernels100gdriedsourcherries

1Linethebaseandsidesofaregular900gloaftinwithbakingparchmentandsetaside.

2Sifttheflour,bicarbonateofsoda,cinnamonandsaltintoalargebowlandsetaside.

3Placethebutter,sugarandwaterinasmallsaucepanoveramedium-lowheat.Cookforabout5minutes,untilthesugarhasdissolved,thenpourintothedryingredients,alongwiththealmonds,pistachiosandcherries.Mixtoformasmooth,glossydough,thentipthemixtureintothepreparedtin,pressingdownfirmly.Coverthetopwithapieceofbakingparchmentandtransfertothefridgeorfreezerforseveralhourstofirmup:itshouldbecoldbutpliablewhenpressed

foreaseofslicing(seenotes).

4Oncethedoughisfirm,preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.Lineabakingtraywithbakingparchment.

5Slicetheloafasthinlyasyoucanwithouttheslicesbreaking–2–3mmthicknessisideal–andlaythemoutontheparchment-linedtray;theywon’tspreadduringbaking,sodon’tworryaboutspacingthemapart.

6Bakeinbatchesintheovenfor10–14minutes(timingwillvary,dependingonhowthicktheslicesare)untilgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandsetasideuntilcompletelycool:theywillbeslightlysoftwhenwarmbutwillhardenandcrispupastheycool.

Atthebakeryweuseameatslicertoproduceveryfine,uniformslices.Usingalargekitchenknifealsoworkswell,though.Freezethedoughonceit’sshapedintoaloaf(butbeforeit’sslicedandbaked),thentransferittothefridgethenightbeforeyouwanttobakeit,orjustremoveitfromthefreezerforacoupleofhoursbeforeslicing;itismucheasiertoslicewhennotcompletelyfrozen:itshouldbecoldbutpliablewhenpressed.

Theunbakeddoughcanbekeptinthefreezerforupto3months.

Oncebaked,thecrispwaferskeepforupto1weekinanairtightcontainer.

Almond,pistachioandsourcherrywafers

Cranberry,oatandwhitechocolatebiscuitsWefirstmadethesetosellaroundThanksgiving,butourcustomerssoondemandedthemallyearround.Theyhaveenoughgoingforthemtoappealtoallsenses,aswellasseasons:tartnessfromthecranberries,chewinessfromtheoats,nuttinessfromthewholemealflourandalmonds,andabitofsweetluxuryfromthewhitechocolatecoating.SourcherriesorplumpCaliforniancherriescanbeusedinsteadofthecranberries,ifpreferred.

MAKESABOUT30(IFUSINGA7CMCUTTER)

150gwholealmonds,skinon150gplainflour,plusextrafordusting75gwholemealflour150gjumborolledoats¼tspsalt225gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,roughlycutinto3–4cmpieces100gcastersugarfinelygratedzestof1largeorange(1tbsp)125gdriedcranberries,choppedinhalf(iftheyarenotalreadychopped),soakedin25ml

orangejuice250gwhitechocolate

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

2Spreadthealmondsoutonabakingtrayandroastfor10minutes.Removefromtheovenand,oncecoolenoughtohandle,roughlychopinto0.5–1cmpieces.Transferthenutstoalargebowlandaddtheflours,oatsandsalt.Mixtogetherandsetaside.

3Increasetheoventemperatureto190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.Linetwoorthreebakingtrayswithbakingparchmentandsetaside.

4Placethebutter,sugarandorangezestinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamediumspeedforabout2minutes,untilcombinedandlight.Addthealmondandflourmixtothebutterandsugarand

continuetomixonalowspeeduntilthedoughjustcomestogether.Addthecranberriesandorangejuiceandmixforanotherfewsecondstocombine,thentipthedoughontoalightlyflouredworksurface.Kneadintoaball,sprinklingovermoreflourifneededtopreventitgettingtoosticky.

5Cutthedoughinhalfandrolloutonehalfsothatit’sjustover0.5cmthick.Usea7cmcookiecuttertocutthedoughintorounds.Transferthesetoalinedtraywhileyoucontinuewiththeremainingdough.Bakefor18minutes,untillightlycolouredallover.Removefromtheovenandsetasideuntilcompletelycool.

6Meanwhile,placethewhitechocolateinasmallbowloverapanofgentlysimmeringwater,stirringoccasionally,untilmelted.Donotletthebaseofthebowltouchthewater.Tocoatthecookies,usethebackofadessertspoontospreadatablespoonofmeltedchocolateovereach.Setasideonacoolingrackforthechocolatetoset,whichcantakeuptoanhour,beforeserving.

Thesewillkeepforuptoaweekinanairtightcontainer.

Cranberry,oatandwhitechocolatebiscuits

ChocolatechipandpecancookiesOurversionofthisclassicAmericancookieisahugesellerintheOttolenghidelis.Infactsomeofourcustomershavebecomesuchcookieconnoisseursthateachstoretailorsitsbaketotheirparticularpreference.It’strue!OurLedburyRoadregulars,forexample,likethemcrispontheedgesandsoftinthecentre.Thisisachievedbycookingtherolleddoughwhenitisfridge-cold(ratherthanroomtemperature).OurcustomersonUpperStreet,ontheotherhand,preferthemcrispallthewaythrough.Toachievethisyoujustflattentheballsslightlybeforetheyarebakedandgivethemanextraminuteintheoven.

Thepecanscanbesubstitutedwitheitherwalnutsorhazelnuts,ifyouprefer.Whichevernutyouchoose,they’llneedtoberoasted.Thecookiesalsoworkwithoutanynutsatall:ifyougoforthisoption,you’llneedtoincreasetheamountofchocolateto370g.It’simportanttostartwithchipsorcalletshere,ratherthanchoppingfromablockofchocolate–seehere.

MAKESABOUT36(THEBATCHISQUITELARGE,BUTTHEBALLSARESOEASYTOROLL,FREEZEANDBAKEFROMFROZENTHATWEHAVENOTTRIEDTOREDUCEIT)

120gpecanhalves(orwalnuthalvesorhazelnuts)250gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cutinto2cmcubes200glightbrownsugar200gcastersugar1½tspvanillaextract2largeeggs560gself-raisingflour1tspsalt250gdarkchocolatechipsorcallets(60-70%cocoasolids)

1Preheattheovento170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.

2Spreadthepecansoutonabakingtrayandroastfor10minutes.Removefromtheovenand,whencoolenoughtohandle,roughlychopinto1.5cmpiecesandsetaside.Youcanturntheovenoffatthispoint,asthedoughwillneedtochillinthefridgebeforebaking.

3Placethebutterandsugarsinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonahighspeedforabout2minutes,untillightandfluffy.Withthemachinestillrunning,addthevanillaextractandeggs,oneatatime,beatingwellaftereachaddition.Reducethespeedtolow,siftintheflourandsaltandcontinuetobeatuntilcombined.Finally,addthechocolatechipsandroastednuts,mixinguntiljustcombined.Turnoffthemachineandgentlybringthedoughtogetherbyhand:theconsistencyshouldbefirmandcometogethereasily.

4Useyourhandstoformthedoughintolargegolf-ball-sizedballs,about45geach,andsetasideinthefridgeforanhourtofirmup.

5Whenreadytobake,preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingparchment.

6Spreadtheballsofdoughoutonthelinedbakingtrays–you’llneedtobakethemintwobatches–spacedatleast6cmapart.Bakefor12minutes,rotatingthetrayshalfwaythrough,untilgoldenbrownandslightlycrackedontop.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolonthetraysfor10minutesuntilfirm,thentransfertoawireracktocoolcompletely.

Oncetheunbakeddoughhasbeenrolledintoballs,theycanbefrozenforupto3months.Youcanalsobakethemfromfrozen:you’lljustneedtoaddanextraminuteofcookingtime(unless,likeourLedburyRoadcustomers,youlikeasoftcentre).

Thecookieskeepwellfor5daysinanairtightcontainer.

Cats’tongues

LanguesdeChat,LenguasdeGato,KatteTong,Cats’Tongues:whateverthenameyouuse,theselonganddelicatebiscuitsaresolightthatyoucannibbleaload.We’vekepttheflavourdeliberatelysimplesotheycanbeservedalongsideallsortsofflavouredicecreams,sorbetsandsetpuddings:theCampariandGrapefruitSorbet(seehere),forexample,ortheYoghurtPannaCottawithBasilandCrushedStrawberries(seehere).Youcanalsosandwichtwotogetherwithchocolateganache,ifyoulike,forsomethingmoresubstantial.

Thelemonzestcanbesubstitutedwithorangeorlimezest,perhaps,orapinchofspicecanbeadded–groundcloves,ginger,cardamomormahleballworkwell.

MAKESAROUND36

120gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cubed120gcastersugarscrapedseedsof¼vanillapodfinelygratedzestof½lemon(½tsp)1/8tspsalt60geggwhites(from1½largeeggs)90gplainflouradroportwooflemonoil

1Preheattheovento210°C/190°CFan/GasMark6.

2Placethebutter,sugar,vanillaseeds,lemonzestandsaltinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamediumspeedforabout3minutes,untillight.Reducethespeedtolowandgraduallydribbleintheeggwhites,beatingallthetimeandscrapingdownthebowltoensureevenmixing.Sifttheflourintoaseparatebowl,then,withthemixerstillonalowspeed,addtheflourinthreebatches.Whencompletelycombined,addthe

lemonoil–justadroportwo–mixthroughandthenscrapethemixtureintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cmwidenozzle.

3Pipe9cmlongfingersontoanon-sticksiliconemat,oraparchment-linedbakingtray,spacedabout4cmapart,astheywillspreadduringbaking.Bakefor8minutes,rotatingthetrayhalfwaythrough,untilthebiscuitsarelightbrownaroundtheedges.Removefromtheovenandwaitforaminuteortwobeforetransferringtoacoolingrack.Setasideuntilcompletelycool,thenstoreinakitchenpaper-linedairtightcontainer(thepaperwillpreventthedelicatebiscuitsbreakingwhenbeingmovedabout).

Useanon-sticksiliconebakingmathere,ifyouhaveone,insteadofregularbakingparchment.Itwillhelpthedelicatebiscuitscookmoreevenly.Ifyouonlyhavebakingparchment,that’sfine:justswitchtheoventoconventionalheat(ratherthanfan-assisted)topreventthepaperandlightbiscuitsflutteringaroundinsideandbecomingmisshapen;thebiscuitsmightneedanextraminuteintheovenonthissetting.

Youwillneedapipingbagwitha1cmwidenozzlehere.Youcaneitherinvestinapipingbagwhichcomeswitharangeofnozzles,oryoucanbuyadisposablepipingbagandjustcuta1cmholeintheend.

Thesewillkeepwellinanairtightcontainerforupto5days,orinthefreezerforupto10days.Oncebaked,they’reactuallyverygoodeatenstraightfromfrozen!

Chocolate,bananaandpecancookiesThesewereintroducedbyJimWebb,anoriginalmemberoftheOttolenghiteamalongwithSami,NoamandYotam.Jimmostlyworkedonpastry,bringingwithhimsomebrilliantideas,alongwithaseriousknowledgeofbreadandviennoiserie.ItwasJim’ssuggestiontoaddbananatothedoughhere,bothforthemoistureandthedistinctflavouritbringstothecookies.Thepecansareaclassicmatch,butwalnutscanbeusedinstead,ifyouprefer.

Thesecrethereistoslightlyunder-bakethecookies,whichkeepsthemsoftandfudgy.It’sforthisreasonthatthey’veneverbecomeafeatureintheshops,particularlyinthesummer,wherethey’dbendandbreakafteranhourortwopiledupinabowl.Thereareworsethingstohappen,though,thantobetoldyouneedtoeatawholebatchofcookieswithinadayorsoofthembeingbaked.

MAKESABOUT24

110gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cubed110gcastersugar1largeegg,lightlybeaten125gplainflour½tspbakingpowder20gDutch-processedcocoapowder½tspgroundcinnamon¼tspsalt100gchocolatechips(70%cocoasolids),or100gdarkcookingchocolate,cutinto0.5cm

pieces50gmashedbanana(about½smallbanana)170gpecanhalves,finelychopped100gicingsugar,fordusting

1Placethebutterandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeeduntillightandfluffy,thengraduallyaddtheeggandcontinuetobeatuntilincorporated.Sifttheflour,bakingpowder,cocoapowder,cinnamonandsaltintoabowl,thenaddtothebutterandsugar.Mixonalowspeedforabout15seconds,thenaddthe

chocolateandbanana.Beatuntilcombined,thentransfertothefridgefor2hourstofirmup.

2Whenfirm,useyourhandstoformthedoughinto3cmroundballs,about20geach:youmightneedtowashyourhandsonceortwicewhenmakingthem,iftheygettoosticky.Placethepecansinamediumbowlanddroptheballsintothenutsasyouformthem,rollingthemaroundsothattheyarecompletelycoatedandpressingthenutsinsothattheystick.

3Lineabakingtraywithbakingparchment,placethecookiesonthetray–thereisnoneedtospacethemapartatthisstage–andtransfertothefridgeforatleastanhour.

4Whenreadytobake,preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingparchment.

5Placetheicingsugarinabowlandrollthecookiesintheicingsugar,pressingitinasyougosothatitstickswell.Placeonthelinedbakingtrays,spaced2–3cmapart,andflattenthecookiesto1cmthick.

6Bakefor10minutes.Theywillbesofttothetouchwhentheycomeoutoftheoven,soallowthemtocoolonthetrayfor10minutesbeforegentlytransferringtoawirerack.Thesecanbeservedwarm,whentheywillbealittlegooeyinthecentre,orsetasideuntilcompletelycool.

Oncetheunbakeddoughhasbeenrolledintoballs,theycanbekeptinthefridgeforupto2days,orfrozenforupto3months.Youcanalsobakethemfromfrozen:you’lljustneedtoaddanextraminuteofcookingtime.

Thesecookiesarebesteatenwithinadayofbeingmade.

Chocolate,bananaandpecancookies

BrownbutteralmondtuilesThesetuiles(or‘tiles’)are,liketheCats’Tongues(seehere),deliciouslysimplebiscuitstoeatwithicecream,sorbet(theyworkwellwiththeCampariandGrapefruitSorbet)orjustwithacupofcoffee.It’s‘browning’thebutterthatgivesthemtheirnuttycaramelnote.Andifyou’vemadetheicecreamyourself,you’llalreadyhavetheeggwhitesreadyandwaitingtobeputtogooduse.

Traditionally,tuilesarecooledoverarollingpintoproducetheircharacteristicallycurvedshape.Wetendtocooloursflat,however,astheystoremoreeasilythiswayandarelesspronetosnapping,butfeelfreetostickwithtradition,ifyouprefer.

MAKESABOUT20

45gunsaltedbutter,cubed120gflakedalmonds120gcastersugar35gplainflour70geggwhites(from2largeeggs)¼tspvanillaextract

1Tobrownthebutter,placeitinasmallsaucepanoveramediumheat.Oncemelted,continuetocookuntilthebutterisfoaming.Swirlthepangentlyfromtimetotime,toallowthesolidstobrownmoreevenly,untilyouseedarkbrownsedimentsbegintoformonthesidesandbottomofthepan.Continuetobubbleawayuntilitturnsarichgoldenbrown.Itwillalsosmellheavenly,liketoastednutsandcaramel.Removethepanfromtheheatandletitstandfor5minutes,toallowtheburntsolidstocollectatthebottomofthepan.Strainthroughafine-mesh(ormuslin-lined)sieve,discardingthesolids.Youneed25gbrownedbutter,sopourawayanyexcess(thiscanbereservedforcooking),thensetasidetocooltoroomtemperature.

2Placetheflakedalmonds,sugarandflourinamediumbowlandpouroverthecooledbutter.Addtheeggwhitesandvanillaandmixwithawoodenspoonuntilcombined.

3Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Lineabakingtraywithbakingparchment.

4Droptablespoonsofthealmondmixture–about15geach–ontothebakingtray,spacedabout5cmapart.Flattenthemixturebypattingthemdownwithmoistenedfingers–keepasmallbowlofwarmwaternearbytodipinto–untilthealmondsarejustaboutinasinglelayerandeachtuileisabout6cmwide.

5Bakefor18minutes,rotatingthetrayhalfwaythrough,untilthetuilesaregoldenbrownallover.Removethetrayfromtheovenandallowthemtocoolfor5minutesbeforegentlytransferringthemwithasmallmetalspatulatoawirerack(ordrapethemoverarollingpin,ifyoupreferthetraditionalshape)untilcompletelycool.

Providedtheyarecookedthrough(completelycrisp),theywillkeepforupto10daysinanairtightcontainer.Iftheydosoften,youcancrispthemupintheovenfor5minutesat180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4beforesettingasidetocoolcompletely.

Brownbutteralmondtuiles

GevuldeSpeculaasSpeculaasarespicedshortcrustbiscuits,hugelypopularintheNetherlands.‘Gevulde’meansstuffed,which–withtheiralmondpastefilling–thesecertainlyare.BothareeatenbytheDutcharoundSinterklaas–the5thand6thDecember–whenthelegendaryfigureridesintotownonhiswhitehorse,bearingpresentsforthosewho’vebeengood.You’llworrythatthedoughisnotgoingtocometogetherwhenrollingit,buttrustintherecipe–itworks!

You’llhavetwiceasmuchspicemixtureasyouneedforthisrecipe,butitkeepswellinasealedcontainer,socanbeusedinyournextbatchofGevuldeSpeculaasorintheSpeculaasBiscuits(seehere)–onebatchneedsexactlytheamountofspicemixtureyou’llhaveleftover.

ThankstoHennieFranssenforthisrecipe(aswellasfortranslatingallofYotam’sbooksintoDutch).

SERVES12

SPICEMIX1tbspgroundcinnamon1tspgroundaniseed¾tspgroundwhitepepper¾tspgroundginger½tspgroundcoriander1tspgroundcardamom¼tspgroundnutmeg¼tspgroundcloves

DOUGH100gunsaltedbutter,softened,plusanextra15g,melted,forbrushing100gdarkbrownsugar1tbspfull-fatmilk,plusupto1tbspextra,ifthedoughneedsit½tspbicarbonateofsoda180gplainflour,plusextrafordusting1/3tspsalt

ALMONDPASTE200gwholeblanchedalmonds150gcastersugar1largeegg

finelygratedzestof1smalllemon(¾tsp),plus2tsplemonjuice60gmixedcandiedpeel

TODECORATE1largeegg,lightlybeaten,toglaze30gwholeblanchedalmonds

1Forthespicemix,combinealltheingredientsinabowlandsetasideuntilreadytouse.

2Tomakethedough,placethebutterinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Addthesugarandmilkandbeatonamediumspeeduntilsmooth.Siftthebicarbonateofsoda,4teaspoonsofspicemix,theflourandsaltintoabowl,thenaddthistothedough.Continuetomixuntilthedoughissoftandpliable,addingalittlemoremilkifneeded.Transferthedoughtoyourworksurfaceandlightlyknead.Wrapinclingfilmandkeepinthefridgeuntilreadytouse.

3Forthealmondpaste,placethealmondsinafoodprocessorandblitzfor30seconds–youdon’twantthetexturetobecompletelysmooth.Addthesugar,eggandlemonjuiceandblitzagain,untilitisslightlysmootherbutstillgrainy.Finally,addthelemonzestandcandiedpeelandblitzonceortwice,justtomixthrough.Thepasteshouldbestickyandsofterthanthedough,butstillholditsshape.Transfertoasmallbowluntilreadytouse.

4Preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.

5Rollthedoughoutonalightlyfloured40x30cmsheetofbakingparchmenttoforma35x20cmrectangle,justover0.5cmthick.Dustwithmoreflourifyouneedto,topreventitsticking.

6Transferthedoughandparchmentsheettoalargebakingtrayandbrushtwo-thirdsofthemeltedbutterevenlyoverthedough.Spoonthealmondpastelengthwaysdownthecentreofthedoughtoformalongsausage,about6cmwide.Brushthealmondpastewiththeremainderofthebutterandthen,usingtheparchmentpapertohelpyou,drawintheleftsideofthedoughontopofthepaste.Bringintherightsideontopofthis(again,usingthepapertohelpyou)sothatthetwosidesareslightlyoverlapping.Pressgentlytosecureandcarefullyturnthewholethingoversothatthesealisatthebottomandthepasteis

secured–abitlikeagiantsausageroll.Brushevenlyandlightlywiththebeatenegg,arrangethewholealmondsontop–decoratingasyoulike–andthenbrushagainwiththeegg.

7Placeintheovenandbakefor30minutes,untilthedoughbeginstocolourandthealmondsaregolden.Don’tbealarmedthattherollflattensout–thisismeanttohappen!Setasideuntilcompletelycoolonthebakingtray,thencutinto12slices,eachabout2.5cmthick,andserve.

Oncebaked,thesewillkeepforupto5daysinasealedcontainer.

GevuldeSpeculaas

SpeculaasbiscuitsWeoriginallymadethesecrispbiscuitstouseupthespicemixleftoverfrommakingtheGevuldeSpeculaas(seehere).Yettheyswiftlybecametheveryreasontomakethespicemixinthefirstplace!Eitherway,you’reontoafestivewinner.BoththeGevuldeSpeculaasandthesebiscuitsaretraditionallyeatenintheNetherlandsaroundSinterklaas,duringthefirstweekofDecember.They’redeliciousallyearround,though,perfectforsnackingonorforservingwithicecream.

Useanysizeorshapeofcookiecutteryoulike,dependingontheoccasionandseason.Themorefrillytheedgeofyourcutter,thequickeryourbiscuitedgeswillcook,sokeepaneyeontimingsasyoumightneedtoreducethembyaminuteortwo.Besurenottounder-bakethem,though:youwantthemtobesupercrispandtheyaremeanttotakeonalotofcolour.

MAKESABOUT60BISCUITS(IFUSINGA7CMROUNDCUTTER)

450gplainflour1tbspbakingpowder3½tspspicemix(approximately;seeGevuldeSpeculaas)½tspsalt250gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature330gsoftdarkbrownsugar50mldarkrumorbrandy1largeeggwhite,lightlybeatenuntilfrothy,forbrushing100gflakedalmonds,todecorate

1Sifttheflour,bakingpowder,spicemixandsaltintoamediumbowlandsetaside.

2Placethebutterandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeedforabout3minutes,untilthemixtureislightandfluffy.Addtherumorbrandyandbeatuntilincorporated.Finally,addthesifteddryingredientsandcontinuetomixonalowspeed;thedoughcaninitiallyfeeldryanddifficult,buttrustus,itwillcometogether.Tipontoacleanworksurfaceandkneadlightlytobringtogether.Dividethedoughinto

twopieces,wrapeachlooselyinclingfilm,thenpressdowntoformflattishdiscsandtransfertothefridgefor30minutes(orfreezeoneofthediscsifyoujustwanttomake30biscuits).

3Whenreadytobake,preheattheovento210°C/190°CFan/GasMark6.Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingparchmentandsetaside.

4Rolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilitisjustunder0.5cmthick.Usinga7cmroundcutter(orwhateversizeorshapeyoulike),cutoutthebiscuitsandplacethemonthelinedbakingtrays,spaced2cmapart.Re-rollthescrapstocutoutmorebiscuits.Useapastrybrushtolightlypaintathinlayerofeggwhiteovereachbiscuit,thensprinklelightlywiththeflakedalmonds(use50gifyouhavefrozenhalfthedough).

5Bakefor12minutes,rotatingthetrayshalfwaythrough,untilgoldenbrownandthealmondsaretoasted.Removefromtheovenandsetasidefor10minutesonthetraysforthebiscuitstocoolslightly,beforetransferringtoawireracktocoolcompletely.

Thedoughcanbefrozenbeforeorafteritisrolledandshaped;ifthelatter,bakefromfrozenandincreasethecookingtimeby1minute.

Oncebaked,thesewillkeepforuptoaweekinanairtightcontainer.

Speculaasbiscuits

Amarettiwithhoneyandorangeblossom

Withnoflouratall,thegroundalmondsareallowedtobethestarhere,sousethefreshest,best-qualityalmondsyoucanfind.

MAKES20

200ggroundalmonds110gcastersugarfinelygratedzestof1lemon(1tsp)finelygratedzestof1smallorange(1tsp)1/8tspsalt60geggwhites(from1½largeeggs)25grunnyhoney1/8tspbest-qualityalmondextract¼tsporangeblossomwater100gflakedalmonds,forrolling25gicingsugar,fordusting

1Combinethealmonds,sugar,lemonzest,orangezestandsaltinalargebowlandsetaside.

2Placetheeggwhitesinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplaceandwhiskonamediumspeed.Heatthehoneyinasmallsaucepanoveramediumheat,andjustbeforeitcomestotheboil,increasethespeedofthewhisktomedium-highwhilethehoneycontinuestoboilfor30secondsandtheeggwhitesformsoftpeaks.Removethehoneyfromtheheatandcarefullypourintotheeggwhites,inacontinuousstream,whiskingallthetime.Whenallthehoneyhasbeenadded,keepwhiskingforaminuteuntilthemeringueisfullywhippedandcooled.Stopthemixer,removethewhiskattachmentandchangetothepaddleattachment.

3Addthealmondandsugarmixture,alongwiththealmondextractandorangeblossomwater.Mixuntilitallcomestogethertoformasoft,pliablepaste.

Alternatively,useawoodenspoonoryourhandstobringeverythingtogether.Transfertoabowl,coverwithclingfilmandtransfertothefridgefor1hourtofirmup.Themixturewillstillbeverysoftbutthechillingwillhelpwhenrollingout.

4Oncechilled,dividethemixtureintofourportionsofabout90geach.Sprinkleaquarteroftheflakedalmondsonacleanworksurfaceandrolloutonepiecetoformalog30cmlongand1.5cmwide,coveredwithalmonds.

5Lineabakingtray(thatwillfitinsideyourfridge)withbakingparchment,andeitherliftthelogontothetraybyhandorrollitontoacleanrulerandusethattotransferittothetray.Continueuntilyouhaverolledallfourpiecesintologs,sprinklingmoreflakedalmondsontheworksurfacewitheachbatch.Placethemallonthetray,coverwithclingfilm,andplaceinthefridgeforatleast2hours,orupto2days.

6Whenreadytobake,preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.Lineabakingtraywithbakingparchment.

7Removethetrayfromthefridgeandcuteachlogintofivesmallerlogs,6cmlong.Sifttheicingsugarintoabowlandrolleachpieceintheicingsugarsothattheyarecoveredallover.Spreadoutontheparchment-linedbakingtray,spaced2cmapart,andbakefor13–15minutes,rotatingthetrayhalfwaythrough,untiltheAmarettiaregoldenbrownbutstillsoft.Removefromtheovenandsetasideonthetrayfor10minutes.Thesecanbeservedwarmortransferredontoawireracktocoolandfirmupbeforeserving.

Thekeytomakingtheseisinthetiming.AswithanyrecipewithanItalianmeringuecomponent(seehereformoreonItalian,FrenchandSwissmeringues),thesugarsyrup–inthiscase,honeysyrup–needstobeatexactlytherighttemperaturejustastheeggwhiteshaveformedsoftpeaks.Thetrickistohavetheeggwhiteswhippingslowly,andthenbereadytoincreasethespeedasthehoneycomestotheboil.

Theunbaked,rolleddoughcanbekeptinthefridge,coveredinclingfilm,forupto2days.

Oncebaked,thesewillkeepwellforupto10daysinanairtightcontainer.

Amarettiwithhoneyandorangeblossom

Softgingerbreadtileswithrumbutterglaze

HelenhasbeenslightlyobsessedwiththeseeversinceshesawthemonthefrontcoveroftheTartinebakingbookbyElisabethM.PrueittandChadRobertson.Theyusedanantiqueembossedrollingpintocreatetheimprintbeforecuttingthemintorectangles;here,weuseroundbiscuitstampsfortheimprintbeforecuttingthemoutwitharoundbiscuitcutter.Oncetheglazeisapplied,theyreallydolooklikeantiquetiles.Trytogetholdofsomestampsifyoucan–they’reverypopularinScandinaviancountriesandcaneasilybeboughtonline.Ifyoucan’tgetholdofany,thegingerbreadscanalsobemadeasregularbiscuits,usingroundcutters,orcutintosquaresorrectangleswithaknife.

Ifyouwanttokeeptheglazebooze-free,therumintheicingcanbereplacedwithlemonjuice.

MAKES12–14(DEPENDINGONTHESIZEOFSTAMPANDCUTTER)

85gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature90gsoftdarkbrownsugar100gblacktreacle(orblackstrapmolasses)1largeeggyolk235gplainflour,plusextrafordustingandprinting½tspbicarbonateofsoda1tspgroundginger½tspgroundcinnamon1/8tspgroundcloves1tbspDutch-processedcocoapowder¼tspsalt¼tspfreshlygroundblackpepper

RUMBUTTERGLAZE80gicingsugar1/8tspgroundcinnamon

15gunsaltedbutter,meltedandwarm1tbspdarkrum(orlemonjuice)1tspwarmwater

1Placethebutter,sugarandtreacleinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamediumspeeduntilsmoothandincorporated.Addtheeggyolkandcontinuetobeatuntilfullycombined.

2Siftallthedryingredientsintoabowl,reducethespeedofthemixer,andaddthedryingredientstothebutterandtreacle.Oncethemixcomestogether,tipthedoughontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandkneadgently.Rolloutthedoughsothatitisabout6mmthick.Ifthedoughisverysoft,youwillneedtochillit.

3Preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingparchmentandsetaside.

4Dipthebiscuitstampsinasmallbowlofflour,shakeoffanyexcessandthenpressthemfirmlyintothedough,oneatatime,tocreateadeepimprint.Howfaryouneedtopresstogetanimprintwilldependonyourstamp:thepatternsonsomearemoredeeplycutthanothers.Bearinmindthatthebiscuitsrisealittlewhencooked,soanysoftimprintswilldisappear.Then,usingaroundbiscuitcutterwhichisslightlylargerthanthepattern,cutoutthepiecesofimprintedgingerbread.Transferthebiscuitstothelinedbakingtrays,spacedabout2cmapart.Re-rollthedoughandcontinuetostampandcutbiscuitsuntilallthedoughisusedup.

5Bakefor9–10minutes,rotatingthetrayshalfwaythrough,untilfirmtothetouch.Theywillcontinuetofirmupastheycool,sodon’tbetemptedtobakethemforanylonger.

6Preparetheglazewhilethegingerbreadsareintheoven,astheglazeneedstobebrushedontothebiscuitswhiletheyarestillwarm.Sifttheicingsugarandcinnamonintoasmallbowl.Addthemeltedbutter,rum(orlemonjuice)andwaterandmixwithaspoonuntilsmooth.Theglazewillthickenslightlyifitsitsaround,sostirthroughalittlemorewarmwaterifyouneedto–itshouldbetheconsistencyofrunnyhoney.

7Removethebiscuitsfromtheoven,leavethemtorestfor5minutes,thenbrushordabtheglazealloverwithapastrybrush.Transfertoawireracktocoolcompletely.

Oncethedoughismade,itcanbewrappedinclingfilmandkeptinthefridgeforupto2daysbeforebaking.

Thesewillkeepforupto5daysinanairtightcontainer.Theglazewilldiscolourandcrackalittle,butthiswillnotaffecthowtheytaste.

Softgingerbreadtileswithrumbutterglaze

SoftdateandoatbarsWehavedecidedtocallthese‘bars’,asflapjacksconjureupAmerican-stylepancakestomany,whichtheseareverymuchnot.Whateveryouwanttocallthem,thesenut-and-seed-filledsliceshaveacrunchyedgeandaslightlychewymiddle.It’sthewaywelikethem,buttheymightbeabitsofterthanyou’reusedto.Ifyouwanttofirmthemup–sothey’rerobustenoughtocartaboutinTupperware,forexample–storetheminthefridge,wherethey’llsoonhardenup.

MAKESABOUT14

50galmonds,skinon50gcashewnuts200gjumborolledoats35gpumpkinseeds35gsunflowerseeds15gsesameseeds7–8largeMedjooldates,pitted(120g),halvedlengthwaysandeachhalfcutinto3pieces200g

unsaltedbutter,cutinto3–4cmcubes180gdemerarasugar75gdatesyrup(orgoldensyrup)finelygratedzestof1smallorange(1tsp)2tsporangeblossomwater1tspgroundcinnamon¼tspsalt

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Greaseandlinea30x20cmbakingtrayandsetaside.

2Spreadthealmondsandcashewnutsoutonaseparatetrayandroastfor10minutes,oruntilthenutsarelightlybrowned.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolforafewminutesbeforechoppingintoroughly1.5cmpieces.Transfertoalargemixingbowlandsetaside.

3Whilethenutsareintheoven,place80goftheoatsinafoodprocessorandroughlyblitz:youwantthemtobebrokenintosmallpiecesratherthanturnedtopowder.Addtheblitzedoats(whichwillhelpkeepthebarstogetherwhenbaked)totheunblitzedoatsinabowlandsetaside.

4Placetheseedsinadryfryingpanandtoastoveramedium-lowheat,shakingthepanfrequently,sothattheytoastevenly.Addtheseedstothechoppednutsalongwiththedatesandalloftheoats.Mixtocombineandsetaside.

5Placethebutter,sugar,datesyrupandorangezestinamediumsaucepanandplaceoveramedium-lowheat.Stirgentlyuntilthebutterhasmelted(don’tworryifthedemerarasugarhasnotmelted,itwilladdtothecrunch)andthemixcomestogether.Removefromtheheat,stirthroughtheorangeblossomwater,cinnamonandsalt,thenpourovertheoatmixture.Mixwellandtipoutintothelinedbakingtray.Useasmallspatulaorthebackofaspoontospreadandpressthemixtureevenlyontothetray.

6Bakeforabout35minutes,oruntilbubblingandadarkgoldencolour.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolforabout30minutesbeforecuttingintosquaresor8x3cmrectangles;howeveryouslicethemyouwanttodosobeforetheysethard.Don’tremovethemfromthetrayuntiltheyarecompletelycool,however,astheywillcrumbleandfallapart.

Thesewillkeepforupto5daysinanairtightcontainer.

Softdateandoatbars

Orangeandstaraniseshortbread

Usingtwotypesofflourhere–thefinelymilledItalian‘00’flourandthewhitericeflour–createsashortbreadwithacrispandbutterytexture.Forthericeflour,youneedthegrainytype–abrandsuchasBob’sRedMill,forexample–ratherthanthefinelymilledAsianvarietyusedtomakedumplingwrappers.

Ifyouarelookingforideasforbiscuitstogiveasgifts,theseshouldgoonthelist:they’resturdyenoughtobewrappedincellophanebags,withashelflifethatallowsthemtobeenjoyedatleisure.

Therecipecallsforaroundpastrycutterbutfeelfreetouseanyshapethatyoulike,particularlyfestiveshapesifyouaregiftingthemasaholidaytreat.

MAKESABOUT40BISCUITS(IFUSINGA7–8CMCUTTER)

360gItalian‘00’flour70gwhitegrainyriceflour165gcastersugar1/8tspbakingpowder1½tspgroundstaranise(about3wholestaranise)1tspflakyseasaltfinelygratedzestof1largeorange(1tbsp)scrapedseedsof½vanillapod250gunsaltedbutter,fridge-cold,cutinto2cmcubes1largeegg,lightlybeaten

1Sifttheflours,sugar,bakingpowderandgroundstaraniseintoalargemixingbowl.Addthesalt,orangezestandvanillaseedsandmixtocombine.Addthebutterandusethetipsofyourfingerstorubitintothedrymixuntiltherearenolargebitsofbutterandtheconsistencyisthatofbreadcrumbs.Addtheeggandmixgradually,usingyourhandsorawoodenspoon,untilthedoughcomestogether.Shapeintoarectangleandwraptightlyinclingfilm.Setasideinthefridgeforatleast1hourtofirmup.

2Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingparchmentandsetaside.

3Cutthedoughinhalfandrolloutonehalfonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilitisjustunder0.5cmthick.Usinga7–8cmroundcutter,cutoutthebiscuitsandplacethemonthelinedbakingtrays,spaced1cmapart.Re-rollthescrapstocutoutmorebiscuits.

4Bakefor16–17minutes,inbatchesifnecessary,rotatingthetrayshalfwaythroughtogetanevencolour.Theyshouldbegoldenbrownontheedges,lightlygoldeninthecentreandhaveagoldenbrownunderside.Transfertoacoolingrackuntilcompletelycool.

Thedoughcanbemadeadayaheadandkeptinthefridgeovernight;makesureyouremoveitfromthefridgeandallowittositatroomtemperaturefor30minutesbeforerolling,soitbecomesmalleable.Thedoughcanalsobefrozenbeforeorafteritisrolledandshaped;ifthelatter,bakefromfrozenandincreasethecookingtimeby1minute.

Oncebaked,thesewillkeepwellforupto10daysinanairtightcontainer.

Orangeandstaraniseshortbread

Chocolateandpeanutbutters’moresThisisourtakeons’mores,thecampfireclassicofmeltedmarshmallowssquishedbetweentwobiscuitsanddippedinmeltedchocolate.Thesearealittlemoreelaborate,butthere’sgottobeascout’sbadgeformakingyourownmarshmallow,surely?

Helen’schildhoodmemoriesofWagonWheels–chocolate-coatedbiscuitswithamarshmallowcentre–predisposehertokeepingthesesimple,leavingoutthecrunchypeanutbutterinthefilling.Yotam,whoseownchildhoodmemoriesarerichinnuttytahini,prefersthemwith.Theyworkbothways.

MAKES22(IFUSINGA6CMCUTTER)

BISCUITS150gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cutinto2cmcubes75gcastersugar1largeeggyolk(savetheeggwhiteforthemarshmallow)40gmaplesyrup50groasted(unsalted)peanuts,finelygroundinthesmallbowlofafoodprocessor260gplain

flour1/8tspsalt

MARSHMALLOW1½sheets(about11x7cm)platinumgelatine,or1½tsppowderedgelatine85mlcoldwater90gcastersugar1½tspliquidglucosescrapedseedsof¼vanillapod30geggwhites(from1mediumegg)

TOFINISH140gcrunchypeanutbutter,forspreading15groasted(unsalted)peanuts,roughlychoppedinto0.5cmpieces¼tspflakyseasalt130gdarkcookingchocolate(70%cocoasolids),roughlychoppedinto0.5cmpieces

1Tomakethebiscuits,placethebutterandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeedforabout2minutes,untillightandfluffy.Addtheeggyolkand,whencombined,addthemaplesyrupandgroundpeanuts.Oncecombined,siftintheflourand

saltandmixtogetheruntiladoughforms.Tipontoacleanworksurfaceandkneadgentlyforafewsecondstobringittogether.Wrapthedoughlooselyinclingfilm,presstoformadisc,andkeepinthefridgeforatleast1hourorovernight.

2Preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingparchmentandsetaside.

3Removethedoughfromthefridgeabout5minutesbeforerolling,sothatithassomemalleability.Onalightlyflouredworksurface,rolloutthedoughsothatitisjustunder0.5cmthick:youcandivideitinhalfbeforerolling,ifthat’seasier.Usinga6cmroundcutter,cutout44circlesandplacethemontheparchment-linedbakingtrays.Bakeforabout15minutes,rotatingthetrayshalfwaythrough,untilthebiscuitsarefirmandturningalightgoldencolouraroundtheedges.Removefromtheovenandsetaside,stillontheirtray,tocool.

4Oncecool,turnthebiscuitsoversothattheundersidesitsup.Spreadhalfofthebiscuitswithpeanutbutterandsetaside.

5Next,makethemarshmallow.Placethegelatinesheetsorpowderinasmallbowl.Coverwith40mlofthewaterandsetaside.

6Placethesugar,glucose,vanillaseedsandremainingwaterinasmallsaucepanandplaceoveramediumheat.Stiruntilthesugarhasmelted,thenincreasetheheattomedium-high.Bringtotheboilandsimmerforabout8–10minutes,untilthemixtureturnsaverylightambercolourandstartstothicken(youarelookingforittoeventuallyreach128°Conathermometer).

7Keepacloseeyeonthesugarasit’ssimmering,andwhenthetemperaturereachesabout120°C,placetheeggwhitesinthebowlofanelectricmixer.Startingoffwithahand-heldwhisk(thereisnotenoughegginthebowlforthemachinewhisktotakeeffectatthisstage),beattheeggwhitesuntilstiffpeaksform.Continuebeatingwiththemachinefromthisstage.

8Whenthesugarreaches128°C,removefromtheheat,slidethesoftenedgelatineandsoakingwaterintothesugarmixandstirtocombine.Withtheelectricmixerstillrunning,slowlyandcarefullypourthesugarsyrupovertheeggwhites,andcontinuetowhiskuntilthemixtureisglossyandthickandthebowl

ofthemixeriscompletelycool:about15minutes.Immediatelyspoonthemarshmallowintoapipingbagandpipethemixinacircularpatternovertheremainingupturnedbiscuits,coveringthewholeofthebasewithagenerousamountofthemarshmallow.Sandwichapeanut-butter-coveredbiscuitontopofamarshmallow-coveredbiscuitandpressgentlytogether.Continuewiththeremainingbiscuitsinthesameway,thenleaveforabouthalfanhourtoset.

9Combinethechoppedpeanutsandseasaltinasmallbowl,rubbingthesaltbetweenyourfingerstobreakitup.Setaside.

10Next,meltthechocolate.Placethechocolateinasmallbowloverapanofsimmeringwater,stirringoccasionally,untilmelted.Donotletthebaseofthebowltouchthewater.

11Gentlyholdthepeanutsideofthe‘sandwich’anddipthemarshmallowhalflightlyintothemeltedchocolate,sothatthebiscuitiscovered.Sprinkleapinchofthepeanutandsaltmixintothecentreofthebiscuit(onthesidewiththemeltedchocolate)andallowtosetbeforeserving.

Youwillneedapipingbagwitha1cmwidenozzlehere.Youcaneitherinvestinapipingbagwhichcomeswitharangeofnozzles,oryoucanbuyadisposablepipingbagandjustcuta1cmholeintheend.Youwillalsoneedasugarthermometertomakethemarshmallow.

Thedoughforthebiscuitscanbemadeadayaheadandkeptinthefridge.

Oncebakedandfilled,thesewillkeepfor3daysinanairtightcontainer.

Chocolateandpeanutbutters’mores

‘Anzac’biscuits(akaHoney,oatandraisincookies)

Anzacbiscuits–amixofrolledoats,desiccatedcoconutandsugar,heldtogetherbyflour,goldensyrupandbutter–areverypopularinAustraliaandNewZealand.Traditionally,theyaresweet,flatandcrispy.Veryuntraditionally(asYotamwasinformedinnouncertaintermsbyhisAntipodeanInstagramfollowers,afterpostingapictureofourAnzacs),oursareplump,chewyandslightlymalty.Withoutcriesof‘travesty!’webothapplaudedtheloyaltyoftheSouthernHemispheretotheirbakesatthesametimeasdefendingourversionasatwiston(ratherthanacrueldeparturefrom)theoriginal.Theygettheir‘chew’fromtheadditionoftheraisinsandthehoney,whilethebranflakesgivethemaslightbutdistinctivemaltyflavour.They’relovelytohavesittingonthekitchencounterforsnackingonthroughouttheday.

MAKES22

100grolledoats(notthequick-cookbreakfasttype)50gbranflakes,lightlycrushedbyhand90gdesiccatedcoconut185gplainflour100gcastersugar40gsoftlightbrownsugar100graisinsfinelygratedzestof1lemon(1tsp)185gunsaltedbutter60grunnyhoney30mlwater1tspbicarbonateofsoda

1Preheattheovento170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingparchmentandsetaside.

2Combinetheoats,branflakes,coconut,flour,sugars,raisinsandlemonzestinalargebowlandsetaside.

3Heatthebutter,honeyandwaterinasmallsaucepanoveralowheatuntilthebuttermelts.Removefromtheheatandquicklystirinthebicarbonateofsoda,forabout15seconds,untilthemixturebecomeslightandfrothy.Pourthemixtureintothedryingredients,mixthoroughly,thenrollintogolf-ball-sizedballs,about40geach.Spreadtheballsoutonthetwobakingtrays,spacedabout5cmapart.

4Bakefor18–20minutes,untilthecookiesaregoldenbrownbutstillslightlysoft.Removefromtheovenandsetasidefor5minutesonthetraybeforetransferringthemtoawireracktocoolcompletely.Thecookiesshouldbecrispyontheoutsidebutstillretainachewontheinside.

Oncebaked,don’tkeeptheseinanairtightcontainerastheywillsoftenveryquickly.Placetheminanopencontainer,separatingthelayersofbiscuitswithbakingparchment,andwrapthewholethinginkitchenfoil.Thisway,theywillkeepfor3–4days.

‘Anzac’biscuits(akaHoney,oatandraisincookies)

Chocolate‘O’cookies

Helensetherselfthechallengeofmakingacookietorivalthepopularityofourchocolatechipcookie.Theseweretheresultandthey’vebecomesomethingofasignaturecookieintheshops.Wefindtheircombinationofsalty,sweetandspicybothdeliciousandintriguing.

The‘O’inthenamenodsthreeways:firsttoThomasKeller,whoseownversionoftheOreobiscuitinspiredthebaseforourcookie;secondtotheirsmallpound-coinshape;andthird,ofcourse,tothebiground‘O’inthenameonthedoor.

MAKES22(IFUSINGA6CMCUTTER)

COOKIES190gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cubed130gcastersugar½tspflakyseasalt220gplainflour75gDutch-processedcocoapowder¼tspbicarbonateofsoda

WATERGANACHE½cinnamonstickshavedpeelof½orange½tspchilliflakes90mlboilingwater125gdarkcookingchocolate(70%cocoasolids),roughlychoppedinto1cmpiecesscraped

seedsof½vanillapod¼tspflakyseasalt50gcastersugar50gliquidglucose50gunsaltedbutter,cutinto2cmcubes

1Tomakethecookies,placethebutter,sugarandsaltinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeedforabout3minutes,untillightandfluffy.Sifttheflour,cocoapowderandbicarbonateofsodaintoabowl,reducethespeedofthemixertolow,thenaddthedryingredientsintwobatchesuntiladoughforms.Tipontoacleanworksurfaceandkneadgentlyuntilsmoothanduniform.Wrapthedoughlooselyinclingfilm,presstoformadisc,andkeepinthefridgeforatleast1hourtofirmup.

2Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingparchmentandsetaside.

3Removethedoughfromthefridgeabout5minutesbeforerolling,sothatithassomemalleability.Onalightlyflouredworksurface,rolloutthedoughsothatitisabout3mmthick:youcandivideitinhalfbeforerolling,ifthat’seasier.Usinga6cmroundcutter,cutout44circlesandplacethemontheparchment-linedbakingtrays.Bakefor13–15minutes,rotatingthetrayshalfwaythrough,untilfirm,thenremovefromtheovenandsetasideonthetraysuntilcompletelycool.

4Tomaketheganache,placethecinnamon,orangepeelandchilliflakesinasmallbowlandcoverwiththeboilingwater.Setasidetoinfusefor30minutes.Afterthewaterhasbeeninfusingforabout20minutes,preparethesugarsyrup.

5Placethechocolate,vanillaseedsandsaltinamediumbowlandsetaside.

6Placethesugarandglucoseinasmallpanandwarmthroughoveramediumheat,stirringfromtimetotime,untilthesugarhasmelted.Increasetheheattomedium-highandboiluntilthecaramelturnsalightambercolour,about5minutes.Removefromtheheatandaddtheinfusedwaterandaromatics.Don’tworryifthesugarseizesinthepan:justreturnittotheheatandstiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.Returnthecarameltotheboil,thenstraintheliquidoverthechocolateandvanilla;thearomaticscanbediscarded.Leavefor2–3minutesuntilthechocolatehasmelted,thenmixtogether.

7Addthebutter,onepieceatatime,stirringcontinuouslyuntilallthebutterisincorporatedandthechocolateissmooth.Placeinthefridgefor30minutesuntiltheganacheisfirm.

8Spoonaheapedteaspoonoftheganacheontotheundersideofabiscuit,then,usingaknifeorthebackofadessertspoon,spreaditevenlyalloverthebiscuit.Placeanotherbiscuit,undersidedown,ontopoftheganacheandsandwichtogether.Setasidewhileyourepeatwiththeremainingbiscuitsandganache.

Thedoughcanbemadeinadvanceandkeptinthefridgeforupto2days,orfrozenforfutureuse.

Oncebakedandfilled,thesewillkeepfor5daysinanairtightcontainer.

Chocolate‘O’cookies

Garibaldis

Theseareanaltogethermoredecadentversionoftheso-called‘squashedfly’biscuit.Wheretheoriginalisdryandnottoosweet,ourbutter-richpastryisflakyandpositivelyoozingwithcaramel.Commercialgaribaldiscomeinstripsofstuck-togetherbiscuit,whicharethensnappedoffoneatatime.Ourscanalsobecomestucktogetherasthecarameloozesoutwhenthebiscuitsarebaked.Don’tworry,though:oncetheyarecoolenoughtohandle,justcutthroughthecaramelandneatenthebiscuitsupwithscissors.Theresultisquiterustic,butthisisasitshouldbe!

MAKES20

FILLING120graisins20mlsweetMarsalawinefinelygratedzestof1smallorange(1tsp)20mlorangejuice

PASTRY250gplainflour75gicingsugarfinelygratedzestof½alemon(½tsp)1/8tspsalt160gunsaltedbutter,fridge-cold,cutinto2cmcubes1largeeggyolk1tbspcoldwater1largeegg,lightlybeaten,toglaze

CARAMEL60mlwater120gcastersugar90mldoublecream¼tspflakyseasalt

1PreparethefillingbyplacingtheraisinsinasmalljarorcontainerwiththeMarsala,orangezestandjuice.Coverandleaveatroomtemperaturefor6hours(orupto24hours),shakingitoccasionally,untilalltheliquidhasbeenabsorbedandtheraisinsaresoftandplump.

2Tomakethepastry,placetheflour,icingsugar,lemonzestandsaltinthebowlofafoodprocessorandblitztocombine.Addthebutterandblitzuntiltheconsistencyofbreadcrumbs,makingsuretherearenolargelumpsofbutterleft.Addtheeggyolkandwaterandcontinuetomixuntilthedoughjustcomestogether.Takecarenottomixanylongerthannecessary:thedoughdoesn’tsomuchcometogetherasholdwhenpressedintoaball,sodon’tworryifitappearsslightlycrumbly.Atthesametime,youmightneedtoaddanextratablespoonortwoofwater,ifthedoughneedsit.

3Transferthedoughtoacleanworksurfaceandkneadverylightly,justtoshapeitintoasmoothball.Cutthedoughinhalf,wraponehalfinclingfilmandplaceinthefridgewhileyourollouttheother.Placealargepieceofbakingparchmentonyourworksurfaceandlightlyflour.Rolloutthefirstpieceofdoughontheparchmenttoabout30x25cmand3mmthick.Transferthedoughandparchmentpapertogethertoabakingtrayandsetasidewhileyourolloutthesecondpieceofdoughinthesameway.Placethis,alongwiththeparchmentpaper,ontopofthefirstsheetofdough.Coverwithclingfilmandplacethetrayinthefreezerforatleast30minutes.Thisallowsthepastrytofirmupsothatitcanbesandwichedtogether.

4Tomakethecaramel,placethewaterandsugarinasmallsaucepanandplaceoveramediumheat.Stirtocombineandwhenthesugarhasdissolved,increasetheheattomedium-high.Cookuntilthecaramelisthecolourofgoldensyrup,approximately6minutes.Removethepanfromtheheatandslowlypourinthedoublecream.Returntoalowheat,stiruntilcompletelysmooth,addtheseasaltandsetasidetocooltoroomtemperature.

5Preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingparchment.

6Removethepastrysheetsfromthefreezerand,movingquickly,spreadathinlayerofthecaramelsauceoverbothsheets.Thecaramelwillstarttosetassoon

asittouchesthecoldpastry,sospreadalittleatatimetogetathin,evenlayer.Sprinkletheraisinsoverthetopofoneofthesheets,inoneevenlayer,thenplacetheothersheetofpastry,caramelsidedown,ontopoftheraisins.

7Placeasheetofparchmentpaperontopofthepastryandgentlyrollarollingpinoverit,applyingalightpressureto‘seal’thetwolayers.Eggwashthetopofthepastryandtrimatinybitoftheedgeaway–just0.5cm–toneaten.Slicetherectangleintoevenstrips(5stripslengthwaysand4stripsacrosstoget20rectangles),thenplacetherectanglesonthelinedbakingtrays,spacedwellapart.

8Bakefor22–25minutes,oruntilanicegoldenbrowncolour.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolfor10minutes.Ifsomeofthecaramelandraisinsoozeout,youcaneasilypoptheraisinsbackintotheedgesofthebiscuitswhiletheyarestillhot.Thenuseafishsliceoroffsetspatulatogentlytransferthebiscuitsfromthebakingsheettoawirerackandcoolcompletelybeforeeating.

Thecaramelcanbemadeadayahead;ifitbecomestoofirm,warmitgentlytosoften:youwantittobespreadableratherthanrunny.Thedoughcanalsobemadeaheadandwillkeepinthefridgefor3–4days.Onceassembled,thebiscuitscanbefrozenbeforebaking;whenreadytoeat,theycanbebakedfromfrozen:you’lljustneedtoaddanextraminuteofcookingtime.

Oncebaked,thesewillkeepforaweekinanairtightcontainer.

Garibaldis

PecansnowballsVariousversionsofthesecookiesarepopularthroughouttheworld.TheyaresometimescalledMexicanweddingcakes(eventhoughthey’reashort,nuttycookieratherthanacake)andgivenoutatfestivalsandcelebrations,andinGreecethey’reknownaskourabiedesandmadewithwalnutsoralmondsandflavouredwithouzo.We’veusedbrandyinours,butgowithwhateverbottleisopen:ouzo,Pernodandrumallworkwell.Oryoucanleaveoutthealcoholaltogether,ifyouprefer.Forthosecookingwithkids(orforanyonewhoenjoysthebowl-and-spoon-lickingstageofbaking),therawdoughforthesecookiesishardtoresist.

Packedincellophanebagsandtiedwithribbon,thesemakegreatgifts,particularlyinthefestiveseason,astheylookallsnowyandwintrywiththeirthickicingsugarcoating.

MAKESABOUT21

90gpecanhalves120gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cubed65gicingsugar,plusanextra50gforcoatingscrapedseedsof¼vanillapod¼tspvanillaextract½tspbrandy(optional)1/8tspsalt165gplainflour,plusextrafordusting

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

2Spreadthepecansoutonabakingtrayandroastfor8–10minutes,untiltheyhavetakenonsomecolourandsmellnutty,thenleavetocool.Transfertoafoodprocessor,blitzuntilfine–stopthemachinebeforethenutsturnintoanoilypaste–andsetaside.

3Placethebutterandicingsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeed,scrapingdownthesidesofthebowlafewtimestoensureevenmixing,untilthemixtureislight.Withthemachinestillrunning,addthevanillaseeds,extract,brandy(ifusing),saltandthegroundpecans.Finally,addtheflourandmixonalowspeeduntileverythingcomestogetherandtherearenolongeranybitsofflourvisible.Tipthemixtureontoacleanworksurfaceandkneadgentlyfor30seconds,thenformintoaball.Wraplooselyinclingfilm,presstoflattenintoadiscandchillinthefridgefor30minutestofirmup.

4Increasetheoventemperatureto190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.Lineabakingtraywithbakingparchment.

5Rollthedoughintoballs,about20geach.Spreadoutonthelinedbakingtrayandbakefor16–18minutes:theundersideofthecookiesshouldbefirmandalightgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandallowtorestfor3minutesonthebakingtray.

6Sifttheextraicingsugarintoabowl,then,oneatatime,gentlyrollthewarmcookiesintheicingsugar.Returnthemtothestill-hotbakingtraytoallowtheicingsugartosetintoathincoating.Leavefor5minutesbeforecoatingthecookiesforasecondtime;youmayneedanothertablespoonortwooficingsugar.

Thesewillkeepwellforupto7daysinanairtightcontainer.Theyalsofreezewellforuptoamonth(afterbaking),andareuncommonlygoodeatenstraightfromthefreezer!

Pecansnowballs

Not-quite-Bonnie’srugelachBonnieStern,akaYotamandSami’sCanadianmother,hasbeenlookingafter‘herboys’sincetheystarteddoingbooksigningtoursinCanada.Aswellasbeingtoldwhichrestaurantstheyneedtotry,SamiandYotamhavecometoexpectabagofBonnie’sexceptionalrugelach.Filledwithapricotjam,pecansanddemerarasugar,they’resimple,brittleandperfectlybuttery.

It’sthesubstitutionofapricotjamwithmembrillo(quincepaste)inourversionthatmakesthese‘Not-quite-Bonnies’,aswellastheadditionofthebakingpowderinthedough,whichmakesthepastryflakier.Apricotjamstillworkswell,though(andismorewidelyavailablethanmembrillo),sofeelfreetousethejam,ifyoulike.We’vefallenforanumberofrugelachovertheyears,fromtheyeastedvarietiessopopularinIsrael,tothisflakierversion,preferredinNorthAmerica.Theyeastedvarietybehavesmorelikebreadanddoesn’tkeepaswellastheflakykind.

MAKES24

PASTRY160gplainflour1/8tspsalt¼tspbakingpowderfinelygratedzestof1smalllemon(¾tsp)scrapedseedsof¼vanillapod125gunsaltedbutter,fridge-cold,cutroughlyinto3cmcubes125gcreamcheese,fridge-cold

FILLING40gwalnuthalves100gsoftlightbrownsugar½tspgroundcinnamon150gshop-boughtquincepaste(membrillo)1tsplemonjuice

TOGLAZE1largeegg,lightlybeaten25gdemerarasugar

1Tomakethepastry,placetheflour,salt,bakingpowder,lemonzestandvanillaseedsinafoodprocessorandblitzforabout15secondstocombine.Addthebuttercubesandblitzforafewmoreseconds,untilthemixturehasthetextureoffreshbreadcrumbs.Addthecreamcheeseandprocessjustuntilthedoughcomestogetherinaballaroundtheblade:becarefulnottoover-processorthepastrywillbetough.Tipthedoughontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandkneadforafewseconds,justtobringittogether.

2Dividethepastryintwo,wrapeachhalflooselyinclingfilm,thenpresstoflattenintodiscs.Transfertothefridgeforatleast1hour.

3Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingparchmentandsetaside.

4Topreparethefilling,spreadthewalnutsoutonabakingtrayandroastfor5minutes.Removefromtheoven,setasidetocool,thenchopfinelyandplaceinasmallbowlwiththebrownsugarandcinnamon.Mixtogetherandsetaside.

5Inaseparatebowl,combinethequincepasteandlemonjuicetoformasmoothpaste.Ifyourquincepasteisveryfirm,warmitgentlyoveralowheattosoften(orheatfor10secondsinamicrowave),untilthetextureisthicklikejambutspreadable,thensetasidetocoolbeforeusing.

6Takeoneofthepiecesofdoughfromthefridgeandrolloutonalightlyflouredworksurfacetoforma24cmcircle,about2mmthick.Useasmallspatulaorthebackofaspoontospreadhalfofthequincepasteevenlyoverthesurfaceandthensprinklewithhalfofthesugarandnutmixture.Usingasharpknifeorapizzawheel,ifyouhaveone,cutthedoughasthoughyouareslicingacakeinto12equaltriangles:thebestwaytogeteven-sizedtrianglesistocutitfirstintoquarters,theneachquarterintothirds.Oneatatime,rolleachwedgequitetightly,startingfromthewideoutsideedgeandworkingtowardsthepointofthetriangle,sothatthefillingisenclosed.Placethemonthelinedbakingtrays,seamsidedown,spacedabout3cmapart.Repeattherollingprocesswiththeremainingdiscofdoughandfillingingredients,thenchilltherugelachsinthefridgeforatleast30minutesbeforebaking.

7Increasetheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.

8Whenreadytobake,lightlybrushthetopsoftherugelachswiththeeggwashandsprinklewiththedemerarasugar.Bakefor20–25minutes,rotatingthetrayshalfwaythrough,untilgoldenbrownallover.Don’tworryifsomeofthefillingoozesout:thiswilladdalovelytoffeetastetotheedgesofthebiscuits.Removefromtheovenandallowtorestonthetraysfor5minutesbeforetransferringtoawireracktocoolcompletely.

Theadditionofthebakingpowderhere,andthefactthatthedoughismadeusingthe‘cutting-in’method(inafoodprocessorwithametalblade,ratherthanwhiskedinanelectricmixer),makesthepastrysolightandflaky.Thepresenceofthecreamcheesealsomakesitadreamtoroll.Formoreonthiscreamcheesepastry,seehere.

Thepastrycanbemadeadayaheadandkeptinthefridge,orfrozenforupto3months:remembertothawitovernightinthefridgebeforeusing.Therolledrugelachcanalsobefrozen(beforeglazing)forupto3months.Whenyouarereadytobakethem,brushwiththeglazeandbakefromfrozen,addinganextraminuteortwotothecookingtime.

Thesewillkeepforupto4daysinanopencontainer,separatedbypiecesofbakingparchment,andthewholethingwrappedlooselyinaluminiumfoil.Don’tkeeptheminanairtightcontainer:thesugarwill‘weep’ifyoudoandturntherugelachsoftandsticky.

Not-quite-Bonnie’srugelach

Mini-cakes

Welovemini-cakesforlotsofreasons.Beingabletoeatratheralotofthemisone.Theyalsolooksoverylovely,allmini-mesizedandoftenicedinbrightcolours,whichcan’thelpbutmakeyousmile.Andtheycomeinallshapesandsizes,whichmakesthemfuntomakeaswellastoeat.

Thischapterishome(sweethome)tosomanyofoursignaturecakes.Arrangedinrowsasneatandorderlyaslittlesoldiers,justthesightofourmini-cakespullshungrycustomersthroughthedoor.Andit’snothardtoseewhy,frankly.There’ssomethingabout‘mini’thingsthatencouragesespeciallybigcaretobetakenofthem,inthewaythey’remadeanddisplayed.Thereisalsosomethingaboutthemthatencouragespeopletomakespaceforthem,whetherit’smorning,noonornight.

Wehavesyrup-soakedmini-cakes,reminiscentofYotam’schildhood,gluten-freecakes,cakesdrenchedinboozycaramelandcakesthathavebeenonourshopcounterssincedayone–theFlourlessChocolate‘Teacakes’,forexample(seehere).Ifyouwanttobringoutyourinnercakeshop,thisisthechaptertostartcoveringwithspecksofchocolateandflour.

THESMALLERSOMETHINGIS,THEMOREYOUCANEAT›Somemini-cakesaresominiandlightthatyoufindyourselfeatingafewmorethanoneatatime!TheBabyBlackandOrangeCakes(seehere),forexample,oreitherofourPowderPuffs(seehere),whichcomeasclosetobitingthroughairaswecanimagine;super-lightspongecakes,heldtogetherwithwhippedcreamandfreshstrawberries;citrus-spikedcupcakes;littleandlightfreshmadeleines–theyareallbite-sizeddelights.

CAKESTORELAXWITH,CAKESTOREBELWITH›Othermini-cakesaremoreforthe‘usagainsttheworld’days,whensomethingdecadentisneededtosustainandstrengthen.It’snoteverydaythatyou’regoingtobemakingandeatingadoughnutpipedwithsaffroncustardcream,orabrowniefilledwithchunksofhalvaandswirlsoftahini.Butonthedaysyoudo,you’llbeguaranteedtoconquerallthatcomesyourway!

MAKETHEMINIMIGHTY›Althoughwetendtothinkofmini-cakesassomethingtobeenjoyedthroughouttheday,manyofthemalsoworkwellservedwiththesortoffanfareusuallyreservedfordesserts.Nooneisevergoingtofeelshort-changedwhenpresentedwiththeirveryownTahiniandHalvaBrownie(seehere),forexample,servedwithagenerousscoopofvanillaicecream,oraBananaCakewithRumCaramel(seehere)servedwithsomerumandraisinicecream.Withliterallyaspoonfulofhelp,mini-cakescanbemademighty.

HAVEYOURCAKEANDEATIT(ORNOT)›Mini-cakeslovetobeeatenonthedaythey’reiced.Therearealwaysthingsyoucandotogetahead–‘teacakes’(andevenasponge,ifyoureallyneedto)canbemadeadayinadvanceandkeptinanairtightcontainer–butalwaysholdbackonicinguntilthedayyouareplanningtoservethem.Youdon’twanttokeepanythingicedoutofthefridgefortoolong,andtheicingwilloftenloseitsshinyglossafteraday.Don’tbetoopreciouswithanyleftovers,however:they’llbefineinthefridgeforadayortwoforyoutosnackon.

Evenwhenun-iced,somecakesliketobeeatenonthedaytheyarebaked:theSaffron,OrangeandHoneyMadeleines(seehere),ortheHazelnutCrumbleCake(seehere),forexample.Othercakes,ontheotherhand,tastebetterthedayafterthey’remade:theflavoursandtextureofthePersianLoveCakes(seehere),forexample,deepenwithalittlebitoftime.

KitThefactthattheycomeinallshapesandsizesmeans,inevitably,thatmakingmini-cakesrequiresawidervarietyoftinsandtraysthanotherchapters.We’vetriednottogotoofarwithspecialistmouldsandtins,andwealwayssuggestalternativeswherewecansothatyoumaybeabletoimprovisewithwhatyoualreadyhave.Thatbeingsaid,thecostofatrayormouldisoftenthesamepriceastwoorthreeshop-boughtcakes,sothere’salwaysthatjustification,ifyouneedone,forpurchasingmorekit.Home-bakedbundtcakesforever!

Belowisalistofallthekityou’dneedwereyoutomakeeveryrecipeinthischapter.Alternativesaresuggested,whererelevant,andinstructionsgiveninindividualrecipesforamendingcookingtimestosuitthealternativetinsize.

REGULARMUFFINTINS›Thesehave12moulds:7cmwideatthetop,5cmwideatthebottom,and3.5cmdeep.

LARGE(‘JUMBO’)MUFFINTINS›Thesehave6moulds:8.5cmwideatthetop,6cmwideatthebottom,and4cmdeep.Youcouldusearegularmuffintininstead–you’lljustmakemoremuffins,smallerinsize,andthebakingtimewillneedtobereduced.

MINI-MUFFINTINS›Thesehave24moulds:about4cmwideatthetop,3cmwideatthebottom,and2–2.5cmdeep.Again,youcouldusearegularmuffintininstead–you’llmakefewerbutlargercakes.

BOTTOMLESSCAKERINGS›WeliketomakeourminiVictoriaSponges(seehere)in8cmwidecakerings.Alternatively,youcanmakeonelargecakeinstead–you’llneeda20cmroundspringformtinandwillneedtoincreasethecookingtimeaccordingly.Wealsousethesesmallcakeringsforourindividualcheesecakes,soifyouthinkyou’regoingtobemakingthesetoo,theringsareabitofkitworthhaving.

INDIVIDUALBUNDTTINS›Welovemakingour‘teacakes’inindividualbundttins,whichare10cmwideatthetopand5cmdeep.They’rebigenoughtobearealtreat,butlightenoughtonotbeintimidating,andexcitingenoughtoshare.Andthat’sbeforetheicinghasbeendrizzledover,fallingdownthesidesunevenlyaswellasthroughthewellinthecentreofthecake.Alternatively,youcanuseonelargebundttin:20cmwideatthetop,14cmwideatthebottom,and10cmdeep.Themethodwillbethesame,butthebakingtimewillneedtobeincreased.Youcouldalsousealargemuffintray–themouldsarenotquiteasbigasthebundt

tins,soyou’llgenerallymakeonemoremuffinthanbundt.SILICONEHALF-SPHEREMOULDS›WemakeourBabyBlackandOrangeCakes

(seehere)inthesesiliconetrayswithhole-shapedmoulds,5cmwideatthetopand2.5cmdeep.Theymakeforverycuteorb-shapedmini-cakes.Alternatively,ifyouhavethetraditionalmincepietinthatweuseforthePineappleTartletswithPandanandStarAnise(seehere),youcanusethisinstead.

SMALLRECTANGULARSILICONEFINANCIERMOULDS›WemakeourPersianLoveCakes(seehere)insmall8x3x3cmrectangularmoulds.Youcouldalsomaketheseinaregularmuffintin,butmakesureyouusepaperliners:thecakeswon’tcomeoutiftheyareonlygreasedandfloured.

MADELEINETRAYS›OurSaffron,OrangeandHoneyMadeleines(seehere)aremadeinstandardmadeleinetrays,theshell-shapedmouldsofwhichareabout7.5x5cm.Availableinsiliconeormetal,wefarpreferthemetal–youdon’tgetthenicecrustinthesiliconetray–buteitherisfine;you’lljustneedtogreaseandflourthemetaltraybeforethebatterisadded.Thetraysusuallyhave12moulds,butbecauseitissoveryeasyforonepersontoeataboutathirdofthese,wewouldencourageyoutobuytwotraysratherthanoneandmake24!Madeleinesaresomuchabouttheirshape,butifyoudoneedanalternative,amini-muffintinwouldwork,oradomedtraditionalmincepietin.Ineithercaseyouwilljustmakemorecakes,smallerinsize.

POPOVERTINS›Similartolargemuffintins,with6largemoulds,butwithstraightsides:6.5cmwideand5cmdeep.WeliketomakeourStrawberryandVanillaMini-cakes(seehere)inpopovertins,butaregularorlargemuffintinwouldalsowork.

MINI-LOAFTINS›WemakeourChocolateGuinnessCakeswithBaileysIrishCream(seehere)inmini-loaftinswhichare9.5x6.5cmatthetopand7x4cmatthebottom.Youcanconverttherecipeintoonelargercake,ifyoulike,usingan18cmroundspringformtin.Thechangesyou’llneedtomaketotherecipeareallwritteninthekitnotehere.

NOSPECIALTINSORTRAYS›Ifyoudon’twanttostockyourcupboardswithanymorekit,that’sfine–weunderstand!Doughnuts,browniesandpowderpuffsareyourfriends.

