June 2010

02 | SITM | June 2010

Be Creative Media Production info@becreative.ie Editor Karen Creed :: karcreed@gmail.com Design INM Design Studio Images Deborah Flood and iStockphoto

Advertising Terri Byrne :: tbyrne@independent.ie :: T: 01 7055420 Repro Independent Newspapers (Ireland) Limited Published by Independent Newspapers (Ireland) Limited :: 27-32 Talbot Street, Dublin 1

Editor’s NoteThe question I often like to ask people is ironicallyone I hate being quizzed about.

“What’s your favourite holiday destination?” isnever an easy one to answer. The truth is I genuinelydon’t have a firm favourite. I am in awe of holiday-makers who are loyal fans of one particular destina-tion and confident they will never be led astray fromthinking there could be a better beach, town or resorton another continent. While I am lost for just onenumber one, I do remember the first place I fell headover heels with, planning my return before I hadeven unpacked my bags. It was an intriguing beachresort set amid the virgin jungle of Terengganu inMalaysia. One picture of the beach that flanked itsshore and friends could see why I was so entrancedby it. However it’s been three years since thatenchanting Tanjong Jara experience and I am slowlygetting over my obsession with it. In fact recently Inotice a stronger attachment to places closer tohome, in some cases they almost surpass my passionfor far-flung destinations. I am not sure whether it isan appreciation for the smaller things in life or realis-ing that the grass may not always be greener.Whatever it is, when I was sitting on the beach inRoundstone on a cloud free day recently, I realisedjust how good an Irish holiday can be. That said ifthe rain hampers my staycation, Malaysia will beback in the top spot.

Karen Creed

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04 Travel News From volunteer travel to pampering preparation, we recommend our favourite last minute offers and summer specials.

06 Life’s a beach in Turkey If you fancy an affordable sun holiday without compromising on luxury then east meets west could be your best bet writes Jenna Sweeney.

08 Canada callingThe winter Olympics may be over but Vancouver and its environs is still a playground for holidaymakers in summer writes Karen Creed.

10 My Holiday ItineraryFor some holidaymakers balming out on a beach is a dream escape. Others rather a more active break writes Corinna Ray as she talks to four jet-setters about their travel plans this summer.

12 The malteaser of the MedKevin Flanagan explains why an island whose name sounds like that of a character from Sesame Street gets his number one vote.

13 Boats, trains and automobilesThe threat of ash has made many of us question how we travel, with many looking at alternative ways to holiday this summer writes Patrick Ryan.

15 When dreams come trueAfter missing out on the childhood Disneyland experience, Karen Creed eventually made it there with her niece, only to realise it is just as impressive for grown ups.

contents

The Twilight zoneTwilight mania is crazy on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington and twi-hards, as they've now been tagged, have beenswarming to the area. Bella and Edward's home town of Forks has now seen a dramatic transformation and drawsthousands of fans to the temperate rainforest. Fans can visit Bella’s school and even see Bella’s old red pick up truck. Somemay be keen to visit the pretty costal town of Port Angeles where Bella and Edward enjoyed their first date at Bella Italia.Enjoy the mushroom ravioli as Bella did and those over the legal age can wash it down with a glass of blood red Twilightwine, produced at a local winery. The Olympic Peninsula features the Hoh Rainforest, a world UNESCO heritage site, wherevisitors can enjoy a raft or kayak trip on the glacier-fed River Hoh. It is blessed with miles of stunning coastline includingRuby Beach, one of the most photographed beaches. There are also numerous waterfalls and picturesque trails, notforgetting numerous Twilight tours. Before you head for Forks you can capture the latest Twilight movie on the big screen.The Twilight Saga:Eclipse opens nationwide on July 9th with previews on 3rd and 4th of July.

Travelnews

04 | SITM | June 2010

WHAT’S HOT IN THE WORLD OF TRAVELAND WHERE TO LOOK FOR LASTMINUTE HOLIDAYS?

A helping hand from the RitzGuests of the Ritz Carlton Powerscourt have a chance to add afeel good favour into their holiday, thanks to the hotel’sinnovative volunteer service, Give Back Getaway. The five starhotel has recently teamed up with the Children’s SunshineHome in Leopardstown, inviting guests to take a few hours outof their stay to help improve the lives of the children whodepend on the care at this home. From garden duty to paintingfurniture and household chores, anyone interested in taking partin a Give Back Getaway will be offered a Powerscourt rate of€165 B&B per room per night mid week and €195 B&B perroom per night at the weekend. • For more information on the hotel’s Give Back Getaway visit www.ritzcarlton.com/powerscourt or call 01 274 8888

Beauty and the Brooklodge Wicklow is dubbed the garden of Ireland for good reason and hotels like Brooklodge are integral to the county’sprofile as the perfect place to escape. The hotel and its surroundings are raved about, especially for its Spa andorganic restaurant. Brooklodge is also encouraging guests to make the most of the great outdoors with itinerariesfor hiking, biking, extreme adventures, family day trips, golf, horse riding, orienteering and much more. • For the hotel’s summer specials call 0402 36444 or visit www.brooklodge.com

Groomed for St Tropez With every sun holiday comes the checklist and we’re notjust talking about the packing. Getting your body preparedfor beach life is a priority, and usually this can add up to acostly sum. However bargains are in abundance and CarterBeauty in Blackrock is running a €99 deal all summer longfor a head to toe summer pamper package. Feet and handsare brought back to their former glory with a manicure andpedicure, a diamond microdermabrasion facial takes off adead layer of skin, while a strawberry back scrub will leaveyou smelling and feeling great. An eyebrow wax is alsoincluded in the €99 package. Also for those who rather fake it than bake it on holiday a spray tan costs just €15. • Visit www.carterbeauty.ie or call 01 2103624

