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Sewn Products Machinery and Equipments Garment Analysis: “JUMPSUIT” Presented By: Anshika Gambhir (04) Prerna Teotia (16) Nilesh Nishant (17) Rajiv Ranjan () Saima Tabassum() Vibhanshu Srivastava (31)

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Sewn Products Machinery and EquipmentsGarment Analysis: JUMPSUIT

Presented By:Anshika Gambhir (04)Prerna Teotia (16)Nilesh Nishant (17)Rajiv Ranjan ()Saima Tabassum()Vibhanshu Srivastava (31)

INTRODUCTION

Jumpsuit is a special type of a single piece garment, which has an unbroken line running from the neck to the feet and can be flattering on different body shapes.

193519501966197719811992

2008

Evolution of JumpsuitApplication of Jumpsuits Pilots and driversAviatorsandastronauts, who sometimes wear insulated,fire-retardantjumpsuits orflight suitswhere other types of clothing can potentially float or flap about inzero gravity or duringhigh-G manoeuvres.Drivers inmotor racing , who wear jumpsuits for protection against fire and leather suits for abrasion.SportspersonsSkiers , who wear insulated jumpsuits orski suitsto protect themselves from cold (especially after falling or tumbling in snow).Skydivers, who wear technical jumpsuits as main sport equipment for today's sport skydiving.Manual labourersThe jumpsuit's simple one-piece design also makes it a practical garment for tradesmen, such as cleaners,auto mechanics andplumbers, who often wear looser-fitting jumpsuits.Institutions The jumpsuit has sometimes been mandated as an institutionaluniform, as it can be a unisex garment and can accommodate a wide range of body shapes.Small children A simple-to-launder one-piece garment can be especially convenient for parents to dress small childrenFashion In the UK, the wordonesie has come to describe casual jumpsuits (to be used as loungewear or pyjamas).Op#Operation DescriptionStitch Type, DiagramSeam TypeMachine UsedDeskillng Device1Sewing the dartsLock Stitch (301)Plain Seam (Dart)Single Needle Lock Stitch_2Sew front fly to right front to make a concealed placket (Overlap)Lock Stitch (301)

Single Needle Lock Stitch

Operational Breakdown3Fold left front edgeLock Stitch (301)Double FoldSingle Needle Lock StitchFolders4Sew two parts of the flap together for the pocketLock Stitch (301)Plain SeamSingle Needle Lock Stitch

5Turn inside out and make a top stitchLock Stitch (301)

Top Stitch SNLS6Serge the raw edges of the pocket flapOver Lock (504)Sergeing Over Lock 7Attach zipper to the strapsLock Stitch (301)Lapped Seam 1SNLS with zipper footer8Attach pocket flap to the front panel along with the strapsLock Stitch (301)Lapped Seam 1SNLS9Sew three EpauletsLock Stitch (301)Plain SeamSNLS10Turn inside out and make top stitchLock Stitch (301)

Top StitchSNLS11Attach Yoke to Back along with one Epaulet at the center Lock Stitch Sandwich SeamSNLS12Join Shoulders to the YokeLock Stitch (301)Sandwich SeamSNLS13Sew side seams and sergeLock Stitch (301) + Over Lock (504)Plain Seam with Over Lock finishSNLS, Over Lock5 thread Safety Stitch (516)14Attach the bias tape at the armholes along with one Epaulet at each shoulder topLock Stitch (301)Double Bound seam finishSNLS915Attach the two parts of the collarLock Stitch (301)Pain SeamSNLS16Tape on collar?Lock Stitch (301)Plain SeamSNLSDNLS17Turn and make Top Stitch Lock Stitch (301)Top Stitch SNLS18Attach the CollarLock Stitch (301)Double BoundSNLS_19Buttons attachmentHand Stitch (202)_ManualButton Attaching machine20Buttons hole304_Button hole machineButtonholer21Sew both parts of both the cross pocketsLock Stitch (301) + Over Lock (504)Plain seam followed by Over Lock finishSNLS + Over Lock5 Thread Safety Stitch (516)22Attach the pocket facing with the front panel of lower pants in the shape required(make it for both sides)Lock Stitch(301) Plain seamSNLS_ 23Invert the pocket bag inside and make a top stitch (make it for both sides)Lock Stitch(301)Top StitchSNLS_Lower Pants24Attach both the front panels of lower pantsLock Stitch (301)

Plain SeamSNLS_25Serge both the edges togetherOver Lock (504)Over Lock Seam finishOver LockSafety Stitch (516)26Flatten them and make a stitch

Double Needle Lock Stitch (301)

Single Top Stitch DNLS_27Fold pockets mouth___28Topstitch pockets mouthLock Stitch (301)

Double Fold Seam FinishSNLSDouble upturn hemmer29Fold the pockets edge and sew it on both sides of lower back panelsDouble Needle Lock Stitch (301)

Lapped Seam (2)DNLSSingle Folder30Sew both the lower panels together one over the otherLock Stitch (301)