RecipeListPersianlovecakes

Saffron,orangeandhoneymadeleinesLemonandraspberrycupcakes

PowderpuffsTahiniandhalvabrownies

Lemon,blueberryandalmond‘teacakes’HazelnutcrumblecakewithGianduja(orNutella)icing

BabyblackandorangecakesStrawberryandvanillamini-cakes

VictoriaspongewithstrawberriesandwhitechocolatecreamBananacakeswithrumcaramelBlackberryandstaranisefriandsCoffeeandwalnutfinanciersFlourlesschocolate‘teacakes’

LemonandsemolinasyrupcakesRoma’sdoughnutswithsaffroncustardcream

ChocolateGuinnesscakeswithBaileysIrishCream

Persianlovecakes

TheselittlePersiancakescametousbywayofourGlaswegiancolleagueJohnMeechan,whoadaptedthemfromaGerardYaxleyrecipeinGourmetTraveller.John’sstrokeofgeniuswastoaddbuckwheatflour,distinctiveforitsnuttyandslightlysourtaste,andthemahleb,aspicemadefromgrindingtheseedkerneloftheStLuciecherry.ThespiceisnotoftenusedoutsideofGreece,TurkeyandtheMiddleEast,sodon’tworryifyoucan’tgetholdofany:afewdropsofalmondextractworkwellasanalternative.

Thecakescanbeservedwarm,withoutthemascarpone,pistachioandpomegranateseedtopping,oratroomtemperaturewithallthetoppings.Presentation-wise,it’sanicelittletricktolayapieceofbakingparchmentontopofeachcake,onthediagonal,helddownflat,andsprinkletheicingsugarovertheexposedsideofthecake.

MAKES12

240ggroundalmonds135gdemerarasugar135gsoftlightbrownsugar50gbuckwheatflour80gunsaltedbutter,fridge-cold,cubed¾tspsalt160gGreek-stylenaturalyoghurt90geggs(roughly1½largeeggs)1tbspmahleb(or¼tspalmondextract)¾tspgroundnutmeg

TOSERVE(ATROOMTEMPERATURE)60gmascarpone1½tsppistachiokernels,sliveredorfinelycrushed12pomegranateseeds(optional)icingsugar,fordusting

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

2Placethegroundalmonds,bothsugars,flour,butterandsaltinafoodprocessorandblitzafewtimes,untilthemixturehastheconsistencyofbreadcrumbs.Transfertwo-thirdsofthemix–about430g–toalargebowlalongwiththeyoghurt,eggs,mahlebandnutmeg.Mixtocombineandsetaside.

3Linethebaseof12financier(ormuffintin)mouldswiththeremainingthirdofthecrumbmix:itshouldcomeaboutathirdofthewayupthesidesofthemoulds.Useyourfingersorateaspoontopressthemixintothebaseofthemoulds,asyouwouldacheesecake,sothatitiscompact.

4Usingtwoteaspoons,filleachmouldtothetopwiththeyoghurtmix,andleveloffwithapaletteknifeforanevenfinish.Placethemouldsonabakingtrayandcookfor30–35minutes,rotatingthetrayhalfwaythrough,untilthecakesaredarkgoldenbrownontopandaskewerinsertedintothecentrecomesoutclean.Thecakeswilllookslightlyuncookedanddampinside,butthisisthewaytheyshouldbeandispartoftheircharm.Allowthecakestocoolintheirtinsfor15–30minutesbeforeunmouldingthem.Serveastheyare,slightlywarm,orleavetocoolbeforespooningalittlemascarponeontopofeachcakeandtoppingwiththecrushedpistachiosand1pomegranateseed,ifusing.Sprinklealittleicingsugarononehalfofeachcake,atadiagonal(seeintroduction),andserve.

Wemakeourcakesinsmallrectangularsiliconefinanciermoulds,whichlooksoelegant.Alternatively,usearegularmuffintin.

Thesecakesareattheirbestthedayaftertheyaremade.Theycanbeeatenontheday,however,andkeptforupto2daysinasealedcontainer(withoutthemascarponetopping).Theydon’tkeepformuchlongerthanthis–whichissurprising,givenhowmoisttheyare–becausethetexturebecomesabitgummy.Oncethecakeshavebeentoppedwiththemascarpone,theycanbestoredinthefridgeandbroughtbacktoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

Persianlovecakes

Saffron,orangeandhoneymadeleinesTraditionally,madeleinesarebesteatenasclosetocomingoutoftheovenaspossible.Thebeatingtogetheroftheeggsandsugarmakesthemsuperlightandfluffy,butit’salltheairincorporatedintothemthatalsomakesthemdryoutsoquicklyiflefttositaroundfortoolong.

Here,untraditionally,weforgoallthebeatingandjustplacetheingredientsinafoodprocessor.Mixingthemthiswaymeansthattheresultingmadeleineswon’tbequiteaslightasthosemadebyhand-whisking,butthey’reeverybitasdelicateandbutteryasyou’dhope.Wedoitthiswaytobuildinalittlebitofrobustness,whichallowsthemtostillbeeatenhours(ratherthanminutes)aftertheycomeoutoftheoven.

Welovethesaffronhere,butthespiceisnottoeveryone’sliking(particularlyinasweetcontext),soyoucanleaveitout,ifyouprefer,andfocusontheorangeandhoneyinstead.

MAKESABOUT22

90gunsaltedbutter,plusanextra20g,melted,forbrushing2tsphoney,plusanextra3tbsp,forglazing

¼tspsaffronthreads(optional–seeabove)2largeeggs75gcastersugarscrapedseedsof¼vanillapodfinelygratedzestof1smallorange(1tsp)90gplainflour,plusextrafordusting1tspbakingpowder1/8tspsalt20gshelledpistachiokernels,finelyblitzed

1Placethebutter,honeyandsaffronthreads(ifusing)inasmallsaucepanoveralowheatuntilthebutterhasmelted.Removefromtheheatandsetasidetocometoroomtemperature.

2Placetheeggs,sugar,vanillaseedsandorangezestinafoodprocessorandmixuntilsmoothandcombined.Sifttheflour,bakingpowderandsaltintoabowl,thenaddtotheeggmixture.Pulseafewtimes,justtomixin,andaddthecooledbutter,honeyandsaffronmixture.Processoncemore,tocombine,thenpourthebatterintoasmallbowl.Coverwithclingfilmandallowtorestinthefridgeforaboutanhour.

3Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Ifyouareusingmetalmadeleinetrays,brushthemouldswithmeltedbutterandsprinkleliberallywithflour.Siliconetraysshouldnotneedanygreasingorflouring,butyoucanlightlybrushwithalittlemeltedbutterhere,ifyoulike.Taptoensurethatallthemouldsaredustedandthenshakeofftheexcessflour.

4Spoonaheapedteaspoonofbatterintoeachmould:itshouldrisetwo-thirdsofthewayupthesidesofthemoulds.Ifyouonlyhaveonemadeleinetray,placetheremainingbatterinthefridgeuntilyouhavebakedthefirstbatch.Youwillneedtowashanddrythemouldcompletelybeforegreasingandflouringagainandrepeatingwiththesecondbatch.

5Bakefor9–10minutes,untilthemadeleinesarebeginningtobrownaroundtheedgesandtheyspringbackoncetappedlightlyinthemiddle.Removethetray(s)fromtheovenandsetasideforaminutebeforereleasingthecakes.Thebestwaytodothis,withametaltray,istogoaroundtheedgesofeachmadeleinewithasmallknifeorspatula(tomakesuretheyarenotstuck)andthentaptheedgeofthetrayonthebenchuntiltheyfallout.Withasiliconetraytheyshouldjustfalloutoftheirmoulds.Transferthecakestoawireracktocool.

6Piletheblitzedpistachiosontoaplateinastraightlineandsetaside.Meltthe3tablespoonsofhoneyinasmallsaucepan(amicrowaveisalsogoodhere)untilveryrunny,thenbrushlightlyovertheshell-patternedsideofonemadeleine.Withtheshellsidefacingdowntowardsthenuts,rollthenarrowerendofthemadeleinealongthepileofpistachiossothatyouhaveastraight1cmstripofpistachiosatthebaseofthemadeleine.Repeatwiththeremainingmadeleines,andplaceonaservingplatter,nutsideup.

Ideally,useastandardmadeleinetrayhere–metalorsilicone.

Thesearebesteatenonthedaytheyaremade,asfreshfromtheovenaspossible.Weknowit’snotmadeleineprotocol,butleftoverscanbekeptinanairtightcontainerandeatenastheyare(withoutneedingtobewarmedthrough)thefollowingday.

Saffron,orangeandhoneymadeleines

Lemonandraspberrycupcakes

Thedifferencebetweenacupcakethatstandsthetestoftimeandonethatvanishesintoobscurityis,wethink,alltodowiththeicing.Theactualcakehastobelight,tenderandmoist,ofcourse,buttheicinghastobesensational.Isitnotthereason,secretly,whysomepeoplechoosecupcakesinthefirstplace?Here,thesimpletrickofwhippingthelemoncurdintothemascarponeworksanabsolutetreat.

Makingyourownlemoncurdissatisfyinganddelicious,butfeelfreetoshortcutandbuysomeready-made,ifyoulike.Sincediscoveringa‘seriouslyzesty’own-brandsupermarketversion,Helenadmitsthatherrateofproductiononthehomemadelemoncurdfronthasratherreduced.

MAKES12

LEMONCURD1largeegg,plus2extraeggyolks90mllemonjuice(from2lemons;thezestoftheselemonsneedstobeusedforthecake

batter,sogratethezestbeforejuicing)90gcastersugar75gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cutinto2cmcubesCUPCAKES125gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperaturefinelygratedzestof2lemons(2tsp)225gcastersugar3largeeggs120gsouredcream160gplainflour1½tspbakingpowder¼tspsalt150gfreshraspberries,plus12extraforgarnish(about60g)ICINGpreparedlemoncurd(270g)300gmascarpone

1Makethelemoncurd.Whisktogetherthewholeeggandeggyolksinabowlandsetaside.Putthelemonjuiceandsugarintoasmallsaucepanandplaceoveramedium-highheat.Stiruntilthesugardissolves,then,assoonasitcomestotheboil,pourthesyrupovertheeggs,whiskingthewholetime.Returnthemixturetothesaucepanandcookoveralowheatfor4–5minutes,stirringconstantlywithawoodenspoonuntilthemixturehasthickenedandoneortwobubblesappearonthesurface.

2Removefromtheheatandstirinthebutter,onecubeatatime,waitinguntileachpiecemeltsbeforeaddingthenext.Whenallthebutterhasmeltedandthemixtureissmooth,transferthecurdtoacleancontainerandcoverthesurfacewithclingfilm:youwanttheclingfilmtoactuallytouchthesurfacetopreventitformingaskin.Setasidetocoolcompletelybeforeplacinginthefridgeuntilneeded.

3Preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5andlinethe12mouldsofaregularmuffintinwithpaperliners;ifyoudon’thaveliners,brushthemouldsandthetopofthemuffintraywithbarelymeltedbutteranddustalloverwithflour,tappingawaytheexcess.

4Tomakethecupcakes,placethebutter,lemonzestandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeedforabout3minutes,untilthemixislightandfluffy.Addtheeggs,oneatatime,scrapingdownthepaddleandsidesofthebowlaftereachaddition.Addthesouredcreamandbeatuntilincorporated.Sifttheflour,bakingpowderandsaltintoabowlandaddthistothemixer.Continuetomixuntilcombined,againscrapingdownthepaddleandsidesofthebowl.Increasethespeedtohighandbeatforanother20seconds.Reducethespeed,addtheraspberriesandmixforjustafewsecondssothatthefruitbreaksupandthemixtureisroughlyrippledwiththeraspberries.

5Spoonthebatterintothepaperliners–theywillbenearlyfull–andbakeforabout22minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofacakecomesoutclean.Setasideinthetraytocoolfor5minutesbeforetransferringthecakestoawireracktocoolcompletely.

6Maketheicingwhenthecupcakesarecool.Placethelemoncurdandmascarponeinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Whiskonamediumspeeduntilthick,about1minute,thenuseasmallspatulaorbutterknifetoicethecakes.Finishwithawholeraspberryinthecentreofeachcake,adustingoficingsugarandserve.

Thelemoncurdcanbemadeupto3daysbeforeicingthecakesandstoredinthefridge.Topreventlemonzestfromdryingout,popitinazip-lockbagorplasticcontainerandfreezeit,whereitwillkeepforacoupleofmonths.

Oncebaked,thecakesarebesteatenonthesameday.Ifun-iced,theywillkeepinanairtightcontainerforanextraday.

Lemonandraspberrycupcakes

Powderpuffs(RASPBERRYANDROSEONLY)HelenhadherfirsttasteofpowderpuffsatafuneralinVictoria,Australia,

over20yearsago.Tooembarrassedtoaskwhattheywere–afuneralisnotimetobesourcingrecipes!–HelenwonderedabouttherecipeforyearsbeforeshecameacrossitagainthankstoStephanieAlexander,whoseinsightsintothemagicofsifting(threetimes),aswellasnotover-mixingallowedthepennytodropforHelen.

Lookingatthebiscuitsalone,you’dbeforgivenforwonderingwhatallthefussisabout.They’renothingmorethanbakedsponges–alittleliketheItalianSavoiardibiscuitsusedtomaketiramisu.It’swhenthey’resandwichedtogetherandlefttosoftenforseveralhours,however,thattheybecomesoverylightthatyoufeelasthoughyou’rebitingintothinair.

We’veincludedtwoversionshere:raspberryandrosefortheheightofsummer,andchocolateandchestnutforamoreautumnalfeel.Strawberryjamandthevanillawhippedcreamfromthechocolateandchestnutversionaregoodalternativestotheraspberryjamandrosewater,ifyoudon’thave(orlike)rosewater.

MAKESABOUT24

Raspberryandrose3largeeggs,whitesandyolksseparated½tspcreamoftartar180gcastersugar1tspvanillaextract75gplainflour70gcornflour½tspbicarbonateofsoda1/8tspsaltabout130graspberryjam15gicingsugar,fordusting

ROSEWHIPPEDCREAM300mldoublecream25gicingsugar,sifted

1¼tsprosewater

Chocolateandchestnut3largeeggs,whitesandyolksseparated½tspcreamoftartar180gcastersugar1tspvanillaextract75gplainflour50gcornflour½tspbicarbonateofsoda1/8tspsalt3tbspDutch-processedcocoapowder,plusanextra1tbspfordusting250gsweetened

chestnutspread1½tspicingsugar,fordusting100gmarronglacésinsyrup,thinlysliced(optional)

VANILLAWHIPPEDCREAM300mldoublecream25gicingsugar,sifted½tspvanillaextract1/8tspsalt

1Preheattheovento210°C/190°CFan/GasMark6.Linefourbakingtrayswithbakingparchment(orlinetwotrays,andcooktheminbatches).

2Placetheeggwhitesinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplaceandbeatonamedium-highspeedforabout1minute,untilfrothy.Addthecreamoftartarandcontinuetobeatforanotherminuteuntilsoftpeaksform.Graduallyaddthesugarandkeepwhiskingforabout5minutes,untilthemixtureformsastiffandglossymeringue.Addthevanillaextractandtheeggyolks,oneatatime,andcontinuetobeatuntiljustcombined.

3Placetheflour,cornflour,bicarbonateofsoda,saltandcocoapowder,ifmakingtheChocolatePuffs,inabowl.Sifttwicebeforesiftingforathirdtimeintothebowlwiththemeringuemixture:it’svitaltosiftthreetimesheretoaeratethemixtureasmuchaspossible.Foldthedryingredientsintothebattergentlybutthoroughly,stoppingassoonasit’scombined.Donotstirthemixtureagainafterthispoint.

4Use2teaspoonstodropheapedspoonfulsofthemixontothelinedtrays.Theyshouldbeabout4cmwideandspaced5cmapart.Don’tbetemptedtouseapipingbaghere,asalltheairwillbeknockedout.Placeintheovenandbakefor11–12minutes,rotatingthetrayshalfwaythrough,untilgoldenbrownaroundtheedgesandstartingtogocrisp.Removefromtheovenandsetasideforabout10minutes,untilcompletelycool.Ifyouneedtocookthemintwobatches,removethefirstbatchwithapaletteknifeoncecooked,thenwipedownthebakingparchmentwithaslightlydampclothbeforecontinuingwiththenextbatch.

5Gentlyeasethebiscuitsawayfromtheparchmentpaperandseparatethemintosimilar-sizedpairs.

6Tomaketherosecream,placethecream,icingsugarandrosewaterinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Whisktogetheronahighspeedforaboutaminute,untilsoftpeaksform,takingcarenottoover-whiskoritwillbecomethickandgrainy.Tomakethevanillacream,placethecreaminthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Addthesugar,vanillaandsaltandwhiskonahighspeedforaboutaminute,untilsoftpeaksform,takingcarenottoover-whiskoritwillbecomethickandgrainy.

7Atleast5hours(oranythingupto24hours)beforeserving,spreadatablespoonofthewhippedcreamontothebaseofhalfofthebiscuits,followedbyabout½teaspoonofjamifmakingtheRaspberryPuffs,oraheapedteaspoonofthechestnutspreadifmakingtheChocolatePuffs.Sandwichtogetherwiththetopbiscuitsandplacethepuffsinthefridgeforaround4hours–layeredwithbakingparchmentinanairtightcontainer–untilthebiscuitsarecompletelysoftened.Removethepuffsfromthefridgeanhourbeforeserving–theyneedtoberoomtemperatureratherthanfridge-cold.IfmakingtheRaspberryPuffs,justdustwithicingsugar.IfmakingtheChocolatePuffs,sifttheicingsugarintoabowlwith1tablespoonofcocoapowderandsprinklethroughafine-meshsieveovereachpuff.Placeapieceofmarronglacéontop,ifusing,alongwithasmalldrizzleofthesyrup,andserve.

Siftthreetimes–Oneofthesecretstotheincrediblepillow-ylightnesshereisinthesiftingoftheflour

threetimes.Thoughalwayspassionateaboutthebenefitsofsifting,Helenispositivelyevangelicalabouttheneedtosiftnotonceortwicebutthreetimes.Thiswillcreatetheaerationyouneedtoproducethefluffyresults.Don’tover-workthemix–Keytosuccess,also,isnottoover-workthemix:thereshouldn’tbeanymorestirringaftertheflourhasbeenfoldedin,otherwiseairpocketswillbecreatedandthemixturewilldeflate.Givethemthetimetheyneedtositaroundandsoften–It’salsoimportanttogivethebiscuitsthetimetheyneed,oncesandwichedtogetherwithcream,toreallysoften.Theyareniceandsoftafter5hours,butcanhappilybeleftforupto24hoursinthefridge.

Afterbaking,theun-sandwichedbiscuitscanbestoredforupto5daysinanairtightcontainer.Theycanalsobefrozenforupto3months.

Oncesandwichedtogether,theycanhappilybeleftforupto24hoursinthefridge:justholdbackondustingwiththeicingsugar(ifusing);thisneedstobesprinkledoverjustbeforeserving.Removefromthefridgeaboutanhourbeforeserving:youwantthemtoberoomtemperature,notfridge-cold.

RaspberryandrosePowderpuffs

ChocolateandchestnutPowderpuffs

Tahiniandhalvabrownies

Thecombinationoftahini,halvaandchocolateissogoodthatsomemembersofstaff(Tara,weseeyou!)hadtoputatemporarybanontheireatingoftheseparticularbrowniesduringthemakingofthisbook.Itisveryhardtoeatjusttheone.

Inordertoachievetheperfectbalanceofcakeyandgooey–thatsweetspotthatallbrowniesshouldhit–thecookingtimeiscrucial.Itwillvarybyaminuteorsobetweendifferentovens,anddependingonwherethetrayissittingintheoven,sokeepacloseeyeonthem.

MAKES16

250gunsaltedbutter,cutinto2cmcubes,plusextraforgreasing250gdarkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),brokeninto3–4cmpieces4largeeggs

280gcastersugar120gplainflour30gDutch-processedcocoapowder½tspsalt200ghalva,brokeninto2cmpieces80gtahinipaste

1Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Greaseandlinea23cmsquareor30x20cmrectangularbakingtinwithbakingparchmentandsetaside.

2Placethebutterandchocolateinaheatproofbowloverapanofsimmeringwater,makingsurethatthebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewater.Leaveforabout2minutes,tomelt,thenremovethebowlfromtheheat.Stirthrough,untilyouhaveathickshinysauce,andsetasidetocometoroomtemperature.

3Placetheeggsandsugarinalargebowlandwhiskuntilpaleandcreamyandatrailisleftbehindwhenyoumovethewhisk:thiswilltakeabout3minuteswithanelectricmixer,longerbyhand.Addthechocolateandfoldthroughgently

usingaspatula–don’tover-workthemixhere.

4Sifttheflour,cocoaandsaltintoabowl,thengentlyfoldintothechocolatemixture.Finally,addthepiecesofhalva,gentlyfoldthroughthemix,thenpourorscrapethemixtureintothelinedbakingtin,usingasmallspatulatoevenitout.Dollopsmallspoonfulsofthetahinipasteintothemixinabout12differentplaces,thenuseaskewertoswirlthemthroughtocreateamarbledeffect,takingthemarblingrighttotheedgesofthetin.

5Bakeforabout23minutes,untilthemiddlehasaslightwobbleanditisgooeyinside–theymaybereadyanywherebetween22and25minutes.Ifusingthe30x20cmtin,theywillneedacoupleofminutesless.Theymayseemalittleunder-cookedatfirst,buttheyfirmuponcetheystarttocooldown.Ifyouwanttoservethemwarm-ish(andgooey),setasideforjust30minutesbeforecuttinginto16pieces.Otherwise,setasideforlongertocooltoroomtemperature.

Wemadetheseina23cmsquarebakingtin,buta30x20cmrectangulartinalsoworkswell.

Thesewillkeepwellforupto5daysinanairtightcontainer.Theyalsofreezewell,wrappedinclingfilm,foruptoamonth.Whenyoutakethemoutofthefreezer,theyareuncommonlygoodeatenatthehalf-frozen,half-thawedstage.

Tahiniandhalvabrownies

Lemon,blueberryandalmond‘teacakes’We’vealwayscalledthese‘teacakes’atOttolenghi.There’snolinktothetraditionalraisin-filledbreadycakethat’stoastedandslatheredwithbutter–it’smoretodowithhowgoodtheytastewithacupoftea.Wemaketheseinamuffintin–withoutapaperliner,inordertokeeptheedgesneatandstraight–invertingthemontoawirerackbeforedrizzlingwithicing.‘Upside-down-muffins’soundsalotlesselegantthan‘teacakes’,however,sowe’vetakenthelibertyofkeepingthemisnomerbothhereandelsewhere.

MAKES12

190gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cubed,plusextraforgreasing190gcastersugarfinelygratedzestof1lemon(1tsp)4largeeggs,lightlybeaten190ggroundalmonds45gplainflour,plusextrafordusting¼tspbakingpowder1/8tspsalt60mllemonjuice100gblueberries,plusanextra70gtogarnish

ICING160gicingsugar35mllemonjuice

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°C/GasMark4.Greaseall12mouldsofaregularmuffintinwithbutteranddustlightlybutthoroughlywithflour.Tapawayanyexcessflourandsetaside.

2Placethebutter,sugarandlemonzestinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeeduntillight,thenaddtheeggsandgroundalmondsinthreeorfouralternatebatches.Sifttheflour,bakingpowderandsaltintoabowl,thenaddthistothemixerandreducethespeedtolow.Finally,addthelemonjuice.Spoonthemixtureintothemoulds

anddividethe100gofblueberriesbetweenthecakes:pushthemdownslightlysothattheysinkintothecakemix.Thereasonwedothis(ratherthanstirringthemthroughthebatter)istoensurethateachcakegetsanequalnumberofblueberries.

3Bakefor30–35minutes,untiltheedgesarelightlygoldenandaskewerinsertedintothemiddleofacakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheoventocoolfor10minutesbeforegentlytappingthecakesoutontoacoolingracksothattheyaresittingupsidedown.Setasideuntilcompletelycool.

4Tomaketheicing,combinetheicingsugarandlemonjuiceinabowlandstiruntilithasathickpouringconsistency.Spoontheicingoverthecakes:youwantittodribbledownthesidesalittlewithoutcoveringthecakesentirely.Dottheremainingblueberriesinthecentreofeachcake–youshouldhaveenoughfor3ontopofeachcake–andserve.

Un-iced,thesekeepwellfor3daysinanairtightcontainer.Theyalsofreezewell.Onceiced,they’rebeststoredinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeandeatenwithinacoupleofdays.

Lemon,blueberryandalmond‘teacakes’

HazelnutcrumblecakewithGianduja(orNutella)icingIntheshopsweuseGiandujachocolateforouricing,whichwe’recrazyabout:withitsadditionofhazelnutpaste,it’sthemostwonderfulmatchforthehazelnutcrumble.Youcanfinditinchocolateshopsoronline;however,we’vealsoofferedaversionwithNutellainstead(admitit–weknowyou’vegotajarofitsomewhere).

WiththankstoBelindaJeffery,thewonderfulAustraliancookwhosewalnutcakerecipethisisadaptedfrom.

SERVES11(USINGINDIVIDUALBUNDTTINS)OR12–14(USINGONELARGEBUNDTTIN)

250gsouredcream130gfull-fatGreekyoghurt1½tspbicarbonateofsoda3largeeggs280gcastersugar250gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cutinto3cmcubes,plusextraforgreasing1tbsp

rumorbrandy2tspvanillaextract460gplainflour,plusextrafordusting2tspbakingpowder1tspsalt10ghazelnuts,blanchedorskinon,thinlysliced(useamandoline,ifyouhaveone,butdon’t

worryiftheyseemtocrumblemorethanslice)HAZELNUTCRUMBLE80ghazelnuts,blanchedorskinon80gcastersugar1¼tspgroundcinnamon¼tspsalt

GIANDUJAGANACHE150gGiandujachocolate,choppedinto1cmpieces100mldoublecream

NUTELLAGANACHE80gmilkchocolate(60%cocoasolids),choppedinto1cmpieces80gNutella100mldoublecream

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Forthecrumble,spreadthehazelnutsoutonabakingtrayandroastfor12minutes,untiltheybegintocolourandsmellnutty.Removefromtheovenand,ifstartingwithskin-onhazelnuts,placetheminthemiddleofacleanteatowel,drawinthesidesandrubtogethersothatthebrownpaperyskinfallsoff.Ifstartingwithblanchednuts,justsetthemasidetocool.Oncecooled,placethenutsinafoodprocessor,addthesugar,cinnamonandsaltandprocessuntilthenutsarefinelychopped.Setaside.

2Increasetheovenheatto200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Greaseandflourthebundttinsandsetaside.

3Tomakethecake,placethesouredcreamandyoghurtinamediumbowlandwhiskinthebicarbonateofsoda.Leavetostandfor15minutesforthemixturetopuffupandbecomelightandairy.

4Meanwhile,placetheeggsandsugarinafoodprocessorandprocessforaminutetocombine.Addthebutterandprocessforanotherminute.Don’tworryifthemixturelooksalittlecurdledatthispoint:itwillcometogetherintheend.Stirtherumorbrandyandvanillaintothesouredcreammixtureandaddthistothefoodprocessor.Usethepulsebuttontocombineafewtimes,scrapingdownthesidesofthebowltoensurethatthebatterisevenlydistributed.Tipthemixtureintoalargebowl.Sifttheflour,bakingpowderandsaltintoaseparatebowl,thenstirthisintotheeggandbuttermixtureuntilthebatterisjustcombined.

5Transferthebattertoapipingbagandpipeathinlayerintothebottomofthepreparedtins.Sprinkleagenerousamountofthenutcrumbleallover:aboutathird(betweenallthetins).Continuetolayerthebatterandnutmixsothatyouhave3layersofbatter,finishingwithalayerofnuts.Pressthislastlayerofnutsgentlyintothecakebatterwithaspatula(sothattheydon’tfalloutwhenthecakesarebakedandinverted).

6Placethecakesintheovenandbakefor25minutes(or55–60minutes,ifmakingonelargecake),oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofacakecomesoutclean.Setasideinthetinsfor10minutestocool,beforegently

looseningthesidesandinvertingontoawireracktocoolcompletely.

7TomaketheGiandujaganache,placethechocolateinabowlandsetaside.Putthecreamintoasmallsaucepanandplaceoveramediumheat.Heatfor1–2minutes,untilbubblesbegintoformattheedgesandthecreamstartstocometotheboil.Removeimmediatelyfromtheheat,thenpouroverthechocolate.(IfmakingtheNutellaversion,combinethechocolateandNutellainabowlandpouroverthehotcream.)Leaveforacoupleofminutesbeforestirringthechocolateuntilsmooth:theganacheshouldnotbesothinthatitjustdribblesoffthecakes,butnotsothickthatitdoesn’tdribbleatall.Spoonitoverthecooledcakessothatitdripsevenlydownthesides.Ifyouaremakingonelargecake,youcaneitherspoonalloftheganacheover,orspoonoverabouttwo-thirdsandservetheremainderalongsideeachportion.Finally,sprinklewiththeslicedhazelnutsandserve.

We’veusedindividualbundttinshere,butyoucanmakeitinonelargebundttin,ifyouprefer.Youwillalsoneedapipingbagtolayerthebatterintheindividualtins(youcanjustpouritintothelargetinanduseaspatulatospreaditout).

Thecrumblemixturecanbepreparedupto2daysaheadandstoredinanairtightcontaineruntilreadytouse.

Hazelnutsbehavelikenoothernutsandthecakesalwaysdryoutreallyquickly,soarebesteatenonthedaytheyaremade.They’llbefinethefollowingday,justnotattheirbest.

HazelnutcrumblecakewithGianduja(orNutella)icing

BabyblackandorangecakesWeliketomakethesesimple‘teacakes’bite-sized,thenbagupamixofblackandorangetogiveasgifts.They’reespeciallyfuntomakearoundHalloween,readyforsweet-toothedtrick-or-treaters.We’vegivenbothversionsofthecakesinonerecipe,soeitherchoosetomakeoneortheother,orboth,ifyouwantthemix.Inthiscaseyou’llneedtodoublethequantityofeggwhite,castersugarandmeltedbutterneeded.Makebothbatchesseparately,though,frombeginningtoend(ratherthanwhiskingupdoubletheeggmixalltogetherandthendividingitintwo).

MAKESABOUT22

60geggwhites(from1½largeeggs)80gcastersugar70gunsaltedbutter,melted,plusextraforgreasing

FORBABYORANGETEACAKES30gplainflour20ggroundalmonds10gcornflourfinelygratedzestof1orange(1½tsp)

ORFORBABYBLACKTEACAKES20gplainflour20ggroundalmonds25gDutch-processedcocoapowder

1Preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.Lightlygrease22holesofyoursiliconemouldormini-muffintinandsetaside.It’sfinetocookthemixintwobatchesifyouneedto:thebatterishappytowait.

2Placetheeggwhitesandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Whiskonamedium-highspeedforabout2minutes,untilthesugarisdissolvedandthemixisthick,glossyandheavy.Youcancheckthatitiswhiskedenoughbyfeelingalittleofthemixbetweenyourthumband

forefinger:youshouldbarelybeabletofeelthesugargranules.Keepthemixeronamedium-highspeedandslowlypourthemeltedbutterdownthesideofthebowl.Beatuntilcombined,scrapedownthesidesofthebowlandreducethespeedtolow.

3IfmakingtheBabyOrangeTeacakes,sifttheflour,almondsandcornflourintoabowl,thenaddtothemixeralongwiththeorangezest.FortheBabyBlackTeacakes,sifttheflour,almondsandcocoaintoabowl,thenaddtothemixer.Mixtocombine,turnoffthemachineandscrapedownthesidesofthebowl.

4Useapipingbag(ortwoteaspoons)tofillthemouldsaboutthree-quartersfull.Bakefor12minutes,untilthecentreofthecakesspringsbackwhentouched.Allowtorestinthemouldsfor10minutesbeforeturningthemoutontoawireracktocoolcompletely.

Wemakethesecakesinsiliconehalf-spheremouldswhichare5cmacrossand2cmdeep.Alternatively,youcanuseamini-muffintin:theywon’thavetheircuteorbshapebutthey’llstillbeperfectlybite-sized.

Thesewillkeepforupto3daysinanairtightcontainer.

Strawberryandvanillamini-cakesThecombinationofstrawberryandvanillaisanotheronethattakesYotamstraightbacktohischildhood.It’safoodmemorysolovedthatheconvertedthismini-cakerecipetocreateonelarge‘number1’-shapedcakeforthefirstbirthdayofhissecondson,Flynn.Ifyou’dalsoliketodothis,themethodremainsthesame,butthebakingtimewillneedtobeincreased.Asaguide,Yotam’sgreatbig‘1’tookjustover60minutestobake.

MAKES12(USINGLARGEMUFFINTINSORPOPOVERTINS)OR18(USINGREGULARMUFFINTINS)

250gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,plusextraforgreasing250gcastersugar1tspvanillaextractscrapedseedsfrom½vanillapod4largeeggs,lightlybeaten120gself-raisingflour,plusextrafordusting¼tspsalt140ggroundalmonds200gstrawberries,hulledandcutinto1cmdice6wholestrawberries(or9ifusingaregularmuffintin),cutinhalflengthways,or2tbsp

freeze-driedchoppedstrawberries,togarnish(optional)STRAWBERRYICING60gstrawberries,hulledandroughlychopped300gicingsugar20gliquidglucose(orlightcornsyrup)scrapedseedsof¼vanillapod

1Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Greaseandflourthemouldsofyourchosentins.

2Placethebutter,sugar,vanillaextractandseedsinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamediumspeeduntillight,thenaddtheeggs,alittleatatime,scrapingdownthesidesofthebowlafewtimesasyougo.Addingtheeggsgraduallyshouldpreventthemixsplitting,butdon’tworrytoomuchifitdoes:itmightlookabitcurdled,butthiswillnotaffectthefinalresult.Continuetobeatuntilfullycombined.Sifttheflourandsaltintoa

bowl,thenstirinthegroundalmonds.Reducethespeedofthemixertomedium-low,thenaddthedryingredientsinthreebatches,andfinallyfoldinthedicedstrawberries.

3Spoonthemixtureintothepreparedmoulds–itshouldcomeaboutthree-quartersofthewayupthesides(abouttwo-thirdsinaregularmuffintin)–andbakeforabout22minutes(about20minutesinaregularmuffintin),rotatingthetrayhalfwaythrough,untilaskewerinsertedintothemiddleofoneofthecakescomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandallowtositfor15–20minutesbeforeeasingthecakesoutofthemoulds.Transfertoawireracktocoolcompletelybeforeicing.

4Tomaketheicing,placealltheicingingredientsinafoodprocessorandblitztogetheruntilsmooth.Drizzlethetopsoftheupturnedcakeswiththeicing,allowingittodripdownthesides.Ifusing,garnishwithhalfafreshstrawberryoneachcake,cutsidefacingup,orasprinkleofdriedstrawberries.

Weusepopovertinsforthesecakes,whicharefairlylarge.Alargeorregularmuffintincouldbeusedasanalternative.

Whethericedorun-iced,thesewillkeepforupto3daysinanairtightcontainer.Theydon’tlooktheirbestafterthefirstday,butthetastewillnotbeaffected.

Victoriaspongewithstrawberriesandwhitechocolatecream

Nothingsays‘summergardenparty’morethanthis:thelight-as-airsponge,theseasonallysweetstrawberries,thewhitechocolatecream...Addafreshlymownlawnandacupofteaandyou’rethere.AtleastthatwasourvisionbeforethesewereshotforthebookbyPeden+Munk.Taylor(thePedensideoftheteam)delightedinbringingalittlebitofanarchy(or‘pileup’,ashepreferredtocallit)tosomeofourmorecomposedpresentations.Perfectlyorganized,neatmini-cakesreceivedtherequisiteTaylortreatmenthere,andwecouldnotbemoredelightedwiththeresults.

Thesecrettothesponge–whichislightasair,butalsorichandbuttery–istherelianceonairbeingwhippedintotheeggsastheraisingagent,ratherthanchemicalleaveners.Meltedbutteristhentrickledintothecakebatterandfoldedinforextrarichness.Allthisrequiresadeftandlighthand(andabitofelbowgreasetobeginwith),buttheresultisadeliciouslyversatilespongeforyourrepertoire.There’ssomethingalittlebitmagicaboutmakingaperfectgenoisesponge.Behindthemagic,though,there’squitealotofmethod.Noneofitiscomplicated;allofitisimportant.Formoreonmakingtheperfectgenoise,seehere.

SERVES8(8INDIVIDUALCAKESORONELARGECAKE)

WHITECHOCOLATECREAM70gwhitechocolate,finelychopped70mldoublecream,plusanextra120mltofinish

STRAWBERRIES250ghulledstrawberries,roughlychopped70gcastersugar1½tsplemonjuice

SPONGE

4largeeggs100gcastersugarscrapedseedsof½vanillapod(keepthepodforthestrawberryjam)finelygratedzestof1

lemon(1tsp)60gunsaltedbutter100gplainflour1/8tspsalt150ghulledstrawberries,sliced0.5cmthick1tspicingsugar,fordusting

1Tomakethewhitechocolatecream,placethechocolateinamediumbowlandsetaside.Putthecreaminasmall,heavy-basedsaucepanandplaceoveramedium-lowheat.Cookuntilitisjuststartingtosimmer,thenpourthehotcreamoverthechocolate.Leavetositfor3minutes,forthechocolatetosoften,thenstirgentlyuntilthechocolateismeltedandfullycombined.Coverwithclingfilmandrefrigeratefor1houruntilcompletelycold.

2Tocookthestrawberries,placethestrawberries,sugarandlemonjuiceinasmallsaucepan(alongwiththeemptyvanillapod)andmixwell.Bringtotheboiloveramediumheatandcookfor4–5minutes,stirringregularly,untilthesugarhasmeltedandthemixturehasthickened.Removefromtheheatandsetasidetocool.

3Preheattheovento170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.Linealargebakingtraywithbakingparchmentandplaceeight8cmcakerings,ungreasedandunlined,ontopandsetaside.Ifmakingthisina20cmroundspringformtin,youdon’tneedthebakingtray,butyouwillneedtolinethebottomofthetinwithbakingparchment.

4Putenoughwaterintoamediumsaucepansothatitrisesabout5cmupthesides:youwantthebowlfromyourelectricmixertobeabletofitinthesaucepanandsitoverthewaterwithoutactuallytouchingit.Bringthewatertoaboil,thenreducetoasimmer.

5Tomakethesponge,placetheeggs,sugar,vanillaandlemonzestinthebowlofanelectricmixerandplacethebowlontopofthesaucepanofsimmeringwater,makingsure(again)thatthebottomofthebowlisnottouchingthewater.Whiskcontinuouslybyhandforabout5minutes,untilthemixtureisfrothy,

creamyandwarm.Removethebowlandplaceitontheelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Whiskonahighspeeduntilthemixturehastripledinvolumeandisnolongerwarm.

6Whilethemixisbeatinginthemixer,meltthebutterandsetasidetocool.Combinetheflourandsaltinabowlandsiftittwice.Whentheeggmixturehastripledinvolumeandisnolongerwarm,sifthalftheflour(yes,athirdsift!)directlyoverthemixtureandgentlyfolditinwithalargerubberspatula.Sifttheremainingflouroverthemixtureandfoldinagain.Nowdrizzlethecooled,meltedbutterdownthesidesofthebowl.Foldingentlyandswiftlytoincorporate.

7Spoonthemixtureintothecakerings–itshouldbefilledtwo-thirdsofthewayupthesides–andbakefor15–18minutes(or25minutesifbakingonelargecake),oruntilthecakesarealightgoldenbrownandthespongespringsbackwhenlightlypressedinthemiddle.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolfor20minutes,intherings,beforeusingasmallknifetoremovethem:takeabitofcarehere,topreventthecakestearingorstickingtothesides.Transfertoawireracktocoolcompletely.

8Whenreadytoassemble,placethewhitechocolatecreaminthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Addtheextra120mlcreamandwhiponamedium-highspeedforabout30secondsuntilcombinedandthick.Itshouldjustholdonthewhisk–itcanover-whipveryquickly,sobecareful.

9Cutthecakeshorizontallyacrossthecentreandspreadthecookedstrawberriesonthecutsideofthebottompiece(discardthevanillapod).Spoonhalfofthewhitechocolatecreamontop,followedbytheslicedstrawberries,followedbytheremainingwhitechocolatecream.Finishwiththetophalfofthesponge.Ifyouhavemadeonelargecake,takecarewhenslicingitinhalf;you’llneedtosupportitunderneathwhenliftingitbackontopofthecreamandstrawberries.Ifyouhaveacakelifterorjumbocookiespatula,nowisthetimetouseit!Dustwithicingsugarandserve.

Wehaveused8cmwidecakeringshere.Butifyoudon’thaveeightofthese,makeonelargecakeina20cm

roundspringformcaketininstead.

Thespongeisbestmadeonthedayit’sserved,butcanbemadeadayahead,ifnecessary,andkeptinanairtightcontainer.Itcanalsobefrozen,wrappedinclingfilm,foruptoamonth.

Onceassembled,thecakesshouldbeeatenonthesameday,andtheclosertoassemblythebetter,ascreamdoesnotliketositaroundfortoolong.

Victoriaspongewithstrawberriesandwhitechocolatecream

BananacakeswithrumcaramelBananabreadcansometimesfeelliketheplaceover-ripebananasgotowhennooneelsewantsthem.Thesedecadentcakes,ontheotherhand,feelliketheplacetheygotoparty,abottleofruminhand.

MAKES6(USINGINDIVIDUALBUNDTTINS)OR7(USINGLARGEMUFFINTINS)

100gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cutinto2cmcubes,plusextraforgreasing70gcastersugar

70gsoftlightbrownsugar2largeeggs1tspvanillaextract110gself-raisingflour,plusextrafordusting100ggroundalmonds2tbspmaltedmilkpowder(e.g.Horlicks)1/8tspsalt½tspgroundcinnamon¾tspbicarbonateofsoda2–3ripemediumbananas,peeledandmashed(225g)100gsouredcream2tbspdarkrum

RUMCARAMEL200gcastersugar125mlwater130mldoublecream1½tbspdarkrum

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Lightlygreasethebundtormuffintins,dustwithflourandsetaside.

2Placethebutterandsugarsinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeedforabout3minutes,untillightbutnottoofluffy.Addtheeggs,oneatatime,beatingwellaftereachaddition,thenaddthevanillaextract.Beatforanotherminutetocombine.

3Sifttheflour,almonds,maltedmilkpowder,salt,groundcinnamonandbicarbonateofsodaintoalargebowl:notallthealmondswillmakeitthroughthesieve,butit’sokaytotipinanythatdon’tmakeit.Whisktocombineandsetaside.

4Placethemashedbananasinaseparatebowlwiththesouredcreamandrum.Mixwell,thenaddaquarterofthistothebutter-sugarmixture,beatingonalowspeedtoincorporate.Addaquarterofthedrymix,continuingtobeat,andcontinueinbatcheswiththeremainingwetanddryingredientsuntileverythingiscombined.

5Spoonthemixtureintothepreparedtins,fillingthemaboutthree-quartersofthewayupthesides.Bakefor25–28minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofacakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandsetasideintheirtinsuntilcompletelycool.Oncecool,placethecakesonawirerackwithatrayorsheetofbakingparchmentunderneath.

6Makethecaramelwhilethecakesareintheoven.Placethesugarandwaterinamediumsaucepanandstirtocombine.Bringtotheboil,thensimmeroveramedium-highheatfor8–10minutes,untilthemixbeginstochangecolourandbecomesadeepambercolour.Resisttheurgetostir,butgentlyswirlthepanfromtimetotimetodistributetheheat.Removefromtheheatandcarefullystirinthecreamandrum.Ifthemixtureseizesup,returnthepantoalowheatandstirthemixuntilsmooth.Setasideforabout30minutesinthepan,thendrizzleliberallyoverthecakes,allowingtheicingtodripunevenlydownthesides.

Wemaketheseinindividualbundttins,butyoucanalsousealargemuffintin.

Un-iced,thesewillkeepfor5daysinanairtightcontainer.Onceiced,theyshouldbeeatenwithin24hours.

Bananacakeswithrumcaramel

BlackberryandstaranisefriandsTheselooksplendidwheniced–destinedfortoprankingonanytieredcakestand–butalsoworkun-iced,inthecookietin,forgrabbingonawhim.They’lllosetheirslightlychewyedgeafterthefirstdayorso,butstilltastegreat.Blueberriesorraspberriescanbeusedinsteadoftheblackberries.Don’tusestrawberries,though:theyaretoowatery.

MAKES12

180gunsaltedbutter,plusanextra10g,melted,forbrushing60gplainflour,plusextrafordusting

200gicingsugar120ggroundalmonds1½tspgroundstaranise(or3wholestaranise,blitzedinaspicegrinderandpassedthrough

afine-meshsieve)1/8tspsalt150geggwhites(from4largeeggs)finelygratedzestof1smallorange(1tsp)18wholeblackberries(about120g),cutinhalflengthwaysICING(OPTIONAL)60gblackberries(about8),plusanextra24smallblackberries,togarnish¾tbspwater1tsplemonjuice165gicingsugar

1Preheattheovento220°C/200°CFan/GasMark7.Brushthe12holesofaregularmuffintinwiththemeltedbutterandsprinklealloverwithflour.Tapthetraygentlytoensureanevencoatingoftheflour,thenturnupsidedowntoremovetheexcess.Placeinthefridgetochillwhileyoumakethebatter.

2Tobrownthebutter,placeinasmallsaucepanandcookoveramediumheatuntilmelted.Continuetocookuntilthebutterisfoaming,gentlyswirlingthepanfromtimetotime,toallowthesolidstobrownmoreevenly.Youwillseedarkbrownsedimentsbegintoformonthesidesandbottomofthepan.Continuetoallowthebuttertobubbleawayuntilitturnsarichgoldenbrownandsmellsoftoastednutsandcaramel.Removethepanfromtheheatandletitstandfor5minutes,toallowtheburntsolidstocollectatthebottomofthepan.Strain

throughafine-mesh(ormuslin-lined)sieve,discardingthesolids.Allowthebrownedbuttertocoolslightlybeforeusing.Itshouldstillbewarmwhenfoldingintothemixlater:ifitistoohot,itwill‘cook’theeggwhites;ifitistoocool,itwillbedifficulttoincorporateintothemix.

3Whilethebutteriscooling,sifttheflour,icingsugar,groundalmonds,staraniseandsaltintoabowl.Placetheeggwhitesinasmallbowlanduseawhiskorforktofroththemupforafewseconds–youdonotneedtowhiskthemcompletely.Pourtheeggwhitesintothesifteddryingredientsandstiruntiltheyareincorporated.Addtheorangezestandbrownedbutterandmixuntilthebatterissmooth.

4Removethemuffintinfromthefridgeandfillthemouldsjustovertwo-thirdsofthewayupthesides.Placethreehalvedblackberriesontop,cutsidedown,andbakefor10minutes.Reducethetemperatureto210°C/190°CFan/GasMark6–startingwithahighoventemperatureandthenbringingitdownisthewaytoachievethelovelybrowncrustyouwant–turnthetrayaroundintheovenforevencooking,andcontinuetocookforanother8minutes,untiltheedgesofthefriandsaregoldenbrownandthecentreshaveaslightpeakandspringbackwhengentlyprodded.Setasidetocoolbeforeremovingthemfromtheirmoulds:youmightneedtouseasmallknifetohelpyoureleasethesides.

5Ifyouareicingthecakes,place60gofblackberriesinasmallbowlwiththewaterandlemonjuice.Useaforktomashthemtogether,thenpassthemixturethroughafine-meshsievetoextractasmuchfruitjuiceaspossible:youshouldgetabout60ml.Sifttheicingsugarintoamediumbowl,pourintheblackberryjuiceandcombinetomakealightpurplerunnyicing:itshouldjustbethickenoughtoformathinglazeonthetopsofthecakes.Spoontheicingoverthecakes,spreadingittotheedgessothatitrunsdownthesides.Dothisonarack,ifyoucan,asicingthemonaplateorsheetofpapermeansthattheicingwillpoolatthebottom.Place2smallblackberriesoneachfriand,setasidefor20or30minutestoset,thenserve.

Weusearegularmuffintinhere,butallsortsofmouldswork:largemuffintins,mini-muffintins,rectangularorovalmoulds(asshowninthephoto).

Un-iced,thesewillkeepforupto4days.Iftheweatheriswarm,storetheminthefridgeandzaptheminthemicrowaveforafewseconds(literally3seconds!)torestoretheirbutterymoisture.Theycanalsobefrozenforupto3months,thenthawedinthefridgeandwarmedthroughina170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3ovenfor5minutes;thiswillrestoretheircrispedges,aswell.Onceiced,they’rebesteatenonthesameday.

Blackberryandstaranisefriands

CoffeeandwalnutfinanciersFinanciers,likethelittleblocksofgoldthey’renamedafter,typicallycomeintheshapeofarectangle.Weliketomaketheminstraight,high-sidedpopovertins,aswehavehere,sothattheicingcantrickledownthesides.

Thesetinsarenotwidelyavailable,however,sowehaveadjustedtherecipetoworkineitheraregularmuffinoramini-muffintin.Asmini-muffins,theyprovidetheperfectendtoameal,toaccompanyyourcoffee.

Financiersaresimilartofriands,anotherlittleFrenchcakewhoseeleganceandsveltenesssomehowbetraysquitehowmuch(burnt)butterisbuiltintotheirbeing.It’sthis‘beurrenoisette’thatgivesfinancierstheirrichandnuttyflavour.

MAKES12(USINGAREGULARMUFFINTIN)OR24(USINGAMINI-MUFFINTIN)

80gwalnuthalves,plusanextra12–24halvestogarnish120gunsaltedbutter,cutinto2cmcubes,plusextraforgreasing220gicingsugar

90gplainflour,plusextrafordusting1tspbakingpowder¼tspsalt80ggroundalmonds230geggwhites(from6largeeggs)1tbspinstantcoffeegranules,dissolvedin70mlboilingwater1½tspfinelygroundespresso

coffee(suchasLavazza)

ICING250gicingsugar2½tspinstantcoffeegranules35mlhotfull-fatmilk15gliquidglucose

1Preheattheovento170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.Spreadthewalnutsoutonabakingtrayandroastfor10minutes.Removefromtheovenand,whencoolenoughtohandle,roughlychoptheminto0.5–1cmpieces.Setasideuntilreadytouse.

2Tomakethebatter,startbybrowningthebutter.Placethebutterinasmallsaucepanandcookoveramediumheatuntilmelted.Continuetocookuntilthebutterisfoaming,gentlyswirlingthepanfromtimetotime,toallowthesolidstobrownmoreevenly.Youwillseedarkbrownsedimentsbegintoformonthesidesandbottomofthepan.Continuetoallowthebuttertobubbleawayuntilitturnsarichgoldenbrownandsmellsoftoastednutsandcaramel.Removethepanfromtheheatandletitstandfor5minutes,toallowtheburntsolidstocollectatthebottomofthepan.Strainthroughafine-mesh(ormuslin-lined)sieve,discardingthesolids.Allowthebrownedbuttertocoolslightlybeforeusing.Itshouldstillbewarmwhenfoldingintothemixlater:ifitistoohot,itwill‘cook’theeggwhites;ifitistoocool,itwillbedifficulttoincorporateintothemix.

3Whilethebutteriscooling,sifttheicingsugar,flour,bakingpowderandsaltintoamediumbowl.Addthealmondsandwhisktocombine.Placetheeggwhitesinamixingbowlanduseawhiskorforktofroththemupalittle–youwillnotneedtowhiskthemcompletely.Pourtheeggwhitesanddissolvedcoffeegranulesintothedryingredientsandstiruntiljustcombined.Addthebrownedbutterandmixuntilthebatteristhick,shinyandsmooth.Foldinthewalnutsandgroundcoffee,thencoverwithclingfilm–makingsurethatitactuallytouchesthesurfaceofthebatter–andtransfertothefridgeforatleast2hours.

4Preheattheoventemperatureto200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Butterthemouldsofyourchosenmuffintinanddustwithflour.Tapawayanyexcessflour,thenspoonthebatterintoeachmould,fillingthemthree-quartersfull.Bakeforabout25minutesifusingaregularmuffintin,or14minutesforamini-muffintin,oruntilthetopsarealittlecrackedandaskewerinsertedintothecentrecomesoutclean.

5Maketheicingwhilethecakesareintheoven.Sifttheicingsugarintoamediumbowlandaddtheremainingingredients.Mixuntilsmoothandsetaside:don’tworryifthereareundissolvedcoffeegranulesintheicing–theselookgood!

6Removethetinfromtheovenandsetasidefor5minutes,beforegentlytappingitagainstyourworksurfacetoencouragethecakestofallout.Ifthereareanystubbornbitsstickingtothetin,useabutterknifetogentlyeasethem

out.Placethefinanciersonawireracktocoolcompletely.Toserve,spreadtheicingontopandfinishwithawalnuthalf,adustingoficingsugarandalittlefinelygroundespressopowderifyoulike.

Thebattercanbemadeandkeptinthefridgeforupto2days.

Oncebaked,financiersarebesteatenonthesameday,butthesewillkeepforupto2daysinasealedcontainer,evenaftericing.Theicingwillsetalittlebutthetastewon’tbeaffected.

Coffeeandwalnutfinanciers

Flourlesschocolate‘teacakes’

Our‘teacakes’–unlikethemorebread-liketeacakes,densewithraisins–arelight,airyandgluten-free.Theyworkwithacupofafternoontea,butarealsorichenoughtosatisfyasadessert,withadecorativeshardofalmondpraline.

WewereintroducedtowaterganachebyColleenMurphyduringhermanyyearswiththecompany.Itmightsoundlikeacontradictioninterms–aganache?withoutcream?!–butit’ssomethingwe’rereallykeenon,bothforitsstability–itdoesn’tloseitsshineinthewaythatacream-basedganachecan–andalsoforthesmoothanddirect‘purechocolate’hititbrings.

Don’tbetemptedtoskiptherestingstagebeforethecakeisbaked:it’sreallyimportanttoallowthegroundalmondstofullyabsorbtheliquids,asthisiswhatmakesthecakesasmoistascanbe.

MAKES6‘TEACAKES’(USINGINDIVIDUALBUNDTTINS)OR12REGULARMUFFINS(USINGAMUFFINTIN)

160gunsaltedbutter,cubed,plusanextra20g,melted,forbrushing200gdarkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),roughlychopped160gcastersugar

1tspinstantcoffeegranules,dissolvedin1tspboilingwater25mlAmaretto160ggroundalmonds5largeeggs,yolkandwhitesseparated¼tspsalt

WATERGANACHE85gdarkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),roughlychoppedinto2cmpieces35gcastersugar35gliquidglucose60mlwaterscrapedseedsof½vanillapod35gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cutinto2cmcubes

1Tomakethe‘teacakes’,placethebutterandchocolateinalargeheatproofbowloverapanofsimmeringwater,makingsurethebaseofthebowlisn’ttouchingthewater.Whiskthemixtureand,whenmelted,removethebowlfrom

theheat.Addhalfthesugar,alongwiththecoffee,Amaretto,almondsandeggyolks.Stirtocombineandsetaside.

2Placetheeggwhitesandsaltinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Whiskonahighspeedforabout1minute,untilsoftpeaksform.Slowlyaddtheremainingsugarandcontinuetowhiskforabout3–4minutes,untilyougetalightanddrymix.

3Spoononedollopoftheeggwhiteintothechocolateandfoldtocombinebeforegentlyfoldingintheremainder.Setaside,atroomtemperature,foranhourtorest.

4Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Brushthebaseandsidesofthebundtormuffintinsliberallywithmeltedbutter:allowtheexcesstodrainawaybyplacingthemupsidedownonsomekitchenpaper.

5Oncethecakemixhasrested,spoonorpipeitintothe6moulds(or12,ifmakinginthemuffintin),fillingthemthree-quartersfull.Placethemouldsonabakingtrayinthecentreoftheovenandbakefor20–25minutes,rotatingthetrayhalfwaythrough,untilthecakesarecookedandaskewerinsertedintothecentreofacakecomesoutwithjustafewcrumbsattached(notwetbatter).Removefromtheovenandallowthecakestositfor10minutesbeforeinvertingthemouldsontoawirecoolingrack.Setasideuntilcompletelycoolandthengentlytapoutthecakes.

6Tomaketheganache,placethechocolateinamediumbowlandsetaside.Putthesugarandglucoseinasmallsaucepanandplaceoveramedium-lowheat.Stirtocombineand,whenthesugarhasmelted,increasetheheattomediumandbringtotheboil,stirringgentlyfromtimetotime.Continuetoboilforabout7minutes,untilthecolourisapaleamber.Removefromtheheatandcarefullypourinthewater.Don’tworryifthemixseizes:justreturnthepantotheheat,addthescrapedvanillaseedsandstirgentlyandcontinuouslyuntilitreturnstotheboil.Removefromtheheatandwaitforaminutebeforepouringthewater-carameloverthechocolate.Allowtostandfor5minutes,thenwhisktocombine.Addthebutter,acoupleofcubesatatime,whiskingaftereachaddition.Continueuntilallthebutterhasbeenadded,whiskingtocombineuntilthemixissmoothandshiny.

7Spreadsomewaterganacheoverthetopofeachcake,allowingittogentlydribbledownthesides.Setasidetocoolandlettheganachesetbeforeserving.

Youcanmakethesein6individualbundttins,orinaregularmuffintin.

Theganachecanbekeptatroomtemperature(coveredwithclingfilmwhichistouchingthesurfaceoftheganache)forupto4days.Itcanalsobekeptinthefridgeforupto2weeks,andthenbroughtbacktoroomtemperaturebeforespreading.

Un-iced,thecakeswillkeepinasealedcontainerforupto4days.Onceiced,theyarebesteatenonthedayofserving,butwillkeepforupto2days:theicingwillloseabitofitssheen,butthetastewillbeunaffected.

Flourlesschocolate‘teacakes’

LemonandsemolinasyrupcakesSyrupcakesremindYotamofhischildhoodinJerusalem,wheresyrup-soakedcakes–perfumedwithorangeblossom,rosewaterorasmackofcitrus–wereeverywhere.Somoistastobepositivelydrenched,thesegoverywellastheyarewithmorningcoffee,afternoontea,orservedafteramealwithsomeyoghurt,souredcreamorcrèmefraîche.

Thethinsliceoflemonsittingontopofthecakesprovidesanextracitrushitthatwelove,butwealsoknowthatourtoleranceforeatinglemon(inallforms)ishigherthanthatofothers.Someloveit,somedon’t–aproblemsolvedbythefactthatitcaneasilyberemovedbeforeeating,ifdesired.

MAKES8

120gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,plusextraforgreasing135gcastersugar1½lemons(thewholelemonisfinelygratedtogive1tspzest,andsqueezedtogive20ml

lemonjuice;the½lemonisverythinlyslicedinto8rounds)100ggroundalmonds2largeeggs,lightlybeaten70gfinesemolina½tspbakingpowder1/8tspsalt

SYRUP60mllemonjuice50gcastersugar

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Grease8mouldsofaregularmuffintinandlineeachmouldwithsquaresofbakingparchmentsothatitrises2cmupthesides.

2Placethebutter,sugarandlemonzestinanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonahighspeedforabout3minutes,untillightandfluffy,thenaddthegroundalmonds.Mixforaminutebeforegraduallyaddingtheeggs.Reducethespeedtolowandaddthesemolina,bakingpowderandsalt.Mixfor30seconds,untilincorporated,thenpourinthelemonjuice.Divide

themixturebetweenthemuffincasesandplaceasliceoflemonontopofeachcake.

3Bakefor25–30minutes,untilthecakesaregoldenbrownontop,thelemonslicesarestartingtocaramelizeandaskewerinsertedintothecentreofacakecomesoutclean.

4Makethesyrupwhilethecakesarebaking.Putthelemonjuiceandsugarinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboiloveramedium-lowheat.Stirtodissolvethesugarandsimmerfor2–3minutes.Removefromtheheatand,assoonasthecakescomeoutoftheoven,brushorspoonthesyrupliberallyoverthetop.Setasidetocoolbeforeliftingthemoutofthemuffintin:keepeachcakeinitsparchmentpaperwhenserving,though–theylooklovelyastheyare.

Thesekeepwellfor3daysinanairtightcontainer.

Roma’sdoughnutswithsaffroncustardcream

Thisrecipeisadapted(somuchsoastobeunrecognizablefromtheoriginal!)fromaclippingHelen’smother-in-law,RomaKausman,torefromtheJerusalemPostin1973.Romausedtomakedoughnuts–sufganiyots–atHanukkah,butwecan’tthinkofanycelebrationatwhichasugar-coateddoughnutisnotwelcome,toremindeveryonehowperfectlysweetlifecanbe.

Weknowyou’renotgoingtomaketheseeveryday–they’realotofwork–butmuchofthetimeisspentwaitingforthedoughtoprove.Wehaveputthedoughinthefridgeovernightafterthefirstprovetoreducetheamountoftimeyou’llneedtowaitforittoproveonthedayyou’replanningtofryandeatthedoughnuts.Butalltheeffortyouputinwillberewarded,wepromise.Andyou’llthenbeabletosaythatyoumadeyourveryowndoughnuts!

Provingthedoughnutsonsmallsquaresofbakingparchmentisimportant:theywilldeflateifyoutrytoliftthemwithyourfingers,andthepaperwillhelpyoutotransferthemtotheoilwithouthavingtotouchthem.Andyes,thepaperalsogoesintotheoil:itfeelsstrangetodothis,buttrustus(oractuallytrustPeterGordon,fromwhomwefirstlearntthetechnique).Oncethedoughnutsstartfrying,thepapernaturallyseparatesandcanthenbefishedoutwithtongs.

Ifyouarelookingforshortcuts,thesaffroncustardcanbereplacedbyamoretraditionalstrawberryjam.Thebrandycanalsobeskipped,ifyoulike:itaddsalovelysubtleflavour,butthere’senoughgoingon,flavour-wise,ifyoudon’thaveabottlearoundandopen.

MAKES10

DOUGHNUTS130gstrongbreadflour130gplainflour,plusextrafordusting20gcastersugar

2tspfast-action(oreasy-bake)driedyeast¼tspsalt25gunsaltedbutter,meltedfinelygratedzestof1smallorange(1tsp)1largeeggyolk70mlfull-fatmilk,warmedthroughuntiltepid70mltepidwater1tspbrandy(optional)about1litresunfloweroil,forfrying

SAFFRONCUSTARDCREAM160mlfull-fatmilk1/8tspsaffronthreads2largeeggyolks50gcastersugar1packedtbspcornflour(10g)scrapedseedsof¼vanillapod25gunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpieces80mldoublecream

CARDAMOMSUGAR80gcastersugar1tspgroundcardamom(seehereforhowtomakeyourown)

1Tomakethedoughnuts,placebothfloursinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththesugar,yeastandsalt.Useahand-heldwhisktocombine,thenaddthedoughhookattachment.Addthemeltedbutter,orangezestandeggyolkandmixonamedium-lowspeedforabout30seconds.Combinethemilk,waterandbrandy,ifusing,inasmalljugandthen,withthemachinestillrunning,graduallypourthisintotheflourmix.Whenalloftheliquidhasbeenadded,increasethespeedtomedium-highandmixfor3–4minutes,scrapingdownthesidesofthebowlifyouneedto,untilthemixtureissmoothandelastic.

2Tipthedoughontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandkneadgently–addingalittlemoreflourifnecessary–untilsmoothandnolongersticky.Placeinalightlyoiledbowl,coverwithclingfilmandsetasideinawarm,draught-freeplaceuntilthedoughhasdoubledinsize:thiscantakebetween1and4hours,dependingonthetemperatureofyourkitchen.Whenthedoughhasdoubledinsize,knockitdownwithyourfist,coverwithclingfilmandplaceinthefridgeovernight.

3Tomakethecustard,placethemilkandsaffronthreadsinasmallsaucepan.Heatgentlyuntilthemilkisjustcomingtoasimmerandbubblesarebeginningtoformaroundthesides.Inthemeantime,combinetheeggyolkswiththesugar,cornflourandvanillaseedsinasmallbowlandwhisktogethertoformapaste.Whenthemilkisjustcomingtoasimmer,slowlywhiskhalfofitintotheeggyolkmixture(ithelpstohaveadampclothunderneaththebowltosteadyitwhileyouwhiskwithonehandandpourwiththeother),beforewhiskingthisbackintotheremaininghotmilk.Cookoveramedium-lowheatforabout5minutes,whiskingcontinuously,untilverythickandsmooth.Whenyouliftsomeofthemixoutofthepanitshouldholdontothewhiskforafewsecondsbeforefallingoffinonebigblob.Removefromtheheatandwhiskinthebutter,onepieceatatime,untilfullycombinedandsmooth.Transferthecustardtoacleanbowlorjug,coverwithclingfilm–youwantittobeactuallytouchingthesurfacetopreventaskinforming–andsetasideinthefridgeuntilcompletelychilled.Thecustardkeepswellinthefridgeforacoupleofdays,soit’sagoodideatomakethisthedaybeforethedoughnutsaremade.

4Cutout10squaresofbakingparchmentmeasuring10x10cmandarrangeontwolargebakingtrays.Oncethedoughhasbeeninthefridgeovernight,tipitontoyourworksurface,rollroughlyintoalogandthencuttheloginto10pieces,eachweighingapproximately45g.Shapeeachintoaroundball–thisisbestdonebyplacingeachpieceontheworksurface,cuppingyourhandoveritandthenapplyingsomepressurewhileyourollitaroundintoasmoothsphere.Placeeachballononesquareofbakingparchment.Coverthetraylooselywithoiledclingfilmandsetasidesomewherewarmtorisetoalmostdoublethesize.Again,thiscantakeanywherebetween45minutesand4hours,dependingonthetemperatureoftheroom.

5Tomakethecardamomsugar,mixtogetherthesugarandcardamominawidebowlandsetaside.

6Whenthedoughnutsarereadytofry,fillamediumpan(about18cmwide)withenoughoilsothatitrises5cmupthesidesofthepan.Heattheoilto180°C.Totestthattheoilisready,eitheruseadeep-frythermometer,ordropasmallpieceofbreadintothepan:ifitrisesstraighttothesurfaceandturnsgoldenbrowninabout1minute,itishotenough.

7Liftingtheballsonthebakingparchment,gentlydropthreeballsatatimeintotheoil,papersideup(thepaperisdroppedintotheoiltoo).Fryinbatchesfor3minutes–turningoverhalfwaythrough–untilgoldenbrownonbothsides.Astheycook,thepaperwillslideawayand,asitdoes,usetongstoliftitoutanddiscard.Useaslottedspoontoliftthedoughnutsoutastheycook.Drainthembrieflyonkitchenpaperbeforerollingtheminthecardamomsugar.Theycannoweitherbeeatenhot,astheyare,orsetasideuntilbarelywarmbeforebeingpipedwiththesaffroncustardcream(orjam:seeintroduction).

8Whenreadytofillthedoughnuts,finishmakingthecustardfillingbyplacingthedoublecreaminamediumbowland,usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskuntilsoftpeaksform.Addthecooledcustardandverylightlywhisktogetheruntiljustcombined.

9Pushasmallknifethroughonesideofthedoughnut,twistinggentlytocreatealittletunnelthroughthecentre.Fillapipingbagwiththecustardandpipeaboutatablespoonintoeachone.

Youwillneedapipingbagtopipethecustardfilling.

Thesaffroncustardcanbemadeupto2daysinadvance(whipitwiththecreamjustbeforeserving)andkeptinthefridge.Thedoughmustbestartedadayinadvanceasitiskeptinthefridgeovernight.

Oncefried,thedoughnutsarebesteatenonthesameday.

Roma’sdoughnutswithsaffroncustardcream

ChocolateGuinnesscakeswithBaileysIrishCream

TherecipeinNigellaLawson’swonderfulbook,Feast,inspiredourversionofthesecakes.WehaveamplifiedtheIrishelementinheroriginalrecipebypipingBaileys-infusedmascarponecreamintothemiddleofthecakes.ThankstoDanielKarlssonforthisidea.Thisisthenfollowedbyalightdrizzleofchocolateganache,followedbyshavingsofchocolate!Itsoundsextravagant,weknow,butit’sactuallyareallyeasycaketomake,allwhiskedtogetherinonebowl.

Thesecrettomakingareallyshinychocolateganacheistouseafoodprocessor,aswedohere.

SERVES8

120mlGuinness120gunsaltedbutter,cubed,plusextraforgreasing30gDutch-processedcocoapowder200gcastersugar65gsouredcream1largeegg2tspvanillaextract130gplainflour¼tspsalt1tspbicarbonateofsoda5gchocolate(70%cocoasolids),shavedwithapeeler(thisisaboutasquareofchocolate,but

it’shardtoshavesuchasmallamount,sojustshaveitofftheblockyouhave)BAILEYSCREAM

125gmascarpone45mlBaileysIrishCream40gicingsugar,sifted

CHOCOLATEGANACHE100gdarkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),choppedinto2cmpieces100mldoublecream1½tspgoldensyrup1½tspunsaltedbutter,softened

1Preheattheovento195°C/175°CFan/GasMark5.Greaseandlinethelongsideandthebaseofeightsmallloaftinswithastripofparchmentpaper.Allowa2cmoverhangoneachsidetohelpyouliftoutthecakeslateron.

2PlacetheGuinnessandbutterinamediumsaucepanoveramediumheat.Stirgentlyuntilthebutterhasmelted,takingcarethatitdoesnotcometotheboil.Siftthecocoapowderandsugartogetherintothepanandwhiskintothemix,thentransfertoamediumbowl.

