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1 August 2014

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Bespoke denim for plus size jeans

Denim Industry Who’s Who

Mr. Asif Riaz Tata, Naveena Exports Ltd., Pakistan

Mr. Balaji Desai, DyStar India Pvt. Ltd. India

Spanx debuts jeans collection

Pepe Jeans eyes single brand route

Genesis Luxury to bring G-Star RAW denims to India

Pg No. 4

Morgan Stanley hired by Pepe Jeans to Sell Business

Down-To-Earth Brand Revamp by Hudson Jeans

Frame Denim collaborates with Inez and Vinoodh

Deadstock Denim reducing Carbon Footprint benefitting consumers

Invista Debuts New LYCRA® Brand Initiative at Kingpins

US Denim Jeans Market Report 2014

Denim Innovation Seminar by ISKO and Archroma at China

Lawless Denim & Co. eyes expansion

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August 2014 03

Source: Bustle.com

DENIM CLUB INDIA

Down-To-Earth Brand Revamp by Hudson Jeans

Hudson Jeans has gone for a revamp of its brand concept. Hudson is reportedly undergoing a major rebranding effort which will highlight the company’s devotion to its consumers. Hudson, has been known for its fabulously flattering silhouettes, trademark triangular back pockets, and Union Jack logo since the company’s founding in 2002. The brand has an adoring celebr i ty fan base ranging from Cara Delevingne to Britney Spears, the company’s winning formula has p r o v e d i n c r e d i b l y lucrative over the past decade.

However, as any true denim devotee knows, the perfect pair of jeans isn’t just determined by the number of Hollywood starlets rocking a pair. The choice comes down to fit, style, and often the company’s attitude towards consumers who don’t measure in at six feet and one hundred pounds.

Hudson Jeans CEO Peter Kim is all about respecting and embracing his consumers, and most importantly, not depreciating them. Talking about the impetus behind the brand renovation, Kim stated that he takes issue with a very specific and antiquated buzz word used in the garment industry: Aspirational — I hear this word all the time and it makes me puke. Aspiration isn’t just physical beauty. Aspiration is what you’re doing in life.

Bearing this holistic view of lifestyle and aspiration in mind, the company plans to eschew the use of models to drive home the message that Hudson jeans are for everyone, not just impossibly slim celebrities. Additionally, Kim has chosen key words including “real” and

“optimistic” as the driving ideas behind the brand’s renaissance, as well as culling a group of real people to promote the jeans in its forthcoming social media and video campaign.

Kim explains "The key part is their story. We’re telling positive, inspirational stories of real people doing things."

The project also boasts an experimental new logo; while the trademark still contains the red white and blue of the Union Jack, the letters of each word now have a casual arch to them. One might even say the form evokes the shape of an hourglass figure.

The Hudson Jean company’s website perfectly sums up the new initiative in a single sentence, assuring shoppers:

As a woman who even on her best day doesn’t look remotely like the brand’s former spokeswoman Georgia May Jagger, it’s refreshing to see a brand embracing the bona fide woman instead of an imitable model.

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Apparel - Collection

August 2014 04DENIM CLUB INDIA

Spanx debuts jeans collectionSpanx, the American company which helped

popularize the shapewear trend has moved

into the world of denim with the launch of a

jeans collection.

Spanx has unveiled its debut "premium denim

collection", a line of denim pants packed with

"patent-pending fabric and slimming patterns"

designed to shape up your silhouette.

"Denim is a staple in every woman's

wardrobe, I wear jeans all the time, but

there are so many things about them that

I wish were different," said Spanx

founder Sara Blakely.

The two jeans styles created by Blakely are

designed to make thighs look thinner and your

legs look longer, and the pockets have also

been strategically placed to give you a perkier

posterior.

The 'Slim-X' comes in three styles (Skinny,

Straight, and Super-Skinny) and features the

classic five-pocket pattern and special shaping

features including Triple Thread Technology.

