Summer Training ReportOn

“Engine Assembling and Maintenance of the Sedan Class Motorcar”

Bachelor of EngineeringIn

Aerospace Engineering

Proposed By

ISHAN K. PATEL

A50105513008

Under the guidance of

INDUSTRIAL GUIDEMr. Amit K. PatelService Manager,Cargo Motors Ltd.

Ahmedabad

Department of Aerospace EngineeringAmity School of Engineering & Technology Amity University Haryana

2015

1

ABSTRACT

The summer training was carried out at Cargo Motors Ltd., service

station, Ahmedabad. Primary objective of this training program was to

get an insight of engine assembling/replacement of a sedan class

motorcar. The car model under service was TATA Indigo eCS (from

class of TATA Indigo sub-compact sedan cars: 2003 model). This car

had already clocked 1.6 lakh kms and been undergone maintenance a

number of times. During last days the car started emitting white

smoke and was making clattering/rapping noises. Thus Customer was

advised to replace the old engine with a refurb engine. I worked with a

team of 4 mechanics. They were diligent and motivating. The training

last 36 days and I learnt a lot from this industrial training.

2

Table of ContentsAbstract . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21. Introduction

1.1. About the organization . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

1.2. Mission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

1.3. Brief History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

2. Literature Review

2.1. Preventive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

2.2. Engine overheating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

2.2.1. Causes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

2.2.2. Consequences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

2.3. Why to replace/rebuild the engine? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

2.4. To replace or To rebuild? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

2.5. Engine performance upgrade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

2.6. Choosing crate engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

3. Experimental Work

3.1. List of tools required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

3.2. Engine installation tips/ Precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

3.3. Methodology

3.3.1. Disassembling the engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

3.3.2. Installing the engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

4. Results & Findings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

5. Bibliography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

6. Appendix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

3

INTRODUCTION

About The Organization

Cargo Motors Pvt Limited, (CMPL) has been associated with Tata Motors for the last fifty years. They commenced operations selling commercial vehicles in the Kutch region of Gujarat after their Founding Chairman was awarded the dealership in 1959. Since then they have expanded their territories into Punjab and Rajasthan and have a state-wide presence in Gujarat. They are the largest selling dealer for Tata commercial vehicles and have also diversified into passenger cars and construction equipment.

Mission To be a learning growing company To be positive for attaining global standard in quality of services

offered To have mutual trust , respect, open communication and

transparency of action in all spheres of activity To be responsible, environment-friendly company and adopt

latest technologies available to reduce carbon footprint To be a truly World-Class company

4

Brief HistoryIncorporated in 1959, Cargo Motors Pvt. Ltd. is one of the leading Dealers for all range of TATA vehicles in the Country with an impressive consistent performance record for the past several decades. Under the able guidance of Founder-Chairman Late Shri Y.P.Nanda, Cargo Motors Private Limited has achieved phenomenal growth in all areas of its operations.

Cargo Motors is also having the main Dealership of Tata Vehicles at Ahmedabad, Gandhidham, Baroda and Jamnagar covering the Districts of Ahmedabad, Kutch, Gandhinagar, Baroda, Panchmahal, Dahod, Sabarkantha, Mehsana, Patan, Banaskantha, and Jamnagar in the State of Gujarat as well as Sales out-lets at Bhuj, Mehsana, Palanpur, Himatnagar and Godhra.

And are also Dealers for M/s.Tata Motors Limited in the State of Punjab for the Districts of Jalandhar, Kapurthala, Amritsar, Nawanshahr and Gurdaspur. The Company is also having Dealership of Honda Motorcycle & Scooters (India) Pvt. Ltd., (HMSI) in Gandhidham (Gujarat). Today with a 1765 people strong family, Cargo Motors has become one of the most sought after Transportation & Logistics companies in India. The fact is well endorsed by the customers nationally. With a fleet of more than 270 vehicles including trucks, trailers, 32’ft containers & LCVs and with a network of warehouses in major cities in India, Cargo Motors offers a truly integrated  bouquet of total Logistics Services to its customers. We have our Construction equipment division dealing in the TELCON construction equipments & spares. We are also into hospitality industries with our own hotels & resorts.