3Inaseparatebowl,whisktogetherthesouredcream,eggandvanilla,thenpourthisintotheGuinnessmix,whiskingasyoudoso.Sifttheflour,saltandbicarbonateofsodatogetherintoabowl,thenwhiskthisintothemixtureuntilsmoothandcombined.Pourthebatterintothetinsandbakefor20minutesoruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolfor10minutesbeforegentlyeasingthemout,usingtheparchmentpaperoverhangtohelpyou.Gentlyrunaknifearoundtheunlinededgesiftheyarestuck,thenplaceonawireracktocoolcompletely.

4TomaketheBaileyscream,whisktogetherthemascarponeandBaileysusinganelectrichand-heldwhisk,ifyouhaveone,orbyhand.Addtheicingsugarandcontinuetobeatonalowspeeduntilthemixtureiscombined.Increasethespeedtomedium-highandwhiskuntilthecreamisthickenoughtospread.Keepinthefridgeuntilreadytoserve.

5Whenthecakesarecompletelycool,makeacutineachcakebyrunningasmallparingknifedownitscentre,leaving2cmuncutateitherend.Transferthecreamtoapipingbagfittedwitha1½cmwidenozzle.Gentlyeasethepipingbagintotheopeningofthecutsideofeachcakeandpipeinthecreamuntilitstartstooozeout.

6Tomakethechocolateganache,placethechocolatepiecesinafoodprocessor,blitzuntilfineandsetaside.

7Putthecreamandgoldensyrupinasmallpanandplaceoveramedium-highheat.Assoonasbubblesbegintoappear–justbeforeitcomestotheboil–removefromtheheat.Getthefoodprocessorrunningagain,withthechocolatestillinside,andpourinthehotcreaminasteadystream.Processforabout10seconds,thenaddthebutter.Continuetoprocessuntilthemixtureisshinyand

smooth.

8Youcanalsomaketheganachebyhand:justmakesurethechocolateischoppedfairlyfinelybeforeyouscaldthecreamandgoldensyrupandpouritoverthechocolate.Stireverythingtogetherwithawoodenspoonuntilalmostmelted,thenaddthebutter.Stiragainuntiltheganacheissmooth.

9Whetheryoumakeitinamachineorbyhand,usearubberspatulatoscrapetheganacheintoabowlandcoverwithclingfilm.Setasideuntilithassettotheconsistencyyouwant,thenuseittoicethecake:ifyouwantathinlayertospreadoverthecakes,itcanbepouredoverwhileliquidsothatyougetaneven,lightandshinycoating.Forathickerganachewithaspreadingconsistency,leaveitforabout2hoursatroomtemperaturebeforeusingaspatulaorknifetoicethecakes.Spoonaboutonetablespoonovereachcake:youwantittocoverthecutwiththecreamoozingout.Decoratewithchocolateshavingsandserve.

Weliketomaketheseineightmini-loaftins,9.5x6.5cmatthetopand7x4cmatthebottom.Ifyouusetheseyou’llneedapipingbagtoinserttheBaileyscream.Alternatively,youcouldusean18cmroundspringformtin.Ifyoudothis,justlinetheroundtinregularly(ratherthanallowinga2cmoverhang).You’llalsoneedtoincreasethebakingtimeto40minutes.Whenthecakeiscool,sliceitinhalfhorizontally,spreadtheBaileyscreamoverthebottomlayerandsandwichbacktogether.

Theganachecanbestoredatroomtemperature,providingit’snottoowarm,for3days,orkeptinthefridgeforupto2weeks.Withoutthecreamfilling,thecakeswillkeepforupto3daysinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature.

Oncethecakeshavebeenassembled,theymustbekeptinthefridgeandeatenwithinaday.

ChocolateGuinnesscakeswithBaileysIrishCream

Cakes

There’ssomethingalittlebitmagicandabigbitsatisfyingaboutbakingacake.Startingwithjustafewbasicbuildingblocks–flour,eggs,butter,sugar,araisingagent–thenumberofdirectionsyoucantakefromthereisinspiring.

You’llfindcakesforalloccasionshere:easyloafcakesforeverydaybaking,andcakesyou’llsaveforspecialoccasions;booze-filledcakestoservetoadultsaftersupper,andpink-icedcakestomakeyourkid’sday.Wehavecakesyou’llneedtoeatonthedayofmaking,andothersthatwillbehappytostickaroundfortheweek.Wehaveroundcakes,loafcakes,bundtcakes,rolledcakes,longcakes,tallcakes,lightcakes,densecakes,cakeswhichareall(secretly)abouttheicing,andcakeswhichstandalone.Andwehavecakesfreefromgluten,andcakeswhich–thoughnotfreefromsugar–arepackedwithlotsofnaturallysweetingredientslikerootvegetablesandtropicalfruit.

That’saquickoutlineofthemainroutesweheaddown.Here,inmoredetail,aresomeoftheattractionsyou’llpassontheway.

CAKESFOREVERYDAYBAKING,CAKESFORSPECIALOCCASIONS›SimpleloafcakessuchasourLemonandPoppySeedCake(seehere)andTessa’sSpiceCake(seehere)

areperfectforeverydaybaking.Eminentlysliceableandinnoneedofelaborateicing,thesearecakeswhichcansitaroundforagoodfewdays,readytoeatalongsideacupoftea.Cakespackedwithrootvegetables–theBeetroot,GingerandSouredCreamCake(seehere)andtheParsnipandPecanCakewithAniseedandOrange(seehere),forexample–haveasimilarlylongshelflife.Again,they’reperfectforeverydaybakingfortheweekahead.

Somecakes,ontheotherhand,aretobesavedforaspecialoccasion.Layeredcakessuchasthe(aptlynamed)CelebrationCake(seehere),theLouiseCakewithPlumandCoconut(seehere),thePineappleandStarAniseChiffonCake(seehere)andthePistachioandRoseWaterSemolinaCake(seehere)areall,intheirownway,laboursoflove.Thisisperfectlyapt,though,aswhywouldyouwanttomakeacakeforsomeoneyoudon’tadore?

CAKESFORTEATIME,CAKESFORDESSERT(ANDCAKESFORBREAKFAST)›Ofcourse,itisalwayspossibletosimplifythespecial,ortomakethesimplespecial–wecanallscrubupfortheoccasionwhenwewantto!AsimpleTake-homeChocolateCake(seehere),forexample,canbeturnedintoanimpressivedessertwhenservedwithaspoonfulofespressocinnamonmascarponecream;andaCoconut,AlmondandBlueberryCake(seehere),intendedforteatime,canbeconvertedintodessertwhenservedwarmwithadrizzleofcream.

Theoppositeisalsotrue.AshowstoppersuchasthePineappleandStarAniseChiffonCake(seehere),adornedwithpineappleflowersyou’vemadeyourself,willstillgodownverywellwhenservedunadorned;andthePistachioandRoseWaterSemolinaCake(seehere)willstillbeatreatwithoutthecrystallizedpetals.Whilestrewingacakewithhand-crystallizedflowersmightbeasclosetoadeclarationofloveasit’spossibleforacaketoget,nooneisgoingtothinkyoulovethemanylesswithouttheflowers.

Wehadlotsoffunworkingoutwhethercakesmadeforteatimecouldworkjustaswellaftersupper,orwhethercakesmadeforweddingscouldalsoworkonawetweekend.Intheprocess,westumbledacrossthefactthattheRhubarbandStrawberryCrumbleCake(seehere)–conventionallyservedafterameal–alsotastesuncommonlygoodeatenforbreakfast,alongwithsomethickGreekyoghurt.

CAKESFORBIGKIDS,CAKESFORSMALLKIDS›Thepairingofboozeandfruitisonesowinningthatwefindithardtoresist.PrunesandArmagnac,grappaand

grapes,rumandraisins,wineandplums:soakingdriedfruitorcookingfreshfruitwithalcoholbringsadepthofflavouranddegreeofmoisturetoacakethatweabsolutelylove.CakessuchastheGrappaFruitCake(seehere)ortheRumandRaisinCakewithRumCaramelIcing(seehere)mightnotbetheonestofocusonwhenyou’rebakingforyourchild’sparty.Andcakeswithlotsofcoffeeordistinctspicessuchasaniseorgroundcardamom–theCoffeeandCardamomPoundCake(seehere),forexample–mightalsonotbethestuffofsix-year-olddreams.Butforthosetowhomcakeismorethanjustavehicleforicingandcandles,thesearecakestogetseriouslyexcitedabout.

Betweenpink-icing-kiddie-heavenandbooze-soaked-adult-heaven,therearemanycakestopleaseall.Belinda’sFlourlessCoconutandChocolateCake(seehere)isparticularlypopularwithallthefamily,asaretheLouiseCakewithPlumandCoconut(seehere)andtheRhubarbandStrawberryCrumbleCake(seehere).

KitWe’vetriednottogotoobonkerswiththenumberoftinsweuse,butthisalsohadtobebalancedagainsttheamountoffunthereistobehadbybakingcakesinallshapesandsizes:round,square,loaf,bundt,chiffon,rolledintotheshapeofabarrel...Thedaythatcakesarenolongerfuntomake,lookatandeatwould,wethink,beasaddayindeed.

Eachrecipewillspecifytherecommendedstyleofcaketin,andwehave,wherewecan,suggestedalternativeswhenaspecialisttiniscalledfor.Bundttinscanbesubstitutedwithroundcaketins,forexample,orroundtinsusedinsteadofsquare.Insomecases,however,thespecificcaketinisreallyimportant.TheVineyardCake(seehere)andthePineappleandStarAniseChiffonCake(seehere),forexample,mustbemadeinachiffoncaketin(alsoknownasanangelfoodcaketin);theshapeanddesignofthetinisnotjustforfunhere:itaffectsthewaythecakesarebakedandcooledandthecakesdon’treallyworkwithoutit.Thesameistrueofspringformtins.Theseareoftencalledforwhenacakeneedstoberemovedfromatinwithoutinvertingit.Lotsofourcakeshavelovelythingsontopofthem,andturningthemoutontoaracktocool(asyou’dhavetodoifatinwasnotspringform)wouldmeanthatallthiscrumbleandtoppingwouldgetlost.

RecipeListRumandraisincakewithrumcaramelicingPrunecakewithArmagnacandwalnuts

ParsnipandpecancakewithaniseedandorangeBeetroot,gingerandsouredcreamcakeAppleandoliveoilcakewithmapleicing

Vineyardcake(akaCleopatracake)Butternut,honeyandalmondPineapple,pecanandcurrantBanana,dateandwalnut

GrappafruitcakeLemonandblackcurrantstripecakeRhubarbandstrawberrycrumblecakeCoconut,almondandblueberrycake

Take-homechocolatecakeApricotandalmondcakewithcinnamontopping

PistachiorouladewithraspberriesandwhitechocolateTropicalfruitcake

PistachioandrosewatersemolinacakeFestivefruitcake

Flourlesschocolatelayercakewithcoffee,walnutsandrosewaterLouisecakewithplumandcoconut

AlmondbuttercakewithcardamomandbakedplumsPineappleandstaranisechiffoncakeCoffeeandcardamompoundcake

Neapolitanpoundcake(forthefamily)Tessa’sspicecake

Lemonandpoppyseedcake(NationalTrustversion)Belinda’sflourlesscoconutandchocolatecake

Celebrationcake

Rumandraisincakewithrumcaramelicing

GoingtotheicecreamparlourissomethingofatraditionforHelenandhereldestson,Sam.Theyeithershareatallsundaeorgotheirseparatewaysdownthecuporconeroute.Sam’schoicevariesfromweektoweek,butHelenalwaysgoesforasinglescoopofrumandraisin.This,alongwithheraffectionfortherum-soakedretroclassicrumbaba,wastheinspirationbehindthiscake.

SERVES8–10

200graisins120mldarkrum300gplainflour,plusextrafordusting1tspbakingpowder1tspbicarbonateofsoda½tspgroundcinnamon¼tspsalt250gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,plusextraforgreasing250glightbrown

muscovadosugar1tspvanillaextract2largeeggs200gsouredcream

RUMCARAMELICING60gunsaltedbutter80glightbrownmuscovadosugar3tbspmilk1tbspdarkrum100gicingsugar,sifted

1Thedaybeforeyoubakethecake,placetheraisinsandruminalargecontainerorjarforwhichyouhavealid.Giveitagoodshakeandsetasidetomacerate.Wheneveryouwalkpastthecontainerorjar,giveitashake.

2Preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.Greaseandfloura23cmroundbundttin.

3Sifttheflour,bakingpowder,bicarbonateofsoda,cinnamonandsalttogetherintoamediumbowlandsetaside.

4Placethebutter,sugarandvanillaextractinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeeduntilsmoothandlightened.Addtheeggs,oneatime,beatingwellaftereachaddition.Reducethespeedtolowand,withthemachinestillrunning,addtheflourmixalternatelywiththesouredcream,beginningandendingwiththeflourmixtostabilizethemixtureandpreventitfromcurdling.Finally,addthesoakedraisinsandrumandmixonalowspeed,justtocombine.Scrapethemixintothebundttin,smoothingthetop,andbakeforabout50minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.Removethecakefromtheovenandsetasidefor15minutesinthetinbeforeinvertingontoacoolingracktocoolcompletely.

5Maketheicingwhenyouarereadytoserve.Placethebutterinasmallsaucepanandmeltoveralowheat.Addthesugarandcookfor1minute,stirringcontinuously,untilthemixcomestogether.Addthemilk,increasetheheatandbringtoaboil.Removethepanfromtheheat,addtherum,mixwellandsetasidetocometoroomtemperature.Whencool,beatinhalfoftheicingsugarusingawoodenspoon.Onceincorporated,addtheremaininghalfandbeatuntilthickandsmooth.Spreadtherumandcaramelicingoverthetopofthecake,lettingitrunslowlydownthesides.

Wemakethisina23cmbundttin;ifyoudon’thavethebundttin,youcanusea23cmroundspringformtin:itwon’tlookquiteaspretty,butwillstillworkwell.

Theraisinsneedtobepreparedthedaybeforeyoustartbaking,sothattheyareniceandplumpfromsoakingupallthebooze.

Icedorun-iced,thiscakewillkeepfor2–3daysinanairtightcontainer.

RumandraisincakewithRumcaramelicing

PrunecakewithArmagnacandwalnutsSERVES12

250gpittedprunes,quartered100mlArmagnac(orbrandy)finelygratedzestof1orange(1½tsp)300gplainflour,plusextrafordusting1tspbakingpowder1tspbicarbonateofsoda½tspsalt200gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,plusextraforgreasing200gcastersugar1tspvanillaextract2largeeggs230gcrèmefraîche,removedfromthefridge30minutesbeforeneededicingsugar,for

dusting

CRUMBLE(THEBRACKETEDWEIGHTSAREFORTHE23CMROUNDCAKETIN;THESALTREMAINSTHESAMEINBOTH)40gsoftlightbrownsugar(or60g)2tspgroundcinnamon(or1tbsp)40gwalnuthalves(or60g),roughlychoppedinto0.5cmpieces1/8tspsalt

1PlacetheprunesinabowlwiththeArmagnac(orbrandy)andorangezest.Coverthebowlwithclingfilmandleaveatroomtemperatureovernighttosoak,stirringafewtimes.

2Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Greaseandfloura23cmbundtor23cmroundspringformtinandsetaside.

3Tomakethecrumble,combineallthecrumbleingredientsinasmallbowlandsetaside.

4Sifttheflour,bakingpowder,bicarbonateofsodaandsalttogetherintoabowlandsetaside.

5Placethebutterandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeeduntillightandfluffy.Addthe

vanillaandeggs,oneatatime,beatingwellaftereachadditionandscrapingdownthesidesofthebowltoensureevenmixing.Reducethespeedtolowandaddtheflourmixalternatelywiththecrèmefraîche,beginningandendingwiththeflourmixtostabilizethemixtureandpreventitfromcurdling.Removethebowlfromthemachineand,usingarubberspatula,foldinthesoakedprunesalongwiththeirsyrupyalcohol.

6Spoonhalfofthecakebatterintothetinandsprinkleoverthenutcrumble.Followthiswiththeremainingbatterandbakefor50–55minutes,or60–65minutesfortheroundspringformtin,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandallowtorestfor10minutesinthetin.Ifusingabundttin,invertitontoacakeplate,orsimplyliftitoutofthespringformtinontoaplate.Dustwithicingsugar,ifservingwarm,orsetasidetocometoroomtemperaturebeforedustingandserving.

Thislooksbestmadeina23cmbundttin,buta23cmroundspringformtinalsoworkswell.Ifyoumakeitintheroundtin,you’llneedalittlemorecrumblethanforthebundttin;we’velistedbothsetsofquantitiesbelow.

Theprunesneedtobepreparedthedaybeforeyoustartbaking,toallowthemtimetosoak.Thecrumblecanbemadeupto3daysinadvanceandstoredinanairtightcontainer.

Thisisatitsabsolutebesteatenwarm,freshfromtheovenoronthedayofmaking.Don’tworryifyoucan’teatitall,though:itwillkeepwellforupto3daysinanairtightcontainer.You’lljustneedtowarmitthroughfor5minutes(wrappedlooselyinfoil)inanovensetto180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4beforeserving.

PrunecakewithArmagnacandwalnuts

ParsnipandpecancakewithaniseedandorangeYotamhasalwaysbeenscepticalaboutcakesmadewithrootvegetables.Therehavebeenanumberofattemptsovertheyearstolurehimovertothebeetroot,parsnipandcarrotside,butitwasn’tuntilthiscakethattheconversionprocessbeganandhestartedtoseewhatthenaturally-sweet-inherently-moistfusswasallabout.

Thiscakeisthehappyoutcomeofadisagreementoverwhatconstitutestheperfectcarrotcake.Yotamthinksacarrotcakeshouldbe‘lightandfluffy’,Helenthinksitshouldbe‘denseandfruity’.Neverthetwainshouldmeetonthisall-importantofmatters,soHelentookthediplomaticrouteoflettingthecarrotsbeandworkingonaparsnipcakeinstead.Weareboth,thankfully,agreedonthesuitabilityofthe‘denseandfruity’result.

Itmakessensethatparsnipsworksowellhere,asthey’refromthesamefamilyascarrots:theumbelliferae.Parsnipsareattheirsweetestandjuiciestinthewintermonths–whenthestarchhasconvertedtosugar–sothiscakeisbestmadethen.

SERVES8–10

150gpecanhalves3largeparsnips,peeledandcoarselygrated,avoidingthecoreifoldandwoody(450g)100g

currantsfinelygratedzestof1largeorange(1tbsp)3largeeggs225gcastersugar280mlsunfloweroil,plusextraforgreasing190gplainflour1tspgroundcinnamon1½tspbakingpowder1½tspbicarbonateofsoda1tspgroundnutmeg1tspgroundaniseed(or1tspfinelygroundfennelseeds)¾tspsalt

ICING300gcreamcheese,atroomtemperature150gicingsugar,sifted125mldoublecream1½tspgroundaniseedfinelygratedzestof1smallorange(1tsp)

1Preheattheovento170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.Greaseandlinea23cmroundcaketinwithbakingparchment.

2Spreadthepecansoutonabakingtrayandroastfor10minutes.Removefromtheovenand,whencoolenoughtohandle,roughlychopandplaceinalargebowl.Setasideuntilcompletelycoolbeforeaddingtheparsnips,currantsandorangezest.

3Increasetheoventemperatureto210°C/190°CFan/GasMark6.

4Placetheeggsandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Beatonahighspeedforabout2minutes,untilthickandcreamy.Withthemachinestillrunning,slowlyandsteadilypourintheoiluntilitisallcombined.Sifttheflour,cinnamon,bakingpowder,bicarbonateofsoda,nutmeg,aniseedandsalttogetherintoabowl,thenaddthesetothemixer.Mixtocombine,thenturnoffthemachinebeforefoldinginthenuts,parsnips,currantsandzest.

5Pourintothetinandbakeforabout60minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentrecomesoutclean.Keepacloseeyeonitafter55minutesorso,asthecakecangofrombeingstillwetinthecentretofullycookedwithinjustafewminutes:youmightneedtocoverthetinwithaluminiumfoilforthelast5or10minutesifitistakingontoomuchcolour.Removefromtheovenandsetasideuntilcompletelycoolbeforeremovingthecakefromthetin.

6Tomaketheicing,placethecreamcheeseinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Mixonahighspeedfor1minuteuntilsmooth,thenaddtheicingsugartothemixeralongwiththecream.Continuetomixfor1–2minutes,untilthick,beforeaddingtheaniseedandorangezest.Mixuntiljustcombined,thentransfertothefridgeuntilreadytouse(upto2days).Onthedayofserving,useapaletteknifetospreadtheicingoverthetopofthe

cake,gentlyswirlingitasyougo.

Theicingcanbemadeupto2daysaheadandstoredinthefridge.Youwilljustneedtoquicklywhipitagainbeforeusing.

Un-iced,thecakekeepswellforupto3daysinanairtightcontainerorwrappedinaluminiumfoil.Onceiced,thecakeneedstobeeatenonthesameday.

Beetroot,gingerandsouredcreamcakeEsme,Yotam’stestkitchencolleague,wassoconvincedbythisparticularcakethatshedecidedtotripletherecipeandslipitinasthemiddletiertoherweddingcake(chocolateonthebottomtier,forthoseinterested,traditionalfruitcakeuptop).

TheadditionofthevitaminCtablethelpspreserveand‘set’thecolourofthebeetrootinthecake.It’ssomethingYotamdoestopreservethecolourofquinceinhissavourycookingandthesamemethodworksverywellhere.Asyouslicethecakeopen,thestreaksofmagenta-colouredbeetrootwillmakeyousmile.

SERVES6–8

75gwalnuthalves200gplainflour150gcastersugar2tspbakingpowder¼tspbicarbonateofsoda¼tspsalt2mediumrawredbeetroot,peeledandcoarselygrated(250g)finelygratedzestof1largeorange(1tbsp)100gstemginger,finelychopped2largeeggs60gsouredcream125mlsunfloweroil1largevitaminCtablet(1500mg),crushedwithapestleandmortarorthebackofaspoonto

formafinepowder(optional)ICING150gcreamcheese,atroomtemperature60gicingsugar,sifted70mldoublecream6cmpieceoffreshginger,gratedintoafine-meshsieveplacedoverabowl,andtheflesh

squeezedtoextractallthejuices(about20ml)

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Greaseandlinea20cmroundcaketinandsetaside.

2Spreadthewalnutsoutonabakingtrayandroastfor10minutes.Removefromtheovenandchopinto1cmpieces,thensetaside.Increasetheoventemperatureto195°C/175°CFan/GasMark5.

3Placetheflour,sugar,bakingpowder,bicarbonateofsodaandsaltinalargemixingbowlandwhisktocombineandaerate.Addthebeetroot,orangezest,walnutsandstemginger,butdonotstir.

4Placetheeggsandsouredcreaminanothersmallbowlandwhisktocombine.Addtheoilandcrushedvitamintablet,ifusing,andwhiskagain.Pouroverthebeetrootandflourmixand,usingyourhandsoralargespatula,mixthoroughlytocombine.

5Pourthemixintothecaketinandbakeinthemiddleoftheovenfor50–55minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandsetasidefor30minutesbeforeremovingfromthetinandsettingasideonawirerackuntilcompletelycool.Thebakingparchmentcanbeleftonorremovedasyoulike:theadvantageofleavingitonisthatthesideswillnotdryoutifyouarenoteatingitstraightaway.

6Tomaketheicing,placethecreamcheeseinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplaceandbeatforabout10seconds,untilsmooth(theamountoftimeittakestobecomesmoothwillvary,dependingontheconsistencyofyourcreamcheese–seehere).Addtheicingsugarandbeatuntilwellincorporated.Addthecreamandbeatforabout1minute,untiltheicingisthickandsmooth.Addthegingerjuice,beatforafinalfewseconds,thenuseapaletteknifetospreadoverthetopofthecake,andserve.

Useamicroplanetogratetheginger,ifpossible;gratingthegingersofinelywillreallyhelpwhentryingtoextractthejuice.

Un-iced,thecakewillkeepfor3daysatroomtemperatureinanairtightcontainer.Onceiced,thecakeisbesteatenonthesamedayandanyleftoverskeptinthefridgeforacoupleofdays.Asalways,bringitbacktoroomtemperaturebeforeeating.

Beetroot,gingerandsouredcreamcake

Appleandoliveoilcakewithmapleicing

ThisissuchapopularstapleontheOttolenghicakecounterthatwe’veallowedittomakeaguestappearancefromthepagesofthefirstOttolenghi:TheCookbook.Aswithallgoodrevivaltours,it’sbiggerandbetterthanever,secondtimearound.

Ifyouwanttodowithoutthemapleicing,youcan:adustingoficingsugaralsoworkswell.Bearinmind,though,thatthosecustomerswhoreturnagainandagaintothesameappleandoliveoilcakeconfessthat,secretly,theicingisthereasontheyorderitinthefirstplace.

SERVES10

100gsultanas275mlwater350gplainflour½tspgroundcinnamon1½tspbicarbonateofsoda1½tspbakingpowder½tspsalt3largeBramleyapples(800g)(useGrannySmiths,asanalternative)200gcastersugar150mlextravirginoliveoil2largeeggs,lightlybeaten,plus2extraeggwhitesscrapedseedsof½vanillapodfinelygratedzestof1lemon(1tsp)

MAPLEICING100gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,plusextraforgreasing100gsoftlightbrown

sugar85gmaplesyrup220gcreamcheese

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Greaseandlinethebaseandsidesofa23cmroundcaketinwithbakingparchment.Thepapershouldrise2–

3cmabovethesidesofthetin.Setaside.

2Placethesultanasand200mlofwaterinamediumsaucepan.Simmeroveralowheatuntilallthewaterhasbeenabsorbed,thensetaside.

3Sifttheflour,cinnamon,bicarbonateofsoda,bakingpowderandsalttogetherintoabowlandsetaside.Peelandcoretheapples,thencutinto2–3cmdiceandsetasideinaseparatebowl.

4Placethesugar,oliveoil,wholeeggs,vanillaseedsandlemonzestinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamediumspeedforabout6–7minutes,untilthemixislightincolour,doubledinsizeandhasthickenedalittle.Don’tbetemptedtoincreasethespeedofthemachinewhenmixing:thiswillcreateairbubbles,whichyoudon’twant.Removethebowlfromthemachineandusealargespatulatofoldintheapples,sultanasandtheremaining75mlofwater.Addthesifteddryingredientsandgentlyfoldtocombine.

5Placetheeggwhitesinaseparatecleanbowlandwhisktoformsoftpeaks:there’sonlyasmallamountofeggwhiteheresoyoumightneedtodothisbyhand.Gentlybutthoroughlyfoldtheeggwhitesintothecakemix,thenscrapethebatterintothetin.Levelthetopwithaspatulaandbakefor55minutes(slightlylongerifyouareusingGrannySmiths,astheydon’tlosetheirshapeasquicklyasBramleys),oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolinthetin.

6Maketheicingwhilethecakeiscooling.Placethebutter,sugarandmaplesyrupinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatuntillightandairy,thenaddthecreamcheese,aquarteratatime.Continuetobeatforabout2minutes,untilsmoothandthick.

7Whenthecakeiscompletelycool,usealargeserratedknifetocutitinhalfhorizontally.Spreadhalftheicingoverthebottomlayerofthecake,thenplacetheotherlayerbackontop.Spoontheremainingicingontop–leavethesidesun-icedsothattheicinginthemiddlecanbeseen–andserve.

Theoliveoilgivesthecakeadepthofflavourandmoistureandalsomeansthatitlastsalongtime(the

flavouractuallyimprovesafteradayortwo).Wrappedinclingfilm,thecakewillkeepinthefridge(un-iced)foruptoaweek.Bringitbacktoroomtemperatureandiceitonthedayofserving.

Vineyardcake(akaCleopatracake)

ThiscakeoriginallycamefromYotam’sfriendKitWilliams(whoherselffounditinGourmetmagazine)duringhertimeatBaker&Spice.WethenadapteditforValentine’sdayandcalledit‘Cleopatracake’,onaccountofthelargebunchofgrapesneededfortherecipe!

Thelistofingredientsmayseemunlikelyinacake–theoliveoil,thesweetfortifiedwine–butdogiveitatry.It’snoteverycakethatgetsawholebottleofwinepouredintoit,andtheresult–withitsintensityofflavour–isreallyratherspecial.

SERVES12

500gplainflour,plusextrafordusting2tspbakingpowder½tspbicarbonateofsoda¾tspsalt340gcastersugar175gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,plusextraforgreasing75mlextravirginoliveoilfinelygratedzestof2lemons(2tsp)finelygratedzestof1mediumorange(2tsp)scrapedseedsof½vanillapod4largeeggs450mlCarteOrMuscatdeBeaumesdeVenisewine,atroomtemperature100gseedlessred

grapes,washedandhalvedlengthways

TOPPING70gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature70gcastersugar100gseedlessredgrapes,washedandhalvedlengthways

1Preheattheovento210°C/190°CFan/GasMark6.Greaseandlightlyfloura25cmround,10cmdeepangelfoodcakeorchiffontin,tappingawayanyexcessflour.

2Sifttheflour,bakingpowder,bicarbonateofsodaandsalttogetherintoabowlandsetaside.

3Placethesugarinthebowlofanelectricfoodmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Addthebutter,oliveoil,lemonzest,orangezestandvanillaseedsandmixfor2minutes,onamedium-highspeed,untilsmoothandfluffy.Addtheeggs,oneatatime,beatingwellaftereachaddition.Reducethespeedtolowandaddathirdoftheflourmix,followedbyhalfofthewine.Repeatwiththeremainingflourandwine,finishingwiththefinalthirdofflourandcontinuingtomixonalowspeed.Oncecombined,pourintothepreparedcaketinandscatter100ggrapesevenlyontop.Placeintheovenandbakefor20minutes.

4Makethesugarcrusttoppingwhilethecakeisintheoven.Placethebutterandsugarinasmallbowlandbeatwithawoodenspoontoformathickpaste.Whenthecakehasbeenintheovenfor20minutes,quicklybutgentlyremoveitanddotthesugarcrustevenlyoverthetop,breakingitintosmallpiecesasyougo.Scatter100ggrapesevenlyoverthetopandreturnittotheoven.Immediatelylowertheoventemperatureto180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4andcontinuetobakeforanother35–40minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolfor30minutesbeforeremovingfromthetin.Thecakecaneitherbeservedstraightawayorstoredinanairtightcontainer.

Thiscakecanonlybemadeinanangelfoodcakeorchiffontin.Thecakeissolargethatit’sonlythiskindoftin–withtheholebuiltintothemiddle–thatwillenableanevenbake.Bundttinswillnotworkbecauseyouwantthesugarcrustandgrapestoremainontopwhenthecakeisserved,whichwouldnotbepossibleasthebundttinisinverted.

Thecakewillkeepforupto5daysinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature.

Vineyardcake(akaCleopatracake)

TincancakepartIButternut,honeyandalmond

Part-bread,part-cake,thistinloafisthefirstofwhatwethinkofasourboyscoutorgirlguidetrilogy:wewerenotinthewoodswhentheywerebakedandthefirewasnothomemade,weknow,butthere’ssomethingtimelessandwholesomeaboutloavesbakedinaregulartincan.Theendresultkeeps(andfreezes)well,so,homemadefireornot,youcanatleasttakeitwithyoutosustainyouonalongwalkinthewoods.

Traditionally,thesearemadeincylindricallogtinswhichareabout8cmwideand17cmhigh.Theyusedtobemorewidelyavailablethantheyarethesedays.YouoccasionallyseethemoneBay,butthey’regenerallyconsiderednovelanddifficulttocomeby.Ouralternative–regular400gtincans–worksverywell.Bakinginatingivestheloavessuchagreatshape–sowonderfullysliceable,intothickroundstoshareout,likeallgoodscoutsshould.

Youneedtoopenthetinsbyworkingwiththeopenerperpendiculartothemsothatitcutsasliceoffthetopwithoutleavingalip.Savethecontentsinanothercontainerforfutureuse,thenwashanddrytheemptytins.Tinswitharing-pullwillleavealittlelipwhichwillmakeithardertoslidethecakeoutofthetinwhenit’sbaked.Ifyouonlyhavetinswitharing-pull,that’sfine:justflipthemoverandopenthemfromthebasewithatinopener,asdescribed.Usingatinopenerwillmaketheexposededgesofthetinsharp,sotakealotofcarewhenliningthetinswithbakingparchment.

MAKES2TINLOAVESOR1LARGERLOAF(USINGAREGULAR900GLOAFTIN)

¼ofasmallbutternutsquash,peeledandcutintoroughly4cmpieces(100g)125gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cubed;plusalittleextra,melted,forbrushing;plusextratoserve100gcastersugar

finelygratedzestof1smallorange(1tsp)25grunnyhoney1largeegg,beaten

100graisins50gtoastedflakedalmonds160gself-raisingflour1/8tspsalt60mlfull-fatmilk

1Placethesquashpiecesinasmallsaucepanandcoverwithwater.Bringtoasimmeroveramedium-highheatandcookforabout10minutes,untilsoft.Strain,thenuseaforktomashthesquashtoapurée.

2Preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.

3Nextpreparethetwotincans(seeintro).Tolinethemwithbakingparchment,useabrushtolightlybuttertheinsideofthetwoempty,cleantins.Linetheroundbasebytracingarounditandcuttingoutcirclesofparchmenttofitexactly.Usethelonghandleofawoodenspoontohelpyougetthecirclesofparchmentintoplace:thissoundstrickierthanitis–you’lljustneedtotakecarenottocutyourselfontheopenedendsofthetins.Tolinetheinsidesofthetins,measurethecircumferenceandheightofthetinandthencutapieceofbakingparchmentpaperabout5cmtallerthanthetin;aslightoverlapofthepaperisfine.

4Placethebutter,sugar,orangezestandhoneyinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Mixforabout3minutes,untillightandcreamy,thenslowlyaddthebeatenegg,stoppingtoscrapedownthesidesofthebowlhalfwaythrough.Themixturemaylookslightlycurdledatthisstage,butdon’tworry.Addthecooledbutternutpurée,raisinsandalmondsandmixonalowspeed,tocombine.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoabowl,thenaddthisinbatchestothebutternutmix,alternatingwiththemilk.Mixonalowspeeduntiljustcombined,takingcarenottoover-mix.

5Dollopthismixtureintothetinssothatitrisesallthewaytothetopofthetin,notthepaper:you’llneedtodothisbythespoonful,asthebatterisquitethickandthetinsarenarrow.Placethefilledtincansonabakingtray,sittingupright,andbakeforabout45–50minutes(whetherbakinginthetincansorinalargerloaftin),oruntila(long)skewerinsertedintothecentrecomesoutdryandclean.

6Removethebakingtrayfromtheovenandsettheloavesasidefor15minutestocoolintheirtinsbeforeslidingthemout.Thisiseasilydonebytippingthetinsontheirsides(useateatoweltoholdthem,astheywillstillbequitehot)andgentlytuggingattheoverhangingparchmentpaper.Theloafshouldslideoutwiththeparchmentpaperaroundit.Setasideuntilcompletelycoolbeforeusingaserratedknifetocutthemintothickslices.Theyaregreatjustastheyare,ortoasted–eitherway,spreadthemliberallywithbutterbeforeserving.

You’llneedanextra-longskewer(bamboosataysticksareperfect,ifyouhavethem)forinsertingintothecentreofthetinloavestochecktheyareready.Wemakethesecakesin400gtincans,butyoucanalsomakeonelargerloafifyouprefer.Usea900gloaftin.Justmakesuretheparchmentliningrisesabout5cmabovetherimofthetin,sothatyouhavesomeleveragewithwhichtoliftitout.

Thebutternutsquashcanbecookedupto2daysinadvanceandstoredinthefridge.Cutopenandclean2tincansinpreparation(seeabove).

Oncemade,theloaveswillkeepforupto3days,wrappedinclingfilm,orfrozenforupto2months.

TincancakepartIIPineapple,pecanandcurrantThepineappleringsshouldbeintheirownjuiceforthis(ratherthansyrup).Ifyoucanfindit,startwithcrushedcannedpineapplesoyouwon’tneedtoblitzuptherings.

MAKES3TINLOAVESOR1LARGERLOAF(USINGAREGULAR900GLOAFTIN)

80gpecanhalves1x432gtinpineapplerings,injuice(notsyrup)125gunsaltedbutter,cubed;plusalittleextra,melted,forbrushing;plusextratoserve150g

demerarasugar80gcurrants2largeeggs,beaten320gself-raisingflour¼tspsalt¼tspgroundcloves

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

2Spreadthepecansoutonasmallbakingtrayandroastfor8minutes.Removefromtheovenand,oncecoolenoughtohandle,choproughlyandsetaside.Increasetheoventemperatureto190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.

3Drainthejuicefromthepineappletin–youshouldhaveabout150ml–andplaceinamediumsaucepan.Cuteachpineapplesliceintofourandplaceinafoodprocessor.Usethepulsebuttonsothatitischoppedintofinepieces:youwantittohavetheconsistencyofcrushedpineappleratherthanturningitintoapurée.Transfertothesaucepanwiththejuices,alongwiththebutterandsugar.Placeoveramedium-lowheatuntilthebutterandsugarhavemelted,thenincreasetheheattomedium-high.Bringtotheboilandsimmerfor4minutes.Removefromtheheat,stirthroughthecurrantsandsetasideforthemixturetocooltoroomtemperature.

4Meanwhile,carefullylinethreetincanswithbakingparchment(seehere).

5Whenthemixtureisatroomtemperature,addthebeateneggsandstirtocombine.Sifttheflour,saltandgroundclovestogetherintoabowl,thenfoldthisintothepineapplemixturealongwiththechoppedroastedpecans.Folduntiljustcombined,takingcarenottoover-workthemixture.

6Dollopthecakemixintothepreparedtinstoaboutthree-quartersofthewayupthesides:you’llneedtodothisbythespoonful,asthebatterisquitethickandthetinsarenarrow.Placethefilledtincansonabakingtray,sittingupright,andbakeforabout50minutes(whetherbakinginthetincansorinalargerloaftin),oruntila(long)skewerinsertedintothecentrecomesoutdryandclean.

7Removethebakingtrayfromtheovenandsettheloavesasidefor15minutestocoolintheirtinsbeforeslidingthemout.Thisiseasilydonebytippingthetinsontheirsides(useateatoweltoholdthemastheywillstillbequitehot)andgentlytuggingattheoverhangingparchmentpaper.Theloafshouldslideoutwiththeparchmentpaperaroundit.Servewarmorcold,slicedwithaserratedknifeintothickslicesandspreadliberallywithbutter.

Wemakethesecakesin400gtincans,butyoucanalsomakeonelargerloafifyouprefer.Usea900gloaftin.Justmakesuretheparchmentliningrisesabout5cmabovetherimofthetin,sothatyouhavesomeleveragewithwhichtoliftitout.Thebattershouldrisethree-quartersofthewayupthetin.

Cutopenandclean3tincansinpreparation(seehere).

Oncemade,theloaveswillkeepinanairtightcontainerforupto3days,orwrappedinclingfilmandfrozenforupto2months.Theydodryupabitovertime,soifyouareeatingthemafterthefirstdayorso,they’rebesttoasted.

TincancakepartIIIBanana,dateandwalnutMAKES3TINLOAVESOR1LARGERLOAF(USINGAREGULAR900GLOAFTIN)

60gwalnuthalves200gMedjooldates,pittedandroughlychoppedinto2cmpieces200gsoftlightbrownsugar60gunsaltedbutter,cubed;plusalittleextra,melted,forbrushing;plusextratoserve180ml

water½tspbicarbonateofsoda1largeegg,lightlybeaten1mediumbanana,peeledandmashed(100g)½tspvanillaextract200gself-raisingflour¼tspsalt

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

2Spreadthewalnutsoutonabakingtrayandroastfor5minutes.Removefromtheovenand,oncecoolenoughtohandle,choproughlyandsetaside.Increasetheoventemperatureto190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.

3Placethedates,sugar,butterandwaterinamediumsaucepanandheatgently,stirringfromtimetotime,untilthesugarhasdissolvedandthebutterhasmelted.Increasetheheat,bringthemixturetotheboil,thenremovefromtheheatstraightaway.Transferthemixturetoalargebowlandsetasidetocooltoroomtemperature.

4Meanwhile,carefullylinethreetincanswithbakingparchment(seehere).

5Addthebicarbonateofsoda,egg,bananaandvanillatothedatemixtureandbeatwithawoodenspoontocombine.Addthewalnuts,thensifttheflourandsalttogetherintothemix.Stirtocombinethoroughlybutdonotover-mix.

6Dollopthecakemixintothepreparedtinstoabouttwo-thirdsofthewayupthesides:you’llneedtodothisbythespoonful,asthebatterisquitethickandthetinsarenarrow.Placethefilledtincansonabakingtray,sittingupright,andbakeforabout35minutes,or40minutesifmakingonelargeloaf,oruntila(long)skewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakescomesoutclean.

7Removethebakingtrayfromtheovenandsettheloavesasidefor15minutestocoolintheirtinsbeforeslidingthemout.Thisiseasilydonebytippingthetinsontheirsides(useateatoweltoholdthemastheywillstillbequitehot)andgentlytuggingattheoverhangingparchmentpaper.Theloafshouldslideoutwiththeparchmentpaperaroundit.Servewarmorcold,slicedwithaserratedknifeintothickslicesandspreadliberallywithbutter.

Wemakethesecakesin400gtincans,butyoucanalsomakeonelargerloafifyouprefer.Usea900gloaftin.Justmakesuretheparchmentliningrisesabout5cmabovetherimofthetin,sothatyouhavesomeleveragewithwhichtoliftitout.Thebattershouldrisetwo-thirdsofthewayupthetin.

Cutopenandclean3tincansinpreparation(seehere).

Butternut,honeyandalmond;Pineapple,pecanandcurrant;Banana,dateandwalnut

Grappafruitcake

Thecombinationofthedriedfruit,citrusandvanillainthiscakeisreminiscentoftheItalianpanettone.Thesimilarityendsthere,however,withtheadditionoftheyoghurtandoil,whichdelivermoisture,richnessandacakeytexture.

Usethebestgrappayoucanafford:someofthecheapervarietiestasteabitlikepaintstripper.Ifyoucan’tgetgrappa,thenbrandy,GrandMarnierorCointreauallworkwell.Ifusingthecandiedcitron,vodkaalsoworkswell.

SERVES10

unsaltedbutter,forgreasing50gsultanas50gcurrants30mlgood-qualitygrappa(oroneofthealternativeslistedabove)70geggs(2smalleggs),

lightlybeaten125gcastersugarscrapedseedsof½vanillapod60gGreekyoghurt75mlsunfloweroilfinelygratedzestof1lemon(1tsp)35ggood-qualitymixedpeel(orcandiedcitronororangepeel),plusextratogarnish120g

plainflour,plusextrafordusting½tspbakingpowder1/8tspsalt

ICING120icingsugar,sifted1tbsplemonjuice1½tspgrappa(oroneofthealternativeslistedabove)

1Greaseandflouralargebriocheorsquaretin,orthesmallerindividualtins,andsetaside.Preheattheovento195°C/175°CFan/GasMark5.

2Placethesultanasandcurrantsinasmallbowl,pouroverthegrappaandsetasidefor10minutes.

3Placetheeggs,sugarandvanillaseedsinalargebowlandwhisktocombine.Addtheyoghurtandoilandwhiskagainbeforefoldinginthelemonzest,sultanas,currants,grappaandmixedpeel.

4Sifttheflour,bakingpowderandsaltintothewetmix,stirthroughtocombine,thenspoonintothetin.Itshouldrisethree-quartersofthewayupthesidesifmakingitinonelargertin,orabouttwo-thirdsofthewayupthesidesifmakingitinsmallertins.Bakefor55minutes,orabout16minutesifmakinginsmallertins,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandleavetocoolfor30minutes.

5Tomaketheicing,placetheicingsugar,lemonjuiceandgrappainabowlandwhiskuntilsmooth.

6Transfertheslightlywarmcake(s)fromthemould(s)andontoawirerack.Spreadtheicingoverthetop,lettingittrickledownthesidesandtopwithchoppedcandiedpeel.Servewarm,orsetasidetocoolandstoreinanairtightcontainer.

We’vemadethisinan18cmwidebriochetin,butyoucanalsomakeitina20cmsquaretin,ifyouprefer.AroundEasterwemaketheseinindividualbriochemouldsasanalternativetohotcrossbuns;aregularmuffintinalsoworkswell.

Icedorun-iced,thesekeepwellforupto4daysinanairtightcontainer.Theydobecomedenserovertime,butnotunpleasantlyso–infact,weactuallypreferthemadayortwoaftertheyaremade.Theicingwon’tlookasfreshasitdoesondayone–itbecomesabitwrinkly–buttastesabsolutelyfine.

Grappafruitcake

LemonandblackcurrantstripecakeWehadamomentarywobbleastherecipesforSweetwerecomingtogetherthattherewasnotenoughcolour.Yotamranofftohislocalgrocerstogetasmanybrightberriesashecould,andtheremitoftheweekwas:colour,colour,colour!Thistall,conicalshowstopper-of-a-cakeisoneofthehappyoutcomes.Itstartsitslife,simply,asaflatspongeinabakingtray.Rolledupandcoveredinsilkybuttercream,itlooksratherlikeabarrel.Cutintoit,however–revealingthestripes!–anditlookslikeawholelotofverticallyinclined(andverycolourful)fun.

Seeherefortheimportanceoftimingwhencookingwithsugar:thisisusefultounderstandbeforemakingthebuttercream.

SERVES8–10(IT’SNOTAWIDECAKE–JUST14CM–BUTIT’SHIGH)

8largeeggs,whitesandyolksseparated140gcastersugar,plusanextra20g1tbsplemonjuice(gratethezestbeforejuicing)80gplainflour1/8tspsaltfinelygratedzestof1smalllemon(¾tsp)icingsugar,fordusting

BLACKCURRANT(ORMIXEDBERRY)PURÉE300gblackcurrants(ormixedberries),freshorfrozenanddefrosted,plusanextra40gto

garnish60gcastersugar

BLACKCURRANT(ORMIXEDBERRY)BUTTERCREAM85ggoldensyrup(orcornsyrup)120gcastersugarscrapedseedsof½vanillapod4largeeggyolks300gunsaltedbutter,cutinto3cmcubes,softened100gberrypurée(seeabove)

1Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Lineashallow40x32cmbakingtraywithbakingparchmentandsetaside.

2Placetheeggyolksinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Add140gsugarandthelemonjuiceandbeatonamedium-highspeedforabout3minutes,untilpaleandthick.Transferthemixturetoalargemixingbowlandsifttheflourandsaltdirectlyovertheeggmixtureintwobatches,foldingthroughthemixwitharubberspatulaaftereachaddition.Sprinklethelemonzestontopandsetaside.

3Placetheeggwhitesinacleanbowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Whiskonamedium-highspeeduntilsoftpeaksform,thenslowlydrizzleintheextra20gsugar.Continuetowhiskuntilfirmpeaksform,thengentlyfoldathirdoftheeggwhitesintotheeggyolkmixtureuntilincorporated.Finally,foldintheremainingeggwhitesuntilcombined,thenscrapethemixtureintothebakingtray.Eventhetopoutwithasmallspatulaandbakefor15minutes,oruntilthespongeisalightgoldenbrownandatoothpickinsertedintothecentrecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandplaceonawireracktocoolinthetrayfor5minutesbeforedustingthetoplightlywithicingsugar.Placeacleanteatowelontopofthesponge,thenflipitoversothatthespongeisnowlyingontopoftheteatowel.Carefullypeelawaythepaperandtrimtheveryedgesofthesponge.Becarefulnottocutawaytoomuch:youreallyjustwanttostraightenouttheedges.

4Now,startingattheshorteredgeofthesponge,carefullyrollitup(alongwiththeteatowel).Thisisto‘train’thecake,readyforrollingupagainlater.Afterabout20minutes,orwhenthespongeisnolongerwarm,unrollthesponge.Withtheshortendfacingtowardsyou,measureandcutthreeequalstripsparalleltothelongedge,eachjustunder11cmwide.(Ifyouhaveapizzacutter,thisisareallyeasywaytocutthestrips.)Coverwithacleanteatowelandsetaside.

5Forthepurée,placetheblackcurrantsorberriesandsugarinamediumsaucepanandplaceoveramedium-lowheat.Warmthroughfor4–5minutes,untiltheblackcurrantsorberrieshavesoftenedandthesugarhasdissolved.Transfertoafoodprocessorandblitztoformapurée.Strainthroughafinesievesetoverabowltocatchthepurée:youneed150g,sosaveanyextrainthefridgetospoonoveryoghurt.

6Tomakethebuttercream,placethegoldensyrup,castersugarandvanillaseedsinamediumsaucepan.Placeoveralowheatandstiruntilallthesugardissolves:thisisyoursugarsyrup.

7Inthemeantime,placetheeggyolksinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeeduntilthickandpalelemonincolour.Leavethemachineonwhileyoucheckthesugarsyrup:whenallthesugarhasmelted,stiragain,increasetheheattomediumandsimmeruntilbubblesbegintoappear.Swirlthepangentlyandcontinuetosimmeruntiltherearelargebubblesalloverthesurfaceofthesyrup.Removethepanfromtheheatandcarefullypourthehotsyrupinaslow,steadystreamdowntheedgeofthemixingbowlintothebeatingyolks.Whenallthesyruphasbeenadded,increasethemixerspeedtohighandcontinuetowhiskthemixtureforabout10minutes,untiltheoutsideofthebowlisnolongerwarm.Graduallyaddthebutter,onecubeatatime,allowingittobeincorporatedintothemixbeforeaddingthenext.Whenallthebutterhasbeenadded,scrapedownthebowlandcontinuetowhiskforanotherminute,untilthebuttercreamisverysmoothandlight.Add100gblackcurrant(ormixedberry)puréeandmixonamediumspeeduntilfullyincorporated.

8Toassemblethecake,spreadeachofthestripsofspongewithabout80gblackcurrantbuttercream:thisshouldleaveyouwithabout300gtoicethetopandsidesofthecakelater.Takeonestripofspongeand,startingwiththeshortend,rollitup.Oncethisstripisrolled,positiontheexposedendatthebeginningofthenextstripandkeeprolling.Again,oncethisisrolled–thecylinderwillbegettingwidernow–positiontheexposedendatthebeginningofthelaststripandcontinuetoroll.Younowhavearolledcylindricalcake!(Imagine,foramoment,ifyoulinedupthethreestripsendtoendtocreateoneverylongstrip.Thenimaginerollingthatverylongstripup,fromoneendtotheother.Youshouldendupwithacoiledbarrelshape.)Turnthecylinderontotheservingplatesothatitisstandingononeofitsflatends.

9Spreadtheremainingbuttercreamalloverthetopandsidesofthecake,smoothingwithaspatulatocreateanevensurface.Dribbletheremaining50gofblackcurrant(ormixedberry)puréeontopofthecakeandtopthiswiththeblackcurrantsreservedforgarnish.Setasideforatleast1houratroom

temperature(orinthefridgeifitisaverywarmday)beforeserving.

Thebuttercreamcanbemadeupto3daysinadvanceandstoredinthefridgeorfreezer:justbringitbacktoroomtemperatureandquicklywhipitintheelectricmixertorestoreitsfluffinessbeforespreading.

Althoughthecakeisbesteatenonthedayit’smade,anyleftoverswillbefinethefollowingdayifstoredinthefridge.Asalways,bringitbacktoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

Lemonandblackcurrantstripecake

RhubarbandstrawberrycrumblecakeSERVES12

CRUMBLE120gunsaltedbutter,melted150gsoftlightbrownsugar190gplainflour30gdesiccatedcoconut¼tspsalt

FRUIT250grhubarb(2or3mediumsticks),cutinto1cmslices250gstrawberries,hulledandsliced0.5cmthick25gsoftlightbrownsugar30gtapiocaflour(orcornflour)2tsplemonjuicescrapedseedsof½vanillapod1/8tspsalt

CAKE185gplainflour¾tspbakingpowder¼tspsalt160gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cubed220gicingsugar3largeeggs1tspvanillaextract

1Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Lightlygreaseandlinea23cmsquareorroundspringformtin(orcaketinwitharemovablebase)withbakingparchmentandsetaside.

2Forthecrumblelayer,placealltheingredientsinalargebowlanduseyourhandsorawoodenspoontomix:youneedtoworkthemixturequitealottogetevenlymoist,largecrumbs.Theconsistencywillbedamperandmorepebblythanyoumightbeexpecting,butthisiswhatyouwant.Setaside.

3Forthefruitlayer,placealltheingredientsinamediumbowl,tossgentlytocombineandsetaside.

4Tomakethecake,sifttheflour,bakingpowderandsalttogetherintoabowlandsetaside.Placethebutterandicingsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatforabout3minutesonamedium-highspeed,untillightandfluffy.Addtheeggs,oneatatime,beatingwellaftereachaddition.Addthevanillaextract,followedbythedryingredientsandbeatuntilcombined.Turnthemachineoffassoonaseverythingiscombined,thenpourintothelinedcaketin,usingadropspatulaorthebackofaspoontoevenoutthesurface.Next,spoonoverthefruitmixtureandsprinkleevenlywiththecrumblemixture.

5Transfertotheovenandbakeforabout70minutes,untilthecakeisgoldenbrownontopandaskewerinsertedintothecentrecomesoutwithjustafewmoistcrumbsattached.Havealookatthecake15or20minutesbeforetheendofcooking:ifitlookslikeitisgettingtoodarkontop,coverthetinwithaluminiumfoilfortheremainderofthecooking,topreventittakingonanymorecolour.Setthecakeasideuntilcompletelycoolbeforeremovingfromthetinandtransferringtoacakeplattertoserve.

Wemakethisina23cmroundtin,butusea23cmsquaretinifthatiswhatyouhave.Eitherway,justmakesureitisspringformoratinwitharemovablebase.

Onceassembled,thecakewillkeepfor2days,wrappedinclingfilmorstoredinanairtightcontainer.Thefruitsmaydiscolouralittle,butthiswon’taffectthetaste.

Rhubarbandstrawberrycrumblecake

Coconut,almondandblueberrycakeTaketheword‘cake’outofthetitlehereandthisprettymuchreadslikealistofsuperfoods.Allfoodissupertous,though,particularlywhenthewordcakeisadded!ThecakeisavariationofBelinda’sFlourlessCoconutandChocolateCake(seehere),withtheadditionofsomeflourtooffsetthejuicinessoftheblueberries.It’ssupersimpleandwonderfullymoist.It’salsoversatile,ashappytobeservedwarmfordessert,withsomedoublecreampouredover,asitisatroomtemperaturewhenit’stimefortea.

SERVES10–12

180ggroundalmonds60gdesiccatedcoconut250gcastersugar70gself-raisingflour¼tspsalt4largeeggs200gunsaltedbutter,melted,thensetasidetocometoroomtemperature1½tspvanilla

extractfinelygratedzestof2lemons(2tsp)200gfreshblueberries20gflakedalmonds

1Greaseandlinea23cmroundcaketin.Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

2Placethealmonds,coconut,sugar,flourandsaltinalargemixingbowlandwhisktoaerateandremovethelumps.

3Placetheeggsinaseparatemediumbowlandwhisklightly.Addthemeltedbutter,vanillaextractandlemonzestandwhiskagainuntilwellcombined.Pourthisintothedrymixandwhisktocombine.Foldin150gblueberries,thenpourthemixtureintothetin.Sprinklethelastoftheblueberriesontop,alongwiththeflakedalmonds,andbakefor50–55minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothe

centreofthecakecomesoutclean.Keepacloseeyeonittowardstheendofcooking:therelativelylargenumberofeggsinthemixmeansthatitcangofromstillbeingalittlebitliquidinthecentretobeingwellcookedinjustafewminutes.

4Setasidefor30minutesbeforeinvertingoutofthetin,removingthebakingparchmentandplacingthecaketherightwayuponaservingplate.Itcaneitherbeservedwarmwithcreamorsetasideuntilcool.

Thiswillkeepforupto3daysinanairtightcontainerorwrappedinaluminiumfoil.Italsofreezeswellforuptoamonth.

Coconut,almondandblueberrycake

Take-homechocolatecake

TherecipeforthisfirstappearedinanarticlewrittenaboutHelenwhensheranhercafé,theMortar&Pestle,inMelbourne.RatherintimidatinglyforHelen,theheadlineforthearticlewas:‘World’sBestChocolateCake’.Nothinglikesettingthebarhighintermsofexpectation!Alltheseyearson,though,itstillstandsthetestoftime.

Itcouldactuallybecalledlotsofthings:‘world’seasiestcake’,possibly,requiringnothingmorethanonelargebowltomakeitallin.Or‘mostversatilecake’,giventhatitcanbeservedun-iced,withjustalightdustingofcocoapowder,ordresseduptothenines,aswehavedonehere,withathinlayerofchocolateganacheandservedwithespressocinnamonmascarponecream.

Intheshops,however,itjustgoesbythename‘take-homechocolatecake’.Thisisbecausewemakeitasasmallercake(asseeninthephoto)tobesharedbyfourpeopleafterameal.Thenamelivesonthough,evenintherecipeforourlargerversionhere.Thecakekeepssowellthatcustomerswouldstillbeabletotakehomeawholecake,eveniftherewereonlyfourpeopleatthefirstsitting.

SERVES12

250gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cutinto2cmcubes,plusextraforgreasing200gdarkcookingchocolate(70%cocoasolids),choppedinto2cmpieces1½tspinstantcoffeegranules,dissolvedin350mlboilingwater250gcastersugar

2largeeggs,lightlybeaten2tspvanillaextract240gself-raisingflour30gDutch-processedcocoapowder,plus1½tspextrafordusting¼tspsalt

CHOCOLATEGANACHE(OPTIONAL)200gdarkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),brokenorchoppedroughlyinto2cmpieces200ml

doublecream1tbspgoldensyrup1tbspunsaltedbutter,softened

ESPRESSOCINNAMONMASCARPONECREAM(OPTIONAL)375mldoublecream190gmascarponescrapedseedsof½vanillapod2½tspfinelygroundespressocoffee¾tspgroundcinnamon2½tbspicingsugar

1Preheattheovento170°C/150°C/GasMark3.Greasea23cmroundcaketinandlinewithbakingparchment,thensetaside.

2Placethebutter,chocolateandhotcoffeeinalargeheatproofbowlandmixwelluntileverythingismelted,combinedandsmooth.Whiskinthesugarbyhanduntildissolved.Addtheeggsandvanillaandwhiskagainuntilthemixisthoroughlycombinedandsmooth.Sifttheflour,cocoapowderandsalttogetherintoabowlandwhiskthisintothemeltedchocolatemix.Thebatterhereisliquid,butdon’tthinkyouhavemissedsomething:thisishowitshouldbe.Pourthemixtureintothepreparedcaketinandbakefor60minutes,oruntilthecakeiscookedandaskewerinsertedintothecentrecomesoutcleanorwithjustafewdrycrumbsattached.Thetopwillformacrustandcrackalittle,butdon’tworry,thisisexpected.Leavethecaketocoolfor20minutesbeforeremovingfromthetin,andsetasideuntilcompletelycool.

3Fortheganache,placethechocolatepiecesinafoodprocessor,blitzuntilfineandsetaside.

4Putthecreamandgoldensyrupintoasmallpanandplaceoveramedium-highheat.Assoonasbubblesbegintoappear–justbeforeitcomestotheboil–removefromtheheat.Getthefoodprocessorrunningagain,withthechocolatestillinside,andpourinthehotcreaminasteadystream.Processforabout10seconds,thenaddthebutter.Continuetoprocessuntilthemixtureisshinyandsmooth.

5Youcanalsomaketheganachebyhand:justmakesurethechocolateischoppedfairlyfinelybeforeyouscaldthecreamandgoldensyrupandpouritoverthechocolate.Stireverythingtogetherwithawoodenspoonuntilalmostmelted,thenaddthebutter.Stiragainuntiltheganacheissmooth.

6Whetheryoumakeitinamachineorbyhand,usearubberspatulatoscrapetheganacheintoabowlandcoverwithclingfilm,withtheclingfilmactuallytouchingthetopoftheganache.Setasideuntilithassettotheconsistencyyouwant,thenuseittoicethecake:ifyouwantathinlayertospreadoverthecake,itcanbepouredoverwhileliquidsothatyougetaneven,lightandshinycoating.Forathickerganachewithaspreadingconsistency,leaveitforabout2hoursatroomtemperaturebeforeusingaspatulaorknifetoicethecake.

7Ifmakingtheespressocinnamonmascarponecream,placealltheingredientsinthebowlofanelectricfoodmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Beatfor1–2minutesuntilsoftpeaksform.

8Dividethecakebetweenplatesandspoonthemascarponecreamalongside,ifusing.

Theganachecanbestoredatroomtemperature,providingit’snottoowarm,for3days,orkeptinthefridgeforupto2weeks.Itcanalsobefrozen,althoughitwillloseabitofitsshinewhendefrosted.

Icedorun-iced,thecakewillkeepwellfor4–5daysinanairtightcontainer.

Take-homechocolatecake

ApricotandalmondcakewithcinnamontoppingWehaveusedapricotshere,butotherstonedfruit–plumsorpeaches,forexample–workwellifapricotsarenotinseasonandyoudon’twanttousetinned.Justmakesurethepiecesoffruitarenottooheavyorlarge,asyoudon’twantthemtosink.

Thetoppinghasawayofcookingquiteirregularly–bucklinghereandthereontopandsometimeseven‘seeping’intothebatterbelow–butdon’tworryifthishappens:it’sallpartofthecake’srusticcharm.

SERVES10

CINNAMONTOPPING60gunsaltedbutter100gcastersugar2tspgroundcinnamon1/8tspsalt2largeeggs,lightlybeaten

CAKE85gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature200gcastersugar2largeeggsfinelygratedzestof1smalllemon(¾tsp)1tspvanillaextract¼tspalmondextract220gself-raisingflour1/8tspsalt160gsouredcream35ggroundalmonds8largeapricots(500g),halvedandstoned,or20tinnedapricothalves(500gdrainedweight)

1Tomakethetopping,meltthebutterinasmallsaucepanandaddthesugar,cinnamonandsalt.Stirtocombine,thenremovefromtheheat.Allowtocoolfor5minutes,stirthroughthebeateneggsandsetaside.

2Preheattheovento195°C/175°CFan/GasMark5.Greasea23cmroundspringformtinandlinewithbakingparchment.

3Tomakethecake,placethebutterandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeeduntillightandfluffy,thenaddtheeggs,oneatatime,beatingwellaftereachadditionandscrapingdownthesidesofthebowlafewtimes.Addthelemonzest,vanillaandalmondextractandmixtocombine.Sifttheflourandsaltintoabowl,reducethespeedofthemixertolowandaddthedryingredientstothecreamedmix,alternatinginbatcheswiththesouredcream,sothatyoubeginandendwiththeflour.Mixtocombine,thenspoonorscrapethebatterintothetin.Smoothoverwithaspatulaorthebackofaspoonandsprinklethegroundalmondsoverthetop.Arrangetheapricothalvesontop,cutsidefacingup,startingaroundtheoutsideedgeofthetinandworkingtowardsthecentre,thenspoonthecinnamontoppingoverandaroundtheapricots.

4Bakeforabout1hour,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothemiddleofthecakecomesoutclean(althoughthetoppingmightstillbeabitsticky).Keepaneyeonittowardstheendofcooking,asitcangofromunder-cookedtoover-cookedveryquickly.Setasidefor20minutesinthetintocoolbeforeremovingandservingwarm,withsomecreamalongside.

Youdon’twanttoinvertthecakehere(becauseofthefruitbakedontop),soaspringformorothercaketinwitharemovablebaseisamust.We’veusedaroundcaketin,butasquaretin–withsimilardimensionsandaremovablebase–alsoworkswell.

Oncebaked,thecakecanbekeptinanairtightcontainerforupto3days.Warmitintheovenfor10–15minutesat200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6beforeserving,ifdesired.

Apricotandalmondcakewithcinnamontopping

PistachiorouladewithraspberriesandwhitechocolateOurtechniqueof‘training’therouladehere(seehere)isaneatlittletrick,ifyoudon’tknowitalready.Onceyou’vecrackedit(ornot,inthecaseofyoursponge),you’llfeellikearoulade-makingpro.

SERVES10

70gshelledpistachiokernels,plusanextra15g,roughlychopped4largeeggs,whitesandyolksseparated

130gcastersugar2tbsphotwater80gself-raisingflour1/8tspsalt1/8tspalmondextract20gicingsugar300gfreshraspberries

WHITECHOCOLATECREAM200gwhitechocolatebuttons,or200gblockofwhitecookingchocolate,roughlychopped

into1cmpieces75gunsaltedbutter,softbutnotoily280gcreamcheese270mldoublecream1/8tspalmondextract

1Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Greasea35x30cmshallowbakingtrayandlinewithbakingparchment.

2Place70gofpistachiosinthesmallbowlofafoodprocessor(oruseaspicegrinder)andgrinduntilfinebutnotoily:don’tworryiftherearesomemedium-sizedpiecesinthemix,thesewillnotaffectthecake.Setasideuntilneeded.

3Placetheeggyolksandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Mixforabout4minutes,untilthickandcreamy.Transferthemixturetoalargebowlandaddthehotwater,dribblingitdownthesidesof

thebowl.Sprinkleoverthegroundpistachiosandgentlyfoldtocombine:don’tworryifit’snotwellmixedatthisstage.

4Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoabowl,thensiftagainintotheeggyolkandpistachiomixture.Foldtocombine.

5Beattheeggwhitesinacleanbowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Whisktoformsoftpeaks,thenfoldintothepistachiomix,athirdatatime,alongwiththealmondextract.Scrapethebatterintothetrayandbakefor15–18minutes,oruntilthecakespringsbackwhenlightlytouchedinthecentre.Removethecakefromtheovenandsetasidefor5minutes.

6Sifthalftheicingsugarevenlyoverthesurfaceofthecakeandcoverwithacleanteatowel.Placeawirerackontop,thenflipthecakeover,sothatthewirerackisnowunderneaththeteatowelandcake.Liftoffthetray,carefullypeelawaythepaperandlightlydustthetopofthecakewiththeremainingicingsugar.

7Withoneoftheshortendsofthespongefacingtowardsyou,rollupthestill-warmcakewiththeteatowelinside.Allowthecaketorestfor10minutes,stillrolledupintheteatowel(this‘trains’thecakeforthefinalroll),thenunrollthecakeandsetasidetocometoroomtemperature.Don’tworryiftheendsofthecakecurlupalittleorifthesurfacehassomecracksinit:thisoftenhappens.

8Makethechocolatecreamwhilethecakeiscooling.Placethechocolateinabowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater,makingsurethebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewater.Stirfromtimetotimeuntilmelted,thenremovefromtheheatandsetasidetocoolslightly.Placethebutterinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeedfor30seconds,untilsmooth,thenaddthecreamcheese.Beatwelltocombine,thenaddthemeltedchocolate.Continuetobeatuntilsmoothbeforeaddingthedoublecreamandalmondextract.Beatonamedium-highspeeduntilthemixtureformssoftwaves.

9Whenreadytoassemble,useasmallspatulatospreadabouttwo-thirdsofthewhitechocolatecreamevenlyoverthesurfaceofthecake.Leaveaborderofabout2cmwithoutanycreamattheshortendofthecakefurthestawayfromyou.Placeallbuttwelveoftheraspberriesevenlyontopofthecream,thenroll

thecakeupasyoudidbefore,thistimewithouttheteatowelinside.Usingalongspatulaorfishslice,transferthecaketoalongplatter.Useasmallspatulaorbutterknifetospreadtheremainingcreamalloverthecake,smoothingitoutasyougo.Placetheremainingraspberriesalongthecentreofthecake,andsprinklewiththeextrapistachionuts.

Thewhitechocolatecreamcanbepreparedadayinadvanceandkeptinthefridge;removeitfromthefridgeabout30minutesbeforeyouwanttouseit,sothatitsoftensupalittle.

Onceassembled,thecakeisbesteatenonthesameday,althoughanyleftoverswillkeepinthefridgeforuptoaday.Allowittorestatroomtemperaturefor30minutesbeforeserving.

Pistachiorouladewithraspberriesandwhitechocolate

TropicalfruitcakeThisisanexceptionallymoistcake–almostunusuallyso,withitsbountyofpineappleandbananaandtheadditionofoil.It’sknownasa‘hummingbirdcake’inAustralia,NewZealandandCanada,andistraditionallyicedwithaplaincreamcheeseicing,butwe’veaddedmangopuréehere:it’snotthatthecakeneedsanyhelp–youcaneatitwithoutanyicingatall,ifyoulike–butwelovethechrome-yellowcolouritbringstothecakeandthewayitcomplementsthetropicalfruitsinside.Piledhighwithfreshfruitontop,thisisanunexpectedlyrefreshingcake.

Cannedpineappleisafinealternativetofresh,ifyouprefer.Drainyourchunksorslicesandproceed,aspertherecipe,tochoptheminthefoodprocessor.

SERVES8

1mediumpineapple,peeledandcoreremoved:300gofthefleshshouldbecutinto3–4cmchunksforthecake,50gofthefleshshouldbecutinto2–3cmchunksforthegarnish2largeeggs

1tspvanillaextract100gsoftlightbrownsugar100gcastersugar160mlsunfloweroil2ripebananas,peeledandmashed(150g)45gdesiccatedcoconut225gplainflour1tspbicarbonateofsoda½tspgroundcinnamon½tspgroundginger½tspgroundcardamom½tspsalt

ICING¼ofalargeripemango,peeledandroughlychopped(50g)65gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature100gcreamcheese75gicingsugar,sifted

TOGARNISH½banana,cutintoroughly1cmpieces(50g)1/3ofalargeripemango,fleshcutintolong,thinstrips(70g)50gpineappleflesh(seeabove)

scoopedoutseedsof1passionfruit20gflakedcoconut

1Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Greaseandlinethebaseandsidesofa20cmroundspringformtinwithbakingparchmentandsetaside.