The 'Signature' (in Skinny and Straight) has a

flat waistband and a zip on the side to draw the

focus away from the tummy.

Both jeans come in a number of different

washes, and are available online and in

Spanx's US retail locations. Made from cotton,

polyester and Lycra blend the jeans are

available in sizes 26 through 32 and will be

retailing at $148. The collection will arrive in

Europe in October when it hits stores in the UK.

The slimming jeans market has been booming

over the past decade, with brands like NYDJ

(Not Your Daughter's Jeans, founded in 2003)

leading the way.

Source: Ntd.tv

Website: www.spanx.com

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Apparel

August 2014 05DENIM CLUB INDIA

Bespoke denim for plus size jeansThe ‘perfect’ pair of jeans is the holy grail of fashion. However, despite being an absolute wardrobe staple, finding a pair that fits your waist as well as your hips and thighs is quite often a near unobtainable mission.

Danish brand My Star Denim Jeans has now come up with a solution, offering plus sized women a bespoke denim service that claims to use patented technology to give that mythical perfect fit.

Launching with navabi, the premium plus size fashion brand, My Star Denim J e a n s s i z e s a r e b a s e d o n measurements as oppoesed to traditional UK sizes allowing you to create your very own style, totally unique to you and your shape.

Size is calculated based on two body

measurements: waist and hip which you measure yourself according to exact video instructions. Once entered into the system, complex algorithms take into account your style and design preferences as well as measurements.

The system then taps into its database of patterns before coming up with your unique size, and hopefully ultimately crafting you a perfect pair of jeans

Designed for plus size women, the jeans represent the continuing

expansion of fashion for larger ladies, with increasing ranges of high end clothes,

and now bespoke tailoring .

Prices start from £77 to £118 and the range for autumn/winter consists of five key silhouettes including a straight, super slim fit, and distressed boyfriend style.

Source: Dailymail.co.uk

Genesis Luxury to bring G-Star RAW denims to IndiaGenesis Luxury has signed a distribution and marketing deal with Dutch clothing brand G-Star RAW, popular for its denim-wear, for the Indian market. The brand is

known for making raw or unwashed and untreated denim positioned as 'luxury denim for the streets'.

Genesis is aiming at opening 30 points of sale for G-Star in India in the next five years. Denim jeans will retail between Rs 6,000 and Rs 14,000. Founded in Amsterdam in 1989, G-Star is retailed through over 6,500 points of sale globally. Pharrell Williams, recently collaborated with the brand for award-winning 'RAW For the

Oceans' fashion collection made from recycled plastic found in the ocean.

A study by Technopak stated that denim apparel market in the country is expected to grow 14 percent a year to reach Rs 21,250 crores by 2018, up from Rs 10,980 crores in 2013. It expects the core consuming age group of 15 to 39 years to widen to 566 million from the present 499 million over the next decade.

Along with its parent company Genesis Colors that has been successfully retailing Satya Paul, Tie Rack and Bwitch. The company launched two new brands in July last year - Michael Kors at DLF Emporio, New Delhi and Villeroy & Boch at the Palladium, Mumbai.

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Corporate - Investment

DENIM CLUB INDIAAugust 2014 06

Pepe Jeans eyes single brand route

Morgan Stanley hired by Pepe Jeans to Sell Business

P e p e J e a n s Group, the clothing retailer known for i t s den im and s p o r t s w e a r b r a n d s , h a s

reportedly hired Morgan Stanley to explore the sale of the business.

The sale will include both the Pepe Jeans and Hackett brands and expected to fetch as much as 700 million euros ($941 million), sources said, asking not to be identified because the discussions are private. The company has attracted interest from buyout firms including KKR, Permira Advisers LLP, CVC Capital Partners Ltd. and PAI Partners SAS as well as strategic companies, the people said.

