SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying...

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COMMISSIONED REPORT Commissioned Report No.255 Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas (ROAME No. F05NC701) For further information on this report please contact: Simon Brooks Scottish Natural Heritage Great Glen House INVERNESS IV3 8NW Telephone: 01463 725315 E-mail: [email protected] This report should be quoted as: David Tyldesley and Associates (2007). Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas. Scottish Natural Heritage Commissioned Report No.255 (ROAME No. F05NC701). This report, or any part of it, should not be reproduced without the permission of Scottish Natural Heritage. This permission will not be withheld unreasonably. The views expressed by the author(s) of this report should not be taken as the views and policies of Scottish Natural Heritage. © Scottish Natural Heritage 2007. Leachkin Road

Transcript of SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying...

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C O M M I S S I O N E D R E P O R T

Commissioned Report No.255

Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas

(ROAME No. F05NC701)

For further information on this report please contact:

Simon Brooks Scottish Natural Heritage Great Glen House

INVERNESS IV3 8NW Telephone: 01463 725315 E-mail: [email protected]

This report should be quoted as:

David Tyldesley and Associates (2007). Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas. Scottish Natural Heritage Commissioned Report No.255 (ROAME No. F05NC701).

This report, or any part of it, should not be reproduced without the permission of Scottish Natural Heritage. This permission will not be withheld unreasonably. The views expressed by the author(s) of this report should not be taken as the views and policies of Scottish Natural Heritage.

© Scottish Natural Heritage 2007.

Leachkin Road

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Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s

National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report No. 255 (ROAME No. F05 701) Contractor: David Tyldesley and Associates Year of publication: 2007

NC

Background This study relates to the 40 National Scenic Areas (NSAs) designated in Scotland in 1978, by the Countryside Commission for Scotland (now SNH) and subsequently endorsed by the Scottish Government. The aim of this study is:

a) to develop an approach for the assessment of an initial list of the special qualities of NSAs, which can be used in later procedures relating to management strategies and public consultation;

b) to pilot this approach in five NSAs in order to test its appropriateness; and c) to produce written guidance that will enable application of the approach to other

NSAs. It is envisaged that the approach developed in this study and its written guidance will be applied to the remaining NSAs and will inform draft guidance on NSA Management Strategies. Main findings The research examined early work carried out in Scotland with a view to identifying scenic value and special areas. This developed into an analysis of how the NSAs in Scotland were identified and designated and a very broad analysis of the 40 NSAs. The study also examined a small number of previous projects that had identified the special qualities of NSAs, for different reasons. The research then looked more widely at how the special qualities of areas, designated or otherwise recognised for their landscape or scenic value, had been identified in Britain, global conventions, Europe and America. Research showed that special qualities may be grouped into categories such as landform, land use, land cover, settlement, authenticity and integrity, emotional response, visual experience, wildlife, history and culture. Experience elsewhere also showed that special places are not necessarily places where the rare or unusual occur. Those identifying special qualities elsewhere recognise that it is the way that the sometimes quite commonplace characteristics interact, or the way that they combine, that makes a particular area special. Those responsible for designating, or otherwise identifying, the special-ness of places simply assume that these qualities will be

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COMMISSIONED REPORT

Summary

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recognisable when they occur; by definition they are special and therefore ought not to be difficult to identify. Detailed or esoteric attempts to pre-define special qualities or tell people how to recognise them, or how to distinguish them from the ordinary are universally deemed to be unnecessary. There is a danger of presenting a methodology that gives the impression that the process is more sophisticated than it actually is. The method was developed through an iterative process of discussion, experimentation, trial and adaptation before and during the five pilot applications in the selected NSAs. The method proved satisfactory and capable of adaptation where necessary, whilst maintaining consistency. A team of two to four professionals work on every stage through a process of desk study, fieldwork and analysis to identify the special qualities by consensus. Landscape character assessment plays a valuable role in the process. Fieldwork is assisted by the use of pre-prepared maps and notes and by structured field sheets. The results of the desk study and fieldwork will produce a series of descriptions of the key characteristics of the NSA, or spatially variable units within it. From these the team selects those characteristics which alone or in combinations are ‘special’, those qualities that individually or when combined together make the area special in terms of its landscape or scenery. This is a challenging task but trials have demonstrated that outputs are realistic, repeatable, resonant, relevant to people, respected, robust and related to the scenery and landscape.

For further information on this project contact: Simon Brooks, SNH, Great Glen House, Leachkin Road, Inverness IV3 8NW (01463 725315).

For further information on the SNH Research & Technical Support Programme contact: Policy & Advice Directorate Support, SNH, Great Glen House, Leachkin Road, Inverness, IV3 8NW.

Tel: 01463–725 000 or [email protected]

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Acknowledgements

The authors are grateful to the many officers who supplied relevant material or references to inform this report and to the following officers who discussed the issues by telephone: Peter Abbott, Peak District National Park Authority; Katherine Blake, Dedham Vale AONB and Stour Valley Project Manager; Jill Bullen, LANDMAP coordinator, Countryside Council for Wales; Anna Johnson Dumfries and Galloway NSA Project Officer; Sarah Parkinson Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park Authority; and Christine Tudor, Natural England (the Countryside Agency, Landscape Access and Recreation at the time of the discussion). Thanks are also due to the Steering Group of SNH, comprising Simon Brooks (Chair) James Fenton and Ross Allan. Project Team

The project team from David Tyldesley and Associates comprised: David Tyldesley, Landscape Architect, Environmental Manager and Planner – project manager, research, method development and fieldwork leader for 2 NSAs. Anthony Brown, Landscape Architect and Planner – fieldwork leader for 3 NSAs. Graham Bradford, Environmental Planner – research, method development and fieldwork for 3 NSAs. Ros Deeming, Environmental Planner – research and fieldwork for 2 NSAs. Rachel Hoskin, Ecologist – research and fieldwork for 2 NSAs.

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CONTENTS Page

Summary.................................................................................................................................. i Acknowledgements.................................................................................................................iii PART A: RESEARCH REPORT ........................................................................................... 1 1. Outline of the Research and Evolution of the Method................................................. 2

The Brief ............................................................................................................... 2 Outline of Research Approach and this Report .................................................... 2 Special Qualities................................................................................................... 3

2. Early Work to Assess Scenic Value in Scotland ......................................................... 4 3. The Selection of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas .................................................... 6 4. The Forty National Scenic Areas ................................................................................ 9 5. Previous Projects Defining Special Qualities of the National Scenic Areas.............. 11

Loch Rannoch and Glen Lyon NSA .................................................................... 11 Dumfries and Galloway NSAs, e.g. East Stewartry Coast NSA.......................... 11 Wester Ross........................................................................................................ 11

6. Identifying and Analysing Special Qualities .............................................................. 13 Work in Scotland ................................................................................................. 13 Work in the National Parks in England and Wales.............................................. 15 Work in the Areas of Outstanding National Beauty in England ......... 17 ..................Other evaluation methods in Britain .................................................................... 18 International Perspectives ................................................................................... 20 Discussions with specialists ................................................................................ 22 Conclusions from other work defining special qualities....................................... 23

7. Developing a Method to Identify Special Qualities.................................................... 25 Setting the parameters ........................................................................................ 25 Relationship with the designation criteria ............................................................ 25 The role of Landscape Character Assessment ................................................... 26 Why a wide community must participate ............................................................. 27 The scope of special qualities previously defined in other assessments ............ 28 The recommended approach .............................................................................. 30 Summary of the evolution of the method............................................................. 32 Resources ........................................................................................................... 35

PART B: GUIDANCE ON IDENTIFYING THE SPECIAL QUALITIES OF SCOTLAND’S NATIONAL SCENIC AREAS ............................................................................................... 37 8. Identifying the Special Qualities of National Scenic Areas........................................ 38

Step 1 – desk preparation ................................................................................... 39 Step 2 – drawing the boundary ........................................................................... 39 Step 3 – understanding the NSA......................................................................... 39 Step 4 – familiarisation survey ............................................................................ 43 Step 5 – period of reflection and initial listing of special qualities........................ 43 Step 6 – identifying survey viewpoints and routes in the NSA ............................ 45 Step 7 – detailed fieldwork .................................................................................. 46

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Step 8 – deciding what is ‘special’....................................................................... 48 Step 9 – comparing with Scotland’s Scenic Heritage.......................................... 49 Step 10 – describing what is ‘special’.................................................................. 50

PART C: THE SPECIAL QUALITIES OF THE PILOT NATIONAL SCENIC AREAS ......... 53 9. The Special Qualities of Assynt - Coigach National Scenic Area.............................. 54

10. The Special Qualities of Ben Nevis and Glencoe National Scenic Area................... 59 11. The Special Qualities of Knapdale National Scenic Area ......................................... 64 12. The Special Qualities of the Trossachs National Scenic Area .................................. 68 13. The Special Qualities of Upper Tweeddale National Scenic Area ............................ 72 References........................................................................................................................... 75 Research Bibliography....................................................................................................... 78

Figures 1. National Scenic Areas in Scotland ...................................................................... 10 2. Process Flowchart .............................................................................................. 38 3. Deciding what is special - a guide to the approach............................................. 49

Tables

1. Examples of special qualities previously defined: grouped by general topic....... 28 2. Examples of special qualities that may inform the method statement................. 29 3. How the special qualities could be identified....................................................... 31 4. Suggested time inputs......................................................................................... 36

Appendices 1. Fieldwork outputs Assynt - Coigach National Scenic Area .................................812. Fieldwork outputs Ben Nevis and Glen Coe National Scenic Area 3. Fieldwork outputs Knapdale National Scenic Area 4. Fieldwork outputs The Trossachs National Scenic Area 5. Fieldwork outputs Upper Tweeddale National Scenic Area 6. Recommended field sheets for use in fieldwork

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PART A: RESEARCH REPORT

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1. OUTLINE OF THE RESEARCH AND EVOLUTION OF THE METHOD

The Brief

1.1 This study is commissioned by Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH). It relates to the 40 National Scenic Areas designated in Scotland in 1978, by the Countryside Commission for Scotland (now SNH) and subsequently endorsed by the Scottish Government.

1.2 The aim of this study is:

a) to develop an approach for the assessment of the special qualities of National Scenic Areas (NSAs), why these areas are considered of particular value;

b) to pilot this approach in five NSAs in order to test its appropriateness; and c) to produce written guidance that will enable application of the approach to

other NSAs. 1.3 This study is the first phase of a two-phase study, the second phase being the

application of the approach to assess the special qualities for the remainder of the NSA suite. It is envisaged that the approach developed in this study and its written guidance will also inform draft guidance on NSA Management Strategies that SNH is currently preparing.

Outline of the research approach and this report

1.4 The research commenced with an examination of the early work carried out in Scotland with a view to identifying scenic value and special areas (section 2 below). This developed into an analysis of how the NSAs in Scotland were identified and designated (section 3), and a very broad analysis of the 40 NSAs (section 4). A small number of previous projects had set out to identify the special qualities of NSAs, for differing reasons and these are summarised in section 5.

1.5 The research then progressed to look more widely at how the special qualities of

areas, designated or otherwise recognised for their landscape or scenic value, had been identified by others. Whilst the focus of this research was in Britain, examples were also drawn from global conventions, Europe and America (section 6).

1.6 Considerable discussion and experimentation led to the first suggested methodology,

which was discussed with the Steering Group. This method was further developed and refined, with some significant changes, and then discussed again with the steering group and also in structured telephone interviews with a number of informed professionals working in the field of special landscapes. Further evolution of the method preceded fieldwork, which started with a trial undertaken by four of the project team, working both individually and together, in the Trossachs NSA. The method proved satisfactory and was used in the remaining four pilot NSAs, although in each case adaptation was necessary. Section 7 describes the evolution of the methodology

1.7 The final version of the guidance on identifying special qualities was written after all

five pilots had been completed, to incorporate the experience gained (Part B, section 8). The special qualities of the five pilot NSAs are described in Part C (sections 9 – 13) and the fieldwork outputs are reproduced in appendices 1 – 5.

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Special Qualities

1.8 It is helpful to define the meaning of key terms at the outset of this report. In the context of this study special qualities are simply defined in accordance with plain English: ‘special’ means “better, greater or otherwise different from what is usual”, and can also mean “belonging to a particular …. place”. The word ‘qualities’ means (in the singular) “a distinctive attribute or characteristic possessed by … something” (Pearsall, J. et al, 2001). Special qualities are here defined more widely than ‘scenic qualities’ would be, which may be defined as the distinctive attributes or characteristics related to scenery, the visual qualities that people see in the countryside. This study sets out to identify a wider range of qualities, which make the NSAs special, than just their visually scenic value. This is discussed more fully in sections 6 to 8 below.

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2. EARLY WORK TO ASSESS SCENIC VALUE IN SCOTLAND 2.1 Recognising that the visual amenity of the countryside was important, attempts were

made in the late 1960s (Fines, 1967 and Linton, 1968) to develop methods for the evaluation and measurement of scenery. Professor D L Linton concluded that the scenic resources of an area depended on landform and land use, using the landform categories of the geomorphologist and applying the mantle of natural vegetation and human artefacts. This method was subsequently adapted for use in some area studies of countryside recreation.

2.2 Section 3 of the Countryside (Scotland) Act 1967, required the Countryside

Commission for Scotland (CCS) to keep under review all matters relating to the conservation and enhancement of the countryside’s natural beauty and amenity. In 1969, in order to further this duty, and encouraged by Government, CCS invited Land Use Consultants (LUC) to submit a proposal to show how the landscape of Scotland could be graded so as to promote its better protection and management.

2.3 LUC started the work in 1970, working on the underlying concepts of landscape

analysis and ways of classifying it. The consultants were to generate a method to be applied by CCS staff.

2.4 The report A Planning Classification of Scottish Landscape Resources (Land Use

Consultants, 1971) presented a rather complex methodology, based on the principle of ‘Landscape Tracts’. These were identified and recorded through a three stage process. Firstly, map based studies at 1/63,360 scale identified visually self-contained tracts with high relief ranges as a starting point. Primary landform characteristics were recorded from the maps, i.e. river, coast, valley, plateau etc. A general desk analysis of vegetation types and ground cover followed, i.e. moorland, woodland, enclosed farmland etc. Secondly, fieldwork surveys sought to clarify boundaries, ground cover detail and a determination of quality via a scoring method of primary and secondary elements and their influence on overall landscape. The third stage was an office based rationalisation of findings thus far, with landscape sub-types identified and quality classes emerging. Each tract was then allocated a final score and categorised as to its landscape importance accordingly.

2.5 The report A Planning Classification of Scottish Landscape Resources was published

for consultation in September 1971, but work on a pilot study by CCS’s own landscape architect had started in May 1971, assisted by the CCS Planning Officer. Serious difficulties became apparent, including the difficulty of achieving comparable results when the two officers independently applied the system in the same area. During that year, several university departments and planning schools also experimented with the LUC system, their observations reinforcing the views being expressed by Commission staff that the method was probably unworkable.

2.6 Nevertheless, CCS persisted with the trials and a further programme of pilot studies

was initiated in late 1971 to include testing of modifications suggested by the Planning Officers.

2.7 During 1972 meetings with the Nature Conservancy Council and Manchester

University were influential in the evolution of the method, the university being able to bring their experience of landscape classification work in England for the Countryside Commission. Aerial photograph analysis was also considered.

2.8 In December 1972, the Commission considered a progress report (CCS(72)83) which

included a summary of the LUC method; discussion of the visual tract concept;

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criteria used for assessing landscape character; an analysis of the objectivity and precision of the survey; manpower and technical aids; further work required to complete the pilot study and organisation of the next stage of work.

2.9 During 1973 progress slowed but various alternative approaches were investigated to

overcome the growing difficulties experienced in using the LUC method. 2.10 In a three-part report completed in February 1974 the assistant Landscape Officer of

CCS concluded that the method for classifying landscape as recommended by LUC was unworkable and that as an alternative course, the Commission should carry out an inventory of landscape characteristics.

2.11 CCS(74)78, presented to the Commission in May 1974, recommended that further

investigation of the LUC method should cease but recognised the contribution that the LUC proposals had made to improving understanding of landscape issues.

2.12 At this time, the Commission’s work on the concept of a Parks System for Scotland,

described below, was also being developed with cross-fertilisation of ideas between the two approaches. The influence of the ‘Park System’ was considerable and eventually led to the evolution of NSAs.

2.13 During the evolution and testing of the LUC method (1970-74) the CCS was aware of

other work. Firstly, by Professor Linton of the Department of Geography, University of Edinburgh (1969-72) based on a gradation of 2km by 2km grid squares to assess the recreational value of landscape around Edinburgh. Secondly, the work of the Centre for Urban and Regional Research of University of Manchester (Robinson, 1970-75) for the Countryside Commission recommending two methodologies for landscape evaluation, one a predictive method constrained by the use of multiple regression analysis, the other a simpler system similar to that developed by LUC for CCS.

2.14 Upon the abandonment of the LUC approach described above, in 1974, CCS officers

considered an alternative approach to assess scenic quality and the visual character of landscape derived from an understanding of landscape character, referred to as an “inventory approach”. However, this too was considered to be impractical largely because of high cost. The parallel work on a Park System for Scotland was considered to be the best way forward and formed the basis of NSA designation as described below.

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3. THE SELECTION OF SCOTLAND’S NATIONAL SCENIC AREAS 3.1 In May 1971 a Parliamentary Select Committee on Scottish Affairs (1972) was set up

by Government to consider land resource use in Scotland. The Select Committee invited the Commission to submit a paper setting out its views on the establishment of a national park system for Scotland and the management of scenic areas under recreational pressure.

3.2 A paper on this subject was prepared and considered by the Commission in March

1972, (CCS(72)4) and approved for submission to the Select Committee. At a special meeting in June 1972, the Commission agreed in principle that there was a case to be made for a spectrum of park provision in Scotland, although the detail had still to be worked out (CCS(72)15).

3.3 In view of the impending reorganisation of local government, the Commission

pressed ahead with the development of its earlier thinking and at its meeting in April 1973, considered a paper which suggested the development of a park system with four main elements (CCS(73)36):

Category 1: Areas of national significance These would generally be of outstanding landscape character and overall policy in them would be geared to the protection of that character, with conservation as the primary objective. Some of these areas would be relatively remote and, in whole or in part, might have a wilderness character. Category 2: Areas of regional significance These would generally be of high landscape character in a regional rather than a national context and they would take a greater intensity of resource-based recreational use and local development for the indigenous population. Category 3: Areas of local significance These would have some landscape character, but generally would be comparatively small in size and would be developed fairly intensively for informal recreation. Country parks would be within this category. Category 4: A linear network This would comprise the network of roads, tracks and footpaths linking the main areas of the park system to one another and to the towns from which the users would come. It would also include roadside recreation areas.

The Commission’s thinking envisaged control of areas of national significance lying with some national agency, including the possibility that this agency might be the Commission itself.

3.4 The paper was sent to the Under Secretary of State and the Scottish Development

Department (SDD). The Department encouraged the Commission to continue the development of their thinking, whilst expressing certain reservations. The Department wanted to see an emphasis on the recreational opportunities available in the various levels of park proposed. The Commission was also discouraged from promoting proposals which would reduce the control of planning authorities.

3.5 Following a consultation programme in 1973, CCS adapted the proposals to provide

for a system based upon a recreational strategy and for a separate proposal to be made to provide for greater national involvement in the protection of natural beauty

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and amenity in areas thought to be of national significance. This was a watershed which shaped Commission policy, with equal priority given to landscape assessment work, leading to the eventual definition of National Scenic Areas. It also marked the coming together of the two parallel areas of research on a planning classification of landscape resources (section 1 above) and the park system concept (Countryside Commission for Scotland, 1974).

3.6 It was decided that further discussions on possible areas of national significance

would be helped by up to date information on a selection of places that might be suitable for designation. Fiona Leney was appointed to write a series of essays for ten selected study areas. These were selected on the basis of recommendations from earlier work –The Ramsay Committee (1945), The Hobhouse Committee (1947); W H Murray’s review of Highland Landscapes for the National Trust for Scotland (1962); and the Scottish Countryside Activities Council survey of wilderness for CCS in 1970.

3.7 The seven study areas derived from the earlier work were in the Highlands so three

other areas were selected in the Inner and Outer Hebrides and Galloway to provide a more representative sample of outstanding Scottish landscape. In time the ‘Park System’ approach as well as the ‘Resource Classification’ approach was abandoned.

3.8 Thus after several years persevering with more objective approaches, the CCS

embarked on a more intuitive, in-house, self justified, subjective analysis of scenic value, based on the experience of its own staff, supported by its own Board and drawing to a more limited extent on earlier works and descriptions of what was valued in the Scottish landscape. Thus, the essays helped to inform a developing programme of work that would lead to the intuitive selection of NSAs by the Commission and its staff, themselves.

3.9 In selecting the NSAs the Commission sought to identify scenery which best

combined those features which are most frequently regarded as beautiful. On the whole this meant that richly diverse landscapes which combine prominent landforms, coastline, sea and freshwater lochs, rivers, woodlands and moorlands with some admixture of cultivated land are generally the most prized. Not all of these features occur, however, in all the areas identified. Diversity of ground cover may be absent in some, but compensated for by especially spectacular landform or seascape. In Scotland, outstanding examples of such scenery are most frequently found north of or on the Highland Boundary Fault. Many of the more managed landscapes to the south and east, in areas of intensive agricultural activity were considered beautiful, but the CCS found it difficult to recognise many of these as being outstanding in a national or international sense. It examined the Southern Uplands carefully, aware that the subtler landforms and more managed landscapes found there made comparison with Highland scenery difficult. This kind of scenery was not replicated elsewhere and was considered to be pleasing to the eye attuned to it. CCS therefore sought to identify those parts of it which, while not exhibiting the same diversity of form as Highland Scotland, nevertheless combine pleasing physiography with varied land-use to provide “scenery of great charm and soft beauty”.

3.10 In many of the areas identified, the pattern of settlement was a contributing feature.

Crofting townships, ancient ecclesiastical settlements and the planned villages of the nineteenth century improvers were considered to add to the scene. Some small industrial towns or villages, dependent upon a major industry, were included because they were set in the midst of fine scenery and no useful purpose would be served by contriving to exclude them. This approach, carried out with care and consistency,

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was considered by the CCS to be a reasonable course to follow in a subject “not amenable to measurement in scientific terms”.

3.11 The method adopted for carrying out the survey was as follows. First, desk

appraisals of maps of the Scottish countryside at 1/50,000 scale were carried out to determine the likely extent and character of fine scenery. This work commenced with the five National Park Direction Areas, then moved on to the other areas that had been the subject of Fiona Leney’s essays and subsequently to further areas that commended themselves in the course of the survey, or which in the opinion of the surveyors from their extensive knowledge of the Scottish countryside were worthy of study. Although the method suggested by LUC was not applied in full, its approach to the analysis of map information was used as the basis for examining topographical maps. Literary sources were examined for opinions that had been expressed by others about the character of areas being considered. Planning documents produced by local authorities and by national agencies, such as the Nature Conservancy Council and the Forestry Commission, and by private bodies, such as the National Trust for Scotland, were also scrutinised for information on other designations such as Areas of Great Landscape Value, National Nature Reserves, Forest Parks and certain National Trust properties. With this basic appraisal of the likely extent of areas of fine scenery, the surveyors then made field inspections to form opinions as to the extent of landscape tracts which, for reasons of “diversity of landform, vegetation and/or ground cover, or other outstanding visual characteristics”, appeared to merit recognition as national assets.

3.12 An important aspect of this work was the ability of the Commission to use the same

surveyors throughout, thus providing consistency of view to the whole exercise. Not only had the same team carried out all the field survey work, with never less than two officers undertaking field examination of any particular area, but they had reported their findings to a senior staff steering group which had remained unchanged throughout the exercise. The proposals produced in this way had, in turn, been subjected to scrutiny by the Commission which included members with acknowledged expertise in the fields of assessment of scenic quality and rural land use.

3.13 The CCS deliberately did not analyse scenery in terms of its geology,

geomorphology, pedology, climate, natural history or cultural history. This is not because it thought these things unimportant in their influence on the scene, but because it believed that enjoyment of fine scenery is based on a perception of the whole which does not depend on more formal kinds of analysis. In particular, a conscious effort was made not to let individual specialisations influence choice: nor did it attempt to select scenery on a representative basis of all the different types of landscape which occur in Scotland. It was recognised that many attractive areas had to be omitted in the process of identifying and selecting only that which the CCS considered to be the very best.

3.14 The acceptance of this more subjective, consensus, well-informed judgement as to

what constituted the nationally important resource of scenery is implied by the adoption of the principle of NSAs in statute. Section 262C of the Town and Country Planning Act 1972 was inserted in 1986 to give statutory provision for NSAs, so that they could be referred to in other statutory provisions, such as exclusion from Simplified Planning Zones. Legislation refers to the requirements for the designation of a NSA to be an “area of outstanding scenic value and beauty in a national context”.

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4. THE FORTY NATIONAL SCENIC AREAS 4.1 Thirty nine of the 40 NSAs can readily be grouped into six broad types. Knapdale

does not readily fall into any of the main groups although it could be regarded as either Group 2 or Group 3.

4.2 The classification of the NSAs in this way is not intended to be a formal

categorisation, based on a detailed landscape assessment, but merely a convenient way of looking at their basic types, so providing a modest signpost, via the underlying selection process, to the special qualities the selectors may have discerned.

4.3 The seven groups are as follows

Group 1: Islands (4) Shetland (Foula & Fair Isle) Small Isles (Canna, Eigg, Muck, Rhum) St Kilda Scarba, Lunga and the Garvellachs Group 2: Mountains with Coast (12) Assynt - Coigach Cuillin Hills Hoy and Mainland (Orkney) Jura Knoydart Kyle of Tongue North Arran North West Sutherland Shetland (part) South Lewis, Harris and North Uist Trotternish Wester Ross Group 3: Coastal (9) Dornoch Firth East Stewartry Coast Fleet Valley Kyles of Bute Loch na Keal Lynn of Lorn Morar, Moidart, Ardnamurchan Nith Estuary South Uist Machair Group 4: Mountain Massif (2) Ben Nevis and Glen Coe Cairngorm Group 5: Highland Glens and Lochs (11) Deeside and Lochnaggar Glen Affric Glen Strathfarrar Kintail Loch Lomond Loch Rannoch and Glen Lyon Loch Shiel Loch Tummel River Earn (Comrie-St. Fillans) River Tay (Dunkeld) The Trossachs Group 6: Southern Upland Dales (2) Eildon and Leaderfoot Upper Tweeddale Group 7: Knapdale (1)

4.4 An examination of the 40 descriptions reveals the weight given in the selection

process to landform and broad land cover. It reveals the selectors’ eye for dramatic topography, sharp contrast, complexity of landscape features and the juxtaposition of land and sea or land and freshwater. The descriptions are short, rather sketchy, but nevertheless frequently evocative. There is little reference to settlements and settlement pattern and few references to history or culture.

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4.5 The 40 descriptions tend to reinforce the true basis of selection being, as the selectors honestly described, a process of subjective judgements based on informed consensus.

4.6 The selected NSAs concentrate on Highland, upland and coastal landscapes. Thirty-

three are located north and west of the Highland boundary fault. Fourteen are islands or part of islands.

Figure 1 – National Scenic Areas in Scotland

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5. PREVIOUS PROJECTS DEFINING SPECIAL QUALITIES OF THE NSAs 5.1 Three previously published projects have included a description of what was

considered to be the special qualities of an NSA. The aim of the Loch Rannoch and Glen Lyon Study of 1987 was to articulate clearly what essential features of the landscape needed to be conserved and enhanced, and to set out the steps whereby this aim could be realised. The Dumfries and Galloway and Wester Ross projects were intended to pilot the development of management strategies for NSAs as part of the drive to reinforce the designations. The special qualities were defined as follows:

5.2 Loch Rannoch and Glen Lyon NSA (1987)

In Loch Rannoch area

Loch Rannoch Richly wooded loch shores Black Wood of Rannoch Conical peak of Schiehallion Dunalastair Water Reed beds, meadows, willows, woodland fringe

In Glen Lyon area

Deeply incised valley, strong sense of enclosure Diversity of landscape character (e.g. mountains, meadows, rivers, etc.) Mountain summit (and alpine area) Birch and other deciduous woodlands Heather and blaeberry moorland Caledonian pinewoods Ornamental policy plantings and avenues Tree-lined burns

5.3 Dumfries and Galloway NSAs, e.g. East Stewartry Coast NSA (undated,

assumed 2002)

Complexity Diversity Intimacy of scale Change/movement Light Composition Harmony Landmarks Sensory qualities (climate, sounds, smell, peacefulness, naturalness) Summarised as a “sheltered, enclosed coastal landscape, valued for its peacefulness, intimacy, and sea views across the Solway”. The irregular topography, indented coastline and variety of land cover form a managed landscape of great complexity and diversity.

5.4 Wester Ross (2002)

Expansive space and distance Sense of height and vertical scale Uneven shape Indented coastline Sense of mass Sense of naturalness Richness of detail Composition – juxtaposition and contrast; proportion; successive layering

5.5 How the scenic qualities are experienced was also discussed and led to a spatial

variation expressed in a distribution map combining the scenic qualities by showing areas of:

Seaward experience Mountain core Coastal edge Eastern Hills Moorland expanse

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5.6 There are notable differences between the outputs. The 1987 Study of Loch Rannoch and Glen Lyon NSA is heavily based on a landscape character approach, with objective, almost ‘detached’ descriptions, by professionals, of mainly physical characteristics – lochs, moorland, pinewoods etc.