2Place300gofpineapplefleshinafoodprocessorandusethepulsebuttontocrushthefruit:itshouldbefinelychoppedbutnotbecomeapurée.Ifstartingwithfreshpineapple,tipthefinelychoppedfleshintoamediumsaucepanandplaceoveramediumheat.Bringtoasimmer,cookfor4–5minutes(takingcarethatitdoesnotboilvigorously,asthiswillcausetoomuchoftheliquidtoevaporate),thentransfertoalargemixingbowl(largeenoughtomixthewholecakeinlater)tocool.Ifyouarestartingwithcannedpineappleyoucanskipthisboilingstage.

3Placetheeggs,vanilla,softbrownsugarandcastersugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Whisktogetherforabout3minutes,untilcreamy,then,withthemachineonamediumspeed,pourintheoilinaslowandsteadystreamuntilcombined.Addthistothebowlofcooledpineapplealongwiththemashedbananasanddesiccatedcoconut.Stirtocombine.

4Sifttheflour,bicarbonateofsoda,spicesandsalttogetherintothewetmixandusealargerubberspatulatofolduntiljustcombined.Pourintothecaketinandbakeforabout40minutes,untilnicelybrowned.Reducetheoventemperatureto180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4andcontinuetocookfor10–15minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentrecomesoutclean.Removethecakefromtheovenandleavetocoolinitstinforaboutanhouronawirerack.Turnoutontoaservingplatter,carefullyremovethepaper,thensetasidetocoolcompletely.

5Tomaketheicing,placethemangofleshinthesmallbowlofafoodprocessorandblitztoformafinepurée.Tipoutintoasmallbowlandsetaside.Addthebutterandcreamcheesetothefoodprocessor–thereisnoneedto

washthebowl–andprocessuntilsmooth.Addtheicingsugar,pulsetocombine,thenaddthemangopurée.Pulseagainuntilevenlymixedandscrapeintoabowl.Keepinthefridge,covered,foratleast2hours–itneedsthistimetothicken–beforeicingthecake.

6Whenreadytoserve,useasmallspatulaorknifetospreadathicklayerofthemangoicingalloverthetopandsidesofthecake.Placeallthefruitforgarnishinasmallbowl,mixgently,thenspoonitintothecentreofthecake:youwantittobepiledupinthemiddle,ratherthanspreadevenlyoverthetop.Finishbypressingtheflakedcoconutintojustthesidesofthecake,andserve.

Thecreamcheeseicingcanbemadeadayahead.Infact,itneedstoberefrigeratedforatleast2hourstofirmupbeforecoveringthecake,soit’sgoodtogetahead.

Un-iced,thecakewillkeepforaround3daysinanairtightcontainer.Onceiced,itisbesteatenonthesameday.Leftoverscanbekeptinthefridgeforadayortwo:justbringthecakebacktoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

Tropicalfruitcake

PistachioandrosewatersemolinacakeMakingthiscakeisalabouroflove,butthat’sonlyappropriate,wethink,foracakeadornedwithrosepetals.Ifyouwanttosavetime,however,youcandowithoutthepetalsoruseshop-boughtdriedrosepetals:thecakeandcreamarebothspecialenoughforthoseyoufeedtoknowyoulovethem.Ifyouaregoingall-outwiththeroses,redorpinkpetalsisamatterofpreference:theredpetalswillturnadeeppurpleoncecandied.

SERVES10–12

3cardamompods150gshelledpistachiokernels,plusanextra20g,finelychopped,toserve100gground

almonds170gfinesemolina1¼tspbakingpowder¼tspsalt300gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cubed,plusextraforgreasing330gcastersugar4largeeggs,lightlywhiskedfinelygratedzestof1lemon(1tsp),plus1tbsplemonjuice2tbsprosewater(notroseessence,seehere)½tspvanillaextract

CREAM200gGreekyoghurt200gcrèmefraîche1tbspicingsugar1tbsprosewater

SYRUP100mllemonjuice80mlrosewater100gcastersugar

CRYSTALLIZEDROSEPETALS(IFUSING)1largeeggwhite10gpesticide-freeredorpinkrosepetals(about40mediumrosepetals)25gcastersugar

1Preheattheovento100°C/80°CFan/GasMark¼.Lineabakingtraywithbakingparchment,andgreasea23cmspringformcaketinandlinewithbakingparchment.

2Tocrystallizetherosepetals,ifdoingso,whisktheeggwhitebyhanduntilfrothy,then,usingasmallpastrybrushorpaintbrush,verylightlypaintoverbothsidesofeachpetalwiththeeggwhite:dothisintwoorthreesmallbatches,brushingandthensprinklinglightlyoverbothsideswiththesugar.Shakeofftheexcesssugarandlaythepetalsonthelinedbakingtray.Placeintheovenfor30minutes,untildryandcrunchy,thensetasidetocool.

3Increasetheoventemperatureto180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

4Usetheflatsideofalargeknifetocrushthecardamompodsandplacetheseedsinthesmallbowlofafoodprocessor:you’llhavejustunder¼teaspoonofseeds.Thepodscanbediscarded.Addthepistachiosandblitzuntilthenutsarefinelyground–theblackcardamomseedswon’treallygrinddown–thentransfertoabowl.Addthegroundalmonds,semolina,bakingpowderandsalt.Mixtogetherandsetaside.

5Placethebutterandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeeduntilfullycombined,buttakecarenottoover-work:youdon’twanttoincorporatealotofairintothemix.Withthemachinestillrunning,slowlyaddtheeggs,scrapingdownthesidesofthebowlafewtimesandmakingsurethateachbatchisfullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext.Themixwillcurdleoncetheeggsareadded,butdon’tworry:thiswillnotaffecttheendresult.

6Removethebowlfromthemachineandaddthedryingredients,foldingtheminbyhandand,again,takingcarenottoover-mix.Nextfoldinthelemonzest,juice,rosewaterandvanillaandscrapethebatterintothetin.Levelwithapaletteknifeandbakeforabout55–60minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutcleanbutoily.

7Makethecreamwhilethecakeisintheoven.Placealltheingredientsforthecreaminabowlanduseahand-heldwhisktowhipeverythingtogetherforabout2minutes,untilthick.Keepinthefridgeuntilreadytoserve.

8Starttomakethesyrupabout10minutesbeforethecakecomesoutoftheoven:youwantittobewarmwhenthecakeisready.Placealltheingredientsforthesyrupinasmallsaucepanoveramediumheat.Bringtotheboil,stirringsothatthesugardissolves,thenremovefromtheheat:don’tworrythattheconsistencyisthinnerthanyoumightexpect,thisishowitshouldbe.

9Assoonasthecakecomesoutoftheoven,drizzleallofthesyrupoverthetop.Itisalotofsyrup,butdon’tloseyournerve:thecakecantakeit!Sprinkleoverthefinelychoppedpistachiosandsetthecakeasideinitstintocometoroomtemperature.Removefromthetinandscattertherosepetalsoverthecake.Servewithagenerousspoonfulofcreamalongside.

Thecakekeepswellforupto5daysinanairtightcontainer.Therosepetalsshouldbesprinkledoverjustbeforeserving.

Pistachioandrosewatersemolinacake

FestivefruitcakeWesellthiscakeatChristmasandEastertimeintheshop.It’salsoagoodbaseforawedding(oranyotherfestive)cake.Theverysmallamountofgroundalmondsinthebatterhelpstobindit,aswellasaddingtotheshelflife.TheinclusionofalcoholisnottraditionalinanEastercake,butwefindthecombinationofdriedfruitandboozeveryhardtoresist.Getthebest-qualitydriedfruityoucanforthis:itmakesallthedifference.

SERVESABOUT20

200gplainflour15ggroundalmonds1/3tspbicarbonateofsoda¾tspmixedspice¾tspgroundcinnamon1/3tspnutmeg¼tspsalt150gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cutinto2cmcubes,plusextraforgreasing120g

softdarkbrownsugarfinelygratedzestof1lemon(1tsp)finelygratedzestof1smallorange(1tsp)15gblacktreacleormolasses25gfine-cutorno-peelorangemarmalade2largeeggs,beaten,plus1extraegg,lightlybeaten,forfoldingthroughattheend35ml

brandy35mldarkrum

FRUITMIX140gcurrants380graisins120gready-to-eat,softdriedapricots,toughstemsremovedandroughlychopped5Medjool

dates,pittedandroughlychopped(75g)75gpittedprunes,roughlychopped75gglacécherries,roughlychopped100gbest-qualitymixedpeel(orcandiedorangepeel)75mldarkrum75mlbrandy

TOPPING60gfine-cutorno-peelorangemarmalade(ifyouonlyhavethickcut,justfinelychopthe

piecesoforange)300ggoldenmarzipan(25–30%almonds)

1Tomakethefruitmix,placeallthefruitinalargecontainerwithalid.Pourovertherumandbrandyandmixwell.Coverandleaveatroomtemperaturefor24–48hours,shakingthecontainereveryfewhours.

2Preheattheovento160°C/140°CFan/GasMark3.Greasean18cmsquareor20cmroundcaketinandlinethebaseandsideswithtwolayersofparchmentpaper.Allowforenoughpapersothatitrisesoverandabovethetopedgeofthetinby5cm.Havingtwolayerswillinsulatethecakefromtheheatofthemetaltinsothatthesidesdon’tcooktooquickly.Setasideuntilneeded.

3Tomakethecake,placetheflour,groundalmonds,bicarbonateofsoda,spicesandsaltinamediumbowl.Useahandwhisktostiruntilanylumpsinthealmondsarebrokenup.

4Placethebutter,sugarandbothzestsinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeedfor2–3minutes,untilpaleandwellcombined.Addthetreacleandmarmaladeandmixtocombine.Addthe2eggsgradually,mixingwellaftereachaddition,untilfullyincorporated,scrapingdownthesidesofthebowl.Reducethespeedtolowandslowlyaddthedryingredients.Mixuntiljustcombined,thenaddthemaceratedfruit.Gentlymix,thenremovethebowlfromthemixer.Useawoodenspoontofoldthroughthelastegg.

5Spoonthecakemixintothepreparedtinanduseaspatulatomakeaslightdipinthecentreofthebattertoensureaneventoponthecakeonceitiscooked.Bakeforbetween2hoursand2hours15minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean(coverwithfoilifthecakelookslikeitistakingontoomuchcolour).

6Mixtogetherthebrandyandruminabowlandsetaside.Assoonasthecakecomesoutoftheoven,brushthealcoholoverthetopuntilit’sallsoakedin.Setasideuntilcompletelycoolandstoreinanairtightcontainer(for1week,ideally)beforedecorating.

7Forthetopping,spreadallbut½teaspoonofthemarmaladeoverthetopofthecaketoformathinlayer.Onaworksurfacewhichhasbeenlightlysprinkledwithicingsugar,rolloutthemarzipanto0.5cmthick.Usethebaseofthecaketintocutoutasquareorcirclethesamesizeasthecakeandlaythisontopofthecake.Gentlypresstosealittothemarmalade,thenusetheremainingmarzipantomaketwelvesmallballs,about5geach.Dipthebaseoftheballsintheremainingmarmaladeandstickthemontothecake,threeballsineachcorner;ifyouaremakingaroundcake,putthreeballsinthemiddleofthecakeandspacetheremainingballsaroundtheedgeofthecake.

8Ifyouhaveablowtorch,lightlyscorchthetopofthecakeandballstogivethemarzipansomecolour.Alternatively,youcanplacethecakeunderahotgrillforafewminutes:justkeepacloseeyeonitsothatitdoesn’ttakeontoomuchcolour.

Thiscanbemadeineitheran18cmsquareor20cmroundcaketin.Ablowtorchishandyhere,toscorchthetopofthemarzipanalternatively,youcanputthecakeunderahotgrill.

Thefruitneedstobemaceratedfor24–48hoursbeforebaking.Thecakeitselfneedstositforatleastadaybeforedecoratingandserving,however,theflavourswilldevelopovertime,soideallymakeitaweekinadvanceandstoreinanairtightcontainer.

Onceiced,thecakewillkeepforupto3monthsinanairtightcontainer.

Festivefruitcake

Flourlesschocolatelayercakewithcoffee,walnutsandrosewater

Thisstartedlifeasaroulade.Havingnoflourinit,though,itwassodelicatethat,ratherthanrollingintoneatlayers,itkeptcrackingintothreemore-or-lessevenlayers.Itlookedsogreatinitsdeconstructedformthatwedecidedtoconvertitintoalayercake.Don’tdespairifsomethingdoesn’tgoaccordingtoplanAinthekitchen–planBcanbeevenbetter!Thepairingofthecoffeewithrosewatermightseemabitoddbut,actually,Turkishdelightiscommonlyeatenalongsidestrongblackcoffee.

Asalwayswithnuts–butparticularlywithwalnuts–tasteyourbatchbeforeyoustartbaking.Therangeinqualitycanbehugeandwillmakeorbreakthetasteofthecake.You’llknowbyjusttryingonenutwhetheryou’reontoagoodthing.Don’tbeputoffbythelargeamountofwalnutsrequiredhere:there’salotofrichnessintheotherwisedelicatespongeandcreamwhichthenutsbalanceout.

SERVES8

CAKE120gwalnuthalves6largeeggs,whitesandyolksseparated215gcastersugar215gdarkcookingchocolate(70%cocoasolids),roughlychoppedorbrokenup2½tspinstant

coffeegranules50mlhotwater

CARAMELIZEDWALNUTTOPPING30gcastersugar40gwalnuthalves,roughlychopped

ROSEWATERCREAM380mldoublecream2½tbspicingsugar

1½tbsprosewater(notroseessence,seehere)

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Greasea35x25cmSwissrolltinandlinewithbakingparchment,thensetaside.

2Spread120gwalnutsoutonabakingtrayandroastfor8minutes.Setasidetocool,thenroughlychopandsetasideuntilassemblingthecake.Increasetheoventemperatureto200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.

3Tomakethecake,placetheyolksinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeedand,withthemachinestillrunning,graduallyaddthesugar.Continuetobeatuntilthemixtureisthick,lighterincolourandtrebledinvolume.

4Whiletheyolksarebeating,placethechocolatepiecesinalargeheatproofbowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater,makingsurethebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewater.Placethecoffeegranulesinasmallcupanddissolvein50mlhotwater.Addthecoffeetothechocolateandstirgently(itwillseizeupifyoustirtoooftenortoovigorously)untilthechocolatehascompletelymelted.Turnofftheheatandfoldtheyolkandsugarmixintothechocolatemixtureinthreebatches.

5Placetheeggwhitesinacleanbowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Whiskonahighspeeduntilstiffpeaksform,thenfoldgentlyintothechocolatemix.Scrapethemixtureintothetin,spreadingoverthesurfacesothatitiseven.Bakefor20minutes,untilcookedthroughandaskewerinsertedintothecentrecomesoutclean,thensetasidetocoolcompletely.

6Tocaramelizethewalnuts,lineasmallbakingtray(withalippededge)withbakingparchment.Placethesugarand40gwalnutsinasmallsautéorfryingpanandcookoveramedium-highheatuntilthesugarbeginstomeltandturnapaleambercolour.Useaspatulatostirthewalnutsandsugartogether,sothatthewalnutsareevenlycoated.Continuetocookforanother5minutes,untilthecaramelisadarkamberandthewalnutsaregoldenbrown.Removefromtheheatandpourontothelinedtray.Setasidetocool,thenroughlybreakanyclumpsofwalnutsintosmallerpieces.Youcanmaketheseinadvanceandstoretheminanairtightcontainer.

7Maketherosewatercreamoncethecakeiscool.Placealltheingredientsforthecreaminthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Whipuntilsoftpeaksform,thensetasideinthefridgeuntilreadytoassemblethecake.

8Turnthecooledcakeoutontoachoppingboardandremovethetinandpaper.Placeasecondchoppingboardontopofthecakeandflipitbackover,sothatthecrustsideofthecakeisfacingupwards.Trimabout0.5cmofftheshortedgesofthecake,thencutthespongeintothreeevenpieces,eachabout25x11cm.Carefullytransferonepieceofcakeontoaservingplatterandspreadone-thirdoftherosewatercreamevenlyoverthesurfaceofthecake.Sprinklehalftheroastedwalnutsoverthecreamandplaceanotherlayerofspongeontop.Repeatwiththecreamandremainingwalnuts,thenplacethefinallayerofspongeontop.Dollopandspreadtheremainingcreamontopofthecake.Sprinklethecaramelizedwalnutsontopofthecreamandserve.

Thecakeisbesteatenonthedayitismade.Anyleftoverscanbestoredinthefridge,wrappedinclingfilm,whereitwillkeepforupto2days.Removefromthefridgeatleast30minutesbeforeserving,sothatitisnotfridge-cold.

Flourlesschocolatelayercakewithcoffee,walnutsandrosewater

LouisecakewithplumandcoconutThisisinspiredby(butcompletelydifferentto!)the‘Louise’cake:ahugelypopularteatimetreatinNewZealand.Moreofaslicethanacake,it’straditionallymadewithathincakeybottom,aspreadofraspberryjaminthemiddleandathinlayerofcoconutmeringueontop.We’vekeptthelayersthemebutrungalotofchanges.

Wesellthisinourshopsasa‘summerslice’,usingthebeststonefruits,frompeachestoapricotstocherries,dependingonwhat’sinseason.Whicheverfruityouuse,itneedstoberipebutnottoosoft.

SERVES9

125gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cutinto2cmcubes100gcastersugarfinelygratedzestof1lemon(1tsp)3largeeggyolks125gplainflour1½tspbakingpowder¼tspsalt20gdesiccatedcoconut80mlwholemilk1tspvanillaextract5mediumdarkredplums,ripebutfirm(450g),orpeaches,apricots,cherries,etc.

MERINGUE60gflakedalmonds140geggwhites(from3½largeeggs)1/8tspsalt185gcastersugar1tspvanillaextract1tspwhitewinevinegar1tspcornflour

1Preheattheovento170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.

2Spreadouttheflakedalmondsforthemeringueonabakingtrayandroastfor10minutes,untiltheyarealightgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocool.

3Increasetheoventemperatureto185°C/165°CFan/GasMark5.Linethebaseandsidesofahigh-sided20cmsquareor23cmroundtin(witharemovablebase)withbakingparchment.

4Placethebutter,sugarandlemonzestinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeed,untillightandcreamy.Addtheeggyolks,oneatatime,andbeatuntilcombined.Sifttheflour,bakingpowderandsalttogetherintoabowl.Addthecoconutandstirtocombine.Withthemachineonalowspeed,graduallyaddthedryingredientstothebuttermix,alternatingwiththemilkandvanilla.Scrapethebatterintothepreparedtin–itwillonlyriseaboutafifthofthewayupthesides–andsmooththetopevenly.Placeintheovenandcookfor25minutes,untilthecakeisfullycookedandaskewerinsertedintothecentrecomesoutclean.

5Meanwhile,preparetheplums.Sliceeachplumverticallyinhalf.Discardthestonesandsliceeachhalfintofoursegmentssothatyouhaveeightsegmentsperplumandfortysegmentsintotal.Ifyoustartwithalargerquantityofsmallerplums,oranothersmallerstonefruitlikecherries,thenjustquartereachfruit.

6Whenthecakeiscooked,removeitfromtheovenandturnthetemperatureupto200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Gentlylaytheplumsegmentsontopofthecake,closetogetherandcutsidedown.Don’toverlapthefruit,though,asthiswillmakethemiddlelayertoowatery.

7Tomakethemeringue,placetheeggwhitesandsaltinacleanbowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeedforabout1minuteuntilsoftpeaksform.Addthesugar,atablespoonatatime,andcontinuetowhiskonahighspeeduntiltheeggwhitesarestiffandglossy.Addthevanilla,vinegarandcornflourandwhiskagainuntilcombined.Finally,foldinthetoastedflakedalmonds.

8Scrapethemeringueintothecaketin,ontopoftheplums,andspreadoutevenlyoverthefruit.Swirlthemeringuearoundsoyougetroughwavesandpeaks,thenplaceintheoven.Immediatelylowertheoventemperatureto

180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4andbakefor35minutes,oruntilthemeringuehasformedahardcrustandisjustbeginningtobrown.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolinthecaketinforatleast30minutesbeforepushinguptheremovablebasetoreleasethecake.Peelawaytheparchmentpaper,placeonaplatter,andserve.

Traditionally,Louisecakesarebakedinrectangulartinsandcutintofairlythinsquares.We’vemadeoursinahigh-sided20cmsquaretinwitharemovablebase.Theresultingslicesareaboutthreetimestheheightoftheoriginal.Welovetheheight–itmakeseveryonefeellikeakidwhenpresentedwithaslice–butyoucanalsomakeitina23cmroundspringformtininstead,ifnecessary.Wedgesarenotasneattocutassquares,butthecakewillstillworkwell.

Thecakeisatitsbestonthedayit’smade,butisabsolutelyfinekeptforupto2daysinanairtightcontainerinthefridge.Theplumjuicewillmakethebaseabitsoggyafterdayone,butthiswon’taffectthetaste.

Louisecakewithplumandcoconut

AlmondbuttercakewithcardamomandbakedplumsWhenHelenwasworkingasapastrychefatDonovan’srestaurantinMelbourne,therewasaseriouslyVIPreservation:StephanieAlexanderandMaggieBeer–bothbignamesontheAustralianfoodscene–wereinfortheevening,havingsuppertogether.Nervousaboutwhattobakeforsuchaspecialoccasion,HelenpounceduponafreshbatchofMorellocherries,whichshedecidedtoservealongwiththiscake.Thedishgotthedoublethumbs-up,soanewrecipe–andHelen’sday–wasmade.FreshMorellocherriesarenotalwayseasytocomeby,sowe’veswitchedtobakedplums,whichworkwonderfullywell.Usethecherriesifyoucanfindthem(theyalsocomeinjars),butdon’tbetemptedtouseregularblackcherries:theydon’thavetheflavouroracidityneededforcooking.Poachedquincearealsolovely.

Fornotesontheimportantdifferencebetweenalmondpasteandmarzipan,seehereandhere.

SERVES8–10

BAKEDPLUMS650gplums(about8–10)100mldrywhitewine80gcastersugar10wholecardamompods,roughlycrushedinapestleandmortar¼tspgroundcinnamon1longstripoforangepeel100mlwater

CAKE200galmondpaste,brokeninto4or5pieces200gcastersugar250gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperaturefinelygratedzestof1largeorange(1tbsp)¾tspfreshlygroundcardamom(seehere)6largeeggs1/8tspalmondextract140gplainflour

20gcornflour1½tspbakingpowder¼tspsalt

1Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Placetheplumsinanevenlayerinasmall22x16cmovenproofbakingdishandsetaside.

2Placethewhitewine,sugar,cardamom,cinnamon,orangepeelandwaterinamediumsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Removefromtheheatandcarefullypourovertheplums.Coverthedishtightlywithaluminiumfoilandbakefor20–40minutes–thecookingtimedependsonthesizeandripenessoftheplums–oruntiltheyaresoftbutstillwhole:youcanchecktheirsoftnesswithaskewer.Setaside,covered,untilrequired.Theplumscanbeservedwarmoratroomtemperature.

3Reducetheoventemperatureto180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

4Tomakethecake,greaseandfloura23cmbundttin.Placethealmondpasteinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace,addthesugarandbeatonamedium-lowspeedforabout3minutes,forthealmondpastetobreakup.Addthebutter,orangezestandgroundcardamomandcontinuetobeat.Addtheeggs,oneatatime,beatingwellbetweeneachadditionandscrapingdownthesidesofthebeaterandbowlfromtimetotime.Addthealmondextractandbeattocombine.Sifttheflour,cornflour,bakingpowderandsalttogetherintoabowlandaddthistothecreamedmix,beatingonamedium-lowspeeduntiljustcombined.

5Scrapethemixtureintothebundttinandbakefor50–55minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolinthetinfor15minutesbeforeinvertingontoacakeplatter.Servefreshfromtheoven,oratroomtemperature,withthebakedplumsandjuicesalongside.Rememberthatthestonehasnotbeenremovedfromtheplums–servingthemastheyareispartoftherusticnatureofthedish–sowatchout!Ifyoudowanttoremovethestones,justbreaktheplumsopenanddosobeforeserving.

Theplumscanbebakedupto3daysinadvanceandwarmedthrough(for10minutesat200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6)beforeserving.

Thecakewillkeepforupto3days,wrappedinclingfilmoraluminiumfoilatroomtemperature.

Pineappleandstaranisechiffoncake

Thiscakeisaslightasitislarge–thebenefitbeing,ofcourse,thateveryonecanhaveagreatbigsliceandstillbeabletobounceawayfromthetable.Thelightandbillowytextureisaresultofboththelackofbutter(inthecakeandtheicing)andthewhiskedeggwhitesbeingfolded(withalltheiraeration)intothebatterjustbeforebaking.

Thepineapple‘flowers’lookgreatanddon’trequireanyfancykit,butthecakeworksfinewithoutthemifit’sasteptoofar.You’vegotthepineapplethere,though,soweencourageyoutogivethematry!Asanalternative,somejuliennedstripsoforangezestorwholestaranise(fordecoration,ratherthaneating)workwell.

Thisisacakewhichdeliversinallareas:packedwithflavour,lightasadreamandacomplete‘wow’tolookat.Getholdofyourchiffoncaketin,shapeyourpineappleslicesintoflowers,thengetyourheadaroundthedoublenegativesintheKitNote.Therestisjustagoodold-fashionedcake.

SERVES12

1largepineapple(about1.2kg),peeledandcoreremoved:two-thirdsofthefleshroughlychopped(400gnet)forthecake;theotherthird,unchopped(200g),isusedforthepineappleflowers225gself-raisingflour

240gcastersugar,plusanextra50gfortheeggwhites1½tspgroundstaranise(or3wholestaranise,blitzedinaspicegrinderandpassedthrough

afine-meshsieve),plusextratogarnish½tspsalt125mlsunfloweroil130geggyolksand300geggwhites,separated(from7or8largeeggs)finelygratedzestof2

largeoranges(2tbsp)scrapedseedsof½vanillapod1¼tspcreamoftartar

ICING300gicingsugar(‘pure’icingsugarisbesthere,ifyoucangetholdofit–seehere),sifted

60mlpineapplejuice(fromthelargepineappleabove)

DRIEDPINEAPPLEFLOWERS30gcastersugar30mlwater1/3ofalargepineapple(seeabove),slicedwidthwaysasthinlyasyoucanwithouttearingthe

slices:aserratedbreadknifeworkswell.Ideally,you’llget10–12slices,about1–2mmthick

1Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.

2Placethe400gchoppedpineappleinafoodprocessorandblitztoformafinepurée.Transfertoamediumsaucepanandbringtotheboiloveramedium-highheat.Simmerfor3minutes,thenremovefromtheheat.Reserve200gofthepuréeforthecakeandsetasidetocool.Straintheremaining200gthroughafine-meshsieveplacedoverabowltogetthe60mlyouneedfortheicing.Ifyoufallshortof60ml,justmakeitupwithwaterororangejuice.

3Placetheflour,240gofsugar,groundstaraniseandsaltinalargemixingbowlandwhisktocombineandaerate.Makeawellinthecentreandaddthe200gofpineapplepurée,sunfloweroil,eggyolks,orangezestandvanillaseeds.Whisktheeggsandliquidstogetherbeforegentlydrawinginthedryingredientstoformasmoothbatter.

4Placetheeggwhitesinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Beatonahighspeedforabout30seconds,untilfrothy,thenaddthecreamoftartar.Continuetobeatuntilsoftpeaksform,thengraduallysprinkleintheextra50gsugar.Continuetobeatforabout5minutes,untilstiff,glossypeaksform.Usealargewhiskorrubberspatulatogentlybutthoroughlyfoldthemeringueintothebatter,untilthemixtureiswellcombinedandtherearenostreaksofmeringuevisible.

5Pourthebatterintotheungreasedchiffoncaketin(seeKitNotefortheimportanceofnotgreasingthetin)–themixtureshouldreachupto3–4cmfromthetopofthetin–andbakefor50minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.Coverwithaluminiumfoilforthelast25minutesorso,ifitlooksasthoughyourcakeistakingontoomuchcolour.Removefromtheovenandimmediatelyinvertthetin:don’tworryiftheremovablebaseslipsdownalittlewhenthecakeisturnedover:thecakewillstillstaysuspendedbecausethetinisnotgreased.Setasideforatleast1hour,inits

tin,untilcompletelycool.Reducetheoventemperatureto120°C/100°CFan/GasMark½.

6Tomaketheicing,placethesiftedicingsugarintoabowlandaddthe60mlpineapplejuice.Stirwithawoodenspoonuntilsmoothandsetaside.

7Tomakethepineappleflowers,placethesugarandwaterinasmallsaucepanoveramediumheatandheatgentlyuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Increasetheheattohigh,boilhardfor30seconds,thenremovefromtheheat.Lightlybrushbothsidesofthepineapplesliceswiththewarmsyrup,thenlaythemonawirerackplacedoveraparchment-linedbakingtray.Placethetrayintheovenandbakefor1–2hours(thecookingtimevarieshugelydependingonhowripethepineappleis),untiltheslicesaregoldenandcompletelydrybutstillhavesomemalleability.

8Removethetraysfromtheovenandimmediatelyshapethesliceseitheroverthemouldsofaneggcartonorinsidethemouldsofamuffintin,toformlittlecups.Setasidetocoolastheyare–sittingontopoforinsidetheirmoulds–tofirmup.

9Whenthecakeiscooled,turnthetintherightwayroundagainand,usingalongmetalspatula,loosenthecakefromthesidesandbaseofthetin,aswellasthecentraltube(youmightneedalong,thinknifetohelpyouwiththis).Invertthecakebackontoaservingplate.Drizzletheicingoverthetopandsidesandplacethepineappleflowersrandomlyalloverthecake.Sprinklewithstaraniseandserve.

It’sveryimportanttousea23or24cmchiffoncaketinwitharemovablebase,andwhichisnotnon-stick.Doublenegativesdofunnythingstothebrain,weknow,butit’sareallyvitalpoint.Oncethecakecomesoutoftheoven,thetinisturnedupsidedownbeforethecakeislefttocool.Ifyouhaveanon-sticktin,thecakewillslipdownontothesurfaceofthecounter;youwantthecaketobestucktothetin,elevatedbythelittlelegsofthechiffontin.Thecakewillseepdownalittletowardsthesurface–that’sfine:itjustneedstonotbetouchingit.Ifyourtindoesnothavelittlelegs,raiseitoffthesurfaceusingafewcupstoresttheedgeofthetinon.So,toclarify:don’tstartwithanon-sticktin(startwithanotnon-stickone!)anddon’tgreaseit.It’scrucialforthesuccessofthecake.

Theflowerscanbemadeadayinadvanceandkeptinacool,dryplaceuntilneeded:don’tstoretheminanairtightcontainerortheywillgosoft.

Un-iced,thecakewillkeepforupto3days,wrappedinfoilorinaverylargeairtightcontainer.Onceiced,it’sbesteatenonthesameday.

Pineappleandstaranisechiffoncake

Coffeeandcardamompoundcake

Thesenexttwo(companion)recipesareadaptedfromthe‘PerfectPoundCake’recipeinRoseLevyBeranbaum’sCakeBible.Asitreallyisaperfectpoundcake–moistandclose-textured–it’shardtodoanythingotherthanfollowRose’sexactmethod.Wedivergeononepoint,though:whileRosesaysthatthecakedoesn’tworkinalargetin,wefindthatbakingitinabundttin–wherethetubeinthemiddleenablestheheattodistributeevenlythroughthecakeasitbakes–worksjustfine.

We’vegonefortwoversionshere:thisonehasamore‘adult’flavour,withthecoffeeandcardamom,whiletheother,basedontheNeapolitanicecreamtheme,ismorefamily-friendly.

Thisisbestservedoncecompletelycool,toallowtheflavourstodevelop.Inanidealworldyou’dmakeitinthemorningandserveitaboutsixoreighthoursafterbaking.Weknowthatthedifferencebetweentheidealandtherealityisoftengreat,however,sodon’tlosesleepoverafewhourshereandthere.

SERVES10–12

90mlfull-fatmilk,atroomtemperature,plusanextra20mlforthecoffee6largeeggs,atroomtemperature

2tspvanillaextract200gself-raisingflour100gplainflour,plusextrafordusting½tspsalt300gcastersugar300gunsaltedbutter,softbutnotoily,diced,plusextraforgreasing1½tspfreshlyground

cardamom(seehere)1½tbspinstantcoffeegranules2tspDutch-processedcocoapowder

ICING1½tbspinstantcoffeegranules45mlfull-fatmilk,warmed240gicingsugar,sifted

30gunsaltedbutter,softened

1Preheattheovento195°C/175°CFan/GasMark5.Greaseandfloura23cmbundttinandsetaside.

2Forthecake,placethemilk,eggsandvanillaextractinamediumbowlandlightlywhisk,justtocombine.

3Siftthefloursandsaltdirectlyintothebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace,thenaddthesugarandmixonalowspeedfor30seconds.Addthebutterandhalfoftheeggmixtureandcontinuetomixuntilthedryingredientsareincorporated.Increasethespeedtomediumandbeatfor1minute.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thengraduallyaddtheremainingeggmixture,intwobatches,makingsurethefirstbatchisfullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext.Don’tworryifyourbatterlooksslightlysplit:it’sduetothelargeproportionofeggsinthemix,butitwon’taffectthefinalresult.

4Scrapedownthesidesofthebowlanddividethemixturebetweentwobowls.Addthegroundcardamomtoonebowlandfoldtocombine.Warmtheextra20mlofmilkinasmallsaucepan,thenplaceinasmallbowlwiththecoffeegranulesandcocoapowder.Stiruntilthecoffeedissolvesandtheconsistencyisthatofthickbutpourablemilk.Combinethiswiththecakemixtureinthesecondbowl.

5Spoonthetwomixturesintothepreparedtininfouralternateblocks,twoofeachcolour,thenuseaskewerorsmallknifetomakeazigzag-shapedswirloncethroughthemix,tocreateamarbleeffect.Donotbetemptedtooverdotheswirlingasyouwilllosetheeffectofthemarbling.

6Bakefor40–45minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandsetasidefor10minutes.Thecaketendstodomeintheoven,soifthishappensandyouwantaperfectlyflatbase(thetopwillbecomethebottomonceit’sinverted),justsliceoffthetoptoflattenitoutbeforeturningthecakeoutontoawireracktocoolcompletely.

7Tomaketheicing,combinethecoffeeandwarmmilkinasmallmixingbowl.Addtheicingsugartothecoffeemixture,togetherwiththesoftbutter.Whisk

untilsmoothandthick,thenspoonalloverthecooledcake,sothatitdripsunevenlydownthesides.Allowtheicingtosetslightlybeforeserving.

Un-iced,thecakewillkeepatroomtemperatureforupto3days,wrappedinclingfilm.Itcanalsobefrozenforupto3months.Onceiced,it’sbesteatenonthesameday.

Coffeeandcardamompoundcakeandneapolitanpoundcake(forthefamily)

Neapolitanpoundcake(forthefamily)

We’vegonefortheclassicNeapolitancolours–brown,whiteandpink–withapinkicing.It’sbasicallyheavenforthebirthdaypartyofasix-year-old,butaplainwhiteorcreamicingalsoworkswellifyouwanttotonedownthepinkvibe.

Thedegreeofpinkness(orany-colour-ness)willvarydependingonthebrandoffoodcolouringyouchoose.You’llneedanythingfromawholetube(ifyouhaveaverybasicliquidgel)to1/8teaspoon(ifyouarestartingwithconcentratedgel).Alwaysstartwithalittleandtakeitfromthere:it’smucheasiertokeepadding,ratherthantryingtotakeaway(whichwouldbeimpossible!).

SERVES10

90mlfull-fatmilk,atroomtemperature,plusanextra20mlforthecocoapaste6largeeggs,atroomtemperature

1tbspvanillaextract200gself-raisingflour100gplainflour,plusextrafordusting½tspsalt300gcastersugar300gunsaltedbutter,softbutnotoily,diced,plusextraforgreasing2tbspDutch-processed

cocoapowderadroportwoofpinkoranyotherfoodcolouring(preferablygelorpaste)ICING45mlfull-fatmilk,warmed260gicingsugar,sifted30gunsaltedbutter,soft½tspvanillaextractadroportwoofpinkfoodcolouring(preferablygelorpaste)

1Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Greaseandfloura23cmbundttinandsetaside.

2Forthecake,placethemilk,eggsandvanillaextractinamediumbowlandlightlywhisk,justtocombine.

3Siftthefloursandsaltdirectlyintothebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace,thenaddthesugarandmixonalowspeedfor30seconds.Addthebutterandhalfoftheeggmixtureandcontinuetomixuntilthedryingredientsareincorporated.Increasethespeedtomediumandbeatfor1minute.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thengraduallyaddtheremainingeggmixture,intwobatches,makingsurethefirstbatchisfullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thendividethebatterequallybetweenthreeseparatesmallbowls.

4Warmtheextra20mlmilkinasmallsaucepan,thenplaceinasmallbowlwiththecocoapowder.Stirtoformasmoothandverythickpaste,thencombinethisintooneofthebowlsofcakebatterandsetaside.Tintthesecondbowlofcakebatterwiththepinkfoodcolouring,addingadroportwoatatimeuntilitisthecolouryouwant.Leavethethirdandremainingbowlofbatterasitis.

5Spoonthethreemixturesintothepreparedtininsixalternateblocks,twoofeachcolour,thenuseaskewerorsmallknifetomakeazigzag-shapedswirloncethroughthemix,tocreateamarbleeffect.Don’tbetemptedtooverdotheswirlingasyouwilllosetheeffectofthemarbling.

6Bakefor40–45minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandsetasidefor10minutes(thecakewillstarttoshrinkfromthesidesonlyafterit’sremovedfromtheoven).Thecaketendstodomeintheoven,soifthishappensandyouwantaperfectlyflatbase(thetopwillbecomethebottomonceit’sinverted),justsliceoffthetoptoflattenitoutbeforeturningthecakeoutontoawireracktocoolcompletely.

7Tomaketheicing,combinethewarmmilkandicingsugarinasmallmixingbowl.Addthebutterandvanillaandwhiskuntilsmooth,thenaddadroportwoofpinkfoodcolouring(dependingonhowbrightyouwanttogo)andmixwell.Spoonalloverthecooledcake,sothatitdripsunevenlydownthesides.Allowtheicingtosetforafewminutesbeforeserving.

Un-iced,thecakewillkeepatroomtemperatureforupto3days,wrappedinclingfilm.Itcanalsobefrozenforupto3months.Onceiced,it’sbesteatenonthesameday.

Tessa’sspicecake

Thisisasimplespicedpoundcake,butonethatisseriouslymoist,withalovelyfinecrumb.There’senoughgoingon,spice-wise,thatwe’verestrainedourselveswhenitcomestoanicingandleftitunadorned.Theloaf’sstraightsidesandthesprinkleoficingsugar–allpartofaccentuatingitssimplicity–makeaslicetheperfectaccompanimenttoacupoftea.

MixedspiceisnothardtogetholdofintheUK,butpumpkinspiceorquatreépicesarebothgoodsubstitutes,ifyou’relookingforanalternative.Quatreépicesisalittlebithotterandlesssweetthantheothers,soyoumightwanttouseapinchless.Tessa’soriginalrecipecalledforChinesefive-spicepowder,whichisevenstrongerandmoresavourythanthequatreépices.Basically,thecakeissomethingofablankcanvas,thereforyoutoheightenorsoftenthespicesasyoulike.

WiththankstoTessaFaulknerforthisrecipe.

SERVES10–12

180gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature160gsoftdarkbrownsugar160gsoftlightbrownsugarfinelygratedzestof1largeorange(1tbsp)3largeeggs120gsouredcream1tbspvanillaextract1tspmixedspice(orquatreépices)225gplainflour¾tspsalt½tspbicarbonateofsoda1tspmaltvinegar(orapplecidervinegar)icingsugar,fordusting

1Preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.Greasearegular900gloaftinandlinewithbakingparchment,thensetaside.

2Placethebutter,brownsugarsandorangezestinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Creamuntillightenedandsmoothbutnottoofluffy:youdon’twanttoaeratethecaketoomuch.

3Inaseparatebowl,whisktogethertheeggsbyhand.Addthesouredcreamandvanillaandwhiskagainuntilsmooth.

4Siftthemixedspice,flourandsalttogetherintoaseparatebowlandsetaside.

5Inalternatebatches,andwiththemachineonamedium-lowspeed,addathirdoftheeggandsouredcreammixturetothecreamedmix,followedbyathirdofthesifteddryingredients.Continuewiththesecondandthirdbatch,continuingtomixuntilcombined.Stirthebicarbonateofsodawiththevinegarinasmallbowl:itwillfizzupalittle,butthat’sfine.Addthistothemixtureandassoonaseverythingiscombined,turnoffthemachine.Don’tworryifthemixturestartstosplitatthispoint:itwillstillcookupwell.Scrapethemixtureintotheloaftinandbakefor50–55minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.

6Removethecakefromtheovenontoawirerackforabout15minutestocoolslightlybeforeinvertingontoacakeplate.Setasideuntilcompletelycool,thendustwithicingsugar.Thiscakeisbestservedatroomtemperature,astheflavourofthespicebecomesmorepronounced.

Thecakewillkeepwellforupto5daysinasealedcontainer.

Tessa’sspicecake

Lemonandpoppyseedcake(NationalTrustversion)

HoweverambitiousanddiscerningHelen’spalate,thislightlemoncakeistheoneshe’dtakewithhertoadesertislandifshecouldonlychooseone.It’smuchsimplerthanmanyoftheothercakessheloves,butit’stheoneshereturnstoagainandagain.There’ssomethingsafeandreassuringaboutitwhichwouldcomfortasthewavescamecrashingdownaroundtheisland.

It’swhywe’vecalledit,affectionately,our‘NationalTrust’cake.Howeverunpredictabletheweather,howeverdisastroustheouting,howevermuchfunhasnotreallybeenhadonthefamilydayout,there’ssomethingwonderfullyreassuringaboutthepredictabilityofthecakeyou’llhaveinthecafé,alongwithacupoftea.It’soneoflife’sgreatcertainties.

SERVES8(USINGAREGULARLOAFTIN)OR9(USINGMINI-LOAFTINS)

3largeeggs225gcastersugar120mldoublecream75gunsaltedbutter,cubed,plusextraforgreasing10gpoppyseedsfinelygratedzestof3lemons(1tbsp)170gplainflour1¼tspbakingpowder¼tspsalt

GLAZE100gicingsugar,sifted2tbsplemonjuice

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Greasetheloaftinandlinewithbakingparchment,thensetaside.

2Placetheeggsandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerandwhiskonamedium-highspeedforabout2minutes,untilpaleandfrothy.Addthecreamandcontinuetowhiskforabout2minutes,untilthemixturehascombined,thickenedalittleandturnedpale.

3Inthemeantime,meltthebutterinasmallsaucepanoveralowheat,addthepoppyseedsandlemonzestandsetaside.

4Sifttheflour,bakingpowderandsalttogetherintoabowl,thenusearubberspatulatofoldthisintotheeggmixturebeforefoldingthroughthebutter,poppyseedsandzest.

5Spoonthemixtureintothecaketinsothatitrisesthree-quartersofthewayupthesides.Placethetinonabakingtrayandcookforabout50minutesoruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.

6Maketheglazebywhiskingtheicingsugarwiththelemonjuiceinabowl.Pourthisoverthetopofthecakeassoonasitcomesoutoftheoven,spreadingitoverthetopsothatitsinksinandcreatesaniceglaze.Setasidetocoolfor30minutesbeforeremovingfromthetin.Leavetocometoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

Youcanmakethisinaregular900gloaftin,aswedohere,or,ifyouhavethem,ninemini-loaftins(9x6x4cm)alsoworkwell.Ifyouaremakingthemini-loaves,you’lljustneedtoreducethebakingtimeto25minutes.

Thiswillkeepfor3daysinanairtightcontainer.

Lemonandpoppyseedcake(NationalTrustversion)

Belinda’sflourlesscoconutandchocolatecake

Everymonthorsowegatherinthetestkitchenwithourpastrychefs.It’sanopenforum,withthechefspresentingtheirofferings,whichwethentasteanddiscuss.It’salwaysexciting,asideasareconstantlybeingimprovedandimplemented.Thiscakewasaproductofoneofthosemeetings,broughttothetablebyFranceskaVenzon,herselfinspiredbyBelindaJeffery’sversionofthecake.We’veplayedaroundwiththeshape–bakingitinaloaftin–andaddedachocolateganache,butthebaseisallBelinda’s.

There’ssomethingaboutacakeshowcasingitsflourless-nessorgluten-freenaturewhichcanoftenmakeitsoundalittlebitworthy.Unfairlyso,inacaselikethis,wherethefeelingofeatingitistheveryoppositeof‘free-from’:it’sutterlybutteryanddecadent.

SERVES8

200gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,plusextraforgreasing250gcastersugar60gdesiccatedcoconutscrapedseedsof1vanillapod¼tspsalt4largeeggs180ggroundalmonds

WATERGANACHE60gcookingchocolate(70%cocoasolids),roughlychoppedinto1cmpieces25gcastersugar25gliquidglucose3tbspwaterscrapedseedsof¼vanillapod25gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cutinto2cmcubes

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Greasethebaseandsidesofthe900gloaftinor23cmroundspringformtinandlinewithbakingparchment,

thensetaside.

2Placethebutter,sugar,desiccatedcoconut,vanillaandsaltinanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeed,untilpaleandfluffy:about3minutes.Addtheeggs,oneatatime,beatingwellaftereachaddition.Reducethespeedtolow,addthegroundalmondsandmixuntiljustcombined.

3Scrapethemixtureintothecaketinandbakeforeither40minutesifusingtheloaftin,or50minutesifusingtheroundtin,oruntilthecakeisgoldenbrownontopandaskewerinsertedintothemiddlecomesoutclean.Removethecakefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolinthetinbeforeinvertingontoaservingplate.Setasideuntilcompletelycool.

4Makethewaterganachewhenyouarereadytoserve.Placethechocolateinamediumbowlandsetaside.Putthesugarandglucoseinasmallsaucepanandplaceoveramedium-lowheat.Stirtocombineand,whenthesugarhasmelted,increasetheheattomediumandbringtotheboil,stirringgentlyfromtimetotime.Continuetoboilforabout7minutes,untilthecolourisapaleamber.Removefromtheheatandcarefullypourinthewater.Don’tworryifthemixseizes:justreturnthepantotheheat,addthescrapedvanillaseedsandstirgentlyandcontinuouslyuntilitreturnstotheboilandthesugarhasmeltedagain.Removefromtheheatandwaitforaminutebeforepouringthewater-carameloverthechocolate.Allowtostandforabout3minutes,thenwhisktocombine.Addthebutter,acoupleofcubesatatime,whiskingaftereachaddition.Continueuntilallthebutterhasbeenadded,whiskingtocombineuntiltheconsistencyisthatofgoldensyrup.

5Spreadtheganacheoverthetopofthecake,lettingalittlerundownthesides.

Thiscaneitherbemadeinaregular900gloaftinorina23cmroundspringformtin.

Thiswillkeepwellforupto5daysinanairtightcontainer.Itcanbeeatenonthedayofmaking,butwethinkittastesevenbetterservedatroomtemperaturethefollowingday.

Belinda’sflourlesscoconutandchocolatecake

Celebrationcake

Allcakesarecauseforacertaindegreeofcelebration,butcertaincelebrationsarecauseforacakewithlayers!Thisisthecakewemakeforourcustomers’bigparties:birthdayparties,weddingcelebrations,anniversaries,andallsorts.It’senormous,it’sdelicious,andit’sgreatforpartiesasyouprepareeverythingwellinadvance.It’salso,incidentally,gluten-free,heldtogethernotbyflour,notevenbygroundnuts,butbythemagicofbeateneggwhites,sabayonandthechillingeffectofthefreezer.

Decorateitasyoulike:wetendtogoforadegreeofrestraintinourpresentation,smoothingoutthetoplayeroficingwithapaletteknifeandaddingalittlebitoficing-sugar-dustedfruittoeachcornerofthecake.It’sabitofablankcanvasforyoutodowhatyoulikewith,though:morefruitorsomenuts,forexample,alwayslookgood.

SERVES20–25(IT’SNOTCALLEDACELEBRATIONCAKEFORNOTHING!)

440gdarkcookingchocolate(70%cocoasolids),brokeninto2cmpieces250geggyolks(from12or13largeeggs)

440gcastersugar400geggwhites(from10largeeggs)1tbspbrandy500mldoublecream200gblueberries,plusanextra8togarnish200gblackberries,plusanextra12togarnish200gstrawberries,hulledandthinlyslicedlengthways,plusafewextraslicestogarnish200g

raspberries,plusanextra8togarnishicingsugar,fordusting(optional)

GANACHE300gwhitechocolate,brokeninto2cmpieces300mldoublecream

1Preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.Greasethree35x25cmSwissrolltraysandlinewithbakingparchment(orjustone,seeKitNote).

2Tomakethecake,placethechocolateinalargeheatproofbowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater,makingsurethebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewater.Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted,thenremovefromtheheatandsetasidetocoolslightly.

3Placetheeggyolksandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Mixforabout3minutes,untilthickandpale,thengentlyfoldintothemeltedchocolate.Stiruntilalmostcombinedandsetaside.

4Placetheeggwhitesinacleanbowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Beatonahighspeed,untilsoftpeaksform,thengentlyfoldintothechocolate.Lastly,foldthroughthebrandy,thendividethemixbetweenthethreeSwissrolltins(orpourathirdofthemixintoyouronetray,ifyou’recookinginthreebatches).Useaspatulatoevenoutthetop(s)andplaceintheoven.Bakefor15minutes,untilfirmtotouchandaskewerinsertedintothespongecomesoutclean.Setasidetocool.

5Onceallthecakesarecooled,placeabakingtrayorchoppingboard(thatfitsinyourfreezerandwhichyouwon’tmindbeingwithoutfor24hours)overoneofthetraysandflipthewholethingover,sotheboardisnowsittingunderneaththecake.Removethetrayandthepaper–dothiscarefully,topreventthecakestickingtothepaperandtearing–andplaceacleansheetofbakingparchmentontopofthecake.Flipthesecondlayerofcakesothatitissittingontopofthefirst,andthenagain,carefullyremovethepaperbeforereplacingitwithacleanlayerofparchment.Repeatwiththethirdlayer,thenwrapthewholething–bakingtrayorchoppingboardandall–firmlyinclingfilm.Freezeforatleast24hours.

6Tomaketheganache,placethewhitechocolateinamediumbowlandsetaside.Putthecreamintoamedium,heavy-based,saucepanandplaceoveramedium-lowheat.Cookuntiljuststartingtosimmer,thenpouroverthechocolate.Allowtositfor3minutes,forthechocolatetosoften,thengentlystiruntilthechocolateismeltedandfullycombined.Coverwithclingfilmandrefrigerateovernight(orupto3days).

7Assemblethecakeonthedayitisgoingtobeeaten.Placetheganacheinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Add500mlofdoublecreamandwhiponamedium-highspeedforabout30seconds,untilthickandonlyjustpourable:itshouldn’tgoquiteasfaraswhippedcream,asitwillfirmupasyouspreadit.Keepacloseeyeonit,asitcanover-whipveryquickly.

8Mixtheberries,apartfromthoseforthegarnish,inalargebowlandsetaside.

9Justbeforeassemblingthecake–youneedtodothisattheverylastminuteasthelayersneedtobefrozenstifftoworkwith–removethelayersfromthefreezer.IfyouhaveworkedwithSwissrolltrayswithslightlydifferentdimensions,nowisthetimetotrimthemsothattheyareallthesamesize.Dothisonelayeratatime(ratherthanattemptingtocutthemallatonce,stackedontopofoneanother).

10Placeonelayerofspongeonyourservingplatterandspreadathirdoftheganache-creamontop,takingitrightuptotheedges.Scatterhalftheberriesontop,againtakingthemrighttotheedgesofthecake.Placethesecondlayerofspongeontopofthefirstandrepeatwiththecreamandfruit.Topthecakewiththefinallayerofspongeandspreadtheremainingcreamontop,eithersmoothedoutwithapaletteknifeorwithawavypattern.Scatterthefruitreservedforgarnishineachcornerofthecakeanddustthefruitlightlywithicingsugar,ifusing.Fromhereyoucaneitheraddsomemoregarnish,ifyoulike,orperhapsapipedmessageofcelebrationontopoftheicing.

Weusethree35x25cmSwissrolltinsforthiscake,butit’sfinetouseone:you’lljustneedtobakethespongelayerinthreeseparatebatches–themixtureishappytositaroundandwait.IfyouhavethreeSwissrolltinswithslightlydifferentdimensions,thisisalsofine:theindividuallayerscanbetrimmedtosizeoncethey’reoutofthefreezer.

Boththespongeandganacheneedtobemadeatleastadayaheadforthespongetofreezeandtheganachetoset.Thespongecanbemadeandfrozenupto2weeksbeforeassembling;theganacheisfineforupto3daysinthefridge,thengentlywarmedoverapotofsimmeringwatertosoftenbeforeusing.

Ideally,thecakeshouldbeeatenonthedayitisassembled.Leftoversaredeliciousthenextday:theyjustdon’tlookallthatgreat.Ifassemblingafewhoursinadvance,keepthecakeinthefridgeandbringitouthalfanhourbeforeserving,tocometoroomtemperature.

Celebrationcake

Cheesecakes

Weoftentalkaboutbreakingrecipesdowntotheircomponentpartstohelpwithgettingorganizedandgettingahead.Nowhereisthismoreapplicablethaninthemakingofcheesecakes,whoselayersaresocompletelydistinct:thebase(whichcanalwaysbemadewellinadvance),thefilling(whichoftenneedstobemadeinadvancesothatithastimetochillandset),andthetopping(whichistheonethingthatusuallyhastobekeptontheto-dolistuntilthedayofserving).Withinthesethreeparallelobjectivesthere’salotofroomforplay.

THEBASE›Mostofourcheesecakebasesarebiscuit-basedandcrunchy:thecontrastbetweenthisandthechilled,set,creamyfillingisalwaysawinningformula.Acoupleofthecakesfollowadifferentpath,however:theRoastedStrawberryandLimeCheesecake(seehere)issponge-softandtheBakedRicottaandHazelnutCheesecake(seehere)hasnobaseatall.

THEFILLING›Thefillingforallcheesecakeswillalwaysbe,well,rich.Creamcheeseoftenplaysastarringrole,ofcourse,butsurpriseyourselfwithourBakedRicottaandHazelnutCheesecake(seehere).Itisverydifferent–completelyopposite,infact–towhatyoumightbeexpecting,servedwarmfromtheovenratherthansetandchilledfromthefridge.

THETOPPING›Thisiswhereyoucanreallygototown.We’vehadourownfunwithallsortsofoptions:crunchycoconut,meringuekisses,andagreatbigbunchoffruitoptions–cranberrycompote,bakedapricots,roastedstrawberriesandcaramelizedpineapple–tocutthroughtherichnessofthecake.Playaroundandtrythingsouthere:yourcakeswillworkwithallsortsofalternatives.

OURTINS,TIPSANDTRICKS›Weoftenprefertomakelotsofsmallcheesecakesratherthanonelargeone.Theinherentdecadenceofcheesecakeissomehowheightenedfurtherwhenyouhaveanentire(mini)caketoyourself.TomakethePassionfruitCheesecakewithSpicedPineapple(seehere),theLimeMeringueCheesecakes(seehere)andtheBakedRicottaandHazelnutCheesecake(seehere),you’llneedasetof8cmround,bottomlessrings.Amuffintinwillalsoworkforthericottacakes,ifyouarelookingforanalternative.Otherwise,a23cmroundspringformcaketin(oranytinwitharemovablebase)isusedformanyofthelargercakes.

Timing-wise,don’tcutcorners.Cheesecakesneedtobakeforalongtimeinalowoven.Theyneedalongtimetocoolandtheyoftenneedalongtimetoset.Thereasonthey’resopreciousisthattheydon’trespondwelltoswiftchangesintemperature.Ifyouweretotryandspeedupthecoolingprocessbytakingthecheesecakeoutoftheovenandtransferringittothefridge,forexample,itwouldquiteliterallyfallapartattheseamsanddevelopabigcrack.Thisneednotbeadisaster–itwon’taffectthetasteandyoucanoftencoverthecrackwithatopping–butit’salwayspleasingtobakeacrack-freecake.Startwithroomtemperatureingredientsandfollowourcake-coolinginstructionsexactly:weleavethecakeintheovenonceit’sbaked,proppingtheovendoorslightlyopenwithawoodenspoon.

Althoughalotofpeoplebaketheircheesecakesinawaterbath(bain-marie)–wheretheindividualcakeorcakessitinalargertray,whichisfilledwithwarmwaterbeforegoingintotheoven–thisisnotatechniquewe’rehugefansof.Therationalebehindthewaterbathisthatbecausethetemperatureofthewater

cannotriseabove100°C,thecheesecakewillcookevenly,resultinginasmooth,creamytexture.Whilethismakessenseintheory,wefindthatitcanberathermessy,andsometimesevendangerous(trycarryingatrayfullofhotwateracrossthekitchenanddiscovering–doh!–you’veforgottentoleavetheovendooropen).Andhowevermuchwe’vemummifiedourtinsinfoil,wealsofindthat,moreoftenthannot,thewaterwillsomehowseepinandresultinadisappointinglysoggycrust.Thelong,slowbakeandthelong,slowcoolingperiodisthemethodweprefer.

RecipeListLimemeringuecheesecakes

WhitechocolatecheesecakewithcranberrycompotePassionfruitcheesecakewithspicedpineapple

BakedricottaandhazelnutcheesecakeFig,orangeandmascarponecheesecakeChocolatebananaripplecheesecakeApricotandAmarettocheesecake

Roastedstrawberryandlimecheesecake

LimemeringuecheesecakesPartlime-meringue-pie,partclassic-cheesecake,thesemakeforanimpressivedessert.It’sonetosaveforaspecialoccasion–thereisafairbitofwork–but,aswithlotsofcakeswithmorethanonelayer,theyarenotquiteasepicafeatastheyfirstseem.Beingabletomaketwooutofthethreelayersthedaybeforeyouareserving–thebaselayerandthecheesecake–helps,leavingjustthemeringuetomakeonthedayitself.Decadentandrich,butlightintexture,theseareabighitwithcitrusfans.

WeuseaSwissmeringueforthesecheesecakes(asopposedtoFrenchorItalianmeringue,seehere),sothetextureischewyandmarshmallow-like.Beyondtheheattreatmenttheeggwhitesandsugarreceivebeforetheyarewhipped,there’snoextrabaking,soit’simportanttoensuretheyareverywarm,ideallyreachingthetemperatureof71°Conasugarthermometer.

MAKES8

BASE60gBrazilnuts140gdigestivebiscuits,roughlybroken20gdesiccatedcoconut70gunsaltedbutter,melted,plusextraforgreasingFILLING280gcreamcheese1x410gtincondensedmilk120geggyolks(from6largeeggs)200mlfreshlysqueezedlimejuice(you’llneedthezestfrom2ofthelimesbeforejuicing)

finelygratedzestof2limes(2tsp)

TOPPING(OPTIONAL)15gcoconutchips25gBrazilnuts,thinlysliced(don’tworryiftheybreakupabitwhensliced:they’llstillbe

fine)20gsoftdarkbrownsugar½tsplimejuice

MERINGUE100geggwhites(fromabout2½largeeggs)180gcastersugar

1/8tspsalt

1Preheattheovento170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.Lightlygreasethesidesofeightindividual8cmwidecakerings,andlinethesideswithbakingparchment–youwantthepapertorise4cmabovethetopofthering–thenplaceonalargebakingtraywhichisalsolinedwithbakingparchment.

2Forthebase,spreadtheBrazilnutsoutonabakingtrayandroastforabout12minutes,untillightlygolden.Setasidetocoolbeforeplacinginthesmallbowlofafoodprocessor.Blitzuntilfinelychopped,thenaddthebiscuitstothefoodprocessor.Blitztoformfinecrumbsandtipintoasmallbowl.Addthecoconutandmeltedbutteranduseyourhandstomixwell.Place2heapedtablespoonsofcrumbsinthebaseofeachring,usingyourhandstopressthemintothebase.Evenoutthecrustwiththebackofaspoonorthebaseofaglassandsetasideinthefridge.

3Tomakethefilling,placethecreamcheeseinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Mixonamedium-lowspeeduntilcreamy,thenaddthecondensedmilkandeggyolks.Continuetomixuntilsmooth,scrapingdownthesidesoccasionally,beforeaddingthelimejuice.Mixtoincorporate,thenstrainthemixtureintoalargejug.Addthelimezestandpourthemixtureintothepreparedringssothatitrisesthree-quartersofthewayupthesides.

4Bakefor20minutes,untilthecheesecakeshavejustset.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolcompletelybeforecoveringlightlywithclingfilmandplacinginthefridgeforatleast4hoursorovernight.

5Tomakethetopping,putthecoconutandBrazilnutsintoasmallsaucepanandplaceoveramediumheat.Toastforabout3minutes,stirringfrequently,untilalightgoldenbrown.Addthesugarandlimejuiceandcookfor1minute,untilmeltedandwellcombined.Tipontoaparchment-linedtrayandsetasidetocool.

6Makethemeringueonthedayofserving.Usingapanlargeenoughtoallowthebowlofyourelectricmixertositontop,pourenoughwaterintothepansothatitrisesaquarterofthewayupthesides.Bringtotheboil.Placetheegg

whites,sugarandsaltinthebowloftheelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplaceandwhisktocombine.Reducetheheatsothatthewaterisjustsimmering,thenplacethebowlonthepan,makingsurethewaterdoesn’ttouchthebaseofthebowl.Whisktheeggscontinuouslyfor5minutesbyhand,untiltheyareverywarm(youwanttheeggstoreachatemperatureof71°Conathermometer–seeintroduction),thentransferbacktotheelectricmixer.Whiskforabout5minutesonahighspeed,untilthemeringueisstiffandcool.Transferthemeringuetoapipingbagfittedwitha1cmtip.

7Carefullyremovetheringsandpapercollarsfromthecheesecakes,thenpipemeringue‘kisses’ontop.Youwillhavemoremeringuetoplaywiththanyouneedhere,butit’sbettertohavespare,inthisinstance,thangowithoutyourkisses.

8Usingablowtorch,heatthemeringuesothatpartsofitturnagoldenbrown.Alternatively,placethetrayofcheesecakesunderahotgrillforabout1–2minutes:you’llneedtowatchthemconstantlytomakesuretheydon’tburn.Sprinkleoverthecoconuttopping–youmighthaveacoupleoftablespoonsleftovertosnackon–andserve.

Inadditiontothesugarthermometer,youwouldideallyuseablowtorchtobrownthemeringue,asthisproducesthebestresults.Ifyoudon’thaveone,placethecakesunderagrilluntilbrowned.Weliketomaketheseasindividualcakes,in8cmroundcakerings;slightlysmallerringsarefineifthat’swhatyouhave(you’lljustmakeanextracakeasaresult),butdon’tbetemptedtouselargerrings:partoftheattractivenessofthesecakesistheirheight,andyouwilllosethisiftheyaretoowide.Youwillalsoneedapipingbagwitha1cmtipforpipingthemeringue‘kisses’.

Thebasecanbemadeadayinadvanceandstoredinthefridge.Thecheesecakes(withoutthemeringuetopping)canbemadeadayinadvanceandrefrigeratedovernight.Thenuttoppingcanbemadeupto5daysinadvanceandstoredinanairtightcontainer.

Oncethemeringueshavebeenbrowned,theyarebesteatenwithin3or4hours.Anyleftovercakescanbekeptinthefridgeforaday:themeringuewillhavesoftened,butthey’llstilltastegood.

Limemeringuecheesecakes

WhitechocolatecheesecakewithcranberrycompoteAllthesweetnesscomesfromthewhitechocolatehere,sousethebest-qualitychocolateyoucanfind:you’llreallytastethedifference.Thecranberrycompote,spoonedontop,providesasharpandwelcomecounterpoint,butthecakealsoworkswithoutitifyouarelookingforashortcut.Somefreshberriesservedalongside–strawberries,raspberriesorblackberries–wouldbeperfect.

SERVES10–12

BASE70gwholerawalmonds,skinon180gdigestivebiscuits100gunsaltedbutter,melted,plusextraforgreasingFILLING600ggood-qualitywhitechocolate:500groughlybroken;100gchoppedinto1cmpieces(or

usewhitechocolatechips)500gcreamcheese4largeeggs,lightlybeaten300gsouredcreamfinelygratedzestof1smallorange(1tsp)scrapedseedsof½vanillapod

CRANBERRYCOMPOTE150gfresh(orfrozenanddefrosted)raspberries180gfresh(orfrozenanddefrosted)

cranberries110gcastersugar65mlorangejuice

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Lightlygreasethebaseandsidesofa23cmroundspringformtinandlinewithbakingparchment.

2Spreadthealmondsoutonabakingtrayandroastfor10minutes,thensetasidetocool.Transfertoafoodprocessorandpulsejustafewtimes–youwantthealmondstobeinroughly0.5cmpiecesratherthanturningtopowder–thentransfertoaseparatebowl.

3Reducetheoventemperatureto170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.

4Putthedigestivesintoafoodprocessorandblitzuntilfine:youwanttheconsistencytobethatofdriedbreadcrumbs.Addtothebowlofalmonds,alongwiththemeltedbutter,anduseyourhandsorawoodenspoontocombine.Spoonthecrumbsintothetin,pressingthemfirmlyintothebase.Evenoutthecrustwiththebackofaspoonorthebaseofaglassandsetasideinthefridge.

5Tomakethefilling,placetheroughlybrokenwhitechocolateinaheatproofbowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater(makesurethebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewater),stirringfromtimetotime.Oncethechocolatehasmelted,turnofftheheat,removethebowlfromthepanofhotwaterandsetasidefor5minutestocoolslightly,stirringoccasionally.

6Placethecreamcheeseinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeeduntilsmooth.Reducethespeedtomedium-lowandgraduallyaddtheeggs,followedbythesouredcream,orangezestandvanillaseeds.Addthemeltedchocolate–itshouldbetepidratherthanwarm,asyoudon’twantthewhitechocolatechipstomeltwhentheyareaddedlater–andbeatonamedium-lowspeeduntilcombined.Finally,stirinthefinelychoppedwhitechocolate(orwhitechocolatechips)andpourthemixtureintothechilledbase.Smoothoverthetopandplaceonabakingtray.

7Bakeforabout1hour,oruntilthemiddleofthecheesecakehasaslightwobblewhenyougentlyshakethepan.Turnofftheovenbutleavethecheesecakeinsideforanhour,withtheovendoorproppedopenwithawoodenspoon.Removefromtheovenandcoolcompletelybeforewrappinginclingfilmandchillinginthefridgeforatleast4hours,orpreferablyovernight,untilthecheesecakeiscoldandfirm.

8Forthecompote,placetheraspberriesinthesmallbowlofafoodprocessorandprocesstoformaliquid–don’tuseablenderhereasitwillblitztheseedsaswellasthefruitandgivethepuréeaslightlybittertaste.Passthroughafine-mesh(ormuslin-lined)sievetoremovetheseeds,whichcanbediscarded.Youshouldhavearound75mlofpurée.

9Stirtogetherthecranberries,sugarandorangejuiceinamediumsaucepan.Placeonamedium-lowheatuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Increasetheheatand

gentlyboilfor8–10minutes,untilmostofthecranberrieshaveburstandthemixtureisthick.Removethepanfromtheheatandstirintheraspberrypurée.Transfertoabowl,placesomeclingfilmdirectlyontopofthecompoteandsetasidetocool.Thecompotewillthickentoanalmostjelly-likeconsistencybutwillbreakupreadilywhenstirredbeforeyouspoonitontopofthecake.

10Whenreadytoserve,releasethespringformtinandremovethebakingparchment.Slidethecheesecakeontoaservingplateandspoonoverthecranberrycompote.Useawarmknife(dipthebladeinhotwaterandwipedrybeforeusing)tocutslicesandserveatonce.

Thecompotewillkeepforupto5daysinthefridge,andalsofreezeswell.Thecheesecakemustbemadeatleastthedaybeforeyouplantoserveit,andkeptinthefridge.

Onceassembled,thecakewillkeepwellfor3–4daysinthefridge.

Whitechocolatecheesecakewithcranberrycompote

PassionfruitcheesecakewithspicedpineappleWehaveregularmeetingsatwhichallourpastrychefs–thereareabout15–cometogetherinthetestkitchentosharetheirideas.Everyonearrivesbearingtheirsweetofferings,whicharethenpassedaroundthetableandcloselyscrutinized.ThischeesecakewasbroughttooneofthosemeetingsbyCélineLecoeur:itreceivedunanimouspraisefromeveryoneatthetable.Andourcustomers–whomadeitaninstantbestseller–agreed.

Fordetailsonwheretogetholdofstrainedpassionfruitpulp,seehere.Thealternativeistoscoopoutthepulpofaboutadozenpassionfruit,placeitinafoodprocessorandblitz.Don’tworryaboutthenumerousseedsreleasingtheirbitterflavoursasthey’recrushed:they’resoslipperythattheyjustwhizzaroundandaroundtheprocessorratherthanbreakingdown.

MAKES8(USING8CMRINGS),ORONELARGECAKESERVES10

BASE40gflakedalmonds,lightlycrushedinyourhand130gdigestivebiscuits,roughlybroken½tspgroundcinnamon½tspgroundstaranise(about2wholestaranise,finelygroundinaspicegrinder)80g

unsaltedbutter,melted,plusextraforgreasingFILLING140gstrainedpassionfruitpulp(seehere),ortheblitzedpulpofabout12medium

passionfruit(seeintroduction)750gcreamcheese200gcastersugar80gsouredcream3largeeggs,plus3extralargeeggyolks,lightlywhiskedSPICEDPINEAPPLE1smallpineapple(700g),peeled,coreremovedandfleshcutintoroughly1.5cmcubes¼tsp

groundcinnamon¼tspgroundstaranise(about1wholestaranise,finelygroundinaspicegrinder)½vanilla

pod,slicedinhalflengthwaysandseedsscraped65gcastersugar1tbsplemonjuice1tbspwaterpulpandseedsfrom2mediumpassionfruit

1Preheattheovento170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.Lightlygreasethesidesofeightindividual8cmwidecakerings,andlinethesideswithbakingparchment–youwantthepapertorise1cmabovethetopofthering–thenplaceonalargeparchment-linedbakingtray.Ifusingalargespringformtin,greaseandlinethebaseandsides–again,thepapershouldrise1cmabovethesidesofthetin–placethetinonabakingtrayandsetaside.

