Starting sampling.....

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“Study on Sampling of a Garments Industry” 1.Introduction Sampling is one of the main processes in garment manufacturing and it plays vital role in attracting buyers and confirming the order, as the buyers generally places the order once satisfied with the quality and responsiveness of the sampling. It is the most crucial and most important stage of fashion merchandising. Sampling department makes samples on the basis of the specification and requirement by the buyer. Sampling in merchandising may be defined as "The concept, perception and ideas of fashion designer developed into product samples, in systematic stages of product development, with technical and quality clarity in a development." Though sampling is a difficult and time bound process, it will help the exporter to get the order from the buyer. Before placing any order to the factory, the buyer wants to know whether the factory is capable of producing the styles with the desired quality levels or not. The samples decide the ability of exporters to deal with any given style of garment. The buyer accesses the capability of exporter only with the help of Samples. If the samples are of good quality naturally the buyers will be willing to place the order to factory. Sampling also work as a bridge between the productions and marketing department, hence it has the influence of both marketing as well as production department. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and should be manufactured with optimum quality. 1 | Page

Transcript of Starting sampling.....

Page 1: Starting sampling.....

“Study on Sampling of a Garments Industry”

1.Introduction

Sampling is one of the main processes in garment manufacturing and it plays vital role in

attracting buyers and confirming the order, as the buyers generally places the order once satisfied

with the quality and responsiveness of the sampling. It is the most crucial and most important

stage of fashion merchandising. Sampling department makes samples on the basis of the

specification and requirement by the buyer. Sampling in merchandising may be defined as "The

concept, perception and ideas of fashion designer developed into product samples, in systematic

stages of product development, with technical and quality clarity in a development." Though

sampling is a difficult and time bound process, it will help the exporter to get the order from the

buyer. Before placing any order to the factory, the buyer wants to know whether the factory is

capable of producing the styles with the desired quality levels or not. The samples decide the

ability of exporters to deal with any given style of garment. The buyer accesses the capability of

exporter only with the help of Samples. If the samples are of good quality naturally the buyers

will be willing to place the order to factory. Sampling also work as a bridge between the

productions and marketing department, hence it has the influence of both marketing as well as

production department. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and should be

manufactured with optimum quality.

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2. LITERATURE REVIEW

2.1. Garments Sampling

               

Garment sampling is very much important process. It is a model of what the bulk production is

going to be done. The sampling is quite difficult but it will make the buyers to get attractiveness

towards the industry. Because the buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with

the quality of the samples. Garment sampling is a very important task in an apparel

manufacturing because it gives the satisfaction of the customer with respect to the product being

manufactured. This is in turn important because if the buyer is not satisfied by the samples, this

puts the following at risk:

Placement of the order

Acceptance of the some or the entire quantity of garments produced.

There may be a separate sampling department in a company. But as the merchandiser is the

person who is interacting with the buyers regarding samples and other requirements, this

sampling department will work under the guidance Also as the samples are to be made according

to the buyers’ price ranges and quality levels, merchandiser has to advise.

2.2. Purpose of Sampling

a. To allow the buyer to judge the production capabilities of the manufacturer.

b. To provide a means for making revisions in the bulk production process.

c. To let the manufacturer estimate the thread and fabric consumption, and develop cost

quotations.

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2.3 The Details Attached to the Garment Sample

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following

details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details of both, what the buyer has

demanded and what the supplier fabric/trim etc they have used.

Ref no.

Color

Fabric

Composition

Description

Quantity

Style no/ Size

Store

2.4 Sampling Process

The process of sample department varies continuously, and the development

process will covers a wide range of unique products from new fibers, fiber blends, new yarns,

fabric structures ,finishes and surface effects new technology and all types of made up products

such as woven , knit wear, hosiery, cut and sewn garments, household products, technical and

medical products.

There are different phases of sampling; the first phase covers the development of

the initial concept or design idea and getting the approval by the customer.

The second phase covers the process after getting acceptance of the first prototype

sample and carry out the functions of sourcing and ordering component, testing the product and

carry out trails once the finalized sample specifications has been drawn up.

The third and final phase includes a range of activities that are carried out before

large scale or bulk production capacity outside the producer/developers if this is needed.

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2.5 Sampling Types

We have to send many samples to buyers. They are

Proto samples or fit samples

Photo shoot samples

Salesmen samples or promotional samples

Size set samples

Pre-production samples

Online sample

Shipment sample

Counter samples or reference samples

A . Proto Samples or Fit Samples

These samples are done after getting the new order from the buyer. These samples

are needed to check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available similar

fabrics but in the actual measurements and specifications given from the buyer.

Some buyers may need these samples if they want to print the photos of

garments on packing box, hang tag, in showrooms,etc.,.

After sending the proto samples the buyers will conduct discussion over the

samples and they will access the content of the sample and give us comment and reviews.