5.7 By contrast, the East Stewartry Coast qualities are strongly influenced by local

people’s perceptions, through a participative project that successfully articulated an intimate, community analysis of the experience and sense of place of the NSA, with very little reference to its physical characteristics. The outputs of this work, in 2002 (repeated in the other Dumfries and Galloway NSAs – Fleet Valley and Nith Estuary) concentrated on the subjective experience of landscape visually as in descriptions such as complexity and diversity, and non-visually such as intimacy and peacefulness.

5.8 The Wester Ross NSA work of 2002 provided an in-depth, professional, qualitative,

subjective description of the visual experiences of scenery, strongly orientated to perceptions and personal responses which provide “a sense of ….”, and how the whole forms a special combination.

5.9 Each study reflects something from the original designation citations in some way.

Each has its own, but different, strengths. All recognised the importance of the combination of characteristics, acknowledging the complexity and diversity of physical landform and land cover and elements that provided harmony. Importantly, each study recognised that the NSAs were not homogenous in terms of the special qualities and identified spatial variations in the form of sub-areas.

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6. IDENTIFYING AND ANALYSING SPECIAL QUALITIES

Work in Scotland

6.1 The Cairngorms National Park Authority (2005) undertook an analysis of the special qualities of the Park in 2004. It recognised that “each individual is likely to have a different perception of the special qualities, influenced by their connection to the area, knowledge and interests.” It concluded that the qualities expressed across a range of stakeholder interests and literary sources, fell into two broad categories: ‘natural’ and ‘cultural’. In respect of each, the National Park looked at ‘evidence based qualities’ and ‘experience based qualities’ and researched publications widely to draw on perceptions of the value of the area. It identified landscape, biodiversity and the human experience (including wildness, accessibility, tranquillity and recreation) as important themes of the natural heritage; and land use, people, traditions and recreation as important themes in the cultural heritage. It found a broad consensus existed between the communities and interest groups that shared the Cairngorms. “Above all, there appears to be a recognition that while there are many individual qualities, it is their particular combination that gives the area its unique identity. There are many qualities that the Cairngorms share with other areas, but their particular combination here is what makes the Park special.”

6.2 Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park Authority has also undertaken

considerable work to define the ‘special qualities’ of the Park. This work formed part of the preparations for the production of the National Park Plan, but is seen as having wider application in the future. It aimed to describe the concept of special qualities and the methodology that had been used to identify important heritage features and evaluate these and their contribution to the special qualities within the National Park. The methodology adapted the ‘Quality of Life Capital’ approach, discussed further in paragraph 6.19 below, following a series of steps which are summarised in paragraph 6.3. However, whereas Quality of Life Capital assesses some socio-economic and recreational aspects, the National Park work limited consideration to:

• sense of place / scenic qualities based on Landscape Character Assessment;

• cultural Heritage based on Historic Land use Assessment and designated sites, buildings and monuments etc.;

• biodiversity based on designated sites and biodiversity audits;

• geology based on geological Sites of Special Scientific Interest; and

• associations based on a range of literary sources, community futures profiles

and other records.

It recognised that individual features, such as woodlands, contribute to more than one of the qualities.

6.3 The Park was already divided for planning and management purposes into four

widely recognised ‘Landscape Areas’: Argyll Forest; Breadalbane; Loch Lomond and The Trossachs. The first step in the process was to divide some of these areas further, into a total of nine ‘Park Character Zones’, based on broad variations of landscape character. This had the effect of embedding landscape character into the whole process, as a primary influence on the assessment of special qualities, because the zones were defined on the basis of the Landscape Character Assessment.

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6.4 Step 2 broke down the 9 Park Character Zones into “more manageable units” based

on key variations in natural and cultural heritage, but in effect on the basis of the Landscape Character Types in the Landscape Character Assessment, merely recording for each Landscape Character Type the elements of the Historic Land use Assessment in the “key features and qualities”. Step 3 considered the benefits provided by the key features and qualities defined for each of the Landscape Character Types, in Step 2.

6.5 Step 4 sought to attach ‘importance’ to the features and qualities, where this was not

already evaluated (for example by a national or international designation). Where an evaluation had to be made, it was based on informed advice and professional judgement, using criteria that included distinctiveness, quality and condition, rarity, vulnerability, representativeness, setting, context, historical continuity, accessibility and popularity. Step 5 identified detectable trends or pressures acting on the key features and qualities, to help prioritise Park management. However, in practice little data was available and the analysis of change to the features and qualities relied on professional judgement, though this produced useful and rational outcomes. Step 6 drew up priorities for policy, based on the foregoing, and devised management objectives and opportunities for conservation or enhancement.

6.6 The key features and qualities could probably have been identified relatively easily by

local archaeological, ecological, geological, landscape and planning professionals. Outcomes strongly resemble the descriptions, pressures for change and guidelines sections of the Landscape Character Assessments in the Scotland-wide series, especially those that had stronger recognition of historical dimensions and historical change. For each Landscape Character Type there is only a handful of (usually only 2 – 6) objectives and opportunities.

6.7 Recognising the influence of the evaluation of benefits and prioritisation of

management objectives as a result of the work in Steps 3 – 6 is difficult in the first set of outcomes. Rather the work appears to address all the key features and qualities that have any indication of pressures for change, or opportunities, irrespective of their importance. Most would have been identified in the Guidelines section of a Landscape Character Assessment, usually with many others. Nevertheless, the work plays a valuable role in assembling a disparate range of datasets into a consistent and useful presentation, giving a rational explanation to the management objectives and opportunities on a consistent and (for the subjects covered) comprehensive basis across the Park. Its strength will be in this consistent expression of perceived features and qualities that non-environmental professionals would not be familiar with.

6.8 In the Guidance on Local Landscape Designations, SNH and Historic Scotland

(2005) also draw heavily on the combination of Landscape Character Assessment and Historic Land use Assessment, recommending that both are undertaken as a pre-requisite to refreshing the use of local landscape designations. These should help to identify what is locally typical, rare or unique and what condition the characteristics are in. The Guidance goes on to say (para 3.4) “In addition to these aspects of landscape character, a number of landscape qualities are also likely to be particularly relevant to the identification of valued landscapes for designation. While linked to the type, range and composition of the physical components of the landscape, these qualities are a function of our own personal response to landscape. Such qualities can be commonly recognised and valued, though they are influenced by a wide set of factors, including the prevailing social attitudes to landscapes”.

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6.9 The landscape qualities comprise the four interrelated qualities of scenic; enjoyment; cultural and naturalness. The Guidance recommends the use of landscape criteria (significance, representativeness and relative merit) and practical criteria (need, integrity and support), the former being of more relevance in this context. The Glossary contains the following definition of “landscape qualities – less tangible and experiential aspects of a landscape such as the appreciation of its beauty or history, its sense of wildness, or its challenge for recreation. While these qualities are dependent on individual perception, they are commonly recognised and valued by people.”

6.10 In July 2003, the National Trust for Scotland published a paper entitled Acquisitions

and Disposals: Evaluation of Heritage Significance, which established criteria for assessing the heritage significance of assets in respect of acquisition and disposal by the Trust. The paper distinguished between some natural aspects of landscape under natural heritage and, in a separate category, aesthetics including natural beauty, visual and aesthetic appreciation of landscape and nature, including scenic or picturesque places. The criteria for assessing significance used indicators of extent / completeness; naturalness / undisturbed; diversity; authenticity; corpus of evidence / study; threat / fragility; and continuity of use / demonstration.

Work in the National Parks in England and Wales

6.11 There is a general distinction between the ways in which the National Parks of

England and Wales have sought to identify their special qualities and those of the majority of the Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONBs) in England. The National Parks have generally been quite proactive in seeking public opinion as to what people, both residents and visitors, value. The AONBs, generally, have approached the definition of what is significant about the areas through a landscape character approach. Consequently, the published examples of descriptions of special qualities tend to be based either on subjective public responses or more descriptive character assessments.

6.12 The Research Bibliography provides a full list of documents examined in the

research. Whilst the following examples are drawn from the English Parks, similar illustrations could have been drawn from the Welsh Parks. The Lake District National Park canvassed public opinion twice, in 1997 during preparation of the Management Plan and again in 2002, as part of the research leading to World Heritage Site inscription. The National Park Authority (NPA) recognised that people’s responses depended on their definitions of ‘special’ and ‘quality’ and on their knowledge and experience of the Lake District compared to other places. However, the NPA could still identify qualities that, taken together, make the Lake District National Park special (see box 1).

Box 1: The Lake District National Park – “What’s so special? – Special Qualities”

Taken together, these are the special qualities

Complex geology Diverse landscape Concentration of Common Land Unique mosaic of lakes, tarns and rivers Wealth of habitats and wildlife Extensive semi-natural woodlands History of tourism and outdoor activities Opportunities for quiet enjoyment Open nature of the fells Rich archaeology Distinctive settlement pattern Celebrated social and cultural roots

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6.13 Similar consultation exercises in other National Parks have led to succinct descriptions of the special qualities of other National Parks, with the authority of public endorsement, see Boxes 2 to 5.

Box 2: “The Special Qualities of Dartmoor” - Dartmoor National Park Management Plan

(2001)

Taken together, these are the special qualities Peace and quiet Remoteness and solitude Unspoilt natural beauty Wide open spaces Wildness and wildlife (habitats) Freedom to roam Box 3: “The Special Qualities” of the North York Moors National Park -“What makes this a

special place?” (2005) Taken together, these are the special qualities Great diversity of landscape and sudden dramatic contrasts associated with this. Wide sweeps of open heather moorland with distinctive dales, valleys and inland headlands. An abundance of forest and woodland and ancient trees and woodland rich in wildlife. Special landforms from the Ice Age and exceptional coastal geology. Majestic coastal cliffs and sheltered harbours; distinctive coastal headlands. A special mix of upland, lowland and coastal habitats and a wide variety of wildlife dependent on these. Settlements which reflect their agricultural, fishing or mining past and locally distinctive buildings and building materials. Long imprint of human activity, a wealth of archaeology from pre-history to the 20th Century. A rich and diverse countryside for recreation with an extensive network of public paths and tracks. Strong religious past and present with ruined abbeys and ancient churches. Strong feeling of remoteness; a place for spiritual refreshment. Tranquillity; dark skies at night and clear unpolluted air. Distinctive skills, dialects, songs and customs; a strong sense of community and friendly people. A place of artistic, literary and scientific inspiration with a heritage of authors, artists, scientists and explorers. Box 4: “A very special place with very special qualities” the Northumberland National Park

(2005)

Taken together, these are the special qualities As summarised by the pupils of Rothbury Middle School: Tranquillity Spirit History Culture Wildlife Landscape

To which others have added: openness; peace and quiet; natural / traditional / unspoilt; wild / wilderness; remote; silence / solitude and diversity

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6.14 The Peak District National Park Plan brings together its special qualities as shown in box 5.

Box 5: The Special Qualities of the Peak District National Park - “What makes the Peak

District National Park a special place” (2002) Taken together, these are the special qualities Outstanding beauty and character of the landscape. Significant geological features. Sense of wildness and remoteness. Clean earth, air and water. Importance of wildlife and the area’s unique biodiversity. Thousands of years of human influence, which can be traced through the landscape. Distinctive character of villages and settlements. Wealth of historic buildings, gardens and parks. Opportunities for quiet enjoyment. Opportunities for outdoor recreation and adventure. Easy accessibility for visitors from surrounding urban areas. Vibrancy and sense of community. Customs, legends, traditions and arts. Environmentally-friendly methods of farming and working the land. Craft and cottage industries. The special value attached to the National Park by surrounding urban communities.

Work in the Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty in England 6.15 The Countryside Agency AONB Guidance (2002) states that AONB Management

Plans should include: “A Description of the AONB and an Assessment of its significance and special qualities. Information about the area itself should stress aspects that give unity to the AONB as a whole, while also identifying individual features or distinct zones within the AONB.” It does not, however, offer further guidance on how to identify the special qualities, or examples of what they might be.

6.16 Consequently, it is necessary to turn to examples of AONB Management Plans, to

see what special qualities have been identified and described in light of this guidance. The research bibliography provides a full list of documents examined in the research. It will be seen how the Surrey Hills concentrated almost exclusively on views; how a number of AONBs recognise the importance of landform, geology and geological / geomorphological features; the recognition of how building styles or materials lend harmony and distinctiveness to an area (e.g. the Cotswolds) and the value of diversity of land cover (especially woodlands) and the presence of water.

6.17 Despite the considerable diversity of examples, themselves representative of an even

greater diversity in the whole suite of AONBs, some general conclusions can be drawn. The special qualities of AONBs are primarily related to the harmony and / or contrast of their component landscape character types (moorland contrasting with valleys or the harmonious blend of river valley and estuarine areas); ‘richness’ and ‘diversity’; features characteristic of what is perceived to be an unspoilt typical ‘English’ upland or lowland landscape. For example, lowland hay meadows, large hedgerows enclosing small irregularly shaped fields, villages with tall church spires,

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broadleaved woodlands or, in the uplands, rolling moorlands, hill fields with sheep enclosed by stone walls, barns and steadings, waterfalls along fast flowing rivers.

6.18 The North Norfolk Coast landscape character assessment of 1995, however,

researched a much wider base in its search for special qualities (Countryside Commission, 1995). It looked at the landscape as part of the national and regional resource, in a conventional approach to landscape character assessment, but also looked at its scenic qualities; how the landscape is perceived and valued (by the general public and by writers and others who may have been inspired by it); and other special values, reflected in historical and cultural associations, and special nature and historic conservation interests (designations).

Other evaluation methods in Britain

6.19 The Quality of Life Capital approach has been widely published and discussed so explanation here is limited to the key elements relevant to the identification of special qualities. It seeks to identify ‘what matters’, what is important, to whom; and what benefits natural and man-made features may bring; how important they are; how much of them there is; whether they are substitutable and what policy or management aims should be attributed to them. It is a useful approach in that it requires fundamental re-thinking about values attached to features that may, or may not, have been valued in the past. It is a matrix based approach and so has the benefits of being systematic. It is also regarded as potentially subjective and to some potential stakeholders, rather esoteric and difficult to apply, although it has made an important contribution to some evaluation processes (e.g. Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park Plan, as described above) and advanced the rigour and comprehensiveness of environmental assessment and monitoring.

6.20 In the late 1990s the Countryside Council for Wales, in association with the Wales

Landscape Partnership Group developed a landscape information resource under the title LANDMAP (‘Landscape Assessment and Decision Making Process’). It was launched as a unique tool within a European context which would present a pool of information on the multiple components which come together as the Welsh landscape and create its character and sense of place. It uses a highly systematic method of assessment so that all aspects of landscape are considered equally, and provides a ‘product’ which can be utilised for a broad range of landscape planning and management activities.

6.21 Its core approach is one of making desk-top and field assessments of five core

elements of landscape: Geological Landscape; Landscape Habitats; Visual and Sensory qualities; Historic Landscape; and Cultural Landscape. Surveys are carried out at County or National Park scales. The methodology is rigorously defined into distinct stages and assessment criteria, with a further quality assurance stage adding rigour to the consistency between different area assessments. In a number of ways the system reflects Landscape Character Assessment as established within England and Scotland, but also embraces historical and cultural landscape issues in a more systematic way. At the main assessment stage, there is no reference to identifying and evaluating those character elements which may contribute to special qualities.

6.22 Within the ‘Visual and Sensory Qualities’ element of LANDMAP the assessor is

required to categorise the Aspect Areas (main spatial units) as being of outstanding, high, moderate, low or unknown quality under headings of Scenic Quality, Integrity, Character and Rarity. The Scenic Quality element is defined as ‘The area will have accessibly-viewed scenes which are of a picturesque quality, demonstrating aesthetically-pleasing elements in composition’. As a guide the methodological

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guidance for LANDMAP (CCW 2003) suggests “outstanding” means of international or national Importance, and “high” as of regional or county importance. However there appears to be an absence of clear guidance to the assessor as to how scenic quality might be judged and categorised within this framework.

6.23 Hence special qualities - as a discreet concept or characteristic of the landscape are

not clearly acknowledged as core elements or components within the assessment technique. The assessment of visual and sensory qualities in the methodology invites assessment of less tangible or quantifiable elements of landscape, and requires assessors to have regard to factors such as ‘attractiveness’, ‘tranquillity’, ‘threat’, ‘wildness’ and ‘spiritual’ qualities of the aspect area. The guidance acknowledges the subjective nature of taking such judgements.

6.24 LANDMAP therefore offers a very detailed and widely accessible inventory of

landscape topographical and geomorphological characteristics, and human or cultural influences thereon, across Wales. However it does not seek to afford value to discreet landscape components. Whilst offering a broad and consistent assessment of landscape characteristics it does not embrace stakeholder opinion.

6.25 Landscape Evaluation in England, especially to justify non-statutory local

designations, following a somewhat discouraging approach in Government policy, can help to inform the process of identifying special qualities, even though it is heavily orientated to comparative designation analysis rather than analysis of what is special within a designated area. The Research Bibliography provides a full list of documents examined in the research. An example of a fairly complex, contemporary landscape evaluation is found in the work undertaken on behalf of Colchester Borough Council in the Review of Countryside Conservation Areas in Colchester Borough (2005). In re-assessing the basis for local landscape designations, in accordance with Planning Policy Statement 7 Sustainable Development in Rural Areas,(ODPM 2005) it adopted the following criteria: Landscape Quality, Scenic Quality, Rarity, Representativeness, Conservation Interests, Wildness / Tranquillity, and Associations; ranking each landscape unit as a high value landscape, a moderate or low value landscape. Whilst achieving its objective of justifying the local designations, this work exhibits some confusion in the selection and application of criteria, possibly because it attempts to combine seemingly incompatible elements (rarity and representativeness). There is the inherent danger of degrading the weight attached to good landscape design and planning in areas ranked as low value landscapes.

6.26 Other examples of similar work to review local designations, for example, Doncaster

Metropolitan Borough Council (1994), took a simpler and possibly more robust approach. It was based on a method that identified special landscape areas that were the most appropriate examples of each landscape character type, classified in a new landscape character assessment, on the grounds of integrity, spatial extent and representativeness. This endorsed the pre-existing designated areas, with some relatively minor boundary changes, and added a new area, based on the Thorne and Hatfield Moors, a low-lying area of peatlands of high natural heritage value not previously recognised in landscape assessments when compared with the Pennine fringes and limestone hills elsewhere in the Borough.

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International perspectives

Global conventions 6.27 Examples of approaches to identifying special-ness in landscapes at the global level

are found in the criteria for UNESCO World Heritage Site inscription. There is an emphasis on human creations in and human influence on landscape, for example in criteria:

(i) to represent a masterpiece of human creative genius; (ii) to exhibit an important interchange of human values ….. (iii) to bear a unique, or at least exceptional, testimony to a cultural tradition or

to a civilisation that is living or has disappeared; (iv) to be an outstanding example of a type of building, architectural or

technological ensemble or landscape which illustrates (a) significant stage(s) in human history; and

(v) to be an outstanding example of a traditional human settlement, land-use or sea-use which is representative of a culture or human interaction with the environment ….

Other criteria focus on geological and other natural phenomena and biological diversity or ecosystems, for example, criteria:

(vi) to contain superlative natural phenomena or areas of exceptional natural

beauty and aesthetic importance; (vii) to be outstanding examples representing major stages of earth’s history,

including the record of life, significant ongoing geological processes in the development of landforms, or significant geomorphic or physiographic features;

(viii) to be outstanding examples representing significant ongoing ecological or biological processes in the evolution of terrestrial, fresh water, coastal and marine ecosystems and communities of plants and animals; and

(ix) to contain the most important and significant natural habitats for in situ conservation of biological diversity …..

6.28 It will be noted, however, that criterion (vi) also includes “areas of exceptional natural

beauty and aesthetic importance” thus opening the door to inscription of landscapes for their scenic value. The revised Operational Guidelines (UNESCO, 2005), indicate that the protection, management, authenticity and integrity of candidates are also important considerations. This introduces, in terms of landscape and visual amenity, not only the factor of completeness / intactness / unspoilt qualities (integrity); but also that of distinctiveness (referred to as authenticity in the criteria). European Approaches

6.29 In Europe, the typical approach is found in the Council of Europe’s criteria for the European Diploma of Protected Areas (Council of Europe website). This is an initiative aimed at promoting the recognition of areas of outstanding natural heritage, in an international (European) context, with a view to promoting their management for conservation. It exhibits a strong emphasis on conservation of wildlife and natural features through protection, but also encourages the recognition of landscapes. Three candidacies are offered:

a) areas of particular importance for the conservation of biological diversity in

Europe;

b) areas aimed at conserving remarkable natural phenomena or geological or physiographic formations characteristic of the earth’s history; or

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c) areas of particular importance for the conservation of landscape diversity in

Europe.

The latter may comprise:

a) sites or landscapes of outstanding aesthetic or cultural value or of a spectacular nature;

b) complexes conserved as evidence of the history of the countryside or woodland in Europe; or

c) country or wooded areas that are cultivated using extensive methods and containing typical examples of European landscapes.

6.30 Protected landscapes in many European countries are based heavily on wildlife /

biodiversity protection. For example, “The primary purpose of national parks is to safeguard the diversity of Finnish nature. When establishing national parks attention has also been paid to the protection of natural sights and Finnish history.” (Natural Heritage Services of Metsähallitus, 2006). However, there are exceptions, for example, Lithuania prioritises a more holistic view of landscape, epitomised by its description of the Dzukija National Park, of 55,000 ha designated in 1991. It refers first to the woodlands, rivers and views, to the ancient towns and other historical attractions, legends and folk tales, forest villages with their vernacular architecture, local crafts and traditions of gathering wild mushrooms and fruit on a commercial scale, with mention of the rare eagles and mammals such as deer, elk, wild boar and wolves at the end of the citation (Lithuanian Government, 2006). An American example

6.31 The United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service (2006), has extensive responsibility for designating and protecting a wider variety of heritage resources than just the National Parks. It has set criteria for the screening and selection of candidate park units (which may be relatively small areas or properties) to screen them for national significance. Criteria include a requirement to meet all four of the following:

a) an outstanding example of a particular type of resource; b) exceptional value of quality illustrating or interpreting the natural or cultural

themes of our Nation’s heritage; c) superlative opportunities for recreation for public use and enjoyment or for

scientific study; d) a high degree of integrity as a true accurate and relatively unspoiled example

of the resource. 6.32 Thus, again the influence of integrity is apparent, as well as high quality. Natural

area examples may include (the list is selective):

a) an outstanding site that illustrates the characteristics of landform or biotic area that is still widespread;

b) a rare remnant natural landscape or biotic area of a type that was once widespread;

c) a landform or biotic area that has always been extremely uncommon in the region or nation;

d) a site that possesses exceptional diversity of ecological components or geological features;

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e) an area that has outstanding scenic qualities such as dramatic topographic features, unusual contrasts in landforms or vegetation, spectacular vistas or other special landscape features

Discussions with specialists

6.33 The research for this methodology included telephone interviews with a number of

practicing landscape, planning and conservation professionals working in the field of protected landscapes and management plan preparation. The discussions ranged from around 25 minutes to over an hour in duration. The discussions began with establishing whether Landscape Character Assessment was a good basis for the understanding of special and scenic qualities. The range of elements beyond landform and land use that could contribute to special qualities was then discussed. In particular the interviews addressed the combinations of factors which come together to make a place special and consideration as to whether individual elements could be of such note, in their own right, as to make a place special. Interviewees were also asked for their views about the need for assessing special qualities to be done by a landscape professional; how important were terminology and rigour in nomenclature; whether it was an intuitive process; and the importance of the opinion of local residents and visitors.

6.34 Whilst the discussions were wide ranging and detailed, and many individual points

helped to inform the overall conclusions of this report, there was considerable common ground in views held by various people. These discussions widely endorsed the following points.

a) A holistic approach to the definition of landscape and scenery should be

adopted, which should include historical, cultural and biological associations and influences.

b) Use of landscape character assessment is a good starting point to the

process of defining special qualities, indeed there is probably no other widely available tool to inform the process at an appropriate level.

c) Landscape and other environmental professionals should work as a team and

their work should form the basis of wider public consultation which is seen as essential.

d) Subjective professional judgement is necessary and so long as it is

systematic it provides a sound basis for defining special qualities. However, perception of what is special does change over time and will vary between communities; this is why wide and contemporary consultation is important.

e) Special qualities do not necessarily have to be rare qualities, but simply what

makes an area important and valued. It is often the combination of characteristics that is special.

f) There is a need for methodologies to be consistent and rigorous and for the

careful use of some terms. However, method statements should not appear to be esoteric, with over-precise language appearing to draw distinctions between words that most people would regard as synonymous. Methods need to be understandable and user-friendly.

g) What is special, described by some as the ‘wow factor’, is likely to be quite

apparent, if not obvious (that is why it is special) and the ability to recognise it

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is not confined to landscape, or indeed any other, professionals. People can actually see what is special, though it may take a professional to articulate it.

6.35 Two further points arose from discussions that did not emerge from other research.

Firstly, ‘scenic’ is related to ‘scenery’, and scenery has a theatrical connotation that is relevant to landscapes; it is the setting for human activity. Secondly, one of the special qualities of many designated landscapes is that they are perceived by people to be more natural and unspoilt, even though apparently wild landscapes are not, in that sense, ‘natural’.

Conclusions from other work defining special qualities

6.36 Despite the enormous range of qualities identified as special, and the considerable

variation in levels of detail and emphasis, a number of features and expressions recur, at all levels – global to local: such as ‘contrast’, ‘diversity’, ‘harmony’, ‘authenticity’, ‘distinctiveness’ and ‘representativeness’. Certain descriptive qualities referred to are highly subjective and reliant on personal responses, such as ‘spectacular’, ‘dramatic’ or ‘wild’; no one seeks to define these descriptions, which are assumed to be recognisable, in the context where they occur. There is a distinction often drawn, explicitly or implicitly, between physical qualities (features and attributes) such as woodland, lakes, moorland or coast, which are frequent or widespread; and people’s responses to their particular characteristics or the way they combine to provide a scene that is ‘exhilarating’ or ‘inspiring’.

6.37 This leads to the contemplation that there may be two main types of special qualities

– physical ones and perceived ones. For physical qualities, special-ness may relate to rare, very fine, authentic or unspoilt examples or combinations of them, or to extremes of scale, shape or intensity, which qualities lead to them being described as ‘special’. In respect of perceived qualities, it may be these physical qualities in themselves, or in combination with other qualities related to the experience of a place, that evoke extremes of perception, again leading to them being described as ‘special’. There are slopes and cliffs in many places, they are special when they evoke descriptions such as ‘spectacular slopes’ and ‘dramatic cliffs’. This implies that special places are not necessarily places where we might find the rare or unusual, but rather that they can sometimes be places where the commonplace exhibit unusual extremes or come together in ways that invoke a response in people that is regarded as special – inspirational, romantic, wild, dramatic, spectacular, beautiful, tranquil or exhilarating. Those responsible for designating, or otherwise acknowledging, the special-ness of places simply assume that these qualities will be recognisable when they occur; they do not go into detailed or esoteric attempts to define the qualities or tell people how to recognise them, or how to distinguish them from the ordinary.

6.38 Special qualities can be a combination of matters of fact (physical features that can

be seen, counted and measured), and matters of degree, (the physical features are extreme in some way that appeals to people’s senses); or their composition is so unusual or extreme in a way that is so moving it invokes a description such as ‘beautiful’ or ‘inspiring’.

6.39 To this extent, experience overseas reinforces that in Britain, and reinforces the

subjective basis of NSA designation. It helps to direct attempts to define special qualities away from over-precise language; carefully tuned definitions; and away from a method that purports to be more sophisticated than the process of defining special qualities actually is. Defining special qualities in NSAs will be an essentially intuitive, largely subjective process, albeit one that is capable of being structured and

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systematic. Subjectivity and intuition are positive, not negative, aspects of the work, they are essential and widely accepted. However, there is a need to guard against the influence of changing perceptions leaving identified special qualities out-of-date. It may be necessary to review special qualities over quite long periods of time, say 20 years or so, to validate their continued applicability in a changing world.

6.40 Special qualities can also be grouped into categories of similar characteristics, for

example related to visual experience, wildlife or experience of the landscape, as explained more fully in section 7 below. Thus the analysis of the results of others seeking to define special qualities enables us to begin to understand their scope and to structure their identification and description in a systematic way.

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7. DEVELOPING A METHOD TO IDENTIFY SPECIAL QUALITIES

Setting the parameters

7.1 The method to identify special qualities should meet the following criteria.

(a) Realistic – achievable and practical in terms of skills, staff resources, finance and timescales.

(b) Repeatable – from one NSA to another, now and in the future with different

compositions of personnel.

(c) Resonant – understandable and meaningful to those who undertake it and those who use its outputs.

(d) Relevant to people – involving as wide a community of people as possible.

(e) Respected – capable of being adopted and perceived as a method

generating consensus through informed professional judgement and wide public opinion that is as free from dispute as possible.

(f) Robust – capable of withstanding scrutiny, learning lessons from past work

but nevertheless flexible and capable of adaptation over time; self evidently it should be applicable to all NSAs.

(g) Related to the scenery and landscape of NSAs.

7.2 The identification of special qualities needs to be stitched into the wider process of

producing, implementing and monitoring a management plan or strategy. It may be useful in the consideration of any further candidates for NSA status and in assessing the need for any boundary changes for existing NSAs. However, the task of this project is to generate a method of identifying special qualities of pre-determined areas, it should not be driven or overly influenced by relationships with designation criteria. Whilst this project is not a justification for each NSA it is seeking to explain why these areas have been identified.

