Spanish Highways & Byways (Public Domain)

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ProjectGutenberg'sSpanishHighwaysandByways,byKatharineLeeBates

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Title:SpanishHighwaysandByways

Author:KatharineLeeBates

ReleaseDate:February4,2012[EBook#38767]

Language:English

***STARTOFTHISPROJECTGUTENBERGEBOOKSPANISHHIGHWAYSANDBYWAYS***

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SPANISHHIGHWAYSANDBYWAYS

[Illustration:SANSEBASTIAN]


BYKATHARINELEEBATES

_Authorof"AmericanLiterature""TheEnglishReligiousDrama,"etc._

ILLUSTRATEDWITHMANYENGRAVINGSFROMPHOTOGRAPHS

_Publishedby_THEMACMILLANCOMPANY_NewYorkMCM_

LONDON:MACMILLANANDCO.,LIMITED

COPYRIGHT,1900,



BYTHEMACMILLANCOMPANY

_NorwoodPress_ _J.S.Cushing&Co.--Berwick&Smith_ _Norwood,Mass.,U.S.A._

MadreMia

AQUITIENESTULIBRO

Preface

AtouristinSpaincanhopetounderstandbutlittleofthatstrange,deep-rooted,andcomplexlifeshutawaybeyondthePyrenees.Thisbookclaimstobenothingmorethanarecordofimpressions.Assuch,whatevermaybeitserrors,itshouldatleastbearwitnesstothepicturesque,poeticcharmofthePeninsulaandtothegraciousnessof

Spanishmanners.

Contents

ChapterPage

I."TheLazySpaniard"1II.AContinuousCarnival11III.WithintheAlhambra27

IV.AFunctioninGranada39V.InSightoftheGiralda48VI.PassionWeekinSeville58VII.TracesoftheInquisition82VIII.AnAndalusianType102IX.ABull-fight113X.Gypsies132XI.TheRouteoftheSilverFleets147XII.Murillo'sCherubs162XIII.TheYolkoftheSpanishEgg183XIV.AStudyinContrasts203XV.ThePatronSaintofMadrid214XVI.TheFuneralofCastelar233

XVII.TheImmemorialFashion246XVIII.CorpusChristiinToledo263XIX.TheTercentenaryofVelázquez283XX.ChoralGamesofSpanishChildren297XXI."OlaSeñorita!"338XXII.AcrosstheBasqueProvinces362XXIII.InOldCastile376XXIV.PilgrimsofSaintJames394XXV.TheBuildingofaShrine409XXVI.TheSonofThunder423



XXVII.VigoandAway439

ListofIllustrations

SanSebastian_Frontispiece_ FacingPagePasajes8AnArabGatewayinBurgos23PlayingatBull-fight.FrompaintingbyBayeu30TheMosqueofCordova39TheColumbusMonumentinGranada46TheAlhambra.HallofJustice55FillingtheWater-jars62OfffortheWar.FrompaintingbyRubio71LookingtowardtheDarro78AMilkmanofGranada101ARomanWellinRonda112TheGiralda131ThePassingofthePageants146ThePageantofGethsemane167

"JesusofthePassion"174"ChristoftheSevenWords"195MariaSantisima210ASpanishMonk.FrompaintingbyZurbarán215ASevilleStreet222AnOld-fashionedBull-fight.FrompaintingbyGoya243TheBull-fightofTo-day258TheKingoftheGypsies275GypsyTenantsofanArabPalace290FromtheGoldenTowerdowntheGuadalquivír311Cadiz,fromtheSea318TheDivineShepherd.FrompaintingbyMurillo339TheRoyalPalaceinMadrid354

TheRoyalFamily359TheManzanares366ASpanishCemetery375Toledo382ToledoCathedral.PuertadelosLeones391St.Paul,thefirstHermit.FrompaintingbyRibera398TheMaidsofHonor.FrompaintingbyVelázquez407DancingtheSevillana414WithintheCloister423TheTrampleroftheMoors430SantiagoCathedral.PuertadelaGloria439St.James.FrompaintingbyMurillo446


SpanishHighwaysandByways



I

"THELAZYSPANIARD"

"ThereisadifferencebetweenPeterandPeter."--CERVANTES:_DonQuixote_.

"Spainisacontradiction,"wasthepartingwordoftheRev.WilliamH.Gulick,thehonoredAmericanmissionarywhoseunweariedkindnesslookedafterus,duringthebreakinofficialrepresentation,moreeffectivelythanawholediplomaticcorps."Spanishbloodisastrange _mezcla_,whoseelements,Gothic,African,Oriental,areatwaramongthemselves.YouwillfindSpaniardstenderandcruel,boastfulandhumble,frankandsecretive,andallatonce.Itwillbeajourneyofsurprises."

Weweresayinggood-by,onFebruary4,1899,tosunshinyBiarritz,whitherMrs.Gulick'sschoolforSpanishgirlshadbeenspiritedovertheborderattheoutbreakofthewar.HerewehadfoundSpanishandAmericanflagsdrapedtogether,SpanishandAmericanfriendships

holdingfast,andagallantlittlebandofAmericanteachersspendingyouthandstrengthintheirpatientcampaignforconqueringthePeninsulabyapurerideaoftruth.RoughRidersmaybemorepictorial,buthardlymoreheroic.

Wewerebarelythroughthecustomhouse,initselfthesimplestandswiftestofoperations,beforetheprophesiedtrainofsurprisesbegan.OneofourpreconceivedideaswenttowreckattheveryoutsetontheindustryoftheBasqueprovinces."ThelazySpaniard"haspassedintoaproverb.Theroundworldknowshisportrait--thatbroad _sombrero_,romanticcloak,andtiltedcigarette.ButthelaboriousSpaniardcannolongerbeignored.EvenatBiarritzwehadtoreckonwithhim,fortheworkingpopulationthereisscarcelylessSpanish

thanFrench.Everybodyunderstandsbothlanguagesasspoken,anditisacommonthingtooverhearanimateddialoguewherethetalkisallSpanishontheonesideandallFrenchontheother.ThewarsetstreamsofSpanishlaborersflowingoverthemountainbarintoFrenchterritory.Youngmenfledfromconscription,andfathersoffamiliescameunderpressureofhardtimes.Skilledartisans,asmasonsandcarpenters,couldmakeinBiarritzadailywageoffivefrancs,thenormalequivalentoffive_pesetas_,oradollar,whileonlythehalfofthiswastobeearnedontheirnativesideofthePyrenees.Such,too,wasthemagicofexchangethatthesefivefrancs,senthome,mighttransformthemselvesintoten,eight,orsevenandahalf _pesetas_.EvenwhenweenteredSpain,aftertheParisCommissionhadrisen,therateofexchangewasanythingbutstable,varyingnot

merelyfromdaytoday,butfromhourtohour,adifferenceoftwoorthreepercentoftenoccurringbetweenmorningandevening.Theconditionsthatboresoheavilyonthecraftswerecrushingthefieldlaborersalmosttostarvation.Inpointofexcessivetoil,thosepeasantsofnorthernSpainseemedtousworseoffthanMr.Markham's"ManwiththeHoe,"fortherudemattock,centuriesoutofdate,withwhichtheybreakuptheground,involvestheutmostbodilyexertion.Andbyallthatsweatofthebrow,theyweregaining,onanaverage,tenortwelvecentsaday.



Nowonderthatdiscontentcloudedtheland.WemetthisfirstatPasajes,ononeoftheexcursionsarrangedforourpleasurebytheoverflowgoodnessofthatmissionarygarrison.Thebusiestofteachershadbroughtus--ayoungcompatriotfromaParisstudioandmyself--sofarasSanSebastian,whereshelingeredlongenoughtomakeusacquaintedwithacircleoffriends,and,incidentally,withPasajes.ThisBasquefishinghamletisperchedbetweenhillandsea,withasinglerough-pavedstreetrunningthelengthofthevillagefromtheChurchofSt.PetertotheChurchofSt.John.Naturehasnotbeencharyofbeautyhere.Themountain-foldedBayofPasajesappearsatfirstviewlikeanAlpinelake,butthepresenceofstatelyDutchandSpanishmerchantmeninthesesapphirewatersmakesitevidentthattheremustbeanoutlettotheocean.Sucharift,infact,wasdisclosedasthestrong-armedoldferrywomanrowedusacross,adeepbutnarrowpassage(hencethename)betweensheerwallsofrock,whosecleftsandcranniesthrillthemostrespectabletouristwithlongingstoturnsmuggler.Thevillageclingswithdifficultytoitsstonystripbetweensteepandwave.Ononesideofthatsinglestreet,thepeeringstonehouses,somestillshowingfadedcoatsofarms,arehalfembeddedinthemountain,andontheotherthetidebeatsperilouslyagainsttheoldfoundationpiles.

Abovetheunevenroofs,ontheprecipitoushillside,sleepthedead,watchedoverbySantaAnafromherneglectedhermitage.Onlyoncea

year,onherownfeastday,ishergorgeousaltarclothbroughtforthandhertallcandleslighted,whiletherats,whohavebeennibblinghergildedshoesandcomparingthetasteofthebluesandcrimsonsinherpaintedrobes,skurryintotheirholesattheunaccustomedsoundofcrowdingfeet.Pasajesboasts,too,atouchofhistoricaldignity.FromhereLafayette,gallantyoungFrenchmanthathewas,sailedforAmerica,andprobablythen,asnow,littleBasquegirlsranatthestranger'ssidewithsmallhandsfullofwildflowers,androguishBasqueboyshidbehindbouldersandtriedtofrightenhimbyplayingbrigand,withaprodigiouswavingofthorn-branchgunsandboomingofvocalartillery.

Butnotthejoyofbeautynortheprideofancientmemorytakesthe

placeofbread.Weapproachedafactoryandaskedoftheworkmanattheentrance,"Whatdoyoumanufacturehere?""WhattheymanufactureinallSpain,nowadays,"heanswered,"misery."Thisparticularmisery,however,hadtheformoftableware,thelongrowsofsimplecupsandplatesandpitchers,invariousstagesofcompletion,beingdiversifiedbyjauntylittleimagesoftheBasqueballplayers,whosegameisfamousthroughoutthePeninsula.Wefinallysucceededinpurchasingoneoftheseforfifteencents,althoughthevillagewashardputtoittomakechangeforadollar,andwasobliged,withgraveapologies,toloadusdownwithfortyorsobigSpanishcoppers.

"ThelazySpaniard!"LookattheverychildrenastheyrompaboutSanSebastian.ThisisthemostaristocraticsummerresortinSpain,the

QueenRegenthavingachâletonthatartisticbaycalledthe_Concha_ orShell.Itisacrescentofshimmeringcolor,sodaintyandsoperfect,withguardianmountainsofjasperandafringeofdiamondsurf,thatitishardtobelieveitanythingbutabitofmagicaljewel-work.Itmightbeacityoffairyland,didnottheclamorofchildishvoicescontinuallybreakalldreamyspells.Whatenergyandtirelessactivity!Upanddownthestreets,thecleaneststreetsinSpain,twinklehundredsoflittle_alpargatas_,brightlyembroideredcanvasshoeswithsolesofplaitedhemp.Spanishfamiliesarelarge,althoughfromtheignoranceofthemothersandtheunsanitary



conditionofthehomes,themortalityamongthechildrenisextreme.Hereisahousehold,forexample,whereoutofseventeenblack-eyedbabiesbutthreehavefoughttheirwaytomaturity.Spanishparentsarenotablyaffectionate,but,inthepoorerclasses,atleast,impatientintheirdiscipline.Itisthemorningimpulseofthebusymother,workingatdisadvantageinhersmallandcrowdedrooms,toclearthemofthejuvenileuproarbyturninghernoisybroodoutofdoorsfortheday.Surprisinglyneatintheirdressbutoftenwithnothingsavecabbageintheiryoungstomachs,forththeystormintothestreets.Herethestrangermaystandandwatchthembythehourastheybowandcircle,tossandtumble,danceandracethroughanenchantingvarietyofgames.Themostviolentseemtopleasethembest.Nowandthenalaughinggirlstoopstowhiskawaythebeadsofperspirationfromalittlebrother'sshiningface,butingeneraltheyaretooraptwiththeexcitementoftheirsportstobeawareofweariness.Suchflashingofeyesandstreamingofhairandjubileeofsongs!

Oneoftheirfavoritegames,forinstance,isthis:Anespeciallyactivechild,bypreferenceaboy,takesthenameof_milano_,orkite,andthrowshimselfdowninsomeconvenientdoorway,asifasleep.TheothersforminIndianfile,the_madre_,ormother,atthehead,andthesmallestgirl,Mariquilla,lastinline.Thefileproceedstosing:--

"Wearegoingtothegarden,Althoughitswickedwarden,Hungryearlyandlate,Iscrouchingbeforethegate."

ThenensuesamusicaldialoguebetweenthemotherandMariquilla:--

_Mother._LittleMaryintherear!

_LittleMary._What'syourbidding,motherdear?

_Mother._Tellmehowthekitemaythrive.

_LittleMary[aftercautiouslysidlinguptothedoorwayandinspectingthepronefigurethere]._

He'shalfdeadandhalfalive.

Thenthefilechantsagain:--

"Wearegoingtothegarden,Althoughitswickedwarden,Hungryearlyandlate,Iscrouchingbeforethegate."

_Mother._LittleMaryintherear!

_LittleMary._What'syourbidding,motherdear?

_Mother._OfthekiteIbidyouspeak.

_LittleMary[afterasecondreconnoissance,whichsendsherscamperingbacktoherownplace]._

Hewhetshisclawsandwhetshisbeak.



Heretheenemyadvances,beatingamostappallingtattoo:--

_Kite._Pum,pum!Tat,tat!

_Mother._Whoishereandwhatisthat?

_Kite._'Tisthekite.

_Mother._Whatseeksthekite?

_Kite._Humanflesh!Abite,abite!

_Mother._Youmustcatchbeforeyoudine.Children,children,keeptheline!

Andwiththisthedauntlessparent,abandoningsongforaction,dartswithoutspreadarmsinfrontoftherobber,whobendsallhisenergiestoreachingandsnatchingawayLittleMary.Theentireline,keepingrank,curvesandtwistsbehindtheleader,allintentonprotectingthatpoormidgetattheend.Andwhenthewildfrolichasresultedinhercapture,andeverychildispantingwithfatigue,theystraightwayresumetheiroriginalpositionsandplayitalloveragain.InSevillethisgametakesonareligiousvariation,thekitebecomingtheDevil,

andthe_madre_theangelMichaeldefendingatroopofsouls.InCubawehaveahawkpittedagainstahenwithherbroodofchickens.

WesteppedintoaProtestantKindergartenonedaytoseehowsuchstirringatomsofhumanitymightdemeanthemselvesinschool.Talkoflittlepitchers!Hereweresometwoscoretinyjugs,bubblingfullofmischief,withonebright,sympatheticgirloftwenty-twokeepingafingeroneverydancinglid.Impossible,ofcourse!Butallherweek'sworklookedtousimpossible.WehadknowndiligentteachersintheUnitedStates;this"lazySpaniard,"however,notonlykeepsherKindergartenwellinhandfromninetotwelve,butinstructsthesamerestlessmites--somanyofthemasdonotfallintoababy-sleepovertheirdesks--inreadingandcountingfromtwotofour,givesaSpanish

lessonfromsixtoseven,andstruggleswiththepatheticignoranceofgrownmenandwomeninthenightschoolfromeighttohalf-pastnineorten.

TheSpanishpastorandhiswife,alsoteachersindayschool,nightschool,Sundayschool,arenolessmarvelsofindustry.Themultiplicationtable,lustilyintonedtothetrampofmarchingfeet,calledusintoaclass-roomwheretheoldergirlsweregatheredforlessonsinreadingandwriting,arithmeticandgeography,sewingandembroidery.ThedelicatelittleladywhopresidesoverthislivelykingdommaybeseenonSunday,seatedatthemelodeon,leadingthechapelmusic--anexquisitepictureofaSpanishseñora,withthelacemantillacrowningtheblackhairandgracefullyfallingtotheslender

shoulders.Wehadheardhergiveanaddressonforeignsoil,beforeanaudienceofahundredstrangers,speakingwithanirresistiblefervorofappeal,andnolesscharmingwassheattheheadofherowntable,thesoulofvivaciousandwinsomehospitality.

Asforthepastorhimself,hecarriestheadministrativeburdensofchurchandschool,teachesthelargerboysmorningandafternoon,andthemenintheevening,preachesonceonThursdayandtwiceonSunday,andslipsinbetweenthesestatedtasksalltheinnumerableincidentaldutiesofamissionarypastorate.Andyetthismanofmanylaborsis



notonlySpanish,butPhilippine.HischildhoodwaspassedatCavite,thehomeofhisfather,aSpanishofficer,whohadchosenhisbridefromanativefamily.TheboywasputtoschoolwiththefriarsatManila,where,rathertothedisgustofthesoldier-father,heformedthedesiretoenterthebrotherhood.Hewasnotblind--whatstudentsare?--totheblemishesofhisteachers.Hehadoftenstoodbywiththeotherladsandshoutedwithlaughtertoseeagroupoffriars,theircassockswellgirdedup,driveapigintotheirshallowpondandstabtheplungingcreaturethere,thatitmightbecounted"fish"andservethemfordinneronFriday.Buthisfaithintheorderheldfirm,and,whenhisnovitiatewaswelladvanced,hewassenttoMadridforthefinalceremonies.Here,bychance,hedroppedintoaProtestantservice,andafterseveralyearsofexaminationandindecision,chosethethornyroad.

[Illustration:PASAJES]

AllhiswearingoccupationsdonotdullthatfinesenseofcourtesyinherentinaSpanishgentleman.ThesunitselfhadhardlyrisenwhenwedepartedfromSanSebastian,yetwefoundDonAngelatthestation,muffledintheinevitableSpanish_capa_,tosaygood-byoncemoreandassureusthat,comewhatmight,wehadalways"ahouseandafriendinSpain."Welaiddownthelocaljournal,hardreadingthatitwaswithitsdenunciationsof"theinhumanbarbaritiesoftheNorth

AmericanstowardtheFilipinos,"andventuredtoaskforhisownviewofthematter.

"TheUnitedStates,"heanswered,speakingmodestlyandverygently,"meanswellandhas,inthemain,donewell.WhenIsaythisintheCasino,mengetangryandcallmeaYankeefilibuster.ButintruththePhilippinesareverydeartomeandIcarryasadheart.Itwastheprotocolthatdidthemischief.Itisnoteasyforsimpleislanderstounderstandthatwordsmaysayonethingandmeananother.PhilippinefaithinAmericanpromisesisbroken.Andredisahardcolortowashout.YetIstillhopethat,whenthedaysofslaughterareover,peaceandlifemayfinallycometomyunhappybirthplacefromyourgreatnation.TheTagalosarenotsoworthlessasAmericans

seemtothink,thoughtheclimateofthePhilippines,likethatofAndalusia,temptstoindolence.Butstrongmotivesmakegoodworkerseverywhere."

II

ACONTINUOUSCARNIVAL

"Thisperiodicalexplosionoffreedomandfolly."--BECQUER:_ElCarnaval_.

Havingre-formedourconceptofaSpaniardtoadmittheelementsofnaturalvigoranddetermineddiligence,weweresurprisedagaintofindthistragicnation,whosefreshgriefandshamehadalmostdeterredusfromtheindelicacyofintrusion,enteringwitheagerzestintothewildfunofCarnival.SorrowwasstillfreshfortheeightythousanddeadinCuba,thehaplessprisonersinthePhilippines,thewretched_repatriados_landed,cargoaftercargo,atportswheresomeweresufferedtoperishinthestreets.Everyhouseholdhaditstale



ofloss;yet,notwithstandingallthetroublesofthetime,SpainmustkeepherCarnival."Itisoneofthesaddestandmostdishearteningfeaturesofthesituation,"saidaSpaniardtous."Thereisnoearnestnesshere,norealizationofthenationalcrisis.Thepoliticianscarefornothingbuttoenrichthemselves,andthepeople,asyousee,carefornothingbuttodivertthemselves."

Yetwelookedfromthemadcapcrowdtotheclosedshutters,keepingtheirsecretsofheartbreak,andrememberedthewordsofZorrilla,"Wherethereisonewholaughs,thereiseveranotherwhoweepsinthegreatCarnivalofourlife."

TheparksofSanSebastianweregaywithmaskersandmusic,ticklingbrushesandshowersof_confetti_,onourlastdaythere,butthepeculiarfeatureofthefestivityinthisBasquecityis"thebaitingoftheox."OnthatCarnival-Sundayafternoonwefoundourselveslookingdown,fromasafebalcony,upontheold_PlazadelaConstitución_,withitsarcadedsides.Thegenuinebull-fights,whichusedtotakeplacehere,havenowahandsomeamphitheatreoftheirown,where,whenthesummerhasbroughtthecourttoSanSebastian,thechoicestAndalusianbullscrimsonthesandofthearena.Butthe _PlazadelaConstitución_,mindfulofitspristineglory,stillfurnisheswhatcheapsuggestionsitcanoftheterribleplay.Thesquarebelowwascrowdedwithmenandboys,andevensomehoydenish

girls,manyinfantasticmasksandgaudydominos,whilethetiersofbalconieswerethrongedwitheagerspectators.Astrangeandsavagepealofmusicannouncedthat"thebull"wascoming.Thatmusicwasenoughtomakethehereditarybarbarianbeatinanyheart,but"thebull"!Atthefurthercornerofthe_plaza_,pulledbyalongropeanddrivenbyayellingrabble,camein,ataclumsygallop,anastonishedandscandalizedoldox.Neverdidlivingcreaturebearameekerandlessresentfultemper.

Atfirst,beatenandprickedbyhistormentors,hetoreblindlyroundandroundthe_plaza_,thelongropebywhichhewashelddraggingbehindhim,andsometimes,ashewheeledabout,trippingupandoverturningabunchofthemerrymakers.Thiswasajoytothe

balconies,butdidnotoftenhappen,asthepeoplebelowshowedamarvellousdexterityinskippingovertheropejustintimetoescapeitsswingingblow.Sometimesthepoor,stupidbeastentangledhisownlegs,andthat,too,wasasourceofnoisyglee.But,onthewhole,hewasadisappointingandingloriousox.Hecausednoseriousaccident.Nothingcouldrufflehisdisposition.Thescarletcloakswavedinhiseyesheregardedwithcourteousinterest;heworeonlyalookofgrievedsurprisewhenhewasslappedacrossthefacewithredandyellowbanners;tweaksofthetailheenduredlikeaSocrates,butnowandthenacruelprodfromasharpstickwouldmakehimlowerhishornsandrush,foraninstant,uponthenearestoffender.Thebalconieswouldshoutwiththehopeofsomethingviciousandviolentatlast,butthemobilecrowdbeneathwouldcloseinbetweentheox

andhisassailant,ahundredfreshinsultswoulddiverthisattention,andindeed,hisownimpulsesofwrathwereoftheshortest.Totheendhewashardlyanangryox--onlyapuzzled,baffled,wearyoldcreaturewhocouldnotmakeout,forthelifeofhim,intowhatsortofredandyellowpastureandamongwhatkindofbuzzinghornetshisunluckyhoofshadstrayed.

Finallyhegavetheenigmaupandstoodwrappedinabrownstudyamonghisemboldenedenemies,whoclungtohishornsandtail,tossedchildrenuponhisback,tickledhisnostrilswiththeirhatbrims,and



showeredhimwithindignities.Thebalconiesjoinedinhootinghimoutofthe_plaza_,buthewassopleasedtogothatIdoubtifhumanscornofhisbeastlygentlenessreallyinterferedwithhisappetiteforsupper.Hetrottedawaytothatrudeclangofmusic,thebabieswhoweredancingtoitontheirnurses'armsnotmoreharmlessthanhe.Andalthoughthatworryinghalfhourmayhavetolduponhisnerves,andhislegsmayhaveachedfortheunaccustomedexercise,nobloodwastobeseenuponhim.Itwasallarough-and-tumbleromp,nothingworse,butthebalconieswouldhavelikeditbetterhaditbeenflavoredwithabrokenlegortwo.Afewsprawlingsovertheropereallyamountedtosolittle.Butthe_torodefuego_wastocomethereTuesdayevening,andwhenthisblazingpasteboardbull,withfireworkssplutteringalloverhimfromhornstotail,isdraggedaboutamongthethrong,thereisalwaysafinechanceofexplosions,burnings,andevenofblindingsforlife.

ButCarnivalTuesdayfoundusnolongerinsunnySanSebastian.Wewereshiveringovera_brasero_instoriedBurgos,acitychillasifwiththeverybreathofthepast.AndtheSpanish_brasero_,agreatbrasspanholdingapuddingofashes,plummedwithsparks,underawirescreen,isthecoldestcomfort,themosthypocriticalheater,thathasyetcomemyway.

OurMondayhadbeenspentinamarvellousjourneythroughthe

Pyrenees,whoseruggedsublimitieswerebathedintheveryblueofVelázquez,acold,clear,gloriousblueexpandingallthesoul.Thesearehauntedmountains,withwildlegendsoflonelycastles,wherefierceoldchieftains,beatenbackbytheFranks,shutthemselvesinwiththeirtreasureanddiedlikewoundedlionsintheirlairs.Wepassedfallentowersfromwhosesummitsmediævalheraldshadtrumpetedthesignalforwar,ruinedconventswhencethesoundofwoman'schantingwaswonttostartlethewolvesoftheforest,mysteriouslakesdeepinwhosewatersaresaidtoshinegoldencrownssetwithninepreciouspearls--thoseducalcoronetsthatRomebestoweduponhervassals--craggypathsoncetrodbypilgrims,hermits,jugglers,minstrels,andknights-errant,andshadowypinegroveswhere,whenthewindishigh,theshepherdsstillheartheweepingghostofthe

cruelprincess,whosebeautyanddisdainslewdozensofmenadayuntilherlovewaswonandscorned,sothatshediedoflonging.

WehadreachedBurgosatduskand,withoutpausingforrestorfood,hadsalliedoutforourfirstawe-strickengazeupatthefar-famedcathedraltowers,thenhadignominiouslylostourwayoverandoverinthenarrow,crookedstreetsandbeenfinallymarchedbacktoourhotelbyacompassionate,thoughcontemptuous,policeman.Myartistcomradewasfairlyillbymorningwithaheavycold,butshewouldnothearofmissingthecathedralandsneezedthreeorfourenrapturedhoursawayinitschillmagnificence.AswecametoknowSpanishandSpaniardsbetter,theywouldexclaim"_Jesús,MariayJosé!_"whenwesneezed,thattheevilspiritgiventoticklingnosesmighttakeflight;but

theBurgossacristanwastookeentowastetheseamenitiesonstammeringheretics.Whatwethoughtofthecathedralislittletothepurposeofthischapter.Inaword,however,wethoughtnothingatall;weonlyfelt.ItwasourfirstintroductiontooneofthemonsterchurchesofSpain,anditsverygreatness,theterribleweightofallthatantiquity,sanctity,andbeauty,crushedourunderstanding.Likesleepwalkerswefollowedourguidedownthefrozenlengthofnaveandaislesandcloisters;wewenttheroundofthefifteenchapels,splendidpresence-chamberswherethedeadkeepsculpturedstate;welooked,aswewerebidden,ontheworm-eatentreasure-chestofthe



Cid,ontheclockwhoselife-sizedtenant,Papa-Moscas,usedtoscreamthehourstotheembarrassmentoflong-windedpulpiteers,onthecathedral'scrownoffrettedspireswhosemarvelloustracerywaschiselledbytheangels,andonthe"MostHolyChristofBurgos,"thecrucifiedimagethatbleedseveryFriday.

Fulfilledwithamazement,wesearchedourwaybacktothehotelthroughthesleetyrain,ateashiveringluncheonatthe"_mesaredonda_,"that"roundtable"whichisneverround,andagreedtopostponeouranticipatedvisitstothehauntsoftheCiduntilalessinclementseason.ForofcourseweshouldcomebacktoBurgos.Theproudoldcityseemedtofillallthehorizonofthought.Howhadwelivedsolongwithoutit?Thatthestormyafternoonwasnotfavorabletoexplorationmatteredlittle.Wepeepeddownfromourbalconiesintotheancientstreets,halfexpectingtheexiledCidtocomespurringup,seekingthewelcomewhichwe,likeallthecravenfolkofBurgos,mustrefusehim.

"WithsixtylancesinhistrainmyCidrodeupthetown,Theburghersandtheirdamesfromallthewindowslookingdown;Andthereweretearsineveryeye,andoneachliponeword:'Aworthyvassal--wouldtoGodheservedaworthylord!'Fainwouldtheyshelterhim,butnonedurstyieldtohisdesire.GreatwasthefearthroughBurgostownofKingAlphonso'sire.

SealedwithhisroyalsealhathcomehislettertoforbidAllmentoofferharborageorsuccortomyCid.Andhethatdaredtodisobey,welldidheknowthecost--Hisgoods,hiseyes,stoodforfeited,hissoulandbodylost.AhardandgrievouswordwasthattomenofChristianrace;AndsincetheymightnotgreetmyCid,theyhidthemfromhisface."

Meanwhilethestreetswerealivingpicture-book.Muffledcavaliers,withcloaksdrawnupandhatsdrawndowntillonlythedanceofcoal-blackeyes,fulloffireandfun,wasvisiblebetween,salutedourbalconywithCarnivalimpertinence.Beggarsofbothsexes,equallywoundaboutwithtatteredshawls,reachedupexpectanthandsasifwe

weremadeofSpanishpennies.Afuneralprocessionpassed,withthepalelightoftapers,thechantingofpriests,withpurple-drapedcoffin,andmournerstroopingonfoot--menonly,forinSpainwomenneveraccompanytheirdeadeithertochurchorgrave.Atroopofinfantry,whosedappercostumeoutwentitselfinthelasttouchofbrightgreengloves,dazzledby,andthencameamiscellanyofmaskers.Itwasratherarag-tagshow,takeitallinall--reddevilswithhorns,friarsextremelyfat,caricaturesofEnglishtouristswithtallhatsandperkyblueeye-glasses,giants,dwarfs,tumblers,andevenasorryCidmountedonasorrierBavieca.Buttheclimaxofexcitementwasreachedwhenanovelbull-fightwheeledintoview.Itwasastuffedcalfthistime,setonwheelsandpropelledbyamerryfellowofthetribeofJoseph,ifonemightjudgebyhismulti-colored

attire.Withwhitehood,blackmask,bluedomino,garnetarms,andyellowlegs,hewasascheeryasabitofrainbowoutofthatsombresky.Allthepeopleinsighthastenedtoflockabouthim,policemenlefttheirbeats,andservantmaidstheirdoorways,anitinerantbandofgypsygirlsceasedclashingtheirtambourines,theblindbeggaropenedhiseyes,andthesmallboyswereinecstasies.Foroveranhourthepopulaceplayedwiththatmimicbullinthisonespotunderourwindows,good-humored_caballeros_lendingtheirscarfsandcloakstodelightedurchins,whowouldthrustthesestimulatingobjectsintothecalf'sblandfaceandthenrunfortheirlives,whilethemotley



Masktrundledhispreciousimageinhotpursuitbehindthem.WewereremindedofthescenemonthsafterbyanoldpaintingintheEscorial,depictinganalmostidenticalperformance.Spainisnotalandofchange.

Butthatteeth-chatteringcold,"_unfriodetodoslosdemonios_,"easedourfarewellstoBurgos,andnightfoundusdividingtheprivilegesofasecond-classcarriagewithtwoblack-beardedCastilians,whosleptfoottofootalongtheleather-cushionedseatontheoneside,whilewecopiedtheirexampleontheother.Istartedfrommyfirstdozeatsomehubbubofarrivaltoaskdrowsily,"IsthisMadrid?""Beatpeace,señora!"cooedoneofthesesable-headedneighbors,inthattoneofhumorousindulgencecharacteristicofthedonswhenaddressingwomenandchildren."ItistwelvehoursyettoMadrid.Slumberonwithtranquilheart."Sowelaylikewarriorstakingourrest,withourtravellingrugs,inlieuofmartialcloaks,aboutus,untiltheeastbegantoglowwithroseandfire,revealingableakextentoftreeless,tawnysteppe.

Wehadonlyafewdaystogiveto"thecrownedcity"then,butthosesufficedforbusiness,forafirstacquaintancewiththe_PuertadelSol_anditsradiatingavenues,afirstjoyinthepeerless_MuseodelPrado_,andabrilliantglimpseofCarnival.Wefoundthegreatdriveofthe_Prado_,onAshWednesdayafternoon,reservedforcarriagesand

maskers.Stageswereerectedalongonesideoftheway,andontheothertheparkwascloselysetwithchairs.Stagesandchairswerefilledwithawell-clad,joyousmultitude,divertedawhilefromtheirprettylaborsofshootingrosesandshowering_confetti_bythefascinatingpanoramabeforetheireyes.TheprivilegedlandausthatheldthemiddleoftheroadwereladenwiththeloveliestwomenofCastile.Carriages,horses,andcoachmenwerealladorned,buttheseshowyequipagesonlyservedassettingtothehigh-bredbeautyoftheoccupants.ThecreamofMadridsocietywasthere.Theadultswereelegantlydressed,butnotasmasqueraders.Thechildreninthecarriages,however,wereoftencostumedinthepicturesquehabitsoftheprovinces--thescarletcapandstripedshawloftheCatalanpeasant,theopenvelvetwaistcoat,puffedtrousers,andblueorred

sashoftheValencian,thegaylyembroideredmantleoftheAndalusianmountaineer,thecockedhatandtasselledjacketofthegypsy.Moors,flowergirls,fairies,Frenchlordsandladiesoftheoldrégime,evencourtfoolswithcapandbells,werebrightlyimagedbytheselittlepeople,towhomthemaskersonfootseemedtohaveleftthemonopolyofbeauty.Thefiguresdartingamongthelandaus,inandoutofwhichtheyleapedwithconfidentimpudence,werealmostinvariablygrotesques--smirkingfishwives,staringchimney-sweeps,pucker-mouthedbabies,andscarecrowsofeveryvariety.Politicalsatiresaresternlyforbidden,andamongthefewnationalburlesques,wesawnowhereanyrepresentationofUncleSam.HewashardlyasubjectoftheKingofNonsensethen.

Squeakingandgibbering,themaskers,unrebuked,tookallmannerofsaucyliberties.Astatelyoldgentlemanrosefromhiscushioninacrestedcarriagetoobservehowgallantlyabevyofladieswerebeatingoffwithahailof_confetti_andbonbonsanimploringcavalierwhoranbytheirwheels,andwhenhewouldhaveresumedhisseathefoundhimselfdandledonthekneesofagrinningChinaman.Sometimesaswarmofmaskerswouldbesetafavoritecarriage,climbingupbesidethecoachmanandsnatchinghisreins,standingonthestepsandthrowingkisses,lyingalongthebackandtwittingtheproudestbeautyintheearormakinglovetothehaughtiest.This



all-licensedmasker,withhismonstrousdisguiseandaffectedsqueal,maybeadukeoradoorkeeper.Carnivalisdemocracy.

Meanwhiletheinevitablesmallboy,whoseSpanishvarietyisexceptionallylightofheartandheels,getshisownfunoutoftheoccasionbywhiskingundertheropesintothisreservedavenueanddodginghitherandthitheramongthevehicles,tothefuryofthemountedpolice,whosedutyitistokeepthepublicout.Oneresplendentriderdevotedhisfullenergiesfornearlyanhourtotheunavailingchaseofanimblelittleroguewhoriskedtenofhisninelivesundercoachesandinfrontofhorses'hoofs,butalwaysturneduplaughingwithafingeratthenose.

Yetthisjocunddaydidnotsetwithoutitstragedy.Ahot-temperedMadrileño,abroadwithhiswife,resentedtheattentionspaidherbyoneofthemaskersandshothimdown.Themortallywoundedmanwasfoundtobeaphysicianofhighrepute.Thiswasnottheonlymisadventureoftheafternoon,aladylosingoneeyebytheblowofaflyingsugar-plum.

Ournextnightjourneywaslessfortunatethanourfirst,thoughitshouldberememberedthatourdiscomfortswerepartlyduetoourpersistencyintravellingsecond-class.Thecarriagehaditsfullcomplementofpassengers,andeachofoureightcompanionsbrought

withhimanunlawfulexcessofsmallluggage.Valises,boxes,bundles,sacks,cans,canes,umbrellaswedgedusinoneveryside,whileourownaccumulationofgrips,shawl-straps,hold-alls,andsketchingkitdenieduseventhereliefofindignation.Weallsatboltuprightthenightthroughinanatmospherethatsickensmemory.Notachinkofwindowairwouldthosesensitive_caballeros_endure,whilethesmokeoftheireverpuffingcigarettescloudedthecompartmentwithanuncannyhazethatgrewheavierhourbyhour.Conversation,whichseldomflagged,becameaviolentchorusatthoseintervalswhentheconductorburstinforanotherchapterofhisserialwranglewithafierygentlemanwhorefusedtopayfullfare.Everydoninthecarriage,eventothechubbypriestnoddinginthecoziestcorner,hadanunalterableconvictionastotherightsandwrongsofthat

question,andmenwehadsupposed,fromtheirswayingandsnoring,fastasleep,wouldleaptotheirfeetwhentheconductorentered,flingouttheirhandsinvehementgestures,anddashintothemidstofthevociferousdispute.LazySpaniards,indeed!WebegantowishthatthePeninsulawouldcultivatereposeofmanner.Ourtempersweresorelyshaken,andwhen,inthepalechillofdawn,wearrivedatCordova,sleepless,nauseated,andoutoflovewithhumanity,wehadeveryprospectofpassingawretchedforenoon.

ThusitisIaminclinedtobelievewelaydownunderanorangetreeanddreamedadreamofthe"ArabianNights."OrperhapsitwasonlyanotherfreakoftheCarnival.Atallevents,acupofcoffee,andtheworldwaschanged.Cordova!Amidsummerheat,alandofvineyardsand

olivegroves,palmsandaloes,awhite,unearthlycity,withnarrow,silent,deathlikestreets,peopledonlybydrowsybeggarsandbyglidingmaskersthatseemedmorerealthanthisOrientalpictureinwhichtheymoved,highwallswithgrated,harem-likewindows,andanoccasionalglimpse,throughsomearcheddoorway,intoamarble-floored,rose-waving,fountain-playingpatio,enchantedandmysterious,adreamwithinadream.Cordovaismorethanhaunted.Itisitselfaghost.ThecourtoftheSpanishcaliphs,atoncetheMeccaandtheAthensoftheWest,aholycitywhichcounteditsbathsandmosquesbyhundreds,aseatoflearningwhoseuniversitieswere



renownedformathematicsandphilosophy,chemistry,astronomy,andmedicine,andwithinwhoselibrariesweretreasuredmanuscriptsbyhundredsofthousands,astarofartandpoetry,iteverreproaches,bythislovely,emptyshadow,theChristianbarbarismthatspurnedawaytheMoors.

TheinsultedMosqueofCordovawell-nighmakesMohammedansofusall.EnteringbythestuddedDoorofPardonintothespaciousCourtofOranges,withitsancienttreesandsparklingquintetteoffountains,onepassesonwardundertheArchofBlessingsintoamarbleforestofslender,sculpturedpillars.Thewideworld,fromCarthagetoDamascus,fromJerusalemtoEphesusandRome,wassearchedforthechoicestshaftsofjasper,breccia,alabaster,porphyry,untilonethousandfourhundredpreciouscolumnsborethegloryofrose-redarchesandwonder-roofofgildedandenamelledcedar.Morethanseventhousandhanginglampsofbronze,filledwithperfumedoil,flashedoutthemosaictints,--golds,greens,violets,vermilions,--ofceiling,walls,andpavement.AllthisshiningsanctityculminatedintheMihrâb,orPrayer-Niche,anoctagonalrecesswhoseshell-shapedceilingishollowedfromasingleblockofpurewhitemarble.ThisHolyofHoliesheldtheKoran,boundingoldandpearls,aroundwhichtheFaithfulwerewonttomakeseventurnsupontheirknees,anactofdevotionthathasleftindisputablegroovesinthemarbleofthepavement.

[Illustration:ANARABGATEWAYINBURGOS]

TheChristianconquerorssplashedwhitewashovertheexquisiteceiling,heweddownthepillarsoftheouteraislestogivespaceforafringeofgarishchapels,andevenchoppedawaythreescoreglisteningcolumnsinthecentretomakeroomforanincongruousRenaissancechoir,withanaltarofsilvergiltandabigpinkretablo.Wecouldhavewanderedforendlesshoursamongthestrangehalf-lightsandcoloredshadowsofthatpetrifiedfaithofIslam,marvellingontheprocessesoftime.ItisclaimedthattheArabmosqueroseonthesiteofaRomantemple,whenceMahometdroveforthJanus,tobeinhisownturnexpelledbyChrist.Theraceofthosewho

bowedthemselvesinthisgleaminglabyrinthhasfaredillatSpanishhands.EvennowaMoor,howevercourteousandcultured,isrefusedadmissiontocertainCastilianchurches,astheEscorial.

HowdidweeverpartfromCordova,fromherresplendent,desecratedmosque,herstonelanesofstreets,herhintedpatios,theMoorishmillsandRomanbridgeofheryellowGuadalquivír?Itmustallhavebeenamorningdream,fortheearlyafternoonsawustuckedawayinanothersecond-classcarriagespeedingtowardGranada.

WewereinbeautifulAndalusia,_latierradeMariaSantisima_.ThegreenslopesoftheSierraMorena,plantedtothetopwitholivegroves,watchedthebeginningsofourjourney,andbanksofstrange,

sweetflowers,withglimpsesofMoorishminaretsandgroupsofdark-faced,bright-sashedpeasants,lookingasiftheyhadjuststeppeddownfromanartist'seasel,beguiledusofallphysicaldiscomfortssaveheatandthirst.Whenthesunwasatitssorest,thetraindrewupatatumble-downstation,andwelookedeagerlyforthecustomarywaterseller,withhiscryof"Water!Freshwater!Watercoolerthansnow!"Butitwastoowarmforthisworthytoventureout,andourhopesfastenedonapicturesqueoldmerchantseatedinashaftofcypressshadebesideaheapofgoldenoranges.Thosejuicyglobeswereasighttomaddenalltheparchedmouthsinthetrain,and



imploringvoiceshailedtheproprietorfromwindowafterwindow.Butourvenerablehidalgosmokedhiscigaretteintranquilease,disdainingthevulgaritiesofbarter.Attheverylastmomentwepersuadedaraggedboyinthethrongofbystanderstofetchusahatfulofthefruit.Thenthepeasantlanguidlyarose,followedtheladtoourwindow,namedaninfinitesimalprice,andreceivedhiscoinwiththebowofagrandee.Hewasnohustlerinbusiness,thisAndalusianpatriarch,buthisdignitywasepicandhisorangeswerenectar.

Weshallneverknowwhetherornotwehadanadventurethatevening.Awild-eyedtatterdemalionswunghimselfsuddenlyintoourcompartmentanddemandedourtickets,butasalltheAndalusianslookedtoourunaccustomedviewlikebrigands,wedidnotdiscriminateagainstthisabruptindividual,butyieldedupourstripsofpasteboardwithoutdemur.AswarthyyoungMoorofTangier,theonlyotheroccupantofthecarriage,sharplyrefusedtosurrenderhisownuntiltheintrudershouldproduceaconductor'sbadge,whereuponthestrangersworeingypsy,or"wordstothateffect,"wrenchedopenthedoorandfled,likeJudas,intotheouterdark.TheMoorexcitedlydeclaredtousthatourticketswouldbecalledforatthestationinGranada,thatweshouldhavetopaytheirpricetothegate-keeper,andthatourirregularcollector,hidingsomewherealongthetrain,wouldbeadmittedbythatcorruptofficialtoashareinthespoils.Movedby

ourdismay,thissonofthedesertthrusthisheadthroughthewindowatthenextstop,androaredsolustilyfortheconductorandthecivilguardthat,inatwinkling,therobber,ifhewasarobber,poppedupinthedoorwayagain,likeaJack-in-the-box,andrudelyflungusbackthetickets.Thereuponourbenefactor,ifhewasabenefactor,solemnlychargedusnever,ontheGranadaroad,togiveupanythingtoanybodywhoworenogiltonhiscap.

Moreandmorethepurplemountainswerefoldingusabout,untilatlastwearrivedatGranada,tootiredforathrill.Mr.Gulick'sconstantcare,whichhadsecuredusharborageinMadrid,hadprovidedwelcomehere.Contentinmerewell-being,itwasnotuntilthefollowingafternoonthattouristenterpriserevivedwithinus.Thenwe

somewhatrecklesslywandereddownfromtheAlhambrahillintotheheartofthePeople'sCarnival,asecondSundayoffestivalgivenovertotheenjoymentofthelowerclasses.Thegrotesquecostumeswerecoarserthaneverandthefunwasrougher.Themaskerscrackedwhipsattheotherpromenaders,blewhorns,shookrattles,andstruckaboutthemwithpaintedbladders,butthebalconieswerebrightwiththebewitchinglooksofAndalusianbeauties,eachvyingwiththerestinthrowingthemany-colored_serpentinas_,curlylengthsofpaperthatcrispthemselvesingaudyfettersabouttheircaptives.AsinglebusinesshouseinGranadaclaimedtohavesoldoveramillionofthese,representingavalueofsometenthousanddollars,duringCarnivalweek.SouthernSpainwasgrumblingbitterlyagainsttheGovernmentandthewartaxes,andinSeville,whereataxisputon

masks,theCarnivalhadbeengivenupthisyearaslast;butGranadawouldnotbecheatedofherfrolic.OurstudyofthisclosingphaseoftheCarnivalwascutshortbytherecollectionthatitwas,aboveall,the_fiesta_ofpickpockets.Findingourselves,onthesuperb_PaseodelSalón_,inthemidstofahooting,jostling,half-gypsymob,raineduponwith_confetti_,calleduponinbrokenFrenchandEnglish,presseduponbyboysandbeggars,andhappeningtocatchsightofthestatelybronzestatueofColumbuswhichthewomenofGranadahadrecentlystonedbecause,bydiscoveringAmerica,hebroughtalltheCubantroublesuponSpain,wetookthehintofthewisenavigator's



eyeanddecidedthatwetwostrayYankeesmightbeaswelloffsomewhereelse."Feet,whydoIloveyou?"saytheSpaniards;andsosaidwe,suitingtheactiontotheword.

III

WITHINTHEALHAMBRA

"TheSierraNevada,anenormousdovewhichsheltersunderitsmostspotlesswingsSaracenGranada."--ALARCÓN:_LosSeisVelos_.

Oursurpriseswerebynomeansover.WehadcometoGranadatobaskinthequintessenceofearthlysunshine,andwefoundbleakrains,darkskies,andinfluenza.TheMoorishpalacewasindeedaswonderfulasourlifelongdreamofit,--archedandcolumnedhallsofexquisitefretwork,wallsofarabesquewhereflushesandglintsofcolorlingeryet,ceilingscrustedwithstalactitefiguresoftaperingcaprice,butalltoochill,eveniftheguideswouldceasefromtroubling,fortarryingrevery.Wetarried,nevertheless,wereenraptured,andcaught

cold.WeweredwellinginthevillageontheAlhambrahill,withinthecircuitoftheruinedfortress,inavillakeptbydescendantsoftheMoors,buttheinsolentgrippemicroberespectedneitherancientbloodnorrepublican.Duringthemonthofourresidence,everymemberofthehouseholdwasbroughtlowinturn,andthereweredayswheneventhestubbornYankeesretreatedtotheirpillows,lulledbythehowlingofaswildMarchwindsaseverwhirledthegrasshoppervaneonFaneuilHall.Frombeyondthepartitionsoundedthegroansofourfever-smittenhostess,andfromthekitchenbelowarosethenoiseofbattlebetweenoursturdyhostandtherebelspoonsandsauce-pans.Ifwecouldnotalwaysswallowhisboldexperimentsingruelandporridge,wecouldalwaysenjoytheroarsoflaughterwithwhichthatmerrysilversmithpliedhisunaccustomedlabors.Itissaidthatthere

areonlythreemonthsoftheyearwhenGranadaisfittolivein,andcertainlyFebruaryandMarcharenotofthese.Butourdelightedspiritshadnothoughtofsurrendertoourdiscomfitedbodies.Wewouldnotgoaway.ItisbettertoacheinbeautifulGranadathantobeateaseelsewhere.

Atthefirstpeepofconvalescence,wefledoutofdoorsinsearchofasunbeamanddiscovered,againtooursurprise,thisimmemorialAlhambrahillasyoungasspringtime.Thefamousfragmentsoftowers,withtheirdimlegendsofenchantment,allthosetumbledmassesoftime-worn,saffron-lichenedmasonry,aretragicallyold,yetthetenderpetalsofpeachblossoms,driftingthroughthefragrantair,laypinkasbabytouchesagainstthosehoarypiles.Werestedbeside

manyanancientruinoverclamberedbyredrosebudsorbybranchesladenwiththefreshgoldoforanges,wherethrushespractisedsongsofwelcomeforthenightingales.WeweretooearlyforthesesweetestminstrelsoftheAlhambra,who,liketheMoorsoflongago,wereyearningontheedgeofAfricafortheVegaofGranada.

Oneexpects,shutinbythecrumblingwallsoftheAlhambra,inshadowoftheruddytowers,insoundoftheMoslemfountains,tolivewithdreamsandvisionsforone'scompany,tohavenoassociateslessdignifiedthanthemoonlightcavalcadesofshadowyArabianwarriors,



whomthemountaincavernscastforthatstatedseasonstotrooponcemoreintheirrememberedways,orlustrous-eyed,lute-playingsultanas,or,atleast,acrook-backed,snow-beardedmagician,withawalletfulloftalismans,andfootstepsthatclinklikethegoldofburiedtreasure.Buthereagaintheeternalfactofyouthintheworlddisconcertsallvenerablecalculations.TheAlhambradancesandlaughswithchildren--ragamuffins,mostofthem,butnonethelessradiantwiththepreciousjoyofthemorning.

Theyaregentlelittlepeople,too.ItbecamewellknownonthehillthatwewereAmericans,yetnotapebbleorrudewordfollowedusfromthegroupsofunkemptboysamongwhomwedailypassed.Onceamimicregiment,withadeafeningvarietyofunmusicalinstrumentsandagenuineSpanishflag,chargedonmeroguishlyanddrewupinbattlesquareabouttheirprisoner,butitwasonlytotrollthestaplesongofSpanishadolescence:"Iwanttobeasoldier,"andwhenIhadmunificentlyrewardedthecaptainwithacopper,theyoungstersdoffedtheirvariedheadgear,dippedtheirbannerinmartialsalute,andcontentedlyre-formedtheirranks.Itwasseldomthatwegavemoney,butweusuallycarried_dulces_forthelittleones,who,eventhedirtiest,havetheirownprettystandardofmanners.

Somehalf-dozen_pequeñitos_,notoneofwhomwasclearlyoutofpetticoats,werescamperingoffoneday,forinstance,theirthanks

dulyspoken,andtheirbitsofcandyjustbetweenhandandmouth,whentheyturnedwithoneaccord,asifsuddenlyawareofanabruptnessintheirleave-taking,andtrottedbacktobowthemlow,theirtattersofcapsweepingtheground,andlispwithallSpanishgravity,"Goodafternoon,señora."Onechubbyhidalgotippedoverwiththeprofundityofhisobeisance,buttheothersrightedhimsosolemnlythatthedignityoftheceremonialwasunimpaired.

Thehabitofbegging,thatplagueoftouristresorts,isanincessantnuisanceontheAlhambrahill.Half-growngirlsandyoungwomenwerethemostshamelessandpersistentofourtormentors.Agecanbediscouraged,andbabyhooddiverted,whiletheSpanishboy,ifhisimportunitiesaremetbysmileandjest,willbreakintoalaughin

themidstofhismostpatheticappealsandletyouofftillnexttime.

"AlittlemoneyforourBlessedLady'ssake,señora.Iamstarving."

"Wouldn'tyouratherhaveacigarette?"

"AndthatIwould."

"Thenyouarenotstarving,littlebrother.Runaway.Ihavenocigarettes."

"Butyouhavemoneyforme,señora."

"No,norenoughformyself,notenoughtobuyonetileoftheAlhambra."

"ThenmayGodtakecareofyou!"

"Andofyou!"

[Illustration:PLAYINGATBULL-FIGHT]

Butthewild-haired,jet-eyedgypsygirlfromtheAlbaicínis



impervioustomirthanduntouchedbycourtesy.Shewouldnotdousthehonorofbelievingourword,evenwhenweweretellingthetruth.

"Five_centimos_tobuymeascarletribbon!Five_centimos_!"

"Notto-day,excuseme.Ihavenochange."

"Hoh!Youhavechangeenough.Lookinyourlittlebrownbagandsee."

"Ihavenochange."

"Thengivemea_peseta_.Come,now,awhole_peseta_!"

"ButwhyshouldIgiveyoua_peseta_?"

Thegirlstareslikeanangryhawk.

"Butwhyshouldn'tyou?"Dartingaway,shehustlestogetheragroupoftoddlers,hardlyabletolisp,anddrivesthemontotheattack.

"Beg,Isabelita!Begofthelady,littleConception!Beg,Alfonsito!Beg,beg,beg!Begfive_centimos_,ten_centimos_!Bega_peseta_forusall!"

Andoutpopthetinypalms,andthebabbleofbabyvoicesmakesapleadingmusicintheair.Itisforsuchasthesethatthelittlebrownbaghaslearnedtocarry_dulces_.

Beforethemonthwasoverwehad,inaslow,grippe-chastenedfashion,"doneourBaedeker."WehadourfavoritecourtsandcorridorsinthemagicalmazeoftheMoorishpalace;weknewthegardensandfountainsofthe_Generalife_,eventothatmany-centuriedcypressbeneathwhoseshadetheSultanaZorayawaswonttomeetherAbencerragelover;ourfortuneshadbeentoldinthegypsycavesoftheAlbaicín;wehadvisitedthestatelyRenaissancecathedralwhere,inadimvault,the"CatholicKings,"FerdinandandIsabella,taketheirroyalrest;wehadmadeafirstacquaintancewiththepaintingsofthefire-tempered

Granadine,AlonsoCano,andpaidourdubiousrespectstotheconventofCartuja,withitsover-gorgeousornamentanditshorriblepicturesofSpanishmartyrdomsinflictedbythat"devil'sbride,"ElizabethofEngland.Wehadexploredtheparksandstreetsofthestrangeoldcity,wherewepossessed,accordingtothetermsofSpanishhospitality,severalhouses;butbetterthantheclamoroustownwelikedourownwall-girdledheight,withitssongfulwoodofEnglishelms,plantedbytheDukeofWellington,itsevermurmuringrunletsofclearwater,itsjessaminesandmyrtles,itsArabianNightsofmosqueandtower,anditsfaroutlookoverwhatisperhapsthemostentrancingprospectanyhillofearthcanshow.Thesunsetoftenfoundusleaningovertheiviedwallbeneaththe_TorredelaVela_,thatbell-towerwherethefirstcrosswasraisedaftertheChristian

conquest,gazingforthfromourtrellisedgarden-nookonavastpanoramaofgraycityallquaintlysetwitharchandcupola,ofsweepingplainwithwealthofolivegroves,vineyards,orangeorchards,pomegranates,aloes,andcypresses,boundedbyglisteningranksofsnow-cloakedmountains.FromtheothersideoftheAlhambraplateau,thefallissheertothesilverlineoftheDarro.AcrosstheriverrisestheslopeoftheAlbaicín,oncethechosenresidenceofMoorisharistocracy,butnowdottedover,amidthethicketsofcactusandpricklypear,withwhitewashedentrancestogypsycaves.BeyondallshinetheresplendentsummitsofthegreatSierras.



YetitisstrangehowhomelyaremanyofthememoriesthatspringtolifeinmeatthenameoftheAlhambra,--decorousdonkeys,ladenwithwater-jars,troopingupthenarrowfootpathtotheoldFountainofTears,herdsofgoatsclinginglikefliestotheuprightprecipice,alurkingpeasantdartingoutonhiswifeasshepasseswithaday'searningshiddeninherstockingandholdingherclose,withlaughterandcoaxing,whilehepersistentlysearchesherclothinguntilhefindsandappropriatesthatcopperhoard,andourowncheerylittlehouse-drudgewashingourlineninawaysiderivuletandsinginglikeabirdassherubsandpoundsanunfortunatehandkerchiefbetweentwohaphazardstones:--

"IliketoliveinGranada,ItpleasesmesowellWhenIamfallingasleepatnightTohearthe_Vela_bell."

Thereistheproudyoungmother,too,whomwecameuponbychanceoverbehindtheTowerofthePrincesses,whereherpotof_puchero_wasbubblingaboveaminiaturebonfire,whilethevelvet-eyedbabyboysuckedhisthumbinjoyousexpectation.Sheoftenmadeuswelcome,afterthat,toherhome,--adingystonekitchenandbedroom,unfurnishedsaveforpallet,afewcooking-utensils,achestortwo,

and,fastenedtothewall,agaudyprintof_LaVirgendelasAngustias_,thevenerated_Patrona_ofGranada.Butthiswretchedabode,theremainsofwhatmayoncehavebeenapalace,openedonalordlypleasure-gardenwithwallsinlaidwithpatternsofrainbowtiles,whosebrokenedgeswerehiddenbyrosebushes.TherewerepedestalsandevenfragmentsofimagesinthiswildEden,jetsofsparklingwaterandwalksofvariegatedmarble.Inthecourseofthemonth,EnglishandSpanishcallersclimbedthehilltousandencompasseduswithkindness,butwestillmaintainedourincorrigibletasteforlowsocietyandusedtoholdinformalreceptionsonsunnybenchesforallthetatterdemalionswithinsight.Swarthyboys,weariedwithmuchloafing,wouldthriftilylayasidetheircigarettestofavoruswithconversation,askingmanyquestionsaboutAmerica,

forwhoserecentactiontheygallantlydeclinedtoholdusresponsible."Itwasnottheladiesthatmadethewar,"saidthesemoderncavaliersoftheAlhambra.

Theirespecialspokesmanwasashamblingorphanladofsomefifteensummers,withshrewdandmerryeyes.Nothingpleasedhimbetterthantogiveanornamentalhitchtotheshabby,bright-coloredscarfabouthisthin,brownthroat,andproceedtoexpoundthepoliticalsituation.

"YouadmiretheAlhambra?IsupposeyouhavenopalacesinAmericabecauseyourGovernmentisarepublic.Thatisaverygoodthing.OurGovernmentistheworstpossible.Allthelossfallsonthepoor.All

thegaingoestotherich.ButtherearefewrichinSpain.Americaistherichestcountryofalltheworld.WhenAmericafoughtusitwasasarichman,fedandclothed,fightingapoormanweakfromfamine.Andtherichmantookfromthepoormanallthathehad.Spainhasnothingleft--nothing."

"Oh,don'tsaythat!SpainhastheAlhambra,andbeautifulchurches,beautifulpictures."

"Canoneeatchurchesandpictures,mylady?"



"Andafertilesoil.WhatcountryoutbloomsAndalusia?"

Hishalf-shodfootkickedthebattle-trampledearthoftheimmortalhillcontemptuously.

"Soil!Yes.Alltheworldhassoil.Itservestobeburiedin."

ThisbuddingpoliticiangraceduswithhiscompanyoneSundayafternoon,whenwewentdownintoGranadatoseeareligiousprocession.OurLadyofLourdes,escortedbyadistinguishedtrainofecclesiasticalandcivicdignitaries,withpompofmanyshininglightsandsonorousinstruments,withpealofchurchbellsandincongruouspoppingoffireworks,passedthroughextendedranksofcandle-bearingworshippers,alongthrongedstreets,whereeverybalconywashungwiththenationalredandyellow,totheChurchofMaryMagdalene.Therethesacredguestwasentertainedwithaconcert,andthenceconducted,withthesameprocessionalstate,amidthesamereverentsalutationsofthemultitude,backtoherownniche.Ouryouthfulguideshowedhimselfsodevoutonthisoccasion,kneelingwhenevertheimage,bornealoftinagloryofflowersandtapers,passedus,andgazingoneveryfeatureofthepageantwithlarge-eyedadoration,thatweaskedhim,asweclimbedthehillagain,ifhewouldliketobeapriest.Butheshruggedhisshoulders."TherearebetterChristiansinSpainthanthe

priests,"heanswered.Thesonofthehouse,DonPepe,ayoungmanoffiveandtwenty,whousuallyattendedusonanydifficultexcursion,wasalsofranklyoutspokeninhisdisapprovaloftheclergy.HecouldhardlyholdhiscountenanceinpassingaFranciscanfriar."TherewalkstheruinofSpain,"hemutteredonce,withbitteraccent,turningtoscowlafterthebareheaded,brown-frockedfiguresocommoninGranadastreets.Wehad,indeed,ourownlittlegrudgeagainstthefriars,fortheyweretheonlymenofthecitywhoforcedusoffthenarrowsidewalksoutintotheroughanddirtyroad.AllotherGranadines,fromdandiestogypsies,yieldedusthestripofpavementwithreadycourtesy,butthefriars,threeorfourinIndianfile,wouldpressontheirwaylike

gravenimagesanddriveustotakerefugeamongthedonkeys.

Thisescortofours,formallyaCatholic,wasnomorealoverofStatethanofChurch.Hewaseagertogettoworkintheworldand,findingnofoothold,chargeduphisgrievanceagainsttheGovernment.HewasfirmlypersuadedthatMadridhadsoldtheSantiagoandManilavictoriestoWashingtonforsumsofmoneydown,--deepdowninofficialpockets.Buthistalk,howeverangry,wouldalwaysendinthrowingoutthehandswithagestureofdespair.

"Butwhatuseinrevolutions?Spainistired--tiredoftumult,tiredofbloodshed,tiredofdeceitanddisappointment.Anewgovernmentwouldonlymeantheolddogswithnewcollars.We,thepeople,are

alwaysthebonetobegnawedbare.Whatuseinanything?LetitgoasGodwills."

TheSilvelaandPolaviejaministrycameinduringourstayatGranada,andtheLiberalandRepublicanchorusagainstwhatwasknownastheReactionaryGovernmentswelledloud."ItmeanstheyokeoftheJesuits,"growledourburlyhost.OurAlhambradreamsufferedfrequentjarsfromtheseignobleconfusionsofto-day.WhenweweremusingcomfortablyonthemelancholyfortunesofBoabdil,acheapnewspaperwouldbethrustbeforeoureyeswithaneditorialheaded"Boabdil



Sagasta."Itisalwaysbesttodowhatonemust.Sincewecouldnotbeleftinpeacetotheimaginationofplumycavaliers,starsofMoslemandChristianchivalry,whosowedthismountsothickwithgloriousmemories,weturnedourthoughtstothepoorsoldiersfromCuba,especiallyduringtheweekthroughoutwhichtheyparadedthecitiesofSpaininrag-tagcompaniesunderrudeflagswiththerudermotto:"_HungryRepatriados_."Theirappearancewassowofulthatitbecameaby-word.Achild,pickingupfromagutteronedayamud-stained,dog-earednotebook,criedgleefully,"It'sa_repatriado_."Therewasnoglamourhere,butthecourageandsacrifice,theloveandanguish,heldgood.

GranadahadbornehershareinSpain'slastwarsorrow.SomanyofhersonsweredraftedfortheAntillesthatherangeragainstAmericawaxedhot.Afewmonthsbeforeourarrivaleverystar-spangledbannerthatcouldbehuntedoutinshoporresidencewastrampledandburnedinthepublicsquares.TheWashingtonIrvingHotelhastenedtotakedownitssign,andeventhedriverofitsomnibuswassternlywarnedbythepeopletoerasethoseoffensiveAmericannamesfromhisvehicleonpainofseeingittransformedintoachariotoffire.Ashot,possiblyaccidental,whistledthroughtheofficeoftheEnglishconsul,whowasgiventounderstand,inmorewaysthanone,thatSpainmadelittledifferencebetween"thecloakedenemy"andthefoeinthefield.Meanwhile,monthaftermonth,therecruitsweremarchedtothe

station,andtheCityFathers,whocameinallmunicipaldignitytobidtheladsgodspeed,weresooverwhelmedbytheweepingofthewomenthattheyforgotthecreamoftheirspeeches.

AmongthenewtalesofSpanishvalortoldusontheAlhambrahillwasthis:--

Whenlotsweredrawnformilitaryservice,oneblitheyoungscapegracefoundinhishandafortunatehighnumber,but,walkingawayinfinefeatheroverhisluck,hemetthemotherofafriendofhis,sobbingwildlyasshewent.Hersonhadbeendrafted,andthetwohundreddollarsofredemptionmoneywasasfarbeyondherreachasthosedazzlingcrestsoftheSierraNevadaareabovethelamebeggaratthe

Alhambragate.Thenthekindlyfellow,troubledbyhergriefandmindfulofthefactthat,orphanashewas,hisownpartingwouldbeatnosuchcostoftears,offeredtoserveinherboy'sstead.Herpassionofgratitudecouldnotlethisservicegoallunrecompensed.Poorestofthepoor,shewentaboutamongherhumblefriends,laudinghisdeed,untilshehadcollected,_peseta_by_peseta_,thesumofsixteendollars,whichshethrustintohishandstobuycomfortsforthecampaign.Butanothersobbingmothersoughthimout.Hehadsavedherneighbor'sson;wouldhenotsavehers?Laughingatherlogicandmovedbyherfaithinhim,heanswered:"Iamonlyoneman,señora.Icannotgoinplaceoftwo.Butherearesixteendollars.Ifyoucanfindasubstituteatsuchaprice,themoneyisyours."

Sixteendollarsisafortunetohungerandnakedness,andthesubstitutewasfound.Astheyearworeonthosetwomothersdidnotletthecityforgetitslight-heartedhero,andagreatassemblygatheredatthestationtohonorhisreturn.Aremnantofhiscomradesdescendedfromthetrain,butasforhim,theysaid,hehaddiedinCubaofthefevermonthsbefore.

HiswasnopoeticdeathlikethatoftheAbencerrages.HappyAbencerrages!TheyknewtheAlhambrainthefreshnessofherbeauty.Theirlastupliftedglanceslookeduponthemostexquisiteceilingsin



theworld.Theirbloodleftimmortalstainsonthemarblebaseofthefountain.ButthisyoungSpaniard,inhisobscureCubangrave,onlyoneoutoftheeightythousand,willpromptlybeforgotten._Noimporta._Theremustbesomethingbetterthangloryforthemanwhodoesmorethanhisduty.

[Illustration:THEMOSQUEOFCORDOVA]

IV

AFUNCTIONINGRANADA

"OLoveDivine,CelestialPurity,Pitymycries!Mysoulispronebeforeacloudedthrone.Letthykeenlightarise,PiercethisobscurityAndfreemydream-boundeyes!"--_Ganivet'sLastPoem._

ThecivilizationofSpain,streakedasitiswithOrientalbarbarisms,belatedanddiscouragedastheendofthenineteenthcenturyfindsit,isstillinmanyrespectsfinerthanourown.Ineverythingthatrelatestograceandcharmofsocialintercourse,tothedignifiedexpressionofreverence,compassion,andacknowledgment,Spainputsustotheblush.IwasespeciallytouchedinGranadabythewhole-souledsympathyandvenerationwithwhichthecityrenderedpublichonorstooneofitssons,AngelGanivet,whodiedintheprecedingwinter,apoethardlythirty.

AlthoughIhadglancedoverobituarynoticesofthisSpanishwriterintheParispapers,Ihadbutavagueideaofhisworkandlife,andsought,beforethenightofthememorialceremonies,forfurther

information.Iappealed,firstofall,toourtablewaiter,whosekeenblackeyesinstantlyturnedsadandtender.

"_Pobre!Pobre!_HethrewhimselfintotheriveratRiga,inRussia,wherehewasconsul.Itwasatthecloseofthewar.Andhesuchagenius!Soyoung!SotrueaSpaniard!ButallGranadawillbeatthetheatre.HelefthisplaytoGranada,askingthatitbeseenherefirstofall.Ihaveneverreadhisbooks,butIhavemethiminthestreets,andliftedmyhattohimforawise_caballero_whocaredgreatlyforSpain."

Mynextappealwastoourkindneighbor,theEnglishconsul,whoassuredmelaughinglythathe,likemyself,wasvainlyransackingthe

fewbookstoresofGranadaforGanivet'sworks.

"ThefirsttimeIeverheardthename,"headded,"wassomethreeorfouryearsago,whenInoticedanoldgentlemanstandingofteninfrontofmyhouse,andgazingattheBritishcoat-of-armsabovemydoor.HetoldmeonedaywhenIdrewhimintotalkthathehadanephew,AngelGanivet,roaminginforeignlands.'Buthedoesnotforgethisolduncle,'saidhe.'Ialwaysreceivemylittlepensionprompttotheday,andsoIliketolookattheforeignshieldsaboutthecity,andremembermynephew,faraway,whoremembersme.'That



wasatrifle,ofcourse,butitgavemeakindlyfeelingfortheyoungfellow,andI'msorryhecametosuchanend.Theyfoundhimintheriver,youknow.Idaresayitwassuicide,andlikelyenoughthedefeatofSpainhaditsshareincausinghisdespondency;butnobodyknows.Hewasazealouspatriot,Iunderstand,andallGranadaseemstotakehisdeathtoheart."

MynextauthoritywasanagedGranadine,amanofletters;buthehadnotreadGanivet'sbooks.

"Ihaveheardofhimoften,"hesaid,"butInevermethim.HewasnotmuchinGranada,althoughheseemstohavehadaromanticaffectionfortheplace._Bueno!_Itspomegranatesareworthremembering.ButGanivetlikedtoliveinforeigncountries,withtheideaofunderstandinghisownbetterbycomparison.Hewasyoung;hestillhadhopesforSpain.Eightyyearsareonmyhead,andIhavelongdonewithhoping.Ihaveservedinmycountry'sarmies,IhaveservedinherGovernment,IhaveseenmuchofChurchandState,andsincethenightwhentheymurderedGeneralPrimIhaveseennothinggood.ButGanivethadfaithinthenationalfuture,andthepeople,withoutwaitingtoaskonwhatthatfaithwasfounded,lovehimforit,andmournhislossasifhehadbeentheirbenefactor.Theyareallgoingtopourintothetheatreto-morrownighttohearhissymbolicdrama,thatnotoneinahundredofthemwilltrytounderstand,andthe

hundredthwillgetitallwrong."The"function"tookplaceinthe_GranTeatrodeIsabellaCatólica_,anametoconjurewiththroughoutallSpain,andespeciallyinGranada.Thedaysetfortheperformance,andwidelyadvertisedbynewspapersandpostersforamonthinadvance,wasaWednesday.OnTuesday,inafeverlestwebetoolate,wearrivedattheticketoffice.Wehadourhurryalltoourselves.Apparentlynobodyelsehadasyettakenaseat.Theofficewasempty,saveforusandourattendanttrainofboysandbeggars.

Theofficialincharge,deaf,slow,andcourteous,invitedusintoaprivateroomandgaveusrocking-chairsbythe_brasero_,whilehe,

withpaperandpencil,laboriouslyaddedthepriceofour_entradas_ tothepriceofourmodestbox,andspentfiveminutesinsubtractingtheamountfromthefigureofthesmallbillwehandedhim.Thecountingoutofthechangewasanotherstrainonhisarithmetic,and,afterallthesetoils,wewerestillwithouttickets.Hesaidhewould"writethemoutathome,"andwemightsendsomeoneforthemthenextday.Butheaffablyofferedtoshowusthetheatre,andledusthroughblackpassagestoagreatduskyspace,where,whilehestruckmatchaftermatch,wecouldcatchglimpsesofpitandbalconies,andevenafar-offstage,withagroupofactorsgatheredaboutalamp,rehearsingtheplay.InWednesdaymorning'spaper,however,theyannouncedwithentirenonchalancethattheywerenotreadyyet,andwouldpostponetherepresentationuntilThursday.

OnThursdayeveningthetheatre,chokingfullthoughitwas,hardlypresentedabrilliantappearance.GranadaisnotMadrid,norSeville,andthebesttheGranadineshadtooffertheirdeadpoetwasthetributeoftheirpresenceinsuchguiseastheycouldcommand.Thebig,barnliketheatre,withitsrowsofbrokenlamp-chimneys,lookedshabby,andtherag-tagproportionoftheaudiencewassogreatthatitoverflowedthe_Paraiso_intotheaislesanddoorwaysandallconceivablecorners.Peopleweresojumbledandcrumpledtogetherthat,withreminiscencesofmytraveller'shold-all,Ifoundmyself



wonderingiftheywouldevershakeoutsmoothagain.

Wholefamilieswerethere,fromtheinfantinarmsthatinvariablyscreamedwhentheactorswererecitinganypassageofpeculiardelicacy,tothedozingoldgrandfather,whokeptdroppinghiscigaretteoutofhismouthinawaythatthreatenedtosetusallonfire.Thegentlemen,evenintheboxesandthestalls,weregenerallyungloved,andwedidnotseeadresssuitinthehouse.Cloaksandnecktieswereablazewithcolorasusual,butthemasculinetoiletseludedourstricterobservation;forwhenthecurtainwasup,oureyeswereallforthestage,andbetweenactsyourSpaniardsitswithhatonhead,envelopedinacloudoftobaccosmoke.

ButtheAndalusianladiesmadeamendsforeverything.Bysomeprehistoricagreement,Spanishwomenhaveyieldedtherainbowtothemen,reservingfortheirownattirethequieteleganceofblackorthefestivebeautyofpurewhite.Thedressthatevening,evenintheprincipalboxes,wasconspicuouslysimple.Buttheclearbrunettecomplexions,thedelicatecontours,therichblackhairwornhighandcrownedwithnaturalflowers,thewavingfansandflashingglances,castaglamouroverthewholescene.

Thememorialritesthemselvesmadeupinquantitywhatevertheymightlackinquality,continuingfromeighto'clocktilltwo.Anorchestra,

organizedfromGranadamusiciansforthisoccasion,openedtheprogramme.ThebustofGanivet,wroughtbyayoungGranadasculptor,wasreverentlyunveiled.Thestaractor,FuentesofGranada,whohadundertakenwithhistroupetopresenthisfellow-townsman'sdramapurelyasalaboroflove,readaninterpretationwrittenbyoneofGranada'sleadingcritics.Theorchestrawasinevidenceagain,introducingthefirstact,entitled"Faith."AfterthistheorchestraplayedBretón'sserenade,"IntheAlhambra,"andthecurtainroseforthesecondactonsonaturalascene-paintingofthefamousfortressthattheaudiencewentwildwithenthusiasm,andtheblushingartist,alsoaGranadine,hadtobeliterallyshovedfromthewingsuponthestagetoreceivehisplaudits.

Betweenthesecondact,"Love,"andthelastact,"Death,"camean _andanteelegiaco_,"writtenexpresslyforthisartisticsolemnity"byaGranadacomposer.Here,again,theappreciationoftheaudiencewasunbounded,andnothingwoulddobutthereluctantmastermustleavehisbox,strugglethroughthepackedmultitudetotheconductor'sstand,andtakethebatonhimselfforasecondrenderingfromthefirstchordtothelast.Atthecloseofthethirdacttheorchestradiditspartoncemore,andthecelebrationended,somewhatincongruously,withalivelybitofmoderncomedy.

Therewasimperfectionenough,hadonebeendisposedtolookforit.Thefiftymembersoftheimpromptuorchestrahadhardlybroughtthemselvesintoaccord,theactingwasnotofthebestSpanish

quality,andtheplayershadnothalflearnedtheirparts.Everylongdeclamationwasaduet,theprompter'srapidundertonechargingalongbeneaththeactor'svoicelikeahorsebeneathitsrider.Buttheaudienceunderstood,forgave,weregrateful,andsatwithsublimepatiencethroughthelongpausesbetweentheacts,repeatingonetoanother,"TheysayFuentesisstudyinghisspeeches."Asthecausticoldscholarhadpredicted,mostofthem,apparently,didnottrytounderstandtheallegory.Theyapplaudedtheobviouslypoetictouches,thepalpablydramaticsituations,andwhen,intheAlhambraact,agypsyairwassung,thegalleriesdelightedlycaughtitupand



choruseditoveragain.

Butingeneralthatnondescriptassemblylookedoninpassivegravitywhile_ElEscultordesuAlma_wasrendered,astheirpoethadbidden,intheirowntheatreandforthem.Theymayhavegatheredhintsandsnatchesofthatmysticalmessagefromthedead,whoseloftylook,fixedinshiningmarble,dominatedallthehouse.

TherestlessSpiritofMan,seekingtheperfectTruth,tearshimselfloosefromthebrideofhisyouth,HeavenlyFaith,andwandersinbeggarythroughtheworld.YetTruthforhimcanonlybethechildofhisunionwithFaith,andinpartingfromonehehaspartedfromboth.Inoldage,almostmaddenedbyhiswanderingsandwoes,hemeetshisTruthagain,full-grownandbeautiful,butissofierceandwildinhisdesiretopossessherthatonlyDeathcanreconcilethem--DeathandthatHeavenlyFaithwhocouldnotabandonhim,thoughhehadforsakenher.

Ganivet'smother,who,withhisbrothers,witnessedtheplayfrombehindthescenes,issaidtohaverejoicedinitasalastsolemnassurancefromhersonofhissecurereposeintheCatholicfaithofhisfathers.Itmaynothavemeantsomuchtothatgreataudience,manyofwhomcouldneitherreadnorwrite,butthosetiersupontiersofdarkSpanishfaceswerefullofearnestnessandofaproudcontent.

Howeveritmayhavebaffledtheirheads,thislegacyofaplay,initsAlhambrasetting,spokeclearlytotheirhearts.Oneragamuffinsaidtoanother,asanall-sufficientcriticism,"HewasthinkingofGranadawhenhewroteit."

Afewdayslater,IfoundandeagerlyreadAngelGanivet'smostsignificantbooklet,_Idearium_,publishedintheautumnof1896,inwhichhesetsforthhisdreamforthefutureofhisbelovedcountry.

GanivetclaimsthatthedeepestmoralelementinSpanishcharacterisstoicism,"notthebrutalandheroicstoicismofCato,northesereneandmajesticstoicismofMarcusAurelius,northerigidandextremestoicismofEpictetus,butthenaturalandhumanestoicismofSeneca."

HeholdsthatSeneca,himselfaSpaniard,foundhisphilosophyintheinherentgeniusofthecountry,andonlygavevoicetotheindwellingsoulofSpain.TheSpanishchurch,cherishingthiselement,becameathingapartfromthegeneralCatholicismofEurope.ThelongwarfareandincidentalintercoursewiththeMoorsstampedSpanishChristianitywithitstwoothercharacteristicfeaturesofmysticismandfanaticism."MysticismwaslikeasanctificationofAfricansensuality,andfanaticismwasaturningagainstourselves,whentheReconquestended,ofthefuryaccumulatedduringeightcenturiesofcombat."

Theauthor,_muyespañol_,isnaturally_muycatólico_,yetheprotestsagainstviolenceintherepressionofotherformsof

religion."Libertyshouldbringwithitnofear."HebelievesthatSpainis,aboveall,_suigeneris_,independentandindividual.TherepresentativeSpaniardisafreelance,strivingandconqueringbyhisownimpulseandunderhisowndirection,liketheCidofoldorCortesinthefieldofarms,likeLoyolainthechurch,likeCervantesinletters.HelaysstressontheachievementsofSpanishart--themasterpaintingsofVelázquezandMurillo,themasterdramasofLopedeVegaandCalderon,asexpressing,betterthanpoliticalhistoryhasexpressed,thatintensificationofSpanishliferesultingfromthestruggleagainsttheArabs"andmakingofournationaChristian



Greece."