2Placethealmondsonaparchment-linedbakingtrayandroastfor6minutes,untilgolden.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocool.

3Forthebase,placethedigestivebiscuitsinafoodprocessorandblitztoformfinecrumbs:theconsistencyshouldbethatofdriedbreadcrumbs.Tipintoamediumbowlandaddthealmonds,groundcinnamonandgroundstaranise.Addthemeltedbutterandstirwelltocombine.Spoonthecrumbsintothetins,usingyourhandstopressthemintothebase.Evenoutthecrustwiththebackofaspoonorthebaseofaglassandsetasideinthefridgeforaround30minutestochill.

4Ifmakingyourownpassionfruitpulp,straintheblitzedpulpthroughafine-mesh(ormuslin-lined)sieve,discardingtheseeds.Youshouldhaveabout140mlofpulp.Setaside.

5Placethecreamcheeseandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamediumspeeduntilsmooth,thenaddthesouredcreamandmixuntiljustcombined.Reducethespeedtomedium-lowand,withthemachinestillrunning,pourinthewhiskedeggsandyolksinasteadystream.Mixthoroughly,thenaddthepassionfruitpulpandgentlycombine.Pourthefillingintothechilledcrumb-linedcaketins:itshouldrisetothetopoftheringsorabout2cmfromthetopifmakingonelargecake.Bakefor25minutes,or55–60minutesifmakingonelargecake,untiltheedgesaresetbutthecentreremainsslightlywobblywhenthetrayisgentlyshaken.Turnofftheovenbutleavethecheesecakesinsidefor30minutes,or1hourforthelargecake,withthedoorproppedopenwithawoodenspoon.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolcompletely,beforewrappingthetrayinclingfilmandrefrigeratingovernight:thecheesecakeisverysoftsowillnotcutwithoutchilling.

6Onthedayofserving,preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Placethepineapplecubesinamediumbowlwiththecinnamon,staraniseandvanillapodandseeds.Tosswellandspreadoutonaparchment-linedtray.Bakeintheovenfor15minutes,untillightlyroasted,thensetaside.

7Tomakethe‘dry’caramel(seehere),placethesugarinamediumsautépanoveramedium-highheat.Itwillseemasthoughnothingishappeninguntilsuddenlyasmallsectionaroundtheedgewillbegintomeltandturnbrown.Itmayevensmokealittle,butdon’tworryanddon’tstir:continuetoheat,tiltingthepanoftenandswirlinggentlysothatthesugarcontinuestomeltandbrownevenlyuntilthecaramelisthecolourofgoldensyrup.Assoonasthecaramelisready,removethepanfromtheheatandcarefullypourinthelemonjuiceandwater.Itwillsplutterandspit,sotakecare.Swirlagainovertheheattomeltthecarameliftheadditionofthelemonjuicehashardenedit.Bringtotheboil,stirandreduceforabout30–60secondstoformathicksyrup,thenaddthepineapplecubes.Stirtocombineandsetasidetocool.

8Whenreadytoserve,runasmallknifearoundthebaseofthetins,releasingthebiscuitbase,andgentlypushthecheesecakesupandoutoftheirmoulds.Removethepaperandtransfertoaservingplatter.Spoonthecaramelizedpineappleandsyrupontothecentreofthecheesecakes,thenspoonthepassionfruitpulpandseedsontopofthat.Serveimmediately.

Weliketomaketheseasindividualcakes,in8cmroundcakerings.Alternatively,youcouldmakeonelargecakeina23cmroundspringformtin.Bakingandrestingtimesintheovenarelistedintherecipeforbothoptions.

Thecheesecakesmustbemadethedaybeforeserving,toallowthefillingtochillandsetovernight(thepineappletoppingisbestmadeandaddedonthedayofserving).

Onceassembled,thecakesarebesteatenonthesameday.Leftoverswillkeepforupto2daysinthefridge;theyjustwon’tlookasperfectasondayone.

Passionfruitcheesecakewithspicedpineapple

BakedricottaandhazelnutcheesecakeUnlikemostothercheesecakes,thisdoesn’tneedtobemadeaheadoftimeinordertochillandset.Infactittastesbestservedalittlewarm.It’snotwhatpeopleexpectfromacheesecake–there’snocrunchybaseandit’sservedwarmfromtheoven–butinItaly,wheretheycertainlyknowhowto‘do’ricotta,nearlyallcheesecakesarelikethis:moreofawarm,moistcake(althoughyoucanserveitfromthefridge,ifyoulike).

WiththankstoLauraJaneStewart,pastrychefatourLedburyshop,forthisrecipe.

MAKES10(USING8CMRINGS),18(USINGAREGULARMUFFINTIN)ORONELARGECAKE

300gblanchedhazelnuts35gplainflour160gchocolate(70%cocoasolids),roughlychopped100ggroundalmonds225gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,roughlycubed,plusextraforgreasing250g

castersugar6largeeggs,whitesandyolksseparated400gricottacheese2tspvanillaextract¼tspsalt

WATERGANACHE100gdarkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),roughlychoppedinto2cmpieces40gcastersugar40gliquidglucose70mlwaterscrapedseedsof¼vanillapod40gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cutinto2cmcubesicingsugar,toserve

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

2Lightlygreasethesidesoftenindividual8cmwidecakerings,andlinethesideswithbakingparchment–youwantthepapertorise2cmabovethetopofthering–thenplaceonalargebakingtraywhichisalsolinedwithbakingparchment.Oncetheringshavebeenfilledwiththecakemixtheycannotbe

moved,soarrangethemonthetrayasyouwantthemtobebaked.Ifusingamuffintin,linethebaseofthemouldswithacircleofbakingparchmentandgreasethesides;ifusingalargespringformtin,greaseandlinethebaseandsides–again,thepapershouldrise2cmabovethesidesofthetin–placethetinonabakingtrayandsetaside.

3Spreadthehazelnutsoutonabakingtrayandroastfor10minutes,untiltheyhavetakenonjustalittlebitofcolour.Removefromtheovenandsetasideuntilcompletelycool(ifyoublitzthemwhentheyarewarm,theywillturntoanoilypaste).Roughlychop50gofthecoolednutsandsettheseaside–theywillbeusedtogarnish–andplacetheremainderinthebowlofafoodprocessor,alongwiththeflour.Blitzuntilfine,thentipintoamediumbowl.Placethechocolateinthefoodprocessor,blitztoformlargecrumbsandaddthesetothehazelnutsandflour.Addthegroundalmonds,mixtogetherandsetaside:thetextureisabitrustichere,whichiswhatyouwant.

4Increasetheoventemperatureto190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.

5Placethebutterandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeedforabout3minutes,untillightandcreamy.Addtheeggyolks,oneatatime,beatingwellaftereachaddition.Reducethespeedtolow,addthechocolate,nutandflourmixandcontinuetomixuntiljustcombined.Removethebowlfromthemachineandstirinthericotta,vanillaandsalt.Transferthecakemixtoaseparatelargebowlandsetaside.

6Washanddrythebowloftheelectricmixerverywellbeforeaddingtheeggwhitestoit.Whiskthewhitesonamedium-highspeeduntilstiff,thenusealargespatulatofoldtheeggwhites,intwoorthreebatches,intothecakemix.Scrapethemixtureintothecaketins,fillingthemtothetopofeachring.Bakefor30–35minutesifyouareusingtheindividualcakerings,20minutesifusingamuffintin,orabout60minutesifmakingitinonelargetin,rotatingthetrayhalfwaythrough,untilgoldenbrownandaskewerinsertedintothemiddlecomesoutmoreorlessclean:itmighthaveafewcrumbsattachedbutshouldnotbewet.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolcompletely.Removethemfromtheirtins,peelawaythepaperandsetaside.Ifyouaremakingonelargecakeanditisabitcrackedontop,don’tworry:rusticisfinehereandthechocolate

ganachewillcoveritcompletely.Tomaketheganache,placethechocolateinamediumbowlandsetaside.Putthesugarandglucoseinasmallsaucepanandplaceoveramedium-lowheat.Stirtocombineand,whenthesugarhasmelted,increasetheheattomediumandbringtotheboil,stirringgentlyfromtimetotime.Continuetoboilforabout5minutes,untilthecolourisapaleamber.Removefromtheheatandcarefullypourinthewater.Don’tworryifthemixseizes:justreturnthepantotheheat,addthescrapedvanillaseedsandstirgentlyandcontinuouslyuntilitreturnstotheboil.Removefromtheheatandwaitforaminutebeforepouringthewater-carameloverthechocolate.Allowtostandfor5minutes,thenwhisktocombine.Addthebutter,acoupleofcubesatatime,whiskingaftereachaddition.Continueuntilallthebutterhasbeenadded,whiskingtocombineuntilthemixissmoothandshiny.Removefromtheheat.

7Dustthecakeswithicingsugar,thenspoonovertheganache,coveringonlyonehalfofthecakeswiththetoppingifyoulike.Lettheganachedripdownthesides.Sprinkleoverthereservedchoppedhazelnutsandserve.

Weliketomaketheseasindividualcakes,in8cmroundcakerings.Alternatively,youcouldusearegularmuffintin,oryoucouldmakeonelargecakeina23cmroundspringformtin.Instructionsforalloptionsarelistedintherecipe.

Theganachecanbemadeinadvanceandkeptatroomtemperatureforupto4days,orinthefridgeforupto2weeks.Ifkeepingitinthefridge,you’llneedtowarmitoverapanofsimmeringwatertoreturnittoaspreadableglaze.

Un-iced,thesewillkeepfor3daysinanairtightcontainerinthefridge.You’llneedtotakethechilloffthem,sotakethemoutofthefridgeagood30minutesorsobeforeserving.Onceiced,theyarebesteatenstraightaway.

Bakedricottaandhazelnutcheesecake

Fig,orangeandmascarponecheesecakeRecipesarelikestories,passedonfromonepersontoanother.Thedetailsandemphaseschange,buttributeshouldalwaysbepaidtotheoriginalsource.Ever-mindfulofpayingtributewhereit’sdue,Helenthoughtshe’dfirstseenaversionofthiscakeyearsagoinanAustralianWomen’sWeeklymagazine.Notcontenttosimplyacknowledgethepublicationandmoveon,HelenboughtnolessthanfiveoldWomen’sWeeklybooksandmagazinesbeforeshefinallytrackeddowntheoldreference.Hattipped,wewerethenhappytotakeholdoftherecipeandre-tellitinourownway.

Thisisarichcheesecake,butonewithalightertexturethanmost,thankstothewhisked-up,air-filledeggwhiteswhicharefoldedthroughthemixjustbeforebaking.Itwillriseupalittlelikeasoufflé,thendeflatewhencool.

Weliketoservethecakeasitis,simpleandunadorned,butyoucanplayaroundwiththedecoration,ifyoulike:finelyjuliennedstripsoforangezestlookgreatontopofthecheesecakeandechothejuicewithin;orifyoucangetholdofanylargefigleaves,thesearealsofuntositthecakeontopofwhenserving.

SERVES12

BASE100gdigestivebiscuits80gwalnuthalves,finelychopped60gunsaltedbutter,melted,plusextraforgreasing250gsoftdriedfigs,toughstalkremoved,

slicedinto0.5cmstrips250mlfreshlysqueezedorangejuice1cinnamonstick1/8tspgroundcloves

FILLING500gcreamcheese500gmascarpone250gcastersugarfinelygratedzestof1largeorange(1tbsp)4largeeggs,whitesandyolksseparated2tspvanillaextract

1Greasethebaseandsidesofa23cmroundspringformtinandlinewithbakingparchment,makingsurethatthepaperrisesatleast4–5cmabovetherim:thecakerisesalotintheoven.

2Forthebase,placethedigestivebiscuitsinafoodprocessorandblitztoformfinecrumbs:theconsistencyshouldbethatofdriedbreadcrumbs.Placeinamediumbowlandaddthewalnutsandmeltedbutter.Useyourhandsoralargespoontocombine:themixtureshouldbetheconsistencyofwetsand.Spoonthecrumbsintothetin,usingyourhandstopressthemintothebase,thenplaceinthefridgeforatleast20minutestofirmup.

3Placethefigs,orangejuice,cinnamonstickandgroundclovesinamediumsaucepanoveramediumheat.Bringtoasimmerandcookfor15–20minutes,untilmostoftheliquidhasevaporatedbutthemixtureisstillmoist.Setasidetocool,removethecinnamonstick,thenspreadoverthebiscuitbase.Returntothefridgewhileyoupreparethefilling.

4Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

5Placethecreamcheeseinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamediumspeedfor1minute,untilsmooth,beforeaddingthemascarpone,sugar,orangezest,eggyolksandvanillaextract.Continuetobeatuntilalltheingredientsareincorporatedandthemixturelookssmoothandcreamy,scrapingdownthepaddleandsidesofthebowlfromtimetotime,ifyouneedto.

6Placetheeggwhitesinaseparatecleanbowlandwhisk(eitherbyhandorwithanelectricwhisk)untilfirmpeaksform.Foldathirdintothecreamcheesemixture,followedbytheremainingtwo-thirds,thenpourthefillingoverthechilledfigandbiscuitbase.

7Placeonabakingtrayandbakefor75–80minutes,untilthecheesecakeisalightgoldenbrownattheedgesandthecentreisonlyjustfirm.Turnofftheovenbutleavethecheesecakeinsideforanhourorso,withthedoorproppedopenwithawoodenspoon.Allowittocometoroomtemperaturebeforewrappinginclingfilmandkeepinginthefridgeforatleast4hours.

8Whenreadytoserve,releasethespringformtin,removethebakingparchmentandtransfertoacakeplatter.Thecheesecakeisbestservedchilled,straightfromthefridge,andcutwithawarmknife(dipthebladeinhotwaterandwipedrybeforeusing).

Thebasecanbemade2daysinadvanceandstoredinthefridge.

Thecheesecakecanbeassembledupto2daysinadvanceandstoredinthefridge.

Fig,orangeandmascarponecheesecake

ChocolatebananaripplecheesecakeIfyouaregoingtodoit,youmightaswelldoit.Takeevenacoupleofthewordsinthisrecipe’snameandyouhavesomethingapproximatingadessert.Takeallfourandyouhaveyourselfaboutasseriousateatimeorend-of-mealtreatasyoucanimagine.

SERVES10–12

BASE30gwalnuthalves200gdigestivebiscuits2tbspcocoapowder50gdemerarasugar100gunsaltedbutter,melted,plusextraforgreasing2–3largeripebananas,peeledand

slicedonthediagonalinto1cmthickpieces(260g)BANANAGANACHE125gdarkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),roughlychoppedinto1cmpieces25mlfull-fatmilk50mldoublecream1largeripebanana,peeledandmashed(100g)

FILLING375gwhitechocolatechips(or375gwhitechocolate,roughlychoppedinto1cmpieces)375g

creamcheese3largeeggs,lightlybeaten220gsouredcream1tspvanillaextract

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Greasethebaseandsidesofa23cmroundspringformtinandlinewithbakingparchment.

2Spreadthewalnutsoutonabakingtrayandroastintheovenfor6minutes.Setasidetocool,thenchoproughlyinto0.5cmpieces.

3Forthebase,placethedigestivebiscuitsinafoodprocessorandblitztoformfinecrumbs.Tipintoamediumbowlandaddthecocoapowder,sugarandchoppedwalnuts.Addthemeltedbutterandstirwelltocombine.Spoonthe

crumbsintothetin,usingyourhandstopressthemintothebase.Evenoutthecrustwiththebackofaspoonorthebaseofaglassandsetasideinthefridge.

4Reducetheoventemperatureto170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.

5Tomakethebananaganache,placethechoppedchocolateinamediumheatproofbowl.Heatthemilkandcreaminasmallpan,andjustasitcomestotheboil,pouritoverthechocolate.Allowtostandfor1minutebeforestirringgentlywitharubberspatulasothatthechocolatemelts:youmightneedtoheatitalittlemoreifithasn’tallmelted.Stirinthemashedbananaandsetasidetocool.

6Forthefilling,placethechoppedwhitechocolateinasmallbowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater(makesurethebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewater),stirringfromtimetotime.Oncethechocolatehasmelted,turnofftheheat,removethebowlfromthepanofhotwaterandsetasidetocoolslightly,stirringoccasionally.

7Placethecreamcheeseinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeeduntilsmooth,thenreducethespeedtomedium.Graduallyaddtheeggs,scrapingdownthesidesofthebowlonceortwice,followedbythesouredcreamandvanilla.Addthemeltedwhitechocolate–don’tworryifit’sslightlytepidratherthancompletelycool–andbeatonamedium-lowspeeduntilcombined.

8Arrangetheslicedbananasevenlyoverthecrumbbaseinasinglelayer.Pourthecheesecakefillingcarefullyoverthebananas,then,usingasmallspoon,gentlydollopthebananaganacheontopofthefilling.Usingaknife(likeabutterknife),gentlyswirltheganacheandcreamcheesetogetherbyrepeatedlydrawingafigure‘8’throughthemixturetocreateamarbledlook.Placethecheesecakeonabakingtrayandbakefor60–70minutes,untiltheoutsideofthecheesecakeissetbutthecentreisstillslightlysofttotouch.Turnofftheovenbutleavethecheesecakeinside,withthedoorclosed,for1hour.Removefromtheovenandsetasideuntilcompletelycool,thenwrapthewholethingcarefullyinclingfilmandchillinthefridgeforatleast4hoursorpreferablyovernight,untilthecheesecakeiscompletelyfirm.

9Whenreadytoserve,releasethespringformtin,removethebakingparchmentandtransfertoacakeplatter.Setasidefor15minutesbeforeserving.

Thebiscuitcrumbbasecanbemadeandpressedintothecaketinupto2daysinadvanceandstoredinthefridge.Theganachecanalsobemade2or3daysinadvance,storedinthefridge,andgentlywarmedoverapotofsimmeringwatertosoftenbeforeswirling.Thewholecakeneedstobemadeatleast4hoursbeforeservingandthenkeptinthefridgetofirmup.Ideally,makeitthedaybeforeyouaregoingtoserveitsothatitcanchillovernight.

Onceassembled,thecakeisbeststoredinthefridgeandeatenwithin3days.

Chocolatebananaripplecheesecake

ApricotandAmarettocheesecakeThisisthecheesecaketoroundoffadinnerparty.SomewillhavethisinsteadofaglassofAmaretto;otherswillseeitastheperfectexcusetobringthebottletothetable.Whicheverwaythepartygoes,there’sanin-builtsynergyhere,withthesweetAmarettoliqueur(madefromabaseofapricotkernelsandbitteralmonds)complementingtheroastedapricotsandflakedroastedalmonds.

SERVES10–12

BASE70gflakedalmonds180gdigestivebiscuits100gunsaltedbutter,melted350gfreshapricots,cutinhalfandstoneremovedFILLING840gcreamcheese170gcastersugarscrapedseedsof½vanillapodfinelygratedzestof1largeorange(1tbsp)5largeeggs,lightlybeaten85gsouredcream70mlAmaretto

TOPPING15gflakedalmonds400gfreshapricots,cutinhalfandstoneremoved1tbspcastersugar1tbspwater1tbspAmaretto

1Preheattheovento170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.Lightlygreasethebaseandsidesofa23cmroundspringformtinandlinewithbakingparchment.

2Spreadallthealmonds(forthebaseandtopping)outonabakingtrayandroastfor10minutes,oruntiltheyarealightgoldenbrown.Setaside15gforthetopping.

3Forthebase,placethedigestivebiscuitsinafoodprocessorandblitztoformfinecrumbs:theconsistencyshouldbethatofdriedbreadcrumbs.Tipintoamediumbowlandaddthealmondsandmeltedbutter.Useyourhandsoralargespoontocombine:themixtureshouldbetheconsistencyofwetsand.Spoonthecrumbsintothetin,usingyourhandstopressthemintothebase.Evenoutthecrustwiththebackofaspoonorthebaseofaglassandsetasideinthefridge.

4Increasetheoventemperatureto210°C/190°CFan/GasMark6.

5Spreadtheapricotsforthebaseoutonabakingtray,cutsideup,androastfor25minutes(oralittlelonger,iftheywereveryfirmtobeginwith),untiltheyaresoftbutstillholdingtheirshape.Setasidetocool.

6Reducetheoventemperatureto170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.

7Forthefilling,placethecreamcheese,sugar,vanillaseedsandorangezestinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonamediumspeeduntilsmooth.Graduallyaddtheeggs,followedbythesouredcream,andbeatuntilcombined;youmightneedtoscrapedownthesidesofthebowlonceortwice.Finally,addtheAmarettoandmixuntilcombined.

8Removethecheesecakebasefromthefridgeandarrangetheroastedapricotsevenlyoverthebottom,cutsidedown.Theapricotsshouldfitquitesnuglywithoutoverlappingorleavinggaps.Gentlypourthecheesecakefillingovertheapricotsandthenplaceonabakingtray.Cookfor1hour,oruntilthesidesofthecheesecakearesetbutthemiddlehasawobblewhenshakenverygently.Turnofftheovenbutleavethecheesecakeinsideforanotherhour,withthedoorproppedopenwithawoodenspoon,beforeplacinginthefridgeforatleast3hoursorovernighttochillandsetcompletely.

9Onthedayofserving,preheattheovento210°C/190°CFan/GasMark6.Spreadtheapricotsoutonabakingtray,cutsideup,androastfor25minutes(oralittlelonger,iftheywereveryfirmtobeginwith),untiltheyaresoftbutstillholdingtheirshape.Sprinkletheapricotswiththesugar,waterandtheAmaretto.Returntotheovenandbakeforanother10minutes,untiltheapricotsaremoistandsyrupy.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocool.

10Whenreadytoserve,releasethespringformtin,removethebakingparchmentandtransfertoacakeplatter.Spoontheroastedsyrupyapricotsintothecentreofthecake,sprinkleoverthereservedtoastedalmondsandserve.

Thebiscuitcrumbbasecanbemadeandpressedintothecaketinupto2daysinadvanceandstoredinthefridge.Thecheesecakecanbemadeupto3daysinadvanceandstoredinthefridge(thetoppingshouldonlybeaddedonthedayofserving).

Onceassembled,thecakeisbesteatenonthesameday.Leftoverswillkeepforupto2daysinthefridge;theyjustwon’tlookasperfectasondayone.

ApricotandAmarettocheesecake

RoastedstrawberryandlimecheesecakeThespongecakebaseofthischeesecakewasinspiredby(andadaptedfrom)arecipeusedbythelegendaryJunior’sCheesecakeinBrooklyn.It’sanaturalpartnertothestrawberriesandawelcomechangefromthebiscuitbasemorecommonlyassociatedwithcheesecakes.Thespongeistwicebaked:firstbyitself,asaveryshallowcake,andagainwhenthecreamcheesemixturegoesontop.Welovethisbase,butalternativesworkjustaswell,ifyou’dprefersomethingnuttyandcrunchyandquicktoprepare:trythebasefromtheApricotandAmarettoCheesecake(seehere),withorwithouttheflakedalmonds.

SERVES12–16

BASE65gplainflour1tbspcornflour¾tspbakingpowder1/8tspsalt2largeeggs,whitesandyolksseparated130gcastersugarscrapedseedsof¼vanillapodfinelygratedzestof1lime(1tsp),plus1tsplimejuice30gunsaltedbutter,melted¼tspcreamoftartar

FILLING900gcreamcheese180gcastersugarscrapedseedsof½vanillapod5largeeggs(290g),lightlybeaten(thegramweightisimportanthere,andaseggsvaryinsize

youmightneedslightlymoreorlessthan5)90gsouredcreamfinelygratedzestof3limes(1tbsp),plus1tbsplimejuiceROASTEDSTRAWBERRIESabout30largestrawberries,hulled(600g)20gicingsugar,plusanextra1tsp,fordusting

1Preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.Greasethebaseandsidesofa23cmroundspringformcaketinandlinewithbakingparchment.

2Tomakethespongebase,placetheflour,cornflour,bakingpowderandsaltinabowlandsetaside.Placetheeggyolksinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace,andadd100gofthesugarandvanillaseeds.Whiskonahighspeeduntilpaleandthickened.Removethebowlfromthemixerandsiftthedryingredientsdirectlyontotheeggs.Foldtocombine,thenaddthelimezest,juiceandmeltedbutterandmixtoincorporate.Transfertoalargebowlandsetaside.

3Washanddrythebowlfortheelectricmixerverywellandreturnittothemachinewiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Addtheeggwhitesandwhiskonahighspeeduntilfrothy.Addthecreamoftartar,continuetowhiskuntilsoftpeaksform,thengraduallydrizzleintheremainingcastersugar.Continuetowhiskuntilfirmpeaksform.Foldathirdoftheeggwhitesintothecakemixturetolightenit,beforefoldingintherestuntilfullycombined.Scrapethemixtureintothepreparedcaketin,smooththetopwithasmallspatulaandplaceintheovenforabout12minutes,oruntilthespongeispalegoldenandthecentrespringsbackwhentouchedlightly.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolwhileyoupreparethecheesecakemixture.

4Reducetheoventemperatureto170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.

5Tomakethefilling,placethecreamcheese,sugarandvanillaseedsinanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatuntilsmooth,thengraduallyaddtheeggs,beatingallthetime.Addthesouredcream,limezestandjuiceandcontinuetomixuntilcombined.Atthispointthemixturewillbequiterunny,soremovethepaddleattachmentandfinishwhiskingwithalargehandwhiskuntilcompletelysmooth.

6Sitthecaketinontopofaparchment-linedtray(toprotectagainstanyspillagefromthebase)andpourthecheesecakemixoverthebakedsponge:thebatterwillriseclosetothetopofthetin,butthat’sfine.Bakefor55minutes:thecentrewillstillbewobblybut,aslongasthesidesofthecheesecakearefirm,thisishowitshouldbe.Don’tworryifacrackhasformedonthesurfaceofthecake:thiscanoftenresultfromalongcookingtimeandwillbehiddenbythestrawberriespiledontop.Turnofftheoven,butleavethecheesecakeinsideforanhourorso,withtheovendoorproppedopenwithawoodenspoon.Removefromtheovenandleavetocooltoroomtemperaturebeforetransferringtothe

fridgeforatleast4hours,uncovered,untilcompletelychilled.Don’tbetemptedtowrapthecake,asthiswillcausecondensation.

7Onthedayyouplantoservethecheesecake,preheattheovento250°C/230°CFan/GasMark9.

8Toroastthestrawberries,sitthestrawberriesonawirerack,tipendpointingup,andplacethewirerackonaparchment-linedbakingtray.Raisingthemabovethetrayallowsthestrawberriestoroastratherthanstew.Dustwiththe20goficingsugarandroastfor15minutes,untilthetipsofthestrawberrieshaveslightlyblackened:notalloftheicingsugarneedstohavemelted.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolbeforeplacinginthecentreofthecake,tippointingup.Drizzlethecookingjuicesoverthestrawberriesanddustwiththeremainingteaspoonoficingsugar.Ifnotservingstraightaway,returnthecaketothefridge:youwanttoservethisfridge-cold.

Thecheesecakecanbemadeupto3daysinadvanceandkeptinthefridge(thestrawberriesshouldonlyberoastedandaddedonthedayofserving).

Onceassembled,thecakeisbesteatenonthesameday.Leftoverswillkeepforupto3daysinthefridge,buttheywon’tlookasperfect,asthestrawberrieswillleak.

Roastedstrawberryandlimecheesecake

Tartsandpies

Tartsandpieshavearealsenseofoccasionaboutthem.Whichoccasionitiswilldeterminewhichtartorpieisbroughttothetable.HomelyweekendlunchesneedtheWalnutandBlackTreacleTarts(seehere),whilemoreexoticfeastsmightrequirethePineappleTartletswithPandanandStarAnise(seehere),orthosefilledwithfigandfrangipane(seehere).Classicchocolatetartsareforthesmartandwell-heeledevent,whilethosebakingforamorefree-form,rusticoccasionmightpreferanopengalette.Thechoiceisentirelyyours:aswithalldresscodes,guidanceisthereforthosewhowantitratherthantobefollowedtotheletter.Anythinggoes,really.

Weusefourdifferenttypesofpastryinourtartsandpies:sweetshortcrust,flaky(pâtebrisée),polentaandcreamcheese.

SWEETSHORTCRUSTPASTRY›YotamfirstworkedwiththispastryduringhistimeatBaker&Spiceandit’sbeenwithuseversince.It’sunusualinthatithasbothadelicate‘snap’,yetisrobustenoughtocontainallsortsoffillings.Whenblind-bakeditbecomesverylightandcrisp;whenbakeddirectlywiththefillingitbecomesshortandbuttery.Thepastryitselftastessodelicious–withahintoflemon–thatitcouldpassasasimplebiscuit.Aslongasyouchillandrestitproperly,it’salsoveryeasytoworkwith.

Mostofourrecipesuseonlyhalfabatchofsweetshortcrustpastry,theonlyexceptionbeingtheFigandPistachioFrangipaneTartlets(seehere)whichusesabouttwo-thirds.Thisisbecauseonebatchusesoneeggyolk,soratherthanmuckingaboutwithhalfaneggyolk,wefinditpreferabletomakeafullbatchandfreezethehalfwedonotuse.Ifyoufindthisannoying,youobviouslyhaven’ttriedtosplitaneggyolkintwo!

FLAKYPASTRY(PÂTEBRISÉE)›ThiscrispandlightpastrycomesfromtheAustralianBourkeStreetBakery,alwaysYotam’sfirststopwhenhe’svisitingSydney.Thedoughhasahighproportionofwater–45ml–soshrinks(asthewaterevaporates)duringbaking.Thismakesitsuperlightandcrispandisalso,becauseoftheflakiness,whatleadstotheslightlyunevenor‘rustic’lookofthebakedshell.Thisisfine–welikerustic!–buttakecarenottoover-workorstretchthedoughwhenyou’reliningatin:youdon’twanttoencouragetoomuchshrinkage.

CREAMCHEESEPASTRY›ThisisfromThePieandPastryBiblebyRoseLevyBeranbaum.Inherintroduction,Rosesaysof‘herfavouritepiecrust’thatittookherseveralyearsandoverfiftyattemptstogetright.Thankyou,Rose,yourhardworkwasnotinvain!It’sfullofflavour,thankstothecreamcheese,turnsalovelygoldenbrownwhenbaked,andmanagestobebothtenderandflakyatonce.Theflakinessofthepastryisattributedtothefreezingofthebutterandflour(forbetween30and60minutes),sodon’tbetemptedtoskimponthisstage.Thecreamcheeseinthemixalsomakesitwonderfullypliableandadreamtoroll.Itmakesforaverysoftdough,though,soyoumightneedtoreturnitregularlytothefridgewhilerollingifthedayisparticularlywarm.Wehaveusedregularplainflourinourversion(ratherthanthepastryflourwhich–duetoitslowerproteincontent–Roserecommends),asthisistheflourmorewidelyavailabletous.

Theconsistencyofcreamcheesecanvaryhugely(accordingtoitswatercontent)fromonebrandorfromonecountrytoanother(seehere).Thiscanhaveabearingonthemakingofthepastry.InAmerica,forexample,creamcheeseisveryfirm,whichmeansthattheingredientsforthepastrywon’tcometogetherinafoodprocessorandthemixneedstobekneaded.IntheUK,ontheotherhand,thecreamcheeseismorewateryandsoft,sotheingredientscometogetherveryquicklyinthefoodprocessor.Ourinstructionsareforthecreamcheesewehaveworkedwith–thesoftandspreadablekind–sothisissomethingtobemindfulofifyourcreamcheeseisveryfirm.

POLENTAPASTRY›ThiswasdevelopedintheearlydaysofOttolenghi,whenweneededa‘gritty’texturetostandagainstthecreaminessofvariouscurdsandcreamsinsomeofourtartsorfruitygalettes.WeuseithereinourApricotandThymeGalettes(seehere).

Ourtins,tipsandtricksIfyoureallywanttostockupandbeabletobakeallourtartsandpies,you’llneedthefollowing;don’tworryifyoudon’thavethemall,however,asalternativesaresuggested.

MINI-FLUTEDTINS›Asetofeight(oreventwelve)mini-flutedtarttins,8–9cmwideand2–2.5cmdeep,areneededtomaketheWalnutandBlackTreacleTarts(seehere),theMontBlancTarts(seehere)andtheChaiBrûléeTarts(seehere).Therealityofourkitchenisthatwehaveaselectionofvery-similar-but-slightly-differentmini-tarttins:someare8cmwideand2.5cmdeep;someare9cmwideand2cmdeep;andsomeare10cmwideandeither2or2.5cmdeep.WhenwritingSweet,wespentsometimeobsessingaboutthedifferencebetweenonetinandanother,andanequalamountoftimefeelingveryrelaxedaboutthefactthatwhichevertinyouuse(evenwithinourobsessivemargins!),allwillbefine:youmightmakeonemoreorlesstartthanarecipestates,butworsethingshappenatsea.Whatevertheexactdimensionsofyourtins,makesuretheyhaveremovablebases.

LARGEFLUTEDTARTTINS›TheChocolateTartwithHazelnut,RosemaryandOrange(seehere)ismadeinalarge(23or25cm)flutedtarttinwitharemovablebase.Inaddition,ifyoudon’thaveasetofmini-flutedtins,youcanmaketheWalnutandBlackTreacleTarts(seehere)andtheMontBlancTarts(seehere)in

alargeflutedtin.Thewalnuttartwillbakeandsliceasneatlylargeasitdoesinminiform;theMontBlanctart,ontheotherhand,islessneatandtidywhenbakedwhole–itwillstilltastedelicious,butwillshatterwhensliced.TheChaiBrûléeTarts(seehere)onlyworkinminiform.

REGULARMUFFINTINS›Thesehave12moulds:7cmwideatthetop,5cmwideatthebottom,and3.5cmdeep.AregularmuffintinisusedfortheFigandPistachioFrangipaneTartlets(seehere)andLittleBakedChocolateTarts(seehere),andisalsoasuitablealternativetothetraditionalmincepietin(seebelow).

TRADITIONALMINCEPIETINS›Thesehave12mouldswithcurvedbottoms:justunder6cmatthetopand1.5cmdeep.TheyareusedforthePineappleTartlets(seehere).

COOKIECUTTERS›Youcan’tgetan11cmroundcookiecutter,weknow,soyoucaneitherusea10cmroundcutteror,aswedo,improvisewithwhateveryoucanfindthatisroundand11cmwide:alidorabowlworkswell.Bakingisascience,ofcourse,butnecessitycanalsobethemotherofinventionwhenyou’retryingtocreatetheperfectroundofpastrytofittheidealmuffinmould.

TRIMMINGPASTRY›Whetheryoutrimyourpastryedgesbeforeorafterbaking(iftheyneedtrimming)isamatterofpersonalpreference.Ifthere’sanoverhang,someprefertotrimbeforebaking,othersliketotrimafterthetartisbakedsothatanyshrinkagehasbeenaccountedfor.Wefindthesecondoptionabittoocrumb-creating,sotendtotrimthingsupbeforethetartgoesintheoven.It’sentirelyuptoyou.

DOCKINGTHEPASTRY›Whetheryoudockthepastry–prickingitinafewplaceswiththeprongsofaforkoncethetinhasbeenlinedandbeforeitisbaked–issomethingwealsoleaveuptoyou.Thereasonfordockingistopreventthepastryrisingandbakingunevenlyintheoven.It’snotsomethingwetendtodo,regardlessofwhetherthecasesarebeingblind-bakedorgoingstraightintheovenwiththeirfilling,butifyouwerealwaystaughttodockyourpastry,thereisnodownsidetodoingso.

Workingwithpastryrequiresyoutofeelconfidentaboutassessingwhatyouarecreatingandthenmakingacall.Ifyou’verolledyourpastryabitthinnerthansuggested,forexample,itwillneedaminuteortwolessintheoven;thickerpastrywillneedaminutelonger.Thedifferencebetweentheideal‘slight

wobble’ofafillingandafillingwhichissounsetastostillbeliquidissomethingyouneedtobeabletorecognize.Aswe’vesaidbefore,thebestwaytobecomeareallyconfidentbakeristomakethesamethingmorethanonce–bakeandre-bakethesamerecipeuntilyoucanreaditlikeanoldfriend.You’llsoonknowitbetterthanitknowsitself.

RecipeListRhubarbandblueberrygalette

Littlebakedchocolatetartswithtahiniandsesamebrittle(ormarmalade)

MontBlanctartsChaibrûléetarts

Chocolatetartwithhazelnut,rosemaryandorangeWalnutandblacktreacletartswithcrystallizedsage

FigandpistachiofrangipanetartletsSchiacciatawithgrapesandfennelseeds

ApricotandthymegaletteswithpolentapastryPineappletartletswithpandanandstaranise

RhubarbandblueberrygaletteTherhubarbandblueberryaresogoodtogetherhere,butdoplayaroundwiththefruits,ifyoulike:figsandraspberriesalsopairnicely.Ifyou’dprefertousejustonefruit,somethinlyslicedpeaches,apricotsorapplesworkwell.Servethiswithsomewhippedcreamorvanillaicecreamalongside.

TheAmarettibiscuitsareusefulforsoakinguptheexcessliquidfromthefruits.Youwantthedry,crumblyvariety,notthesoftandchewyones.They’renothardtogetholdof,butifyoufindyourselfwithout,crushedSavoiardibiscuitsorgroundalmondscanbeusedinstead.Theywon’tprovidetheflavourhitoftheAmaretti,butwillbefine.

SERVES8

CREAMCHEESEPASTRY120gunsaltedbutter,fridge-cold,cutinto2cmcubes185gplainflour,plusextrafordusting¼tspsalt1/8tspbakingpowder85gcreamcheese2–3tbspdoublecream2tspcidervinegar

BASE50gAmarettibiscuits45gcastersugar1tbspplainflour1tspgroundcinnamon

FILLING220grhubarb,trimmedandwashed,halvedlengthways,ifthick,andcutinto5cmlengths

120gfreshblueberries100gcastersugar1tbsptapiocaflour(orcornflour)finelygratedzestof1smallorange(1tsp)1/8tspsalt

GLAZE1largeegg

2tspwater1tbspdemerarasugar

1Tomakethepastry,wrapthecubesofbutterinclingfilmandplaceinthefreezerforaboutanhourforthebuttertofreezesolid.Placetheflour,saltandbakingpowderinare-sealablefreezerbagandfreezeforatleast30minutes.Seehereformoreonfreezingthebutterandflour.

2Tiptheflourmixintothebowlofafoodprocessorandprocessforabout30secondstocombine.Addthecreamcheeseandprocessforanother20seconds,oruntilthemixturehastheconsistencyofcoarsebreadcrumbs.Addthefrozenbuttercubesandpulsetoformcrumbs:they’llbeuneveninsize–somethesizeofpeasandsomeabitlarger–butthat’sfine.

3Add2tablespoonsofdoublecreamandthevinegarandpulseuntilthedoughstartstoholdtogether:addtheextratablespoonofcreamifthedoughneedsit.Tipontoacleanworksurfaceanduseyourhandsandknucklestopressthemixtureuntilitholdstogetherinonepiece.Wrapthedoughlooselyinclingfilm(orputitinthebagyouusedtochilltheflour)andpresstoflattenitintoadisc.Placeinthefridgeforatleast45minutes(orupto2days).

4Preheattheovento210°C/190°CFan/GasMark6.

5Forthebase,roughlycrushtheAmarettibiscuitsintoasmallbowl.Addthesugar,flourandcinnamonandsetaside.

6Forthefruitfilling,placealltheingredientsinamediumbowl,tossgentlytocombineandsetaside.

7Removethediscofdoughfromthefridge10minutesbeforeyouwanttorollit,sothatithassomemalleability.Placeitonalargesheetofbakingparchmentwhichhasbeenlightlydustedwithflour.Rollthedoughoutevenlyintoalargecircle,about38–40cmwideand2mmthick.Trimtheedgestocreatearoughcircle,thentransferit,alongwiththeparchmentpaper(itistoosofttotransferalone),ontoalargebakingtray.SprinkletheAmarettibiscuitcrumbmixina25cmwidecircleoverthemiddleofthepastry.Spoonthefruitfillingontopofthecrumbs,thencarefullydrawthepastryborderupandoverthefruit,roughlypleatingitasyougo,andleavingasmallareaofthefruit-filledcentreofthe

galetteexposed.Ifthepastryhasbecometoosoftorwarmduringthisprocess,placethegaletteinthefridgetochillforupto1hourbeforebaking.

8Beattheeggwiththewaterinabowlandbrushallovertheoutsideofthepastry.Sprinklewiththesugar,thenbakeforabout40minutes,rotatingthetrayhalfwaythrough,oruntilthegaletteisgolden.Removefromtheovenandsetasideonawireracktocoolbeforeserving,withwhippedcreamorvanillaicecreamalongside.

Thepastrycanbemade2daysinadvance(itwilllastlonger,butthecreamcheesewillmakeitdiscolour)andkeptinthefridge,wrappedinclingfilm.Itcanalsobefrozen,againwrappedinclingfilm,forupto2months.

Oncebaked,thiswillkeepfor1dayatroomtemperature.

Rhubarbandblueberrygalette

Littlebakedchocolatetartswithtahiniandsesamebrittle(ormarmalade)Ratherthanmakingonelargechocolatetarttoserveafterameal(seetheChocolateTartwithHazelnut,RosemaryandOrange),it’ssometimesfuntomakelotsofindividualtarts.Chocolatemoussepairssowellwithsomanyflavoursthatyoucanfillthebaseofthesetartswithprettymuchanythingyoulike.We’vegiventwooptionshere–tahiniandthemarmalade–butyoucanplayaroundwithfillings:ateaspoonofcrumbledhalva,minticing,somechoppednuts,asliceofbanana,thebrittleusedinthelargechocolatetart,ateaspoonofjam–theyallworkwell.It’sfun,ifservingthemascanapés,tohaveamixoffillings,sothatpeoplehaveapopofsurprise.Ifyouwanttogiveaclueastowhat’sinside,youcandosowiththegarnish.AshardofSesameBrittle,workswellontopofthetahinitarts,asphotographed,orathinsliceofcandiedorangepeelonthosewiththemarmaladefilling.

Quantitywise,we’vemadeenoughofthemarmaladefillingtofillonewholebatchoftarts.Ifyouwanttodohalfandhalf,you’lljustneedtoreducetheamountoffillingyoumake.

MAKES12

SWEETSHORTCRUSTPASTRY(YOUWILLONLYNEED2/3QUANTITY)300gplainflour,plusextrafordusting90gicingsugar¼tspsalt200gunsaltedbutter,fridge-cold,cutintocubes,plusanextra10g,melted,forbrushing

finelygratedzestof1lemon(1tsp)1largeeggyolk20mlwater

CHOCOLATEMOUSSE200gchocolate(70%cocoasolids),roughlychopped150gunsaltedbutter,roughlycutinto

2cmdice3largeeggs50gcastersugar

Dutch-processedcocoapowder,fordusting

TAHINIFILLING180GTAHINIPASTE60ghoney

MARMALADEFILLING(HALVETHEQUANTITIESIFYOUAREDOINGHALFTHEBATCHWITHMARMALADEANDHALFWITHTAHINI)180gSevillemarmalade,fine-cutorno-peel

MASCARPONEQUENELLES120GMASCARPONE

1Tomakethepastry,sifttogethertheflour,icingsugarandsaltandplaceinafoodprocessor.Addthebutterandlemonzestandpulseafewtimes,untilthemixturehastheconsistencyoffreshbreadcrumbs.Lightlywhisktogethertheeggyolkandwaterandaddthistothemix:thedoughwillfeelquitewet,butthisisasitshouldbe.Processoncemore,justuntilthedoughcomestogether,thentipontoaclean,lightlyflouredworksurface.Lightlykneadthedoughintoaball.Wraplooselyinclingfilmandpressgentlytoformaflattishdisc.Thedoughisverysoft,sokeepitinthefridgeforatleast1hour(orupto3days).

2Lightlybrushthemouldsofaregularmuffintinwiththemeltedbutteranddustwithflour,tappingawaytheexcess.

3Whenreadytorollout,allowthedoughtorestatroomtemperaturefor30minutes(ifithasbeeninthefridgeformorethanafewhours)andplaceonalightlyflouredworksurface.Tapalloverwitharollingpintosoftenslightlybeforerollingoutuntil2–3mmthick.Usinga10or11cmroundcookiecutter(oralternative,seehere),cutouttwelvecirclesandgentlyeasetheseintothemuffinmoulds,pressingdowntofillthemoulds.Re-rollthepastry,ifnecessary,untilyougettwelvecircles.Refrigerateforatleast1hourbeforeblind-bakingthecases.Theremainingthirdofthedoughcanbefrozenforfutureuse.

4Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

5Toblindbakethetartcases,linethepastrycaseswithsquaresofbakingparchmentorpaperliners.Fillwithalayerofriceordriedbeansandbakefor20–25minutes,oruntilthepastryshellsarealightgoldenbrownaroundtheedges.Removetheparchmentpaperorlinersandthericeorbeansandreturnthepastrytotheovenforanother3minutes.Setthepastrycasesaside(stillintheir

tin)tocooldown.

6Tomakethechocolatemousse,placethechocolateandbutterinalargeheatproofbowloverapanofsimmeringwater,makingsurethebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewater.Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted,thenremovefromtheheatandsetasidetocoolforabout10minutes.

7Placetheeggsandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Whiskonahighspeedforatleast10minutes,untilthemixtureisextremelypale,thickandfoamyandhastripledinvolume.Removethebowlfromthemachineand,usingalargeslottedspoonorhand-heldwhisk,gentlyfoldathirdofthemixintothemeltedchocolateandbutter.Gentlybutthoroughlyfoldintherestoftheegg-sugarmixtureuntilwellcombined.

8Increasetheoventemperatureto200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.

9Ifusingthetahinifilling,placethetahiniandhoneyinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplaceandbeatforapproximately3minutesuntilthickened.Spoon1teaspoonofthetahinimixtureintothebaseofeachtartshellandsetaside.Ifgoingwiththemarmaladeoption,spoonateaspoonofmarmaladeintothebaseofeachshellandsetaside.

10Pipeorspoonthechocolatemixtureoverthetahiniormarmaladefilling,rightuptoandovertherim.Beconfidenthere:youwantthemoussetoriseupandformadomeshape.Oncefull,bakefor9–10minutes,untilacrusthasformedontopbutthecentreisstillgooey.Setasidetocoolcompletelyinthetin–thetartsaretoomoltentobeservedwarm.Whencool,usethetipofasmallknifetoprisethetartsoutoftheirmoulds.Dustlightlywithcocoapowderandusetwosmallteaspoonstoform‘quenelles’ofmascarponetotopeachtart.

Thepastrywillmakemorethanyou’llneed.Itwillkeepwellinthefridge,wrappedinclingfilm,forupto3days.Italsofreezeswell,wrappedfirstinclingfilmandthenaluminiumfoil,forupto2months.Iffreezingthedough,dosoindiscformor,ifplanningtomakeindividualtarts,rollitoutandcutittosizesothatyou’reallsetforyournextbake.

Oncebaked,anyuneatentartsmaybekeptatroomtemperatureorinthefridgeforupto2days.Ifkeptin

thefridge,justbringthembacktoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

Littlebakedchocolatetartswithtahiniandsesamebrittle(ormarmalade)

MontBlanctartsNamedafterthesnowymountaintheyresemble,MontBlanctarts–withtheirwhitemeringue,whippedcreamandtan-colouredchestnutpurée–canoftentastemorefabulousthantheylook,withallthatbeigeandwhite.Wewantedtoseeifwecouldimprovetheirvisualappeal–bringinsomemorecontrastbyplayingaroundwiththecolours,forexample–butaftervariousexperiments(darkchocolatepastry,alighter-colouredpurée)wewerebeginningtothinkthatthetried-and-testedrouteupthisparticularmountainwastheonlywinningone.

Itwasamomentofpuresynchronicity,then,thatatoneofourweeklypastrymeetingstherewerevariousthingslyingaroundwhichcametogetherinaflash:someemptytartshells,candiedpecans,anopencanofchestnutspread.Atthesametime,HelenandYotambothgrabbedanemptyshell,filleditwiththechestnutspread,spoonedoversmoothwhippedcreamandaddedtheelementthathadbeenmissing–thecandiedpecans–whichbroughtthecrunchandthelookneeded.There’sametaphorinthere,we’resure,aboutclimbingmountains,andnotgivingup,andthingstastingallthesweeterwhenyou’vehadtoworkjustthatlittlebithardertoearnthem.

MAKES8

FLAKYPASTRY200gplainflour120gunsaltedbutter,fridge-cold,cutinto1cmdice30gcastersugar¼tspsalt½tspwhitewinevinegar3tbspice-coldwater

CANDIEDPECANS1tbspmaplesyrup1tbspliquidglucose1tbspcastersugar120gpecanhalves1/8tspflakyseasalt

FILLING

60gdarkcookingchocolate(70%cocoasolids)320gsweetenedchestnutspread(weuseClementFaugier;whicheverbrandyouuse,just

makesurethatitisnottheunsweetenedvariety)VANILLAWHIPPEDCREAM300mldoublecream1tbspicingsugar1tspvanillaextract½tspbrandy

1Forthepastry,placetheflour,butter,sugarandsaltinthebowlofafoodprocessor.Blitzafewtimes,untilitistheconsistencyoffinebreadcrumbs,thenaddthevinegarandwater.Continuetoworkforafewseconds,thentransfertoyourworksurface.Shapeintoaballandflattenintoadisc,wrapinclingfilmandsetasideinthefridgeforatleast1hour(orupto3days).

2Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.

3Tolinethetartcases,allowthedoughtorestatroomtemperaturefor30minutes(ifithasbeeninthefridgeformorethanafewhours)andplaceonalightlyflouredworksurface.Rolloutthedoughtoabout3mmthickandcutouteightcircles,14cmwide.Re-rollthedough,ifnecessary,togeteightcircles.Transferonecircleatatimetothe8–9cmwideand2–3cmdeepflutedtinsandgentlypressthepastryintothecornersofthetarttin:youwantittofitsnuglyandfortheretobeadecentamountofpastryhangingovertheedgeofthetartcase,asthepastrycanshrinkalittlewhenbaked.Placeinthefridgefor30minutestorest.

4Toblindbakethetartcases,linethepastrybaseswithbakingparchmentorpaperlinersandfillwithbakingbeans.Bakefor18minutes,untilthepastryisgoldenbrownattheedges.Removethebeansandpaperandcookforanother8minutes,oruntilthebaseisgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolcompletelyinthetray.Oncecool,trimthepastry(sothatitcanberemovedfromthetray)andsetasideuntilreadytofill.

5Increasetheoventemperatureto210°C/190°CFan/GasMark6.Lineabakingtray(withalippededge)withbakingparchmentandsetaside.

6Tomakethecandiedpecans,putthemaplesyrup,glucoseandsugarintoasmallsaucepanandplaceoveralowheat.Stirgentlyuntilthesugarhasmelted,

thenaddthepecansandsalt.Stirsothatthenutsarecoatedinsyrup,thentipthenutsontothelinedbakingtray.Placeintheovenforabout8minutes,oruntilthesyrupisbubblingaroundthenuts.Removethetrayfromtheovenandsetasideuntilcompletelycooled.Whenthenutsarecooled,theglazeshouldbecompletelycrisp;ifnot,returnthemtotheovenforafewmoreminutes.Oncecooled,breakorroughlychopthenutsinto0.5cmpiecesandsetasideuntilreadytouse.

7Makethefillingwhenyouarereadytoassemble.Placethechocolateinaheatproofbowloverapanofsimmeringwater,makingsurethatthebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewater.Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted,thenuseapastrybrushtolinetheinsideofeachcasewiththechocolate.Setasideforabout30minutes,toset,thenfillwithenoughchestnutspreadsothatitrisesabouthalfwayupthesidesofthetartcases.

8Forthevanillawhippedcream,pourthecreamintothebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Addtheicingsugar,vanillaextractandbrandyandwhiskonahighspeedfor1minute,oruntilmedium-softpeaksform.

9Dividethewhippedcreambetweenthetarts,sothatitisslightlydomedontopofthechestnutspread.Sprinklethecandiedpecansgenerouslyontop–youmighthaveatablespoonortwoleftover,butthesecanbesavedtomunchon,tosprinkleoveryournextbowlofbreakfastgranolaorporridge,ortouseintheKnickerbockerGlory(seehere)–andserve.

Youwillneedeightmini-flutedtins,about8–9cmwideand2–3cmdeep.Alternatively,youcanmakethisinonelargeflutedtarttin,around25cmwideand3cmdeep.

Thepastrycanbemadeupto3daysaheadandkeptinthefridge(wrappedinclingfilm)untilreadytoroll.Itcanalsobefrozenforupto2months.Thecandiedpecanscanbemadeupto5daysinadvanceandkeptinanairtightcontainer.

Onceassembled,thetartsarebesteatenonthedaytheyarebaked.

MontBlanctarts

Chaibrûléetarts

We’vetakenourinspirationforthesefromSydney’sBourkeStreetBakery,whereYotamhadhisfirstbiteoftheirbrûléetarts.We’verampedupandchai-i-fiedthespices,andwebakeourcustardintheoven(ratherthanonthestovetop,asdoesBourkeStreet),soitisset.Alayerofskincandeveloponthesurfaceofthecustard,butdon’tworry:onceit’sspoonedintothetartcasesandthetopsaresugaredandburnt,theskinwon’tbenoticed,sodon’tbetemptedtotakeitoff.Holdyournervewhencaramelizingthecustard:thedarkeryoucantakeitthebetter,intermsofflavour,contrastandlooks.

MAKES10-12

CUSTARD560mldoublecream6cmpieceoffreshginger(45g),peeledandcoarselygrated7cardamompods,crushed,so

thattheseedsarereleased3largecinnamonsticks,brokeninhalf1Englishbreakfastteabag3bayleaves½tspwholeblackpeppercorns1wholenutmeg65gcastersugar,plusanextra80gforthecaramelizedtopping165geggyolks(from8large

eggs)(thewhitescanbefrozenforfutureuse)FLAKYPASTRY200gplainflour120gunsaltedbutter,fridge-cold,cutinto1cmdice,plusextra,melted,forbrushing30g

castersugar¼tspsalt½tspwhitewinevinegar3tbspice-coldwater

1Tomakethecustard,placethecreaminalarge,heavy-basedpanandaddtheginger,cardamom(thegreencasingandinnerseeds),cinnamon,teabag,bayleaves,peppercorns,nutmegand65gsugar.Bringslowlytotheboil,then

removefromtheheatstraightaway.Setasidetocool,andleaveinthefridge,covered,overnight.

2Thefollowingday,preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

3Gentlywarmthecreamoveramediumheatbeforestrainingthroughafinesieveintoabowlanddiscardingthespices.Placetheeggyolksinalargecleanbowlandwhisktocombine.Whiskingthewholetimesothattheeggsdon’tcurdle,slowlypourthecreamovertheeggs.Transferthemixturetoa25x20cmglassorceramicovenproofdishandplacethisinsidealargerbakingtray.Placethebakingtrayintheovenbeforefillingitwithenoughboilingwater(pouredstraightfromajust-boiledkettle)sothatitriseshalfwayupthesidesofthebakingdishfilledwiththecustard.Bakefor15–20minutes,untiljustcooked:themiddlewillbeabitwobblybuttheedgeswillhavesetcompletely.Liftthecustarddishoutofthewaterbathandsetasidetocoolbeforecoveringandchillingforaboutanhour,oruntilreadytouse.Don’tworryifaskinformsontop(seeintroduction).

4Forthepastry,placetheflour,butter,sugarandsaltinthebowlofafoodprocessor.Blitzafewtimes,untiltheconsistencyoffinebreadcrumbs,thenaddthevinegarandwater.Continuetoworkforafewseconds,thentransfertoyourworksurface.Shapeintoaballandflattenintoadisc,wrapinclingfilmandsetasideinthefridgeforabout1hour(orupto3days).

5Lightlybrushtwelveflutedtartcases,8.5cmwideand2.5cmdeep,withmeltedbutter.Whenreadytorollout,allowthedoughtorestatroomtemperaturefor30minutes(ifithasbeeninthefridgeformorethanafewhours)andplaceonalightlyflouredworksurface.Rolloutthedoughuntilitisjust2mmthick,thencutouttwelvecircles,12cmwide,andlinethetartcases.Re-rollthedough,ifnecessary,togettwelvecircles.Gentlypressthedoughintothecornersofthetartcasessothatitfitssnugly;ifthereisanypastryhangingovertheedges,trimthisnow.Placeinthefridgefor30minutestoallowthepastrytorest.

6Toblindbakethetartcases,preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Placethetarttinsonabakingtray,thenlinethecaseswithsquaresofbakingparchmentorpaperlinersandfillwithbakingbeans.Bakefor18minutes,untilthepastryisgoldenbrownattheedges.Removethebeansandpaperandcook

foranother9–10minutes,untilthebaseisgoldenbrown.Don’tworryifyourpastryshrinksabitduringcooking:youactuallywantalittlebitofshrinkagetoensuretheperfectratioofcustardtopastry.Don’tworry,also,iftheedgesbecomealittleuneven:oncethetartsarefilledwithcustardandthesurfacehasbeenblowtorched,thiswillnotbenoticeable.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocool.

7Justbeforeserving,removethepastrycasesfromthetins.Carefullyspoonthecustardintothecases,fillingthemallthewaytothetop.Useapaletteknifetoeventhemoff–notworrying,again,iftheedgesareunevenatthisstage–thensprinkletheremainingsugarliberallyontopofeachone.Blowtorchthesugartocreateacrisp,dark-goldencaramel,andserve.

Weusetwelveflutedtartcases,8.5cmwideand2.5cmdeep.Ifyouhave10cmroundtins,that’salsofine:you’lljustmakeeighttartsratherthantwelve.Youwillalsoneedablowtorchtocaramelizethecustard(don’tplacethemunderahotgrill,asthepastrywillburn).Youdon’tneedanythingindustrialorexpensive:therearelotsofsmalleronesaroundwhichdothejobwell.

Thedoughcanbemadeupto3daysaheadandkeptinthefridge(wrappedinclingfilm)untilreadytoroll.Itcanalsobefrozenforupto2months.Youneedtostartpreparingthecustardadayaheadtoallowtheflavourstoinfuse.

Onceassembled,thetartletsarebesteatenonthedaytheyarebaked.

Chaibrûléetarts

Chocolatetartwithhazelnut,rosemaryandorangeThisrichanddecadenttartisessentiallyabakedchocolatemousse.Onitsownitissmoothandrichandreallyrathergood.Coupledwiththehazelnutcrunchonthebase–whichissimilartoabrittlebuteasier,asyoudon’thavetomakeacaramel–it’sthehighpointonwhichtoendameal,alongsidesomelightlywhippedcreamtooffsettherichness.

MAKES1LARGETART,SERVES8–10

CRYSTALLIZEDROSEMARYGARNISH(OPTIONAL)1–2sprigsrosemary(5g)½largeeggwhite,lightlywhisked20gcastersugar

FILLING120mldoublecream90gunsaltedbutter,cubed3sprigsofrosemary(10g)shavedpeelof1orange(avoidingthebitterwhitepith)270gdarkcookingchocolate(70%

cocoasolids),finelychopped1largeegg,plus3largeeggyolks90gcastersugar2tbspDutch-processedcocoapowder,toserve

HAZELNUT‘BRITTLE’2tbspgoldensyrup(orlightcornsyrup)2tbspmaplesyrup(orclearhoney)2tbspcastersugar1/8tspsalt100gchoppedroastedhazelnuts

SWEETSHORTCRUSTPASTRY(YOUWILLONLYNEED½QUANTITY)300gplainflour90gicingsugar¼tspsalt200gunsaltedbutter,fridge-cold,cutintocubes,plusextraforgreasingfinelygratedzestof1

lemon(1tsp)

1largeeggyolk20mlwater

1Ifcrystallizingtherosemarysprigsforgarnishing,laythemflatonachoppingboardand,oneatatime,lightlybrusheachsidewiththeeggwhite.Sprinklethesugarevenlyandlightlyoverbothsidesoftheleaves,thensetasideinacool,dryplaceonawirerackforabout8hours,untilcrisp.

2Toinfusethechocolatecream,putthecream,butter,rosemaryandorangepeelintoasmallsaucepanandplaceoveralowheat.Whenthemixtureisjustcomingtoasimmerandthebutterhasmelted,turnofftheheatandsetasidetoinfuseforanhourortwo,orovernightinthefridge.

3Preheattheovento220°C/200°CFan/GasMark7.Tomakethe‘brittle’,placethegoldensyrup,maplesyrup,sugarandsaltinasmallsaucepanoveralowheatandstiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.Addthehazelnutsandmixuntilthenutsareevenlycoated,thentransferthemixturetoasmallparchment-linedbakingtrayandspreadthenutsoutwithaspoon.Bakefor7–8minutes,untilthemixtureisgoldenbrownandbubbling,thenremovefromtheovenandallowtocoolcompletelybeforeroughlychoppingitinto0.5cmpieces.Setasideuntilreadytouseandturnofftheoven.

4Forthepastry,sifttogethertheflour,icingsugarandsaltandplaceinafoodprocessor.Addthebutterandlemonzestandpulseafewtimes,untilthemixturehastheconsistencyoffreshbreadcrumbs.Lightlywhisktogethertheeggyolkandwaterandaddthistothemix:thedoughwillfeelquitewet,butthisisasitshouldbe.Processoncemore,justuntilthedoughcomestogether,thentipontoaclean,lightlyflouredworksurface.Lightlykneadthedoughintotheshapeofaballanddivideintotwoequalhalves.Wrapeachhalflooselyinclingfilmandpressgentlytoformtwoflattishdiscs.Thedoughisverysoft,soyouneedtosetitasideinthefridgeforatleast1hour(orupto3days).

5Tolinethetartcase,lightlygreaseyourchosentarttin,seeKitNote.Whenreadytorollout,allowthedoughtorestatroomtemperaturefor30minutes(ifithasbeeninthefridgeformorethanafewhours)andplaceonalightlyflouredworksurface.Tapalloverwitharollingpintosoftenslightlybeforerollingout,

untilit’sabout33cmwideand4mmthick.Drapethepastryoverthetinandgentlypressitintoplace,fillinganycracksthatyouhavewithalittleextrapastry.Trimifdesired,thenplacethepastryinthefridgeforatleast30minutestorestandchill.Theremainingpastrycanbefrozenforfutureuse.

6Toblindbakethetartcase,preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Linethetartcasewithalargepieceofparchmentpaper,coveringthebaseandsides.Fillwithbakingbeans(uncookedriceorpulsesalsoworkwell)andbakefor20minutes.Scoopoutthebeans/rice/pulses,liftofftheparchmentpaperandreturnthetarttotheoven.Bakethepastry,uncovered,foranother6or7minutes,oruntillightlygoldenanddry.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolfor10minutesbeforesprinklingthechoppedhazelnut‘brittle’alloverthebase.Setasideuntilneeded.

7Tomakethechocolatefilling,placethechocolateinaheatproofbowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater,makingsurethebaseofthebowlisn’ttouchingthewater.Returntheinfusedcreamtoalowheatandstirgentlyuntilhot.Strainthecreamoverthechocolate(therosemaryandorangepeelcanbediscarded),thenstirthechocolate(stilloverthepanofsimmeringwater)untilmeltedandsmooth.Removethebowlfromthepanandsetaside.

8Inthemeantime,placetheegg,yolksandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Whiskonamedium-highspeedforabout4minutes,untillightandthick.Foldathirdofthissabayonmixthroughthemeltedchocolate,thengentlytransferthelightenedchocolatemixbackintothesabayon.Foldthroughtofullycombine,thenscrapethechocolatefillingintothetartcase,overthehazelnut‘brittle’.Gentlysmoothoutthetopandbakefor12minutes.Removefromtheovenandsetasidefor20minutesorsotocool.Usingateastrainerorsmallsieve,siftthecocoapowderoverthetartjustbeforeserving.Ifusing,garnishwiththecrystallizedrosemarysprigsandservewithsomelightlywhippedcream,ifyoulike.

Thiscanbemadeina23or25cmflutedtarttinwitharemovablebase.

Thepastrywillmakemorethanyou’llneed.Itwillkeepwellinthefridge,wrappedinclingfilm,forupto3days.Italsofreezeswell,wrappedfirstinclingfilmandthenaluminiumfoil,forupto2months.Iffreezingthedough,dosoindiscform.The‘brittle’canbemadeupto5daysinadvanceandkeptinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature,orfrozenforupto1month.Don’tkeepitinthefridge,whereitwill‘weep’.Theinfusedcreamcanbepreparedupto1dayaheadandkeptinthefridge.Thecrystallizedrosemarysprigscanbemadeadayinadvanceandleftatroomtemperature,uncovered,untilreadytoserve.

Onceassembled,thetartisbesteatenonthedayitisbakedbutitwillkeepforupto2days,storedinanairtightcontainer.

Chocolatetartwithhazelnut,rosemaryandorange

WalnutandblacktreacletartswithcrystallizedsageTosaythisisavery‘treacly’treacletartmightseemliketautology,but,intheworldoftreacletarts,it’sanespeciallysoftandgooeyoffering.Aswellasbeingrichandsweet,though,it’sgotanedgeofmaltycrispnessfromtheadditionofthebranflakes.

Thecrystallizedsageleaveslookgreathereandneedtobepreparedinadvancesothattheycandry.Buttheycanbereplacedwithplainsageleaves,ifyoulike.Alternatively,youcanservethetartswithoutanygarnishatall,withagenerousamountofcrèmefraîcheorsomevanillaicecream.

SERVES8

CRYSTALLIZEDSAGEGARNISH(OPTIONAL)8mediumsageleaves1largeeggwhite,lightlywhisked25gcastersugar

FLAKYPASTRY200gplainflour120gunsaltedbutter,fridge-cold,cutinto1cmdice,plusextra,melted,forbrushing30g

castersugar¼tspsalt½tspwhitewinevinegar3tbspice-coldwater

FILLING180gwalnuthalves110gwholemealsourdoughbread(crustsremoved),roughlytorn(80gnet)50gbranflakesfinelygratedzestfrom1smallorange(1tsp)100gblacktreacle220ggoldensyrup30gunsaltedbutter100mldoublecream2largeeggs,lightlywhisked

1Ifcrystallizingthesageleavesforgarnishing,laythemflatonachoppingboardand,oneatatime,brusheachsidelightlywiththeeggwhite.Sprinklethesugarevenlyandlightlyoverbothsidesandsetonawirerackinacool,dryplacefor8hours,untilcrisp.

2Forthepastry,placetheflour,butter,sugarandsaltinthebowlofafoodprocessor.Blitzafewtimes,untilitistheconsistencyoffinebreadcrumbs,thenaddthevinegarandwater.Continuetoworkforafewseconds,thentransfertoyourworksurface.Shapeintoaballandflattenintoadisc,wrapinclingfilmandsetasideinthefridgeforabout1hour(orupto3days).

3Lightlybrusheightflutedtins,9cmwideand2cmdeep(oronelargertin;seeKitNote),withmeltedbutter.Whenreadytorollout,allowthedoughtorestatroomtemperaturefor30minutes(ifithasbeeninthefridgeformorethanafewhours)andplaceonalightlyflouredworksurface.Rolloutthedoughuntiljustunder0.5cmthick,thencutouteightcircles,14cmwide,andtransfertotheflutedtins.Re-rollthedough,ifnecessary,togeteightcircles.Ifyouaremakingonelargetart,rolloutthedoughtoforma34cmwidecircle.Gentlypressthepastryintothecornersofthetarttinssothatitfitssnugly.Therewillbesomepastryhangingoverthesidesofthetins,butdon’ttrimitatthisstage.Placeinthefridgefor30minutestoallowthepastrytorest.

4Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Spreadthewalnutsoutonabakingtrayandcookintheovenfor10minutes,untilgoldenbrown.Setasidetocoolandincreasetheoventemperatureto200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.

5Toblindbakethetartcases,linethecaseswithsquaresofbakingparchmentorpaperlinersandfillwithbakingbeans.Bakefor18–20minutes(or25minutesforthelargertart),untilthepastryisgoldenbrownattheedges.Removethebeansandpaperandcookforanother10minutes,or12minutesforthelargertart,untilthebaseisgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocool.

6Tomakethefilling,placethebreadandbranflakesinthesmallbowlofafoodprocessorandblitztoformfinecrumbs.Transfertoalargebowlandthenblitz100gofthewalnutstoafinecrumbinthefoodprocessor.Addthesetothebreadcrumbmixalongwiththeorangezest.Roughlychoptheremainingwalnutsandaddtothebowl.Mixtocombineandsetaside.

7Puttheblacktreacle,goldensyrupandbutterinasmallsaucepanandplaceoverahighheat.Cookfor2–3minutes,stirringfrequently,untilthebutterhasmeltedandthesyrupisrunny.Pourintothebowlwiththebreadcrumbmix,combinewellandstirthroughthecreamandeggs.Pourthetreaclemixtureintothetartshellsandbakefor17minutes(thelargertartwillneedaminuteortwolonger),untiljustset.

8Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolforabout20minutesbeforetrimmingthepastryedges:thiscanbedonebysnappingofftheoverhangingedgeswithyourfingersorbyrunningasmallknifearoundtheoutsideofthetin.Removefromthetinsandservewarmoratroomtemperaturewithacrispysageleafontopandsomecrèmefraîcheoricecreamalongside.

Youwillneedeightmini-flutedtarttins,9cmwideand2cmdeep.Alternatively,youcanmakethisinonelargeflutedtarttin,26or27cmwideand3cmdeep.