Relationship with the designation criteria

7.3 It is a truism that everywhere is unique. The reasons for designation of any protected

landscape reflect the requirements or criteria of the statutory or other procedures that govern the designation process; they do not necessarily tell us all that is special about the area. In other words, once a designated area has been delineated, its special qualities may, and almost invariably do, extend beyond those qualities that it was necessary to demonstrate in order to achieve the designation. For example, English AONBs are designated on the basis of their ‘natural beauty and amenity’ but when those responsible for their management take a holistic approach to identifying their special qualities (that need to be understood in order to effectively manage the special-ness of the designated area) they identify a much wider range of qualities that are considered to be special. They emphasise how it is the combination of all of these, coming together in the way that only occurs in that AONB (or National Park) that makes the area special.

7.4 Given that the basis of designation of a NSA was scenic value, as opposed to, for

example, wildlife value or historic value, it is not necessary to know how the area met

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a long list of criteria in order to define its scenic qualities. The two processes: applying designation criteria and identifying special qualities are different. This is helpful, given the sparse information we have about the reasons why one area was selected as a NSA whilst another may not have been. We are not revisiting the designation process, nor justifying the designation against some new criterion. We are taking the designation as read and searching for the special qualities that require protection, conservation, nurturing and good stewardship so that the area retains its national landscape importance.

7.5 Nevertheless, the descriptions in the citations in Scotland’s Scenic Heritage are

helpful pointers to the special characteristics recognised by those who selected and delineated them. Furthermore, because the potential range of special qualities is so wide, as shown in the examples in section 6 above and Table 1 below, it is necessary to bear in mind the reason for designation when considering the special qualities of a NSA. This helps to constrain the very wide choice of qualities. Otherwise it may result in selection of special qualities that are so far removed from the purpose of designation as to be irrelevant to the purpose of defining the qualities. On the other hand, the special qualities addressed in this report and method statement extend beyond the purely scenic, in its narrowest sense of what can be seen. Traditionally it has been the ‘scenic’ qualities of landscapes that have been valued and designated, for their amenity value or, as the statutes have defined it ‘natural beauty and amenity’. This approach still underpins NSAs and contributes importantly to National Park designation, but now there is a more explicit recognition of the contribution of cultural and natural heritage attributes to landscape and scenery and the qualities they engender. This approach intends to embrace them, without departing so far from the purpose of NSA designation that other elements bear no relation to the landscape or scenery.

The role of Landscape Character Assessment

7.6 Landscape Character Assessment is a valuable contribution to the identification

process and the basis of landscape description underpinning many aspects of the special qualities. Indeed, it is probably an indispensable tool in the recommended method. It will be an excellent starting point for identifying the characteristics of an area. The spatial expression of landscape character types in landscape character units is also an appropriate starting point for distinguishing the differences between the various parts of a NSA, and how the special qualities may vary spatially. This was the case in the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park work, but less so in the Wester Ross work, described in sections 6 and 5 above respectively. However, the work in England shows that Landscape Character Assessment, alone, will not identify all that is regarded as special. Indeed, the process deliberately stops short of attempting to express people’s responses and reactions to landscape, in order to preserve a higher level of objectivity. It therefore cannot embrace human emotional response, such as exhilaration and inspiration; it will not represent people’s perceptions of recreational challenge and reward. It may not fully embrace the influence of people and community on the special-ness of an area, although some aspects of the assessments will contribute to understanding these qualities. The discussions in Sections 6 above and 8 below indicate that special qualities extend beyond the range of factors incorporated into Landscape Character Assessment.

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Why a wide community must participate 7.7 In order to make the identification of special qualities relevant to people, resonant,

respected and robust (see 7.1 above), it is essential that a wide community of people contribute.

7.8 In retrospect one of the impediments to the wider and more immediate acceptance of

the existing suite of NSAs in the past may have been that they were seen by some as a rather intuitive, even idiosyncratic, product of a single body that had not consulted in the earlier stages of the evolution of the designation. This is particularly so in light of the acknowledged subjective nature of the selection process, which was self-justifying. The areas chosen were those considered to be the finest landscape, but by a relatively narrow, albeit well informed group. An obvious measure of special-ness, as recognised by a wider public, would be the numbers of visitors that an area attracted. The type of visitor may also be a consideration bearing in mind the differing demands of the mountaineer, compared to those of the car-based tourist. But the description of the selection of the NSAs is silent as to whether such matters were considered. After ten years, the NSAs were seen by many professionals as just another landscape designation of no special priority (Cobham Resource Consultants 1988).

7.9 The problem was not that the process of selection was subjective, because

subjective judgements are an essential, positive and widely accepted part of designation processes and of assessing what is special about designated areas. Rather, many of the problems associated with the NSA selection process relate to the exclusion of stakeholder and wider public opinion. Such a method is probably inconceivable today.

7.10 The Council for Europe Explanatory Report on the European Landscape Convention,

at paragraphs 54 – 57 emphasises the importance of the involvement of stakeholders in the assessment of the quality and qualities of landscapes. It explains that sub-paragraph C 1 b of the Convention “requires Parties to assess the qualities of the landscapes identified, taking into account the particular value of different kinds assigned to them by the general public and interested parties such as landowners and land users or land managers. The point of this evaluation is to provide a basis for judging what landscape features of an area are so valuable that they should be protected; what features need management in order to maintain the quality of the landscape; and what features or areas should be considered for enhancement. The process must take account of the concerned people’s opinion and the interests linked to sectoral policies, and here views may well be highly subjective and differ considerably. It may be worth performing the evaluation according to objective criteria first, then comparing the findings with the various assessments of the landscape by people concerned and other interest groups. If necessary the comparison could be carried out by public inquiry, with the interested parties having the right to express their opinion. Public participation in this type of procedure could be fostered by providing the public with information, consulting all representative bodies, using the media and conducting awareness-raising campaigns at all levels.”

7.11 The Brief anticipated this point by indicating (paragraph 5): “The work proposed here

is solely of a professional / expert nature, which does not involve public consultation nor seek to capture the views of wider stakeholders. SNH recognises the importance of these wider views, which can support and inform the assessments results, but it is intended that these will be captured at some future date when management strategies are prepared through an inclusive process for individual NSAs.”

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The scope of special qualities previously defined in other assessments 7.12 Having examined over forty examples of relatively detailed, published definitions of

‘special qualities’ (in addition to reading the 40 NSA citations) for areas designated for their landscape and / or scenic amenity value, in England, Scotland and Wales, and bearing in mind the international perspectives described in section 6 above, and the differing approaches adopted by analysts elsewhere, the scope of special qualities may be grouped into eight general topics. These are listed in Table 1 below, with examples taken from actual cases.

Table 1 – Examples of Special Qualities Previously Defined: Grouped by General Topic

General Topic

Examples of qualities expressed

Authenticity and integrity

Distinctive, intact, integrity, unspoilt, unharmed, distinct – not transitional, natural and naturalness, clean earth, air and water, pristine, clean, fresh, pollution-free

Emotional response

Influence of weather and light, influence of the sea, tranquil, secret, hidden, undiscovered, softness or hardness, smoothness or roughness, gentleness or ruggedness, dramatic, spectacular, comforting, reassuring, safe, intimate, rural idyll, exhilarating, exciting, inspiring, surprise, open, windswept, exposed, unified, harmonious, quiet, silent, calm, peaceful, peace and quiet, solitude, spiritual refreshment, wildness, freedom

Visual experience

Diverse, complex, varied, constantly changing scene, intricate, contrasting, juxtapositions, colourful, green, intensity and clarity of light, dominance of the sky, varied views, panoramic views from mountains, cliffs, hills, edges, escarpments; iconic viewpoints, landmarks and ‘beauty spots’; composition, proportion, mass, shape, movement

People and community

Vibrancy, sense of community, value attached to area by surrounding urban communities, friendly people, warm-hearted, caring people, delightful people, courteous people

History and culture

Distinctive skills, dialects, songs and customs; legends, folklore; religious associations, strong religious past and present, ruined abbeys and ancient churches; example of medieval land management; past industries including lead mining, wireworks, tin plate works, craft and cottage industries; strong associations with visual arts, literature, science or exploration; local produce including cheese, meat, fruits, beers, mushrooms; special or distinctive crops including lavender, hops and fruit orchards; distinctive or rare breeds of domestic horses, cattle, sheep or goats; distinctive boats, ships or barges; historic infrastructure including leats, bridges, harbours, water meadows, industrial archaeology including mills, factories and military buildings; archaeological monuments, castles, large houses and designed landscapes

Settlement Uninhabited, sparsely populated, remote, pretty villages, churches, vernacular buildings, distinctive building materials, building types and styles, settlement pattern especially related to natural features

Wildlife Large scale habitats such as heaths and moors, woods full of wildlife, hay meadows, mudflats, estuaries, cliffs, sea birds, wildfowl, migratory birds, mammals, butterflies, bird song and calls

Landform, land use, land cover

Topography, landform features including hills, drumlins, dunes, beaches, cliffs, scarps, gorges, ravines, clefts, valleys, lochs, lakes, rivers, streams, burns, waterfalls, ponds, fields and field patterns, woods, moors, alpine and montane areas; hedges, stone dykes, walls, shelterbelts, avenues; rich mixture of landscape features, myriad of detail, intricate mix, mosaic, patchwork

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7.13 However, in most cases, the authors of the lists of these special qualities recognise that it is the way that they interact, or the way that they combine, that makes a particular area special. The qualities are special because of the way in which they contribute to unusual, impressive or distinctive combinations, not because they are themselves unique, or in some cases, even particularly rare.

7.14 There is also a strong inter-relationship between the various topics, indeed, some

qualities could fit easily into two or more topics and there are other ways of dividing or merging the topics, for example splitting history and culture or joining culture and community. There is flexibility in approach here, but the important point is to recognise the full and wide scope of special qualities, far beyond the immediate visual experience; and the fact that it is the combinations of them that makes different areas distinctive and special.

7.15 However, NSAs are designated for their outstanding scenery so special qualities that

may be identified for a National Park, for example, are not necessarily relevant to a NSA. A NSA may have a strong sense of community but that is not a special quality relevant to its scenic value, even if it was one that everyone agreed was otherwise important. Consequently, Table 1 is reworked in Table 2 to exclude people and community, to reduce the range of cultural and historical qualities to those with a relevance to scenery.

Table 2 – Examples of Special Qualities that may inform the method statement

General Topic Examples of qualities

Landform, land use, land cover

Topography, landform features including hills, drumlins, dunes, beaches, cliffs, scarps, gorges, ravines, clefts, valleys, lochs, lakes, voes, geos, fjords, rivers, streams, burns, waterfalls, ponds, fields, field patterns, woods, moors, alpine and montane areas, hedges, stone dykes, walls, shelterbelts, avenues, myriad of detail, intricate mix, mosaic, patchwork

Settlement and Features

Uninhabited, sparsely populated, castles, towers, kirks, vernacular buildings, distinctive building materials, building types and styles, settlement pattern especially related to natural features, point and linear features

Visual experience

Diverse, complex, varied, constantly changing scene, intricate, contrasting, juxtapositions, colourful, green, intensity and clarity of light, dominance of the sky, varied views, panoramic views from mountains, cliffs, hills, edges, escarpments; iconic viewpoints, landmarks and ‘beauty spots’; composition, proportion, mass, shape, movement,

Emotional response

Influence of weather and light, influence of the sea, tranquil, secret, hidden, undiscovered, dramatic, spectacular, comforting, reassuring, safe, intimate, idyllic, exhilarating, exciting, inspiring, open, windswept, exposed, unified, harmonious; quiet, silent, calm, peaceful, solitude, refreshment, wildness, freedom

Authenticity and integrity

Distinctive, sense of place, intact, integrity, unspoilt, unharmed, distinct – not transitional, natural and naturalness, pristine, clean, fresh, pollution-free

Wildlife Wildlife that makes a marked contribution to the scenery, e.g. sea bird colonies, machair grassland flowers

History and culture

Associations with visual arts or literature or historic events or periods that have a strong influence on scenery today, including but not limited to designed landscapes

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7.16 The first six rows of Table 2 are clearly relevant to scenic value and should have an undisputed place in the identification of special qualities, although wildlife would need to be particularly important to the scene, not merely present as it is almost everywhere. The role of history and culture, however, is less easily related to scenic value, even though it has an established place in landscape character assessment. Artistic, cultural, historic and scientific associations can be important attributes of scenery and landscape and they are frequently referred to in definitions of special qualities elsewhere. Nevertheless, to be relevant to NSAs, there needs to be a link to the scenic value. Thus, an association with a writer per se is not in itself sufficient to make it a special quality for a NSA. However, if the writer wrote about the landscape and scenery, and / or set the story in the scenery of the NSA, which was described in the written work, and people therefore associate the story with the landscape, because of the way the author used the landscape, that association would be relevant to a NSA.

7.17 Similarly, historical association is not in itself sufficient to merit consideration as a

special quality in a NSA, but if the scenery of the NSA exhibits features associated with a historic event, or a historic period, an association could be relevant to special qualities. The most obvious example is architectural styles or designed landscapes, they represent examples of historic periods and often portray strong visual evidence of cultural and historic design, taste and fashion, they contribute to the scenic value of an area and influence its landscape and scenery. Landscapes exhibiting the evidence of historic agricultural practices or industrial enterprises, including abandoned crofting, and some improvement (enclosure) landscapes would similarly be important and could contribute to special qualities, with physical and visual manifestations in the present scenery.

7.18 Mere association with a battle, visits by monarchs, or a birthplace would not in

themselves qualify as special qualities for a NSA, whereas they may (and do) for a National Park with its cultural heritage dimension. However, where the battle story is embedded in the consciousness of those experiencing the landscape (e.g. Glen Coe), or where royal association has influenced the landscape itself, it could be regarded as a special quality. This approach is endorsed to some extent by Scotland’s Scenic Heritage. Whilst making no mention of the battle of Glen Coe (page 51), it refers specifically to the associations of Ruskin and Scott to Lake Katrine in the Trossachs (page 87) and the influence of Queen Victoria and subsequent monarchs on the scenery of Royal Deeside in Deeside and Lochnagar (page 61). The interaction between the scenery and the associations with a place, is a two way process; cultural and historical associations influence our perceptions of a place, and our experience of a place is influenced by our knowledge of such associations. We can view these associations and interpret historical events differently over time.

7.19 At the end of the day, this initial exercise of generating special qualities will include

the historical and cultural qualities that the professional teams will consider to be relevant and special to each NSA. Public consultation will add others that are considered by community and other stakeholders to be important, and may delete some that were initially selected. This process of revision and refinement will apply to historic and cultural qualities in the same way as all other qualities identified.

The recommended approach

7.20 The recommended approach to identifying special qualities, as part of the overall

management strategy process, is therefore to harness a blend of :

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i) professional judgement, including that of qualified landscape architects but also engaging a range of disciplines with an interest in the amenity value of landscape (including but not limited to land use / development and spatial planners, ecologists, countryside recreation advisers and land managers), and

ii) public opinion.

7.21 The approach involves a mix of desk research, fieldwork and consultation. It is

informed by:

a) landscape character assessment to provide a systematic description and spatial analysis;

b) references to recorded accolades, where they exist;

c) relevant artistic, cultural and historical associations and references where

potentially relevant to the landscape;

d) professional judgement; and

e) public participation.

This approach was strongly endorsed when we discussed the early findings of the project with other specialists (see paragraphs 6.33 – 6.35 above).

7.22 The fundamental question at all times in the identification and analytical processes is

“What are the characteristics that individually or when combined together make the area special in terms of its landscape or scenery?” They do not necessarily have to be special – distinctive, important, unique or valued in themselves, it is their contribution to the special-ness of the whole area that is important.

Table 3 – How the Special Qualities could be Identified

General Topic Methods and sources

Landform, land use, land cover

Desk research, Landscape Character Assessment, Professional Fieldwork

Settlement Map research, Landscape Character Assessment, Professional Fieldwork

Authenticity and integrity

Desk Research, Professional Fieldwork

Emotional response Professional Fieldwork

Visual experience Landscape Character Assessment, Professional Fieldwork

Wildlife Desk research, Nature Conservation Records, Professional Fieldwork

History and culture Desk Research, Landscape Character Assessment, Historic Land Use Assessment, Professional Fieldwork

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7.23 Table 3 explains how the special qualities summarised in Table 2 could be first identified, before the public consultation stages. All the special qualities categorised in Table 3 will, of course, be subject to validation, amendment, rejection or addition by wider stakeholder involvement in later consultation stages.

7.24 A structured approach to the initial identification of the special qualities of NSAs is set

out in the following guidance. It is intended to produce a list and description of special qualities for an NSA as a whole or, where more appropriate, for spatial units within each NSA. These special qualities will be the result of professional opinion, later endorsed or modified by public opinion. They are considered to include the qualities that underpin designation as a NSA.

7.25 The following section (Part B) comprises the guidance as to the methodology for

identifying the special qualities; it may be published or read as a free standing document so there is some limited repetition of material found elsewhere in this report.

Summary of the evolution of the method

7.26 Drawing on the research undertaken in the first part of the study, an initial suggested

methodology was prepared as a basis for discussion with the steering group. This was based on three principal stages: desk study, fieldwork and analysis. The three stages remained applicable throughout and are shown on Figure 2 in Section 8 below. The following is a commentary on the changes and evolution of the method. Steps in the guidance that did not change are not discussed here.

Desk Study

7.27 Desk study anticipated the use of landscape character assessment, historic land use assessment, biodiversity mapping (habitats and species), library and web research of historic and cultural associations, OS map study and reading of Scotland’s Scenic Heritage.

7.28 In practice desk study was reduced in terms of historic land use assessment because

it was difficult to interpret without expert guidance and, at the scale of NSAs, it was too detailed. The effort of ‘grossing up’ the areas into more generic classifications, even where this may be possible and appropriate, was beyond the resources of this study. It would probably be beyond the resources of SNH in the other NSAs. Further, a layer of additional expert interpretation and / or evaluation of the detailed material would also be required to ‘translate’ the historic land uses into historical and cultural qualities.

7.29 Similarly, nature conservation records such as habitat mapping, citations of

designated sites and species records added little to the value of desk study. In some cases, for example, the Moine Mhor NNR/SSSI/SAC citations in Knapdale NSA, did add to the understanding of the area, perhaps because of its unusual ecology and physiographic structure. However, it is anticipated that extensive analysis of nature conservation information adds little to the process overall. It is more likely to be better to research biological and geological records in response to particular queries or sites arising from (and therefore after) fieldwork rather than before. It is likely that, in any event, SNH staff will have a reasonable background knowledge of natural heritage designations and information that will inform the approach to identifying special qualities.

7.30 This point is illustrated by the frequent references to wildlife in the identified special

qualities in Part C below. Where colourful or distinctive flora, or woodland birdsong

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or riverside or coastal wildlife is noted by the surveyors it was not necessary to know all the relevant species of flora or fauna to recognise that collectively they added to the species qualities.

7.31 Thus, the recommended desk study is limited to: Scotland’s Scenic Heritage, OS

Landranger and Explorer Maps (1:50,000 and 1:25,000), web research for cultural and historical associations and, most important of all, Landscape Character Assessment (LCA).

Landscape Character Assessment

7.32 Two points about LCA are worth recording here. Firstly, the initial methodology required the NSA team to read the LCA prior to fieldwork and to record on field sheets material that was actually available in the LCA descriptions. This was to encourage the team to observe and record all landscape features, as a way of ensuring the observation was diligent and detailed. After the first two trials this approach was changed. It was found to be unnecessary to record all landscape features in this way, the team was observing the landscape in sufficient detail anyway. The additional recording was unnecessary duplication. Rather, the desk study work was increased to produce a summary sheet for each landscape character type occurring in each NSA as described in the final guidance. This was a more effective preparation and reduced fieldwork time and effort at each viewpoint.

7.33 Secondly, amongst the five pilot NSAs the LCAs were variable in their level of detail,

approach and accuracy. The Loch Lomond and the Trossachs LCA was inconsistent with the others in terms of both approach and outputs, for example, tending to identify characteristic features rather than landscape types and identify differences between areas of the Trossachs, rather than classifying and mapping landscape character types. We believe SNH is aware of the problems associated with this particular LCA.

7.34 Variations of detail in the LCAs related, unsurprisingly, to scale of areas. There was

a lack of detail and some problems associated with NSA landscape character units differing from the generic landscape character type, because the type was very extensive and the NSA unit only one, or a small part, of the type. This was more apparent in Assynt - Coigach and Ben Nevis Glen Coe, as may be expected. The problem was easily remedied by fieldwork recording more accurately characteristics of the type in the NSA. Accuracy problems also related to the incorrect allocation of a landscape character type to a landscape character unit. This was considered to be the result of human error on allocating the ‘label’ rather than incompetent classification and was again remedied by fieldwork description.

Spatial Sub-Division of the NSA

7.35 The early stages of method development envisaged that it would be necessary to sub-divide the NSAs into manageable units. The early methodologies therefore experimented with the mapping of spatial units using two principal techniques. The first was based on landscape character types, mapping the units from the LCAs. The second was based on '’viewsheds”, that is the spatial unit encompassed generally in views within the NSA, for example, the enclosure or containment of views in a glen by the ridges of hills separating one glen from the next, similar to the concept of ‘watersheds’.

7.36 In the first pilot NSA quite a long time was devoted to the spatial division of the NSA,

using both techniques to see which was most successful (for example see Part C The Trossachs NSA).

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7.37 Using LCA as a basis for sub-dividing the NSA involved the mapping of the LCA units for each landscape character type and considering whether any may be amalgamated. This process is described in section 8, Part B below, so it is not repeated here. From a practical point of view, it was anticipated that between one and ten spatial units would be likely to work well in most NSAs.

7.38 If the NSA has a strongly rhythmical form of glens (or loch basins) separated by

ridges or linear hill masses a ‘viewshed’ approach was thought to be more appropriate. The object would be to define the areas, or spaces, which are contained by landform and seen and experienced as a single visual entity. This may assist in identifying some, if not all of the special qualities that result from the interaction, juxtaposition or combination of areas that may be defined in a LCA as different landscape character types. For example, in the case of a sea loch, the loch and its shores may be one landscape character type, the slopes of the glen may be a second type and the high ridges or hill mass may be a third landscape character type. Nevertheless, the glen with its loch, enclosed by the hills and the skyline of the ridges may be one of the special qualities of the NSA, and it is the combination of the water and landform that is special. Defining a viewshed is done by drawing along the ridges, hill peaks or other watersheds to create a series of visually contained glens, valleys, plains, coastal edges or other areas that are perceived as a single visual entity, even if the whole cannot be seen from any particular point, owing to obstructions to views caused by local landform or woodlands.

7.39 In practice, by the time the five pilots were completed it was concluded that complete

spatial sub-division of each NSA is not always necessary. Although it is recognised that it is relatively small in area, the fifth pilot, Upper Tweeddale, is a diverse area. However, it was surveyed without any sub-division. It was sufficient to note the spatial distribution of the landscape character types. The LCA and the familiarisation survey effectively eliminated the need for any sub-division of the NSA other than that already provided by the LCA.

7.40 In the fourth pilot – Knapdale – a very broad mental sub-division of the NSA after the

familiarisation survey, into Flat Moss, Canal Corridor, Upper Forested Knapdale, Middle Moorland Knapdale and Lower and Coastal Knapdale (without drawing boundaries on the map) was sufficient to ensure that no special qualities would be missed. If two or more viewpoints (and a route in the case of Upper Forested Knapdale) in each of these general areas were selected, it was decided in the period of reflection and selection of viewpoints and routes (steps 5 and 6 in the guidance) that the NSA would be adequately assessed without formally recording these areas on a map.

7.41 Consequently, the guidance in part B does not require sub-division of the NSA.

Instead it emphasises the importance of selecting viewpoints, or sample viewpoints and routes where necessary, from which each landscape character type and all parts or examples of differing parts of the NSA will be seen. This was achieved by the process of familiarisation survey, reflection and drawing up an initial list of special qualities and the careful selection of viewpoints and routes for detailed survey (steps 4, 5 and 6 in the guidance).

7.42 Thus, amongst other things, the pilot work:

(a) reduced the importance of spatial division of the NSAs; (b) increased the importance of familiarisation survey;

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(c) introduced the step whereby a period of reflection is used to consider an initial list of special qualities and how viewpoints and routes need to be selected to ensure comprehensive cover of the NSA;

(d) demonstrated that the special qualities can be identified from information

gathered at a series of carefully selected viewpoints or routes in the NSA, without necessarily mapping different spatial units across the NSA.

Fieldwork

7.43 Essentially fieldwork takes place in two stages with a period of reflection between them. However, the method is flexible and may need to be adapted. For example, the geography of Knapdale, essentially a series of very long peninsulas with single track roads, meant that it was not possible in the time and resources available to travel all round the NSA on a familiarisation survey and again to access the viewpoints. Consequently, the familiarisation survey was carried out as the team travelled down each peninsula; a brief reflection at the end of the journey considered the qualities, viewpoints and characteristics of that peninsula and the detailed fieldwork was undertaken on the return drive. It is considered that there was no disadvantage in doing the fieldwork in this way. The method was applied consistently but in a different sequence. SNH staff joined one of the peninsula ‘runs’ undertaken in the course of one day, so experiencing the work of the familiarisation survey and the detailed fieldwork.

Resources

7.44 Having completed the pilots it is recommended that a team of two to four people is used throughout the process. More than four adds little, if any, value. Only one person would be inadequate because the interaction with a colleague is a vital part of the process, at all stages. The choice between a team or two, three or four is a matter of resources. One member of the team in all pilots was a qualified landscape architect. Other disciplines can play a valuable part and environmental planners, ecologists and recreation/land managers would be useful team members. It is difficult to conclude that a landscape architect is essential. However, it would be useful always to include one to lend ‘gravitas’ to the professional mix of the team, as it may be perceived by others. The non-landscape team members of DTA and SNH had no difficulty in understanding or carrying out the work as effectively as the three landscape architects involved, but it is impossible to separate the influence the landscape professionals may have had on the team as a whole.

7.45 Time inputs are critical to the method meeting the expectations of the Brief. Time

inputs at all stages were initially underestimated because of the gradual evolution of the method and the piloting of different techniques such as viewshed analysis and reworking of LCA information. However, although still too low, the time inputs of the fourth and fifth pilots were closer to estimated inputs. Now that the method is established we suggest that the time inputs in Table 4 below would be realistic for experienced personnel, working in a team of two. If new team members are used for each NSA they would require more time for practice and familiarisation with the method.

7.46 Experience shows that there reaches a point in fieldwork where more time adds very

little value to the work. Experienced personnel completed all fieldwork (steps 4-7) for Upper Tweeddale NSA in 20.5 hours each (total of 41 person hours) excluding writing up time for the fieldwork information. Writing up time averages ½ to one hour per viewpoint or route, there were nine viewpoints in Upper Tweeddale. The team was satisfied that further time would not have generated more or different special

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qualities, but would have continued to confirm or validate those identified in the time already devoted to it.

Table 4 – Suggested Time Inputs

Stage Large NSA person days

Smaller NSA person days

Desk Study Steps 1-3 2-3 (1-2 each) 2-4 (1-2 each)

Fieldwork Steps 4-7 10-14 (5-7 each) 6-8 (3-4 each)

Analysis and Listing including writing up Steps 8-10

3-4 (1½-2 each) 2-3 (1-1½ each)

Totals 15-21 10-15

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PART B: GUIDANCE ON IDENTIFYING THE SPECIAL QUALITIES OF

SCOTLAND’S NATIONAL SCENIC AREAS

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8. IDENTIFICATION OF THE SPECIAL QUALITIES OF SCOTLAND’S NATIONAL SCENIC AREAS

Figure 2 – Process Flowchart

Step 1 Desk preparation

Step 2 Drawing the boundary

Step 3 Understanding the NSA

Step 7 Detailed fieldwork

Step 7A Objective analysis of landscape

Step 7B Visual analysis of landscape

Step 7C Personal responses to scenery

Input research about cultural and historical

associations

Step 8 Deciding what is special

Step 9 Comparing with Scotland’s Scenic Heritage

Step 10 Listing and describing the special

qualities of the NSA

Compile references and OS maps etc

Fieldwork

Analysis and Listing

Step 6 Identifying survey viewpoints and routes

Step 4 Familiarisation survey

Step 5 Period of reflection and initial listing of special qualities

Input Landscape Character

Assessment

Desk study

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8.1 A team of two to four people should be involved in every step of the process, including this initial preparation. Ideally the team should comprise at least one qualified landscape architect and at least one other environmental professional, to diversify the discipline base and to ensure that the assessment of landscape is not expressed in language that may be difficult to follow for non-landscape professionals.

Step 1 – desk preparation

8.2 Each member of the team should read the NSA entry in Scotland’s Scenic Heritage

and understand as far as possible the reasons why the area was selected and what it contains (and omits). Each should read this guidance and the research report published with it, together with the outputs of the pilot work, in order to become more familiar with the processes leading to designation of NSAs, and the ways in which other projects, in Scotland, elsewhere in Britain, Europe and America, and global conventions have sought to define special-ness in landscapes. It will be necessary to obtain relevant maps and the relevant Landscape Character Assessment (LCA), and reports on any previous work in the area identifying special qualities.

Step 2 – drawing the boundary

8.3 Each person involved in the team should study and preferably each should draw the

NSA boundary by hand onto Ordnance Survey maps. This will help to appreciate the nature of the boundary and further improve understanding of the reasons for designation.

8.4 The boundaries of larger NSAs (Assynt - Coigach, Ben Nevis and Glen Coe) should

be drawn at 1:50,000 scale. The boundaries to the smaller NSAs may be better represented on the 1:25,000 Explorer sheets. However, the greater detail offered by the 1:25,000 series will be necessary in the field for all NSAs.