[Illustration:THECOLUMBUSMONUMENTINGRANADA]

HefindsitlogicalandrightthatSpain,afterhersuccessiveperiodsofRomaninfluence,Visigothicinfluence,Arabinfluence,andhermoderneraofcolonialexpansion,shouldnowabandonforeignpoliciesandconcentrateallhervitalitywithinherownborders.Notbythesword,butbythespirit,wouldhehaveSpainhenceforthholdswayovermankind,andespeciallyovertheSpanish-descendedpeoplesofSouthAmerica.

Hewincesunderthemonopolyoftheterm"American"bythecitizensoftheUnitedStates--"aformidablenation,"headmits,"verypopulous,veryrich,andapparentlyverywellgoverned."Henotes,incontrast,thepovertyandcomparativeanarchyoftheSouthAmericanrepublics,butheurgesstillthattheSpanishcharacter,shapedthroughsucheventfulcenturies,isanentity,clearandfirm,withqualitieswelldefined,whereastheYankeesareyetinthefusingpot.HewouldhaveallthepeoplesofHispaniandescentrecognizeandrealizeinthemselvesthisSpanishindividuality,effectingnotapoliticalunion,buta"confederation,intellectualandspiritual,"whosefirstaimshouldbethepreservationofSpanishideasandideals,andthesecond,thefreegiftofthesetoallthenationsoftheearth.

TheancientgloryofSpain,hesays,hasvanishedlikeadream;letanewandwhiterglorydawn.Hercareerofmaterialconquestisended.Thosesavagestruggleshaveleftherfaintandspent.Lethernowseektoattain,throughpurificationanddiscipline,suchfreshfulnessoflifeasshallinsurethetriumphofherspiritualforces--herferventfaithandherunworldlywisdom."OurUlyssesisDonQuixote."

V

INSIGHTOFTHEGIRALDA

"WewerenearingSeville.Ifelttheeagerthrobbingofmyheart.Sevillehadeverbeenformethesymboloflight,thecityofloveandjoy."--VALDÉS:_LaHermanaSanSulpicio_.

OneofthewisesayingsofAndalusiaruns,"Donotsqueezetheorangetillthejuiceisbitter."Andsowesaidgood-bytoGranadabeforewewerereadytogo,andpersuadedourselves,indefianceofmapsandtime-tables,thatourshortestroutetoSevilleledbyRonda.Theweatherdiditsverybesttodampenourenthusiasmforthiswildestofcragaeries,equallyfamedforromanticbeautyofoutlookand

salubrityofair.MenlivelonginRonda,unless,indeed,theyhitagainstabulletwhilepractisingtheirhereditarytradeof _contrabandista_.Theyhaveasayingthatoctogenariansthereareonlychickens,butoneshouldnotbelieveallthattheysayinRonda.Didwenotclamber,slippingonwetstones,downaprecipitouspathtopeer,fromunderdrippingumbrellas,atwhatourguidedeclaredwasanoldRomanbridge?"Itdoesn'tlookoldanditdoesn'tlookRoman,"wastheartist'sdubiouscomment,butourhighlyrecommendedconductor,aGib,astheEnglish-SpanishnativesofGibraltarRockarecalled,assuredusthatitwasbuiltinthedaysofJuliusCæsar,buthadbeen



wonderfullywellpreserved.Weeyedhimthoughtfully,bearinginmindthathehadalreadypointedoutthestatueofalong-deadpoetasalivingpolitician;butwemeeklycontinuedthroughthelashingraintofollowhislongfootstepsoverthebreakneckwaysofthatnaturalfortresswhereraceafterracehasleftitsautograph.TheRomancolumnsofthechurchmaketheArabcupolaslookyoung,andputtheGothicchoiraltogetheroutofcountenance.Abright-shawledpeasantwoman,whowefondlyhopedmightbeasmuggler'swife,drewusdeliciouswaterfromaRomanwellinaMoorishpatio,whereamediævalkingofgentlememoryusedtodrinkhiswinefromcupswroughtoftheskullsofthoseenemieswhomhehadbeheadedwithhisownsword.Butnotallthis,andmore,couldeffaceourdoubtsofthatRomanbridge,which,indeed,wefound,onabelatedperusalofourguide-books,hadbeenerectedbyaMalagaarchitectinthelastcentury.

ThestreetrabbleofRondawastherudestandfiercestweencounteredanywhereinSpain.Severaltimesourguidewheeledsuddenlytoconfrontsomegypsyishlad,creepingupbehinduswithstoneallreadytothrow,andwhen,ataglintofsunsetthroughthestormyclouds,wetriedtoslipoutunattendedtotheneighboring_alameda_,withitsfar-sweepingprospectoffoldedmountainrangesanditsverticalviewofgorgeandrushingriver,thechildrenactuallyhoundedusbacktothehotel.Theirleaderwasascrofulousboy,withonecheekeatenaway,whohadbeentaughttopresshisfacesocloselyuponstrangers

that,infearofhisopensore,theywouldhastilygivemoneytokeephimback.Hewasamerryscampandgotaworldofsportoutofhissickeningbusiness,laughingatthetopofhisvoicetoseehimself"avoidedlikethesun."

Althoughthetempesthadlulledbyevening,Ronda,stillinhospitable,wouldnotletussleep.Allupanddownthewindow-gratedstreetsounded,frommidnighttomorning,atinklingofguitars.Itwas,forsooth,St.Joseph'sDay,andeveryDonJosé,everyDoñaJosefa,everylittlePepe,everyprettyPepita,mustbesalutedbyaserenade.AllAndalusiansaremusical,takingmuchpleasure,moreover,inoneoftheirownbitsofphilosophy,"Thepoorestplayerhashisuses,forhecanatleastdrivetheratsoutofthehouse."Ratsorno,weleft

Rondabythemorningtrain.

OurcarriagewascrowdedwithseveralSpaniardsanda"Jew-Gib,"who,withoutsaying"_oxtenimoxte_,"assumedfullchargeofusandourbelongingsforthejourney.Thisunceremoniousbutreallyhelpfulescortputeveryoneofhisfellow-travellersthroughasharpcatechismastobirthplace,business,destination,andthelike.Ourturncamefirstofall."YouareEnglish?""WespeakEnglish.""Ha!"Hefellintoourownvernacular."CameaboutthreethousandmilestoSpain?""Acrossthechannel."Hechuckledwithpromptappreciationofthesituationandmendaciouslytranslatedtothecarriageatlarge,"TheladiesaredistinguishedLondoners,ontheirwaytovisitrelativesinSeville,"whereattheAndalusianssmiledsleepilyuponus

andaskedpermissiontosmoke.Weconsentedcheerfully,asourSpanishsistershadtaughtusthatweshould."Ilikeit,"onepallidseñorahadsaidonanearliertrip."Itmakesmesick,yes,butmenoughttobemen."

Wewerejourneyingtowardtheverypalaceofthesun,withgrayranksofolivetreesstandingguardoneitherhand."Andpostedamongthem,likewhitedoves,couldbeseennowandagainafewmillswherethebitteroliveiswonttopouritsjuice."Orangeplantationsandhedgesofthebluishaloe,figtrees,palms,andallmannerofstrange,



tropicalflowersgladdenedourapproachtoSeville.Andwhen,atlast,wesawfromafartheworld-praisedGiralda,theMoorishbell-towerofthecathedral,soaringpinkintoapurplesky,wefeltasifwewerereallyarrivedinfairyland.

OurfriendlyGibputhistallfigurebetweenusandthehowlingpressofswarthyportersandcab-drivers,scolded,expostulated,threatened,pickedouthismen,beatdowntheirprices,calledupapolicemantowitnessthebargainandtakethenumberofourcab,raisedhishat,andvanishedintogratefulmemory.

SixweeksinSeville!AndsixweeksinaSevillehome,whereeveningaftereveningthegayyouthofAndalusialaughedandsang,dancedandrattledthecastanets,andcastaboutourwonderingWesternsoulsstrangewitcheriesfromwhichweshallnevermoregofree.ItwasallasOrientalasadream.TheSultanaoftheSouthliftedhergleamingcoronetofdomesandpinnaclesabovesuchakingdomofidle,deliciousmirthashaspermanentlyunfittedusforconsideringitimportanttodoourduty.OurhereditarybitsofPlymouthRockweremeltedupinthatferventheat.Rightorwrong?"Wherethereismusic,therecanbenoharm."Trueorfalse?

"Inthisworld,mymasters,There'sneithertruthnorlie,

ButallthingstakethecolorOftheglassbeforetheeye."

Onlysixweeks,andyetweshallevergohomesickforSeville,forherpalmtreesandorangegardens,hernarrowstreetslikelanesofshadow,hertiledandstatuedpatios,withcagedbirdssinginganswertotherippleofthefountain,themusicalmidnightcryofher _serenos_,"herblackandburningeyeslikebeaconsinthedark,"hersighingserenaders,"lyricalmosquitoes,"outsidethegratedwindoworbeneaththebalcony,herfragrancesofroseandjessamine,herpoeticsenseofvalues.AhomelessAndalusian,dinnerlessandinrags,strumsonhisguitar,anecessitywhichhewouldnotdreamofsellingforsuchamereluxuryasbread,andishappy.Thereisalwayssunto

sleepin.Therearealwayspiquantfacesandglidingformstogazeafter.Whatmoredoesamortalwant?ExquisiteSeville!Nowonderthatherexiledsonsstillsing,afteryearsof"comfortableliving"inforeigncities:--

"WhenIammissing,huntmedownInAndalusia'spurplelight,Whereallthebeautiesaresobrown,Andallthewitssobright."

YettheoldArabianenchantmentcastsaglamourwhichtheAnglo-Saxonvisiondimlyrecognizesassuchandfaintlystrivesagainst.Totheclearsurveyallisnotcharm.Grace,mirth,andmusic,ontheone

hand,areoffsetbyignorance,suffering,andviceontheother.Manyevilthingsweretoldus,andsomeuglythingswesaw,buttolookonAndalusiaistoloveher,evenwhilerealizingthattolivewithherwouldputthatlovetoaverystringenttest.

ThelordlyGuadalquivír,forinstance,sofairtoseefromthepicture-makingsummitoftheGiralda,ashelingersthroughhisbloomingParadise,forgetfuloftheocean,isnotaltogethergoodly.

"Ay,ay,theblackandstingingflieshebreeds



Toplaguethedecentbodyofmankind!"

TheAndalusianleisurewasaperpetualdelighttous.AtypicalSevilleshopreachesfaralongthestreetfront,withmanyopendoors,andacounterrunningthefulllength.Hereladiessitinpairsandgroups,neversingly,tocheapenfansandmantillas,whilethesmilingsalesmen,cigaretteinhand,shrugandgesticulateandgivebackbanterforbanterasgaylyasifitwereallaholidayfrolic.Scrapsofthegracefulbargainingwouldfloattoourears.

"Isthequalitygood?"

"AsgoodasGod'sblessing."

AmongthetemptingwaresofSevilleareAlbaceteknives,withgorgeoushandlesofinlaidebony,tortoise,orivory.ThepeasantwomenofAndalusiasoresentthechargeofcarryingtheseknivesintheirgartersthattheSevillegamindodgesoffencebyaskingtheminanunnecessarilyloudvoiceiftheycarrygartersintheirknives.Theirascibledamesdonotstanduponfinepointsofrhetoric,however,andwhenthesmallboyhasdeliveredhisshot,hedoeswelltotaketohisheels.Weoncesawoneofthesesturdywomen,whilealineofsoldiers,bristlingwithsteel,washoldingastreet,seizeagallantsonofMarsbytheshoulderandswinghim,amidthelaughterofhis

comrades,outofherpathasifhewereacabbage.Nobodyknewhowtostopher,andshetrudgedserenelyon,herbroadbacktothosehelplessbayonets,downtheforbiddenway.

ThebeggarsofSevillearegentlerthanthoseofRondaandGranada,buthardlylessnumerous.MendicantfiguresarethickasGuadalquivírmosquitoesinmymemoryofAndalusia.SomeofthosepitifulchildrenwillhauntmetillIdie.Therewasaforlornurchin,withfilmy,frightfuleyes,tobeseeninallweatherscrouchingononesideoftheroadleadinguptotheAlhambra,sodullanddrearyalittlefellowthathehardlygraspedthecopperswhentheywerethrustintohisweaklygropinghands,andhardlystayedhismonotonousformulaofentreatyforhisothermonotonousformulaofthanks.Therewasan

idiotchildinSeville--amerelumpofdeformity--thatwouldrushoutuponthestartledstrangerwithaninarticulate,fiercelittleyell,clutchingatcharitywithatiny,twistedclaw.Heseemedtheveryincarnationofchildishwoeandwrong.Almosteveryhanddivedintopocketforhim,andhewasprobablyworthfarmoretohisproprietorsthanhisrivalonthestreet,acraftylittlegirl,withthemostlustrouseyesthatpaintereverdreamed.Theywerenotbluenorgray,butalivinglightinwhichboththosecolorshadbeenmelted.

Theeconomists,whosaysofirmlythat"nothingshouldeverbegiventomendicantchildren,"canhardlyhavehadtheexperienceofseeingMurillo'sowncherubs,theirwingshiddenunderthedirt,flutteringaboutthecarwindowsatAndalusianstations.Ihaveitstillonmy

consciencethatIoccasionallygaveawaymycomrade'sshareofourluncheonaswellasmyown.Shewastooyoungandtoopolitetoreproachme,buttoohungrytobecomfortedbytheassurancethatIreproachedmyself.Sometimesaforeigntraveller,verysureofhisSpanish,wouldattemptremonstrancewiththesesmallnuisances.IrememberonekindlyTeutoninparticular.Commercehadclaimedhimforitsown,butthepredestinedGermanprofessorshoneoutofhismildblueeyes.Aragamuffinhadmountedthecarstepstobegatthewindow,andMeinHerrdeliveredhimsuchalecturethattheyoungsterclungtohisperch,fascinatedwithastonishmentatthenovel



doctrine,untilthetrainwasinalarminglyswiftmotion.

[Illustration:THEALHAMBRA.HALLOFJUSTICE]

"Thisisaverybadhabitofthine.Itoldtheesoamonthago."

"Me,sir?"

"Thee,boy.WhenIpassedoverthisroadlast,thouwertbeggingatthewindows,tomyshameifnottothine.Tut,tut!Gothyways.Lookforwork,work,work."

"Work,sir?"

"Work,boy.Andwhenthouhastfoundit,loveit,anddoitwithawill.Learntoreadandwrite.Washthyfaceandchangethycustoms,andwhenthouartricherthanI,thenwillIgivetheea_peseta_."

Mendicancyisbredofignorance,andintheseventeenandahalfmillionsthatmakeupthepopulationofSpain,morethantwelvemillionsdonotreadnorwrite.

Sevillesight-seeingisnobriefmatter.YoumustclimbtheGiralda,walkintheparks,viewtheyellowedfragmentsoftheancientcity

wall,visitthetobaccofactory,shopin_LasSierpes_,buypotteryinTriana,seethegypsydancesinthecafés,attendtheThursdayrag-fair,doreverencetotheColumbusmanuscriptsinthe_BibliotecaColumbina_,lookupthehauntsofDonJuan,Figaro,PedrotheCruel,andexplorethecurious"HouseofPilate,"which,traditionsays,wasbuiltbyapilgrimnobleaftertheJerusalempattern.YoumustloseyourhearttotheAlcázar,theAlhambraofSeville,astoriedpalaceemboweredinfountain-freshenedgardensofpalmandmagnolia,orangesandcypresses,roseandmyrtle,withshadowyarcadesleadingtomarblebathsandarabesquedpavilions.YoumustfollowMurillofromgallerytogallery,fromchurchtochurch,aboveall,fromthe_HospitaldelaCaridad_,wherehangsixofhisgreatestcompositions,tothe_MuseoProvincial_,whereoverascoreoftheMaster'ssacredworks,lovely

Virgins,longingsaints,deep-eyedChrist-Childs,raintheirsweetinfluence.Andfirst,last,andalways,thereisthecathedral.WehadbeenstunnedatBurgos,blindtoallsavetheMoorishfeaturesofCordova,almostuntouchedbythecoldsplendorsofGranada,buttoSeville,aslatertoToledo,wesurrenderedutterly.Beauty,mystery,sublimity--theseareSevillecathedral.Fivecenturieshavegonetotherearingandenrichingofthosesolemnaislesandawfulchoir.Thecolossalstructure,secondinsizeonlytoSt.Peter's,isamajestybeforewhichLutherhimselfmightwellhavetrembled.WithinaSpanishcathedralonebeginstounderstandthemightyholdofRomanCatholicismonSpain."Ilove,"saysAlarcón,whosejestandearnestareascloselytwinedasfibresofthesameheart,"thecloudsofincensewhichrisetothecupolaoftheCatholictemple,amidthe

harmoniesoftheholyorgan.(ForthisIamnotaProtestant.)"Andelsewhere,writingofhischildhood,hespeaksofreceivinginthecathedralofGuadixallhisfirstimpressionsofartisticbeauty,--beautyofarchitecture,music,painting,processionalsplendors,tissueofgoldandsilver,cunningembroideriesandjewel-work,hisfirstsense,inshort,ofpoetry.Andalltheseimpressionswereinextricablyblentwithhisfirstyearningsofholyaspiration,hisfirstpassionofmysticaldevotion.ButnotevenSevillecathedralcouldwinoverourfullsympathy.Tooheavywerethefacesofthepriestswho"sangthegorigori,"tooselfishthatwigged



andjointeddoll,"OurLadyofKings,"withhersixtygorgeousmantles,afewofwhichwouldhaveclothedallthepoorofAndalusia.Whoshalldrawthelinebetweenfaithandsuperstition?

ButletnotthetouristsupposehecanescapehistyrantBaedekerevenatthetopoftheGiralda.Thereareexcursionsthatmustbetakentopointsofinterestoutsidethecity.MostimperativeofallisthetriptotheruinedRomanamphitheatreofItalica,guardedbythemightynamesofScipioAfricanus,Trajan,Hadrian,andTheodosius.Offwestart,adozenstrong,inagreat,opencarriage,allthewomen-folkwithfansandveilsandwithflowersinthehair.Werattlepastthecathedral,overthebridgetoTrianaandoutintothesweet-breathedcountry,passingmanyapicturesquegroupontheroad,--thesetwopeasants,forexample,withtheiryellow-handledknivesthrustintoscarletgirdles,tossingdiceunderafigtree.Ourmeditationsamongthecrumblingblocksofthatsavageplay-housewouldperhapsinterestthereaderlessthanourluncheon.SuchAndalusiandaintiesasweswallowed,--coldsoupslikemeltedsalads,home-madefigmarmalade,cinnamonpastesofwhichthegypsiesknowthesecret,andsugaredchestnutsoverflowedbyamarvelloussyrupwhereincouldbedetectedflavorsoflemonpeel,orangepeel,andamedleyofspices!Inthatsceneofancientbloodshed,ofthelion'swrathandthemartyr'sanguish,weate,drank,andweremerry,butourbanquettastedofghosts.

VI

PASSIONWEEKINSEVILLE

"AllthatwasgraciouswasbestowedbytheVirgin,andshewasthegiverofallthathumancreaturescouldaskfor.Godfrowned,whileshesmiled;Godchastised,butsheforgave;thislastnotionwasbynomeansastrangeone.Itisacceptedwithalmostabsolutefaithamongthelaboringclassesofthe

ruralpartsofSpain."--GALDÓS:_Marianela_.

HolyweekthrongsSevilletooverflowing.Thedevoutnolongerscourgethemselvesinpublic,sprinklingthepavementswiththeirblood,butSpaniardsflockfromallAndalusia,fromMadrid,andevenfromthenorthernprovincestothesunnycityonthestoriedGuadalquivír.Hotelchargesrunfromtwelvedollarsadayuptoincrediblefigures;amerebedinalodginghousecostsitsthreedollars,fourdollars,orfivedollarsanight,andfortunatearethosewhoenjoythehospitalityofaprivatehome.

TheceremoniesopenedSundaymorningwiththeprocessionofpalms.We

hadbeentoldbyourcathedralguidethedaybeforethatthisprocessionwouldtakeplaceatsevenorhalf-pastsevenatthelatest,andhadaskedthemaidtocallusathalf-pastsix.Asthechimingbellsshouldhavewarnedus,herknockwasanhourtardy,butwhen,breakfastlessandeager,wereachedthecathedralafewminutesaftereight,therewasasyetnosignofaprocession.MasswasbeingsaidintheSagrarioandinseveralchapels,andthemorninglightpouredinthroughtherich-coloredwindowsupongroupsofkneelingfiguresbeforeeveryshrine.Thewomenworeblackmantillas,for,althoughthismostgracefulofheaddressesislosingcreditonthefashionable



promenadesofSeville,andisalmostneverseeninopencarriages,HolyWeekdemandsitofallthefaithful.

Weaskedawhite-robedyoungchoristerwhentheprocessionwouldform.Heansweredwithencouragingprecision,"Intwentyminutes."Weroamedaboutforahalfhourormorethroughthosemajesticspaces,beneaththosesoaringarches,aspirationwroughtinstone,untilbychanceinthatshiftingmultitudewecamefacetofacewithourguideofthedaybefore.Weaskedhowsoontheprocessionwouldform.Hesaid,"Intwentyminutes,"andwewenthomeforcoffee.

Whenwereturnedtheprocessionwasstreamingoutofthecathedralintothestreetofthe_GranCapitán_.Itwassimpleandallthemoreattractiveforthatsimplicity.Thecolorsofstandardsandvestmentsweremainlypurpleandgold,andthelong,yellowfrondsofpalm,blownbythefreshbreezefromtheriver,gleamedbrighterthanthesheenofcandleorofmitre.Turningthecorner,theprocession,nowfacingthebeautifulGiralda,enteredbytheampleDoorofPardon,stillincrustedwithitsArabicdecorations,intotheCourtofOranges,whoseripefruitgavenewtouchesofgoldtothepicture.

Vendersofpalmwerestationedineveryshelteredcorner,sellingtheirwares,morethantwicetheheightofaman,atfifteencentsthefrond,whileboys,dartingaboutwitharmfulsofolive,wereglad

totakeacentthebranch,andnothavethebestoftheirleafystorefilchedfromthembyslyoldwomen,moreintent,liketherestofus,ongettingablessingthandeservingit.

Throughthemultitudetheglitteringpalmsandpurplerobessweptonbackintothecathedral,wherethesilentandremotearchbishop,animageofgoldinhissplendidapparel,shedhisbenedictionnotonlyovertheproudpalms,butovereverysprayof"littlegrayleaves,"likethoseofGethsemane.Theseblessedpalms,sprinkledwithholywaterandwaftingstrangefragrancesofincense,wouldbecarriedhomeandkeptinmyriadbalconiesalltheyearthrough,toprotectthehousefrom"theall-dreadedthunder-stone."

ThatSundayafternoonatfiveo'clockwewereleaningoutexpectantlyfromourhost'sbestbalcony.WiththeconstantSpanishcourtesy,hehadbetakenhimself,withthechildrenofthehousehold,toalesscommandingbalconybelow,andhiseldestsonhadconsideratelywithdrawn,accompaniedbyhisfiancée,toamerespeckofabalconyabove.Thisleftadozenofus,Spanish,English,andAmerican,toenjoyasgoodaviewasthecityaffordedoftheprocessionaltableaux.

Theoblong_PlazadelaConstitución_,thesceneindaysgonebyofmanyatournament,_autodefe_,andbull-fight,isboundedononesidebytheornateRenaissancefaçadeofthecityhall,andontheother,inpart,bytheplainfrontofthecourt-house,beforewhich

criminalsusedtobedonetodeath.Privatedwellings,withtheirtiersofbalconies,oneofwhichhadfallentoourhappylot,crossthewiderendofthe_plaza_,whiletheotheropensintothebrilliantstreetof_LasSierpes_,toonarrowforcarriages,butboastingthegayestshopwindowsandmerriestcafésofallthetown.

The_plaza_,alwaysanimated,fairlyrippledwithexcitementthisPalmSundayafternoon.Thegrandstand,erectedinfrontofthecityhall,wasfilled,althoughmanyofthecamp-chairsandbenchesplacedinthick-setrowsonthefarthersideofthelineofmarchwerenotyet



rented.ThursdayandFridayarethedaysthatdrawthemultitudes.Thecrowdwasbrightwithuniforms,mostconspicuousbeingthesprucewhite-edged,three-corneredhatsanddark-blue,red-facedcoatsofthecivilguard.Vendersofpeanuts,peanutcandy,macaroons,caramels,andallmannerof_dulces_swungtheirbasketsfromonesweet-toothedSpaniardtoanother,whilewiselythewater-sellerwentintheirwake,withtheartisticyellowjaroverhisshoulder.Oneyoungpedlerwasdoingaflourishingbusinessincrabs,thecustomersreceivingthesedelicaciesinoutstretchedpockethandkerchiefs.

Busyasoureyeswerekept,wewereabletolendeartotheexplanationsofourSpanishfriends,whotoldusthatthechurchdignitaries,aftertheprocessionofpalms,tooknoofficialpartintheshowsofPassionWeek,althoughmanyoftheclergybelonged,asindividuals,tothereligiousbrotherhoodsconcerned.ThechurchreservesitsstreetdisplaysforCorpusChristi.Thesebrotherhoods,societiesofancientorigin,andconnectedwithsomechurchorchapel,owndramaticpropertiesoftenofgreatintrinsicvalueandconsiderableantiquity.

FordaysbeforeHolyWeekonemayseethemembersbusyinthechurchesatthetaskofarranginggroupsofsacredfigures,vestedasrichlyaspossibleingarmentsofsilkandvelvet,withornamentsofjewelsandgold,onplatformssoheavythattwenty-fivemen,attheleast,are

neededtocarryeach.Theselittersareescortedthroughtheprincipalstreetsandsquaresofthecitybytheirrespectivesocieties,eachbrotherhoodhavingitsdistinctivedress.Itiscustomaryforevery _cofradia_topresenttwopageants--thefirstinhonorofChrist;thesecond,andmoreimportant,inhonorofMary,towhomchivalrousSpainhasalwaysrenderedsupremehomage;butsometimesthetwotableauxarecombinedintoone.

Afterlongwatchingandwaitingwesaw,fardown_LasSierpes_,thecomingofthefirstprocession.Alineofpolicemarchedinadvancetocleartheroad.Thenappearedalooselyorderedcompanyoffantasticfiguresinbluecapesandbluepeakedcaps,absurdlyhighandreachingdowntotheshoulder,withholescutfortheeyes.Frombeneaththe

capesflowedwhitefrocks,andtheglovesandsandalswerewhite.These"Nazarenes,"wholookedlikeasurvivaloftheCarnival,conductedinsilencealitteruponwhichwaserectedanimageofthecrucifiedChrist,withfaceupliftedasifinprayer.

ThepageanthaltedbeforethedoorsofthecityhalltogreettheAlcalde,whorosefromhisredvelvetchairandbaredhishead.Menuncovered,andpeoplestoodallalongtheroute,butacclamationswerereservedforOurLadyoftheStar.Herattendanttroopwasdressedlikethepreceding,withastarembroideredinwhiteontheshoulderofthebluetunic.Herlitterwasablazewithcandlesandladenwithflowers;heroutsweepingtrainwasupbornebyfourlittlepages,andabrassbandfollowedherwithunceasingmusic.

[Illustration:FILLINGTHEWATER-JARS]

Sunsetcolorswereintheskybeforetheprocessionofthesecondbrotherhoodarrived.Atlast,fardownthe_Sierpes_,theduskwasdottedwiththegleamofmanytapers,andabovethese,mostimpressiveinthedimdistance,glimmeredawhitefigurehighuponthecross.Asthepageantdrewnear,wavesofincenserolledoutupontheair.ThecrashoftrumpetsanddeepboomofdrumsannouncedthatOurLadyoftheAngelswasadvancinguponthesameplatformwithherSon,for



musicinthesePassionWeekprocessionsisalwaysasignofthepresenceoftheVirgin.Thebrothersofthisretinueworeblack,savethattheirpeakedcapswerepurple.

Astwilightgathered,acompanyofstrangedarkshapesborepastinsolemnhushtheMostHolyChristoftheWaters.TheSaviourhunguponthecross,anangelreceivinginagoldencupthebloodfromhiswoundedside.ThenhergreatbannerofwhiteandblueheraldedtheapproachofOurLadyoftheUtterGrief,whopassedwithheraccustomedpompoflightsandmusic,holdingtohereyesahandkerchiefsaidtobeofthemostexquisitelace.

Nighthadfallenwhen,ateighto'clock,amaidleftonvigilcalledusallfromthedinnertabletoseethebeautifulprocessionofwhite-robedfiguresconductingOurFatherJesusoftheSilence.ThefigureofChrist,resplendentingoldandpurple,stoodbeforeHerod,whosemail-cladsoldiersguardedtheprisoner.TheRomancostumesweresowellcopied,andalltheposturesandgroupingssostartlinglynatural,that_vivas_wentupallalongthecrowdedsquare.AsthebanneroftheVirginsalutedtheAlcalde,herattendantsletfalltheirlongwhitetrains,whichsweptoutquitesixyardsbehind,reachingfromonebrothertothenextandyieldingawonderfullyfineeffectintheslowmarch.OurLadyoftheBitterness,towardwhomleanedthetenderlookofSt.John,wasrobedinsuperbbrocade,so

preciousthathertrain,whichstoodstifflyoutbehind,wasguardedbyasoldierwithdrawnsword.

ThisclosedtheceremoniesofPalmSunday,andthethrong,catchingonefromanothertheblithe,sweetAndalusianmelodies,wentsingingsoftlythroughthedarknessontheirvariousways.

AfterPalmSundayasecularquietfelluponSeville,notbrokenuntilWednesday.Atfiveo'clockthisMarchafternoonitwasstillsohotthatfewpeoplewererashenoughtomoveaboutwithouttheshelterofparasols.Sevillianpriests,sombre-robedastheywere,saunteredcheerilyacrossthe_plaza_undersunshadesofthegayesthues,orange,green,azure,red,andusuallyallatonce,buttheshamefaced

Englishmenflappedupbroadumbrellasofanuncompromisingblack.Therewasabreezyflutteroffansonthegrandstand,thewater-sellershadtofilltheirjarsagainandagain,andthemultitudeofsmokers,puffingattheirpapercigarettestocoolthemselves,reallybroughtonaprematuretwilight.

Itwasnearlysevenbeforeascoreofgendarmes,marchingabreast,clearedthewayfortheprocession.Thenappeared,intheusualguise,sometwentyfeetapart,twofilesofthosestrangeshapes,withhigh,peakedcaps,whosevisorsdescendedtothebreast,slowlyadvancing,withanintervalofaboutsixfeetfrommantoman.Theircapsandfrockswereblack,butthelongcapesglowedavividred.Theycarriedthecustomarylightedtapers,sotallthat,whenrestedontheground,

theyreachtotheshoulder.Midwaybetweenthefileswalkedacross-bearer,followedbyaNazarene,whoupliftedthestandardofSt.Andrew'sCrossinredonablackground.Bearersofotherinsigniaoftheorderprecededthegreatlitter,onwhich,underagoldenpalmtree,wasrepresentedbylife-sizeeffigiesthearrestofChristamongHisDisciples,St.Andrewhavingtheforemostplace.Thesecondpageantpresentedbythisbrotherhoodwasaccompaniedbybeviesofwhite-robedboysswingingcensersandchantinganthems.Thencame,ineffulgenceoflight,theMostHolyVirgin,escorted,asifsheweretheearthlyQueenofSpain,byadetachmentoftheCivilGuard,whose



whitetrimmingsandgoldbeltsgleamedinthecandlerays.

Theremainingthree_cofradias_thathadpartintheWednesdayceremoniesexhibitedbutonepageanteach.AtroopinblackandgoldconductedaCalvary,withMaryMotherandMaryMagdalenebothkneelingatthefootofthecross,robedintherichestvelvet.Figuresinwhite,withstripesofred,cameafter,withayetmorecostlyCalvary.Thewell-carvedcrucifixrosefromagildedmound,andOurMotherofHealingworeagoldcrownofexceedingprice.ButthethirdCalvary,allwroughtinblackandgold,thecolorsofthebrotherhood,whichwererepeatedinstandardandcostume,wontheplauditsoftheevening.HereLonginus,theRomancenturion,mountedonaspiritedhorse,wasintheactofpiercingwithhislancetheSaviour'sside.Amid_vivas_and_bravos_thisPassionpicturepassed,likeitspredecessors,incloudsofincenseandpealsofsolemnmusic.

OnThursdaythewearingofblackwasalmostuniversal.WerummagedourshawlstrapsforsomepoorequivalentoftheSpanishblacksilksandblackmantillas.TheCivilGuardwasmoresuperbthaneverinfull-dressuniform,withredvestsandwhitetrousers.Nosoundofwheelswassufferedwithinthecitylimits,andlatearrivalshadtocommittheirluggagetoaporterandfollowhimonfoot.

Atthreeo'clock,intheSagrarioofthecathedral,thearchbishop

washedthefeetofthirteenoldpaupers,whosatintwoconfrontingrows,lookingneataswaxandhappyashoney,eachdressedinabrand-newsuit,withalong-fringeddamasktoweloverhisshoulder.Theiroldbloodhadbeenwarmedbythearchbishop'sownwine,fortheyhadjustcomefromluncheonintheecclesiasticalpalace,wheretheyhadbeenservedbythehighestdignitariesofthechurchandtheproudestnoblesofthecity.Thefunctionoffootwashingwasnottakentooseriously.Thefatcanonssmiledgood-humoredlyontheirarchbishop,ashisgroupofattendantsloweredhimtohiskneesandliftedhimagainbeforeeveryoldmaninturn,andtheacolytesnudgedoneanotherwithboyishmirthovertherheumatic,embarrassedeffortsofthebeneficiariestoputontheirstockings.

AFranciscanfriarmountedthepulpit,however,andturnedthecongregation,thicklysprinkledwithEnglishvisitors,seriousenoughbyasuccinctandfierysermon,saying,inanutshell,thatloveisthegloryofthereligiouslife,butisthefruitonlyofCatholicism,fornowhere,thoughonesearchestheworldover,cantherebefoundaworkofmercy--hospital,asylum,endowedschool,charityofanysortorkind--duetoProtestantism.Andtheoldpaupers,glancingdownattheirnewsuitsandfeelingtheglowoftheirbanquet,weregladtothetipsoftheirpurifiedtoesthattheirlotshadbeencastinCatholicSpain.

Bysixo'clockthesquaresandstreetsalongtheprocessionalroutewerethrongedagain,althoughourSpanishfriendsassuredusthatthe

numberswerelessthanusual.ThewarfeelingkepttheAmericansand,tosomeextent,theEnglishaway,whilemanyoftheSpanishoftheprovinces,whowereaccustomedtotaketheirannualoutinginSevilleduringthe_SemanaSanta_,wereheldathomethisyearbypovertyormourning.

Thefirsttwopageantsoftheafternoon,thoseofthebull-fightersandthecigarette-makers,wereawaitedwithespecialeagerness.FortheseSevillebrotherhoods,morethanthirtyinall,stillmaintainsomethingofthemediævalstructureoftheguilds.JustasinEngland



andFrance,fromtheeleventhtothefifteenthcentury,orthereabouts,organizedcompaniesofcraftsmenusedtopresentinPassionWeeksuccessivescenesfromthelifeofChrist,theseSpanish _cofradias_to-daymaintainsuchgenerallinesofdivisioninperformingasimilarfunction.YetanyCatholicSevillianmay,ifhechooses,secureadmissiontoanyofthesesocieties,irrespectiveofhisoccupation.Theyoung_caballero_whochancedtobeourprimesourceofinformationthisThursdayafternoonwashimselfofaprominentfamily,aprotégéofthearchbishop,andastudentoflaw,yethebelongedtothebrotherhoodofFruitVenders,althoughhisdevotionseemedalittlelanguid,andhehadexcusedhimselfonthisoccasionfromthelongmarchinthebreathlessNazarenegarb.

NotallthebrothersfeelboundtoperformthispenitentialserviceeveryPassionWeek,and,indeed,notallthebrotherhoods.Severalofthemostelaboratepageantsweremissingfromtheranksthisyear.SuchomissionsarenotasdisastroustotheprocessionaleffectastheywouldhavebeeninEngland,forexample,somesixcenturiesago.Thenthegildedandtapestriedplatforms,setonwheels,whichtheprocessionsconductedthroughthestreets,werereallystages,andatthehaltingplacesthebestactorsofeachguildplayeduponitsparticularplatformanappointedscenefromthesacreddrama.Thesequenceofeventswasdulyobserved,andthespectator,standinginmarket-placeoratstreetcorner,whileonetheatreafteranother

rolledbyhim,sawactedoutwithmuchfineryofwardrobeandingenuityofmachinery,withtragicdialogueanddeclamation,relievedbycomicinterludes,alltheBiblestory,fromtherevoltofLucifertotheDayofJudgment.ButmodernSpain,abandoningtheactingandrecitationandsubstitutingpuppetsforlivingmen,hasletslipthedramaticsequence,sothatafewpageantslessmeansonlysomuchabatementinthegeneralsplendorofthespectacle.

Thebull-fightersofAndalusiaareeminentlyreligiousandaresaid,likewise,toberemarkablefortheirdomesticvirtues.Alltheirmanlyfuryislaunchedagainstthebull,andtheyhaveonlygentlenessleftforwivesandchildren.Ihaveheardnobetterargumentforthebullring.Atallevents,these_toreros_,marchingsoberlyinblack,with

yellowbelts,escortedwithwell-orderedsolemnityanimageofthecrucifiedChrist,followedbyaqueenlyeffigyofOurLadyofRefuge,erectbehindterracedranksofcandlesonaflower-strewnlitter,underacostlycanopyofblackvelvetembroideredwithgold.Thecigarette-makerscameafterwiththeirtwopageants,Christfastenedtothepillar,andOurLadyofVictory.

Itwas,asusual,theseconduponwhichthemainexpensehadbeenlavished.Agreatcompanyofacolytes,richlycladandswingingcensersofpuresilver,wentinadvanceoftheVirgin,andthreebandsofmusicfollowedherwithcontinuousacclaim,whilearegimentofsoldiersattendedasaguardofhonor.Immediatelyinfrontofthe _paso_went,surroundedbyofficersandaides,GeneralOchando,his

headuncoveredandhisbreastglitteringwithdecorations,fortheyoungkingofSpainisamemberofthis_cofradia_,andhadsentthedistinguishedmilitarygovernoroftheProvinces,whohasapalaceinSeville,torepresenthim.EspecialenthusiasmwascalledoutbythisimageofMary,forthecigarette-makershadjustpresentedherwithanewmantleatacostofninethousanddollars.Thebrotherswerewillinglyaidedbytheseventhousandwomenwhoworkintheimmensetobaccofactory,theaveragecontributionofeachdonorbeingtwo _centimos_(two-fifthsofacent)aweekduringtheprecedingyear.NowonderthattheVirginseemedtostandproudlyuponhersilvered



pedestal,hergorgeousnewmantlestreamingoutuntilitalmosttouchedtheheadofawhite-vestedgirlwhowalkedbarefootclosebehindthelitter,sofulfillingavowmadeinextremityofillness.

Blackandwhitewerethebannersandcostumesofthethirdprocession,veryeffectivethroughthedeepeningdusk.TheirleadingpageantwasaGethsemane,famousforthebeautyofthecarving.Christisrepresentedinprayerbeforeanangel,whobearsinonehandthecrossandintheotherthecupofbitterness,whilePeter,James,andJohnaresleepingneartheirMaster.ThesePassiongroupsare,withafewexceptionsofstillearlierdate,worksoftheseventeenthcentury,thegloriousperiodofSpanishart,thedayofMurilloandVelázquez.ThemostandbestarefromthehandoftheSevillianMontañés,ofchiefreputeintheSpanishschoolofpolychromesculpture,butthisGethsemanewascarvedbyhisimitator,Roldan,whosedaughter,LaRoldana,isaccreditedwiththefigureoftheangelandwiththereliefsthatadornthepedestal.

AnotherVirgin,who,likealltherest,seemedascintillationofgoldandjewels,sweptby,andanewtroopofNazarenes,thistimeinpurpleandwhite,passedwithtwoaugustpageants,--theDescentfromtheCrossandtheFifthAnguishofMary.Thencametwofilesofash-coloredfigures,whomarshalled,betweentheirrowsofstarrytapers,eachtaperbendingtowarditsopposite,avividpresentation

oftheCrowningwithThorns;and,afterthis,theirMaryoftheValley,notedforthegracioussweetnessofhercountenance.ThisimageisheldtobeoneofMontañés'smasterpiecesinwood-carving.

Fiveprocessionshadnowpassed,withtheirtwopageantseach,andthehourwaslate,butwecouldnotleavethebalconyforanythingsocommonplaceasdinner.Fardownthestreetof_LasSierpes_wavedariveroflights,announcingtheadventofthemostancientofalltheSevillianbrotherhoods,JesusofthePassion.Thecrowded_plaza_roseinreverenceastheCrucifixion_paso_wasborneby,andOurLadyofMercy,toomagnificentforhername,wasgreetedwithrapturousoutcries.

[Illustration:OFFFORTHEWAR]

Justhowandwhenandwheresomethinginthewayoffoodwastaken,Ihardlyknow,butasthis,thelastoftheThursdayeveningprocessions,passedinmusicoutofthe_plaza_,afewofusmadespeedbyadesertedsidestreettothecathedral.Weweretoolateforthe_Miserere_,whichwasjustclosinginthatsurprisinghubbub,thestampingoffeetandbeatingofcanesandchairsagainstthefloor,bywhichSpanishpietyiswontto"punishJudas."ButwetookourstationnearbytheentrancetotheRoyalChapel,whereinhadbeenerectedthegrandHolyWeekmonument,inwhiteandgold,shapedlikeatemple,andshiningwithinnumerablesilverlampsandtaperlights.WithinthismonumenttheHost,commonlyspokenofinSpainas_Su

Majestad_,hadbeensolemnlyplacedthenightbefore,muchasthemediævalchurchusedtolaythecrucifix,withrequiems,undertheHighAltaronGoodFriday,andjoyouslybringitforthagainEastermorning.ButSpanishCatholicismisstrangelyindifferenttodates,buryingtheHostonWednesdayandcelebratingtheResurrectionSaturday.

AlldaylongtheRoyalChapelhadbeenfilledwithrelaysuponrelaysofkneelingworshippers,andthehushtherehadbeensoprofoundthatthehumofthetourist-hauntednaveandthetumultofthestreets



seemedfaintandforeigntothehearing,likesoundsauniverseaway.Beforethischapelentranceallthepageants,astheywereborneinsilencethroughthecathedral,pausedanddidhomagetotheHost.Havingoutstrippedtheprocession,wehadarrivedinseasontowitnessthreeofthesesalutations.TheNazarenes,inpassing,fellupontheirkneesinthelightofthegreat,gleamingmonument,andeachoftheheavyplatformswasslowlyswungaboutsothatitfacedthissymbolofChrist'ssepulchre.

Yettherewassomethingbesidesdevotioninthecathedral.Asthecrowdpressedclose,wefelt,morethanonce,afumblingatourpockets,andthelittleartistlostherpurse.Therestofuscomfortedherbysayingoverandoverthatsheoughttohaveknownbetterthantobringit,andbyseverallyrelatinghowcautiouswehadbeenonourownaccounts.

Itwasharduponelevenwhenwereturnedtothehouse,butthestreetswereallalivewithpeople.Iwenttothebalconyatmidnight,andagainatthestrokeofone,andbothtimeslookeddownupona_plaza_ crossedandrecrossedinalldirectionsbytalkative,eagergroups.Manyoftheserestlesspromenadershadbeenabletogetnolodgings,andwerewalkingtokeepwarm.ThepressureuponthehotelswassogreatthatonedesperatestrangerthisThursdaynightpaidtwentydollarsforacotfromteno'clocktilltwo,andprivatehospitality

wastaxedtoadegreethatnothingbutSpanishcourtesyandgood-naturecouldeverhaveendured.Inthehousewhichharboredus,forinstance,wewereallfittedinascompactlyasthepiecesofapuzzle,whentheunexpectedfriendsbegantoarrive.

OnWednesdaythereappearedfromthefarnorthamanandwife,acquaintancesoftenyearsback.OurhostandhostessgreetedthissurprisepartywithAndalusiansunshineintheirfaces,andyieldeduptheirownroom.Thursdaymorningtherewalkedgaylyinoneoftheson'suniversityclassmatesfromMadrid.DonPepeembracedhimlikeabrother,andsurrenderedthesofa,whichwasallhehadlefttogive.AndthisThursdaymidnight,asacrowningtouch,threemorechumsofcollegedayscameclatteringatthebell.Theirwelcomewasascordial

asifthehouseholdwerepiningforsociety.Thetiredmaids,laughinggleefullyoverthepredicament,contributedtheirownmattressesandpillows,andmadeupbedsonthestudyfloor,whereDonPepecampedoutwithhiscomrades,torisewithaheadachethatlastedfordaysafter.

Bytwoo'clockIhadtakenmystationonthebalconyforanall-nightvigil.Themostofthefamilyboremecompanyforthecogentreasonthattheyhadnowheretosleep,buttheotherguestsofthehouseheldoutforonlyanhourortwo,andthenwentblinkingtotheirrepose.Mymemoryofthenightisstrangelydividedbetweenthedreamlike,unearthlypompsandsplendorsstreamingthroughthesquarebelowandthekindly,cheerypeoplewhocameandwentaboutme.Theseñora,

stillfreshandcharming,althoughshehasweptthedeathsoffourteenoutofhernineteenchildren,wasmerrilyrelating,withwearyheadagainstherhusband'sshoulder,heralmostinsuperabledifficultiesinthewayoffurnishinghertable.Themilkmanroundlydeclaredthatifshewantedadoublequantityofthepreciousfluid(andgoat'smilkatthat),shemustmakeitupwithwater.TherewasnomeattobehadintheCatholiccityduringtheseholydays,andevenherbakerhadforsakenhisovenandgoneofftoseethesights.Andtheblack-beardedseñor,who,likehiswife,hadnotbeeninbedforfortyoddhours,laughedatherandcomfortedher,puffedharderthanever



athiscigarette,androguishlyquotedthesaying,"HewhomGodloveshasahouseinSeville."

Bytwoo'clocktheseatsonthegrandstandwerefillingfast,the _plaza_hummedwithexcitement,thebalconiesresoundedwithsongandlaughter,andthestrongelectriclightsinfrontofthecityhallcastahard,whitebrillianceoverallthescene.Thefryingof _calientes_,anAndalusianversionoftwisteddoughnuts,wasinsavoryprogresshereandthereontheoutskirtsofthethrong,andoureverthoughtfulhostessdidnotfailtokeepherbalconywellsuppliedwiththesecrispdainties.

Thetwinklingoftaperlights,sowarmandyellowunderthosepallidglobesofelectricglare,appearedwhilepeoplewerestillhurryingtotheirplaces;buthundredsuponhundredsofblackandgoldfigureshadpacedbybeforethefirstoftheir_pasos_cameintoview.Fortheseprocessionsofthedawn,_demadrugada_,calloutgreatnumbersofthedevout,whowouldthuskeepthelastwatchwiththeirLord.Theclocksstruckthreeastheleadingpageant,averyancientimageofChrist,bearingasilver-mountedcrossoftortoise-shell,haltedbeforetheAlcalde.AwhitebannerwroughtwithgoldheraldedtheVirgin,whorose,inglisteningattire,fromagoldenlakeoflights.

Thewealthy_cofradia_ofSanLorenzofollowedintheircostlyhabits

ofblackvelvet.They,too,conductedapageantofChristbearingHiscross,oneofthemostbeautifulgroupsofMontañés,thepedestaladornedwithangelsinrelief.TotheChrist,fallingontheViaDolorosa,thebrotherhood,withtheusualdisregardofhistoricpropriety,hadgivenaroyalmantleofermine,embroideredwithgoldandpearls.Alargecompanyofblack-cladwomen,carryingcandles,walkedbehindthe_paso_,ontheirpenitentialmarchofsomeeighthours.Manyofthemwereladiesdelicatelybred,whosediamondssparkledonthebreastoftheapproachingMary.FortheSevillianseñorasareaccustomedtolendtheirmostvaluablegemstotheirfavoriteVirginsforthe_SemanaSanta_,andSanLorenzo'sLadyofGriefissaidtohavewornthisnighttheworthofmillions.Shepassedamidagreatattendantthrong,insuchcloudsofincensethat

theeyecouldbarelycatchtheshimmerofhersilverpedestal,thegleamofthegoldenbroideriesthatalmosthidthevelvetofhermantle,andtheflashesandjetsoflightthatshotfromtheincredibletreasureofjewelsthatshewore.

ThethirdtroopofNazarenes,robedinwhiteandviolet,boreforbannerawhitecrossuponavioletground.TheirChrist-pageantpicturedPilateinhisjudgmentseatintheactofcondemningtheSonofGodtodeath.Jesus,guardedbyarmedsoldiers,calmlyconfrontsthetroubledjudge,atwhosekneewaittwolittlepageswithabasinofwaterandtowels.

AndnowcameoneofthemostgorgeousfeaturesoftheHolyWeek

processions--alegionofRomansoldiers,attiredasneverRomansoldierswere,ingoldgreavesandcrimsontunics,withtoweringsnow-whiteplumes.Butasplendidshowtheymadeas,marchingtodrumandfife,theyfileddown_LasSierpes_andstretched"inneverendingline"acrossthe_plaza_.OurmostHolyMaryofHope,whofollowed,wearingafairwhitetunicandagold-embroideredmantleofgreen,thecolorofthehopefulseason,drownedthememoryofthatsternmilitarymusicinasilverconcertofflutes.

Afterthissumptuousdisplay,thefourthbandofNazarenes,gliding



throughthe_plaza_betweennightanddayintheirgarbofblackandwhite,couldarousebutlittleenthusiasm,althoughtheirCrucifixionwasoneofthemostartistic,andtheirLadyofthePresentationhadherpoorestgarmentoffinesatin.

Apearlylustrewasstealingthroughthesky,andthechillintheairwasthinningtherowsofspectatorsonthegrandstand,whenmysterious,dim-whiteshapes,likeghosts,borebyinuttersilenceapageantofChristfaintingbeneaththeburdenofthecross.ButsoontheclamorofdrumsandfifesusheredinanotherlongarrayofRomansoldiers,arainbowhostinredandpinkandblue,crimsonplumesalternatingwithwhite,andgoldenshieldswithsilver.Theelectriclights,globedhighoverhead,tookonelookatthisfantasticcavalcadeandwentoutwithagasp.

Itwasnowclearday.Canariesbegantosingintheircages,andparrotstoscreamforchocolate.Sleepy-eyedservant-maidsappearedonthebalconies,andmarketwomen,leadinggreen-ladendonkeys,peeredforthfromthesidestreetsintothesquare.Themorninglightmadehavocwiththeglamourofthepageants.Somethingfrankandpracticalinthesunshinestrippedthosecandle-lightedlittersoftheirdignity.Busypeopledodgedthroughtheprocessionlines,andoneNazareneafteranothermightbeseenslippingoutoftheranksandhurryingawkwardly,inhiscumbersomedress,withthehalf-burned

taperunderhisarm,totherefugeofhisownmosquito-nettingandorangetree.Thetiredcrowdgrewcriticalandirreverent,andopenlyrailedupontheVirginofthisghostly_cofradia_becausehervelvetmantlewascomparativelyplain."Bah!howpooritis!Arewetosithereallthenightforsuchstingyshowsasthat?"

Butthelastbrotherhoodinthe_madrugada_processionshad,withtheirwhitefrocksandbluecapsandcapes,suitedthemselvestothecolorsoftheday.Thestumblingchildren,blindwithsleep,whomfatherswerealreadyleadingoffthesquare,turnedbackforadrowsygazeattheresplendenttunicoftheChristintheViaDolorosa _paso_,atunicclaimedtobetherichestofallthegarmentswornbytheeffigiesofJesus.Solovelywasthistroopingcompanyintheir

tintsofskyandcloud,bearingagreatbluebannerandashiningivorycross,thattheybroughtorderanddecorumwiththem.

ThedivisionthatescortedtheVirginmarchedonwithespecialsteadiness,notapeakedcapdrooping,noraboyishacolytefalteringundertheweightofhistallgildedcenser.ThismostHolyMaryofAnguish,whoselitterandcanopywereallofwhiteandgold,sweptbyintriumphalpealsofmusicwhiletheclockswerestrikingsix.Insomementalconfusion,IsaidgoodnighttothepeopleIleftonthebalcony,andgoodmorningtothepeopleImetonthestairs,andatemybreakfastbeforeIwenttobed.

Itseemedasifhumannaturecouldbearnomore;theeyesachedwith

seeing,andphantasmalprocessionswentsweepingthroughourdreams;yetFridayafternoonatfiveo'clockfoundourbalcony,likealltherest,fulltooverflowing.Sometwentythousandpeopleweremassedinthe_plaza_,anditwasestimatedthatoveronehundredthousandwaitedalongthelineofmarch.OurSpanishentertainers,stillunrefreshedbyanychanceforsleep,wereasgaylyandpunctiliouslyattentivetotheirguestsasever,fromourgallanthost,whopresentedtheladieswithfragrantbouquetsofrosesandorangeblossoms,tothelittlepetofthehousehold,whoatthemostengrossingmomentsintheceremonialwouldslipawayfromher



privilegedstandonafootstoolagainsttherailingtosummonanymemberofthepartywhomightbemissingthespectacle.

TheSpanishcolorsfloatedoutfromcityhallandcourt-house,butthegreatconcoursebelowwasallinhuesofmourning,theblackmantillasoftenfallingoverdressesofplainpurple.Theseñoritasinthebalconieshadsubstitutedknotsofblackribbonforthecustomaryflowersinthehair.Jettrimmingsabounded,andthewavingfanswereblack.

Thecomingprocession,wewereassuredoneveryhand,wouldbethemostsolemnofallandthemostsumptuous.ThehabitsoftheNazareneswouldbeofsatin,silk,andvelvet.TheimagesofChristandtheVirginwouldbeattiredwithallpossiblemagnificenceofdamaskandermine,goldandjewels.Brotherhoodwouldviewithbrotherhoodinsplendor,andoneprodigyofluxurywouldsucceedanother.

Theleadingcompany,whosefar-trailingrobescarpetedthestreetwithfineblackvelvet,stoodfortheoliveindustry.This_cofradia_hadbeenpoorandunimportantforgenerations,butinrecentyearsadevotedbrother,amanufacturerofolivepacking-barrels,hadpouredforthhisaccumulatedfortuneuponthesociety,withtheresultthattheir_pasos_arenowsecondinostentationandexpensetonone.Thedonor,longsincetoofeebletobearhistaperintheline,livesin

humbleobscurity,buthisoldheartswellswithjoythisgreatdayoftheyearwhenhesees,followingtheelaboratecarvingoftheCrucifixion,thedazzlingchariotofOurLadyofSolitude.Uponhermantle,whichenjoystheprouddistinctionofbeingtheverycostliestofall,hehaslavishedtwentythousanddollars.Longerbyayardthananyoftheothers,itwasyetunabletofindplaceforallthegoldwhichthezealousNazarenehadgivenforit,andtheresiduewasbestowedaboutthepedestalandcanopy.The_paso_issoheavywithgoldthatitrequiresadoubleforceofmentocarryit;buteachofthesehiddenbearers,gettingairasbesthecanthroughasilverbreathing-tube,issureofadollarforhisrecompenseaswellastwoglassesofgoodwine.

[Illustration:GRANADA.LOOKINGTOWARDTHEDARRO]

Alltheadornmentofthelitterisofpuregold,andsuchwealthofjewelsglintedfromtheVirgin'sgloriousraimentthatatripleforceofCivilGuardswasdetailedforherprotection.Herardentworshipperhasdeniedhernothing.Theverycolumnsthatupholdhercanopyareexquisiteincarving,anditishisyearlypridetoseethathercloudsofincensearethethickest,andhertrainofmusiciansthemostextended,inallthatglitteringline.

Thesecond_cofradia_exhibitedbutasinglepageant,relyingforeffectuponthebeautyofthesculpture.TheMaterDolorosawasbowedinherdesolationatthefootoftheHolyRood,fromwhichhungonly

thewhitefoldsofthewinding-sheet.

Butthethirdbrotherhoodhadbethoughtthemselvestointroduce,betweentheiraustereCrucifixionandtheirshiningimageofMary,anotherpreposterousparadeofRomansoldiers--flower-colored,plume-tossing,butterflycreaturesfartoobright,ifnottoogood,"forhumannature'sdailyfood."OnewhifffromCæsar'sironbreastwouldhaveblownthemawaylikesoapbubbles.

Thesilversmithstroopedbyingraver,moremajesticstate,their



purplevelvethabitsgirdedwithgoldcords.Uponagildedpedestal,wroughtwithhighrelief,wasseentheirChrist,bowedbeneathapreciouscrossoftortoise-shellandsilver.OurLadyofExpectationgleamedwithgoldandgems,andthishaughtybrotherhoodreceivedafullmeedofapplause.

Blackfromtoptotoewasthefifthprocession.TheirJesusoftheViaDolorosabentbeneathasombrecrossofebonyembossedwithgold,buttheblitheyoungvoicesofthecountlesschoir-boys,singinglikebirdsbeforethedawn,usheredinasun-brightimageofMary.

Butsomethingwasamisswiththeprocessionalorder.WherewerethestatelyranksofMontserrat?Alasandalas!Scarcelyhadthisaristocratic_cofradia_goneahundredpacesfromtheirchapelwhen,inthenarrowstreetofMurillo,aleaningcandletouchedthelaceskirtoftheVirginandinstantlyallthefrontofthelitterwasinflames.Itwashardlyamatterofminutes.Fromthebalconiesaboveweredasheddownpailfulsandpitcherfulsofwater.TheNazarenes,wrenchingawaythebluevelvetmantlewondrouslyembroideredingoldwithcastles,lions,and_fleursdelis_,succeededinrescuingaraggedhalfofit,andtheCivilGuards,drawingtheirswordsandformingacircleaboutthesmokinglitter,savedthejewelsfromrobbery.Perhapstheother_paso_,too,ChristoftheConversionofthePenitentThief,hadsomeprotectinginfluence.Butinallthisado

aboutherfinery,thepoorVirgin'sface,belovedforitswinsomelook,wascompletelyburnedaway.InsorryplightOurLadyofMontserratwashurriedbacktoherchapel,andtheswiftrumorofthedisastersentasuperstitioustroublethroughthecity.

Butmoreandmoresolemnlythetaper-bearingtroopsofNazarenespouredbywiththeculminatingpicturesofthePassion.Theselastthree_cofradias_presentedeachasinglepageant.AnescortindarkpurpleconductedanimpressiveDescentfromtheCross.TheVirgin,hercrownedheadbowedinanguish,claspsthedroopingbodyofChristtoherheart,whileJohnandMaryMagdalenelookoninhopelesssorrow.Figuresinblackandwhitecameafter,withtheirsixteenth-centurycarving,ChristoftheDyingBreath,beneaththecrossstandingOur

LadyofTears.Andlastofall,inslow,sadmovement,theirwhitetrainsstreaminglikealineoflightalongthestone-pavedway,passedthesecondbrotherhoodofSanLorenzo,bearingtheMostBlessedVirgininherSolitude.Thegoldofhermantleseemedonewiththegoldofthecandlerays,and,formanyasilentwatcher,thosegliding,gleaming,spiritlikeformswillmoveforeverdownashiningpathinmemory.SoclosedtheHolyWeekprocessions.

"HowsorryIam,"saidourhost,withtheAndalusiantwinkleinhiseye."Itisalmosteleveno'clock.Ladiesandgentlemen,willyoupleasewalkouttodinner?"

OnSaturdaymorningwewentearlytothecathedralfortheclosing

rite.TheSagrariowasthronged.Someoftheseñorashadbroughtlowfoldingchairswiththem,otherssatuponthefloor,butmostofthatinnumerablecongregationkneltorstood.Wewereallfacingthegreatpurpleveilwhichconcealedthehighaltar,withRoldan'sretablooftheDescentfromtheCross.Therewasanhourormoreofexpectation,duringwhichrosariesslippedthroughthefingersofmanyaveilednun,andthesoftmurmurofprayercamefromstrongmenaswellasfrompale-facedwomen.Suddenly,whileashockofthundercrashedfromtheorgan,hiddenministrantssharplydrewonhiddencords,thepurplecurtainpartedinthemidst,andthetwofoldsrolledasunder,



revealingthehighaltar,withitscarvingoftheaccomplishedPassion.Theorganpouredforthjubileesofvictory,allthebellsofthecathedralpealedtogether,_GloriainExcelsis_soaredinchoralchant,andamidtheawe-strickenmultitudesfallentotheirknees,_SuMajestad_wasborneinpriestlyprocessionfromthetombintheRoyalChapeltothecandlesandincensewhichawaitedatthehighaltarthattriumphalcoming.

EasterSundaywascelebratedbyabull-fight.

VII

TRACESOFTHEINQUISITION

"IlivealifemoregreatthanI.ThelifeIhopeislifesohigh,IdiebecauseIcannotdie."--_SantaTeresadeJesús._

AllSpaniardsveneratethenameof_IsabellaCatólica_,noristhe

impressionableDeAmicistheonlyforeignerwhohastrembledandweptatGranadabeforetheenshrinedmemorials,jewelbox,mirror,missal,andcrown,ofherroyalwomanhood.SheisapreciousfigureinSpain'ssunsetrevery--asaintbeneathaconqueringstandard,asilkenladyinasoldier'stent.Yetthispeerlessqueen,merciful,magnanimous,devout,"theshieldoftheinnocent,"caringsupremelyforthegloryofGodandthegoodofhercountry,gaveconsent,albeitreluctant,totheestablishmentoftheInquisition,Christianity'schiefscandalandSpain'smostfatalblight.SoironicwerethestarsofIsabel.

TheInquisition,itistrue,originatedinItalyearlyinthethirteenthcenturyandfollowedtheflightofsomeoftheAlbigensesintoAragon,butitsworkinSpainhadbeencomparativelyslightand

mercifuluntilthe"CatholicKings,"intheinterestsofreligiousreform,forthepurificationofthenationalfaith,letitshorrorsloose.WhereveronemovesinSpainthesickeningbreathofthe_autodefe_lingersintheair.Insuchasquare,weread,wasonceamightybonfireofJews;beneathourfeet,wearetold,isamassofhumanbonesandcinders.ThissunshinySeville,withherparksandpatios,herpalmsandorangegroves,acityseeminglyfashionedonlyforloveandsong,hadherarmyofnearlytwoscorethousandmartyrs,who,dressedinthehateful_SanBenitos_,yellowcoatspaintedwithflamesanddevils,wereburnedtodeathhereinourgay_PlazadelaConstitución_,thenknownasthe_PlazadeSanFrancisco_,andinthe _Quemadero_beyondthewalls.Asonemingleswithsomeoutdoorthrong,allintentonpageant,dance,orotherspectacle,oneshuddersto

rememberthatjustsuchdark,eagerfaceswereringedabouttheagoniesofthoseheroicvictims.FortherearetwosidestotheSpanishInquisition.IfSpaniardsweretheinquisitors,Spaniards,too,werethedauntlesssufferers.Thesombregazeofthetorturerwasmet,assteelmeetsiron,bytheunflinchingeyeofthetortured.But"theunimaginabletouchofTime"transformsalltragedytobeauty,andredpoppies,blowingonthegrassyplainofthe_Quemadero_,translateintopoetryto-daythattaleofblazingfagots.

Sometimesthevictimswereofforeignblood.Hakluythaspreservedthe



simplenarrativesoftwoEnglishsailors,whowerebroughtbytheirSpanishcaptorsfromtheIndiesasasacrificetotheHolyHouseofSeville.One,ahappy-go-luckyfellow,MilesPhillips,whohadbeentoowellacquaintedinMexicowiththedungeonsoftheInquisition,slippedovertheship'ssideatSanLúcar,madehiswaytoshore,andboldlywenttoSeville,wherehelivedahiddenlifeasasilk-weaver,untilhefoundhischancetostealawayandboardaDevonmerchantman.Theother,JobHortop,addedtohistwoyearsofMexicanimprisonmenttwomoreyearsinSeville.Then"theybroughtusoutinprocession,everyoneofushavingacandleinhishand,andthecoatwithS.Andrew'scrossonourbacks;theybroughtusuponanhighscaffold,thatwassetupintheplaceofS.Francis,whichisinthechiefstreetofSeville;theretheysetusdownuponbenches,everyoneinhisdegree,andagainstusonanotherscaffoldsatealltheJudgesandtheClergyontheirbenches.Thepeoplewondered,andgazedonus,somepityingourcase,otherssaid,burnthoseheretics.Whenwehadsattheretwohours,wehadasermonmadetous,afterwhichonecalledBresinia,secretarytotheInquisition,wentupintothepulpitwiththeprocess,andcalledRobertBarret,ship-master,andJohnGilbert,whomtwoFamiliarsoftheInquisitionbroughtfromthescaffoldbeforetheJudges,wherethesecretaryreadthesentence,whichwasthattheyshouldbeburnt,andsotheyreturnedtothescaffold,andwereburnt.

"ThenI,JobHortop,andJohnBone,werecalled,andbroughttotheplace,asbefore,whenweheardoursentence,whichwas,thatweshouldgototheGalleys,andtheretorowattheoar'sendtenyears,andthentobebroughtbacktotheInquisitionHouse,tohavethecoatwithS.Andrew'scrossputonourbacks,andfromthencetogototheeverlastingprisonremediless.

"IwiththerestweresenttotheGalleys,wherewewerechainedfourandfourtogether....Hunger,thirst,cold,andstripeswelackednone,tillourseveraltimesexpired,andafterthetimeoftwelveyears,forIservedtwoyearsabovemysentence,IwassentbacktotheInquisitionHouseinSeville,andtherehavingputonthecoatwithS.Andrew'scross,Iwassenttotheeverlastingprison

remediless,whereIworethecoatfouryears,andthenupongreatsuitIhadittakenoffforfiftyduckets,whichHernandodeSoria,treasureroftheking'smint,lentme,whomIwastoserveforitasadrudgesevenyears."

Butthisvictim,too,escapedinafly-boatatlast,andonacertainChristmasEve,aboutthetimewhenpeopleinLondonwerebeginningtolikethecomediesofacertainpoorplayer,oneWillShakespeare,didJobHortop,Powder-makerandGunner,walkquietly,aftertwenty-threeyearsofmartyrdom,intothevillageofRedcliffe,wherehehadbeenaruddyEnglishboywithnodreamofthedaywhenheshouldbe"prestforth"bySirJohnHawkinsandcompelled,soreagainsthiswill,toembarkfortheWestIndianadventure.

ReligiouslibertynowexistsunderthelawsofSpain,althoughtheadministrationofthoselawsleavesmuchtobedesired.InthreeoldconventualchurchesofSevillegatherherthreeProtestantcongregations.Beneaththepavementsoftwoofthesehereticstrongholdsoldinquisitorssleepwhatuneasysleeptheymay,whileoneoftheProtestantpastors,formerlyaCatholicpriest,hasquietlycollectedandstoredinhischurch-studynumerousmementosoftheHolyOffice.Heremaybeseentwoofthoserarecopiesofthe1602revisionoftheSpanishBible,byCiprianodeValera,whomtheInquisition



couldburnonlyineffigy,sincethetranslator,whohadprintedhisbookinAmsterdam,didnotreturntoaccompanytheFamiliarstothe _Quemadero_.Hereareoldbookswithhorriblewoodcutsofthetorments,andtime-stainedmanuscripts,severalbearingthesealandsignaturesofthe"CatholicKings,"theselastsoillwrittenthatitishardtotellthenameofFerdinandfromthatofIsabella.Amongtheseareroyalcommissions,orlicenses,grantedtoindividualinquisitors,recordsof_autosdefe_,andwillsofrichinquisitors,thesourcesofwhosewealthwouldhardlycourtastrictexamination.Here,too,isthestandardoftheHolyOffice,theverybannerbornethroughSevilleinthosegrimprocessions.Itswhitesilkissaffronednow,butthestrangesealoftheInquisition,ableedingChristuponthecross,isclearlyblazonedinthecentre,whilethefourcornersshowthesealofSanDomingo.

TheInquisitionprison,thedreadedHolyHouseofSeville,isusedasafactoryatpresent,andheresynolongersecuresadmissionthere;butIlookedupatitsgratedwindows,andthen,withasecretshiver,downontheground,wheretheSpanishpastorofantiquariantasteswasmarkingoutwithhiscanethedirectionsofthefar-branchingsubterraneancells.Weslippedintoanoutercourtofthe_fabrica_,wherethetwogentlemen,effectivelyaidedbyacoupleofsturdylads,priedupandflungbackasullendoorinthepavementandinvitedmetogropemydarklingwaydownsometwentycrumblingsteps,overgrown

withatreacherousgreenmould.Therewasnorefusing,infaceofthecloudofwitnesseswhosegroansthesestoneshadheard,andItookaheart-breakingplungeintothehoneycombofchill,foul-smelling,horror-haunteddungeons,whoseroofsletfallaconstantdripofwaterandfromwhoseblackrecessesIwastheunwillingmeansofliberatingachoicevarietyofinsects.

"Butevenyetonecannotcallone'sselfaProtestantinSpain,youknow,"saidanEnglishdiplomattousinanothercityofAndalusia."It'snotsociallyrespectable.SpanishProtestantsaretheveryscumoftheearth--illiterate,dirty,boorish.Youcouldn'tassociatewiththemforaminute."

"ButthatSpanishpastorwhocalledonusyesterdaywasentirelyagentleman,"weremonstrated."HehasstudiedforsevenyearsinSwitzerlandandScotland,seemsmoreopen-mindedandintelligentthanmostSpaniardswehavemet,andwassocourteousandgracefulinhisbearing--nottomentionthewhitenessofhislinen--andsoentertaininginhistalk,thattheSpanishladiesintheroomchorussedhispraises,afterhehadbowedhimselfout,anddeclaredhimmostdelightfulcompany."

Thediplomattwirledhismustacheandsmiled,asonlydiplomatscan."AndyouownedupthathewasaProtestant?Andtheirfacesdarkenedasifastorm-cloudhadblownoverfromtheSierras?"

"Preciselyso,"weadmitted,"andafterthatthebesttheycouldsayforhimwasthattheyneverwouldhavethoughtit."

Thediplomatclaimedthathehadmadehispoint,whileweprotestedthattheincidentonlywenttoshowhowunreasonablewastheprejudiceofwhoseexistencethroughoutSpaintherecanbenomannerofdoubt.

PerezGaldós,forinstance,themostpopularnovelistoftheday,statedtoanAmericanfriend,whorepeatedittous,thathefranklycouldnotaffordtointroducethefigureofaProtestantintooneof



hisstories."Itwouldnotonlykillthatbook,"hesaid,"butitwouldhurtthesaleofeverythingIhaveinthemarketandembarrassallmyfutureundertakings.Ishouldsimplyberiskingthelossofmyreadingpublic."AndyetSeñorGaldósistheauthorof"DoñaPerfecta,"thatartisticstudyoftheconflictbetweennewideasandoldinSpain.Inthissignificantnovel,acivilengineer,amanofthirty,whosescientificeducationinthelargecitiesofSevilleandMadridhasbeensupplementedbystudyinGermanyandEngland,comestooneofthosemediævaltowns,orcorpsesoftowns,thatrisesospectre-likefromtheash-coloredplainsofOldCastile.Crumblingwallsandblackenedtowersjealouslyguardthelifeofagessince,thatfeudallifeofhighandlow,prideofstation,prideofanimalprowess,prideofholiness,prideofidleness,prideofignorance;thelifeofsuperstition,offamilyexclusivenessresultinginintermarriagetothepointofinsanity;ofthatfiercelocalbigotry,peculiarlySpanish,whichdreadsandhatesallforeignintrusion.Thestreets,devoidofbusinessactivity,swarmwithvigorousmendicants,whohavenobettershift,whentimesgrowhard,thantodeformthechildrenwhoareborntothemlikekittensintheirmud-walledhovels.Thecasino,wherehalfthetownsmokeshalfitstimeaway,humswithmaliciousgossip.TheuniversitylanguidlypursuesthestudiesofLatin,scholasticdivinity,Churchhistory,andallthatsavorsofthepast.UnderthegrayvaultofthecathedralwomenkneelbeforetheimageoftheChristChild,bringingHimanewpairofembroidered

pantaletsandentreatingofHisrosysimplicitywhattheywouldnotdareaskfromthe"EcceHomo";ortheykissthesatin-slipperedfeetofthemiracle-workingVirginandvowher,iftheirprayerisgranted,sevenbrightnewswordsofthefinestToledoworkmanshiptopierceherpatientheart.Themanofscientifictraining,freshfromthemodernworld,isbroughtintosharpcollisionwiththisdimoldtown.Highprinciplesandessential,spiritualChristianitycounthimfornothing;heisspeedilydenouncedasnobetterthan"amurderer,anatheist,oraProtestant,"andhisstrongyounglifeisactuallybeatenoutbythatblind,terribleforceofSpanishfanaticism.Sofarthenovelistcango;suchaherohedarespaint;butnotaProtestant.

ThenotionsofProtestantismprevalentamongthepeople,notthe

peasantsonly,butthegentry,arelittleshortofludicrous.Ablack-eyedladyofCadizwasamazedatourassertionthatProtestantsprayed.AMadridseñoritaaskedus,infriendlyconfidence,ifitweretruethatProtestants"deniedChristandspatontheVirgin."ThepopularidentificationofProtestantismwithallthatisimpiousandcriminalweencounteredasearlyasoursecondafternooninSpain.Wewerevisiting,inthepicturesquefishing-hamletofPasajes,agauntBasquechurch,wheretheolddamewhoservedascaretakershowedusawaxenimageofasleepinggirl,said,notwithoutprobability,tohavebeenbroughtfromRome.Beneaththefigureisaburialstone,whoseinscriptionwouldlocateitintheCatacombs.WhenfriendsofourswereatPasajessomethreeyearsbefore,thegrandam'sstoryranthattheimagewasthelikenessofaChristianmartyr,slainbyherpagan

fatheratRomeinthetimeoftheImperialpersecutions;butthetalegliblyrecitedtouswasthis:"_Aydemi!_Thepooryounglady!HerfatherwasaProtestant,and,ofcourse,hatedreligion,andwhenhisdaughter,sobeautiful,wasonherwaytoherfirstcommunion,hehidbehindacorner,withanaxe,andofasuddenjumpedoutonherandstruckherdead."

ItissuchprejudicethatgoesfartowardjustifyingthemaintenancebyforeignsocietiesofProtestantchurchesinSpain.Theycannotstandalone,infaceofallthishostility,andyetthecountryhas



needofthem.NoEuropeannationcannowadaysbeshutintoanysinglechannelofreligiouslife,anddoubtless,apartfromallquestionsofcreed,thereareSpanishtemperamentstowhichthesimpler_culto_ismorenaturalthantheelaborateritualofRome;but,waivingdiscussionastotherelativegiftsandgracesofthesetwogreatdivisionsofChrist'sfellowship,thenewseemsessential,notforitselfalone,butasastimulusandcorrectivetotheold.TimemaymakeitclearthatapurifiedRomanCatholicismisbettersuitedtotheLatinracesingeneralthanplainerritesandlesssymbolicworship,butthereareheavycountsagainsttheRomanCatholicChurchasitexistsinSpain.Theprivatelivesoftheclergy,asaclass,havebeensoopentoreproachthateventhefinger-gamesandnonsensesongsofthelittlechildren,learnedwiththeirbabylispings,mockpriestlyimmorality.TheChurch,stewardofuntoldwealth,hasendowedmanycharities,butthefundamentaltrustofknowledgeithasmostsluggishlyandinadequatelydispensed.SantiagodeCompostela,forexample,isaverynestofreligiousfoundations.Thirty-sixChristianfraternitiesaregatheredthere,yetweweretoldongoodauthoritythatnotonepeasantinahundredofthosewithinhearingofSantiago'sfivescoreandfourteenholybellscanreadandwrite.InmattersofState,theChurchhasutterlylosttheallegianceoftheprogressivepartyand,toalargeextent,thepoliticalconfidenceofthenation.AsSpaniardsstudythehistoryoftheircountry,theyrealizemoreandmorethathercolossalmistakesandmisfortuneshave

beendueinlargemeasuretoJesuitandDominicalpolicy--tothefatherconfessorintheroyalchamber,theinquisitorinshadowofthethrone.WithreferencetothesuccessoftheChurchinpromotingspirituallife,abeautifulyoungnun,hereyesglisteninglikehappystars,assuredusthattherewasmoredevotioninCatholicSpainthaninalltherestofChristendom.Ascientistofrepute,hisvoicechokingwithgriefandwrath,declaredtousthatthefettersofsuperstitionhadbecomehopelesslyriveted,duringtheseagesofChurchcontrol,ontheSpanishmind.Butcallitwhatyouwill,devotionorsuperstition,andadmitting,asthetouristmust,thatitisamostconspicuousandimpressivefeatureofSpanishlife,thereareneverthelessthousandsofSpaniards,especiallytheyoungermen,overwhomithaslostsway.Thesearethe_indiferentes_,manyofwhom

mightfind,assomehavefound,inafreshpresentationofChristianity,theGodwardimpetuswhichtheynolongergainfromtheChurchofRome.

Themostcheerful_indiferente_IencounteredinSpainwasawhimsicaloldphilosopher,wellonhiswaytothenineties,yetsobriskandhardyasalmosttoviewithBorrow'sPortuguesedamewhosehair"wasbecominggray"afteralifeofonehundredandtenyears.Hishair,indeed,iswhite,andextremeagehaswrittenitsdeformingmarksonfaceandfigure,yetherunsupthesteepeststairs,readsthefinestprint,fillshisdayswithaclosesuccessionoflaborsandamusements,andscoffsatreligionasairilyasifDeathhadpassedhimonthecrowdedwayandwouldneverturnbacktolookforhim

again.

Atourfirstmeetingheoffered,withcharacteristickindness,tocomeandreadSpanishwithme.AsIhadinvadedSpainfortheexpresspurposeofstudyingtheSpanishdrama,ItookavolumeofCalderonfrommytrunkandhopefullyawaitedhisvisit.ButitwasamatterofseveralvisitsbeforeIcouldopenmyCalderon.Thejauntyoldcavalierarrived,brimmingoverwithchatandanecdote,andwhenatlastIhintedatthereading,producedwithpridefromhisinnercoatpocketalittle,paper-bound_geografia_thathehadwrittenhimself



foruseintheSpanishschools,andproceededtoregalemewithextractsfromitspages.Ilookedseverelyatthelittleartist,whoseeyesweredancinginademureface,andendeavoredtoprofitbythisunexpectedcourseofinstruction.Theauthorchuckledmuchoverhissagacityinhavingarrangedthesubject-matterofhisbookinparagraphsandnotbyquestionandanswer.Inthelattercase,heexplained,thechildrenwouldlearntheanswerswithoutreadingthequestions,aprocessboundtoresultingeographicalconfusion.Thelittlevolume,asisthewontofschoolbooksinotherlands,tendedtogivetoitsstudentsadisproportionateideaoftheimportanceoftheirowncountry.Spainandhercoloniesweretreatedinseventypages,GreatBritainandhercoloniesinthree,Franceinfour,whileAmerica,fromGreenlandtoPatagonia,washandledasasingleentity,onefigureeach,andthoseabsurdlysmall,beingsetfor"herpopulation,army,andnavy."The_ConfederacióndelosEstadosUnidos_ wasbarelymentionedasoneofthefive"States"ofNorthAmerica.