Pepe Jeans, was started by three brothers on a stall in London’s Portobello Market in 1973, is

currently owned by private-equity firms Torreal, Arta Capital, L Capital and its management team, led by Chief Executive Officer Carlos Ortega. Ortega will stay on as CEO of the company, the people said.

Pepe Jeans, which is a sponsor of the Infiniti Red Bull Racing Formula One team and has run high-profile advertising campaigns starring actress Sienna Miller and soccer star Cristiano Ronaldo, now has a presence in more than 60 countries. Its annual earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization are about 60 million euros, the people said.

There has been no confirmation or refutation from representatives at Torreal, Arta, KKR, Permira and CVC or Pepe Jeans, L Capital and Morgan and Stanley.

Source: Bloomberg.com

Though the company has been sourcing 100 per cent locally, the clause of local sourcing at 30 per cent from SMEs (small and medium enterprises) has held the company back as the company does not want to compromise on the quality of products.

The Government is reportedly contemplating removing the 30 per cent local sourcing clause to make more international brands invest in the country. Pepe Jeans is also planning to use India as a sourcing hub for South-East Asian countries. India is Pepe’s fifth largest market in terms of sales turnover with Germany and France being its leading markets.

Pepe has also been able to reduce prices for the Indian market due to its 100 per cent local sourcing capabilities. The current retail sales turover of Pepe in India stands at ?500 crore, and the brand will be extended into kids wear and footwear by the second half of next year.

Pepe Jeans, the i n t e r n a t i o n a l premium denim brand operating in India through a joint venture in the

wholesale segment, is exploring the single brand retailing route where 100 per cent FDI is allowed.

Madrid-based Pepe Jeans is holding a majority stake in the Indian venture, while the rest is owned by a group of investors under the name of Glen Marken.

“We are closely looking at single brand retail and are waiting for the changes in local sourcing norms. Currently, we operate as a wholesale company, but if the sourcing norms were to change, then we can look at starting retail operations directly,” said Kavindra Mishra, Chief Executive Officer, Pepe Jeans. The denim brand began operations in India through the franchise route in 1989 and later floated a joint venture. Source: Thehindubusinessline.com

Apparel - Collection

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DENIM CLUB INDIAAugust 2014 07

Frame Denim collaborates with Inez and VinoodhCULT label Frame Denim have collaborated with Dutch pho tographers Ines & Vinoodh for a capsule collection.

The campaign is modelled on Freja Beha Erichsen, Paul Ri tchie and the duo themselves, and features the first menswear jeans created by the label, and Ines and Vinoodh's first foray into denim design.

"They are great friends of ours and we admire their artistic eye as photographers but we believe they have a talent that transcends media," said Frame founders Jens Grede and Erik Torstensson. "They had an idea of denim which absolutely intrigued us and we became excited to explore that idea and make it reality. It was a very organic process."

Frame has formed an illustrious fan base since Source: Vogue.co.uk

its inception 18 months ago which includes Gisele, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Rihanna, Sienna Miller and Beyoncé among their famous fans.

Inez & Vinoodh for Frame Denim will be available at Net-a-porter.com, Mrporter.com, Barneys New York and Colette in the first week of August.

Deadstock Denim reducing Carbon Footprint benefitting consumers

Castaway denim can be a treasure, when repurposed into attractive jeans which reduce the carbon footprint while not sacrificing wearability and quality, and benefiting the consumer at the same time.

This is what Colby Kane, a denim aficionado and a keen-eyed entrepreneur in a jean manufacturing company visualized when he saw piles of dead stock jean fabric set aside as if waiting for love and attention. Colby Kane has over 8 years experience in clothing manufacturing. He found out that the dead stock of denim was an opportunity waiting in the wings – an opportunity to reduce extra material and an opportunity to provide a clothing line using his experience and knowledge of the passions of jean wearers.