8.5 This work will also be likely to raise questions as to why some areas were included or

excluded from the designated area, especially where the boundary is noticeably extended or indented to include or exclude specific areas. The answers may not be apparent until fieldwork is undertaken but it is useful to note these queries in preparation for fieldwork. The reason for this is because the inclusions or exclusions may relate to the presence or distribution of the special qualities. The drawing of the boundary will also highlight differences between the boundary on the SNH GIS, which should be the boundary drawn in this exercise, and both the written boundary descriptions in Scotland’s Scenic Heritage and the drawn boundary on the accompanying maps in that publication (which are of a more diagrammatic nature). Where variation in boundary lines occurs it should be drawn on to the maps at this stage, so differences can be noted in the field.

8.6 The output of this stage is one or more Ordnance Survey map at 1/25,000 or

1/50,000 scale, with the NSA boundary and any variations shown.

Step 3 – understanding the NSA 8.7 From the relevant Landscape Character Assessment (LCA) in the SNH Review

series, identify which Landscape Character Types (LCT) apply to the NSA. The description and other material for each relevant LCT should be studied by all team members. Each person should draw by hand the boundaries and annotate the names of the LCTs onto the OS Map used in step 2. This will further the understanding of the differences between the different parts of the NSA and aid

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understanding of the character of the area more generally. For Shetland, this process will need to be repeated for each component part of the NSA.

8.8 A summary sheet should be compiled for each LCT that falls wholly or partly within

the NSA. This provides a useful fieldwork baseline of many characteristics of the NSA’s landscape as well as helping to paint an initial mental picture of the study area. Whilst the initial method had required pre-reading of the LCA followed by fieldwork where the NSA team recorded all characteristics themselves, to ensure they looked hard at all aspects of the landscape, in practice it is considered that the pre-preparation of a summary sheet from the LCA, by the NSA team, will serve the purpose. This summary is a record of what should be there and is validated by observation in the field.

8.9 An example of a LCT summary sheet is provided for the Coastal Parallel Ridges LCT

in Knapdale NSA, see Box 6 below. It should be noted that this is not simply a listing of the characteristics set out in the LCA but a fuller description drawn from the LCA and concentrating on the characteristics of the particular unit of this LCT that occurs in Knapdale, ignoring the descriptions of features in Islay, Mull and Jura where the LCT also occurs.

Box 6: Example of a Summary Sheet for a Landscape Character Type - Coastal Parallel

Ridges, Knapdale, from the Argyll Landscape Character Assessment Key Characteristics Distinctive, long, linear, narrow steep-sided rocky ridges with a strong SW – NE alignment formed by tightly folded metamorphic, Dalradian rocks A flooded coastline, where gullies / glens between ridges are deeply scoured by glaciers, over-deepening the narrow gullies which are inundated by the sea The ridges break down at the coast to form chains of rocky islands Horse-shoe shaped sandy bays and extensive intertidal boulder strewn mudflats Stunted oak-birch woodlands on the rocky ridges separating poorly drained narrow gullies / glens with marginal pastures, marshes or lochs Small blocks of coniferous plantations Stone dykes enclosing fields along narrow roads which tend to follow coast and run out as culs de sac at end of peninsulas Small settlements concentrated in coastal coves Small estates derelict crofts and cottages Rich variety of archaeological sites Part of the transition from sea to upland parallel ridges LCT

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8.10 If some of the LCTs appear to be quite similar in nature it may be appropriate to consider merging some of them. The reason for this is to reduce the number of units to be summarised to a manageable number, consistent with resources available. Some LCAs were undertaken in more detail than others, and it is likely that in some cases areas with subtle differences, which in the LCA were sufficient to merit distinguishing between two landscape character types, would nevertheless share the same special qualities. When considering the merging of LCTs it will be important to focus on landform, land use and land cover. If there are only slight differences in these characteristics between two LCTs they may be suitable for amalgamation to reduce survey effort. In some cases the pre-existing LCTs will suffice unaltered and with no amalgamation.

8.11 Some research should be undertaken, proportional to the resources available, in

libraries and the internet, to identify any important associations with the landscape and scenery of the NSA. This work may be supplemented by visits to visitor and information centres and observations and discussions with local people, at the time of fieldwork. Artistic, cultural, historic and scientific associations can be important attributes to landscape character; they are frequently referred to in definitions of special qualities elsewhere. However, to be relevant to NSAs, there needs to be a link to the scenic value. Thus, an association with a writer per se is not in itself sufficient to make it a special quality for a NSA. However, if the writer wrote about the landscape and scenery, and / or set the story in the scenery of the NSA, which was described in the written work, that association could be relevant to a NSA. This is because people associate the story with the landscape, and because the author used the landscape.

8.12 Similarly, historical association is not in itself sufficient to merit consideration as a

special quality in a NSA, but if the scenery of the NSA exhibits features associated with a historic event, or a historic period, an association could be relevant to special qualities. The most obvious examples are architectural styles and designed landscapes, they represent examples of historic periods and often portray strong visual evidence of cultural and historic design, taste and fashion, they contribute to the scenic value of an area and influence its landscape and scenery. Landscapes exhibiting the evidence of historic agricultural practices or industrial enterprises, including abandoned crofting, and some improvement (enclosure) landscapes would similarly be important and could contribute to special qualities, with physical and visual manifestations in the present scenery.

8.13 Mere association with a battle, visits by monarchs, or a birthplace would not in

themselves qualify as special qualities for a NSA, whereas they may (and do) for a National Park with its cultural heritage dimension. However, where the battle story is embedded in the consciousness of those experiencing the landscape (e.g. Glen Coe), or where royal association has influenced the landscape itself, it could be regarded as a special quality. This approach is endorsed to some extent by Scotland’s Scenic Heritage. Whilst making no mention of the battle of Glen Coe (page 51), it refers specifically to the associations of Ruskin and Scott to Lake Katrine in the Trossachs (page 87) and the influence of Queen Victoria and subsequent monarchs on the scenery of Royal Deeside in Deeside and Lochnagar (page 61).

8.14 The outputs of this stage are a map (the one resulting from step 2) with the

landscape character types mapped and named, a summary sheet describing the key landscape characteristics of each landscape character type occurring in the NSA, drawn from the Landscape Character Assessment (e.g. see Box 6 above), and a summary of the historical and cultural associations that may be influential on the appreciation of the special qualities of the NSA (e.g. see Box 7 below).

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Box 7: Example of summary notes on historical / cultural associations and other background

information - The Trossachs NSA

‘The Trossachs’ comes from the Gaelic ‘bristled country’, referring to its vegetation. The original boundary of the area known as The Trossachs extended from Ben A’an in the north, Ben Venue in the south, Loch Katrine to the west and Loch Achray to the east. The NSA boundary extends this area further southeast to include much of Queen Elizabeth Forest Park and the ridge of the Menteith Hills. Today the area widely known as The Trossachs extends still further beyond the NSA boundary. Others writing about the area have observed that the area’s historical and cultural interest adds to the natural beauty, rural scenery and wildlife, animating and offering a romantic introduction to The Trossachs for many of today’s visitors. Countless writers, poets and artists have been drawn to its loch shores, including William and Dorothy Wordsworth, Samuel Coleridge, James Hogg and John Ruskin. But it was the publishing of Sir Walter Scott’s romantic poem ‘Lady of the Lake’ in 1810 and ‘Rob Roy’ in 1817 that the scenic charms of the area came to popularity and established The Trossachs as a major tourist attraction. In his poem ‘Lady of the Lake’, which refers to Loch Katrine, Scott wrote: “So wondrous wild, the whole might seem The scenery of a fairy dream” And specifically about Loch Katrine he wrote: “Where, gleaming with the setting sun, One burnished sheet of living gold, Loch Katrine lay beneath him roll’d In all her length far winding lay, With promontory, creek and bay, And islands that, empurpled bright, Floated amid a livelier light, And mountains, that like giants stand, To sentinel enchanted land” In his novel ‘Rob Roy’, Scott wrote of the tales of Rob Roy MacGregor and the ‘children of the mist’, referring to his followers the Clan MacGregor who lived amidst the wild hills. Rob Roy was born in Glen Gyle at the western end of Loch Katrine and is buried near by. The famous Duke’s Pass is named after Rob Roy’s arch rival, the Duke of Montrose. Bordering the NSA to the north, Glen Finglas was possibly one of the most popular of the royal hunting forests, with many Kings and Scottish Earls hunting there between the early 1300’s to the 1700’s. Many veteran trees still remain. Queen Victoria visited the area on many occasions, and loved it so much she had a holiday house built overlooking Loch Katrine. She is known to have stayed in what is now the Tigh Mor Trossachs hotel, a private, high quality hotel for members of the Holiday Property Bond, with its distinctive turrets and splendid location overlooking Loch Achray. The very routes once followed by Rob Roy’s cattle drovers and the horse-drawn carriages of 19th Century tourists, have become the main arteries, which now carry modern traffic over Duke’s Pass. The Trossachs Trail is a signposted car tour that takes drivers north from Aberfoyle and over the Dukes Pass to take in the spectacular views of an area commonly regarded as ‘the highlands in miniature’. Since Sir Walter Scott’s time, Loch Katrine has changed as a result of it being dammed in 1859 at its eastern end to provide a clean water supply to Glasgow. The loch’s popularity now owes much to the presence of the last steam driven passenger vessel operating in the UK, fittingly named the Steam Ship SS Sir Walter Scott, which sails up and down Loch Katrine.

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Step 4 – familiarisation survey 8.15 The survey team should undertake a comprehensive familiarisation survey of the

NSA prior to detailed fieldwork. It is important that this element is afforded sufficient time because it should not merely comprise a quick look round, but should be the basis of a systematic series of descriptive observations to follow later. A minimum half day is required in the smallest NSAs, but two to three days is required for the largest, so that a familiarisation of all reasonably accessible parts of the NSA and their characteristics (and their spatial distribution and interrelationships) can take place, enabling the combinations of characteristics to ‘seep’ into the consciousness of the team members.

8.16 The familiarisation survey should seek to cover as much of the accessible parts of

the NSA as feasible and in all cases should seek to view and experience all the component Landscape Character Types. To cover the ground in the timescale a car is necessary but frequent stops help, some with short excursions to view points. Digital photographs help to record the variation and character of the NSA, they are used again in later stages. Sketching is useful, but time consuming. Whilst it is not proposed to use each Landscape Character Type as a survey unit they do present a sound basis for ensuring that all representative landscape elements are understood and accounted for in subsequent stages of survey. Reference to the pre-prepared Landscape Character Type summaries will be an important element in this familiarisation process.

8.17 The familiarisation survey offers a valuable and comprehensive ‘read’ of the NSA as

an entity. The outputs of this stage are a series of annotated maps, notes, sketches and photographs, with a retained mental note as to the likely number and location of viewpoints necessary to capture all of the special qualities of the NSA, and whether assessment of routes will also be necessary and if so which routes would best serve the purpose. As explained in paragraph 8.21 below, routes are not necessarily essential, if viewpoints will capture all the special qualities of an area. Routes are useful to embrace the experience of moving through the scenery of the NSA, which may provide additional qualities to those experienced from static viewpoints. Routes are likely to be useful where the experience of an NSA ‘unfolds’ as one travels through it, or where scenery changes noticeably in relatively short distances; or where a series of ‘surprise’ views open up along a road or path.

Step 5 – period of reflection and initial listing of special qualities

8.18 A period of reflection by the team should be taken between the familiarisation survey

and the fieldwork. If necessary, as it was in the field trials, the reflection could be very short, overnight, with a discussion the following morning before immediately starting detailed fieldwork.

8.19 This period should afford the team, as a unit and as individuals, the opportunity to

reflect and consolidate their understanding and appreciation of the tangible and less tangible characteristics of the NSA. It involves both private thought and group discussion. An initial listing of the NSA’s special qualities should be recorded by the team at this stage (which will later be refined). This initial distillation of special qualities will be based upon the desk study, the landscape character assessment, the familiarisation survey and the wider understanding of the NSA’s historic and cultural associations. A revisiting of Scotland’s Scenic Heritage citation at this point may also prove useful in the light of experiencing the NSA at first hand. Some of the text can become more meaningful after seeing the area and thinking about it. For example, the reference in the Trossachs to the juxtaposition with lowlands matched the actual

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perception of the area being something of a ‘transition’ or ‘gateway’ from lowland to highland. The significance of the reference to the hills of ‘great stature’ was made clear when the importance of the backdrop of larger hills behind the valley slopes of Upper Tweeddale was experienced first hand.

8.20 The spatial variation of the qualities that are emerging should also be considered.

This will determine whether and how the NSA may need to be divided into different spatial units to aid the identification of special qualities. Much will depend on local circumstances, the size and homogeneity of the NSA and the nature and distribution of the landscape character types.

8.21 The qualities are likely to have a hierarchy of importance, even if these are not

ultimately set down they are, nevertheless, present in the consciousness. For example, there are qualities of Assynt - Coigach that are special but found in many other places, whereas there are qualities which draw people to it, specifically, which are at least rarer if not unique, e.g. the association with geology and the highly distinctive ‘lone peaks’. There will be qualities that are important in general terms, for example the panoramic vistas of most of the NSAs, the ridges of Knapdale, the ever present afforested hills of the Trossachs and Upper Tweeddale, whereas others are there in the detail of the scenery, the colour of rocks and flowers close to the observer, all of which contribute to the special-ness of the place.

8.22 The outputs of this stage are a preliminary list of special qualities, an example of

which is provided in Box 8 below. Box 8: Example of an initial list of special qualities drawn up following familiarisation work - Assynt -

Coigach NSA

Dramatic, rugged, exposed, isolated landscape. The scale and extent – large unspoilt areas – of the landform. Unique seascape with a combination of scattered islands close to the shore. ‘Edge of world’ experience on the rugged, exposed coast. Sparsely populated, with few small settlements and dispersed crofting areas, yet accessible by determined tourists, walkers and anglers prepared to travel. Larger settlements such as Ullapool (just outside the NSA) and Lochinver comprise sheltered harbours. Other settlements are on flatter land where enclosed grazing and cultivation is easier. Here the brighter greens of pastures contrast with the monotone more sombre heather moorland (colours dependent on season but contrast in colour would remain). Narrow, long, winding roads follow the base of the mountains and loch shorelines, offering dramatic views of ever changing scenery. Extensive areas are inaccessible except on foot, giving a sense of remoteness and quiet. Feeling at one with the natural landscape. A core of wild land. Lack of trees. Coniferous forests are notable by their absence, names such as Inverpolly Forest, Drumrunie Forest and Inchnadamph Forest refer to open deer forests. Steep-sided glens, with narrow bands of sheltered broadleaved woodland, hidden away in the landscape but when encountered they break up the wider, more exposed, prevailing landscape. Strong cnocan landscape of exposed, hummocky terrain with extensive lochs / lochans, over much of the central part of the NSA – mysterious, secretive, unsettling.

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Internationally famous diverse geological character, being the birthplace of major geological thinking by Benjamin Peach and John Horne. Extensive areas of Lewisian Gneiss and Cambrian Limestone contrast with Sandstones, Quartzite and Syenite. Steep, dramatic, exposed sheer cliffs at Inchnadamph and Knockan are unique examples of the Moine Thrust, where overlying schists have been thrust westwards over much older rocks. Visitor attraction at Knockan Crag that tells the story of the unique geology. Dramatic mountainous lone peaks with unique outlines and distinctive shapes which are easily recognisable and referred to by their individual names eg Ben Mor Coigach, Ben More Assynt, Suilven, Canisp and Stac Pollaidh. Provide recognisable land marks throughout the area Unique combination of smooth moorland and peat bog running into rocky moorland / cnocan running up to irregular hill ranges and lone mountain peaks. Exposed, huge glacial erratics give a rugged and desolate beauty. Unique? combination of mysterious, majestic peaks often with caps of white quartzite and light grey lichen, and often shrouded in mist and low cloud, contrasting with the deep, dark, horizontally flat lochs. More managed areas of traditional crofting, where sheep grazing and muir burn dictate the changing appearance of the landscape, such as at Ben Mor Coigach. Wildlife, such as in the Scottish Wildlife Trust’s reserve at Ben Mor Coigach, where northern buckler-fern, trailing azalea and dwarf juniper are less common plants to be found. Ravens and ring ouzels nest in the hills, and red grouse, ptarmigan and twite feed amongst the heather. Stonechat, whinchat, redpoll and wheatear are found down on the crofts. Grey seals and otter frequent the shoreline and islets.

Step 6 – identifying survey viewpoints and routes in the NSA 8.23 The essence of the approach to the identification of the special qualities in the

detailed fieldwork to follow is the identification of a series of representative viewpoints, or routes from where the NSA can be observed, described and what is special in the scenery analysed. To ensure that this is comprehensive of the qualities, it is necessary to establish sufficient viewpoints (and routes), which are appropriately distributed spatially (in both vertical and horizontal planes), to cover all parts of the NSA, or to be representative of all parts of the NSA. Thus, if a particular type of landscape occurs extensively, or in more than one location, it may be sufficient, especially in the larger NSAs where access to all parts is not possible in terms of time resources, to select sample viewpoints. To ensure that the variations of all parts of the NSA are covered it may be necessary to draw up spatial units so that it can be demonstrated that all parts are covered, or sampled. Routes are not necessarily essential, if viewpoints will capture all the special qualities of an area. Routes are useful to embrace the experience of moving through the scenery of the NSA, which may provide additional qualities to those experienced from static viewpoints (see also paragraph 8.17 above for examples).

8.24 It is proposed that identification of survey viewpoints and routes is made on the day

following the completion of the familiarisation survey, irrespective of when the later fieldwork may be undertaken. It is likely that memory will be a sufficient record of what was seen in the familiarisation survey, but photographs and notes will assist.

8.25 In the detailed fieldwork, the field sheet must be completed (obviously in the field),

but it will not be possible to visit every part of every NSA, sampling may be undertaken as appropriate to the resources available and scale and variation of the

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area. The choice of viewpoints will depend on the nature of the area. For example, some parts of an NSA may be assessed from elevated viewpoints, other areas from a series of viewpoints along a road or path crossing the NSA. Equally the sheet may be completed after traversing part of the NSA, without stopping, but observing and mentally noting the features as you travel through the area.

8.26 The selection of viewpoints should consider important viewpoints shown on the OS

Landranger maps, together with other obvious viewpoints such as mountain summits, bridges or headlands and even sequential views as you travel along roads and paths.

8.27 Outputs of this step are a list of the general or precise location of viewpoints and the

location of any routes which will be used as a basis for detailed fieldwork in step 7.

Step 7 – detailed fieldwork Introduction

8.28 In order to inform the process of identifying special qualities it is necessary to consider three main aspects of the scenery, which may be described as the objective analysis of the landscape; the visual analysis of the landscape and personal responses to the scenery. Each of these is recorded in turn for each viewpoint or route in the NSA. In order to provide a structured approach to this detailed fieldwork, and to provide consistency between viewpoints within each NSA and consistency of approach between NSAs, field sheets are used as an aide memoir for this work (see Appendix 6). In practice the completed field sheets comprise a series of scribbled notes that may be legible only to the surveyor. They tend to be heavily annotated and have deletions, examples are not therefore provided here, but Appendices 1 to 5 provide comprehensive examples of the content of the field sheets, in a more structured and legible form, under each of the three main aspects – objective, visual and personal.

8.29 For each of the viewpoints or routes complete the description of key characteristics

set out on field sheet 2. The field sheets should be used simply as prompts and you should use your own terminology where the prompts do not fit well with what you see and experience. The nature of the view should also be recorded. The weather can have profound effects on scenery by changes in the intensity, direction, elevation and clarity of light, the sky can be a dominant or co-dominant element. Whilst you can only record the effects of weather that you see on the visit, from your own knowledge and experience you will be able to anticipate the range of effects and where the weather, light and sky are likely to be important characteristics of landscape Step 7A – objective analysis of the landscape

8.30 For each of the viewpoints or routes complete the description of key characteristics set out on Field sheet 1. If the Field sheet does not fit the particular characteristics of a NSA, the field sheet should be adapted or notes annotated to better record the landform etc. The object of this step is to make as objective a record as possible of the key characteristics of the landscape, with emphasis on the visible and physical characteristics. You are not at this stage trying to decide what is special or important, but what is either: typical / characteristic of the NSA; or rare / unusual / untypical. You will not be trying to record every variation and every detail. The field sheet groups the characteristics under the following headings, which relate directly to the range of qualities identified as potentially relevant from an analysis of special qualities defined for other designated areas: Landform, Land cover / land use, Settlement pattern, Specific features and Wildlife.

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8.31 Landform should be described in bold terms, ignoring minor variations but recording subtler changes to landform where these are distinctive and characteristic. Often the landform in NSAs exhibits important contrasts – steep slopes falling to a flat floodplain, steep cliffs at the edge of wide, flat plateaux, the relationship between topographical features is important to record. Land cover / land use determines the surface vegetation in NSAs ranging from bare rock to dense woodland and from saltmarsh to moorland. Ignore minor land uses but look out for pockets of contrasting land cover as these can add to the variety and diversity of areas often cited in the NSA descriptions.

8.32 Settlement pattern includes all kinds of built development and infrastructure in the

landscape, so it includes the few towns (e.g. Melrose and Stromness), but also the pattern of steadings and individual houses and crofts, and the occurrence of noticeable buildings such as castles, kirks and monuments such as obelisks. Absence of settlement and evidence of previous settlement is important to record. The observed or apparent relationship of buildings and settlement to features in the landscape such as rivers, spring lines, shorelines, bridges and other crossing points etc is also important to record.

8.33 Water may be in the form of the sea, sea lochs and freshwater lochs, rivers, burns

etc and all their features including especially waterfalls, rapids, shores, intertidal features etc. You should record not merely presence but characteristics of the water, speed of flow, sound, tidal movement, and the effects of light and any contrasts with the shape colour or texture of the land.

8.34 Some NSAs may have specific features that may be single points (lighthouse or

tower) or linear (roads or former shorelines) that are characteristic of the area. 8.35 Wildlife should be recorded where it has a strong influence on the character of the

landscape, for example, the sea bird colonies of Shetland, the colourful flower rich areas of the South Uist Machair, the herds of deer on Deeside. Step 7B – visual analysis of the landscape

8.36 The field sheet is broadly divided into Visual Relationships and Visual Experience. Some Visual Relationships will already be recorded on Field sheet 1, in relation, for example, to location of settlement to topography or juxtaposition of landform features. However, this step should continue to look for further relationships, bearing in mind it is often the way in which characteristics combine or interact that make a NSA special. It is an important way in which commonplace features can become special. Look for important compositions, links, juxtapositions and contrasts in the landscape.

8.37 Visual Experience involves more subjective characteristics of a NSA but is usually at

the heart of its selection for designation. To structure the description a series of prompts are suggested under the headings of Scale, Openness, Diversity, Colour and Texture, Mass and line, Movement, Weather, Views.

Step 7C – personal responses to the scenery

8.38 For each of the viewpoints and routes complete the description of key characteristics set out on field sheet 3. This is the most subjective element of the work and is a record of your personal response, in order to make the identification and description of special qualities more meaningful, resonant and evocative. It goes well beyond the normal parameters of LCA by introducing evocative language and personal reactions, normally deliberately excluded from LCA to maintain maximum objectivity.

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8.39 Inevitably, this will introduce more variation to descriptions as different people respond differently. It should be borne in mind that your descriptions will be considered later by a wide community of stakeholders. So excessive or generally inappropriate descriptions are likely to be challenged and modified. Consequently, it is important that you consider the descriptive words carefully, but that you are not inhibited by the prospect that others may not agree with your descriptions. Describe the scenery as you experience it, not as you think others might experience it; others will speak for themselves.

Step 8 – deciding what is ‘special’

8.40 In deciding what is special it is useful to bear in mind that special places are not

necessarily places where the rare or unusual occur, but rather that they can sometimes be places where the commonplace exhibit unusual extremes or come together in ways that invoke a response in people that is regarded as special – inspirational, romantic, wild, dramatic, spectacular, beautiful, tranquil or exhilarating. You should also be aware that those responsible for identifying the special-ness of other places expect you to be able to recognise special qualities when they occur; by definition they are special and therefore ought not to be difficult to identify. Your identification of special qualities will, include subjective judgements. In many ways it will reflect the intuitive, subjective nature of the designation process and, like that process, will also be based on informed consensus.

8.41 You now have a series of descriptions of the key characteristics of the NSA; they will

all be of importance, in the sense that they contribute to the character of the landscape and experience of the scenery. You must now decide which of them, or which combinations / interactions of them, are ‘special’, what do you consider are the characteristics that individually or when combined together make the area special in terms of its landscape or scenery?

8.42 It is likely that most special qualities are relevant to all or several parts of the NSA,

especially those that relate to the combinations, juxtapositions and contrasts between characteristic areas. Some special qualities will relate to parts of the NSA, for example, the uplands or valleys, which are different to other parts. Some special qualities may relate to a single point or location in the NSA, for example, a castle and its setting. Teasing out the special qualities is a challenging task, there is no one now better placed to do it than the team that has completed the assessment work. It will be for others to consider your outputs and add or change the qualities according to their differing perspectives, yours is the systematic, professional definition of special qualities and you will be able to explain your conclusions on a rational and consistent basis. The diagram in Figure 3 may help you to tease out the special qualities from the many characteristics and their relationships that you have identified.

8.43 The whole process should have been undertaken by at least two people and it is

particularly important to undertake this step, defining what is special about the NSA, as a team either together in discussion or by merging separate lists and descriptions generated by each team member separately.

8.44 It may be concluded from Figure 3 that there could be some criteria that can be used

to guide judgements about special qualities. Indeed, fairly obviously, characteristics that are individually rare, outstanding, extraordinary or dramatic would be likely to be special. It is important to look for combinations, juxtapositions, contrasts, harmonies and complexities because research has shown that these are important aspects of identifying special qualities elsewhere. However, it should not be assumed that these

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considerations will always and invariably apply, nor should it be assumed that all special qualities will always fit into one or other of these characteristics. Figure 3 should be seen rather as a signpost to the process of thinking about and drawing out the special qualities, rather than a prescriptive process that contains all relevant criteria or considerations. Again, it is emphasised that the team that has undertaken the work so far will be able to identify the special qualities without a carefully defined and explicitly described process.

Figure 3 – Deciding what is special – a guide to the approach

Step 9 – comparing with Scotland’s Scenic Heritage

Characteristics

Objective Analysis Characteristics Field sheet 1

Visual ExperienceCharacteristics Field sheet 2

Personal Responses

Field sheet 3

Are any characteristics

individually rare / outstanding / extraordinary / dramatic etc?

Visual Relationships Fieldsheet 2 Do any of the characteristics contribute to or create special:

- combinations - juxtapositions - contrasts - harmony - diversity - complexity etc.

Interactions between landscape and

associations informed by fieldwork

Consider what qualities are emerging as special; can you define, describe and justify

them?

List and describe the Special Qualities of the NSA, test against checklist for

comprehensiveness

Associations From Desk Research

8.45 Compare the special qualities that you have identified and described with those in Scotland’s Scenic Heritage (SSH). Do not expect a perfect match but the identification of special qualities will be further informed by the following comparison.

• Which of the special qualities that you have defined are cited (explicitly or

implicitly) in SSH?

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• Which of the special qualities that you have defined are not cited (explicitly or implicitly) in SSH?

• Are there any special qualities cited in SSH that you have not identified?

Step 10 – describing what is ‘special’

8.46 List and describe the special qualities selected and provide any commentary or notes

that you consider appropriate. There are many ways in which the special qualities can be presented in lists and descriptions, as illustrated in the outputs of the five pilot areas, described in Part C below. None are right or wrong and different people will have different opinions. Short, staccato, bullet point descriptions can be helpful in identifying management objectives, because they are focused and sharply defined. More evocative and poetic descriptions are useful in promotion work because they are more inspirational and evoke interest and resonance in people. Illustrations such as photographs can be useful to supplement the descriptions.

8.47 There was considerable discussion in the study as to whether some special qualities

were more special than others. There may be a hierarchy of special qualities; some may be very important, unique to the area or defining of its distinctiveness, others may be secondary, more widespread but nevertheless adding to the special-ness of the area. Where there are clear distinctions between these ‘headline’ qualities and ‘detailed’ qualities it may be appropriate to distinguish between them, but this will not always be possible or necessary. The consultants wrote the descriptions of the five pilot NSAs, reproduced in Part C, on the basis that the full text expressed all that was special about the areas. Nothing described in the text was not a special quality, or was not something that needed to be described in order to elucidate the special-ness of the NSA. SNH felt that the descriptions of the special qualities were not sufficiently focused on the important qualities and that some highlighting was necessary to make the descriptions useful. The consultants felt that this would detract from the importance of the combination and integration of all that contributed to the special-ness of the NSA, which relied on the way that these qualities all came together. It was agreed, therefore, that in order for both views to be available, the text would remain and SNH staff would highlight what they considered to be the more important elements of the qualities. This is why much of the text in Part C is in bold font.

8.48 As indicated above, there may be important variations in the spatial distribution of

special qualities, many will relate to all or several parts of the NSA, such as those that highlight contrasts between characteristic areas. Some special qualities will relate only to particular parts of the NSA, for example, the uplands or valleys, which are different to other parts. Some special qualities may relate to a single location in the NSA, for example, a gorge or flat moss.

8.49 Some special qualities, such as land cover and settlement pattern, will be capable of

being changed, by management or development, others will be fixed, such as landform. All should be recorded even if they may not be directly relevant to management strategy actions and policies.