B .Photoshoot Sample

In this category which deals mainly with the real fitting on garments.The

buyers will conduct photoshoot sessions with the samples we have sent. By this we can clearly

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get the fitting requirements and problems in the measurements.By doing this buyers can give us

comments with the photo attachments.

C .Salesman Sample

The buyer needs these samples for getting the orders from their customers.

If the buyer is having 7 salesmen in his office, then the buyer will ask us to make 7 samples in

each style.

The salesmen will book the orders from their customers, by showing these

samples. Buyer will place the order to us according to customer attractness towards the sample.

Sales samples are made with actual fabric and trims and accessories. Buyer

pays for salesman samples to the developer

D . Sizeset Samples

These sample are done after the salesman sample.In SMS we will sent samples in

one size only.Hence sizeset samples are are done to check the grading of all sizes are ok and the

measurements are quite good.

E . Counter Sample or Reference Sample

These are the sample which are made as same as the other samples.We will sent

samples to the buyer and keep one of the same sample for our reference.By getting acceptance from

the buyer we can proceed the work according to the reference sample we have with us.

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These samples are almost like approval samples. They have to be made in

actual production fabric with actual bulk trims. They will represent that the production will be

like these samples.

These samples are to be sent before starting the actual production. Hence

these samples are needed to be perfect in all manners. Buyer may check these samples for

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everything or anything. Some times, they may do wash test also. We should not get any remark

or comment. We have to get only ‘OK’ from the buyer.

G . Wash Sample

Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric after

washing of Denim or shirt washing program, hence either at size set stage or PP stage washing

sample is sent to buyer for approval and carry forward of washing program.If sample is not

approved or approved with comments, factory needs to submit 2nd sample to get approval.  After

feel assessment buyer may suggest the changes in washing program.

H . Online Sample

Once production is online, few pieces is taken out in the middle of the production.

Production pieces are sent to buyer as TOP sample. All buyers does not asked for

TOP sample. Purpose is to cross-check whether factory is following PP sample

specification or not.

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These samples are to be sent just before shipment. They should be sent in actual packing with

all labels, tags, etc. (Generally these samples will not be tested by buyer for anything). And

even if we get some comments from buyers like changes in price tag or changes in the

assortments we can adopt the changes in the process but its not the risk for the supplier.

2.6. Workflow of Sampling

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2.7 Meeting with Buyers

In this stage designer of a manufacturing house shows their creations, latest designs to buyers.

On other hand if buyer already had fixed design of a style and need few changes on it related to

fit, fabrics or trims they discuss those thing with the merchandiser of the manufacturing unit.

2.8 Development of Initial Samples for the Buyer

In this stage after receiving buyer’s concept or instructions on the new style, samples are made

with available fabrics and trims

2.9 Development of Fabric Sample, Bit Loom, Print and Embroidery Artwork

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Fabric is developed as per the buyer requirement. Fabric development means sourcing of

customer specific fabric with matching properties, dyed and finished for solid colors. For the

solid color lap dip approval is very important process. Until lap dip sample is approved

merchants re-submit lap dips. In case of yarn dyed fabrics merchants develop fabric sample with

specified design, stripes or checks. These fabric samples called as Bit Loom. Other approvals

such as print and embroidery artwork approval and color approval are done. It may be done later

stage at time of pre-production.

2.10 Costing of Garment (complete cost as well as manufacturing cost) 

Merchants prepare cost sheet with details cost break up such as raw material cost, manufacturing

cost, overheads and margin. Costing is very a critical stage. Because whether a company will get

order or not depends on their costing. If they garment cost is very high then manufacturer may

lose the order and on other hand if factory keep their cost low, they will not earn profit from the

order. Estimation of the garment cost should be done on data based.

3. SAMPLE MAKING PROCEDURE OF SOME BUYERS

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3.1. H & M buyer`s T-shirt Sample Making Procedure

Order If costing is in satisfactory level than the buyer will send the order sheet to the factory and will request to send sample of the ordered garments for approval. Here I present some copy of order sheet.

Supplier: padma group .

Mode of Delivery: Boat

Time of Delivery: End December

Style: JACOBSON

Composition: 95% cotton 5% elastane

Wash: Enzyme

Weight: 180/200 gsm

Srinkage: 4% maximum

Label: HOPE „N LIFE

Price: 3.00 USD/PC CIF

Pieces/box: 24 pieces

Total pieces: 1008 pieces

Total box: 42 boxes We won’t accept not assorted boxes.

a. Proto samples or fit samples

These samples are done after getting the new order from the buyer. These samples are needed to

check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available similar fabrics but in the

actual measurements and specifications given from the buyer.