Buttheonlyfeatureofhisbookforwhichtheauthorfeltcalledupontoapologize,wasthecateringtopopularsuperstition,asinstating,forinstance,thatintheCathedralofSantiagodeCompostelaisadoredtheveritablebodyofSt.James.Hecastaquizzicalglanceatmeinreadingthis,andthenlaughedhimselfpurpleintheface."Onehastosaythesethingsinthiscountry,"hegasped,stillbreathlessfromhismirth."Dropsofwatermustrunwiththestream.Ifonly

therewereashrinewherepeoplemightbecuredofbeingfools!"Quick-wittedastheoldgentlemanwas,hepresentlydetectedalackofgeographicalenthusiasminhisaudience.Hisliteraryvanitysmartedforamomentandthenhefelltolaughing,declaringthatladiesalwayshadadistasteforusefulinformation."Thatoldwifeofmine"couldnotabidearithmetic.HedigressedintoanexplanationoftheRomannotation,makingitquitecleartouswhereinIXdiffersfromXI,andwithantiquatedcourtlinessofphrase,evenforSpain,askedourgraciouspermissiontocausehimselfthepainofdeparture.

Heoftenreappeared.Hiswiryarm,reachedthroughtheMoorishbarsoftheouterdoor,wouldgiveitsownpeculiarlyenergetictwitchtothe

bellchainloopedwithin.Amaid,leaningovertherailingofanupperstory,wouldcalldownthechallengeinheritedfromgoodoldfightingtimes,"Whocomeshere?"AndhisthinvoicewouldchirptheAndalusiananswer,"Peace."

Onhissecondvisithefairlygurgledwithpleasureasheplacedanothervolumewithhisnameonthetitle-pagebeforeme.SinceIdidnotinclinetosolidreading,beholdhimequallyreadytosupplymewiththesweetsofliterature!This,too,wasaschoolbook,asomewhathaphazardcollectionofCastilianpoems,withbriefbiographiesoftheauthorsrepresented.Itsnoveleducationalfeaturewastheprintingofeachpoeminadifferenttype.Theresultwasalittlestartlingtotheeye,buttheeditorwasdoubtlessrightin

claimingthatitmadethereadingharderforthechildren,andsodevelopedtheirpowersthroughexercise.Here,again,hewasashamedofthefactthatfullytwo-thirdsofthepoemswerereligious.

"Butwhatcanonedointhiscountry?"heaskedtestily."Allthereadingbookshavetobelikethat.Bah!Butwewillnotreadthesepiousverses.Theothersaremuchmoreentertaining."

Determinednottowoundhimagainbyanylackofinterestinbooksofhisownshaping,wesatpatientlythroughpageafterpageofthat



juvenileschoolreader;butwhen,withapamphletonspellingandpunctuation,wehadcompletedthelistofhisworks,IoncemorecalledhisattentiontoCalderon.

Thisstruckhimasacapitaljoke.HehadneverreadCalderonhimself,hehadhardlyheardofCalderon,andthataforeigner,awomanatthat,shouldinsistonreadingCalderon,wasfunnyenoughtomakehisoldsidesache.Thereweremodernauthorsinplentywhomustcertainlywritemuchbetterthananout-of-datefellowlikethat.Hehadbooksthathecouldlendme.Hehadfriendsfromwhomhecouldborrow.ButnothingwouldpleasemebutCalderon!WhyunderthefancifulmoonshouldIsetmyheartonCalderon?

"_Bueno!_"hecriedatlast,whiskingthemirthfultearsfromhiseyes."_Vamosáver!_Letusgoonandsee!"

WeopenedtheclassicvolumeattheCatholicFaust-drama,_ElMágicoProdigioso_,andbegantoread,soonpassingintothegreatargumentbetweenCiprianoandLuciferastothenatureofGod.Ourguest,sensitivetoallimpressionsashewas,becameimmediatelyamazedanddelighted.

"Butthisislofty!"heexclaimed."Thisissublime!Good,Cipriano,good!Nowyouhavehim!Whatwillthedevilsaytothat?_Vamosá

ver!_"Atthecloseofthattremendoussceneheshutthebook,fairlypantingwithexcitement.Butneverthelesstherewasatwinkleinhiseye.HeknewnowwhyIcravedthisCalderon.Hewasevidentlyareligiouswriter,andwomenwereallreligious.Itwasanamiablefeminineweakness,liketheaversiontogeographyandarithmetic.Buthisindulgentchivalryrosetotheoccasion.Havinglearnedmytaste,suchasitwas,hewouldgratifyittotheutmost.

"Ifyouwouldonlycomeandseemylibrary!"heproposed."Ihaveexactlythebooktherethatwillpleaseyou.Ihavenotreaditmyself,butitisverylarge,withmostbeautifulpictures,andit

tellstheseoldstoriesaboutLuciferandallthat.Iamsureitisjustwhatyouwouldlike.Willyounotdoyourhumbleservantthehonorofcomingto-morrowafternoon?"

Iranoverinmymindourengagementsforthemorrow.Hemistookthecauseofmyhesitation.

"Indeedyouneednotbeafraidtocome,"heurged."Myhouseisassafeasaconvent.Thatoldwifeofmine,too,willbesuretobesomewhereabout.Andyoucanbringthesilentseñoritawithyou."

Iwasawareofaslightconvulsionin"thesilentseñorita."ShecouldspeakalltheSpanishshechose,butshefoundtheeccentricitiesof

thisvisitorsodisconcertingthatsheaffectedignorance,andhesupposedhermutepresenceatourinterviewstobepurelyindeferencetotheSpanishproprieties.

Myyouthfulchaperon,muchelatedbythisreversalofournaturalpositions,dulyattendedmethenextdaytoourfriend'ssurprisinglyeleganthome.Hewasforevercryingpovertyandtellingus,withthetearsthatcametohisoldageaseasilyasthelaughter,howthehardshipsoflifehadbeatenoutofhimeveryambitionsavehopeto"gainthebread"untilhisdeath,butwefoundhimluxuriouslyhoused,



andIwasafterwardinformedthathewasoneoftherichestmeninthecity.

Heranwiththatwonderfulsprightlinessofhisacrossthemarbledcourttomeetus,andceremoniouslyconductedusupthehandsomestaircase.Heledusthroughall"ourhouse,"typicallyAndalusian,withstatuesandurnsofblossomingtreessetintheopenpatios,withMoorisharchesandbright-huedtiles,shadedbalconies,tapestriedandcurtainedbeds,_braseros_,androcking-chairs,andineveryroomimagesandpaintingsofthesaints,atwhichhemadeirreverentgrimaces.

Therewerefamilyportraits,too,beforethreeofwhichhebrokedownintoweeping--thesonwhohaddiedintheprimeofmanhood,thedaughterlostinherfairmaidenhood,and,wherethestormysobsshookhimfromheadtofoot,theBenjaminofhisheart,aclear-eyedyoungofficerwhohadfallenintheCubanwar.Thetearswerestillstreamingdownthequiveringoldfacewhenweturnedsilentlyaway--forwhatwordofcomfortwouldAmericansdaretospeak?--andfollowedhimtohisstudy.

Hewasofextravagantreputeinhislocalityasascholarandamanofletters,andhisstudywaswhatastudyoughttobe,--wellfurnishedwithdesk,pigeon-holes,allthetoolsofliterarylabor,andwalled

withbooks.Amongthesewasanencyclopædiainwhich,tohisfrankastonishment,hefoundanarticleoffifteenpagesonCalderon.Thegreatvolumewehadcometoseelayopenonareadingstand.ItwasaSpanishBible,withtheDoréillustrations.Iwantedtolookatthetitle-page,butoureagerhost,proudtoexhibitandexplain,tossedovertheleavessofastthatIhadnoopportunity.

AshewasracingthroughthePsalms,impatientbecauseoftheirdearthofpictures,myeyewascaughtbythefamiliarpassage,"Asthehartpantethafterthewaterbrooks,sopantethmysoulafterThee,OGod."

Withpromptcuriosity,hepoppeddownhiswhitehead,initsclose-fittingskullcap,toseewhatIwasnoting,andinstantlywent

offintoanimmoderategustoflaughter.

"_Muybien!_"hewheezed,assoonashecouldrecoveranythinglikeavoice."Butthatisverycleverlyput.Hewasawittyfellowwhowrotethat.Justso!Justso!Thedeergoestothewaterbecausehemeanstogetsomethingforhimself,andthatiswhytheyoungmengointothepriesthood,andwhythewomengotomass.It'sallselfishness,isreligion.Buthowwellhesaysit!"

"No,no!"Iexclaimed,foroncestartledintoprotest."Heissayingthatreligionistheimpulseofthirst."

Theincorrigibleoldworldlingtookthisforanotherjest,and,asin

gallantrybound,laughedharderatmysallythanatpoorKingDavid's.

"Excellent!Perfect!Soitis!Soitis!Religionistheimpulsetofillone'sownstomach.JustwhatIhavealwayssaid!'Asthehartpantethafterthewaterbrooks'--ho,ho!Imusttrytorememberthat."

HisenthusiasmforCalderonsoonkindledtoaflame.Astheplotthickenedheceasedtobeoftheslightesthelpinanydifficultiesthatthetextmightoffer.InvainIwouldbeseechhimtoclearupsometroublesomepassage.



"Oh,nevermind!"hewouldsay,vexedattheinterruption."Theydidn'twriteverywellinthoseolddays.AndIwanttoknowwhichofherthreesuitorsJustinatook.Threeatonce!Whatasituation! _Vamosáver!_IhopeitwillbeCipriano."

AsthespellofCalderon'simaginationpassedmoreandmorestronglyuponhim,thismostsympatheticofreadersquiteaccepted,forthetimebeing,thepoet'sCatholicpointofview,tremblingforCiprianoandalmostchokingwithagitatedjoywhenJustina,callinginherextremityuponthenameofGod,putLucifertoflight.Butafterwehadreadthedramatotheend,throughitsfinalsceneoftriumphantmartyrdom,hesatsilentforseveralminutes,andthenshookhishead.

"Nottrue;itisnottrue.Thereisnodevilbuttheevilpassionsofhumanity.AndasforCipriano'sdefinitionofGod--itisgood,yes;itisgreat,yes;butwhocanshutGodintoadefinition?Onemightaswelltrytoscoopuptheoceaninacocoanutshell.No!Allreligionsarehumanfictions.Wehavecome,nobodyknowswhenceorwhy,intothispaltry,foolish,sordidlife,formostofusonlyafighttogainthebread,andafterward--_Bueno!_Iamonthebrinkofthejump,andthepriestshavenotfrightenedmeyet.Afterward?_Vamosáver!_"

ThismanhadheardofProtestantismsimplyasanignorantnotionof

thelowerclasses.ForthetypicalSpanishProtestantofto-daypresentsastrikingcontrasttothetypicalSpanishProtestantoftheReformation.WhenheresyfirstenteredthePeninsula,itgainedalmostnofootingamongthecommonpeople,whosupposedLuthertobeanothersortofdevilandtheProtestantsanewvarietyofJewsorMoors;buttherankandlearningofSpain,theyouthfulnobility,illustriouspreachersandwriters,officersandfavoritesoftheCourt,evenmenandwomeninwhoseveinsflowedthebloodroyal,welcomedwithardorthewavethatwassurgingoverEurope.Theveryeminenceofthesehereticssealedtheirdoom.TheInquisitioncouldnotmisssuchshiningmarks.TheHolyOfficediditsworkwithabominablethoroughness.Apartfromthecountlessmultitudeswhomitdidtodeathindungeonandtorture-chamber,itburnedmorethanthirtythousandof

themostvaluablecitizensofSpainanddroveforthfromthePeninsulasomethreemillionsofJewsandMoors.The_autosdefe_werefestivals.AmongtheweddingpompsfortheFrenchbrideofPhilipII,agirlthirteenyearsold,wasoneofthesehorriblespectaclesatToledo.TheholidayfiresofSevilleandValladoliddrankthemostpreciousbloodofAndalusiaandCastile.ThoughSaragossahadamindtoHuguenotfuel;thoughPamplona,ononefestalday,heapedupaholocaustoftenthousandJews;thoughGranada,Murcia,andValenciawhettedtheircruelpietyontheMoorswhohadmadethesouthernprovincesagardenofdelight;yetinallthesecities,asinToledo,Logroño,andtherest,theSpanishstockitselfwasdrainedofitsfinestandmosthighlycultivatedintelligence,itssincerestconscience,purestvalor,itsmostoriginalandindependentthought.

Spainhasbeenpayingthepenaltyeversince.HerhistoryfromPhilipIIhasbeenajudgmentday.

NorootoftheLutheranheresysurvivedinthePeninsula.ThenewProtestantismdoesnotspringfromtheold.ThebloodoftheSpanishmartyrswasnottheseedoftheSpanishchurch.TheProtestantofto-dayisfarremoved,sociallyandpolitically,fromthecourtiers,marquises,knightsofSantiago--thosegallantcavalierswhowerestrippeduponthescaffoldoftheirhonorabledecorationsandcladintheyellowrobeofinfamy.Thisnineteenth-centuryProtestantmaybea



lawyerorajournalist,butbyexception.Ordinarilyheisapettyfarmer,asmallshop-keeper,mechanic,miner,day-laborer,ofhumblecallingandoflowlylife.Inpoliticsheisalmostsurelyarepublican.Whenthemonarchywasoverthrown,in'68,Protestantismwas,forthemoment,infavor,andhundredsofthetriumphantpartyhastenedtoprofessthereformedfaith.WiththereturnofaRomanCatholiccourtandperhapsuponthediscoverythatthenewChristianity,too,hasitsburdenanditsyoke,manyfellaway.

YetProtestantismhasnowanassuredfootinginSpain.Protestantchurchesmaybefoundinmostoftheimportantcities.Therearesomefiftyforeignpreachersandteachersinthefield,aidedbynearlyeightySpanishpastorsandcolporteurs.ThenumberofSpanishcommunicantsisbetweenthreeandfourthousand,thechurchattendanceisreckonedatninethousand,andtherearefivethousandSpanishchildrenintheProtestantschools.SeveralcentreshavebeenestablishedforthesaleofBiblesandProtestantbooks,andsixorsevenProtestantperiodicalsarepublishedandcirculated.InanswertothecontinualRomishtauntthatProtestantismisawarofsects,ahousedividedagainstitself,aProtestantUnionwasorganizedatMadridinthespringof1899.All,savetwo,ofthefifteenmissions,supportedbyvarioussocietiesofGreatBritain,Germany,Switzerland,andAmerica,joinedhandsinthis.OnlythePlymouthBrethrenandtheChurchofEnglandheldaloof.

[Illustration:AMILKMANOFGRANADA]

TheInquisitionexistsnolonger.Religiousliberty,eveninSpain,hasthesupportoflaw.YetstilltheSpanishProtestant,thispoor,plainProtestantofto-day,asobscureasthoseGalileanfishermenwhomtheMastercalled,isharassedbypettypersecutions.Childrensinginsultingversesafterhiminthestreet,especiallythatpiousditty:--

"Getawaywithyou,Protestants,OutofourCatholicSpain,ThattheSacredHeart,theSacredHeart,

Mayloveourlandagain."

Heisjealouslywatchedonthepassingof"HisMajestytheWafer"andpursuedwithmudandspittingsifhefailstodoithomage.Collegeboysrubcharcoaloverthefrontofhischapelandstonehisschoolroomwindows;workisrefusedhim;promotiondeniedhim;hisrentishigherthanhisneighbor's,yetnothisneighbor'sfamilynorhislandlord'scrosshisthreshold.Ifscorncanburn,hefeelsthe _autodefe_.

VIII

ANANDALUSIANTYPE

"'True,'quothSancho:'butIhaveheardsaytherearemorefriarsinheaventhanknights-errant.''Itmaybeso,'repliedDonQuixote,'becausetheirnumberismuchgreaterthanthatofknights-errant.''Andyet,'quothSancho,'thereareabundanceoftheerrantsort.''Abundanceindeed,'answeredDonQuixote,'butfewwhodeservethenameof



knights.'"--CERVANTES:_DonQuixote_.

ItmighthavebeeninSeville,thoughitwasnot,thatImetmymost _simpático_exampleoftheAndalusian.HewasofoldSierrastock,merryasthesunshineandgraciousastheshadows.Hugeofbuildandblackastheblackest,hewasasgentleasagreatNewfoundlanddog,untilsomeflyingsparkofawordsetthedarkfiresblazinginhiseyes.Thiswasnoinfrequentoccurrence,forthetravellingEnglishman,asfrankasheispatriotic,cannotcomprehendthezestwithwhichwell-to-doSpaniards,evenintimeofwar,escapemilitaryservicebyamoneypayment.Nottheheightandgirthofouryounggiant,norhiscordialcourtesyandwinningplayfulness,shieldedhimfromthebluntquestion,"Whydidn'tyougoovertoCuba,agreatfellowlikeyou,andfightforyourflag?"HisusualrejoinderwastheeloquentSouthernshrugoftheshoulder,twistoftheeyebrow,andwavingliftofthehand,withthenoteasilyanswerablewords,"Andtowhatgood?"Butnowandthenthequerycamefromsuchasourceorwasdeliveredwithsokeenathrustthathisguardedfeelingoutleapedreserve.ThesarcasmsandmockeriesthatthensurgedfromhiminabittertorrentweredirectedchieflyagainstSpain,althoughtheAmericaneaglerarelywentscot-free."Ah,yes,itisafinefowl,that!Hehasthefar-seeingeye;hehasthephilanthropicbeakandclaw!"ButitwasthegoldenlionofSpainagainstwhichhisharshest

gibeswerehurled--"_unanimaldoméstico_,thatdoesnotbite."NooneofthepartywasatitheasoutspokenasourSpaniardhimselfincondemningtheerrorsoftheSpanishcampaignorcensuringthemethodsoftheSpanishGovernment.Ifheturnedangrilytowardacriticismfromaforeigner,itwasonly,inthesecondinstant,tocatchituplikeaballandtossithimselffromonehandtotheother--likeaballthatburnsthefingers.

Suchwrathcaneasilybetheseamysideoflove,and,inaway,theman'snationalpridewasmeasuredbyhisnationalshame;butalwaysovertheseoutburststherebroodedthatsomethinghopelesslyresigned,drearilyfatalistic,whichseemstovitiatetheSpanishindignation

foranypurposesofpracticalreform.Tosuggestionsofsympathyherespondedwithapatheticwearinessofmanner,thishandsomeyoungHercules,soradiantwiththejoyoflife,who,inhisnormalmood,sprinkledmirthandmischieffromhimasabigdogshakesoffwaterdrops.

"Whatcanonedo?IamaSpaniard.Isayittomyselfahundredtimesaday.IamaSpaniard,andIwishmycountrywereworththefightingfor,worththedyingfor.Butisit?Isitworththetoothache?Godknowsthetruth,andletitrestthere.Oh,youneednottellmeofitspast.Itwasoncethemostgloriousofnations.SpaniardswerelordsoftheWest.But--ah,Iknow,Iknow--Spainhasneverlearnedhowtorulehercolonies.Hewhosowsbramblesreapsthorns.The

Church,too,hasdonemuchharminSpain--notmoreharmthananother.IamaCatholic,butasIseeit,priestsdifferfromothermenonlyinthis--inthecafésitsomebadmenandmanygood,andinthechoirkneelsomegoodpriestsandmanybad.Thedevillurksbehindthecross.ButSpainwillnevergiveupherChurch.Itisburnedin.Youareaheretic,andlikemyfigure,doyounot?Itisburnedin.ThereisnohopeforSpainbuttosinkherdeepundertheearth,andbuildanewSpainontop.AndwhydoInotworkforthatnewSpain?Howmayamanwork?ThereistalkenoughinSpainasitis.MostSpaniardstalkanddonomore.Theygotothecafésand,whentheyhaveemptiedtheir



cups,theydrawfiguresonthetablesandtheytalk.Thatisall.ThenewSpainwillnevercome.Whatshoulditbe?Oh,Iknowbetterwhatitshouldnotbe.Itshouldhavenoking.Arepublic--thatisright.PerhapsnotarepublicpreciselylikeAmerica.Itmaybe,"andthemelancholysarcasmofthetonedeepened,"therecouldbefoundsomethingevenbetter.ButSpainwillnotfindit.Spainwillfindnothing.

"Whatcanonedo?IknowSpaintoowell.Now,hear!Iamacquaintedwitha_caballero_.Ihavebeenhisfriendtenyearsandmore.Buthehashadtheluck,notI.For,first,whenwewereattheuniversity,hehadafortunelefttohim.Hebecamebetrothedtoaseñoritawhomhelovedbetterthanhiseyelashes.HetravelledforhispleasuretoMonteCarlo,andplayedhisfortuneallawayinoneweek.HecamebacktoMadrid,andwenttooneoftheMinisters,towhomhisfatherhadinformerdaysdoneagreatservice.Myfriendsaid:'Iamtomarry.TheladyexpectstosharethefortunewhichIhavelost.Mypositionisnothonorable.Imusthaveanopening,achancetoredeemmyself,orIshallstanddisgracedbeforeher.'TheMinistersenthimtooneoftheCubancustom-houses,andintwoyearshereturnedwithgreatwealth.OnhisweddingjourneyhespentanightatMonteCarloandgambleditawaytothelast_peseta_.Astrangerhadtolendhimmoneytogethomewithhisbride.Washenotashamedandtroubled?Ashamed?Idonotknow.Buttroubled?Yes,forhewantedtoplaylonger.Everyone

isasGodhasmadehim,andveryoftenworse.AgainhewenttotheMinister,whoseheartwassofterthanaripefigandwhofoundhimapostinthePhilippines.Thistimehemadeafortunemuchquickerthanbefore,knowingbetterhowtodounjustly,butafewweeksbeforethewarhecamehomeandlostitallagainatMonteCarlo.Andnowheishorriblyvexed,foritisanotherMinister,and,besides,therearenocoloniestoenrichhimanymore.

"WhatusetocareforSpain?No,no,no,no,no!Spainisagoodcountrytoleave--thatisall.AndyoudowelltotravelinSpain.Americanladieslikechange,andSpainisnotAmerica.Hereyouarenotonlyinadifferentland,butinadifferentcentury.Youcansay,whenyoucomeout,thatyouhavebeenjourneyingahundredyearsago."

Onanotheroccasiononeofthosepleasantindividualswhowould,astheSpaniardssay,"talkofaropeinthehouseofonewhohadbeenhanged,"sawfittoentertainthedinner-tablewithanecdotesofSpanishcruelty.

"ButSpaniardsarenotcruel,"protestedouryoungblackamoorinhissoftestvoiceanhourlater,strokingwithonegreathandtheheadofachildwhonestledagainsthisknee."WhatdidthatEnglishfellowmean?WhyshouldanyonethinkthatSpaniardsarecruel?"

IranoverinmindafewofthefrightfulstoriesofLasCasas,thatgoodDominicanfriarwhowouldnotholdhispeacewhenhesawthe

brainingofIndianbabiesandroastingofIndianchiefs.IrememberedhowDeSototossedhiscaptivestothebloodhounds,andwhatatrocitieswerewroughtinthetranquilrealmoftheIncas;IrecalledthehorrorsoftheInquisition,butthesethingswereofthepast.SoIanswered,"Perhapsthebull-fightshavedonesomethingtogiveforeignersthatimpression."

UnlikemanyeducatedSpaniardswhowouldratherattendthebull-fightsthandefendthem,hesquaredhisshouldersforanoration.



"Thebull-fights?Butwhy?Bull-fightsarenotcruel--notmorecruelthanothersportsinothercountries.Ihavebeentoldofprize-fightsinAmerica.Ibegyourpardon.Iseebyyourlookthatyoudonotlikethem.And,intruth,Idonotaltogetherlikethebull-fights.Thehorses!Theyareblindfolded,anditisshort,butIhaveseen--ah,yes!YouwouldnotwishtohearwhatIhaveseen.Ihavebeenoftensorryforthehorses.Yetsomepainisnecessaryineverything,isitnot?Innature,perhaps?Insociety,perhaps?Even,ifyouwillpardontheillustration,inthedeliveranceoftheFilipinosfromSpanishtyranny?"

Ibrieflysuggestedthattherewasnoelementofnecessityinbull-fights.

Thewavinghandapologizedgentlyfordissent.

"But,yes!Thebullsarekilledforfood.Thatiswhatforeignersdonotseemtounderstand.Itmaybeugly,butitisuniversal.Tosupplymenwithmeat,tofeedgreatcitieswiththefleshofbeasts--itisnotpleasanttothinkofthattooclosely.Buthowtohelpit?Doyounothaveslaughter-housesinAmerica?ThesealsowehaveinSpain.Ihavevisitedone.Itseemedtomemuchworsethanthebull-ring.Faugh!Ididnotlikeit.Thecattlestoodtrembling,onebehindanother,waitingfortheblow.Ishouldnotliketodielikethat.I

wouldratherdieinthewrathofbattlelikea_torobravo_.Oh,itisnotcruel.Donotthinkit.Forthesebullsfeelnofear.Itisfearthatdegrades.Theymayfeelpain,butIdoubt--Idoubt.Theyfeelthewildnessofanger,andtheychargeandchargeagainuntilthe _estocada_,thedeathstab.Thatisnotsobadawaytodie,isit?Anymanwouldchooseitratherthantostandinterror,boundandhelpless,hearingtheothersfallundertheaxeandseeinghisturndrawnear.Yes,yes!Thebull-ringratherthantheslaughter-houseforme!"

Thiswasanovelviewofthecasetotheauditor,whoignominiouslyshiftedherground.

"Butwhatcountryusestheslaughter-houseasaspectacleandasport?Itisonethingtotakelifeforfood,andanothertomakeaholidayofthedeathstruggle."

Againthatdeprecatorywavingofthehands.

"Ibegyourpardon.IdonotknowhowitisinAmerica.Perhaps"[circumflexaccent]"allismercifulandnoblethere.ButwhenIwasinEnglandIsawsomethingofthechaseandoftheautumnshooting.Isawapoorlittlefoxhuntedtothedeath.Itwasnotforfood.Thedogstorehim.Isawwoundedbirdsleftinthecovertodie.Itwastoomuchtroubletogatherthemallup.Andthedeer?Doesnotthestagsuffermoreinhisflightthanthebullinhisstruggle?I

believeit.Torunandrunandrun,alwaysgrowingweaker,whilethechasecomesnearer--thatisanagony.Therageofcombathasnoterrorinit.Iwouldnotdielikethedeer,hunteddownbypacksofdogsandmen--andladies.Iwoulddielikethebull,hearingthecheersofthemultitude."

Thebigfellowbentoverthebabythatwasdroppingtosleepagainsthisknee,andslippedthedrowsylittlebody,deftlyandtenderly,toasofa.Suchsweetnessfloodedthesoftblackeyes,astheywereliftedfromthechild,thatitwashardtoimaginethemsparklingwith



savagedelightoverthebloodyscenesofthe_corridadetoros_.Iaskedimpulsivelyhowlongitwassincehehadseenabull-fight.Browsandhandsandshoulderswereswifttoexpresstheirappreciationofthebearingsofthequestion,andthevoicebecameverymusicincourteousacquiescence.

"Ah,itisfouryears.Ofcourse,Iwasmuchyoungerthen.Yes,yes!Itmightnotpleasemenow._Quiensabe?_Andyet--Ibegyourpardon--IthinkIshallgonextSundayinMadrid,onmywaytoParis.ItissowearyinLondonontheSundays.ItwasalwayscolderSunday,andtherewasnotevenacafé.Therewasnowheretogo.Therewasnothingtodo.Whyisthatgood?Atthebull-fightonefeelsthejoyoflife.Isitmorereligioustositdullanddismalbythefire?Ihadnouseforthechurches.Walkingisnotamusing,unlessthesunshinesandthereissomethinggaytosee.Idonotliketea,andIdonotcareforreading.Spaniardsliketolaughandbemerry,andwhenthereisnothingtolaughfor,lifeisaheaviness.ThereisnolaughterinaLondonSunday.IhopePariswillbebetter,thoughIbelievetherearenobull-fightsthereasyet.Youarenotpleasedwithme,butletmetellyouwhyIlovethe_corrida_.Itisnotforthehorses,youremember.Ihavesometimeslookedaway.ButwhyshouldIpitythebulls,whentheyaremadwithbattle?Theydonotpitythemselves.Theyaregladintheirfury,andIamgladinseeingit.ButIammoregladintheactivityanddaringofthemen.Whenthey

runrisks,thatiswhatmakesmecheer.ItisnotthatIwouldhavethemhurt.Iamproudtofindmenbrave.AndIamexcitedandeagertoseeiftheyescape.Doyounotunderstand?Ifyouwouldgoyourself--justonce--no?Isitalwaysno?Thenletmetellyouwhatisthebestofall.Itistostandneartheentranceandwatchthepeoplepassin,alldressedintheirholidayclothes,andallwithholidayfaces.Itisgoodandbeautifultoseethem--especiallytheladies."

ThemostattractivequalitiesofouryoungSpaniardwerehismirthandcourtesy.Hismerrimentwassospontaneousandsobuoyantthathisgraceofmanner,alwaystemperedtotimeandplaceandperson,becamethemoreapparent.Hishumordwelt,nevertheless,intheborderlandsofirony,anditwasconceivablethattherubsoflaterlifemight

enrichitspungencyatthecostofitskindliness.Hewasexcellentatgames(notsports),especiallythegameofcourtliness(nothelpfulness).Theletterwasnotposted,themessageslippedhismemory,theerrandwasdoneamiss,buthisapologieswerepoetry.Hemadeaprettyplayoftheslightestsocialintercourse.WewouldopenourBaedekeratthemapwhichwehadalready,incrossingSpain,unfoldedsomehundredtimes.Hewouldspringaslightlytohisfeetasifhismightybulkweremadeoffeathers,andstand,halfbowing,archinghiseyebrowsinappeal,spreadingouthishandsinofferofassistance,butnotventuringtoapproachthemtowardthebookuntilitwasdefinitelytenderedhim.Thenhewouldreceiveitwithelaboratedelicacyoftouch,unfoldthecreasedsheetwithascoreofvariedlittleflourishes,andrestorethevolumewithawholefresh

seriesofgesticulatoryairsandgraces.Thenextinstanthewouldpeepupfromunderhisblacklashestodetectthealloyofamusementinourgratitude,anddrophisfaceflatuponthetableinaboyishbubbleoflaughter,saying:--

"Ah!ButyouthinkweSpaniardsmakemuchoflittlethings.Itistrue.Wearebestatwhatisleastuseful."

Light-heartedAndalusianthoughhewas,hehadfullshareoftheenergyandenterpriseofyoungmanhood.Likethedonsoflongago,he



wasequippinghimselfforthegreatWesternadventure.DespitehisSpanishwrathagainstAmerica,shehadforhimapersistentfascination.AllhisambitionswerebentonabusinesscareerinNewYork,theElDoradoofhisimagination.Butitwasnolonger,attheendofthenineteenthcentury,acaseofleapingaboardagalleonandwavingaToledobladeinair.Thecommercialcareerdemands,sohefancied,thatitsknightgofortharmedcap-a-pieinthecommercialtongues.ThushehadspentfouryearsofhisyouthandhalfofhispatrimonyinLondonandBerlin,andnow,afterthishastyvisithome,purposedtogotoParis,forayearortwoofFrench.Thisunsettledlifewaslittletohisliking,butbeyondgleamedthevisionofaWallStreetfortune.

Yetevennow,attheoutsetofhistask,afrequentlethargywouldstealoverhisyoungvigor.Itwascurioustosee,whentheMarchwindblewchillortheFrenchverbswaxedcrabbed,howallhisbearinglostitsbeauty.Therewasacentraldignitythatdidnotlapse,butthebrightnessandeffectivenessweregone.Hisbigbodydroopedandlookedlumpish.Hiscomelyfacewascloudedbyananimalsluggishnessofexpression.Foreigngrimacestwistedacrossit,andsomethingverylikeagruntissuedfrombeneathhischerishedfirstmustache.Hissarcasmbecamealittlesavage.Hewouldsitforhoursinabroodingfit,and,whenaninexorablecalltoactioncame,obeyitwithalookofdrearypatienceolderthanhisyears.Itwasasifsomething

inherentinhisnature,independentofhiswill,weigheduponhimanddraggedhimdown.TheSpainatwhichhegibedandfromwhichhewouldhavecuthimselfawaywasyetamillstoneabouthisneck.Hewasintheheydayofhisyouth,progressiveanddetermined,butthetorpidbloodofanagedpeoplecloggedhisveins.Spainwillneverloseherholdonhim,despitehisstrongestefforts.HischildrenmaybecitizensofthegreatRepublic,buthemustbeaforeignertotheend.Hemustwanderastrangerinstrangecities,puzzlinghisSpanishwitsoveralienphrasesandfashionsandideals,unless,indeed,hisspiritlosesedge,andhedriftsintochillapathyofdisappointmentonfindingthathisgoldencastlesinAmericaarewroughtofthatsameolddream-stuffwhichusedtobethemonopolyofcastlesinSpain.

Butitisbesttoleaveill-bodingtothegypsies.Goodluckmaytakealikingtohim,ifonlyforthemusicofhislaugh.Forevenifblitheheartandcourtlybearingbringnohighcashvalueinthemodernbusinessmarket,theymaysmooththeroadtosimplehappiness.Moreover,aSpaniarddearlylovesagameofchance,andattheworst,ourfortune-seekerwillhavethrownhisdice.HismayseemtotheYankeeonlookerbutalosingplay,andyet--whoknows?"Hewhosingsfrightensawayhisills."God'sblessingsailsinsummercloudsaslightlyasincostlypleasureyachts.Outofashaftofsunshine,acupofchocolate,andacigarette,thisAndalusianimmigrant,thoughstrandedinanEastSidetenement,maygetmoreluxurythancanbepurchasedbyamulti-millionaire.

[Illustration:AROMANWELLINRONDA]

IX

ABULL-FIGHT

"Iwishnolivingthingtosufferpain."--SHELLEY:_Prometheus



Unbound_.

FromourfirstcrossingofthePyreneeswewereimpressed,evenbeyondourexpectation,withtheSpanishpassionforthebull-fight.ThemorecultivatedSpaniards,tobesure,areusuallyunwillingtoadmittoaforeignertheirpleasureinthepastime."Itisbrutal,"saidayoungphysicianofMadrid,aswediscussedit."Itisaverypainfulthingtosee,certainly.Igo,myself,onlytwoorthreetimesayear,whentheproceedsaretobedevotedtosomereligiousobject--acharityorotherholywork."

Nosightismorecommoninstreetsandparksthanthatofagroupofboysplaying_altoro_--oneurchinchargingaboutwithsticksfastenedtohisshouldersforhorns,orwithapasteboardbull'sheadpulledoverhisears,andotherswavingscarletclothsandbrandishingimprovisedswordsandlances.ItissaidthatinfierceValenciayouthshavesometimescarriedonthissportwithknivesforhornsandswords,thespectatorsrelishingthebloodshedtoowelltointerfere.Noteasilydosuchladsastheseforgivethelittlekingforcrying,likethesensitivechildheis,thefirsttimehewastakentothebull-ring.

The_corridasdetoros_,althoughdenouncedbysomeofthechief

voicesinSpain,areheldalmostanationalshibboleth.Loyalsupportersofthequeenregentwilladdtotheirpraisesthesigh,"Ifonlyshelovedthebull-fight!"Cavaliersandladiesfairreservetheirchoicestattiretogracethesebarbarities.ItisacommonsayingthataSpaniardwillsellhisshirttobuyatickettothebull-ring,butwhateverthedeficienciesoftheinnercostume,thedressthatmeetstheeyeisbraveintheextreme.Itisrecentlybecomingthefashionfor_caballeros_,especiallyinthenorthofSpain,todiscardthoseveryfetchingcloakswiththevividlinings--cloaksinwhichSpaniardsmuffletheirfacestotheeyebrowsastheytreadtheechoingstreetsofcitiesfoundedsomethousandorfifteenhundredyearsago.ButforagoodoldSpanishbull-fight,thegoodoldSpanishcostumesareoutinforce,thebright-hued_capas_

andbroad_sombreros_,andfortheladies,whoalsoarebeginningtodiscardthecustomaryblackmantillaforParisianheadgear,theexquisitewhitemantillasofearlytimesandthelargestandmostrichlydecoratedfans.

ItisinsuchplacesasthegrimRomanamphitheatreofItalica,whosegrass-grownarenahasflowedsoredwithmartyrdomsofmenandbeasts,thatonedespairsmostofSpanishabilitytogiveupthebull-fight.Itisintheair,inthesoil,intheblood;anationalinstitution,anhereditaryrage."Butitisthelinkthatholdsyourcountryboundtobarbarism.Therestoftheworldisontheforwardmove.Itellyou,thecontinuanceofthebull-fightmeanstheruinofSpain,"urgedagiganticyoungGerman,inourhearing,onhisSpanishfriend.The

slightfigureoftheMadrileñoshookwithanger."AndItell_you_"hechoked,"thatSpainwouldratherperishwiththebull-fightthansurvivewithoutit."_IsabellaCatólica_,whoearnestlystrovetoputdownthesesavagecontests,wroteatlasttoherFatherConfessorthatthetaskwastoohardforher.The"CatholicKings"couldtakeGranada,unifySpain,establishtheInquisition,expelMoorsandJews,andopentheAmericas;buttheycouldnotabolishbull-fighting.NorwasPiusV,withhisdenialofChristianburialtoallwhofellinthearena,andhisexcommunicationforprinceswhopermitted_corridasdetoros_intheirdominions,moresuccessful.Thepapalbull,likethe



bullsoffleshandblood,wasinevitablyoverthrown.

SpanishlegendlikestonametheCidasthefirst_torero_.

"TrothitgoodlywasandpleasantTobeholdhimattheirhead,AllinmailonBavieca,Andtohearthewordshesaid."

Inmediævaltimesthesportwasnotwithoutchivalricfeatures.Knightsfoughtforhonor,whereprofessionalsnowfightfor_pesetas_.WhenthegreatCharleskilledabullwithhisownlanceinhonorofthebirthofPhilipII,thefavoroftheAustriandynastywassecured.TheBourbonslookedonthesportmorecoldly,butasroyaltyandnobilitywithdrew,thepeoplepressedtothefore.OutofthehardySpanishmultituderoseaseriesofmasters,--Romerotheshoemaker,who,ingeneral,gavetotheartitsmodernform;Martinchotheshepherd,who,seatedinachairwithhisfeetbound,wouldawaitthechargingbrute;Cándido,whowouldfacethebullinfullcareerandescapebyleapingtoitsforeheadandoveritsback;Costillares,whoinventedaningeniouswayofgettinginthedeath-stroke;thefamousPepeHillo,who,likeCándido,perishedinthering;asecondRomero,saidtohavekilledfivethousandsixhundredbulls;Montésthebrick-layer,andabloodybandoffollowers.Andalusiais--alas!--the

classicsoilofthebull-fight,aseverypeasantknows,andSevillethetopofAndalusia.

"Ihaveahandsomelover,TooboldtofeartheDevil,Andhe'sthebest_torero_ InallthetownofSeville."

Theextravaganceofthepopularenthusiasmforthese_fiestasdetoros_isoftenridiculedonthestage,wheredramasdealingwithbull-fighting,especiallyiftheybringintheheroesofthearena,PepeHillo,Romero,Costillares,aresuretotake.One_zarzuela_ representsarheumaticold_aficionado_,ordevoteeofthesport,

trying,withludicrousresults,toscrewhiscouragetothepointoffacingthebull.AnotherspendsitsfunonaMadridbarber,whoislikewiseabrain-turnedpatronofthering.Disregardingtheshrillprotestsofhiswife,helavishesallhistime,love,andmoneyonthe _corridas_andencourageshisdaughter's_novio_,anhonestyoungpaper-hanger,tothrowoverhistradeandlearnto_torear_.Aftertwoyearsoftheprovincialarenas,theaspirant,nicknamedintheringTheBaby,hasnothingbuttornclothesandbruisestoshowforhiscareer,andhissweetheart,eagertorecallhimfromthehazardousprofession,vowsawaxenbull,largeaslife,totheVirgin,incasehereturnstopapering,withitshumblesecurityanditsregularityofwages.Maryhears.Onthatgreatoccasion,TheBaby'sdébutatMadrid,thebarber,whohasjustbeenluckyinthelottery,rentsforhima

gorgeoussuitofsecond-handfinery,butinthe_PlazadeToros_notevenarose-and-silverjacketcanshieldaquakingheart.TheBabyisacowardborn,andfromthefirstrushofthefirstbullcomesoffwithabloodycoxcomb,cryingouthisshameontheshoulderofhisPilar,whoshallhenceforthhavehimallherown.

ThelittleartistandIwentintoSpainwiththefirmdeterminationnottopatronizethebull-fight.Halfourresolutionwekept,--herhalf.Whereverweturnedweencounteredsuggestionsofthe_corrida_.Spanishnewspapers,eventhemostserious,devotecolumnsto_Los



Toros_.Bull-fightinghasitsspecialpublications,as_ElToril_and _ElToreoCómico_,anditsspecialdialect.Onthemorningafteraholydaythenewspapersseemactuallysmearedwiththebloodofbeasts.Inthebull-fightseason,fromEastertoAllSaints, _corridas_areheldeverySundayinallthecitiesofsouthernandcentralSpain,whilethesmallertownsandvillagesbutcherasmanybullsastheycanpossiblyafford.TheMayandJunethatIpassedinthecapitalgavemeapeculiarabhorrenceoftheMadridSunday,--thatfeverishexcitementeverywhere;therattleofallthoseextraomnibusesandcarswiththeirred-tasselledmulesinfullgallopforthe_PlazadeToros_;thatsenseoffuriousstruggleandmortalagonyhangingoverthecityallthroughtheslow,hotafternoon;thosegapingcrowdspressingtogreetthe_toreros_,agaudy-suitedcompany,ontheirtriumphalreturninopencarriages;thateagerdiscussionoftheday'stragedyateverystreet-cornerandfromseattoseatalongthe_paseos_,evenatourowndaintydinnertableandonourownbalconiesundertherebukingstars.AtthisstrangeSabbathservicetheInfantaIsabel,whosemother'sbirthwascelebratedbytheslayingofninety-ninebulls,isaregularattendant,occupyingtheroyalboxandwearingthenationalcolors.AFrenchbull-fighter,visitingtheSpanishcapital,wasinvitedbytheInfantatoanaudienceandpresentedwithadiamondpin.NoteventhepublicmourningforCastelarcouldinduceMadridtoforegothe_corrida_onthatSundayjustbeforehisburial.Pasttheverysenate-housewhere

hisbodylayinstaterolledthearistocraticlandaus,whoseladiesdisplayedthegala-wearofwhitemantillas.

ButtheSundayswerenotenough.EveryCatholicfeast-daycalledforitssacrifice.GranadacouldnotdofittinghonortoCorpusChristiwithlessthanthree"_magnificascorridas_."TheroyalsaintofAranjuez,Fernando,musthavehispiousbirthdaykeptbyanorgyofblood.Atthe_fiesta_ofChrist'sAscensionallSpainwasbusystaininghisearthwiththelife-streamofHiscreatures.Valladolidwas,indeed,ashamedtohavetorntodeathonlysevenhorses,butSegoviarejoicedinanexpertwhosatathisworkandkilledhisbullswithdrawing-roomease.Bordeauximprovedtheoccasion,withaidoftwocelebratedSpanish_espadas_,byopeningaFrench_Plazade

Toros_,andValenciahadtheexcitementofsendingtotheinfirmaryone_torero_withabrokenlegandanotherwithacrushedfoot.Suchaccidentsarebynomeansuncommon.A_matador_wasmortallywoundedintheValenciaringthatsummer,a_banderillero_wastrampledattheEscorial,andthosefavoritestabbers,ReverteandBombita,werethemselvesstabbedbyavenginghorns.

Ifthereisatemporarydearthofsaintdays,Spanishingenuitywillneverthelessfindexcusefor_corridas_.Bullsmustbleedforholycharity,--forhospitals,foundlingasylums,thefamiliesofworkmenoutonstrike.IftheFrenchsquadronisatCadiz,hospitalitydemandsabull-fight.Intheinterestsofpopulareducation,anhistorical _corrida_wasarranged,withinstructed_toreros_todisplaythe

specialstylesofbull-killingthathaveprevailedfromtheCidtoGuerrita.Again,asazoölogicalby-play,anelephantwaspittedagainstthebulls.This,too,hadprecedent,fordidnotPhilipIVoncekeephisbirthdaybyturninginamongthehornedherdalion,atiger,acamel,andabear,"allNoah'sarkandÆsop'sfables"?AbullofXaramavanquishedthemeveryoneandreceivedthegraciousrewardofbeingshotdeadbyPhiliphimself.

ItwasonaWednesdayafternoon,atoneofthethreegrand_corridas_ oftheSeville_Feria_,thatIbecameanaccompliceinthisSpanish



crime.OurfriendsinSeville,peopleofcultivationandliberalviews,haddeclaredfromthefirstthatwecouldhavenoconceptionofSpanishlifeandcharacterwithoutsharinginthenational_fiesta_."Weourselvesarenotenthusiasts,"theysaid."Infact,wedisapprovethebull-fight.Weregarditasdemoralizingtothecommunityatlarge.Itis,nevertheless,athingscientific,artistic,heroic, _Spanish_.Besides,alargeportionoftheproceedsgoestocharity.Wedonotattendthe_corridas_,exceptnowandthen,especiallywhenwehaveforeignguestswhowishtoseethem.Beforegoingtheyallregardbull-fightingasyoudo,asanatrocity,abarbarity,butinvariablytheyreturnfromthe_PlazadeToros_filledwithdelightandadmiration.Theysaytheirpreviousideaswereallwrong,thatitisanobleandsplendidspectacle,thattheywanttoseeitagainandagain,thattheycannotbetoogratefultousforhavingdeliveredthemfromprejudice."

Iwincedattheword.Ihaveaprejudiceagainstbeingprejudiced,andtothebull-fightIwent.

Myyieldingcametoolateforsecuringplacesinaboxorinanypartofthehousefromwhichonecanmakeexitduringtheperformance.Ourgory-lookingticketsadmittedustotheuppermostrowofhigh,whitewashed,stoneseatsofthecircusproper,whereweweresooninextricablywedgedinbythehumanmassthatformedaroundandbelow

us.Thehourofwaitingpassedmerrilyenough.Theopenamphitheatre,jammedtoitsfullcapacityoffourteenthousand,layhalfinbrilliantsunlightandhalfincreepingshadow.AboveusarchedtheglowingblueskyofSeville,prickedbytherosyGiralda,andfromtimetotimeastrong-wingedbirdflewover.Thegreatarena,strewnwithyellowsand,wasenclosedbyadarkredbarrierofwood,abouttheheightofaman.Thiswasencircled,atalittledistance,byamoresecureandhigherwallofstone.Theconcoursewaslargelycomposedofmen,bothroughsandgentles,buttherewasnolackofladies,elegantlydressed,norofchildren.Twosweetlittlegirlsinwhite-featheredhatswerejustinfrontofus,dancingupanddowntorelievethethrillsofexpectancy.Whitemantillas,pinnedwithjewels,bentfromtheboxes,whilethedaughtersofthepeopledazzled

theeyewiththeirfestivaldisplayofManilashawls,somepurewhite,somewithcoloredfiguresonawhitegroundorablack,andsomearainbowmazeofcapriciousneedle-work.Therich-huedblossomsofAndalusiawereworninthehairandonthebreast.Thesunnysideofthecircuswasbrightlydottedbyparasols,orange,green,vermilion,andfansinallthecardinalcolorstwinkledlikeashiveredkaleidoscope.Themen'sblackeyesglitteredunderthosebroad _sombreros_,whiteordrab,whiletheypuffedtheircigaretteswithunwontedenergy,scatteringtheashesinsoftgrayshowersovertheirneighborsontheseatsbelow.ThetumultofvoiceshadakeenernoteofexcitementthanIhadyetheardinSpain,andwassoloudandinsistentasoftentodrowntheclashingmusicoftheband.Thecriesofvariousvendersswelledthemightyvolumeofnoise.Water-sellers

invividblousesandsashes,aredhandkerchieftwistedaroundtheneck,ontheleftshoulderacushionoffoldedcarpetingfortheshapely,yellow-brownjar,andasmarttintray,holdingtwoglasses,cordedtothebelt,wentpushingthroughthethrong.Criersoforanges,newspapers,crabs,andcockles,almondcakes,fans,andphotographsofthe_toreros_,strovewithallthemightoftheirlungsagainsttheuniversaluproar.

"Creceelentusiasmo;Crecelaalegría;



Todoesalgazara;Todoesconfusión."

Atempestofapplausemarkedtheentranceinaboxaboveofapopular _primadonna_,whodrapedaresplendentcarminescarfovertherailingbeforeherseat.Immediatelythecompletecircuitoftherailwasablazewithcolor,cloaksandshawlsinstantlyconvertingthemselvesintotapestry.

Atlasttwoattendantsenteredthearena,walkeduptoahydrantinthecentre,fastenedonahose,andwateredthegreatcircle.Theypulledoutthehydrantandrakedsandoverthehole.Simpleastheseactionswere,adreadfulquietfellonallthecircus.

Atrumpetblared.Mounted_alguaciles_,orpolice,trickedoutinancientSpanishcostume,onbluesaddles,andwithtallblueplumesintheirhats,rodeinandclearedthearenaofallstragglers.Adooropened,andforthissuedthefullcircustroupe,makingafineshowoffiligree,andurgingtheirwretchedoldnagstoalastmomentofequineprideandspirit.Amidroarsofwelcome,theyflauntedacrossthesandedenclosureandsalutedthepresidingofficer.Hedroppedthekeyofthe_toril_,thatdarkseriesofcellsintowhichthebullshadbeendrivensomehoursbefore.An_alguacil_caughtthekeyandhandedittothe_torilero_,whoranwithittowardaseconddoor,ominously

surmountedbyagreatbull'shead.Thentherewasatwinklingofthepinkstockingsandblacksandals.Mostofthegaycompanyleapedthebarrier,andeventhe_chulos_whoremainedintheringplacedthemselveswithinconvenientdistanceoftherail.Someofthe _picadores_gallopedout,butafewawaitedthecomingcharge,theirlongpikesinrest.Thedooronwhichalleyeswerebentflewopen,andabellowingredbullrushedin.Thefierce,bloodthirsty,horribleyellthatgreetedhimcheckedhisimpetuousonset.Forafewsecondsthecreaturestoodstock-still,glaringatthescene.Heavenknowswhathethoughtofus.HehadhadfiveperfectyearsoflifeonthebanksoftheGuadalquivír,--onebabyyearbyhismother'sside,oneyearofsportiverovingwithhismates,andthenhadcomethetrialofhisvalor.Hehadfoundalltheherdsmengatheredattheranchone

morning,and,nevertheless,flatteredhimselfthathehadevadedthosehatefulpikes,_garrochas_,thatwerealwaysgoadinghimbackwhenhewouldsallyouttoexplorethegreatgreenworld.Atallevents,herehewasscamperingaloneacrosstheplain.Butpromptlytwohorsemenwereathisheels,andoneofthese,plantingablunt_garrocha_onhisflank,rolledtheyoungsterover.Upagain,pantingwithsurpriseandindignation,hefeltahomesickimpulsetogetbacktotheherd,butthesecondhorsemanwasfullinhispath.Somuchtheworseforthehorseman!Themettlesomeyoungbullloweredhishornsandchargedtheobstacle,onlytobethrownbackwithasmartingshoulder.Ifhehadyieldedthen,hiswouldhavebeenthequietyokeandthelong,dulllifeoflabor,buthejustifiedhisbreed;hechargedanew,andsoprovedhimselfworthyofthearena.Threemoreyearsofthedeep,

greenriver-reedsandthesweetAndalusiansunshine,threeyearsoffree,farrangeandgladcompanionship,andthentheend.Hisdayshadbeenexemptfromburdenonlytosavehiswildyoungstrengthforthefinaltragedy.Onesummermorningthosetraitorsknownasdecoy-oxen,withbellsabouttheneck,cametrottingintotheherd.Thenoblebulls,nowattheirbesthouroflife,thegloryoftheirkind,welcomedthesecunningguestswithfrankdelightandinterest,andwereeasilyinducedtofollowthemandtheirtinklingbellsacrosstherichpastures,alongroughcountryroads,eventothecityitselfandthefatal_PlazadeToros_.Theherdsmenwiththeirreadypikes



gallopedbehindthedrove,andeverywherealongthewaypeasantsandtownsfolkwouldfallinforamileortwotohelpinurgingtheexcitedanimalsonwardtotheircrueldoom.

Inthatstrange,maddeningseaoffaces,thathubbubofhostilevoices,thebull,assoonashisblinkingeyeshadeffectedthechangefromthedarknessofthe_toril_totheglaringlightandgaudycolorsofthecoliseum,caughtsightofahorsemanwiththefamiliarpike.Herewassomethingthatherecognizedandhated.Loweringhishead,thefierybrutedashedwithabellowatthattinselledfigure.Ah,thepikehadneverbeensosharpbefore!Itwentdeepintohisshoulder,butcouldnotholdhimback.Heplungedhishorns,thosemightyspears,intothebodyofthehelpless,blindfoldedhorse,whichthe_picador_,whosejacketwaswellpaddedandwhoselegswerecasediniron,deliberatelyofferedtohiswrath.Thepoorhorseshrieked,plunged,reeled,andfell,the_chulos_deftlydraggingawaythearmoredrider,whilethebullrippedandtrampledthatquiveringcarcass,forwhosetormentnomancared,untilitwasacrimson,formlessheap.

SuchsicknesssweptovermethatIdidnotknowwhatfollowed.WhenIlookedagain,twobloodymassesthathadoncebeenhorsesdisfiguredthearena,andthebull,stuckalloverlikeahedge-hogwithderisive,many-coloreddarts,hadgonedownunderGuerrita'ssteel.

Myfriends,observingwithconcernthatIwasnotenjoyingmyselfasmuchastheyhadpromised,triedtodivertmyattentiontothetechnicalfeaturesoftheirghastlygame.Itwasreally,theyexplained,adramainthreeacts.Itisthepartofthemounted _picador_todrawoffthefirstrageandvigorofthebull,weakeninghim,butnotslayinghim,bysuccessivewounds.Thenthejaunty _banderilleros_,thestreamersofwhosedartsmustcorrespondincolorwiththeircostumes,supplyapicturesqueandamusingelement,acomicinterlude.Finallyan_espada_,or_matador_,advancesalonetodespatchthetorturedcreature.Thedeath-blowcanbedealtonlyinoneofseveralfashions,establishedbyruleandprecedent,andthe _espada_whoisstartledintoanunprofessionalthrustreapsabitter

harvestofscoffsandhisses.

Ateamofgayly-caparisonedmuleswithjinglingbellshadmeanwhiletrundledawaythemangledbodiesoftheslaughteredanimals,freshsandhadbeenthrownovertheplacesslipperywithblood,andthebandpealedtheentranceofthesecondbull.Thiswasademon,blackasacoal,withamarvellousprideandspiritthatavailedhimnothing.Horseafterhorsecrasheddownbeforehisfuriousrushes,whilethecircus,drunkwithglee,shoutedformorevictimsandmoreandmore.Itwasamassacre.Atlastourhideousgreedwasglutted,andthe _banderilleros_tooktheirturninbaitingthenowenfeebledbutundauntedbull.Wildlyheshookhimself,theforehalfofhisbodyalreadyafloodofcrimson,tothrowofftheignominyofthose

stingingdarts.The_chulos_frettedandfooledhimwiththeirwavingcloaksofredandyellow,tillatlastthecreaturegrewhushedandsullen.Astrainofmusicannouncedthatthe_matador_Fuenteswasaskingbeneaththepresident'sboxpermissiontokillthebull.Formypart,Igavethebullpermissiontokilltheman.Fuentes,allprankedoutingrayandgold,holdinghiskeenbladebehindhimandflourishingascarletsquareofcloth,swingingfromarod,the _muleta_,advanceduponthebrute.Thatbleedingbodyshookwithanewaccessofrage,andtheother_espadas_drewnearandstoodatwatch.Butevenbeforeablowwasstruckthesplendid,murderedcreaturesank



tohisknees,staggereduponcemore,sankagainwithcrimsonfoamuponhismouth,andthemusicclashedjubilantlywhileFuentesdrovetheweaponhome.Andagaintheteamofmules,withfoolishtossingoftheirbright-ribbonedheads,jerkedandjoltedtheirdeadkindredoffthescene.

Thethirdbullgallopedinwitharoarthatwasheardfarbeyondthe _Plaza_andgoredhisfirsttwohorsessopromptlyandsofrightfullythat,whilethehaplessbeastsstillstruggledintheiragony,theamphitheatrehowledwithdeliriousjoy.Several_capas_werecaughtawayonthoseswift,effectivehorns,andone_picador_washurt.Buttherainofdartsteasedandbewilderedthebulltothepointofstupidity,althoughhewasdangerousyet.

"Darkishishideoneitherside,butthebloodwithindothboil;Andthedunhideglows,asifonfire,ashepawstotheturmoil.Hiseyesarejet,andtheyaresetincrystalringsofsnow;Butnowtheystarewithoneredglareofbrassuponthefoe."

ItwastheturnofBombita,adandyindark-greensuitwithsilvertrimmings;buthiscomrades,paleandintent,stoodnotfaroffandfromtimetotime,byirritatingpasses,drewthebull'swrathuponthemselves,wearyinghimevermoreandmore,untilatlastBombitahadhischancetoplantatellingblow.

Woulditneverend?Againthefataldoorswungopen,andthefourthbullboundedintoplayhistragicrôle.Hewasofchoicestpedigree,buttheutterstrangenessofthesceneturnedhistaurinewits.Hemadedistractedandaimlessrusheshitherandthither,unheedingtheprovocationsofthehorsemen,untilhecameuponthespotdrenchedwithhispredecessor'slife-blood.Hepawedawaythehastycoveringofsand,sniffedatthatominousstain,andthen,throwinguphisheadwithastrangebellow,boltedbacktothedoorbywhichhehadentered,andturnedtailtothearena.Thefourteenthousand,crazywithrage,sprangtotheirfeet,shooktheirfists,calledhim_cow_.The_chulos_brandishedtheircloaksabouthishorns;menleanedoverfromthebarrierandproddedhimwithstaffs.Finally,indesperation,

heturnedonthenearesthorse,rentitandboreitdown.The _picador_,oncesetupbythe_chulos_uponhisstiff,iron-casedlegs,hisyellowfinerystreakedwithredfromhislaceratedhorse,tuggedsavagelyatthebridletoforcethatdyingcreaturetoasecondstand.Oneattendantwrencheditbythetail,anotherbeatitviciouslyovertheface;theall-enduringbeast,hisentrailsswingingfromacrimsongash,struggledtohisfeet.The_picador_mounted,droveinthespurs,andthehorse,rockingandpitching,accomplishedafewblindpacestowardthosedrippinghornsthathorriblyawaitedhim.Buttotheamazementandscandalofthe_aficionados_,thecircusraisedacryofprotest,andthediscomfitedridersprangdownintheverymomentwhenhishorsefelltorisenomore.A_chulo_,athisleisurelyconvenience,quietedthosekickinghoofsbyastab,--theone

dropofmercyinthatoceanofhumanoutrage.

Straw-coloreddarts,wine-coloreddarts,sky-coloreddarts,wereprickingthebulltofrenzy.Iwishedhehadanyhalf-dozenofhisenemiesinaclearpasture.Thoseglitteringdragon-flieswerealwaysjustoutofreach,buthestumbledonthesoddenshapeoftheunhappyhorseandtosseditagainandagain,makingthepoorcarcassflingupitsheadandarchitsneckinghastlymockeryoflife.Cowardiceavailsabullaslittleascourage.Thissorryfighterhadbeendeeplypiercedbythe_garrochas_,andnow,ashegallopedclumsilyabout



thearena,inunavailingeffortstoescapefromhistormentors,hisviolent,foolishplungesmadethedarkbloodflowthefaster.ItwasGuerrita,Guerritatheadored,Guerritaingold-lacedjacketandviolettrousers,whostrucktheultimateblow,andsocleverlythat _sombreros_andcigarettes,orangesandpocket-flasks,cameraining,amidfuriesofapplause,intothearena.ThiswassuchaproudmomentashehaddreamedoflongagointheCordovaslaughter-house,when,thelittlesonoftheslaughter-houseporter,hehadstolenfromhisbedatmidnighttoplay_altoro_withthecalves,andthenandtherehadsolemnlydedicatedhimselftothegloriousprofession.NowthemasterofhisartandtheidolofallSpain,easilymakinghisseventy-fivethousanddollarsayear,earning,infact,threethousandonthatsingleafternoon,Guerritalittleforesawthatwiththecomingautumnheshouldgoonpilgrimageto_LaVirgendelPilar_,andbeforeherbelovedshrineatSaragossacutoffhisbull-fighter'spigtailandrenouncethering.

Thefifthbullwasblackasebony.Hedashedfearlesslyintothearena,chargedandwheeledandtossedhishornsinthesplendorofhisstrength,sendingeveryred-vested_chulo_scramblingoverthewall.Thenhebackedtothemiddleofthesandedcircle,snortingandpawingtheearth.Anotherinstant,andthenearesthorseandriderwentcrashingagainstthebarrier.The_picador_,withabruisedface,forcedupthegaspinghorse,mountedandrodeit,thebeasttreading

outitsentrailsasitwent,tomeetasecondcharge.Buttheswayinghorsefelldeadbeforeitreachedthoseloweredhornsagain.Thenext _picador_,too,wentdownheavilyunderhisjadeandreceivedanawkwardsprain.Hemountedoncemore,toshowthathecould,andthecircuscheeredhim,buthishorse,torntodeath,couldnotbearhisweight.Hegaveitanangrypushwiththefootasheleftitwrithinginitslife-blood.Thiswhirlwindofabull,whoshookoffallbutoneofthe_banderillas_,mortifiedeventhe_matadores_.Disregardingtheredrag,herushedatFuenteshimself.Thenimble_torero_leaptaside,butthebull'shornstruckhisswordandsentitspinninghalfacrossthearena.Hiscomradesimmediatelyran,withwaving_capas_ andbrightsteel,tohisaid,butthattoointelligentbull,fightingforhislife,kepthisfoesatbayuntilthecircushissedwith

impatience.The_toreros_,visiblynettled,gatheredcloserandcloser,buthadtoplaythatdeath-gamecautiously.Thisbullwasdangerous.Thecoliseumfoundhimtedious.Hetooktoolongindying.Stabbedagainandagainandagain,heyetagonizedtohisfeetandshookthosecrimsonedhornsathistormentors,whostillhungback.Itreallywasdull.The_matadores_buzzedabouthim,worryinghisdyingsight,buthestoodsullenintheirmidst,refusingthechargestowhichtheytemptedhim,guardinghislastdropsofstrength,and,cardinaloffenceina_toro_,holdinghisheadtoohighfortheprofessionalstroke.Hisvitalforcewasebbing.Redfoamdrippedfromhismouth.Thatwearyhoofnolongerpawedtheearth.ThepeopleshoutedinsultseventotheirpetGuerrita,butGuerrita,liketherest,stoodbaffled.Atlastthatformidablefigure,nolongerblack,

butaredglazeofbloodandsweatandfoam,fellinasuddenconvulsion.Thenhisvaliantmurderersspranguponhim,thestabscamethickandfast,andthejinglingmule-teamprancedintoformhisfuneralcortège.

Onemore,--thesixth.Iwaslongpastindignation,pastanyacutenessofpain,simplysickenedthroughbodyandsoulandunutterablyweariedwiththishideousmonotonyofslaughter.Thelastbull,awhitestarshiningonhisblackforehead,toreintothearena,racedallaboutthecircle,andstruckwithamazingrapiditywhereverhesaw



afoe.Threehorsesweredown,wereupagain,andwereforced,allwithtrailingintestines,toasecondcharge.Thebullflashedlikeathunderboltfromonetoanother,rendinganddiggingwithhissavagehorns,untilthreemangledbodieswrithedonthereddenedsand,andstabberswatchedtheirchancestorunforwardandquietwiththeknifethehorriblebeatingofthosehoofsinair.Thecircusyelleddelight.Ithadallbeentheworkofamoment,--abravebull,agreatsensation!Fortheperformersitwasrathertoomuchofagoodthing.Thosedisembowelledcarcassesclutteredupthearena.Thescatteredentrailswereslipperyunderfoot.Thedart-throwershastenedtothenextactofthetragedy.Theirswasasubtletytoomuchforthefury-fuddledwitsofthatmighty,blunderingbrute.Hegallopedtoandfro,spendinghisstrengthinuselesschargesand,ascoreoftimes,ignoringthementohookwildlyattheirbrandishedstripsofcoloredcloth.Thedartshadbeenplantedandhewaslosingblood.The _matador_wenttohiswork,buttheuncivilbulldidnotmakeiteasyforhim.Bombitacouldnotgetinahandsomeblow.Thehousebegantohootandtaunt.Astentorianvoicecalledtohimto"killthatbullto-morrow."Exasperatedbythelaughterthatgreetedthissally,BombitadrovehisToledobladetoitsmark.Whilethefinalsceneofgeneralstabbingwasgoingon,boys,men,evenwomenvaultedintothearena,playedoveragainwithoneanotherthemorememorableincidents,rantoinspectthoseshapelesscarcassesofwhatGodcreatedhorses,andescortedthefuneraltrainofthebull,one

smallboyridingingleefultriumphontopofthegreatblackbody,harmlessandstillatlast.Aswepassedoutbyahallwaywherethedeadanimalshadbeendragged,wehadtopickourwaythroughpoolsofbloodandclotsofentrails.Thusbytheroadoftheshambleswecameforthfromhell.

[Illustration:THEGIRALDA]

"Idonotunderstandatall,"sincerelyprotestedmySpanishhost,disconcertedbythecontinuednauseaandhorrorofreddreamswhich,justlyenough,pursuedmeforweeksafter."Itwasaveryfavorable _corrida_forabeginner,--noseriousaccident,nouseofthefire-darts,nohoughingofthebullwiththedemi-lune,nothing

objectionable.And,afterall,animalsareonlyanimals;theyarenotChristians."

"WhoweretheChristiansinthatcircus?"Iasked."Howcoulddevilshavebeenworsethanwe?"

Hehalfglancedtowardthemorningpaperbutwastookindlytospeakhisthought.Itwasnotnecessary.Ihadreadthepaper,whichgavehalfacolumntoadetailedaccountofarecentlynching,withtorture,intheUnitedStates.

X

GYPSIES

"'Lifeissweet,brother.'

"'Doyouthinkso?'

"'Thinkso!--There'snightandday,brother,bothsweet



things;sun,moon,andstars,brother,allsweetthings;there'slikewiseawindontheheath.Lifeisverysweet,brother;whowouldwishtodie?'

"'Iwouldwishtodie.'

"'Youtalklikeagorgio--whichisthesameastalkinglikeafool--wereyouaRommanyChalyouwouldtalkwiser.Wishtodie,indeed!--ARommanyChalwouldwishtoliveforever!'

"'Insickness,Jasper?'

"'There'sthesunandstars,brother.'

"'Inblindness,Jasper?'

"'There'sthewindontheheath,brother;ifIcouldonlyfeelthat,Iwouldgladlyliveforever._Dosta_,we'llnowgotothetentsandputonthegloves;andI'lltrytomakeyoufeelwhatasweetthingitistobealive,brother!'"--GEORGEBORROW.

NoforeignerhasknowntheZingalibetterthanGeorgeBorrow,the

linguisticEnglishman,whocouldspeakRommanysowellthatgypsiesalloverEuropetookhimforabrother.IntheemployoftheEnglishBibleSociety,hespentsomefiveadventurousyearsinSpain,wanderingthroughthewildsandsharingthelifeofshepherds,muleteers,eventhefierce_gitanos_.AshefoundtheSpanishgypsieshalfacenturyago,so,inessentials,aretheystill--themenjockeys,tinkers,andblacksmiths,thewomenfortunetellersanddancers,thechildrenthemostshamelesslittlebeggarsofallthePeninsula.Yettherehasbeenanimprovement.

The_gitanos_arenotsuchruffiansasofold,norevensucharrantthieves,althoughitwouldstillbeunwisetotrustthemwithincalloftemptation.

"Thererunsaswinedownyonderhill,Asfastase'erhecan,Andasherunshecriethstill,'Come,stealme,Gypsyman.'"

StillmorecompromisingistheChristmascarol:--

"IntotheporchofBethlehemHavecreptthegypsieswild,AndtheyhavestolentheswaddlingclothesOfthenew-bornHolyChild.

"Oh,thoseswarthygypsies!Whatwon'ttherascalsdare?TheyhavenotlefttheChristChildAsingleshredtowear."

Therearewealthygypsies,whosewivesanddaughtersgoarrayedwiththeutmosteleganceoffashion,inseveralSpanishcities.Sevillehashergypsylawyer,buthergypsybull-fighter,whodiedtwoyearsago,washeldtoreflectevengreatercreditontheparentstock.



BylawthegypsiesarenowestablishedasSpaniards,withfullclaimtoSpanishrightsandprivileges--_NuevosCastellanos_,astheyhavebeencalledsincethedaywhenSpainbethoughtheroftheseIshmaelsas"foodforpowder"andsubjectedthemtotheregularmilitarydraft.EveninGranada,wherethegypsycommunitystilllivesinsemi-barbarism,therearehopefulsigns.The_gitanos_driveasharptradeindonkeys,buttheirforgefires,gleamingfaruptheAlbaicínintheevening,testifytotheirindustry.Therecentopeningbythemunicipalityofschoolsforthegypsychildrenhasalreadywroughtamarkedchangeforthebetter.Somehalf-dozendirtylittlepalms,outstretchedfor_cincocentimos_,pesterthestrangerto-daywherescoresusedtotormenthim,andthemotherstakeprideintheliteraryaccomplishmentsoftheirtawnybroods.Ononeoccasion,when,having,astheSpanishsay,"cleanpockets,"Ifirmlydeclinedtoseeasmallgypsygirldanceorhearhersing,themotherassuredme,asalastgreedyexpedient,that"thechildcouldpray."

OntheAlhambrahillthegypsies,whoscenttouristsfromafarandtroopthither,onthetrackofnewlyarrivedparties,likewolvestotheirbanquet,arepicturesquefiguresenough,themeninpeakedhats,spangledjackets,andsashesofredsilk,thewomenwithbrighthandkerchiefsboundovertheirravenhair,largesilverearrings,gaybodices,andshort,flouncedpetticoats.

Thereisoneold_gitano_,inresplendentattire,whohauntstheAlhambradoorsandintroduceshimselftovisitors,withbowsqueerlycompoundedofcondescensionandsupplication,astheKingoftheGypsies,modestlyofferinghisphotographfora_peseta_.IfyouturntoyourattendantSpaniardandask,_sottovoce_,"ButisthistrulytheGypsyKing?"youwillreceiveapromptaffirmative,whilethequick-wittedoldmasqueraderstrikesaroyalattitude,rollshiseyesprodigiously,andtwirlshisthree-corneredhatatarm'slengthabovehishead,untilitstinselornamentssparklelikecrownjewels.ButnosoonerishisMajestywelloutofhearingthanyourguidehastenstoeathisownwords."No,no,no!HeisnottheKingoftheGypsies,butheisagypsy,yes,anditisbetternottohavehisillwill."

Whetherthishardenedpretendercouldcasttheevileyeornot,weneverknew,forhavingboughttwoofhispicturesatthefirstonset,wesufferedeverafterwardthesunshineofhisfavor.Infactweoftenmadeawidedetourratherthanpasshimonthehill,forhewouldspringtohisfeetatourremotestapproachandstandbowinglikeanimageofperpetualmotion,hishatbrandishedhighinair,untilourutmostinthewayofansweringnodsandsmilesseemedbycontrastsheerdemocraticincivility.

TheswarthyfacesandglitteringeyesofthegypsiesmeetoneeverywhereintheGranadastreets,buttoseethemintheirownprecinctitisnecessarytotakeoffyourwatch,emptyyourpocketsofallbutsmallsilverandcoppers,andgototheAlbaicín.Thishill,

partedfromtheAlhambrabythedeepravineofthegold-bearingDarro,wasinMoorishtimesthechosenresidenceofthearistocracy.StillArabianarchesspanthegorge,andmanyofthetopplingoldhousesthatleanovertheswift,mountain-borncurrent,shabbyastheylooktothepasser-by,arebeautifulwithinwitharabesqueandfretwork,carvenniches,delicatecolumnsandopenpatios,wherefountainsstillgushandorangeblossomsstillshedfragrance.Suchdegeneratepalacesareoftenoccupiedbythebetterclassofgypsies,thosewhotrafficinhorses,aswellasindonkeys,whiletheirwomen,groupedinthecourtsanddoorways,embroiderwithrainbowwools,inallfantastic



patterns,thestoutmantlesoftheAndalusianmountaineers.

AsweclimbedtheAlbaicín,frontingasitdoesthehilloftheAlhambra,theexceedingbeautyoftheviewatfirstclaimedallourpowerofseeing.BelowwasthegraysweepofthecityandbeyondthefruitfulplainofGranada,itsvividgreenshadingintoafar-offdimnesslikethesea.JustoppositeusrosethefortressoftheAlhambra,aproudthoughbrokengirdleofwallsandtowers,whileinthebackgroundsoaredthedazzlingsnowpeaksoftheSierraNevada,glisteningwithunbearablesplendorundertheintenseblueoftheAndalusiansky.

InthemidstofourrhapsodiesIbecameawareofashrillvoiceatmyfeet,apersistenttugatmyskirts,andreluctantlydroppedmyeyesonacomelylittlegypsylasslyingalongasunnyledgeandimperiouslydemanding_cincocentimos_.

"Nowwhatwouldyoudowith_cincocentimos_ifyouhadthem?"

Withtheuniversalbeggargestureshepointedtohermouth."Buyarusk.Iamstarving.Iamalreadydeadofhunger."

Crossingherhandsuponherbreast,sheclosedhereyesintokenofhermortalextremity,butinstantlyflashedthemopenagaintonote

theeffect."Yourcheeksarenotthecheeksoffamine."

Atabreaththeyoungsorceresssuckedtheminandsucceeded,plumplittlepersonthoughshewas,inlookingsohaggardandsowoe-begonethatourpoliticaleconomybrokedowninlaughter,andwegaveherthecovetedcentinreturnforhertransformationact.

Offshedarted,withherwildlocksflyinginthewind,andwasbackinatwinkling,acircletofbreadsuspendedfromherarm.Shetrippedalongbesideusfortherestoftheafternoon,usingtherusksometimesasahoop,sometimesasacrown,sometimesasapeephole.

Shetossedit,sangthroughit,dandledit,strokedit,andoccasionally,whilethebreadapproximatedmoreandmoreinhuetoherowngypsycomplexion,tookanartisticnibble,dottingthesurfacewithasymmetricalcurveofbites.Itwasnotmerefoodtoher;itwasluxury,itwasmirth--likeaLordMayor'sfeastoraDelmonicobreakfast.

Followingthe_CaminodelSacroMonte_,markedbymanycrosses,ourattentionwasmoreandmorewithdrawnfromthemajesticviewsspreadoutbeforeustothegypsies,whosecavedwellingslinedtheway.Burrowingintotheearth,fromthemidstofthicketsofpricklypear,arethesestrangeabodes,whosechimneysriseabruptlyoutofthegreensurfaceofthehillside.Densastheyare,thebestofthem

possesssomedecencies.Flapsofclothservethemfordoors,theirpeeringfrontsarewhitewashed,theyarefurnishedwithastoolortwo,aboxoftoolsorclothing,afewwater-jars,aguitar,and,inthefartherendofthelair,afamilybedstead,ormoreoftenaheapofdirtysheepskins.Cookingtins,bottles,saddles,andcoilsofropehangontheroughwalls;theremaybeashelfofamuletsandtoysforsale,andtheindispensablepotof_puchero_simmersoverahandfuloffire.

Outfromthesesavagehomesswarmedawhining,coaxing,importunate



hordeofsly-eyedwomenandanimpishrabbleofchildren.Youngandoldclutchedatuswithuncleanhands,clungtouswithsinewybrownarms,begged,flattered,demanded,anddraggedusbodilyintotheirhill.WefeltasifwehadgonebacktoGermanfairytalesandhadfallenintotheevilgripofthegnomes.Hardlycouldescort,carriage,andarecklessrainofcoppersbreakthespell.Wewereforcedtotastetheirrepulsivemesses,tocrosswitchpalmswithsilver,tobuyeventheroadsideweedstheurchinsgatheredbeforeoureyes.Wewerebirdsfortheplucking,sheepfortheshearing.Onlywhenwehadturnedourpocketsinsideouttoshowthatwehadnota"littledog"left,werewesufferedtogofree,followed,doubtless,bythecursesofEgypt,becausewehadyieldedsuchpoorpicking.

InSeville,too,thegypsieshavetheirownquarter,butinproportionasSevilleisagentlercitythanGranada,soarethelooksandmannersofhergypsypopulationmoreattractive.CrossingtheyellowGuadalquivírbythebridgeofIsabelSegunda,wecomeimmediatelyonthepicturesque,dark-visagedfigures,withtheiruneffacedsuggestionofwildness,offreedom,oftraditionsapartfromthecommonhumdrumofhumanity.Theboy,cladinoneflutteringgarment,whoisperilouslybalancinghisslenderbrownbodyontheironrail;thebright-kerchiefedyoungmother,thrustinghertinyblackbantlingintoourfaces;thesilent,swarthymenwholeanalongthebridgeside,litheevenintheirlounging;--allhavealatentfiercenessintheir

look.Theireyesarekeenasknives--strangeeyes,whoseglittermasksthedepth.Butaswegoonintothepotter'ssuburbofTriana,intothethickofthegypsylife,wearenotmoreseriouslymolestedthanbythecontinualbegging,noristhistherough,imperiousbeggingofGranada;aflavorofSevilliangraceandfunhaspasseduponit.Offerthisbush-headedlad,pleadingstarvation,theorangehehasjusttossedaway,andhewilldoubleupoverthejokeandtaketohislittlebareheels.Givetothefawningsibylwhoinsistsontellingyourfortunearedroseforherhair,andthechancesarethatshewillrestcontent.Butthetimetoseethegypsiesintheirgloryisduringthethreedaysandnightsofthe_Feria_.

Ontheeighteenth,nineteenth,andtwentiethofAprilSevilleannually

keeps,onthe_PradodeSanSebastian_,wheretheInquisitionusedtolightitsfires,theblithestofspringfestivals.The_Feria_isafair,butmuchmorethanafair.Therearedrovesupondrovesofhorses,donkeys,cattle,goats,sheep,andpigs.Therearerowsuponrowsofboothswithtoys,boothswithnutsandcandies,boothswiththegay-handledAlbaceteknivesanddaggers.Therearebasketsuponbasketsofrainbowfans,mimicfightingcocks,oranges,andothercheapSevillianspecialties.Coolingdrinksareonsaleateveryturn,butthereisnodrunkenness.Therearethousandsandtensofthousandsofpeopleinmotion,butthereisnobustling,noelbowing,norudenessofpressure.Daintylittlechildrenwanderaloneinthattremendousthrong.Theorderandtranquillitythatprevailbydayandnightinthismultitudeofmerrymakersrenderitpossibleforthe

_Feria_tobewhatitis.ForduringtheseenchantedAprilhourseventhenoblestfamiliesofSevillecomeforthfromtheproudseclusionoftheirpatiosandlivein_casetas_,littlerustichousesthatarescarcelymorethanopentents,exposedtothegazeofeverypasser-by.

Aloftybridge,crossedbytwobroadflightsofstairsandtaperingtoatower,standsattheintersectionofthethreechief_Feria_ avenues.Thebridgeisbrilliantlyilluminatedbynight,andclose-setglobesofgas,loopedonrunningtubesalongbothsidesofthesethreefestalstreets,pourfloodsoflightintothe_casetas_.



Chineselanternsinredandyellowabound,andlinesofbanner-staffsflaunttheSpanishcolors.The_casetas_areusuallyconstructedofwhitecanvasonaframeworkoflight-brownfretwood,thoughthematerialsaresometimesmoredurable.