Thepastrycanbemadeupto3daysaheadandkeptinthefridge(wrappedinclingfilm)untilreadytoroll.Itcanalsobefrozenforupto2months.Thesageleavesneedtobemadeinadvanceinordertodry,andshouldbeleftatroomtemperature,uncovered,untilreadytoserve.Theycanbemadeadayinadvance.

Onceassembled,thetartsarebesteatenonthedaytheyarebaked.Theystilltastegreatfor2or3daysafterwards:they’lljusthavelosttheircrispness.

FigandpistachiofrangipanetartletsThesereceivedanofficialonline‘thumbs-up’whenYotampostedapictureofthemfromthedisplayofourBelgraviashop.ThestunninglyInstagrammablepicture–withthecutsideofthefigsfacingupinthetarts–wasfloodedwiththousandsof‘likes’.Theyarelovelyastheyare,orservedwithaspoonfulofvanillaicecream,souredcreamorcrèmefraîchealongside.

Ifyoucan’tgetlargefigs,usesixsmalleronesslicedinhalf(ratherthanquarters).Alternatively,raspberriesworkjustaswell:placethreelargeraspberriesinthecentreofeachtartandbakeasusual.

Aswithmanyofourrecipeswhichcallforanipofbrandy,don’tworryifyoudon’thaveanopenbottletohand.It’snotthereforitsownflavoursomuchastodrawoutthesubtleflavourofthepistachios,butthetartletsworkfinewithoutit.

MAKES12

SWEETSHORTCRUSTPASTRY(YOUWILLONLYNEED2/3QUANTITY)300gplainflour,plusextrafordusting90gicingsugar¼tspsalt200gunsaltedbutter,fridge-cold,cutintocubes,plusanextra10g,melted,forbrushing

finelygratedzestof1lemon(1tsp)1largeeggyolk20mlwater

PISTACHIOFRANGIPANECREAM90gshelledpistachios,plusextra,blitzed,tofinish(optional)35ggroundalmonds35gplainflour1/8tspsalt125gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature125gcastersugarfinelygratedzestof1lemon(1tsp)2largeeggs,lightlybeaten1tbspbrandy(optional)3largeripefigs,quartered,or6smallerfigs,halved(180g)

1Tomakethepastry,sifttogethertheflour,icingsugarandsaltandplaceinafoodprocessor.Addthebutterandlemonzestandpulseafewtimes,untilthemixturehastheconsistencyoffreshbreadcrumbs.Lightlywhisktogethertheeggyolkandwaterandaddthistothemix:thedoughwillfeelquitewet,butthisisasitshouldbe.Processoncemore,justuntilthedoughcomestogether,thentipontoaclean,lightlyflouredworksurface.Lightlykneadthedoughintoaball,wraplooselyinclingfilmandpressgentlytoformaflattishdisc.Thedoughisverysoft,soyouneedtokeepitinthefridgeforatleast1hour(orupto3days).

2Lightlybrushthemouldsofaregularmuffintinwiththemeltedbutteranddustwithflour,tappingawaytheexcess.

3Whenreadytorollout,allowthedoughtorestatroomtemperaturefor30minutes(ifithasbeeninthefridgeformorethanafewhours)andplaceonalightlyflouredworksurface.Tapalloverwitharollingpintosoftenslightlybeforerollingoutuntil2–3mmthick.Usinga10or11cmroundcookiecutter(oralternative,seehere),cutouttwelvecirclesandgentlyeasetheseintothemuffinmoulds,pressingdowntofillthemoulds.Re-rollthepastry,ifnecessary,untilyougettwelvecircles.Refrigerateforatleast1hourbeforeblind-bakingthecases.Theremainingthirdofthedoughcanbefrozenforfutureuse.

4Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

5Toblindbakethetartcases,linethepastrycaseswithbakingparchmentorpaperliners.Fillwithalayerofriceordriedbeansandbakefor25–30minutes,oruntilthepastryshellsarealightgoldenbrownaroundtheedges.Removetheparchmentpaperorlinersandthericeorbeansandsettheshellsasidetocoolinthetin.

6Tomakethefrangipanecream,placethepistachiosinthesmallbowlofafoodprocessorandgrinduntilfinebutnotoily.Transfertoasmallbowl,mixinthegroundalmonds,flourandsaltandsetaside.

7Placethebutter,sugarandlemonzestinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Creamonamediumspeedfor1–2minutes,untillightbutnottoofluffy.Reducethespeedtolowandgraduallyaddthebeateneggs.Don’tworryifthemixturecurdlesabitatthisstage:itwillbebroughtbacktogetherlater.Addthenut/flourmix,beatonalowspeeduntilcombinedand,

finally,addthebrandy(ifusing).

8Increasetheoventemperatureto200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.

9Whenreadytobake,useapipingbagortwodessertspoonstofillthebakedtartcases(stillinthemuffintin)withthefrangipane:itshouldriseabouttwo-thirdsofthewayupthesidesofthecases.Placeaquarter(orhalf)ofafiginthemiddleofeachtart,cutsidefacingup,pressingdownverylightlysothatit’sslightlyembeddedinthemixture.Oncetheyareallfilled,bakethetartsforabout20minutes,untilthefrangipaneisstartingtobrownattheedgesbutthemiddleremainsslightlysoft.Setasidetocoolinthetinfor10minutesbeforeeasingthetartsoutofthemouldsandplacingonawirerack.Thetartscaneitherbeservedwarmorlefttocometoroomtemperature.Servesprinkledwithblitzedpistachios,ifyoulike.

Thepastrywillmakemorethanyou’llneed.Itwillkeepwellinthefridge,wrappedinclingfilm,forupto3days.Italsofreezeswell,wrappedfirstinclingfilmandthenaluminiumfoil,forupto2months.Iffreezingthedough,dosoindiscformor,ifplanningtomakeindividualtarts,rollitoutandcutittosizesothatyou’reallsetforyournextbake.Thefrangipanecanbemadeupto2daysinadvanceandkeptinthefridgeuntilreadytouse.Itwillsetreasonablyfirm,soremoveitfromthefridge30minutesbeforeyouwanttofillthetarts.

Onceassembled,thesearebesteatenonthedaytheyarebaked.Theywillkeepforupto2days,storedinanairtightcontainer:youcaneatthematroomtemperatureorheatthemthroughfor5minutesbeforeserving.

Figandpistachiofrangipanetartlets

Schiacciatawithgrapesandfennelseeds

Thisisneitheratartnorapie,weknow.Butintheabsenceofabreadoryeastedchapter,temporarylodgingshavebeenfoundherefortheschiacciata.It’sadeliciousalternativetobreadatbreakfast,butgreatasasnackorbeforeamealanytimeoftheday.It’sbasicallyaverythinfocacciawith–thankstotheoil–anicecrispbottom.Makingyourownbreadisalwaysrewarding,butwhentherewardsarecoupledwithverylittleeffort,asisthecasehere,itfeelslikeadoublewin.

Weusenormalblackgrapeshere,astheyareeasytocomeby.IfyoucanfindItalianStrawberrygrapes(UvaFragola)orMuscatgrapes,you’llgetanextralayerofsweetflavourhere.

SERVES4–6

330gstrongwhitebreadflour,plusextrafordusting¾tspactivedriedyeast200mllukewarmwater(about40°C)about100mloliveoil1largeeggyolk3½tbspdarkmuscovadosugar2tspflakyseasalt250gseedlessblackgrapes,halvedlengthways1tbspfennelseeds,lightlycrushedinapestleandmortar2tsppolenta

1Placehalftheflourinthebowlofanelectricmixerandaddtheyeast.Pouroverthewaterandstirwelltoformawetdough.Coverwithclingfilmandsetasidefor1hour,inawarmanddraught-freeplace,forthedoughtoriseslightly.

2Transferthedoughtoafoodmixerwiththedoughhookattachmentinplace.Addtheremainingflour,1tablespoonofoil,theeggyolk,1½teaspoonsofsugarand1teaspoonofsalt.Beatonamedium-lowspeedfor6minutes,untilthemixturecomestogetherintoastickyball.Transfertoalargebowlwhichhas

beenbrushedwith1tablespoonofoil,coverwithclingfilmandsetasidefor1houruntildoubledinsize.

3Placethegrapesinasmallbowlwiththefennelseedsand2tablespoonsofsugar.Mixtogetherandsetasideinawarmplaceforatleast1hour.

4Preheattheovento250°C/230°CFan/GasMark9.

5Tipthedoughontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandpullintoalarge40x30cmrectangle–eitherstretchitbyhandorusearollingpin,ifthathelps.Brusha40x30cmbakingtraywith3tablespoonsofoilandsprinkleevenlywiththepolenta.Transferthedoughontothebakingtray,stretchingouttheedgestofitsnugly.Brushwiththeremaining2tablespoonsofoil,thenspoonoverthegrapemixture,mashingsomeofthegrapeswithyourfingersasyougo.Sprinklethefinaltablespoonofsugar,alongwiththeremaining1teaspoonofsalt,evenlyoverthedoughandleavetorestforafurther10minutes.

6Placeintheovenandbakefor12–14minutes,rotatingthetrayhalfwaythrough,untilthedoughiscrispandadeepgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandletcoolslightlyfor10–15minutesbeforeservingwarm.

Youwillneedalargebakingtray,around40x30cm.

Thebreadisbesteatenwhilestillwarmandcrunchy,butanyleftoverswillkeepforuptoaday.

Schiacciatawithgrapesandfennelseeds

Apricotandthymegaletteswithpolentapastry

We’resousedtousingfreshfruitforthecakesandpastriesinourshopsthatit’seasytobecomeabitsnobbyabouttinnedfruit.Whenafruithasaveryshortseason,suchasapricots,however,tinnedcanoftenbeagreatoption.Itmeansthattheyareavailableyearroundandthatthequalityisconsistentlyhigh.Tinnedpeachesalsoworkwell,ifyouwanttoplayaround.Mixingsomepolentathroughthedoughhereiswhatgivesthebakedpastryitswonderfulcrunch.

MAKES6

POLENTAPASTRY90gplainflour45gquick-cookpolenta25gcastersugar90gunsaltedbutter,fridge-cold,cutinto1cmpieces1/8tspsalt1tbspcoldwater

TOPPING2x400gtinsofapricothalves,insyrup,or9–12freshapricots(dependingonsize),halved40g

runnyhoney,slightlywarm60gapricotjam,toglaze1½tbspwater

PASTRYCREAM100mlfull-fatmilkscrapedseedsof¼vanillapod1tspthymeleaves,finelychopped,plusanextra1tsppickedleaves,togarnish10gunsalted

butter20gcastersugar1largeeggyolk1½tspcornflour1tspplainflour

1Forthepastry,placealltheingredientsexceptforthewaterinafoodprocessor.Blitztogetheruntilthemixturehastheconsistencyofbreadcrumbs.Addthewaterandcontinuetoblitz,justuntilthedoughcomestogether.Tipthedoughontoacleanworksurfaceandkneadgently:youjustwanttobringittogetherwithoutover-workingit.Wraplooselyinclingfilm,flattenintoarectangleandstoreinthefridgeforabout1hour.

2Tomakethecream,placethemilk,vanilla,thyme,butterandhalfthesugarinasmallsaucepan.Heatgentlyuntilthemilkisjustcomingtoasimmerandbubblesarebeginningtoformaroundthesides.

3Inthemeantime,combinetheeggyolkwiththeremainingsugar,cornflourandplainflourinamediumbowlandwhisktogethertoformapaste.Justasthemilkiscomingtoasimmer,slowlywhiskhalfofitintotheeggyolkmixture.Ithelpstohaveadampclothunderneaththebowltosteadyitwhileyouwhiskwithonehandandpourwiththeother.Oncecombined,whiskthisbackintotheremaininghotmilkandcookoveramedium-lowheatfor3–5minutes,untilverythickandsmooth.Checkitisreadybyliftingsomeofthemixtureoutofthepanonthewhisk:itshouldslowlydropoff.Transferthecustardtoacleanbowlorjug,coverwithclingfilm–youwantittobeactuallytouchingthesurfaceofthecustardtopreventitformingaskin–andsetasideinthefridgeuntilcompletelycool.

4Removethepastryfromthefridgeafewminutesbeforerollingitout,sothatitbecomesmalleable.Lineabakingtray(thatwillfitinyourfridge)withbakingparchment.

5Rolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredsurfacetoforma45x15cmrectangle,0.5cmthick.Trimtheedgessothatitisapproximately42x13cmandcutthisintosixsmallerrectangles,eachabout7x13cm.Placeonthelinedbakingtrayand,onerectangleatatime,foldinallthesidesby1cmtoformasecondlayerthatwillholdinthepastrycreamandfruit:itwilllookquiterusticbutthisisasitshouldbe.Placeinthefridgetochillforabout30minutes.

6Toassembleandbakethetarts,preheattheovento210°C/190°CFan/GasMark6.Spreadthepastrycreamevenlyoverthebaseofthegalettes.Forthetopping,placethedrainedapricotsinamediumbowlandpourthehoneyover

thetop.Mixwell,thenlayfourorfiveapricotsontopofthepastrycreaminonelongline,cutsideupandtightlyoverlappingby0.5cm.Placethebakingtrayintheovenandbakeforabout35minutes,oruntilthepastryisdarkgoldenbrownaroundtheedges,goldenbrownunderneathandtheapricotsarenicelycolouredaroundtheedges.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolfor15minutesbeforetransferringtoawireracktocool.

7Maketheglazewhilethegalettesarestillslightlywarm.Placetheapricotjamandwaterinasmallsaucepanoveramedium-highheat.Stiruntiltheapricotjamhasdissolved,thenallowthemixturetoboilforabout1minute,stirringcontinuously,untilthick.Immediatelybrushtheglazeoverthetopoftheapricotsandpastryandsprinkleovertheextrateaspoonofthymeleaves.Setasideuntilreadytoserve.

Thepastrycanbemadeuptoaweekinadvanceandkeptinthefridge,orkeptinthefreezerforuptoamonth.Thepastrycreamcanbemade2daysinadvanceandstoredinthefridge.

Onceassembled,thesearebesteatenonthedaytheyarebaked.They’restillfinethefollowingday,storedinthefridgeovernight;eitherbringthembacktoroomtemperaturebeforeeatingor,betterstill,warmthemthroughgentlyintheoven.

Apricotandthymegaletteswithpolentapastry

Pineappletartletswithpandanandstaranise

AroundChineseNewYear,pineappletartsaretoMalaysiaandSingaporewhatmincepiesaretotheUKandAustraliaaroundChristmas.Peoplevoteandargueaboutwheretofindthebestoneorwhohastheperfectrecipe.Ourversionusesthesweetshortcrustpastryweuseforalotofpiesandtarts:it’sbutteryandslightlycrumblyinthemouth,butsturdyenoughtoholdthestickypineapplejam.Inotherwords,delicious.Speakingofmincepies,thejamcanbereplacedbystore-boughtmincemeat,ifyoulike:thepastrycasemakesaverygoodmincepiebase.

MAKES18

PINEAPPLEJAM2largepineapples(2.8kg),peeled,coreremovedandfleshroughlychoppedinto4–5cmcubes

(about1.3kg)360gcastersugar6pandanleaves,bruisedwiththebackofaknifeandtiedtogetherinaknot(or¼vanillapod,

slicedinhalflengthwaysandseedsscraped)6wholestaranise

SWEETSHORTCRUSTPASTRY(YOUWILLONLYNEED½QUANTITY)300gplainflour90gicingsugar¼tspsalt200gunsaltedbutter,fridge-cold,cutintocubes,plusanextra10g,melted,forbrushing

finelygratedzestof1lemonorlime(1tsp)1largeeggyolk(plusanextralargeegg,lightlywhisked,toglaze)20mlcoldwater18wholecloves,forstuddingthetarts

1Tomakethejam,placethepineappleinafoodprocessor(inbatches)andpulsetoformacoarsepurée.Strainthroughafinesieveintoabowl;don’tactuallypressdownonthepurée:youjustwanttostrainouttheexcessjuiceratherthanextractanymorefromthepineappleflesh.Thestrainedjuice(about

250ml)canbeusedtomakeicelolliesorasarefreshingdrinkoverice.

2Placethepineapplepuréeinalargesaucepan.Addthesugar,pandanleaves(orvanillapodandscrapedseeds)andstaranise.Placeoveramedium-lowheatandstirjustuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Increasetheheattomedium,bringtoaboilandcookforabout1hour,stirringwithawoodenspoonevery5or10minutes,untilthemixturethickens.Takecareasitmaysplutterandspit,andkeepacloseeyeonitasitthickens:youmightneedtolowertheheathalfwaythroughthecookingtimeandstirmorefrequently,topreventitcatchingonthebottomofthepan.Youwanttotakeitfurtherthanregularjam:itwillbereadywhenitisathickgoldenpasteandholdsitsshapewhenspoonedontoaplate.Removefromtheheatandallowtocoolinthepanforhalfanhourbeforetransferringtoabowl(oranairtightcontainer,ifmakinginadvancetostoreinthefridge).Setasideuntilcompletelycoolbeforeremovingthepandanleaves(orvanillapod)andstaranise.Keepinthefridgeuntilreadytoassemblethetartlets.

3Tomakethepastry,sifttogethertheflour,icingsugarandsaltandplaceinafoodprocessor.Addthebutterandlemonorlimezestandpulseafewtimes,untilthemixturehastheconsistencyoffreshbreadcrumbs.Lightlywhisktogethertheeggyolkandwaterandaddthistothemix:thedoughwillfeelquitewet,butthisisasitshouldbe.Processoncemore,justuntilthepastrycomestogether,thentipontoaclean,lightlyflouredworksurface.Pressorpatgentlytoformaball,thendividethepastryintwo.Wrapeachhalflooselyinclingfilmandpressgentlytoformtwoflattishdiscs.Thepastryisverysoftsoyouneedtokeepitinthefridgeforatleast1hour(orupto3days).

4Brushthemouldsofthemincepieorregularmuffintinwithmeltedbutter(seeKitNote)andsetaside.

5Whenreadytobake,allowthepastrytorestatroomtemperaturefor30minutes(ifithasbeeninthefridgeformorethanafewhours)andplaceonalightlyflouredworksurface,workingwithonediscofpastryatatime.Tapalloverwitharollingpintosoftenslightlybeforerollingoutuntil2mmthick.Usinga7cmcookiecutter,stampouteighteencirclesandplaceoneineachgreasedmould.Re-rollthepastry,ifnecessary,untilyougeteighteencircles.Setasideinthefridgetorest.Theremainingpastrydisccanbefrozenforfutureuse.

6Pressthepastryoffcuts(fromtheuseddisc)togetherandrollintoaroughrectangle,about2mmthick.Cutthepastryintostrips,about6x0.5cm:thesewillformthelatticetodecoratethetarts.Transfertoabakingtrayandkeepinthefridgeuntilreadytouse.

7Tobakethetarts,preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Spoonaheapedtablespoonofthepineapplejam–about30g–intoeachpastrycase(don’tthinkyou’vemissedastephere:thecasesarenotblind-baked)andlevelthesurfacewiththebackofateaspoon.Ifthekitcheniswarmandthepastryissoftening,returnthetraystothefridgeforafewminutes.Placethestripsofpastryontopofthetartstoformalatticeshape(theeasiestwaytodothisistofirstlaytwoorthreestripsparalleltoeachotherandthenlayanothertwoorthreeontop)oranyotherpattern.Trimtheendswithaparingknifetofitandpresstheendsintotheedgeofthepastry.

8Brushthebeateneggoverthepastrytop,pushawholecloveintothecentreofeachtartletandbakeforabout20minutes,oruntilthepastryisgoldenbrownallover.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolinthetrayfor10minutesbeforetransferringtoawireracktocoolcompletely.Removetheclovesbeforeeating!

Weusetraditionalmincepietinstobakethese.Ideallyyou’dhavetwosetsforthisrecipe,butdon’tworryifyouonlyhaveone:youcanjustbakethetartsintwobatches.Theyalsoworkwellinaregularmuffintin.

Thepastrywillmakemorethanyou’llneed.Itwillkeepwellinthefridge,wrappedinclingfilm,forupto3days.Italsofreezeswell,wrappedfirstinclingfilmandthenaluminiumfoil,forupto2months.Iffreezingthedough,dosoindiscformor,ifplanningtomakeindividualtarts,rollitoutandcutittosizesothatyou’reallsetforyournextbake.Thepineapplejamcanbemadeupto2weeksinadvanceandkeptinthefridge.Makedoublethequantityofjam,ifyoulike,sothatyoualwayshaveabatchatthereadytospreadontoastorpancakes,toswirlintoyoghurt,ortouseaspartofamarinadeforchickenorpork.

Onceassembled,thetartswillkeepforupto3–4days,storedinanairtightcontainer:thejammyfillingjustmeanstheywillgetabitsofterovertime.

Pineappletartletswithpandanandstaranise

Desserts

You’resometimesunawareofabiasuntilthestatsarelaidout.Withalmosttwenty‘desserts’here,therearenolessthanthirteenwithfruitandfivewithasplashofbooze.Theevidenceisclear:welikeourfruit,welikeourbooze,andweverymuchlikeourdesserts.

FRUIT›Welikefruitinourdessertsforallsortsofreasons.Notonlydoesitlendabrightsplashofcolourtotheendofameal,italsohastheabilitytocutthroughandlightenanotherwiserichorcreamydessert.OrangeCapegooseberries,purpleblackberries,darkpinkraspberries–allhavethecolouryouwantandthetartnessadessertoftenneeds.Thecitrusfromthezestofalimewilllightenthingsupinarichchocolatepudding;raspberriesorblackberrieswillcutthroughthewhippedcreaminapavlova;whilefreshcubesofpapayaarejustwhatarichlittlepossetneeds.Alwaysfeelfreetoplayaroundwiththefruitinadessert,dependingonwhat’sinseason.Justmakesurethatit’sperfectlyripeandready:comparingaripemangoorpapayawithanunripemangoorpapayais,well,likecomparingapplesandpears.

BOOZE›Welikeboozeinourdessertsforallsortsofreasons,too.One,ofcourse,isthatit’sjustanicewaytokeepthepartygoing.However,thepresenceofanipofbrandyinourdessertsisoftentherenotsomuchforthesakeofcelebrationbutbecauseofthewayitdrawsouttheotherflavours:soakingraisinsorapplesinbrandy,forexample,doesmoretoheightentheinherentflavouroftheraisinsorapplesthantoshowcasetheflavourofthebrandy.Don’topenabottlejustforthesakeofacoupleofteaspoonsortablespoons,though.Therearesomerecipesherewhichneedthealcohol–theCampariandGrapefruitSorbet(seehere),forexample–butalotoftheothers–thesaucefortheChocolate,RoseandWalnutIceCream(seehere)orthecaramelsaucefortheFrozenEspressoParfait(seehere),forexample–stilltasteabsolutelydeliciouswithoutit.Somedessertsareforallthekids,bigandsmall;somearejustreservedforthebigkidsamongstus.

ASMALLNOTEONEPIC-NESS›‘Epic’feelslikeawordthat,beingovertheageoftwelve,weshouldn’treallybeusing,butthere’sahandfulofdessertsherewhichare,well,justprettyepic.Epicasinyouhavetogetalittlebitorganizedtomakethem;epicasinyou’llbehigh-fivingtheairwhenyou’vemadeitforthefirsttime;epicasinyou’reguaranteeda‘wow-eeeeee’whenyoubringittothetable.Not,however,epicasin‘don’ttrythisoneathome’.

Oneofthebiggestsecretsbehindsomeofthemostinvolvedrecipesisthatthey’reoftensomeoftheeasiesttomake.Thisisbecauseofhowmuchcanbepreparedandachievedinadvance.Somethingscanbemadeinadvance–meringuescanbebaked,nutscanbecaramelized,spongescanbecooked;somethingsneedtobemadeinadvance–theGingerCrèmeCaramel(seehere)andKaffirLimeLeafPosset(seehere)bothneedtosetovernightinthefridge,whileothersareanicecombinationofmostofthecomponentsbeingmadeinadvance,leavingjustthewhippingofcreamandtheassemblingofthedessertbeforeserving.Andthat’sthefunbit,really:makingeverythinglookpretty.

Whateverthereasonandwhatevertheseason,there’salwaysadesserttofit:epicoreasy,boozyornot,comfortingorhearty,zestyorlight.Butfruity,verynearlyalwaysfruity.

Kit

Anicecreammakeristheobviousonehere,ifyouareplanningonmakingicecreamregularly.Theyarequiteaninvestment,weknow,butonethatcanbringalotofpleasureovertheyears.Althoughsomeoftheicecreamsneedanicecreammaker–theSaffronandAlmondIceCreamSandwich(seehere)andChocolate,RoseandWalnutIceCream(seehere)–othersaresemifreddos–theraspberrysemifreddofortheKnickerbockerGlory(seehere),forexample–whichmeansthatwhippedcreamisfoldedin(ratherthanchurnedinanicecreammaker).Ifyouwanttomakeicecreamanddon’thaveanicecreammaker,that’sfine:youcanchurnityourself,stirringthemixeveryfewhourstobreakuptheformationoficecrystalsbeforereturningittothefreezer.Thisprocessisstretchedoverafewhours,buttheactualconsumptionofyourtimeisverylittle.

Otherwise,thekitwerecommendisuseful,thoughnotessential:apipingbagfortheCapeGooseberryPavlova(seehere)andFrozenEspressoParfait(seehere);a20cmsquareloose-basedtinfortheGingerbread(seehere)andFrozenEspressoParfait;a23or25cmroundflutedquichedishfortheGingerCrèmeCaramel(seehere);littleglassramekinsordariolemouldsfortheHotChocolateandLimePudding(seehere);andanon-stickcrêpepantomakeyoulookthepartwhenpreparingtheRicottaCrêpeswithFigs,HoneyandPistachio(seehere).Weknowthattheidealworldisfarremovedfromtherealityofourdrawersandcupboards,however,whichdowelltohavematchingTupperwarebasesandlids,sofeelfreetoeitherbeg,borroworimprovise.Anddon’tforgettomakeanoteofthekityou’dlikeinthatidealkitchenofyoursonyourbirthdaywishlist.Asever,we’vemadealternativekitsuggestionsintherecipeswherewecan.

RecipeListRolledpavlovawithpeachesandblackberries

GingerbreadwithbrandyapplesandcrèmefraîcheRicottacrêpeswithfigs,honeyandpistachio

RicepuddingwithroastedrhubarbandtarragonCapegooseberrypavlova

HotchocolateandlimepuddingsGingercrèmecaramel

YoghurtpannacottawithbasilandcrushedstrawberriesKaffirlimeleafpossetwithfreshpapaya

StickyfigpuddingwithsaltedcaramelandcoconuttoppingPotbarleypuddingwithroastedapplesanddatesyrup

Cinnamonpavlova,pralinecreamandfreshfigsKnickerbockerglory

FrozenespressoparfaitforacrowdSaffronandalmondicecreamsandwich

CampariandgrapefruitsorbetPricklypearsorbet

Lemon,yoghurtandjuniperberryicecreamChocolate,roseandwalnuticecream

Rolledpavlovawithpeachesandblackberries

Thisistheshowstoppertoserveaspartofabigsummermeal–arealstatement!–hugeanddivine.Don’tbeputoffbyitssize,though:thelargerpavlovasareactuallyeasiertorollthanthesmallerones.There’salwaysamomentwhenrollingapavlovawhenyouthink‘It’snotgoingtocometogether!’,butholdyournerveandtrustintherecipe:it’sactuallyveryforgiving.

Wepairlate-summerpeacheswiththeblackberriesofearlyautumn,butmeringueissoversatilethatyoucanaddwhateverfruitfillingyoulike,dependingonwhat’sinseason:freshberries–raspberries,strawberries,blueberries–slow-cookedquinceorplums:theyallworkwell.Youcanalsoplayaroundwithfillings.Tryvanillaandchoppedpistachioswithstrawberry(ormixedberries);ormango,limeandpassionfruitworkswellwithwhippedcreamflavouredwithfinelygratedlimezest.

SERVES10–12

250geggwhites(from6largeeggs,soyoumightwanttobuyeggwhitesinacarton),atroomtemperature(theywhiskbetterifnotfridge-cold)375gcastersugar

2tspvanillaextract2tspwhitewinevinegar2tspcornflour

FILLING400mldoublecream1tspvanillaextract30gicingsugar,sifted,plusextratodust5large,ripepeaches,washedbutunpeeled,stoneremovedandcutinto0.5cmwidesegments

(600g)300gfreshblackberries60gtoastedflakedalmonds

1Preheattheovento220°C/200°CFan/GasMark7.Linea35x30cmshallowbakingtraywithbakingparchment,sothepaperrises2cmoverthesidesofthetin.

2Tomakethemeringuebase,placetheeggwhitesinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplaceandwhiskonamedium-highspeedforabout1minute,untilsoftpeaksform.Graduallyaddthesugaratablespoonatatime,whiskingallthetimeforatleast5minutes,untilthemixtureturnsintoathickandglossymeringue.Reducethespeedtolowandaddthevanillaextract,vinegarandcornflour.Increasethespeedtomediumandwhiskforaminute,untilfullycombined.

3Spoonthemeringuemixintothelinedtinanduseaspatulatospreaditoutevenlyinthetray.Placeinthepreheatedovenandimmediatelylowerthetemperatureto200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6:thecontrastintemperaturehelpscreatethecrispoutsidealongwiththegooeymarshmallow-likeinside.Bakeforabout35minutes,untilthemeringueispalebeigeincolourandcrustyontop.Removefromtheovenandsetasideuntilcompletelycool.Themeringuewillhavepuffedupintheovenbutwilldeflateslightlywhencooled.Ifkeepinguntilthenextday,themeringuecannowbecoveredwithateatowelandsetasideatroomtemperature.

4Tomakethefilling,beatthecreamuntilverysoftpeaksform–thisshouldtakeabout1minuteusinganelectricwhiskonamedium-highspeed,longerifwhiskingbyhand.Addthevanillaandicingsugarandwhisktoincorporate.

5Placeacleanteatowelflatontopofthemeringue(orusetheonethatisalreadythere,ifyou’vemadethisthedaybefore)andquicklybutcarefullyinvertitontotheworksurface,sothatthecrisptopofthemeringueisnowfacingdownandsittingontopoftheteatowel.Liftthetinoffandcarefullypeelawaythebakingparchmentbeforespreadingthemeringueevenlywithtwo-thirdsofthewhippedcream.Covergenerouslywith500gslicedpeachesand200gblackberries,andsprinkleover50galmonds.

6Torollthemeringue,startwiththelongestsideclosesttoyouand,usingtheteatoweltoassistyou,rollthemeringueupandover,sothattheedgescometogethertoformalog.Gentlypullawaytheteatowelasyouroll,thenslidethe

meringueontoalongtrayoraplatter,withtheseamsidefacingdown.Don’tworryifthemeringuelosesitsshapeabitorsomeofthefruitspillsout:justholdyournerveanduseyourhandstopatitbackintotheshapeofthelog.

7Pipeorspoontheremainingcreamdownthelengthoftheroulade.Topwiththeremainingfruit,10galmonds,adustingoficingsugarandserve.

Themeringuebase(unfilled)canbeprepareduptoadayahead.Leaveitinthetinanddrapewithateatoweluntilneeded.Youarethenreadytofillitwiththefruitandcreamupto4hoursbefore(butideallyascloseaspossibleto)serving.

Thisshouldbeeatenonthedayitisassembledandserved,althoughleftoverscanbestoredinthefridgeandeatencold.

Rolledpavlovawithpeachesandblackberries

Gingerbreadwithbrandyapplesandcrèmefraîche

Thiscanbeservedwarm,asadessert,withthesautéedapplesandcrèmefraîche,oronitsownatroomtemperature,withacupoftea.Wefindthatwecaneatmoreofthecakewhenit’swarm,whichiswhythesameamountofcakeservesadifferentnumberofpeopledependingonwhetheritiseatenatroomtemperatureornot.Paradoxically,it’stheadditionoftheextras–theslightlytangycrèmefraîchecuttingthroughthesweetnessofthetreacleandtheapples–thatenablesabiggerportiontobeserved!

SERVES9(WARM,ASADESSERT)ORABOUT12(ATROOMTEMPERATURE)

300gblacktreacle(orblackstrapmolasses)100gsoftlightbrownsugar120gcastersugar220gunsaltedbutter,meltedandcooledslightly3largeeggsfinelygratedzestof1orange(1½tsp)400gplainflour1tbspbicarbonateofsoda1tbspgroundginger2tspgroundcinnamon½tspsalt300mljust-boiledwater100gstemginger,roughlychoppedinto0.5cmpieces400gcrèmefraîche,ifservingasadessert(seeintroduction)APPLES5GoldenDeliciousorPinkLadyapples(700g)50gunsaltedbutter120gcastersugar½vanillapod,slicedopenlengthwaysstripsofpeelof1largelemon50mlbrandy50mllemonjuice1/8tspsalt

1Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Greasea20cmsquare(orround)springformtinandlinewithbakingparchment,leavinganoverhangatthesidestohelpyouremovethecakefromthetinlateron.

2Placethetreacle,brownsugar,castersugar,butter,eggsandorangezestinamediumbowlandwhisktogetherbyhand,orusingahand-heldelectricwhisk,untilcombined.

3Sifttheflour,bicarbonateofsoda,ginger,cinnamonandsalttogetherintoaseparatelargerbowl,thenpouroverthetreaclemixture.Stirtocombineandaddthejust-boiledwater,whiskingimmediatelytocombine.Stirthroughthestemginger,thenpourthemixtureintothecaketin.Bakefor50minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentrecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandsetasideonawireracktocoolfor10minutesbeforetransferringtoaservingplatter.

4Whilethecakeiscooling,peelandcoretheapplesandcutinto1–1.5cmslices.Placealargenon-sticksautépanoverahighheatand,oncehot,addaboutathirdorhalfoftheapples(dependingonthesizeofyourpan:youdon’twantthemtobeovercrowdedasthiswillpreventthembecominggolden).Searfor2minutes,turningregularly,untiltheyareanicegoldencolour.Removefromthepan,wipecleanandrepeatwiththeremainingapples.Addthesetothefirstbatchandreturnthepantoamediumheat.Placethebutterinthepanand,oncemelted,addthesugar,vanillapodandlemonpeel.Returntheapplestothepan,stirwelltocoatandcookfor5minutes,untiltheapplesaresoftbutstillholdingtheirshape.Pouroverthebrandy,lemonjuiceandsaltandreducefor3minutesoveramedium-highheat,untilthesauceisthickbutnotcaramelized.

5Ifservingwarm,spoonsomeofthewarmedapplesontopofeachportionofgingerbreadandaddaspoonfulofcrèmefraîchealongside.

Thisisbestmadeinahigh-sided(9–10cmhigh)20cmsquarespringformtin,butifyoudon’thaveoneofthesethenuseahigh-sided20cmroundspringformtininstead.Ifyougofortheroundoption,you’llmakeeightlargeslicesortwelveregularslices.Italsolooksgreatmadeina23cmbundttin,asphotographed.

Thecakecanbemadeupto3daysinadvanceandkeptatroomtemperatureinanairtightcontainer.Ifyou’reservingitasadessert,justwarmitthroughintheoven,coveredwithfoil.Theapplesarebestmadeonthedayofserving.

Gingerbreadwithbrandyapplesandcrèmefraîche

Ricottacrêpeswithfigs,honeyandpistachioThesecrêpesareaseriouswaytoendameal,butalsoworkwellforbrunch,ifyouwanttogetthedayofftoaflyingstart.We’vemadealittlebitmorebatterthanyouneedfortwelvecrêpes;thetendency,wefind,isthatthefirsttwoorthreecrêpesdon’tworkquiteaswellasthosethatfollow,oncethepanhaswarmedupandyouknowwhat’swhat,sowe’vebuiltinthissafetynet.Ifyou’reverycleverandmanagetomakethemworkfromthestart,you’lljusthavetwoorthreeextratoplayaroundwith.Thecrêpesaregreatjustastheyare,ifyoulike,servedwithsomelemonjuiceandsprinkledsugar.

Playaroundwiththefilling,aswell,dependingonwhatyouhaveandwhat’sinseason.Strawberriesareagoodalternativetothefigs,forexample.Hullthem,thenmaceratethemwithalittlebitoforangejuice,atablespoonofbrandyandadropoforangeblossomwater.Walnutsalsoworkwellinsteadofthepistachios,ifthat’swhatyouhave.

MAKES12(PERFECT)CRêPES

170gplainflour1/3tspsalt3largeeggs300mlfull-fatmilk25gunsaltedbutter,melted,plusanextra80g,melted,forcookingandbrushingfinelygrated

zestof1largeorange(1tbsp)6freshfigs(BlackMission,ifpossible,oranotherripevariety),halved,orquarterediflarge

(250g)20gshelledpistachiokernels,roughlychopped

FILLING75gcurrants30mlbrandy150gcreamcheese300gricotta60gcastersugarscrapedseedsof¼vanillapod1½tsporangeblossomwater

finelygratedzestof1largeorange(1tbsp)2largeeggyolks1/8tspsalt

HONEYSYRUP60ghoney¼tsporangeblossomwater1tsplemonjuice

1Tomakethefilling,placethecurrantsandbrandyinasmallsaucepan.Heatgentlyforaminuteandsetasideforthecurrantstoplumpupandcool.

2Placethecreamcheeseinamediumbowlandbeatwithawoodenspoonorspatulauntilsmooth.Addthericotta,sugar,vanillaseeds,orangeblossomwater,orangezest,eggyolksandsaltandbeattoincorporate:themixshouldbewellcombinedbutnotcompletelysmooth.Finally,drainthecurrants–therewon’tbemuchliquidleftbutit’sstillusefultodo–andstirthemthrough.Setasideinthefridgeuntilreadytouse.

3Tomakethecrêpes,sifttheflourandsaltintoamediumbowlandmakeawellinthecentre.Cracktheeggsintothewellandaddthemilk,whiskingasyoupourandgraduallydrawingintheflourmixuntilthebatterissmooth.Finally,whiskinthemeltedbutteruntilcombined.Strainthroughasieve–youneedtodothistomakesuretherearenounwhiskedeggsorlumps–intoacleancontainer.Whiskintheorangezestandrefrigerate,covered,foratleastanhourorovernight.

4Placean18cmsautépan(orcrêpepan,ifyouhaveone)overamediumheatand,oncehot,brushlightlybutthoroughlywithmeltedbutter.Add3tablespoonsofbatterandswirlthepanaroundtoensurethatitspreadsthinlyandevenlyoverthesurface.Cookforabout1minute,oruntilthebottomisgoldenbrown,thenuseaspatula(oryourfingers,ifyou’recareful)toturnitover.Cookforanother30secondsorso,untilgoldenbrown.Repeatuntilyouhaveusedupallofthebatter,brushingthepanwithmorebutterbetweeneachcrêpe:youshouldhavetwelveperfectcrêpes.Stackthemuponaplateandwrapinclingfilmordrapeoveracleanteatowel–thispreventsthemdryingoutandcrackingattheedges–untilreadytofill.

5Whenreadytoassemblethecrêpes,spoon2tablespoonsofthefilling–about30g–intothetopquarterofonecrêpe.Foldthebottomhalfofthecrêpeupandoverthefilling(itlookslikeasemi-circleatthisstage),thenfolditinhalfagain,lefttoright,overthefilling,toformaquarter-circle.

6Brusha28x20cmceramicorPyrexbakingdishwith10goftheremainingmeltedbutterandplacethecrêpesinthedishinsnugrowsandslightlyoverlapping.Brushwithanother10gbutteranddotthefigsontop.Thecrêpescanbekeptinthefridgeatthispointuntilreadytocook(upto24hours).

7Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Placethecrêpesintheovenandbakefor30minutes.

8Makethehoneysyrup2minutesbeforethecrêpesareready.Warmthehoneyinasaucepanoveramediumheat.Removefromtheheat,stirintheorangeblossomwaterandlemonjuiceandbrushthisoverthecrêpesandfigsassoonastheycomeoutoftheoven.Placetwocrêpesoneachplateandspoontwofighalvesalongside.Drizzleoveranyremainingsyrup,sprinklewiththepistachiosandserve.

Apropernon-stickcrêpepan,withshallowsides,issuchatreat.Itmakesthecookingofcrêpeseasyandfun(andatthesametime,crucially,allowsyoutolooklikeapro).Alternatively,usean18cmsautépan.

Youcanmakethewholedishuptothepointatwhichit’sreadytogointotheoven,thenstoreinthefridge,covered,forupto24hours.Simplyfollowthecookinginstructionsbelowbeforeserving.

Ricottacrêpeswithfigs,honeyandpistachio

RicepuddingwithroastedrhubarbandtarragonThisisassweetandcomfortingasyouwantaricepuddingtobe,butwithawelcomesavourynotetoo,fromthetarragonandbayleaves.Thisisasdeliciousforbreakfastasitisafterlunchorsupper.

SERVES6

100gpuddingrice700mlfull-fatmilkshavedpeelof1mediumorange3largefreshbayleaves,torninhalf1largecinnamonstick1/8tspsalt530grhubarb(about9thinsticks),cutinto5cmlongpieces75gcastersugar10gtarragon(about6sprigs),halfthesprigsleftwhole,theremainingleavesremovedand

roughlychopped1vanillapod,slicedinhalflengthwaysandseedsscraped1tbspwater100mldoublecream30gicingsugar,sifted100gGreekyoghurt

1Preheattheovento170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.

2Placetherice,milk,orangepeel,bayleaves,cinnamonandsaltinahigh-sided30x20cmbakingtrayandbakefor70minutes,uncovered,stirringhalfwaythrough,untilthericeiscookedthroughbutstillholdsitsshapeandmostofthemilkisabsorbed.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolbeforeremovingtheorangepeel,bayleavesandcinnamonstick.Transfertoamediumbowl,letcoolcompletelythencoverandkeepinthefridgeuntilrequired.

3Tocooktherhubarb,increasetheoventemperatureto250°C/230°CFan/GasMark9.Placetherhubarbinacleanhigh-sided30x20cmbakingdishalongwiththesugar,thewholetarragonsprigs,vanillapodandseeds.Addthewater,tosstogetherandroastfor15–20minutes,untiltherhubarbhascompletelysoftened.

Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocool.Removethetarragonsprigsandvanillapod:thetarragoncanbediscarded,butthepodisworthsavingtoflavourcastersugar(seehere).

4Whiletherhubarbiscooking,placethecreaminabowlandaddtheicingsugar.Whiskuntilthecreamthickensandholdsitsshape.Foldthecreamintothecoldrice,followedbytheyoghurt,andreturntothefridge.

5Whenreadytoserve,dividethericepuddingbetweensixbowlsandspoonagenerousamountofrhubarbontop,alongwithsomeofthejuices.Servewithafinalsprinkleofthetarragonleaves.

Youcanmakethericepudding(uptothestagebeforethecreamisfoldedthrough)androastedfruitthedaybeforeserving.Youcantheneitherserveitstraightfromthefridge(foldingthecreamthroughwillbringittoroomtemperature)orwarmitthroughintheoven,addingthecreamjustbeforeserving,ifyouprefer.

Capegooseberrypavlova

Capegooseberriesaresolovelytolookat–withtheirglossyyellowskinandpaperyhusks–thattheycanoftenbeusedasjustanexoticgarnishratherthanasaningredientintheirownright.They’renottobeunderrated,though,withtheirdistincttaste:slightlycitrusywithtonesofstrawberryandhoney.Theypairreallywellwiththehoney-spikedyoghurtcreamhere.

SERVES8

MERINGUES125geggwhites(from3largeeggs)1/8tspsalt¼tspcreamoftartar250gcastersugar400gCapegooseberries(set8asideforthetoffeeCapegooseberries;removethehusksfrom

theremainderandslicetheminhalf)TOFFEECAPEGOOSEBERRIES8Capegooseberries(seehere),paperyhusksintact60gcastersugar

YOGHURTCREAM200gfull-fatGreekyoghurt200mldoublecreamscrapedseedsof¼vanillapod35grunnyhoney25gicingsugar,plusextrafordusting

1Preheattheovento140°C/120°CFan/GasMark1andlinetwobakingtrayswithbakingparchment.Traceordraweightcircles–eachabout8.5cmwide–oneachofthepapersheetssothatyouhavesixteencirclesintotal.Turnthepaperoversothedrawn-onsideisfacingdownbutstillvisible.

2Forthemeringues,placetheeggwhitesandsaltinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeeduntilfrothy,thenaddthecreamoftartar.Continuetobeatuntilsoftpeaksform

beforeaddingthesugar,onetablespoonatatime.Keepbeatinguntilthemixtureisthickandglossy.

3Spoonthemixtureintoapipingbag(ifyouhaveone)witha1cmwidenozzleinplace.Usingthecirclesyouhavetracedasyourguide,pipealayerofmeringueontoeachofthecircles:theyshouldbejustunder1cmthick.Useasmallspatulaorthebackofaspoontosmoothoverthetops.Ifyoudon’thaveapipingbag,simplydollopalargespoonfulofthemeringuemixtureontoeachcircleandsmoothitoutwithasmallmetalspatula:again,theyshouldbejustunder1cmthick.

4Placethetraysintheovenandbakefor2hours,oruntilthemeringuesaredry.Switchofftheovenbutleavethemeringuesinsideuntiltheyarecompletelycool.Oncecool,removefromtheovenandsetaside.

5TomakethetoffeeCapegooseberries,peelbackthepaperyhuskfromtheeightfruitbutleaveitattachedandsetaside.Putthesugarintoasmallsaucepanandplaceoveramedium-highheat.Cookthesugar,withoutstirring,untilitmeltsandbeginstobrownaroundtheedgesofthepan.Tiltandswirlthepansothatthesugarmeltsevenlyandturnsamber.Removefromtheheatand,movingquicklybutcarefully,tiltthepansothatthetoffeepoolsinonecorner.PickupaCapegooseberrybythehuskandcarefullydiptheentirefruit(notthehusk)inthetoffee.Holdforafewsecondsoverthepanforanyexcesstodripaway,thenplaceonaparchment-linedtrayorplate.Continuewiththeremainingfruitandtoffeeandsetthedippedfruitaside.

6Tomaketheyoghurtcream,whisktogetheralltheingredientsbyhand,orusingahand-heldelectricwhisk,untilsoftpeaksform.Keepinthefridgeuntilneeded.

7Toassemblethepavlovas,placeasmalldollopoftheyoghurtcreamontoeachservingplate(thiswillholdthemeringuesinplace)andplaceameringuediscontopofthecream,flatsidedown.Dollopafewtablespoonsoftheyoghurtcream(about40g)inthecentreofeachmeringueandusethebackofaspoontosmoothouttheentiresurface.Spoonabout50gofthehalvedCapegooseberriesoverthecream–itwillseemlikealot,buttheycanhandleit!–thenspreadtheflatbaseoftheremainingmeringuediscswiththeremainingyoghurtcream.Sit

themontopofthefruit,creamsidedown.Dustthetopsofthemeringueslightlywithicingsugarandplaceatoffee-coatedCapegooseberryinthecentreofeach.Serveasclosetoassemblingasyoucan–withinabout1hour–asthethindiscsofmeringuewillsoftenfromthefruitandthecream.

Apipingbagwitha1cmwidenozzleisusefulforpipingoutthemeringues,butisnotessential.

Themeringuecanbemadeupto3daysaheadandstoredinanairtightcontainer,layeredbetweensheetsofbakingparchment.TheyoghurtcreamandtoffeeCapegooseberriesarebestpreparednomorethanacoupleofhoursbeforeserving:thetoffeetendstobecomestickyandwill‘weep’ifmadetoofarinadvance.

Capegooseberrypavlova

Hotchocolateandlimepuddings

Thesepuddings,gentlybakedinabain-marie,deliverthelightnessofasouffléwithoutanyoftheanxietyoftenassociatedwithbakingthem.Aportionofpuddingbakedina10cmwideramekindishmightsoundlikeratheralot(particularlywhenyouseethemriseintheoven),butdon’tbeintimidated:theyareaslightastheyarelargeand,anyway,theysoondeflatetoafarmorereasonablesize.

Thereisjustasuggestionoflimefromthezestofthefruit,butfeelfreetosubstitutewithorangezestifthecombinationofchocolateandorangeappealsmore.

SERVES6

15gunsaltedbutter,softened,forgreasing200gdarkcookingchocolate(70%cocoasolids),roughlychopped100gmilkcooking

chocolate(37%cocoasolids),roughlychoppedfinelygratedzestof3limes(1tbsp)4largeeggs,atroomtemperature60gcastersugar,plusanextra30gforpreparingthemoulds110mldoublecream200gcrèmefraîche,toserve

1Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Brushtheramekinsordariolemoulds(seeKitNote)withthesoftenedbutter,thensprinkleoveralittlecastersugartoevenlycoat,tappingawaytheexcess,andsetaside.

2Placethechocolateinamediumheatproofbowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater,makingsurethebaseofthebowlisn’ttouchingthewater.Stirgentlywithaspatulafromtimetotimetoensurethatthechocolatemeltsevenly.Oncemelted,removethebowlfromtheheat,stirinthelimezestandsetasidetocoolfor10minutes,untiltepid.

3Placetheeggsandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplaceandbeatonahighspeedforabout6minutes,untilthemixtureisverylightandfluffyandhastrebledinvolume.Meanwhile,placethecreaminaseparatemediumbowlandwhiskbyhandorwithahand-heldelectricwhiskuntilverysoftpeaksform.

4Removetheeggandsugarbowlfromtheelectricmixerandaddthemeltedchocolateintwobatches,gentlyfoldingthroughbyhand.Whenalmostcombined–therewillstillbesomestreaks–foldinthewhippedcreamuntilthoroughlycombined.Itwilllosealittlevolume,butbecarefulnottoover-mix.

5Spoonthemixtureintothepreparedramekinsormoulds,fillingthemthree-quartersofthewayupthesides.Placetheramekinsormouldsinalarge,deepbakingdish,transfertotheovenandpourboilingwaterintothetray,aroundtheramekins,sothatitrisesathirdofthewayupthesides.Bakefor20–22minutes,oruntilthepuddingsaresoftlysetinthemiddle:checktheyarereadybygentlytappingthecentreofthepuddingswithyourfinger.Carefullyremovethebakingdishfromtheovenand,usingovengloves,transfertheramekinsontoservingplatesandserveimmediately.Alternatively,youcouldunmouldthepuddingsbysettingasidefor10minutesbeforeinvertingontoaplate.Servewithalittleofthecrèmefraîchespoonedalongside.

Thesecanbemadeinceramicorglass200mlramekins(oursare10cmwide).Alternatively,use200mldariolemoulds.

Thesearebestservedwarm,butwillkeepforadayortwoatroomtemperature(don’tkeeptheminthefridgeorthesoftinsidewillset).Theirtexturewillbealittledenser,buttheywillstilltastegreatastheyare,orwarmthemthroughintheovenormicrowave.

GingercrèmecaramelCrèmecaramelcanoftenbearatherheavyendtoameal,butoursisunexpectedlylight,whichweprefer.Thisisduetoahigherratioofmilktocreamthanistraditional,andalsobecausethemilkandcreamarenotheatedbeforebeingwhiskedintotheeggs.Helen,whocooksalotofChinesefood,saysthatthisisoneofthefewWesterndessertswhichdoesnottasteoutofplaceafteraChinesemeal.It’sparticularlyperfectafteramainofsteamedfish.

ThankstoSuzyZailforsharingthisrecipe.

SERVES8–10

780mlfull-fatmilk120mldoublecream7cmpieceoffreshginger(60g),peeledandcoarselygrated½vanillapod,slicedinhalf

lengthwaysandseedsscraped400gcastersugar6largeeggs1tspvanillaextract

1Ifinfusingthecustardwiththeginger,youwillneedtostart2daysbeforeyouwanttoservethedish.Placethemilk,cream,ginger,vanillapodandseedsinamediumbowlorjugandwhisktocombine.Coverwithclingfilmandkeepinthefridgeforatleast6hours,orideallyupto24hours,toinfuse.

2Whenyouarereadytomakethecrèmecaramel,preheattheovento170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.Placetheflandish(orwhicheverdishyouareusing,seeKitNote)intheoventokeepwarmuntilrequired:heatingthedishwillmakeiteasiertocoatitwiththehotcaramel.

3Tomakethecaramel,add200gofsugartoalargesautépanorskilletandplaceoveramediumheat.Cookforabout5minutes,resistingtheurgetostirbuttiltingandswirlingthepaninstead,untilthesugarhasmeltedandbeginstobrownaroundtheedges.Youwillneedtodothisslowlyandcontinuallyuntilthesugarhasturnedadarkambercolour.Removethehotflandishfromtheoven,

andimmediatelypourinthecaramel,usingateatoweltoprotectyourhands.Tiltthedisharoundsothatthecaramelcoatstheentirebaseandriseshalfwayupthesidesofthedish.Placethedishinahigh-sidedbakingtrayandsetasidefor15minutes:thecarameldoesnotneedtosetrockhard,butitshouldbefirmenoughthatpouringthecustardoverthetopwillnotdisturbitinanyway.

4Forthecustard,placetheeggsinalargebowlwiththeremaining200gsugarandthevanillaextract.Whiskuntilsmooth,thenstrainthemilk/creammixtureintotheeggsthroughafine-meshsieve–it’sokaythatit’sfridge-cold–pressingthegingeragainstthemeshtoextractasmuchflavourasyoucan.Discardthegingerandwhiskthemilkandeggmixtureuntilthoroughlycombined,butnottoofrothy.

5Pourthemixtureintothecaramel-coatedflandishandplacethebakingtray(withtheflandishinside)intheoven.Poursomerecentlyboiledwaterintothebakingtraysothatitcomesabouthalfwayupthesidesoftheflandish.Bakeforapproximately90minutes:thecrèmecaramelshouldstillhaveawobbleinthemiddlebutaskewerinsertedintothecentreshouldcomeoutclean.Thewobbleisasitshouldbe–itwillfirmupinthefridge–butcookingtimecanvary,dependingonthesizeofyourpanandwhatitismadefrom(glass,metal,etc):itcantakeupto2hours.

6Removethebakingtrayfromtheovenandcarefullytransferthecrèmecarameltoaracktocool.Setasideuntilcompletelycool,thencoverwithclingfilmandkeepinthefridgeovernight(orforupto3days)toallowthecarameltomeltandthecustardtofirmup.

7Afterrefrigerating,ifthecustardpartofthecrèmecaramelisstucktothesidesoftheflandishortin,carefullyrunasmallknifealongtheedgetoreleaseit.Thenplacealargeplate(largerthanyourflandish,andwitha‘lip’tocatchtheliquidcaramel)ontopoftheflandish.Graspingthedishandtheplatetogether,quicklyflipthewholethingover.Gentlyliftofftheflandishtorevealthesetcrèmecaramel.Slicewithalargekitchenknife,andserve–you’llbeamazedathoweasilyandperfectlyitslicesaswell.

Weliketomakethisina23or25cmroundceramicorglassdishwithaflutededge–likeaquicheplate.A

metaldish(solongasitiswatertightanddoesnothavearemovablebase)willalsobefine.Youcouldalsomakesmallindividualflans,butthesenseofturningoutawholeflanontoyourservingplatter,withthecaramelglisteningontop,isgreat.

Thefreshgingerinthecustardiswonderful,butyoucanskipthisstageifyouarelookingforashortcutanddon’twanttoinfusethecustardthedaybeforebakingit.Youwillstillneedtobakethedishatleastadaybeforeservingas,onceoutoftheoven,thewholethingneedstobechilledinthefridgeovernight,orforupto3days.

Oncemade,thiswillkeepinthefridgeforupto3days.

Gingercrèmecaramel

Yoghurtpannacottawithbasilandcrushedstrawberries

Pannacottaisusuallymadewithcream–thenameitselfmeans‘cookedcream’.Ourversion,however,ismadewithmilkandyoghurt,withatexturemorelikethatofasetmilkpudding.It’snotsetveryfirmly,though,soyou’llstillgetthereassuringwobbleyouwant.Ifyouwanttoturnyourpannacottasoutwellbeforethey’reserved,that’sfine:justkeeptheminthefridgesothattheystayset.Alternatively,youcanmakeandservetheseinindividualglasses,inwhichcasetheywon’tneedturningoutatall.

MAKES6(USING200MLMOULDS)OR8(USING150MLMOULDS)

4gelatineleaves(platinumstrength),or1tbsp(9g)powderedgelatine650mlfull-fatmilk160gcastersugarshavedpeelof2lemons,avoidingthebitterwhitepith30gbasilleaves,plusanextra10leavesforthestrawberriessunfloweroil(oranother

flavourlessoil),forgreasing350gGreekyoghurt60mllemonjuice300gstrawberries2tbspicingsugar

1Placethegelatineleavesinabowl,covergenerouslywithcoldwater,andsetasidetosoak.(Ifusingpowderedgelatine,place50mlofcoldwaterinasmallbowlandsprinklethegelatinepowderoverit.Standthebowlinapanofhotwaterandstiruntilthegelatinedissolves.Setasideuntilneeded.)2Combinethemilk,sugarandlemonpeelinamediumsaucepanandplaceoveralowheat.Stiruntilthesugarhasdissolved,thenincreasetheheattomedium-high.Assoonasitcomesuptoaboil,removethepanfromtheheat.Roughlytearthebasilleavesanddropthemintothehotmilk.

3Removethegelatineleavesfromthewater,squeezeoutanyexcessliquidanddropthemintothemilk.Ifyouareusingpowderedgelatine,addittothemilknow.Whiskgently,untilthegelatinedissolves,thensetasidetocooluntiltepid.Preparethesix200mloreight150mldariolemouldsbybrushingverylightlywiththeoil.

4Whenthemilkisready,placetheyoghurtinalargebowlorjugandwhisklightly.Strainthemilkintotheyoghurtthroughafine-meshsieve,pressingonthebasilandlemonpeeltoextractasmuchoftheiressenceaspossible.Whisktojustcombine–youdon’twanttowhisksovigorouslythatairbubblesarecreated–thenaddthelemonjuice.Stir,pourintothemouldsandplaceonabakingtraythatwillfitinthefridge.Coverwithclingfilmandplaceinthefridgeforatleast6hours(orupto2days).

5Anhourorsobeforeserving,hullthestrawberriesandroughlychopthem.Placethestrawberriesinasmallbowl,sprinkleovertheicingsugarandstir.Juliennetheremainingtenbasilleavesbyrollingthemupasabunchintoatightcigarshapeandslicingthemfinely.Addtothestrawberriesandsetasidetoinfuse.

6Toturnoutthepannacottas,gentlypressallaroundtheedges,thenturnthemupsidedownoverindividualplates.Holddownthemouldwithonehand,grabtheplatewiththeotherandgiveitashaketoreleasethepannacotta.Spoonthestrawberriesandbasiloverthetopandserveatonce.

Weusesix200mldariolemouldshere;youcoulduse150mlmouldsinstead–you’lljustendupwithacoupleextra.

Thesecanbemadeupto2daysinadvanceandkeptinthefridgeuntilserving.Thestrawberriesmustbepreparedjustbeforeserving.

Yoghurtpannacottawithbasilandcrushedstrawberries

Kaffirlimeleafpossetwithfreshpapaya

Possetshavebeenenjoyedforcenturies.Traditionallyservedasawarmdrinktothewealthy–andsaidtohelppeopleiftheywerefeelingill,muchasacupofcocoawouldbeofferedtoday–theyarenowchilleduntilsetandservedasacustard-likepudding.

Thedominanceofthecreamexplainswhyitissooftenpairedwithcleancitrusflavourstocutthroughalltheheavenlyrichness.Othertropicalfruitcanbeusedinsteadof(oralongside)thepapaya–slicesofmangoorbanana,chunksofpineapple,passionfruitpulp–justmakesurethefruityouchooseisniceandripe.

Usefreshkaffirlimeleavesforthis:thedriedvarietyjustwon’tbethesame.YoucanbuythemfrozeninlargebagsfromAsiangrocers,andthey’llcontinuetofreezewellathome,soyouwon’thavetoworryaboutracingthroughawholebag.

SERVES6

600mldoublecream12freshkaffirlimeleaves,bruisedwitharollingpinorpestleandmortar4stripsofshaved

limezest,plus¾tspfinelygratedzest,toserve140gcastersugar1/8tspsalt3tbsplimejuice½smallripepapaya,peeled,de-seededandcutintolong,thinslices(150g)

1Placethecreaminamediumsaucepan,addthekaffirlimeleavesandshavedlimezestandbringtoaverygentlesimmeroveramedium-highheat,thenremovefromtheheat.Setasidefor30minutestoinfuse.

2Addthesugartothecreamwiththesaltandreturntoamedium-highheat.Bringtotheboil,stirringfrequently,andcookfor1–2minutes,continuingtostir,untilthecreamrisestothetopofthepan:watchitcarefullysoitdoesn’tboil

over.Strainthroughafinesieveintoalargemeasuringjug,stirin1tablespoonoflimejuice–thecreamwillthickenquicklyatthisstage–thenpourintosixramekins(orbowls):themixtureshouldrisethree-quartersofthewayupthesides.Keepinthefridgeforatleast6hours,orovernight,toset.

3Whenreadytoserve,spoonthepapayaontopofthepossetsandsprinklewithgratedlimezest.Finishwithateaspoonoflimejuice,perportion,andserve.

Wemaketheseinsix150mlramekinsorbowls,butanysimilar-sizeddisheswillworkjustaswell.

Theseshouldbemadethedaybeforeserving,ifyoucan.Theyneedatleast6hoursinthefridgetoset,soit’sbesttojustleavethemovernight.

Oncemade,theycanbekeptinthefridgefor2days.

Kaffirlimeleafpossetwithfreshpapaya

StickyfigpuddingwithsaltedcaramelandcoconuttoppingAvariationofthiscake,usingdatesinsteadoffigs,wasalltherageincafésthroughoutAustraliaandNewZealandwhenHelenwasworkingandbakingthere.It’shardlyeverseenthesedays,whichisamystery,really,asit’ssodelicious:moistandfruitywithacrunchycaramelizedtopping.Weservethiswarm,withsomethickdoublecream.

MAKES8

2mediumGrannySmithapples200gsoftdriedfigs,toughstalkremoved,roughlychopped1tspbicarbonateofsoda250mlwater200gplainflour2tspbakingpowder¼tspsalt125gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,plusextraforgreasing200gcastersugar1largeegg1tspvanillaextract

SALTEDCARAMELCOCONUTTOPPING75gunsaltedbutter95gsoftlightbrownsugar60mldoublecream95gunsweetenedcoconutflakes,ordesiccatedcoconut¼tspsalt

1Peelandcoretheapplesandcutinto1cmpieces(youshouldhaveabout200g).Placetheapples,figs,bicarbonateofsodaandwaterinasaucepan.Bringtoaboil,thensimmeroveramediumheatforabout5minutes,stirringfromtimetotime,untilthefigsarestartingtobreakdown.Removefromtheheatandsetasideuntilcool.

2Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Ifusingthebottomlesscakerings(seeKitNote),lineabakingtraywithbakingparchment,lightlybuttertheringsandplacethemonthetray.Cutstripsofbakingparchment,largeenoughtorise3cmabovethecakerings,andplacethemaroundtheinsideofeachring;thebaseoftheringshouldbeexposedwhenit’splacedonthetray.Ifusingthemuffintin,lineeightmouldswithpapertulipliners–oranymuffinliners–whichriseabout7cmhigh.

3Sifttheflour,bakingpowderandsalttogetherintoabowlandsetaside.Placethebutterandsugarinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplaceandbeatonamedium-highspeedforabout2minutes,untillightandfluffy.Addtheeggandvanillaandbeatuntilcombined.Reducethespeedtolowand,inalternatebatches,foldinthefig-applemixandthesifteddryingredients.

4Dividethemixbetweentherings(ormuffinliners)andbakeforabout25minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentrecomesoutclean.

5Makethetoppingwhilethecakeisbaking.Placealltheingredientsforthetoppinginasaucepanandstiroveralowheatuntilthebutterismeltedandtheingredientsarecombined.Oncethecakesarecooked,removefromtheoven(keeptheovenon)andspoonabout1½tablespoonsofthetoppingmixtureoverthesurfaceofeachpudding:itshouldriseupabout1cm.Returntotheovenforanother12minutes,oruntilthetoppingisgoldenbrown.

6Removefromtheovenandleavetocoolfor10minutes,oruntiltheycometoroomtemperature,beforeremovingtheringsandpaperandserving:useaknifeifyouneedtohere,tohelpreleasethecake.Ifmakingtheminthemuffintin,letthemcoolinthetrayfor10minutesbeforetransferringtoawireracktocoolbeforeserving.

Wemaketheseineight7.5or8cmbottomlessroundrings,4cmhigh.Youcanalsomaketheminaregularmuffintin:theresultisnotquiteaselegant,buttheystillworkverywell.

Thesewillkeepforupto2daysatroomtemperature(orinthefridge,ifit’sparticularlywarm)inanairtightcontainer.Servethemastheyare,orwarmthemthroughfor5minutesinanovensetto200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.

Stickyfigpuddingwithsaltedcaramelandcoconuttopping

Potbarleypuddingwithroastedapplesanddatesyrup

ThinkofthisasaMiddleEasternricepudding.ThisiseitheraheartyendtoanautumnalSundaylunch,orwonderfuleatenatbreakfasttofuelyouforthedayahead.Thetwooptionsarenotmutuallyexclusive,though:justmakeitfirstforlunchandtheneattheleftoversthefollowingday.

Usepearlbarleyinplaceofpotbarley,ifnecessary.Itwon’thavequitethebiteofthepotbarleybecausethehullandbranlayershavebeenremoved,butitwillstillworkwell.

SERVES6

1.5litreswater200gpotbarley,rinsed3tbspdatesyrup,plusanextra4tbsptodrizzle3smallcinnamonsticksshavedpeelof1lemon,plus1tbsplemonjuice1tspgroundnutmeg¼tspsalt2largePinkLadyapples2largeBramleyapples(useGrannySmiths,asanalternative)50gdemerarasugar50gunsaltedbutter,melted1vanillapod,slicedinhalflengthwaysandseedsscrapedout200gplainyoghurt

1Pourthewaterintoamediumsaucepanandplaceoverahighheatwiththebarley,3tablespoonsofdatesyrup,cinnamon,lemonpeel,nutmegandsalt.Onceboiling,reducetheheattomediumandsimmerfor1hour,orabout30–35minutesifusingpearlbarley.Stirfromtimetotime,untiltheconsistencyisthatofricepuddingbutthebarleystillretainsabite.Ifusingthepearlbarley,keepaneyeonwaterlevelstowardstheendofcooking:youmightneedtoaddanother100mlorsotomakesureitdoesn’tboildrybeforecookingthrough.Removeand

discardthelemonpeelandcinnamonsticksandkeepthebarleysomewherewarmuntilreadytoserve.

2Halfwaythroughcookingthepotbarley,oratthestartofthepearlbarleycookingtime,preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Lineabakingtraywithbakingparchment.

3Peelandcoretheapplesandcutinto2–3cmslices(youshouldhaveabout650g),thenplacetheslicesinamediumbowlwiththelemonjuice,sugar,butter,vanillaseedsandpod.Mixwellandspreadoutonthelinedbakingtray.Placeintheovenfor30–45minutes,untiltheapplesarecooked,softandnicelycoloured.Removefromtheoven,discardthepod,stirtheapplesgentlytocombine–theBramleyapplesandGrannySmithswillbecompletelysoft,butthePinkLadyappleswillretaintheirshape–andsetasidesomewherewarm.

4Ifthebarleyhasset,addacoupleoftablespoonsofwatertothepanandgentlywarmoveramediumheat.Dividethewarmbarleybetweensixbowlsandspoontheapplesontop.Topwithabout2tablespoonsofyoghurtperportion,drizzlewiththedatesyrupandserve.

Youcanmakethisadayinadvance,ifyoulike:justkeepitinthefridgeuntilreadytoserve,thenwarmthroughonthestove,addingacoupleoftablespoonsofwatertothepottoloosenitup.Theroastedapplescanalsobemadeadayortwoinadvanceandstoredinthefridge;again,justwarmthemthroughbeforeserving.

Potbarleypuddingwithroastedapplesanddatesyrup

Cinnamonpavlova,pralinecreamandfreshfigs

Thisisastunningdessertforaspecialoccasion.Italsohasaniceelementofsurprise,asthemeringuebaseisnotquitewhatyoumightexpect:gooey–almosttoffee-like–ratherthandryandcrispy.Thisisduetothebrownsugarinthemix.Combinedwiththepralinecreamandfreshfigs,it’sabsolutelydelicious.Pavlovaisthedesserttomakewhenyouhaveabitoftimeandarefeedingpeopleyouadore.

Therecipecallsforflakedalmondsbutyoucaneasilysubstitutethosewithchoppedpistachios,asphotographed.

SERVES10–12(IT’SQUITERICH,SOTHESLICESARENOTTOOBIG)

20gflakedalmonds50gdarkcookingchocolate(70%cocoasolids),finelychopped600gfreshfigs,cutinto1cm

discs3tbsphoney

MERINGUE125geggwhites(from3largeeggs)125gcastersugar100gdarkmuscovadosugar1½tspgroundcinnamon

PRALINECREAM50gflakedalmonds80gcastersugar2tbspwater200mldoublecream400gmascarpone

1Preheattheovento170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.

2Spreadoutallthealmonds(forboththepavlovaandthepraline,70g)onabakingtrayandtoastfor7–8minutes,untilgoldenbrown.Removefromtheoven,divideintotwopiles(20gforthepavlova,50gforthepraline)andsetasidetocool.

3Reducetheoventemperatureto120°C/100°CFan/GasMark½.Coveralargebakingtraywithbakingparchmentandtraceacircle,about23cmindiameter,ontothepaper.Turnthepaperoversothedrawn-onsideisfacingdownbutstillvisible.