Buyer`s given measurement chart:

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MEASUREMENT CHART: Style A

Size M 48/50 L 52/54 XL 56/58

A ½ chest 55 59 63

H ½ hem 55 59 63

H2 hem height 2 2 2

FF shoulder to shoulder pls adjust

F shoulder 13.5 14 14.5

L sleeve length 19 20 21

Z ½ armhole 24 25 26

Z1 ½ upper arm width 20 21 22

N ½ sleeve hem width 18 19 20

N2 sleeve hem height 2 2 2

P neck opening 19 19.5 20

P1 neck drop, back 2.5 3 3

P2 neck drop, front 11 11.5 12

rib height at neck 1.5 1.5 1.5

RL back length from HSP 73 75 77

Table No : 1

SKETCH: Style A

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Fig No : 1

Pattern making

The appearance and fit of a garment is highly dependent on each process. Patternmaking is one

of the earliest steps in the development of a garment. It is a craft that has evolved over the

centuries into a skilled technical process. Today, patternmaking tools have been carefully

tailored to quickly perform repetitive time-consuming tasks, allowing apparel companies to cater

to the fast paced world of fashion. Now a days ophisticated software programs are used for

pattern making.

Pattern grading is the scaling of a pattern to a different size by incrementing important points of

a pattern to smaller or bigger sizes.

Once a designer has completed a drawing of a garment, it is transformed into a sample pattern.

"Patternmaking" is the process of creating all the correctly sized pieces needed to make a

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complete garment. For many smaller manufacturers, pattern making is still done on paper

because the cost of computerized systems remains prohibitive

The patternmaker may use one of the following techniques to develop a sample pattern. We may

"manipulate" a new pattern by using geometric rules to modify or alter existing pattern pieces.

We may translate a design that has been "draped" and pinned on a dress form by converting the

shapes of the draped garment sections into paper pattern pieces. Alternatively, We may pin

pieces of muslin to a garment being copied and rub tailor's chalk over the seams and darts,

making a "muslin rub." The chalk markings are then used to create a flat paper pattern.

From this initial pattern, a sample garment is developed. The sample process allows a designer to

correct any problems inherent in translating a one-dimensional sketch into a two-dimensional

garment; it ensures that the designer's fabric yardage specifications are accurate; and it provides

an opportunity to spot potential production problems inherent in a design. Once the sample is

made, the manufacturer makes a small batch of duplicates for its sales force to test market. If

they sell well, the garment goes into larger volume production.

Although many firms still make patterns by hand, larger manufacturers make production patterns

on a computer using CAD software. Other systems have been developed that allow

patternmakers to create patterns manually by using a life-sized, sensitized table and a stylus

attached to a computer. As the patternmaker indicates points with the stylus, the pattern pieces

are automatically entered into the CAD system where they can immediately be accessed for

grading and marking. Although pattern making is becoming increasingly computerized,

patternmakers still must learn the manual method because making patterns manually develops an

advanced understanding of garment construction, knowledge that cannot yet be replaced by a

computer.

Cutting

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Cutting is separating of the garment in to its components and in a general form it is the

production process of separating (sectioning, curving, severing) a spread into garment parts that

are the precise size and shape of the pattern pieces on a marker. The cutting process may also

involve transferring marks and notches from the garment parts to assist operators in sewing,

chopping or sectioning a spread in to blocks of pieces goodsmany precede precision cutting of

individual patter shapes.This is done to allow for accurate matching of fabric design or easier

manufacturing of acutting knife.

 Once the marker is made, pattern pieces must be cut out of the specified fabric, a process called

"cutting." Currently, several cutting techniques exist, ranging from low- to high-tech. Although

scissors are used very rarely-only when working with very small batches or sensitive fabrics-

cutting continues to be done by hand, particularly in many lower volume establishments. Here,

cutters guide electric cutting machines around the perimeter of pattern pieces, cutting through the

fabric stack. An electric drill may be used to make pattern notches. The accuracy and efficiency

of this system is considerably less than in computerized cutting systems.

Computerized cutting systems are achieving more widespread use as technology costs decrease

and labor costs rise. These computer-driven automated cutters utilize vacuum technology to hold

stacks of fabric in place while cutting. Cutting blades are sharpened automatically based upon

the type of fabric being cut. Gerber Garment Technology manufactures one of the most

commonly used cutting systems. This technology has the advantage of being highly accurate and

fast, but does cost considerably more than other cutting techniques.

Factors involved in Cutting Fabrics

Factors affect the cutting process for fabrics are as follows:-

Nature of fabric (grain line shade, twill etc.)

Thickness of fabric.

Design characteristics of finished garment.

Machines and tables used.

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Sewing

After receive the garments components from cutting section, all the garments parts are joined

and sewn as sequentially. Obviously all the components are sewn respects on buyer requirement.

Sewing section is the most important department of a garment manufacturing industry. Sewing

machines of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the garments. Sequence of

types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operations.

Sewing sequence of t-shirt manufacturing process:

Number matching front 2 back part

Shoulder stitching

Neck rib truck

Neck rib sewing

Neck rib joins with body part

Neck top seam

Solder to solder back tip

Size label sewing

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Solder to solder back top seam

Sleeve tuck with body part (Sleeve mark point & solder mark point)

Sleeve joint with the body part

Side sewing and care label joint

Bottom hem tuck (at the end side)

Bottom hem sewing

Arm bottom hem joint

Inspection

Inspection

Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and missing stitches, improper

creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some of the sewing defects

which can affect the garment quality adversely.