Clubhousesarelargeandelaborate,andindividualtastevariestheaspectoftheprivatetents.ThemoreimportantfamiliesofSevilleowntheir_casetas_,butingeneraltheseairyabodesarerentedfromyeartoyear,thepriceforthethreedaysofthe_Feria_rangingfromtwenty-fivedollarsonthecentralavenuetofivedollarsforthemoreremotehouseletsonthetwostreetsthatbranchoffatrightangles.Thenumerousbywaysareoccupiedbycafés,booths,pennyshows,andthelike,thegypsieshavingonesideofalanetothemselves.Theothersideisgivenovertocircus-rings,merry-go-rounds,cradle-swingsmarked"ForHavana,""ForManila,""ForMadrid,"dancingdwarfs,brayingbands,cagedbulls,andtentsprovidedwithpeepholesthroughwhichonemaysee"TheGloriousVictoryoftheSpanishTroopsatSantiago,"andothersurprisingpanoramasoftherecentwar.Theseareinhighfavorwithsoldiersandsmallboys,whoseblackheadsbumptogetherateveryaperture.

Suchattractionsareespeciallypotentoverthecountryfolk,whocomejoggingintoSevilleduringfairtime,mountedtwoorthreetogetheronjadedhorses,sorrymules,andevenonindignantlittledonkeys.

Theirpeasantcostumesaddrichlytothecharmofthespectacle,andtheirsimplicitymakesthemaneasyspoilforthecannyfolkofEgypt.Youseethemespeciallyinthecooloftheearlymorning,whentradeincattleisatitsliveliest.Tentoonetheyhavebeenfleecedalreadybythe_gitanos_,who,outinthegreatmeadowwherethelive-stockisexposedforsale,havetheirowncornerfor"deaddonkeys,"astheSevillianstermthedecrepitoldbeaststhathavebeenmagicallysprucedupfortheoccasion.Cervanteshashisjestat"agypsy'sass,withquicksilverinitsears."

Thencomestheturnofthe_gitanas_,lookingtheirprettiest,withrosesinhair,andovertheshouldersthosecaptivatingblacksilkshawlsembroideredinmany-coloredpatternsofbirdsandflowers.The

youngerenchantresseskeepwatch,eachinfrontofherfamilytent,beforewhosepartedcurtainsthemoreill-favoredwomenofthehouseholdarebusyfryingthecrispbrown_buñuelos_,aspeciesofdoughnutdeartotheSpanishtooth.

Asyouloiterdownthelane,beyouwide-eyedshepherdfromtheprovinces,orelegantgrandeefromMadrid,orhaughtyforeignerfromLondonorVienna,thesturdysirensrushuponyou,seizeyoubyarmorneck,andbymainforcetugyouintotheirtentedprisons,fromwhichyoumustgnawyourwayoutthroughaheapofhot_buñuelos_.OryoumaycompromiseonacupofSpanishchocolate,flavoredwithcinnamonandthickasflannel,orperhapswinyourlibertybygulpingdownacupfulofwarmgoat'smilk.Thepricesshocktheportliestpurses,but

atyourfirstfaintsignofprotestagatheringmobofgypsiespressesclosewithjeersandhisses,andeventhefrying-pansputterscontempt.

The_Feria_presentsitsmostquietaspectduringtheafternoon.Sometwentyorthirtythousandofthepromenadershavebeendrawnoffbythesuperiorattractionofthebull-fight,andothershaveretiredfortheirsiestas.Yettherearethousandsleft.Thisisagrandtimeforthechildren,whodisportthemselvesintheavenueswithwhistles,swords,balls,kites,andothertrophiesfromthetoybooths.These



littlepeopleareexquisitelydressed,oftenintheoldAndalusiancostumes,andtinyladandtinylass,ofaristocraticlookandbearing,maybeseentrippingtogetherthroughoneofthegracefulnationaldancesinthemidstofasidewalkthrong.Thetoddlers,too,areout,underchargeofhappynursemaids.

Eventhebabieshavebeenbroughttothefair,andlie,contentedlysuckingtheirrosythumbs,inthedoorwaysofthe_casetas_.Thelordsofthesedoll-housesareenjoyingpeacefulsmokestogetherinthebackgroundoftheopenparlors,whicharefurnishedwithasmanychairsaspossible,apiano,andacentralstandofflowers;whilesemicirclesofsilentladies,languidlywavingthemostexquisiteoffans,sitnearerthefront,watchingtheceaselessstreamofpedestrians,andbeyondthesethedoubleprocessionofcarriages,whichkeepcloserankastheyadvanceononesideoftheavenueandreturnontheother.Itisbadformnottogotothe_Feria_onceatleastinacarriage.Largefamiliesoflimitedmeanshirespaciousvehiclesresemblingomnibuses,and,squeezedtogetherintwooppositerows,driveupanddownthethreechiefstreetsforhours.

Therearecrestedlandaus,withhandsomehorses,gaydonkey-carts,deckedoutwithwreathsandtassels,shabbycabs,sportingredandyellowribbonsontheirwhips,tootingcoaches--everysortandkindofcontrivanceforrelievinghumanityofitsownweight.Thereare

mountedcavaliersinplenty,andoccasionally,underduemasculineescort,afair-hairedEnglishgirlridesby,oragroupofSpanishseñoras,whohavecomeintoSevilleonhorsebackfromtheircountryhomes.Butallthismovementisslowanddreamy,theplayofthechildrenbeingasgentleasthewavingofthefans.

EvenGypsyLanesharesinthetranquillityofthedrowsyafternoon.Wewerecapturedtherealmostwithoutviolence,and,whilewetrifledwiththeslightestrefreshmentwecouldfind,ajuvenileentertainmentbeguiledusofourcopperswithpleasurableease.Acoquettishmidgetoffoursummersinnocentlydancedforusthedancesthatarenotinnocent,andaweegoblinofseven,whocouldnotbeinducedtoperformwithoutacap,thathemightpullitdownoverhisbashful

eyes,stampedandkicked,madestealthyapproachesandfiercestartsofattackthroughthesavagehuntingjigsinheritedfromtheancientlifeofthewilderness.Thewomenswungtheirarmsandshrilledwildtunestourgethechildrenon,butasecondyoungsterwhoattemptedoneofthesebarbaricdancesforusbrokedowninmidcareer,and,amidachorusofscreaminglaughter,buriedhisblushesinhismother'slap.Thetenthadbecomecrowdedwithstalwart,black _gitanos_,buttheywereinadomesticmood,smiledonthechildren'santics,andeyeduswithgrimamusementasthewomencaughtupfromroughcradlesandthrustintoourarmsthoseelfishbabiesoftheirs.Eventheinfantoffivedayswinkedatuswithtrickeryinitsjetbeadsofvision.Butsoinertwasgypsyenterprisethatweweresufferedtodepartwithafew_pesetas_yetinourpossession.

Intheevening,fromeighttillone,the_Feria_isperfectFairyland.Underthelightofthoseclusteredgasglobesandbutterfly-coloredlanternspassandrepasstheloveliestwomenoftheworld.Beautifullycladastheseñoritashavebeenduringmorningandafternoon,theireveningtoiletsexcelandcrowntherest.White-robed,white-sandalled,theirbrown,bewitchingfacespeepingoutfromthelacefoldsofwhitemantillas,withwhiteshawls,embroideredinglowinghues,foldedoverthearm,anddelicatewhitefansinhand,theylooktheverypoetryofmaidenhood.Monthsofsaving,weeksofstitching,thesecostumesmay



havecost,butthe_Feria_is,aboveall,amarriagemart,andtheAndalusiangirl,usuallysostrictlyguarded,sojealouslysecluded,neverallowedtowalkorshopalone,isnowonexhibition.Astheseradiantformsglidealongtheavenues,themenwhomeetthemcoollybendandlookfullintotheirfaces,scanninglineandfeaturewiththecriticalairofconnoisseurs.ButwellthesecavaliersillustratetheAndalusiancatch:--

"BecauseIlooktheeintheface,Setnotforthisthyhopestoohigh,Formanygotothemarket-placeToseeandnottobuy."

Thegirl'sopportunityisinherdancing.EveryAndalusianwoman,highorlow,knowsthe_Sevillana_.Somehavebeentrainedinitbyaccreditedteachersoftheart,butthemostlearnthedanceinchildhood,asnaturallyastheylearntospeakandsing.Theyareneverwearyofdancingit,morning,noon,andnight,twogirlstogether,oragirlandalad,butsuchdancingisconfinedtotheMoorishprivacyoftheSpanishhome--exceptinFairtime.Thenthewholeworldmaystandbeforethe_casetas_andseethechoicestdaughtersofSevilledancingthedancethatisverycoquetryinmotion.Rowsofgirlsawaitingtheirturn,andofmatronswhoarechaperoningthespectacle,sitaboutthethreesidesofthemimic

drawing-room.Adensecrowdofmen,crying"_Ole!Ole!_"andcommentingasfreelyonthefiguresandposturesofthedancersasiftheywereballetartistesinacaféchantant,isgatheredcloseinfront.Fortheirviewtheserhythmicmaidensdanceon,hourafterhour,untiltheirgreat,duskyeyesaredimwithsleep.Thetasselsofcurlyribbon,tintedtomatchthedaintytouchesofcolorintheircostumes,seemtodroopinexhaustionfromthetossingcastanets.Whatmatter?ForaSpanishgirltoreachhertwenty-fifthbirthdaywithouta_novio_isatragedyoffailure,andthesetireddancersarewellawarethat_caballeros_aremakingtheroundsfrom_caseta_to _caseta_,onpurposetoselectawife.

InGypsyLanethereisnosugarcoating.TheFlamencodancesare

directlyseductive.Thelifeoftheforestanimalseemsreproducedinthefierceness,thefitfulness,theabandon,ofeachstrangeseriesofabruptgesticulations.Yetthesegypsywomen,boldlyastheyplayonthepassionsofthespectators,careonlyforGentilemoney,andflingoffwithfieryscorntheaddressesthattheirsongsanddancescourt.Manyafloutedgallantcouldtellthetaleofonewho

"Likearightgypsy,hath,atfastandloose,Beguiledmetotheveryheartofloss."

Husbandsandloverslookonatthedancers'mostextremeposes,evencaresses,innonchalantsecurity.Whileone_gitana_afteranothertakesthestage,acrescentofmenandwomen,seatedbehind,cheerher

onwithcriesandclappings,strummingsoftheguitar,andfrenziedbeatingsofthefloorwithstaffandstool.Yettheirexcitement,evenatitsapparentheight,neversweepsthemoutoftheircraftyselves.Beyondthedancertheyseetheaudience.Disdainanddislikeareintheatmosphere,andnevermorethanwhentherainofsilverisatitsrichest.Stilltheyfollowthegypsylaw,"Tocheatandrobthestrangeralwaysandever,andbetrueonlytoourownblood."

[Illustration:THEPASSINGOFTHEPAGEANTS]



XI

THEROUTEOFTHESILVERFLEETS

"Paul,thePhysician,toCristobalColombo,greeting.Iperceiveyourmagnificentandgreatdesiretofindawaytowherethespicesgrow."

"Andthusleadetheytheirlyvesinfullfillingtheholyhungerofgolde.Butthemoretheyfilltheirhandeswithfinding,themoreincreaseththeircovetousdesire."--_DecadesintheNewWorlde._

IwantedtogofromSevilletoCadizbywater.Ilongedtosailbythe"SilverRoad"inthewakeofthesilverfleets.Thelittleartist,asbefittedheryouth,preferredaManilashawltothathistoricpilgrimage.SoIproposedtomakethistriflingtripalone.

DonJoséwasshocked.Merriestandmostindulgentofhosts,hewasinclinedatthispointtoplaythetyrant.IfImustseeCadiz,well

andgood.Hewouldtakemetothemorningexpressandputmeunderchargeoftheconductor.AtUtrera,anhourfartheron,hissonwouldcometothetrainandseethatallwaswell.At_PuertodeSantaMaria_,anotherhourdistant,Ishouldbemetbyatrustedfriendofthefamily,whowouldtransfermetoanothertrainandanotherconductor,andsospeedmeformythirdhourtoCadiz,whereIshouldbegreetedbyarelativeofminehostessandconveyedinsafetytohishome.

IappreciatedthekindnessinvolvedinthisveryAndalusianprogramme,butotherwiseitdidnotappealtome.ThatwasnotthewayColumbuswent,norCortés.AndmuchasIdelightedintheAlhambra,andtheMosqueofCordova,andtheAlcázarofSeville,Ididnotfeel

calledupontobowaNewEnglandbonnetbeneaththeMoorishyoke.

ThusDonJoséandIfoundourselvesquietlyengagedinanHispano-Americancontest.Heheartilydisapprovedofmygoing,evenbytrain."_Unaseñorasola!_ItisnotthecustominAndalusia."Hisplanofcampaignconsistedindeferringthearrangementsfromdaytoday."_Mañana!_"WheneverIattemptedtosetatimefordepartureheblandlyassented,andpresentlyprojectedsomeirresistiblyattractiveexcursionforthatverydate.Hishouseholdwereallwithhim.Hiswifehadnotbeenabletoprocuretheparticular_dulces_ indispensabletoatraveller'sluncheon.Evenmyfaithlesscomrade,drapedinherflower-gardenshawl,practisedthestepsofa _seguidilla_totherattleofthecastanetsandlaughedatmydefeats.

Atlast,growndesperate,IsuavelyannouncedattheSundaydinnertablethatIwasgoingtoCadizthatweek.Myhostsaid,"_Bueno!_"andmyhostess,"_Muybien!_"Buttherewasnosurrenderintheirtones.OnMonday,insteadofwritingtherequisitenotestotheserelaysofprotectorsalongtheroute,DonJosétookushimself,onamimicsteamboat,forajudiciousdistancedowntheGuadalquivír.TuesdayheputmeoffwithRomanruins,andWednesdaywithaprivategalleryofMurillos.ByThursdayIgrewinsistent,and,withshrugandsigh,hefinallyconsentedtomygoingbytrainonFriday.Istill



urgedtheboat,butheheapedupathousanddifficulties.Therewasn'tany;itwouldbeovercrowded;Ishouldbeseasick;theboatwouldarrive,whereveritmightarrive,toolateformytrain,whatevermytrainmightbe.Compromiseisalwaysbecoming,andIagreedtotakethenineo'clockexpressinthemorning.

AftertheextendedSpanishfarewells,fortokissonbothcheeksandbekissedonbothcheeksdownalongfeminineline,mother,daughters,andmaid-servants,isnohastyceremony,Isalliedforthathalf-pasteightwithDonJoséinattendance.Hecalledacab,butinSpainthecabbiesaremenandbrothers,andthisone,onlearningourdestination,declaredthatthetraindidnotstartuntilhalf-pastnineanditwasmuchbetterforaladytowait_encasa_thanatthedepot.Thisadditionalguardianshipgoadedmetoactiveremonstrance.Whynottakethecabforthehourandlookupaprocessiononourwaytothestation?TherearealwaysprocessionsinSeville.Thisappealedtoboththepleasure-lovingSpaniards,andwedroveintothepalmy _PlazadeSanFernando_,whereanarrayofmilitarybandswasserenadingsomecivicdignitary.

Themusicwasofthebest,andwefellinwiththelargeandvariedretinuethatescortedthemusicianstothepalaceofthearchbishop.Astheywererousinghimfromhisreverendslumberswith_LaMarchadeCadiz_,IcaughtatwinkleinDonJosé'seye.Didhehopetokeepme

chasingafterthosebandsalltheforenoon?Iawakenedthecabman,whomthemusichadlulledintotheeasyAndalusiandoze,andweclatteredofftothestation.Ofallsilentandforsakenplaces!IlookedsuspiciouslyatDonJosé,whoseswarthycountenanceworeanoverdoneexpressionofinnocentsurprise.Asolitaryofficialsaunteredout.

"Goodmorning,señor!Istheexpressgone?"askedthedriver.

"Goodmorning,señor!Thereisn'tanyexpressto-day,"wasthereply."TheexpressrunsonlyTuesdays,Thursdays,andSaturdays."

"Whatapity,"cooedDonJosé,contentedly."Youwillhavetowait

tillto-morrow."

"Yes,youcangoto-morrow,"indulgentlyaddedthedriver,andtheofficialchimedsweetlyin,"_Mañanaporlamañana!_"

"Butistherenoothertrainto-day?"Iasked.

Theofficialadmittedthattherewasoneatthreeo'clock.DonJoségavehimareproachfulglance.

"Butyoudonotwanttogobytrain,"saidmyingenioushost."Perhapsto-morrowyoucangobysteamboat."

"PerhapsIcangobysteamboatnow,"Ireturned,seizingmyopportunity."Whendoesthatboatstart?"

Nobodyknew.IaskedthecabmantodriveustotheGoldenTower,offwhichsea-goingvesselsusuallyanchor.DonJoséfellbackinhisseat,exhausted.

Thecabmandrovesofast,forSeville,thatweranintoadonkeyandmadeaparalyzedbeggarjump,butwereachedtheriverintimetoseeasmallsteamerjustintheactofswingingloosefromthepier.In



theexcitementofthemomentDonJoséforgoteverythingsavethenecessityofproperlypresentingmetothecaptain,andI,formypart,wasabsorbedintheecstasyofsailingfromthefootoftheGoldenToweralongtheSilverRoad.

ItwasnotuntilarodofwaterlaybetweenboatandwharfthatthecaptainshoutedtoDonJosé,whostruckanattitudeofutterconsternation,thatthiscraftwentonlytoBonanza,andnoconnectioncouldbemadefromtheretoCadizuntilthefollowingafternoon.AndI,mindfuloftheausteredignitythatbefittedthesecriticalcircumstances,couldnotevenlaugh.

Itwasadirtylittleboat,withamalodorouscargooffish,andforpassengerstwosoldiers,twopeasants,andacommercialtraveller.Butwhatofthat?IwassailingonatreasureshipoftheIndies,oneofthoseloftygalleonsofSpain,"rowedbythriceonehundredslavesandgaywithstreamers,banners,music,"thathaddeliveredattheGoldenTowerhertributefromthehoardoftheIncas,andwasproudlybearingbacktotheopenroadsofCadiz.

Wedroppeddownpastanoblelineofdeep-seamerchantmen,fromMarseilles,Hamburg,andfar-awayportsofNorwayandSweden.Wepassedfishingboatscastingtheirnets,andmetastatelySpanishbark,the_Calderon_.Ontheshoreswecaughtglimpsesoforangegrove

andoliveorchard,linesofosiersandwhitepoplars,andwepausedatthelittletownofCoria,famousforitsearthenjars,tolandoneofourpeasants,whileajollypriest,whoseplainblackgarbwasrelievedbyavermilionparasol,tosseddowncigarstohisfriendsamongthesailors.

Thenourgalleonpursuedhercourseintotheflatanddesolateregionsofthe_marismas_.ThesegreatsaltmarshesoftheGuadalquivír,scarcelymorethanaboginwinter,serveaspastureforherdsofhardysheepandforthosedrovesofmightybullsbredinAndalusiatodieinthearenasofallSpain.Forlongstretchesthegreenbankwouldbelinedwiththegloriouscreatures,standinglikeebonystatuesdeepamidthereeds,someentirelyblack,andmanyblackwith

slightmarkingsofwhite.TheGuadalquivírintersectsintriplechannelthisunpeopledwaste,concerningwhoseprofusionofplantlifeandanimallifeEnglishhunterstellstrangetales.Theyreportflocksofrosyflamingoes,threehundredorfivehundredinacolumn,"glintinginthesunshinelikeapinkcloud,"andmuddyisletsstuddedthickwithcoloniesofflamingonests.Mostwonderfulofall,thecamel,thatancientandseriousbeastofburden,afigurepertaininginallimaginationstothearid,sandydesert,keepsholidayinthesehugeswamps.Itseemsthat,in1829,aherdofcamelswasbroughtintotheprovinceofCadiz,fromtheCanaries,fortransportserviceinroad-buildingandthelike,andfortrialinagriculture.Butthepeculiardistasteofhorsesforthesehumpymonstersspoiledthescheme,andthecamels,increasedtosomeeightyinnumber,took

merrilytothemarshes,where,indefianceofallcaravantradition,theythriveinaquaticliberty.Thefascinationofthiswildernessreachedeventhedingysteamerdeck.Gulls,ducks,andallmannerofwildfowlflashedinthesunshine,whichoftenmadethewindingriver,astawnyasourJames,sparklelikeliquidgold.

Ifonlyithadbeengoldindeed,andhadkeptthetraceriesoftheRomankeelsthathavetraversedit,theVandalswordswhoseredithaswashedaway,theMoorishfacesithasmirrored,theSpanish--



"_Ustedcome?_"

ItmighthavebeenCorteswhowasofferingthatbowlof_puchero_,butno!Corteswouldhavemixeditinhisplumyhelmetandstirreditwiththatthin,keenswordonemayseeintheMadrid_Armería_.Thiswasabarefootedcabinboy,inbluelinenblouseandpatchedbluetrousers,withascarletclothcaptiedoverhisheadbymeansofanorange-coloredhandkerchief.Thedancingeyesthatlithisshybrownfacehadseabluesinthem.Hewasawinsomelittlefellowenough,butIdidnotinclinetohiscookery.WhileIwaswatchingriver,shores,andherdsandchattingwiththe_simpático_sailor,who,takinghiscuefrommylook,expressedthedeepestabhorrenceofthebull-fights,which,Imakenodoubt,hewouldsellhisdinner,jacket,bed,evenhisguitar,tosee,Ihadtakensecretnoteofthecuisine.Thischild,whocouldnothavecountedhistwelfthbirthday,kindledthefireinaflimsytinpail,linedwithbrokenbricks.Hecrackedoverhiskneeafewpiecesofdriftwood,mixedthefragmentswithbitsofcoalwhichheshookoutofasheepskinbottle,dousedoiloverthewhole,andcheerfullyappliedthematch,whilethecommercialtravellerhastilydrewupabucketofwatertohaveonhandforemergencies.Thentheboy,withexcellentintentionsinthewayofneatness,whiskedhisblackenedhandsacrosstheroughendofaropeandplungedthemintothepotof_garbanzos_,towhichheaddedbeans,cabbage,remnantsoffriedfish,andothersundriesathisyoung

discretion.Andwhilethemesswassimmering,hesquatteddownonthedeck,withhisgrimylittlefeetinhisfists,rockinghimselfbackandforthtohisownwildMalagasongs,andoccasionallydisengagingonehandortheothertoplungeitintothepotafteratastymorsel.

"Willyoueat?"herepeatedmanfully,reddeningunderthescrutinyofstrangereyes.

"Manythanks!Mayitprofityourself!"

Iopenedmyluncheon,andagainweexchangedthesefixedphrasesofSpanishetiquette,althoughaftertherefusalsenjoinedbycodeofcourtesy,theboywasfinallyinducedtorelievemeofmymore

indigestiblegoodies.

"DidyoueverhearofColumbus?"Iasked,aswemunchedchestnutcakestogether,leaningontherail.

"No,señora,"hereplied,withanotherblush,"Ihaveheardofnothing.Iknowlittle.Iamofverysmallaccount.Icookandsing.Iamgoodfornothingmore."

AndisittothisthosearrogantSpanishboasts,whichrangliketrumpetsupanddowntheGuadalquivír,havecomeatlast!

Wewereintheheartofaperfectsapphireday.Theriver,often

turbulentandunruly,wasonthisAprilafternoon,thesailorssaid, _buenmuchacho_,agoodboy.Theboatappearedtonavigateherself.Thecaptainnoddedonhisloftyperch,andtheengineerwascurledupinhisowntinyhatchway,tryingtoreadanewspaper,whichthefreshbreezeblewintohornsandballoons.Theroughcabinbunkswerefullofsleepingforms,andtheleatherwine-bottles,flungdowncarelesslyinthestern,hadcuddledeachtoeachincozyshapes,andseemedtobesleeping,too.Thetwosoldiers,whohadbeengamblingwithcoppersoverinnumerablegamesofdominos,werelisteninggrimlytotheoratoryofthecommercialtraveller.



"Nofightingforme!"thisherowasdeclaiming."Instrenuoustimesliketheseamanoughttocherishhislifeforthesakeofhiscountry.Spainneedshersonsrighthereathome.Itissweet,asthepoetsays,todieforthe_patria_,buttoliveforthe_patria_is,inmyopinion,justasglorious."

"Andmorecomfortable,"gruntedoneofthesoldiers,whiletheothergaveahitchtothoseredinfantrytrouserswhichlookasiftheyhadbeenwadinginblood,andwalkedforwardtoviewfromthebowsthelittlewhiteportofBonanza.

Astheboatwentnofarther,Ihadtostainmysilverroutebyaprosaicparenthesisofland.ItwassomecomforttorememberthatMagellanwaitedhereforthatexpeditionfromSevillewhichwasthefirsttosailaroundtheglobe.IthinkItravelledthethreemilesfromBonanza,GoodWeather,toSanLúcardeBarramedainMagellan'sowncarriage.Itwascertainlyoldenough.AsIsatonatipsychairinthemiddleofarudewagonframemountedontwoshriekingwoodenwheels,andhoodedwithbrokenarchesofbamboo,fromwhichflappedshredsofrussetoilcloth,IenteredintopoignantsympathywithMagellan'supsanddownsofhopeandfear.Thejoltingwassuchatorturethat,todivertmyattention,Iquestionedthedriverastotheusesofthisandthatapplianceinhisricketyark.

"Andwhatarethoseropesfor,thereinthecorner?"wasmyfinalquery.

"ThosearetotiethecoffinsdownwhenIhaveafareforthecemetery,"hereplied,crackinghiswhipovertheincrediblyleanmulethatwassulkilyjerkingusalong.

"Pleaseletmegetoutandwalk,"Ientreated."Youmaykeepthevaliseandshowmethewaytotheinn,andIcangoquiteasfastasthatmule."

"Now,don't!"hebegged,withevenintenserpathos."Strangersalways

wanttowalkbeforetheygettotheinn,andthenthepeoplelaughatme.Iknowmycarriageisn'tveryhandsome,butit'stheonlyoneinBonanza.Justdomethefavortokeepyourseatalittlelonger."

Ihadbeenlurchedoutofitonlyaminutebefore,butIcouldnotrefusetosacrificemerebodilyeasetotheprideofSpanishspirit.

NotwithstandingDonJosé'sdarkpredictions,thiswastheonlytrialofthetrip.Torealizetothefullthehonesty,kindliness,anddignityoftheeverydaySpaniard,oneneedstoturnofffromthesight-seer'sroute.Onthebeatentouristtrackareexorbitanthotels,greedyguides,cheatingmerchants,troopsofbeggars--everywhere"theitchingpalm."ButhereinSanLúcar,forinstance,whereIhadto

spendtwenty-fourhoursatagenuineSpanish_fonda_,theproprietortooknoadvantageofthefactsthatIwasaforeigner,awoman,andpracticallyaprisonerintheplaceuntiltheSaturdayafternoontrainwentout,butgavemeexcellentaccommodations,mostrespectfulandconsideratetreatment,andthelowesthotelbillthatIhadseeninSpain.

SanLúcarhas,inearlySpanishliterature,averyillnameforroguery,but,sofarasmybriefexperiencewent,Bostoncouldnothavebeensaferandwouldnothavebeensogenial.Istrayed,for



instance,intoamodestlittleshoptobuyacakeofsoap,whichitsownerdeclinedtosell,insistingthatIoughttohaveachoicervarietythanhis,andsendinghisson,aladofsixteen,topointmeoutmorefashionablecounters.Thisyouthshowedmethesightsofthepleasantseashoretown,withitstiersofcloselygratedwindowsstandingoutfromthewhitefrontsofthehouses,anditssturdypackhorsesandorange-ladendonkeysstreamingalongtheroughstonestreets,andwhen,attheinndoor,Ihesitatinglyofferedhimapieceofsilver,doffedhiscapwithsmilingease,andsaidhedidnottakepayforapleasure.

Onceofftheregularlinesoftravel,however,speedisoutofthequestion.ImighthavegonefromSevilletoCadizinthreehours;thankstohistoricenthusiasms,ittookmenearerthreedays.AfterescapingfromSanLúcar,IhadtopassfourhoursinJerez,anotherwhitewashed,palm-plantedtown,whosefamoussherryhasmadeitthethirdcityinSpainforwealth.ThethingtodoatJerezistovisitthegreat_bodegas_andtastetherichwhiteliquorstreasuredinthosemonstercasks,whichbearallmannerofnames,fromChristandHistwelvedisciplestoNapoleontheGreat;butmindful,inthelightofDonJosé'sadmonitions,thattheweakfeminineestateis"aswateruntowine,"Icontentedmyselfwithseeingthestrangestoragebasinofthemountainaqueduct--animmense,immaculatecellar,whereendlessvistasoflowstonearchesstretchawayinthesilentduskabovethe

glimmerofaghostlylake.ThetrainforCadizmustneedsbetwohourslatethisparticularevening,butmycabmandrovemetoapprovedshopsforthepurchaseofbreadandfruit,andthen,ofhisownmotion,drewupourmodestequipageinashadynookoppositethevillaoftheEnglishconsul,thatImightenjoymyArcadianrepastwithasecuremind.Jehuaccepted,afterdueprotestations,ashareoftheviands,andreciprocatedtheattentionbybuyingmeaglassofwaterattheneareststand,muchamusedatmycontinuedpreferenceforJerezwateroverJerezwine.

OneoftheJerezwinemerchants,Germanbybirth,sharedtherailway

carriagewithmeforawhile,andafterthesocialwontofContinentaltravelfelltodiscussingthewar."TheSpaniardsdeservedtobebeaten,"hedeclared,"buttheYankeesdidn'tdeservetobeat.Theywereconceitedenoughbefore,heavenknows,andnowtheyexpectallEuropetoblacktheirshoddyshoes.Yourowncountrywasabittoblameinblockingeveryefforttokeepthemintheirplace."

IfeltittimetoexplainthatIwasnotEnglish,butAmerican.Muchdisconcerted,hedidhisbesttomakeamends.

"Iwouldn'thavesaidthatfortheworldifIhadknownyouwereanAmerican--butit'severysyllabletrue."

Hethoughtoverthisremarkinsilenceforamoment,hisTeutonicspiritsorelystrainedbetweenkindlinessandhonesty,andtriedagain.

"IwouldliketosaysomethinggoodabouttheUnitedStates,Iwouldindeed,--iftherewasanythingtosay."

Itseemedtooccurtohim,afteralittle,thateventhisapologyleftsomethingtobedesired,andhebrightenedup.



"Wouldn'tyoulikesomeroses?Theysellthemhereatthisstation.Therecomesaboynowwithanice,bigbunch.One_peseta_!Ithinkthat'stoodear,don'tyou?"

Ihastenedtoassent.

"Theladysaysthat'stoodear.Seventy-five_centimos_?No.Theladycan'tpaythat.Sixty_centimos_?No.Theladycan'taffordsixty _centimos_.Fifty_centimos_?No.Theladysaysfifty_centimos_istoomuch.Shewilltakethematforty_centimos_.Here'sahalf _peseta_.Andyoumustgivemebackafatdog."

Theboyheldbackthepennyandtriedtosubstituteacent.

"Oh,sir,please,sir,forty-five_centimos_!Therearetwodozenroseshere,andallfreshasthedawn.Givemethepuppy-dogover."

ButtheGerman,whoknewhowtoputevenasharperedgeontheinveterateSpanishbargaining,securedforthevalueofeightcents,insteadoftwenty,hisgreatbouquetofreallybeautifulroses,andpresenteditwithasmuchofabowasthecarriagelimitspermitted.

"Imeanttopayallthetime,youknow;butonecanalwaysmakeabettertrade,inSpain,ifitisdoneinthenameofalady."Andhe

added,withthatsuddentactwhichinnategoodnessanddelicacygivetothemostblunderingofusmortals,"Ifyoudon'tliketotakethemfromastrangerforyourself,youwilltakethemasmypeace-offeringtoyourcountry."

Iwasremindedagainofmynativelandbyanotherfellow-traveller--aSpaniardoftheSpaniards,thistime,oneoftheConservativeandCatholicleaders,greetedatthevariousstationsbypriestsandmonksandfriars,whosehandshesolemnlykissed.Thisdistinguishedpersonagewasabsorbedinavoluminoustype-writtenmanuscript,fromwhichheoccasionallyreadaloudtothebandofpoliticalconfidantswhoaccompaniedhim.ItwasanarraignmentoftheLiberalParty,and,bywayofexposingtheerrorsoftheSagastagovernment,includeda

mercilessrésuméoftheSpanishnavalandmilitarydisasters,withelaboratecomparisonsoftheAmericanandSpanishequipments.HewasthenonhiswaytojoininaconsolingpilgrimagetoacertainimageofChrist,whichhadbeencudgelledbyagrief-maddenedpriestwhosedyingmothertheimagehadfailedtoheal.

Thesesurroundingsmoreorlessjostledmysixteenth-centurydream,butIheldtoitsostubbornlythat,whenpyramidsofsaltbegantoglimmerlikeghostsalongtheway,andasweepingcurveoflightswarnedmeofourapproachtoCadiz,Imadeapointofseeingaslittleaspossible.Itwasmidnight,butSpanishhoursareluckilysolatethatDonJosé'sfriendswerestillattheheightofeveningsociabilityandregaledmewithalternateshowersofsweetmeatsand

questions.Finally,aftermanyexclamationsofhorrorattheaudacityofthetrip,allthefemininehospitalityofthehouseholdlightedmetoachamberwhosewallswerehungwithpicturesofmartyrsandagonizingsaints.AmongtheseIcountedfivecoloredrepresentationsofChristopeninghisbreasttodisplaythebleedingheart.

ThenextmorningIpromptlytookboatto_PuertodeSantaMaria_,embarkedonthereturnsteamer,andsoatlastfoundmyselfoncemoreontheSilverRoad,enteringCadizharborfromthesea.



Tobesure,the_Montserrat_wasridingproudlyinmyview,althoughthewarshipstowhichshehadbeenusedtocurtsyintheopenroadsofCadizwouldnevercutthoseshiningwavesagain.Thewaterswereasturquoiseblueasiftheyhadjustcomefromthebrushofanoldmaster,andthetoweredcityrosebeforeuslikeacrystalcastleintheair.Itslimitedspace,builtasitiswithingreatseawallsonanoutlyingrock,whichonlyaropeofsandmoorstothemainland,hasnecessitatednarrowstreetsandhighhouses,whose_miradores_,lookoutsthateverywherecrowntheterracedroofs,givethisbattlementedaspecttothetown.Oneofthemostancientandtragiccitiesknowntotime,claimingHerculesforitsfounder,inturnPhoenician,Carthaginian,Roman,Gothic,Moorish,Spanish,ityetlooksfreshasawater-lily.Icouldhavespentanotherthreedaysingazing.AndthissparklingvisionwasSpain's_CopadePlata_,theSilverCupwhichhasbrimmedwiththegoldandpearlsofAmerica,withbloodandflameandglory.Itsricheshavetakentothemselveswings,butitshigh,freespiritandfrankgayetyabide.StilltheAndalusianssing:--

"_Viva_Cadiz,SilverCadiz,Whosewallsdefythesea,Cadizoftheprettygirls,Ofcourtesyandglee!

"GoodlucktomerryCadiz,Aswhiteasoceanspray,AndherfiveandtwentycannonThatpointGibraltarway!"

ButIamboundtoaddthatthecannondonotlookdangerous.

XII

MURILLO'SCHERUBS

"Angelso'erthepalmtreesflying,Touchtheirwavingfrondstorest.Bidthemgivenowindreplying.JesussleepsonMary'sbreast.Blessédangels,holdthepeepingBranchesstillasaltar-place,FortheHolyChildissleepingClosebeneathHisMother'sface."--LOPEDEVEGA.

Spanishloveforchildhood,andtheprecocityandwinsomenessof

Spanishchildren,impressedmefrommyfirsthourinthePeninsula."Thereisnoroadsolevelastobewithoutroughplaces,"andtheinitialdaysofmyMadridresidence,aftermyartistcomradehadgonebacktoParisandthespringsalons,mighthavebeenatriflelonelysaveforbabysociety.IwaslivinginadelightfulSpanishhousehold,buttheveryexcessofcourtesyremindedmecontinuallythatIwasaYankeeandaheretic.Astimepassed,friendshipripened,anditisto-daynoemptyformofwordswhenIamassuredthatIhave"myhouseinMadrid."ButattheoutsetIfeltmyselfnotonlyanAmericanalien,butanAndalusianexile.The"onlyCourt"issuchaprosaic



contrasttoSevillethatmyimpulsewastobetakemyselfwithbookstothegreatparkoftheBuenRetiro,themagnificentgiftofOlivarestohisroyalmaster,andlettheMadridworld,atleasttheadultportionofit,goby.ForwhilethelargerMadrileñoswerebusywiththeirownplaysofpolitics,bull-fights,andflirtation,thelittleoneshadhappyafternoonsinthathistoricparkofmanyatragedy,whereconvents,palaces,andfortificationshaveallmadewayforthechildren'srompingground.Restingonarusticseatintheleafyshade,withtherich,thrillingnotesofthenightingaleansweringthebellcallofthecuckoofromthedeepergrovesbeyond,IcouldwatchthesebuddingSpaniardstoheart'scontent.

Itwaswelltoobservethemfromadistance,however,fortheiryoungvoiceswereoftheshrillest.Amongtheboys,anenergeticfewweredevelopingmusclebytagandleap-frog;morewereflyingkites,crackingwhips,twirlingslings,andbrandishingtheterrorsofpewterswords;whileateveryturn,besidesomeflashingfountainorbeneathsomespreadingoak,Iwouldcomeuponagroupofurchinsplaying_altoro_withthecheap,gaudycapesofredandyellowmanufacturedforthechildren'ssport.Thegirlswereskippingrope,rollinghoop,teachingoneanotherthestepsofendlessdances,andwhisperingmomentoussecretsinstatue-guardedgrottos,orthicketsoffloweringshrubs,orwhatsoeversafe,mysteriousnooktheirflutteringsearchcouldfind.

Herewasaschooloutforitsdailyairing,aprettyprocessionofrainbow-cladlittledamsels,marshalledbytheblack-veiledfiguresofgracefulnuns,andpacingwithalldecorumdownacrowdedavenue;butthemomentthetroopturnedintosomesequesteredby-path,howitwouldbreakintoashimmeringconfusionofbutterflies,dartinghitherandthitherinthosejewel-greenlightsandsea-greenshadows,thenunscastingtheirdignitytothewindsandscamperingwiththeswiftest!WanderingafterIwouldcome,perhaps,uponanopenspacewherethesmallerboysweregathered,delicatelittleladsridinghorse-headedsticks,diggingwithmimicspades,andtossingbig,soft,redandyellowballs,whilemothersandnursessataboutincircleonthestonebenches,callingoutsharp-tonedcautionstotheir

respectivecharges.

Andeverywhereintheparkweretoddlingbabies,claspingdolls,tuggingatgayballoons,draggingwoodendonkeysonwheels,andtumblingoverlivepuppies.Theywerepale,engaging,persistentlittlecreatures,withatrueSpanishinabilitytolearnfromexperience.Isawonearistocraticcherub,whiteassnowfromfeatheredcaptoribbonedshoes,taketensuccessiveslappingsbecausehemuddiedhishands.Theangrynursewouldmakeasnatchforthenaughtyfingers,roughlybeatoffthedirt,andcufftheculpritsoundly.Hisproudlittlemouthwouldtremble;hewouldwinkhardandfast,buttherewasnotateartobeseen,notacrytobeheard,andnosoonerhadherpeasantclutchreleasedhimthanbackwentthebaby

hands,grubbingdeepintothemire.Agorgeouscivilguardfinallydistractedherattention,andthelastviewIhadofthechildshowedhimblissfullysquattedintheverymiddleofapuddle,splashingwitharmsandlegs.

WhiteisalmosttheuniversalwearoftheprattlingageintheBuenRetiro,althoughnowandthensomelilyfairywouldflitbywithsaffronsashandharmonioussaffronstockings,orcostumesimilarlytouchedbypinkorblue.TheScotchplaids,too,wereinfavorassashes,andatrareintervalsIencounteredatotsensiblyattiredin



stoutplaidfrock.Butthewhiteofthischildishmultitudewasthicklyfleckedwithmourningsuits,completetobitsofblackglovesandeventojetstudsinthecollars.AmongthesadsightsoftheRetirowasanepilepticboy,ledandhalfsupportedbetweentwosweet-faced,youthfulladies,bothinwidow'scrêpe,whoscreenedhimwithcaressesashisfittookhimandhefoamedandscreamedinpiteoushelplessness.Thispathetictrio,everseekingseclusion,waseverfollowedbyaretinueofidlers,who,foralltheirintrusivestaring,weresilentandsympathetic.

Thenursemaidsformednottheleastattractivefeatureofthekaleidoscopicpicture.Mostworewhitecaps,fastenedwithgildedpinsorknotsofroseorrusset;butthenursescountedthebest,fromthemountainprovinceofSantander,weredistinguishedbybright-coloredhandkerchiefstwistedaboutthehead.Here,asinthe_Élysées_,baby-wagonsareseldomseen.Thenursescarryinarmstheblack-eyedinfants,whobiteawayattheircoralnecklacesquitelikelittleYankees.

ButSpanishtraitssoondeclarethemselves.Inthecentreoftheparkisanartificialpond,whereladsintheirfirstteens,toooldforplay,leanlanguidlyovertheironrailings,and,whiletheythrowcrumbstotheflockofforlorn-lookingducksorwatchthedipoftheredoar-bladesthatimpelthepleasureboats,bragoftheiramorous

adventuresandexchangethescandalofthe_Prado_.Sometimestheirlovechatisofsweetertenor,formanyoftheseschoolboyshavealreadyspokentheirbetrothalvows,whichtheChurchwillnotletthemlightlybreak.Spaniardsoftenmarryundertwenty-one,andevenarecentweddinginMadrid,whereneitherbridenorbridegroomhadreachedthefifteenthyear,washardlythoughtamiss,inviewofthefactthattherewasparentalmoneytomaintainthem.

AndwhyhadthestatelycityofValladolidbeenunderareignofterrorforhalftheweekjustpast,withshuttersup,doorsbarred,andwomenandchildrenkeptathomeforsafety,whilebandsofyoungmenswayedinbloodystrugglethroughherfamoussquaresandstreets,butbecauseacadetandastudentmustneedslosehearttothesame

maid?Cupid,notSantiago,isthepatronsaintofSpain.AndCupid,forallhismischief,hassomeverywinningways.OurboyishsentimentalistsoftheBuenRetiro,forinstance,easilyfallintosong,andthenativemelodies,alwayswithsomethingwildandOrientalintheirbeat,ringacrossthelittlelakeintothewoodsbeyondtillthebirdstakeupthechallengeandeverytreegrowsvocal.

Oneafternoon,onmywaytothepark,Iboughtfromaroadsidevenderahandfulofsmall,gaudilyboundchildren'sbooks,andhadnosoonerfoundwhatIfondlysupposedwasasequesteredseatthanatumultoflittlefolkssurroundedme,coaxingtohearthestories.Thesetales,sotakenatrandom,maythrowalittlelightontheliteratureofSpanishnurseries.TherewasthelifeoftheMadonna,whichwepassed

over,asthechildrensaidtheyhadreaditinschoolandknewit,everyword,already.Soweturnedtotheastonishingcareerofthegreatsoldier,Kill-Bullet,whocouldeasilystopacannon-ballagainsthispalm,andtoanaccountofthatfar-offlandwhereitrainedgoldinsuchprofusionthatnobodywouldwork,untilfinallyallthepeople,wearyofawealthwhichinducednotailortostitchandnoshoemakertocobble,nobakertobakeandnodairy-maidtochurn,rosebycommonconsentandshovelledthegoldintotheriver.Wereadofhot-temperedlittleAmbrose,wholeftthegateofhisgardenopen,sothatahencackledinandbegantoscratchundera



rosebush,whereupontheangryboychasedherfuriouslyalloverthegarden-bedsuntilhissummer'sworkwastrampledintoruin,andhispapacameandexplainedtohimhowdisastrousathingiswrath.Therewasacompanionmoraltaleforlittlegirls,tellinghowInezusedtomakefacesuntilhermammatoldherthatshewouldgrowupwithatwistedmouthandnobodywouldmarryher,whereatdidlittleInezpromptlyreformhermanners.Onefavoritevolume,withacoverwhichdisplayedawild-whiskeredoldogreinafieryskullcapgloatingoveraplatterfulofverypinkbaby,toldhowgoodlittleVioletsavedherbadsisters,RoseandDaisy,fromhisdreadfulgullet,byaidofanuglymonkey,whomherpromisedkisstransformedintoafairyprince.Iwasgladtofind,inthatcountrywheresolittleisdonetotrainchildrenintheloveofanimals,theancienttaleofthefourmusicians,thedonkey,thedog,thecat,andthecock,whoescapedintheiroldagefromthedeaththatthreatenedthematthehandsofungratefulmastersand,byafreeexerciseoftheirmusicaltalents,capturedthehouseofarobber-band,puttingitsinmatestoconfusionandflight.Manyofthestories,indeed,wouldhavebeenrecognizedbyyoungAmericans,buttheproportionofsaint-lorewaslargerthanthatoffairy-lore,and,nowandthen,somefamiliarpropertyhadsufferedaSpanishchange,astheinvisiblecapwhichhadbecomeaninvisiblecapeofthesortusedforplayingbull-fight.

[Illustration:THEPAGEANTOFGETHSEMANE]

Thenurseryrhymes,too,sofarasIchanceduponthem,wereoftheuniversaltypewithSpanishvariations.ACastilianmotherplaysPeek-a-boowithherbabyquiteasanEnglishmotherdoes,exceptthatthesyllablesare_Cú?Trás!_Thefather'sfoottrotsthechildtoaCatholicmarket.

"Trot,littledonkey!Donkey,trot!Wemustbuyhoneytopleasethepet.IfSanFranciscohasitnot,We'llgotoSanBenet."

Baby'stoesarecountedastheeternalfivelittlepigs,andalso

thus,withapreliminaryticklingoftherosysole:--

"Herepassedalittledove.Thisonecaughtit.Thisonekilledit.Thisoneputitontoroast.Thisonetookitoffagain.Andthisteeny-teeny-teenyscampateitallup!"

Spanishpatty-cakesarefollowedbyaSpanishgrace.

"Patty-cakes,oh!Patty-cakes,ah!Thesweetestcakesarefordearmama.Patty-cakes,oh!Patty-cakes,ah!Thehardestpatsareforpoorpapa,

"Bread,OGod!Bread,dearGod,Forthislittlechildto-day!Becausehe'ssuchababyHecannotpayhisway."

TheSpanishnurseryseemsricherinrhymesthanours.NursebendsBaby'slefthandintoarose-leafpurse,forexample,andgivesitlittletapswithonefingerafteranotherofBaby'srighthand,singing:--



"ApennyforBaby'spurseFrompapa,mama,andnurse.Apenny,apennytopay!Letnothiefstealitaway!"

Andthenthetinyfistisdoubledtight.

Whenthechild,again,isfirstdressedinshortclothes,heisproppedupinacornerandcoaxedtotakehisfirststepwiththerhyme:--

"Onelittlestep,Baby-boymine!Come,LittleMan,stepup!AndthoushalthaveatasteofwineFromGodfather'ssilvercup."

Thisrhymingfashionthelittleonestakewiththemoutofbabyhoodintotheirlaterchildhood.Theurchinadmonisheshiswhistle:--

"Whistle,whistle,Margarita,Andyou'llgetacrustofbread,ButifyoudonotwhistleI'llcutoffyourlittlehead."

Thelittlegirllearnsthescalesinprocessofrockingherdolltosleep:--

Don'tpin-prickmypoorolddolly,_Do_ Respectmydomesticmatters._Re_ Methinksshegrowsmelancholy,_Mi_ Fastashersawdustscatters._Fa_ Soleroseofyourmama'sposy,_Sol_ Laughatyourmama,so!_La_ Sealupyoureyesallcozy._Si_ _LaSolFaMiReDo._

WithSpanishchildren,aswithours,ChristmasEve,or_NocheBuena_,

isaseasonofgleefulexcitement.TheydonothangupstockingsforSantaClaus,buttheyputouttheirshoesonthebalconyfortheKingsoftheEast,ridinghighoncamel-back,tofillwithsweetsandplaythings.Consideratechildren,too,putoutahandfulofstrawforthetiredbeastswhohavejourneyedsofarovertheMilkyWay.Onsomebalconiesthemorningsunbeholdsrocking-horsesandrocking-donkeys,make-believetheatresandbull-rings,withtoyimagesofsoldiers,bullsandHolyFamilies;butifthechildhasbeennaughtyanddispleasedtheMagi,hispoorlittleshoeswillstandemptyandashamed.

Thedramaticinstinct,sostronginSpaniards,isstrikinglymanifestedinthechildren'sgames.Theselittlepeoplearedevotedto

thetheatre,too,andmaybeseeninforceatthematinéesintheApolo,Lara,andZarzuela.AfternoonperformancesaregivenonlyonSundaysandtheotherCatholic_fiestas_,whichlast,numerousenough,arewellwithinreachofthePuritanconscience.Atthesematinéesmorethanhalftheseatsinthehouseareoccupiedbyjuvenileticket-holders,fromrowsofvociferousurchinsinthegalleries,toround-eyedbabiescooingovertheirnurses'shoulders.Iftheplayisanextravaganza,aboundinginmagicandmisadventure,theraptureofthechildishaudienceisatitsheight.



Thecloseattentionwithwhichmerethree-year-oldsfollowtheactionisastonishing."_Bonito!_"lispingvoicescryaftereachfantasticballet,andweewhitehandstwinkleupanddownintimewiththemerrymusic.Whentheclowndivestshimself,onebyone,ofascoreofwaistcoats,orsuccessivelypullsthirtyorfortysmilingdairy-maidsoutofachurn,littlearithmeticiansalloverthehousecalloutthecountanddisputehisnumberswithhim.Whenthedragonspitshisshowerofsparks,whenchairssidleawayfrombeneaththeunfortunateswhowouldsitdownorsuddenlyrisewiththemtowardtheceiling,whensignboardswhirl,anddinnersfriskupchimney,cigarspuffoutintotallhats,andumbrellasfireoffbullets,thehubbubofwonderanddelightdrownsthevoicesoftheactors.

Thehouseisneverstillforonesingleinstant.Babiescrywearily,nursesmurmursoothingly,mystifiedinnocentspipeoutquestions,papasrebukeandexplain,exasperatedoldbachelorshissforsilence,saucyboyshissbackforfun--alltogethertheMadridmatinéeaffordsafarbetteropportunitytostudychildlifethantohearthecomedyupontheboards.

TheboykingofSpainis,ofcourse,afascinatingfiguretohischildsubjects.WeweretoldatSanSebastian,wheretheQueenRegenthasasummerpalace,thatonthosered-letterdayswhenthekingtakesaseadip,childrencomerunningfromfarandneartoseehimstepintothe

surf,withtwostalwartsoldiersgrippingtheroyallittlefists.AndnosoonerhastheCourtreturnedtothesumptuous,anxiouspalaceofMadrid,thantheboybathersofSanSebastiandelightthemselvesinplayingking,mincingdownthebeachunderthepompousmilitaryescortthattheytaketurnsinfurnishingoneanother.

InMadrid,too,thesightseeingcrowdsthatgatherbeforetheroyalpalaceoratthedoorsofthe_IglesiadelBuenSuceso_,wheretheQueenRegent,withher"augustchildren,"sometimesattendsthe _Salve_onSaturdayafternoons,arethicklypepperedwithlittlefolks,eagerto"seetheking."Theyareoftendisappointed,forthepreciouslifeisjealouslyguarded,especiallywhiletheCarlistcloudstillbroodsabovethethrone.DuringmystayinMadrid,amanwitha

revolverunderhiscoatwasarrestedonsuspicioninthevestibuleofthetheatreknownas_LaComédia_,wherethequeenwaspassingtheevening.ScepticalMadridshruggeditsshouldersandsaid:"Stuffandnonsense!WhentheMinisterswantthequeentosignapaperthatisn'ttoherliking,theymakeagreatshowofdevotionandpouncedownonsomepoordevilasananarchist,tofrightenherintobeingmeekandgrateful."And,infact,theprisonerwasalmostimmediatelyreleasedforlackofanyincriminatingevidence.Forweeksafter,nevertheless,theroyalmovementsweremoredifficulttoforecast,andonthedailydrivesthekingletwasoftenmissingfromthefamilygroup.

But,undiscouraged,everyafternoonthechildrenwouldfringethepalacesideofthe_PlazadeOriente_,hopingtoseetheroyal

carriagegoorcomewiththeiryoungsovereign,whoseportrait,awistful,boyishfaceaboveabroadlacecollar,isprintedinoneoftheirschoolreadingbooksovertheinscription,"TotheHeadoftheStatehonorandobediencearedue."Expectantyoungsters,intheall-envelopingblackpinaforesthatremindtheeyeofParis,withbooksatchelsmadeofgaycarpetingovertheshoulder,wouldshakeouttheirsmudgyhandkerchiefs,oftenstampedwiththelikenessesoffamous_toreros_,andhelpthemselvestooneanother'shatsinreadinesstosalute;buttheelegantlandau,precededbyanescortoftwohorsemen,dashesbysoswiftlythattheirlongwaitingwouldbe



rewardedonlybythebriefestglimpseofbowingbonnetsandofasmallglovedhandtouchingthemilitarycapthatshadesachildishface.

ItisapaleandsoberlittlefaceasIhaveseenit,butMadrileñosresentthisimpressionandinsistthathisyouthfulMajestyis"sturdyenough,"andasmerryasneedbe.Theysaythatthebuoyancywhichheinheritsfromhisfatheriscrossedbystrangefitsofbrooding,duetohismother'sblood,butthatheis,inthemain,amerry-heartedchild.Althoughhehasmastersforhisstudiesnow,hisaffectionstillclingstohisAustriangoverness,whom,nonetheless,hedearlylovestotease.WhensheishonoredbyaninvitationtodrivewiththeQueenRegent,forexample,Alphonsitohastenstohideherhatandthenjoinsmostsolicitouslyinherflutteredsearch,untilhersuspiciondartsuponhim,andhisprankbreaksdowninpealsoflaughter.Madridwasespeciallysensitiveabouthimlastyear,forhe,AlfonsoXIII,godsonofPopeLeoXIII,wasthirteenyearsofage--aniterationoftheunluckyomenthatreallyoughttobesatisfiedwiththelossoftheSpanishcolonies.Hismother,inhonorofhisbirthday,Mayseventeenth,distributedfivethousanddollarsamongorphanasylumsandothercharities,andheldagrandreceptionintheHalloftheAmbassadors,wheretheslightladincadetuniform,enthronedbesidetheQueenRegentbetweenthetwogreatlionsofgildedbronze,receivedthecongratulationsofalongprocessionofbowingministers,

admirals,captaingenerals,prelates,andthosehaughtygrandeesofSpainwhoseancientprivilegeitistoweartheirhatsintheroyalpresence;buttheshrinkageofhisrealmsincehislastbirthdaymusthavebeenuppermostinthemindofeventheyounglordofthefestival._Pobrecito!_onewonderswhatthoughtsgoonbehindthoseseriousbrowsofhis,when,forinstance,helooksdownfromhispalacewindowsatthedailyceremonyofguard-mountinginthecourtyard.Itissuchagallantsight;themartialmusicissostirring;thecavalryinblueandsilversittheirwhitesteedssoproudly,withthesunglisteningontheirdrawnswordsandthewindtossingtheirlong,white,horsehairplumes,thatallthesetalesofdefeatandlossmustpuzzlethesoreboyheartandcastconfusingshadowsdownthepathbeforehim.

LittleastheSpaniardslovetheQueenRegent,towhomtheycannotpardonhertwocardinaloffencesofbeinga"foreigner"andofdislikingthebull-fight,theyhaveacertainaffectionforAlfonsoXIII,"theonlychildbornakingsinceChrist."Indeed,Spainseemstohavebeenalwayssympathetictowardchildhoodinpalaces.Enterthiswonderful_Armería_ofMadrid,wherethoseplumedandarmoredkings,onrichlycaparisonedchargers,whomwehavecometoknowinthepaintingsofthe_MuseodelPrado_,seemtohaveleaptfromthecanvasestogreetushereinstillmorelifelikeguise,albeitnotovergraciously,withhorsereinedbackandmightylanceatpoise.Anyfinemorningtheymayallcomeclatteringoutintothe_PlazadeArmas_--andwherewilltheUnitedStatesbethen?Herestandsa

majesticrowofthem--PhilipII,inaresplendentsuitofgold-inlaidplate-armor;Maximilian,whosevisorgiveshimthefiercehookedbeakofaneagle;SebastianofPortugal,withnymphsembossedincunningworkonhisrichbreastplate;andCharlesV,threetimesover,invarietiesofimperialmagnificence.

[Illustration:"JESUSOFTHEPASSION"]

Butoppositethesesternwarriorsisahollowsquareofboyprinces,andofnoble_niños_whosevisorshidetheiridentitiesinlong



La-Chica,attheserviceofGodandyourself."Theylearntheseamenitiesofspeechwiththeirfirstlispings.IwasmuchtakenabackonedayinSevillebyachildofeighteenmonths.Notintheleastexpectingthisinfant,whoserosyfacewasbashfullysnuggledintohisyoungaunt'sneck,tounderstand,Isaidtoher,"Whatafinelittlefellow!"WhereuponMasterRoly-polysuddenlysatupstraightonherarm,duckedhisheadinmydirection,andgravelyenunciated,"_EsfavorqueUstedmehace_"--"Itisacomplimentyoupayme."Icouldhardlyrecoverfromtheshockintimetomakethestereotypedrejoinder,"_Noesfavor,esjusticia_"--"Nocompliment,butthetruth."TothisDonChubbykinssweetlyreturned,"_Milgracias_"--"Athousandthanks,"andIclosedthisuncannydialoguewiththedueresponse,"_Nolasmerece_"--"Itdoesnotmeritthem."

Servants,neighbors,passers-by,beggars,allpromptthechildrenintheseshibbolethsofgoodmanners,adorningthepreceptwithexample."Wouldyouliketogowithustothepicturegallerythisafternoon?"Ionceaskedaladdieofartistictastesataboarding-housetable."_Si,señora_,"hereplied,whereuponseveraloftheboarders,greatlyscandalized,hastenedtoremindhim,butinthegentlestoftones,oftheessentialaddition,"_conmuchogusto_"towhichwewereboundtoreply,"Thepleasurewillbeours."Thegirls,evenmorethantheboys,arebredintheseformalfashionsofintercourse.Everymorningtheyaskifyouhaverestedwell,andexpressgrieforgratification,

accordingtoyourresponse.InMrs.Gulick'sschool,meremidgetsofsixandeight,returningfromclass,willnotclosethedoorsoftheirroomsifyouareinsight,thoughperhapsseatedatareadingtableinthefartherendofthecorridor,lesttheyshouldappearinhospitable.OnourreturnfromItalica,athirstychildofseven,heatedtoexhaustionwiththesunandfunofthatAndalusianpicnic,refusedtotouchtheanise-seedwaterwhichsomegoodSamaritanhadhandeduptothedustycarriage,untiltheglasshadbeenofferedtoeveryoneelse,driverincluded,leaving,inthesequel,littleenoughforher.Onourmidnightreturnfromthe_Feria_,thissame_niña_ofgentlememory,staggeringandhalfcryingwithsleepiness,wouldneverthelessnotprecedeanyofhereldersinenteringthehomedoor."Afteryou,"shesobbed,withhardlyvoiceenoughtoadd,"Andmayyouallrest

well!""Thesametoyou,"chorussedtheadults,troopingby,andherfaintmurmurfollowed,"Manythanks."

"ShallIgiveyouthisfanwhenIgoaway,"Iaskedheronce,"orwouldyouratherhaveitnowtotaketotheparty?"Shewanteditthenandthere,butwhatsheansweredwas,"Ishallbebestpleasedtotakeitwhenyoulikebesttogiveit."

YoumustbewareofsayingtoalittleSpanishmaid,"Whatabeautifulrosebudinyourhair!"Instantlythehandisbusywiththepins."Itisatyourdisposal."Youhastilyprotest,"Athousandthanks,butno,no,no!Itisverywellplacedwhereitis."Offcomestheflower,notwithstanding,andisfastenedintoyourbelt.Forwhentheelder

sisterhasinsistedongivingyou(untilthenextball)thosedancingslipperswhichyousorashlyadmired,andthesister's_novio_wenthomethenightbeforewithouthiscloak,becauseyouhadapproveditscolors(althoughhesenthismanaroundforitbeforebreakfast),whatcanthechildrendobutfollowsuit?Eventheirformof"NowILayMe"istouchedwiththeirquaintpoliteness:--

"Jesus,Joseph,Mary,Yourlittleservantkeep,While,withyourkindpermission,



Ilaymedowntosleep."

TheprecocityofSpanishchildrenisarecognizedfact.Aneducationalexpert,aFrenchmanwhoholdsachairinanEnglishuniversity,assuredusthatbeyondadoubtSpanishchildren,forthefirstdozenyearsoflife,developmorerapidlythananyotherchildrenofEurope.Yet,althoughthesecleverlittleSpaniardsaresopunctiliouslytaughttoputthepleasureofothersbeforetheirown,theyaretreatedwithuniversalindulgence.Soldiersliningthecurbstonesonoccasionofaroyalprogresswillletthechildrenpressinbesidethemandclingtotheirvalorouslegs,untilthemilitaryarrayseemsvariegatedwithaKindergarten.MyfarewellglimpseofToledo,onCorpusChristiDay,makesaprettypictureinmemory.Thered-robedcardinal,whohadcometothestationtotakehistrain,wasfairlystormedbyallthechildrenwithinsight,clamoringforhisblessing.Invaintheattendantprieststriedtoscatterthethrong,andladiesofhighdegree,plantingtheirchairsinacircleabouttheprelate,actedasalaughingbody-guard.Itwasallofnoavail.Thelittlepeopledancedupanddownwitheagerness,dodgedunderarms,andslippedbetweenelbows.Theykneltuponthecardinal'sveryfeet,rapturouslykissinghisred-glovedhandandclaspingtotheirpinaforesandblousesthesacredtrinketshedistributed.Andhe,pattingthebobbingblackpates,whereverhecouldgetachance,smiledonthelittleonesandforbadethemnot.

Theaffectionlavishedonchildreninthehouseholdcircleisoftenpoeticandpassionate.Iobservedonedayabrusqueyoungfellowoftwenty-four,whomwehadthoughtratherahard,catch-pennysortofperson,suddenlygatherafour-year-oldnephewtohisheartandcoverthedimpledfacewithkisses,whilethelookinhisownblackeyeswasthelookofaSt.Anthony.Istoodonceinacrowdedcathedralandlostallsenseoftheserviceincontemplationofanuglymanikin,withcoarsefeaturesandrecedingforehead,whoheldafrailbabyboytightagainsthisbreast.Thiswasablue-eyed,fair-hairedwean,withaserious,far-awayexpression,andfromtimetotime,attractedbythegiltoftheceiling,heraisedatinypinkfore-fingerandpointedupward,whilethefather'sanimalface,neverturnedawayfromthe

child,becametransfiguredwithloveandworship.Hetookthebabyout,whenithadfallenasleepuponhisshoulder,anditwasgoodtoseethatdensethrongopenandmakealaneforhim,everyman,howeverbrutalorfrivoloushisaspect,beingcarefulnottojostlethedrooping,goldenhead.

ButSpanishchildren,socaressedandsoadored,areneverthelessmodestintheirbearing,andfallshylybackbeforeastranger.Irememberabeaminggrandfatherdisplayingtoustwoblushinglittlemen,biddingthemopentheireyeswidethatwemightcontrastcolors,turnbacktobackthatwemightmeasureheights,andinvariouswaysputtheirsmallselvesonshow,allwhichtheydidinmuteobedience,butatthewordofreleaseflewtogether,flungtheirarmsabouteach

other'snecks,rolledunderthenearesttable,andcurledupintotheleastpossiblebunchofbashfulagony.

Thepictures,frescos,andcarvingsofSpanishchurchesoftenreflectthelooksofSpanishchildhood.TheHolyFamilygivesawiderangeofopportunity,especiallyintheministeringcherubs.Thereisacrucifixinoneofthetwenty-twoaislechapelsofToledocathedral,wherethreebroken-heartedmitesofangels,justthreecryingbabies,arepiteouslystrivingtodrawoutthenailsfromtheSufferer'shandsandfeet.Manyofthesaint-groupsadmitofchildfigures,too,asthe



St.Christopher,whichalmostinvariablyappearsasacolossalnavepainting,"theGoliathoffrescos."

Itwouldbestrange,indeed,ifchildrenwerenotbelovedinthecountryofMurillo.Spainhasletthemostofhisbeggar-boypicturesgotoforeigncollections,butshehascherishedhisHolyFamiliesandcherub-peopledAnnunciations.SuchecstaticroguesasthoseAndalusiancherubsare!TheirrestlessringletscatchazureshadowsfromtheVirgin'smantle;theyperchtiptoeontheedgesofhercrescentmoon;theyholdupamirrortohergloryandpeepovertheframetoseethemselves;theypeltSt.Franciswithroses;theyplaybo-beepfrombehindthefleecyfoldsofcloud;theytryallmannerofaerialgymnastics.ButacharmtranscendingeventheirsdwellsinthosebabyChriststhatalmostspringfromtheMadonna'sarmstoours,inthoseboyChriststhattouchallboyhoodwithdivinity.ThesonoftheJewishcarpenter,happyinhisfather'sworkshopwithbirdanddog;theshepherdladwhoseearnesteyeslooktowardhiswaitingflock;thelovelyplaymates,radiantwithinnocentbeauty,whobendtogetherabovethewateroflife--fromthesealonemightCatholicSpainhavelearnedthesacrednessofchildhood.ButSpainfirstshowedMurillothevisionthatherenderedbacktoher.

XIII

THEYOLKOFTHESPANISHEGG

"FromMadridtoHeaven,andinHeavenalittlewindowforlookingbacktoMadrid."--_PopularSaying._

FewforeignerscanunderstandthesentimentofSpaniardsfortheircapital.MadridisthecrowncityofSpain,notbymanifestdestiny,butbydecreeofPhilipII,who,ashisnaturewas,betterlovedtheharshCastiliansteppe,bakedbysummersunsandchilledby

treacherouswinds,thantheromanticsierrasandgraciousrivervalleyswhereearlierroyalseatshadbeenestablished.IfinMadridthedesertblossomsliketherose,itisaleaflessrose,forthecityhasnosuburbs.ItlacksboththecharmofenvironmentsopotentinGranadaandSevilleandthecharmofancientstory,whichthesesharewiththoseotherbygonecourts--Toledo,Valladolid,Valencia,Saragossa.ItisnotavitalorganofmodernEuropeancivilization,likeartisticParisorstrenuousLondon.Andyetitismorecosmopolitan,andhencelessdistinctivelySpanishthanothercitiesofthePeninsula.Itisdevotedtothebull-fightandthelottery,aboundsinbeggarsandprostitutes,doesnottakenaturallytocommerce,andissadlybehindhandwithpopulareducation.YetMadrileñoscannotbepersuadedthattheskiesbeholditsequal,and

evenovertheAnglo-Saxonstrangeritsfascinationgraduallysteals.

Inthefirstplace,themirthofthehomelifebeguilestheseriousforeigner.Spanishhouseholdshaveapleasantnessquitetheirown.Allthenaturalvivacityandkindlinessofthepeoplefindfreeplayathome,whereservantssingandchildrenprattle,ladieschatterandgentlemenjest,allinanatmosphereofease,leisure,andspontaneoussociability.Thefatherisnotpreoccupiedwithbusiness,themotherhasneverdreamedofbelongingtoawoman'sclub,thechildrenhavelittletasteforreading,andfewbookstoread.Sotalkingisthe



orderoftheday,and,SanchoPanza!howtheytalk!Lingeringhalfthemorningoverthe_desayuno_ofthick,cinnamon-flavoredchocolate,intowhicharedippedstripsofbread,two-thirdsoftheafternoonoverthe_almuerzo_,asubstantialrepastofmeatandvegetables,fruitand_dulces_,andalltheeveningoverthe_comida_,wheresoupandthenationaldishof_puchero_areaddedtothenoontidebilloffare,theychatter,chatter,chatter,liketheteethofHarryGill.

Still,asofold,Spaniardsaretemperateinfoodanddrink."It'sasraretoseeaSpaniardadrunkardasaGermansober,"wroteMiddletonthreecenturiesago.Theyusemorewaterthanwine,andalthoughtheyhaveagrandappetiteforsweets,theytakethemincomparativelysimpleforms.Thenationallackofenterpriseisconspicuousevenhere,fordearlyastheSpaniarddotesonchocolateandsugar,Madriddoesnotmakeherownchocolatecreams,butimportsthemfromParistosell,whentheyaretoohardtoeat,atapricetoohightopay.

ButsmokingandtalkingareindulgenceswhichMadrileñoscarrytoexcess.Loungingonthebalcony,agaylypaintedcaseofpapercigarettesathand,theywillpasshoursinbanteringtheirwives,whomtheyworshipmuchastheyworshiptheimagesofMary,delightingtodresstheminfineclothesandglitteringtrinkets,andexpectinginreturn,itissaid,theirpardonforamultitudeofsins.Andwhenmylordsauntersforthto"rest"inoneoftheironchairsthatline

thepromenades,orinacaféwindow,oratanopen-airtablebeforeoneofthefrequentstallsofcoolingbeverages,thewomenofthehouseflocktogetherinsomeairycorner,stitchingawayontheirendlessembroideries,andreceiving,with"amillionkisses"andachorusofshrillwelcomes,themantilla-veiledladieswhocometocall.

Iftheafternoonisfryinghot,itisjustpossiblethatthegallivantingdonwillbethinkhimselftosendhomeatrayof _horchata_,asnowy,chilly,puckeryrefreshment,eatenbyaidofwafersintheformoflittletubesthatlookandtastemuchlikewrappingpaper.Thistreatgivesfreshanimationtotheemuloustongues.Theslightestneighborhoodincident,asrecountedinsucha

group,takesonapoeticvividnessandadramaticintensity,andwhenitisalltoldoveragainatthedinner-table,excitementwaxessohighthatlongafterthedishesandclothhavebeenremovedthefamilymaystillbefoundseatedaroundtheboard,flashingathousandlightsofsuggestionandsurmiseonthatdullbitofscandal.Thehusbandcannotceasefromdiscussionlongenoughtoreadtheeveningpaper,northewifetosendthelittleonestobed,andmidnightmayfindthethreegenerations,fromgrandfathertofour-year-old,stilltalkingwithmightandmain.

Accustomedguestscomeatoncetothediningroom,readytocontributetheirsharetothelivelyclashofvoices,ortotakepartinoneofthecharacteristicgamesofaSpanishfamilycircle,aslottery.In

thisfavoritepastime,victory,includingagoodlyhandfulofcoppers,fallstohimwhosecheckedandnumberedsquareofpasteboardismostquicklyfilledwithbeans.Theseareplacedonthesquarescalledbythebag-holder,whodrawsnumbershaphazardfromhissibyllinesack.Whenthesmallhourscomein,thecompanymayadjourntothesalafordancingandmusic,butconversationundercoverofthesegushesonmoreimpetuouslythanever--theCastilianartofarts.

Oneofthechiefgracesofthe_tertulias_consistsintheirinformality--theirfranksimplicity.Evenonasaintday--aday



consecratedtothesaintwhosenamesomememberofthefamilybears--whileallthenearerfriendsdropinforcongratulation,withperhapsagiftofflowers,incaseofalady,orsweetmeatsforachild,the_tertulia_requiresnofurtherexerciseofhospitalitythananopendoorandafeastofwords.Thereismoreblithesomeness,for _haysantoencasa_(thereisasaintinthehouse),butnomoreparade,withitspreliminaryfretandfuss.

ThestreetsofMadrid,too,haveacuriousfascination.Inthemorninghoursthereisthepicturesqueconfusionofthemarket.Thedonkeysareunladenhere,there,andeverywhere,andthesidewalksandsquarespromptlydottedoverwithbrightlittleheapsofdeliciousToledocherries,Valencianapricots,Murcianlemons,andallthegreensoftheseason.Thepeasantwomen,squattedamongtheirlettucesandcucumbers,seemmuchmoreinterestedingossipingwiththeirneighborsthaninsecuringcustomers.Babiestumbleabout,crushingthepinksandroses,andcabmengood-naturedlypicktheirwayasbesttheycanamongthesevariousvegetableandhumanobstacles.Vendersofbooks,too,liketopavethestreetwithrowsofopenvolumes,whosepagesaresoondimmedwithdust,andartisans,especiallycobblers,setuptheirbenchesjustoutsidetheirdoors,andaddtheclickoftheirhammerstothegeneraldin.

Intheearlyafternoontheshadysideofthestreetislinedwiththe

outstretchedformsofworkingmen,takingtheindispensablesiesta.Someresttheirblackpatesonarmorfoldedjacketorbagoftools,butplentyofbronzedlaborersslumberpeacefullyallproneonthehotpaving,withnotsomuchasacabbageleafforapillow.Beggarsliealongthestonebenchesofthe_paseos_andparks,cabmensleepontheircabs,portersovertheirthresholds,andIonceturnedawayfromachurchIhadcomefartovisit,nothavingthehardihoodtowakentheverger,who,keysinhand,wassnoringlikeanorgan,sprawledacrosshalfadozengranitesteps.

Asthecoolofeveningapproaches,theovercrowdedhousesofthepoorpourforthentirefamiliesintothestreet,wheresupperiscookedandeaten,andallmannerofdomesticoperationscarriedon.Beforeevery

doorisatleastoneblack-eyedbaby,inalittlewoodencagesomethinglikeachurn,withrimrunningunderthearmpits,sothatthechild,safefromstrayingorfalling,maybelefttohisowndevices.Asdarknessdeepens,outcomethestarsandthe_serenos_.Theselatter,inMadrid,nolongercryfairweather,buttheyholdthekeysofthehouses--anarrangementthatIneverlearnedtotakeseriously.

Returningfromvisitortheatreintheevening,Ifounditdifficulttosaywithrequisitesolemnitytothedriver,"WouldyoubesokindastoshoutforCelestino?"Thedriverpromptlyroars,"Celestino!"andtwinklinglightscomebobbingtowardusfromfarandnear,butnoCelestino."He'sinthewineshop,"suggestsIsidro,whosecharge

beginsthreehousesabove."He'seatingiron,"assertsPedro,inthephrasedescribingthosecolloquieswhichaSpanishsuitorcarriesonwithhisdivinitythroughthegrating.Thenweallchorus,"Celestino!"andagain,"Celestino!"andagain,"Celestino!"

Atthisacloakedfigurecomesrunningacrossthesquare,wavingalanternoverhisheadandvociferatingjocundapologies:"Iregretitextremely.Iamstrickenwithsorrow.ButatthefirstcallIwaswettingmylipsatthefountain,andatthesecondIwaspausingtoexchangefourwordsonlywiththeladyofmysoul,andatthethirdI



said_Vamos!_andatthefourth--lookyou,Iamhere."SoheunlocksthedoorandlightsthestairwaywithhislanternuntilIhaveascendedthefirstflight,whenhecheerilycallsout,"_Adios!_"andshutsmeintodarknesswhichIamexpectedtoilluminateformyfurtherclimbbystrikingmatches.

Madridstreetsarebynomeansaltogetherdelectable.Somearebroadandwellkept,butothersarenarrow,dirty,andmalodorous.Worstofall,tomyownthinking,istheMadridstare,which,hardlylessoffensivethantheParisstare,ismoreuniversal.Itisamusingtoseehowfearlesslyamatronofeighteensalliesforthalone,whilemanyMadridspinstersoffiftywouldnotgoablockunattended.Norareannoyancesconfinedtostaring.Eveninreputableshopsawomansoonlearnstobeonherguard,whenherattentionisespeciallycalledtobookorpicture,lestitprove"asilliness."

MadridisbetterthanthecitiesofAndalusia,andworsethanthecitiesofnorthernSpain,initstreatmentofwomen.AyoungSpanishgirlcannotwalkalone,howeversedately,inSeville,withoutarunningfireofsalutations--"Oh,theprettyface!""Whatcheeksofrose!""Blessedbethymother!""Givemealittlesmile!"AndeveninMadrid,Spanishgirlsofmyacquaintancehavebrokentheirfansacrossthefacesofmenwhotriedtocatchakissinpassing.

InMadrid,asalmosteverywhereinSpain,beggingisaleadingindustry.Somanybegfromlazinessorgreedthatitiseasytolosepatience,themostessentialpartofatraveller'sSpanishoutfit.Theearisweariedbytheeverlastingdroneandwhine:"Oh,dearlady,fortheloveofGod!Alldaymychildrenhavehadnobread.Givemefive _centimos_,onlyfive_centimos_,andHeavenwillpayyouback.Lady!lady!lady!lady!Five_centimos_,inthenameofallthesaints!"Andtheeyeisoffendedbythecontinualobtrusionofulcers,cripplings,anddeformities.NolessthanSevilleandGranada,Madridaboundswithchildbeggars.ThereweretwojollylittlecripplesonthePrado,whousedtorace,eachonhisoneleg,toovertakemebeforeIshouldreachtheMuseosteps.Anotherboy,onwhosefaceIneversawasmile,satatthecornerofastreetIdailypassed,holdingouttwo

shapelessblocksofhands.BythegateoftheBuenRetirowasstationedablindman,withagirlweanonhisknee.Itwaspatheticandamusingtoseehimfeedingherthesupperofbreadandmilk,forthespooninhisgropinghandandthepoutofherbabymouthoftenfailedtomakeconnection.

TheprevalenceofeyediseaseinSpainisprobablyduetosun,todust,andtogenerationsofpoverty.Thepoundingofablindman'sstickuponthepavementisoneofthemostcommoncitysounds.Thecharitablemayoftenbeseenleadingtheblindacrossthestreets.Itrieditmyselfoncewithanimperiousoldwoman,whoclungtothecurbstonesometwentyminutesbeforeshecouldmustercouragefortheplunge,lecturingmefluentlyallthetimeonthedangersofarash

disposition.Thereare,ofcourse,manycasesoffraud--caseswhere,whentheday'sworkisover,theblindseeandthelamewalk.Oneofthepopular_coplas_hasitsflingatthese:--

"Thearmlessmanhaswrittenaletter;Theblindmanfindsthewritingclear;Themuteisreadingitaloud,Andthedeafmanrunstohear."

YetitiscertainthatamongthebeggarsofMadridisaheartrending



amountofgenuinemisery.OnedayIpassedanaged_ciego_,sittingonadoorstep,intheAlcalá,hiswhiteheadboweduponhisbreastinsuchutterwearinessofdejectionthatIpausedtofindhimacopper.Butbettercharitythanminecametocomfortthatwornheart.Alameoldpeanutwomanlimpeduptohim,withthepityofthewretchedforthewretched.ShedrewfromherapronpocketacoinwhichIhadrarelyseen--_doscentimos_,two-fifthsofacentinvalue.AnAustrian,whohadlivedinSpainfouryears,toldmehehadneveronceencounteredthatpaltrypieceofmoney.Butshecouldnotspareitall."Hastthouone_centimo_forchange,brothermine?"sheasked.Andtheblindman'ssensitivefingersactuallyfoundinhisleanleatherpursethattinymetalbit,whichonlythepoorestofthepooreverseeincirculation.Hegravelykissedthecoinshegaveandmadewithitthesignofthecrossonbrowandbreast,saying,"Blessedbethisgift,mysister,whichthymercyhasbestowedonamanofmanytroubles!MayourMotherMarykeepfortheeathornlessrose!"

"AndmayGod,whosendsthecoldaccordingtoourrags,lightenallthygriefs!Restthouinpeace,"shereplied.

