Successful Dyeing of Polyester-Elastane Blends With Dispersol and Palanil Dyes

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Successful dyeing of polyester/elastane blends withDispersol® and Palanil® dyes

Technical Information

EFT/TS 181

March 2000

Colorants

® = R eg is tere d t rade mark o f

BASF Aktiengese llscha ft



Successful dyeing of polyester/elastane blends

with Dispersol and Palanil dyes



Compact Elastane

2

Elastane fibres are:• widely used to improve fit a nd c omfort of underw ea r, sportsw ea r a nd

outerwear

• formed from a synthetic po lymer co ntaining a t lea st 85% by w eight ofse gm ented polyuretha ne

• genera lly ba sed on polyether soft segments

• hydrophob ic a nd ope n-structured w ith high a ffinity for dispe rse dyes

O = C = N - - CH2 - - N = C = O + HO — CH2 CH2 CH2 CH2 - O —n

OH

O = C = N N = C = O

hardsegment

hardsegment

+

Diamine



Polyester/Elastane Dyeing Problems

3

Dyeing polyes ter/ela s ta ne a t 130 ° C

P erma nent dra w ing o f ela sta ne fibre

Los s of stretch rec overy pow er

Elastane fibres have higher affinity for disperse dyes than dopolyes ter fibres

Heavy staining of elastane fibres

P oo r colour fas tness o f dye d po lyes ter/ela s ta ne fa brics

Careful choice of

• prepa ra tion chemica ls

• d yes

• dyeing proces s

• ma chinery w ith minimum tens ion

is es sentia l for prod ucing high q ua lity d yed fab rics



Compact Elastane - Preparation for dyeing

4

Polyester/Elastane Fabrics – Batchwise Preparation

Lufibrol MS D ca n be omitted if so ft wa ter is used

Stability of removed silicone oils emulsion is highest at pH 3-4

Elastane yarns are lubricated with a protective film of 2-5% silicone oil forefficient fabric construction

Efficient removal of silicone oils before dyeing is important to:

• reduce disperse d ye stain on ela stane f ibres

• reduc e risk of spotting a nd sta ining during dyeing• reduc e smo king during finishing

• reduce migra tion of disperse d yes during storag e of dyed fab rics

• Kiera lon MFB, used a t a cid pH, is a n efficient sc ouring s ystem for oilremoval



Compact Elastane

5

Disperse dyes dyed on polyester/elastane blends will.....

70 ° C 80 ° C 90 ° C 100 ° C 110 ° C 120 ° C 130 ° C30 min at

130 ° C

Polyester

Elastane

Elastane

Migra tion tes t:

30 minutes a t 130 ° C, pH 4.5

Elastane

Dispersol Yellow Brown C-VS 300

M&S C 4A (50 ° C ), rins ed only dye ings

Disp ersol Red C-VS 300

Dispersol Navy C-VS 300

Polyester

migrated dyebefore

migration

after

migration

...... preferentially dye the elastane fibre

...... migrate slowly from elastane to polyester

...... stain heavily in washing tests

Secondarycelluloseace tate(Dicel)

Bleached

unmercerised

cotton

Nylon 6.6Polyester(Tery lene )

Acrylic(Courtelle)

Woolworsted

S.D.C. MULTIFIBRETEST FABRIC

• very little dye migrate s from elas ta ne to polyester after 30 minutes a t 130 ° C in blank dyeb a th

• disperse dyes build-up preferentially on ela sta ne in a dyeb a th conta ining b oth polyester and elas tane fibres

• disperse d yes on elas tane have poor wet fas tness



Disperse Dye Stain on Elastane Fibres

6

Reduction clearing of dyed po lyes ter/ela s ta ne fa brics under a lka lineconditions is essential to:

• op timise the wet fas tness

• improve the s torag e fas tness

• optimise the shad e sta bility to post heat setting

Disperse dyes vary greatly in ease of removal from elastane

Dye Selection should a im to prod uce, a fter red uction c lea ring:

• little or no dispe rse d ye on ela sta ne (idea l)

• disperse d ye sta in on-tone with polyester dyeing (sec ond b est)