Pressing/ Finishing

The next operations are those of finishing and/or decorating. Molding may be done to change the

finished surface of the garment by applying pressure, heat, moisture, or certain other

combination. Pressing, pleating and creasing are the basic molding processes. Creasing is mostly

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done before other finishing processes like that of stitching a cuff. Creasing is also done before

decorating the garment with something like a pocket, appliqués, embroidered emblems etc.

Vertical and form presses is automated machines. Perform simple pressing operations, such as

touching up wrinkles in knit shirts, around embroidery and snaps, and at difficult-to-reach places

on garments.

Send to buyer for approval.....

If any problem in sample then we make a second fit sample again in the same process but with actual fabric.

b. 2nd fit sample

MEASUREMENT CHART: Style A

Size M 48/50 L 52/54 XL 56/58

A ½ chest 55 59 63

H ½ hem 55 59 63

H2 hem height 2 2 2

FF shoulder to shoulder NEW 43.5 45 46.5

F shoulder 13.5 14 14.5

L sleeve length 19 20 21

Z ½ armhole 24 25 26

Z1 ½ upper arm width 20 21 22

N ½ sleeve hem width NEW 17 18 19

N2 sleeve hem height 2 2 2

P neck opening 19 19.5 20

P1 neck drop, back 2.5 3 3

P2 neck drop, front 11 11.5 12

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neck stretched min NEW 30 31 31

rib height at neck 1.5 1.5 1.5

RL back length from HSP 73 75 77

Table No : 2

SKETCH: Style A

Fig No: 2

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Pattern making:

Making pattern again with reversed size wise.

Cutting :

Cutting again pattern wise.

Sewing: Number matching front 2 back part (back on part on upper side)

Shoulder stitching (By over lock m/c)

Neck rib truck (By plain m/c)

Neck rib sewing by plain m/c

Neck rib joins with body part

Neck top seam

Solder to solder back tip

Size label sewing

Solder to solder back top seam

Sleeve tuck with body part (Sleeve mark point & solder mark point)

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Sleeve joint with the body part

Side sewing and care label joint

Bottom hem tuck (at the end side)

Bottom hem sewing

Arm bottom hem joint

Inspection

Inspection: Inspect Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and missing stitches, improper creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges.etc

After inspection pressing the sample and send it to buyer for approval.

If approved then we go for p.p. sample with actual fabric, actual size, actual accessories.

c. P.P sample

These samples are almost like approval samples. They have to be made in actual production

fabric with actual bulk trims. They will represent that the production will be like these samples.

Cutting as 2nd fit pattern wise ↓

Sewing

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Pre-Production Inspection

This is done before production starts. It is done to crosscheck for final verification of Bulk fabric

and trims materials, styling cutting way, manufacturing details and workmanship of the garment

or pre-production sample as per the customer requirement.

Once pre-production (PP) sample is approved (also called sealer sample) and most of the trims are

sourced, merchants or production planning department conduct pre-production meeting with production

team, quality team and sourcing team. All important comments, procedures to be followed, dos and don’ts

are discussed. Scheduling of PCD (planned cut date) and shipment date is announced to all teams.

d. Photo sample

These samples are needed to check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in

available similar fabrics but in the actual measurements and specifications.

Some buyers may need these samples if they want to print the photos of garments on photo

inlays, packing box, hang tag, etc. These samples may be needed for local advertisement or

buyer’s promotional occasions.

In any case, the samples will be worn by the highly paid models. The buyers will arrange the

photo shoot session, by spending huge money to the advertising agencies. So the buyers will

need these samples strictly on time. If they don’t get samples on time, the buyers will have to pay

more compensation to the advertising agencies and models.

Buyers will ask us to make the photo samples according to the intended model’s body fit. So it is

important to strictly adhere to these measurements. Buyer may ask these samples to send either

from production or before starting production.

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Fig No : 3

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Bulk production

Production Pattern: Its wise to make a production sample that will be hanged out in front of

every labor that are recruited to make this clothing eventually.

Grading: Grading is done in order to grade various sizes of garment in separate place so that it

would be easier to inspection and maintain the export works at last.

Marker Making: Market making is the process to sketch on fabric before cutting it. Market is

to be in standard size required by the buyers.

Spreading: After making a market; we have to spread the whole fabric over the spreading table

in order to put Marker and pattern over it.

Cutting: After successfully spread the fabric and putting all the marks and sketch by the

marker; this is the time to cut the fabrics according to design.

Shorting & Bundling: Some shorting task is done in order to list the same number of parts in

a separate place.

Sewing & Assembling: Each of the parts of a clothing should be sewed or assembled in order to make

a complete apparel that are wearable.

e. Production Samples

These samples are to be sent before shipment to get the buyer’s confirmation for shipment.