"GothouwithGod,"washisanswer.

BeggingwasarecognizedandlicensedindustryinMadridayearago,thoughabillofreform,whosefateIhavefailedtolearn,wasthen

underconsideration.Amotherwouldgatherherbroodaboutherandgoforthforherday'swork.Theybegupanddowntheiraccustomedbeatduringthemorning,eatastheirgainsallow,liedowninthedusttogetherfortheafternoonsiesta,andrisetobediligentinbusinessduringthehoursoffashionablepromenade.Theystoppedestrians,chasecarriages,pressintoshopstotormentthecustomersatthecounter,andreachbeseechingpalmsthroughtheopenwindowsofcafés.Gentlemenescortingladiesaretheirpeculiarvictims,forwelltheyknowthatmanyamanwhonevergivesunderothercircumstancesisashamedtoseemungenerousundersurveyofstarryeyes.

Thereisonlyonephrasethatwillshakeofftheprofessionalbeggar,"MayGodaidyou!"Onhearingthishemakesitapointofreligious

honortofallback.ButasIcouldnotusethatformulawithoutfeelingmyselfsomethingbetweenashirkandahypocrite,IhadtogetonasbestIcouldwiththeineffectual,"Pardonme,mybrother,"towhichshouldproperlybeadded_PorDios_(forGod'ssake).

TheSpanishmendicantknowsnothingoftheAnglo-Saxonfeeling,"TobegIamashamed."NoRareBenJonsonhasthunderedinhisears:--

"Artthouaman?andsham'stthounottobeg?Topractisesuchaservilekindoflife?Why,werethyeducationne'ersomean,Havingthylimbs,athousandfairercoursesOfferthemselvestothyelection.

EitherthewarsmightstillsupplythywantsOrserviceofsomevirtuousgentleman,Orhonestlabor:nay,whatcanIname,Butwouldbecometheebetterthantobeg?"

FromtheSpanishpointofview,onthecontrary,itismanuallabor,notbeggary,thatstainstheescutcheon.AGermanladyofmyacquaintancesaidtoastronglybuiltmanwhowaspleadingforalms,"Ifyouwillcarrymybagupthesestairs,Iwillgladlypayyou."Deeplyinsulted,hefoldedhiscloakabouthimwithhidalgodignity,



saying,"Madame,Iamabeggar,notalaborer."Certainmonasteriessendoutbrothers,withplatesandbags,onadailybegginground--brotherswhomaybelongtothefirstfamiliesofSpain.TheChurchisoftencitedasindorsingmendicancy.Extollingalmsgivingasaprimevirtue,anditselfmaintainingavastnumberofcharitableinstitutions,ithasnotyetassimilatedmodernmethodsofrelief.

Afavoritestoryforchildren,usedassupplementaryreadingintheschools,iscalled"TheMedaloftheVirgin."Thisis,infact,aRomanCatholicversionof"Fortunatus'sPurse."Itssmallheroine,MaryoftheAngels,isanorphan,defraudedbyamiserofherrichinheritanceandtreatedwithbarbaritybytheuncleandauntforwhomsheisanuncomplainingdrudge.Butonce,infestivehour,theygiveherfive_centimos_,whichthisgenerousinnocentpromptlybestowsonabeggarwoman,whoholdsababyinherraggedarms.Inreturn,thebeggargivesthechildaqueer,old-fashionedmiteofacoin,whichturnsouttohavetheWallStreetqualityofheavingupalittlemountainofgoldaboveitselfeveryhourortwo.

MaryoftheAngelssalliesforthforatourofthecountry,pouringhandfulsofgoldintothelapsofthebeggarswhositatthechurchdoorsandcitygates,untilsheisescortedwherevershegoesbyanarmyofthehaltandblindsingingherpraises.Atlast,havinggivenawaysuchPyreneesofgoldthatnotabeggarcouldbefoundinallthe

landforacenturytocome,thefootsorelittlephilanthropistbegstheVirgintorelieveherofthecoin.TheMadonnadescendsinabeamoflight,theChristChildsmilingfromherarms,yetintheradiantgroupMaryoftheAngelsrecognizestheobjectsofherearliestcharity."ForI,"explainstheMadonna,"amtheholybeggarfromheaven.Thepooroftheearthgivemetheirtearsandprayers,andforsuchalmsdoIholdoutmyhandtoallthesorrowful."

YettheprogressiveelementinSpainisallthemoreashamedofthebeggarsbecausetheyarenotashamedofthemselves,andafewyearsmayseeMadridsweptasclearofmendicancyasisSanSebastianto-day.

Madridissuchaneasy-goingcitythatonehardlyrealizesatfirsthowwellitperformscertainofitsfunctions.Itswatersupply,forinstance,isexcellent,althoughwhenoneseesthepicturesquegroups,withthosesameclaywater-jarsoverwhichRebeccasmiledonJacob,lingeringaboutthegraystonefountains,oneexpectsapatriarchalflavorintheliquid.ThetramwayserviceofMadrid,everythingradiatingfromthe_PuertadelSol_,ismostconvenient,althoughelectricityisalittleslowincomingtothereliefofhorse-flesh.Theshops,fairlywellstocked,gildcommercewithSpanishgraces.Youacceptachair,youpassthecourtesiesoftheday,thegentlemanwhoservesyou,oftenwithcigarinmouth,isseldomsureastojustwhatgoodshehasonhand,andisstillmorerarelydogmaticastotheirprice.

Thetugofwar,however,comesingettingthemdelivered.TendaysbeforequittingMadridIboughtatoneofthebestofthe_librerias_ anumberofbooks,includingseveralillustratedcataloguesoftheVelázquezsala.Theselastwereprettytriflesboundinwhiteparchment,andasIintendedthemforgifts,Iwantedfreshcopies."Youwishthemclean,allofthem?"askedtheproprietor,withanaccentofsurprise.IrepliedthatIdid,andwouldmoreoverbeobligedifhecouldfitthemwithenvelopesreadyformailing.Envelopeshehadnone,buthepromisedtotiethemupinseparate



parcels."Andbooksandbillwillcomewithoutfailthisafternoon?"Helookedpainedtotheheart."Thisverymorning,señora.Youwillfindthemawaitingyouonyourreturn."OnthethirddayIsentanote,andonthefifthaboyarrivedwiththebulkofmypurchase,butnocataloguesnorbill.Iexplainedtothelad,whosmilinglybesoughtmetogivemyselfnoconcern,thatIwasonthepointofleavingthecityforgood,andpreferrednottogoawayindebt;butthedayspassed,andmyinabilitytoextortthatreckoningbecamethejestofthehousehold.Atlast,driventodesperatemeasures,Iwentthroughnoondayheattothestore,andactuallyfoundthatprocrastinatingbooksellerscatteringcigarashesoveralittleheapofcatalogues,whilehecontemplatedthepicturesofeachcopyinturn."Behold,señora,"heexclaimed,asserenelyasifnottenminuteshadelapsedsinceourparting,"hereIhaveforyouimmaculatebooklets,stainless,faultless,suchaswillrejoicethosefortunatefriendstowhomyouhavetheamiabilitytosendthem.AndIamthisinstantabouttopreparethemforthepostwithinviolatesecurity."

[Illustration:"CHRISTOFTHESEVENWORDS"]

Iexpressedmyobligations,butentreatedhimtodrawuptheaccountandletmesettleitthenandthere,asIwaswithintwenty-fourhoursofdeparture."Andintravelling,"Iaddedapologetically,"itisdifficulttosendbackmoney."Attheobnoxiouswordheflunguphands

andeyebrows."Señora!"Ilefttheshop,feelingvaguelythatIhadbeenguiltyofaflagrantindelicacy,aswellasblackingratitude.Thecatalogues,veryslightlywrapped,arrivedonthemorrow,justintimetobethrustintomyshawlstrap,andIpaidthebillamidthefinalagitation,sounfavorabletoarithmetic,ofportersandfarewells.

Ihadworsefortuneintryingtosubscribeforacertainpopularperiodical.Iwenttotheofficeinthedesignatedbusinesshours,tofindthat,ofthethreemenwhoshouldhavebeenthere,onehadalreadygone,onehadnotarrived,andthethirdhad"steppedoutforalittlerest."Thejanitorleftincharge,asympatheticpersonwhocouldnotreadnorwrite,thoughtifIwouldreturnonSundayatmy

luncheonhour,theremightbesomebodytherequalifiedtoreceivemysubscriptionandaddress,but,hesagelyadded,"inthisworldwearesureofnothing."

Madridpossessesthe_BibliotecaNacional_withvaluablemanuscriptsandsomethinglikeonemillionbooks,handsomelyhoused,wherearrangementsaremadeforoverthreehundredreaders,buthere,asintheotherSpanishcities,publiclibrariesintheAmericansenseoflibrarieslargelyusedbythegeneralpublicarepracticallynon-existent.Thebookstores,too,exceptforthelatestSpanishpublications,leavemuchtobedesired.Asarule,onecangetonlythemostmeagreinformationconcerningtextsandeditionsofthenationalclassics,andthesupplyofnewFrenchnovelsornewGerman

playsisfarlesscompletethanthestockofParisglovesandGermancutlery.Thislast,socannyhavethehonestTeutonsgrown,isusuallyengraved_Toledo_.

Invarietyofweather,however,Madridsurpassesallexpectations,furnishingthesultriestheat,thechilliestcold,thedustiestdust,andthemostprodigiouscrashesofthunderandlumpsofhailtobefoundinthemeteorologicalmarket,andallthesewithinafewhoursofoneanother.Butwhatwithfans,_braseros_,balconies, _horchaterias_,anarmyofstreetwaterers,and,mostessentialof



all,aninexhaustiblefundofgoodhumor,theMadrileñocontrivestoliveonfriendlytermswithhisclimate,althoughhedaresnotlayasidehiscloakbefore"thefortiethofMay."

Apartfrombull-fightsandriots,thoseragesofexcitementthatseemtoindicateaperiodicalfeveringofthesouthernblood,theMadrileñotakeshispleasureswithadignifiedsimplicity.Thecityisexceedinglyrichinopensquares,well-shadedparks,andlongreachesofgreenpromenade,andhere,withseveraldozencigarettesandafewcoppersforwaterand_agráz_,hewilesthehoursaway,chattingwithfriendsandadmiringtheladieswhorollpastinsprucelandaus.OverthegateofthesocialparadiseofMadriditmustbewritten,"Noadmittanceexceptincoaches,"foracarriageseemsessentialtohighlife.Liveriedcoachman,ratherthanpowderedbutler,isthe_sinequanon_.Duringthehotseasonthisoutdoorparadeisingaycareeratmidnight,andwholefamilies,babiesandnursesincluded,maybeseengatheredinfestiveknotsaroundsmallrefreshmenttables,withinsoundoffountainsprayandgardenmusic.Thereareopen-airconcerts,andconcertsinsmoke-becloudedhalls,greenswarddances,anddancessteppedoncafétablesamongdisorderedclustersofbottlesandglasses,andthereisalwaysthetheatre,onwhichyourSpaniarddotes.

Inthewinterseasonthereisopportunitytoenjoyclassicdramaat

the_TeatroEspañol_,wheretheBernhardtofSpain,"LaGuerrero,"supportedbyhergrandeehusband,Mendoza,holdssway.WhenIsawthemtheywereusingshortfarcesofCervantesandLopedeRuedaforcurtainraiserstoaromanticdramabyTirsodeMolinaandamodernsocietyplaybyEchegaray.Isawthem,too,inZorrilla'ssingulardramaticversionof"DonJuan,"theonlyplayallowedinSpanishtheatresonthenightofAllSaints.

FromMarchtoNovember,however,the_TeatroEspañol_isclosed,andthereislittledoingatthe_TeatroReal_,anaristocratictempleofItalianopera.DuringthesummerseasonthetheatricalopportunitiesofMadridaremainlylimitedtothepopular_zarzuelas_,oroperettas,fourofwhichareusuallygiveninanevening.Eachtheatreoffersa

newprogrammeoftheseeverynight,butthereislittleofliteraryinterestexcept,nowandthen,atakingtriflefromthepenofHartzenbuschorEchegaray.

TheMadridtheatrerecksnaughtofearlyrisers.Theopeningvaudevilleisseldomunderwaybeforenineo'clock;thehouseisclearedaftereachperformance,andoftentheencoresandrepetitionsprolongapopular_zarzuela_quitebeyondthehourlimit.Ontheotherhand,iftheaudienceissmall,theopeningpiecemaybecutdowntothemerestoutline.Irememberonesuchoccasionwhentheboxesweresoemptyandthefarcesofamiliarthattheorchestrafairlychaffedtheactorsoffthestage."Enough,enough!Thoumaystwithdraw!"chantedthelyriclovertoanintrudingservant."Andsomaystthou,"

calledoutavoicefromamongtheviolins."I'vetoldmypassiontothestars,"continuedtheactorinhismostmellifluoustenor,makingthedistantloveoftheSpanishstagetoaladywhowassmilingfranklyontheaudaciousfiddler."Poorstars!"interpolatedthisworthysosympatheticallythateverybodylaughed,thesingerwounduphistransportsintheshortestpossibleorder,andtheremainingsceneswerehardlymorethanpantomime.Butsuchwastheuniversalgoodnatureandindifferencetobusinessexactitudes,thatneitherartistsnorticket-holderstookthiscurtailmentoftheirrightsinumbrage.



AmongtheexcellencesofMadridmustbecountedher_museos_.The _Armería_,withitsplumedandsteel-cladwarriors,allattourney,isnomerelumberroomofwickedoldiron,asmighthavebeenexpected,butanewcantoofthe"FaeryQueene."The_MuseoNaval_stillsmellsoftheboundlessbrineandIslesofSpicery.The_MuseoArqueológicoNacional_sweepsone,asonthemagiccarpetofAlhambralegend,throughtheentiretragedyofSpain.Herearethesuccessiveleavesofherstrangepicture-book--scratched,prehistoricflints,grass-wovenIberiansandals,rudelysculpturedshapesinsandstonegraspingwinecupsthatsuggestwholeRubaiyats,Phoeniciananchors,bronzetablesofRomanlaws,Moorisharabesques,mediævalaltars,modernwaresandfineries,whilebarbaricspoilsofPeruvianidols,Mexicanfeather-shields,sacrificialstones,andfiguresofforestlordsspeaktotheimaginationofthatvastcolonialempirewhichroseoutofadreamtomeltagainlikeverydreamstuff,leaving"notarackbehind."TheseIhaveseen,buttherearetwiceasmanymoreMadridmuseumswhichIhadnottimetosee,andwhich,Iamtold,arenolessrichinraritiesandnolesseffectiveinpictorialbeautyofarrangement.

Oftheartgalleries,whocansayenough?Thesupreme_MuseodelPrado_somagnetizespilgrimfeetthatitishardtospareevenafewhoursforthe_AcadémiadeBellasArtes_,withitsgrandMurillosandcalmZurbaráns,orthe_MuseodeArteModerno_,withitssuccessionof

canvasesdepictingsceneuponsceneofdeath,decay,murder,execution,starvation,battle,torture,frenzy.WhateverismosthorribleinthestoryofthePeninsula--JuanatheMadstaringatherhusband'scoffin,thebloodyfallofthebetrayedTorrijosandhisband,thenoblesofPortugaldoingshudderinghomagetotheexhumedcorpseofInezdeCastro,allthatmovesdisgust,distress,dismay,seemsflauntedhere.ThetechniqueisFrench,butthesubjectsareSpanish.Manyofthepictureshavehistoricaldignityandfaithfulness,afewreproducethemodernnationaltypes,withapreferenceforbull-fightersandanarchistsoverfishermenandpeasants,butonemissesthespiritualbeautythatwenthandinhandwiththespiritualterroroftheolderart.DotheSpanishpaintersofto-dayderiveonlyfromGoyaandRibera?

Theold-timepopularceremoniesarefastfadingoutofEuropeanizedMadrid.EventheChristmasmirthiswaning,thoughstillon_NocheBuena_the_PlazaMayor_isclosesetwithbooths,andtheInfantaIsabel,_muyMadrileña_thatsheis,makesapointofdrivingthroughandheapinghercarriagewithfairings.OnTwelfthNight,too,thereareafewsmallboystobeseenscamperingaboutthestreets,lookingforthearrivaloftheMagi.Everyyeardropssomethingofthemediævalheritage,andithasfallentomylottochroniclethepassingofoneofMadrid'smostancientandcomfortablerites.TheprincipalsaintdaysofJune,July,andAugustareprecededby _verbenas_,oreveningfairs,chiefamongthesebeingthe_VerbenadeSanJuan_,onMidsummerNight.Manyababyhasagrandfrolicthis

evening,rockedbackandforthonhismamma'sknees,laughingeyestolaughingeyes,whileshedipsherheadtohisandtickleshislittleneckwithkissesintimetotheancientditty:--

"Recotín,recotón!ThebellsofSt.John!There'safestivalon.Recotín,recotín,recotón!"

Faralongthe_Prado_gleamthebusyfiresoverwhicharemerrily



bubblingtheoiliestandbrownestof_buñuelos_.Therowsoflightedstalls,whichhavesprunguplikemushroomsoneithersideofthepromenade,presenttotherevelling,roving,shiftingthronganamazingvarietyoftawdryknickknacks,ingeniouslydevisedtomeetnohumanwant.Aswedroveslowlyupanddown,enjoyingthescene,whilebeggarsranbesidethecarriageandhawkersdartedoutuponuswithshrillcries,the"Americangirl"ofourlittlegroupstroveearnestlytofind"somethingtobuy."

Themostusefulandconvenientarticleforatravellerthatcouldbediscoveredwasapasteboardbull'sheadonalongstick,butherchaperon,mindfuloftrunkdimensions,discouragedthispurchasesoeffectivelythatLittleBostongracefullymadeherselfamendsbypresentingusallwithimagesofSt.John.ThesescandalouslyrepresentedtheBaptistasaballetgirlinshortcotton-woolskirtsandgiltribbons,wavingabannerwithonehandandleadingatwo-leggedlambwiththeother.

Asmidnightdrewnear,carriagesandfoot-folkallpressedtowardthestatelyCybelefountain.Itseemsthattherewasonce,inthe_PuertadelSol_,amagicspringwhosewaters,sprinkledatMidsummerMidnightonthemostunlikelyhead,insuredaweddingwithintheyear.Tramsandcabs,riotsandbloodshed,drovethepreciouscharmawaytothe _Prado_,eventothissameCybelefountain,whichformanygenerations

hascontinuedtoworkbridalmiracles.Sorecentlyas1898,assoonastheclockinthetowerofthestatelyBankofSpainstruckmidnight,withweddingcadenceslingeringinitspeal,eagerfeetwentsplashingthroughthebroadmarblebasin,andtheenchantedwater,thrownbyhandfulsandcupfulsfaroutoverthecrowd,sparkledevenonbaldpatesandwigs.

ButalasforMadridandherMidsummerNight'sDream!SomeprosaicpersongotwetandtattledtotheAlcalde.Sowheninnaturalagitation,onouronlyVerbenaofSt.John,wehadpersuadedthecompassionatecoachmantodriveascloseasclosemightbetothefountain,weencounteredabristling,unromanticrailing,andoutsideofthisagrimcircleofpolice,frowningmenaceonthatdisconcerted

host.Everymomentmorecarriages,withveiledladiesandrheumaticgentlemen,dashedup,andtheindignantcrowdsurgedforwardtotheverybuttonsofauthority.Butmidnightchimedinvain.Onedesperategraybeardvaultedovertherailing,onlytobehustledbackwithcontumely.Ingeneral,however,thatgreatpressofpeopleremainedasmeekasthelionsofCybele'schariot--alackofspiritonlytobeaccountedforbyrememberingthatthismidnightcompanywasmadeupoftheshamefacedandrejected,suchanassemblageofblightedbeingsas,nowthatthelastspellissnapped,earthwillneverseeagain.EventhedecorousCybelelaughedinhermarblesleeve.

SopassestheoldMadrid;butthereisanewMadrid,ofwhichawordstillwaitstobesaid.

XIV

ASTUDYINCONTRASTS

"Hereyouhavethem,thetwoSpains,unlike,antagonistic,squaredforconflict."



--_VidaNueva._

Theworld-oldstrugglebetweenconservatismandadvanceisatitsmostdramaticpointinSpain.Theunitedforcesofclericalismandmilitarismworkforthecontinuanceofancientinstitutions,methods,ideas,andthoseleaderswhodobattleinthenameofliberalismaretoooftennothingmorethanselfishpoliticians.Butwithalltheseoddsagainstprogress,itismakingway.Themassofthepeople,keptsolonginthedarknessofignoranceandsuperstition,arelookingtowardthelight.DuringmylastweekinMadridIchancedupontwoextremeexpressionsofthesewarringprinciples.Thefirstwasaroyalandreligiousceremony,thesecondamonstermassmeeting,--theoneintentoncherishingthepast,theotherclamoringatthegatesofthefuture.

Iwaslookingoverthe_Imparcial_asItookmycoffeeonemorning,whenmyeyefellonanitemtotheeffectthattherewouldbe_capillapublicaenPalacio_atteno'clock.Atravellerlearnstojumpatopportunity.Publicserviceintheroyalchapelpromisedtobeofinterest,andhalf-pastninefoundmewaiting,withamiscellaneouscompanyofgentlesandtatterdemalions,nativesandforeigners,onthepalacesideofthe_PlazadeArmas_,theexpectantthrongstreamingfardownthepavedandcoveredway.Wewerewellmarshalledby

soldiers,whokeptthecrowdinformofalongtroop,andbandedthisbymilitarylines,withgleamingbayonets.Thesebands,butafewfeetapart,wereeffectualinpreventingcrowdinganddisorder,andwhenatlastthedoorswerethrownopen,adoublerankofsoldiersclosedinbeforetheportalasoftenastheenteringfileshowedanytendencytopressandhurry,andthuspassedusthroughbysmalldivisions,sothattherewasnounseemlystrugglingonthesuccessionofbare,plainstairwaysthatledtotheuppergalleries.

For"publicserviceintheroyalchapel,"Iwasnowtodiscover,doesnotmeanthatthepublicisadmittedtothechapelitself.Thisissmall,butverySpanish,withprofusionofgilding,imposingaltar,andfrescoedsaints,thecharacteristicsplendorbeingtemperedwitha

nolesscharacteristicgloom,aneffectenhancedbyausterecolumnsofgraymarble.Ondaysofpublicservice,whichareusuallyhighfeastdays,threelonggalleries,formingthreesidesofagreatquadrangle,aretraversedbythecourtinpassingfromtheroyalroomstothechapeldoor,anditistothesegalleriesonlythatthepublicisadmitted.Onsuchoccasionsthegallerywallsarehungwithrichlycoloredtapestriesfromthemagnificentcollectionofeighthundredpiecesthatenrichestheroyal_Tapiceria_.

TheinstantIcrossedthethresholdthesetapestriesblazedupontheeye,sodazzlingintheirbeautythatitwasdifficulttograspthegeneralsituation.CivilGuards,ingalauniform,eacharmedwithapiketallerthanhimself,werestationedatintervalsofaboutsix

feetallalongthesetapestriedwalls,holdingthecarpetedwayopenforthepassageoftheroyalandecclesiasticalparty.Thepublichastenedtofillinthespacesleftbetweentheguards,sothatwhenthedignitariespacedthelengthofthethreegalleries,theywalkedbetweencontinuoushumanlinesofmingledsoldieryandspectators.Wewereofvariousages,sizes,colors,andquiteaspicturesque,takeitallinall,astheslowlysteppinggrouponwhichoureyeswerefocussed.

Adivisionoftheroyalescort,marchingwithdrawnswords,preceded



theQueenRegent,aslightandelegantfigureinwhiteandheliotrope,hermantillapinnedwithdiamonds.Shewalkedinroyalsolitude,withabearingofmajestyandgrace,butherfacehadahardandalmostsourlook,whichofitselfmightaccountforherunpopularity.TheKingandtheyoungerInfantadidnottakepartintheday'sceremony,butthePrincessofAsturiasfollowedhermother,afresh-facedgirl,charminglydressedinwhiteandblue,withpearlsandturquoises.Arespectfulsteportwointherearofherniece,yetathersideratherthanbehind,cameinrichgreensilkadornedwithemeraldsthestout,gray-puffed,easy-goingInfantaIsabel,herbroad,floridfacebeamingwithaffability.Theguardshadpassedsternworddownthelineforallhatstobeoff,buttherewasnosignofgreeting,sofarasIsaw,fromthespectatorstotheroyalparty,exceptasnowandthensomehappySpaniardbowedhimtothedustinacknowledgmentofanod,asfamiliarasawink,fromthispopularInfanta.

TheoccasionofthisstatelyfunctionwastheelevationofthePapalNunciototherankofcardinal.Hepassedinallpriestlymagnificenceofvestmentsandjewels,hisredhatbornebeforehimonacushion.HewasattendedbythechiefclericsofCourtandcapital,buteventhesegorgeouspersonageswereoutshonebythemilitaryandnavalofficers,whosebreastswereamosaicofmedals,andwhoseheadgearsucherectionsofvaingloryastohushthecrestedcockatoowithshame.TheGentlemenofthePalace,too,weresuchpeacocksin

theirglitteringcoatsofmanycolors,theirplumesandsashes,goldlaceandsilverlace,thattheplumpLadiesinWaiting,foralltheirprideofvelvet,satin,andbrocade,lookedlikemerehensinthewakeofstruttingchanticleers.

TheAmericanmindisillpreparedtodohomagetothedressparadesofEuropeancourts,andIlaidbythememorytolaughoverwhenIshouldhavereachedaplaceandhourwherelaughterwouldbeinoffensive.AstheDiplomaticCorps,initsvariedcostumes,cametroopingon,twiceawhisperranalongthegazinglines."TheTurk!"andthetraditionalenemyofSpainlimpedsmilinglypast,abent,shrewd-facedoldMussulman,whoseOrientalfinerywastoppedbytheredfez."TheYankee!"andSpain'slatestadversarystrodebyinthepersonofthe

newlyarrivedUnitedStatesMinister,decorouslyarrayedindresssuitandaCatholicexpression.

Thechapeldoorsclosedonthishaughtytrain,andwe,theinvitedpublic,cheerilyproceededtopassasocialhourortwoinchatandpromenadeandincontemplationofthetapestries.EventheCivilGuardsunbent,dancingtheirbabies,lendingtheirpikestodelightedurchins,andraisingforbiddencurtainstogivetheirwomenkindfurtivepeepsintotheroyalapartments.Mostastonishingwasthemaltreatmentofthosepricelesstapestries.Smallboys,unrebuked,playedathideandseekundertheheavyfolds,oldmentracedthepatternswithhornyfingers,andtheroughestfellowsfromthestreetsloungedstupidlyagainstthem,rubbingdirty-jacketedshouldersover

thesuperbcoloring.Themostsplendidseriesdisplayedwasfromamaster-loomoftheNetherlands,illustratingtheconquestofTunisbyCharlesV--marvellouslyvividscenes,whereonebeholdsthespreadofmightycamps,thebattleshockofgreatarmiesandnavies,and,likeshrillchordsofpaininsomewildharmony,thecountlessindividualtragediesofwar.ThescimitaroftheTurkflashesdownontheSpanishneck,whiletheupturnedeyesarestilltoofierceforterror;theturbanedchiefleansfromhisgold-wroughtsaddletoscantheseveredheadsthattwoblood-stainedsonsoftheprophetareemulouslyholdinguptohissurvey,hopingtorecognizeinthoseghastlyfacesenemies



ofrank;white-robedwomenonthestrand,theirlittleonesclingingtotheirknees,reacharmsofhelplessanguishtowardthesmittengalleyoftheirlords,whoareleapingintothewavesforrefugefromtheChristiancannonade.

IwonderedhowtheTurkishMinisterlikedthosetapestries,ashisstooped-backExcellencypassedinconferencewithaChinesemandarin,whomusthavestudiedhiscostumefromateacup.ForwehadallbeenhustledintorowsagaintomakethathumanlanethroughwhichtheRoyaltiesandtheReverendsreturnedfromtheirdevotions.IwasfacingaquaintoldtapestryofChristenthronedinglory,withthebeastsoftheApocalypseclimbingoverHimlikepetkittens,andthissodistractedmyattentionthatIomittedtoasktheamiableInfantaIsabel,whowould,Iamsure,havetoldanybodyanything,whathadtakenplace.ButIreaditallinthe_Epocha_thatevening--howherMajestywithherownaugusthandshadfittedtheredhattotheNuncio'stonsuredhead,andhowthenew-madecardinalhadaddressedherinagratefuloration,praisinghervirtuesasmanifestedin"thedoublecharacterofqueenandmother,anexamplerichinthosepeculiargiftsbywhichyourRoyalGracehaswonthevenerationandloveofthenobleandchivalrousSpanishpeople,theespecialaffectionoftheFatheroftheFaithful,andtherespectandsympathyofalltheworld."ForherandfortheyouthfulmonarchofSpainheinvokedthefavorofHeaven,andutteredaferventhopethatthecup

ofbitternesswhichthismostCatholicnationhadbowedherselftodrinkmightbeblessedtoherinarenewalofstrengthandareconquestofherancientpreëminenceamongthepeoplesoftheearth.

Themostsignificantexpressionof"newSpain"thatIencounteredinMadridwasamassmeeting--arareandnovelfeatureinSpanishpubliclife.Iblundereduponitasfoolishlyasonewellcould.TheseconddayofJulywasthefirstanniversaryofthefoundingofadaringMadridweekly,the_VidaNueva_,towhich,attractedbyitsliteraryvalues,aswellasitspoliticalcourage,Ihadsubscribed.ThesheetisusuallyissuedSunday,butasIwasonthepointofgoingoutoneSaturdayafternoonmy_VidaNueva_arrived,accompaniedbytwonon-committaltickets.Theygaveentrancetothe_FrontónCentral_,

"onlythatandnothingmore."Icalledoneoftheprettyseñoritasofthehouseholdintocouncil,andshesagelydecidedthatthesewereticketsto_pelota_,theBasqueballgame,playedinoneoranotherofthevariousMadridhallsalmosteverysummerafternoon.Itseemedalittletooconsiderateinthe_VidaNueva_toprovidefortherecreationofitssubscribers,butIwasgrowingaccustomedtosurprisesofSpanishcourtesy,andtuckedtheticketsawayinasafecorner.Thefoldednewspaperrustledandwhispered,andfinallyflutteredtomyfeet,butIwaseagertobeoff,and,aftertheblindfashionofmortals,putitby.

Itwasmyprivilegetodinethatdaywithtwocompatriots,andoneofthese,whoknowsandlovesSpainbetterthanmanySpaniardsdo,began

atoncetotellmeofthatmostunusualoccurrence,aMadridmassmeeting,totakeplacethisveryevening.Ofcourseweresolvedtogo,althoughmyfriend'shusbandwasnotinthecity,andnootherescortwouldcountenancesoharebrainedanexpedition.Forthestreettowhichthisvaliantladyledthewaywaschokedwithafloodofmensurgingtowardanopendoor.Thehallforthe"meeting,"awordwhichtheSpanishlanguagehasfullyadopted,wasthe_FrontónCentral_,andadmissionwasbyticket.Lightdawnedonmydimwits,and,whilemytwocompanions,withdignifiedandtranquilmien,stoodthemselvesupagainsttheouterwall,Ibesoughtaleisurelycabman,whoinsistedon



waitingtopickupalittleragamuffinclamoringforaride,todrivemeinhothastetomydomicile.HereIsearchedoutthetickets,putawayonlytoocarefully,andtookafleetingglanceatthe_VidaNueva_,whichurgedall"menofheart"tocelebratetheeveofitsanniversarybytheirpresenceatthismassmeeting.

IhadnotrealizedthatthereweresomanymenofheartinMadrid.Thestreetonmyreturnwasworsethanbefore.Thecabmanobjectedstrenuouslytoleavingusinthesetempestuoussurroundings,and,sincetherewereonlytwotickets,wetwoeldersofthetrioagreedthattheAmericangirlwasalltooyoungforsuchanescapade,andforthwithdespatchedher,underhisfatherlycare,tothehotel.Thencamethetugofwar.Wesawmenfightingfiercelyaboutthedoor,weheardtheloudbandyingofangrywords,wewerewarnedagainandagainthatwecouldnevergetthroughthejam,weweretoldthat,ticketsornotickets,ladieswouldnot,couldnot,andshouldnotbeadmitted;itwasdarklyhintedthat,beforetheeveningwasover,therewouldbewildandbloodyworkwithinthosewalls.Butwenoticedafewotherwomeninthethrong,anddecided,frommomenttomoment,towaitalittlelonger,andseewhathappenednext.Meanwhile,wewerealmostunjostledinthemidstofthatexcited,strugglingcrowd,oftencatchingthewords:"Standbackthere!Don'tpressontheladies!Leaveroom!"Andwhenitcametothefinaldashwehadwell-nighaclearpassage.Ourticketsgaveaccessonlytothefloorofabig,

oblonghall,closelypackedwithastandingmassofsometenthousandmen;butadebonairpersonageinauthorityconductedus,withmorechivalrythanjustice,tothereservedboxesinthegallery,whereweoccupiedperfectseats,--forwhichotherpeopleprobablyheldtickets,--inthefrontrow,overlookingallthehouse.

[Illustration:MARIASANTISIMA]

SomuchforSpanishindulgencetoaudaciouswomenfolk.Butastothemeetingitself,whatwasitallabout?InSpainonewordsufficesforananswer._Montjuich_hasbecomeaLiberalrallyingcry,althoughthemovementisnotboundinbypartylines.ItistheDreyfus_affaire_ inaSpanishedition.The_CastellodeMontjuich_isastrong

fortress,withlargemagazinesandquartersfortenthousandsoldiers.Itisbuiltonacommandingheight,theoldMountainoftheJews,justoutsideBarcelona,andhasagainandagainsufferedbombardmentandstorm.ButinthislatestassaultonMontjuichtheweaponsarewordsthatburnandpenskeenerthanswords.ItwasontheseventhofJune,1896,thatthefamousbombwasexplodedinBarcelona.ItwastakenforanAnarchistoutrage,andovertwohundredmen,includingteachers,writers,andlaborleaders,werearrestedonsuspicion.Nearlytwomonthspassed,and,despitetheofferoftemptingrewards,notraceoftheculpritshadbeenfound.IntheFortressofMontjuichtheguardsdeputedtowatchtheprisoners,actingmoreorlessundersuperiorauthority,whichitselfmayhavebeeninfluencedbyJesuitsuggestion,beganonthefourthofAugusttoinflicttorturesupontheaccusedfor

thepurposeofextractingevidence.Thetrialswerebymilitaryprocedure,powersatintheseatofjustice,andinnocentmen,itisbelieved,werecondemnedonthestrengthofthoseforcedconfessions--mereassents,wrungfromthembybodilyagony,towhatevertheirguardsmightdictate.Butmanypersistedindenial,andincourseoftimeanumberwerereleased,maimed,incertaincases,forlife.Otherswereshot,andascorestilllayinprison.Thefortressdungeonsaredeepanddark,butlittlebylittlethecriesandgroansofthe"martyrsofMontjuich"penetratedthedullstoneandsoundedthroughoutSpain.



OnthefourteenthofMay,lastyear,the_VidaNueva_,thisboldyoungperiodicalinthevanoftheLiberalcause,broughtoutanillustratednumberdevotedto"TheTormentsofMontjuich."OtherperiodicalssprangtoitssupportandkepttheGovernmentbusywithdenunciations,whiletheyvehementlycalledforarevisionofthejudicialprocess,withthehopeofreleasingthemenstillundersentenceandclearingthenamesofthosewhohadperished.Massmeetingstourgesuchrevision,whichcouldbeaccordedonlybyvoteoftheCortes,wereheldinBarcelona,Saragossa,Valencia,Santander,andotherprincipalcities,alldemandingrevisioninthesacrednamesofpatriotism,humanity,andjustice.

OurMadridmassmeetingwasofchiefconsequenceinimpressingtheGovernmentwiththeweightofpopularopinion.TheswayingmultitudewascalledtoorderatquarteroftenbySeñorCanalejas,whointroducedanotablearrayofspeakers.Therewererepresentativesoflabor,ofrepublicanism,ofthepress,aCatalanchargedwithagreetingfromBarcelona,thechampionofSpanishSocialism,PabloIglesiasbyname,andgreatmenofthenation,Azcárate,Moret,andSalmeron.Spanisheloquenceatitsbestthrillsthebloodtowine,andtheswiftsuccessionoforators,fourteenalltold,playedonthevastaudiencelikemasterartistsonamurmurousorgan.Yettherewasnodisorder.AgenerousandgratefulhearingwasaccordedtheCountof

LasAlmenas,whofranklydeclaredhimselfaconservativeinpoliticsandanapostolicRomanCatholicinreligion,butinthenameofboththesecreedsaloverofjusticeandhumanity.SincefortheseheeverheldhimselfreadytodobattleintheCortes,hegavethemeetinghispledgethathewouldsupportAzcárateinthemotionforrevision.

ButthewrathandgriefoftheaudiencecouldhardlybecontrolledwhenoneofthereleasedprisonerstooktheplatformtorecountthehorrorsofMontjuich.Hetoldofdungeonswithearthfloorandonegratedwindow,ofsavageguardsdeterminedtogainthecrossesandpensionspromisedtothosewhoshouldextractevidence.Hetoldhowthehelplesscaptives,weakenedbyconfinement,weretorturedwithcords,whips,sleeplessness,hunger,andthirst.Boundastheywere,

waterwasheldbeforetheirparchedmouths,withthesinisterwords,"Confesswhatwebidyou,andyoushalldrink."Whenthefamishedmenbeggedforfood,theywereansweredwiththelash,or,morefiendishly,withshredsofsaltcodfish,whichincreasedtheirthirstahundredfold.Onemaninhisdesperationsprangtothelampandquaffedthedirtyoil.Theylickedthemoisturefromtheirdungeonwalls.Theythrustwhitetonguesthroughthegratingtocatchthedropsofrain.Soontheguardsproceededtomoreviolenttorments,wrenching,burning,andprobingthequiveringfleshwithadevilishingenuityoftorture,makingaderisivesportoftheiratrociouswork.Oneofthevictimswentmadwhileundergoingtorturebycompressionofthehead.Others,onhearingthecomingstepsoftheguards,strovetoescapetheircruelhandsbysuicide.Onedrankabowlofdisinfectant

foundinhiscell,onebeathisforeheadagainstthewall,onestrovetodrivearustednailintohisheart.

Itwasafrightfultaletohear.IlookedacrossthehalltowhereaSpanishflagwashung.Yellowwaxisfuneralwax,andAlarcón,whoseesinyellowasymbolofdeathandofdecay,lamentsthatitisthecolorofhalftheSpanishbanner."_Aydelabanderaespañola!_"ButsurelythereishopeforSpain,whileshehassonswho,ingraspofamilitarytyrannywhichhasrenderedsuchcrimespossible,contendinopenfieldfortheoverthrowofthe"blackSpain"oftheInquisition,



andstillbearheartofhopeforawhite,regeneratedSpain,wherereligionshallincludetheloveofman.

XV

THEPATRONSAINTOFMADRID

"Labré,cultivé,cogíConpiedad,confe,concelo,Tierras,virtudesycielo."

Spainseemsactuallyskiedoverwiththewingsofguardianangels.Thetraditionaltutelarofthenation,Santiago,countsforless,especiallyinthesouthandcentreofthePeninsula,thanmightbeexpected,andwaslongsinceofficiallysupersededbytheVirgin;butcities,hamlets,families,individuals,allhavetheirprotectingsaints.Somearemartyrs,somebishops,someapostles,whileCordovarestssecurebeneaththeshiningplumesoftheangelRaphael.Townsandtownletsholdfestivalsfortheircelestialpatrons,honoringthemwithfairs,horse-races,processions,dances,andwhatsoeverelsemay

beappropriatetotheseasonandcharacteristicofthelocality,asballgames,bull-fights,orevenamiracleplay.OnlySeville,mirth-lovingSeville,whomakesholidayontheslightestprovocation,canneverinvitehertwobeautifulguardians,SantaJustaandSantaRufina,toajubilee.TheseholymaidensusedtokeepapotteryboothinTriana,nowthegypsyquarterofthecity,where,refusingtoworshiptheRomanVenus,theywonthecrownofmartyrdom.Buttheirindustrioushabitsclingtothemstill,and,bynightandbyday,whilethecenturiespass,theyupholdtheGiralda.Ananointedvision,likeMurillo's,mayseetheirgracefulformshoveringinmid-aironeithersideofthefamoustower,whichtheirstrongbrownarmsholdfirmevenintempests.Iftheladiesshouldletgo,theGiraldawouldfall,andsotheSevilliansaredriventotheungallantcourseof

ignoringthesereallyusefulpatronsandgaddingofftoadjacenttownswhosesaintsareatleisuretobeentertained.

[Illustration:ASPANISHMONK]

BytheeternalcontradictionthatprevailsinallthingsSpanish,ithascometopassthatMadrid,theelegantcapitalandroyalresidence,isundertheguardianshipofapeasantsaint.Here,intheeleventhcentury,Isidrowasborn,saythepriests,ofpoorbutCatholicparents.Ifnotpreciselyahewerofwoodandadrawerofwater,hewasnextdoortothathumbleestate,beingadiggerofwellsandcellars.HedugwithsuchpietythatGodaidedhimbymiracles,causingtroublesomerockstomeltlikewaxatthetouchofhisspade,

andspringsofhealingwatertoleapinthepitsofhisfashioning.Hewasatilleroftheground,besides,ahirelingfarmservant,whoseagriculturalmethods,thoughseeminglyirregular,causedhismaster'sgranariestooverflow.Ashewenttothefieldsinthefreshspringmornings,theyoungIsidrowouldscatterhandfulsofseedforthebirds,saying,"Eat,God'slittlebirds,forwhenourLordlooksforthindawn,Helooksuponusall."Andashedroppedthewheatandbarleyinthefurrows,everhemurmured,"ThisforGod,andthisforus;thisforthebirds,andthisfortheants.""Fortheants,too?"mockinglyaskedtherusticswhoplantedbesidehim,butIsidrosteadfastly



replied,"Fortheants,too,sincetheyareGod'sants,andHisroyalbountyisforallHishousehold."NowonderthattheAlmightyhadIsidro'sfieldsinspecialcharge,sendingsunandrainindueseasonthattheharvestmightsufficeforeveryclaimant.Suchdivinecarewasthemorenecessary,becausethisdreamyplough-boyspentmostofhistimeinthechurches,oronhiskneesintheshadowofthefruittrees,untilhisprofanecompanionscalledhimLazybones.

IsidrowasnoeffectivepatronofMadridasyet,butranawayfromtheMoors,whentheyinvadedthecity,findingfarmserviceinaneighboringvillage.Herehemarriedamaidenwhoselovelysoul,accordingtoLopedeVega,shonethroughherguilelessfacelikeapaintingthroughitsglass.Shewasnolessdevoutthanherhusband,andwenteveryeveningtotrimthealtarinalonelyshrineoftheVirgin.Therewasastreamtobecrossedontheway,andintimesoffreshetOurLadywouldappearinpersonandleadherbythehandoverthetopsofthewaves.Suchdaintysteppingasitmusthavebeen!Andonce,whenIsidroaccompaniedhiswife,theybothcrossedinaboatsuddenlyimprovisedfromhermantilla,whichwasnotathreadtheworsefortheexperience.

Themiracle-workingpowerthatdevelopedinSanIsidrowasfirstexercised,asbecameafarmer,onsufferingbeastsandbadweather.Hisearlyinfluenceoverwatergrewmoreandmorepronounced,rain

refreshingthethirstyfieldsathisbidding,andmedicinalfountainsgushingfromrocksatthestrokeofhishoe.Andwhen,onesunshinymorning,hiswifelettheirbabyboyslipfromherarmsintothedepthsofthewellandranindistresstoherhusband,thesaint,whoforoncewasworkingonthefarm,didnotscoldher,asthepriestlyauthorsseemtothinkwouldhavebeenthenaturalcourse,butcalmlysaid,"Mysister,whatistheretocryabout?"Andwhen,afteraseasonofprayer,theseexemplaryparentsproceededtothewell,itswatershadrisentothebrink,liftingthelittleJohn,asonasilver-tissuecushion,safetotheirembrace.Isidrostillretainedhisyouthfulpeculiaritiesasalaborer,oftenprayingalldaylonginthechurches,whilehisyokeofoxendidtheploughingjustaswellwithouthim.Ononeoccasion,whenhearrivedtoolateformass,the

gatesofheavenopenedtohisvision,ashekneltbeforetheclosedchurchdoor,andhewaspermittedtowitnessacelestialmass,whereChristwasbothpriestandwafer,withchoirsofangelschantingtheholyservice.Evenhischaritiescosthimlittle,forwhenthe_olla_ ofvegetablesandfish,thathiswifemadeeverySaturdayforthepoor,hadallbeeneaten,awordfromIsidrowasenoughtoreplenishthepot.Ifheemptiedhissackofcornonthesnowforaflockofhungrypigeons,thesackwasfullwhenhereachedthemill;andwhenhethreshedhismaster'swheatasecondandathirdtimeforthebeggars,theverychaffturnedintogoldengrain.

Hisbestquality,whichalmostmakeshiscultdesirableinSpain,continuedtobehisloveforanimals,especiallyforbirds.Thesesang

theirsweetestsongsashepassedby,andoftenflewdownfromthepoplarbranchestobrushtheirlittlewingsagainsthisblouse.Andhe,whohadraisedhismaster'sdaughterfromthedead,didnotdisdaintoworkmiraclesofhealingandoflifeonmaltreatedhorses.Madridwoulddowelltogiveherguardiansaintaseasontickettothebull-ring.Eventhedespisedandcudgelledasshadashareinhisprotection.AsacrilegiouswolfthatthoughttomakeamealofIsidro'sdonkey,lefttograzeoutsideachurchwherethesainthadgonetopray,wasstruckdead--perhapsbythedonkey'sheels.Thiskindlyrustic,whohadseparatedfromhiswifeforgreatersanctity,



diedonSt.Andrew'sDayandwasburiedinthecemeteryofSt.Andrew'sChurchinMadrid.Suchsepulturewasnottohisliking,andtwicehisghostappearedtoaskthatthebodymightberemovedtothechurch,aswaspresentlydone,allthebellsofSt.Andrew'sringingoftheirownaccordtogiveitwelcome.Thetombimmediatelybegantoworkmiracles,andIsidrobecamesuchafavoritewiththepeoplethatwhen,in1212,ashepherdguidedAlfonsoVIII,lostwithhisvanguardinthewildpassesoftheSierraMorena,tothegreatbattleofLasNavasdeTolosa,wherethearmiesoftheHolyCrossbrokeforeverthedominionoftheMoorsinCentralSpain,nothingwoulddobutthestorythatthisshepherdwasIsidrohimself.Abovethetombofthesaintachapelwaserected,perhapsbyAlfonso,perhapsby_IsabellaCatólica_.Thereseemstobeaconflictofauthoritieshere,butalltestimoniesagreethattheangelsusedtocomedownandsinginthechapelSaturdayafternoons.

MadridformallyacceptedIsidroaspatroninthesummerof1232,whenthelaborsofthehusbandmen,onthepointofperishingfromdrought,weresavedbythebodyoftheHolyPeasant,which,borneinpriestlyprocession,calleddownfloodsofrain;butitwasnotuntilthetimesofPhilipIII,somefourcenturieslater,thattheactualcanonizationofIsidrowasgrantedbyRome.OnMay15,1620,the_PlazaMayor_,thathandsomesquarewhichhasbeenthetheatreofsomanytournaments,executions,and_autosdefe_,thescene,twoyears

later,ofthebeatificationofLoyola,wasinauguratedbyasplendidfestivalinhonorofSanIsidro.Fromthatdaytothishisworshiphasnotwaned.Themiracle-workingbones,whichwerecarriedtothebitterdeath-bedofPhilipIII,andcomfortedthepassingofthegreatandgenerousspiritofCharlesIII,arestillheldtobemorepotentthanphysicians.Churches,oratories,andchapelshavebeenbuilttohimalloverthePeninsula,theFranciscanFriarsfoundedaconventofSanIsidroinRome,andhisnameisapartofournewgeographylessonintheAntillesandthePhilippines.OnlyfouryearsagohisurnwasborneinpenitentialprocessionthroughMadrid,withdoublesupplicationsforrainontheparchedcountry,andforaswiftandhappyendingoftheCubanwar.Allpriestly,military,civic,andgovernmentalpompwenttomakeupthatstatelyescort,theladiesof

Madridshoweringthetrainasitpassedbeneaththeirbalconieswithflowers,poems,and_confetti_.Thesaintdidwhathecould.Theprocessionhadbeensoskilfullytimedthattherainsbeganthatverynight,buttheCubanwarwasamatteroutofhisprovince.Hisdealingshadalwaysbeenwithwater,notwithblood.

ThereissignificanceinthisdevotionofproudCastiletoSanIsidro.SpainisessentiallyasdemocraticasAmerica.Herproverbstellthestory:"Manyamangetstoheavenintowbreeches;""Dowhatyourmasterbidsyou,andsitdownwithhimattable;""Nobodyisbornlearned,andevenbishopsaremadeofmen;""SinceIamamanImaycometobePope;""ThecorpseofthePopetakesnomoregroundthanthatofthesacristan;""Everymanisthesonofhisownworks."

"Saidtheleaftotheflower:'Ofie!Youputonairsindeed!Butwesprang,bothyouandI,Fromtheselfsamelittlebrownseed.'"

Pedler,porter,beggartreatyouassocialequalsandexpectafullreturnofcourtesy.ItistoldinMadridhowagreatdiplomaticpersonagenotlongagowaseatinghispicnicluncheoninahiredcarriage.Thedriver,lunchingalso,leanedbackfromhisseat,



clinkedglasses,anddrankthegentleman'shealth.Thedignitaryglaredwithastonishmentandwrath."Man!IamtheImperialAmbassadorofNationSo-and-So.""Whatofit?"returnedthedriver,takinganotherbiteofhispepperySpanishsausage;"IamtheHeadHostlerofStablesSuch-and-Such."

Againandagain,inrecenttimesasinancient,havetherankandfileoftheSpanishnationassertedtheirdignityofmanhood.AnedictofCharlesIII,forbiddingtheMadrileñostomufflethemselvesintheirbelovedlongcloaksandhidetheirfacesundertheirbigslouchhats,raisedafuriousriotinthecapital.Shouldakingdictatethefashionofaman'sgarments?AndwhenthestupidweaknessofCharlesIVandthebasenessofhissonFernandohaddeliveredSpainovertoNapoleon,whenFrencharmiesheldherfortresses,andMurat,withtwenty-fivethousandtroops,ruledMadridbylogicofsteelandiron,itwastheSpanishpeoplewho,fromAsturiastoAndalusia,sprangtothedefenceofacountryabandonedbyprinces,councils,andgrandees.TheSpanishpeople,nottheSpanishnobles,preservedtheindependenceofthenationandactuallybrokethecareeroftheCorsicanconqueror.TheItalianking,Amadeo,somuchbetterthanhisfortunes,waswelcomedatValenciain1871withsimpleverses,spokenbyachild,thatbreatheevenfromtheiropeningstanzathisnativespiritofdemocracy:--

"TheHighLordoftheHeavensCreatedmenoneday,Allmortalandallequal,Allshapenoutofclay;ForGodreckednotofnations,Ofwhiteandblackandbrown,ButonHishumanchildrenImpartiallylookeddown."

ItisnotthensostrangeasitappearsatfirsthearingthataPiersPlowmanshouldbepatronofMadrid.

FromAlfonsoVIIItoAlfonsoXIII,amatterofsomesevencenturies,

Isidrohasbeeninhighreputewithroyalty.The"CatholicKings"madehimrichgifts;PhilipII,bigotofbigots,cherishedanespecialvenerationfortheghostlyprotectorwhohadbroughthisdelicatechildhoodsafelythroughsmallpoxandepilepticseizures;thepassion-wastedPhilipIVdidhimpublichomage;CharlestheBewitchedmadeasolemnprogresstohisshrinetothankhimforrecoveryfromillness;eventhebrightyoungBourbon,PhilipV,hadscarcelyarrivedinMadridbeforehehastenedtoworshiptheefficaciousbodyofSanIsidro.TheurnhasbeenopenedatintervalstogivetheirsuccessiveMajestiesofSpainthegrewsomejoyofgazingonthebones,andithasbeenthepeculiarprivilegeofSpanishqueens,onsuchoccasions,torenewthecostlycerements.Thedevotionofthepresentregenttotheserelicskeepspacewiththatofherpredecessors.

Whereroyaltyleads,aristocracyisswifttofollow,andIsidrohasagorgeouswardrobeofembroideredstandards,palls,canopies,burialcloths,andeverythingthataskeletoncouldrequire,but"fora'thatanda'that"thelaboringpeopleofCastileneverforgetthattheCanonizedFarmerespeciallybelongstothem.Hisfortnight-long _fiesta_istheMayoutingoftherusticpopulationallaboutMadrid.

Wewillstartonthispilgrimagefromthe_PuertadelSol_,becauseeverythinginMadridstartsfromthe_PuertadelSol_.Fromthisgreat



openparallelograminthecentreofthecity,surroundedbyloftyhotelsandGovernmentbuildings,borderedwithshopsandcafés,brightenedwithfountains,throngedwithtrams,carriages,people,alwayshummingwithvoices,alwayssurgingwithmovement,runtenoftheprincipalstreetsofthecapital.The_Alcalá_,mostfashionableofpromenades,and_SanJerónimo_,belovedofwealthyshoppers,conducttothenoblereachesofparksand_paseos_intheeast;thehandsome_Arenal_andhistoric_CalleMayor_leadwesttotheroyalpalace,withitsextensivegardensknownasthe_CampodelMoro_; _Montera_,withtwolesselegantavenues,pointstothenorth,whereonemayfindtheuniversity,theProtestantchurches,andthetragicsiteofthe_Quemadero_;andthreecorrespondingstreetsopenthewaytothesouth,withitsfactories,hospitals,oldchurches,andworld-famed_Rastro_,orragfair.

[Illustration:ASEVILLESTREET]

Butduringtheearlydaysofthe_Romeria_,whichbeginsonMay15,allthethrobbingtideoflifepourstowardthesouthwest,forthegoalofthepilgrimage,theHermitageofSanIsidro,builtoveroneofhismiraculouswellsbytheempressofCharlesI,ingratitudeforacureexperiencedbyheraugusthusbandafterdrinkingofthewaters,standsonthefartherbankoftheManzanares.Thetrams,literallyheapedwithclinginghumanity,passoutbythe_CalleMayor_andcross

the_PlazaMayor_.Theinnumerable'busesandcabsmakeashortercut,butallvarietiesofvehiclearesoonwedgedtogetherinthebroadthoroughfareofToledo.HerewepassthebiggranitechurchofSanIsidroelReal,onceinpossessionoftheJesuits,butontheirexpulsionfromSpain,in1767,consecratedtotheSantoLabrador.Hisbodywasbornethither,withallsolemnceremonial,fromthechapelinSt.Andrew's;andhispoorwife,whohadalsobeensainted,byacourteousSpanishafterthought,undertheattractivetitleof_MariadelaCabeza_,MaryoftheHead,wasallowedtolayhercelebratedskullbeneaththesameroof,--agreaterlibertythanhehadpermittedherduringthelatterhalfoftheirearthlylives.TheMadridCathedral,hardbytheroyalpalace,isstillinslowprocessofbuilding,theworkbeinghamperedanddelayedforlackoffunds,

althoughherMajestysetsadevoutexamplebycontributing$300amonth.Meanwhile,SanIsidroelRealservesasthecathedralchurchofthediocese.

This_CalledeToledo_,whereIsidrodugseveralofhismedicinalwells,isalwaysgaywitharcadesandboothsanddrapers'shops;butnow,duringthe_Romeria_,itisaveritablecurbstonemarket,whereoranges,sashes,brooms,mantles,pictureframes,saucepans,fiddles,mantillas,china,jackets,umbrellas,fans,dolls,bird-cages,paintingsofsaints,andphotographsofballetdancersareallcriedandexhibited,hawkedandheldundernose,inonecontinuoustumult.

AsweapproachthebaremassofmasonryknownastheGateofToledo,

wecast,forallourfestivalmood,acloudedglanceinthedirectionofthebarbarousslaughter-housesofMadrid.Herethestrongerbeastsareblindedbythethrustofdarts,andalsohamstrung,torenderthemhelplessunderthedeliberatebutcheryoftheirtormentors,whooftenamusethemselvesbyalittlebull-fightpracticewiththeagonizedcreaturesbeforestrikingthefinalblow--aplaceofsuchatrociouscrueltiesthateventheseasonednervesofanAustriansurgeonrecentlyvisitingitgaveway,andhefaintedashelooked.ThereisworkforSanIsidrohere.



ThejamofequipagesontheBridgeofToledogivesusabundanttimetoobservethestatueoftheHolyPeasant,inastoneniche,liftinghisbabyfromthewell,andthecompanionstatueofMaryoftheSkull.AndthereistheManzanarestolookat,thatsandychannelalongwhichdribbleafewthreadsofwater--threadsthatthewasherwomenofMadridseekafterlikeveinsofsilver.Smallboysarewadingfromonebanktotheother,hardlytroublingthemselvestorolluptheirtrousers.ItissaidthatPhilipIV,surveyinghispompousbridgeacrosstheManzanares,waswickedlyadvisedbyoneofhiscourtierstosellthebridgeorelsebuyariver.ItisacuriousbitofironytoholdthefestivaloftheWaterSaintbesideariverbedalmostasdryashisbones.

Butthecrowdhasnowbecomesomadandmerrythatitdistractsattentionalikefromarchitectureandphysicalgeography.Willallthedexterityoffoot-policeandmountedguardseversucceedindisentanglingthissnarlofequipages?Whocares?Everybodyislaughing.Everybody,too,ishelping,sofaraslungscanhelp.AdaringAragonese,withablueandwhitecheckedhandkerchiefknottedabouthisheadandascarletblanketoverhisshoulders,triestodashacrossthebridgeandrejoinhisscreamingchildren.Hestumblesbeforeajovialomnibus,whosefourhorses,adornedwithberibbonedstrawhats,gazecoylyoutfromunderthetornbrimslikesomanymetamorphosedMaudMullers.Adistantguardroarsawarning.Thecrowd

bellowsinsympathy.Aliveriedcoachmanrearshisspiritedpairofbays.Acock-hattedgypsy,withhalfhistribepackedintohiscart,triestofollowsuit,andtugssavagelyatthestubbornmouthsofmuleswhoseheadsareliberallyfestoonedwithredandgreentassels.InfrontofthesesafelypassestheAragonese,onlytobringupagainstthegreatwheelofapicnicwagon,whoseoccupants,mostlyseñoritasinthesunrisePhilippineshawls,thrustouttheirprettyheads,allcrownedwithflowersinsteadofhats,andraindownsaucysalutations.Thecrowdchimesinwitheveryvarietyofvolubleimpudence.Hecatchesatthelonggoldfringeofthenearestshawl,saveshimselffromfallingatthepriceofashriekofwrathfromtheseñorita,plungesdesperatelyon,isstruckbyacabhorse,thepoorbeastbeinghalfblindedbytheticklingplumesthatdroopovereyes

andnose,andamidvolleysofridiculeandencouragementreelstotheshelterofthesidewalk.Butaveryprecariousshelteritis,sonarrowthattheladsarepositivelyobligedtoflingtheirarmsaboutthelassestoholdtheflutteringskirtsbackfromperilofwheelsandhoofs.Everywherewhataudacity,whatfun,whatcolor,andwhatnoise!Troopsontroopsoffoottravellers,usuallyinfamilygroups,andoftenstainedwiththedustofanall-daytramp!Thewivesgenerallycarrythehampers,andthehusbandssometimesshoulderthebabies.Squadsofyoungfellowsfrolicalong,eachwithhissupplyofprovisionstiedupinagaudyhandkerchief.Thecloserthenudgingthebettertheylikeit;aslapfromagirlishhandisalmostasgoodasakiss.Isidroknewallaboutitinhisday.Butthisclownishjollitygrowsrougherandrougher,andthecrackandstingfromacoachman's

whiptemptareplywiththepilgrim'sstaff.Theguards,hoarseandpurple,wipetheirdrippingbrows.Itisearlyafternoonyet,too,andthelarkingandlicenseareasnothingtowhatmaybeexpectedbeforemidnight.

Itisalittlebetterwhen,atlast,thebridgeisleftbehind.Turningtothenorthwest,thedustyroadrunsonbesidetheriverandbeneaththebluffslinedwithrowdyishfolk,whoshoutdowngreetingstotheiracquaintancesandcomplimentstotheladies,towardthe _ermita_.AcertainJuandeVargas,ridingoverthissamerouteone



day,liftedhiseyestotheuplandstoseehowhisfarm-hand,Isidro,wasgettingonwiththeploughing.BlessedIsidro!Beforeandafterwenttwostalwartyoungangels,stillinshiningwhite,eachdrivingacelestialyokeofoxen.

Timeshavechanged.Thesightthatgreetsoureyesisemphaticallyhuman--agreatcountryfair,apandemoniumofrude,good-naturedrevelry.Thebeggarswhohavebeenchasingthecarriage,thecripplesoutstrippingtherest,thrustwitheredarms,ulcerouslegs,andallmannerofprofitabledeformitiesintoourveryfacesaswealight,evenclutchingatthecoinswithwhichwepaythecoachman.Wemakeourway,asbestwecanintheroughpress,betweentworowsofboothstowardthechurch.ThereistheusualSpanishvarietyofpennytoysonsale--balls,baskets,whips,kites,jumping-jacks,balloons,andeveryotherconceivabletrifleadmittingofthecolorsredandyellow.ButthegreattrafficisinthosearticlesespeciallyconsecratetoSanIsidro--frostedcakes,probablymadeaftertherecipeof_MariadelaCabeza_,clayvesselsofeveryshapeandsizeforcarryingawaythehealingwaters,and,firstandforemost, _pitos_,orwhistles.ThepriestswouldhaveusbelievethatSanIsidrowasforeverdroningpsalms,butploughmenknowaploughman'smusic,andthesacredwhistlesleadthesalesinthe_Romeria_.Itisimpietynottopurchaseatleastoneofthese,andthemoredevoutyouare,themore_pitos_willyoubuy.TheInfantaIsabel,auntofhis

LittleMajesty,fillsheremblazonedcoacheveryyearwiththeseshrillpipesinalltheirvarietyofqueerdisguises--fans,birds,puffinggrotesques,and,aboveall,paperflowers.HeisnoloverworththehavingwhodoesnotbringhissweetheartaSanIsidrorosewitha_pito_forastem.Theear-tortureofanimmensefair-grounddelightinginaninfinityofwhistlesmaybelefttothesympatheticimagination.WeclingtothememoryofBurns,andbearforhisbonnysakewhatwecouldhardlyendureforanysuchshamlaborerasIsidro.

Thehearingisnottheonlysensetodopenanceinthispilgrimage.TheWaterSainthasneverthoughttoworkamiracleofcleanlinessuponhispeasantvotaries,andthesmellthatburstsoutuponusfromtheopeningdoorsofthechurchmightputustoflight,wereflight

stillpossible.But,caughtinthehumancurrent,wearesweptonintothegilded,candle-lighted,foul-airedoratory,withitseffigiesofSantoLabradorandSantaLabradora.Alldaylongtheimperiousringingofthebellattheshortestofintervalshasbeencallingonecompanyofthefaithfulafteranotherupthebarebrownhilltothatunventilatedtemple.Whenthereisnosqueezingroomleftforevenadwarffromthepygmyshow,thedoorsareclosed,thebellissilenced,andtherusticsaremarshalledinrapidprocessionbeforethealtar,wheretheypayapennyeach,receiveacheapprintofSanIsidro,andkissthemysterious,glass-casedrelicwhichabusinesslikeyoungecclesiastictoucheshastilytotheirlips.Thefranksoundofthekissingwithinisaccompaniedbythetootingof_pitos_without.Westandatoneside,lookingatthepriestsandwonderinghowtheir

consciencesareputtogether,buthalfashamedtowatchwithhereticeyesthetearsofjoy,thefervorsofprayer,theecstasiesoffaith,thataretobeseeninmanyofthesesimple,passionatefacesfilingby.Herecomesalittlegirltreadingasifonairandclaspingherpictureofthesainttoherlips,brows,andheartwithsuchabandonofdelightedadorationasonemustgotoSpaintosee.

ReleasedfromtheHermitage,wefillourlungswithsweeterbreath,giveskirtsavigorousshakeinthevainhopethatwemaynotcarryawaytoomanydesertersfromtheinsectretinueofourrecent



associates,andturndowntowardtheriver.Ourshortcutleadsusamongheapsandheapsofbalespackedwiththegracefulclayjars.HowmanyananxiousmotherwilltrudgeherwearymilesacrossthisdryCastiliansteppe,bearingwithallherotherburdensa_botija_ofthehealingwatertosomelittlesuffererathome!Wonderfulwater,warrantedtomakewholethelame,theblind,thedeaf,thedumb,andputtoroutallillsthatfleshisheirto,especiallyfevers,tumors,erysipelas,paralysis,andconsumption!Itisaspotentto-dayaswhenitfirstgushedfromtheearthatthebiddingoftheyoungIsidro,fordiditnotworkanotablecure,aslateas1884,ontheInfantaDoñaPazdeBourbon,sisterofAlphonsoXII?

Welingerafewminutesattheedgeofthebluff,lookingdownupontheanimatedscenebelow,fromwhichrisesthehumasofanexaggeratedbeehive.Thelonggreenstretchofvalleymeadowisonewaveofrestlesscolor.Thicklydottedwithboothsforrefreshment,forsaleoftheSanIsidrowares,forpennyshows,farces,waxfigures,andallmannerofcheapentertainments,itstillhasspacefordancers,wrestlers,_pelota_players,forswings,stilts,andmerry-go-rounds,and,aboveall,forthemultitudeofpromenaders,sleepers,andfeasters.ThebrightMaysunshinegleamsanddazzlesonthesoldiers'helmets,flashesoutallthehuesandtintsofthevariedcostumes,andevenlendsagracetothebrownpatchesonthebrownertents.Thetossingoflimbsinthewild,freedances,the

flutteroftheredandyellowflags,thepicturesquegroupingonthegrassoffamilies,completetodoganddonkey,aroundtheplatterofhomelyfareandtheskinbottleofwine--allthismakesapanoramaonwhichonewouldgladlygazeforhours.

Goingdownintotheheartofthefestivity,theintereststillgrows.Weenteroneofthecleanest_cantinas_andinvesta_peseta_inabottleofsarsaparilla,notforourowndrinking,havingseenthewaterinwhichtheglassesarewashed,butasaprotectionagainstthehordeofbeggarsandthegypsyfortunetellers.Itworkslikeacharm.Aswerespondtothewhiningappealswiththecivilitiesofsocialgreetingandanofferedglassofourinnocentbeverage,theraggedpetitionersarestraightwaytransformedintoladiesandgentlemen.

Theydrawthemselveserect,quaffthecuptoourlonglifeandhappiness,discussinself-respectingtonestheweatherandthefête,andthen,withoutanotherhintofsolicitation,biduscourteousfarewells.WemeantotakeoutapatentonthesarsaparillatreatmentofSpanishmendicancy.

Thetentitselfis,liketherest,shabbyandtumbledown,furnishedwithroughtablesandbenches,wherecadetsareplayingdominosastheydrink,andtwocountrysweetheartsaredelectablyeatingwhatappearstobeasardineomeletteoffthesamecrackedplate.Aclumsylanternhangsoverhead,racksofbottlesarefastenedupalongthecanvaswalls,andallaboutthetrampledearthfloorstandwaterjars,greatbowlsofgreens,andbasketsofthecrustySpanishbread.Apale

youngMadrileñodropsinforaglassofwine,butbeforeindulginghastheshylittlerusticwhoserveshimtakeasip,languidlybeggingher,"Domethefavortosweetenmydrink."Theyellowcigarette-stainsshowonhiswhitefingersashepatsherplumpbarearm.Thechild,forsheisscarcelymore,andasbrownasanacorn,respondstotheseamenitiesbygivingthesmilingexquisitealternatebitesofherhunkofgoat's-milkcheese,whilehermotherkeepsasharpeyeonthemboth.

Comedyandtragedyarebusyallaboutus.Anewlyarrivedfamilyplods



wearilybyinludicrousprocession,headedbyatallfathercarryingababyandclosedbyashortchildcarryingacat.Ashowymanofmiddleage,playingthegallanttoanoverdressedbrunette,issuddenlyconfrontedbyhisfuriouswifeinboy'sattire,sounluckilywelldisguisedthat,beforerecognizingher,hehasrepliedtoherrushofinvectivewithablowwhichbidsfairtomakeoneofhereyes,atleast,blackerthanthoseofherrival.Traditionalballadsaretrolled,popularsongsareechoedfromgrouptogroup,and,despitebadodors,fleas,andwhistles,wearereluctanttoleave.Buttheafternoongrowslate,the_Arganda_and_Valdepeñas_arebeginningtoburninthesouthernblood,anoccasionalflourishofcudgelsoroffistssendsthepolicescurryingacrossthefield,and,beingnothingifnotdiscreet,wepayourpartingrespectstoSanIsidro.

Cominghomebywayofthe_Prado_andpassingtheproudshaftofyellow-browngranitethattowersfaraboveitsenclosingcypresstrees,asgloryabovedeath,weareremindedthatthisgalamonthhasbroughtanother_fiesta_toMadrid.EverysecondofMaythecapitalcommemorateswithsolemnmasses,withstatelycivicprocessions,andamagnificentmilitaryreview,thepatriotswhofellfightinginthestreetsonthatterribleMondayof1808,_ElDosdeMayo_,whichbroughttopassthewarofindependence.OnemayreadofthatfiercecarnageinthevividpagesofGaldósorbeholditintheluridpaintingsofGoya.ToseeonceistoseeforeverthatlineofFrench

soldiery,withsteadymusketatshoulder,butwitheyesbentontheground,whiletheyshootdownsquadaftersquadoftheirdefencelessvictims.Inpoolsofbloodliethecontortedbodies,withheadsandbreastshorriblytornbycrimsonwounds,whileofthosewhowaittheirturntofallbesidethemsomecovertheeyes,onestupidlygnawshishands,onekneelsandwildlypeersfromunderhisshaggyhairintotheverymuzzleofthegunbeforehim,oneflingsbackhisheadwithasavagegrin,halfoffrightandhalfofcourage,onedesperatelystripsbarehisbreastandinagonyofhorrorglaresupontheguns,butthemostarecrouching,shuddering,sinking--andallonlyanitemintheawfulcostthattheSpanishpeoplehavepaidforSpanishliberties.Thecelebrationof1899wasnolessbrilliantthanusual,althoughmanyoftheMadridpapersspokebitterlyoftheshadowthat

thedisastrousfirstofMaymusthenceforthcastonthegloriousSecond.ItisindeedgallandwormwoodtoallSpainthattheManiladefeatsonearlycoincideswiththeproudestdayinSpanishannals.

Thesaintof_ElDosdeMayo_isSaintRevolution,asdemocraticinonewayasSaintAgricultureinanother.WhenthesetwopatronsofMadridunderstandhowtoworkinfellowship,whentherecomesaGovernmentinSpainthatcareschieflytopromotethewelfareofthelaboringpeople,theworldmaydiscoveranewthevitalityandnoblequalityofthislong-sufferingnation.

Wesawthe_Romeria_oncemore,drivingthroughlateintheevening,whentheclosedboothsglimmeredwhiteonthesilentmeadow.

"Yes,itisallapackoflies,"saidathoughtfulCatholic,"butwhatisonetodo?Amancannotbelieveinreligion--andyethowtolivewithoutit?ThemoreIstayawayfrommassthemoreIwantandneedit.ThinkofthecomfortthesepeasantstakewiththeirSanIsidro!"

Themoonlightshonesereneandbeautifulonthosepatched,shabbytents,transformingthemtosilver.



ravagesofthe"criminaltroopofpiratesinthePhilippines."

HediedonThursday,thetwenty-fifthofMay,withinhearingoftheMediterraneanwaveshelovedsowell,withtenderfacesbentoverhim,andthecrucifixathislips.Thenewsofhisdeatharousedthisgrief-wearynationtoafreshoutburstofsorrow.SomelamentedhimasoneofthechieforatorsofmodernEurope,recallinghiseloquenceinthetempestuoustimesoftheRevolution,whenhe"intonedmightyhymnsinpraiseofliberty,democracy,andthesacredFatherland!"Somemournedthepatriot,pointingproudlytothehonorablepovertyinwhichthisholderofmanyoffices,atonetimealmostabsolutedictator,hadlivedanddied.Someweptforthecordial,generous,noble-heartedman,thejoyofhisfriendsandidolofhishousehold.HispoliticalsympathizersbewailedthelossoftheSpanishapostleofdemocracy,thelifelongchampionofliberty.AndmanynotofhisfollowingnorofhisfaithfeltthatatoweringnationalfigurehaddisappearedandanothergloryofSpainvanishedaway.

ThefirstwreathreceivedwasfromaRepublicanclubthatsentthepansiesofmemory.Amongthefivehundredtelegramsandcablegramsthatarrivedwithinafewhoursatthecountry-seatwherehehaddiedwasonefromoverseas,whichread:"ToCastelar:Inthydeathitseemsasifwehadlostthelasttreasurelefttous,thevoiceoftheSpanishrace.InthydeathSpainhasbecomemute.Yetletmebelieve

thatthourespondest,'Shewillspeakagain.'"Thecomingofthebodytothecapitalwasatriumphalprogress.Alargeescortoffriends,whohadmadespeedtoMurciafromallpartsofthePeninsula,accompaniedit,andtherewerecrowdsatthestations,eveninthemid-hoursofthenight,withtears,handfulsofroses,wreaths,andpoemsoffarewell.Therewasoftensomethingverytouchingabouttheseofferings.Atoneofthesmallertownsayounggirlhastilygatheredflowersfromthegardenattachedtothestation,brokeoffasprayfromablossomingtree,tiedthesewiththebrightribbonfromherhair,and,clamberingup,hungthissimplenosegayamongthecostlytributesthatalreadynearlycoveredtheoutersidesofthefuneralcar.Inanothercrowdedstationthevillagepriestcame

hurryingforward,baredhisheadwithdeepestreverencebeforethegarlandedcoach,asifbeforethealtar,andchantedtheprayersforthedead.Again,agroupofworkmen,allowedtoenterthecar,fellontheirkneesbeforethebierandprayed.

ThetrainwasmetonitsarrivalinMadridbyanimmenseconcourseofpeople.SeñorSilvelaandotherdistinguishedrepresentativesoftheGovernmentwerethere,churchdignitaries,presidentsofpoliticalsocietiesandliteraryacademies,but,aboveall,thepeople.Itwasthegreat,surgingmultitudethatgavetheRepublicanleaderhisgrandestwelcome.

ThispoorshellofCastelar,themansaidtobear"thesoulofaDon

QuixoteinthebodyofaSanchoPanza,"layinstatethroughSundayandapartofMondayinthe_PalaciodelCongreso_.Thevestibulehadbeenconvertedintoa_capillaardiente_.Masseswerechantedceaselesslyatthetwocandle-ladenaltars,theperfumefromtheeverincreasingheapsofflowerswassooppressivethattheguardshadtoberelievedatshortintervals,andtheprocessionofpeoplethatfiledrapidlypastthebier,oftenweepingastheywent,reachedoutfromtheMoroccolionsofthedoorwaytothe_Prado_andtheFountainofNeptune.Manyofthehumblestclad,waitinghalfthedayinline,heldpinksorlilies,fastwitheringinthesun,todropatthefeet



ofthepeople'sfriend.EarlyonMondayafternoonthedoorswereclosed,andbyhalf-pastthreethefuneralcortègebegantoforminthe_Prado_foritsfour-hourmarchbywayofthe_CalledeAlcalá_, _PuertadelSol_,_CalleMayor_,and_CuestadelaVega_,tothecemeteryofSanIsidro.

BytheneverfailingSpanishcourtesy,Iwasinvitedtoseetheprocessionfromthebalconyofaprivatehouseinthe_Alcalá_.Ifoundmyhostess,avivaciouslittleoldlady,whosedaughterhadcrownedherwithgloryandhonorbymarryingintothenobility,muchperturbedoverthefailureoftheQueenRegenttoshowsympathywiththepopulargrief.

"Therewereonehundredandforty-ninewreathssentin.Theverynumbershowsthattheroyalwreathwaslacking.IamaConservative,ofcourse.Canovaswasmyfriend,andhasdinedhereoftenandoften.Youseehisportraittherebesidethatofmydaughter,_laMarquesa_.ButCanovaslovedCastelar,andwouldnot,likeSilvela,havegrudgedhimthemilitaryhonorsofanationalfuneral.AsifthedeadwereRepublicans!ThedeadareSpaniards,andCastelarisagreatSpaniard,asthistremendousthrongofpeopleproves.TherewerenotnearlysomanyforCanovas,thoughthearistocracymadeanelegantdisplay;therewerenotsomanyforAlfonsoXII,thoughallthatCourtandStateandarmycoulddowasdone,andtheQueenrodeinthesplendid

ebonycoachinwhichJuanatheMadusedtocarryaboutthebodyofthathandsomehusbandofhers.

"Butthepeopleknowtheirlosses.NeverinmylifehaveIseenthe _Alcalá_sofullasthis.Silvelahashadtogiveway,andthetroopswillcome--atleastafewofthem.Butnotaword,notaflower,fromtheQueen!ShesentamagnificentwreathforCanovas,andabeautifullettertohiswidow.ButforCastelar,herpeople'shero,nothing.Ah,sheisnot_simpática_.Shedoesnotknowheropportunities.Shedoesnotunderstandtheartofwinninglove.OnlyayearagoshesentawreathtothefuneralofFrascuelo,the_torero_.Andeverybodyknowshowshehatesthebull-fight.Butifshecoulddropherprejudicesthentobeatonewiththefeelingofhercapital,whynotnow?They

sayshehasaneuralgicheadacheto-day._Ay,Diosmio!_Ishouldthinkshemight."

Listeningtothisfrankchatterandwatchingthatmightymultitude,IwasremindedofoneoftheAndalusian_coplas_:--

"TheRepublicisdeadandgone;Buryheroutoftherain.Butsee!Thereisnevera_Panteón_ Canholdthefuneraltrain."

Andthis,inturn,suggestedanotherofthosepopularrefrains:--

"ThemoonisaRepublican,Andthesunwithopeneye;TheearthsheisRepublican,AndRepublicanamI."

ButwhocanunderstandthiseverbafflingSpain?Afterall,whatwasthesignificanceofthatassembledhost?Howfarwasitdrawnbydevotiontotheman,andhowfarbydevotiontotheideaforwhichhestood?Howfarbyidlecuriosity,bytheSpanishpassionforpompsandshows,and,aboveall,foracrowd,bythatstrangeSpanishdelight



in_muchagente_?Sofaraseyecouldtell,thismighthavebeenthemerriestoffêtes.Thewidestreetwasaseaofrestlesscolor.Uniforms,liveries,parasols,hats,frocks,pinafores,kerchiefs,blouses,sashes,fans,fleckedthesunshinewithathousandhues.Hereloiteredamessengerboyinvividscarlet;therepassedawaiterwithasilvertraygleamingonhishead;hereamarketwomanbentbeneathherburdenofrussetsacksburstingwithgreens;therestoodapriestinshovelhatandcassock,smellingagreatredrose;hereagallantinvioletcapeescortedaladyflaminginsaffron;thereabeamingoldpeasant,withanazurescarftiedoverhiswhitehead,threwanorangetoattracttheattentionofaploddingporter,whoseforeheadwasprotectedfromthecordsbindingtheboxestohisbackbyseveralfoldsofpurplishcarpeting.