Dispers ol Yellow C -VS 300

P a la nil Yellow E-3G 200

Dispersol Crimson SF

Disp ersol Red C-VS 300

Dispersol Blue XF

P a lanil Da rk B lue 3RT-CF

Before

reduction

clearing

After

reduction

clearing

Reduction Clear3-4 g /l Hyd ro s ulfite C o nc . B AS F

4-8 ml/l c a us tic s od a 38° B é

0.5 g/l C yc la non® PE-Jet

20 minutes at 80 ° C



Compact Elastane

7

Dyeing temperature sho uld ta ke into a cc ount:

• source a nd stability of ela stane yarns

• construction of the fa bric

• dyeing ma chinery availa ble

• colour fas tness needed

Dyeing polyester/elastane fabrics at reduced dyeing temperatures

(e.g . 115 ° C ) w ill minimise loss of stretch rec overy pow er, but w ill res ult in:

• reduced colour fas tness

• reduced sha de reproducibility and more s had ing a dd itions

• poor covera ge of polyester yarn va ria tions (increa sed ba rré)

• reduced colour yield

• da nger of shade change on post heat set ting

Dyeing tempera ture for polyes ter/ela s ta ne is often a compromise



Dye and Process Selection

8

1. Dyeing at 115 °C

C ontrolled C olora tion of polyes ter/ela s ta ne blend s w ith go od s ha dereproducibility a t 115 ° C is poss ib le w ith:

Palanil E dyes pale to medium shades

Dispersol C-VS dye s medium to hea vy shad es

1.1 Controlled Coloration

On-tone build-up ......

Recipe 1

0.11 % P alanil Yellow E-3G 2000.11 % Pa lanil Red E-BF 2000.08 % P alanil Blue E-R 150

Recipe 2

1.69 % Dispersol Yellow B row n C-VS E0.21 % Dispersol Red C-VS 3000.67 % P a lanil Dark Blue 3RT-CF

70 ° C 80 ° C 90 ° C 100 ° C 110 ° C 115 ° C15 min

115 ° C

30 min

115 ° C

45 min

115 ° C

Recipe 1

Recipe 2

...... all lead to:

...... and stability to heat setting ......

E 0.9S treng th 113%

Hue 0.5 red der


Hue 0.2 yello wer

Best achievable Right -First-Time performance

• colour mea surements on the a bove dyeings



Compact Elastane - Dyeing at 115 °C

9

1.2 Colour fastness

Good washing to 50 °C washing and to perspiration can be achieved byeffic ient red uction c lea ring o f a ll sha de s a fter dye ing (see pa ges 10 and 11 for

full applica tion deta ils )


Bleached

unmercerised

cotton


Acrylic(Courtelle)

Woolworsted

S.D.C. MULTIFIBRE TEST FABRIC


Bleached

unmercerised

cotton


Acrylic(Courtelle)

Woolworsted


Olive0.23 % Pa lanil Yellow E-3G 2000.12 % Pa lanil Red E-BF 2000.10 % Pa lanil Blue E-R 150

Navy0.02 % Dispersol Yellow C-VS 3000.29 % Dispersol Yellow Brown C -VSE1.38 % Pa lanil Dark Blue 3RT-CF

Black 0.06 % Dispersol Yellow Brown C -VSE2.16 % Dispersol B lack C-VSE

Cherry0.47 % Dispersol Yellow Brown C -VSE0.39 % Dispersol Red C-VS 3000.02 % Pa lanil Dark Blue 3RT-CF

Olive

Navy

Black

Cherry

Olive

Navy

Black

Cherry

C06/B2S (50 °C)

Alkaline Perspiration (E04)

All dye ings hea t-set a t 190 ° C for 30 se co nds a fter red uction clea ring




10

1.3 Dyeing/clearing Processes

Pale/medium shades Palanil E dyes




11

Medium/heavy shades Dispersol C-VS dyes



Compact Elastane - Dyeing at 125-130 °C

12

2. Dyeing at 125-130 °C

C ontrolled C olora tion of polyes ter/ela s ta ne blend s w ith go od s ha dereprod ucibility a nd o ptimum w et fa s tness a t 125-130 ° C w ith:

Palanil E pale s hades

Disperso l C -VS med ium/hea vy sha de s

Dispersol XF, S F heavy shad es w ith highest w a sh fas tness

2.1 Controlled Coloration

On-tone build-up ......