Hence these samples are needed to be perfect in all manners. Buyer may check these samples for

everything or anything. Some times, they may do wash test also. We should not get any remark

or comment. We have to get only ‘OK’ from the buyer. Then only we can ship the goods and we

can be sure of getting payment. So these samples are to be sent with more and more care.

Inspection: In this step of garment manufacturing process each of the complete apparel or

garment is to be checked and recheked. If any faults is found; then the whole process should be

repeated.

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Pressing or Finishing: After making an apparel it is to be pressed by the Compressed Machine

in order to bring it in bale form for export.

Packing:  After making a bale of these garment clothing; Packing is done!

Then its redy for delivery.

f. Shipment Samples

These samples are to be sent after shipment. They should be sent in actual packing with all

labels, tags, etc. (Generally these samples will not be tested by buyer for anything. And even if

we get some comments from buyers, we can save ourselves by saying that these samples were

sent from the left over garments after the shipment; hence there might be some mistakes. If we

expect any comments in these samples, it is better to inform the buyer during sending these

samples).

3.2. Prenatal buyer`s Ladies t- shirt Sample making procedure

OrderIf costing is in satisfactory level than the buyer will send the order sheet to the factory and will request to send sample of the ordered garments for approval. Here I present some copy of order sheet.

Buyer:Prenatal S.P.A

P/I No.-iwl/GB0198/2014

Article:s407ts344jj00s

Department :PNT

Fabrication:100% cotton 180 GSM

Description:Ladies (3Yrs – 8 yrs) T-shirt

Supplier: Impress-newtex composite textile ltd.

Quantity:17,185 pcs

Delivery:30-1-2014

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a. Proto samples or fit samples

These samples are done after getting the new order from the buyer. These samples are needed to

check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available similar fabrics but in the

actual measurements and specifications given from the buyer.

Buyer`s given measurement chart:

86/92 98/104 110/116

Sl no Measurement points Tolerance in cm

1 ½ Chest width +/- 1.0 30.5 32 33.52 Measurement point for waist

from HSP22.0 24.0 26.0

3 ½ Waist belt +/- 1.0 28.0 30.0 31.5

4a ½ Hem Width +/- 1.0 31.0 33.0 35.04b ½ Width above hem +/- 1.0

5a Shoulder Width +/- 1.5 5.5 6.0 6.5

5b Shoulder point to point Shoulder point

+/- 1.0 23.0 24.5 26.0

6 Sleeve length from Shoulder point

+/- 1.0 9.5 10.5 11.5

7 ½ Sleeve hem Width +/- 0.5 9.5 10.0 10.58 Arm hole Length +/- 1.0 13.0 14.0 15.09 ½ Upper arm Width +/- 1.0

10a Neck Width +/- 1.0 13.0 13.5 14.0

10b Minimum Size ½ neck Stretched

+6.0/-0.0 27.0 27.5 28.0

11 Neck drop front +/- 0.5 6.5 7.0 7.5

12 Neck drop back +/- 0.5 2.5 2.5 2.5

13 Length CB +/- 1.0

14 Back length from HPS +/- 1.0 33.0 37.0 41.0

15 Collar length at CB +/- 0.3 1.0 1.0 1.016 Collar length +/- 0.3

Table No : 3

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Pattern making

Pattern grading is the scaling of a pattern to a different size by incrementing important points of a pattern to smaller or bigger sizes.

Once a designer has completed a drawing of a garment, it is transformed into a sample pattern. .

Photo no : 1

Cutting

Cutting blades are sharpened automatically based upon the type of fabric being cut. Gerber

Garment Technology manufactures one of the most commonly used cutting systems. This

technology has the advantage of being highly accurate and fast, but does cost considerably more

than other cutting techniques.

scissors are used for cutting fabric in sample section.first we set up pattern over the fabric and

cut fabric pattern wise.

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Sewing

After receive the garments components from cutting section, all the garments parts are joined and sewn as sequentially. Obviously all the components are sewn respects on buyer requirement.

Wing sequence of ladies t-shirt manufacturing process

Attach Interlining by heat

Photo no : 2

Loop Attach by Plain Machine

Photo no : 3↓

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Neck Piping by Over Lock

Photo no : 4↓

Roiling by Plain machine

Photo no : 5

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Maching back and front Part

Photo no : 6↓

Shoulder Join by Over Lock

Photo no : 7↓

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Neck Top Seam by flat Lock

Photo no : 8↓

Tuck by Plain Machine

Photo no : 9↓

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Sleeve gathering by Plain Machine

Photo no : 10↓

Sleeve Hem by flat lock

Photo no : 11↓

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Sleeve Join by Over Lock machine

Photo no : 12

Sleeve Tuck by plain machine

Photo no : 13↓

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Side & Level Over Lock machine

Photo no : 14↓

Sleeve Tuck Plain machine

Photo no : 15↓

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Bottom Hem Plain machine

Photo no : 16

Button Hole Hole machine

Photo no : 17↓

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Button Attach by button attaching machine

Photo no : 18

Inspection

Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and missing stitches, improper

creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some of the sewing defects

which can affect the garment quality adversely.