Streetsandsidewalks,balconiesandwindows,allwerefull,andeverywheresucheagerness,suchanimation,andsuchstir!Thechildrensittingonthecurbstonerockedtheirlittlebodiesbackandforthinexcitement.Youngmothersdancedtheircryinginfants,andyoungfathersshiftedthebabiesofasizeortwolargerfromoneshouldertotheother.Aboyinaredcapclimbedasmalllocusttree,fromwhosefoliagehisheadpeepedoutlikeanovergrowncherry.Thecrowdindignantlycalledtheattentionofauthoritytothisviolationofthecitylaws.AglitteringmemberoftheCivilGuardsonorouslyorderedtheculpritdown.Thelaughingladrefusedtobudge,invitingthis

embarrassedarmofthelawtoreachupandgethim.TheGuarddarklysurveyedtheslenderstemalreadyswayingwiththeboy'sslightweight.Theficklecrowd,whoseeveryfaceseemedtobeupturnedtowardthatdefiantcherry,cheeredtherebelandtossedhimcigarettesandmatches,wherewithheproceededtoenjoyasmoke.TheGuardcaughtafewcigarettesinmid-career,pocketedthem,smiledbenevolently,andwalkedaway.Theladsaucilysaluted,andthemultitude,suddenlyimpartial,peltedthembothwithpeanuts.

ThusitwasthattheMadridpopulaceawaitedthelastcomingofCastelar.Evenwhenthefuneraltrainwaspassing,thecrowdshowedscantrespect.Nothalfthemenuncoveredforthebier,althoughIwasgladtoseethecherrycapwhiskedoff.Andonepicturesquegentleman

stoodthroughoutwithhisbacktotheprocession,makingeyesathisnoviainthegalleryaboveourown.

TheGovernment,whichhadfinallyassumedthechargesandcareoftheobsequies,hadbeenremissinnotprovidinglinesofsoldierstoholdanopenwayforthecortège.Asitwas,theprocessioncouldhardlystrugglethroughthemassofhumanitythatchokedthestreet.Asolitaryrider,mounted,likeDeath,onawhitehorse,wentinadvance,threateningthepeoplewithhissword.AdivisionoftheCivilGuardfollowed,erectandmagnificentasever,theirgoldbandsglitteringacrosstheirbreasts,buttheirutmosteffortscouldnoteffectuallybeatbackthecrowd.Menscoffedatthedrawnbladesandpushedagainstthehorseswithbothhands.Theempty"coachof

respect,"blackasnight,itssablehorsestossinghighwhiteplumes,pressedafter,andthencamesomehalfdozencarriagesoverflowingwithwreathsandpalms,andallthatwealthoffloralgifts.Thecrowdcaughtatthefloatingpurpleribbons,andcalledaloudthenamesuponthecards;amonsterdesign,withvelvetcanopy,fromthewell-knowndaily,_ElLiberal_,abeautifulcrownfromthewidowofCanovas,and,laterintheprocession,aloneuponthecoffin,anosegayofrosesandlilies,broughtinthemorningbyachildoffour,alittle"daughterofthepeople,"andbearingtheroughlywrittenwords,"GlorytoCastelar!--Aworkingman."



largeCatholicburialgrounds,andthe_CementérioInglés_.

"Butmurderers,atheists,andProtestantsareburiedwayoffintheeast,"saidtheprettySpanishgirlbesideme.

"Oh,let'sgothere!"Iresponded,withhereticenthusiasm;butIhadreckonedwithoutthecabman,whopromptlyandemphaticallyprotested.

"That'snotapleasantplaceforladiestosee.Youwouldbetterdriveinthe_Prado_and_Recoletos_,orinthe_BuenRetiro_."

Wetoldhimlaughinglythathewasspeakingagainsthisowninterests,fortheCivilCemeterywasmuchfartheroffthantheparks.Heconsultedhisdignityanddecidedtolaughinreturn.

"Itisnotofthe_pesetas_IthinkfirstwhenIamdrivingladies.But"(withsuaveindulgence)"youshallgojustwhereyoulike."

Soinkindnesshegathereduphisreinsandawayweclatteredsheeracrossthecity.Presentlywehadleftthefountain-cooledsquaresandanimatedstreetsbehind,hadpassedeventheugly,sinister_PlazadeToros_,andoutstrippedthetrolleytrack;butstilltheroadstretchedon,enlivenedonlybyherdsofgoatsandanoccasional _venta_,wheredriversofmuletrainswerepausingtowettheirdusty

throats.Wemetfewvehiclesnowsavethegay-coloredhearses,andfewpeopleexceptgroupsofreturningmourners,walkinginbewilderedwise,withstumblingfeet.

"TheCemeteryofthePoorisoppositetheCivilCemetery,"saidourcabman,"andtheyhavefromthirtytofiftyburialsaday.Thekeeperisafriendofmine.Heshallshowyouallabout."

AbareCastilianridgerosebeforeus,whereafarmer,leaningonhisscythe,wasoutlinedagainsttheskylikeasilhouetteofDeath.Andatlastourcheerydriver,hummingbarsfromapopularlightopera,checkedhismettlesomeoldmare,--whoplungeddownhillsandscrambledupasifshewererunningawayfromthebull-ring,whereshemustsoon

fulfilhermartyrdom,--betweentwodismalgraveyards.Fromthelarger,onourright,tiptoedoutafurtivemanandpeeredintothecabasifhethoughtwehadacoffinundertheseat.

Heprovedablood-curdlingconductor,alwaysspeakinginahoarsewhisperandglancingoverhisshoulderinawaytomakethestoutestnervesfeelghosts,butheshowedus,underthatsunsetsky,memorablesights--ranksuponranksofgrittymoundsmarkedwithblack,woodencrosses,ascantygraceforwhichthelivingoftenpaythepriceoftheirownbreadthatthedeadtheylovemaypassayearortwooutofthathideousgeneralfosse.Thenthesextonreluctantlyledustotheunblessed,untendedhollowacrosstheway,whererowsofbricksepulchresawaitthepoorbabieswhodiebeforetheholywatertouches

them,whererecumbentmarblespressuponthedeadwhoknewnoupwardreachofhope,andwheredefiantmonuments,erectedbypopularsubscriptionandoftenbearingtheblazonryofagiantquill,denotetheresting-placesoffreethinkersandtheagitatorsofnewideas.ThereweresomeChristianinscriptions,whetherforProtestantsornotIdonotknow,buttomytwocompanionstherewasnodistinctionofpersonsinthisunhallowedlimbo.

Ourdustyguideledushurriedlyfromplottoplot.



by-pathandsignedtoustofollow.Heledusthroughstonypassagesoutbeyondthesanctifiedgroundintoadreary,oblongspace,apatchofweedsandsand,enclosedbytheloftysepulchralwalls,butwithablessedstripofblueskyoverhead.

"Heretheyare!"hechuckled."Theywouldn'tconfess,theydiedwithoutthesacraments,andheretheyare."

SomenamesletteredonthewallseemedtobethoseofDutchandNorwegiansailors,whohadperhapsdiedfriendlessinthisforeignport.Therewerepebble-strewngravesofJews,anduprightmarblesfromwhichthedeadstillseemedtouttervoice:"Irefusetheprayersofallthesaints,andasktheprayersofhonesthumansouls.IbelieveinGod."Andanother,"Godisknowledge."Andanother,"GodisAllthatworksforWisdomandforLove."

"Arethereburialservicesforthese?"Iinquired.

IftheChurchofEnglandcouldhaveseenthatcrookedoldsextongothroughhisgleefulpantomime!

"There'sonethatcomeswithsome,andtheycallhimPastor!Andhescrapesupahandfulofdirt--so!Andheflingsitatthecoffin--so!Andthenhestandsupstraightandsays,'Dusttodust!'I'veheard

himsayitmyself.""Godofmysoul!"criedtheSpanishladyinhorror,andtoexpressherdetestationofsuchaheathenishrite,shespatupontheground.

ThemonarchsofSpaindonotmingletheirashes.WhoknowswhereRodericksleeps?Ordoesthatdeathlessculpritstilllurkinmountaincaverns,astraditionhasit,wringinghiswastedhandsandtearinghiswhitebeardinunavailingpenitence?The"Catholickings,"FerdinandandIsabella,lie,notwheretheyhadplanned,inthatbeautifulGothicchurchofToledo,_SanJuandelosReyes_,onwhoseouterwallsyethangtheMoorishchainsstruckfromthelimbsofChristiancaptives,butinGranada,thecityoftheirconquest,where

theyslumberproudly,althoughtheircoffinsareofplainestleadandtheirlastroyalchamberasmallandduskyvault.PedrotheCruelisthrustawayinanarrowwall-gravebeneaththe_CapillaReal_ofSevillecathedral.Hisbrother,theMasterofSantiago,whomhetreacherouslyslewinoneoftheloveliesthallsoftheAlcázar,ispackedcloselyinonhisleft,andMariadePadilla,forwhosesakehecutshortthehaplesslifeofQueenBlanche,onhisright.Pleasantfamilydiscussionstheymusthaveatthewitchinghourofnight,whentheydragtheirnumbbonesoutofthosepigeon-holesforabriefrespiteofelbowroom!SanFernando,theCastilianconquerorofCastile,canonized"becausehecarriedfagotswithhisownhandsfortheburningofheretics,"ismorecommodiouslyaccommodatedinasilversarcophagusinthechapelabove,whereAlfonsotheLearnedalso

haslongleisureforthought.AnotherAlfonsoandanotherFernando,withanotherwifeofPedrotheCruel,keeptheirstateinSantiagodeCompostela,andstillanotherAlfonsoandtwoSanchoshavetheirsplendidtombsinthe_CapillaMayor_ofToledocathedral,whileinits_CapilladelosReyesNuevos_,alinedescendedfromthatbrotherwhomPedromurdered,sleepsthefirstJohn,withthesecondandthirdHenrys.

[Illustration:BULL-FIGHTOFTO-DAY]



salvation."

ThatisthewaySpainkeptherCorpus_fiesta_inthegoodoldtimesofCharlestheBewitched;butnotnow.Aftertheprocession,thebull-fight;andafterthebull-fight,thelatestvaudevilleorballet.LastyearitrainedonCorpusThursday,whichfellonthefirstofJune,andMadridgaveuptheprocessionaltogether.SomeoftheOppositionpapersstartedthecrythatthiswasshockinglyirreligiousinSilvela,butwhentheGovernmentorganshaughtilyexplainedthatitwasthedecisionofthearchbishopandSeñorSilvelawasnotevenconsulted,therighteousindignationoftheLiberalsstraightwaysubsided.Theprocession,whichwastohavebeenamatterofkettledrumsandclarionets,soldiery,"coachesofrespect"fromthepalaceandthecitycorporation,andafullshowingoftheparochialclergy,didnotseemtobemissedbythepeople.CorpushaslongceasedtobeachiefeventintheCapital.

ThereareafewcitiesinSpain,however,wheretheCorpusfêteismaintainedwithsomethingoftheoldgayetyandsplendor.BustlingBarcelona,nevertoobusyforafrolic,keepsitmerrilywithanelaborateparadefromthecathedralallaboutthecity,and--delightfulfeature!--thedistributionofflowersandsweetmeatsamongtheladies.TheprocessioninValenciaresemblesthoseofHolyWeekinSeville.Onlittersstrewnwithflowersandthick-setwith

candle-lightsarebornecarvedgroupsofsacredfiguresandrichlyattiredimagesofChristandtheVirgin.ButitisinlyricAndalusiathatthesepageantriesaremostathome.Amongherpopular_coplas_isonethatruns:--

"Thursdaysthreeintheyeartherebe,Thatshinemorebrightthanthesun'sownray--HolyThursday,CorpusChristi,AndourLord'sAscensionDay."

Cadiz,likeValencia,carriesthe_pasos_intheCorpusprocession.InSeville,wherethestreetdisplaysofHolyWeekareunderthechargeofthereligiousbrotherhoods,or_cofradias_,CorpusChristigives

opportunityfortheclergyandaristocracytopresentarivalexhibitionofsanctifiedluxuryandmagnificence.

ButitisinbeautifulbelatedGranadathattheCorpusfêteisnowatitsbest.Abrilliantlyillustratedprogramme,whosemany-huedcoversignificantlygroupsagambogecathedralverymuchinthebackground,andaflower-crownedAndalusianmaiden,drapedinaManilashawl,withaprodigiousguitaratherfeet,verymuchintheforeground,announcesamedleyoffestivitiesextendingoverelevendays.Thischeerfulbookletpromises,togetherwithaconstantsupplyofmilitarymusic,balconydecorations,andcityilluminations,anassortmentofpleasureswarrantedtosuiteverytaste--infantryreviews,cavalryreviews,cadetreviews,massesunderroofandmassesintheopen,

claustralprocessions,paradesofgiants,dwarfs,and_LaTarasca_,acharityraffleintheparkunderthepatronageofGranada'smostdistinguishedladies,theerectionofout-of-dooraltars,thedispensingofsixthousandloavesofbreadamongthepoor(frommyexperienceofGranadabeggarsIshouldsaythesupplywasinsufficient),asolemnCorpusprocessionpassingalongwhite-canopiedstreetsunderarainofflowers,threeregularbull-fightswiththegrandmastersGuerrita,Lagartijillo,andFuentes,followedbyagloriouslybrutal_corrida_,withyoungbeastsandinexperiencedfighters,cattlefair,booths,puppetshows,climbingofgreased



poles,exhibitionoffineartsandindustries,horseracing,polo,pigeonshoot,trapeze,balloonascensions,gypsydances,andfireworksgalore.

ButevenfaithfulGranadasharedinthestrangecatalogueofmisfortuneswhichattendedCorpuslastyear.TherainsdescendedonherChineselanterns,andthewindsbeatagainstherArabicarcheswiththeirthousandsofgas-lights.OnthesacredThursdayitself,theAndalusianweathermadeamostunusualdemonstrationofhurricaneandcloudburst,withinterludesofthunderandlightning.Greatwasthedamageinfield,vineyard,andorchard,andasforprocessions,theywereinmanyplacesoutofthequestion.EvenSevilleandCordovahadtopostponebothparadesandbull-fights.Butthiswasnottheworst.InEcija,oneofthequaintestcitiesofAndalusia,animageoftheVirginastheDivineShepherdess,lovinglyarrayedandadornedwithnolittleoutlaybythenunsoftheConception,caughtfireintheprocessionfromataper,likeSeville'sVirginofMontserratinthelast_SemanaSanta_.The_DivinaPastora_barelyescapedwithherjewels.Herelaborategarments,theherbageandfoliageofherpasture,andoneofherwoollysheepwereburnedtoashes.InPalmadeMallorca,aromantictownoftheBalearicIsles,abalcony,whoseoccupantswereleaningouttowatchtheprocession,brokeaway,andcrasheddownintothemidstofthethrong.Ayounggirlfelluponthebayonetofasoldiermarchingbeneath,andwasgrievouslyhurt.Others

sufferedwoundswhich,inonecaseatleast,provedfatal.TheOppositionjournalsdidnotfailtomakecapitaloutoftheseuntowardevents,servingthemupinsatiricversewiththeirreverentsuggestionthat,ifthiswasallthefavorareactionaryandultra-CatholicgovernmentcouldsecurefromHeaven,itwastimetogobacktoSagasta.

TheecclesiasticalToledo,seatofthePrimateofallSpain,isoneoftheSpanishcitieswhichstillobserveCorpusChristiasahighsolemnity,andToledoiswithineasypilgrimagedistanceofMadrid.IhadalreadypassedtwodaysinthatancientcapitaloftheVisigoths,riddingmyconscienceofthesightseers'burden,andIbothlongedanddreadedtoreturn.Thelongingovercamethedread,andIdroppedinat

the_EstaciondelMediodía_forpreliminaryinquiries.Icoulddiscovernobureauofinformationandnoofficialauthorizedtoinstructthepublic,butinthislotus-eatinglandwhatisnobody'sbusinessiseverybody'sbusiness.Therecouldnotbeabetter-humoredpeople.Thekeeperofthebookstandabandonedhiscounter,hiswould-becustomerslightingcigarettesandleaningupagainsttrucksandstacksofluggagetowaitforhisreturn,andescortedmethelengthofthestationtofindabigyellowposter,whichgavethespecialtime-tableforCorpusThursday.Theposterwassohighuponthewallthatourcombinedeffortscouldnotmakeitout;whereuponanimblelittleporterdroppedthetrunkhewascarrying,andclimbedontopofitforabetterview.Inthatcommandingpositionhecouldseeclearlyenough,butjustwhenmyhopeswereatthebrightest,he

regretfullyexplainedthathehadneverlearnedtoread.Asheclambereddowntheproprietorofthetrunk,whohadbeenlookingonwithasmuchserenityasiftrainsneverwentandstartingbellsneverrang,mountedinturn.Thisgentleman,allsmilesandbowsandtobaccosmoke,readoffthedesireditems,whichthekeeperofthebookstandcopiedformeinaleisurely,conversationalmanner,withapencillentbyonebystanderonacarddonatedbyanother.

ThereisreallysomethingtobesaidfortheSpanishwayofdoingbusiness.Ittakestime,butiftimeisfilledwithhumankindliness



Cid,wasprobablymuchoftheiraspect,andcertainlygainedhislivinginverysimilarways.Therewereafullscoreofthesepicturesqueplunderers,andnotapersonofthenineteenthcenturyinsight.Sincetherewasnothingtodo,Ididit,andgivingthemapartingglanceofmoraldisapproval,towhichseveralofthesauciestrespondedbyblithelytouchingtheirforelocks,Ipursuedmypilgrimcourse,purgedofvainglory.Atallevents,Iwasdeliveredfromtemptationastoaquestionable_peseta_inmypurse--myprettyParispurse!--andIshouldnotbeobligedtotravelagainonthatodiousbull-fightticket.

Wewerehaving"foolweather,"blowingnowhot,nowcold,butasatthismomenttheairwascool,andeverypossiblevehicleseemedpacked,thatched,fringedwithclingingpassengers,Idecided,notseekingfurtherreasons,towalkuptothetown.Andwhatatownitis!Whocouldrememberdollars?Sofarfrombeingdecentlydepressed,Iwasalmostgladtohavelostsomethinginthiscolossalmonumentoflosses.Itseemedtomakeconnection.

Betweendeep,rocky,precipitousbanks,stronglyflowsthegolden"kingofrivers,thevenerableTajo,"almostencirclingthegranitepedestalofthecityandspannedbyancientbridgesofmassystone,withbattlemented,Virgin-niched,fierceoldgates.Andabove,uponitsruggedheight,crumblinghourlyintothegrittydustthatstings

theeyeandscrapesbeneaththefoot,liesinswirlsonfloorandpavement,blowsoneverybreezeandsiftsthroughhairandclothing,istheproud,sullen,forsakenfortressof"imperialToledo."Stillitisavisionofturrets,domes,andspires,fretwork,buttresses,façades,butallsodesolate,sodreary,isolatedinthatparchedlandscapeasitisisolatedinthelivingworld,thatoneapproacheswithstrangelyblendedfeelingsofawe,repugnance,anddelight.

OnwegoovertheBridgeofAlcántara,wroughtæonssincebyagangofangryTitans--theguidebookserroneouslyattributeittotheMoorsandAlfonsotheLearned--withashudderingglanceouttowardtheruinsoffeudalcastles,hereabattlementedkeepsetwithmightytowers,thereagreat,squat,frowningmassofstone,theverysightofwhichmight

havecrushedaprisoner'sheart.Up,straightup,intothegrim,gray,labyrinthinecity,whosezigzagstreets,oftennarrowinguntiltwoladendonkeys,meeting,cannotpass,sotwistandturnthatitisimpossibleonenteringonetoguessatwhatpointofthecompasswewillcomeout.Thesecrookedways,pavedwith"agonystones,"arelinedwithtall,dark,inhospitablehousefronts,whosefewwindowsareheavilygrated,andwhosehugedoors,bristlingwithironbosses,arefurnishedwithfantasticknockersandawholearsenalofboltsandchains.

[Illustration:THEKINGOFTHEGYPSIES]

Gloomyastheseponderousstructuresare,everystepdisclosesa

noveltyofbeauty,--achiselledangel,poisedforflight,chasedescutcheons,bas-reliefs,toothedarches,medallions,weather-eatengroupsofsaintsandapostlesgossipingintheirscallopednichesaboutthedegeneracyofthetimes.TheMoors,whosearchitecture,saysBecquer,seemsthedreamofaMoslemwarriorsleepingafterbattleintheshadowofapalm,havelefttheirmarkthroughoutToledointheairyeleganceofthetraceriesmagicallycopiedfromcobwebsandtheMilkyWay.Thattragicrace,theJews,havestampedonthewallsoflong-desecratedsynagoguestheirownmysteriousemblems.AndGothsandChristianknightshavewroughttheirverylikenessesintothestern,



helmetedheadsthatpeeroutfromthecapitalsofmarvellouscolumnsamidthestonegrapesandpomegranatesmostfitfortheirheroicnourishment.Butallisindecay.Herestandsabroken-sceptredstatueturningitsroyalbackonaraggedvenderoftoasted_garbanzos_.EventheimageofWambahaslostitsroyalnose.

Youmaytraversewhisperingcloistersheapedwithfallencrosses,withtruanttombstones,andseveredheadsandlimbsofaugustprophets.Castasideinduskyvaultsliebrokenshaftsofrose-tintedmarblesandfragmentsofrarecarvinginwhosehollowsthebirdsoftheaironcebuilttheirnests.Throughthetangleofflowersandshrubberythatchokesthepatiosgleamtherimsofalabasterurnsandbasinsofjasperfountains.Suchradiantwingsandfacesasstillflashoutfromfriezeandarchandcolumn,suchlaughinglooks,freshwithadewybrightness,asifyouthandspringtimewereenchantedinthestone!Andwhatsupremegraceandtruthofartistryinallthisbewilderingdetail!Onsomefar-offdayofthegoldenage,whenivoryandagatewereaswax,whencedarandlarchwoodyieldedliketheirownsoftleaves,themagicianmusthavepresseduponthemtheoliveleaf,theacaciaspray,thebaby'sfoot,thathavelefttheseperfecttraces.Andhowdidmortalhandeverachievetheintricate,curling,unfolding,blossomingmarvelofthosecapitals?Andwhosavekings,WambasandRodericks,Sanchos,Alfonsos,andFernandos,shouldmountthesemagnificentstairways?Andwhathavethosestaringstonefaces

abovethatantiquedoorwaylookedupontoturnthemhaggardwithhorror?Cityofghosts!Thefleshbeginstocreep.Buthere,happily,wearearrivedinthe_PlazadeZocodovér_,whereLazarillodeTormesusedtodisplayhistalentsastowncrier,andinthislong-memoriedmarket-place,withitsarcadedsidesandtrampledgreen,maypausetotakeourbearings.

Evidentlytheprocessionistopasshere,forthebalconies,stilldisplayingtheyellowfrondsofPalmSunday,arehungwithallmannerofdraperies--clearblue,orangewithsilverfringes,redwithvioletbars,whitewithsaffronscallops.Freedfromsordidcaresaboutmypocket,Igivemyselfforalittletothespellofthatstrangescene.Beyondrisetherich-huedtowersoftheAlcázar,onthesitewhere

Romans,Visigoths,Arabs,theCid,andanillustriouslineofSpanishmonarchshavefortifiedthemselvesinturn;butTimeatlastisconqueror,andonevisitsthedismantledcastleonlytoforgetallaboutitinthegrandeuroftheview.Fromtheeastsideofthe _Zocodovér_soarsthearchonwhosesummitusedtostandthe _SantisimoCristodelSangre_,beforewhomtheCorpustraindidreverence.AndhereinthecentreblazedthatmomentousbonfirewhichwastosettlethestrifebetweentheoldToledanliturgyandthenewritualofRome;buttheimpartialelementshonoredboththePrayerBooksplaceduponthefagots,thewindwaftingtoaplaceofsafetytheRomanbreviary,whiletheflamesdrewbackfromtheother,withtheresultthattheprimitiveriteisstillpreservedinanespecialchapelofthecathedral.

Aglorious_plaza_,famedbyCervantes,lovedbyLopedeVega,butnowhowdimandshabby!Onthehouse-frontsoncesogaylycolored,thegreenshavefadedtoyellows,theredstopinks,andthepinkstobrowns.Theawningspreadalongtherouteoftheprocessionisfairlycheckeredwithamiscellanyofpatches.Ipassthecomplimentsofthedaywithasmilingpeasantwoman,whosehusband,astrikingcolor-schemeinmaroonblanket,azuretrousers,russetstockings,andsoiledgraysandals,offersmehisseatonthestonebenchbesideher.ButIamboundonmyerrand,andtheybidme"GowithGod."Iselecta



"Hewillbeherealltheafternoon,"saysthesacristan,"andnothingcanbeshown;butifyouwillcomebackto-morrowIwillarrangeforyoutoseeevenOurLady'srobesandgems."

Comeback!Ifeltmyselfgrayingtoashadowalready.OfcourseIlongedtoseeagainthatmarvellouswoodworkofthechoirstalls,withalltheconquestofGranadacarvedamidcolumnsofjasperandunderalabastercanopies,butIwassmotheredinamultitudeofghosts.Theycrowdedfromeveryside,--nuns,monks,soldiers,tyrants,magnificentarchbishops,themartyredLeocadia,passionateRoderick,weepingFlorinda,grimCountJulian,"myCid,"PedrotheCruel,thosefivethousandChristiannoblesandburghersofToledo,slain,onebyone,atthetreacherousfeastofAbderrahman,thosehordesofflamingJewswrithingamidtheInquisitionfagots.IhadkeptmyCorpus.Ihadseenthegreatestofall_autossacramentales_,Calderon'smasterpiece,"LifeisaDream."

"OnasingleoneoftheVirgin'sgold-wroughtmantles,"coaxedthesacristan,"areeighty-fivethousandlargepearlsandasmanysapphires,amethysts,anddiamonds.Iwillarrangeforyoutoseeeverything,whenOurLordisgoneaway."

Butno.Iamalittleparticularabouttreasures.SinceToledohaslosttheemeraldtableofKingSolomonandthatwondrouscopyofthe

Psalmswrittenupongoldleafinafluidmadeofmeltedrubies,Iwillnottroublethesevencanonstounlockthesevendoorsofthecathedralsacristy.LettheMadonnaenjoyherwealthalone.Ihave _pesetas_enoughformytickettoMadrid.

XIX

THETERCENTENARYOFVELÁZQUEZ

"Itisasombreandaweepingsky

Thatlowersabovetheenow,unhappySpain;Thy'scutcheonproudisdashedwithdimmingrain;Uncertainisthypathanddeepthysigh.Allthatismortalpasses;gloriesdie;Thishourthydestinyallotstheepain;ButfortheworkerofthywoesremainThoseretributionsslowlyforgedonhigh.

"PutthouthyhopeinGod;whatoncethouwertThouyetshaltbebylaborofthysonsPatientandtrue,withpurposetoatone;Andthoughthelaurelsoftheloud-voicedgunsArenotwithusto-day,thisbalmsourhurt--

CervantesandVelázquezareourown."--DUKEOFRIVAS:_FortheTercentenary_.

Thecelebration,asplanned,wascomparativelysimple,butenthusiasmgrewwithwhatitfedupon.TheKnightsofSantiagoheldthefirstplaceupontheprogramme,forintothathighandexclusiveordertheartisthadwonentrybyspecialgraceofPhilipIV.EvenSpainhasbeenaffectedbythemodernmovementforthedestructionoftraditions,andcertaineruditemeddlers,whohavebeendelvinginthe



therewiththe_SaladeVelázquez_wasdeclaredopen.

Tothis,astoallgalleriesandmonumentsunderStatecontrol,thepublicwasinvitedfreeofchargefortheweektocome.Theresponsewasappreciative,gentility,soldiery,ragamuffins,beviesofschoolgirlswithnotebooks,andfamiliesofforeignerswithoperaglassesgroupingthemselvesinpicturesquevariety,dayafterday,beforethearttreasuresofMadrid,whilebeggarssatinjoyfulsquadsonthestepsofthemuseums,collectingthefeeswhichthedoorkeepersrefused.

Duringthesesevendays,artisticandsocialfestivalsinhonorofVelázquezabounded,notonlyinMadrid,butthroughoutSpain.Palmamustneedsgetup,withphotographsandthelike,aVelázquezexposition,andSeville,insistingonhermotherrights,mustarrangeabelatedfuneral,withmassandsermonandatomboflaurelsandflowers,surmountedbybrushes,palette,andthecloakandhelmetoftheOrderofSantiago.Inthecapitalthe_CirculodeBellasArtes_ sumptuouslybreakfastedtheartistsfromabroad.Thedaintieswerespicedwithspeeches,guitars,ballet,gypsysongsanddances,congratulatorytelegrams,andaletterpostedfromParnassusbyDonDiegohimself.TwovaluablenewbooksonVelázquezsuddenlyappearedintheshopwindows,andsuchperiodicalsas_LaIlustración_,_BlancoyNegro_,_LaVidaLiteraria_,and_ElNuevoMundo_viedwithone

anotherinillustratednumbers,whileeventheone-centdailiescameoutwithspecialsdevotedtoVelázquezbiographyandcriticism.TheAcademyofSanFernandorenderedamusicalprogrammeofVelázquezdate,theQueenRegentissuedfivehundredinvitationstoanorchestralconcertintheRoyalPalace,andtherewastalk,whichfailedtofructify,ofagrandmasqueradeball,wherethecostumesshouldbecopiedfromtheVelázquezpaintingsandthedancesshouldbethosesteppedbythecourtofPhilipIV.

TheclosingceremonyoftheweekwastheunveilingofthenewstatueofVelázquez.ParisowestoFremiotanequestrianstatueofthepainter,who,likeShakespeareinhisParisstatue,ismadetolookverylikeaFrenchman,butthehorseisofthemostspiritedSpanish

type.AyoungerVelázquezmaybeseeninSeville,athomeamongtheorangetrees,andthe_PalaciodelaBibliotecayMuseosNacionales_ inMadridshowsastatuefromthehandofGarcia.Stillanother,anarrogant,stridingfigure,wasstandinginthestudioofBenlliure,readyforitsjourneytotheParisexposition.Thetercentenarystatue,byMarinas,isalsotruetothathaughtylookofVelázquez.Itrepresentshimseated,brushandpaletteinhand,thewindsliftingfromhisearsthoselong,clusteringfallsofhair,asiftolethimhearthepraisesofposterity.Littlehecaresforpraises!Thatartist'slookseesnothingbuthistask.

TheunveilingtookplacelateonWednesdayafternoon,infrontofthe _MuseodelPrado_,wherethestatuestands.Aturquoiseskyanda

lightbreezeputalltheworldinhappyhumor.Thelongfaçadeofthe _Museo_washungwithbeautifultapestries.HandsomemedallionsborethenamesofpaintersassociatedinonewayoranotherwithVelázquez--HerreraelViejo,hisfirstmasterinSeville;Pacheco,hissecondSevillianteacherandhisfather-in-law;LuisTristanofToledo,forwhomhehadanenthusiasticadmiration;ElGreco,thatstartlingmannerist,whosepenetratingportraitureoffaces,evenwhoseextraordinaryeffectsincoloringwerenotwithoutinfluenceontheyoungerman;Zurbarán,hisalmostexactcontemporary,enamorednolessthanVelázquezhimselfofthenewrealismemanatingfromthe



greatandterribleRibera;Murillo,whosedevelopinggeniusthefavoredCourtpainter,toohigh-heartedforenvy,protectedandencouraged,andAlonzoCano,theimpetuousartistofGranada,towhom,too,Velázquezwasfriendandbenefactor.

Spanishcolorsandescutcheonswereeverywhere.IndecoratedtribunessattheroyalfamilyandthechoicestofMadridsociety,withthemembersofthe_CirculodeBellasArtes_,whowerethehostsoftheday,andwithdistinguishedguestsfromtheprovincesandabroad.RomeroRobledo,asPresidentoftheSocietyofFineArts,welcomedtheQueen,closinghisbriefaddresswiththefollowingwords:"Never,señora,willyourexaltedsentimentsbeabletoblendwiththoseoftheSpanishpeopleinnoblerhourthanthis,commemoratinghimwhoisforeveralivingnationalgloryandwhoreceivesenthusiastictestimonyofadmirationfromallthecivilizedworld."TheirMajestiesdrewuponthecords,thetwosilkenbannersparted,andthestatuewasrevealedtotheapplaudingmultitude.Whiletheroyalgroupcongratulatedthesculptor,theambassadorsofAustriaandGermanylaidmagnificentwreaths,fashionedwithadueregardtothecolorsoftheirrespectivenations,atthefeetofVelázquez.TheeminentFrenchartists,CarolusDuranandJeanPaulLaurens,boreacrownfromFranceanddelightedtheaudiencebydeclaringthat"thepainteroftheSpanishkingwashimselfthekingofpainters."NothingsincethewarhadgladdenedSpainmorethanthepresenceandpraisesofthesetwo

famousParisians;thereverenceofMadridforParisisprofound.ThetributesofRomeandLondonexcitedfarlessenthusiasm.Stillmorewreaths,andmoreandmore,weredepositedbyaprocessionofdelegatesfromtheartsocietiesofallSpain,headedbySeville,thebandsplayingmerrilymeanwhile,untilthatstatelyformofbronzeseemedtorisefromoutahilloflaurels,ribbons,andflowers.

ThisisthefirstVelázquezcelebrationwhichhashaduniversalrecognition.ThepainterwashardlyknowntoEuropeatlargeuntilthedayofFernandoVII,whowasinducedbyhisart-lovingwife,IsabelofBraganza,tosendthepicturesfromtheroyalpalaces,allthoseaccumulatedtreasuresoftheAustrianmonarchs,totheemptybuilding,designedforanaturalhistorymuseum,inthe_Prado_.Thislong,low

edificeisnowoneofthemostgloriousshrinesofartintheworld.Itisacollectionofmasterpieces,showingthesplendorsthatareratherthantheprocessesbywhichtheycametobe.ThereisonlyoneFraAngelico,buttherearetenRaphaelsandfourtimesasmanyTitians.IntheNetherlands,nolessthaninItaly,theSpanishswaygatheredrichspoils.ThereareascoreofVanDycks,threescoreofthosepreciouslittlecanvasesbyTeniers,whileasforRubens,heblazesinsomesixty-fourChristiansaints,heathengoddesses,andhumansinners,allwithastrongfamilyresemblance.ButalthoughtheItalianandFlemishschoolsaresomagnificentlyrepresented,thewealthofSpanishpaintingiswhatoverwhelmsthevisitor.HerearefourroomsfilledwiththeworksofGoya--whosebones,bytheway,arrivedinMadridfromFranceforfinalsepultureafewdaysbefore

thecelebration.LittlemoreheedwaspaidtothisadventthantothatoftheUnitedStatesambassador,who,itmaybenoted,wasnotpresentedtotheQueenuntiltheVelázquezjubileewaswellover.ButasforGoya,thisunnoisedentrywasappropriateenough,forhe,whomDeAmicishascalled"thelastflame-coloredflashofSpanishgenius,"used,duringhislaterlife,tomakethelongjourneyfromBordeauxtoMadrideveryweekfornootherpurposethantogloatupontheSundaybull-fight,comingandgoingwithoutspeechorhandshake,onlyapairoffierce,bloodthirstyeyes.ThisfieryAragonesepaintedbull-fights,battles,executions,andInquisitiontortureswithblacks



representedinthegalleriesofAndalusia;butithasinitsbaker'sdozentwoimportantandcharacteristicworks,bothvisionsofSanPedroNolasco.Inonetheentrancedsaint,whosefiguremightbecarvedinstone,--stoneonwhichrayfromstained-glasswindowneverfell,--gazesuponanangel,whosevesture,crossedbyadarkgreenscarf,isflushedwiththefaintestrose.InthesecondthesombrecellisilluminatedforaninstantbytheapparitionofSt.PetertheApostle,headdownward,asinhiscrucifixion,hisnakedformdazzlingagainstavaguerednessoflightlikeamemoryofpain.

OneglanceatawallaglowwithMadonnabluesremindsusthatSpanishsacredartdoesnotculminateinRiberanorinZurbarán.TheChristianfaithhashadalmostaspure,poetic,andspiritualanutteranceinthelandoftheInquisitionasinItalyitself.ThisisnotMurillo'shour;itisthetriumphofVelázquezandtherealiststhatSpainiscelebratingto-day;butnonethelessitisajoyofjoystowalkbytheMurillosonthewaytothelaurelledbustandthecrowded_sala_.Thesearethepicturesthatareratherinheaventhanearth.WhereMary,divineinhervirginalloveliness,isnotupborneamongthegoldenclouds,theradiant-plumedangelkneelsonhercottagefloorandthewingsofthedescendingdovebeatwhitenessthroughtheair.Hereisrealismandmore.TheMaterDolorosahasthoseluminoussea-blueeyesofAndalusia,buttheytellofholytears.TheCrucifiedisnomeresufferer,butthesufferingSonofGod,andthecrownof

thorns,whiledrippingblood,haloeshisbrowswiththeredemptionoftheworld.

ThegeniusofVelázquezdweltnotabovetheearth,butuponit,intheheartofitsmostbrilliantlife.Hewasnodreamerofdreams;he"paintedthethingashesawit,"andwithwhatsureeyeshesaw,andwithwhatafirmandglowingbrushhepainted!His_sala_surroundsusatoncewithanatmosphereofbrightness,beauty,elegance,variety,delight.Hisworkissosuperb,sosupreme,that,likeperfectmanners,itputseventhehumblestofusatourease.Wearenotartists,butweseemtounderstandVelázquez.

Ofcoursewedon't.Noknightofthepalettewouldadmititforan

instant.Whatcantherabbleknowofthemysteriouscompoundingsandtouchingsfromwhichsprangthesesplendorsofcolorthatoutshinethecenturies?Youngmenwithstreaminghairarecontinuallyescortingawed-lookingseñorasabouttheroom,discoursingwithdramaticvehemenceonthe"periods"oftheMaster'swork.AsayouthatSeville,theyexplain,Velázquezhadofnecessitytakenreligioussubjects,fortheChurchwasthechiefpatronofartinAndalusia;buthisnaturalbenteventhendisplayeditselfintavernstudiesandsketchesofpopulartypes,asthe"Water-sellerofSeville"andthe"OldWomanFryingEggs."Ofhisearlyreligiouspiecesthearchbishop'spalaceofSevillekeeps"SanIldefonsoReceivingtheChasublefromtheHandsoftheVirgin,"andtheNationalGalleryofLondonsecured"ChristintheHouseofMartha,"but"TheAdorationof

theKings"hangshereatourrightasweentertheVelázquez_sala_.Alittlestiff,saytheseaccomplishedcritics,withasuggestionofthedrymannerofhismaster,Pacheco,butbearyouinmindthatthisistheproductionofayouthoftwenty.Itisobvious,too,thatAndalusians,notcelestialvisions,servedhimasmodels.

AlongingtoseetheTintoretsandTitians,thosestarrytreasuresofthedarkEscorial,drewhimtoMadridattwenty-three.Herehewasfortunateinfindingfriends,whobroughthisportraitstothenoticeofPhilipIV,adissoluteboyruledbytheCount-DukeOlivares.Youth



Ay,ay!Penniesveryfew.

"Redandyellowbanners!TheMooncomesouttosee.Ifmoonshadbettermanners,She'dtakemeonherknee.Ay,ay!Takemeonherknee.Shepeepsthroughpurpleshutters,WouldIweretallasshe!Ay,ay!WouldIweretallasshe!

"Soldiersneednotlearnletters,Noranyschoolything,Butunlesstheymindtheirbetters,Ingoldenchainsthey'llswing.Ay,ay!Ingoldenchainsthey'llswing.Orsitinsilverfetters,PresentsfromtheKing.Ay,ay!PresentsfromtheKing."

Thisironictouch,socharacteristicallySpanish,reappearsinmanyofthegames,asin_ALaLimón_,knownthroughoutthePeninsulaandtheAntilles.Ishouldexpecttofindit,too,incornersofMexico,SouthAmerica,thePhilippines,wherevertheSpanishoppressorhastrodandtheoppressor'schildrenhavesportedinthesun.Thelittleplayers,rangedintworows,eachrowhandinhand,dancetheonetowardtheotherandretreat,singingresponsively.Withtheirlastcouplet,thechildrenofthefirstlineraisetheirarms,formingarches,andthechildrenofthesecondline,lettinggohands,danceunderthesearchesastheyrespond.

1."_Alalimón,álalimón!_

Allbrokenisourbrightfountain.

2."_Alalimón,álalimón!_ Giveorderstohaveitmended.

1."_Alalimón,álalimón!_ Wehaven'tabitofmoney.

2."_Alalimón,álalimón!_ Butwehavemoneyinplenty.

1."_Alalimón,álalimón!_ Whatkindofmoneymayyoursbe?

2."_Alalimón,álalimón!_ Oh,oursismoneyofeggshells.

1."_Alalimón,álalimón!_ Anarchforthelordsandladies.

2."_Alalimón,álalimón!_ Rightmerrilywepassunder."



Iknowaplotofrosesred,Redasanyhero'ssword,OrthebloodofourHolyLord.Whereartthou,onthewing?''No,I'msittingintheswing.''Who'rethyplaymateswayupthere?''Swallowsskimmingthroughtheair.''Down,comedown!Thestewwillburn.Lettherestofushaveaturn.'"

Inplaying"HideandSeek,"theseekermustfirstsitinadroopingattitudewithcoveredeyes,whiletheothersstandaboutandthreatentostrikehimifhepeeps:--

"Oil-cruet!Don'tdoit!_Rasconras!_ Pepper-pot?Peepnot!_Rasconras!_"

Themenacinglittlefistsarethensuddenlywithdrawn.

"No,no!Notablow!Butapinchonthearmwilldonoharm.Nowletthebirdiestakealarm!"

Andoffscamperthehiderstotheirchosennooks.Whentheyaresafely

tuckedaway,theindispensableMother,standingby,singstotheseekerthatstanzawhichishissignalforthestart:--

"MylittlebirdsofthemountainForthfromthecageareflown.MylittlebirdsofthemountainHaveleftmeallalone."

Spanishforfeitgamesarenumerousandingenious.Inoneofthese,called"TheToilet,"theplayerstakethenamesofMirror,Brush,Comb,Towel,Soap,andotheressentials,includingJesus,Devil,andManAlive,theselastforexclamatorypurposes.Aseachismentionedbytheleaderofthegame,hemustriseinstantly,onpainofforfeit,

nomatterhowfastthespeakermayberattlingon:"_Jesus!_Whenwillthat_devil_ofa_maid_bringmemy_powder_and_perfumes_?"Characteristictitlesofotherforfeitgamesare,"TheKeyofRome,""TheFan,""TheFountain,""ISawmyLoveLastNight."Thesentencesvaryfromsuchgentlepenaltiesas"TheCaressofCadiz"tothepredicamentofputtingthreefeetonthewallatonce.

Thechoralversesareoftenmerenonsense.

"Pipeaway!pipeaway!Letusplayalittleplay!Whatwillweplay?We'llcutourhandsaway.

Whocutthem,who?Rainfromouttheblue.Whereistherain?Hensdrankitupagain.Hens?Andwherearethey?Gonetheireggstolay.Whowilleatthemup?Friarswhentheysup.Whatdofriarsdo?Sing'gori-gori-goo.'"



WatchingSpanishchildren,onemayseetwolittlegirls,sayWhiteRoseandSweetness,flyoutintoanopenspace,whereWhiteRosecarefullyplacesthetipsofhersmallshoesintouchwiththoseofSweetness.Thentheyclasphands,flingtheirlittlebodiesasfarbackastheseconditionspermit,andwhirlroundandround,singinglustily--untiltheyareovercomebygiddiness--thefollowingrigmarole,oroneofitsvariants:--

"Titirinela,ifyouplease!Titirinela,breadandcheese:'Whatisyourfather'sworshipfulname?''SirRed-pepper,whokissesyourhands.''Andhowdoeshecallhisbeautifuldame?''LadyCinnamon,atyourcommands.'Titirinela,toetotoe!Titirinela,roundwego!"

[Illustration:FROMTHETOWEROFGOLDDOWNTHEGUADALQUIVÍR]

Eveninsomeoftheirprettiestgamestheverseshaveachildishincoherence.Somedozenlittlegirlsformacircle,forinstance,withtheButterflyinthecentre.Theyliftherdress-skirtbytheborder,andholditoutspreadabouther.Anotherchild,ontheoutside,runs

aroundandaroundthering,singing:--"Whoarethesechatterers?Oh,suchanumber!NotbydaynorbynightDotheyletmeslumber.They'redaughtersoftheMoorishking,Whosearchthegarden-closeForlovelyLadyAna,Thesweetestthingthatgrows.She'sopeningthejasmineAndshuttinguptherose."

Thenthechildrensuddenlylifttheirhands,whichareholdingButterfly'sfrock,soastoenvelopherheadinthefolds.Thelittlesingeroutsidecontinues:--

"Butterfly,butterfly,Dressedinrose-petals!Isitoncandle-flameButterflysettles?HowmanyshirtsHaveyouwovenofrain?WeavemeanotherEreIcallyouagain."

Thesesongsarerepeatedseventimes.Thencomesanotherstanza:--

"NowthatLadyAnaWalksingardensweet,GatheringtherosesWhosedewisonherfeet,Butterfly,butterfly,Canyoucatchus?Tryit,try!"

Withthisthecirclebreaksandscatters,whileButterfly,blindedas



sheisbythefoldsofherownskirtwrappedaboutherhead,doesherbesttoovertakesomeone,whoshallthenbecomehersuccessor.

Manyofthegamesaresimplicityitself.Oftentheplayismerelyacircledance,sometimesendinginasuddenkneelingorsittingontheground,Oneofthesongsaccompanyingthisdanceruns:--

"Potatoesandsaltmustlittlefolkseat,Whilethegrown-uppeopledineOfflemonsandchestnutsandorangessweet,Withcocoanutmilkforwine.Onthegrounddowetakeourseat,We'reatyourfeet,we'reatyourfeet."

Sometimesalineofchildrenwillformacrossthestreetandrun,handinhand,downitslength,singing:--

"WehaveclosedthestreetAndnoonemaypass,OnlymygrandpaLeadinghisassLadenwithorangesFreshfromthetrees.Tilín!Tilín!

Downonourknees!Tilín!Tilín!Tilín!Tilín!TheholybellofSanAgustín!"

Aplayforfourweans,trainingthemearlytothe"eternalSpanishcontradiction,"consistsinholdingahandkerchiefbyitsfourcorners,whileoneofthemsings:--

"Pullandslacken!I'velostmytreasurestore.Pullandslacken!I'mgoingtoearnsomemore._Slacken!_"

Andatthis,theotherthreechildrenmust_pull_,onpainofforfeit,whereasifthewordis_pull_,theirbusinessisto_slacken_.

Theyhaveagrasshoppergame,wheretheyjumpaboutwiththeirhandsclaspedundertheirknees,singing:--

"GrasshoppersentmeaninvitationTocomeandsharehisoccupation.Grasshopperdear,howcouldIsayno?Grasshopper,grasshopper,hereIgo!"

Inmuchthesamefashiontheyplay"Turkey,"gobblingastheyhop.

Ineverfoundthem"playinghouse"preciselyafterthemannerofourownlittlegirls,buttherearemanyvariantsforthedialogueandsongsintheirgameof"Washerwoman."TheMothersays:"Mariquilla,I'mgoingouttotherivertowash.WhileIamgone,youmustsweepandtidyupthehouse."

"_Bueno,madre._"

ButnosooneristheMotheroutofsightthannaughtyMariquilla



beginstofriskforjoy,singing:--

"Motherhasgonetowash.Mother'llbegoneallday.NowcanMariquillaLaughanddanceandplay."

ButtheMotherreturnssosuddenlythatMariquillaseesherbarelyintimetobeginavigoroussweeping.

"'Whathastbeendoing,Mary?''Sweepingwithbroomofbrier.''Afriarsawtheeplaying.''Hewasalyingfriar.''Aholyfriartellalie!''Heliedandsodoyou.''Comehither,Maryofmyheart,'AndI'llbeattheeblackandblue.'"

Afterthislivelyexercise,thewasherwomangoesawayagain,chargingMariquillatochurnthebutter,thentokneadthebread,thentosetthetable,butalwayswiththesamedisastrousresults.TheMotherfinallycondemnshertoadinnerofbreadandbitters,butMariquillamakesapointofunderstandinghertosaybreadandhoney,andshares

thissweetnesswithhersympatheticmateswhoformthecircle.ThistimethebeatingissoseverethatthechildrenoftheringraisetheirarmsandletMariquilladodgefreelyinandout,whiletheydoalltheycantotripandhindertheiratewasherwomaninherpursuit.

Thereisanotherwashinggameofmoreromanticsort,thechorusbeing:--

"'Brightisthefountain,Whenskiesareblue.Whowashedmyhandkerchief?Tellmetrue!''Threemountainmaidens

Oflaughinglook.WhitewenttheirfeetIntherunningbrook.Onethrewinroses,Andjasmineone.OnespreadthyhandkerchiefInthesun.'"

Spanishchildren"playstore,"ofcourse,buttheyaresuchdramaticlittlecreaturesthattheyneednobrokenwarefortheirmerchandise.Arowofthemwillsquatdowninthemiddleofthestreet,clasptheirhandsunderthehollowoftheirknees,andcrookouttheirarmsfor"handles."Thenacustomerwandersby,asking,"Whosellshoney-jars?"

Themerchantdisrespectfullyreplies,"ThatdoI,UncleoftheTornTrousers."TheshabbycustomeranswerswithCastiliandignity,"Ifmytrousersaretorn,mywifewillmendthem."Themerchantthenopensnegotiations."Willyoubuyalittlejarofhoney?""What'syourprice?"Themerchantisnotexorbitant."Afleaandalouse."Theprobabilitiesare,unhappily,thatthecustomerhasthesecommoditiesabouthim,andheinclines,thoughcautiously,towardthebargain.

"Yourlittlehoney-jarsaregood?"



Heanswersyes,matarile,rile,ron."

"TheCharcoalWoman"requiresanoddnumberofplayers.Thecircledancesaboutalittlegirlwhostandsallforlorninthecentre.Thechorussingsthefirststanza,thechildsingsthesecond,whichhasreferencetothefactthatSpanishcharcoalisoftenmadefromlaurelwood,andthechorus,inacomfortingtone,thethird.Then,whilethechildrunsaboutandaboutthecircleasifseeking,thechorusangrilysingsthefourthstanza,accusingherofambition,andthelittlecharcoalwomanretortswiththefifth,makingherchoiceasshesingsthelastfourwords.Atthisthecirclebreaks,thechildrenquicklychoosingmatesanddancingbypairs.TheonewhoisleftwithoutapartnertakesherplaceinthecentreasthenextCharcoalWoman.

1.

_Chorus._"Whowouldsaythatthecharcoalwoman,Sooty,sootycharcoalwoman,InallthecityandallthelandCouldfindalovertokissherhand?

2.

_CharcoalWoman._ "ThelittlewidowofgoodCountLaurelHasnooneleftherforkissorquarrel.Iwantasweetheartandfindmenone.Charcoalwomenmustbidealone.

3.

_Chorus._"Poorlittlewidow,sosweetthouart,Ifthere'snoothertoclaimthyheart,TakethypickofuswhostandReadytokissthysootyhand.

4.

_Chorus._"Thecharcoalwoman,thecharcoalwoman,Proudlittleblacklittlecharcoalwoman,GoesseekingupandseekingdownTofindtheCountofCabratown.

5.

_CharcoalWoman._ "IwouldnotmarrytheCountofCabra.NeverwillmarrytheCountofCabra.CountofCabra!Oh,dearyme!

I'llnothavehim,--_ifyou'renothe!_"

JustsuchcoquettishtouchesofSpanishspiritandmaidenprideappearinmanyofthesongs,as,forinstance,inoneoftheircounting-outcarols,"TheGarden."

"ThegardenofourhouseitisThefunniestgardenyet,Forwhenitrainsandrainsandrains,Thegardenitiswet.



Andnowwebow,Skipbackandthenadvance,ForwhoknowhowtomakeabowKnowhowtodance.AB--C--AB--CDE--FG--HI--J.Ifyourworshipdoesnotloveme,Thenabetterbodymay.AB--C--AB--C,KL--MN--OP--Q.Ifyouthinkyoudonotloveme,IamsureIdon'tloveyou."

Sometimesthesedancingmidgetslispasongofworldlywisdom:--

"IfanycadetWiththeewouldgo,Daughter,instantlyAnswerno.Forhowcancadet,ThissideofHeaven,KeepawifeOnhisdollarsseven?

"IfanylieutenantAsksacaress,Daughter,instantlyAnsweryes.ForthelieutenantWhokissesthyhandMaycometobeAgeneralgrand."

And,again,thesebabiesmaybeheardgivingwarningthatmenbetray.

"ThedaughtersofCeferinoWenttowalk--alas!

Astreetabove,astreetbelow,StreetofSanTomás.Theleastofall,theylosther.Herfathersearched--alas!Astreetabove,astreetbelow,StreetofSanTomás.AndtherehefoundhertalkingWithacavalier,whosaid,'Comehomewithme,mydarling,'TisyouthatIwouldwed.'

"Oh,haveyouseenthepeartreeUponmygrandpa'slawn?

Itspearsaresweetashoney,Butwhenthepearsaregone,Aturtle-dovesitsmoaning,Withblooduponherwings,Amidthehighestbranches,Andthisiswhatshesings:'IllfaresthefoolishmaidenWhotrustsastranger'sfibs.She'dbettertakeacudgelAndbreakhisuglyribs.'"



pleaseevenRibera'sanchorites.Theadventuroussmallboyabouttotakeahighjumppausestopray:--

"SaintMagdalene,Don'tletmebreakmythigh!Oh,SaintThomas,Helpthisbirdiefly!"

Thelittlegirlsexpressdecidedpreferencesforonesaintoveranother.

"OldSanAntón,Whathashedone?Putusinthecornereveryone.

"SanSebastiánIsaniceyoungman.Hetakesustowalkandgivesusafan."

SantaRitaisbestatfindinglostneedles,andSanPantaleónisahumorist.

"SanPantaleón,Aretwentyandone

ChildrenenoughforanhouroffunSlippersofironDonkeymusttryon.MoorswiththeirpagesRideingoldstages.ButifyouwantaGirdle,Infanta,Cucurucú,'Bout-facewithyou!"

Atthisoneofthechildrendancingincirclewhirlsaround,remaininginherplace,butwithbackturnedtothecentreandarmscrossedoverherbreast,althoughherhandsstillholdthoseofhernearest

neighbors.Therhymeissungoverandover,untilallthelittlefigureshavethusturnedaboutandthecircleisdancingunderlaughabledifficulties.

ButthedearestsaintofallisSanSerení.Twoofthebest-knowngamesareunderhispeculiarblessing.OneoftheseisofthegenuineKindergartentype,thechildrendancinginacirclethroughthefirsttwolinesofeachstanza,butthenloosinghandstoimitate,intimetothemusic,thesuggestedaction.

"SanSerení,Theholy--holy-hearted!Thusforthee

Theshoemakersarecobbling.Thus,thus,thus!Thusitpleasesus."

Evensoitpleasesseamstressestostitch,laundressestowash,carpenterstosaw,silversmithstotap,ironsmithstopound,andlittlefolkstodance,allfor"SanSerenídelabuena,buenavida."Inthesecondgame,agymnasticexercise,whosefourmovementsareindicatedinthefourstanzas,heisapostrophizedas"SanSerenídelMonte,SanSerenícortés."



"SanSereníoftheMountain,Oursaintofcourtesy,I,asagoodChristian,Willfalluponmyknee.

"SanSereníoftheMountain,Wherethestrongwindspass,I,asagoodChristian,Willseatmeonthegrass.

"SanSereníoftheMountain,Wherethewhitecloudsfly,I,asagoodChristian,Uponthegroundwilllie.

"SanSereníoftheMountain,Whereearthandheavenmeet,I,asagoodChristian,Willspringuponmyfeet."

WiththelegendofSt.Katharineandhermartyrdomchildishfancyhasplayedqueercaprices.

"InCadizwasawean--ah!Thegentlesteverseen--ah!HernamewasCatalina.Ay,so!HernamewasCatalina.

"Herfather,Moslemcruel,Hemadeherbringinfuel.Hermotherfedhergruel.Ay,so!Hermotherfedhergruel.

"TheybeatherTuesday,Wednesday,

TheybeatherThursday,Friday,TheybeatherSaturday,Monday.Ay,so!TheybeatherhardestSunday.

"OncebadeherwickedsireShemakeawheelmostdire,Ofscissors,knives,andfire.Ay,so!Ofscissors,knives,andfire.

"ThenobleChristianneighbors,Inpityofherlabors,

Broughtsilverswordsandsabres.Ay,so!Broughtsilverswordsandsabres.

"Bynoonhertaskwasended,AndonthatwheelallsplendidHerlittlekneeshebended.Ay,so!Herlittlekneeshebended.



"ThendownastairofamberShesawthecherubsclamber:'Comerestinourbluechamber.'Ay,so!Sherestsintheirbluechamber."

LittleSpaniardsarenottoointoleranttomakeaplay-fellowoftheDevil.Inoneoftheirpetgames,thechildrenforminline,withtheinvaluableMotherincharge.Toeachchildshesecretlygivesthenameofacolor.ThenanAngelcomesinwithaflyingmotionandcalls,forinstance,"Purple!"ButthereisnoPurpleinthecompany.ItisthentheDevil'sturn,whorushesin,usuallyarmedwithatable-fork,androarsfor"Green."ThereisaGreenintheline,andshehastofollowtheDemon,whiletheAngeltriesagain.Allright-mindedspectatorshopethattheAngelwillhavethelongerarrayatthelast.

TheVirgin'swell-belovednamecomesoftenintothechildren'ssongs.

"Forstudyingmylessons,Soasnottobeadunce,Papagavemeeightdollars,ThatImeantospendatonce.Fourformydolly'snecklace,Twoforacollarfine,

AndonetobuyacandleForOurLady'sshrine."

EventhesupremesolemnityoftheWaferbornethroughthekneelingstreetscannotabashthetrustfulgazeofchildhood.

"'Whereareyougoing,dearJesus,Sogallantandsogay?''IamgoingtoadyingmanTowashhissinsaway.AndifIfindhimsorryFortheevilhehasdone,Thoughhissinsaremorethanthesandsofthesea,

I'llpardoneveryone.'

"'Whereareyougoing,dearJesus,Sogallantandsogay?''I'mcomingbackfromadyingmanWhosesinsarewashedaway.BecauseIfoundhimsorryFortheevilhehaddone,Thoughhissinsweremorethanthesandsofthesea,I'vepardonedeveryone.'"

TheaffairsofStateaswellasofChurchhavelefttheirtracesonthechildren'splay.Asthelittleonesdanceincircle,theirpiping

musictellsaconfusedtaleofSpanishhistorywithintheselatterdays.

"InMadridthereisapalace,Asbrightaspolishedshell,AndinitlivesaladyTheycallQueenIsabel.NotforcountnordukenormarquisHerfatherwouldshesell,FornotallthegoldinSpaincouldbuy



Foursweetheartsaremine.

"'Thefirstheisthesonof--ThefirstheisthesonofAconfectioner--_ha_,_ha_!Aconfectioner.Sugar-plumshegivesme,Sugar-plumshegivesme,Caramelsandcreams--_ha_,_ha_!Caramelsandcreams.

"'Thesecondisthesonof--ThesecondisthesonofAnapothecary--_ha_,_ha_!Anapothecary.Syrupssweethegivesme,Syrupssweethegivesme,Formylittlecough--_hack_,_hack_!Formylittlecough.

"'Thethirdheisthesonof--ThethirdheisthesonofThebarbertothecourt--_ha_,_ha_!Thebarbertothecourt.

Powdersrarehegivesme,Powdersrarehegivesme,Andayellowwig--_ha_,_ha_!Andayellowwig.

"'Thefourth?Oh,'tisasecret,Thefourth?Oh,'tisasecret.OurnewItalianking--_ha_,_ha_!OurnewItalianking.Hegivesmesilkandsatin,Hegivesmesilkandsatin,Velvet,gold,andgems--_ha_,_ha_!Velvet,gold,andgems.'"

Strangestofallisthedramaticlittledialogue,whichonewithanearforchildren'svoicesmayhearanydayinMadrid,tellingofthedeathofQueenMercedes.

"'Whitheraway,youngKingAlfonso?(Oh,forpity!)Whitheraway?''IgoseekingmyqueenMercedes,ForIhavenotseenhersinceyesterday.'

"'ButwehaveseenyourqueenMercedes,Seenthequeen,thoughhereyeswerehid,Whilefourdukesallgentlyboreher

ThroughthestreetsofsadMadrid.

"'Oh,howherfacewascalmasheaven!Oh,howherhandswereivorywhite!Oh,howsheworethesatinslippersThatyoukissedonthebridalnight!

"'Darkarethelampsofthelonelypalace.Blackarethesuitsthenoblesdon.Inlettersofgoldonthewall'tiswritten:



_HerMajestyisdeadandgone_.'

"Hefaintedtohearus,youngAlfonso,Droopedlikeaneaglewithbrokenwing,Butthecannonthundered:'Valor,valor!'Andthepeopleshouted:'Longlivetheking!'"

Spanishwiseheadssaythatthechildren'schoralgamesarealreadyperishing,thattheblightofschoolsandbooksispassinguponthechild-lifeofthePeninsula,andsoontherewillbenomoretimeforplay.Thecomplaintofthe_niñas_ismuchtothesameeffect,yettheyweartheirruewithadifference:--

"Noteveninthe_Prado_ Canlittlemaidensplay,Becausethosestaring,teasingboysArealwaysintheway.

"Theymightberompingwithus,Forthey'reonlychildrenyet,Buttheywon'tplayatanythingExceptacigarette.

"Nowletmetellyoutruly:

Ifthingsgoonlikethis,AndmidgetscarefornothingButtowalkandtalkandkiss,

"Noplayswillcheerthe_Prado_ Infuturetimes,forthenThelittleboysofsevenWillallbemarriedmen."

XXI

"OLASEÑORITA!"

"SincetheEnglisheducationcameintofashion,thereisnotamaidenleftwhocanfeeltruelove."--ALARCÓN.

DuringmystiflingnightjourneyfromMadridtothenorthIhadmuchchatwithCastilianandGermanladiesinthecarriageaboutSpanishgirls.Ourtalkturnedespeciallyontheirreading,soremindingmeofanincidentofthepastspring.OnanAndalusianbalconyIoncefoundalittlegirlcurledupinthecoolestcornerandporingoverashabby,paper-boundbook.Onmyexpressinginterestinthevolume,she

presenteditatonce,accordingtothecodeofSpanishmanners."Thebookisatthedisposalofyourworship."Butasthebundleoftatteredleaveswasnotonlysoprecioustoherownsmallworship,butalsogreatlyindemandamongherworshipfulyoungmates,whoseconstantborrowingseemedastrainevenonAndalusiancourtesy,Iretaineditmerelylongenoughtonotethetitleandgeneralcharacter.ThenexttimeIenteredabook-shopIexpendedtencentsforthisspecimenofjuvenileliterature--"thebest-sellingbookinSeville,"iftheclerk'swordmaybetaken--andhaveitbeforemeasIwrite.Onthecoverisstampedapictureoftwogracefulseñoritas,



perusing,apparently,thisverywork,"TheBookoftheEnamoredandtheSecretaryofLovers,"andthroughoutthetwohundredpagesarescatteredcheapcuts,neverindecent,butsuggestingviolentardorsofpassion--embracings,kissings,gazings,pleadings,withhearts,arrows,torches,andotherancientandhonorableheraldryofCupid.Thetitle-pageannouncesthatthisisafiftheditionoftenthousandcopies.

[Illustration:THEDIVINESHEPHERD]

Theopeningsectionison"LoveandBeauty,"enumerating,bytheway,the"thirtypoints"essentialtoaperfectwoman."Threethingswhite--skin,teeth,andhands.Threeblack--eyes,eyebrows,andeyelashes.Threerosy--lips,cheeks,andnails."Butwarningisdulygiventhateventhethirtypointsofbeautydonotmakeupasumtotalofperfectionwithoutthemystic,all-harmonizingqualityofcharm.

Nextinorderaretheseveralsetsofdirectionsforwinningtheaffectionsofmaid,wife,andwidow,withacollectionofedifyingsentimentsfromvarioussaintsandwitsconcerningwidows.Descriptionsofweddingfestivitiesfollow,withaglowingdissertationonkisses,"thebanquet-cupsoflove."AfterthisstandsaCastiliantranslationofanimpassionedArablove-songwiththeburden,_Todoesamor_.Maximsonlove,culledchieflyfromFrench

authorities,aresucceededbyaneighteenth-centurylove-catechism:--"_Question._Artthoualover?

_Answer._Yes,bythegraceofCupid.

_Question._Whatisalover?

_Answer._Aloverisonewho,havingmadetrueandfaithfuldeclarationofhispassion,seeksthemeansofgainingtheloveofherwhomheadores."

Thisisthefirstlesson.Thesecondtreatsofthefivesignsoflove,

thethirdoflove'sduties,thefourthgivestheorisonoflovers--astartlingadaptationoftheLord'sPrayer--andtheircreed:"IbelieveinCupid,absoluteLordofLove,whogivestoloversalltheirjoys,andinherwhomIlovemost,formostlovableisshe,onwhomIthinkwithoutceasing,andforwhomIwouldsacrificegladlymyhonorandmylife."

Thereisnothinghere,itwillbenoticed,oftheEnglishman'sproudexception:--

"Icouldnotlovethee,Dear,somuch,LovedInothonormore."

Lovehasitsownbeatitudes,too."Blessedaretheywholovesincerely.Blessedaretheyofmerrymood.Blessedareloverswhohavepatience.Blessedaretherich,forlovedelightstospend."

A"DivinationofDreams,""copiedfromanancientmanuscriptfoundintheruinsoftheconventofSanPrudencio,inClavijo,"thatfamousbattle-groundwhereSt.JamesfirsttrampledtheMoors,nextengagesattention.Todreamofafanissignofacomingflirtation;ofabanner,successinwar;ofawoman'ssinging,sorrowandloss;ofstars,fairfortuneinlove;offire,goodluckatcards;ofablack



cat,troublefromthemother-in-law;ofclosedeyes,yourchildinmortalperil;ofbirds,joyandsweetcontent;ofaghost,illhealth;ofscissors,alover'squarrel;ofwine,acheatingFrenchman;ofshoes,longjourneys;ofangels,goodtidingsfromfaraway.Someoftheseomensareasurprisetotheuninitiatedreader.ItisbadlucktobeholdinadreamimagesofChristandtheVirgin.Achurch,seenfromwithin,denotesalms;fromwithout,death.Todreamofthealtararrayedforhighmassbetokensgravemisfortune.OtheromensaresignificantofSpanishdiscontents.TodreamofaJesuitbringsmiseriesandbetrayals;ofamilitaryofficer,tyrannyandbrutality;ofaking,danger;ofarepublic,"abundance,happiness,honors,andworkwellrecompensed."Oftenthesedivinationsrunintorhyme,as:--

"DreamofGodatmidnightdim,Andbydayyou'llfollowHim."

ThenextsectionofthisCompleteGuideisgivenovertosnatchesoflove-song,whichAndalusianchildrenknowbyheart.Thesefivearefairlyrepresentative:--

"Mineisaloverwellworththeloving.Undermybalconyhecries:'Youhavemaddenedmewithyourgraceofmoving,Andthebeamingofyoursoftblackeyes.'"

"Thoughthougotothehighestheaven,AndGod'shanddrawtheenear,ThesaintswillnotlovetheehalfsowellAsIhavelovedtheehere."

"IfIhadablossomrare,Iwouldtwineitinthyhair,ThoughGodshouldstoopandaskforitTomakeHisheavenmoreexquisite."

"Suchloveforthee,sentforthfromme,Bearsonsuchirongate

ThatI,usedso,nolongerknowWhetherIloveorhate."

"Thelearnédarenotwise,Thesaintsarenotinbliss;Theyhavenotlookedintoyoureyes,Norfeltyourburningkiss."

Thencomesa"NewDictionaryofLove,"definingsometwohundreddoubtfultermsinCupid'slexicon,as_forever_,_no_,_unselfish_.Afterthiswearetreatedtothelanguageoffanflirtation,ofhandkerchiefflirtation,offlowerflirtation,and"theclockofFlora,"bywhichloverseasilymakeappointments,--one,two,three,

beingnumberedinrose,pink,tulip,andsoon.Acutofayouthtoilingatamanuscript-ladendeskintroducessomefiftypagesofmodellove-letters,whichseem,tothecasualeye,tocoverallcontingencies.Aselectionofversesusedforaddingagracetobirthdayandsaint-daygiftscomesafter,andthisall-sufficientcompendiumconcludeswitha"Lovers'Horoscope."

AsingleillustrationofthesortofreadingthatSpanishgirlsfindintheirwayshouldnot,ofcourse,bepressedtoofar,andyetanyonewhohadseentheprettygroupofheadsclusteredforhoursover



theseverypagesonthatshadedbalconywouldnotdenythebooksignificance.AtasteforthebestreadingisnotcultivatedinSpanishgirls,evenwherethetreasuresofthatgreatCastilianliteratureareaccessibletothem.ConventeducationknowsnothingofCalderon.Asforbooksespeciallyadaptedtogirlhood,wehavejustexaminedasample.

Loveandreligionaretheonlysubjectswithwhichaseñoritaisexpectedtoconcernherself,andthelifeoftheconventisoftenasecondchoice.EvenwhenaSpanishgirlwinshercrownofwifehoodandmotherhood,herignoranceandpovertyofthoughttellheavilyagainstthemostessentialinterestsoffamilylife.TheSpanishbrideisoftenachildinyears.Pacheco'sdirectionforpaintingtheImmaculateConceptionran,"OurLadyistobepicturedintheflowerofherage,fromtwelvetothirteen."Thiswasthreecenturiesago,butSpainchangesslowly.Thegirlofto-day,nevertheless,marrieslaterthanhermothermarried.Irememberonewearywomanoffortywitheighteenchildrenintheirgravesandthethreewhowerelivingphysicalandmentalweaklings.Shetoldusofafriendwhomarriedatfourteenandusedtoleaveherhouseholdaffairsinconfusionwhileshestoleawaytoacornertoplaywithherdolls.Herhusband,agravelawyerinmiddlelife,wouldcomehometodinnerandfindhishelpmeetrompingwiththeotherchildreninthe_plaza_.

TheSpanishgirliseverywhitasfascinatingashermusical,cloakedgallantconfidestoheriron-gratedlattice.Indeed,theseamorousserenadeshardlydoherjustice,blendingasshedoesFrenchanimationwithItalianfervor.InAndalusiashedanceswithagracethatmakeseveryotheruseoflifeseemvain.Andwhenshebargains,thereisnothingsordidaboutit.Herhagglingisasocialcondescensionthatatonceputstheblack-eyedyoungsalesmanathermercy.

"Butthefanseemstometheleastbitdear,señor."

Heshrugshisshouldersandflingsouthisarminprotest.

"Ah,señorita!Youseenothowbeautifultheworkis.Iamgivingit

awayatsix_pesetas_."

Sheliftshereyebrowshalfincredulously,allbewitchingly.

"Atfive_pesetas_,señor."

Herunshishandthroughhisblackhairinchivalrousdistress.

"Butthepeerlesswork,señorita!Andthisother,too!Isacrificeitatfour_pesetas_."

Shetouchesbothfanslightly.

"Youwillletushavethetwoatseven_pesetas_,señor?"

Hereyesdanceoverhisconfusion.Hecatchesthegleam,laughsback,throwsuphishands.

"_Bueno_,señorita.Atwhatyouplease."

IttakesaSpaniardtodepictathrongofSpanishladies,--"fierycarnationsorstarryjasmineintheirhair,cheekslikeblushroses,eyesblackorblue,withlashesquiveringlikebutterflies;cherry



lips,aglanceasfickleasthelightnodofaflowerinthewind,andsmilesthatrevealteethlikepearls;theall-pervadingfanwithitswordlesstelegraphyinathousandcolors."Insuchathrongoneseesnotonlythetypical"eyesofmidnight,"butthose"emeraldeyes"whichCervantesknew,andveritablepansy-coloredeyesdancingwithmorethanpansymischief.Butthevoices!IncuriouscontrasttothetonesofSpanishmen,soft,coaxing,caressing,thevoicesofthewomenaretoooftenhighandharsh,suggesting,inmomentsofexcitement,thescreamoftheAndalusianparrot."OJesus,whatafetchinghat!Thefeather,thefeather,see,see,see,_see_thefeather!MaryMostPure,butitmusthavecostfourorfive_pesetas_!Ah,myGod,don'tIwishitweremine!"ThespeakerwhogetstheleadinachatteringknotofSpanishwomenisaprodigynotonlyofvolubility,butofgeneralmuscularaction.Shekeepstimetohershrillmusicwithhands,fan,elbows,shoulders,eyebrows,knees.Shedasheshersentenceswithinarticulatewhirsandwhistles,andcountlesspiousinterjections:_GraciasáDios!SantaMaria!ODiosmio!_Theothers,out-screamedandout-gesticulated,clutchather,shriekather,flyather,andstill,bysomemysteriousgenius,maintaincourtesy,grace,anddignitythroughitall.Yetitistruethatthevulgar-richvarietyisespeciallyobnoxiousamongSpaniards.AnoverdressedSpanishwomanisfrightfullyoverdressed,hervoiceismaddening,hergustsofmirthandangerarepainfullyuncontrolled.This,however,istheexception,andrefinementtherule.

ThelegendarySpanishladyisforeversittingatabarredwindow,orleaningfromabalcony,coquettingwithafananddroppingarchresponsestothe"caramelphrases"ofherguitar-tinklingcavalier.

"You'realwayssayingyou'ddieforme.Idoubtitnevertheless;Butproveittruebydying,AndthenI'llansweryes."

For,lovingastheyare,Spanishsweetheartstakenaturallytoteasing."WhenhecallsmehisButterfly,IcallhimmyElephant.Thenhiseyesarelikeblackfire,forheisashamedtobesobig,butina

twinklingIcanmakehimsmileagain."Thescornofthesedaintycreaturesforthegracesoftherulingsexisnotaltogetheraffected.IshallnotforgettheexpressionwithwhichaSevillianbelle,anexquisitedancer,watchedher_novio_as,redandperspiring,heflunghisstoutlegsvaliantlythroughthemazesofthe_jota_."Menareuglierthaneverwhentheyaredancing,aren'tthey?"sheremarkedtomewithalltheserenityintheworld.AndabewitchingmaideninMadrid,asIpassedsomefavorablecommentuponthephotographsofhertwobrothers,gaveadeprecatoryshrug."Handsome?_Ca!_"(Whichis _no_manytimesintensified.)"Buttheyarenotsougly,either,--_formen_."

Thestyleofcomplimentaddressedby_caballeros_toseñoritasisnot

like"thequalityofmercy,"butverymuchstrainedindeed."Youreyesaretworunawaystars,thatwouldrathershineinyourfacethaninheaven,butyourheartisharderthanthecolumnsofSolomon'stemple.Yourfatherwasaconfectionerandrubbedyourlipswithhoney-cakes."LittleConsuelo,orLagrimas,orMilagros,orDolores,orPeligroslaughsitoff,"Ah,nowyouarethrowingflowers."

The_coplas_ofthewooerbelowthebalconyareusuallysentimental.

"BynightIgotothepatio,



Andmytearsinthefountainfall,TothinkthatIloveyousomuch,Andyoulovemenotatall."

"Sweetheart,littleSweetheart!Love,myLove!Ican'tseethyeyesForthelashesabove.Eyesblackasmidnight,Lashesblackasgrief!O,myheartisthirstyAsasummerleaf."

"IfIcouldbutbeburiedInthedimpleofyourchin,Iwouldwish,Dear,thatdyingMightatoncebegin."

"Ifthouwiltbeawhitedove,Iwillbeablue.We'llputourbillstogetherAndcoo,coo,coo."

Sometimesthesentimentisrelievedbyarealistictouch.

"Veryanxiousistheflea,Caughtbetweenfingerandthumb.MoreanxiousI,onwatchforthee,Lestthoushouldstnotcome."

Andoccasionallythelover,floutedovermuch,retortsinkind.

"Don'tblamemethateyesarewet,ForIonlypaymydebt.I'vetaughtyoutocryandfret,Butfirstyoutaughtmetoforget."

"I'llnothaveyou,LittleTorment,Idon'twantyou,LittleWitch.LetyourmotherlightfourcandlesAndstandyouinaniche."

TheaverageSpaniardiswellsatisfiedwithhisseñoraassheis.Hedidherextravaganthomageasasuitor,hetreatsherwithkindlyindulgenceasahusband,butheexpectsofheralifeutterlyboundedbythe_casa_."Whatisawoman?"weheardonesay."Abottleofwine."Andthosefewwordstellthestorywhy,withalltheircharm,home-love,andpiety,theSpanishwomenhavenotavailedtokeepthesociallifeofthePeninsulasoundandsweet.

"Buttoadmirethemasourgallantsdo,'Oh,whataneyeshehath!Oh,daintyhand!Rarefootandleg!'andleavethemindrespectless,ThisisaplaguethatinbothmenandwomenMakessuchpollutionofourearthlybeing."

Thelifeoftheconventisattractivetogirlsofmystictemperament,likethe_Maria_ofValdés,butmanyoftheselivelydaughtersofthesunregarditwithfrankdisfavor.OneofthesongsfoundinthemouthsoflittlegirlsalloverthePeninsulaisamusinglyexpressive



ofthechildishaversiontosodulladestiny.

"IwantedtobemarriedToasprightlybarber-lad,ButmyparentswishedtoputmeIntheconventdimandsad.

"OneafternoonofsummerTheywalkedmeoutinstate,Andasweturnedacorner,Isawtheconventgate.

"OutpouredallthesolemnnunsInblackfromtoetochin,Eachwithalightedcandle,Andmademeenterin.

"Thefilewaslikeafuneral;Thedoorshutouttheday;TheysatmeonamarblestoolAndcutmyhairaway.

"Thependantsfrommyearstheytook,AndtheringIlovedtowear,

ButthehardestlossofalltobrookWasmymatofravenhair.

"IfIrunouttothegardenAndplucktherosesred,IhavetokneelinchurchuntilTwicetwentyprayersaresaid.

"IfIstealuptothetowerAndclangtheconventbell,TheholyAbbessutterswordsIdonotchoosetotell.

"Myparents,Omyparents,Unkindlyhaveyoudone,ForIwasnevermeanttobeAdismallittlenun."

IcamebutslightlyincontactwithSpanishnuns.Amongthefiguresthatstandoutclearinmemoryareakindlyoldsister,atSeville,inthe_HospitaldelaCaridad_,whopausedmidwayinherexhibitionofthefamousMurillostheretowipehereyesandgrievethatwewereProtestants,andanaustere,beautifulwomanin_LaCuna_,orFoundlingAsylumofSeville,whocaressedacryingbabywiththepassionatetendernessofmotherhooddenied.ThemerriestSpanish _hermana_ofouracquaintanceweencounteredontheFrenchsideofthe

Pyrenees.AtAnglet,halfwaybetweenBiarritzandBayonne,istheConventoftheBernardines,SilentSisters.Thevisitorseesthemonlyfromadistance,robedinwhiteflannel,withlargewhitecrossesgleamingonthebackoftheirhoodedcapes.These,too,wereoriginallywhite,andthehoodssodeepthatnoteventheprofileofthefeaturescouldbeseen;buttheFrenchGovernment,disturbedbytheexcessivedeath-rateinthisorder,recentlyhadtheaudacitytointerfereandgivesummaryordersthatthehoodsbecutaway,sothatthehealthfulsunshinemightvisitthosepalefaces.Themandatewasobeyed,but,perhapsinsignofmournfulprotest,thenewhoodsand



capesareblackasnight.ThesewomenTrappistsmayrecitetheirprayersaloud,astheyworkinfieldorgarden,orovertheirembroideryframes,buttheyspeakforhumanhearingonlyonceayear,whentheirclosestfamilyfriendsmayvisitthemandlistenthroughagratingtowhattheirdisusedvoicesmayyetbeabletoutter.FromallothercontactwiththeworldtheyareshieldedbyanoutpostguardofafewoftheServantsofMary,anindustrious,self-supportingsisterhood,whoseownconvent,halfamileaway,isarefugeforunweddedmothersandahomeforunfatheredchildren.Hitherthepityingsistersbrought,afewdaysbeforeourvisit,awild-eyedgirlwhomtheyhadfoundlyingononeofthesearocks,waitingfortherisingtidetocoverherandhershametogether.Thechieftreasureofthisnunnery,oneregretstoadd,isthepolishedskullofMaryMagdalene.