Hand selected top-tier denim fabric in three varieties has been chosen for the brand. This added product line will help keep workers busy, while providing savings for the consumer. The jeans will be shipped directly to the buyer. They will offer a perfect fit benefit and will feature single needle construction, tucked belt loops, twill pocket lining, chain stitch waistband and cuff, reinforced stitching at critical stretch points and more.

The team includes a pattern maker with two decades of experience working with superior brands. This individual has helped to develop three perfect fits. The success of this campaign will help bring the premium product line into full-scale production.

Source : Digitaljournal.com

Corporate - Launch

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DENIM CLUB INDIAAugust 2014 08

Invista Debuts New LYCRA Brand

Initiative at Kingpins

®

technology, visitors to the INVISTA stand will find LYCRA® branded solutions to many common consumer issues.

INVISTA will also host a seminar on July 23 to present the results of a recently completed global denim study. According to Jean Hegedus, INVISTA’s global denim director, the presentation will cover specific insights about what consumers are looking for in their jeans as well as some of the larger megatrends that are influencing their behavior. In addition to the quantitative research, INVISTA will showcase fun video featuring comments from Dutch consumers. “Since the Dutch own more jeans per capita than people in any other country, we thought it would be interesting to get their perspective on where this iconic garment is headed,” Hegedus said.

INVISTA has been a long-time supporter of Kingpins events, having been a sponsor of the shows in New York, Los Angeles, Hong Kong, and most recently, Amsterdam. “INVISTA’s denim expertise and ongoing development of new technologies is evidenced by LYCRA® fiber being at the forefront of the denim world for more than 20 years,” Hegedus said. “The New York Kingpins Show provides an excellent forum for us to begin talking with our denim customers in North America about our new LYCRA® brand strategy,” Hegedus said.

As part of an initiative to reinforce the value of the LYCRA® brand to consumers, INVISTA will be unveiling to the denim industry its new LYCRA® brand positioning at the Kingpins Shows in New York on 22-23 July and at Los Angeles on 29-30 July. The new positioning is being articulated through the campaign platform “LYCRA® MOVES YOU” which brings to life the three key benef i ts consumers associate with the LYCRA® fiber brand: freedom, comfort and movement.

In addition to the new positioning, INVISTA is rolling out a simplified brand architecture focused more on the LYCRA® brand itself with fewer sub-brands to ensure a clear and focused message to the consumer. The company is upgrading its hangtags to a new, contemporary style with the “LYCRA® MOVES YOU” message. The new positioning, brand architecture and promotional elements were born out of extensive consumer research. Qualitative and quantitative studies as well as social listening were carried out in eight markets to understand what the LYCRA® fiber brand means to consumers and how they interpret its key attributes across various garment categories.

The “LYCRA® MOVES YOU” theme reflects the “promise of freedom of movement, as well as the emotional connection consumers have told us they feel toward the brand,” said Rita Ratskoff, INVISTA’s denim marketing manager for North America. “To the trade, the new positioning is a call to move with us in creating new and innovative products that drive business,” she added.

INVISTA will bring the new positioning to life at Kingpins, and showcase a variety of LYCRA® brand technologies that address the consumer’s need for comfortable garments that move with them. From its dualFX® technology for super stretch garments that keep their shape, to XFIT technology for 360o comfort and fit, to durable yet comfortable options such as TOUGH MAX™

Source: Businesswire.com

Industry Event

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DENIM CLUB INDIAAugust 2014 08

Denim Innovation Seminar by ISKO and Archroma at China

Denim Innovation Seminar, an innovative initiative aimed at exchanging ideas on the Chinese denim business and enhancing any unexplored opportunities was organised by ISKO and Archroma in China.