Recipe 1

0.11 % P alanil Yellow E-3G 2000.11 % P alanil Red E-BF 2000.08 % P alanil Blue E-R 150

Recipe 2

1.69 % Dispersol Yellow B row n C-VS E0.21 % Dispersol Red C-VS 3000.67 % P alanil Dark Blue 3RT-CF

Recipe 3

3.43 % Dispersol Yellow Brown XF0.54 % Dispersol Rubine XFN0.77 % Dispersol Navy XF

70 ° C 80 ° C 90 ° C 100 ° C 110 ° C 120 ° C 130 ° C15 min

130 ° C

30 min

130 ° C

Recipe 1

Recipe 2

Recipe 3




13

98%

0.9 yellow er

99%

0.4 yellow er

100%

0.3 redder

100%

0.5 yellow erControl

103%

0.1 redder

103%0.3 yellow er

108%0.5 redder

112%0.4 redder

91%

0.4 yellow er

95%

0.01 redder

97%

0.04 redder

94%

0.2 yellow erControl

100%

0.02 yellower

102%0.4 redder

101%0.02 redder

103%0.3 redder

125 ° C

15 minutes 30 minutes 45 minutes

130 ° C

135 ° C

125 ° C


130 ° C

135 ° C

92%

1.1 redder

99%

0.3 redder

100%

0.2 redder

96%

0.6 redderControl

104%

0.2 yellow er

103%

0.3 redder

109%

0.2 yellower

113%

0.4 yellow er

125 ° C


130 ° C

135 ° C

...... with good time/temperature robustness ......

Recipe 1 Recipe 2

Recipe 3

...... all lead to:

...... and stability to heat setting ......

E 1.0

S treng th 114%Hue 0.3 yello w er

E 0.5

S treng th 101%Hue 0.1 yello wer


Hue 0.1 yello wer

Best achievable Right -First-Time performance




14

2.2 Colour Fastness

Optimum wet fastness can be achieved by efficient reduction clearing of allshades after dyeing (see pages 15, 16 and 17 for full application details)


Bleached

unmercerised

cotton


Acrylic(Courtelle)

Woolworsted


Olive0.23 % Pa lanil Yellow E-3G 2000.12 % Pa lanil Red E-BF 2000.10 % Pa lanil Blue E-R 150

Navy 20.30 % Dispersol Yellow Brown XF0.14 % Dispersol Rubine XFN1.54 % Dispersol Navy XF

Navy0.02 % Dispersol Yellow C-VS 3000.29 % Dispersol Yellow Brown C -VSE1.38 % Pa lanil Dark Blue 3RT-CF

Cherry 20.92 % Dispersol Yellow Brown XF0.54 % Dispersol Rubine XFN0.16 % Dispersol Crimson SF

Black 0.06 % Dispersol Yellow Brown C-VSE2.16 % Dispersol B lack C-VSE

Black 20.15 % Dispersol Yellow Brown XF0.10 % Dispersol Rubine XFN3.43 % Dispersol B lack XF

Cherry0.47 % Dispersol Yellow Brown C-VSE0.39 % Dispersol Red C-VS 3000.02 % Pa lanil Dark Blue 3RT-CF

C06/B2S (50 °C)

Alkaline Perspiration (E04)

Olive

Navy

Na vy 2

Black

Black 2

Cherry

Che rry 2

Olive

Navy

Na vy 2

Black

Black 2

Cherry

Che rry 2

All dye ings hea t-set a t 190 ° C for 30 se co nds a fter red uction clea ring




15

2.3 Dyeing/clearing procedures

Pale shades Palanil E dyes




16

Medium/heavy shades Dispersol C-VS dyes




17

Heavy shades with highest wash fastness Dispersol XF, SF dyes



Compact ElastaneCompact Elastane – Top Tips

For successful dyeing of polyester/elastane fabrics

• low es t dyeing tempera ture w hich prod uces level, well penetra ted d yeings

• low tension dyeing mac hinery• select dyes a nd chemica ls for Co ntrolled C olora tion

• effic ient pre-sc ouring to remo ve silicone o ils

• efficient reduc tion clea ring

• low est pos t heat-setting tempera ture w hich produces sta ble fabrics

Successful Dyeing of Polyester-Elastane Blends With Dispersol and Palanil Dyes

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