Travelnews

June 2010 | SITM | 05

Moving onwards and upwardsIn February 2010 Clem Walshe, Budget Travel’sformer head of marketing, set up LocalMarketing.iespecialising in a mix of consultancy services andmarketing strategies for small to medium sizedbusinesses that can’t afford either the time ormoney to effectively market their business. • For further information log on towww.localmarketing.ie

Gold star for Turkish AirlinesTurkish Airlines has been named the best airline inSouthern Europe and the best quality in economyclass according to Skytrak (the Oscars of theAviation industry). The airline also marked its nameon the 3rd place in the best airline companies in allEuropean countries. • For flight schedules and prices www.thy.com

Mobile travelIn the first five months of 2010 more than 800,000people used their mobile phone to access the web.Now Tour America is catering to this demand bygetting its mobile website live and available to allcustomers. It gives the browser the latest flight, hoteland package specials in the USA and is updated andre-priced every 20 minutes. • Visit www.touramerica.ie or call 01 8173500 or 021 4580999

Let the experts do the hard workThere’s no need to take a day off work toqueue at embassies for holiday visas – insteadyou can let Trailfinders do the hard work.Visas are their speciality and they can arrangeup to twenty different types of visa includingAustralia, China, India, Russia and Vietnam.• Call 01 881 49 49, visit 4 / 5 Dawson Street,Dublin 2 or see http://visas.trailfinders.ie formore details.

London theatreFans of the West End can try tick off the top tenrated musicals in London’s theatre district. WeWill Rock is at the top spot while Chicago andThe Lion King are close behind. Getting toLondon is cheaper than ever with flights withBMI from €37 including taxes and charges. • Visit www.flybmi.com andwww.visitlondon.com

editor’spick

Focus on BrazilMSC Cruises isn’t just making waves with its legendarycruises. Its involvement with the “Get on board forChildren” is making huge progress. The UNICEF project isa result of a three-year partnership agreement helpingdisadvantaged children in Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. • For further information or to book an MSC cruise visitwww.msccruises.co.uk

EUROPEAN ESCAPESThis summer consider heading to theturquoise coast in Turkey for seven nightsfrom just €459 per person sharing.Lanzarote for a family (two adults and twochildren) in a three star for one week is€1,526 while Majorca is €1,467 leavingDublin on July 10th. • Visit www.falconholidays.ie or callFalcon Direct on 1850 45 35 45

WE’RE GOING TO IBIZASanta Eulalia, one of Ibiza’s finest resorts isa fantastic destination for families with apalm-lined promenade, a sandy beach andsome excellent tourist facilities. The CasaLuis Apartments have been welcomingIrish guests for over 30 years and if lying bythe pool under the banana trees is youridea of heaven then visit www.casaluis-ibiza.com

FERRY AT THE FOREStena Line has experienced a 10% increasein its Landbridge bookings to Europe thissummer, claiming people travelling thisway can save over €1,500 compared tothose who fly. A family of four heading forBordeaux can travel from Dublin Port toHolyhead, onward from Dover to Calaisfrom only €552 with no baggagerestrictions or excess charges. Visit www.stenaline.ie

TIME OUT THAILANDTravel Mood is offering excellent holidaypackages to Thailand to tempt Irishholidaymakers back to the Far Eastparadise. Enjoy 10 nights in the beachresort of Pattaya in a four star from €668.Or experience a twin break in Chiang Mai and Koh Samui from €1,396. Visit www.travelmood.ie or call 01 4331041.

FEEL THE PASSION INOBERAMMERGAUIt is impossible to talk about the Germantown of Oberammergau without talking about the Passion Play. Occurringjust once a decade it is the main touristattraction of the town. Topflight specialisesin holidays to Oberammergau. Or you could visit Verona for the opera.Prices are from €659pp plus taxes for three nights including flights. Visit www.topflight.ie

Last MinuteDeals

Sun Escape

06 | SITM | June 2010

Some countries boast abouthaving a beach for every day ofthe year. In Turkey this claimcould easily be proven giventhe sheer size of the coastlinethat is flanked by sandy shores,cosy inlets and secluded bays.Most of these have been sought

out by intrepid tourists and glittering resortsnow flank much of the coastline with luxuryvillas, boutique hotels and all inclusive resortsoffering enticing deals to those interested inholidaying in a sunshine paradise. What’smore, a competitive exchange rate has furtherboosted the appeal for holidaymakers whochoose Turkey over other summer hotspots.Given the popularity and affordability of all-inclusive hotels it is a popular way for manyholidaymakers to experience the resorts thathave become an integral part of Turkey’sholiday map.