This one-of-a-kind Denim meeting, an intercultural creative crossing with all the expertise of ISKO and Archroma, put the Chinese denim under the spotlight, to share ideas on how

to move forward determinedly and successfully. ISKO, the global leader in denim m a n u f a c t u r i n g , t o g e t h e r w i t h

Archroma, the global leader for color and specialty chemicals, went to Shanghai on the 2/3 of July to gather the most important players in this area of the denim world. As a result of this exchange of cultural dynamics, global denim trends took shape, including fits, washing and colors. It was a great occasion to bring together key players such as Chinese denim brands, to

understand how the denim market is developing. ISKO's and Archroma's experts illustrated the rising trends in denim fabric and washing development. The program was rich and touched on many points of the ISKO world, starting from a description of the company with a focus on its marketing strategy. The product was the protagonist thanks to cutting-edge highlights from the latest ISKO innovations and some insights from the global F/W 15/16 trends. Then, Moreno De Angelis, Garment Washing Manager of ISKO at ISKOTECA, the center for research on washing and treatments, talked about the most advanced washings based on ISKO technology; Umberto Brocchetto, General Manager at Creative Room, the Italian ISKO division for design and style research, gave a remarkable presentation of this creative division. A presentation was also made by Archroma, trusted partner of ISKO, the global brand specialized in dyeing techniques, and there was time to look into Japanese washing techniques:

US Denim Jeans Market Report 2014The US apparel industry is large, mature, and highly fragmented. This industry has stretched the boundaries of its creativity and imagination to find new ways to increase selling opportunities and achieve competitive edge globally.

The global economic downturn has had a severe effect over the apparel industry, but the denim market has regained its pace relatively faster as compared to other apparel segments.

This report analyzes the development of the "US Denim Jeans Market", with a focus on women's and men's denim jeans market. It also studies the import/export pattern in the US. The major trends, drivers facilitating growth of the US denim jeans market, as well as the issues being faced by the industry are being presented in this report.

The report also includes profiles of the four major players in the US denim industry, VF Corporation, Fifth & Pacific Companies, True Religion and Levi’s Strauss and their key financials and strategies for growth have been highlighted.

Denim jeans have become a necessity and wardrobe staple as it offers comfort and a longer life span compared to other types of apparel. Jeans can be worn on different kinds of social and even official occasions. Over the years, denim has revealed its capability to overcome age and gender barriers. In the US, denim is the most extensively produced and used apparel. The growth of denim category is further fuelled by the growth in premium denim market. The market is projected to grow further in years to come due to economic, social and demographic trends.

Source: Whatech.com

Apparel - Manufacturing

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DENIM CLUB INDIAAugust 2014 10

this was surely a unique occasion to see the most advanced innovations in treatments. Last but not least, "Bluemasters - innovation in Denim", the striking editorial project promoted by ISKO and Archroma, was presented, highlighting the experience of many masters of denim such as Renzo Rosso, Vivienne Westwood, Ermanno Scervino, Adriano Goldschmied, Francois Girbaud and Elio Fiorucci, who has written an introduction to the book, plus many more.

Many prestigious brands participated in the Denim Innovation Seminar: Leader Point, HK Fashion Designer Association, We Artrends, View, Yoho, Etan, Prooof, Denim of Asia, Able Jeans and Close-up. “We are very enthusiastic about this Chinese edition" says Marco Lucietti, Marketing Director SANKO/ISKO Division, "the protagonists and the agenda were a huge contribution and a boost to innovation in our sector. Also thanks to this seminar, we will be able to improve in terms of creativity and production."

Source: Fibre2fashion.com

Lawless Denim & Co. eyes expansionLawless Denim & Co. was founded by Roman Acevedo less than a year ago. Using vintage sewing machines and limited runs of Cone Mills Selvedge and Japanese denim, Acevedo and his team of 20 employees are already crafting Arizona's only brand of jeans. But Acevedo wants more, he wants to be Arizona's first denim manufacturer.

"We want our customers to know everything about our product, where the denim came from, who makes it and how it's made," says Acevedo.