Photo no : 19

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Pressing/ Finishing:

The next operations are those of finishing and/or decorating. Send to buyer for approval. If any

problem in sample then we make a second fit sample again in the same process but with actual

fabric.

b. S.S. Sample

MEASUREMENT CHART: Style A

Size M 48/50 L 52/54 XL 56/58

A ½ chest 55 59 63

H ½ hem 55 59 63

H2 hem height 2 2 2

FF shoulder to shoulder NEW 43.5 45 46.5

F shoulder 13.5 14 14.5

L sleeve length 19 20 21

Z ½ armhole 24 25 26

Z1 ½ upper arm width 20 21 22

N ½ sleeve hem width NEW 17 18 19

N2 sleeve hem height 2 2 2

P neck opening 19 19.5 20

P1 neck drop, back 2.5 3 3

P2 neck drop, front 11 11.5 12

neck stretched min NEW 30 31 31

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rib height at neck 1.5 1.5 1.5

RL back length from HSP 73 75 77

Pattern making:

Making pattern again with reversed size wise.

Cutting :

Cutting again pattern wise.

Sewing:

Attach Interlining by heat

Loop Attach by Plain Machine

Neck Piping by Over Lock

Roiling by Plain machine

Machine back and front Part

Shoulder Join by Over Lock

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Neck Top Seam by flat Lock

Tuck by Plain Machine

Sleeve gathering by Plain Machine

Sleeve Hem by flat lock

Sleeve Join by Over Lock machine

Sleeve Tuck by plain machine

Side & Level Over Lock machine

Sleeve Tuck Plain machine

Bottom Hem Plain machine

Button Hole Hole machine

Button Attach by button attaching machine

Inspection: Inspect Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and

missing stitches, improper creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges.etc

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After inspection pressing the sample and send it to buyer for approval.If approved then we go for

p.p. sample with actual fabric, actual size, actual accessories.

c. P.P sample

These samples are almost like approval samples. They have to be made in actual production

fabric with actual bulk trims. They will represent that the production will be like these samples.

Cutting as s.s. sample pattern wise ↓

Sewing

Pre-Production Inspection: This is done before production starts. It is done as per the customer requirement.

d. Photo sample

Buyers will ask us to make the photo samples according to the intended model’s body fit.

Bulk production:

Production Pattern

Grading

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Marker Making

Spreading

Cutting

Shorting & Bundling

Sewing & Assembling

Production samples

InspectionPressing or Finishing

Packing

Shipment samples

Shipment

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3.3 Kappa buyer`s Jacket Sample making procedure

OrderIf costing is in satisfactory level than the buyer will send the order sheet to the factory and will

request to send sample of the ordered garments for approval. Here I present some copy of order

sheet.

Buyer:Prenatal

Department :PNT

Style no.:0911982

Fabrication:100% pes

Weight:700 gsm

Supplier: Impress-newtex composite textile ltd.

Quantity:17,185 pcs

Delivery:30-1-2014

Size range s- XL

a. Proto samples or fit samples

These samples are done after getting the new order from the buyer. These samples are needed to

check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available similar fabrics but in the

actual measurements and specifications given from the buyer.

Buyer`s given measurement chart:

S M L XL

A Length from HSP 68 70 72 74

B ½ chest width(2cm from armhole)

47 49 51 53

C ½ waist 47 43 45 47

D ½ bottom 45 47 49 51

E Armhole(STRAIGHT) 20 21 22 23

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F Sleeve length from shoulder 62.5 63.5 64.5 65.5

G ½ muscle width 16.5 17.5 18.5 19.5

H ½ sleeve opening 10 10.5 11 11.5

I Shoulder total 40 42 44 46

J Neck width 20.5 21 21.5 22

K Collar height in CB 9 9 9 9

Table No: 3

Pattern making

Pattern grading is the scaling of a pattern to a different size by incrementing important points of

a pattern to smaller or bigger sizes. Once a designer has completed a drawing of a garment, it is

transformed into a sample pattern.

Cutting

Cutting blades are sharpened automatically based upon the type of fabric being cut. Gerber

Garment Technology manufactures one of the most commonly used cutting systems. This

technology has the advantage of being highly accurate and fast, but does cost considerably more

than other cutting techniques.

scissors are used for cutting fabric in sample section.first we set up pattern over the fabric and

cut fabric pattern wise.

Sewing

After receive the garments components from cutting section, all the garments parts are joined and sewn as sequentially. Obviously all the components are sewn respects on buyer requirement.