4Firstmakethemeringue.Pourenoughwaterintoamediumsaucepansothatitrisesaquarterofthewayupthesides:youwantthebowlfromyourelectricmixertobeabletositoverthesaucepanwithouttouchingthewater.Bringthewatertoaboil.Placetheeggwhitesandsugarsinthebowlofanelectricmixerandwhiskbyhandtocombine.Reducetheheatunderthesaucepansothatthewaterisjustsimmering,thensetthemixerbowloverthepan,makingsurethewaterdoesn’ttouchthebaseofthebowl.Whisktheeggwhitescontinuouslybyhanduntiltheyarewarm,frothyandthesugarismelted,about4minutes,thentransferbacktotheelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplaceandwhiskonahighspeedforabout5minutes,untilthemeringueiscool,stiffandglossy.Addthecinnamonandwhisktocombine.

5Spreadthemeringueinsidethedrawncircle,creatinganestbymakingthesidesalittlehigherthanthecentre.Placeintheovenandbakefor3hours,thenswitchofftheovenbutleavethemeringuesinsideuntiltheyarecompletelycool:thiswilltakeabout2hours.Oncecool,removefromtheovenandsetaside.

6Placethechocolateintoasmallheatproofbowlandsetitoverasmallsaucepanofsimmeringwater,makingsurethebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewater.Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted.Coolslightly,thenbrushthechocolateinsidethemeringuenest,leavingthetopandsidesbare.Dothisgently,asthemeringueisfairlydelicate.Leavetosetforabout2hours.

7Makethepraline.Placethe50gtoastedalmondsonaparchment-linedbakingtray(withalippededge)andsetaside.Putthesugarandwaterintoasmallsaucepanandplaceoveramedium-lowheat,stirringuntilthesugarhasmelted.Cook,swirlingthepanoccasionally,untilitturnsadarkgoldenbrown.

Pourthecarameloverthenuts(don’tworryifthey’renotallcovered)andleaveuntilcompletelycoolandset.Oncecool,transferthepralinetothesmallbowlofafoodprocessorandblitzuntilfine.

8Placethecream,mascarponeandblitzedpralineinalargebowlandwhiskforabout1minute,untilstiffpeaksform.Becarefulnottoover-whiskhere–itdoesn’ttakemuchtothickenup–oritwillsplit.Ifthisbeginstohappen,useaspatulatofoldalittlemorecreamintothemixtobringitbacktogether.Refrigerateuntilneeded.

9Toassemble,spoonthecreamintothecentreofthemeringueandtopwiththefigs.Warmthehoneyinasmallsaucepanandstirthroughthe20galmonds(orpistachios,aspictured).Drizzletheseoverthefigs,andserve.

Thepraline(afterblitzingbutbeforeit’smixedwiththecream)canbemadeupto3daysinadvanceandstoredinanairtightcontainer.Themeringuesneedtobemadeinadvance–theytake3hourstocook,2hourstocoolintheoven,andanother2hourstoset,soyou’reforcedtogetaheadbyatleastthismuch–buttheywillalsokeepforupto3dayslooselywrappedinfoil.

Onceassembled,thepavlovashouldbeeatenassoonaspossible.Itwillholdforacoupleofhours,butitwon’tlookasgoodafterthat.

Cinnamonpavlova,pralinecreamandfreshfigs

Knickerbockerglory

Thisisourgo-tohappy-makingdessert:thecolour,theconnotations,theconicalglasses,thedistinctivelong-handledspoonsyoueatitwith–it’sjustthedefinitionofgoodold-fashionedfun.Happinessshouldnotbedependentuponprops,however,sodon’tworryifyoudon’thavethetraditionalsundaeglassesorlong-handledspoons.Anyothertallglass(orindeedspoon)willworkfine.Weliketopopourglassesinthefreezeruntilreadytouse,asthisgivesthemafrostedlookandalsohelpstokeeptheicecreamchilledafterserving.

Theicecreamhereisasemifreddo,whichdoesnotneedchurning:goodnewsforthosewhodon’thaveanicecreammaker.ThecandiedpecansarethesameasthoseusedintheMontBlancTarts(seehere).

Freshraspberriesarelovely,ofcourse,butfrozenalsoworkreallywellinthesemifreddo.Infact,theliquidexudedwhenfrozenraspberriesdefrostgivesthepuréealovelyconsistency.

SERVES6

SEMIFREDDO600graspberries,fresh,orfrozenanddefrosted2tbspicingsugar200mldoublecream1largeegg,plus2largeeggyolks1tsplemonjuice180gcastersugar1/8tspsalt

CANDIEDPECANS1tbspmaplesyrup1tbspliquidglucose1tbspcastersugar120gpecanhalves1/8tspflakyseasalt

CHANTILLYCREAM

300mldoublecream2tbspicingsugar,sifted1tspvanillaextract

PLUMSabout5redplums,stonesremoved,choppedinto3cmchunks(300g)

1Tomakethesemifreddo,placetheraspberriesinafoodprocesserandblitztoapurée,thenpassthemthroughafinesievesetoverabowltoremovetheseeds.Youmayneedtodothisinbatches,usingalargespoontoscrapethepuréethroughthesieve.Measureout260mlofthepuréeandsetaside.Sifttheicingsugarintotheremainingpurée–youshouldhaveabout100ml–anddecantitintoajug.Setasideinthefridgeuntilreadytouse.

2Place200mldoublecreaminthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Whipuntilsoftpeaksform,thenscrapeintoabowl.Setasideinthefridgeuntilreadytouse.

3Pourenoughwaterintoamediumsaucepansothatitrises2cmupthesides:youwantthebowlfromyourelectricmixertobeabletositoverthesaucepanwithouttouchingthewater.Bringthewatertotheboil,thenreducetoalowsimmer.

4Inthemeantime,whisktogethertheegg,eggyolks,lemonjuice,sugarandsaltinacleanbowlofanelectricmixer.Placethebowloverthesimmeringwaterandwhiskcontinuouslyforabout5minutes,untilthesugarhasdissolvedandthemixtureisverywarm.Transferthebowlbacktotheelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplaceandbeatonamedium-highspeeduntilthemixtureisthickandcool:itwillthickenquitequicklybuttakesabout10minutesormoretocool.Addthe260mlofpuréeandwhiskonalowspeeduntilcombined.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowlandcontinuetomixuntilthoroughlycombined.Removethewhippedcreamfromthefridgeandfoldthroughuntilincorporated.Scrapethemixtureintoalargefreezercontainer,coverthetopwithclingfilmandfreezeforatleast12hours.

5Tomakethepecans,preheattheovento210°C/190°CFan/GasMark6.Lineabakingtray(withalippededge)withbakingparchmentandsetaside.Placethemaplesyrup,glucoseandsugarinasmallsaucepanandplaceoveralowheat.

Stirgentlyuntilthesugarhasmelted,thenaddthepecansandsalt.Stirsothatthenutsarecoatedinthesyrup,thentipthenutsontothelinedbakingtray.Placeintheovenforabout8minutes,oruntilthesyrupisbubblingaroundthenuts.Removethetrayfromtheovenandsetasideuntilcool.Whenthenutsarecool,theglazeshouldbecompletelycrisp;ifnot,returnthetraytotheovenforafewmoreminutes.Oncecooled,breakorroughlychopthenutsinto0.5cmpiecesandsetasideuntilreadytouse.

6FortheChantillycream,placethedoublecreaminacleanbowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Addtheicingsugarandvanillaandwhipuntilsoftpeaksform.Transfertoabowlorcontainerandkeepinthefridgeuntilreadytoassemble.

7Toassemble,removethesemifreddofromthefreezer10minutesbeforeservingsothatitissoftenoughtoscoop.Removetheglassesfromthefreezeranddividethechoppedplumsbetweenthem.Drizzleoverhalfatablespoonofthereservedsweetenedraspberrypurée,addatablespoonofpecans,thenspoonalargescoopofthesemifreddoontop.Drizzleovertheremainingsauce–½tablespoonperglass–followedbyasmalltablespoonofnutsandacoupleoflargedollopsofthewhippedcream.Finishwithafinalsprinkleofthechoppednutsandserveatonce.

Thecandiedpecanscanbemadeupto5daysaheadandkeptinanairtightcontainer.Thesemifreddoneedstobemadeatleast12hoursinadvance.You’llhaveaboutathirdofthesemifreddoleftover,andthiswillkeepinthefreezerfor1month.

Knickerbockerglory

FrozenespressoparfaitforacrowdThisis,ineffect,anover-sizedicecreamsandwich:whatHelenwouldhavecalledan‘EskimoPie’,growingupinAustralia.Therearevariouscomponentstothiscrowd-pleasingdessert,butthewholethingcanbemadewellinadvanceandkeptinthefreezertopreventanyon-the-daymeltdowns.Howevermuchworkisinvolved,itisworthit:peoplecrywithjoywhentheyhavethis!

Ifyouwanttoloseoneelement,youcandowithoutthecaramelsauce(whichwouldalsomakethewholethingbooze-free).Weloveit,buttheparfaitstillworkswellwithoutthissweetandfinal‘tada’.

SERVES12–16(ITISRICH,SOSLICESNEEDNOTBELARGE)

MERINGUEBASES75gchoppedhazelnuts(or75gwholeblanchedhazelnuts)80gicingsugar20gDutch-processedcocoapowder125geggwhites(from3largeeggs–theyolksareusedintheparfait)1/8tspsalt1/8tspcreamoftartar100gcastersugar200gdarkcookingchocolate(70%cocoasolids),roughlychoppedinto1cmpiecesCOFFEE

PRALINE125gcastersugar2tbspwater1½tspfinelygroundespressocoffee(suchasLavazza)

ESPRESSOPARFAIT350mldoublecream6largeeggyolks(youwillhave3fromthemeringues)250mlespressocoffee200gcastersugar2tspcoffeeextract(weuseTrablitLiquidCoffeeExtract,butanybrandisfine)CARAMEL

SAUCE330gcastersugar80mlwater160mldoublecream75mlwhisky

1Forthecoffeepraline,putthesugarandwaterintoasmallsaucepanandplaceoveralowheat.Stirtocombineuntilthesugarhasmelted.Increasetheheattomediumandsimmerforabout5minutes,untilthesugarbeginstobrownattheedges.Gentlyswirlthepansothatthesugarcooksevenly,resistingtheurgetostir.Whenthecaramelhasturnedaclearamber–afterabout1minute–removefromtheheatandpourontoasmallparchment-linedtray(withalippededge).Tiltthetrayasitsetstogetathinlayerofcaramel.Sprinklealloverwiththegroundcoffeeandsetasideuntilcompletelycoolandhard.Oncecool,transfertoafoodprocessorandblitzuntilroughlyground:pieceswillrangeinsizefrompowderytoabout0.5cmwide.Setasideuntilreadytouse.

2Tomakethemeringuebases,preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4andpositiontwoshelvesintheoven:oneinthemiddleandoneatthebottom.Cuttwosheetsofbakingparchmenttofittwolargebakingtrays.Usingthebaseofthetininwhichyouaregoingtofreezetheparfait(weusea20cmsquaretin,butothertinswork:seeKitNote),tracearoundthebaseontoeachofthesheetsofparchment.Turnthepaperoverandplaceonthebakingtrayssothatthesideyouhavedrawnonisfacingdownbutstillvisible.Setaside:thiswillbethetemplateforthemeringuebases.

3Ifstartingwithwholehazelnuts,spreadthemoutonabakingtrayandroastforabout15minutes,oruntilthenutsarelightlybrown.Removefromtheovenand,oncecoolenoughtohandle,chopthemfinelyinto0.5cmpieces.Ifstartingwithchoppednuts,justspreadthemoutonabakingtrayandroastfor7–8minutes.Setasideuntilcompletelycool.

4Sifttheicingsugarandcocoapowdertogetherintoabowlandsetaside.Placetheeggwhitesinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Addthesaltandcreamoftartarandbeatonamedium-highspeedforabout2minutes,untilsoftpeaksform.Graduallyaddthecastersugar–atablespoonatatime–andcontinuetobeatfor2–3minutes,untilverystiff.Gentlyfoldinthesiftedicingsugarandcocoapowderandthehazelnuts.

5Dividethemeringuemixtureintwoanddollopontothetwotracedsheets,smoothingitoutwithasmallmetalspatulatofitthetracedshapes.Itwillspreadslightly,butyoucantrimitbacksothatitfitsthetinsnuglylater.

6Placethemeringuesheetsontothemiddleandbottomshelvesoftheovenandbakeforabout1hour,oruntilthemeringuesarecrispanddry(theinsidewillstillbealittlebitsoft).Checkthemeringueshalfwaythroughthecookingtime,rotatingthetraysandswappingthembetweentheshelvesifoneistakingonmorecolourthantheother.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocool.Oncethemeringuesarecool,trimtheedgessothattheyfitneatlyintothetininwhichtheparfaitwillbefrozen.Ifthepanhasaremovablebase,usethistohelpyoutrimthemeringuebases.

7Placethechocolateinasmallheatproofbowlandsetitoverasmallsaucepanofsimmeringwater,makingsurethebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewater.Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted,thensetasidetocoolslightly.Brushtheflatsideofeachofthemeringuebaseswiththemeltedchocolateandimmediatelysprinklethecoffeepralinealloverthechocolatesothatithastimetoadheretothechocolatebeforeitsets.Setasidetodrywhileyoumaketheparfait.

8Tomaketheespressoparfait,placethecreaminthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Beatuntilsoftpeaksform,thentransfertoacontainerandstoreinthefridgeuntilreadytouse.

9Placetheeggyolksinacleanbowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace,inpreparationforthenextstage.Puttheespressocoffeeandsugarintoamediumsaucepanandplaceoveralowheat,stirringuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Increasetheheattomedium-highandsimmerthecoffeesyrup.Inthemeantime,beginwhiskingtheeggyolksonamedium-highspeed.Keepcheckingthecoffeesyrupwithasugarthermometerandwhenithasreached118°C(‘softball’stage),pourthehotcoffeesyrupslowlydowntherimofthebowlontothebeatingyolks,whichshouldbethickandcreamybynow.Continuetowhiskatmedium-highspeeduntilthebowlisnolongerwarmtotouch–10–15minutes–thenaddthecoffeeextract.Whisktocombine,thenturnoffthemixer.

10Preparethetin;whiletheyolksarewhippingandcooling,linethesidesandbaseofyourchosentinwithbakingparchment,makingsurethereisanoverhangonallsides.Placeoneofthemeringuebasesonthebottom,chocolatesidedown.Itshouldfitneatly,withnolargegapsaroundthesides.

11Whentheyolkmixtureiscool,removethebowlfromthemixerandusealargerubberspatulatofoldinthewhippedcreaminthreebatches.Donotover-mixasyouwanttokeeptheparfaitlightandairy,butdomakesurethattherearenobiglumpsofcream.Pourtheparfaitoverthemeringuebaseanduseasmallspatulatosmoothandevenitout.Carefullyplacethesecondmeringuesheetoverthetopoftheparfait,chocolatesideup.Pressgentlytoensurethemeringueiscompletelyincontactwiththeparfait.Coverwithclingfilmandplaceinthefreezerforatleast12hours,oruntilcompletelyfirm.

12Tomakethecaramelsauce,combinethesugarandwaterinamediumsaucepanandplaceoveralowheat.Heatuntilthesugarhasdissolved,stirringoccasionally,thenincreasetheheattohigh.Donotstirbeyondthispoint.Cookuntilthecaramelisadeepambercolour,thenremovefromtheheat.Carefullyaddthecream–standbackhere,asthemixturewillbubbleandsplutter–andreturnthepantoalowheat.Stiruntilthecaramelissmooth,addthewhiskyanddecantintoajug.Ifmakingthesauceaheadoftime,storeitinthefridge,thenreheatinapanoveralowheatwhenreadytoserve.

13Whenreadytoserve,removethefrozenparfaitfromthefreezerand,usingtheoverhangingpaper,gentlypullthewholethingout.Ifyourtinortrayhasaremovablebase,pushtheparfaitupfromunderneath.Sliceintosmallblocksorrectangleswithawarmknife,pouroverthecaramelsauce,andserve.

Weliketomakethisina20cmsquarecaketinwitharemovablebase.Theremovablebasemakesthingseasier,butit’snotstrictlynecessary.Solongasit’slined,you’llbefinetouseanysimilar-sizedtinortray.Youwillalsoneedasugarthermometerfortheparfait.

Thecaramelsaucecanbemadeuptoaweekaheadandstoredinthefridge,readytobedrizzledoverjustbeforeserving.Thecoffeepralinecanbemadeupto2weeksinadvanceandstoredinanairtightcontainerinthefreezer(notinthefridge,wherethesugarwill‘weep’)untilreadytouse.Youcanalsomakethemeringuebasesinadvance(beforespreadingwiththemeltedchocolateandpraline):theykeepwellinanairtightcontainerfor3days.Howevermuchyoudecidetogetahead,theparfaitneedsfreezingforatleast12hoursonceassembled,soyouareforcedtogetaheadthismuchatleast!

Theparfaitcanbeassembledandstoredinthefreezerforupto1week,ideally,butitwillkeepwellinthefreezerforupto1month.

Ifmakingthemeringuebasesthedaybeforetheparfait,reservetheeggyolksfortheparfait.Storetheyolksinasmallbowl,addateaspoonofwaterdirectlyontop,wrapthebowlinclingfilmandplaceinthefridge.

Frozenespressoparfaitforacrowd

SaffronandalmondicecreamsandwichThisisanicecreamsandwichforgrown-ups.Theappealistimeless–Icecream!Inasandwich!Madewithbiscuits!–buttheflavourofthesaffronmakesthisoneatreatforthebigkids.Don’tbeputoffbyallthedifferentstageshere:itlookslikealotofwork,butthejoyofanicecreammakeristhatalotoftheworkisdoneforyou.

MAKES12

120gwholealmonds,skinon200gplainflour,plusextrafordusting55gDutch-processedcocoapowder½tspbakingpowder½tspsalt100gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature160gsoftlightbrownsugar½tspvanillaextract60mlfull-fatmilk

ICECREAM4largeeggyolks100gcastersugar320mlfull-fatmilk300mldoublecream½vanillapod,slicedinhalflengthwaysandseedsscraped¼tspsaffronthreads

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

2Tomakethebiscuits,startbyspreadingthealmondsoutonatrayandbakefor8minutes.Setasidetocool,thenblitzinafoodprocessortoroughly0.5cmpieces.Storeinanairtightcontaineruntilneeded.

3Increasetheoventemperatureto200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingparchment.

4Sifttheflour,cocoa,bakingpowderandsalttogetherintoabowlandsetaside.

5Addthebutterandsugartothebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace.Beatonahighspeedforabout3minutes,untilpale,thenaddthevanilla.Mixtoincorporate,reducethespeedtolowandaddathirdoftheflourmix.Continuetoincorporate,thenaddhalfthemilk.Mixtocombine,thenrepeatwithanotherthirdoftheflour,theremainingmilk,andfinishingwiththeflour.Mixuntiljustcombined:thedoughwillbesoftbutnotsticky.

6Transferthedoughtoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandkneaduntilsmooth.Divideintwoandsetonehalfaside.Rollthedoughto3mmthickandusean8cmroundcookiecuttertocutoutdiscs.Arrangethediscsonatray,separatingthelayerswithbakingparchmentsotheydon’tsticktoeachother,thenrepeattheprocesswiththesecondpieceofdough.Re-rollanyoffcutstomaketwenty-fourbiscuitsintotal.Placeinthefreezerforatleast15minutes.

7Whenreadytobake,arrangethediscsonthelinedbakingtraysandbakeforabout6–8minutes,untilfirmontheoutsidebutstillalittlesoftinthecentre.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolfor5minutesbeforetransferringtoawireracktocoolcompletely.Placethebiscuitsinanairtightcontaineruntilreadytouse.

8Tomaketheicecream,placetheyolksandsugarinamediumbowl,whisktocombineandsetaside.Putthemilk,cream,vanillaseedsandpod,andsaffronintoamediumsaucepanandplaceoveramediumheat.Warmthroughfor3–4minutes,untillittlebubblesstartforming.Slowlypourhalfthehotmilkintotheyolkmixture,whiskingconstantlyuntilsmooth,thenpourallthemixturebackintothesaucepanwiththeremainingmilk.Returntoamedium-lowheatandcookfor8–10minutes,stirringconstantly,untilthemixturecoatsthebackofaspoon.Removefromtheheat,discardthevanillapod,transfertoabowlandsetasidetocoolcompletely:thebestwaytodothisistochillthemixtureoveranicebathorinthefridgebeforechurning.Whencold,placeinanicecreammakerandchurnuntilfirmwavesappear.

9Beforeassembling,placeabakingtray(oranyothertray)inyourfreezer.Thisistoputtheicecreamsandwichesonassoonastheyareassembled.

10Whenassemblingthesandwiches,keeptheicecreamchurning(topreventitmelting).Spoonabout50goficecreamontheundersideofonebiscuitand

placeanotherbiscuitontop,smoothsideup.Gentlysqueezethebiscuitstogethersothattheicecreamjustcomestotheedgeofthebiscuits.Runthetipofateaspoonbetweenthetwobiscuitstoremoveanyexcessicecreamandtocreateasmoothfinish.Givethebiscuitsonefinalgentlesqueezetogethersothattheicecreamsitsevenlywiththebiscuits.Placeeachoneonthetrayinthefreezerassoonastheyareassembled,beforestartingonthenext.Oncetheyarealltogether,freezeforatleast6hoursbeforeserving.

11Justbeforeserving,removethebiscuitsfromthefreezertoallowtheedgesoftheicecreamtosoftenslightly.Spreadtheblitzedalmondsoutonaflatplate,rolltheexposedicecreaminthenuts,andserve.

Ideally,anicecreammakerisneededtochurntheicecream.Ifyoudon’thaveone,youcanchurnityourself,stirringthemixeveryfewhourstobreakuptheformationoficecrystalsbeforereturningittothefreezer.

Boththebiscuitsandnutscanbemade3or4daysaheadandkept,separately,inairtightcontainers.

Onceassembled,thesandwicheswillkeepinthefreezerforupto1month.

Saffronandalmondicecreamsandwich

Campariandgrapefruitsorbet

Thisissorefreshingandparty-likethatitcanbeservedatprettymuchanypointduringameal.Beforeyoustarteating,forexample,withasplashofProseccoontop;asapalate-cleanserbetweencourses;orfordessertinfrostedMartiniglasseswithoneoftheCats’Tongues(seehere)alongsideandpossiblyalsoanaughtyextraglugofCampari.

Don’tbetemptedtousepaleyellowgrapefruithere:youreallywanttherubyredvariety,asitprovidesboththeshockofcolourandthesweetnessyouwanttobringtotheparty.

Onceyou’vemadethesorbet,you’reallsettomaketheChocolate-coatedRubyRedGrapefruitPeel(seehere),ifyoulike,asyou’llhavethepeelallreadytogo.Ifyoudon’twanttodothisstraightaway,collectthepeelinazip-lockbagandstoreitinthefridgeforupto3days.

SERVES6(ATTHEENDOFAMEAL),12(INTHEMIDDLE)ORMORE(ATTHESTARTOFAMEAL)

500mlfreshrubyredgrapefruitjuice(from2–5grapefruit,dependingontheirsizeandjuiciness)60mllemonjuice

100mlorangejuice200gcastersugar80mlCampari

1IfyouaregoingtomaketheChocolate-coatedRubyRedGrapefruitPeel,followtheslicinginstructionshere,retainingthefleshforusehere,andstoringthepeeluntilreadytouse.Otherwise,cuteachgrapefruitinhalfandremovetheflesh.Makesuretherearenopipsintheflesh,thenplaceitinablenderorfoodprocessorandblenduntilthegrapefruitiscrushed.Strainitintoabowlthroughafine-meshsieve:youneed500mlofjuice,sofeelfreetodrinkanyexcess(ormakeacocktailwithit).

2Addthelemonandorangejuicetothegrapefruitjuiceandmixtogether.Pour250mlofthisintoasmallsaucepanwiththesugar,andsettheremainingjuiceaside.Heatthepanoveralowheat,stirringuntilthesugarisdissolved,thensetasidefor10minutestocool.Pourthisintotheremainingjuice,addtheCampari,andchillcompletelybysettingitoveranicebathorplacingitinthefridge.

3Oncechilled,transfertoanicecreammakerandchurnuntilsoftwavesform.Transferthesorbettoacontainer,coverwithclingfilm–sothattheclingfilmisactuallytouchingthesurfaceofthesorbet,topreventiceparticlesforming–andsealthecontainer.Freezeuntilfirmenoughtoscoopintoaglass,andserve.

Ideally,anicecreammakerisneededtochurnthesorbet.Ifyoudon’thaveone,youcanchurnityourself,stirringthemixeveryfewhourstobreakuptheformationoficecrystalsbeforereturningittothefreezer.

Oncechurned,thesorbetwillkeepinthefreezerforabout1week.

Campariandgrapefruitsorbet

Pricklypearsorbet

Pricklypearsarereallyidiosyncratic:they’rethefruitformofthedesertcactus,withaflavoursodistinctthatit’shardtorecommendasubstitute.Theyarereminiscentofwatermelonandquince:almoststrawberry-like,butthennotatall!CommonintheMiddleEastandSouthAmerica,theycanbehardtogetholdofelsewhere.Theyfreezereallywell,though,sokeepaneyeoutfromlatesummertoearlywinter,whenthey’remorelikelytobearoundandwillcertainlybeattheirbest.IfyouwanttokeeptheSouthAmericanconnection,adashofmezcalislovelypouredoverjustbeforeserving.

Thesedays,pricklypearsareusuallysoldwiththeirthornsremoved(orburntoff),butit’sstillagoodideatowearrubbergloveswhenyou’repeelingthem,justincase.Youdon’twantoneoftheirfinespineslodgedinyourskin:thestingissurprisinglyuncomfortable.

Thisislovelyeitherbyitselforservedwithalittlelightbiscuit.TheCats’Tongues(seehere)orBrownButterAlmondTuiles(seehere)workreallywell.

SERVES6–8

200gcastersugar250mlwater10–12pricklypears,peeled(700g):theircolourcanvaryfrompaleyellowtodeepmagenta,

witheveryshadeinbetween60mllimejuice1/8tspsalt

1Tomakethesyrup,putthesugarandwaterintoasmallsaucepanandplaceoveralowheat.Swirlthepaneveryonceinawhile,untilthesugarhasdissolved,thenincreasetheheattomedium-high.Simmerforabout8minutes,swirlingthepanfrequentlyuntilyouhaveabout250mlofthicksyrup.Removefromtheheat,setasidetocool,thenstoreinthefridgeuntilreadytouse(upto2weeks).

2Topreparethepears,putonsomerubbergloves(washing-upglovesarefine)anduseasmallparingknifeorvegetablepeelertopeeloffanddiscardtheskin.Slicethefleshroughlyintoquarters,transfertoafoodprocessorandblitztoformafinepurée.Transfertoasievesetoveramediumbowland,usingaspatula,pressasmuchoftheliquidasyoucanthroughthesieve,discardingtheseeds:youshouldhaveabout650mlofpurée.Theseedsareedible,butweprefertostrainthemoutsoasnottodetractfromthedelicatesoftfruit.Stirthroughthesugarsyrup,limejuiceandsalt,theneitherplungethebowlintoanicebathorplaceitinthefridgeforanhouruntilverycold:thisreallyhelpsitalonginthemachine.

3Transfertoanicecreammakerandchurnforabout35minutes(thiscanvary,dependingonyourmachineandhowcoldthemixtureiswhenitgoesin),untilsoftwavesform.Transfertoasealedcontainerandfreeze,covered,untilsolid:thisshouldtakeabout6hours.About10minutesbeforeyouarereadyfordessert,removeitfromthefreezertosoftenslightly,andserve.

Ideally,anicecreammakerisneededtochurnthesorbet.Ifyoudon’thaveone,youcanchurnityourself,stirringthemixeveryfewhourstobreakuptheformationoficecrystalsbeforereturningittothefreezer.

Thesyrupcanbemadeupto2weeksinadvanceandstoredinthefridgeuntilneeded.

Oncechurned,thesorbetwillkeepinthefreezerforuptoamonth.

Lemon,yoghurtandjuniperberryicecream

Thesparkofinspirationforthisdishwasstruckoveraginandtonic.Therecipewentoff-pistetobecomesomethingelseentirely,buttheginlinkremainedwiththepresenceofthejuniperberries(fromwhichginismade).It’salinkwhichcanbereinforcedbyservingtheicecreaminanice-coldglassandaddingasplashofginatthetable,ifyoulike.

Thisegg-freeicecreamhassuchadistinctivetaste–apronouncedlemonflavour,alongwithspicytonesfromthejuniperberries–thatitreallydoesn’tneedanyaccompaniment.Ifyoudowantalittleextrasomething,though,oneoftheCats’Tongues(seehere)orBrownButterAlmondTuiles(seehere)workwell.

SERVES6

200gcastersugar250mlwatershavedpeelof½lemon,avoidingthebitterpith,plus60mllemonjuice1smallfreshbayleaf250gGreekyoghurt1tspdriedjuniperberries,finelycrushedinamortarandpestleorusingarollingpin60ml

doublecream

1Tomakethesyrup,putthesugarandwaterintoasmallsaucepan,placeoveramediumheatandstirtodissolve.Addthelemonpeelandbayleafandsimmerfor12minutes,untilyouhaveabout300mlleftinthepan.Removefromtheheat,setasidetocool,thenstrainthesyrupanddiscardthelemonpeelandbayleafbeforeusing.Storeinthefridgeuntilreadytouse(upto2weeks).

2Placetheyoghurtinalargebowlandgentlywhiskinthestrainedsugarsyrupandlemonjuice,followedbythejuniperberries.Storeinthefridge,covered,untilreadytochurn(upto2days).

3Justbeforeyouarereadytochurn,pourthecreamintoabowlandwhiskuntilsoftpeaksform,byhandorusingahand-heldelectricwhisk.Whilecontinuingtowhisk,pourintheyoghurtsugarsyrup,whiskinguntilcombined.Placeinanicecreammakerandchurnforabout30minutes,untilsoftwavesform.Transfertoacontainerandfreeze,covered,untilsolid:thisshouldtakeabout6hours.Removeitfromthefreezer15minutesbeforeserving–3smallscoopslooknice,or2largerscoops–inglasseswhichhavealsobeenplacedinthefreezerforanhourbeforehand.

Ideally,anicecreammakerisneededtochurntheicecream.Ifyoudon’thaveone,youcanchurnityourself,stirringthemixeveryfewhourstobreakuptheformationoficecrystalsbeforereturningittothefreezer.

Thesyrupcanbemadeupto2weeksinadvanceandstoredinthefridgeuntilneeded.Theicecreammixturecanbemadeupto2daysaheadofchurningandstoredinthefridge,covered.

Oncechurned,theicecreamwillkeepinthefreezerfor2weeks.Itwillstillbefineafterthat,thoughitmightformicecrystals.

Chocolate,roseandwalnuticecreamThere’ssomethingalittlebitArabiannightsaboutthecombinationofingredientshere,withtheTurkishdelightandrosewater.Theroseiskey,butmakesureyoustartwithsomegood-qualityrosewater,preferablyLebanese.

ThankstoCarolineLiddellandRobinWeir’sIces:TheDefinitiveGuideforthetechniqueof‘cookingout’thecocoapowderintherecipeforthechocolatebase,inthesamewaythatyou‘cookout’theflourwhenmakingabéchamel.

SERVES6–8

65gwalnuthalves350mlfull-fatmilk300mldoublecream20gDutch-processedcocoapowder3largeeggyolks100gcastersugar100gdarkcookingchocolate(70%cocoasolids),chopped1tspinstantcoffeegranules1tbsprosewater3digestivebiscuits,brokeninto1cmpieces120grose-flavouredTurkishdelight,cutinto1cmcubes1tspdriedrosepetals(optional)

CHOCOLATESAUCE50gdarkcookingchocolate(70%cocoasolids),finelychopped100mldoublecream¼tspbrandy(optional)

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

2Spreadthewalnutsoutonabakingtrayandroastfor7minutes.Removefromtheovenand,oncecoolenoughtohandle,choproughlyinto1cmpieces.Setaside.

3Pourthemilkandcreamintoamediumsaucepanandplaceoveramediumheat.Cookfor3–4minutes,untilitstartstosimmer.Pourabout80mlintoa

smallbowl,addthecocoaandwhisktogetheruntilcombined.Returnthemixturetothepan,stirthrough,reducetheheattomedium-lowandcookgentlyforanother6–7minutes,stirringoften,to‘cookout’thecocoa.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

4Placetheyolksandsugarinamediumbowlandwhiskuntilpale.Slowlypouroverabout100mlofthehotchocolatecreamandcontinuetowhisk.Returneverythingtothesaucepan,alongwiththechocolateandcoffee,stirthroughtomelt,thencookgentlyoveramediumheatforanother10minutes,stirringregularly,forthecustardtothickenslightly.Setasidetocoolcompletely:youcandothisbyeithersettingitoveranicebathorchillingitinthefridge(forafewhoursorovernight).Startingoffwithproperlychilledcustardisimportant,asitwon’tover-worktheicecreammachine.Oncechilled,graduallyaddtherosewater(don’tadditallatonce:tastetomakesuretheroseflavourdoesn’ttakeover).

5Transfertoanicecreammakerandchurnuntilsoftwavesform,thenspoonintoaplasticcontainerwithalid.Stirinthewalnutsanddigestivesandfreeze,covered,foratleast1hour(orovernight).

6Makethechocolatesaucejustbeforeserving.Putthechocolateinabowlandsetaside.Placethecreaminasaucepanoveramediumheat.Assoonasitstartstoboil,pouritoverthechocolateandstiruntilmelted.Stirinthebrandy,ifusing,andspoonovertheicecream.SprinklewiththeTurkishdelightandrosepetalsandserve.

Ideally,anicecreammakerisneededtochurntheicecream.Ifyoudon’thaveone,youcanchurnityourself,stirringthemixeveryfewhourstobreakuptheformationoficecrystalsbeforereturningittothefreezer.

Theicecreamcanbechurnedadayinadvanceandstoredinthefreezer:removefromthefreezer20minutesbeforeserving.

Chocolate,roseandwalnuticecream

Confectionery

Peoplelovetobebakedforandpeoplelovetoreceivegifts.CombinethetwoandallyourChristmaseshave,quiteliterally,comeatonce.

Christmasisabigtimeforconfectioneryinourshops:ourdisplaysarepiledhighwithfestivetreats.SomethingstastelikeChristmas–theChocolatePanfortewithOrangesandFigs(seehere),forexample,withallthosewinterspices.SomethingslooklikeChristmas–thelittlelog-shapedPecanandProseccoTruffles(seehere)–whileothersmanagetobothtasteandlooklikeChristmas,inthecaseoftheover-sizedSpicedPralineMeringues(seehere),whichcanbehungfromyourtreebeforebeingeaten.

Thelongshelflife,generalrobustnessandgenerousyieldofmanyoftherecipesinthischapterallowsyoutobeverygenerous.AbatchoftheAlmondandAniseedNougat(seehere)ortheChocolatePanfortewithOrangesandFigs(seehere)willenableyoutocrossoffallthecousinsonyourChristmaslistinonego,shouldyousochoose.Cut,sliceandwrapasyoulike,dependingonwhoyouaremakingthemforandhowbigyouwantyourslicestobe.ThePecanandProseccoTruffles(seehere)andtheChocolate-coatedRubyRedGrapefruitPeel(seehere)makewellovertwentypieceseach.Arrangeahandfuloftheseinindividualparchment-linedboxes,andhappinessisguaranteed.Thebright-red

RaspberryLollipops(seehere)lookgreatpackagedinindividualsee-throughbags,asdotheWoodlandMeringues(seehere)inpacksofaboutten.

Confectioneryisforlife,though,notjustforChristmas.Valentine’sday,Mother’sday,Father’sday,Hanukkah,ChineseNewYear,afriend’sbirthday,Easter,Thanksgiving,Eid...whatevertheoccasion,there’snothingmoresatisfyingthanturningupatafriend’shousewithalittlebag,boxorstickofsomething,andbeingabletoslipinthefactthatyoumadethem.‘Youmadethem?!’It’sareal‘tada!’moment:thecelebrationofsmallandsweetthings.

Thesatisfactionofgivingissecondonly,perhaps,tothesatisfactionyougetwhenyoucrackthemakingofaconfectioneryrecipeforthefirsttime.QuiteliterallyinthecaseoftheRaspberryLollipops(seehere),asitdoestakepracticetogetthemtotheirperfectlybrittlestate.Workingwithsugar–makingnougat,makingcaramel–alsotakespractice.It’snotthatit’sparticularlycomplicated,itjustrequiresyoutobeontopoftimingsandtoknowsugarwellenoughtogaugewhat’sgoingoninthepan.Asugarthermometerwillbeyourbestfriendatthisstage,takingtheguessworkoutoftheequationandallowingyoutorelaxintheknowledgethat,solongasyoudoexactlyasyouaretoldintermsoftimingsandtemperatures,WillyWonkawillbeproud.

KitAswesay,asugarthermometerisabigmust:youwon’tbeabletomakemanyoftherecipesinthischaptersuccessfullywithoutone.Apipingbagisalsoneededforacoupleofrecipes:youcaneitherinvestinapipingbagwhichcomeswitharangeofnozzles,oryoucanbuydisposablepipingbagsandcutholesintheends.Ofcourse,ifyoudon’thaveeitherofthesethingsbutwouldliketohavethem,you’reallsetwithyouranswertotheinevitablequestion‘ButwhatwouldyoulikeforChristmas?’fromallthosewhoaresogratefulfortheconfectionerygiftsyouhavejustgiventhem.

AnoteontheweatherAlthoughtheconfectioneryinthischaptershouldbeenoughtocheereveryoneupwhatevertheweather,theweatherisactuallysomethingyouneedtobemindfulofwhenworkingwithsugar.Ifit’sparticularlyhumidormuggy,itcancauseproblemswiththesettingofthecaramelsorlollipops,forexample.The

formercanendup‘weeping’andthelattercanendupbendy.Thisisnottoputyouoffmakingeitheroftheseifitiswarm,buttoexplainwhythingsmaynotbegoingtoplan.EventhepatienceofSarahJoseph–knowntobeneitherweepynorflaky–wastestedthroughthere-creationofbothoftheserecipesduringaparticularlyhumidJuly.SarahworkedcloselywithusonthemakingofSweet,testingeveryrecipetomakesurethatwhatworksinourshopsandbakeryalsoworksathome.Whenyoucrackyourfirstlollipop–‘Itworks!Itcracks!It’snotbendy!’–spareasmileforSarah:thingscrackingwhenthey’remeanttoandnotcrackingwhentheyshouldn’tisinnosmallpartduetoallherhardwork.

RecipeListSaffronandpistachiobrittle

RaspberrylollipopsWoodlandmeringues

SpicedpralinemeringuesPecanandProseccotruffles

Chocolate-coatedrubyredgrapefruitpeelAlmondandaniseednougat

ChocolatepanfortewithorangesandfigsSesamebrittle

CoconutmeringuebrittleHoney,macadamiaandcoconutcaramelsMiddleEasternmillionaire’sshortbread

Saffronandpistachiobrittle

Helenwasinspiredtocreatethisafterherfirstvisit,withhergoodfriendGoli,totheannualPersianmarketheldintherunuptoNowruz–PersianNewYear–intheheartofLondon’sMarylebone.CrowdedwithsavvyandpurposefulIranianwomengettingholdofthegoodstheyneededfortheirNewYearpreparations,Helen–notentirelysurewhatshewaspreparingfor–returnedhomewithacashmerescarf,aceramicreplicaofapomegranate,aboxofchickpeahalva,twogoldfish(realones),jarsofcarrotjamandvegetablepickles,adozenhyacinthbulbsand,crucially,somewonderfulsaffronnutbrittle.

OurversiondepartsfromtheSohanAsalishebought,butmentionneedstobemadeofhowstronglytheladywhosoldittoHelenfeltaboutherusingPersiansaffroninthefirstinstance.‘Anythingelse,’saidMimi,‘isinferior.’ThesamecouldalsobesaidofIranianpistachios–theyarelongandelegantandavibrantgreen–butregularpistachiosarealsofine.

MAKES12PIECES(ORMOREORLESS,DEPENDINGONSIZE)

150gflakedalmonds270gsoftlightbrownsugar120gunsaltedbutter2tbspboilingwater½tspsaffronthreads,steepedin2tspboilingwater¼tspflakyseasalt½tspbicarbonateofsoda20gshelledpistachiokernels,roughlychopped(or,ifyoucanfindthem,thegreenIranian

varietyareevenbetteranddonotneedtobechopped)

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Spreadthealmondsoutonabakingtrayandroastforabout7minutes,oruntillightgoldenbrown.Turnofftheovenbutleavethenutsinsidesothattheystaywarm(sothatthebrittlewon’thardensoquicklywhenthenutsareadded).

2Linea30x23cmbakingtray(withalippededge)withbakingparchmentandsetaside.

3Putthesugar,butterandwaterintoamediumsaucepanandplaceoveralowheat.Stiruntilthesugarhasmelted.Increasetheheattomediumandstopstirring.Simmeruntilthetemperaturereachesbetween140°Cand143°Conasugarthermometer(‘softcrack’stage).Turnofftheheatbutleavethepanonthestovetop.Carefullyaddthesaffronthreadswiththesteepingwaterandflakyseasalt:itwillbubbleupabit,sobecareful.Stirverygentlytocombine,thenaddthebicarbonateofsodaandwarmalmonds.Stiragainuntilthemixturefrothsupandisevenlymixed.

4Workingquickly,pourthemixalloverthelinedtrayandcarefullytiltthetrayuntilitisevenlyspread.Donotuseanyutensilstodothis,astheconsistencyofthecaramelwillbechanged.Sprinklethechoppedpistachiosalloverthetopandpresslightlywithaspatulaorthebackofaspoonsotheysticktothecaramel.Setasidetocoolcompletely–thiswilltakeabout45minutes–beforebreakingintosmallerpiecestoserve.

Ifthebrittlestickstothesaucepansomuchthatit’shardtoclean,addsomeboilingwatertothepanandreturnittotheheatforaminute:thebrittlewillquicklyloosen.

Asugarthermometerisamusthere.

Thebrittlewillkeepforabout10daysinanairtightcontainer.Don’tbetemptedtostoreitinthefridge,asitwill‘weep’.

Saffronandpistachiobrittle

Raspberrylollipops

WemaketheseinheartshapesaroundValentine’sday,butthey’reawonderfulwaytomakelovedonessmileallyearround–inaroundshape!Youcaneithershapethembyhandor–ifyou’reafterperfection–usebottomlesscakeringsasyourmould:7or8cmringsaregoodforregularroundlollipops,butthereareallsortsofshapesyoucanplaywith–hearts,stars,andsoforth.

Whetheryouareshapingthembyhandorusingacakering,don’tmaketheseonarainyorhumidday:thecaramelwill‘weep’andyou’llendupwithbendylollipops(whichwillnotbesosmile-inducing).

MAKES12

60gfreshraspberries250gcastersugar250gliquidglucose40mlwater20gfreeze-driedraspberries,halfleftwholeandhalflightlycrushed

1Linethreebakingtrayswithbakingparchment,thenlaytwelvelollipopsticksoutflatonthelinedtrays–thelollipopsarelargesotheyrequiresomespace–andsetaside.

2Tomaketheraspberrypurée,blitzthefreshraspberriesinthesmallbowlofafoodprocessor,thenstrainthroughafine-meshsieveplacedoverabowl:youshouldendupwith1½–2tablespoonsofseedlesspurée.Setaside.

3Putthesugarandglucoseintoamediumsaucepanandstirinthewater.Placeoveramediumheatandcookforabout3minutes,stirring,untilthesugarmelts.Increasetheheattomedium-highandboilforabout10minutes,untilitreaches147°Conasugarthermometer.Precisioniskeyhere,butitisbettertobe1degreehotterthan1degreebelow.Removefromtheheatandaddtheraspberrypurée:takecarehere,asthesugarwillbebubbling.Stirslowlyandgentlywitha

metalspoonuntilcombined,takingcarenottomixtooquickly,asthiswillcreatelargeairbubbleswhichwillstayinthelollipops.Oncefullycombined,lightlystirthroughthewholeandlightlycrusheddriedraspberries,againtakingcareasyoudoso.Thecaramelshouldhavestoppedbubblingbythistime.

4Immediatelyshapethelollipops;spoon2–3dessertspoonsofthemixtureontothetopone-thirdofthelollipopsticks.Usethespoontocreateacircleifshapingbyhand.You’llneedtoworkfasthere,asthesugarmixturewillthickenquickly.Dividethefreeze-driedraspberriesequallybetweenthelollipops.

5Ifyouareusingcakerings(seeintroduction),placethemoverthetopthirdofthelollipopsticksandpourin2–3tablespoonsofthecaramel.

6Looselylayasheetofbakingparchmentoverthetopofthelollipopstostopthemsweating.Setasideuntilcompletelycoolandset:thisshouldtakeabouthalfanhour.Oncecoolandset,removetheringsfromthelollipops(ifusing)andserve.

Asugarthermometerisamusthere,alongwithtwelvelollipopsticks.Themetalcakeringsareoptional.

Thesewillkeepforupto1weekinanairtighttin,storedbetweenlayersofbakingparchment.

Raspberrylollipops

WoodlandmeringuesHelenwasinspiredtocreatetheseafterawalkaroundKewGardenswithheryoungsons.Itwasautumnandthegroundwascoveredinconkers.Delightinginherboys’delightatthelittlefallentreats,Helenthenhadtobetheonetoinformthemthat,no,eatingconkerswasreallynotsuchagoodidea.TheirlookofcollectivebafflementwassogreatthatHelen’simaginationsetouttocreatesomethingthatbothlookslikeithasfallenfromatreeand,crucially,iseminentlyedible.These‘woodlandmeringues’aretheresult.

We’vemadetwoversionshere–darkchocolatewithhazelnutsandwhitechocolatewithfreeze-driedstrawberries.Youcanmakeoneortheotheroracombinationofboth.Thedarkchocolateversionsarepictured.Wesellthemintheshopsinlittlesee-throughbags,forpeopletotakehomeortobuyasagift.They’realovelybite-sizedwaytoendamealorparty.

MAKESABOUT70

MERINGUE120geggwhites(from3largeeggs)½tspcreamoftartar240gcastersugar¾tspcornflour1/8tspbakingpowder½tspvanillaextract

WHITECHOCOLATECOATING(HALVETHEQUANTITIESIFYOUAREDOINGAMIXOFDARKANDWHITECHOCOLATE)140gwhitechocolate,choppedinto1–2cmpieces50gfreeze-driedstrawberries,finely

chopped

DARKCHOCOLATECOATING(HALVETHEQUANTITIESIFYOUAREDOINGAMIXOFDARKANDWHITECHOCOLATE)200ghazelnuts100gdarkcookingchocolate(70%cocoasolids),choppedinto1–2cmpieces40gmilk

chocolate,choppedinto1–2cmpieces

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

2Ifmakingthedarkchocolatecoating,spreadthehazelnutsoutonasmallbakingtrayandroastfor10minutes.Transfertoacleanteatowel,drawinthesides,thenrubtogethertoremovesomeoftheskins.Chopthenutsveryfinely–it’sbettertodothisbyhand,ratherthaninafoodprocessor,wherethenutswillbecome‘dusty’–thensetasideinabowl.

3Tomakethemeringue,reducetheoventemperatureto140°C/120°CFan/GasMark1.Puttheeggwhitesintothebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeedforabout2minutes,untiltheyappearfoamy.Addthecreamoftartarandcontinuetobeatuntiltheyarestiffbutnotdryorcrumbly:about30seconds.Placethesugarinabowl,addthecornflourandbakingpowder(addingbothensuresacompletelydryandcrispmeringue),andgradually–onetablespoonatatime–addthesugartotheeggwhites.Continuetobeatforabout3minutes,untilthemixtureisthickandglossy.Beatinthevanilla,thenspoonintoapipingbagwitha1.5cmwidenozzleinplace.

4Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingparchment(stickingeachsheetfirmlytothetraywithabitofthemeringuemix).Pipesmalldroplets–or‘kisses’–ontoeachlinedtray:thebaseofeachdropletshouldbeabout3cmwide.Raisethepipingbagasyoupipe,sothattheyare4–5cmhighandyoucreateafinetipatthetop.Onceallthemeringueshavebeenpiped,placebothtraysintheovenatonce.Immediatelyreducetheoventemperatureto120°C/100°CFan/GasMark½–youwantittobeslightlyhotterwhentheygoin,togivethemeringuesacrunch–andbakefor2½hours.Themeringuesaredonewhentheylookdryandsoundhollowwhentappedgentlyunderneath.Turnofftheovenbutleavethemeringuesinsideuntiltheyarecool,proppingthedooropenwithawoodenspoon.

5Forthedarkchocolatetopping,placethedarkandmilkchocolateinamediumheatproofbowloverapanofsimmeringwater,makingsurethebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewater.Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted.Oneatatime,dipthebaseofthemeringuesintothemeltedchocolate,followedbythechoppedhazelnuts,thenplaceonaparchment-linedtray.

6Forthewhitechocolatetopping,followtheinstructionsforthedarkchocolateabove,dippingthebaseintothedriedstrawberriesinstead.

Whenmeltedandusedasacoating,darkchocolatecandevelopwhitestreaksafteradayorso.Thiswon’taffectthetastebutcanbeavoidedbytemperingthechocolate(seehere).Temperingthechocolateisoptionalhere,however,asthechocolateiscoveredbythechoppedhazelnutssoanywhitestreakswon’treallybeseen.

Youwillneedapipingbagwitha1.5cmwidenozzle.Youcanalsobuydisposablepipingbags,ifyouprefer.

Thesewillkeepforupto10days,storedinanairtightcontainer.

Woodlandmeringues

Spicedpralinemeringues

YotamfirstmadethesearoundChristmastimeforhisweeklycolumnintheGuardian.Theyareintentionallyover-sized–justasgoodhungfromthetreeasadecorationastheyaretoeat–andlastfortendays,so,fortunately,theiruseasbothdecorationandedibletreatarenotmutuallyexclusiveoptions.

Ifyouwanttomakethemjustforthetable,usethesameamountofmixtoproducetwelvemeringues.Thesearegreatservedwithcreamandstewedcranberriesasaseasonaldessert.

MAKES6(EXTRA-LARGE)OR12(REGULAR-SIZED)

50gblanchedalmonds300gcastersugar25mlwater½tspgroundcinnamon1/8tspgroundclovesfinelygratedzestof1largeorange(1tbsp)¼tspflakyseasalt150geggwhites(from4largeeggs)

1Preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.

2Spreadthealmondsoutonasmallbakingtrayandroastintheovenfor5–7minutes,untillightlybrowned.Setasidetocool.Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingparchmentandsetaside.

3Place50gofsugarinasmallsaucepanwiththewaterandstirtocombine.Cookoverahighheatforabout4minutes,untilithasturnedalightgoldenbrown;donotstir,justgentlyshakethepantohelpthesugardissolve.Addthealmondsandcookfor1minute,sothenutsarecoatedandthecaramelturnsdark,withoutburning.Pourthemixtureontooneofthelinedbakingtraysandsetasideuntilcool.

4Oncecool,breakthepralineintosmallerpieces,placeinafoodprocessorandblitztoformaroughpowder.Removefromthemachineandplaceinashallowbowlwiththespices,orangezestandsalt.Mix,thensetasideuntilreadytouse.

5Spreadtheremainingsugaroutonthesecondlinedbakingtrayandplaceintheovenfor7minutes,untilthesugarishot.Removefromtheovenandreducethetemperatureto130°C/110°CFan/GasMark¾.Assoonasthesugarisoutoftheoven,placetheeggwhitesinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace,andwhiskonahighspeeduntiltheybegintofrothup.Carefullyaddthehotsugartothewhiskingeggwhites,1tablespoonatatime,andcontinuebeatingfor7–8minutesuntilthemixtureiscompletelycold.Atthispointitshouldbesilkyandthickandkeepitsshapewhenyouliftalittlebitfromthebowl.

6Linethetwolargebakingtraysonceagainwithbakingparchment.Useanextra-largeservingspoontoscoopupsomemeringue,anduseanotherlargespoontohelpshapeitintoaroughballthesizeofalargeapple.Sprinklesomepralineoverhalfthemeringueball,thenplaceonthebakingtray.Repeatwiththerestofthemixture,spacingtheballsabout10cmaparttoallowroomforincreaseinsize.

7Placethemeringuesintheovenfor2–2½hours.Checkthattheyaredonebyliftingthemfromthetrayandgentlytappingtomakesuretheoutsideiscompletelyfirmandthecentreisonlyalittlesoft.Removefromtheovenandleaveonthetraytocoolcompletely.

Thesewillkeepfor10days.Ifhangingthemeringues,useastripofribbontogentlywrapeachone,asyouwouldapresent,creatingabowandleavingalongpieceofribbontohangthemwith.Ifyouarenothangingthemonthetree,wrapthemlooselyinaluminiumfoilandkeepatroomtemperature.

Spicedpralinemeringues

PecanandProseccotruffles

TheseweremadefortheChristmasmenuatOttolenghi,hencetheirshapeaslittleYulelogs,butyoucanjustrollthemintoballs,ifyouprefer.Coatingthetrufflesinathinlayerofchocolateismessy,weknow,butit’sworthitforthesatisfactionofbitingintothethinshelltorevealtherich,smoothtruffleunderneath.

MAKESABOUT35

45gpecanhalves55gmilkchocolate,blitzedinafoodprocessoruntilfine170gdarkchocolate(70%cocoa

solids),blitzedinafoodprocessoruntilfine,plusanextra80g,melted,forcoating50mldoublecream

30gunsaltedbutter50mlProsecco1½tspbrandy30gDutch-processedcocoapowder,fordusting

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.

2Spreadthepecansoutonabakingtrayandroastfor10minutes.Removefromtheoven,setasidefor5minutes,thenchopintoverysmall(roughly2mm)pieces.Setaside.

3Placethechocolateinalargeheatproofbowlandsetaside.Putthecreamandbutterintoasmallsaucepanandplaceoveramedium-highheat.Assoonastheycometotheboil,pourthecreamandbutteroverthechocolate.Leaveforaminute,thenstirgentlytomelt.Ifthereisanysolidchocolateremaining,placethebowloverapanofgentlysimmeringwatertohelpthingsalong.AddtheProsecco,brandyandpecansandfoldgentlytocombineuntilasmoothganacheisformed.Setasideforthemixtocometoroomtemperaturesothatitisfirmenoughtopipe.Ittakesalongtimetosetatroomtemperature,butthisis

essentialfortheperfectlysmoothandeventextureneeded.Giveitagentlestirfromtimetotimesothatitismalleableenoughtopipe.Don’tbetemptedtospeedupthecoolingprocessinthefridge,asthiswillresultinanunevenandlumpyset.

4Transferthemixtoapipingbagfittedwitha1cmwideplainnozzleandpipeseven30cmlonglogsontoalargeparchment-linedbakingtray.Placeinthefridgeforatleast30minutestoset,thencutthelogsintofivesmallerlogs,eachabout6cmlong:usingawarm,dryknifewillhelpyoucutthemcleanly.

5Havetheextrameltedchocolateinonebowlatthereadyandthecocoapowderinaseparateshallowbowlortrayalongside.Diponelogatatimeintothechocolatetolightlycoat,thenrollitinthepalmofyourhandtoremovetheexcessandensurethatthechocolatecoatingisniceandthinandsetsevenly.Dropthetruffleintothecocoapowderandrollgentlytolightlycoat.You’llneedtoworkfasthere,asthechocolatewillsetquickly.Getsomeonetohelp,ifyoucan,sothatonepersonisonthemeltedchocolateandtheotherisonthecocoadusting;thismeansyouwon’thavetokeepwashingyourhandsbetweencoatingandrolling.Onceset,afterabout30minutes,lightlyshaketoremoveanyexcesscocoa,andserve.

Apipingbagwitha1cmwidenozzleisneededifyouwanttomaketheseintologshapes.

Thetruffleswillkeepforupto10daysinanairtightcontainerinthefridge.

PecanandProseccotruffles

Chocolate-coatedrubyredgrapefruitpeel

Othercitrusfruitscanbeusedinsteadofthegrapefruit,ifyouprefer,solongastheyhaveathickskinandcanbepeeledwiththefingers:orangesworkwell.Fruitswithathinnerskin–lemonsandlimes,forexample–aren’treallysuitable.Whenpeelingyourfruit,keepthewhitepithattached.Don’tworryaboutthebitterness,mostofthisisremovedthroughblanching.

WeliketomaketheseatthesametimeastheCampariandGrapefruitSorbet(seehere),asyouwillhavethepeelfromtwolargegrapefruitleftoverfrommakingthesorbet.

MAKES32PIECES

2largerubyredgrapefruit(670g)180gchocolate(70%cocoasolids),roughlychoppedSUGARSYRUP1litrewater500gcastersugar1cinnamonstick1bayleaf

1Sliceeachgrapefruitintoquartersandtheneachquarterinhalflengthways,soyouhaveeightsegmentspergrapefruit(sixteenintotal).Carefullyseparatethefruitfromthethickpeel(eatorusethefleshforthesorbethere):takeasmallparingknifeandhalveeachofthesixteensegmentsofpeellengthwayssothatyouhavethirty-twopiecesaltogether.

2Fillalargesaucepanwithplentyofwaterandbringtotheboiloverahighheat.Onceboiling,addthepiecesofgrapefruitpeel.Pressthemdownlightlyintothewaterwithalargespoonandblanchforabout30seconds,justuntilthewatercomesbacktotheboil.Drainthepeeloveracolanderintothesink.Rinsewell

undercoldrunningwater,thenrepeatthewholeprocessoncemore,startingwithfreshwater–thisremovessomeofthebitternessfromthepeel.Tipthegrapefruitpeelontoacleanteatowelandleavetodry.Itisimportanttoallowtheskinstodrytopreventthesugarsyrupfromcrystallizinglater.

3Tomakethesugarsyrup,placealltheingredientsinamediumsaucepanoveramedium-highheat.Cookforabout2minutes,stirringafewtimes,untilthesugarhasdissolved.Bringtoaboil,thenaddthegrapefruitpeel.Covertheliquidwithacartouche–aroundofbakingparchment–andplaceaplateontoptoensurethatthepeelisfullysubmerged.Keepthepanonalivelysimmerfor60–90minutes,untiltheskinsaretranslucentandyouareleftwithabout100mlofsyrupyliquid.Thiscantakeupto1½hours.

4Drainthegrapefruitpeeland,usingtongsoraslottedspoon,transferthemtoawirerack.Thecinnamon,bayleafandremainingsyrupcanbediscarded.Setthegrapefruitpeelasideatroomtemperature,uncovered,untildry,thismaytakeupto12hoursormoredependingonthehumidityoftheroom.

5Oncedry,coatthepeel;placethechocolateinaheatproofbowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater,makingsurethebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewater.Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted,thenremovethepanfromtheheatbutkeepthebowloverthehotwatersothatitdoesnotcooltooquicklyandthicken(ifitdoes,simplyreturnthepantotheheatforawhile).Takingonepieceofcandiedpeelatatime–liftingthembyhandhereisthebestoption,ratherthanusingtongs–diphalfintothemeltedchocolateandshakegentlytoremoveanyexcess.Transfertoawireracktoset,andserve.

Whenmeltedandusedasacoating,darkchocolatecandevelopwhitestreaksafteradayorso.Thiswon’taffectthetaste,butcanbeavoidedbytemperingthechocolate(seehere).

Peelthefruitupto3daysinadvanceandstoreinazip-lockbagorairtightcontainerinthefridge.

Oncecoated,thepeelkeepsforaround10daysinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature.

Chocolate-coatedrubyredgrapefruitpeel

AlmondandaniseednougatHelenlearnedhowtomakenougatfromaVHScassetteshefoundinthe1990s!ItshowedtheItalianmotherofanAustralianchefcalledMarcoLorimakingherfamily’sfamoustorrone.Essentiallythesamethingasnougat,it’sknownastorroneinItalyandnougatinFrance.Itcanrangeintexturefromsofttofirm,dependingonhowhighyoutakethetemperatureofthesugarsyrup:thehigherthetemperature,theharderthenougat.Oursfallsintothesoft-but-chewycamp:it’sstillalittlefirm,butwon’tbreakyourteeth.You’llknowyou’vebeenontherighttrackwhen,24hoursafterit’smade,yournougathasasmallamountofmovementwhenpressed.Itshouldn’tbetoostickyandshouldholditsshapewhencut.

Makingyourownnougatmightseemabitintimidating,butdon’tbeputoff:theresultsarehugelyrewardingand(asisalwaysthecasewhencookingwithsugar)it’sjustaboutbeingorganizedandstayingontopoftemperaturesandtimings.Thesyrupneedstobeatthecorrecttemperaturejustastheeggwhitesreachsoftpeaks,andyou’llneedtoworkfast,asthenougatfirmsupquicklyonceit’sbeenmade.

MAKES6BARSOR36SMALLERPIECES

2sheets(31x23cm)ediblericepaper(orwaferpaper,madefrompotatostarch;orbakingparchment)400gwholerawalmonds,skinon

260gwholeblanchedhazelnuts2tbspwholeaniseed(optional)300gcastersugar200mlwater270gliquidglucose60gorangeblossomhoney(oranotherfloralvariety)25mlPernodorouzo(oranotheraniseed

liqueur)scrapedseedsof1vanillapod1/8tspsalt95geggwhites(from3mediumeggs)

1Linethebaseofa23x24cmbakingtinwithbakingparchmentandgreasetheedgesofthetin.Layonesheetofricepaper,smoothsidedown,ontopoftheparchmentpaper–theedgesofthepaperwillriseuptheshortersidesofthetin–thensetthetinaside.

2Preheattheovento170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.Spreadallthenutsoutonabakingtrayandroastfor18minutes,untiltheyarefragrantandgoldenbrown.Reducetheoventemperatureto90°C/70°CFan/GasMark¼andleavethenutsintheovenuntilreadytofoldintothenougat:themixwillseizeupifthenutsareaddedcold.

3Placetheaniseed,ifusing,inamediumheavy-basedsaucepanandtoastoveramediumheatfor2minutes,untilfragrant.Transfertoapestleandmortar,lightlycrushandsetaside.

4Inamediumsaucepan,combinethesugar,water,glucose,honey,Pernodorouzo,vanillaseedsandsalt,andwhisktocombine.Placeoveramediumheatandsimmergentlyuntilthesugarhasdissolved,thenincreasetheheattomedium-high.Resistingtheurgetostir,continuetocookforabout15–20minutes,untilthetemperatureonasugarthermometerisclosetoreaching118°C.Atthisstage,placetheeggwhitesinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplaceandwhiskonmediumspeedtoformsoftpeaks.Keepaneyeontheboilingsyrupand,whenthetemperatureonthethermometerregistersexactly121°C,pourhalfofthehotsyrupintothesoftpeaksinasteadystream.Continuetowhiskonamediumspeedandreturntheremaininghalfofthesyruptotheheat.

5Continuetosimmertheremainingsyrupuntilthetemperaturereachesexactly145°C,takingcarethatitdoesnotgoover148°C.Oncethetemperatureisreached,pourthehotsyrup–itwillbelightgoldenatthisstage–overtheeggwhitesinasteadystream,whiskingallthetime.Continuetowhiskforanother6–8minutes,untilyouhaveathickribbon-likeconsistency.Tocheckifitisready,takealittleofthemixturebetweenyourfingersandpresstogetherthenpullapart:themixshouldsticktogetherlikechewinggum.Usingaplasticspatulaorlargemetalspoon,foldthroughtheaniseedandwarmnuts.Youneedtobecarefulhere,asthebowlofthemachinewillstillbehot.Scrapethemixtureintothelinedbakingtinandevenoutwithanoffsetorregularspatulaorpalette

knife.

6Coverthesurfacewithsomemorericepaper,smoothsideup,andpressdownfirmlytoremoveanyairbubbles.Setasidetocoolovernight,uncoveredorwithaclean,dryteatoweldrapedoverthetop,thenslideahotknifearoundtheedgestoremoveitfromthetin.Cutinto6longbars(23x4cm),ifgivingasgifts,orintosmallersquares.

Asugarthermometerisamusthere.Weusea24x23cmbakingtin,4cmdeep;alternatively,youcouldusetwo18x18cmsquaretins.

Wrappedtightlyinbakingparchmentandclingfilm,thenougatwillkeepforuptoamonthinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureorinthefridge.

Almondandaniseednougat

ChocolatepanfortewithorangesandfigsWealwayslovetohaveawheelofpanfortearound.Alittlesliceisperfectmid-morningwithcoffee,orthroughoutthedaywheneverthereisatangycheeseonthetable,lookingforsomethingsweettocomplementit.Italsomakesforareallylovelygift,givenwholeorasindividuallywrappedsegments,whenyou’regoingouttosupper.Thethrillofsaying,‘Somethingforthetable–Imadeitforyou!’neverfailstosatisfy.

Startwiththebest-qualitydriedfruitandnutsyoucanfind,andwithreallyfreshspices.Itwillmakeallthedifference.

MAKES10SEGMENTS(USINGA23CMROUNDTIN)ORBARS(USINGA20CMSQUARETIN)

150gwholeblanchedhazelnuts150gwholeblanchedalmonds200gcandiedwhole(orsliced)orangesorclementines,cutinto1cmpieces(ormixedpeel,as

analternative)100gdriedfigs,toughstemsremoved,cutinto1cmpiecesfinelygratedzestof1orange(1½tsp)

240gplainflour100gDutch-processedcocoapowder2tspgroundcinnamon1tspgroundginger¼tspgroundcardamom(seehereincreaseto½tspifstartingwithshop-bought,pre-ground)

½tspgroundcloves½tspfreshlygratednutmeg½tspsalt½tspfreshlygroundblackpepper150gdarkcookingchocolate(70%cocoasolids),roughlychopped175gcastersugar250ghoney(usewhateverhoneyyoulikethetasteof:orangeblossomwillbringafloralnote;

chestnutwillbringan‘earthiness’)

1Preheattheovento180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4.Greasea23cmroundor20cmsquaretinandlinewithbakingparchment,thensetaside.

2Toroastthenuts,spreadthehazelnutsandalmondsoutonabakingtrayandroastforabout10minutes,untiltheyarelightbrownandfragrant.Reducethe

oventemperatureto120°C/100°CFan/GasMark½andleaveintheovenuntilreadytouse:thiswillmakethemeasiertofoldthroughthemix,whichwillseizeupifthenutsareaddedcold.

3Placethechoppedorangesorclementinesinalargebowlwiththefigsandorangezest.Combinetheflour,cocoapowder,thespices,saltandpepperinasmallbowlandsiftdirectlyoverthechoppedfruitandzest.Combinewithawoodenspoonor,betterstill,useyourhandstogetamoreevendistribution.Setaside.

4Placethechocolateinasmallheatproofbowlsetoverapanofbarelysimmeringwater,makingsurethebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewater.Whenithasnearlyallmelted,stirgentlywithasmallspatulaandturnofftheheat,leavingthebowloverthehotwatertokeepthechocolatewarm.

5Makethesyrupbyplacingthesugarandhoneyinasmallsaucepanoveralowheat,stirringfromtimetotime.Assoonasthesugarhasdissolved,stopstirringandincreasetheheattohigh.Allowthemixturetosimmeruntilthesyruphasreached114°Conasugarthermometer(the‘softboil’stage).Keepacloseeyeonthesyruphere,asitwillcometotemperatureveryquickly.Don’tpanicifyourbatchgoesover114°C:therecipewillstillwork,itjustmeansthesetwillbefirmer.

6Carefullypourthehotsyrupoverthechoppedfruitandflour,thenaddthewarmnutsstraightfromtheoven(increasingtheoventemperatureto180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4assoonasthenutsareout).Pourthewarmmeltedchocolateoverthefruitandnutsandstireverythingtogetherwithalargewoodenspoonuntilwellcombined.Themixturewillbeverythickandwilltakeabitofefforttocombine,butdon’tworry,thisisnormal.Useaspatulatopressthemixintothepreparedtin.Whenjustcoolenoughtotouch,wetyourhandsandpatthemixdownsothatitiseven.Useasmallpieceofbakingparchmenttohelpflattenit,ifyoufindituseful.

7Bakefor18minutes,untilthepanforteissetbutnottoohard.Removefromtheovenandleavetocoolcompletelyinthetin(preferablyforafewdays,seenote)beforeslicingintotensegmentsorbars(around10x4cm).

Asugarthermometerisamusthere.Ifyouwanttocreateawheelshape,usea23cmroundcaketin;alternatively,usea20cmsquaretin.

Thiskeepsverywell–foratleast2months–wrappedinbakingparchmentandclingfilmandstoredinacool,dryplace.Youcaneatitassoonasit’sset,butit’sactuallymuchbetterleftforaweeksothatit’shadsometimetosit.

Chocolatepanfortewithorangesandfigs

Sesamebrittle

WemakelargesheetsofthisintheOttolenghibakery,whicharethenbrokenintoshards.Largeshardsaregreatasagarnishforallsortsofdesserts–achocolatemousse,forexample,whilesmallershardslookgreatonthelargeorminichocolatetarts(seehereandhere).Haveaplayaroundwithshapesandsizesandwithallsortsofdesserts.They’realsolovelytosnackonjustastheyare.

Youcanmakethiswithwhitesesameseedsonly,ifyoulike,butdotryandgetholdoftheblackaswell:thecontrastlooksfantastic.

MAKES20SHARDS(ORMOREORLESS,DEPENDINGONSIZE)

35gblacksesameseeds90gwhitesesameseeds100gcastersugar100gliquidglucose50gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1/8tspsalt

1Preheattheovento190°C/170°CFan/GasMark5.

2Spreadallthesesameseedsoutonabakingtrayandtoastfor10–15minutes,stirringhalfwaythrough,untilgoldenbrown.Keeptheseedswarminalowovenwhileyoumakethesyrup.

3Cutfourpiecesofbakingparchmenttofitontwolargebakingtrays.Setaside.

4Placethesugar,glucose,butterandsaltinasmallsaucepanoverahighheatandstircontinuouslyuntilthemixtureiscombinedandcomingtotheboil.Removefromtheheat,addthewarmsesameseedsandstirthrough.