Antalya is a well known thriving coastal citywhere crowds swarm to soak up the sun andTurkish culture. It is a modern city that hasplenty of beaches and a picturesque oldquarter. Marmaris is another popular resort ina stunning setting, with pine-clad hillsdropping steeply to the sea, interspersed withjagged inlets and tiny rocky islets off thecoast. Içmeler boasts the best beach in thearea – a sweeping bay of golden sand, with anarray of water sports. The beautiful beaches

don’t stop there. Bodrum may be a wellestablished resort with an eclectic dining sceneand nightlife but some of its main attractionsare the alluring bays and coves around thepeninsula on the west coast. Just a short drivefrom the buzz of Bodrum, you can stillencounter quaint fishing villages likeGumusluk. Here you can bathe in crystal clearwater and enjoy platters of seafood in seasiderestaurants that have no menus but simplyexpert chefs who will serve up whatever yourpalate craves. While the Blue Lagoon ofOludeniz on the Aegean coast is the mostphotographed beach in Turkey, there are manyothers that compete for the title of mostpicturesque including Patara near Kalkan.Kusadasi is another of Turkey’s jewels withkilometres of fine sand, a beautiful harbour andan important centre for scuba diving and boat

tours around the stunning coastline.What makes Turkey a particularly appealing

holiday destination is that it’s not just aboutbeach culture. There is also plenty to discoverwhether your interest lies in food, cities,historic sites or activities. Istanbul is highlyrecommended for a day or overnightexcursion; although in reality it takes severalvisits to discover the city’s beauty in itsentirety. It is like an open air museum, withone of the most famous and striking skylinesin the world. Straddling two continents,highlights include Hagia Sophia, the TopkapiPalace, the Grand Bazaar, the Blue Mosque anda scenic Bosphorus cruise. The IstanbulModern Museum is rapidly carving out a namefor itself as a leading outlet for Europeanmodern art while the historic sites of thisvibrant and unique city have been awardedcoveted UNESCO world heritage status.

When one needs time out from the beach,shopping is one of the most lucrative holidayactivities. If you like haggling for bargains thenyou will revel in Turkey’s shopping culture. Itis an experience in itself what with any self-respecting village, resort or town hosting itsvery own colourful bazaar. Goods are alreadyexcellent value for money and they ofteninclude textiles and leather goods, designerfakes, jewellery, handicrafts and spices. Forthose who rather stick to coastal activities,sailing is a popular pastime. Given its calm

turquoise waters, it’s no surprise that sailinghas become an integral part of holidays inTurkey. Gulet cruising is another sea basedactivity which involves traditional Turkishwooden vessels that cruise along the country’smost spectacular stretch of coastline. It is achance to explore deserted bays, hidden inlets,pristine waters and gloriously unspoilt,tranquil beaches along the turquoise coast.Golf has also taken off in a big way in Turkey.The resort of Belek on the Mediterranean coastcurrently boasts seven world class golf courses,including the Cornelia Faldo, an 18 holechampionship course designed by Nick Faldo.

Of course a holiday is never completewithout some mention of food. There is muchmore to Turkish cuisine than kebabs, althoughadmittedly, these are also excellent. Eating outin Turkey represents fantastic value for moneyand although international cuisine is widelyavailable in tourist resorts and cities, yousimply cannot beat the local food. Favouritesinclude meze (a selection of hot and coldstarters including yoghurt-based dips),hummus, and cheese filled borek (pastries).There are also Turkish variations on pizza,commonly topped with minced, spiced meat;delicious and fresh sea food. Mouth wateringdesserts include sweet and sticky baklava. n

• For more information on holidays in Turkeyvisit www.gototurkey.co.uk

Life’s a beach in

TurkeyIf you fancy an affordable sun holiday without

compromising on luxury then east meets west could beyour best bet writes JENNA SWEENEY

“WHAT MAKES TURKEY A PARTICULARLYAPPEALING HOLIDAY DESTINATION ISTHAT IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT BEACHCULTURE. THERE IS ALSO PLENTY TODISCOVER WHETHER YOUR INTERESTLIES IN FOOD, CITIES, HISTORIC SITES OR ACTIVITIES.”

Farflung Holidays

08 | SITM | June 2010

The Irish and the Vancouveriteshave a lot more in commonthan I ever imagined.Interestingly both are exposed toa high cost of living and asignificant amount of rain. Whythen you might ask would anIrish person want to holiday in

Vancouver, never mind relocate therepermanently. I was wary of this as I plannedmy visit to Vancouver to investigate what itoffered as a holiday destination. Followingthe hype of the Winter Olympics held therein February and with serious interest inVancouver as a winter retreat, I wondered ifit could offer something just as appealing forsummer visitors.

Since I am used to carrying a rain cloudwith me to almost everywhere I travel, Iwas surprised to touch down in Vancouveron a clear balmy evening in early June. It isprobably worth mentioning here that Iarrived eight hours later than planned as Imissed my Vancouver connection inLondon, only to be kindly accommodatedon a later departure via Edmonton by AirCanada. Thankful to be getting toVancouver at all, I was on a serious higharriving into the city and passing streets like

Granville added to my excitement with itseclectic mix of shops, restaurants that spilledout onto the street and residents who lookedso chirpy they could have been on holiday.The scenery was just as inspiring.Vancouver’s skyline is jaw dropping as thecity tucks itself neatly between snow-cappedmountains and a shimmering coastline. Thispanorama confirms why Vancouver has beenheralded one of the most scenic cities in theworld. On a par with Sydney and Cape Townit matches them also in its dizzying array ofsuburbs and pot pourri of cultures. I wassoon to realise that the Japanese guaranteethe best sushi in Vancouver outside of Japan,the Australians provide some of the bestoutdoor adventure instructors and the Irishare integral to the buzz of city nightlife.

With my wonderful Irish friend as my tourguide there was no chance of me falling intoanything but the hotspots of Vancouver. Westarted with a Saturday night in Gastownbefore moving on to yuppie Yaletown andKitsilano or Kitz as it is locally referred to.The latter has become the place for the Irishto make their base and it has a distinctresemblance to Sandycove or Blackrock with its long stretch of beach, cool hangouts,fresh market stores and boutiques that beg to

be perused. My holiday accommodationcould have been at my friend’s charminghome in Commercial but instead I chose tostay in the heart of the city at the Bayshore.The Westin has a prime location herestraddling Stanley Park (Vancouver’s answerto Central Park) with its stunning forest,swimming pool, cycle paths and lots ofgreenery in between.