Wing sequence of jacket manufacturing process

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Rib top sein by flat lock m/c

Pocket & rib joint by over lock m/c

Pocket join by plain m/c

Shoulder join by over lock m/c

Shoulder top sean by Flat lock m/c

Sleeve join by over lock m/c

Arm hole top stitch by Flat lock m/c

Side join by over lock m/c

Fasing by over lock m/c

Neck join by over lock m/c

Button join by over lock m/c

Fasing tuck by plain m/c

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Buton top sean by Flat lock m/c

Neck Piping by Flat lock m/c

Level top sean by plain m/c

Cuff make by plain m/c

Cuff join by over lock m/c

Cuff top sean by Flat lock m/c

Jipper join by plain m/c

Fasing join by plain m/c

Shoulder tuck by plain m/c

Fasing top sein by plain m/c

Zipper top sein by plain m/c

Collar top sein by Flat lock m/c

Inspection

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Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and missing stitches, improper

creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some of the sewing defects

which can affect the garment quality adversely.

Pressing/ Finishing

The next operations are those of finishing and/or decorating. Send to buyer for approval. If any

problem in sample then we make a second fit sample again in the same process but with actual

fabric.

b. S.S sample

S M L XL

A Length from HSP 68 70 72 74

B ½ chest width(2cm from armhole)

47 49 51 53

C ½ waist 47 43 45 47

D ½ bottom 46 48 50 53

E Armhole(STRAIGHT) 21 22 23 24

F Sleeve length from shoulder 62.5 63.5 64.5 65.5

G ½ muscle width 16.5 17.5 18.5 19.5

H ½ sleeve opening 10 10.5 11 11.5

I Shoulder total 40 42 44 46

J Neck width 20.5 21 21.5 22

K Collar height in CB 9 9 9 9

Table No : 4

Pattern making:

Making pattern again with reversed size wise.

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Cutting :

Cutting again pattern wise.

Sewing:

Attach Interlining by heat

Loop Attach by Plain Machine

Neck Piping by Over Lock

Roiling by Plain machine

Machine back and front Part

Shoulder Join by Over Lock

Neck Top Seam by flat Lock

Tuck by Plain Machine

Sleeve gathering by Plain Machine

Sleeve Hem by flat lock

Sleeve Join by Over Lock machine

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Sleeve Tuck by plain machine

Side & Level Over Lock machine

Sleeve Tuck Plain machine

Bottom Hem Plain machine

Button Hole Hole machine

Button Attach by button attaching machine

Inspection: Inspect Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and

missing stitches, improper creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges.etc

After inspection pressing the sample and send it to buyer for approval. If approved then we go

for p.p. sample with actual fabric, actual size, actual accessories.

c. P.p. sample

Cutting as s.s. sample pattern wise ↓

Sewing

Pre-Production Inspection: This is done before production starts. It is done as per the customer requirement.

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d. Photo sample

Buyers will ask us to make the photo samples according to the intended model’s body fit.

Bulk production

Production Pattern

Grading

Marker Making

Spreading

Cutting

Shorting & Bundling

Sewing & Assembling

Production samples

InspectionPressing or Finishing

Packing

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Shipment samples

Shipment

3.4 CNA buyer`s Trouser Sample making procedure

OrderIf costing is in satisfactory level than the buyer will send the order sheet to the factory and will

request to send sample of the ordered garments for approval. Here I present some copy of order

sheet.

Buyer:Prenatal

Season:FW 2014

Article type:Articolo Basico

Sample size:5/6 A

Theme:Basic

Color:890 INDIA INK

Supplier: Impress-newtex composite textile ltd.

Quantity:17,185 pcs

Delivery:30-1-2014

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a. Proto samples or fit samples

These samples are done after getting the new order from the buyer. These samples are needed to

check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available similar fabrics but in the

actual measurements and specifications given from the buyer.

Buyer`s given measurement chart:

POM Description 102 108 116 122 128

C Waist taken Relaxed 23.50 24.50 25.50 26.50 27.50

D Hip 29 30.20 31.40 32.60 33.80

E Bottom hem 11 11.40 11.80 12.20 12.60

H Thing width 17.10 18.10 19.10 20.10 21.10

O LENGTH 54.70 59.40 64.10 68.80 73.50

P LENGTH 40.30 44.40 48.50 52.60 56.70

Q FRONT CROTCH 17.20 18.10 19 19.90 20.80

R BRONT CROTCH 22.70 23.70 24.70 25.70 26.70

Table No : 4

Pattern making

Pattern grading is the scaling of a pattern to a different size by incrementing important points of

a pattern to smaller or bigger sizes. Once a designer has completed a drawing of a garment, it is

transformed into a sample pattern.

Cutting

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Cutting blades are sharpened automatically based upon the type of fabric being cut. Gerber

Garment Technology manufactures one of the most commonly used cutting systems. This

technology has the advantage of being highly accurate and fast, but does cost considerably more

than other cutting techniques.

scissors are used for cutting fabric in sample section.first we set up pattern over the fabric and

cut fabric pattern wise.

Sewing

After receive the garments components from cutting section, all the garments parts are joined and sewn as sequentially. Obviously all the components are sewn respects on buyer requirement.