8.50 Check that the list of special qualities covers the full scope and range of potential

qualities. It is possible that under some headings, for example, wildlife, there is nothing special in a particular NSA, but it is worth checking against the following list. Are there any special qualities relating to:

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landform including geomorphology, natural processes and systems and water;

land use and land cover especially their relationship with landform and

settlement;

settlement including villages, steadings, crofts, houses, industrial and agricultural infrastructure, road and other transport structures;

authenticity and integrity expressed, for example, as areas of distinctiveness,

sense of place and unspoilt character; visual experience, especially the combinations, contrasts, harmony, variety

and complexity of the scene;

emotional response such as perceptions of remoteness, secrecy, wildness, exhilaration, safety, shelter etc

wildlife where flora and fauna make a special contribution to the scenery

without necessarily expressing them in habitat or species specific terms or scientific language; and

history and culture, especially where historical land use, buildings, artefacts,

or monuments, or archaeological sites such as prehistoric forts, contribute significantly to the landscape character and scenery.

8.51 However, try not to write up the descriptions and lists under these headings because

it produces a repetitive format that does not portray interest and evocative descriptions that come more readily from text that runs the topics together to emphasise their interrelationships, combinations etc. The best way to highlight the contrasts and diversity of many of the NSAs will be to blend the descriptions of the more physical characteristics of landform, land cover and settlement with the more evocative descriptions of visual experience and emotional response. Consistency can be achieved by checking the evocative descriptions are inclusive, without reproducing the checklist.

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PART C:

THE SPECIAL QUALITIES OF THE PILOT NATIONAL SCENIC AREAS

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9. THE SPECIAL QUALITIES OF ASSYNT - COIGACH NATIONAL SCENIC AREA

The lone mountains and mountain scenery

9.1 The central and southern parts of the NSA are a land with lone mountains rising dramatically from the cnocan and moorland. They dominate the Assynt - Coigach scenery and stay in the memory long after departing. The peaks are afforded a platform, a broad stage from which they thrust upwards, often with striking, steep-sided profiles which are recognisable from many miles away. Of these, perhaps it is Suilven which most encapsulates the splendour and mystique of Assynt - Coigach. Other Scottish mountains may offer greater elevation and concentration, but few can challenge their grandeur, distinctiveness and impact on the viewer.

9.2 Whilst distinctive by the notable separation of the mountains, owing to the complexity

of the geology, the scenery of Assynt - Coigach also offers great variety of topography, colour, water, vegetation cover, land use and recreational potential. Within the NSA the lone mountains stand as the hallmark of the area, but there are also bluffs, sweeping moorlands, sea cliffs, lush grassy slopes with rocky outcrops, massive boulder fields and scree slopes, caves and shallow gorges, sink holes, jagged pinnacles and broad, powerful sweeping summits. Colours range from dark solid sandstone to extensive, dominant limestone greys.

9.3 There is a distinct transition in landform and elevation from the coastal fringe and

peninsulas of low lying crofts and cnocan through lone mountains of the central plain and upwards to the eastern extent of the NSA across the Ben More Assynt massif, stretching from the head of Loch Glendhu south to the Benmore Forest.

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9.4 The wider, open and less steep country of uninhabited rough cnocan and smooth moorland emphasises the remoteness of the mountains, offers a stage from which they are best admired and yet also presents a deceptively tough obstacle to their entry. They present a stark but complementary and harmonious juxtaposition of mountain and moorland landscapes.

Cnocan

9.5 The cnocan has a strange, unwelcoming character. It is extensive, secretive and mysterious, but its extent is not appreciated until viewed from higher ground such as the tops of the cnoc mounds or the lone peaks. The ancient Lewisian gneiss appears deceptively flat, in comparison to its backdrop of high peaks, but it has a coarse, rough surface hiding many hollows and gullies making access difficult, once off the miles of single-track road. Penetration is further impeded by the vegetation which is dominated by heather, gorse and grasses on boggy soils between exposed rock and boulders, rarely giving shelter. Locally, the Coigach area reflects a smoother moorland characteristic but the harshness of the Assynt cnocan is readily viewed from the coastal road and the area behind the settlements of Drumbeg and Clachtoll which are held in its grip.

Remoteness and an open landscape

9.6 The juxtaposition of cnocan, sweeping moorland and concentrated pockets of unenclosed pasture emphasises the extreme openness of Assynt - Coigach. Apart from the heart of the Coigach range around Beinn Mor Coigach, and the hidden steep sided folds of wooded valleys on the Assynt Coast Road (B869), this is a landscape of vast open space and exposure. There are few trees and the skies are often expansive, particularly on the coastal fringe. Human activity and population is notable by its absence in most areas, emphasising the feelings of openness, remoteness and emptiness. This is notable particularly between Inchnadamph and the Elphin area.

9.7 Lack of traffic or transport infrastructure further imbues a sense of

remoteness, further emphasised by the effort required to reach Assynt - Coigach, enhancing the feeling of being towards the edge of Europe. Access into many areas of Assynt - Coigach away from the skeletal road network is limited to walking. Significant tracts of land reveal little evidence of human presence or use. The eastern highlands of Ben More Assynt, the high Coigach Massif and the western cnocan fringe, behind the crofting settlements, have a wild land character. The road network is sinuous and rarely conspicuous in the scenery, apart from the striking Kylesku bridge. Small single track roads provide the road user with a very close and intimate experience of their surroundings.

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The coast and seascapes

9.8 The majesty of the mountains, steep, rocky, individual and dramatic is framed not only by the flats of cnocan, moor and pasture, but also by the sea. It is as though there is an epic struggle for superiority between the Atlantic ocean and the ancient landmass, especially at Badcall Bay and to the south from Coigach to the Summer Isles. Here the profusion of islands and islets, bays and coves affords a sometimes confused mosaic, blurring the transition from land to sea. Often, from low elevations, these islands falsely suggest unbroken land far into the sea, or appear as monumental stepping-stones out from the shore. The meeting of sea and land is sometimes dramatic and abrupt. The Stoer Peninsular, crowned by its whitewashed lighthouse and adorned by its great eponymous sea stack, further emphasises remoteness. Here the noise of the relentless north Atlantic waves and tides meet some of the oldest rocks on earth and the movement and noise this affords is in stark contrast to the quiet stillness of the area’s interior.

9.9 The seascapes of Assynt - Coigach are not always fierce or dramatic. On occasion

the weather affords still conditions and blue skies which reveal an idyllic coastal refuge of small bays and tight sandy coves, particularly on the Coigach peninsular.

Settlements and activity

9.10 These bays are often framed in part by strings of small crofts on the fringes of inbye land by the seashore. The depth of the beaches at low tide is often in excess of their width, nestled within tight but soft and low headlands. Lobster pots, fishing boats and netting reveal the importance of the sea to the remote crofting and fishing communities. The low-rising and generally flat cnocan landscape of the peninsulas of Assynt, and of Coigach, screen inland views from the small settlements which perch on the slopes down to the rocky shore or silvery beaches. From the shore the same cottages and crofts can appear perched and standing firm in the face of the prevailing elements.

9.11 Concentrations of pasture around small crofting settlements on the coast and inland

around Elphin, occasionally offer a sense of relief from the drama and dominance of the wildness of the landscape. Here human activity is at its most obvious but still widely scattered and always subservient to the wider landscape of wild moor and dramatic peak.

Lochs and lochans

9.12 Only the long, linear, narrow Loch Assynt and the twin sea lochs of Glencoul and Glendhu offer significant expanses of deep water in the shadows of Quinag and Glas Bhenn. The mountains here fall steeply through their moorland skirts to plunge

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to the water’s edge, with little change in character, land use or vegetation along the way.

9.13 Elsewhere, there is an intricate multitude of lochs and lochans in the cnocan and

moorland interior and coastal fringe. Often extensive tracts of rough and rugged gorse, heather and peat bog contain significant networks of medium and small lochans and burns, with intricate irregular form, interlocking with the low land around them and creating a significant challenge to the cross-country walker. The lochans suggest a relatively shallow depth surrounded by worked peatlands. The true extent of this water network is mostly apparent from the elevated vantage points of the lone mountains. Loch Lurgainn, Loch Sionascaig and Loch Veyatie in the heart of Coigach may appear to rival Loch Assynt in terms of their extent, but their shorelines’ complexity and presence of small isles serve to diffuse their scale on the scenery.

Woodland

9.14 Trees are scarce in the NSA with many eastern parts virtually treeless, the ‘forest’ names of Inverpolly, Drunrunie and Inchnadamph referring to the open deer forest. It is the cnocan, especially that of Assynt which hides the most unexpected and extensive tracts of semi-natural woodland. Here the deep folds in the Lewisian gneiss, which generally run north-west to south-east afford some shelter and sufficient soils for linear woodlands of birch and willow to flow along the landform. These stand in stark contrast and welcome relief to the openness and hostility of the cnocan.

Geology

9.15 The geological complexities of the area were gradually unravelled in the late 19th and early 20th centuries through extensive study around Inchnadamph, and helped establish the modern understanding of earth sciences. This complexity and drama of the geology is there for all to view, from skilled geologist to casual observer and affords distinction to the area.

Wildlife

9.16 The flora and fauna of the NSA contribute more subtly to its special qualities. The delicacy of the mountain alpines, bog plants and lichens attract attention at each footfall. Stonechat, ring ousel, cuckoo and wheatear catch the eye and the ear in often silent surroundings. At the opposite extremes, golden eagle, proud herds of red deer, seals and whales close to shore offer the possibility of sighting exciting and spectacular animal life.

A still, quiet landscape

9.17 Assynt - Coigach is a landscape where human movement tends to be minimal. In contrast the skyscape, governed by the north Atlantic weather systems, provides almost constant change, often characterised by heavy cloud scudding across the landscape, in turn obscuring the higher peaks and providing a more horizontal emphasis to the scene. At other times this movement reveals, sometimes fleetingly, the same peaks, to remind the observer of the drama thus obscured. The extensive waters of the NSA offer a constant, if subtle, sense of movement and change, fuelled by the relentless march of the ocean’s weather systems. The absence of significant tree cover in the landscape, as well as the openness, remoteness and lack of traffic also contribute to this being a very ‘still’ landscape. Small inshore craft slowly working the bays of the peninsula offer occasional movement across the sea.

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9.18 The special qualities that combine to make the Assynt - Coigach NSA of national importance are largely embraced by the NSA boundary. However, the boundary line to the east and south east of the NSA appears to be arbitrary, following grid lines rather than topographic features or scenic composition. The special qualities of the NSA are likely to extend beyond this boundary but considerable fieldwork over extensive tracts of difficult-to-access land would be required to draw a more appropriate boundary.

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10. THE SPECIAL QUALITIES OF BEN NEVIS AND GLENCOE NATIONAL SCENIC AREA

Upland grandeur and variety

10.1 This is a landscape of massive proportions, breathtaking grandeur and great

variety. It is a land of classic highland vistas, offering the greatest altitude (and relative vertical relief) in Britain, but also one where, with each crossing of a glen or watershed, the scenery dramatically changes. It is the inter-relationships as well as individual qualities of the mountains, moors, glens and lochs that elevate the landscape scenery of Ben Nevis and (particularly) Glen Coe, to iconic status.

10.2 This is a landscape where man’s

influence is sometimes marked, sometimes negligible. It is a landscape where settlement is concentrated on loch-side straths, such as at Kinlochleven, Glencoe and Ballachulish; where the road and ski infrastructure penetrate deeply into the mountains and moorlands. Even the coast of Loch Leven, is characterised by aquaculture, inshore fishing and pleasure craft activities. The mountains, moors and glens are visited by many those in search of the outstanding scenic experience, or outdoor exhilaration and challenge. It is not remote by distance or time from major settlement, particularly Fort William, and a sense of true remoteness must be searched for, human contact in the upper glens and moors is to be expected. Nevertheless, scenic quality and drama prevails, and human settlement and activity does not seriously challenge its grandeur. A journey of contrasts

10.3 The most striking landscape drama,

contrast and juxtaposition of moor, mountain and seascape is experienced as the visitor crosses from south-east to north-west across the NSA along the A82. The route from Bridge of Orchy rises gradually from the Tulla basin to the lip of Rannoch Moor, revealing an expanse of barren and wet peat moorland which seems prehistoric in its character. The road bisects the moor on a true and straight line; there is a sense that departure from its line would lead to isolation and exposure in an inaccessible, intricate mosaic of high, but gently profiled, wet moorland and shallow peaty lochans. The framing of the moor by the highland peaks which funnel towards Glen Coe is striking. The Black Mount range rises ominously to the south, gradually encroaching upon the moor until

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the entrance of the glen presents a striking contrast to the openness of Rannoch Moor.

10.4 As this classic journey across the NSA progresses, the soaring, dramatic

splendour of Glen Coe alters the traveller’s experience and a sense of deep enclosure prevails, whilst the scenery increases yet in splendour and drama as the glen is traversed. The pyramidal profile of the mountain of Buachaille is striking as it stands sentry to the glen’s entrance, but is challenged by numerous other distinctive peaked summits along the glen’s twin ridges, one of which is the 10 kilometres long, notched ridge of Aonach Eagach. From here the steep and high sided rocky, rugged mountains soar from the generously proportioned flat valley floor, adorned with scree fans, vertical outcrops and hanging valleys. Access to the foot of the slopes is straightforward, but their high, vast, sheer slopes require skill, energy and determination to scale. The usually broad glen floor of grassland and heather falls gradually to the north-west and the river Coe masks its seasonal powers as it cascades through gorges and across stony washlands, fed by many waterfalls and lively mountain burns which spill almost vertically into the glen from their lofty source. In the lower reaches of the glen the river plays only a minor role in the summer-time scenery, but its broad and braided gravel beds and boulder debris tell of a thundering power in spate.

10.5 Glen Coe’s splendour is not diminished as it falls to sea level and meets Loch Leven,

albeit some way from the open sea. The meeting of the glen and the loch is enhanced by the suddenness of the transition between high mountain pass and the lightly wooded strath which separates the two dominant landscape elements. The twisting line of the glen afforded by the western sentinels of Meall Mor and Sgorr nam Fiannaidh emphasises the suddenness of the transition and from the north serves to obscure the entrance to the mighty breach through the mountains.

10.6 The final element to this classic journey is the skirting of Loch Leven, a fjord-like sea

loch which strikes deep into the upland of the NSA’s core. The A82 meets the loch close to its opening out to the sea beyond the distinctive bridge and narrows, and sees a concentration of settlement of Glencoe and Ballachulish villages. Here the deep enclosure of the glen is relieved by the narrow, lightly wooded strath with meadows and plantations aside the loch which prevails as the dominant element in the coastal scene. The wooded slopes of the north shore, the peak of the ‘Pap of Glencoe’ and the forested southern valley sides provide a less dramatic sense of enclosure, which the bridge contributes to by affording a visual barrier to the openness of the outer loch. Here the islands of the middle loch add to the detail of the waterscape and provide natural refuge and shelter for mooring pleasure craft and fishing boats. The expanse of calm waters affords a far brighter light to pervade than across the moor or within the Glen, and this glistening reflection, particularly in early or evening hours adds a magical air to the place.

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Ben Nevis 10.7 The huge Ben Nevis range dominates the setting of Fort William, lying just outside

the NSA. The brooding mountain and its massive rolling shoulders attracts a wide variety of walkers and climbers some drawn to its challenging north east approach up the dramatic, rocky precipices of Coire Leis and Carn Mor Dearg, others will simply want to reach the highest point in Britain, irrespective of its beauty, drama or splendour. The Ben Nevis range differs markedly from the Glen Coe range both in physical character and geological origins. It is a rolling rounded massif (except when approached from the north), bisected with deep, smooth sided glens cut by mountain burns such as that of Allt Daim. Vegetation is simple, grass and heather moorland flowing over convex slopes. Boulder fields and outcrops proliferate with increasing altitude, but this remains a simple, exposed, open massive mountain landscape.

Glen Nevis

10.8 The glen separates the Ben Nevis range from the Mamores and Mamore Forest –

open rolling moorland and rounded, rocky mountains exhibiting wild integrity and unspoilt character. The glen offers a striking transition from the pastoral lower valley where the river Nevis meanders into Fort William, lined with alder woodlands and stands of mature oak, flanked by gentle meadow, but bounded by the mass of the Ben’s foothills. Tenuous groups of willow and birch cling to burn sides in vertical green fingers. Travelling eastwards into the mid glen the valley floor narrows and the steepness and the broken character of the glen sides gradually increases, the hillside profiles become more rugged, with rocky outcrops prevailing. Here the lightly forested glen sides are complemented by remnants of ancient, gnarled Scots pine woods, clinging precariously between boulder and outcrop, and dominating the less dramatic willow, birch and alder woodlands. Here the river energetically tumbles through an increasingly rocky, boulder-strewn and secretive gorge, affording, in the words of Scotland’s Scenic Heritage a ‘Himalayan’ character to the scene. The upper glen is secretive inviting exploration of its extremely flat alpine meadow, bounded by steep upper slopes of the Ben and the Mamores. The drama of the Steall waterfalls is complemented by the peacefulness of the enclosure and detail of the cotton grass and broad, gravelly river beds.

Upper Loch Leven

10.9 Here a long, linear, narrow,

fjord-like and u-shaped upper sea loch penetrates deep into the mountain setting. Its sides are often concave and banded from the water’s edge through thick broadleaved and coniferous woodland, to the open moors of the Mamores and northern Glen Coe ridge. Vistas from sea level, or from its upper slopes, are stunning, with the distinct conical peaks betraying its point as transition between the rounded northern ranges and the pinnacle

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and drama of the Glen Coe range. At its head lies the isolated settlement of Kinlochleven, a small town built on mining, industry and power generation. The settlement has a particular charm enhanced by its long access route and an air of self-sufficiency.

Glen Etive

10.10 This glen runs south from the upper reaches of Glen Coe flanked by the towering

peaks of the Buachailles and the great slabs of Ben Starav. It is a generally smooth-sided and extremely long, cleft valley, gradually sloping to the head of Loch Etive, a remote, relatively inaccessible sea loch. This glen affords tranquillity and peacefulness, with a narrow sinuous single track road extending to the shore, where it abruptly ends at the disused pier. From here the narrow, elegant loch stretches seawards, free of obvious human infrastructure, settlement or intrusion. There is a harmonious transition from the broad lower valley floor of the braided river Etive to the open water of the sea loch. The simple profile of the glen is nevertheless dramatic, with smooth, high, u-shaped valleys meeting the main glen. The upper slopes give way from grass to rocky conical summits, and their sides characterised by steep streambeds opening out to rocky fans of scree. The glen’s vegetation is predominantly of smooth grassland, with trees in small, sporadic stands or plantations, particularly in its lower reaches. However, in places rhododendron colonises the western valley sides detracting from the semi-natural vegetation but adding striking colour in the early summer months. The upper reaches of the river Etive offer interesting and sharply contrasting detail to the overall simplicity of the landscape. Its shallow, gorged profile within the sweeping, smooth grassland draws attention, emphasised by the crystal pools and waterfalls over a complex geological bedrock. Settlement in this glen is minimal, with a single hunting lodge dominating the lower reaches, and the occasional cottage. A dark heritage

10.11 The grandeur and drama of the NSA is undeniable and irresistible, and modern

development seems not to have diluted this grand scenery. However the village of Glencoe at the foot of the glen itself carries with it a history of betrayal and massacre which remains pertinent to the area’s character and ambience. The murder of 38 of the Clan Macdonald in 1692 by order of the crown, and the subsequent loss of life of women and children from exposure after the King’s soldiers had lodged within the village for several nights, engenders feelings of sorrow and disquiet. Whilst infamous for the massacre the glen also carries with it legend of cattle rustling and banditry between clans and government, secret refuges in hidden valleys and tales of incredible hardship. All weave together with the scenery of the area to present a dramatic and fascinating experience to the visitor.

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Extent of the special qualities

10.12 The special qualities that combine to make the Ben Nevis and Glen Coe NSA of national importance do not generally extend beyond the boundaries, with the possible exception of the southern boundary, in the vicinity of Glen Kinglass. Here the boundary may be considered to be drawn conservatively and could, for example, follow a line along the peaks and the viewshed boundary afforded by Beinn Mhic Mhonaidh, Beinn Eunaich and Ben Cruachan, across Loch Etive at Bonawe, and then northwards to meet the current boundary to the south of Glen Coe across the peaks of Beinn Mheadhonach, Creach Bheinn and Beinn Sgulaird.

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11. THE SPECIAL QUALITIES OF KNAPDALE NATIONAL SCENIC AREA

11.1 A landscape of long, linear, narrow, steep-sided ridges with a strong south-west to

north-east direction formed by the tightly folded metamorphic, Dalradian rocks which sweep down to the coast and plunge beneath the sea, reappearing as chains of rocky islands off-shore. These distinctive ridges have a strong identity and are dramatically juxtaposed to the flat expanse of the Moine Mhor bog crossed by the sinuous line of the river Add slowly flowing to the equally unusual morphology of the double bay at Crinan.

11.2 Thus, the northern part of the

NSA is a distinctive flat moss, with occasional, sheer, volcanic ‘plugs’ such as Dunadd and oak-wooded, lower, outlying ridges protruding out of the bog. To the west is the coastal bay at Crinan with its extensive intertidal mud and sand flats, an inner and outer bay each with its own character and a variety of coastal grassland and wetland habitats merging into the toe of the bog.

11.3 The rest of the NSA is the parallel ridges evocative of this part of Argyll. The

upper, northern parts of the ridges are almost entirely blanketed with coniferous plantations obscuring the landform and hiding the secret lochans within the afforested trenches of the deeply folded ridges, forming rich oases for wildlife and portraying a rather magical, slightly unsettling but calm, secluded, intimate tranquillity. The small lochs appear almost as if they are large wildlife ponds, or a secret garden reminiscent of ‘Alice in Wonderland’ with a disorientation of scale.

11.4 Further south, in middle Knapdale, the forest subsides and is replaced by the

billowing crowns of Atlantic oakwoods or open grassy or bracken covered moorlands with a variety of textures and colours. Here the shape of the ridgelines is revealed providing a dynamic, sweeping strongly horizontal skyline enclosing the loch-filled trenches.

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11.5 Lower, southern and coastal

Knapdale is dominated by the presence of the sea and dramatic sea views from the comfort and safety of sheltered bays, inlets and sea lochs, looking across to sparkling or misty offshore islands and the massive, looming, bulk of Jura, with Islay in the distance. The coast is interesting, often quite active with the movement of people, boats and vehicles, but always peaceful and relaxing with a seaside holiday ambience heightened by children playing and people camping.

11.6 The visitor is compelled to explore right to the end of the seemingly endless

peninsulas, just to see what is there. The journey, along the winding road through the trenches of upper Knapdale and along the loch shore is slow, with views ever changing and unfolding; sometimes the landform or woodland suddenly opens to present surprise vistas across the hills and sea. The reward is the sea views and the remoteness, isolation and seclusion of the peninsula, a place to stay and contemplate, at the end of the road. The peninsula feeling is as strong as that of disembarking onto an island after a sea journey. The sea views are exhilarating, mysterious, sometimes dramatic yet enjoyed without effort, risk or exposure.

11.7 At the foot of the steep edge of

the ridges and at the edge of the bog, wends the historic and fully restored sometimes quite busy, basin of the Crinan Canal, which adds to the special-ness and distinctiveness of Knapdale, nowhere else is there this juxtaposition of ridge-land, canal and flat moss close to coastal bays.

11.8 Knapdale is a landscape of

contrasts, between the steep flanks of the ridges and flat lochs trapped in the glens by the scouring glaciers, which formed linear, fjord-like, sea lochs in a drowned coastline; or the contrast between the sheer edges of the ridges and the wide, flat expanse of the moss. There are contrasts everywhere, including those of scale between the close-up detail of the coastal flora against a backdrop of large ridges and dramatic topography, or the close-up detail of the flora of the moss in the context of its vast expanse.

11.9 It is a landscape dominated by skylines, providing strong linear features within

the landscape, framing and enclosing views, particularly from the sea lochs and within the ridge-framed basin of the moss. In upper, forested Knapdale the

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skyline is of blunt or jagged lines of conifers at the top of parallel ridges; in middle, moorland Knapdale the ridges are often bare rock or grassy moorland where the variety of skylines are revealed as rounded, undulating, sweeping, crenulated or toothed moorland. In lower coastal Knapdale the ridges fall to the sea forming a steep, rugged coast interspersed with sandy coves, and sea-weed strewn rocky shores.

11.10 The Atlantic oak woodland is characteristic and adds a wild and natural

dimension to many views throughout middle and lower, coastal Knapdale; it rolls around the hills, clings to the cliffs and scarps, flows into the gullies and dips of the burns, billows and wraps around the ridges and occasionally clothes the skyline. It provides a rich haven for wildlife and peaceful, seclusion for people. The woods lend harmony to the scene, a further contrast to the plantations in upper Knapdale, which never quite seem to fit the ridges in the same natural way. The coniferous-covered ridges have different flora and fauna, they can be silent or still and can feel dominating and disorientating, an awareness increased by their height and imposing stature, exaggerated by the height of the trees. They present a sense of adventure throwing a challenge to explore their depths, whereas the oakwoods offer a more welcoming, safe and natural invitation.

11.11 Contrasts are further enriched by the variety of colours, sounds and smells in the

differing parts of the NSA. The hills and woods adopt an ever changing, dynamic of patterns created by sunlight or cloud, rain or mist, sometimes casting light and brightness on the foreground contrasting with the darker ridges, alternately hidden and revealed as the mists or cloud lift and fall. Along the coast is the contrast of the bright greens of pastures and iris beds with a backdrop of dark green or grey moorland. Birdsongs and calls from woodland, moorland and bog are complemented by the cries of seabirds and waves gently lapping in the bays and coves. Inland, the water moves slowly along sinuous rivers, marked by riparian tree belts, or lies still in the drains of the bog, or rests mirror like in the canal until the lock gates are released. Smells add considerably to the landscape, especially the smells of the sea, the shore, the dank coniferous woodlands, damp oakwoods, bog myrtle and iris beds on and near the moss, and the freshness of the moors.

11.12 The combination of the

distinctive ridged landform and the loch filled trenches of the deeply folded rocks epitomise the Knapdale landscape. The lochs in middle and lower, coastal Knapdale penetrate finger-like, deeply into the land, to create the distinctive peninsulas, each subtly different to the others. The lochs form gateways and corridors to the sea. The tidal edge adds interest and diversity as well as a cyclical change to the shorelines. The surface of the lochs is continuously moving with ripples or waves, usually quiet and calm, owing to the deep shelter of the incised glens of which they form the floor. The shorelines provide as strong horizontal lines as those of the ridged skylines.

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11.13 Despite the dramatic edges of the different landforms of ridge and moss, sea

and slopes, the vegetation has more gradual transitions between habitats, from forestry plantation, to woodland, bracken, grass moorland, pastures, coastal wetlands, shorelines and intertidal. The colours and striking flora of the iris beds, saltmarsh, rush pasture, wet cotton grass and short turf of grazed rocky outcrops adds to the sense of place and naturalness of the scenery.

11.14 The sense of place and history is profound stretching from prehistory, through

the centuries to the ancient kingdom of Dalradia. The iconic landmark viewpoint of Dunadd provides a breathtaking 360 degree panorama, more spectacular than its modest height might portray. Here and across the northern part of the NSA, in the Glens of Kilmichael and Kilmartin are found some of the finest examples in Scotland of standing stones, reclining stones, stone circles, cup and ring marked slabs and other prehistoric landscape features. Dunadd may have been a viewpoint used to define the boundary of the NSA as it expands beyond Bridgend and follows the ridges and hills that define the view from the coronation rock. This is a profoundly evocative, ancient place where everyone will draw some inspiration, sense of space or history; a landscape of great historical continuity.

11.15 Other, more contemporary human influences on the scenery include activities

in a working landscape of fishing, farming, crofting, forestry, sailing or boating along the canal, all strongly related to the natural heritage and appearing as quiet, harmonious and sustainable. Small cottages nestle into the landscape; steadings are hidden by their sheltering tree groups. Small villages lie in the plain of the river Add or hide in remote coastal coves. There is a sense of pride and identity in the area with neat, white painted or grey stone buildings capped with slate, and the carefully restored waterway with its bright cottages, and gardens, yet another contrast to the remote wildness of the coastal moorlands at the ends of the peninsulas.

11.16 The special qualities that combine to make the Knapdale NSA of national importance

do not generally extend beyond the boundaries.

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12. THE SPECIAL QUALITIES OF THE TROSSACHS NATIONAL SCENIC AREA

12.1 The special character of the Trossachs is a product of an intricate blend of

elements; not necessarily outstanding in their own right, but when concentrated in a small area, offer a distinctive and very attractive landscape that is in effect familiarly recognised as a gateway to the Highlands, the epitome of the romantic Scottish landscape encapsulated in a relatively small and accessible area.

12.2 The three core components of the Trossachs’ scenic quality are the tight

concentration of loch, woodland and open hill/mountain. These merge harmoniously with broad-leaved woodland framing the lochs, particularly attractive around Achray and eastern Katrine; and framing the open hillsides, particularly those of the dominant Ben Venue. Sometimes the change from water to woodland and woodland to open hillside is transitional, broken and intricate, like eastern Katrine’s relationship with Ben Venue, whilst in others the change is abrupt, as in upper Gleann Riabhach’s plantations.

12.3 Frequently the three core elements reflect a ‘banding’ to the landscape, which affords

a stepped appearance to the glen sides. This is emphasised or diminished dependant on season and the colour and extent of the deciduous tree cover which characterises the lower slopes of the Trossachs.

12.4 From all road approaches to the Trossachs’ core (but not the water-borne

approaches on Loch Katrine) the alpine-like profile of the upper reaches of Ben Venue suggests a mountain of greater stature and challenge than its actual height. It is, nevertheless, the centrepiece of the Trossachs and guards the narrow entrance to the beauty of Loch Katrine and the expanse of Highlands beyond.

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12.5 The five main water bodies of

the Trossachs are essential components of the overall blend, yet each has its own distinct character. Only Achray can make claim to being a natural entity, with the others all shaped to varying degrees by water supply infrastructure.