I must have woken up with Canadianinspiration on my first morning as I wentfor a jog in the park before stopping at TimHorton’s (Canada’s number one coffeeoutlet) for a coffee and bagel. A few hourslater I was on Capilano Suspension Bridgeand meandering through the treetops amidthe lush greenery. Further uphill was GrouseMountain which is a well known point forbear spotting and zip trekking. Although Ididn’t see any grizzlies, I did catch a glimpseof white wolves from the safety of a gondolaas we ascended the mountain. Bears andwolves might sound frightening to the firsttime visitor, but they are part of the naturalhabitat and the locals seem to take this intheir stride with their motto “keep thetowns clean so the bears don’t comeroaming for food.” With an appetite like agrizzly, I was looking forward to one of

Vancouver’s finest pizzas later on thatevening. However a recommendation tosample top notch sushi outshone the Italianoption. I was still double checking the billthe next day as I couldn’t believe 18 piecesof sushi in a sit down restaurant cost lessthan $6. To get bargains like this in a citythat is notoriously pricey makes anyholidaymaker feel rather chuffed.

Vancouver is the gateway to manyintriguing destinations in Western Canada,such as Victoria which is the regional capitalor the elegant city of Edmonton. Possibly itsbest known neighbour is Whistler, orWhistralia as it is fondly referred to giventhe number of Australians who now workthere. I am not at all surprised why theAussies have relocated to this resort town. It is an idyllic mountain location where youcan ski down a glacier mountain, bikethrough dramatic terrain and swim in oneof the many scenic lakes all in the one day.Whistler is easily accessible from Vancouverby car and bus, taking just over two hours.However a real thrill involved hopping onboard The Rocky Mountaineer which chugsalong the coastal route. The opulentexperience was complemented by first classservice on board and informative guides allthe way. There is even an open carriage inthe middle of the train so you can capturethe perfect snapshots. When wedisembarked at Whistler we didn’t havemuch time to explore the quaint village justyet as we were signed up for a zip trekthrough the rainforest. Three hours later Iwas cannon-balling 1200 feet above thecanyon, surprisingly fearless of the dramaticheights that I was propelled above.Afterwards the hunger pangs were satisfiedwith delicious hot dogs and burgers fromthe main square before we rambled in andout of the stores browsing the discount railsfor sports gear. Later that evening we foundjust enough room to fill up on deliciouspasta and salad in Earl’s before having a few après drinks in the Amsterdam bar.The high

Canada calling

It may be attracting an influx of ambitious Irish workers, but Western Canada is also adesirable destination for adventurous holidaymakers writes KAREN CREED

Farflung Holidays

June 2010 | SITM | 09

altitude must have hit ourenergy levels as we were fitfor bed before we could makeit to any of the renowned latenight spots like Buffalo Bills.Although we weren’troughing it in Whistler,many do and camping is apopular weekend or holidayactivity. Glamping has evenfound its niche here as ahappy balance of campingwith luxury trimmings.

The next morning we tookoff on a gondola upBlackcomb Mountain to seefirsthand that you can skihere in summer right up until July. If I hadknown in advance I would have set myselfthe challenge of biking, skiing andswimming in the one day. Or else taken theopposite approach and just chilled out in theScandinavian inspired destination spasituated a few miles from Whistler. But timewas not on our side and our Pacific Coachwas soon to be picking us up for our returnto Vancouver. Back in the city I had one dayleft to explore the rest of this enthrallingmetropolis - not nearly enough time to tickoff everything on my wish list. Fortunately itis a pedestrian friendly destination andexceptionally easy to navigate from one areato the next. If you rather not walk, the bus

or skytrain is extremelyefficient and cabs are notthat expensive either.Seaplanes are another way ofgetting around and are acommon sight in Vancouver’swaters. Interestingly the cityhas the highest sea planepopulation in North America.Biking is probably the mostpopular way for gettingaround the city and forCanadians it makes sense asthis way they are bothexercising and saving money.

With invites to barbecues,festivals and baseball games

during my short stay, I could see the appealfor so many to live here. Even if the heavensbreak open, Vancouverites don’t let thetemperamental climate ruin their plans.Perhaps this is because they are guaranteed asummer with high temperatures.

Although I didn’t have shopping on myto-do list, I was tempted to have one shortstroll down Robson Street before packing my bags. I was led to believe it would not match up to shopping in the States but I was lucky as I pickedup several bargains. Mycredit card didn’tget a chance tobe exploited in

the boutiques nor had I the time to exploreGranville Island properly, with its selectionof artisan and jewellery stores. I also missedout on a visit to the extravagant residenceson Vancouver Island, but I believe the localswhen they say it is breathtaking. After allthey are not lying when it comes toeverything else that is on show in thisenthralling city.

As much as the sights, sounds and smellsof Vancouver impressed me, it was the tasteof it that has me craving a return. Whowould have known I had to travel toVancouver to get a serious love for sushi. n

• Karen flew direct to Vancouver from LondonHeathrow with Air Canada. Flights are alsoavailable from Ireland with Air Canada viaToronto. For more information on flights andfares visit www.aircanada.com • For information on Vancouver visitwww.tourismvancouver.com and for Whistlervisit www.whistler.com • For package holidays and escorted tours toCanada visit www.touramerica.ie andwww.americanholidays.ie

10 THINGS TO DO IN VANCOUVER

1. Hike the Grouse Grind, a steep uphill trek through the forest. It can take up to two hours but you can take the gondola ride back down for $5

2. Go celebrity spotting by watching a movie being made on the streets. Just look for large white trailers or see what current productions are being filmed on www.bcfilmcommission.com

3. Take a tour of Granville Island Public Market. Ask about local ingredients and what to make with them.

4. Make friends with the locals and if you are lucky you can be their buddy pass onSundays which means free travel on the sky train.

