Stamped Slab Vesselwith Handle(s)

Create a paper template where you plan how you will use the stamps you have created. It will indicate the height and width of the cylinder. Avoid putting a design in the areas indicated by the orange marker scribble. Getting the design too close to the edges will create problems on the rim or base. You will also need to leave space for the “overlapping” seam when you join the sides.

Roll a slab big enough to cut out template. Trace over the design to imprint it slightly into the clay slab. Use a needle tool to cut out the slab. Slab should be about ¼ to 3/8 inch thick.

Use stamps where you have planned. Be sure to rock the stamp slightly back and forth from side to side and corner to get a good impression. (practice on other clay). You can enhance your design with other texture tools after stamping. Smooth the edge that will be the rim of the cylinder. Be sure to smooth it on both sides of slab.

Score the ends on the edges and create slip from the existing clay. Be sure to use enough water to create a sticky “velcro” surface. Don’t forget to turn the slab over when you do the second side.

Match the side seams up and then put the cylinder up vertically. You will be surprised to see how sturdy the form is once it is up in a cylinder. If you have weak places you may need to compress the form using both hands and cupping them around the form applying even pressure. Be careful not to push too hard when you are joining the walls or you will weaken the wall right next to where it is double.

You can smooth the seam or create a decorative joint using a stamp or other tool. Again, be careful you do not weaken the wall where it is not double.

Roll a slab big enough to cut out a bottom for your cylinder. Place the cylinder on top of the slab and cut out with a needle tool. Remove the excess clay. (be sure to spray the excess and put it back in the clay bag right away so it doesn’t dry out!)

Turn over the form (be sure you are working on a clean surface with no clay “boogies”) and carefully remove the bottom. If it will not come off reinvert the form and use a small rollig pin or other tool to gently push the bottom down while you lift the cylinder. Place the bottom next to the form and notice how it “fits”. On this example there is a slight bump that matches the seam in the wall

If the wall seems to weak at the bottom (too thin) invert the cylinder so it is upright and tap it slightly on a clean surface to slightly widen the wall surface where it joins to the bottom.

Score and create slip on both the bottom of the cylinder and the edge of the bottom. Make sure you get it good and “gooey”!

We don’t want those vessels to leak do we?

Put bottom on to cylinder, matching up direction so it “fits”.

Apply pressure where the wall is directly under the bottom. (not center)

When bottom is securely on form smooth where the attachment is seen.

Lastly, invert the form right side up & give it a little “tap on a smooth clean surface

Use the eraser end of a pencil, or the rounded end of a paintbrush to clean up the seam on the interior. (or reach in with your finger if the form is big enough. . .but don’t stretch it and crack it!)

Now your lovely form is ready for the application of a handle!

Important attributes of handles: size, shape, and surface treatment. Placement on the vessel should be reflective of the form and the design. Special care should be given to ensure strength where the handle joins to the form. The inside shape of the handle (negative space) should be purposeful.

The finished glazed cups show how choices in color application enhance the stamped designs and give definition to the interior and exterior of the forms.