12.6 Achray and Venachar Lochs are

easily accessible and offer a soft blend of tranquillity and relief from treed enclosure as they shelter within their lush framing of broad-leaved woodland. Glen Finglas reservoir, hidden behind the tight and wooded entrance to the glen and separated by a higher relief than the other Lochs provides the setting for the north-eastern boundary of the NSA and exudes peacefulness and isolation, belying its accessibility and artificial nature.

12.7 Loch Drunkie hides within coniferous plantations with only hints of a broad-leaved

woodland frame softening its edges. However its setting has gently sloping woodlands, long interlocking fingers of land, water, grassland and marsh all of which blend to form a tranquil place, sheltered from the winds of the larger lochs and glens, and constantly enticing the viewer to discover the next turn of path or track.

12.8 Loch Katrine is perceived as the queen of the Trossachs. Dominated by Ben Venue,

it offers the viewer both intimate close vistas of inlet and dense woodland, hinting at its depth, and yet also the chance of further travel beyond the comfort of the Trossachs and into the openness of the glens beyond.

12.9 The weather is highly influential in setting the mood in the Trossachs. The

water surfaces of the Lochs can be still, glasslike and reflective, perfectly setting off the woodlands and hillsides above, lulling the viewer into a sense of deep tranquillity and Scottish idyll and a wondering of what might lie beneath. Yet the ever-changing winds, channelled and sheltered by relief and woodland, can create a myriad of changes to colour and movement, at once changing the mood from sheltered warmth and tranquillity to darker melancholy.

12.10 The heavily wooded lower slopes of the Trossachs vary considerably in their

character and contribution to the scenery. Broadleaved woodland is extensive and broadleaved trees line the edges of the plantations, but large areas of the NSA are covered by coniferous plantation. The contribution that these relatively recent forests make to the wider scenery varies. Where the plantations’ edges have been managed and shaped to ‘dissolve’ as they give way to open hillside, such as in Glen Finglas, or where they blend seamlessly with indigenous broad-leaved birch, oak and beech woods, their contribution to scenic quality is considerable. In other areas, notably around the Duke’s Pass and Gleann Riabhach, edges to the forest are harsh and straight, diminishing the naturalness and romance of the scenery and the sense of a wild or ancient landscape. Felling the Trossach’s plantations has resulted in significant changes to character.

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12.11 This is a generally quiet landscape except for the murmuring burns and passing road traffic. Built development is sparse.

12.12 The importance of the Trossachs in part lies in the way that it occupies a small area

that is widely considered to define the transition from settled, pastoral lowland Scotland to the more rugged upland of the Highland glens and lochs. It offers the first hint of the ‘wilder’ lands north and west, but offers a far safer, accessible and concentrated experience than the lands beyond. This ‘potted’ classic highland scenery is occasionally spectacular and generally regarded as very attractive and comforting. It is widely acknowledged to be quintessential Scotland, accessible to the urban areas of the central lowlands. It is at once a gateway to the Highlands, and also a goal, beyond which many will choose not to venture, instead sampling this inviting Scottish idyll. Its accessibility is in part its strength as it plays an important role in national identity.

12.13 Fiona Leney encapsulated the essence of the Trossachs special qualities:

“Although the terrain is extremely broken, the tree cover and quiet water bring a gentleness to the rugged landscape. Compared with the adjacent lowlands, the area is wild and rugged, yet compared with the northern Highlands, its small scale and dense tree cover reduce its grandeur, though contributing to variety and beauty. For many people the scenery …. epitomises the landscape of Scotland.” (Leney, 1973).

12.14 Travelling through the Trossachs provides a series of changing vistas,

characterised by views looking down the expanse of Loch Katrine to the mass of Ben Venue, or glimpsing loch or hillside through gaps in the trees, or turning to discover surprise views as the woodland gives way to open moorland. The woodlands are intimately enclosed, sheltered, quiet, still landscapes contrasting with open, exposed, hills, from which 360 degree panoramic views of the NSA and far beyond may be enjoyed, for example, from the summit of Ben Venue.

12.15 As already hinted above, most of the Trossachs lochs are the result of 19th

century engineering projects to provide water to the Glasgow conurbation and hydro electric power. Loch Katrine was dammed in 1859, at its eastern end, and its popularity now owes much to the presence of the last steam driven passenger vessel operating in Britain, fittingly named the Steam Ship Sir Walter Scott. Many writers, poets and artists have been drawn to the romantic shores of Katrine, including William and Dorothy Wordsworth, Samuel Coleridge, James Hogg and John Ruskin. But it was the publishing of Sir Walter Scott’s romantic poem ‘Lady of the Lake’ in 1810 and ‘Rob Roy’ in 1817 that brought fame and popularity to the scenery of the area, establishing the Trossachs as a major tourist attraction, perhaps the epitome of the romantic highland landscape.

12.16 In his poem ‘Lady of the Lake’, which refers to Loch Katrine, Scott wrote: “So wondrous wild, the whole might seem The scenery of a fairy dream.”

And specifically about Loch Katrine he wrote: “Where, gleaming with the setting sun, One burnished sheet of living gold, Loch Katrine lay beneath him roll’d In all her length far winding lay, With promontory, creek and bay, And islands that, empurpled bright,

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Floated amid a livelier light, And mountains, that like giants stand, To sentinel enchanted land.” 12.17 In his novel ‘Rob Roy’, Scott wrote of the tales of Rob Roy MacGregor and the

‘children of the mist’, referring to his followers the Clan MacGregor who lived amidst the wild hills. Rob Roy was born in Glen Gyle at the western end of Loch Katrine and is buried near by. The famous Duke’s Pass is named after Rob Roy’s arch rival, the Duke of Montrose. The routes once followed by Rob Roy’s cattle drovers and the horse-drawn carriages of 19th Century tourists, have become the main arteries, which now carry modern traffic over Duke’s Pass. The Trossachs Trail is a signposted car tour that takes drivers north from Aberfoyle and over the Dukes Pass to take in the spectacular views of an area described as ‘the highlands in miniature’.

12.18 Bordering the NSA to the north, Glen Finglas was one of the more popular of the

royal hunting forests, with many Kings and Scottish Earls hunting there between the early 1300’s and the 1700’s. Many veteran trees still remain. Queen Victoria visited the area on many occasions and had a holiday house built overlooking Loch Katrine.

12.19 The special qualities that combine to make the Trossachs NSA of national

importance do not generally extend beyond the boundaries.

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13. THE SPECIAL QUALITIES OF UPPER TWEEDDALE NATIONAL SCENIC AREA

13.1 Upper Tweeddale is a NSA undoubtedly designated for its rich diversity, prominent landforms combining with rivers, woods and moorlands, to produce a ‘pleasing physiography with varied land use’ and ‘scenery of great charm and soft beauty’ (Countryside Commission for Scotland 1978). The NSA is distinguished by being, physically, the most sharply defined, densely wooded valleys with the higher, steeper, darker rather more rugged and wilder surrounding hills providing greater enclosure compared to the wider, gentler, more open valleys elsewhere in this part of the Scottish Borders.

13.2 The valley profiles are typically flat bottomed, often narrow, shallow ‘V’ shaped,

green, pastoral valleys with the Tweed flowing smoothly down the middle of a narrow floodplain. The valleys have even slopes steepening as they rise to scree-strewn ridges or rolling, rounded wooded hills with a backdrop of interlocking moorland slopes or high, rolling moorland hill massifs.

13.3 Sometimes there are wider, flat-bottomed, green pastoral valleys with the river on

one side of the valley floor eating away at the hillfoot below a precipitously steep, rocky edge to the high moorland massif. The valley floors widen at the confluences of the Tweed with the Holm, Manor and Lyne Waters which run as small rivers or large burns, giving views up the tributary glens.

13.4 Everywhere across the valleys are coniferous or mixed plantations, mature

broadleaved trees, groups of trees around steadings and houses, large billowing crowns of trees marking the sinuous line of the otherwise often inconspicuous rivers and burns crossed by distinctive but disused railway bridges and old stone arched or modern flat road bridges. In several places, small designed landscapes with a strong parkland ambience enrich the variety of woodlands and trees.

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13.5 In contrast to the sinuous line of

the river, picked out by mature riparian trees, the improved grasslands are laid out in large, regular, geometrically-shaped, flat or gently sloping fields, divided by straight stone dykes or occasional fences and hedges. The field pattern is locally emphasised by mature shelterbelts.

13.6 Buildings comprise steadings,

most of which are compact and traditional in style, splendid houses of Victorian ‘baronial’ architecture, lodges and cottages strung along the roads as they wind through the valleys. The predominant building materials are a distinctive, mellow grey stone and slate, or contrasting white rendering with slate.

13.7 There are no lakes, ponds or waterfalls but the rivers and burns are clean and fast-

flowing over pebbly, boulder-strewn or sandy and gravelly beds with natural weirs and riffles. In places the Tweed is wider and flows more sedately with a smooth surface that reflects the sky or clouds, and trees and buildings close by. The sounds of the river are complemented by those of grazing animals, insects and wading birds; birdsong is seasonally ubiquitous in the valleys. Apart from the sounds and movement of traffic on the roads that pass down the dales, the valleys are calm, quiet, still, tranquil landscapes with occasional agricultural activity or sometimes an angler or walker.

13.8 The valleys are varied, locally diverse or complex, safe, inviting, interesting,

settled landscapes with innumerable remnants and reminders of the historic past scattered throughout the dales. The many towers, castles, sheepfolds, stone and hut circles, standing stones, cultivation terraces, ancient settlements, cairns and forts emphasise the historical continuity of settlement and timelessness of the valleys. The forts are often located atop conspicuous promontories which offered commanding fortification sites and now the best vantage points to enjoy the scenery.

13.9 The intimate, sheltered valleys are tightly enclosed by wooded or open moorland

slopes along the flanks of the dales, rising more steeply with elevation to either a gently undulating series of hill tops or a dale-long series of interlocking ridges, in turn often backed by a hill massif. The valleys are also invariably enclosed at each end, usually by massive humps of steep-sided, seemingly free-standing hills that block and guard the ends of the dales; the moorland on these hills sharpening the contrast with the rich pastoral fields and woods of the dales.

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13.10 A relatively short, sharp, steep scramble up bracken, heather or grassy moorland slopes will lift the walker to a peak with a 360 degree, panoramic view across the Southern Uplands. From here and other viewpoints above the valley floor and lower slopes, the sinuous line of the rivers and burns are more conspicuous. From the hill tops and ridges the view may be spectacular in its sun-lit clarity with deep summer purples, greens, browns, grey and gold, or blue and hazy, or covered in crisp, white snow, or misty, or darkly overcast, depending on season and weather. The tops of the hills are vast, open, exposed windswept, inspiring, exhilarating, inviting and rewarding landscapes. The NSA is distinguished by being the most densely wooded valleys with the higher, steeper, darker rather more rugged and wilder surrounding hills providing greater enclosure.

13.11 The enclosing hills appear as great

guardians of the valleys, their height and mass often appearing greater than they actually are because of the contrast with the valleys. From the tops of the hills and ridges, and especially from the few landmark summits such as Black Meldon (right), the views are panoramic, round 360 degrees, across a vast rolling hill mass covered in grass and heather moorland, with occasional bare rock and scree adding variety to the colours and textures of the varied hills which appear to recede endlessly to the horizon, way beyond the boundaries of the NSA. The hills are varied in their landform; there are interlocking lines of steep-sided ridges sweeping from the surrounding hill mass into the valleys, gently undulating or rolling, smooth, rounded, massive, bulky, steep-sided hills with stone-piled cairns visible from far away and mysterious, evocative names such as Hammer Knowe, Horse Hope Hill, Hundleshope Heights, Stob Law, Trahenna Hill and White Meldon.

13.12 These valleys and hills were the

chosen home of John Buchan, author of ‘The thirty-nine steps’, who described them in some of his work. The valleys have been photographed and painted by innumerable artists but perhaps the most enduring fame of Upper Tweeddale is that of its history as a great salmon river, epitomised today by the sight of an angler casting over the river from its grassy banks.

13.13 Equally inviting, the walker may

choose between the intimate shelter of the quiet, tranquil, wooded pastoral valleys and the short rewarding climb up the slopes to the welcoming tops with their exhilarating panoramas across the valleys and the hill massifs.

13.14 The special qualities that combine to make the Upper Tweeddale NSA of national

importance do not generally extend beyond the boundaries.

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REFERENCES Cairngorms National Park Authority, 2005. Review of the Special Qualities of the Cairngorms National Park. Cobham Resource Consultants, 1988. Effectiveness of Landscape Designations Report to CCS, Countryside Commission for Scotland. Colchester Borough Council, 2005. Review of Countryside Conservation Areas in Colchester Borough, report by Chris Blandford Associates. Council of Europe, accessed 2006. Criteria for the award of the European Diploma of Protected Areas at http:www.coe.int/t/e/Cultural Co-operation/Environment/Nature and biological diversity/Ecological networks/The European Diploma/06criteria.asp Council of Europe, accessed 2006. Exploratory Report on the European Landscape Convention ETS No. 176 at http://conventions.coe.int/Treaty/EN/Reports/html/176.htm Countryside Agency, 2002. CA23, AONB Management Plans: A Guide. Countryside Commission, 1995. CCP486, The Norfolk Coast Landscape: An Assessment of the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, The Significance of the Norfolk Coast Landscape. Countryside Commission for Scotland, 1970-1978. Various Committee reports, papers and commissioned research reports leading up to the designation of NSAs. Countryside Commission for Scotland, 1974. A Park System for Scotland. Countryside Commission for Scotland, 1978. Scotland’s Scenic Heritage. Countryside Council for Wales, 2003. Landscape Assessment and Decision Making Process LANDMAP see http://landmap.ccw.gov.uk/methodology/ Dartmoor National Park Authority, 2001. Dartmoor National Park Management Plan, Part 2 A vision for Dartmoor National Park. Doncaster Metropolitan Borough Council, 1994. Landscape Character Assessment of Doncaster Borough, report by David Tyldesley and Associates for Doncaster Metropolitan Borough Council. Dumfries and Galloway Council, 2002. East Stewartry Coast, National Scenic Area Management Strategy, Dumfries and Galloway Council. Dumfries and Galloway Council, 2002. Wester Ross National Scenic Area Revised Draft Management Strategy, The Highland Council. Hobhouse Committee, 1947. Command 7121, 1947, Report of the National Parks Committee, HMSO. Lake District National Park Authority, accessed 2006. Lake District National Park Management Plan, Section 2 Special Qualities of the Lake District National Park http://www.lake-district.gov.uk/index/understanding/specialqualities.htm Land Use Consultants, 1971. A Planning Classification of Scottish Landscape Resources, report to Countryside Commission for Scotland

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Leney, F., 1973. Essays on Landscape of Scotland unpublished report to Countryside Commission for Scotland Linton, D., 1968. The Assessment of Scenery as a National Resource, Scottish Geographical Magazine. Lithuanian Government, accessed 2006. Lithuanian National Parks at http://www.ktl.mii.lt/tourism/parks/aukstaitija.html and http://www.ktl.mii.lt/tourism/parks/dzukija.html Murray, W.H., 1962. Highland Landscape: a Survey National Trust for Scotland. National Trust for Scotland, 2003. Acquisitions and Disposals, Evaluation of Heritage Significance. Natural Heritage Services of Metsähallitus, accessed 2006. Finland’s National Parks, at http://virtual.finland.fi/netcomm/news/showarticle.asp?intNWSAID=25160 North York Moors National Park Authority, 2005. North York Moors National Park Management Plan, Appendix D Special Qualities of the North York Moors. Northumberland National Park Authority, 2005. Northumberland National Park Management Plan, Part One A very special place with very special qualities Office of the Deputy Prime Minister, 2005. Planning Policy Statement 7 Sustainable Development in Rural Areas. Parliamentary Select Committee on Scottish Affairs, 1972. Land Resource Use in Scotland. Peak District National Park Authority, 2002. Peak District National Park Management Plan 2002-2005, Section 4 Special Qualities, page 7. Pearsall, J. et al ed., 2001, The New Oxford Dictionary of English, Oxford University Press Ramsay Committee, 1945. Command 6631, National Parks, a Scottish Survey: Report of the Ramsay Committee, HMSO. Robinson, D.G., Ed 1970-75. The landscape evaluation research project, University of Manchester. Scottish Natural Heritage and Historic Scotland, 2005, Guidance on Local Landscape Designations, SNH Inverness United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO), accessed 2006. Convention Concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage, Bureau of the World Heritage Committee, 20th session, 24-29 June 1996, Report of the Expert Meeting on European Cultural Landscapes of Outstanding Universal Value http://whc.unesco.org/archive/europe7.htm United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO), accessed 2006. Convention Concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage, World Heritage Centre – The Criteria for Selection, Operational Guidelines 2005 at http://whc.unesco.org/en/criteria

76

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United States Department of the Interior, National Park Service, accessed 2006. Criteria for Parkland, National Significance at http://www.nps.gov/legacy/criteria.html University of Edinburgh, Department of Geography, 1971, report entitled “Leisure + Countryside = ”

77

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RESEARCH BIBLIOGRAPHY Accessed or read as part of the research but not referred to in the text Brecon Beacons National Park Authority, Brecon Beacons National Park Management Plan, 2002-2005, Chapter 3 Landscape and Special Qualities Chilterns Shadow Conservation Board, Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Management Strategy 2002-2007, Section 1.2 Special Landscape Qualities Countryside Agency, 2004, Board Paper AP04/36 The New Forest National Park Decision and the Implications for the South Downs Countryside Agency, Landscape Access and Recreation, 2005, Quality of Life Assessment, Quality of Life Capital, The What Matters and Why Matrix Countryside Commission for Scotland, 1987, A Landscape Strategy for Loch Rannoch and Glen Lyon NSA Dedham Vale and Stour Valley Joint Advisory Committee, Dedham Vale AONB and Stour Valley Management Strategy 2004-2009 Finland’s National Parks – Virtual Finland at http://virtual.finland.fi/netcomm/news/showarticle.asp?intNWSAID=25160 Forest of Bowland AONB, undated. Forest of Bowland Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Management Plan, Statement of Significance Geographia d’Europa: textos de suport, Landscape Conservation and Strategies at http://www.ub.es/medame/conspais.html The High Weald: Why it is outstanding at http://www.highweald.org/text.asp?PageId=6 Howardian Hills AONB, 2004. Howardian Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Management Plan, 2004, pages 19 - 20 International Centre for Protected Landscapes (ICPL) useful links at http://www.protected-landscapes.org/links.html Mendip Hills AONB, accessed 2006. Mendip Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Management Plan, at http://www.mendiphillsaonb.org.uk National Trust for Scotland, 2002, Property Statements, Revised Guidelines Norfolk and Suffolk Broads Authority, 2004, Broads Plan 2006, Page 4 Special Features Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority, Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Management Plan, 2003-2007, page 11 Scottish Executive Rural Group, 2006, Paper 2006/2 Enhancing Our Care of Scotland’s Landscapes, A Consultation Paper Scottish Natural Heritage, 1998, National Parks for Scotland, A Consultation Paper Scottish Natural Heritage, 1998, National Scenic Areas, A Consultation Paper

78

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Scottish Natural Heritage, 1999 National Scenic Areas, SNH’s Advice to Government Scottish Natural Heritage, 2003, Scotland’s Future Landscapes, Encouraging a Wider Debate Sissons, J.B., 1967. The Evolution of Scotland’s Scenery, Oliver and Boyd. Suffolk Coast and Heaths Partnership, 2002, Suffolk Coast and Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Management Strategy, page 24 Statement of Significance Surrey County Council, Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Management Plan, section 2 Statement of Significance Tamar Valley AONB, accessed 2006. Tamar Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Management Plan, 2004 – 2009, pages 17-23 http://www.countryside.gov.uk/LAR/Landscape/DL/national_parks http://www.countryside.gov.uk/LAR/Landscape/DL/new_designations/newforest http://www.countryside.gov.uk/LAR/Landscape/DL/new_designations/southdowns http://www.countryside.gov.uk/LAR/Who/pressCentre/new_forest_order.asp http://www.countryside.gov.uk/LAR/Who/pressCentre/pressrelease_41_2003.asp http://www.moors.uk.net/content.php?nID=6 – What makes this a special place? North York Moors National Park http://www.nationalparks.gov.uk/anpa_core/work_of_the_parks/understanding_and_enjoyment – Promoting understanding and enjoyment of the special qualities of the national parks Wye Valley AONB, accessed 2006. Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Management Plan, 2004 – 2009 section 3, State of the AONB Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority, 2000. Today and Tomorrow 2000-2005, The Yorkshire Dales National Park Management Plan, page 2 The Yorkshire Dales National Park: A Special Place http://www.yorkshiredales.org.uk/index/learning/special_qualities.htm

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APPENDICES 1. FIELDWORK OUTPUTS ASSYNT - COIGACH NATIONAL SCENIC AREA 2. FIELDWORK OUTPUTS BEN NEVIS & GLEN COE NATIONAL SCENIC AREA 3. FIELDWORK OUTPUTS KNAPDALE NATIONAL SCENIC AREA 4. FIELDWORK OUTPUTS THE TROSSACHS NATIONAL SCENIC AREA 5. FIELDWORK OUTPUTS UPPER TWEEDDALE NATIONAL SCENIC AREA 6. RECOMMENDED FIELDSHEETS FOR USE IN FIELDWORK

80

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A

PPEN

DIX

1

FI

ELD

WO

RK

OU

TPU

TS

ASS

YNT

- CO

IGA

CH

NA

TIO

NA

L SC

ENIC

AR

EA

81

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Ass

ynt -

Coi

gach

NSA

– V

iew

scap

e: W

est a

nd S

outh

ove

r Bad

call

Bay

Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e A

tran

sitio

n fro

m la

nd to

ope

n se

a, b

ut o

ne w

here

the

chan

ge is

gra

dual

due

to th

e pr

esen

ce o

f man

y is

land

s an

d is

lets

bet

wee

n th

e tw

o. L

andf

orm

and

cov

er to

the

mai

nlan

d is

of a

coa

stal

cno

can,

refle

cted

by

the

form

of

the

low

rock

y is

land

s in

the

bay.

Th

e m

ainl

and

slop

es

stea

dily

to th

e se

a, b

ut in

a b

roke

n an

d ru

gged

form

ty

pica

l of A

ssyn

t - C

oiga

ch’s

cno

can

tract

s. I

t is

char

acte

rised

by

heat

her a

nd g

rass

moo

rland

ve

geta

tion,

with

ver

y sp

arse

ly s

catte

red

smal

l shr

ubs

and

trees

. The

land

cov

er m

osai

c is

furth

er c

ompr

ised

of

scat

tere

d ba

re ro

cks

and

outc

rop

and

som

e w

et s

edge

. D

espi

te th

e tra

nsiti

on fr

om la

nd to

sea

, the

re is

littl

e in

th

e w

ay o

f bea

ch, s

and

or s

hing

le. T

idal

rang

e ap

pear

s na

rrow

and

rock

y an

d ch

arac

teris

ed b

y da

rk li

nes

of

seaw

eed

and

inte

r-tid

al o

rgan

ism

s.

The

wat

ersc

ape

is a

pro

min

ent,

but i

s pe

rhap

s su

rpris

ingl

y no

t the

dom

inan

t ele

men

t of t

he v

iew

shed

. La

nd a

nd w

ater

are

rela

tivel

y ev

enly

pre

sent

in th

e vi

ewsh

ed,

Land

and

wat

er c

halle

nge

for d

omin

ance

with

in th

e tra

nsiti

on

from

one

to th

e ot

her.

With

the

bay’

s w

ater

s, c

oves

and

isla

nds

vyin

g qu

ite e

venl

y fo

r sup

erio

rity,

par

ticul

arly

whe

n on

e ap

proa

ches

tow

ards

sea

leve

l and

the

vist

a to

sea

is o

ne w

here

th

e is

land

s se

em to

form

a n

etw

ork

of g

iant

ste

ppin

g st

ones

af

ford

ing

acce

ss o

n fo

ot o

ut to

sea

far f

urth

er th

an is

the

actu

ality

. It

sugg

ests

a p

atch

wor

k of

wat

er a

nd la

nd.

The

horiz

ons

are

gene

rally

low

, with

a m

ore

horiz

onta

l em

phas

is a

nd a

bsen

ce o

f ste

ep s

lope

s or

har

sh p

rofil

e. T

he

land

is h

owev

er fa

r fro

m e

ven,

and

with

in th

is lo

w -l

ying

coa

stal

fri

nge

the

surfa

ce is

dis

tinct

ly u

ndul

atin

g an

d at

tim

es b

roke

n.

This

is a

land

scap

e of

an

open

med

ium

sca

le, w

here

des

pite

th

e pr

oxim

ity to

ope

n oc

ean,

the

horiz

ons

are

inte

rrupt

ed b

y is

land

s, s

ervi

ng to

dilu

te th

e se

nse

of b

eing

at t

he la

nd’s

end

. It

is h

owev

er a

rem

ote

land

scap

e, w

ith v

ery

low

-key

act

ivity

, wel

l hi

dden

bey

ond

deep

ly u

ndul

atin

g cn

ocan

and

the

lifel

ine

of th

e A

894.

It i

s se

clud

ed, a

lmos

t hid

den.

The

mix

of w

ater

and

land

cr

eate

s an

intri

cate

land

scap

e w

ith m

any

com

plex

sm

all s

cale

va

riatio

n, b

ut it

s ba

sic

com

pone

nts

rem

ain

sim

ple.

Rem

ote,

alm

ost s

ecre

t, qu

iet a

nd c

alm

ing,

Bad

call

Bay

can

pres

ent a

ver

y pe

acef

ul s

cene

, bel

ying

the

hars

hnes

s of

the

coas

tal e

nviro

nmen

t, w

ave,

win

d an

d tid

al a

ssau

lt on

the

land

. It

at o

nce

offe

rs s

helte

r and

hav

en fr

om th

e op

en

ocea

n, b

ut a

lso

offe

rs ro

utes

out

thro

ugh

the

isla

nds

to o

cean

wat

ers

whi

ch m

ust b

e en

dure

d to

har

vest

th

e se

as.

It is

a tr

ansi

tiona

l zon

e be

twee

n la

nd a

nd

sea,

but

als

o be

twee

n sa

fety

and

risk

, and

hun

ger o

r bo

unty

. Th

e sh

elte

r of t

he b

ay is

nev

er fu

lly

sepa

rate

d fro

m th

e da

nger

or t

hrea

t of t

he e

lem

ents

be

yond

. It

is th

e in

timac

y of

the

land

scap

e ju

xtap

osed

with

the

pres

ence

of w

ild s

eas

whi

ch a

fford

s th

is v

iew

scap

e its

gre

ates

t val

ue.

It is

not

spe

ctac

ular

but

is

extre

mel

y al

lurin

g, te

mpt

ing

the

trave

ller t

o lin

ger a

nd

find

peac

e w

ithin

a m

ultit

ude

of c

oves

or r

ocky

sh

elte

r. A

t the

sam

e tim

e th

e fis

hing

ves

sels

whi

ch

occa

sion

ally

ven

ture

from

the

bay’

s sh

elte

r to

mor

e op

en w

ater

s re

min

d on

e of

the

dang

er e

ver p

rese

nt

beyo

nd.

82

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Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e H

uman

influ

ence

is a

ppar

ent b

ut fa

r fro

m s

igni

fican

t.

The

shor

elin

e to

the

head

of t

he s

ea lo

ch is

occ

upie

d by

th

e sm

all s

mat

terin

g of

fish

erm

en’s

cot

tage

s an

d fis

hing

in

frast

ruct

ure

of L

ower

Bad

call,

incl

udin

g la

unch

slip

, sm

all b

reak

wat

er a

nd s

tora

ge s

heds

. H

owev

er th

ese

do

not d

omin

ate

the

land

scap

e an

d ag

ain

sugg

est a

toug

h or

eve

n su

bsis

tenc

e ex

iste

nce.

Upp

er B

adca

ll is

a

colle

ctio

n of

sm

all c

otta

ges

and

crof

tings

, som

e in

use

, so

me

sugg

estin

g se

ason

al o

ccup

atio

n an

d ot

hers

di

spla

ying

ser

ious

neg

lect

or a

band

onm

ent.

Her

e th

ere

is e

vide

nce

of fi

eld

encl

osur

e an

d w

orki

ng o

f the

land

, of

ferin

g so

me

cont

rast

to th

e ha

rsh

cnoc

an h

abita

ts th

at

abou

nd.

Thes

e in

fluen

ces

sugg

est a

his

toric

wor

king

of

the

land

mor

e ap

pare

nt th

an in

mos

t of t

he re

st o

f the

N

SA

.

The

wea

ther

and

ski

es a

re m

ore

influ

entia

l her

e as

the

horiz

on

is w

ide

and

the

wat

ers

of th

e se

a an

d lo

chs

serv

e to

mirr

or a

nd

refle

ct c

hang

ing

light

and

add

mov

emen

t to

the

scen

e.

The

tidal

line

s of

sea

wee

d an

d w

et a

nd d

ry ro

ck p

rese

nt a

st

rong

if ir

regu

lar l

inea

r fea

ture

to th

e la

ndsc

ape.

Th

e ve

geta

tion

to th

e is

land

s va

ries

grea

tly d

epen

dent

on

thei

r re

lativ

e ex

posu

re, f

rom

bar

ren

to lo

w b

ut lu

sh d

ense

folia

ge o

f sh

rub

and

gras

ses.

83

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Ass

ynt -

Coi

gach

NSA

– V

iew

scap

e: W

est F

ace

of B

en M

ore

Ass

ynt

O

bjec

tive

Ana

lysi

s Vi

sual

Ana

lysi

s Pe

rson

al R

espo

nse

A v

ast o

pen

land

scap

e ris

ing

grad

ually

from

rolli

ng

smoo

th m

oorla

nds

at th

e sh

ore

of L

och

Ass

ynt t

o th

e hi

ghes

t poi

nt in

the

NS

A.