Cargo Motors has a quality policy in place which ensures that each member of the Cargo Motor family complies with the set quality norms. All the processes that we undertake have an internal quality standard. Even our drivers are ensured to be compliant with the norms set forth for safety, security and quality. The processes are thoroughly monitored and regularly audited.

5

LITERATURE REVIEW

Preventive Maintenance

There are many good reasons for performing preventive measure.

Safety is greatly increased by changing worn parts. For example, if

the fan belt breaks, the water pump will not turn and the engine will

overheat. Overheating damages the cylinders, pistons, heads, valves,

head gasket and possibly other parts as well. To avoid this serious

damage of engine parts, the faulty or broken belt should be replaced.

Preventive maintenance is also cheaper. It is regularly required for

high performance of the engine. The parts changed in a regular tune-

up keep horsepower at the rated levels. Fuel mileage is increased

dramatically through preventive maintenance.

Preventive maintenance is known by many names. Many

people simply call it a tune-up. Most shops have a series of services

done at specified kilometres. No matter the service is called, all of

them are some forms of preventive maintenance.

6

Engine Overheating: Causes & Consequences

Most engines are designed to operate within a Normal temperature

range of 195 to 220 degree Fahrenheit. A relatively constant

temperature is essential for proper emission control, good fuel

economy and performance. But problems can arise that cause the

engine to run hotter than normal, resulting in engine overheating.

Anytime temperatures climb beyond the normal range, for any

reason, the engine is in danger of overheating.

Possible causes- overheating can be caused by anything that

decreases the cooling system’s ability to absorb, transport and

dissipate heat: A low coolant level, a coolant leak (through internal

& external leaks), poor heat conductivity inside the engine because

of accumulated deposits in the water jackets, a defective thermostat

that doesn’t open, poor airflow through the radiator, a slipping fan

clutch, an inoperative electric cooling fan, a collapsed lower

radiator hose, an eroded or loose water pump impeller, or even a

defective radiator cap.

One of the nature’s basic laws says that heat always flows

from an area of higher temperature to an area of lesser temperature,

never the other way round. The only way to cool a hot metal,

therefore, is to keep it in constant contact with a cooler liquid. And

the only way to keep the coolant in constant circulation. As soon as

the circulation stops, either because of the problem with the water

7

pump, thermostat or loss of coolant, engine temperatures begin to

rise and the engine starts to overheat.

The coolant also has to get rid of the heat it soaks up

inside the engine. If the radiator is clogged with bugs or debris, or

if its internal passages are blocked with sediment, rust or gunk, the

cooling efficiency will be reduced and the engine will run hot. The

same thing will happen if cooling fan is not spinning fast enough to

pull air through the radiator.

The thermostat must be doing its job to keep the engine’s

temperature within the normal range so the engine does overheat. If

the thermostat fails to open, it will effectively block the flow of

coolant and the engine will overheat.

Exhaust restrictions can also cause engine to overheat.

The exhaust carries a lot of heat away from the engine, so if the

catalytic converter is restricted, or a pipe has been crimped or

crushed, exhaust flow can be restricted causing heat to build up

inside the engine.

It’s also possible that the engine really isn’t overheating

at all. The temperature gauge or warning lamp might be coming on

because of a faulty coolant sensor. Sometimes this can be caused

by a low coolant level or air trapped under the sensor.

8

Possible Consequences of Engine Overheating

If the engine is overheating, it may start to detonate. The engine may

rattle and ping and lose power. If detonation continues, it may damage

the rings, pistons and/or rod bearings. Overheating can also cause

pisto scuffing. As the engine gets hotter and hotter, the pistons may

swell to the point where there is no more room for expansion and they

scrape against the cylinders, damaging the pistons and cylinders.

Exhaust valve may also stick or scuff in their guides. Thus can

damage the valves, guides and lead to a loss of compression.

Another consequence of engine overheating may be a blown

head gasket. Heat makes aluminum swell almost three times faster

than cast iron. Thermal stress can distort the head make it swell in

areas that are hottest like those between exhaust valves in adjoining

cylinders, and areas that have restricted coolant flow like the narrow

area in the middle, which can crush the head gasket if the head gets

too hot. This will usually cause the head gasket to leak compression

between adjacent cylinders, or leak coolant into the cylinder.