5Placetwoofthepiecesofbakingparchmentonaheatproofsurfaceandpourhalfofthesesamecaramelontoeachsheet.Coverwiththeotherpiecesof

parchmentpaperandusearollingpintospreadthecarameluntil2mmthick.

6Slidethepaperandcaramelontothebakingtrays,thenremovethetoplayerofparchment;ifanycaramelstickstothetoplayerofpaper,justscrapeitbackdown.Placethetraysintheovenandbakefor20minutes,untilgolden.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolbeforebreakingintoshards.

Thesewillkeepforupto1weekinanairtightcontainer.

Sesamebrittle

Coconutmeringuebrittle

Thesearesomewherebetweenameringueandanold-fashionedcoconutmacaroon:assweetasyou’dwantandexpect,butwithmoreofacrunch.They’reinformal,rusticandexceptionallymoreish.

We’veofferedbothdarkandwhitechocolateversionshere,soeitherchoosebetweenthecoatingsorcoverhalfthebatchinoneandhalfintheother.We’vekeptthedarkchocolateversionplainbut,aswiththewhitechocolateversion,asprinkleoffreeze-driedcherriesorraspberriesalsoworkswell.

MAKES12

75gsliveredalmonds(orwholeblanchedalmonds)100gicingsugar50gdesiccatedcoconut75geggwhites(from2largeeggs)1/8tspsalt75gcastersugar½tspalmondextract

DARKCHOCOLATECOATING(HALVETHEQUANTITIESIFYOUAREDOINGAMIXOFDARKANDWHITECHOCOLATE)120gdarkcookingchocolate(70%cocoasolids),roughlychoppedinto1cmpieces,tocoat

WHITECHOCOLATECOATING(HALVETHEQUANTITIESIFYOUAREDOINGAMIXOFDARKANDWHITECHOCOLATE)

120gwhitechocolate,roughlychoppedinto1cmpieces25gfreeze-driedcherriesorraspberries,roughlyblitzedinafoodprocessor

1Preheattheovento170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.Spreadthesliveredalmondsoutonabakingtrayandroastforabout5minutes,or10minutesifstartingwithwholealmonds,untilthenutsarestartingtoturnlightbrown.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolbeforechoppingroughly.Keeptheoventurnedon.

2Sifttheicingsugarintoasmallbowl,addthecoconutandthechoppedalmondsandsetasideuntilreadytouse.Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbaking

parchmentandsetaside.

3Tomakethemeringue,placetheeggwhitesandsaltinthebowlofanelectricmixerwiththewhiskattachmentinplace.Beatonamedium-highspeeduntilsoftpeaksform.Graduallyaddthecastersugar,onetablespoonatatime,continuingtowhiskforabout5minutes,untilthemixtureisthickandglossyandstiffpeaksform.Stirthroughthealmondextract,thenremovethebowlfromthemixer.Usealargerubberspatulatogentlybutthoroughlyfoldintheicingsugarmixture.

4Spoontwelvelargespoonfulsofthemixtureontotheparchment-linedtrays.Usingasmallspatula,roughlyspreadthemouttoformshapesabout8cmwideand1–1.5cmthick.Don’ttryforuniformshapesandsizeshere:rusticisgood!Placethetraysintheovenandimmediatelylowerthetemperatureto140°C/120°C/GasMark1.Bakefor1hour,untilthemeringuesaredrythroughoutbuthavenottakenontoomuchcolour.Turnofftheovenbutleavethemeringuesinsideforabout30minutes,proppingthedooropenwithawoodenspoon,tocontinuetocoolanddryout.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolcompletely.

5Tocoatthemeringues:ifmakingthedarkchocolatecoating,placethechocolateinaheatproofbowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater,makingsurethebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthewater.Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted,thenuseasmallmetalspatulatospreadthechocolatealloverthebase(flatside)ofthemeringues.Setasideforabout1houruntilthechocolatehasset,thenpilehighonaplateandserve.

6Ifmakingthewhitechocolatecoating,followtheinstructionsforthedarkchocolateabove,sprinklingsomeoftheblitzedcherriesorraspberriesontopofthechocolateafterit’sbeenbrushedoverthemeringues.

Whenmeltedandusedasacoating,darkchocolatecandevelopwhitestreaksafteradayorso.Thiswon’taffectthetaste,butcanbeavoidedbytemperingthechocolate(seehere).

Thesewillkeepforupto1weekinanairtightcontainer,withpiecesofbakingparchmentbetweenthe

layersofmeringue.

Honey,macadamiaandcoconutcaramels

Thesecaramelsstartedlifeasthefillingtoasweettart.Timeandagain,though,therewasneverquiteenoughtofillthetartshell.Thishadlesstodowithanissueofratiosintherecipe,however,andmoretodowithhowharditwastostopeatingthecaramelbythespoonfulinthefirstplace.Thetartshellwassoondispensedwithaltogethersothatwecouldconcentrateonthefillingalone!Theresultingcaramelslooklovelyaslittlebonbons.Theyalsokeepwell,somakeforterrificgifts,individuallywrappedinbakingparchment.Welikethemonthelongside–around9cm–butyoucanmakethemshorter,ifyoulike,inwhichcaseyou’llmakemore.Makingcaramelisnotdifficult,butittakespractice,sodon’tgiveupifyoudon’tperfectitfirsttimeround.

MAKES18(ORMORE,IFCUTINTOSMALLERPIECES)

160gmacadamianuts70gunsweetenedcoconutflakes100gunsaltedbutter250mldoublecream100grunnyhoney100gliquidglucose160gsoftlightbrownsugarscrapedseedsof½vanillapod¼tspflakyseasalt

1Preheattheovento170°C/150°CFan/GasMark3.Linea20cmsquaretin(atleast3cmdeep)withbakingparchment,makingsurethatthepaperrises3–4cmovertheedgesofthetin,andsetaside.

2Toastthenutsbyspreadingthemoutonabakingtrayandroastfor7minutes,untilalightgoldenbrown.Spreadthecoconutoutonaseparatebakingtrayandtoastforjust2minutes,untilbeginningtoturngoldenbrown.Removebothtraysfromtheoven,lightlycrushingthecoconutwithyourfingers

orarollingpin.Placethenutsandcoconutinamediumheatproofbowlandsetaside.

3Tomakethecaramel,meltthebutterinamediumsaucepanoveralowheat,thenaddthecream,honey,glucose,sugar,vanillaseedsandsalt.Stiruntilcombined,thenincreasetheheattomedium.Bringtoaboil,resistingtheurgetostir,andcontinuetoboiluntilthetemperatureonasugarthermometerreaches123–124°C(thetopendof‘firmball’stage,butcertainlynot‘hardball’stage,whichwouldleadtothecaramelsbeingbrittle).Thiscantakeanywherebetween12and20minutes.Removefromtheheatimmediately–movefasthere,asthetemperatureofthecaramelwillcontinuetorise–andpouroverthenutsandcoconut.Mixtogether,thenpourintothelinedtin,flatteningthesurfacewithasmallspatulaorthebackofaspoon,andsetasideatroomtemperatureforanhourtofirmup.

4Cuttheslabinhalfandtheneachhalfintonine9x2cmrectangles(or6x2cmrectanglesifyouwantthemtobemorebite-sized).Ifnoteatingthesameday,setasidetocool,thencoverwithbakingparchmentandclingfilm.

Asugarthermometerisamusthere.

Thecaramelswillkeepfor2weeksatroomtemperature,outofdirectsunlight,andforupto1monthstoredinthefridge.Storetogetherinanairtightcontainer,orwrappedindividuallyincellophanesheetsorbakingparchmentandclingfilm.

Honey,macadamiaandcoconutcaramels

MiddleEasternmillionaire’sshortbreadAthree-layeredbarwithashortbreadbottom,halvainthemiddle,andaglossytahinicaramelontop.Thiswasawinningcombinationjustwaitingtohappen.Andhappenitdid,thankstoPaulinaBembel,ourheadpastrychef.Paulina,whocomesfromPoland,skilfullyusesourMiddleEasternfavourites–tahiniandhalva–totransformthefamouslycloyingmillionaire’sshortbreadintosomethingsomuchbetter,withaslightbitternessandatouchofsalttooffsetallthatsweetness.

makes16

SHORTBREAD40gicingsugar35gcornflour40gcastersugar175gunsaltedbutter,melted,andsetasidetocoolslightly½tspvanillaextract250gplainflour1/8tspsalt

HALVA200ghalva,roughlycrumbledintosmallpieces80gtahini

TAHINICARAMEL200gcastersugar120mlwater100gunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cubed80mldoublecream150gtahinipaste¼tspflakyseasalt

1Preheattheovento200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6.Linea20cmsquaretinwithbakingparchment,makingsurethatthepaperrisesupovertheedgesofthetin.

2Fortheshortbread,sifttheicingsugarandcornflourintothebowlofanelectricmixerwiththepaddleattachmentinplace,thenaddthecastersugar

andmixonamediumspeed.Withthemachinestillrunning,slowlypourinthemelted-but-cooledbutterandbeatuntilcombined.Addthevanillaandreducethespeedtolow,thensiftintheflourandsaltandcontinuetobeatuntilthedoughcomestogether.Tipthemixtureintothetinanduseyourhandstopatandevenoutthesurface.Bakefor25minutesoruntilgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandsetasideuntilcompletelycool:thiswilltakeanhourorso,sodon’tstartmakingthecarameltoosoonoritwillhavesetbythetimetheshortbreadiscool.

3Forthehalvalayer,placethehalvaandtahiniinasmallbowlandmixwithawoodenspoontocombine.Spreadthemixoverthecooledshortbreadandusethebackofaspoontosmoothitouttoanevenlayer.

4Tomakethecaramel,placethesugarandwaterintoasmallsaucepanandplaceoveramedium-lowheat.Stiroccasionally,untilthesugarhasdissolved,thenincreasetheheattomedium-high.Bringtoaboilandcook–stillataboil–forabout12minutes,untilthesugarisadeepgoldenbrown.Removefromtheheatandaddthebutterandcream:takecarehere,asthemixturewillsplutter.Whisktocombineand,oncethebutterhasmelted,addthetahiniandsalt.Whisktocombineagain,thenpourevenlyoverthehalvalayerinthetin,sothatallofthehalvaiscovered.

5Placeinthefridgeforatleast4hoursuntilset,beforecuttingintobars,about10x2.5cm.Sprinkleapinchofseasaltoverthemiddleofeachbarandserve.

Theshortbreadlayercanbemadeupto4daysinadvanceandstoredinanairtightcontainer.Italsofreezeswell.

Thesewillkeepforupto1weekinanairtightcontainerinthefridge.Removethemfromthefridge20minutesbeforeserving,totakeoffthechill.

MiddleEasternmillionaire’sshortbread

BAKER’STIPSANDNOTES:ANINDEX

Throughoutthebooktherearelotsoftipsandnotesalongsidetherecipes.Mostarealsohere,forgeneraleaseofreference.It’snotacomprehensive‘baker’sbible’:it’sthethingswethinkareusefulandinterestingtoknow,orwhichneedmoreexplanationthanarecipehasthespacetogive.

Bain-marieWeuseabain-marie–awaterbath–whenbakingourHotChocolatePudding(seehere),GingerCrèmeCaramel(seehere),andalsoforthecustardintheChaiBrûléeTarts(seehere).Althoughalotofpeoplebaketheircheesecakesinsideawaterbathplacedintheoven–therationalebeingthatbecausethetemperatureofthewatercannotriseabove100°C,thecheesecakewillcookevenly–wearenotfans.Fortherecipesinwhichwedousethetechnique,takecarewhenfillingyourtraywithhotwater.Placethetrayintheovenbeforepouringthewaterin,ratherthantryingtoliftandmoveatrayfullofwateracrossthekitchen,whichcanbebothmessyanddangerous.

ButterBURNING›Burntbutter–orbeurrenoisette–istheprocessbywhichbutterisheatedonthestoveforsolongthatitstartstofoam,turnalightbrowncolourandsmellnutty.Smallbrownspecksofsedimentwillformonthesideofthepan,whicharethenremovedwhenthebutterisstrainedthroughafinesieve.Thestrainedbutter–the‘burnt’butter–bringsanuttycaramelnote(aswellasagoldenbrowncolour)toyourbaking.WeuseitinourBrownButterTuiles(seehere),BlackberryFriands(seehere)andCoffeeFinanciers(seehere).TEMPERATUREOF›Thetemperatureofbutterwhenyoustartbakingisalwaysimportant.Sometimesitneedstobefridge-cold(ifyouarerubbingitintoflourtoformacrumb-likeconsistencyforadough,forexample).Sometimesitneedstobeatroomtemperature(ifyouwantittobemalleableenoughtobemixedwithotheringredientsuntilsmooth,orifyouwantabattertodropnicelyandevenlyintoacupcakemould).Sometimesyouwantittobewhatwecall‘softbutnotoily’.Thisiswhereitissofterthanroomtemperaturebutnotsosoftastobesittinginanoilypuddle(asitwouldbeifyou’dmelteditforafewsecondsinthemicrowave,forexample),whichwouldresultinadensecake.Wegetourbuttertothispointbysittingitinabowlclosetothestovetopwhilewearegettingonwithotherbitsandbobsinthekitchen.Cuttingthebutterintoroughly3cmcubesandspreadingthemoutoverthewrapperoraplatewillspeeduptheprocessfurther.Eitherway,keepaneyeonit:ifit’snolongersolidthenyou’vetakenittoofar.

Whenmeltingbutter,wealsocutitintocubes,sothatitmeltsfasterandmoreevenly:youdon’twantittoboilawayandreduce.

Sometimeswesaythatbuttershouldbemeltedandthenreturnedtoroomtemperaturebefore,say,beingaddedtoamixwithlotsofeggsinit.Thisistopreventtheeggsbeing‘cooked’bytheheatofthebutter.

Allthebutterwestartwithisunsalted.Thisthenallowsustocontroltheamountofsaltusedinarecipe.

ChocolateCALLETS/CHIPSVSBLOCK›Intheshopsandbakeryweusechocolatecallets(orchips)inourbaking.Theycomeinarangeofcocoapercentagesandhavethe

greatadvantageofmeltingevenly,whichmakesthechocolatelesstemperamentaltoworkwith.Calletsorchipsareavailableonline,inspecialistchocolateshopsandmoregenerallyinsupermarkets,butfortheeaseofthehomecook,wehavestartedwithblocksofchocolatewhicharethenchoppedbyhand.Howpreciseyouneedtobewhenbreakinguporchoppingthechocolateisindicatedineachrecipe.Precisionwillmattermoreinsomecasesthanothers.Therearesomeinstanceswherecalletsorchipsareneeded:inourChocolateChipPecanCookies(seehere),forexample:ifyoustartedwithawholeblockofchocolateandcutitintounevenchunks,thiswouldleadtoanunevenbake.MELTING›Whenmeltingchocolate,avoidthetemptationtostirittoooftenortoovigorously,asthiswillcauseittoseizeup.Itwillalwaysstiffenupabitifanotherhotliquidisaddedtoit–hotwaterorcoffee,forexample,intheFlourlessChocolateLayerCake(seehere)–butitwillsmoothoutagainwithjustalittlebitofgentlestirring.Iffoldingmeltedchocolateintoanothermixture–whiskedeggyolksandsugar,forexample–yourmeltedchocolateshouldbeslightlycooled(ratherthancompletelycooled,whichwillmakeittoofirm).

Sometimeswemeltchocolatebypouringscaldingmilkorcreamoverchoppedchunksofchocolateandonlystirringitthroughonceit’sbeenlefttosit.Toscaldmilkorcreamyouheatitjustuptothepointbeforeitstartsboiling.Oncethereareoneortwobubblesonthesurface,removeitfromtheheat;ifitactuallycomestoaproperboil,you’vetakenittoofarandthechocolatewillscorchorsplit.TEMPERING›Whenchocolateismeltedandusedasacoatingorspread,itsometimesdevelopswhitestreaks.Theseoccurasaresultofthechocolatemeltingthencooling,andthecocoabutter–thefatnaturallypresentincocoabeans,whichgiveschocolateitsirresistiblemouth-feel–solidifyingintofatcrystalswhichallhavedifferentshapesandmeltingpoints.Thesewhitestreaks–knownas‘fatbloom’–cangivethechocolateaslightlydullappearanceorgrittytexture.Thechocolateisperfectlyedible,butitdoesn’tlookgreat.Ifyouwanttopreventtheformationofwhitestreaks,youneedtotemperthechocolate.Thisistheprocessofcarefullymeltingandcoolingchocolatetoensurethatthecocoabuttercrystallizesproperly.

Thereareseveralwaystotemperchocolate,fromelaboratemixingtechniqueswithfinelycontrolledtemperatures,totemperingmachineswhich

doalltheworkforyou.Thesimplestwayistochoporshavethechocolateintosmall,even-sizedpieces,thenremoveaboutaquarterofthechocolateandsetthesepiecesaside.Melttheremainingthree-quartersofthechocolateinabowlsetoverapanofbarelysimmeringwater,makingsurethebaseofthebowlisnottouchingthesurfaceofthewater.Removethebowlfromthesimmeringwaterand,whenit’sofftheheat,addthereservedpiecesofchocolate.Stirthroughuntilmeltedandcooled.

Youdon’tneedtotemperchocolateeverytimeyouworkwithit.Weonlytemperitwhenthechocolateisgoingtobeusedandseenasacoating:intheCoconutBrittle(seehere)andGrapefruitPeel(seehere).Youcoulddoitforthechocolate-coatedmeringueintheFrozenEspressoParfait(seehere),ifyoulike,butthisagainisoptional,asthewholethingiscoveredinpralinebeforebeingfrozen.

Thismightallseemlikealotofinformationforaprocessyouonlyuseoneortwice,butwehopeit’sinterestinganduseful,nevertheless!CHOCOLATE(WHITE)›Whitechocolatecanbemoretemperamentalthanotherchocolatewhenit’sbeingmelted.Ifit’sheatedtooquickly,itwillseizeup.Topreventthis,eitherstartwithcallets(orchips),orshaveyourblockofchocolateintoflakes,orsimplymakesureyouchopyourblockofchocolateintoeven-sizedpieces.Ifuneven,thepieceswillmeltatdifferenttimesandwillseizeupwhenstirred.Whenmelting,dosooveralowheat,eitherinaheatproofbowloverapanofgentlysimmeringwateroronalowtemperatureinamicrowave.

Citrusfruit(peeling)Whenshavingpeeloffcitrusfruit–lemons,limes,oranges–alwaysavoidthewhitepith.Thisisbitterandcancarryitsbitternessthroughyourbaking(unlessyouareblanchingthewholepeel,asfortheGrapefruitPeel,here).

EggsNUMBEROF›Themoreeggsyouhaveinacakebatter,theclosereyeyouneedtokeeponittowardstheendofbaking:arelativelylargenumberofeggsmeansthatacakecangofrombeingalittlebitliquidinthemiddletobeingcookedinjustafewminutes.Asever,askewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakewillgiveyouagoodindicationastowhat’sgoingoninside.

SIZEANDTEMPERATUREOF›Unlessotherwisestated,weassumethateggsarelargeandatroomtemperaturewhenyoustartbaking.Thisiswhatourbakingtimesarebasedon.Forsomerecipes,though,thetemperatureoftheeggsisnotjustimportant,it’scrucial.IntheHotChocolatePudding(seehere)ortheCoffeePoundCake(seehere),whichcontainalotofeggs,ifyoustartwithfridge-coldeggsthenthemixwon’tjustsplit:itwillleadtoacold,heavybatterthathastoworkhardertoriseintheoven.Ifyoureggsareinthefridgeandyouwanttostartbakingstraightaway,bringthemtoroomtemperaturebyplacingtheminasmallbowlandcoveringwithhottapwater(notboilingwater)for5minutesbeforeusing.

Eggwhitesalsowhiskmoreeffectivelywhentheyarenotfridge-cold,sobringtheseoutofthefridgeanhourorsobeforeyouaregoingtomakeameringue.FREEZINGEGGWHITES›Eggwhitesfreezewell,soalwayssavethosenotusedifarecipecallsforeggyolkonly.

Genoisesponge(making)Foralltheambitiousandinvolvedthingsonecandowhilebaking,there’salmostnothingmoresatisfyingthanmakingtheperfectgenoise:onethat’srichandbuttery,butlightatthesametime.There’sjustsomethingalittlebitmagicaboutit!Behindthemagic,thereisquitealotofmethod–noneofitcomplicated,butallofitimportant.

›Getorganizedbeforeyoustart.Haveeverythingweighedoutandreadyforwhenit’sneeded.Thespongemixtureisdelicateandyoudon’twanttolosethepreciousairbubblesyou’veworkedsohardtoachievebymakingthemwaitaroundwhileyouweighthingsout.

›Startwitheggsatroomtemperature(seehere).Speedisimportantandtheywillwhipquicker(withlighterresults)thanfridge-cold.

›Don’tbetemptedtoskimponthenumberoftimestheflourneedstobesifted.Forthecaketobeaslightandfluffyascanbe,threereallyisthemagicnumber.

›Donotgreaseyourcakerings.Inordertogetanevenrise,youwantthemixturetosticktothesidesasitrises.

›Makesurethebutterisfullymeltedbutnothot.Itneedstobepouredintothecakemixbygentlydribblingitdownthesidesofthebowlandfoldedin

swiftlybutgently.Ifthebutteristoohot,orpouredintooquickly,itwillsinktothebottomandcreateadense,oilytexture.

›Makesureyourovenisatthecorrecttemperaturewhenthecakesarereadytogoin.Wewouldsaythisisthecaseforallrecipes,butsomecakebattersaremorerobustthanothersandcanaffordtowaitaroundforanoventocometotemperatureifneedsbe.Thespongeistoodelicateandlighttositaround:itneedstogointotheovenassoonasitisready,otherwiseitwilldeflate.Closetheovendoorgentlyanddonotbetemptedtoopenitforthefirst10minutes.

›You’llknowwhenthecakeiscookedasitwillbelightlybrowned,theedgeswillhaveshrunkslightlyawayfromthesidesoftherings,andthecentreshouldspringbackwhenpressedlightly.

›Oncebaked,thespongeisfragile,sotakecarewhenslicingit(particularlyifyou’vemadeonelargecakeratherthanseveralmini-ones,whichwillbeeasiertoslice).Whenslicinginhalfhorizontally,weinserttoothpicksaroundthecaketomarkwheretocutit,toensureastraightline.Whencutting,insertyourknife,thenmovethecakearound(ratherthanjiggingyourknifearoundthecake).Whenliftingthetopoff,readytoice,useacakelifterorjumbocookiespatula–oreventhebaseofaspringformtin–tohelp.Itmightcrumbleifyouliftitwithyourhands.

IcebathAnicebathissimplyabowlfilledwithiceandwater.Itisusedtoquicklybringdownthetemperatureofwhateverisplungedintoit(inaseparateandsmallerbowl).Weoftenuseicebathswhenmakingcustardsforicecreamorsugarsyrupsforsorbets.Startingoffwithverycoolcustardorsugarsyruphelpsthingsalonggreatlywhenitisthentransferredtoamachinetobechurned.

MeringuesTherearethreetypesofmeringue:Swiss,FrenchandItalian.They’reallmadeinadifferentwayandproduceslightlydifferentresults.SWISSMERINGUE›Theeggwhitesandsugarareheat-treatedtogetherbeforetheyarewhipped.Thishappenswhenthemeringueisnotgoingtogetanyfurthercooking(whenit’spipedontoacheesecake,forexample).Heat-treatingitinthefirstinstancegivesitthe‘cooking’itneedstobesafetoeat(itmustbeheatedto71°C)andmakesitstableenoughtoholditsshapewhenpipedontoacake.SwissmeringueisdenserthaneitherFrenchorItalianmeringue,withatexturethat’ssmooth,silkyandmarshmallow-like.FRENCHMERINGUE›Thesugarisdrizzledontotheeggwhitesastheyarebeingbeaten,creatingalightandcrispmeringue.Frenchmeringuealwaysneedstobebaked,topreventtheeggwhitesinthemixbreakingdown.ThisisthemeringueweuseforourRolledPavlova(seehere)andWoodlandMeringues(seehere).Thereasonthemeringuegoesintoahotovenandthetemperatureisturneddownstraightawayistogiveitanicecrispexteriorandasoftandmarshmallow-likeinterior.ITALIANMERINGUE›Probablythemoststableofallthemethods.Thisistheresultofaveryhotsugarsyrupbeingpouredovertheeggwhitesastheyarebeaten.Thismethodrequiresabitmoreattentionandpatiencethantheothertwo,asthetemperatureofthesugarsyrupneedstoreach118°Conasugarthermometerbeforeitispouredintotheeggwhites.Inturn,theeggwhitesmustbewhiskedtoagoodvolumewithoutbecominggrainy(over-whisked)beforethesugarsyrupisdribbledin.Timingiseverything,aswesooftensaywhencookingwithsugar.Butwithallyouringredientsat-the-ready,andwithoneeyeonthethermometerandtheotheronthewhippingeggwhites,youwillhaveshiny,

fluffyfabulousmeringues.‘IfeltlikeIgrewametretaller,’Helensays,rememberingthedayshemasteredItalianmeringue.

Moistureinacake(oilvsbutter)Usingoilratherthanbutterincakestendstokeepthemmoistforlonger.Thisisbecauseoilremainsliquidatcoolertemperatures,whereasbuttersolidifiestomakecakesfirmovertime.Thelackofbuttercansometimestranslatetodiminishedflavour,however,sothisneedstobecompensatedforbyturningupthevolumeontheotheringredients.InourPineappleChiffonCake(seehere),forexample,thefreshpineapple,staraniseandorangezestaretheretomakesurethecakedeliversinallareas.

NutsROASTING›Evenifyoustartwithpre-roastednuts,alwaysgiveyourbatchaquickre-roastinawarmovenfor5minutes.Thesuccessofabiscuitorcakeoftenreliesonthenutsbeingfragrant:just5minutesinanovensetto200°C/180°CFan/GasMark6willhelpreleasetheiroils.Forourrecipes,wehaveassumedthatallnutswillbeinneedofroasting.Timingsandtemperaturesaregivenineachrecipe.

Whenarecipecallsfortoastedflakedalmonds,weprefertostartwithuntoastedflakedalmondsandtoastthemourselves,aswehavemorecontroloverhowlongtheyarecookedfor,andafreshtoastingisalwaysgoodtodrawouttheoils.Youcanstartwithready-toastedflakedalmonds,ifyouprefer,however.BLITZING›Alwayswaitfornutstocometoroomtemperaturebeforeyoublitzthem:they’llturntoanoilypasteifblitzedwhenwarm.REMOVINGTHESKIN›Ifroastingnutssoastoremovetheirskins(aswithhazelnuts,forexample),transferthenutstoacleanteatowelafterroasting,foldinthesidesoftheclothandgiveavigorousrubtoreleasethemfromtheskin.TASTING›Fornotesontheimportanceoftastingyournutsbeforeaddingtoyourbake(tomakesuretheyarenotrancid),seehere.

OventemperatureandtraypositioningOventemperatureiskeytosuccessinbaking.Atthesametimeasfollowingourguidelines,youhavetobemindfulofthefactthatallovensareslightlydifferent,soyouneedtouseyourinitiativeifyouthinksomethingneedsafewminutesmoreorlessintheoven.Aswellasacookingtime,visualguidesarealsogivensothatyouknowwhattolookfor.Thebestwaytogetitrightistogettoknowyouroven–you’llsoonknowifyouconsistentlyneedtobegivingthings,say,3minuteslongerthansuggested–andtogettoknowaparticularrecipereallywell;it’sinbeingabletogaugeforyourselfwhethersomethingisreadythatyou’llbecomeareallyconfidentcook.

Unlessotherwisestated,alwayspositionyourcakeortrayinthemiddleofyouroventogetanevenbake(orcreateanevendistancebetweenyourtrays,ifyou’rebakingwithmorethanone).Rotatingyourtrayhalfwaythroughbakingwillalsoensureanevenbake.

Ifabakestartswithaninitiallyhighoventemperaturewhichisthenreducedassoonasitgoesintheoven,thisisoftendonetobringaboutacontrastbetweenabrowncrispcrustandagooey,softinside.ThisisatechniqueweemployinourBlackberryFriands(seehere).

PastryTipsandnotesonthevariouspastriesusedinthebookcanbefoundatthebeginningoftheTartsandpieschapter(seehere).

Pineapplepurée(cookingof)Wealwaysheatthroughourpineapplepuréebeforeaddingittoacakemix.Thisworkstointensifytheflavourofthepineapple(ratherthanjustaddingmorepineapple,whichwouldmakethebattertoorunnyandpreventthecakefromrising)andtodestroytheenzymebromelain,whichcanbreakdowntheglutenintheflour,resultinginadensecake.

ProvingdoughTherateatwhichyourdoughwillprovedependshugelyonthetemperatureofyourkitchen.You’llneedtousethevisualguidesgiveninarecipetogaugewhetheryourdoughneedsmoreorlesstimetorise.ThereasonwekeepthedoughforRoma’sDoughnuts(seehere)inthefridgeovernightafterthefirstproveistomuchdecreasetheamountoftimespentwaitingforthedoughtoproveforasecondtimeonthedayyouwanttofryandeatthem.Inthecaseofthedoughnuts,thebenefitsofprovingthedoughonindividualsquaresofbakingparchmentisabaker’stipwewereveryhappytolearnandwhichwe’reveryhappytoshare(seehere).

Resting(theimportanceof)Don’tbetemptedtomissoutontherestingstagebeforeacakeisbaked,ifit’srecommended.Iftherearelotsofgroundalmondsinamix,forexample(aswiththeFlourlessChocolate‘Teacakes’,here),it’sreallyimportanttoallowthemtofullyabsorbtheliquids:thiswillmakethecakeasmoistascanbe.

Roulade‘training’Inordertoprepareourrouladebeforeit’srolled,weliketo‘train’it.Thisisdonebyrollingitinaclean,dryteatowelafterit’sbeenbakedsothatitrollsseamlessly(andwithoutbreaking)oncethecreamfillingisinplace.It’saneattrick.Onceyou’vecrackedit(ornot,inthecaseofyoursponge!)you’llfeellikearoulade-makingpro.ThisalsoappliestothespongeintheBlackcurrantStripeCake(seehere).

SiftingDRYINGREDIENTS›Thekeytopillow-ylightnessisofteninsiftingtogetherthedryingredients.Notonce,nottwice,butsometimes(inthecaseofthePowderPuffrecipeshere)threetimes!Itmightsoundabitmuch,weknow,butitmakesallthedifference,riddingthemixofanyimpuritiesatthesametimeasgettingallthataerationintothemix.

Wherewehavemorethanonedryingredient–flour,salt,spices,icingsugar,etc–weliketosiftthesealltogetherintothemixingbowl(ratherthanseparatelyorinadvance):thisensuresthateverythingisevenlydistributedthroughoutthebatterordough.CASTERSUGAR›Whenthesugarispartofthedryingredients(asopposedtobeingcreamedwiththebutter,forexample),wealsotendtosiftthatwiththeflour.However,incakeswherethereisahighlevelofliquid–intheTake-homeChocolateCake(seehere)ortheChocolateGuinnessCakes(seehere)–thesugarisaddedearlyon,whiletheliquidisstillwarm,sothatitmeltsintothecakebatterandproducesamoreeventexture.Sinceit’saddedatthesametimeasthecocoapowder,we’vesiftedthematthesametimeasitmakesiteasiertoincorporateintotheliquid.Thisalsopreventsthecocoapowderfromclumping,whichitcandowhendumpedintotheliquidbyitself.ICINGSUGAR›Withicingsugar,whetherornotwesiftitdependsonwhatit’susedfor.Ifitisgoingintoameringue,forexample,itisalwayssifted.Ifmixingicingsugarwithwateroranotherliquid,thereisnoneedtosiftit.Ifcreamingwithbutter,whetherornotwesiftdependsonhowoldtheicingsugaris:theolderitisthelumpieritcanbecome,frommoistureintheair.IcingsugarintheUKusuallycontainscornflourtoreducethelumpiness,butinplaceswhere‘pure’icingsugarissold,it’softenlumpyandmustbesiftedbeforeusing.

Thismightseemlikealotofinformationonthenatureofsifting,butitdoesmakeasmootherbatter:asiftingoodtimesavesnine,andallthat.

StorageThewayinwhichthingsarestoredwillreallyaffecthowlongtheylast.Notesarealwaysgivenastowhetherthingsshouldbekeptinanairtightcontainerorwrappedlooselyinfoil.Again,whethertheyarekeptatroomtemperature,inthefridgeorinthefreezerwillalsomakeadifferencetowhethersomethingdriesout,goessoggyorstartsto‘weep’.Dotrytofollowtheguidelinesgiven:itwillmakesuchadifference.

SugarCARAMELIZING›Therearetwowaystocaramelizesugar:a‘dry’methodanda‘wet’method.Inthe‘dry’methodthesugariscooked,withoutwater,inalargeshallowfryingpanorskillet.Inthe‘wet’method,waterisaddedtothesugartobeginthecaramelizingprocessandthecarameliscookedinasaucepan.‘Wet’caramelstartsoffasathicksugarsyrup,whichbeginstocaramelizeasthewaterevaporates.Ifthereisnowater,thesugarbeginstocaramelizefaster.

The‘dry’methodproducesadarker,morecomplex-flavouredcaramelinashortertime.It’sthemethodweusewhenwewantasmallamountofcaramel,aswiththecaramelizedpineappleonourPassionfruitCheesecake(seehere),forexample.Youneedtobevigilantwhenmakingitandkeepaverycloseeyeonthepan:don’tbetemptedtomoveawayuntilthecaramelisalldone.The‘wet’methodisusefulwhenyouneedtomakealargebatchofcaramelforasauce,perhaps,orforthecoffeepralineintheFrozenEspressoParfait(seehere).CARAMEL(THEDIFFERENTSTAGESOFCOOKEDSUGAR)›Whenmakingcaramel,thecookedsugarwillgothroughstages,from‘threadstage’to‘hardcrack’.Thestagesarereachedatdifferenttemperaturesandeachresultsinacaramelwithaverydifferentconsistencyandpurpose.

THREADSTAGE›Thefirststageofcaramel,whenthesugarandwaterhavemeltedtogetherandtheconsistencyisthatofsugarsyrup.Thisstageisreachedwhenthetemperatureis110–112°C.

SOFTBALL›Thetexturehereisthatofasoft,stickyball,likebuttercream,fudgeorfondant.Thisisreachedwhenthetemperatureis113–116°C.

FIRMBALL›Thisiswhenthecaramelisfirmbutpliable.Itisthestageyouwanttoreachwhenmakingcertaincaramelsortoffees.Thetemperatureforthisstage

is118–120°C.HARDBALL›Theconsistencyhereisthatofaharderball,onethatholdsits

shape.It’sthestagereachedbycaramels,toffeesandnougatswithaslightlyfirmertexture.Thetemperaturehereshouldbe121–130°C.

SOFTCRACK›Thisiswhenthecaramelhasdevelopedfirmyetpliablestrands:itiswhatyouwantforthemakingofbutterscotchorfirmnougat.Thetemperatureshouldbe132–143°C.

HARDCRACK›Thisisthefirmeststageofthecaramel,almostbrittle-like,wherethestiffthreadsbreakeasily.Itisthestageyouwanttoreachwhenmakinghardcandyandspunsugar.Thetemperatureshouldbe149–154°C.

Cookingwithsugarrequiresasugarthermometer,totakeanyguessworkoutoftheequation.Italsorequiresthebakertobeincontroloftimings,asthesugarsyrupoftenneedstobeatacertainstageattheexactsametimeassomethingelseneedstobehappening.

Temperature(ofingredients)Wehavetalkedabouttheimportanceofeggsandbutterbeingatthecorrecttemperaturewhenbaking(seehereandhere).Inaddition,thetemperatureofotherdairyingredientsneedstobenoted.IntheWhiteChocolateCheesecake(seehere),forexample,boththecreamcheeseandsouredcreamneedtobefridge-cold.Thisallowsthemixtoremaincoolenoughforthechocolatenottomeltwhenadded.IntheCoffeePoundCake(seehere),themilkandtheeggsneedtobeatroomtemperature,tominimizetheriskofthemixsplitting.

TinsGREASING›Weliketogreaseourbakingtraysandtinswith(barely)meltedbutter.Wepreferthistocookingsprays(vegetableoils),whichcanaffectthetasteofthecake.Ifthemouldsofatrayarelinedwithpaperliners–whenmakingcupcakes,forexample–thenwearehappytousethisspray,asthebatterwillnotcomeintodirectcontactwithit.Inthecaseofmuffintins(orothertinsinwhichthecakemixtureisgoingtoriseupandoverthetoprimofthemould),it’salwaysusefultosprayorgreasethesurfaceofthetray,aswellasthemoulds,topreventthecookedcakefromstickingtothetinandcrumblingwhenyoutrytoremoveit.

Themorenooksandcranniesatinhas,themorecareyouneedtotakewhengreasingit,topreventthecookedcakegettingstucktotheinsideofthetin.Bundttins,forexample,requirealotofgreasing.

Ifyouaregreasingwithanoilratherthanbutter,alwaysusealightsunfloweroilratherthanoliveoil,whichwillbetooheavyandthick.LINING›Tolineourtraysandtins,weusenon-stickbakingparchment.Insomecases(intheverydelicateCats’Tongues,here)werecommendusinganon-sticksiliconebakingmatinsteadofparchment,ifyouhaveone.CHOOSING›Formoreonthetinsweuse,alongwithwhatcanbeusedasanalternative,seehere.Otheroptionsandtipsaregiventhroughoutthebook.MEASURING›Tofindtheaccuratewidthandlengthofatin,alwaysmeasurefrominsideedgetoinsideedge,sothemeasurementdoesnotincludethethicknessofthetin.Flutedtinsaremeasuredfromtheinsideedgeofoneoutercurvetotheinsideedgeofthecurvedirectlyacrossfromit.Tomeasurearoundcaketin,measureacrossthetopdiameterofthetin,fromedgetoedge.Ifthesidesaresloping,thenalsomeasurethebaseofthetin.Tomeasurethetin’sdepth,placearuleronthekitchencounterandmeasurestraightupfromthebottomofthepan.Ifthepanedgeisslanted,donotslanttheruler,measurestraightupwards.

Thisallsoundsveryprescriptiveandstrict,weknow:wetakeallthesedetailsveryseriously.Atthesametime,though,don’tworryifyourtinortrayhasdimensionswhichareslightlydifferenttoours.Aswellasmakingrecommendationsforalternativeshapesandsizesfortins,wherewecan,visualguidesaregivensoyou’llknowwhenyourcakeisready.Thisshouldgiveyouthe

confidencetouseaslightlydifferentsizedorshapedtin,ifyouneedto,andthenmakeadjustmentstothebakingtimeaccordingly.

WaterganacheWaterganachesoundslikeacontradictioninterms–themixingofchocolateandwaterdoesn’tfeelasthoughitshouldwork–butinfactitemulsifiesintothesmoothestofallganaches.Usingwaterinsteadofcreammeansthatnothingdistractsfromthepuretasteofthechocolate.It’salsomuchmorestableandeasytoworkwiththancream-basedganaches,which(thoughtheytastegreat)tendtolosetheirshineafteranhourortwoandturnabitdullandgrainy.Waterganachekeepsinthefridgefordaysandcanbereheatedeitherinabain-marieorinasmallsaucepanoveralowheat;youwillneedtostirconstantlyandmaybeaddatouchmorewater.Forinstructionsonhowtomaketheperfectwaterganache,seetheFlourlessChocolate‘Teacakes’.

INGREDIENTS:A(SELECTIVE)GLOSSARY

Thisisnotacomprehensivelistofingredientsusedthroughoutthebook.It’salistoftheingredientswethinkareinneedofabitofexplanation:whattheyare,whywelikethemand,insomecases,whattouseasanalternative.

AlmondpasteNottobeconfusedwithmarzipan.Whilemarzipancancontainaslittleas10%almonds,almondpasteismadeupof50%almonds.Thepastecontainsmuchlesssugar,asaresult,andhasacoarsertexture.Marzipanisusefulforrollingouttodrapeovercakes(thankstotheliquidglucose),butweusealmondpasteinourbakingforapurertasteofalmonds.It’savailableinmostlargesupermarketsandonline.Alternatively,checkoutthealmondpercentageinmarzipan:thehigherthebetter.BuytheOdensebrandofmarzipanifyoucan.

AmarettibiscuitsShop-boughtAmarettibiscuitsareeithersoftandpale(oftenindividuallywrapped,inatinyou’llwanttokeep)orbrownandcrunchy.Weusethemtoprovideadistinctivecrunch–nottoosweet,withabitternessfromtheapricotkernelsinthebiscuits–inthebaseofourRhubarbGalette(seehere).Wealsomakeourown:theAmarettihere.There’smoregoingoninthese,flavourandtexture-wise,thaninthesimpleshop-boughtversion,sotheseshouldnotbeusedforthebaseofthegalette.

AniseedWithaflavoursomewherebetweenfennelandliquorice,aniseedisasweetandcomplexspice.Itismostcommonlyassociatedwithouzo,rakiortheFrenchpastis,butitalsoworksverywellwhengroundandaddedtoallsortsofcookiesandcakes.WeuseitinourParsnipandPecanCake(seehere)andAlmondNougat(seehere).Alternatively,useanequalquantityoffinelygroundfennelseedsinstead.

ApricotsAlthoughwetendtomakeuseoffresh,seasonalfruit,apricotshavearelativelyshortseason,soweoftenusetinnedinstead.Theirqualityisgood–andfarbetterthanunripeorout-of-seasonfreshapricots–sodon’tfeelasthoughyou’reskimpingonqualityifyouarestartingwithtinned.Ifyouarebakingwithfreshapricotsandthey’renotaslargeandjuicyasyou’dwantthemtobe(whenroastingthemfortheApricotCheesecakehere,forexample),youmightneedtosprinklethemwithalittlemorewaterthanrecommended,tocreatesomeaddedmoisture.

BananasWhenchoosingbananasforbaking,youwantthemtoberipebutnottooripe.Unripe,they’llhaveanastringencywhichwillcarryrightthroughyourcakeorcookie;tooripe–ifthey’vebeentakentothepointofblackening–andthepHofthebananaschangesfromacidictoalkaline,whichmakesitdifficultfortheraisingagenttodoitswork.Theresultingcake,thoughrichinflavour,willberatherheavyanddense.Theperfectbananaforbakingisspeckledormottled:thisindicatesthatitissweetandfullofflavour.

Cardamom(ground)Groundcardamomisnotalwayseasytogetholdof(comparedtothewholegreenpods,whicharewidelyavailable),butthereareacoupleofwaystogrindyourown.Ifyouwanttomake1½teaspoonsgroundcardamomfortheCoffeePoundCakehere,you’llneedtostartwithabout40pods;theAlmondButterCakehereneeds¾teaspoon,soyou’llneedtostartwithabout20pods.Youcaneithercrushthewholepodswiththeflatsideofalargeknifetoreleasetheseeds,thengrindtheseedsinaspicegrinderorpestleandmortar:thiswillgiveyouthemostdistinctiveandintensecardamomtaste.Alternatively,grindthewholecardamompodinaspicegrinderandthenpassthemixthroughafinesieve.Thesecondoptionisquickerandeasierthanthefirst,butthetasteofthespicewillnotbenearlyasintense,soyoumightwanttoaddatinybitmorethantherecipesuggests.

ChocolateAlldarkchocolateusedinthebookshouldbecookingchocolatewith70%cocoasolids,unlessotherwisestated.Intermsofaspecificbrand,therangeofchocolateonofferisabsolutelyhuge.Solongasyoustickwiththerecommendedcocoapercentageforarecipe,andalwaysbuycookingchocolate,youcangowithyourpreferredbrand.CHOCOLATECALLETS›Intheshopsandbakeryweusechocolatecallets(chips)inourcooking:theycomeinarangeofcocoapercentagesandhavethegreatadvantage(overstartingwithawholeblockofchocolateandchoppingitbyhand)ofmeltingthroughevenly.Calletsarewidelyavailable–they’re

sometimessoldas‘chef’schocolatedrops’–butforthemostpartwe’vespecifiedhand-choppingablockofchocolate,asbarsofcookingchocolatearestillthemostreadilyavailable.TheexceptiontotheruleiswiththeChocolateChipCookies(seehere),whereyoureallyneedtostartwithchocolatechipsorcallets:usingchocolatewithinconsistentsizingwillcreateanunevenbakeandchangetheconsistencyofthecookie.GIANDUJA›InrecipeswhichcallforGianduja,aparticularlywonderfulchocolatewithabout30%hazelnutpaste,wehaveprovidedanalternativeforthehomecookwhocangetholdofNutella–oranotherchocolatehazelnutspread–morereadily.DokeepaneyeoutforGianduja,though:it’sreallyveryspecial.

Formorenotesonthehandlingofchocolate–meltingandtemperingit,forexample–seehere.

Cocoapowder(Dutch-processed)AllthecocoapowderusedinourrecipesisDutch-processed(asopposedtonatural).ThedifferencebetweenDutch-processed(alsoknownas‘alkalized’,‘Europeanstyle’or‘Dutched’powder)andnaturalcocoapowderisthattheformeristreatedwithanalkaline.Thisreducestheacidityofthecocoa,creatingasmoother,milderflavourthaninthemoreacidicnaturalversion.SinceDutch-processedcocoaisn’tacidic,itdoesn’treactwithalkalineleaveners(likebicarbonateofsoda)toproducecarbondioxide.ThisiswhyrecipesthatcontainDutch-processedcocoapowderareusuallyleavenedbybakingpowder,whichhasaneutralpH.ThecolouroftheDutch-processedcocoaisalsodarkerthanthenatural.

CoconutflakesIntheshopsweliketouseBaker’sAngelcoconutflakes,whicharesweet,wetanddelicious.TheyarenoteasytogetholdofintheUK,though,sowehaveusedregularcoconutflakesinstead.Thesearesoldaseither‘unsweetened’,‘raw’or‘plain’coconutflakes.Desiccatedcoconut–thefinelyshreddedversionoftheunsweetenedflakes–canalsobeusedasanalternative.

CoffeeWe’vetriedtokeepthingssimplebymainlyusinginstantcoffeegranulesinourrecipes–wetendtouseNescafé.Insomecases,though,groundcoffeeiscalledfor,eitherforitsintensityintheFrozenEspressoParfait(seehere),orforthewonderfullyspeckledlookitbringstocakeslikeourCoffeeFinanciers(seehere).

CreamcheeseThetextureofcreamcheesecanvaryfrombrandtobrand(andevenfromcountrytocountry,withinthesamebrand),withonebatchbeingmuchrunnierthanthenext.IntheUK,forexample,PhiladelphiacreamcheeseissofterandmorewaterythanthesamebrandversionintheUSA,whereit’ssoldinblocksandisveryfirm.Therunnierthecheese,thelesstimeitwilltaketobecomesmoothwhenwhisked,andthequickerthemixwillcometogetherforadough,forexample.WatchoutforitwhilemakingtheicingfortheBeetrootCake(seehere)–ifyouwhiskittoomuchitwillbecometoorunny.TheadditionofcreamcheesetothepastryinourRhubarbGalette(seehere)iswhatmakesitsotenderandflaky.Formoreoncreamcheesepastry.

DatesyrupDatesyrupisthesamethingasdatemolasses(butnotthesameasblackstrapmolasses).Usingdatesyrupinacakeisagreatwayofinjectinghugeamountsofrichsweetnessandmoistureintothemix.Goldensyrupcanbeusedasanalternative,ifnecessary.

EggsSIZE›Unlessotherwisestated,eggsusedinallrecipesarelarge.Wherethenetweightofeggsisimportant,itwillbegivenintherecipeasaguide,aslargeeggscanvaryinsize.Wehavesometimescalledforsmallormediumeggs(intheGrappaFruitCake,forexample)becausethenetweightoftwoisperfect.TEMPERATURE›Unlessotherwisestated,westartourbakingwitheggsatroomtemperature.Thismattersmoreforsomerecipesthanothers.Formoreonthetemperatureofeggswhenbaking,seehere.WHITES›Severalofourrecipescallforeggwhitesonly.Asageneralrule,1largeeggwillprovidearound40geggwhite;eggsdovaryinsize,however,soalwaysweighouttheeggwhiteswherespecified:it’stheweightingramswhichisimportant.Ifyouarenotstartingwithasurplusofsavedeggwhites,youcanbuytetrapakcontainersofeggwhitesfrommostlargesupermarkets.Wefindthemreallyuseful,asforallourgoodintentionstousetheyolksorwhitesleftover,weknowthereisonlysomuchmayonnaiseorcustardyouneedinyourlife.

FlourRICEFLOUR›Weusegrainyriceflourinbaking(intheOrangeShortbread,here,forexample),nottobeconfusedwiththefinelymilledAsianvariety,whichyou’dusetomakedumplingwrappers.Bob’sRedMillisourchosenbrand.ITALIAN‘00’FLOUR›Theflourusedinourshortbreadisthe‘00’wheatflour(ratherthanthe‘00’semolinaflouryou’duseforpasta).TAPIOCAFLOUR›Weusetapiocaflour,availablefromAsiangrocers,totosswiththefruitinourRhubarbCrumbleCake(seehere).Ithasthecapacitytothickenwithoutleavingaflourytaste.Thetapiocaflouralsolooksbetter–it’snotopaqueinthewaythatcornflouris–buttheyfunctioninthesameway.However,cornflourcanbeusedasanalternative,ifnecessary.BUCKWHEATFLOUR›Thisflourbringsitsdistinctivenuttyandslightlysourtastetoabake:thetasteisveryparticularandnotonethatcanbesubstituted.WeaddalittletoourPersianLoveCakes(seehere).SELF-RAISINGFLOUR›Notasreadilyavailableinsomecountriesasinothers.Ifyouneedtomakeyourown,sifttogetherplainflourwithbakingpowder.Asaguide,use2teaspoonsofbakingpowdertoevery150gplainflour.

GelatineWeprefertousegelatineleaves(ratherthanpowder)astheyareodourless,flavourlessanddissolvequicklywithoutresidue.Theycomeinthreedifferentstrengths:bronze,silverandplatinum.Asaguide,fourleavesofplatinumgelatineistheequivalentof1tablespoonofpowderedgelatine.

(Stem)gingerIfyoucan’tgetstemginger,usethesameamountoffinelychoppedcrystallizedginger,steepedinabout250mlboilingwaterfor15minutes,thendrained.Thegingerflavourwon’tbeasintense,however,soyoumightwanttocompensatebyaddingateaspoonoffreshlygratedgingeratthesametime.

GlacéfruitAlsocalledcandiedorcrystallizedfruit,don’tbetemptedtoskimponqualitywhenbuyingglacéfruit.Thetop-qualityvarietiesareusuallyFrench,butyoucanalsogetareallygoodselectiononline,whichiswherewetendtogo.Youcanalwaysvarytheglacéfruityouuse,accordingtoyourownpreference(unlessarecipestatesotherwise).Ifyoucan’tfindmixedpeel,thencandiedcitronororangepeel(oracombinationofboth)isagoodalternative.

LemonLEMONOIL›Adroportwooflemonoil(orpurelemonextract,asit’salsoknown)isagreatwayofinjectinganintensecitrushitintoasimplebiscuitortart.Itmayseemextravaganttobuyasmallbottlewhenonlyadroportwoisaskedforinarecipe,butitkeepswell(storedinthefridge)andreallydoesmakeadifferencetotheCats’Tongues(seehere).Adroportwoisalsogreataddedtowhippedcream,whichisthenservedwithfreshorroastedfruit.WeuseBoyajianpurelemonoilwhichistop-of-the-range,butthereareseveralotheroptionstochoosefrom:SteenbergsandNielsen-Masseybothdogood-qualitylemonextracts.Eitherway,donotconfusethiswithlemon-infusedoliveoil,whichiscommonlysoldforuseinsavourycooking.ZEST›Usingfinelygratedlemonzestisanotherwaytobringthecitrushitthatwelove.Whengratingyourzest(usingeitheramicroplaneorthesmallerholesofanall-purposegrater),takecaretoavoidthewhitepith:thishasastrongbitternessthatwillcarrythrougheverythingit’saddedto.Asaroughguide,1regularlemonwillgiveyou1teaspoonoffinelygratedlemonzest.

LiquidglucoseAlsoknownasglucosesyrup,liquidglucoseisathick,clearsyrupusuallymadefrommaizebutcanalsocomefromwheat,barleyorpotatoes.It’sausefulwayofcontrollingtheformationofsugarcrystalsinthemakingofconfectionerysuchastheRaspberryLollipops(seehere)orAlmondNougat(seehere).Glucosesyruporcornsyrupcanbeusedasalternativestoliquidglucose.

MahlebMahlebisaspicemadefromthegroundseedkerneloftheStLuciecherry.It’snotwidelyusedoutsideofGreece,TurkeyandtheMiddleEast,sodon’tworryifyoucan’tgetholdofany:afewdropsofalmondextractworkwellinstead.

MarzipanSeeAlmondPastefortheimportantdifferencebetweenthetwo.Ifyoudohavetousemarzipan(insteadofalmondpaste),youcanaddadroportwoofalmondessencetothemixtorampuptheflavour.Marzipanismuchsweeterthanalmondpaste,soyoumightwanttoreducetheamountofsugararecipecallsforaccordingly.

MixedspiceAlsoknownasquatreépices,mixedspiceisasweetblendofcinnamon,nutmeg,mace,allspice,clovesandcoriander.It’ssimilartotheAmericanpumpkinpiespice,butnottobeconfusedwithallspice,thedarkberryfromthepimentotree.

NutsAlwaystasteyournutsbeforebakingwiththem:thequalitycanvaryhugely,fromcreamyandnuttyononehand,todryandrancidontheother.ALMONDS(SLIVERED)›The‘littlesticks’ofsliveredalmondsthatwefoldthroughourCoconutBrittle(seehere)provideawonderfulcrunch,butdon’tworryifyoucan’tgetholdofthem.Justroastsomewholeblanchedalmondsfor10minutesinanovensetto180°C/160°CFan/GasMark4,thenroughlychopthem–thesewillbefineasanalternative.HAZELNUTS›Hazelnutsareveryidiosyncraticinbaking:theycauseacaketodryoutreallyquickly.Asaresult,hazelnutcakesarealwaysbesteatenonthedayofbaking.PEANUTS(RAW)›Rawpeanuts–unroasted,skinlessandunsalted–arenotalwayseasytofind.Roasted(butstillskinlessandunsalted)areofteneasiertogetholdof,sousetheseinstead,ifnecessary.PISTACHIOS›WeliketogarnishourcakeswithsliveredbrightgreenIranianpistachios:it’swhatweuseintheshops,astheirlengthandcolourlookgreat.Ifyouareusingthese,besurenottotoastthem,asthey’lllosetheircolour.Ifusingregularpistachios,however,thesewillneedabitoftoastingtoreallydrawouttheirtaste.WALNUTS(QUALITYOF)›Keepacloseeyeonwalnuts,inparticular,andalwaystastethembeforeaddingthemtoyourcake:theywon’timprovewithbaking,soiftheytasterancidattheoutset,theyarenotworthusing.

OatsWhenmakingthe‘Anzac’Biscuits(seehere),don’tstartwiththesmallquick-cookoatscommontosomebreakfastcereals:they’llturntomushassoonastheycomeintocontactwithliquid.Youwantrolledoats(ratherthansteel-cut),sostartwitheitherthe‘jumbo’version(whichwilljustneedalittlepulseinthefoodprocessortobreakthemup)or‘regular’rolledoats,whichcansimplybeaddedastheyare–oruseacombinationofthetwo.

OrangeBLOSSOMWATER›ThisisakeyingredientinvariousArabandMediterraneancuisines,usedinparticulartoflavourcakeslikebaklava,aswellasothersweets.Sugarsyrupmadewithorangeblossomwatercanbeusedtosoakintocakes,flavourfruitsaladsandfoldintocreamsasadessert.Wealsouseitinasavourycontext,whereitsaromagivesawonderfulexotichue.Somevarietiesaremoreconcentratedthanothers,sohavealittletrybeforeaddingit:youmayneedtoadjustthequantitiesaccordingly.OIL›Withhighlyscentedingredientslikeorangeoil(orlemonoil,almondextract,rosewater,etc),alwaysgetthebestqualityyoucan:there’ssuchadifferencefrombrandtobrandthatitcanreallyaffecttheendresult.Thebetterthequality,themoreexpensiveitwilloftenbe,butyouonlyreallyneedadroportwoinacake,soalittlebottlewillgoaverylongway.Ifyoucan’tgetholdofareallygood-qualityoil,somefinelygratedzestisoftenabetteralternativethanreachingforacheaperbrand.

PandanleafOftenreferredtoasthe‘vanillaoftheEast’,pandanleavesareusedalloverSouthEastAsiatoflavour(andcolour)manydishes,butpredominantlycakesandsweets.Theleaveslooklikelongbladesofgrassandareextremelyfibrous(andthusinedible),soareusedinsteadtoinfusefoods.Tobringouttheflavourofpandan,thebladesarebruisedwiththebackofaknife,thentiedintoaknotanddroppedintothefoodtobeinfused.Theyarealsooftenblendedwithwaterorcoconutmilk,thenstrainedthroughafine-meshedsieve,toextractthecolourandflavourforcakesandpuddings.Ifyoucannotfindpandanleaves(usuallysoldinthefruitandvegorfreezersectionsofAsiangrocers),useaquarterofavanillapodinstead,splitinhalflengthwaystoreleasetheseeds.

PassionfruitpulpWegetourstrainedpassionfruitpulpfromaFrenchcompanycalledLesvergersBoiron.It’ssuperflavourfulandtangyandcomesfrozen,sowecanjustcutoffwhatweneedandkeeptheremainderinthefreezerforfutureuse.Seekitout,ifyoucan–it’sreadilyavailableonline.Orderingproductsonlinealwaysfeelslikeabitofahassle(untilyougetintothehabitofit),butyoucanreassureyourselfthatthealternativeisextractingthejuicefromaboutadozenfreshpassionfruitbyhand!

Ricepaper(edible)EdiblericepaperisausefulwaytolinesomethingstickyliketheAlmondNougat(seehere),tomakeiteasytohandleandstore.Andasit’scompletelyedible,there’snoneedtopeelitoffbeforeeating.Youcanbuyitinsheets,likeA4paper,fromspecialitycakeshopsoronline.Asanalternative,youcouldusewaferpapermadefrompotatostarch,whichservesthesamepurpose,orjustlinethetinwithbakingparchmentdustedwithicingsugar;thelatterwon’tbeedible,obviously,soyou’llhavetopeelitoffbeforeeating.

Rosewater

Thedifferencebetweenpurerosewaterandroseessenceishuge.Theingredientsinrosewaterareliterallyroseoilandwater.Roseessence,ontheotherhand,containsethanolaswellasroseoil.Undiluted,roseessenceisthereforefarstrongerthanrosewaterandservesacompletelydifferentpurpose;it’sgenerallyaddedbythedropratherthanbytheteaspoonortablespoon.Adding2tablespoonsofrosewatertoacakesuchasourPistachioSemolinaCake(seehere)mayseembrazen,butit’swhatmakesthecakebothdistinctanddelicious.ThesameistrueinourFlourlessChocolateCake(seehere).Adding2tablespoonsofroseessencetothesamecakes,ontheotherhand,wouldmakethembasicallyinedible.Confusingly,roseessenceissometimescalledrosewater,sojusthavealookattheingredientstodoublecheck.WeusetheLebaneseCortasbrand,whichwerecommend:it’snotnecessarilytheabsolutebest,butit’soneofthegood-qualitybrandsmostreadilyavailable.

SaltWeusetwotypesofsaltinthebook:tablesaltandflakyseasalt.Tablesaltiswhatweusemostforbaking,asitdispersesmoreevenlythroughabatterordough.Flakyseasaltisoftenusedasagarnish,thereforitsgentlerflavourandmoreprominenttexture.Incertainrecipes–ourChocolateS’mores(seehere)andourGaribaldis(seehere)–weusebothtypesofsalt.

Staranise(ground)Groundstaraniseisnotalwaysaseasytofindaswholestaranise.Togrindyourown,useaspicegrinderorpestleandmortartoblitzwholestaranise,thenpassthroughafinesieve.

SugarWeusevarioustypesofsugarthroughoutthebook:icingsugar,castersugar,demerarasugar,lightbrownsoftsugar,darkbrownsoftsugar,lightbrownmuscovadosugaranddarkbrownmuscovadosugar.There’snogettingaroundthefactthatbakingrequiresafairbitofsugar!ICINGSUGAR›‘Pure’icingsugarisnotthateasytofindintheUK,sowehaveusedregularicingsugarinourrecipes(whichhasabout3%maizestarchinit,makingitstillsuitableforthosewithglutenintolerances).Insomerecipes–theicingforthePineappleChiffonCake(seehere),forexample–wehavementionedpureicingsugarasoptionone,ifyoucangetholdofit,asitdoesn’thavetheslightlyflourytastefromthecornflourastheregularone.Don’tworryifyoucan’tfindthepureversion–regularicingsugarwillbefine.

TreacleandmolassesForsomerecipes–theSoftGingerbreadTiles(seehere),forexample–youcanuseeitherblacktreacleorblackstrapmolassesandyouwon’tbeabletotellthedifference.Whilethetwonamesareoftenusedinterchangeably,thereisadifference,inthatmolassesareapureby-productofrefiningsugarcaneintosugarcrystals,whiletreacleisablendofthesemolasseswiththerefinerysyrup.Treacle(whichisoftenpaler,sweeterandmoremellowthanmolasses)rangesincolourfromlightgoldtoalmostblack,dependingontheratiooftheblend.

VanillaEXTRACT›Aswithallextractsandoils,usethebestqualityyoucanfind:itmakesahugedifference.WeusedtheNielsen-Masseybrandfortherecipesinthisbook.PODS›Ratherthandiscardingvanillapodsoncetheirseedshavebeenscrapedandthey’vedonetheirworkinarecipe,alwaysrinseanddrythem,thensticktheminacontainerofcastersugar.Itmakesalovelyalternativetoregularsugarinyourcappuccino,andcanbeaddedtoallsortsofpuddingsorsmoothies.

Yoghurt(Greek)Theriseoffat-freeor2%fatGreekyoghurthasbeensogreatthatitcansometimesbehardtofindthefull-fatversion:shelfspaceispreciousinshops,weknow,butitseemssuchashame!Youcanusereduced-fatyoghurtifyoulike–eveninrecipesliketheYoghurtPannaCotta(seehere),whichneedstoset–butyouwon’tgetthewonderfulrichnessthatadessertsuchasthisreallydeserves.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Ourbookhasbeenthreeyearsinthemakingandinvolvedlotsofverytalentedpeople,towhomweareextremelygrateful.

Twoyearsoutofthethreewe’vebeenhavingweeklytastingsessionsinwhichwewouldtasteuptoadozensweetsinoneafternoon.InchargeofthosemarathonswasoneSarahJoseph,agreatcook,colleagueandfriend,whohasdedicatedlytestedalltherecipesinourtestkitchen,manyofthemseveraltimes.Sarahkeptherjollyspiritinthefaceofmanyacakeadversity.Forthat,andforallherinsights,clevercontributionsandveryhardwork,weareutterlygrateful.

TaraWigleyhadtheimpossibletaskofputtingallthiscomplexityinorderandturningitintoanactualbook.Bakingisalreadyhighlytechnicalandthefactthatbothauthorsarefamouslyfastidiousdidn’tmakeitanysimpler.Asshealwaysdoes,Tarameticulouslycollectedrecipesandinformation,constantlyofferedthoughtfulsuggestionsand,generally,kepttheballrollingevenwhenitwasveeringseriouslyoffcourse.Herobservations,herabilitytoholdtheprojecttogetherandherbrilliantwaywithwordswereallpricelessassets.

WearealsototallygratefultoEsmeHowarthandClaudineBoulstridge,bothofwhomweredeeplyinvolvedintherecipetestingintheUK.Ontheothersideofthepond,KimLaidlawhappilyconfirmedourinklingthatwe’vegotsomethinggoodgoing,alsobyAmericanstandards.

FortheirpartinmakingthisbookasstrikingasitisdeliciousandasradiantasanOttolenghimeringue,wewouldliketothankCazHildebrandandCamilleBlais(incredibleTeamHere),andTaylorPedenandJenMunkvold(awesomeTeamP+M).AbigthankyouisalsoduetoLucyAttwaterandtoLindyWiffenofCeramicaBlue.

Forsupportingus,trustingusandallowingustoplaywithourfood,weareutterlygratefultoouragents,publishers,editorsandpublicists:FelicityRubinsteinandKimWitherspoon;RebeccaSmart,JakeLingwood,AaronWehnerandHannahRahill;LizzyGray,LisaDyer,LouiseMcKeever,HelenEversonand

KaitlinKetchum;MarkHutchinson,SarahBennie,DianaRiley,GemmaBellandSandiMendelson.

Wewouldalsoliketoacknowledgeafewcolleaguesandcollaboratorstowhomwearealwaysgrateful:JonathanLovekin,SanjanaLovekin,BobGranleese,MelissaDenes,SarahLavelleandFionaMacIntyre.

ThroughoutthebookwerefertoourcolleaguesandfriendsatOttolenghi.Withoutthem,thisworkwouldneverhavecometopass.

Firstly,weshouldmentionNoamBar,CorneliaStaeubliandSamiTamimi.Allthreeofthem,intheirownparticularways,havecontributedtoshapingthisbookandtheenvironmentinwhichithasbeencreated.Noam,CorneliaandSamiarefamilytous,aconstantsourceofstimulation,supportandcriticalthinking.

Equallyimportantaretheheadsofthepastrysectionwhoworkedwithusovertheyears.PaulinaBembel,whoiscurrentlyincharge,hasmadetheOttolenghipastrycounterherown.Hersmartideas,herpracticality,herstrikingdisplaysandthewaysherunsherteamareexemplary.Herdeputy,VerenaLochmuller,isequallybrilliantandaprivilegetohavearoundus.Otherwonderful‘heads’thathavebeenwithusovertheyearsandtowhomweareutterlygratefulareSavarnaPaterson,SaritPacker,CarolBrough,JimWebb,andKhalidAssyb.

AtthehelmofourbakeryisAaronKossoffwho,alongsideIrekKrok,runsthelittleenginethatsuppliesourshopsandrestaurantswithbreads,morningpastries,baggedcookiesandbiscuits,jams,chutneysandmuchmuchmore.AaronandIrek’scleverinnovations,theirwillingapproachandtheirprofessionalismhavesuccessfullyseenusthroughsomeverybusyChristmases.We’dalsoliketothankFaiscalBarakat,CharissaFraserandMariuszUszakiewicz,allofwhomhavehaveheldthisever-challengingpositioninthepast.

Otherpastrychefsandbakers,presentandpast,thatwewouldliketomentionherewithmuchgratitudeareJensKlotz,DanielFrazer,DanielKarlsson,PrzemekLopuszynski,BrookeGladden,JuliaFrischknecht,SolvitaValaine,

CélineLecoeur,FranceskaVenzon,DanMurray,RobWainwright,VitaShkilyova,KristinaKazlauskaite,EmilyParker,SimonettaMinarelli,GiuliaBassan,MirkaStrzep,NelsonFartouce,DanielaSilva,CarleyScheidegger,JacopoRomagnoli,MichaelStrong,CristinaMehedinteanu,JohnMeechan,LingcheeAng,MariuszKrok,ColleenMurphy,AdamMurawski,AndreaDelValleGarcia,ArturMatewski,AgnieszkaWozniak,ErnestasValantinas,CarlosPrachediPesca,RobertJastrzebski,PeterPolgar,DamianZmijewski,ElimarViale,JaredCarter,AliJannas,SergioCava,RobertCzarniak,ArkadiuszJaroszynski,MagdalenaJuhaszandZbigniewZubel.

Morethananyoneelse,really,wearegratefultoallthesweet-toothedcustomersofOttolenghiandNOPIwhohavebeennibblingonourbrittles,chewingourbiscuits,inhalingourmeringuesandscoffingourcakesformanymanyyears.Pleasekeeponcomingandletuscarryonbakingtoourheart’sdelight.

Finally,wewouldliketoacknowledgeasmallgroupofclosefriendsandfamilyandthankthemhereforbeingpartofeverythingwedo.

HELEN›Firstandforemost,DavidKausman,myrockandconfidant,atruemensch,andfatherofmybeautifulchildren;myparents,fortheirexamplesofgenerosity,courageandperseverance;mysiblings,Jimmy,Lucy,LilyandMargaret,fortheirunfailingloveandsupport,andmypreciousniecesandnephews;BrendanSlaterandEngChingGohfortheirenduringloyaltytoourfamily;Mark,RomaandtheentireKausman/Aflalo/Tauberfamilies–themostincrediblein-lawsonecouldwishfor;theLeefamilywhostillloomsolargeandlovinglyinmylife–yourlittleAhNungturnedoutallrightintheend!

Iamblessedandgratefultohavethewonderfulfriendshipofsomanypeople,inLondonandMelbourne.Therearetoomanytomentionindividually,butspecialthankyoutoJohnRedlich,SherryStrong,KathyReed,FelicityCraig,CarolineLorandRichardRyan,ChryssaAnagnostouandJimTsaltis,MellyBeilby,NicoleRudolf,GoliNiliandAliHazrati,AliceandJamesSpence,BetsyandDavidGottlieb,ShehnazSuterwallaandAzeemAzhar,andthefabulousmumsat

NorlandPlaceSchool.YOTAM›KarlAllen,MaxandlittleFlynn;MichaelandRuthOttolenghi;Tirza,

Danny,Shira,YoavandAdamFlorentin;PeteandGretaAllen,ShacharArgov,GarryChang,AlexMeitlis,IvoBisignano,LuluBanquete,TamaraMeitlis,KerenMargalit,YoramEver-Hadani,ItzikLederfeind,IlanaLederfeindandAmos,ArielaandDavidOppenheim.

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