The

mou

ntai

n an

d its

sis

ter

Con

ival

is a

fine

exa

mpl

e of

the

‘lone

mou

ntai

n’

char

acte

ristic

of t

he A

ssyn

t - C

oiga

ch a

rea.

Th

e to

pogr

aphy

bui

lds

grad

ually

, thr

ough

sm

ooth

m

oorla

nd to

bou

lder

stre

wn

open

moo

r to

stee

p lim

esto

ne

scre

e fa

ns ri

sing

to a

bol

d ba

rren

sum

mit

offe

ring

expa

nsiv

e vi

ews

in a

ll di

rect

ions

. Th

e re

lief g

radu

ally

in

crea

ses

in g

radi

ent,

less

dra

mat

ical

ly th

an o

ther

lone

m

ount

ains

with

in th

e ar

ea, b

ut s

till p

rodu

cing

a

spec

tacu

lar b

are

rock

face

of g

reat

ste

epne

ss ju

st b

elow

th

e m

ore

roun

ded

sum

mit

plat

eau.

D

eep

river

gill

s pe

riodi

cally

sca

r the

gen

tly u

ndul

atin

g su

rface

of t

he g

radu

ally

risi

ng g

rass

and

hea

ther

m

oorla

nd, r

evea

ling

ener

getic

mou

ntai

n st

ream

s.

This

is a

mon

umen

tally

sca

led

land

scap

e, p

artic

ular

ly

whe

n th

e w

eath

er a

fford

s di

stan

t vie

ws.

How

ever

, apa

rt fro

m th

e m

ore

dist

ant v

iew

s fro

m th

e fa

ce o

f the

m

ount

ain,

the

land

scap

e co

mpo

sitio

n is

one

of e

asy

sim

plic

ity.

Gra

dual

ly ri

sing

, wid

e op

en u

ndul

atin

g sm

ooth

m

oorla

nds,

few

sur

face

feat

ures

, ris

e to

ste

ep a

nd ro

cky

coni

cal b

uttre

ss a

nd s

umm

it. T

he d

istin

ct ri

dgel

ine

of

Bein

n an

Fhu

rain

lead

s in

to th

e su

mm

it ou

t of t

he s

moo

th

mid

dle

slop

es fr

om th

e no

rth a

nd p

rese

nts

few

opt

ions

for

rout

es to

war

ds th

e su

mm

it. T

he fa

ce o

f Con

ival

, the

B

en’s

clo

se n

eigh

bour

offe

rs a

sta

rk, b

arre

n an

d m

assi

ve

face

on

appr

oach

from

Inch

nada

mph

and

the

wes

t. Th

e m

ass

of th

e B

en is

suc

h th

at it

s pr

ofile

is le

ss

dist

inct

ive

than

the

mou

ntai

ns o

f Coi

gach

whi

ch a

re

clea

rly v

isib

le to

the

sout

h w

est.

How

ever

its

less

re

cogn

isab

le fo

rm is

com

pens

ated

for t

hrou

gh s

heer

m

ass

and

pres

ence

. Th

e m

ass

of th

e m

ount

ain

and

its

undi

lute

d hi

nter

land

of m

oor a

re p

erha

ps it

s m

ost d

efin

ing

char

acte

ristic

.

This

is a

stu

nnin

g la

ndsc

ape

of g

reat

sca

le b

ut m

odes

t si

mpl

icity

. Its

rock

y su

mm

it an

d sc

reed

app

roac

hes

add

an e

lem

ent o

f con

side

rabl

e dr

ama

and

offe

r stre

nuou

s ch

alle

nge

and

adve

ntur

e. T

he B

en is

kno

w to

hav

e ta

ken

man

y liv

es o

f tho

se le

ss p

repa

red

than

nec

essa

ry to

ch

alle

nge

its m

ight

, or s

impl

y un

fortu

nate

in fe

arso

me,

un

forg

ivin

g te

rrain

. Th

is is

in th

e m

ind

of a

ll w

ho

expe

rienc

e its

ele

vatio

n an

d ex

posu

re o

f the

upp

er s

lope

s w

ith it

s br

oken

sto

ny g

roun

d.

The

abse

nce

of h

uman

influ

ence

ove

r suc

h m

assi

ve

tract

s of

land

affo

rd a

sen

se o

f wild

erne

ss, w

heth

er v

alid

in

stri

ctes

t sen

se o

r not

. Th

e po

tent

ial f

or th

e si

ghtin

g of

a

gold

en e

agle

kee

ps th

e vi

sito

r in

a pe

rpet

ual s

tate

of

antic

ipat

ion,

alth

ough

ofte

n to

no

avai

l. T

his

is th

e la

nd o

f ea

gles

nev

erth

eles

s an

d th

e vi

sito

r may

feel

a s

ense

of

insi

gnifi

canc

e in

the

gran

deur

of t

he la

ndsc

ape.

84

Page 93: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e Th

e lim

esto

ne g

eolo

gy is

cle

arly

evi

dent

from

the

sign

ifica

nt p

rese

nce

of b

ould

ers

and

loos

e st

one,

but

als

o fro

m s

ink-

hole

s an

d dr

y st

ream

bed

s, c

hara

cter

istic

of t

he

unde

rlyin

g ge

olog

y at

this

poi

nt.

Man

’s e

vide

nce,

apa

rt fro

m th

e w

ell t

rodd

en –

and

less

w

ell t

rodd

en, m

ount

ain

path

s, is

neg

ligib

le.

On

risin

g ou

t of

the

Gle

ann

Dub

h gi

ll, th

e w

ildne

ss o

f the

land

scap

e be

com

es d

omin

ant.

Scr

ee a

nd b

ould

ers

begi

n to

do

min

ate

and

the

mas

s an

d el

evat

ion

of th

e B

en m

ore

mar

ked.

Th

e ro

lling

moo

rland

low

er a

nd m

iddl

e sl

opes

whi

ch le

ad

to th

e su

mm

it ho

st le

ss s

urfa

ce w

ater

than

els

ewhe

re in

th

e ar

ea.

Loch

ans

are

mor

e di

sper

sed,

with

onl

y Lo

ch

Mha

olac

h-co

ire p

rom

inen

t in

the

land

scap

e in

its

star

k co

ntra

st to

the

moo

rland

in w

hich

it s

its.

Col

our i

s ty

pica

lly m

uted

gre

en a

nd b

row

n, b

ut w

ith

sign

ifica

nt c

ontra

st to

the

light

gre

y of

the

boul

ders

, scr

ee

and

expo

sed

stra

ta o

f the

sum

mits

. N

oise

and

mov

emen

t is

min

imal

apa

rt fro

m th

e w

ind,

whi

ch w

ill o

ften

be fi

erce

, an

d th

e gu

rgle

of t

he ri

ver T

ralig

ill.

Red

dee

r sta

ke c

laim

to th

e rid

ge-to

ps, w

ith s

tags

st

andi

ng in

pro

min

ent g

uard

of t

heir

herd

. Th

is to

o is

the

land

of t

he G

olde

n E

agle

, alth

ough

a g

limps

e of

the

mos

t m

ajes

tic o

f Brit

ish

bird

s is

sel

dom

affo

rded

. B

ut it

is a

lso

the

delic

acy

of th

e m

icro

flor

a, a

lpin

es a

nd m

osse

s w

hich

of

fer g

reat

inte

rest

and

min

ute

beau

ty to

the

wal

ker.

B

irdso

ng o

n th

e lo

wer

slo

pes,

par

ticul

arly

cuc

koo

and

ston

echa

t pro

vide

s a

wel

com

e so

undt

rack

in th

e ea

rly

sum

mer

mon

ths.

Des

pite

its

pote

ntia

l for

har

m a

nd m

isad

vent

ure

the

wes

tern

app

roac

hes

to B

en M

ore

Ass

ynt a

lso

offe

r re

mot

enes

s, tr

anqu

illity

and

a p

eace

fuln

ess

seld

om

expe

rienc

ed e

ven

in o

ther

are

as o

f upl

and

Brita

in.

The

Ben

hid

es it

s da

nger

s w

hils

t alw

ays

beck

onin

g th

e vi

sito

r to

a re

turn

vis

it.

85

Page 94: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Ass

ynt -

Coi

gach

NSA

– V

iew

poin

t: to

Sou

th E

ast o

ver K

yles

ku B

ridge

Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e A

land

scap

e of

hig

h m

ount

ain

peak

s an

d rid

ges,

falli

ng

thro

ugh

hills

ide

and

cliff

to d

eepw

ater

sea

loch

with

in lo

ng

encl

osed

fjor

d lik

e gl

ens.

Th

e vi

ewpo

int o

ffer e

xten

sive

vie

ws

of th

e tra

nsiti

on fr

om

the

expo

sed

uppe

r sum

mits

of t

he n

orth

ern

NS

A, t

hrou

gh

mon

tain

e an

d m

oorla

nd g

roun

d-co

ver,

bare

rock

out

crop

an

d sm

all p

ocke

ts o

f cul

tivat

ed o

r affo

rest

ed a

reas

to

war

ds th

e w

ater

scap

e of

the

exte

nsiv

e, d

oubl

e va

lleys

of

Loc

h G

lend

hu a

nd L

och

Gle

ncou

l. T

he c

ontra

st in

gr

ound

cov

er a

nd la

ndfo

rm o

ffers

a p

artic

ular

ly ‘b

usy’

la

ndsc

ape

desp

ite it

s di

stin

ctiv

e hi

ghla

nd c

hara

cter

istic

s.

Ther

e is

a d

istin

ctiv

e pa

ttern

of i

nter

lock

ing

mou

ntai

n rid

ge h

oriz

ons,

slo

ping

moo

rland

, and

sea

loch

who

se

emph

asis

cha

nges

from

sha

llow

thro

ugh

to s

teep

-sid

ed

and

then

thro

ugh

to th

e ve

rtica

l as

the

eye

is d

raw

n de

eper

onw

ards

and

upw

ards

. K

yles

ku ro

ad b

ridge

is a

pro

min

ent e

ngin

eere

d fe

atur

e w

hich

dra

ws

the

eye

desp

ite th

e gr

ande

ur o

f the

la

ndsc

ape.

The

mai

n A

894

road

cut

s th

roug

h th

e he

art o

f th

e vi

ewsc

ape

but i

s ne

ver d

omin

ant a

way

from

the

brid

ge.

Hum

an h

abita

tion

is v

ery

spar

se w

ith v

ery

spor

adic

sm

all c

once

ntra

tions

of w

hite

was

hed

fishe

rmen

’s c

otta

ges

by th

e lo

ch s

ide.

It is

with

out q

uest

ion

a re

mot

e, ru

gged

and

ble

ak

land

scap

e, b

ut h

ugel

y im

pres

sive

as

a co

nseq

uenc

e.

This

is a

vas

t lan

dsca

pe, d

espi

te th

e re

lativ

e en

clos

ure

of

the

view

scap

e. I

t com

bine

s el

emen

ts o

f exp

osur

e,

open

ness

with

‘mic

rosc

apes

’ of s

helte

r and

sec

lusi

on

with

in th

e br

oken

topo

grap

hy o

f the

loch

sid

es. T

he

view

scap

e is

at o

nce

both

sim

ple

and

com

plex

. It

co

mpr

ises

sev

eral

diff

eren

t ele

men

ts o

f gro

und

cove

r and

la

nd fo

rm, y

et th

ey m

erge

into

a p

erfe

ctly

coh

eren

t hi

ghla

nd s

cene

of t

he u

tmos

t gra

ndeu

r. It

is a

dee

p la

ndsc

apes

whi

ch d

raw

s th

e ey

e al

ong

the

fjord

s an

d ac

ross

the

encl

osin

g rid

ge a

nd m

ount

ain

horiz

on.

The

land

scap

e is

com

plex

by

land

form

but

rela

tivel

y si

mpl

e in

term

s of

land

-cov

er a

nd v

eget

atio

n.

Con

sequ

ently

the

colo

urs

are

harm

onio

us b

ut m

uted

, al

thou

gh th

e w

eath

er a

nd s

easo

n w

ill c

onsi

dera

bly

influ

ence

to w

hat d

egre

e. A

part

from

the

chan

ging

impa

ct

of th

e w

ater

sur

face

from

brig

ht re

flect

ive

to d

ark

and

cold

, the

abu

ndan

ce o

f flo

wer

ing

gors

e on

som

e lo

wer

sl

opes

add

s un

typi

cal i

nten

sity

of c

olou

r and

war

mth

. Th

e sm

all p

lant

atio

ns o

f con

ifer a

re u

ntyp

ical

of t

he w

ider

la

ndsc

ape

and

serv

e to

pun

ctua

te it

rath

er c

hara

cter

ise

it.

The

vist

a us

ed fo

r the

vie

wsh

ed o

ffere

d its

elf w

ithou

t ne

ed fo

r sec

ond

anal

ysis

. Th

e op

enin

g ou

t of t

he tw

in

fjord

s of

Gle

ncou

l and

Gle

ndhu

bey

ond

the

narro

ws

of th

e K

yles

ku b

ridge

dem

and

that

the

trave

ller s

top

and

take

st

ock

of th

e la

ndsc

ape.

Th

is is

an

awes

ome,

‘hea

vyw

eigh

t’ la

ndsc

ape

whi

ch

stan

ds w

ith im

men

se p

ower

, gra

ndeu

r and

per

man

ence

. It

defie

s ta

min

g or

any

tole

ranc

e to

sig

nific

ant c

hang

e. I

t is

a la

ndsc

ape

whi

ch re

flect

s th

e m

assi

vene

ss o

f the

fo

rces

and

eon

s w

hich

form

ed it

. It

offe

rs c

halle

nge

and

adve

ntur

e, b

ut d

efie

s al

l but

the

mos

t pre

pare

d an

d re

silie

nt to

the

wild

est o

f nat

ural

forc

es B

ritai

n ca

n of

fer.

W

hils

t pea

cefu

l as

a fu

nctio

n of

its

rem

oten

ess,

this

is a

ve

ry w

ild la

ndsc

ape.

A

s th

e ey

e is

dra

wn

up th

e fjo

rd th

e S

tack

of G

lenc

oul

pres

ents

an

natu

ral b

ut u

nflin

chin

g ‘fu

ll st

op’ t

o th

e vi

sta

Her

e, h

uman

act

ivity

han

gs o

n ag

ains

t the

odd

s ra

ther

th

an th

rives

. Th

e ro

ad th

roug

h th

e vi

ewsc

ape

offe

rs a

pr

ecar

ious

life

line

to th

e fe

w p

eopl

e w

ho c

hose

to fo

rge

an e

xist

ence

in th

e fjo

rd. T

he b

ridge

offe

rs a

vis

ually

st

rikin

g ch

alle

nge

to th

e el

emen

tal f

orce

s ar

ound

it, b

ut

will

sur

ely

succ

umb

in ti

me

to n

atur

e’s

pow

er.

86

Page 95: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e Th

e in

fluen

ce o

f the

wea

ther

and

sky

scap

e on

the

view

scap

e is

con

side

rabl

e. T

he v

ertic

al e

leva

tion

of th

e to

ps a

nd th

e pr

oxim

ity to

the

north

Atla

ntic

wea

ther

sy

stem

s pr

esen

ts o

ften

heav

y co

ver o

f the

pea

ks a

nd a

br

oodi

ng b

lank

et o

f qui

ckly

mov

ing

clou

d co

ver a

cros

s an

d be

twee

n pe

aks.

The

win

d on

the

surfa

ce o

f the

loch

s af

ford

s a

frequ

ently

cha

ngin

g su

rface

app

eara

nce.

Th

e ov

eral

l im

pact

of t

he v

iew

scap

e on

the

obse

rver

is

one

of a

gre

at d

epth

and

ver

tical

cha

nge

and

a gr

adua

l tra

nsiti

on fr

om th

e fla

t of t

he w

ater

s su

rface

thro

ugh

to th

e im

pres

sive

and

pow

erfu

l ste

ep a

nd v

ertic

ally

sid

ed

high

land

mou

ntai

n pe

aks

and

ridge

s.

Mid

dle

and

near

dis

tanc

e vi

stas

con

sist

of m

oorla

nd a

nd

wat

ersc

ape

mos

aics

with

mul

tiple

hor

izon

s of

ferin

g gl

imps

es o

f loc

h an

d gl

en b

etw

een

and

acro

ss.

Her

e th

e la

ndfo

rm is

bro

ken

and

com

plex

, with

mul

tiple

gul

lies

and

mou

nds

and

parts

of t

he lo

ch s

ides

com

plic

ated

by

tidal

ro

ck o

utcr

ops

and

smal

l isl

ets.

Apa

rt fro

m th

e oc

casi

onal

sm

all p

lant

atio

n or

cot

tage

, the

land

use

is s

impl

e ro

ugh

graz

ing

acro

ss th

e cn

ocan

like

roug

h m

oorla

nd.

Mor

e di

stan

ce v

iew

s of

fer a

true

tast

e of

wild

, upl

and

Sco

tland

with

sw

eepi

ng b

ut b

roke

n m

oorla

nd s

wat

hes

mee

ting

stee

p, ro

cky

and

dram

atic

ally

pro

filed

pea

ks o

f B

einn

Aird

da

Loch

, Bei

nn U

idhe

, Sta

ck o

f Gle

ncou

l an

d th

e in

fam

ous

Qui

nag.

Th

e fjo

rd-li

ke to

pogr

aphy

, hig

h su

mm

its a

nd d

eep

wat

ers

mak

e fo

r a p

ower

ful l

ands

cape

whe

re th

e sk

ies

add

to th

e dr

ama

and

the

win

ds tr

oubl

e th

e lo

ch s

urfa

ce a

nd k

eep

vege

tatio

n to

all

but t

he to

ughe

st s

peci

es.

Evi

denc

e of

hum

an a

ctiv

ity is

spa

rse

apar

t fro

m th

e st

rikin

g K

yles

ku ro

ad b

ride

whi

ch in

trodu

ces

a st

rong

vi

sual

cou

nter

poin

t to

the

wild

ness

of t

he v

iew

scap

e.

Bec

ause

of t

he n

eed

to p

ass

into

this

land

scap

e vi

a hi

gh

pass

or r

emot

e si

nuou

s ro

ad th

e ar

ea a

fford

s a

feel

ing

of

isol

atio

n. T

his

vast

land

scap

e is

odd

ly a

hid

den

one

whi

ch re

quire

s re

lativ

ely

dete

rmin

ed e

xped

ition

to a

cces

s.

Eve

n in

ear

ly s

umm

er th

e lo

chs

rem

ind

one

that

the

pow

er o

f the

oce

an is

clo

se a

t han

d, a

nd th

eir o

bvio

us

dept

hs s

ugge

st a

n ic

y fin

ger o

f inf

luen

ce d

eep

into

the

mou

ntai

ns, c

halle

ngin

g th

eir s

uper

iorit

y in

the

land

scap

e..

87

Page 96: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Ass

ynt -

Coi

gach

NSA

– V

iew

scap

e: E

ast,

Sout

h an

d W

est f

rom

Sta

c Po

llaid

h

Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e St

ac P

olla

idh

is o

ne o

f a s

erie

s of

dis

tinct

ive

‘lone

m

ount

ains

’ with

in th

e A

ssyn

t - C

oiga

ch a

rea

and

draw

s vi

sito

rs to

bot

h w

onde

r at i

ts p

rofil

e an

d dr

ama

as w

ell a

s th

ose

who

wis

h to

con

quer

its

dece

ptiv

ely

atta

inab

le

heig

hts.

It s

tand

s pr

oud

with

in a

bro

ad m

ount

aino

us g

len

diss

ectin

g a

serie

s of

dra

mat

ic a

nd c

halle

ngin

g pe

aks,

ea

ch w

ith d

istin

ct p

rofil

e an

d id

entit

y. T

he g

ener

ally

line

ar

and

flat b

otto

med

gle

n, ru

ns s

outh

eas

t to

north

wes

t and

en

clos

es a

ser

ies

of lo

chs

and

loch

ans,

mos

t not

ably

Lo

ch L

urga

inn,

cre

atin

g a

wat

ersc

ape

thro

ugh

the

hear

t of

the

mou

ntai

ns.

The

com

plex

ser

ies

of la

rge

and

smal

l loc

hs a

nd lo

chan

s,

perh

aps

as a

con

sequ

ence

of t

he p

eat e

cosy

stem

s ar

ound

and

abo

ve a

ppea

r dar

k w

ithin

the

valle

y flo

or.

Thei

r sho

relin

es a

re c

ompl

ex in

sha

pe a

nd o

ften

prom

onto

ries

and

isla

nds

with

in th

em o

bscu

re th

eir s

cale

an

d ex

tent

as

unbr

oken

bod

ies

of w

ater

. Th

is il

lusi

on is

no

t rem

edie

d w

ithou

t ven

ture

to h

ighe

r slo

pes.

Th

e lo

wer

val

ley

side

s ar

e ge

ntly

slo

ping

but

this

soo

n gi

ves

way

to a

dra

mat

ic in

crea

se in

gra

dien

t, dr

awin

g th

e ey

e ac

ross

bot

h he

athe

r-cla

d an

d ba

re ro

cky

and

boul

der

stre

wn

slop

es to

soa

ring,

bar

ren

and

brok

en s

umm

its.

Hen

ce s

lope

pro

file

is g

ener

ally

con

cave

. Th

is is

a

clas

sica

lly p

rofil

ed g

laci

ated

val

ley.

This

is a

larg

e sc

ale

wild

land

scap

e w

ith v

irtua

lly n

o ev

iden

ce o

f on

goin

g la

nd u

se a

part

from

low

inte

nsity

re

crea

tiona

l fac

ilitie

s, s

uch

as fo

otpa

th m

anag

emen

t and

sm

all p

arki

ng fa

cilit

ies.

Th

ere

is g

reat

con

trast

with

in th

e gl

en d

espi

te it

s co

here

nce

as a

cla

ssic

hig

hlan

d se

tting

. Th

e va

lley

floor

is

ofte

n ra

ther

flat

and

dom

inat

ed b

y th

e lo

chs

and

loch

ans,

but

slo

pe a

ngle

s ch

ange

dra

mat

ical

ly to

pro

vide

a

sens

e of

enc

losu

re b

y th

e hi

gher

pea

ks.

Ther

e is

with

in

the

spac

e of

onl

y a

few

hun

dred

met

res

cont

rast

bet

wee

n th

e en

clos

ure

and

over

bear

ing

of th

e va

lley

floor

to th

e ex

posu

re a

nd o

peni

ng u

p of

dis

tant

vie

ws

from

the

Sta

c its

elf o

n an

y of

its

ofte

n hi

gher

nei

ghbo

ur p

eaks

. D

espi

te

this

con

trast

this

is h

owev

er a

coh

eren

t and

har

mon

ious

la

ndsc

ape.

Col

our i

s do

min

ated

by

the

mut

ed to

nes

of

peat

, gra

ssla

nd m

oss

and

heat

her o

ut o

f flo

wer

, but

the

light

gre

y of

the

unde

rlyin

g ge

olog

y, s

cree

and

bou

lder

fie

lds

mak

es a

sta

rk c

ontra

st to

the

vege

tatio

n co

ver o

f th

e va

lley

floor

and

nor

th s

outh

faci

ng s

lope

s. O

ften

a w

hite

and

refle

ctiv

e lic

hen

to e

xpos

ed ro

ck s

urfa

ces

and

the

min

eral

s th

emse

lves

affo

rd a

n al

mos

t sno

w li

ke

refle

ctiv

e, w

hite

app

eara

nce,

bel

ying

the

seas

on.

Stan

ding

abo

ve th

e va

lley

floor

, and

bel

ow th

e ro

cky

thru

sts

of th

e S

tac’

s pe

aks

and

pinn

acle

s of

fers

ex

hila

ratio

n, a

we,

and

cha

lleng

e. T

his

is a

spe

ctac

ular

m

ount

ain

in a

dra

mat

ic s

ettin

g. V

iew

s ov

er th

e su

rroun

ding

s re

veal

how

the

high

est p

eaks

occ

upy

thei

r ow

n pl

aces

abo

ve th

e lo

wer

, les

s ve

rtica

l und

ulat

ions

of

the

cnoc

an a

nd m

oorla

nd fr

om w

hich

they

thru

st

upw

ards

. Th

e gl

en d

raw

s th

e ey

e fro

m e

nd to

end

, and

at m

any

poin

ts d

eman

ds th

at th

e m

ajes

ty o

f the

pea

ks b

e ex

amin

ed.

Thes

e so

met

ime

sugg

est a

n im

pene

trabi

lity

to

whi

ch c

halle

nge

shou

ld b

e un

derta

ken

only

by

the

wel

l pr

epar

ed, e

xper

ienc

ed a

nd e

nerg

etic

wal

ker.

The

valle

y’s

side

s co

ntra

stin

g to

pogr

aphy

, with

dra

mat

ic

verti

cal p

inna

cle,

exp

osed

and

ext

ensi

ve o

pen

rock

y su

rface

s, th

roug

h to

scr

ee a

nd b

ould

er fi

eld

befo

re

calm

ing

into

the

rela

tive

safe

ty o

f the

flat

gle

n flo

or

shar

ply

rem

inds

the

onlo

oker

of t

he s

tatu

s of

geo

logi

cal

won

derla

nd th

at th

is a

rea

boas

ts.

The

cont

rast

in

geol

ogy,

eve

n to

the

laym

an is

obv

ious

from

one

sid

e of

th

e va

lley

to th

e ot

her a

nd fr

om th

e op

en c

oast

al p

lain

in

the

wes

t, th

roug

h its

hig

h w

alle

d tu

nnel

to o

pen

moo

rland

in

the

east

.

88

Page 97: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e G

roun

d co

ver a

lters

from

the

valle

y flo

or w

here

the

loch

an

d lo

chan

-sid

e ve

geta

tion

is p

eaty

hea

ther

and

tuss

ocky

gr

assl

and

with

sm

all,

scat

tere

d st

ands

of w

illow

and

birc

h hu

ggin

g th

e lo

wer

slo

pes.

As

the

slop

es ri

se th

e ve

geta

tion

cove

r is

pred

omin

antly

hea

ther

, mos

ses

and

cotto

n gr

ass

on a

rich

, wet

pea

t soi

l. W

illow

bus

hes

and

alde

r bec

omes

mor

e sp

arse

and

giv

e w

ay to

ope

n, s

teep

m

oorla

nd.

As

the

slop

es c

hang

e to

mou

ntai

n si

des

the

peat

bec

omes

thin

ner a

nd ro

ck s

trata

bec

omes

pr

omin

ent.

To

the

sout

hern

sid

e of

the

valle

y, a

cros

s th

e m

id a

nd u

pper

slo

pes

of B

einn

an

Eoin

the

dist

inct

ive

stria

ted

stra

ta b

ecom

es p

artic

ular

ly v

isib

le a

nd d

istin

ctiv

e.

Ther

e is

a c

onst

ant p

rese

nce

of m

ovin

g w

ater

on

the

low

er a

nd m

iddl

e sl

opes

, ofte

n fro

m b

urns

dee

ply

inci

sed

into

the

peat

, who

’s v

eget

atio

n ha

s al

l but

obs

cure

d th

e st

ream

s al

mos

t unt

il on

e st

ands

ove

r it.

To

the

low

er

slop

es th

ese

burn

s ar

e no

isy

and

ener

getic

mou

ntai

n st

ream

s w

here

the

valle

y flo

or tr

ees

som

etim

es e

xten

d up

war

ds a

long

the

wat

er c

ours

e lin

e.

Des

pite

the

gran

deur

of t

he w

hole

com

posi

tion

it is

the

rock

y su

mm

its o

f Sta

c P

olla

idh

and

the

peak

s of

cen

tral

Coi

gach

to th

e so

uth

whi

ch d

eman

d m

ost a

ttent

ion.

Th

ese

offe

r wild

, dra

mat

ic a

nd fo

rebo

ding

pro

file

and

elev

atio

n an

d cr

eate

a s

eem

ingl

y im

pene

trabl

e ba

rrier

to

the

sout

h an

d th

e re

lativ

e ha

vens

of A

rdm

air a

nd

Ulla

pool

. Th

e on

ly e

vide

nce

of m

an in

this

prim

eval

land

scap

e is

th

e si

nuou

s si

ngle

trac

k ro

ad a

nd te

leph

one

line

runn

ing

the

leng

th o

f the

gle

n to

the

open

cno

can

and

crof

ting

settl

emen

t of t

he R

ubha

-Mor

pen

insu

lar t

o th

e w

est.

Mov

emen

t in

the

land

scap

e is

app

aren

t fro

m b

oth

the

chan

ging

refle

ctio

ns a

nd s

urfa

ce p

atte

rns

of th

e lo

chs

and

loch

ans,

and

als

o fro

m th

e cl

ouds

whi

ch ‘s

cud’

ove

r the

cl

ose

horiz

ons,

ofte

n ob

scur

ing

and

then

reve

alin

g th

e pe

aks

them

selv

es.

The

nois

e fro

m th

e bu

rns

ofte

n af

ford

s a

cons

tant

‘cha

tter t

o th

e lo

wer

slo

pesi

de

expe

rienc

e.

The

scal

e of

the

glen

, par

ticul

arly

in it

s lin

ear e

xten

t af

ford

s gr

eat v

aria

tion

in te

rms

of w

eath

er c

ondi

tions

, lig

ht

and

wat

er s

urfa

ce re

flect

ions

all

with

in th

e sa

me

view

shed

. Li

ght a

nd s

kies

can

hig

hlig

ht a

nd re

veal

pea

ks

and

colo

ur w

hils

t at t

he s

ame

inst

ant f

urth

er a

long

the

glen

, clo

ud c

over

can

be

oppr

essi

ve, d

ark

and

sugg

est a

de

pth

to th

e lo

chs

of s

ome

sign

ifica

nce.