Plain SeamSNLS_31Serge both the back panels togetherOver Lock (504)Over Lock Seam FinishOver LockSafety Stitch Machine(516)32Flatten both the panels and make a top stichDouble Needle Lock Stitch (301)

Lapped Seam (2)DNLS_33Make a running stitch from the left end of the pants matching the notches at the crotch till the right endLock Stitch (301)

Plain SeamSNLS_34Join both the side seams along with the pocketLock Stitch (301)

Plain SeamSNLS_35Serge the two parts at the side seams togetherOver Lock (504)Over Lock Seam FinishOver LockSafety Stitch Machine (516)36Hemming of the pantsLock Stitch (301)

Double Fold Seam FinishSNLSFolder + Double upturn Hemmer37Place elastic band between the two facing of waist band and make 4 running stitches over it while stretching the elasticLock Stitch (301)

Plain SeamSNLSAdjustable Shirring Presser Foot38Serge both edges of waistbandOver Lock (504)Over Lock Seam FinishOver Lock_39Place the upper bodice over the waist band and make a stitchLock Stitch (301)

Plain SeamSNLS_JOINING OF UPPER BODICE AND LOWER PANTS40Place the lower pants on another right side of the waist band and make a stitchLock Stitch (301)

Plain SeamSNLS_41Make a draw stringLock Stitch (301)

Double side FoldSNLSDNLS42Insert the draw string in the waist band__ Manual OperationDouble upturn hemmer inserting drawstring/ Cord insertion machine

Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine (SNLS)

An SNLS machine makes a single line of Lock Stitch using one needle and two threads. Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and interlocking with a bobbin thread with the threads meeting in the centre of the seam. Stitch looks the same top & bottom.Machines UsedOver Lock Machine

An over lock stitch sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming or seaming. Usually an over lock sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed through (such machines are called sergers in North America), though some are made without cutters. The inclusion of automated cutters allows over lock machines to create finished seams easily and quickly.

Double Needle Lock Stitch

A double needle Lock Stitch machine works on the same principle as SNLS while using two needles and two bobbins thus resulting in two parallel rows of Lock Stitch. The distance between two stitch lines depend upon the distance between the two needles on the needle bar which can be adjusted.

Button Hole Machine

Cut- After Buttonhole Machines - These are by far the most common type of BH machines in use today. They sew the buttonhole first and then the knife comes down and cuts the slit in the buttonhole.

Cut - Before Buttonhole Machines - These are not as common as the Cut-After BH Machines. They produce a better quality buttonhole due to the fact that they cut the fabric first and then stitch over the edge of fabric giving you a cleaner finish.

Button Attaching Machine

Most typical button sew machines in the industry are cycle machines that have the capability of making 8, 16 or 32 stitches on two & four hole flat buttons or shank buttons. The flat button sew clamp mechanism comes standard on these machines. Most machines can be converted over to sew shank buttons by changing the clamp and the plate with support block.

Deskilling DevicesYoking FolderThis is used for joining yoke andshoulder.Turns down the top ply and joinsit to two additional ply.The bottom ply is then turned backto form the yoke.Special foot is needed

Shoulder Joining FolderFoot and Guide assist inturning and top stitching front and back collar bandsafter they have been sewn to the collar.Produces a consistent stitch margin alongthe bed.

Lap Seam FolderIt is used for closing side seams.Folder with separate width adjustment is available.Can also be made with a spring release which will allow sleeve seam to pass through freely.

Margin Compensated Guild Presser FootGuides the stitch distance from the edge to make a uniform parallel stitch.

Adjustable Shirring Presser FootReduces the labour required for the shirring operation for the waist band.

Hemmer FootNo need for manual folding of the hem. Uniform hem stitch.

Double Up-turn HemmerReduces the labour and time consumption for folding and stitching the hemVariation of turn sizes can be manufactured.

Double up turn hemmer inserting or lead stringNo need to manually insert the cord reducing labour and time consumption.Increased production rate.Double Needle Tape Pressure FootSimplifies the operation of stitching the draw Stings.

Five Thread Safety Stitch Machine

This stitch is a combination of a Two-Thread Chain stitch and a Three-Thread Over lock Stitch. Using this strong and stable safety stitch eliminates the need to reinforce the seam with a conventional sewing machine straight stitch.

Buttonholer (can be used to reduce the cost of button hole machine)Abuttonholeris an attachment for asewing machinewhich automates the side-to-side and forward-and-backward motions involved in sewing a buttonhole.A buttonholer attachment can create buttonholes from any sewing machine capable of making alock stitch.The buttonholer's adaptor attaches to the machine's presser bar, replacing the presser foot.

BibliographyBINRAN, Juki Publicationshttp://fashionganga.com/2011/08/15/history-of-jumpsuits-then-to-now/http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/SS.htmhttp://www.jesseheap.com/Pictures/Brochure2/htmloptions/optionu.htmlhttp://www.rga.co.uk/pdf/rgc12.pdfhttp://www.rga.co.uk/pdf/rgc10.pdf