Engine overheating may also cause an overhead cam to seize

and break. Engine overheating may also stress old radiator and heater

hoses, and cause them to burst under the additional pressure. Steam

that is generated inside the cooling system can also damage radiators

with plastic end tanks.

9

Why to Replace/Rebuild the Engine?

Replacing an engine with a new, remanufactured engine can add years

to a vehicle’s life and save lakhs of rupees over what it might cost to

buy another vehicle. Repowering is what engine manufacturers call it.

Zero percent financing and factory rebates can make a new car or

truck seem very attractive. But when you add it all up, it is almost

always cheaper to keep an existing vehicle if it requires major repairs.

Replacing an engine is obviously a major repair that requires a sizable

investment in a vehicle. For some older vehicles, the cost of replacing

the engine may be more than the vehicle is worth. Yet many owners

will have the engine replaced anyway because they do not want to

trade vehicles or they owe too much on the vehicle to trade it.

An engine that is properly maintained with regular oil filter

changes, changing the spark plugs, timing belts and coolant at

specified intervals, etc., should last 100000 to 150000 miles or more.

But many engines are not properly maintained. Oil and filter changes

are put off too long. The coolant is never changed. Nobody

remembers to replace the timing belt. Consequently, after thousands

of miles of neglect, the engine falters or suffers a variety of fatal ills.

It starts to burn oil. It fouls spark plugs and misfires. It burns a valve.

It overheats. It blows a head gasket. The head cracks. The oil pressure

drops dangerously low. Warning lights come on. It makes rapping,

clattering, ticking noises. It is hard to start. It seizes up and refuses to

run.

10

When the engine finally replace the end of the road, a

painful choice has to be made: spend whatever it takes to fix or

replace the original engine, or get rid of the vehicle or buy another.

Either way it is going to cost money. A car dealer won’t give much for

a trade-in that has a bad engine. The only way to get rid of a car or

truck with a bad engine is to junk it or sell it as a mechanic’s special

or fixer-upper. Either way it won’t sell for much money.

11

To Replace or To Rebuild?

The first step in replacing an engine is to confirm the old engine is

beyond fixing or requires so much labor to repair that it is better to

replace it. Many internal problems can be required without having to

completely overhaul the engine – provided the rest of the engine is

still in relatively good condition. That includes replacing a blown head

gasket, a broken or rounded camshaft, a cracked piston, worn valve

guides, burnt or bent valves, a cracked head or even a spun bearing.

But if the block is cracked, can’t be repaired without major machine

work or has to be completely disassembled, the cost of parts and labor

may tip the scale in favor of replacing the engine.

Replacement options include a used engine from a salvage

yard (risky but usually the cheapest alternative), a remanufactured

engine (sort block or long block), or a new “crate” engine from the

original equipment manufacturer. Good used engines for many

vehicles are hard to find, and the salvage yard warranty rarely covers

installation labor. A safer bet is to replace the old engine with a new

or remanufactured engine that is backed by a performance warranty as

well as an installation labor warranty.

12

Engine Performance Upgrade

Another option to consider when replacing an engine is upgrading

performance. If more horsepower is wanted, various performance

modifications and add-ons may be included, such as a hotter camshaft,

higher compression pistons, a performance intake manifold, stoker

crankshaft, oversized pistons, or afterburner cylinder heads with larger

valves, etc.

Another option is to install to ready-to-run “crate” engine.

Many engine builders offer mild to wild performance engines that are

built to almost any specifications. Crate engines typically cost 20 to

25% less than custom built engines, and are available online and from

a variety of sources. The engine may be a long block with or without

valve covers and oil pan, or it may include an intake manifold, water

pump and carburetor or fuel injection system.

For street use, a stage 1 upgrade typically includes a hotter

cam, more compression, bigger valves and/or slightly modified heads,

and add 50 to 70 horsepower over the stock engine. A stage 2 upgrade

might bump up the horsepower 70 to 100 hp or more, while a stage 3

or 4 would be more of a serious performance engine.