5. On a clear night gaze at the stars for free just outside the Space Centre in Vanier Park

6. Dive in and have a swim at two of Vancouver’s outdoor public pools. The Kitsilano pool is one of the largest heated saltwater pools in Canada while Stanley Park’s comes with views across English Bay.

7. Have a game of pitch n putt into the twilight hours in Stanley Park

8. Check out the view of the city by kayaking your way along the waters of False Creek.

9. Rent a quadra-cycle and check out the greater Vancouver Zoo.

10. Warm your insides with a japapeno or chile pepper and chocolate gelato from La Casa Gelato, the only retailer in the world with 508 gelato flavours.

n The Rocky Mountaineer

n Karen's zip trek

Travel wishlist

10 | SITM | June 2010

If you fancy an affordable sun holiday withoutcompromising on luxury then east meets west could be

your best bet writes JENNA SWEENEY

My holiday itinerary...For some holidaymakers balming out on a beach is their dream escape. Others rather a jampacked itinerary writes CORINNA RAY as she talks to four jet-setters about their travelplans for this summer

busy as I get bored easily. As I'm quite sporty,a beach holiday means loads of waterskiing,kayaking, swimming and snorkelling. Thepeople you're away with, the weather andthe local amenities are the three mostimportant things for a holiday. Also cost ispretty important. It’s awful to feel like atourist being ripped-off. I'm not very good atpacking light. I bring a decent selection ofsummer dresses, bikinis, kaftans, wedges andflip-flops, a few little cardigans for theevenings and some good books to read. Afew weeks ago, I enjoyed a lovely few days inSpain with some girlfriends. It was just arelaxing sunshine break and a really cheapholiday. We got great value flights and stayedin a friend's apartment and just chilled out.It was the perfect low-cost break and I love agood bargain holiday. I hope to get awayagain for a few more days at some stage overthe year.

DAITHI O SÉ TV PresenterI am back on the roadthis summer for a roadtrip. I am driving fromthe border in Canadato the keys in Florida.It will take about sevenweeks. I have been in39 of the 52 states. Some of the Americans dofifty before they turn fifty which is cool. Ithink the weather works well for me withroad trips as the weather is always nice. I alsoenjoy America as the Americans are so off thewall. I don’t know if you would get the samepeople in Europe. If I was to do a road trip inEurope I would like to drive down tosomewhere like the former Iron Curtain. Wedo know a fair bit about the German, and theSpanish but the Albanians and Croatianswould be very interesting.

TONY WHEELERFounder of LonelyPlanetThere are always newplaces to find andexplore in the world. Itry and go to at least afew new ones everyyear. I would bedisappointed if there wasn’t a new place to visit. This year I went to Malawi and then Costa Rica which is a bit like Irelandwith lots of adventure. I have a friend who has been to every single country in the world but I haven’t got to his stage quite yet. I think people are trying to make their money go further withholidays now and that is why adventureholidays are great. It makes sense to go off on a walking or cycling holiday as it is much cheaper than renting a car anddriving around some place. Sarajevo is one of my favourite city breaks to explore. It was completely off the radar and now it’s back on it. n

MICHELLE JACKSONAuthorI will be going to LakeGarda in July with myhusband and twochildren. I loveholidays because theyare where I get theinspiration andresearch for my novels so I always try tochose somewhere that I haven’t been before.I have heard a lot of great things about LakeGarda. We hope to take a day trip to Veniceas my son really wants to go there afterdoing a project about it in school this year.We are an active family: we live in Howthand enjoy sailing and the outdoor life andwere attracted by all of the activitiesavailable around Lake Garda. Gardaland andthe Aquapark are a huge draw for the kids.We chose an all-inclusive option in a fourstar hotel and it has worked out terrific valuefor money. Everything down to bike-hire,kids clubs and all drinks and ice-creams areincluded. We plan to cycle and see as muchof the countryside as we can during our stay.We will probably hire a car for a few days butleave some time for the pool and generallybalance our itinerary between sightseeingand active relaxation. We always end upspending more money than we intended as afamily because we try to pack so much in onour holidays. If a chance trip to see dolphinscomes up or to take a train journey that wehaven’t budgeted for we will say what thehell and pay for it when we get home.Having an open and inquisitive mind is themost important thing to bring on holiday.The first item I will be packing is my camera.I only write about places that I have visitedand I find photos help enormously torecollect once I have been away from a place.Taking lots of photographs can help you torelive those precious moments too. • Michelle is the author of ‘Two Days inBiarritz,’ ‘Three Nights in New York’ and hernew novel ‘One Kiss in Havana’ will bereleased on the 5th July.

ROSANNA DAVISONModelAs much as I loveexploring gorgeous,hidden parts ofIreland, I also lovethe completeanonymity of beingabroad. And thebetter weather too! It really depends on the type of holiday, but I do like it to keep

“ IT MAKES SENSE TO GO OFF ON A WALKING OR CYCLINGHOLIDAY AS IT IS MUCH CHEAPER THAN RENTING A CAR ANDDRIVING AROUND SOME PLACE” Tony Wheeler

My Favourite place

12 | SITM | June 2010

My favourite place inIreland is Dingle. Ithas a character all ofits own and when itis sunny it’s literallyheaven on earth.The only problemwith Dingle is it’s

rarely sunny and I’ve often trudged aroundits cold, wet streets trying to imagine whatit would be like if it was magicallytransported into the middle of the Med!Well, seven years ago I discovered aMediterranean island which could wellpass for An Daingean and goes under thestrange name of Gozo.