Acevedo is working with Arizona cotton growers, Pima cotton, collecting vintage sewing looms from Nicaragua and fixing them up in America's or iginal jean-manufacturing heartland, Raleigh, North Carolina. He has already bought 14 Draper X3 looms, the same looms that Levi Strauss used in the early 1900s.

"We want to stay true to heritage-quality American-made denim," Acevedo said.

Unfortunately, the talent for using the looms, as well as cutting and sewing textiles, is another relic of the past, leaving Acevedo to teach himself and his employees how to make denim, how to stitch seams, how to hammer buttons and everything else that comes with making a pair of jeans.

Lawless makes only 20 pairs of jeans a day at a factory in downtown Phoenix, a few blocks from its store at Central Avenue and Washington Street in CityScape. The waiting list is at least Source: Azcentral.com

three weeks for a new pair, and even that's been a difficult deadline for them to keep.

Lawless has set up a Kickstarter to help fund the expansion of its operations. So far, it's already raised more than $55,000 to purchase new sewing machines, new cutting tables and hire new employees.

Acevedo wants to employ 150-200 textile and retail workers at his factory in Arizona, plus an additional 200 employees for a new factory in Los Angeles, he said. Acevedo is hoping to eventually produce 500 pairs of jeans a day, from the denim to the finished product, he said.

Lawless jeans retail at $79, well below the $200 to $400 price tags on such luxury jean brands as Diesel. Lawless also offers to tailor its jeans for $125, or fully customize a pair for $195.

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From The Denim Directory

DENIM CLUB INDIAAugust 2014 09

Denim Industry Who's Who

Mr. Balaji Desai, President South Asia & Managing DirectorDyStar India Pvt. Ltd., India

Mr. Balaji Desai holds a Bachelor Degree in Science and Technology from Bombay University Department of Chemical Technology (UDCT) and completed his Masters in Management with specialisation in Entrepreneurship & Strategy Management.

Mr. Desai started his career in Production Department but moved on to Sales & Marketing after a couple of years. He has over 23 years of experience in sales and marketing of different types of chemicals including Surfactants, Specialty Chemicals & Functional Chemicals and Dyes & Pigments.

He has worked with renowned companies including WIPRO, Bombay Oil Inds Pvt Ltd, Mafatlal Dyes & Chemicals Ltd, Ciba India Limited and Aquapharm Chemicals Pvt Limited. Mr. Desai handled International Business for different regions while at Aquapharm and headed the entire Business Line for South Asia at Ciba India, where he worked for 10 years.

Mr. Desai is currently working with DyStar, one of the Global Leader in Dyes & Chemicals for Textile Industry, as the Managing Director for India & President South Asia including countries having Textile as a prominent Industry - India, Pakistan, Bangladesh & Sri Lanka.

Mr. Asif Riaz Tata, ChairmanNaveena Exports Ltd., Pakistan

Mr. Asif Riaz Tata is Chairman of Naveena Exports Ltd. and has over 30 years of extensive experience in manufacturing & export and looks after the financial affairs and garment business of Naveena.

He saw an opportunity and forayed in denim industry in 2003, since then company has grown to be US $100 million company with 4 different production units from Spinning to Garments in Karachi and Lahore. Mr. Tata also started Naveena Knits from scratch and built it into US$ 50 million business.

Under his leadership, the company has been innovating and developing new designs and fabric every season and exporting to 35 countries in Asia, Europe, Africa, North America & South America.

Mr. Tata has been the recipient of various awards including Best Businessman of the year in 1999 by The Federation of Pakistan Chamber of Commerce & Industry, Top Exporters award from 1994 to 2004 from The Federation of Pakistan Chamber of Commerce & Industry, Top Exporters from Karachi Chamber of Commerce, Highest Exporter of Garments to France since last 2 years from Pakistan France Business Alliance.

Mr. Tata built and supports The Citizen Foundation school, Riaz Ahmed Tata campus in Korangi, Karachi, which has 850 students who do not need to pay tuiton fees and other expenses for their education.

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