If one is buying a performance engine, keep in mind that

more horsepower means more stress on the drivetrain and the cooling

system. Additional upgrades also may be needed to handle the extra

power such as a larger radiator, beefed up transmission clutch.

13

Choosing Crate Engines

The sky is the limit as to how much one can spend on a performance

crate engine. The price of a performance crate engine typically starts a

little higher than that of a stock replacement engine, or goes up

exponentially depending on how much horsepower and torque is

required. If one want a 603 cubic inch Chevy big block V8 that makes

850 plus horsepower, it’s only a matter of writing a bigger number on

a check. The large displacement, high horsepower custom-built

engines typically start around 6 lakhs rupees and go up from there.

An important point to keep in mind with respect to

performance engines is that durability and reliability are just as

important as cubic inches and raw horsepower. Forged pistons, rods

and steel crankshafts cost much more than their cast iron counterparts,

but are often necessary to provide the durability demanded in a racing

environment – or even a street engine that may be used occasionally

on a drag strip.

Many (but not all) performance crate engines are dyno

tested after they have been assembled. Dyno testing allows the engine

builder to make sure everything was put together correctly and the

engine has proper compression and oil pressure. It allows them to

control critical engine break-in process (which reduces warranty

problems). It also allows them to verify the engine’s power output.

The dyno sheet that comes with the engine shows its actual torque and

14

horsepower curves, which is much more credible than advertising

claims in a sales brochure.

15

EXPERIMENTAL WORK

List of Tools Required

1. Wrenches

2. Socket set

3. Allen and Torx bits

4. Assortment of pliers

5. Screw drivers

6. Torque wrench

7. Diagnostic equipment

8. Specialty tools

9. Repair manual

16

Engine Installation Tips / Precautions

Before rolling the engine hoist into place in the new or rebuilt motor,

some considerations are to be monitored before the engine is installed:

Check the motor mounts. Replace if they

are worn, loose or cracked. If he engine

has fluid-filled hydroelastic motor

mounts, check for leaks. Replacing same

with same is recommended if the mounts

are leaking to minimize vibration and

harshness.

Check the condition of the clutch or torque converter,

transmission, CV joints, etc., and make any repairs as needed.

Some items that will be mounted on the engine such as

manifold, brackets, accessories, spark plugs, oil filter,

sensors, etc. will probably be easier to install on the engine

while it is still out of the vehicle. Preassemble as much as you

can, then finish the rest of the items once the engine is in

place.

Install new belts and hoses (also, check automatic tensioners

and idler pulleys and replace as needed).

17

Figure 1 follow up steps for engine overhauling

Install new oxygen sensor(s). This is highly recommended on

high-mileage engines to guarantee proper fuel feedback

control, good fuel economy and emission compliance.

Install a new coolant temperature sensor and thermostat. This

also is highly recommended to reduce the risk of overheating

and possible engine damage.

Install new spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor

(if equipped). Platinum long-life spark plugs are

recommended.

Scan the computer for fault codes, fix any problems as

needed, and clear the code memory.

Check for any PCM flash updates that may be available from

the OEM and reflash the computer as needed.

Check for any engine-related technical service bulletins that

are out on the vehicle, and make any upgrades or changes

recommended.

18

Disassembling the Engine

(Methodology)

Engine disassembly is carried out in a sequence, which is mentioned

in the following text. In the sequence presented it is assumed that the

engine is out of the vehicle. Some of the operations of the procedure

are also applicable separately with the engine in the vehicle. During

the disassembly period engine should be mounted in a suitable engine

repair stand. If the engine repair stand isn’t available, disassembly

operations should be performed in a careful manner to prevent

accident and damage to engine parts.

Note If the engine is being disassembled because of possible valve

failure, check the valve tappet clearance before disassembly. Improper

valve clearance could be possible cause of valve failure, indicating a

need for frequent valve checks and adjustments.

1. Remove the starter motor, the engine front side mounting bracket

and the clutch housing the lower plate, and loosen the

transmission securing bolts after removing the radiator outlet pipe.