Gozo is the small island next to Malta,about the size of Manhattan but with only30,000 inhabitants (as opposed to some 1.6million for Manhattan). To get to Gozo youfly to Malta and take a 15-minute ferryride. As the water slips by it feels like youare stepping back in time. In Gozo the paceof life is slow, there are few cars on theroads and just one set of traffic lights onthe entire island. I discovered the uniquecharm of Gozo when a good friend of minebought a villa there in 2004 and invited myson and I over. We had a ball, learning toscuba dive in the clear blue Mediterraneanwaters during the day while enjoyingseafood at quaint but reasonably pricedrestaurants at night. (My favouriterestaurant is located on the beach at Mgarrix-Xini, where the shrimps are barbequedthe moment they are taken out of thewater. You an eat them while taking in the

view, washing everything down withremarkably good local wine.) Summerweekends in Gozo are filled with the soundof fireworks as each of the small villagescelebrates its own patron saint. Everyonedresses up and the narrow streets are filledwith locals and visitors alike, all enjoyingthe carnival atmosphere.

After that first memorable visit I havereturned to Gozo every year at least onceand often twice or three times. Ryanair run

several flights a week to Malta, whichmakes travel cheap and easy to plan. Whenmy friend’s villa is not available I stay inone of the many hotels owned by the Borgfamily. Hotel Ta’ Cenc is a five-star propertythat is great for a ‘get away from it all’break. It has a wonderful spa and offersquiet walks along the cliffs facing Malta.Couples looking for a romantic break couldtry St Patrick’s Hotel in Xlendi, where youcan stroll hand-in-hand along the picture-perfect promenade or try one of the manyexcellent restaurants. On the other side ofthe island in the village of Xaghra is theCornucopia Hotel. This is particularlysuitable for those with young families, whocan rent one of the large bungalowsoverlooking the bay at Marsalforn; and ifyou fancy a day building sandcastles withthe kids, Ramla beach is just a five minutes’drive away.

In the seven years I have been coming to Gozo I have noticed being joined on the flight by an ever-increasing number ofIrish people. Monica Borg, who runs theCornucopia Hotel, explains why shebelieves the island is so popular with theIrish: “Irish people are at heart veryMediterranean. They are very social and

love nothing more than chatting andrelaxing over a meal and bottle of wine.They also share our Catholic heritage whileat the same time having the same distrust ofauthority. We really are like cousins.“Monica has noticed an increasing numberof Irish people getting married on theisland. “They find it considerably cheaperand as a result we’ve hosted several Irishwedding receptions in the palazzo at Ta’Cenc. Family and friends come over andstay in the hotel so it’s all under one roofand the couple can stay on to enjoy theirhoneymoon. I think the weather makes abig difference. Guests often tell me it’sraining back in Ireland while they’re outhaving their wedding photos taken againsta perfectly blue sky.”

I have found many other similaritiesbetween Gozo and Dingle. English is spokenby just about everyone on the island but ina strong accent that is often difficult todecipher; you drive on the same side of theroad and often over potholes; and, peoplestop their cars in the middle of the highstreet to have a chat with a passer-by! Yes, asI walk around Gozo I often think I’m in AnDaingean – except for the fact that I have toput on factor 15 instead of a raincoat. n

Hooked on

GozoKEVIN FLANAGAN explains why an island whose name sounds likethat of a character from Sesame Street gets his number one vote

FACTBOX

• For more information on Malta and Gozo visit www.visitmalta.com • Fly direct to Malta with Ryanair www.ryanair.com • Accommodation at Hotel Ta’ Cenc & Spa, Sannat

Email: tacenc@vjborg.com or visit www.tacenchotel.com• Cornucopia Hotel & Bungalows, Xaghra

Email: cornucopia@vjborg.com or visit www.cornucopiahotel.com • St Patrick’s Hotel, Xlendi

Email stpatricks@vjborg.com or visit www.vjborg.comCAR HIRE: Gozo Garage, Sir Luigi Camilleri Street, Victoria Tel: +35621551866 • E-mail: gozogarge@vjborg.com DIVING SCHOOLS: St Andrew’s Divers Cove Email standrew@gozodive.com or visit www.gozodive.com n The spectacular Ramala Beach in Gozo

June 2010 | SITM | 13

journey in two weeks would mean acomfortable amount of time to stop in placesand relax, while including two countries intoyour holiday itinerary.

A family of four can travel with their car ina four berth cabin from Ireland to France from€138 per person return, a total of €552.00. • www.brittanyferries.com

TRAIN JOURNEYIf train travel conjures images of frazzledcommuters crammed onto a rickety carriage,take pleasure in the nostalgia of a more genteelera of train travel. Train travel is by no meansthe fastest or most efficient way to get aroundbut it is one of the most atmospheric withspeeds perfect for sightseeing. For the morescenic train journeys it is necessary to take aferry first to France or the UK with prices from€79. Inter-rail is one of the cheapest and mostaccessible ways to journey through Europe.There are five types of

ROAD TRIPIf you're looking for adventure in your zippyset of wheels then join the millions of like-minded people who are keen to explore placeson their own time and itinerary. Road trippingis an odyssey, where random detours andcroissant breaks happen on your schedule.Take the car by ferry to France and head for adestination in Europe that you are keen toexplore. Or take in several countries on theone road trip. There's good reason France isone of the world's most popular drivingdestinations: as well as excellent roads it hostscopious attractions, from bike-beckoning,wine-making countryside and Roman ruins toRenaissance castles and art-saturated museums.Travel down to the south and you willuncover France's mystique with forays into itshistoric cities, pleasant rural scenery, andpalm-studded shores. For those who want tomove on to Italian territory the lakes ofLombardy, and charming cities will provideperfect pit stops. It may seem like a lot ofdriving but covering this

PATRICK RYAN goes in search of alternative ways to holiday this summer,with no chance of volcanic ash disrupting your plans.