ThatoneoftheServantsofMarywhoshowedusovertheTrappistconventwasabright-eyedSpanishdameofmanywinters,asnaturalachatterboxasevergossipedwiththeneighborsinthesun.Hergleeinthislittleopportunityforconversationwasenoughtowringtheheartofanyloverofoldladies.Shewalkedasslowlyaspossibleanddetainedusoneveryconceivablepretext,reachinguponherrheumatictiptoestopluckusredandwhitecamellias,andpointingout,withalingeringgarrulity,thehardnessofthecotsinthebare,coldlittlecells,thenarrownessofthebenchesintheausterechapel,and,in

thecheerlessdiningroom,thefloorofdeepsand,inwhichtheBernardineskneelthroughouttheirFridaydinnerofbreadandwater.Longestofall,shekeptusinthecemetery,allspickandspan,withclose-setrowsofnamelessgraves,eachwithacrossshapeduponitinwhiteseashells.Thedearoldsoul,inhercoarsebluegown,withtidywhitekerchiefandneatlydarnedblackhoodandveil,showedusthegraveofherownsister,adding,proudly,thatherfourremainingsisterswereallcloisteredinvariousconventsofSpain.

"Allsixofusnuns,"shesaid,"butmybrother--no!Hehasthedowriesofusallandlivesthelifeoftheworld.Justthink!IhavetwonephewsinToledo.Ihaveneverseenthem.Mysister'sgraveispretty,isitnot?Theyletmeputflowersthere.Oh,therearemany

familiesinSpainlikeours,whereallthedaughtersareputintoconvents.Spainisaveryreligiouscountry.Thesons?Notsooften.Sometimes,whenthereisaconscription,manyyoungmenbecomeprieststoescapemilitaryservicebutitisthewomenwhoaremostdevoutinSpain."

Andaftertherusticgatewasshutonthesleeping-placeoftheBernardines,scarcelymoresilentandmoredeadbeneaththesodthanaboveit,shestilldetaineduswithwhisperedhintsofdistinguishedSpanishladiesamongthoseghostly,far-offfiguresthat,pitchforkorpruningknifeinhand,wouldfallinstantlyupontheirkneesattheringingofthefrequentbellforprayers.Spanishladies,too,hadgiventhisFrenchconventmanyofitsmostcostlytreasures.Wesaid

good-bytoourguidenearanelaborateshrineoftheMadonna,whichabereavedSpanishmotherhaderectedwiththegravenrequestthatthenunsprayforthesoulofherbeloveddead.

"EvenweServantsofMaryarenotallowedtotalkmuchhere,"saidinpartingthismostsociableofsaints,clingingtouswithatoil-roughened,brownoldhand."Itisaholylife,butquiet--veryquiet.Ihavebeenhereforty-fouryearsthiswinter.MynameisSisterSolitude."



ThenunwhomIknewbestwasanexquisitelittlesisterjustbackfromManila.DuringseveralmonthsIwenttoher,inaParisconvent,twiceorthreetimesaweek,forSpanishlessons.ThereceptionroominwhichIusedtoawaithercomingshonenotaswithsoapandwater,butaswiththeveryessenceofpurity.Thewhitenessofthelong,finecurtainshadsomethingcelestialaboutit.Theonlybookinsight,abundleofwell-wornleavesboundincrimsonplushandplacedwithprecisioninthecentreofthegleamingmahoganytable,wasavolumeofclassicFrenchsermons,--thefirsttwobeingonDemons,andthenextonPenance.FurtherthanthisIneverread;forverypunctuallytheslightfigure,invioletskirtandbodice,withawhitecrossembroidereduponthebreast,sweptsoftlydownthehall.Aheavypurplecordandalarge-beadedrosarydependedfromthewaist.Inconversationsheoftenraisedherhandtopressherring,signofhersacredespousals,toherlips.HertypeoffaceIoftenafterwardsawinSpain,butneveragainsoperfect.Hercomplexionwastherichestsouthernbrown,theeyesbrighteninginexcitementtovivid,flashingblack.Theeyebrows,luxurianteventoheaviness,wereneverthelessdelicatelyoutlined,andthestraightlineofthewhitebandemphasizedtheirgracefularch.Thenosewasmassiveforawoman'sface,andtherewasaslightshadingofhairupontheupperlip.Themouthandchin,thoughsodaintilymoulded,werestrong.Notthemeek,religiousdroopoftheeyelidscouldmaskthefire,vigor,vitality,intensity,thatlaystoredlikesomuchelectricitybehind

thetranquilconventlook.Wewouldgoforthelessontoaseverelittlechamber,whoseonlyornamentwasacrucifixofolivewoodfastenedagainstthewall.Thenhowthosevelveteyeswouldglowandsparkleintheeagernessofrushingspeech!ThelittlesisterlovedtotellofherManilaexperience,almostawelcomebreak,Ifancied,inthemonotonouspeaceofcloisterlife.AllthatSundaymorning,whenthebattlewason,thenunsmaintainedtheircustomaryservices,hearingabovetheirprayersandchantsandthesolemndiapasonoftheorgan,theboom,boom,boomofourwickedAmericancannon.For,accordingtothisnaivehistorian,CatholicSpain,bestbelovedofOurLadyamongthenationsoftheearth,hadlaboredlonginthePhilippinestoChristianizethe

heathen,whensuddenly,inthemidstofthosepiouslaborswithwhichshewastoopreoccupiedtothinkoffittingoutmen-of-waranddrillinggunners,apiratefleetboredownuponherandoverthrewatoncetheSpanishbannerandtheHolyCross.Tearssparkledthroughflameasthe_hermanita_toldofherbeautifulconventhome,nowhalfdemolished.Thesistersdidnotabandonituntilsixweeksafterthebattle,butasthenunnerystoodoutsidethecitywalls,theirsuperiorjudgeditnosafeabodeforSpanishladies,andorderedthemaway.TheFrenchconsularrangedfortheirtransporttoHongkongonadirtylittlevessel,wheretheyhadtostayondeck,thetwenty-sevenofthem,duringtheirweek'svoyage,sufferingfromlackofpropershelterandespeciallyfromthirst,thewatersupplyrunningshorttheseconddayout.Butallthiswasjoyofmartyrdom.

"IsnotHongkongaverystrangecity?"Iasked."DiditseemtoyoumorelikeManilathanlikeParisandMadrid?"

Thelittlesister'svoicewastouchedwithpromptrebuke.

"Youspeakafterthefashionoftheworld.Allcitieslookaliketous.Oursisthelifeoftheconvent.Itmattersnothingwheretheconventstands."



Stimulatedbyreproof,Iwaxedimpertinent."Notevenifitstandswithinrangeoftheguns?Now,truly,truly,wereyounottheleastbitfrightenedthatmorningofthebattle?"

Thesunnysouthernsmilewasafleetingone,andleftareminiscentshadowintheeyes.

"Frightened?Oh,no!TherewerenogunsbetweenusandParadise.Fromearlydawnweheardthefiring,andhourafterhourwekneltbeforethealtarandprayedtotheMotherofGodtocomfortthesoulsofthebravemenwhoweredyingfor_lapatria_;butwewerenotfrightened."

Therewerestrangejostlingsofideasinthatcloisteredcell,especiallywhentheduskhadstoleninbetweenourbendingfacesandtheSpanishpage.

Oncewetalkedofsuicide.ThatmorningithadbeenawealthyyoungParisianwhohadpaiditsdailytributetotheSeine.

"Whatahorror!"gaspedthelittlesister,claspingherslenderhandsagainstherbreast."Itisamortalsin.Andhowfoolish!Foriflifeishardtobear,surelyperditionisharder."

"Itdoesnotseemtomesostrangeincaseofthepoor,"Iresponded,

waivingtheology."Butarichman,thoughhisownhappinessfails,hasstillthepowerofmakingothershappy."

"Ah,butIunderstand!"criedLittleManila,hereyeslikestarsinthedimness."Thedevildoesnotseetruthastheblessedspiritsdo,butseesfalsehoodsevenastheworld.Andsoinhisblindnesshebelievesthesoulofarichmanmorepreciousthanthesoulsofthepoor,andtemptstherichmanmorethanothers.Yetwhenthedevilhasthatsoul,willhefinditmadeofgold?"

[Illustration:MADRIDROYALPALACE]

OnechillyNovemberafternoon,graywithafogthathadutterly

swallowedtheEiffelToweraboveitsfirsthugeuprights,whichstraddleddisconsolatelylikelegsforsakenoftheirgiant,sheexplainedinasuddenrushofwordswhySpainhadbeenworstedinthewarwithAmerica.

"WhomtheLordloveth,Hechasteneth.Aswithpersons,sowithnations.ThosethatarenotofHisfoldHegivesovertotheirfillofvaingloryandgreedandpower,buttheCatholicnationsHecleansesagainandagaininthebitterwatersofdefeat--ah,infireandblood!Yettheendisnotyet.TherodofHiscorrectionisuponSpainatthishour,andtheFaithfularegladintheveryheartofsorrow,forevensoshallhersinsbepurgedaway,evensoshallhercoldnessbequickened,evensoshallshebemadereadyforhereverlasting

recompense."

"AndthepoorProtestantnations?"Iasked,betweenasmileandasigh.

Thelittlesistersmiledback,buttheCatholiceyes,foralltheircourtlygraciousness,wereimplacable.

ShewasofatitledfamilyandhadpassedapettedchildhoodinMadrid.Thereshehadbeentaken,onherseventhbirthday,toa



_corridadetoros_,butremembereditunpleasantly,notbecauseofthetortureinflictedonthehorsesandbulls,butbecauseshehadbeenfrightenedbythegreatbeasts,withtheirtossinghornsandfuriousbellowing.Hornsalwaysmadeherthinkofthedevil,shesaid.Fromherbabyhoodshehadbeenafraidofhorns.

Onedayamischievousimpulseledmetoinquire,inconnectionwithachatabouttheEscorial,"AndhowdoyoulikePhilipII?"

Theblackeyesshotonerayofsympatheticmerriment,buttheSpaniardandthenunwereontheirguard.

"HewasaverygoodCatholic,"shereplieddemurely.

"Sowas_IsabellaCatólica_,"Iresponded."Butdon'tyouthinkshemayhavebeenatriflemoreagreeable?"

"Perhapsshewasalittlemore_simpática_,"admittedthe_hermanita_,butthatwasherutmostconcession.ShewouldnotevenallowthatPhiliphadasorryend.

"Ifhisbodygroaned,hissoulwascommuningwiththeBlessedSaintsandpaidnoheed."

Atthecornerofthestreetwhichledunderthegreatgardenwalltotheheavilybarredgateoftheconventwasaflower-stand.Theshrewd,swift-tonguedMadameinchargewellknewthelookoftheunwary,andusuallysucceededinsellingmeaclusterofdroopingblossomsattwicethevalueofthefresh,throwinginanextraleaforstematthecloseofthebargainwithanairofprodigalbenevolence.Thehandfulofflowerswouldbesmilinglyacceptedbythelittlesister,butinstantlylaidasidenorfavoredwithglanceortouchuntilthecloseofthevisit,whentheywouldbeliftedagainwithawinsomewordofacknowledgmentandcarriedaway,probablytospendtheirsweetnessatthemarblefeetoftheVirgin.InvainItriedtocoaxfromthisscornerofGod'searthsomesignofpleasureintheflowersthemselves.

"Don'tyoucarefortea-roses?""_Ah,elmundopasa._Buttheircolorisexquisite."

Yethereyesdidnotturntothepoorposyforthetwohoursfollowing.

"Thismignonettehasonlythegraceofsweetness."

"Itisadelicatescent,butitwillnotlast._Elmundopasa._"

Sheheldthespraysatarm'slengthforamoment,andthenlaidthemdownonamantelatthefartherendoftheroom.

"Iamsorrythesevioletsarenotfresher."

"Butno!ThetouchofTimehasnotyetfoundthem.Still,itisonlyaquestionofto-morrow._Elmundopasa._"

"Yes,theworldpasses.Butisitnotgoodwhileitlasts?"

"Theworldgood!No,no,andathousandtimesno.Beholditnowattheendofthenineteenthcentury,--warsandsorrowsandbitter



discontents,evildeedsandevilpassionseverywhere.DoyouseethepeaceofChristinthefacesontheParisstreets?Theblossomsofthisearth,thepleasuresofthisworld,theaffectionsofthislife,allhavethetasteofdeath.ButhereinGod'sowngardenweliveevennowHiseverlastinglife."

"Youarealwaysgladofyourchoice?Younevermissthefriendsofyourchildhood?"

"Glad,glad,glad.Gladofmychoice.Gladtoseenomorethefacesoffatherandmother.Andforthem,too,itisgreatjoy.ForCatholicparentsitissupremedelighttogiveuptheirchildrentotheHolyChurch.Thewaysoftheworldarefullofslipperyplaces,butwhentheyleaveushere,theyknowthatourfeetaresetontheverythresholdofheaven."

Sometimestheslightformshiveredintheviolethabit,andthedarkforeignfacelookedoutwithtouchingwearinessfromitsframeofsoftwhitefolds.

"Youarecold?Youaretired?Willyoutakemycloak?Werethechildrentroublesometo-day?"

Itwasalwaysthesameanswer:"_Noimporta.Noimporta._Itmatters

not.Ourlifeisnotthelifeoffleshandblood."Andindeed,asIsawherintheChristmasserviceamongtheotherSpanishsisters,thoselovelyfiguresinwhiteandvioletmakingobeisancebeforethealtaruntiltheirveiledforeheadsalmosttouchedthepavement,bowingandrisingagainwiththemusiclikeafieldofliliesswayinginthebreeze,Ifeltthatshewasalreadyabeingofanotherworld,beforeshehadknownthis.Overherhadbeenchantedtheprayersforthedead.Thestrangeceremonyoftakingtheveilhadbeenherburialrite.Theconventseemedaghostlandbetweenearthandheaven.

My_hermanita_belongedtooneoftheteachingorders,anddespitethe

strangeblanksinherknowledge,forsecularlorehadbeen,sofaraspossible,excludedfromhereducation,shewasrepresentativeofthefinerandmoreintelligentclassofSpanishnuns.InGranadaIheardofthenunschieflyasthemakersofthosedelicious_dulces_,sugaredfruits,whichwereindispensabletoachild'ssaint-day,andthereIwastaughtthescoffingepitaph:--

"HereliesSisterClaribel,Whomadesweetmeatsverywell,Andpassedherlifeinpiousfollies,Suchasdressingwaxendollies."

[Illustration:THEROYALFAMILY]

TothespinsteroutsidethenunnerySpainhaslittletooffer.SmallheedispaidtoherexceptbySt.Elias,who,ononedayofHolyWeek,walksaboutallSevillewithapeninhishand,peeringupatthebalconiesandmakingnoteoftheoldmaids.SinceAndalusiaexpressesthetheoryofcounterpartsbysaying,"Everyonehassomewhereintheworldhishalforange,"thespinstercanhardlyhopeforawell-roundedlife.Careersarenotopentoher.Thereare"advancedwomen"inSpain,themosteminentbeingEmeliaPardoBazan,novelist,lecturer,editor,whoadvocatesforwomenequaleducationaland



politicalprivilegeswithmen,butwhohasnotyetsucceededinopeningthedoors.ThevoiceofSpanishwomen,nevertheless,issometimesheardbySpanishstatesmen,aswhendelegationafterdelegationofseñoraswhohadrelativesheldasprisonersbytheFilipinosinvadedthesenate-housewithpetitionsuntiltheycouldnolongerbeignored.

AmorethoroughandliberaleducationforSpanishwomenisthepressingneedto-day.Thereis,ofcourse,greatlackofprimaryschooling.Agirlinherlateteens,wearingtheprettiestofembroideredapronsandwiththereddestofrosesinherhair,onceappealedtomeinToledoforhelp.Shehadbeensentfromaconfectioner'stodeliveratrayofwheatenrollsatagivenaddress,andshecouldreadneitherthenamesofstreetsnorthenumbersofhouses.Butthehighereducationwillcarrythelowerwithit.Spainisdegenerateinthisregard.TheMoorsusedtohaveatCordovaanacademyforgirls,wherescience,mathematics,andhistoryweretaught.SchoolsforSpanishgirlsatpresentimpartlittlemorethanreadingandwriting,needle-work,thecatechism,thefourrulesofarithmetic,andsomeslightnotionofgeography.Frenchandmusic,recognizedaccomplishments,arelearnedbydaughtersoftheprivilegedclassfromtheirgovernessesorintheconvents.MissionaryworkinSpainhaslargelyconcerneditselfwiththeeducationalquestion,andMrs.Gulick'sprojectfortheestablishmentofawoman'scollegein

Madrid,acollegewithoutdistinctionofcreed,isthefruitoflongexperience.LittlebylittleshehasproventheintellectualabilityofSpanishgirls.SheestablishedtheInternationalInstituteatSanSebastian,securedStateexaminationforher_niñas_andStaterecognitionoftheireminentsuccess,andevenwonforafewofthemadmissiontotheUniversityofMadrid,wheretheymaintainedthehighestrankthroughoutthecourse.AllthatSpanishgirlsneedisopportunity.

Butiftheseñoritasaresocharmingnow,withtheirrosesandtheirgracesandtheirfans,whynotleavethemastheyare,apageofmediævalpoetryinthisstrenuousmodernworld?Ifonlytheyweredollsoutrightanddidnotsufferso!Whenlifegoeshardwiththese

high-spirited,incapablecreatures,itgoesterriblyhard.Icanseeyetthetearsscorchintheproudeyesofthreeundoweredsisters,slavingattheironeartofembroideryfromearlytilllateforthemiserablepittancethatitbroughtthem."Weshallrestwhenwearedead,"saidtheyoungest.Theabsolutelackoffutureforthesebrave,sensitivegirls,well-born,well-bred,naturallyaskeenasthekeenest,butmoreignorant,inmattersofcommoneducation,thanthechildrenofourlowestgrammargrade,isheart-breaking.Ifsuchgirlswerestupid,shallow,coarse,itwouldbeeasier;buttheSpanishtypeisfinelystrung.OnceIsawanimpulsivebeautyflyintothatgustofangrypassionwhichSpaniardstermthe_rabiaespañola_.Aclumsy,well-intentionedyoungAustrianhadsaidateasingword,andinthefractionofasecondthegirl,overwroughtwithsecrettoilsand

anxieties,wasinatempestoftears;butthewraththatblazedacrossthemburnedtheoffendercrimson.ThepoorfellowsentforhiscaseofchoiceAsturiancider,coolinginthebalcony,readtheeveningnewsaloudanddiscoursedonthevalueofself-control,butnoteventhesetactfulattentionscouldundo,forthateveningatleast,theworkofhisblunderingjest.Thegirlflashedawaytoherchamber,herhandkerchiefbittenthroughandthrough,andthequickfiercesoundofhersobscametomeacrossthehalldeepintothenight.

WanderingoverSpainIfoundeverywherethesewinning,vivid,helpless



girls,versedinneedleworkandsocialgraces,butknowingnexttonothingofhistory,literature,science,allthatpertainstointellectualculture.Somewerehungrytolearn.Moredidnotdreamoftheworldofthoughtasapossibleworldforthem.Amongtheseitwasdelightfultomeet,scatteredlikepreciousseedthroughoutthePeninsula,thegraduatesoftheInternationalInstitute.Sofarasastrangercouldsee,educationhadenhancedinthemtheSpanishradianceandcharm,whilearmingthesewithwisdom,power,andresource.

XXII

ACROSSTHEBASQUEPROVINCES

"TheOakTreeofGuernicaWithinitsfoliagegreenEmbracesthebrighthonorOfalltheBasquedemesne.Forthiswecounttheeholy,Ourancientsealandsign;Thefibresofourfreedom

Areinterlacedwiththine."Castile'smosthaughtytyrantsBeneaththysolemnshadeHavesworntokeepthecharterOurfearlessfathersmade;FornobleonourmountainsIshewhoyokestheox,AndequaltoamonarchTheshepherdoftheflocks."--_NationalSongoftheBasques._

ItdidnotseemtomehistoricallyrespectfultotakeleaveofSpainwithouthavingmadeapilgrimagetotheshrineofSantiago.Adauntlessfriendcrossedtheseatobearmecompany.Hygienicpilgrimthatsheis,shecameequippednotwithcockleshellsandsandalshoon,butwithsleepingbags,coffee,andcereals.Manyamorning,intraversingthosenorthernprovinces,wherethescenerywasbetterthanthebreakfast,weblessedherboxesof"grapenuts,"andmanyanight,doomedtopenitentialbeds,wewerethankfultointrenchourselvesagainstthestingsandarrowsofoutrageousinsectsinthosespaciouslinenbags,thatgathercloseabouttheneck,or,whendangersthicken,abovethehead,leavingonlyaloopholeforthebreath.

Ourpointofdeparturewasthatcityofnature'sfancy-work,San

Sebastian.Then,intheearlyhalfofJuly,itwasallalivewithexpectancy,lookingeverydayforthecomingoftheCourt.ItisreputedtobethecleanesttownofthePeninsula,andis,intruth,asbrightasawave-washedpebble.Nevertheless,itisafavoritewaltzhallofthefleas,whichshamelesslyobtrudethemselvesevenintoconversation.

ThechiefsummerindustryofSanSebastianissea-bathing.Thesoldiersbeginitatsixo'clockinthemorning,marchingbyregimentsdowntotheConcha,clearingforaction,andstrikingoutintothe



gentlesurf,allinsimultaneousobediencetosuccessivewordsofcommand.Sometwohourslaterteamsofoxendrawscoresofjauntybathingcarsdownnearthewhitelipofthisopalescentshellofwater,andtherethelongdaythroughallages,sizes,andranksofhumanitysportinthecurlingfoamorswimfaroutintothesparklingbay.

SanSebastianisthecapitalofGuipúzcoa,oneofthethreeBasqueprovinces.TheselieamongtheCantabrianmountains,andaredelightfullypicturesquewithwheat-growingvalleysandwell-woodedheights.Asthetrainwanderedon,initspensiveSpanishfashion,wefoundourselvesnowinScotland,inabeautifulwasteofheatherandgorse,nowamidtheEnglishivyandhawthorn,hearingthesongoftheEnglishrobin,andnowinourownNewEngland,withthehillyreachesofappleorchardsandthefieldsuponfieldsoftasselledIndianmaize.

TheBasquesareathriftyfolk,andhavecultivatedtheirscantacrestotheutmost.Thevalleysareplantedwithcorn,thelowerhillsareridgedandterracedforavarietyofcrops.Abovearewalnutsandchestnuts,andtheflintiestsummitsserveforpasturage.Itwascurioustoseemenatworkonthosesteepslopesthathadbeenscoopedoutintoasuccessionofnarrowshelves,andmorestrangeyettocatchglimpsesofpeasantsploughingtheverymountaintop,picturesque

figuresagainstthesky.Thereapingisofthecleanest.Theharvestfieldshaveaneat,scouredlook,asifthewomenhadbeenoverthemwithscrubbingbrushes.Yetthisutilitariansoiladmitsofoaksandbeeches,fernsandclover,morningglories,dandelions,pimpernel,anddaisies.

Allthatsunnymorningthetrainswungusblithelyonfromonecharmoftheeyestoanother--fromaruinedwatch-tower,wherered-handedCarlistshadcrouched,toabright-kerchiefedmaidensingingamidherbeehives;fromarangeofabruptpeaks,cleftbydeepgorges,tosycamore-shadedbywaysandpoplar-borderedstreams;fromavillagegraveyard,thepatheticlittleparallelogramenclosedinhighgray

wallsanddimwithcypressshadows,toatumbling,madcaptorrentspannedbyatime-gnawedRomanarch.Shootingtheheartofsomeblackhill,thetrainwouldrunoutonamereledgeaboveavalleyhamlet,andfrompureinquisitiveness,apparently,rambleallaroundthecircle,peeringdownfromeverypointofviewontheclusterofgreat,patriarchalhouses,sometimesoftimberandplaster,moreoftenofstone,wherewholeclansdwelltogetherunderthesamered-tiledroof.Queeroldhousesthese,occasionallytoppedwithbluechimneys,andnowandthenwithafantasticcoatofarmssculpturedoverthedoor,orafrescoofsaintsanddevilsblazonedallacrossthefront.Sometimesfreshlywhitewashed,theseBasquehouseshavemoreoftenaweather-worn,dingylook,but,howeverblackthetimbers,linesofcleanlinenflutterairilyfromroofsandbalconies.

Theyareadecent,self-respecting,prosperouspeople,theseBasquemountaineers,ofwhosehistorymycompaniontoldmestirringtales.Theyaresupposed,thoughnotwithoutdispute,tobetheoldestraceinEurope,descendantsofthoseoriginalIberianswhomthewestward-troopingAryansdroveintothefastnessesofthePyrenees.Theyhavetheirownlanguage,ofAsiatictype.TheythemselvesbelievethatitwasspokenintheGardenofEden.Therearesometwenty-fivedialectsofthe_Vascuense_,anditissodifficultforforeignersthatevenGeorgeBorrowspokeit"withconsiderablehesitation,"and



oneexhaustedstudent,abandoningthestruggle,declaredthatthewordswereall"writtenSolomonandpronouncedNebuchadnezzar."TheBasquesattributetheirhardyvirtuestothecrabbednessoftheirspeech,tellinghowthedevil,afterslavingovertheirvocabularyforsevenyears,hadsucceededinlearningonlythreewords,andthrewuphislessoninapet,sothattothisdayheremainsunabletomeddlewiththeirpeasantpiety.WhatlittleliteraturethereisintheBasquelanguageisnaturallyofthepopularcast--herosongs,dancingsongs,dirges,hymns,andfolk-lore.

TheBasquesarenotedfortheirpassionateloveofliberty.Thesturdypeasantislordofhisownruggedfarm,andinsistsontillingitinhisownprimitiveway,breakingthesoilwithrudemattockmoreoftenthanwithplough.AnEnglishengineer,layingarailroadthroughAlava,triedhisbesttomakehismenabandontheirslow,laboriousmethodofcarryingtheearthinbasketsontheirheads.Hefinallyhadallthebasketsremovedbynight,andwheelbarrowsleftintheirplaces.ButtheunalterableBasquessettheloadedwheelbarrowsontheirheads,andstaggeredaboutbeneaththeseawkwardburdensuntil,forveryshame,hehadtogivethembacktheirbaskets.

Thepeasantdrivesoverthemountainroadsinaponderousox-cart,withtwoclumsydisksofwoodforwheels.Theplatformiswroughtofrough-hewnbeams,fiveorseven,themiddleonerunningforwardto

serveaspole.Allthestructure,excepttheirontiresandnails,isofwood,andthesolidwoodenwheels,asthemassiveaxletowhichtheyarerivetedturnsoverandover,makeamosthorriblesqueaking.Itisasounddeartothepeasantry,fortheybelievetheoxenlikeit,and,moreover,thatitfrightensawaythedevil;butonceuponatimeatownofadvancedviewsvotedafineoffivedollarsforanymanwhoshouldbringthismusicalabominationwithinitslimits.ThereuponafreebornBasquerosewiththedawn,selectedhisbestcarvedoakenyoke,drapedthered-stainedsheepskinatriflemorecarefullythanusualabovethepatienteyesofhisgreatsmoothoxen,andtookhisway,"squeakity-squeak,squeakity-squeak,"straighttothedoorofthe _Ayuntamiento_,cityhall,wherehepaidhistwenty-five_pesetas_,andthendevotedtherestofthedaytodrivingallaboutthestreets,

squeakingouthismoney'sworth.Thisisnoserviletemper,anditwasnotuntilourowngenerationthatthedearlycherishedlibertiesoftheBasqueswerewrestedaway.

[Illustration:THEMANZANARES]

ThesewardersofthePyrenees,fortheBasquesofNavarreandthosenowknownasFrenchBasquesmustnotbeforgotten,didgoodserviceinhelpingtheVisigothsbeatbackthenorthward-pressingMoorsandthesouthward-pressingFranks;butwhentheBasqueprovincesofSpainwereincorporatedwithLeonandNavarre,andlaterwithCastile,themountaineersstoodstubbornlyfortheir_fuéros_,orpeculiarrights.

Mycomrade'slecturehadreachedthispoint,when,findingourselvesatAmorebieta,intheProvinceofVizcaya,orBiscay,wesuddenlydescendedfromthetrain,andhandedourbagstoanhonestBasqueporter,whodepositedthemonthefloorofanopenwaitingroom,infullreachofanhonestBasquepopulation.Forourselves,weturnedourfacestowardthecentreofVizcayanglory,thefamousTreeofGuernica.Weenteredarustictrain,thatseemedentirelyundecidedwhichwaytogo.Thestationagentblewalittletinhorn,greenmeadowsandwattledfencesbegantoglidepastthecarwindows,andtheinterrupteddiscoursewasresumed.



ThelawmakersofVizcayaweredulychosenbytheirfellow-nobles,foreveryBasqueheldtherankof_hidalgo_,or"sonofsomebody."ThedeputiesmeteverytwoyearsinthevillageofGuernica,sittingonstonebenchesintheopenairbeneaththesacredoak,andthereelectedthe_SeñoresdeVizcaya_.EventhekingsofSpainwereallowednograndertitle,buthadtocometotheTreeofGuernica,atfirstinperson,laterbydeputy,andtheresweartoobservethe_fuéros_.Tothisgreenshadowcamethepeasantfromhislonelyfarm-house,highonthemountainside,toanswerbeforehispeerstosuchchargesasmightbebroughtagainsthim;forwithinthesanctuaryofhishomethelawcouldlaynohandonhimorhis.

ItwastheCarlistwarsthatchangedallthis.The_fuéros_,ofwhichalistdatingfrom1342isstillextant,grantedtheBasqueprovincesaRepublicanConstitutionthatalmostrealizedanidealdemocracy,withimmunityfromtaxessavefortheirownneeds,andfrommilitaryservicebeyondtheirownboundaries.Butwhenthedynasticstrifebrokeout,theBasquesputonthewhitecapofDonCarlosandborethebruntoftheconflict.WehadalreadypassedthroughVergara,where,in1839,EsparteroendedthefirstCarlistwarbyatreatywhichcompelledtheBasquestolaydowntheirarms.Butthecostofthisrebellionwaspaidinblood.Theirpoliticalstatuswaspracticallyunaffected.AtthecloseofthesecondCarlistwar,in1876,Alfonso

XIIsignalizedhisvictorybymetingouttothematerriblepunishment,abrogatingtheprecious_fuéros_thattheTreeofGuernicahadguardedforsomanycenturies.TheGovernmentimposed,moreover,itssaltandtobaccomonopolies,andmadetheBasquessubjecttomilitaryconscription.AteverystationwesawSpain'sVizcayansoldiers,red-cappedandred-trousered,withblue-beltedfrockcoats,underwhichbeatheartsofdoubtfulloyalty.ThesonofAlfonsoXIIwillhavetoreckonwiththeBasques,whenthethirdCarlistwarshallbedeclared,butitmaybedoubtedwhetherthe_fuéros_,whichDonCarlos,ofcourse,promisestorestore,willevercomehometonestagainintheGuernicaOak.

Myeruditefellow-vagabondwasjustpointingoutthetypicalshapeof

theBasquehead,withitsbroadforehead,long,narrowingface,curvednose,andpointedchin,whenwereachedGuernica.Suchasweetandtranquilvillageasitis,setinthebeautyofthehills,withthedignityandpathosofitshistorypervadingeveryhushed,old-fashionedstreet!Theguide,whomtwoaffableladies,sharersofourcarriageinthelittlepicnictrain,hadtakenpainstolookupforusatthestation,wasnot,wejudged,afavorablespecimenofthehaughtyBasque_hidalgo_.Hewasadull,mumbling,slouchylad,whosunkhisvoicetoanawedwhisperaswepassedtheescutcheon-carvedpalaceofacount.Butheledusbypleasantwaystothemodern_CasadeJuntas_,orSenateHouse,wherewewereshowntheassemblyroom,withitsaltarformass,thelibraryandotherapartments,togetherwiththeportraitsofthetwenty-sixfirst_SeñoresdeVizcaya_,from

LopethePirate,whoforcedbacktheinvadingGaliciansin840,totheInfanteDonJuan,underwhomtheBasqueprovinceswerefinallyincorporatedwithCastile.

Closebythe_CasadeJuntas_,whichstandsinadreamybitofparkasfreshandtrimasanEnglishcathedralclose,risesapillaredportico.There,wherebrown-eyedlittleBasquegirls,theirbrownbraidsblowinginthebreeze,weredanglinggreenfigsabovetheirlaughingmouths,usedtosit,onthosesevenstoneseats,thegraveBasquefathers,makinglaws,metingoutjudgment,andregulatingall



theaffairsofthissimplemountainrepublic.Theportico,bearingasjointdevicesthelionandcastleofSpainandthethreewolvesofVizcaya,wasformerlyenvelopedintheleafyshadowoftheSacredTree;butwhatrisesbehinditnowisonlythegauntstemofapatriarchaloak,averyAbrahamofplants,allenclosedinglass,asifembalmedinitscasket.Beforetheportico,however,growsalustyscion,fortheTreeofGuernicaisofunbrokenlineage,shootsbeingalwayscherishedtosucceedincasethecenturiedpredecessorfail.

Inpresenceofthisdespoiledoldtrunk,majesticwithmemories,wefeltanhonestaweandlongedtogiveitadequatesalute.Mycomradelevelledherkodakandtookfrontviews,backviews,andsideviewswithsuchspendthriftenthusiasmthatthecustodian,deeplyimpressed,presentedherwithadriedleaffromthejunior,cunninglyprickedoutsoastosuggestthefigureofthetree.ThenationalsongoftheBasques,amatterofsomedozenstanzas,writtenprincipallyin"j's,""rr's,"and"tz's,"takesitstheme,ifonemaytrusttheCastiliantranslation,fromthissymbolicoak.

ThehistorianwishedtodonothingmoreinGuernicabutsitandgazeforeveronthatspectraltrunk,butthereminderthatpietywasahardlylessmarkedBasquecharacteristicthanpoliticalindependence,finallyinducedhertofollowourguidetothechurch.ABasquechurchhasitsdistinctivefeatures,includingabelfry,alofty,plain

interior,withgalleries,andoftenavotiveship,gaylypaintedandfullyrigged,suspendedfromtheceiling.Theladborehimselfwithsimple-mindeddevotion,offeringusonstubbyfingertipstheholywaterandmakingdueobeisancebeforeeachgildedshrine.

Butmyattentionwassoonfascinatedbyafoot-squarereliefonabluegroundofSantiago--

"GoodSaintJamesuponthemilkwhitesteed,WholeaveshisblisstofightforchosenSpain."

Ihadhardlyanticipatedsuchastalwart,vigorous,nottosayviolentsaint,withhiswhitehorsegalloping,hisgold-sandalledfeet

grippingthegreatstirrups,hisgold-fringed,crimsonrobeandazuremantlestreamingonthewind,histerribleswordglitteringhighinair.Thiswasclearlynotapersontobetrifledwith,andIlookedaboutforthehistoriantotellherthatwemustbepressingforwardonourpilgrimage.Butshehadstolenout,everysympatheticBasqueimageofthesculptureddoorwayconspiringtokeepastonysilenceandconcealherflight,andhadspedbacktotheTreeofGuernica,fromwhosecontemplationshewastornawayonlybyafairy-taleofsupper.

OftheseveralBasquechurcheswhichwevisited,includingthebridalchurchofLouisXIV,far-famedSanJuandeLuz,whosesidesandwestendareportionedoffbythreetiersofgalleries,fairestinmemoryisthesixteenth-centurychurchofBegoñainBilbao.Itabounds,as

coastchurchesshould,insuggestionsofthatmighty,mysteriousneighbor,atoncesocruelandsobeneficent,thesea.Insteadofvotiveships,thewallsarehungwithpaintingsofvesselsinscenesofappallingperil.Oneisscuddingmadlybeforeatropicalgale;onehasherriggingraggedbyhurricaneandherdeckslashedwithtempest;one,careeneduponherside,liesatthemercyofthebillows,whicharesweepingoverherandtumblinghercrewlikeninepinsintothedeep.Butthepresenceofthepictures,bolddashesofthemodernbrushamiddimoldpaintingsofsaintsandmartyrs,tellsthatOurLadyofBegoñasuccoredhersailorsindistress,who,ontheirsafe



return,camehithertoofferthanksfortheirpreservationandtoleavethesemementosoftheirdangerandherefficientaid.

"IsyourVirginsoverypowerful?"weaskedofachoristerboywhilehedrewthecordstopartthecurtainsthatscreenedthejewelledimagethronedinarecessabovethehighaltar.

"Ishouldratherthinkshewas,"answeredthelittlefellowinaglow."Why,letmetellyou!Robbers,theaccursedones,camehereonadarkmidnighttostealherpreciousstones.Theyenteredbyawindow,thosesonsofwretchedmothers,andputupalongladderagainstthealtarwall.Thewickedestofthemall,señoras,heclimbedtheladderandraisedhishandtotakeOurLady'scrown.Andinthatinstantthegreatbellsoverheadbegantoring,andallthebellsofallBilbaopealedwiththem,andthepeoplewakedandcamerunningtotherescueofOurLady,andtherobberswereputtodeath."

Ourexpressiondidnotquitesatisfyhisboyishardor,andhepointedconvincinglytowardahandsomesilverplaque."Andthis,too,witnessesOurLady'spower.Itwasgiveninmemoryofthecholeratime,whenpeopleweredyinglikefliesinallthetownsabout.ButafterOurLadywascarriedinprocessionthroughthestreetsofBilbao,notonediedhere,exceptasinfulmanwhowouldnotturnhisheadtolookuponher."

"Thatisapaintingoftheprocession,thelargepictureoverthereonthewall?"

"No,no,señoras.ThatpicturecommemoratesanotherofOurLady'swonderfuldeeds.Thefloodswerethreateningthecity,butOurLady,withmanycensersandcandles,wasbornedowntotheriverbank,andsheorderedthewatertogoback,anditobeyedher,andallthetownwassaved."

Weretreatedtothecloisters,fromwhichonehasasuperbviewofthevalleyoftheNervion,forOurLadyofBegoñadwellshighuponahilltop.OnlytheafternoonbeforewehadbeeninsereneGuernica,a

strangecontrasttothisminingcapitalofVizcaya,thisbustling,noisy,iron-grimedBilbao,inwhichtheBasquestakesuchdelight.Itisnotacitytogratifythemeretourist,whoexpectsthepeopleofthelandsthroughwhichheispleasedtopasstodevotethemselvestolookingpicturesque.ButevenSpainissomethingmorethanfoodforthekodak,andthissootyatmosphereofsmeltingworksandfactories,trafficandcommerce,meanslifetoSpanishlungs.ItislittletomycreditthatItookmoreinterestinthefactthatBilbaousedtosupplyShakespeare'scronieswithrapiers,underthenameof"bilboes,"thaninstatisticsregardingthosemillionsoftonsoforewhichitsironminesarenowannuallyexportingtoGreatBritain.ThemanyEnglishinBilbao,minersandartisans,withtheinfluencetheyshedaroundthem,makethestreetsrougheranduglierthaninpurely

Spanishtowns.Ontheotherhand,theybringaspiritofreligiousindependence,sothatitisnotstrangetofindtheSpanishProtestantsofBilbaoanumerousandvigorousbody,countingasapronouncedelementinthecommunity.

FromtheidlepeaceoftheBegoñacloisters,asfromtheold-timeworld,welookedlongonthisSpanishcityofto-day,seethingwithmanifoldactivities.Weseemedtounderstandhow,tothemiddle-classSpaniard,hemmedinbyallthismediævalencumbranceofbarracks,cathedrals,castles,andthrones,suchcitiesasBilbaoandBarcelona,



pulsingwithindustrialenergyandenterprise,are"morebeautifulthanBeauty'sself."TheBasques,liketheCatalans,takereadilytobusiness.Theysettheirmountaincascadestoturningmill-wheels,theycanaltheirlittleNerviontillitcangivepassagetoshipsoffourthousandtonsburden,theypaintthenightwiththeflareofmightyfurnaces.Everyyeartheyarebuildingmorewharves,morerailroads,moreelectrictramways,andtheyaresoprodigiouslyproudoftheirnewironbridge,withitsflyingferry,whichwhiskspassengersoverfromPortugaletetoLasArenasattherateoftwohundredaminute,thattheystampitontheircharacteristicjewelry.ThatcunningEibarworkoftheBasqueprovincesdisplaysagainandagain,onlocket,bracelet,brooch,thisincongruousdesignofthe _PuenteVizcaya_beatenonchasedsteelingold.

Welookedregretfullyoutoverthosesignificantreachesoflandwhichwewouldhavelikedtoexploretothelasthearthstone.TheBasqueprovinces!WehadnotevensetfootinVitoria,thecapitalofAlava,whereispreservedthegrimold_machete_bywhichBasquegovernorswereswornintooffice."Maymyheadbecutoffwiththisknife,"rantheoath,"ifIdonotdefendthe_fuéros_ofmyfatherland."

Andwelongedtoattendoneofthepeasantfestivals,toseetheladsplay_pelota_andthelassesstepBasquedancestothemusicofthevillagepipers,tohearthewildoldmarchesandbattletunesthat

haverousedtheRomanandtheMoortoarms.ThemysteryplaysoftheBasqueswerefamousonce,andalthoughthesenaivedramasarenowmainlyconfinedtoChristmasandEaster,whocouldsaythatwemightnotchanceonsomesaint-dayfragment?Therewassoontotakeplace,too,inoneoftheVizcayanhamletsa"blessingofthefields,"aprocessionalharvestriteofpaganantiquity,formerlyuniversalinSpain,butnowconfinedtoafewruraldistricts.Wehadahundredreasonsforlingering--butwhatarereasons?PilgrimsofSt.JamesmustputfreshpeasintheirshoesandbeoffforCompostela.

[Illustration:SPANISHCEMETERY]

XXIII

INOLDCASTILE

"WiththreethousandmenofLeonfromthecityBernardgoes,ToprotectthesoilHispanianfromthespearofFrankishfoes;Fromthecitywhichisplantedinthemidstbetweentheseas,TopreservethenameandgloryofoldPelayo'svictories.

"Thepeasanthearsuponhisfieldthetrumpetoftheknight,--Hequitshisteamforspearandshieldandgarnitureofmight;

Theshepherdhearsit'midthemist,--heflingethdownhiscrook,Andrushesfromthemountainlikeatempest-troubledbrook."--LOCKHART:_SpanishBallads_.

ThejourneyfromBilbaotoSantanderisacontinuousgloryofmountainviews.Thetrainrunssaucilyalongunderbeetlingcrags,whencethegodsofthehillsmaywelllookdowninwonderanddispleasureonthisnoisyinvasionoftheirsolitude.Wealmostsawthoseancientmajestiesfoldingthemselvesgrandlyinmantlesofpurpleshadow,but



hardlylessroyalinbearingwerethemuffledfiguresofthelonelyshepherdstendingtheirflocksontheverysummits.

ThemodernProvinceofSantanderistherenownedMontaña,themountainlairwhichnourishedthechivalryofOldCastile,andfromwhichtheymadewildsalliestothesouth,troopaftertroop,generationaftergeneration,untiltheMoorishstandardswerebeatenbackfromtheplainsaboutToledototheSierrasofAndalusia.Itscapitalcity,Santander,namedfromSt.Andrew,wasoneofthefourcoasttownswhichrenderedsignalservicetoFernandointheconquestofSeville.Thesetowns,lyingastheydidoveragainsttheCinquePortsofEngland,cameintosofrequentconflictwithBritishmarinersastobemadeinthedaysofEdwardIIIthesubjectofaspecialtreaty.

Asummerresort,however,isasummerresorttheworldover,andwefoundthehistoriccity,whichhasgracefullyfitteditselftothecurveofitsbeautifulbay,crowdedwithidlepeople,elaboratelydressed,whosatlongatthenoondaybreakfast,andlongeryetattheeveningdinner,andthenlongestofallonthebenchesinthepark,wherebandsclashedandfireworksflared,untiltheverystarsbegantoblinkforsleepiness.

Spaniardshaveaveritablepassionforpyrotechnics,andourdreamsuntilthedawnwouldbepunctuatedbytheairyreportofrockets,as

if,soGaldóssuggests,"theangelswerecrackingnutsinthesky."Everynowandtheninthosesoftwarmnightsthereroseashoutofsongfromthestreet,andpeepingdownfromthebalcony,wewouldseehalfadozenladsandlassesleapingalongthroughthemiddleoftheroad,allabreastandhandinhand,inoneoftheirboisterouspeasantdances.

TherearenofewerdangersandsorrowsforgirlsinSpainthanintheotherLatinlands.Inthelow-vaulted,mighty-pillared,deep-shadowedcryptundertheoldcathedral,acryptthatistheveryhauntofreligiousmysteryanddread,wecameuponapenitentkneelingbeforethealtar,abitofwrittenpaperpinnedtoherback.Inastirofthechillairthisflutteredtotheground,andasshe,unconsciousof

itsloss,bowedherselfbeforeanothershrine,wepickedupthepaperwithahalfthoughtofrestoringit;butseeinginthefirstglancethatitwasarudelywrittenprayer,entreatingtheVirgin'spityandpardonforherloverandherself,weletitfallagainatMary'sfeet.Allmannerofthank-offerings,waxenlimbs,eyes,andears,werehunginthesecandle-litrecesses,littlespacesofgoldamidthegloom.Wehadgrownaccustomedtosuchfragmentsofanatomyintheshop-windows,whereevenvotivestomachsaredisplayedforsale.

AlthoughSantanderisadawdler'sparadise,theresidentsofthecitytowhomwehadletterswerenoholidaymakers,butSpaniardsoftheearnest,thoughtful,liberaltype,busywithlargetasksoftheirown,butnevertoobusy,beingSpaniards,toshowunstintedkindnesstothe

strangerswithintheirgates.Ourbriefstaydidnotadmitofatitheoftheexcursionstheyhadinmindforus,butmycomradeachievedatriptoSantillanadelMar,birthplaceofthedoughtyGilBlas.

Inthelatestversionofheradventures,shesetforthfromSantanderunderthebluestofskies,incompanywiththemostbewitchingofseñoritas.TheyleftthetrainatTorrelavega,wheretheshadeofGarciLaso,oneofKingPedro'svictims,woulddoubtlesshavewelcomedthem,hadnottheirattentionbeentakenupwithapicturesquecoachman,whowasstandingdreamilyonthestationplatform.This



Adonisprovedacompleteparagon,who,astheytooktheirromanticcourseoverthehills,delightedlypointedoutiviedtower,brokenportcullis,andthelike,astidbitsforthekodak.

SantillanaistheshrineofSantaJuliana,aRomanmartyr,whosebodyissaidtohavebeencarriedthitherintheninthcentury.Herdevoteesamongthemountainwildsbuiltherinthisgreenvalley,overhungbyarudeoldfortress,apreciouschurch,ajeweloftheearlyRomanesque,aboutwhosewallsathrivingcommunitysoongathered.SantillanawasthroughouttheMiddleAgesthemostimportantplacebetweenBurgosandOviedo,andgavenametoallthatpartoftheMontaña.ThesuccessiveMarquisesofSantillanawerethengreatpersonagesinSpain,playingaleadingpartatCourt.OneoftheproudestfamiliesofOldCastile,theyclaimeddescentfromtheCid,andcherishedthememoryofanotherheroicancestor,who,in1385,sacrificedhislifetosavehisking.

"'Yourhorseisfaint,myKing,myLord!yourgallanthorseissick,--Hislimbsaretorn,hisbreastisgored,onhiseyethefilmisthick;Mount,mountonmine,Omountapace,Ipraytheemountandfly!OrinmyarmsI'llliftyourGrace,--theirtramplinghoofsarenigh!

*****

"'Nay,neverspeak;mysires,LordKing,receivedtheirlandfromyours,Andjoyfullytheirbloodshallspring,sobeitthinesecures;IfIshouldfly,andthou,myKing,befoundamongthedead,HowcouldIstand'monggentlemen,suchscornonmygrayhead?'

*****

"SospakethebraveMontañez,Butrago'slordwashe;Andturnedhimtothecominghostinsteadfastnessandglee;

Heflunghimselfamongthem,astheycamedownthehill,--Hedied,Godwot!butnotbeforehisswordhaddrunkitsfill."

ThecityofSantillana,whoselordsoncelaidclaimtothesovereigntyofSantander,hasshrunktoaforgottenvillage,andtheneglectedchurchisdroppingintoruins;buttheinhabitantshaveabatednotajotofthatfiercelocalpatriotismwhichblindstheprovincialSpaniardtoalldefectsofhisbirthplaceandtoallexcellencesofrivaltowns.AgraybeardtoldthestrangerladiesthatSantillanawastheoldestcityinSpainanditscathedralthemostbeautiful.Thislatterstatementtheywerealmostreadytoaccept,sorichlycarvenwastheyellowstoneandsoharmonioustheproportionsofnaveandaisle.WhentheyarrivedatthisminiatureDurhamtheyfounditclosed

andsilent,withthreelittleboyssleepingonthesteps.ThroughthebenevolenceoftheeverpresentSpanishloafers,thesacristanwassoughtoutandaraggedescortformedfortheirprogressfromchapeltochapel,whererareoldpicturesandfrescosglowedacrossthedusk.Bestofallwerethevenerablecloisters,weed-grownandtumble-down,butlovelyasamediævaldreamwithmellow-tintedarchandcolumn,andwithcapitalsofmarvellousdevice.Thiscrumblingchurchstillkeepsadazzlinghoardoftreasures.Allthefrontofthehighaltariswroughtofsolidsilver,thereredosisamiracleofart,andthepaintingsofoldmastersthatmoulderhereunseenwouldlongsincein



anyotherlandthanCatholicSpainhavebeenthespoilsofgalleryandmuseum.

Thecathedralstandsjustoutsidethetown,whosenarrow,crookedstreetsdauntedthecarriage;buttheseenthusiasticsightseerswereallthebetterpleasedtofoottheflaggingthatmanyaclinkingtreadhadwornandtotouchoneitherside,withtheirextendedhands,thefortresslikehousesbuiltofheavystoneanddimlyemblazonedwithfiercearmorialbearings.Thesegrimdwellingsweregladdenedbythegraceofvine-cladbalconies,wherechildrenfrolickedandwomencroonedquaintmelodiesovertheirneedlework.

"Willnoonetellmewhatshesings?PerhapstheplaintivenumbersflowForold,unhappy,far-offthingsAndbattleslongago."

TheinnwasmerelythecustomarySpanish_venta_,roughandpoor,thedarknessofwhoselong,lowroomcloudsoftobaccosmokefromclumpsofgamblingmuleteersweremakingblackeryet;butlemonadewasservedtotheladiesintheopenporchwithacharmofcordialcourtesyfarbeyondDelmonico's.

Astheyquaffedthismodestrefreshmentandwatchedtheshifting

groupsaboutthe_venta_,whichseemedthecentreofthesociallife,theresuddenlyappeareduponthesceneaghostfromthemodernworld,aneverydaygentlemaninastrawhat,ascitifiedanduptodateasifhehadthatmomentsteppedoutofaMadridcafé.Alltheloungerswithinandwithoutthe_venta_sprangtotheirfeet,baredtheirheads,andbowedlowtothisanachronismwithsoprofoundadeferencethatthetouristsbegantowonderiftheirrepressibleGilBlashadcomealiveagain.Nothe!ThiswastheMarquisofSantillana,bearingunderhisarminsteadofaswordabundleofnewspapers.ThefirstMarquisofSantillanahadbeenafamouswarriorandtroubadour.Thislatest"inheritorofoldrenown,"seatinghimselfinthemidstofhisthrongingvassals,graciouslyproceeded,muchlikeaUniversityExtensionlecturer,toreadaloud,withsimpleexplanations,thenews

oftheday.Suchisthefinalformof_noblesseoblige_inthefeudalvalleyofSantillana.

WeweretemptedtohuntoutothernooksandeyriesinthemountainsofSantander,toseesomethingofthefamoussardinefisheries,todrivealongthemany-storiedcoastallthewaytoGijon,payingourrespectsinpassingtoanobleoakofAsturias,oneofthethreelargesttreesofEurope;butalwaystheupliftedswordofSt.Jamesdroveuson.IfwewouldreachCompostelainseasonfortheannual_fiestadeSantiago_,therewasnotimetolose.So,indefaultofanearerrailwayconnection,westartedduesouthforPalencia.Ourrouteranatfirstthroughalandofhills,maize,andstonewallsthatmighthavebeenNewEngland,exceptforthewomenscratchingawayinthe

hay-fields,andpolitelysalutingthetrainwithaflourishoftheirpitchforks.

ThenmoreandmorethelandscapebecameSpanish.Littlestonehamletsdozedinevershallowervalleys,muletrainsandsolitaryhorsemenmovedslowlydownpoplar-borderedhighways,whiteaschalk;therewasaslumberingpeasantforeveryspeckofshade.Butwhilethementooktheirsiestas,oftensleepingwherethedrowsinesshadbefallenthem,witharmthrownaboutthewoodenploughorwithheadpillowedonthethrashingroller,therewerealwayswomenatwork--figurescladinthe



verycolorsoftheharvest,redandgoldandpurple,bindingsheaves,sweepingthefieldswithstoutbrushbrooms,tendingflocksandherdsbytherivers,followingstraysheepoverthehills,withonlyahandkerchiefatthemosttoprotecttheirheadsfromtheterriblenoondaysun.Astheafternoonworeon,wefoundourselvesinthemelancholyreachesofbrownCastilianplain,withtheadobetowns,themiserablemudvillages,open-airthreshingfloors,andarid,silent,Orientallook.

[Illustration:TOLEDO]

Theonlycloudinsightwasthatwhichrestedforamomentonmycomrade'sface.ShehadsonewlycomefromourcleanandwholesomefatherlandthatcertainfeaturesoftheSpanishinnsstillshookherhighserenityofsoul,andshehadsuddenlydiscoveredthatBaedekersignificantlycharacterizedthePalenciahotelas"anindifferentSpanishhouse."Inthediscreetlanguageofourexcellentguidebookthiswasnolessthananoteofwarning,asignalofalarm.ButevenBaedekerisfallible,andonarrivingatthe_GranHotelContinental_,weweremetbyalltheCastiliandignityandgravekindlinessofgreeting,andledtoroomswhosefloorsshonewithoilandscrubbing,whosecurtains,towels,andsheetingwerewhiteasmountainsnow,andwhosefurnishingswereresplendentwithtwodozenchairsupholsteredinorangesatin.Weseatedourselvesinraptureononesaffronthrone

afteranother,drankfreshmilkfrompolishedglasses,andslept,forthisonlynightofallourSantiagopilgrimage,thesleepoftheunbitten.Asweet-voiced_sereno_intoningthehourssetourdreamstomusic.

Thefollowingmorningwespentinthecathedral,which,thoughofplainexterior,exceptforthemany-imaged"DooroftheBishop,"isalllightness,grace,andsymmetrywithin.Theorganwaspealingandwomenwerekneelingforthemassaswewentsoftlydownthehigh-vaultednave,ourspiritsplayeduponnowbythedignityofpointedarchesandofclusteredcolumnsandnowbydelicatebeautiesintraceryandcarving.Onlyhereandtherewereweawareofajarringnote,asinchancinguponagreatcrucifixwhoseChristwasdecked

outintwoelegantlacepetticoatsandawhitesilkcrinolineembroideredoverwithsilverthread.

Whenthechanthaddiedaway,anaffectionateoldsacristan,inacuriousredandblackcoat,delivereduswithsundryfarewellpatsandpinchesovertothechargeofasubordinate,whoproceededtodisplaythehiddentreasures.Thesearefarfromoverwhelming,aftertheglitteringhoardsofBurgos,Seville,andToledo,buttheyareasoddanassortmentassacristyeversheltered.TherewasanabsurdportraitofCharlesI,afreakofforeshortening.Atfirstsightitseemedtobetheskeletonofafish,butonviewingitthroughapeepholethecreaturehadbecomeahumanface.Evenso,itwashardlyaflatteringlikenessofthefounderoftheAustrianline;butasitwasCharlesI

whostrippedPalenciaofheroriginalpowersanddignities,onewouldnotexpecttofindhimcomplimentedhere.

Weturnedourattentiontothevestments,which,thoughfew,arepeculiarlyartistic,withdevices,stitchedingoldthreadandinjewelredsandgreens,ofpomegranates,roses,ecclesiasticalcoatsofarms,angels,Maries,Nativities,andAdorations.Thesewereappropriateenough,butevenourreservedconductor,amonasticyouthwhoworeawhite,openworktunicoverhisblacksuit,smileddisdainfullyasheputbeforeusatime-yellowedivoryboxarabesqued



withmenandlions,thejewelcasketofsomepetsultana."Butwhyshoulditbehere?"Heshruggedhisshoulders."Intruth,itisnotholy--awoman'sthing!NordoIknowhowitcametous,butwhatwehavewekeep."

Thesacristycertainlyseemstohavekeptmorethanitsshareof _custodias_.Ourguidefirstbroughtoutadaintystructure,wheregrievingangelsupliftthecross,andtheSufferer'shaloiswroughtofpearlsandgems.Thiswasreplacedbyanother,amarvelofgoldsmith'scraft,turretedandcrocketedwithfinegold,whileallaboutthebasearefiguredAnnunciations,Visitations,andothermysteries.Richastheywere,neitherofthesecouldcomparewiththatfamouspyxoftheEscorial,inlaidwithtenthousandpreciousstones.Thenourconductortookuswithamightyturningofmonsterkeys,pullingofrustybolts,andfallofclangingchains,toseethesupreme_custodia_ofall,onegreatdazzleofsilverfromfrettedbasetodomeandpinnacle,saveasamongtheCorinthiancolumnsofthefirststageglistengoldenformsoftheApostles,andofthesecond,wingedshapesofcherubimandseraphim.Thisshiningtower,somethreeorfourcenturiesold,isbeheldbyPalenciaonlyonCorpusChristiDay,when,holdingatitsheartthegoldenmonstrancewhichholdstheHost,itpassesasatriumphalcarthroughoutthecity.Priestswalkingoneithersidemakeafeintofdrawingitbytasselledcords,but"littlewoulditbudgeforthat,"saidourguide,inhighdisdain,

openingadoorintheframebeneathtorevealthebencheswherestrongmensitconcealedandtoilatamotorcrank.Hehadmuchmoretoshowus,includingpreciousoldtapestriesoftheNetherlands,andaSt.KatharinebyZurbarán,withalightonthekneelingfigureaspureandbrightasamoonbeam;butwehadtopressthefeeonhisCastilianpride,whenatlastthevulgarityofluncheonsummonedusaway.

Forthehistorian,baskinginthislastsmileofcivilization,theafternoonpassedblissfullyamongtheorangechairs,butIsalliedforthoncemore,attendedbyourbenignantlandlady.TheraysofthesunflasheddownlikedeadlyarrowsandIhadpleadedforacarriage,butlongedtobegitspardonwhenitcame,sofaded,rheumatic,andyetaugustwasthatfatoldchariot,groaningandtotteringasit

rolled,butloweringthepompofavelvet-carpetedstaircasewheneverwedesiredtoalight.

Ourprogressmadeagrandsensationinthosedrowsystreetsandsquares,aretinuesoongathered,andnobodyseemedsurprisedwhen,afteraroundofJesuitandDominicanchurches,wedrewupbeforethemadhouse.Ihadwishedtolookuponthisbuilding,becauseitisreputedtohavebeenadwellingoftheCid;buttheheroofCastilewasasunknowntomygentleescortastothemedicalpriestwhomshemustneedscallforthtomeetme,ortothehaplesslunaticswhomhe,inturn,insistedonmyseeing.Atownwhichhadforgottenitschiefcitizennaturallyfailstokeeponsalephotographsofitscathedral,sowepackedourmemoriesindefaultofanythingmoresubstantialand

tooktheeveningtraintothenorthwest.

Fourhoursofhushed,moonlitplain,andthenLeon!Thisisanameofthrillingmemories,andwesteppedoutintothemidnightsilenceofthatonceroyalcapitalwhosekingdom"stretchedfromtheAtlanticOceantotheRhone,"soawedthatevenarickety'bus,andasmugglerwhotriedtohidehistrunkbehindourhonestluggage,hardlybrokethespell.Mycomrade,stillnewtoSpanishways,hadfearsthattheillustratedcardwhichIhadforgottentostampwouldnothavereachedthehotel.SheaskedmewhyIdidnottelegraph;butsomedayslater,



whenwesentatelegramatnoon,tookaway-trainatfive,andreachedourdestinationatten,simultaneouslywiththetelegramwhichImightaswellhavebroughtinmypocket,shewassetfreefromNewWorldprejudices.Theunstampedcardwentthroughwithoutquestion,apictureofaprettymountainmaidbeingquiteasacceptabletothepostalclerksastheportraitoftheiryoungking.

Wewereexpectedatthehotel,thebestintown,butsodirtyandmalodorousthatwewouldbetterhavecampedunderthestars.Therehadbeensomeattempttosweepthefloorofourdingychamber,aswecouldseebycomparingitwithstairsandcorridors.Sourmilkandsourbreadwereservedwithacompensatingsweetnessofmanner,buttheexperiencesofthatnightbelongtooblivion.

Thejoyofthemorning!Guidedbyashylittlescullerylad,smoochedoffaceandraggedofraiment,butwithalltheinstinctsofacavalier,westeppedoutintothosestatelystreets,withtheirhaughtyoldhouses,balconies,coatsofarms,arches,andbattlements,asintoananimatedpicturebook.ItwasSaturday,andthetownwasallastirwithpeasantscometomarket,everypeasantasgoodasaromance.Suchbrightnessoffiguredkerchiefs,homespunpetticoats,trunkhose,jackets,sashes!Thelittlegirlswerequaintestofall,dressedpreciselyliketheirmammas,eventothosebrilliantskirtsedgedwithonecolorandslashedwithanother.Manyofthewomenwere

carryingloadsofgreens,otherspluckedfowls,andsomehadindignantchickens,infullpossessionofchickenfaculties,snuggledunderthearm.

Asthechiefcityinafarreachofluxuriantplain,Leonbecomesthefocus,everySaturday,offlocksofsheep,drovesofpigs,andherdsofcattle,togetherwithinnumerablemulesanddonkeysbringingingrain,fruit,andallmannerofgardenproduce.Wechanceduponthemarketitselfinthearcaded_PlazaMayor_,undershadowofthetoweredcourt-house,withthetaperingspireofthecathedraloverlookingall.Thegreatsquarehummedlikeabeehiveandsparkledwithshiftingcolorlikeafieldofbutterflies.Wefoundourselvesfirstinthebreadmarket.Underwideumbrellasofcanvassetonpoles

womenwereperchedhighonwoodenbenches,withtheirgaylyshodfeetsupportedonstools.Besideeachwoman,onherrudeseat,wasabrightlywovenbasketheapedwiththehornySpanishloaves.Closebywasthefruitmarket,withitspilesofredandpurpleplums,pears,grapes,greenpeppers,lemons,and,beyond,patchesofmelons,cucumbers,cabbages,potatoes,beans,andthatstaffofSpanishlife,chickpease,or_garbanzos_.

Themeatmarketappearedtobeitinerant.Amaninblueblouse,shortbrownbreeches,anddove-coloredhoseadornedwithgreentassels,wasleadingacowbyitscrumpledhorn;anoldwoman,withgiantsilverhoopsinherears,alavendershawlknottedaboutherbody,herscarletskirtwellslashedsoastoshowthegambogepetticoat

beneath,andsoshortforallitspurplefrillastodisplaytheclockworkofhervariegatedstockings,wascarryingablacklamb,nestledlikeababyinherarms;anotherwalkingrainbowborealiveturkey;andalad,whoserosy-huedkerchief,shawl,andsashfloatedlikesunrisecloudsabouthim,balancedonhiserectyoungheadanimmensebasketofeggs.Therewasapotterysection,too,--squarerodsofcups,plates,andjarsinallmannerofrussettintsandgracefulshapes.

Thevariousdivisionswereintermingledandblentintoonegreat



open-airmarket,thecheeriestsortofneighborhoodpicnic,wheregossip,jest,andlaughterwereaccompaniedbythecacklingoffowls,brayingofdonkeys,andcooingofbabies.Hereflutteredacolonyofbantamscast,theirlegswelltied,downonthecobble-stones;therestoodcartsladenwithbunchesoftheyellowishdriedheather;heretwopatientoxenhadlaidthemselvesoutforasnooze;thereawickedlittleasswasblinkingatthegreens;heresquattedadamselingoldkerchief,garnetbodice,andberylskirt,weighingoutfreshfigs;theresatacobblerpeggingawayathisstall,hispatronswaitingwithbarefeetwhilehemendedtheirshoes;standsofcheeses,coopsofchickens,childrensleepingamongthesacksofgrain,aboywavingarodonwhichwasstrungagorgeousassortmentofgarters;loiteringsoldiers,limpingbeggars,bargainingladiesattendedbytheirmaids,allgavenotestotheharmony.Yetwithallthattrampling,smallweedsweregrowinggreenamidtheslipperystonesthatpavethesquare.

TheLeonpeasantryissaidtobethefinestinallSpain,andsurelynoconcourseofpeoplecouldhavebeenmorehonest,courteous,anddignifiedthanthis.Thewomenworeornamentedwalletsbeneaththeskirt,andwarnedusgravelyagainstcarryingmoneyinexposedpockets;butwemovedfreelyamongthepresswithnotebookandkodak,alwaysthecentreofcuriousgroups,andourpurseswerenottouched.Indeedwefounditdifficulttospendevena_peseta_,somodestwere

theprices.Foraslargeajarasourlittlesquirecouldwellcarrywepaidthevalueofthreecents.Themenoftenrebukedthechildrenforstaringandquestioning,butstoodthemselvesatgaze,andaskedusfranklywhatwewereabout.Whenwerepliedthatwehadneverseensobeautifulamarket,andweretakingnotesandphotographsthatwemightnotforget,thepeasantssmilinglypassedthewordfromonesideofthe_plaza_totheother,andall,eventothechiefofpolice,whowasstruttingaboutwavinganunnecessarystaff,wereeagertoofferinformationandtopointoutpicturesquesubjects.

Butthemorningwasslippingaway,andwehadalmostforgottentheoracleofaSpanishgentlemaninPalencia:"Leonhasthreesightsforthevisitor,andonlythree--theCathedral,SanIsidoro,andSan

Marcos."Weproceededtotaketheseillustriouschurchesinorder.TheLeonCathedral,closelyanalogoustotheGothicmasterpiecesofnorthernFrance,isfarbeyondallpoorpraisesofmine.Nowinprocessofrepairandstrippedofthegarishshrinesofmodernworship,itmaybeenjoyedpurelyasarchitecture--atempleofhighbeauty.Letartiststellofitstowersandfinials,flyingbuttresses,gables,cornices,galleries,piers,façades.Yetoneneednotbeanartisttodelightintheglowofitsgreatrosewindows,ortospendfascinatedhoursporingoverthechiselledstorybookofportals,stalls,andcloisters.Suchinimitableglass,burningstillwiththefervorsofthemediævalfaith!Andsuchaworldofdivinityandhumanity,evendowntochildishmischief,inthosemultitudinouscarvings!ThePassionscenesarerepeatedoverandover,creationand

judgmentarethere,thelife,death,andascensionoftheVirgin,herolegends,animalfables,andfolk-lore.Gothicenergyisabundantlymanifest.St.Georgesmitesthedragon,St.Michaeltramplesthedevil,Samsonsplitsthelion'sjaws,andSantiago,carvedinebonyonadoorinthemellow-huedoldcloisters,isridingdowntheMoorswithsuchcontagiousfurythattheverytailofhishorseistwistedintoaferociousquirk.Onangel-guardedtombspicturesofancientbattle,murder,vengeance,aregraveninthelong-rememberingstone.Butmarblebirdspeckatthemarblefruit,theivorypeasantdriveshispigs,thealabastershepherdwatcheshisflock,thelad



leadshisdonkey,themonkfeedsthepoorattheabbeygates,andplumpstonepriests,stowedawayinshadowyniches,makemerryoverthewine.

[Illustration:TOLEDOCATHEDRAL.DOOROFLIONS]

Ifwehadrevelledovermuchintheartvaluesofthecathedral,SanIsidoroadministeredapromptcorrective.ThisRomanesquechurch,datingfromthebeginningoftheeleventhcenturyandaforerunneroftheEscorialinthatitwasfoundedbythefirstFernandoofCastileasaroyalmausoleum,isexcessivelyholy.Notmerelyarethebonesofthepatronsaintkeptonthehighaltar,buttheHostisonconstantexhibitionthere.Unawareoftheseespecialsanctities,wewerequietlywalkingtowardthechoir,whenanangryclamorfrombehindcausedustoturn,andthere,stretchingtheirheadsoutovertherailingofanuppergallery,wasalineoffuriouspriests.Invainthesacristanstrovetoexcuseus,"foreignersandladies,"whodidnotknowthatwewereexpectedtofalluponourkneesonfirstenteringthedoor.Wehadbeenguiltyofnoirreverencebeyondthisomission,andevenunderthehailofpriestlywrathdidourbesttowithdrawcorrectlywithoutturningourbackstothealtar.Butnothingwouldappeasethatscandalizedrowofgargoyles,whoseviolentrudenessseemedtousthegreaterdesecration.ThusitwasthatwedidnotenterthefrescoedchambersoftheactualPanteon,saidtobe

imposingyet,althoughtheroyaltombswerebrokenupbytheFrenchin1808.VerywrongintheFrench,butunlessthemannersofSanIsidoro'sbodyguardhavedegenerated,thesoldiersofNapoleonmayhavehadtheirprovocation.

Itwasnowhighnoon,andthemarket-placehadpouredallitspeasantsoutuponthestreets.Groupsofthemwerelyingatluncheonunderthetrees,passingthepigskinbottleofwinefrommouthtomouth.Beggarswerestandingbyandblessingtheminreturnforscrapsofthecoarseandscantyfare."MayGodrepay!Maythesaintsprosperthyharvest!"

Awomanridinghome,sittingerectonthered-stripeddonkey-bag,handedaplumtoherhusband,whotrudgedbesideheringraylinen

trunksandgreenvelveteenwaistcoat,withawhitesquareofclothset,forornament,intothemiddleoftheback.Hedividedthefruitwithapleadingcripple,whocalledafterthemasdevoutlyasamanwithhalfapluminhischeekwellcould,"MaytheBlessedVirginrideforthwithyouandgladdenallyourway!"

Wehad,becauseoftheincreasingheat,conjuredupacarriage,aspeciesofinvalidstage-coach,andwerethereforetheenvyoflittleschoolboysinbluepinafores.Theirstrawsatchelsbobbedontheirbacksastheygavechasetoourclatteringarkandclungtostepsanddoor.Thismodeoflocomotiondidnotsaveustime,forourcoachmanhaddomesticcaresonhismindanddrewuptobargainforachicken,whichfinallymountedwithasqualltotheboxseat;butindue

SpanishseasonwestoppedbeforetheplateresquefaçadeofSanMarcos.

Thisisastillunfinishedconvent,richinartisticbeautiesandhistoricmemories.Here,forinstance,isamarvellouslyhumanheadofSt.Francis,atriumphofthepolychromesculpture,andhereisthelittlecellwherethepoetQuevedo,"colossalgeniusofsatire,"wasimprisonedforoverthreeyearsbyPhilipIV,thepatronofVelázquez.Itisnotsoeasytocageamocking-bird,thoughthesatire-pencilledwallshavebeenwellwhitewashed.



ButSanMarcoswasoriginallyahospitalforpilgrimsontheroadtoCompostela,andconchshellsarethecentralornamentationofarchandvaultandfrieze.Weacceptedtherebuke;wewouldloiternomore.EarlythatafternoonwetooktrainforCoruña,afterwhichsomeagencyotherthansteammusttransportustothemediævalcityofSt.James.

XXIV

PILGRIMSOFSAINTJAMES

"InGaliceatSeintJame,andatColoigne,Shekoudemuchelofwandryngebytheweye."--CHAUCER:_CanterburyTales_.

"Pilgrimesandpalmersplihtenhemto-gederesFortosecheSeintJame."--LANGLAND:_PiersPlowman_.

"IamSaintJaques'pilgrim,thithergone."--SHAKESPEARE:_All'sWellthatEndsWell_.

FromLeontoCoruñaisajourneyofsomeeighteenhoursbyrail.Degeneratepilgrimsthatwewere,wehadtakenafirst-classcarriagereservedforladies,notsocomfortableastheaveragethird-classcarriageonanEnglishroad.Wehopedforspace,atleast,andsolitude,butpeoplewhochoosetopryintoout-of-the-waycornersofSpainneednotexpecttofindanyslavishdeferencetorightsofplaceandproperty.Theconductorhadplannedtodineandsleepinthisparticularcompartment,whichwasashadecleanerthantherest,andremovedhiskitfromtherackwithnaturaldisappointment.WhyshouldladiesbegoingtoGalicia?Butthegeneralfirst-classcompartment,nexttoours,wasunoccupied,andheresignedlytransferredhisbelongingsthither.Thenumerousthird-classcarriageswerecrowded

withrawrecruits,whohadalljumpeddown,boyfashion,ontheLeonplatforms,andcamescramblingbackatthestartingbellinnoisiestconfusion.Justasthetrainwaspuffingout,astationofficialthrewopenourdoorwithasmiling,"Onlytothenextstop,ladies!"andprecipitateduponusthreebelatedwarriors.Wegroanedinlywithdarkforeboding,forthird-classoccupancyofafirst-classcarriageisapttoleavelivelysouvenirsbehind.Ourthreeyoungsoldiers,eachwithhispersonaleffectsbundledupinanenormousredandyellowhandkerchief,wereoftherudestpeasanttype,hardlyliftedaboveanimalandclod.Onlyonewasabletospelloutanythingofthenewspaperweoffered.Helaboredoveralarge-letteredadvertisementwithgrimythumb,twistingbrows,andmutteringlips,butsoongaveitupinsheerexhaustion.Thehulkingfellowbeyondhimwascontinually

onthepointofspitting,--aregularSpanishpastimeintravel;but,determinedthatthecarriageshouldnotsufferthatoffence,Ikeptstrictwatchonthischrysalishero,andembarrassedhimintostarkparalysiswithquestionsonthelandscapewheneverhewasquitepreparedtofire.Thethirdconscriptwasaruddy,fair-hairedboyofseventeen,whohadinrudimentaryformthesocialinstinctsofaSpaniard,andinhisintervalsofblue-eyedstaringatthetawdrysplendorsabouthimhammeredourearswithsomeharshdialect,hisonethemebeingtheindignitiesandhardshipsofaSpanishsoldier'slot.Yetdullastheywere,andignorantofrailwaycustoms,theyknew



enoughtopreferbroadcushions,whosevarietyofstainsdidnottroubletheirenviablesimplicity,totheroughandnarrowbenchesoftheovercrowdedthird-classcarriages,andatthe"firststop"theyunanimouslyforgottochange.Buttheywerenotunkindlylads,andafterIhadexplainedtothemadozentimesorsothatmyfriendwassufferingfromaheadacheandneededtoliedown,andhad,furthermore,lawlesslysuggestedthattheycouldmakethemselvesequallycomfortableintheotherfirst-classcarriage,whichwasnot"reservedforladies,"theypromisedtoleaveusatthesecondstation;buttheirslowpeasanthandsfumbledatthedoorsoclumsilythatthetrainwasunderwayagainbeforethelatchhadyielded.Itwasnotuntilwehadbeenfellow-travellersfortwoorthreehoursthattheyfinallystumbledintotheneighboringcompartment.Fromthistheconductor,whohadbeenblindanddeaftopastproceedings,promptlyejectedthem,havingnomindtoletthemmakeacquaintancewithhiswinebottle,andourpoorexilescastreproachfulglancesatusastheywerehustledofftotheirownplace.

Wehavesometimestalkedenthusiasticallyofdemocracy,butwedidnotdiscusssuchexaltedsubjectsthen.Indeed,wehadenoughtodoinguardingourdoors,oftenbyfrankexerciseofmuscle,fromfurtherintrusion,andintryingtoprovideourselveswithfoodandwater.Astrugglingmobofsoldierboysbesiegedtherefreshmentstallsateverystation,anddrainedthejarsofthewater-venderslongbefore

thesecouldarriveatthecarwindows.Atlast,byaunionofsilverandviolence,wesucceededingainingfromanastoundedlittlegirl,whowasracingafterthedepartingcarriages,allherstockintrade,eventhegreatrussetjaritself,withitstreasureofcoldspringwater.Thehistorianpossessesaspecialgeniusforcookingoveranalcohollamponarockingmountaintrain,andhavingaugmentedourknapsackstoreswithscaldedmilkandknobbybreadfromatavernnearoneofthedepots,welivedlikefeudalbarons"ofourown"fortherestofthatmemorablejourney.

Remindersofthepilgrimswereallalongourroute.OverflowingasSantiago'syoungknightswerewithmartialandromanticspirit,whenthebrigandsdidnotgivetheirsteelsufficientsporttheywould

breaklancesfortheloveofladiesoronanyotherconceivablepretext.Wepassedthebridgeoftwentyarches,wheretencompanionsinarmsoncepostedthemselvesfortensuccessivedays,andchallengedtothetilteverycavalierwhocamethatwayinjourneytotheCompostelajubilee.

Alltheafternoonwewereclimbingintothehill-country.Thewasteslopeswerestarredwithpurpleclumpsofheather,andcrossedbylight-footedmaids,whobalancedgreatbunchesofbrackenontheirheads.Thepatchesofgreenvalley,walledinbythosebarrensteeps,heldeachafewtumble-downoldhouses,whileelsewherewenoticedhumandwellingsthatseemedscarcelymorethannestsofmudplasteredtothestone.Yetthesoilappearedtobecultivatedwiththemost

patientthrift,--wheatandpotatoesgrowingwhereverwheatandpotatoesmight.TheviewbecameabewilderingmedleyofScottishhills,Italianskies,andGothiccastles,withoccasionallyatawnyandfantasticrockfromtheGardenoftheGods.ThecityofAstorga,whosecathedralwasfounded,sothepilgrimsusedtosay,bySt.Jamesinhismissionarytour,greetedusfromthemidstoftheflintyhills.ThesearethehomeofasingularclanknownastheMaragatos.Theywearadistinctivedress,marryonlyamongthemselves,andturnasullenlookupontheirneighbors.