2. Take off the transmission from the cylinder block.

3. Remove the drain plug and drain out the engine oil.

4. Remove the clutch cover and clutch disc.

5. Remove the distributor assembly.

19

6. Remove the fuel pump.

Note When removing the fuel pump, engine oil in the distributor gear

case may come out. So waste or receiver is placed under the fuel

pump.

7. Take down the distributor case.

8. Take down the alternator.

9. Remove the alternator-mounting stay.

10. Ease out the water pump pulley.

11. Remove the crank pulley with special tools (flywheel holder).

12. Remove the outside cover on the timing belt.

13. Remove the timing belt tensioner after removing a part of the

tensioner spring from the water pump-securing bolt.

14. Remove the timing belt.

15. Remove the camshaft timing belt pulley, with special tools

(camshaft lock holder).

16. Similarly remove the crankshaft timing belt pulley.

17. After removing the pulley key, take out the timing belt guide.

18. Take down the timing belt inside cover.

19. Remove the alternator bracket.

20. Remove the water pump case.

21. Take off the exhaust manifold cover and the exhaust manifold.

22. Remove the oil filter with special tools (oil filter wrench).

23. Draw bypass hose from the intake manifold.

24. Take down the inlet manifold with the carburetor.

20

25. Remove the water inlet pipe.

26. Take off the cylinder head cover.

27. Loosen the valve adjustment screws fully. Leave the screws in

place.

28. Loosen the rocker arm shaft securing screws.

29. While drawing out the rocker arm shaft, separate the valve

rocker arms and the rocker arm springs.

30. Remove the camshaft thrust plate, and draw the camshaft out

towards the distributor gear case side.

31. Remove the cylinder head.

(i) Use the valve lifter and attachment to compress the valve

spring in order to free the valve cotter pieces for removal.

In this way, remove the valve spring and the valves.

(ii) Remove the valve stem oil seal from the valve guide and

then the valve spring seat.

Note do not reuse the oil seal once disassembled. Be sure to use a

new oil seal when assembling.

(iii) Using the valve guide remover, drive the valve guide out

from the combustion chamber side to the valve spring

side.

Note do not reuse the valve guide once disassembled. Be sure to use a

new valve guide (oversize) when assembling.

32. Remove the flywheel using flywheel holder.

33. Take down the oil pan.

34. Remove the oil pump strainer.

21

35. Remove the three connecting rod caps.

36. Install the guide hose over the threads of the rod bolts. This is to

prevent damage to bearing journal and the cylinder wall when

removing the connecting rod.

37. De-carbon the top of cylinder bore, before removing the piston

of from the cylinder.

38. Push the piston and the connecting rod assembly out through the

top of the cylinder bore.

Note

Before pushing the piston out, scribe the cylinder number on its

crown.

Be sure to identify each bearing cap for its connecting rod by

using the cylinder number. Set the cap and rod aside in

combination.

(i) From each piston, ease out the piston pin circlips.

(ii) Force the piston pin out.

39. Remove the oil pump case.

(i) Remove the oil pump gear plates and take out the inner and

outer gear.

40. Remove the oil seal housing.

41. Remove the crankshaft-bearing caps and take out the crankshaft.

22

Installing the Engine

When the engine is ready to be installed, carefully lower or raise it into position being careful to align the motor mounts, engine cradle and transmission. Maintain support until the engine is bolted into place.

1. Tighten all motor mounts, bell housing bolts, manifold bolts,

brackets, cradle bolts, etc. to specifications.

2. Make sure all hoses are properly routed (refer to the emissions

decal or a manual if you need help), and all hose clamps are

tight.

3. When reattaching wires, make sure the connectors are free from

corrosion and fit tightly (repair or replace as needed). Use

dielectric grease where needed to keep moisture out of

connectors. Make sure all wires are properly supported and

routed away from the exhaust manifolds and spark plug

wires.

4. When reattaching the throttle cable or linkage, don't forget the

return springs. Replace the springs if they are weak or

corroded.

5. Flush the radiator and change the coolant. Refill with a 50/50

mix of fresh antifreeze and distilled water. A long-life

antifreeze is recommended for maximum protection.