Boats, trains and automobiles

global pass, and each one is slightly different.The key to understanding which type issuitable for your journey is in the differencebetween ‘continuous’ passes and ‘flexi’. Whileit is cheaper for the under 26’s to travel oninter rail it is not exclusive to the young or gapgeneration, and more families are signing upto this type of travel for cultural holidayexperiences. It offers good value too withprices from €399 for a month’s pass. A 20 day round trip from London toThessaloniki in Greece includes a six daystop in Greece and three day mini breaksin Vienna, Budapest and Belgrade. Thereare also Spain/France packages whichincludes Barcelona and Valencia, or a tenday mini adventure to Berlin and Prague.

coastline and is experience at having novicecrew. Prices vary from €299 for weekendsailing trips to €750 for seven day trips withwww.westcorksailing.com Another boatingoption is a holiday on the Shannon withEmerald Star. The perk of this holiday is thatno boating experience is needed and you canstart your cruise from Carrick on Shannon,Portumna or Belturbet. Most will take a weekon board and stop off in the many townsalong the way to eat, drink and explore thesights To cruise the Shannon for seven nightsprices vary from €771 for three people onboard or for a larger boat that sleeps up to fivepeople this is priced from €1,371. n

• Visit www.emeraldstar.ie

SAILING AND BOATINGIf we are set for a summer of sun,cruising the coast of West Cork couldcompete with the Greek islands. Theoptions for sailing holidays in this partof Ireland include day trips or weeklong tours visiting the islands like CapeClear and Inish Beg. If you have smallchildren then the cruising andadventure is set at a pace to suitthem, while the theory and boathandling training is learnt along theway by the parents and olderchildren. Short sails and lots ofstops give all the family a chance toenjoy the cruising and coastline.Anchor up in coves for a picniclunch and quick dip or paddleashore to explore the coast. Youcan tie up in the evenings at

locations to suit your needs, from quietanchorages to convenient piers. The qualifiedskipper is also an instructor, so you can benefitfrom professional training as well as the peaceof mind of a skipper that knows the boat,

Ash proof travel

Family Travel

There was disbelief from somefriends when I revealed my latestadventure with excitement.“Disneyland with a four year old,”commented one. “That would bemy worst nightmare.” Otherswere in awe of my good deed,taking my niece away to a

children’s paradise for three days. The reality, however, was far from whatthey assumed. I myself wanted to live outthe Disneyland Paris dream. Unlike

most of them who had the chanceas a child or a teenager to visit thewonderland, this was my goldenopportunity to get lost inSleeping Beauty’s castle, overdoseon pink candyfloss and meet myfavourite Disney characters fromchildhood, all the while using my

four year old niece as a perfectlyreasonable excuse.

After seeing numerous TV adverts.Amelia Rae already had her own

checklist lined up which we discussedin detail on the flight from Dublin to

Paris. It went as follows: visit SleepingBeauty’s castle; meet Sleeping Beauty;kiss Minnie Mouse. Three goals in threedays was certainly feasible, especiallywith some planning in advance. I knew that Sleeping Beauty would makeseveral appearances throughout the day

in both the parade and her own meet andgreet in the main square. However I

predicted the Minnie Mouse encounter wasnot going to be the easiest to fulfil. Howeverwhen we arrived at our hotel the concierge

recommended I book a lunch with theDisney characters at Café Disney as a guarantee for Amelia Rae to meet heridol. With this booked for the next day,there was nothing left to do but enjoy thethree day adventure for all it was worth.

Like most visitors we chose to stay in one of the hotels on the Disneyland site. TheNewport Bay is a favourite among Irishfamilies, probably because it is a stone’s

throw from the parks and its nautical theme isquite endearing to both kids and adults.Rooms are designed with so much space thatthey fit a family of four comfortably while theDisneyland store is the only part of the hotelthat you might want to avoid if your child hasa tendency to ask for everything under thesun. Although I’m not a parent, I can vouchfor the fact that it requires serious willpowernot to give in to every request; otherwise youwill go home with bags full of merchandiseand spoilt brats. My philosophy was a treat atthe start (which was a Minnie Mouse balloonin our case) and a treat at the end of the trip asa souvenir. Fortunately for Amelia Rae and mypocket, Mickey Mouse had left her a few giftsin our hotel knowing it was her birthday the next day. So before we even stepped footinto the park she had clocked up a bag full ofgifts including a Nemo teddy, a glitteringDisney mug and an all important autographbook so she could get the signatures of her Disney idols.