Asnightcameon,theroadgrewsoroughthatwehadtocorkourpreciouswater-jarwithaplumplemon.Thehistorianwassleepingoffherheadache,exceptasIwokeheratthestationstoaidinthedefenceofourignobleluxury.WerememberedthatqueenofPortugalwhomadethepilgrimagetoCompostelaonfoot,beggingherway.Intheclose-packedthird-classcarriagesitmusthavebeenacrampedandwearynight,andwedidnotwonderthatyoungsocialistsoccasionallytriedtoraidourfortress.Butweclungstoutlytothedoor-handles,lustilysoundingourwarcryof"Ladiesonly"inlieuof"Santiago,"andearlyinthesmallhourshadtheshamefacedpleasureofseeingtheherdofdrowsyconscripts,withtheirredandyellowbundles,drivenintoanothertrain,wheretheyweretumbledtwoorthreedeep,theunderlayerstrugglingandprotesting.Onelittlefellow,nearlysmotheredinthehurly-burlyaboutthesteps,criedoutpitifully;buttheconductorsilencedhimwithangrysarcasm:"Dostmeantobeasoldier,thou?Orshallweputtheeinasugar-bowlandsendtheebacktomamma?"

Therewaslessneedofsentrydutyafterthis,butthenightwastoobeautifulforsleep.WewerecrossingthewildAsturianmountains,theAlpsofSpain,andafullmoonwaspouringdownwhitelustreoncrag,cascade,andgorge.Bytheseperilouswayshadstreamedthemany-banneredpilgrimhosts,--menandwomenofallcountriesandalltonguesseekingtheJerusalemoftheWest.Eachnationhaditsown

hymntoSantiago,andthese,sungtothemingledmusicofbagpipes,timbrels,bugles,flutes,andharps,musthavepealedoutstrangelyonmanyasilvernight.Thepoorwentbeggingoftherich,andoftenamountedcrusadercasthispurseofbroadgoldpiecesontheheather,trustingSantiagoandhisowngoodswordtoseehimthrough.Upanddownthesesheerravinesstumbledtheblindandlame,sureofhealingifonlytheycouldreachtheshrine.Deafanddumbwentinthepilgrimranks,themad,thebroken-hearted,thesin-oppressed;onlythetroopoflepersheldapart.Someofthosefoot-sorewayfarers,mostlikelytheraggedestofall,carriedasecrettreasureforthesaint.Somestaggeredunderpenitentialweightsofleadandstone,andothersboreloadsofbarsandfettersintokenofcaptivityfromwhichSt.Jameshadsetthemfree.

[Illustration:ST.PAUL,THEFIRSTHERMIT]

Butthesepatheticshapesnolongerpeopledthemoonlight.Sinceitwasthenineteenthcentury,afirst-classpassengermightaswellliedownandwatchthegraciousprogressofthemoonacrosstheheavens,--

"Oft,asifherheadshebowed,Stoopingthroughafleecycloud."

Butthecloudsperverselymadeofthemselveswaysidecrosses,urns,cathedraltowers;andjustasonesky-creature,"backedlikeaweasel"butwiththefaceofSantiago,begantopuffamonstrouscigarette,I

rousedmydozingsensesanddiscoveredthatwewereenteringLugo,thecapitalofGalicia,andonce,underRomanrule,ofallSpain.

Thiscityoftumultuoushistory,stormedbyonewildraceafteranother,andtwicesackedinourowncentury,firstbytheFrenchandthenbytheCarlists,layverypeacefullyunderthewhitedawn.WhilethechivalrousSpanishsunroseunobtrusively,soasnottodivertattentionfromthefadinggracesofthemoon,thehistorianmadesustainingcoffee,andwetriedtolookasifwelikedGalicia.ThisfarnorthwesternprovinceistheBoeotiaofSpain;itsstupid,



patientpeasantryarethebuttofallthePeninsula,andtobecalledaGallegoistobecalledafool.Thecountry,aswesawitfromthetrain,wasbrokenandhilly,buttheAlpinemajestyofAsturiaswasgone.Inthemistydrizzleofrain,whichsoonhushedthepipingsofthebirds,alltheregionlookedwretchedlypoor.Itwasawooded,watered,well-tilledland,withtuftsofheatherbrightlyfringingeverybank;butthehousesweremerecabins,wheregreat,gaunt,dark-coloredpigspushedinandoutamongbedraggledhensandhalf-cladchildren.Womenwereworkinginthefieldsbyfiveo'clockinthemorning,theirsaffronandcarminekerchiefstwistedintohornsabovetheforehead.Womenwereservingasportersatthestations,carryingheavytrunksandloadsofvalisesontheirheads.Womenweredrivingtheplough,swingingthepickaxeinthequarries,mendingtherailwaytracks.Short,stout,vigorousbrowniestheywere,andmostofthemlookedold.

Itwasmid-forenoonwhenwereachedCoruña,theseaportwhencesailedtheInvincibleArmada.Wehadmeanttoresttherefortheafternoonandnightbeforeundertakingtheforty-miledrivetoSantiago,butthehotelwassofilthythat,tiredaswewere,therewasnothingforitbuttogoon.Tarryingonlyforbathandbreakfast,wetookourplacesinacarriagewhich,settingoutatone,promisedtobringusintoSantiagointimefortheeighto'clockdinner.

Thisconveyancewasaspeciesofnarrowomnibus,whichanAndalusian,anEnglishman,asonofCompostelareturninghomeafteralongsojourninforeignparts,hisyoungwifeofJewishfeatures,andourwearyselvesfilledtooverflowing.OurJehuhadagreedtotransportthesixofus,withoureffects,forthesumofsixteendollars;butdeepwasourdisgustwhenhepiledourhandbags,shawlstraps,andallourlesserpropertiesinuponourwedgedandhelplessforms,andcrammedsixroughGallegos,withareelingloadoftrunksandboxes,ontheroof.Remonstrancewouldbefutile.Theplacesintheregulardiligencewerenotonlytakenfortheafternoonbutengagedforseveraldaysahead,andcarriagesarerarebirdsinGalicia.TheSpanishgentlemenmerelyshruggedtheirshoulders,theEnglishmanhadbutthatmorninglandedinSpainandcouldnotspeakawordofthe

vernacular,andfeminineprotestwasclearlyoutoforder.Thefourpunyhorsestookthetop-heavyvehicleatarattlingpacedownthegranite-pavedstreetsofCoruña,buthardlywereweunderwaywhenourgriefsbegan.

Onourarrivalthatforenoon,afluentporterhadover-persuadedustoleaveourtrunkatthestation,lettinghimretainthecheckinordertohavethebaggagereadyforuswhenweshouldpassthedepot_enroute_forSantiago.Wehadbeenabsentscarcelythreehours,butmeanwhilethetrunkhaddisappeared.Adozentatterdemalionsranhitherandthither,makingasmuchnoiseaspossible,allthetopfaresshoutedcontradictorysuggestions,andourporter,heapingOssa-Pelionsofexecrationuponthe(absent)railroadofficials,

declaredthattheyintheirmostreprobatestupidityhadstartedthetrunkonthateighteen-hourjourneybacktoLeon.Theyweredoltsandasses,thesonsofimbecilemothers;butwehadonlytoleavethecheckwithhim,andinthecourseofanindefinitenumberof"to-morrows"hewouldrecoverourproperty.Wehadgrownsadderandwiserduringthelastfiveminutes,however,andinsistedontakingthatsoiledinchofpaperintoourownkeeping.AtthistheporterflewintoaSpanishrage,flungbackhisfeeintomylap,andsoeloquentlyexpressedhimselfthatweleftCoruñawithstingingears.



Itwasthehistorian'strunk,storedwithsuppliesforthecamera,aswellaswithsundryalleviationsofourpilgrimlot,butsheputitinthecategoryofspilledmilk,andturnedwithheroiccheerfulnesstoenjoythescenery.Thehorseshadnowdroopedintothesnail'spacewhichtheyconsistentlymaintainedthroughtherestoftheirlong,uphillway,forthecityoftheApostlestandsonahighplateau.Aswemountedmoreandmore,Coruña,lyingbetweenbayandsea,stillshoneclearacrossthewideningreachofsmilinglandscape.Maizeandvineswereeverywhere.Sowerepeasants,whotrudgedalonginfamilytroopstowardCompostela.Butwhetherafootorastridedonkeysofantiquecountenance,theycouldalwaysoutstripourlumberingcoach,andwewereaneasypreyforthehordesofchildishbanditswhochasevehiclesformilesalongthepilgrimroad,shriekingforpenniesinthenameofSantiago.

AbouttwoleaguesoutofCoruñawedidpasssomething,--agroupcomposedofayoungGallegoandthemostdiminutiveofdonkeys.Thepeasant,walkingbesidehisbeast,wastryingtobalanceacrossitsbackanobjectunwontedtothosewilds.

"Strangetoseeasteamertrunkhere!"Iremarked,turningtothehistorian;butshewasalreadyleaningoutfromthewindow,inspectingthatlabel-speckledboxwithaneaglegaze.

"It'smine!"sheexclaimed,andinatwinklinghadstartledthedriverintopullinguphishorses,hadleaptfromthecoach,andwasrunningafterthepeasant,who,forhispart,swervingabruptlyfromthemainroad,urgedhispantingdonkeyupasteeplane.Nobodybelievedher.EvenI,herfellow-pilgrim,thoughtherwitswereaddlingwithourpenitentialfastsandvigils,anddidnotattempttojoininsomadachase.AsforthescandalizedSpaniards,insideandout,theyshoutedangrilythatthethingwasimpossibleandtheseñorawastocomeback.Thecoachmanroaredloudestofall.Butonshedashed,randownherman,andbadehim,ininspiredGalician,bringthattrunktotheomnibusatonce.Hescratchedhishead,smiledachild'sinnocentandtrustfulsmile,and,likeatrueGallego,didashewastold.Bythistimemasculinecuriosityhadbeentoomuchforthedriverandmostof

thefares,andtheyhadscrambledafter,sothatthefewofuswhokeptguardbythecarriagepresentlybeheldanimposingprocessionadvancingalongtheroad,consistingofaGalicianpeasantwithasteamertrunkuponhishead,agroupofcrestfallenSpaniards,andaYankeelady,slightlyflushed,attendedbyanapplaudingEnglishman.

Beyondadoubtitwashertrunk.Hernamewasthere,aNewYorkhotelmark,whichshehadtriedtoobliteratewithablotofLeonink,andthenumbercorrespondingtothenumberofourcheck."ByJove!"saidtheEnglishman.Asforthepeasant,hesaidevenless,butinsomewaygaveustounderstandthathewastakingthetrunktoagentlemanfromMadrid.Thinkingthattheremighthavebeenaconfusionofchecksinthestation,wegavethischildlikenativea_peseta_andacardwith

ourSantiagoaddressincase"theMadridgentleman"shouldsuspectusofhighwayrobbery.Ourfellow-passengerstookthetaletoSantiago,however;itmadeagraphiccolumninthelocalpaper,andnoneoftheseveralSpaniardswhospoketousofthemattertheredoubtedthatthetrunkwasstolenbycollusionbetweentheporterandthepeasant.

Ournextadventurewasmorestartlingyet.Thecoachmanhadbeenheard,atintervals,vehementlyexpostulatingwitharoofpassengerwhowantedtogetdown."Manalive!BythestaffofSantiago!Byyourmother'shead!BytheVirginofthePillar!"Whetherthemalcontent



alltheway,andtheAnglo-Saxoncontingentwalkedonaheadforhalfanhourtogivethespenthorseswhatlittlereliefwemight.

Theclockswerestrikingtwowhenwereachedthegatesofthesacredcity,wherefreshhindrancemetus.Thecustomsofficialswereonthealert.WhowerewethatwouldcreepintoComposteladeSantiagoundercoverofnight,inanirregularconveyancepiledhighwithtrunksandboxes?Smugglers,beyondadoubt!Buttheywouldteachusathingortwo.Wemightwaitoutsidetillmorning.

[Illustration:MAIDSOFHONOR]

Delightedboysfromapeasantcampbeyondthewallsranuptojeeratourpredicament.Ourcoachman,revertingtohisdolorouschant,appealedtoallthesaints.Thetopfaresshrilledinonthechorus;theSpanishgentlemenlightedcigarettes,andaftersometwentyminutesofdramaticaltercation,asoldiersprangonourtopstepandmountedguard,whilethecoachrattledthroughthegatesandontothe_aduana_.Hereweweredeposited,bagandbaggage,onthepavement,andadrowsy,half-cladolddignitarywasbroughtforthtolookatus.Thecoachman,allhissocialgracesrestored,imaginativelypresentedthethreeAnglo-SaxonsasaFrenchpartytravellingforpleasure."ButwhatamItodowiththem?"groanedthedignitary,andwentbacktobed.Anappallinggroupof_serenos_,in

slouchhatsandlongblackcapes,withlanternsandwithstaffstoppedbysteelaxes,escortedusintoasortofluggageroom,andtoldustositdownonbenches.Wesatonthemforhalfanhour,whichseemedtosatisfytheendsofjustice,forthenthe_serenos_gaveplacetoporters,whosaidtheywouldbringusourproperty,whichnobodyhadexaminedornoticedintheslightest,afterdaybreak,andwouldnowshowusthewaytoourhotel.Ourfarewelltothecoachman,whocamebeaminguptoshakehandsandreceivethanks,wascold.

Wehadengagedroomsbyletteraweekinadvance,buttheyhadbeensurrenderedtoearlierarrivals,andwewereconductedtoaprivatehousenextdoortothehotel.Afterthedelaysincidenttowakinganentirefamily,weweretakenintoalarge,untidyroom,furnishedwith

diningtable,sewingmachine,andahalfdozendecrepitchairs.Therewasnowaterandnosignoftoiletapparatus,butinanadjoiningdarkclosetweretwonarrowcots,fromwhichthefourdaughtersofthehousehadjustbeenrouted.Ofthosebedswhichthesesleepychildrenwerethen,withunruffledsweetnessandcheeriness,makingreadyforus,thelesssaidthebetter.OurindoorhoursinCompostela,anincessantbattleagainstdirt,badsmells,andamostinstructivevarietyofvermin,wereapenancethatmusthavemetallpilgrimrequirements.Andyetthesepeoplesparednopainstomakeuscomfortable,sofarastheyunderstoodcomfort.Atourslightestcall,wereitonlyforamatch,inwouldtroopthemother,fourdaughters,maid,dog,andcat,withanyoftheneighborswhomightbevisiting,alleagertobeofservice.Thegirlswerelittlemodelsofsunny

courtesy,andwouldhavebeenasprettyoffaceastheywerecharminginmanner,hadnotskindiseasesandeyediseasestoldthetaleofthehideouslyunsanitaryconditionsinwhichtheiryoungliveshadbeenpassed.

ButwehadcometothefestivalofSantiago,anditwasworthitsprice.



XXV

THEBUILDINGOFASHRINE

(Ahistoricalchapter,whichshouldbeskipped.)

ThatmostSpanishofSpaniards,Alarcón,ispleasedinoneofhisroguishsketchestodepictthewaywardnessofacertainpoetaster."AlonsoAlonsowashappybecausehewasthinkingofmanysadthings,--ofthepastcenturies,vanishedlikesmoke,...ofthelittlespanoflifeandoftheabsurditieswithwhichitisfilled,ofthefollyofwisdom,ofthenothingnessofambition,ofallthiscomedy,inshort,whichisplayedupontheearth."

AlonsoAlonsowouldbeinhisveryelementinSantiagodeCompostela.The"unsubstantialpageantfaded"ofthemediævalworldismorethanmemorythere.Itisaghostthatwalksatcertainseasons,notablyfromthetwentiethtothetwenty-eighthofJuly.Thestoryofthebirth,growth,andpassingofthatoncesopotentshrine,theJerusalemoftheWest,istoosignificantforoblivion.

Thecorner-stoneofthestrangehistoryispriestlylegend.The

ApostleJamestheGreater,sorunsthetale,afterpreachinginDamascusandalongtheMediterraneancoast,cameinaGreekshiptoGalicia,thenunderRomanrule,andproclaimedthegospelinitscapitalcity,Iria-Flavia.HeretheVirginappearedtohim,veiled,likethemotherofÆneas,inacloud,andbadehimbuildachurch.Thishedid,puttingabishopincharge,andthenpursuedhismission,notonlyintheremotepartsofGalicia,butinAragon,Castile,andAndalusia.AtSaragossatheVirginagainflasheduponhissight.Shewaspoised,thistime,onamarblepillar,whichsheleftbehindhertobecome,whatitisto-day,themostsacredobjectinallSpain.Achipofthis_columnaimmobilis_isoneofthetreasuresofToledo.Thecathedralofthe_VirgendelPilar_,--affectionatelyknownasPilarica,--whichJamesthenfoundedatSaragossa,isstillapopular

goalofpilgrimage,themarbleoftheholycolumnbeinghollowed,atoneunshieldedspot,bycountlessmillionsofkisses.TheApostle,onhisreturntoJerusalemaftersevenyearsinSpain,wasbeheadedbyHerod.LoyaldisciplesrecoveredthebodyandsetsailwithitfortheSpanishcoast.OffPortugaloccurredthepointless"miracleoftheshells."Agentlemanwasridingontheshore,whenallatoncehishorse,refusingtoobeythebit,leaptintothesea,walkingonthecrestsofthewavestowardtheboat.Steedandridersuddenlysank,butpromptlyroseagain,allcrustedoverwithshells,whichhavebeeneversinceregardedastheemblemofSt.Jamesinparticular,andofpilgrimfolkingeneral.

"HowshouldIyourtrueloveknow

Fromanotherone?ByhiscocklehatandstaffAndhissandalshoon."

TheSantiago"cockle,"whichthus,asageneralpilgrimsymbol,outstrippedthekeysofRomeandthecrossofJerusalem,isotherwiseaccountedforbyastorythatthebodyofSt.JameswasborneoverseastoGaliciainashellofmiraculoussize,butthisisnottheversionthatwastoldusattheshrine.



Thetwodisciples,TheodoreandAthanasius,temporarilyinterredtheirmasterinPadron,twoleaguesfromIria,untiltheyshouldhaveobtainedpermissionfromtheRomandamewhogovernedthatregiontoallowSt.Jamesthechoiceofaresting-place.Herpaganheartwasmovedtograciousness,andshelentthedisciplesanox-cart,inwhichtheyplacedthebody,leavingthebeastsfreetotaketheApostle'scourse.Itishardlymiraculousthat,underthecircumstances,LadyLupa'soxenploddedstraightbacktoIriaandcametoastopbeforehersummervilla.Sincethiswassoclearlyindicatedasthechoiceofthesaint,shecoulddonolessthanputherhouseathisdisposal.Inthevillawasachapeltothewar-godJanus,butwhenthebodyofSantiagowasbroughtwithinthedoors,thisheathenimagefellwithacrashintoahundredfragments.Herethesaintabode,guardedbyhisfaithfuldisciples,until,inprocessoftime,theysleptbesidehim.Thevillahadbeentransformedintoalittlechurch,solittlethat,whentheImperialpersecutionsstormedovertheSpanishprovinces,theworshippershiditunderheapsofturfandtanglesofbrierbushes.ThoseearlyChristiansofIriawereslainorscattered,andtheburialplaceofSt.Jameswasforgottenofalltheworld.

Intheseventhcentury,arumorwentabroadthattheApostleJameshadpreachedthegospelinSpain.Thelegendgrewuntil,intheyear813,aGaliciananchoritebeheldfromthemouthofhiscavernabrilliantstar,whichshonepersistentlyaboveacertainbramble-woodinthe

outskirtsofIria.Movinglights,asofprocessionaltapers,twinkledthroughthemattedscreenofshrubbery,andsolemnchantsarosefromtheveryheartoftheboscage.Wordofthismysterycametothebishop,whosawwithhisowneyes"theglowofmanycandlesthroughtheshadowsofthenight."Afterthreedaysoffasting,heledallthevillagersinprocessiontothethicketwhichhadgrownup,aprotectinghedge,abouttheruinsoftheholyhouse.Thethreegraveswerefoundintact,andonopeningthechiefofthesethebishoplookeduponthebodyofSt.James,aswasprovennotonlybyseveredheadandpilgrimstaff,butbyaLatinscroll.TheswiftesthorsemenofGaliciaboretheglorioustidingstothecourtoftheking,thatmostChristianmonarch,AlfonsoII,"veryCatholic,agreatalmsgiver,defenderoftheFaith."Solovedofheavenwasthispiousking,that

once,whenhehadcollectedatreasureofgoldandpreciousstonesforthemakingofacross,twoangels,disguisedaspilgrims,undertookthework.When,afterafewhours,Alfonsocamesoftlytotheforgetomakesureoftheirhonestyandskill,noartisanswerethere,butfromanexquisitelyfashionedcrossstreamedacelestialglory.Sodevoutaking,onhearingthegreattidingsfromGalicia,lostnotimeindespatchingcourierstohisbishopsandgrandees,andallthepompandprideofSpain,headedbymajestyitself,flockedtothefar-offhamletbeyondtheAsturianmountainstoadoretherelicsofSantiago.

NowbegangranddoingsinIria,knownhenceforthastheFieldoftheStar,_CampusStellæ_,orCompostela.Alfonsohadachurchofstoneandclaybuiltabovethesepulchre,andendoweditwithanestateof

threesquaremiles.ThePopeannouncedthediscoverytoChristendom.Acommunityoftwelvemonks,withapresidingabbot,wasinstalledatCompostelatosaymassesbeforetheshrine.ForthesebeginningsofhomagetheApostlemadeamunificentreturn.Awildpeople,livinginawildlandatawildtime,theseSpaniardsoftheMiddleAgeswereshapedandswayedbytwosovereignimpulses,pietyandpatriotism.Thesetwowerepracticallyone,forpatriotismmeanttheexpulsionoftheMoor,andpiety,CrossaboveKoran.Itwasalife-and-deathstruggle.ThedispossessedChristians,beatenbackfromAndalusiaandCastiletothefastnessesofthenorthernmountains,werefighting



againstfearfulodds.Theyfeltsoreneedofaleader,foralthough,whentheirrankswerewavering,theVirginhadsometimesappearedtocheerthemon,hers,afterall,wasbutawoman'sarm.ItwasinthebattleofClavijo,846,thatSantiagofirstflashedintoview,aninvinciblechampionofthecross.

Rameiro,successortoAlfonsoII,hadtakenthefieldagainsttheterribleAbderrahmanofCordova,whohadalreadyoverrunValenciaandBarcelonaandwasdemandingfromGaliciaayearlytributeofonehundredmaidens.ThisexceedinglyMoorishtax,whichnowamusesMadridasarattlingfarceinthesummertheatreofthe_BuenRetiro_,wasnojestingmatterthen.Notonlythemostfamouswarriorsoftherealm,BernardodelCarpiointheirvan,butshepherdsandploughmen,priests,monks,evenbishops,flockedtotheroyalstandard.

"AcrywentthroughthemountainswhentheproudMoordrewnear,AndtroopingtoRameirocameeveryChristianspear;TheblessédSaintIago,theycalleduponhisname:--Thatdaybeganourfreedom,andwipedawayourshame."

ThehostsofCrossandCrescentmetinbattle-shocknearLogroño.OnlynightfallsavedtheChristiansfromutterrout,butinthosedarkhoursoftheirrespitetheapparitionofSantiagobentabovetheirsleepingking."Fearnot,Rameiro,"saidtheaugustlips."Theenemy,

masterofthefield,hemsyouinoneveryside,butGodfightsinyourranks."Atsunrise,intheverymomentwhentheMoslemhostwasbowedinprayer,theChristians,scandalizedatthespectacle,chargedinorthodoxfury.Theironsetwasledbyanunknownknight,gleaminginsplendidpanoplyofwar.Farinadvance,hislefthandwavingasnowybannerstampedwithacrimsoncross,hespurredhisfiercewhitehorsefullontheinfidelarmy.Hisbrandishedsword"hurledlightningagainstthehalf-moon."Athiseverysweepingstroke,turbanedheadsrolledoffbyscorestobetrampled,asturbanedheadsdeserve,underthehoofsofthatsnortingsteed.TheSonofThunderhadfoundhisfunction,whichwasnothinglessthantoinspirittheReconquest.Henceforthhecouldalwaysbecountedontoleadadesperateassault,and"_SantiagoyCierraEspaña!_"wasthebattle-cryofevery

hard-foughtfield.Solateas1212,atthecrucialcontestofLasNavasdeTolosa,the"CaptainoftheSpaniards"savedtheday.

WhatevermaybethoughtofsuchbloodyprowessonthepartofChrist'sdisciple,thefishermanofGalilee,hecouldnothavetaken,inthatstormyage,asurercoursetomakehimselfrespected.AllEuropesprangtodohonortoasaintwhocouldfightlikethat.Charlemagne,guidedbytheMilkyWay,visitedtheshrine,ifthefamousoldCodexCalixtinusmaybebelieved,withitsconvincingprintoftheApostlesittinguprightinhiscoffinandpointingthegreatKarltothestarrytrail.InprocessoftimetheGranCapitancamebustlingfromGranada.ThekingofJerusalemdidnotfindtheroadtoolong,nordidthePopeofRomecountittooarduous.Englandsentherfirst

royalEdward,andFrancemorethanoneroyalLouis.Countsanddukes,lordsandbarons,rodehundredsofmilestoCompostela,attheheadoffeudalbandswhichsometimesclashedbytheway.Saintsofeveryclimeandtempermadethegloriouspilgrimage,--Gregory,Bridget,Bernard,FrancisofAssisi.TotheshrineofSt.JamescametheCidinradiantyouthtokeepthevigilofarmsandreceivethehonorsofknighthood,andagain,mountedonhispeerlessBavieca,togivethanksforvictoryoverthefiveMoorishkings.Itwasonthissecondjourneythathesuccoredtheleper,invitinghim,withheroicdisdainofhygiene,tobehisbedfellow"inagreatcouchwithlinenverycleanandcostly."



[Illustration:DANCINGTHESEVILLANA]

Evenintheninthcenturysuchmultitudesvisitedthesepulchrethatasocietyofhidalgoswasformedtoguardthepilgrimsfrombanditsalongthatsavageroute,servethemasmoney-changersinCompostela,andinallpossiblewaysprotectthemfromrobberyandill-usage.ThisbrotherhoodgavebirthtothefamousOrderofSantiago,whosetwovowsweretodefendthepilgrimsandfighttheMussulmans.Thesered-crossknightswereasdevoutastheywerevaliant,"lambsatthesoundofthechurch-bellsandlionsatthecallofthetrumpet."Kingsandpopesgaveliberallytoaidtheirwork.RoadswerecutthroughSpainandFrance,evenItalyandGermany,"toSantiago."Forestswerecleared,morassesdrained,bridgesbuilt,andrest-housesinstituted,asSanMarcosatLeonandthecelebratedhostelryofRoncesvalles.Compostelahadbecomeapopulouscity,butacityofinns,hospitals,andallvarietyofconventualandreligiousestablishments.Evento-dayitcancountnearlythreehundredaltars.IntheninthcenturythemodestchurchofAlfonsoIIwasreplacedbyanornateedificerichintreasures,butinthegloomytenthcentury,whenChristianenergieswerearrestedbythedreadexpectationoftheendoftheworld,theMoorsoverranGaliciaandlaidtheholycitywaste.TheMoslemgeneral,Almanzor,hadmeanttoshattertheurnofSantiago,butwhenheenteredCompostelawithhistriumphanttroops,hefoundonlyone

defenderthere,anagedmonksittingsilentontheApostle'stomb.ThemagnanimousMoordidnotmolesthim,northeasheshisfeeblenessguardedbetterthanstrength,buttookabundantbooty.WhenAlmanzormarchedtothesouthagain,fourthousandGaliciancaptivesboreontheirshouldersthetreasuresoftheApostle,eventhechurch-bellsandsculptureddoors,toadornthemosqueofCordova.ThefreshcourageoftheeleventhcenturybeganthegreatRomanesquecathedralofSantiago.DonationspouredinfromalloverEurope.Pilgrimscamebowedundertheweightofmarbleandgraniteblocksforthefabric.Youngandold,menandwomen,beggarsandpeasants,princesandprelates,hadahandinthebuilding,cuttingshorttheirprayerstomixmortarandhewstone.Artistsfromfar-offlands,whohadcomeonpilgrimage,lingeredforyears,oftenforlifetimes,inCompostela,

makingbeautifulthedwellingofthesaint.

ThegreatepochofSantiagowasthetwelfthcentury,whentheresucceededtothebishoprictheableandambitiousDiegoGelmirez,whoresolvedthatCompostelashouldberecognizedasthereligiouscentreofSpain,andbejoinedwithJerusalemandRomeinatrinityofthesupremeshrinesofChristendom.Hewasamanofmasterlyresource,persistence,pluck.Nottooscrupulousforsuccess,hefoundallmeansgoodthatmadetowardtheaccomplishmentofhisonesplendiddream.TheclergyofSantiago,whohadhithertobornebutdubiousrepute,hesubjectedtoinstructionandtodiscipline,callinglearnedpriestsfromFrancetotutorthem,andsendinghisown,astheydevelopedpromise,tosojourninforeignmonasteries.Hezealouslypromotedthe

workonthecathedral,rearingarchesproudashisaspiration,andwatch-towersstrongashiswill.Heinvestedthesacredceremonies,especiallytheecclesiasticalprocessions,withextraordinarypomp,sothatthefigureofAlfonsoVI,conquerorofToledo,advancingthroughthebasilicainsuchasolemnprogress,appearedlessimposingthanthebishophimself,crownedwithwhitemitre,sceptredwithivorystaff,andtreadinginhisgold-embroideredsandalsuponthebroadstonesthatpavethechurchasifonanimperialpalacefloor.Gelmirezwasindefatigable,too,inbuildingupthecity.Eagertoswellthefloodofpilgrimage,hefoundedinCompostela,alreadya



clusterofshrinesandhostelries,stillmorechurches,inns,asylums,hospitals,togetherwithconvents,libraries,schools,andallotherrecognizedcitadelsofculture.Hefoughtpestilenceanddirt,introducinganexcellentwatersupply,andpromoting,sofarasheknewhow,decentandsanitaryliving.Hewasevenapatronofagriculture,bringinghomefromhisforeignjourneys,whichtookhimasfarasRome,packetsofnewseedslippedinamongparcelsofjewelsandnolesspreciousbudgetsofsaintlymolarsandknuckle-bones.Butthesemissionsabroad,havingalwaysforchiefobjectthepressingofhispetitionupontheHolySee,involvedcostlypresentstoinfluentialprelates,especiallythered-cappedcardinals.TherevenueforsuchbribeshewrungfromtheGalicianpeasantry,whogavehimameasureofhatewitheverymeasureofgrain.Gelmirezhadsomanyusesformoneythatnowonderhistaxescutdowntothequick.ThelavishofferingssentbyseatotheshrineofSantiago,ruby-crustedcrucifixesofpuregold,silverreliquariessparklingwithemeraldsandjacinths,pontificalvestmentsofrichesttissueandofrarestartistry,well-chasedvesselsofonyx,pearl,andjasper,allthatconstantinfluxofglisteningtributefromthelengthandbreadthofChristendom,haddrawnMoorishpiratestotheGalicianwaters.Toguardthetreasure-ships,repeltheinfidels,and,incidentally,returntitfortatbyplunderingtheirgalleys,thewarriorbishopequippedaformidablefleet,andkeptitonpatroloffthecoast,--astrangedevelopmentfromthelittlefishing-boatwhenceJamesandJohn

trailednetsinthelakeofGalilee.TheaudacityofGelmirezreacheditsheightinhisstrugglewiththeQueenRegent,Urracaofunlovelymemory,forthecontrolofthechildking,AlfonsoVII.ThisboywasthegrandsonofAlfonsoVI,"EmperorofSpain,"whosurvivedallhislegitimatechildrenexceptUrraca.ThefatherofthelittleAlfonso,CountRaymondofBurgundy,wasdead,andUrracahadtakenasecondhusband,AlfonsotheBattle-maker.Thesituationwascomplicated.TheBattle-makerworethecrownsofAragonandNavarre,UrracawasqueenofLeonandCastile,whilethechild,byhisgrandfather'swill,inheritedthelordshipofGalicia.TheBishopofSantiago,whobaptizedthebaby,hadstrenuouslyopposedUrraca'ssecondmarriage.Asthatladyhad,nevertheless,goneherownwilful

way,settingatnaughtthebishop'sremonstranceandincitingGaliciatorevoltagainsthistyranny,Gelmirezhadkidnappedtheroyalchild,apuzzledlittlemajestyoffoursummers,andsolemnlycrownedandanointedhimbeforetheHighAltarofSt.James,declaringhimselftheprotectoroftheyoungsovereign.UrracasoonweariedofherAragonesebridegroom,and,castinghimoff,tookuparmstodefendherterritoriesagainsthisinvasion.Thepowerfulbishopcametoheraidwithmenandmoney,butexactedinexchangeanoathoffaithfulfriendship,whichUrracagaveandbrokeandgaveagain.MeanwhilethepopularhatredswelledsohighagainstGelmirezthatanopeninsurrection,inwhichmanyofhisownclergytookpart,drovehimandtheQueentoseekrefugeinoneofthecathedraltowers,whiletherebelsburnedandpillagedinthechurchbelow.Thebishopbarely

escapedwithhislife,fleeingindisguisefromCompostela;butsoonthebaffledconspiratorssawhimathispostagain,punishing,pardoning,rebuilding--asindomitableasSt.Jameshimself.TheelectionofDiego'sfriend,CalixtusII,tothepapacy,gavehimhissupremeopportunity.Moneywastheprimerequisite,andGelmirez,notforthefirstnorsecondtime,borrowedoftheApostle,sellingtreasuresfromthesacristy.ThesumssoraisedwerecarriedtothePope,acrossthebandit-peopledmountains,byacanonofSantiagomasqueradingasabeggar,andbyatrustygroupofparticularlyraggedpilgrims.Thisproofofecclesiasticalripenessovercameallpapal



scruples,andCalixtus,despitetheclamorofenemiesandrivals,raisedSantiagotothecovetedarchbishopric.

Thefirsthalfofhisgreatpurposeeffected,GelmirezstrovewithrenewedenergytowrestfromToledotheprimacyofSpain.HefortifiedGalicia,hurledhisfleetagainstMoorishandEnglishpirates,builthimselfanarchiepiscopalpalaceworthyofhishard-wondignities,stolefromPortugaltheskeletonsoffoursaintstoenhancethepotencyofSantiago,andmademuchoftheskulloftheApostleJamestheLess,whichUrracahadpresentedinoneofherfitsofamity.Butthistimethereverendrobberwasnotdestinedtosuccess.TheArchbishopofToledoformedapowerfulpartyagainsthim,Calixtusdied,eventheking,whomGelmirezhadarmedknightinthecathedralofSantiagoandhadcrownedasecondtimeatLeon,grewrestiveunderthedictationofhisoldtutor.ThesmoulderinghatredofGaliciaagainflamedout.Theagedarchbishoponcemorehadtoseehischurchpolluted,itstreasuresplundered,itsmarvelsofcarvedwork,stainedglass,andgold-threadedvestmentsspoiledandwastedbythatsenselessrabblewhichhadtwistedoutfromunderhisheavyfoot.Faintandbleedingfromawoundinhishead,toowhiteahead,forallitspride,tobebatteredwithstones,Gelmirezhadalmostfallenavictimtothemob,whentwoofhiscanonssnatchedhimbacktotherefugeoftheHighAltar,barringtheiron-latticeddoorsofthe _CapillaMajor_againstthosesavagesheepofhispasture.Theoutrage

wassoflagrantthat,forveryshame,popeandking,thoughbothhadacceptedthebribesofhisenemies,respondedtohisappeal,andassistedhimtoresumethatrigorousswaywhichlasted,alltold,forsomethinglikefortyyears.

SuchwasthemanandsuchtheprocessthatmadetheshrineofSantiagothethirdinrankofmediævalChristendom.UndertheruleofGelmirezCompostelahadbecomeoneoftheprincipalcitiesofthePeninsula,aseatofartsandscienceswhereSpanishnobleswereproudtobuildthempalacesandtoeducatetheirsons.Themightyinfluxofpilgrims,whichwentonwithoutabatementcenturyaftercentury,nearlytwenty-fivehundredlicensesbeinggranted,inthesingleyear1434,tocockle-hattedvisitorsfromEnglandalone,filledtheplacewith

business.Inn-keepers,physicians,money-changers,merchantswereinflourishingestate,andanumberofspecialindustriesdeveloped.Onestreetwastakenupbyboothsforthesaleofpolishedshells.Anotherbearsstillthenameofthejet-workers,whoserosaries,crucifixes,stars,gourds,staffs,andamuletswereinhighdemand.SouvenirsofSantiago,littlecrossesdelicatelycutandchased,mimicchurches,towers,shrinesgaveemploytoscoresofartistsinsilverandmother-of-pearl.TheenormousrevenuefromthesaleofphialsofhealingoilandfromtheconsecratedcandlesmustneedsgototheApostle,butthecunningcraftsmenwholoadedtheirstallswithlove-charmshadawell-nighequalpatronage.

Thefinishedcathedralwasconsecratedin1211,andin1236theroyal

saint,FernandoIII,senttoCompostelaatrainofMohammedancaptives,bringingbackontheirshouldersthebellsAlmanzorhadtaken.Thesehadbeenhung,inverted,inthebeautifulmosqueofCordovatoserveaslampsfortheinfidelworship,butatlastSt.Jameshadhisownagain.ThusSantiagotrampledontheMoors,andhisashes,orwhathadpassedforhisashes,sleptinpeace,withnothingtodobutworkmiraclesonblindandcrippledpilgrims,until,in1589,anarmyofEnglishheretics,ledbythehorribleDrake,landedinGalicia.TheseLutherandogswerenotworthyofamiracle.Thearchbishopandhiscanons,withtheenemyhammeringonthegatesof



Compostela,hastilytookupandreburiedthethreecoffinsoftheoriginalshrine,sosecretlythattheycouldnotbefoundagain.In1879,however,amiscellanyofbrittlebitsofbonewasbroughttolightbyapartyofdeterminedseekers,andtheserepulsivefragments,afterscientificanalysisconductedinanecclesiasticalspirit,weredeclaredtobeportionsofthreeskeletonswhichmightbeagesold.LeoXIIIclenchedthematterby"authenticating"oneofthem,apparentlychosenatrandom,asthebodyofSantiago.Butalthoughforusoftheperversesects,thecontentsofthatmagnificentsilvercasket,thecentreoftheSantiagofaith,couldarousenothrillofworship,thePilgrimCityitselfanditsstoried,strangecathedralwerethemostimpressivesightsofSpain.

[Illustration:WITHINTHECLOISTER]

XXVI

THESONOFTHUNDER

"ThoushieldofthatfaithwhichinSpainwerevere,Thouscourgeofeachfoemanwhodarestodrawnear,

WhomtheSonofthatGodwhotheelementstamesCalledchildofthethunder,immortalSaintJames."--_HymntoSantiago_,inGeorgeBorrow'stranslation.

Fatiguesofthejourneyanddiscomfortsofourlodgingmeltedfrommemorylikeshadowsofthenightwhenwefoundourselves,onthemorningofJulytwenty-fourth,beforethatrich,darkmassoffrettedgranite,amajesticchurchstandingsolitaryinthemidstofspreading _plazas_.Thesearesurroundedbystatelybuildings,thearchiepiscopalpalacewithitsmemoriesofGelmirez,theroyalhospitalfoundedbyFerdinandandIsabellaforthesuccorofwearypilgrims,ancientcollegeswithsculpturedfaçades,marvellousold

conventswhoseholyfatherswerelongsincedrivenoutbyroyaldecreeintohungry,homesickexile,andthecolumnedcityhallwithitsfrontalreliefofthebattleofClavijoanditscrowningstatueofSt.James.Thegreat,pavedsquares,themagnificentstairwaysanddeeplyrecessedportalswereaglowwithallGalicia.Peasantsingaladress,brightastropicbirds,stoodindeferentialgroupsaboutthepilgrims,fortherewereactualpilgrimsonthescene,menandwomenwhosebroadhatsandroundcapesweresewnoverwithscallop-shells,andwhoselongstaffsshowedlittlegourdsfastenedtotheupperend.Theyworerosariesandcrucifixesinprofusion,andtheirhabitwasspangledwithallmannerofcharmsandamulets,especiallythetinselmedalswiththeirfavoritedeviceofSt.JamesridingdowntheMoors.Weboughtatoneofthestallssetupbeforethedoorsforsaleof

holywaresamementoofthefamousoldjet-work,atinyblackhand,warranted,ifhungabouttheneck,tocuredisordersoftheeyes.Wefelltochattingwithapilgrimwhowasshodingenuinesandalshoon.Alargegourdwastiedtohisbelt,therimofhishatwasturnedupatonesideandcaughttherewitharosy-tintedshell,andhislong,blackringletsfelllooseuponhisshoulders,framingaromanticDürerface.HetalkedwithusinGerman,sayingthathewasofWittemberg,andonceaLutheran,buthadbeenconvertedtothetruefaithonapreviousvisittoSpain.SincethenhehadfootedhispenitentialwaytoJerusalemandotherdistantshrines.Ashissimplespeechranon,



weseemedtoseethemountainsroundaboutSantiagocrossedbythoseconvergingstreamsofmediævalpilgrims,alldroppingontheirkneesatthefirstglimpseofthecathedraltowers.Withthatsightthefaintingwererefreshed,thelameran,andjubilantsongsofpraisetoSantiagorolledoutinmanylanguagesupontheair.

"Primusexapostolis,MartirJerusolinus,Jacobusegregio,Sacerestmartirio."

InthoseAgesofFaithallthegatesofthecitywerechokedwiththeincomingtide,thehostelsandcure-housesoverflowed,andthebroad _plazas_aboutthecathedralwerefilledwithdensethrongsofpilgrims,massednationbynation,flyingtheirnationalcolors,singingtheirnationalhymnstothestrangelyblendedmusicoftheirnationalinstruments,andwatchingfortheacolytewhosummonedthem,companybycompany,intotheaugustpresence-chamberofSt.James.Hisshrinetheyapproachedonlyinpostureoflowliestreverence.Evennow,attheendofthenineteenthcentury,ourfirstglance,asweenteredthelofty,dim,andincense-perfumednave,fellonawoman-pilgrimdraggingherselfpainfullyonherkneesuptheaisletowardtheHighAltar,andoftenfallingprostratetokissthepavementwithgroansandtears.

Mediævalpilgrims,whentheyhadthuswontheirwaytotheentranceofthe_CapillaMayor_,andtherereceivedthreelightblowsfromapriestlyrodintokenofchastisement,weregrantedthedueindulgencesand,inturn,laidtheirofferingsbeforethegreatwhitealtar.Stilltheresits,inanicheabove,thethirteenth-centuryimageofSt.James,acolossalfigurewroughtofredgranite,withstifflyflowingvestmentsofelaboratelyfiguredgilt.Hislefthandgraspsasilverstaff,withgildedgourdatop,andhisright,whoseindexfingerpointsdownwardtotheburialvault,holdsascrollinscribed,"HicestcorpusdiviJacobiApostoliacHispaniarumPatroni."Onceheworeabroad-brimmedhatallofpuregold,butthiswasmelteddownbyMarshalNeyintheFrenchinvasion.Atthattime

thesacredvesselswereheapedlikemarketproduceintogreatox-carts,untilthecathedralhadbeenplunderedoftenhundredweightoftreasure.Itwas"theendofthepilgrimage"toclimbthestepsbehindthisstatueandkissitsresplendentsilvercape,studdedwithcockle-shellsandbesprinkledwithgems.Butthepilgrimsofthepasthadmuchmoretoseeandworship,--thejewelledcrownoftheApostlesetuponthealtar,hisveryhatandstaff,theveryaxethatbeheadedhim,andotherrelicstowhichtheattentionofthemoderntourist,atleast,isnotinvited.YetevenwewereconductedtotheRomanesquecryptbeneaththeHighAltar,wherestandsanotheraltarofredmarble,decoratedbyareliefoftwopeacocksdrinkingfromacup.Thisaltarissurmountedbyabronzepedestal,whichbearsthesumptuousark-shapedcasketwithitsenshrinedhandfulsofdubious

dust.

Ourlatter-daypilgrimsseemedwellcontentwiththemeasureofwealthandsanctitywhichMoorishsackandEnglishpiracy,FrenchinvasionandCarlistwars,hadsparedtothecathedral.Inthematterofgeneralrelics,nevertheless,SantiagosuffersbycomparisonwiththeneighborcathedralofOviedo,whichproudlyshowsasilver-platedoldreliquary,believedbythedevouttohavebeenbroughtintheearliestChristiantimesfromRome.Thischestcontains,inadditiontotheusualpiecesofthetruecrossandthornsfromthecrown,such



remarkablemementosasSt.Peter'sleathernwallet,crumbsleftoverfromtheFeedingoftheFiveThousand,bitsofroastfishandhoneycombfromEmmaus,breadfromtheLastSupper,mannafromthewilderness,aportionofMoses'rodandthemantleofElijah.Oviedopossesses,too,thatfamouscrosswhichtheangelsmadeforAlfonsoII,andoneofthesixwater-jarsofCana.ButtherelicchapelofSantiagomakesupinquantitywhateveritmaylackinquality,holdingbones,garments,hair-tresses,andlikememorialsofaveritablearmyofmartyrs,eventowhatForddisrespectfullycalls"sundryparcelsoftheeleventhousandVirgins."SpecialstressislaidonaCalvarythornwhichturnsblood-redeveryGoodFriday,andadrop,foreverfresh,oftheMadonna'smilk.Ifpilgrimsarenotsatisfiedwiththese,theycanwalkouttoLosAngeles,anadjacentvillage,whosechurchwasbuiltbytheangels.EccentricarchitectstheywereinchoosingtoconnecttheiredificewiththecathedralofSantiagobyanundergroundbeamofpuregold,formerlyoneoftheraftersinGod'sownhouse.

Wehadspeechofseveralpilgrimsthatfirstmorning.Onewasamiddle-aged,sun-browned,stubbylittleman,whomduringtheensuingweekwesawagainandagaininthecathedral,butneverbegging,withthemostofthepilgrims,attheportals,nortakinghiseaseinthecloisters,--asocialpromenadewherethelaitycametogossipandtheclergytopufftheircigarettes.Thishumbleworshipperseemedtopass

allthedaysofthefestivalinenrapturedadoration,onhiskneesnowbeforeoneshrine,nowbeforeanother.Wefoundhimfirstfacingthesupremearchitecturalfeatureofthecathedral,thatsublimeandyetmostlovely_PorticodelaGloria_.Hewasgazingupatitsparadiseofsculpturedsaintsandangels,whoseplumesandflowingrobesstillshowtracesofazure,rose,andgold,withanexpressionofnaiveecstasy.HetoldusthathecamefromAstorga,andhadbeenninedaysontheway.Hespentmostofhistimeupontheroad,headded,visitingespeciallytheshrinesoftheVirgin."GreatlyitpleasesmetoworshipGod,"hesaid,withsparklingeyes,andranoneagerly,aslongaswewouldlisten,abouttherichesandsplendorsofdifferentcathedrals,andespeciallytherobesandjewelsofthe_VirgendelPilar_.Heseemedinhisdevoutaffectiontomakeherwealthhisown.

OneofthemosttouchingeffectsofthescenewasthechildlikesimplicitywithwhichthepoorofGalicia,comingfromsuchvilehovels,feltthemselvesathomeinthedwellingoftheirsaint.Noteventheirsinsmarredtheirsenseofwelcome.Inthecloistersweencounteredanoldwomaninthepilgrimdress,herstaffwoundwithgayribbons,limpingfromherlongjaunt.Shetoldusfranklythatshewas"onlyabeggar"inherownvillage,andhadcomefortheoutingaswellastopleasethepriest,who,objectingtocertainmisdemeanorswhichshehadthediscretionnottospecify,hadprescribedthisexcursionaspenance.Shewasalivelyoldsoul,andwasamusingherselfmightilywiththeGoyatapestries,andothers,thatadornedthecloistersinhonorofthetime."Youhaveabookandcanread,"shesaid,"andyouwillunderstanditall,butwhatcanIunderstand?

Icanseethatthisisaqueen,andsheisveryfine,andthatthosearebutcherswhoarekillingafatpig.ButwewhoarepoormayunderstandlittleinthisworldexcepttheloveofGod."OthersofthepilgrimswerevillagefolkofPortugal,and,takenalltogether,thesemodernwearersoftheshellwerebutasorryhandfulasrepresentingthosenoblemultitudeswhocame,inagespast,tobowbeforetheshrine.Thefourteendoorsofthecathedralthenstoodopennightandday,andthegrotesquelionsleaningoutoverthelintelscouldboastthattherewasnotongueofEuropewhichtheirstoneearshadnotheard.Threeopendoorssufficeinthefeastdaysnow,butwiththe



newfloodoffaiththathassettowardLourdes,pilgrimagestoSantiago,astootherLatinshrines,arebeginningtorevive.

Masswasoveratthelatehourofourarrival,butnaveandaisles,transeptsandcloisters,hummedwithgreetingsoffriends,laughterofchildren,whosportedunrebukedaboutthosestatelycolumns,andtheadmiringexclamationsofstrangers.WewereoftenaccostedinSpanishandinFrenchandaskedfromwhatcountrywecame,andifwe"lovedthebeautifulchurchoftheApostle."Whenwewereoccasionallycornered,anddrivenintruthfulnesstosaythatwewereYankees,ourmoreintelligentinterlocutorslookedusoverwithroguishscrutiny,butincreasedratherthanabatedtheircourtesies.Asforthepeasants,theirgeographyissafelylimited.NoticingthatourSpanishdifferedfromtheirs,theysaidwemustbefromCastile,or,atthemost,fromPortugal.AtalleventswewerestrangerstoSantiago,andtheymerrilyviedwithoneanotherinshowingusaboutandgivingusmuchgraphicinformationnottobefoundinguide-books.

Muchoftheirloreappearstobeoftheirowninvention.Thesuperb _PuertadelaGloria_,wroughtbyathenfamousarchitectsentfromthekingofLeon,butknowntousto-dayonlyasMasterMateo,wasthefruitoftwentyyears'labor.Thistripleporch,whichrunsacrossthewestendofthenave,beingfinallycompleted,MasterMateoseemstohavesymbolizedthededicationofhisservicetotheApostleina

kneelingstatueofhimself,facingtheeast,withbacktotherichlysculpturedpillarofthechiefportal.Theheadofthisfigureiswornalmostasroundandexpressionlessasastoneballbythecaressesofgenerationsofchildishhands.Thelittlegirlswhomwewatchedthatmorningastheypattedandsmoothedthemuch-enduringpatetoldus,kissingthemarbleeyes,thatthiswasastatueofSt.Lucia,whichitcertainlyisnot.Inanothermomenttheserestlessmidgetswereassaulting,withfluentphrasesofinsult,thecarvenfacesofcertainfantasticimageswhichformthebasesoftheclusteredcolumns.Thechildrenderisivelythrusttheirfeetdowntheyawningthroats,kickedthegrotesqueearsandnoses,andingeneralsomaltreatedtheirGothicvictimsthatweweremovedtoremonstrate.

"Butwhyshouldyouabusethem?Whatarethesecreatures,tobepunishedso?"

"_TheyareJews_,"hissedourlittleChristianswithanemphasisthatthrewnewlightontheDreyfus_affaire_.Butaninstantmore,andthesevivacious,capriciousbitsofSpanishwomanhoodwereallabsorbedinaidingablindoldpeasantwhohadgropedherwaytothesacredPorticoforitsespecialprivilegeofprayer.Thecentralshaft,dividingintotwothechiefofthethreedoorways,representstheTreeofJesse,thepatriarchalfigureshalf-envelopedinexquisitelysculpturedfoliage.ThechiselledcapitalshowstheTrinity,DoveandSonandFather,withadoringangels.AbovesitsabenignantSt.James,whosethroneisguardedbylions,andoverall,

inthecentraltympanumofthesublimedoorway,isacolossalfigureofourLord,upliftingHiswoundedhands.AboutHimaregroupedthefourEvangelists,radiantwitheternalyouth,andeightangelsbearingtheinstrumentsofthePassion,thepillarofthescourging,whips,thecrownofthorns,thenails,thescroll,thesponge,thespear,thecross.OtherangelsburnincensebeforeHim,andthearchivoltaboveiswroughtwithanecstaticmultitudeofelders,martyrs,andsaints,sovividafterallthesecenturiesthatonecanalmostheartheblithemusicoftheirharps.ItistheChristofParadise,enthronedamidtheblest,towhomHispresencegivesfulnessofjoyforevermore.Above



thelesserdoorsoneithersidearefiguredPurgatoryandHell.Thefreshandglowingbeauty,sopiquantandyetsospiritual,thetrulycelestialcharmofthismarvellousPorticowhichStreetdidnotfeartocall"oneofthegreatestgloriesofChristianart,"wasnever,duringthisfestalweek,withoutitsthrongofreverentbeholders,themostwaitingtheirturn,likeouroldblindpeasant,tofitthumbandfingerintocertaincuriouslittlehollowsonthecentralshaft,andthusofferprayerwhichwassureofanswer.Minuteafterminuteforunbrokenhours,thehandssucceededoneanotherthere,--old,knotted,toilwornhands,thesmall,brownhandsofchildren,jewelledhandsofdelicateladies,andoften,asnow,thegropinghandofblindness,withchildishfingershelpingittofindthosemysticaldepressionsintheagate.SomeofthebystanderstoldusthatSt.Jameshaddescendedfromhisseatabovethecapital,andlaidhishandagainstthecolumn,leavingthesetraces,butmorewouldhaveitthattheChristHimselfhadcomedownbynightfromthegreattympanumtoplaceHiswoundedhandupontheshaft.Streetrecordsthatheobservedseveralsuchpetitioners,afterremovingthehand,spitintothemouthsofthewingeddragonsthatserveasbasetothepillar;butthatliterallydare-devilformofamenmustnowhavegoneoutoffashion,forwedidnotseeitonce.

[Illustration:THETRAMPLEROFTHEMOORS]

Towardnoonwestrolledoutintothegrand_plaza_beforethewestfaçadeandfounditamultitudinousjamofexpectantmerrymakers.Evennunswerepeepingdownfromaleaf-veiledbalcony.WeseemedtohavebeenprecipitatedoutoftheMiddleAgesintoanexaggeratedFourthofJuly.Allthecitybellswerepealing,rocketsandRomancandlesweresputtering,andgrotesquefire-balloons,letofffromaparapetofthecathedral,flourishedbandylegsand"Sagastanoses"intheresignedoldfacesofthecarvenimages.Andthen,amidtheacclamationsofallthesmallboysinthesquare,salliedforththeSantiagogiants.Thesewickerworkmonsters,eightalltold,aresupposedtorepresentworshippersfromforeignlands.Theygobycouples,twobeingconventionalpilgrimswith"cockle-shellandsandalshoon";twoapparentlyMoors,withblackcomplexions,feathercrowns,

andmuchbarbaricfinery;twonondescripts,possiblytheFrenchoffeudaldate;andtwo,theleadersandprimefavorites,regularPunchcaricaturesofmodernEnglishtourists.JohnBullisastoutoldgentlemanwithgrayside-whiskers,avastexpanseofbroadclothback,andasingleeye-glasssecuredbyalavenderribbon.TheBritishMatron,inasmartDollyVardenfrock,glareswithashockedexpressionfromunderflaxenpuffsandanostrich-featheredhat.Thepopularattitudeofmindtowardtheseabsurditiesispastallfindingout.Notthechildrenalone,buttheentireassemblagegreetedthemwithaffectionatehilarity.Thegiants,propelledbymenwhowalkedinsidethemandgrinnedoutontheworldfromaslitintheenormouswaistbands,trundledaboutthesquare,followedbytheanticsofarivalgroupofdwarfsfromthecityhall,andthenmadetheroundof

theprincipalstreets,executingclumsygambolsbeforethepublicbuildings.

Onthemorningafter,Julytwenty-fifth,thegreatdayofthefeast,anniversaryoftheApostle'smartyrdom,thesesameovergrowndollsplayedaprominentpartinthesolemncathedralservice.TheChapterpassedinstatelyprogresstothearchbishop'spalacetofetchhisEminence,andlatertotheancientportalswherethesilver-workersoncedisplayedtheirwares,togreettheRoyalDelegate.Attheirheadstruttedthisabsurdarrayofgiants.TheHighMasswassuperbwith



orchestralmusicandthemostsumptuousrobesofthevestiary.The"KingofCensers,"thesplendid_botafumeiro_offourteenth-centurydate,madesolarge,sixfeethigh,withtheviewofpurifyingthecathedralairvitiatedbythehordesofpilgrimswhowerewonttopassthenightsleepingandprayingontheholypavements,flasheditsmajesticcurves,amightyfirebird,fromrooftofloorandfromtransepttotransept.Itisswungfromtheceilingbyaningeniousironmechanism,andtheleaping,roaringflames,asthehugecensersweepswitheveraugmentingspeedfromvaulttovault,tracingitspathbyachainofperfumedwreaths,makethespectacleuniquelybeautiful.KnightsofSantiago,theirwhiteraimentmarkedbycrimsonswordanddagger,receivedfromtheRoyalDelegate"athousandcrownsofgold,"theannualstatedonation,institutedbyRameiro,tothepatronsaint.TheDelegate,kneelingbeforetheimageofSantiago,prayedferventlythattheApostlewouldacceptthisofferingoftheregent,aqueennolessdevoutthanthefamousmotherofSanFernando,andwouldraiseupAlfonsoXIIItobeanotherFernando,winningbackforSpainheroceanisleswhichthehereticshadwrestedaway,evenasFernandorestoredtoCompostelathecathedraldoorsandbellwhichtheinfidelMoorshadstolen.HisEminence,whoissaidtohaveaccumulatedafortuneduringhispreviousarchbishopricinCuba,inturnbesoughtSt.JamestoprotectCatholicSpainagainst"thosewhoinvokenorightsavebruteforce,andadorenodeityexceptthegoldencalf."Inmostmagnificentprocessionthesilvercasketwasborne

aroundthenaveamongthekneelingmultitudes.Andthen,tocrowntheseaugustceremonies,forthtrottedourfriends,thegiants,intotheopenspacebeforethe_CapillaMayor_.Herethesixsubordinateboobiespaused,groupingthemselvesinaludicroussemicircle,whilepompousJohnBullandhiseverscandalizedBritishMatronwentupintotheHolyofHoliesanddanced,tothemusicofguitarsandtambourines,infrontoftheHighAltar.

Everydayofthatfestalweekthecathedralserviceswereattendedbydevoutthrongs,yettherewassomethingblitheandsocial,well-nighdomestic,intheatmosphereofthesceneevenatthemostimpressivemoments.Kneelinggroupsofpeasantwomencaughtthesunshineontheirorangekerchiefsandscarlet-broideredshawls.Hereaprayingfather

wouldgatherhislittleboy,sobbingwithweariness,upagainsthisbreast;thereatiredpilgrimwomanslumberedinacorner,herbroadhatwithitscockle-shellslyingonherknees.Rowsofkneelingfigureswaitedatthewoodenconfessionalswhichwerethicksetalongbothaislesandambulatory.Severaltimeswesawapriestasleepintheconfessional,thosewhowouldpourouttheirheartstohimkneelingoninhumblepatience,notventuringtoarousetheholyfather.Youngofficers,leaningagainstthepillars,smileduponaschoolofSpanishgirls,who,guardedbyveilednuns,kneltfaralongthetransept.Pilgrims,standingoutsidethedoortogatheralms,viedwithoneanotherinstoriesoftheirtravelsandthemarvelstheyhadseen.

Butatnight,walkingintheilluminated_alameda_,wherethousandsofJapaneselanternsandcoloredcupsofflamemadeafantasticfairyland,ordancingtheircountrydances,singingtheircountrysongs,practisingtheircountrysports,andgazingwithtirelessdelightatthefireworksinthespacious_PlazadeAlfonsoDoce_,theworshippersgavethemselvesuptofrankestmerriment.Throughthedays,indeed,therewasneveranylackofnoisyjollity.Fromdawntodawnagaincannonwerebooming,drumsbeating,bagpipesskirling,tambourinesclattering,songsandcriesresoundingthroughthestreets.Fourpatientsinthehospitaldiedtheyearbefore,wewere



told,fromthedirecteffectsofthiscontinuousuproar.Butthethunderheightofthe_fiesta_isattainedtowardmidnightonthetwenty-fourth,the"EveofSantiago,"whenrocketsandfire-balloonsaresupplementedbysuchelaboratedevicesastheburningof"capricioustrees"andthedestructionofaMoorishfaçadebuiltfortheoccasionoutfromthewestfrontofthecathedral.Atthefirstignitionofthepowdertherecomesuchterrificcrashesandreverberatingdetonations,suchleapsandburstsofflame,thatthepeasanthostswaysbackandthechildrenscream.AnArabicdoorwaywithornatecolumns,flankedoneithersidebyawallofmanyarchesandsurmountedbyablood-redcross,dazzlesoutintooverwhelmingbrilliancy,allingreensandpurples,aglowing,scintillating,everchangingvision.Soonitislustrouswhiteandthen,inperishing,sendsupaswiftsuccessionofgiantrockets.ThefaçadeitselfisaveryAlhambraoffretandarabesque.This,too,withthunderburstsrevealsitselfasaflame-colored,sky-colored,sea-coloredmiracle,whichpalestogleamingsilverand,whilewereadaboveittheresplendentwords"ThePatronofSpain,"isblowntoatomsasasymbolofSantiago'svictoryovertheMoors.ThismakesanidealSpanishholiday,butthecost,bornebythecity,isheavy,thereisdistinctandincreasinginjurytothecathedralfabric,andallthisjubileeforarchaicvictoriesovertheMoslemseemstobemockedbythehardfactsofto-day.

TheSantiagofestivities,ofwhichthehalfhasnotbeentold,closedonThursdayafternoon,Julytwenty-seventh,withaprocessionthroughthestreets.Wewaitedawearywhileforitbeforethedoorswheretheoldjet-workersusedtosettheirbooths,amusingourselvesmeantimebywatchingthehousemaidsdrawingwaterfromthefountaininthesquarebelow.ThesesturdyGalicianswerearmedwithlongtintubeswhichtheydextrouslyappliedtothespoutingmouthsofthefountaingriffins,sodirectingthestreamintothestraight,iron-boundpails.Notfarawaythemarketwomencoveredtheflagswithredandgoldenfruit.Asaucybeggar-wench,withtheblackesteyesinSpain,demandedalms,andwhenwehadyieldeduptheusualtollofcoppers,loudlyprayedtoSantiagotopardonusfornothavinggivenhermoreonthishisholyfestival.Atlastoutsalliedtheband,followedbythose

inevitablegiants,andamidmadringingofbellsandfizzingofinvisiblerockets,forthfromthevenerableportalsissuedstandards,crosses,tapers,priestsinwhiteandgold,andplatformedeffigiesofpilgrims,saints,anddeities.Thencamebishops,cardinals,andarchbishop,ranksofmilitarybearingtapers,thealcaldeandhisassociatesinthecitygovernmentwithantiqueescortofbedizenedmace-bearers,asparklingstatueofSt.JamesonhorsebackbusilybeheadinghislegionsofMoors,abodyguardofallthepilgrimsinattendanceonhissaintship,andfinallythe_VirgendelPilar_,atwhosepassingalltheconcoursefellupontheirknees.Churchesinthelineofmarchhadtheirownimagesdeckedandready,waitinginthecolonnadedporchestofallintotheprocession.ThemarketwomenandthemaidsatthefountainthrewkissestotheChristChild,leaningin

bluesilkfrockandwhitelacetuckeragainstacrossofroses,buttheboyswavedtheircapsforSt.Michael,debonairthathewaswithblowingcrimsonrobe,realfeatherwingsflutteringinthebreeze,andhisgoldfootsetonthegreenestofdragons.

Theprocessioncamehomebywayofthegreatwestdoors,openedonlythisonceintheroundyear.Thesettingsun,bringingoutallthecarvenbeautyofthatdarkgrayfaçade,glitteredonthegoldenballsandcrossesthattipthenobletowers,andonthegoldenstaffofSt.JamesandthegoldenquillofSt.John,wherethetwosonsofthunder



standcolossalintheirloftyniches.Ababy,inyellowkerchiefandcherryskirt,toddlingaloneacrossthecentreofthesquare,pointedwithadoringlittlehandatthemountedimageofSantiago,whichhaltedatthefootofthegrandstairway,hisliftedswordalineofgoldenlight,whilethedeep-voicedchoirchantedhisoldtriumphalhymn.JohnBullandtheBritishMatron,stationingthemselvesoneithersideasaguardofhonor,staredathimwithinsularcontempt.Asthechantceased,St.Jameschivalrouslymadewayforthe_VirgendelPilar_,aslenderfigureofpuregoldpoisedonanazuretabernacle,tomountthestepsbeforehim.Thebellspealedouttowelcomeherasshenearedtheportals,andanear-splittingexplosionofamonsterrocket,withatempest-rainofsparks,announcedtheinstantofherentrancebeneaththechiselledarch.Behindherwentthepenitents,arduouslyclimbingthelongstoneflightsofthatquadruplestairwayupontheirknees.These,too,werebutshadowsofthosemediævalpenitentswhoofoldstaggeredafterthisprocession,bowedundertheweightofcrosses,orscourgingthemselvesuntiltheyfaintedintheirowntrailofblood.Yetitisstillstrangeandtouchingtosee,longaftertheinnerspacesofthecathedralaredimwithevening,thosekneelingfiguresmakingtheirpainfulprogressaboutaislesandambulatory,sobbingastheygo,andfallingforwardontheirfacestokissthepavementthatisbruisingthem.

[Illustration:SANTIAGOCATHEDRAL]

XXVII

VIGOANDAWAY

HastalaVista!

OurplanforthesummerincludedareturntripacrossSpain,_via_ Valladolid,Salamanca,andSaragossatoBarcelonaandtheBalearic

Isles;butthebadfoodandworselodgingofGalicia,theblazingheatandtheincessant,exhaustingwarfareagainstvermin,hadbeguntotell.ThatSpanishfeverwithwhichsomanyforeignersmaketoointimateacquaintancewasatourdoors,andwefoundourselvesforcedatlasttosacrificeenthusiasmtohygiene.ThemosteccentrictrainwhichitwasevermyfortunetoencountershuntedandswitchedusacrosscountrytoVigoinaboutthetimeitwouldhavetakentomakethejourneydonkeyback.Herewetarriedforaweekorso,gatheringstrengthfromtheAtlanticbreezes,andwhen,onesunnyAugustday,astatelysteamboatcalledforanhouratVigoharboronherwayfromBuenosAyrestoSouthampton,wewentupovertheside.Ourshockofastonishmentatthecleanlinessarounduscouldnot,however,divertourattentionlongfromtherecedingshoresofSpain,towardwhichone

ofus,atleast,stillfeltastubbornlonging.

Theylaybrightinthemiddaysunshine,thosegreenuplandsofGalicia,mysteriouswiththatpatientpeasantlifeofwhichwehadcaughtfleeting,bafflingglimpses.Stillweseemedtoseethebrown-leggedwomenwashinginthebrookandspreadingtheircoarse-spun,gay-borderedgarmentsontheheather;children,withthefacesoflittlePatsandlittleBiddies,tuggingableatingsheepacrossthestepping-stones,orboostinganindignantgoatoverthewall;leanpigspokingtheirnosesoutofthelow,stonedoorways,



wherebabiessleptonwispsofhay;girlsincream-coloredkerchiefs,starredwithgold,bearingloadsoffragrantbrushorcordedfagotsontheirheads.Astheeveningshouldcomeon,andthesea-breezestirthetasselsofthemaize,weknewhowthefieldswouldbedottedwithimpromptugroupsofdancers,leapinghigherandhigherandwavingtheirarmsineverwildermerriment,--ascenepastoraldowntothepigs,andpoeticuptothosegushesofsongthatdelightthelistener.

"IwenttothemeadowDayafterday,TogathertheblossomsOfAprilandMay,AndtherewasMercedes,Alwaysthere,SweetestwhitelilyThatbreathestheair."

"North-wind,North-wind,Strongaswine!Blowthou,North-wind,Comrademine!"

"TheVirginisspreadinghandkerchiefsOntherosemarytodry.

Thelittlebirdsaresinging,Andthebrookisrunningby.

"TheVirginwasheshandkerchiefs,Andspreadstheminthesun,ButSt.Joseph,outofmischief,Hasstoleneveryone."

ItwasonlynowandthenthatwehadrealizedatouchofgenuinefellowshipwiththeseGalicianpeasants.Irememberalittlethirteenth-centurychurch,graycrossestoppingitslowgraytowers,oneofwhichwasbrokenoffasifagianthandhadsnappedit.Intheporchawhite-headedwoman,inagold-edgedbluekerchiefand

poppy-redskirt,washoldingadame-school.Ittookherallthemorningsession,shetoldus,togetthefiftyfaceswashed,butintheafternoonthechildrenlearnedtoreadandknitandplaythechoralgames.Shehadtencentsamonthforeverychild,whentheparentswereabletopay.FromaconvenienthollowinapillarofArabictraditionsheproudlydrewherlibrary,--ashabbyprimerandafewlooseleavesofabookofdevotion.Aswetalked,themidgetsgrewsorestlessandinquisitivethatsheshookherlongrodatthemwithamightyshowoffierceness,andshooedthemoutoftheporchlikesomanychickens.Thenshewentoneagerlywiththestoryofherlife,tellinghowshewasmarriedatfifteen,howherhusbandwent"toservetheking"inthesecondCarlistwar,andnevercameback,andhowheronlydaughterhadborneninechildren,ofwhomeightdiedinbabyhood,

"_angelitosalcielo_,"havingknownonearth"onlythedayandthenight."Thelastandyoungesthadbeenveryillwiththefever,andtheafflictedgrandmotherhadpromisedthatnobleRomanmaiden,themartyrsaintofthelittlegraychurch,togoaroundtheedificeseventimesuponherknees,ifonlythechildmightlive.Thevowhadbeenheard,asthepresenceofathin-faced,wistfultotbytheoldwoman'ssideattested,butsofaronlythreeofthesevencircuitshadbeenmade."Ittiresthekneesmuch."Butevenwiththewordsshekneltagain,kissingthesacredthreshold,andbeganthepainful,heavy,shufflingjourneyaroundthechurch,whilethebaby,withwondering



grayeyes,trottedbesideher,clingingtothewrinkledhand.Whenatlast,withpuffsandgroanings,theolddamehadreachedthecarvendoorwayagain,sherosewearily,rubbingherknees.

"Asweetsaint!"shesaid,"but_aydemi!_suchgravel!"

Weought,ofcourse,tohavebeenimpressedinGaliciawithitsdebasingignoranceandsuperstition,andso,toacertainextent,wewere.Wewenttoseea_romeria_,apilgrimagetoahilltopshrine,ononeofourlastafternoonsinVigo,andfoundadoublelineofdirty,impudentbeggars,strippedhalfnaked,anddisplayingeverysortofhideousdeformity,--alinethatreachedallthewayfromthecarriage-roaduptheruggedascenttothecrest.Wehadtorunthegantlet,anditwasliketraversingademoniacsculpture-gallerymadeupofhumanmockeries.Wehadtopushourway,moreover,throughsceneaftersceneofvulgarbarterinthingsdivine,andwhenatlastthesummitwasachieved,theshrineoftheVirginseemedrobbedofitsglorybytheugliness,vice,andmiseryitoverlooked.Spainismediæval,andthemodernagecanteachhermuch.Butwithallherphysicalfoulnessandmentalfolly,therestilldwellsinherthatmediævalgraceforwhichhappiercountriesmaybesearchedinvain.

YetSpainisfarfromunhappy.Itisbeautifultoseeoutofwhatscantallowanceofthatwhichwecallwell-being,maybeevolved

wisdomandjoy,poetryandreligion.Weariedaswetwobookishtravellerswerewithlecturesandlibraries,werejoicedinthiswildGalicianlorethatlivesonthelipsofthepeople.ThewrittenSpanishliterature,likeotherSpanisharts,isoftherichest,norareitslaurelslimitedtothedatesofCervantesandCalderon.ThemodernSpanishnovel,forinstance,asMr.Howellssogenerouslyinsists,allbutleadstheline.ButSpainherselfispoetry.Whatdoesonewantofbooksinpresenceofherstoried,hauntedvistas,--warrior-trodAsturiancrags,opalescentreachesofCastilianplain,orange-scentedgardensofAndalusia?AcircleofcultivatedSpaniardsisoneofthemostcharminggroupsonearth,butSpaniardsaltogetherinnocentofformaleducationmaybewalkinganthologiesofoldballads,spicyquatrains,riddles,proverbs,fables,epigrams.The

peasantquotes"DonQuixote"withoutknowingit;thedonkey-boyisaslyricasRomeo;thedevoutshepherdtellsalegendoftheMadonnathatishalfthedreamofhisownlonelydaysamongthehills.WhereSpanishlifeismoststrippedofmaterialprosperity,itseemsmosttoaboundinsuggestionsofromance.ThisdespisedGalicia,theprovinceofsimpletons,isliteraryinitsownway.Thehovelhasnobookshelf,butthechildren'searsdrinkinthegrandmother'scroon:--

"OnamorningofSt.JohnFellasailorintothesea.'Whatwiltthougiveme,sailor,sailor,IfIrescuethee?'

"'Iwillgivetheeallmyships,Allmysilver,everygem,Allmygold,--yea,wifeanddaughters,Iwillgivetheethem.'

"'WhatcareIformastedships,WhatcareIforgoldorgem?Keepthywifeandkeepthydaughters,WhatcareIforthem?



"'OnthemorningofSt.JohnThouartdrowninginthesea.Promisemethysoulatdying,AndI'llrescuethee.'

"'IcommendtheseatoGod,Andmybodytothesea,Andmysoul,SweetMotherMary,Icommittothee.'"

AndwellitwasforthisboldmarinerthathedidnottakeuptheDevil'soffer,foreverybodyknowsthatthosewhohavesignedawaytheirsoulstotheDevilturnblackinthemomentofdying,andareborne,blackandhorrible,tothesepulchre.

InthisnorthwesterncornerofSpainaremanymountain-songsaswellassea-songs.Oneofthesweetesttellshowtheblue-robedVirginmetayoungshepherdessuponthehillsandwassopleasedwiththemaiden'scourtesythatshestraightwayboreherthencetoParadise,notforgetting,thistenderMaryofBethlehem,toleadtheflocksafelybacktothesheepfold.TheloveoftheGalicianpeasantryfor"OurLady"blendschildlikefamiliaritywithimpassioneddevotion.

"AsIwastellingmybeads,

Whilethedawnwasred,TheVirgincametogreetmeWithherarmsoutspread."

Herrankintheiraffectionsiswellsuggestedbyanotherofthepopular_coplas_.

"IntheporchofBethlehem,Sun,Moon,andStar,TheVirgin,St.Joseph,AndtheChristChildare."

WiththeirsaintstheseSpanishpeasantsseemalmostonahousehold

footing,notafraidofajestbecausesosureofthelovethatunderliesit.

"St.JohnandMaryMagdalenPlayedhideandseek,thepair,TillSt.Johnthrewashoeather,Becauseshedidn'tplayfair."

Yetthereisnolackoffearinthisrusticreligion.Thereismanya"shaltnot"intheGaliciandecalogue.Onemustnottrytocountthestars,lesthecometohaveasmanywrinklesasthenumberofstarshehascounted.Neverrockanemptycradle,forthenextbabywhosleepsinitwilldie.SooftenasyounametheDevilinlife,sooftenwill

heappeartoyouinthehourofdeath.Ifyouhearanothernamehim,callquickly,beforetheDevilhastimetoarrive,"Jesusishere."Itisilltodancealone,castingyourshadowonthewall,becausethatisdancingwiththeDevil.ButthePrinceofDarknessisnottheonlysupernaturalbeingwhomGaliciansdread.Thereisableatingdemonwhomakesfunofthem,cloudygiantswhostirupthunderstorms,andareafraidonlyofSt.Barbara,witcheswhocasttheevileye,butmostofallthe"soulsinpain."Foroftentimesthedeadcomebacktoearthfortheirpurgatorialpenance.Youmustneverslamadoor,norcloseawindowroughly,norkickthesmallestpebblefromyourpath,because



indoororstoneorwindowmaybeasufferingsoul.Toseeoneistodiewithintheyear.Ifyouwouldnotbehauntedbyyourdead,kisstheshoeswhichthebodywearstotheburial.

Itiswelltogoearlytobed,foratmidnightallmannerofevilbeingsprowlupanddownthestreets.Whohasnotheardofthatunluckywoman,who,afterspinninglateandlong,steppedtothewindowforabreathofairexactlyattwelveo'clock?Faroffacrosstheopencountryshesawastrangeprocessionofshiningcandlesdrawingnearerandnearer,althoughtherewerenohandstoholdthemandnosoundofholysong.Straighttowardherhousecamethoseuncannylights,movingsilentlythroughthemeadowmists,andhaltedbeneathherwindow.Thentheforemostoneofallbeggedhertotakeitinandkeepitcarefullyuntilthemidnightfollowing.Scarcelyknowingwhatshedid,sheclosedherfingersonthecoldwaxand,blowingouttheflame,laidawaythetaperinatrunk,butwhen,atdaybreak,afterasleeplessnight,sheraisedthelid,beforeherlayacorpse.Aghast,shefledtothepriest,wholentheralltherelicsofthesacristy;buttheirunitedpoweronlyjustavailedtosaveherfromthefuryofthespiritswhentheyreturnedatmidnighttoclaimthetaper,expecting,moreover,toseizeuponthewomanand"turnhertofireandashes."

Sometimesapoorsoulispermittedtocondensetheslowagesof

Purgatoryintoonehourofuttermosttorment.Galicianstellhowayoungpriestbroughthisserving-maidtosorrowandhow,toescapethelatterburning,sheshutherself,onedaywhenthepriestwasengagedintheceremonialofHighMass,intothered-hotoven.Onhisreturn,hecalledhernameandsoughtherhighandlow,andwhen,atlast,heopenedtheovendoor,outflewawhitedovethatsoared,apurifiedandpardonedsoul,intotheblueofheaven.Thescienceofthissimplefolkisnotdivorcedfrompoetryandreligion.Therainbowdrinks,theysay,intheseaandintherivers.TheMilkyWay,theRoadtoSantiago,istroddeneverynightbypale,dimmultitudeswhofailedtomakethatblessedpilgrimage,fromwhichnooneofuswillbeexcused,intimeoflife.Whentheduststirsinanemptyhouse,goodSt.Anaissweepingthere.Whenbabieslookupwardandlaugh,theyseethe

cherubsatplay.TuesdayistheunluckydayinSpain,whereaschildrenbornonFridayreceivethegiftofsecond-sight,andthosewhoentertheworldonGoodFridayaremarkedbyacrossintheroofofthemouthandhavetheholytouchthatcuresdiseases.Itisafortunatehousebeneathwhoseeavestheswallowbuilds,

"ForswallowsonMountCalvaryPluckedtenderlyawayFromthebrowsofChristtwothousandthorns,Suchgraciousbirdsarethey."

[Illustration:ST.JAMES]

TheGalicians,buttofallSpainfortheirdulness,areshrewdenoughinfact.Itissaidthatthosearrantknaves,thegypsies,darenotpassthroughGaliciaforfearofbeingcheated.Likeotherunletteredpeasants,Gallegoswhettheirwitsonrhymingriddles.

"Whoisthelittlepigeon,Blackandwhitetogether,ThatspeakssowellwithoutatongueAndflieswithoutafeather?"



"Atreewithtwelveboughsandfournestsonabough,Ineachnestsevenbirdlings,--unriddlemenow."

InmanyoftheirproverbialsayingsonegetstheSpanishtangatitsbest."Awell-filledstomachpraisesGod."

"WhytoCastileForyourfortunego?Aman'sCastileIsunderhishoe."

AndIfearifmycomradeweretospeak,inSpanishphrase,ofourreturntoGalicia,shewouldbidSt.Jamesexpectus"onJudgmentDayintheafternoon."

WorksbyAliceMorseEarle

CHILDLIFEINCOLONIALDAYS

_ProfuselyIllustrated_

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THEMACMILLANCOMPANY66FIFTHAVENUENEWYORK

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Spanish Highways & Byways (Public Domain)

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