Wing sequence of trouser manufacturing process

Elastic tuck by plain M/C

Front Rise by over lock m/c

Back rise and Level Joint by Over lock m/c

Side Seam joint by over lock m/c

Elastic joint over lock m/c

In seam joint by Over lock m/c

Elastic tuck and main level by flat lock m/c

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Top seam by flat lock

Bottom hem by flat lock m/c

Back rise and front rise tuck plain M/C

Inspection

Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and missing stitches, improper

creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some of the sewing defects

which can affect the garment quality adversely.

Pressing/ Finishing

The next operations are those of finishing and/or decorating. Send to buyer for approval. If any

problem in sample then we make a second fit sample again in the same process but with actual

fabric.

b. S.S Sample:

POM Description 102 108 116 122 128

C Waist taken Relaxed 23.50 24.50 25.50 26.50 27.50

D Hip 29 30.20 31.40 32.60 33.80

E Bottom hem 11 11.40 11.80 12.20 12.60

H Thing width 18 19.10 20.5 21 22

O LENGTH 54.70 59.40 64.10 68.80 73.50

P LENGTH 40.30 44.40 48.50 52.60 56.70

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Q FRONT CROTCH 17.20 18.10 19 19.90 20.80

R BACK CROTCH 22.70 23.70 24.70 25.70 26.70

Fig No : 5

Pattern making:

Making pattern again with reversed size wise.

Cutting :

Cutting again pattern wise.

Sewing:

Elastic tuck by plain M/C

Front Rise by over lock m/c

Back rise and Level Joint by Over lock m/c

Side Seam joint by over lock m/c

Elastic joint over lock m/c

In seam joint by Over lock m/c

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Elastic tuck and main level by flat lock m/c

Top seam by flat lock

Bottom hem by flat lock m/c

Back rise and front rise tuck plain M/C

Inspection: Inspect Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and

missing stitches, improper creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges.etc

After inspection pressing the sample and send it to buyer for approval. If approved then we go

for p.p. sample with actual fabric, actual size, actual accessories.

c. P.p. sample

Cutting as s.s. sample pattern wise

Sewing

Pre-Production Inspection: This is done before production starts. It is done as per the customer requirement.

d. Photo sample

Buyers will ask us to make the photo samples according to the intended model’s body fit.

Bulk production

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Production Pattern

Grading

Marker Making

Spreading

Cutting

Shorting & Bundling

Sewing & Assembling

Production samples

InspectionPressing or Finishing

Packing

Shipment samples

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Shipment

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4. DATA ANALYSIS AND DISCUSSION

Several people and departments are invloved in sampling process.They are: merchandising

department, sampling/ product development team, trim and fabric store, pattern making

department, quality assurance team, dispatch department and etc.

Buyer assesses the sample and gives the feed back within 5 - 7 days to factory with respect to

sample. Feedback from the buyer is 3 types i.e. accepted, rejected, and accepted with comments.

The rejection of sample may be due to following reasons: There could be one or more reasons

for the sample rejection from buyer, these are: sample made out of tolerance, incorrect

construction, fabric quality may not up to mark, incorrect packaging, incorrect size submission,

frequent change in style and more.

When we work with some buyers continuously, we will have to keep on sending samples to them

very often. Whenever they have enquiries, buyer may need samples. Buyers may like to see the

garments in a new fabric. For one enquiry, they may need samples in different fabrics to choose

from. If they want to develop new style in new fabric, then also we will have to send these

samples.

We may have to spend too much on these samples. But these samples are inevitably important to

develop business. Some times, even the buyer is not so confident of some enquiries, if our

samples are good and attractive at reasonable prices, they will bring orders to us.

Also we will have to send samples to the newly contacted buyers to show our workmanship,

product range, quality standards and price level. These samples should be sent so that they would

attract the buyers.

So it is better for a company to have a separate sampling department so that they can create new

styles in new fabrics to impress the buyers.

We have to send many samples to buyers. They are

Salesmen samples or promotional samples

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Proto samples or fit samples

Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples

Wash test samples

Photo samples

Fashion show samples

Pre-production samples

Production samples

Shipment samples

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5. CONCLUSION

Sampling is the heart of any export order processing. The future of any style purely depends on

buyer and factory which are adding value to the samples. So it is very important to understand

the sample development process to control quality and costs in the initial stage or in the sampling

development. Merchandiser plays the central role in sampling process as, the only person

between the buyer and factory who understands the buyer specification, technical details and

time line of sampling. The process of sampling is about the eventual satisfaction of specific

needs. It is about products the company can make or out-source profitably for which there is a

market demand. Sampling is the best way to place an order. The purpose of sampling is not only

to get bulk order and also it gives some additional benefits to the exporters. The use of

technology, computer based designing, as well as innovation and creativitiy are important tools

in driving apparel sampling.

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6. REFERENCES

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/03/process-flow-chart-of-garments-sample.html

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/02/process-sequence-of-garments.html

http://www.textileschool.com/School/Apparel/Sampling.aspx

http://gulnazahmad.hubpages.com/hub/A-Step-by-Step-of-Garment-Manufacturing

Factory merchandiser hand note

Garments Technology book

Supervisor Hand Note

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