23

6. Flush the oil cooler (if equipped). If the original engine had a

bearing failure, replace the oil cooler to eliminate any risk of

a repeat failure due to metallic debris in the oil cooler or lines.

7. Install a new air filter, fuel filter and oil filter.

8. Don't forget to fill the oil pan with the proper amount of oil

(usually four quarts but may be more or less on some

engines). Check the dipstick after filling to make sure it reads

accurately. On overhead cam engines, 5W-30 oil is usually

recommended so the oil will reach the upper camshaft and

upper valve train components faster after start-up (especially

important during cold weather). Note: Some experts do not

recommend using a synthetic oil for the initial break-in, and

prefer to use a conventional motor oil.

9. Check battery charge and condition. The battery should be fully

charged before the engine is started. Also, make sure the

battery cables are clean and tight. And do not forget to check

engine ground straps.

10. Make sure you do not have any "leftover" parts.

24

RESULTS AND FINDINGS

This report presented complete methodology of assembling and

disassembling engine of a sub-compact sedan car. I introduced

information about the engine, various problems that a car owner faces

and their remedies/prevention and key safety points.

From the training it has been figured that-

Loss of coolant because of a coolant leak is probably the most

common cause of engine overheating. Possible leak points

include hoses, the radiator, heater core, water pump, thermostat

housing, freeze plugs, automatic transmission oil cooler,

cylinder head(s) and block.

A leaky head gasket can allow coolant t seep into the engine’s

cylinders or crankcase. Symptoms include a loss of coolant with

no visible external leaks, and white steam in the exhaust,

especially after restarting the engine when it has sit for a while.

Other causes for engine overheating due to cooling system

failure could be- overworking the engine, dragging brakes,

excessive exhaust backpressure, dirty radiator, slipping belt,

leaky water pump, etc.25

After the engine has been installed in the vehicle, it needs to

prime the oil system before first start-up. For a pan-mounted oil

pump driven by distributor, a priming tool or a long screw driver

bit in an electric drill was used to spin the pump and prime the

engine.

RemarksThe industrial training enhanced my practical knowledge. Most

importantly, I am oriented to the industrial scenario and its many

challenges and subtleties. The smooth functioning of an industry

depends to a large extent on the mutual cooperation among its

different wings. Nevertheless, I did enjoy the training to the fullest

and are sure that this training will help me in my future endeavors.

26

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Reference Books

Jain and Asthana, Automobile Engineering, Tata McGraw-Hill, New Delhi

Seiffert and Braess, Handbook of Automotive Engineering, SAE International,

2005

Shekhar, Hiamanshu, Aircraft and Automobile Propulsion - A Textbook, 2013

Website References

www.aa1car.com

www.tatamotors.com

www.mobiloil.com

27

Appendix

Technical Information - TATA Indigo eCS

Dimensions (mm)Length 3988Width 1620Height 1540Wheelbase 2450Ground Clearance 165   Kerb Weight(kg)Diesel CR4 BS4 1105-1110Diesel Tdi BS3 1085-1095Petrol MPFi BS4 1065-1070   EnginesDiesel CR4 - LS, LX, VX  

Type Common Rail CR4,16-Value, DOHC

Engine Capacity 1396ccMaximum Power 70PS @ 4000RPMMaximum Torque 140Nm @ 1800-

Indigo eCS Diesel TDi BS3 – LS, LX

Type Tdi, Turbocharged Diesel with Intercooler

Engine Capacity 1405ccMaximum Power 70PS @ 4500RPMMaximum Torque 135Nm @ 2500RPM      Seating Capacity Five

28

   

Transmission Type 5 Forward, 1 Reverse   

Suspension

Front Suspension Independent McPherson Strut with Coil Spring

Rear Suspension Independent 3-link McPherson Strut with Antiroll

Fuel TankCapacity 42 LitresTrunk capacity 380 Litres   Steering

Type Rack and Pinion with Collapsible Steering Column

Turning Radius 5.0 m   

Brakes

Type

Vacuum Assisted, Independent Dual Circuit, Diagonal Split Hydraulic Brakes through Tandem Master Cylinder

Front Brakes Ventilated DiscRear Brakes Drum   

TyresType RadialTyre Size 175/65 R 14

29