The golden gates were not far from our hotelbut rather than take the short walk, wejumped on board a train right outside ourhotel that took us there for €2 each. Free busesdepart from the hotel also which is ideal forthose keen to keep the costs down. Weavoided long queues at the ticket desk bybooking our tickets in advance. With twoparks, it's usually a good idea to get a ParkHopper pass, allowing you to jump betweenDisneyland and Walt Disney Studios parkswhenever you want. Once we walked throughthe gates of Disneyland Park it becamesomewhat of a blur for Amelia Rae. Such wasthe build up of excitement she wanted to doeverything all at once. There was the magicalcarousel, the flying elephants, Peter Pan’s flightand the Disney Playhouse. Fascinated by allthe other children wandering around, she waseager to follow their footsteps to see whatattraction they were venturing to next. Wefollowed the crowds and it was only when wepassed the fountain and turned onto MainStreet that we both stopped in our tracks.There in front of us was Sleeping Beauty’s

Who saysdreams don’tcome true

After missing out on the childhood Disneyland experience, KAREN CREED eventually made it there with her niece, only to realise it’s just as impressive for grown ups.

Family Travel

n Rafael Nadal celebrates his French Open win with a visit to Disneyland Paris

June 2010 | SITM | 15

castle. It is undoubtedly the jewel in the crownof the Disneyland Park and is met with gaspsof “oohs” and “aahs” all day long. It was a pityI did not capture Amelia Rae’s expression oncamera as I was too busy looking at it in sheeramazement. We both agreed to forget aboutthe carousel and other rides for a while andinstead take a stroll around the mesmerisingcastle. The flowing river and mystical bridgeleading to the castle caused her to shriek indelight while she tried to convince otherchildren nearby that Rapunzel probably livedin the top tower and Cinderella in another.

Just like her aunt, Amelia Rae has ainsatiable appetite and I wasn’t surprised thatthe excitement of living out her Disneylandfantasy weren’t enough to stop her frommoaning of hunger pains. So off we went insearch of a snack point. I was determined to

find one with healthy bites so that I wouldn’tbe left minding a four year old with a sicktummy later on that evening. Fortunately theFrench attitude to a balanced diet is evidenteven in Disneyland, and there are a number ofrestaurants that offer fresh salads andsandwiches. This is of course alongside all thetypical fast food eateries including the largestMcDonalds in France. It is not all cheap andcheerful either. There are spectacular settingsfor dinner and lunch including King Ludwig’sCastle and the Blue Lagoon.

The notion that Disneyland is just for kidswas put to bed several times over the few daysI was there. It isn’t just daring attractions likeTower of Terror and Space Mountain that aregeared towards the older or more fearlessvisitor. When we were queuing for certainrides I encountered many adults without kids

in tow, who were there for their ownentertainment. Even tennis champion RafaelNadal chose to celebrate his recent win at theFrench Open with a visit to Disneyland. It wasalso at dinners and lunches that I noticed justhow many couples swarm here. During ourlunch date with Minnie Mouse in Café Disney,an Italian couple at the table next to us werepalpitating with excitement about seeingMickey or il topolino as they referred to him.While they posed for pictures with Mickey, wewere flattered with all the attention Minniebestowed on us. The perky mouse really pulledit out of the bag as she announced to Ameliathat she shared the same birthday as her, andthat she was also turning four. This wasenough to send Amelia Rae into a tizzy ofexcitement and Minnie rounded off amemorable lunch by taking to the floor for awaltz with Mickey as we all cheered them on.

Afterwards we headed for the flyingelephants, cooled down with drinks at theMad Hatter’s Tea Party and went in search ofAlice in her wonderland. Fast Track was my lifesaviour for the few days as it meant we couldbook in advance the times to go on certainrides. We also headed for the Disney Playhouseto see the Disney characters act out someendearing scenes. I felt the trip was almostbecoming an educational one at this point aswe watched the shows in French, with AmeliaRae Rae shouting Oui Oui with the rest of thechildren. At 5.30pm we joined the crowds thatlined the street to watch the Wish upon adream parade which is the climax of every day.With the floats from all the Disney moviesserenading the crowds it was led by Minnieand Mickey, and followed by The Lion King,Aladdin and many other familiar characters.The latest introduction to the parade “PrincessTiana,stole the show.” It’s Disney’s first Africanprincess and obviously shows how muchDisney is trying to cater to its international fanbase. As Tiana and her colleagues took thetime |to wave to everyone on both sides of thepavement, I had my second chance to captureAmelia Rae’s look of delight.

The next day we waved goodbye to Minnieand had our last merry go round on thecarousel before it was time for us to leave. “But not before I get my present,” said AmeliaRae reminding me of the souvenir promise. I asked her what she wanted, expectingrequests for an expensive princess dress or thesleeping beauty castle she had spotted in theshop window on Main Street. Instead sheshocked me, asking for a green yo-yo that costjust €3. With a chance to practice her merci tothe yo-yo seller, she skipped along telling mehow much she loved Disneyland and wantedto come back. I’ve no doubt she will return tothis wonderland again. Who knows she mighteven bring her aunt along for the ride. n

• For more information on Disneyland and itsattractions and accommodation visitwww.disneylandparis.ie • For holidays to Disneyland from Ireland visitwww.abbeytravel.ie or www.breakaway.ie • Getting there: Air France flies up to seventimes daily from Dublin to Paris Charles deGaulle. Return fares start from €165.For moreinformation or to book online visitwww.airfrance.ie or for telephone bookingscall 0871 663 3777.

“THE NOTION THAT DISNEYLAND IS JUSTFOR KIDS WAS PUT TO BED SEVERALTIMES OVER THE FEW DAYS. IT ISN'TJUST DARING ATTRACTIONS LIKETOWER OF TERROR AND SPACEMOUNTAIN THAT ARE GEAREDTOWARDS THE OLDER OR MOREFEARLESS VISITOR.”