How

ever

, the

gra

ndeu

r, di

stin

ctiv

e A

ssyn

t - C

oiga

ch

char

acte

r and

rem

oten

ess

the

glen

offe

rs b

elie

its

acce

ssib

ility

. Th

e ro

ad th

roug

h th

e gl

en o

ffers

imm

edia

te

acce

ss to

sig

nific

ant u

plan

d te

rrain

with

in s

hort

wal

ks

from

the

car o

r bus

. Th

e ro

ad is

sel

dom

bus

y bu

t nor

is it

un

used

or a

band

oned

. Y

et s

hort

vent

ure

is re

war

ded

by

land

scap

e in

spire

d dr

ama

and

exci

tem

ent,

exhi

lara

tion

and

chal

leng

e. T

he ju

xtap

osin

g of

coa

stal

pla

in a

nd

upla

nd s

umm

it an

d pi

nnac

le a

fford

the

wal

ker s

tunn

ing

vist

as th

roug

h th

e ch

angi

ng to

pogr

aphy

ove

r sig

nific

ant

and

exte

nsiv

e vi

ews,

allo

win

g on

e to

sen

se th

e w

ider

co

ntex

t of t

he s

triki

ng p

eaks

not

ofte

n af

ford

ed in

upl

and

area

s w

here

vis

tas

are

ofte

n fo

resh

orte

ned

by th

e ne

xt

sum

mit

or ri

dge.

Th

is is

an

awe-

insp

iring

land

scap

e w

hose

spe

cial

qu

aliti

es a

re e

nhan

ced

abov

e th

e ph

ysic

al g

rand

eur b

y its

is

olat

ion

and

cont

ext o

f its

wid

er s

ettin

g of

coa

stal

pla

in,

min

imal

tree

scap

e an

d ab

senc

e of

ser

ious

vis

ual

detra

ctor

s. It

sta

nds

unch

alle

nged

in it

s dr

ama

and

perm

anen

ce a

nd e

nsur

es th

at th

e vi

sito

r und

erst

ands

it is

on

the

land

’s o

wn

term

s, a

nd th

at h

uman

effo

rt to

tam

e it

will

not

be

tole

rate

d.

89

Page 98: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Ass

ynt -

Coi

gach

NSA

– V

iew

scap

e: S

toer

Pen

insu

lar

(not

e, im

med

iate

coa

stal

frin

ge c

hara

cter

istic

s of

Sto

er P

enin

sula

r are

refle

cted

ver

y cl

osel

y by

thos

e of

the

wes

tern

frin

ge o

f the

Coi

gach

Pen

insu

lar

to th

e so

uth

of th

e N

SA

)

O

bjec

tive

Ana

lysi

s Vi

sual

Ana

lysi

s Pe

rson

al R

espo

nse

An

expo

sed,

gen

tly u

ndul

atin

g, s

moo

th g

rass

y la

ndsc

ape

boun

ded

by o

pen

slop

es s

teep

enin

g to

roc

ky

cliff

s, th

e S

toer

pen

insu

lar g

ener

ally

enj

oys

an e

leva

ted

plat

eaux

feel

, but

not

upl

and,

abo

ve th

e op

en A

tlant

ic.

It is

a m

anag

ed la

ndsc

ape

in c

ompa

rison

to m

ost o

f A

ssyn

t - C

oiga

ch a

nd e

vide

nce

of h

uman

act

ivity

far

mor

e ob

viou

s. T

here

is a

fiel

d ne

twor

k of

med

ium

to

larg

e si

zes,

sca

ttere

d bu

t fre

quen

t cro

fts a

nd a

stro

ng

netw

ork

of d

ryst

one

wal

ls.

The

cond

ition

of t

he fa

rmed

la

ndsc

ape

varie

s co

nsid

erab

ly a

cros

s th

e vi

ewsc

ape.

Th

is m

anag

ed c

ore

of th

e vi

ewsc

ape

does

how

ever

giv

e w

ay to

the

open

une

nclo

sed

but c

lear

ly g

raze

d no

rther

n se

ctio

n of

the

head

land

. S

inuo

us n

arro

w la

nes

fram

ed

by d

ryst

one

wal

ls c

ut th

roug

h th

e he

adla

nd.

This

is a

rela

tivel

y ho

mog

enou

s la

ndsc

ape

unit,

co

mpr

ised

of s

impl

e en

clos

ed a

nd o

pen

gras

slan

ds w

ith

spor

adic

sca

ttere

d co

ttage

s an

d cr

oftin

gs th

erei

n. I

t is

of a

med

ium

sca

le, r

ollin

g an

d op

en.

Ther

e is

littl

e op

portu

nity

for n

atur

al s

helte

r fro

m th

e oc

ean’

s in

fluen

ce.

The

open

oce

an’s

mov

emen

t and

sig

nific

ant

nois

e is

in s

tark

con

trast

to th

e st

illnes

s of

the

open

fie

lds

and

gras

slan

d.

The

horiz

ons

are

long

and

low

, with

the

hills

offe

ring

only

lim

ited

elev

atio

n to

the

north

and

hen

ce a

llow

ing

for

open

uni

nter

rupt

ed v

ista

s ac

ross

the

view

scap

e. T

he

skys

cape

s ar

e si

gnifi

cant

, and

the

low

er ly

ing

land

offe

rs

glim

pses

of t

he lo

ne m

ount

ains

to th

e so

uth

and

east

w

hen

the

wea

ther

per

mits

. C

olou

rs a

re m

uted

, dom

inat

ed b

y th

e gr

eens

of t

he

graz

ing

land

s an

d pu

nctu

ated

by

the

star

k w

hite

if th

e cr

ofte

rs c

otta

ges,

man

y of

whi

ch a

ppea

r to

have

bee

n af

ford

ed s

igni

fican

t res

tora

tion

in th

e re

cent

pas

t.

This

is a

n is

olat

ed b

ut le

ss h

arsh

env

ironm

ent t

han

has

been

exp

erie

nced

in a

cces

sing

it.

It of

fers

som

ethi

ng

mor

e fa

mili

ar to

man

y vi

sito

r in

cont

rast

to th

e w

ild a

nd

brok

en la

nd o

f the

cno

can

whi

ch s

urro

unds

its

land

war

d ex

tent

. N

ever

thel

ess,

this

is a

land

at t

he v

ery

oute

r edg

e of

Eur

ope,

and

its

linka

ges

to m

ajor

set

tlem

ent a

re

extre

mel

y te

nuou

s, b

oth

phys

ical

ly a

nd p

sych

olog

ical

ly.

Stoe

r pen

insu

lar f

eels

like

a lo

ng, l

ong

way

from

an

ywhe

re.

Per

haps

in th

is li

es it

s at

tract

ion

to th

ose

who

st

ill m

ake

a liv

ing

on it

s oa

sis-

like

qual

ities

in c

ompa

rison

to

nei

ghbo

urin

g la

ndsc

apes

. Y

et d

espi

te th

e re

mot

enes

s th

ere

is a

sof

tnes

s an

d fa

milia

rity

to th

e pe

nins

ular

abs

ent i

n ot

her p

arts

of A

ssyn

t - C

oiga

ch.

How

ever

har

sh th

e cl

imat

e m

ay b

e, m

an

appe

ars

to b

e ‘o

n to

p’ o

f nat

ure,

eve

n in

the

imm

edia

te

prox

imity

to th

e el

emen

tal f

orce

s of

the

ocea

n. T

he

man

aged

nat

ure

of th

e la

ndsc

ape

offe

rs p

sych

olog

ical

as

wel

l as

phys

ical

relie

f fro

m th

e w

ild a

nd u

nwel

com

ing

natu

re o

f it c

noca

n to

urni

quet

whi

ch c

an b

egin

to g

row

op

pres

sive

as

the

visi

tor t

rave

ls d

eepe

r the

rein

.

90

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Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e Tr

ees

and

heat

her a

re a

bsen

t fro

m th

e pe

nins

ular

. O

ccas

iona

l sha

llow

loch

ans,

frin

ged

with

sed

ge a

re

evid

ent.

Enc

lose

d an

d op

en g

razi

ng is

the

dom

inan

t la

nd u

se.

This

is in

sha

rp c

ontra

st to

the

exte

nsiv

e an

d ro

ugh

cnoc

an tr

acts

whi

ch m

ust b

e cr

osse

d fo

r man

y m

iles

in o

rder

to a

cces

s th

e pe

nins

ular

. Thi

s is

a

man

aged

land

scap

e in

isol

atio

n.

The

open

oce

an is

dom

inan

t in

this

vie

wsc

ape.

The

re is

no

tran

sitio

nal z

one

from

land

to s

ea, t

he c

hang

e is

ab

rupt

and

dra

mat

ic, v

iew

s ou

t of t

he p

enin

sula

r w

estw

ards

are

rest

ricte

d on

ly b

y th

e w

eath

er.

Dra

mat

ic ro

ck fo

rmat

ions

and

clif

fs fr

inge

the

peni

nsul

ar

to it

s no

rther

n ed

ge, e

xem

plifi

ed b

y th

e ep

onym

ous

Old

M

an s

ea s

tack

of t

he p

enin

sula

r.

Agai

nst t

he s

moo

th la

ndsc

ape

of th

e pe

nins

ular

the

pres

ence

of b

uild

ings

is m

ore

pron

ounc

ed, w

ith

whi

tew

ashe

d co

ttage

s do

tting

the

scen

e. T

heir

sitin

g be

lies

the

expo

sed

natu

re o

f the

pen

insu

lar a

nd

sugg

ests

a ri

chne

ss a

nd m

anag

eabi

lity

of th

e la

nd th

at

affo

rds

tole

ranc

e to

suc

h di

scom

forts

. Th

e pr

esen

ce o

f the

Sto

er L

ight

hous

e re

asse

rts th

e se

ttled

and

slig

htly

mor

e pr

ospe

rous

nat

ure

of th

e vi

ewsc

ape,

des

pite

its

‘tuck

ed a

way

’ and

inac

cess

ible

se

tting

.

Hin

ts o

r hop

es o

f spo

tting

wha

les

amon

gst t

he ‘w

hite

ho

rses

’ of t

he o

cean

from

the

mai

nlan

d dr

aw th

e ey

e ou

t to

the

sea,

her

e un

fette

red

with

isla

nds

like

else

whe

re in

th

e N

SA

, rem

ind

the

visi

tor o

f the

per

iphe

ralit

y of

whe

re h

e or

she

sta

nds.

91

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Scot

land

’s N

atio

nal S

ceni

c A

reas

– S

peci

al Q

ualit

ies

– A

ssyn

t - C

oiga

ch

C

ultu

ral a

nd H

isto

ric A

ssoc

iatio

ns

Cul

tura

l His

toric

and

O

ther

Impo

rtan

t Ass

ocia

tions

• A

ssyn

t - C

oiga

ch c

an re

ason

ably

lay

clai

m to

bei

ng th

e M

ecca

for e

arth

sci

entis

ts a

nd g

eolo

gist

s on

mai

nlan

d B

ritai

n. T

he a

rea

pres

ents

som

e of

th

e m

ost c

ompl

ex, v

arie

d an

d dr

amat

ic g

eolo

gica

l sur

face

feat

ures

in th

e U

K, f

eatu

res

whi

ch a

re fu

ndam

enta

l to

the

land

scap

e’s

form

, veg

etat

ion

cove

r, w

ater

bod

ies

and

land

use

. It

has

bee

n th

e fo

cus

for s

ome

of th

e m

ost i

nflu

entia

l sci

entif

ic s

tudy

and

adv

ance

men

t of g

eolo

gy a

s a

disc

iplin

e, a

nd c

onse

quen

tly e

njoy

s a

stat

us w

ithin

the

geol

ogic

al w

orld

far e

xcee

ding

that

of t

he g

ener

al a

war

enes

s of

wid

er p

opul

atio

n. S

tudy

of

the

rock

stra

ta in

Ass

ynt h

as b

een

a co

rner

ston

e to

the

grow

th in

und

erst

andi

ng h

ow o

ur p

lane

t has

evo

lved

, par

ticul

arly

pla

te te

cton

ics,

ove

r m

ind-

bend

ing

perio

ds o

f tim

e. In

chna

dam

ph is

per

haps

the

mos

t fam

ous

of A

ssyn

t’s g

eolo

gica

l site

s, w

ith it

s bo

ld c

liffs

enc

apsu

latin

g th

e co

ncep

t of

mon

umen

tal s

hifts

with

in th

e ea

rth’s

cru

st.

Thes

e sp

ecia

l qua

litie

s ha

ve b

een

reco

gnis

ed a

nd re

flect

ed in

Ass

ynt’s

sta

tus

as S

cotla

nd’s

firs

t E

urop

ean

Geo

park

. Th

e st

ory

of th

e un

derly

ing

geol

ogy

of th

e ar

ea is

gra

phic

ally

exp

ress

ed a

t the

Kno

ckan

Cra

g G

eolo

gica

l Cen

tre.

94

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Whi

lst f

unda

men

tal t

o th

e sc

enic

qua

lity

of th

e ar

ea, t

he d

istin

ctiv

e an

d of

ten

mys

terio

us lo

ne p

eaks

of t

he A

ssyn

t - C

oiga

ch m

ount

ains

and

m

oorla

nd a

nd c

noca

n hi

nter

land

s al

so p

rovi

de e

xcel

lent

sco

pe fo

r out

door

pur

suits

, par

ticul

arly

fell

wal

king

. H

ere

the

land

scap

e is

vas

t and

em

pty

of a

lmos

t any

inse

nsiti

ve to

uris

t rel

ated

dev

elop

men

t or p

arap

hern

alia

. P

aths

are

qui

et e

ven

in s

umm

er m

onth

s. T

he e

xper

ienc

e of

so

litud

e, m

arrie

d w

ith th

e gr

ande

ur o

f the

out

look

and

det

ail o

f the

imm

edia

te g

eolo

gy a

nd fl

ora

is o

ne th

at a

fford

s a

spec

ial p

lace

in B

ritis

h m

ount

ain

purs

uits

. E

ven

by S

cotti

sh s

tand

ards

the

expe

rienc

e of

wal

king

in A

ssyn

t - C

oiga

ch is

spe

cial

and

dis

tinct

.

• S

igni

fican

t Par

ts o

f Ass

ynt -

Coi

gach

, and

par

ticul

arly

the

coas

tal f

ringe

of c

rofti

ng c

omm

uniti

es a

nd ‘w

orke

d’ la

ndsc

ape

has

for m

any

year

s be

en

in th

e ow

ners

hip

of la

rge

spor

ting

(sho

otin

g an

d fis

hing

) est

ates

, man

aged

prim

arily

for s

uch

purp

oses

. C

rofte

rs h

ave

paid

rent

and

wor

ked

to

land

lord

s.

The

Land

Ref

orm

(Sco

tland

) Act

affo

rded

the

com

mun

ities

with

in a

nces

tral e

stat

es th

e rig

ht to

buy

the

land

on

whi

ch th

ey w

ork

and

exis

t. A

num

ber o

f com

mun

ity b

uy-o

uts

have

bee

n su

cces

sful

ly c

ompl

eted

with

in th

e ar

ea a

nd m

ay re

pres

ent a

sig

nific

ant e

ra in

the

soci

al a

nd

envi

ronm

enta

l his

tory

of n

orth

-wes

t Sco

tland

. C

omm

uniti

es, s

uppo

rted

by s

igni

fican

t don

atio

ns fr

om th

e S

cotti

sh L

and

Fund

, con

tribu

tions

from

G

over

nmen

t Age

ncie

s, c

harit

able

trus

ts a

nd fu

ndra

isin

g ap

peal

s ha

ve n

ow b

een

affo

rd th

e ch

ance

to o

wn

the

land

on

whi

ch th

ey li

ve, a

nd

man

age

it ac

cord

ing

to a

chie

ve m

ore

sust

aina

ble

soci

al, e

cono

mic

and

impo

rtant

ly, e

nviro

nmen

tal o

bjec

tives

.

• A

ssyn

t - C

oiga

ch o

ffers

sup

erb

trout

fish

ing

oppo

rtuni

ties

acro

ss it

s co

mpl

ex a

nd e

xten

sive

net

wor

k of

loch

s an

d lo

chan

s. T

his

in it

self

is n

ot a

fu

nctio

n of

the

land

scap

e or

the

scen

ic q

ualit

y of

the

area

. H

owev

er, w

hat i

s im

porta

nt in

this

resp

ect i

s th

e ov

eral

l exp

erie

nce

that

the

angl

ing

offe

rs to

ent

husi

asts

. Th

e se

tting

of t

he w

ater

bod

ies,

rem

ote,

inte

nsel

y pe

acef

ul, f

ree

from

dis

turb

ance

of a

lmos

t any

kin

d lu

res

fishe

rman

to th

e fa

r nor

th, w

ell b

eyon

d m

any

othe

r fin

e fis

herie

s, b

ut w

hich

can

not o

ffer t

he s

peci

al e

xper

ienc

e of

Ass

ynt -

Coi

gach

.

• Th

e sh

ores

of L

och

Assy

nt p

rese

nt a

n at

mos

pher

ic re

min

der o

f the

pas

ts in

fluen

ce o

n th

e ar

ea a

t Ard

vrec

k C

astle

and

the

Cal

da H

ouse

. Th

e ca

stle

dat

es fr

om a

roun

d 14

09, h

ome

to th

e M

acle

ods

of A

ssyn

t and

pla

yed

a ro

le in

the

clan

dis

pute

s an

d R

oyal

ist w

ars

of th

e 16

00s.

Tak

en b

y th

e M

acke

nzie

s in

167

2, it

was

eve

ntua

lly s

acke

d an

d de

stro

yed

in th

e m

id 1

700s

by

Cro

wn

forc

es s

eeki

ng re

tribu

tion

for t

he C

lan’

s in

volv

emen

t in

the

1745

upr

isin

g.

95

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Assynt - Coigach NSA

Initial List of Special Qualities • Dramatic, rugged, exposed, isolated landscape. • The scale and extent – large unspoilt areas – of the landform. • Unique seascape with a combination of scattered islands close to the shore. • ‘Edge of world’ experience on the rugged, exposed coast. • Sparsely populated, with few small settlements and dispersed crofting areas, yet

accessible by determined tourists, walkers and anglers prepared to travel. • Larger settlements such as Ullapool (just outside the NSA) and Lochinver comprise

sheltered harbours. Other settlements are on flatter land where enclosed grazing and cultivation is easier. Here the brighter greens of pastures contrast with the monotone more sombre heather moorland (colours dependent on season but contrast in colour would remain).

• Narrow, long, winding roads follow the base of the mountains and loch shorelines,

offering dramatic views of ever changing scenery. • Extensive areas are inaccessible except on foot, giving a sense of remoteness and quiet.

Feeling at one with the natural landscape. A core of wild land. • Lack of trees. Coniferous forests are notable by their absence, names such as Inverpolly

Forest, Drumrunie Forest and Inchnadamph Forest refer to open deer forests. • Steep-sided glens, with narrow bands of sheltered broadleaved woodland, hidden away

in the landscape but when encountered they break up the wider, more exposed, prevailing landscape.

• Strong cnocan landscape of exposed, hummocky terrain with extensive lochs / lochans,

over much of the central part of the NSA – mysterious, secretive, unsettling. • Internationally famous diverse geological character, being the birthplace of major

geological thinking by Benjamin Peach and John Horne. Extensive areas of Lewisian Gneiss and Cambrian Limestone contrast with Sandstones, Quartzite and Syenite. Steep, dramatic, exposed sheer cliffs at Inchnadamph and Knockan are unique examples of the Moine Thrust, where overlying schists have been thrust westwards over much older rocks. Visitor attraction at Knockan Crag that tells the story of the unique geology.

• Dramatic mountainous lone peaks with unique outlines and distinctive shapes which are

easily recognisable and referred to by their individual names e.g. Ben Mor Coigach, Ben More Assynt, Suilven, Canisp and Stac Pollaidh. Provide recognisable land marks throughout the area

• Unique combination of smooth moorland and peat bog running into rocky moorland /

cnocan running up to irregular hill ranges and lone mountain peaks. Exposed, huge glacial erratics give a rugged and desolate beauty.

96

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• Unique? combination of mysterious, majestic peaks often with caps of white quartzite and light grey lichen, and often shrouded in mist and low cloud, contrasting with the deep, dark, horizontally flat lochs.

• More managed areas of traditional crofting, where sheep grazing and muir burn dictate

the changing appearance of the landscape, such as at Ben Mor Coigach. • Wildlife, such as in the Scottish Wildlife Trust’s reserve at Ben Mor Coigach, where

northern buckler-fern, trailing azalea and dwarf juniper are less common. Ravens and ring ouzels nest in the hills, and red grouse, ptarmigan and twite feed amongst the heather. Stonechat, whinchat, redpoll and wheatear are found down on the crofts. Grey seals and otter frequent the shoreline and islets.

97

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A

PPEN

DIX

2

FI

ELD

WO

RK

OU

TPU

TS

BEN

NEV

IS A

ND

GLE

N C

OE

NA

TIO

NA

L SC

ENIC

AR

EA

99

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Ben

Nev

is a

nd G

len

Coe

NSA

– V

iew

poin

t / R

oute

: Gle

n C

oe

O

bjec

tive

Ana

lysi

s Vi

sual

Ana

lysi

s Pe

rson

al R

espo

nse

Hug

e gr

anite

mou

ntai

n ra

nges

of v

olca

nic

orig

in, w

ith th

e A8

2 an

d R

iver

Coe

follo

win

g th

e na

rrow

‘u’-s

hape

d ha

ngin

g gl

acia

ted

valle

y in

bet

wee

n. S

wee

ping

con

cave

sl

opes

of s

teep

rock

face

s pl

umm

et in

to th

e va

lley.

Th

e m

ass

of B

ucha

ille

Etiv

e M

or (t

he G

reat

She

pher

d of

E

tive)

soa

rs 1

200

ft ab

ove

the

valle

y flo

or a

t its

junc

tion

with

the

Riv

er E

tive

and

the

road

that

runs

sou

th-

wes

twar

ds to

war

ds L

och

Etiv

e. T

his

mar

ks th

e en

tranc

e to

the

glen

from

the

east

. Th

e ro

ad c

ontin

ues

dow

n th

e gl

en fo

r ano

ther

12

mile

s.

Thre

e pe

aks

dom

inat

e on

the

sout

h si

de, k

now

n as

The

Th

ree

Sis

ters

of G

lenc

oe, t

he o

utly

ing

spur

s of

Arg

yll’s

hi

ghes

t mou

ntai

n, B

idea

n na

m B

ian,

at 3

776

ft. T

he

Hid

den

Val

ley

runs

bet

wee

n th

e fir

st tw

o, a

nd O

ssia

n’s

cave

is s

een

high

up

on th

e cl

iffs

of th

e th

ird.

Opp

osite

The

Thr

ee S

iste

rs is

the

Pas

s of

Gle

ncoe

, w

here

the

road

squ

eeze

s be

twee

n th

e m

ount

ain

side

s.

On

the

oppo

site

sid

e of

the

glen

runs

the

serr

ated

ridg

e of

Ao

nach

Eag

ach,

whi

ch fo

rms

the

north

ern

boun

dary

of

the

glen

. Fa

ns o

f scr

ee a

nd b

rack

en h

ug th

e sl

opes

whe

re w

ater

dr

ains

dow

n to

the

river

. Abo

ve, t

he c

ragg

y su

mm

its a

re

bare

, whi

lst o

n th

e va

lley

floor

rela

tivel

y lu

sh g

raze

d ro

cky

mea

dow

s lin

e th

e in

cons

picu

ous

river

. Tre

es a

re fe

w, w

ith

occa

sion

al p

atch

es o

f birc

h fo

llow

ing

the

shel

tere

d gu

llies

up

the

mou

ntai

n si

des.

Th

e Ki

ngs

Hou

se H

otel

lies

on

the

edge

of R

anno

ch M

oor

at th

e ea

ster

n en

tranc

e to

the

glen

, whi

lst t

he C

lach

aig

Inn

lies

at th

e w

este

rn e

nd. I

n be

twee

n ar

e a

few

sm

all

isol

ated

farm

hous

es. T

he re

mai

ns o

f she

iling

s ca

n be

se

en in

the

valle

y flo

or.

Typi

cal g

laci

al fo

rms

such

as

aret

es a

nd c

orrie

s ar

e fo

und

with

in th

e m

ount

ain

rang

es, a

nd m

orai

ne a

nd e

rratic

s al

ong

the

valle

y flo

or.

Vas

t, im

posi

ng, a

we-

insp

iring

mou

ntai

n ra

nges

with

sp

ecta

cula

r pro

min

ent p

eaks

mak

ing

them

eas

ily

reco

gnis

able

. A

gen

eral

ly e

xpos

ed, s

impl

e la

ndsc

ape

dom

inat

ed b

y th

e tre

men

dous

vis

ual f

orce

of t

he s

moo

th ro

ck fa

ces

that

sw

eep

dow

n fro

m s

umm

its in

to th

e br

oad

‘u’-s

hape

d gl

en.

The

over

pow

erin

g na

ture

of t

hese

is e

mph

asis

ed b

y tu

mbl

ing

burn

s an

d w

ater

falls

, esp

ecia

lly w

hen

swol

len

with

wat

er.

Occ

asio

nal b

uild

ings

, gra

zing

she

ep, t

he A

82 a

nd th

e riv

er o

n th

e va

lley

floor

are

tota

lly d

omin

ated

by

the

glen

si

des

rear

ing

up d

ram

atic

ally

from

the

flat b

ase.

D

eep

rock

y cl

efts

with

in th

e m

ount

ain

side

s, c

arve

d an

d hi

ghlig

hted

by

silv

ery

burn

s an

d sh

adow

s, s

omet

imes

w

ith b

irch

trees

, for

m m

eand

erin

g m

ossy

vei

ns o

n th

e ro

ck fa

ce.

Mos

t peo

ple

prob

ably

firs

t see

Gle

n C

oe w

hen

appr

oach

ing

from

the

east

alo

ng th

e A

82. T

he c

ontra

st

from

the

roug

hly

leve

l pla

teau

of d

ark,

hum

moc

ky p

eat

moo

rland

, dot

ted

with

innu

mer

able

loch

s, lo

chan

s an

d bo

gs, o

n R

anno

ch M

oor t

o th

e ea

st, w

ith G

len

Coe

cou

ld

not b

e st

arke

r. S

imila

rly, m

ost w

alke

rs o

n th

e W

est H

ighl

and

Way

will

ap

proa

ch fr

om th

e so

uth-

east

, fro

m th

e ed

ge o

f Ran

noch

M

oor.

Hav

ing

prob

ably

sta

yed

over

nigh

t at t

he K

ings

H

ouse

Hot

el, t

he lo

ng d

ista

nce

foot

path

con

tinue

s th

roug

h th

e G

len

on th

e se

ctio

n of

Old

Milit

ary

Roa

d,

befo

re d

iver

ting

north

war

ds to

Kin

loch

leve

n vi

a th

e D

evil’s

S

tairc

ase.

S

ever

al la

y-by

s pr

ovid

e th

e tra

velle

r the

opp

ortu

nity

to

take

in th

e br

eath

taki

ng v

iew

s, s

afel

y of

f the

bus

y ro

ad.

With

tow

erin

g m

ount

ains

sw

eepi

ng d

own

on b

oth

side

s,

Gle

n C

oe is

bot

h sp

ecta

cula

rly b

eaut

iful a

nd y

et s

trang

ely

forb

iddi

ng –

a le

gacy

per

haps

of t

he in

fam

ous

mas

sacr

e th

at to

ok p

lace

her

e in

169

2.

100

Page 109: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Ben

Nev

is a

nd G

len

Coe

NSA

– V

iew

poin

t / R

oute

: Gle

n Et

ive

Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e D

eep,

ste

ep s

ided

but

bro

ad u

pper

gle

n, b

ranc

hing

so

uthw

ards

from

the

head

of G

len

Coe

. M

assi

ve u

plan

d sc

ener

y w

ith g

rani

te /

volc

anic

out

crop

, a n

arro

win

g va

lley

floor

and

sha

llow

but

mar

ked

gorg

e in

val

ley

floor

. Th

e hi

gh m

ount

ain

side

s sw

eep

into

a le

ss p

rono

unce

d u-

shap

ed v

alle

y flo

or th

an a

t low

er p

oint

s of

the

glen

, al

thou

gh th

e su

rface

cha

ract

eris

tics

are

sim

ilar i

n th

at

gras

s co

ver i

s do

min

ant a

lthou

gh h

eath

er a

nd b

ilber

ry is

al

so w

ides

prea

d. U

pper

slo

pes

of g

rass

giv

e w

ay to

ex

pose

d ro

ck a

nd s

tone

fiel

ds to

war

ds th

e su

mm

its.

Ver

tical

stre

ams

plun

ge fr

om u

pper

slo

pes

som

etim

es in

de

ep c

lefts

of t

he h

illsi

de, w

hils

t at o

ther

s se

emin

g to

run

over

bro

ad a

nd s

tubb

orn

expo

sed

bedr

ock

whe

re

chan

nels

see

m im

poss

ible

to c

arve

. Th

ey v

alle

y’s

side

s sm

ooth

app

eara

nce

is o

ften

inte

rrupt

ed b

y la

rge

glac

ial

boul

der o

r exp

osed

but

tress

to o

ne o

f its

man

y in

term

edia

te p

eaks

. Th

ere

is o

ccas

iona

l and

rela

tivel

y sm

all t

ract

s of

co

nife

rous

pla

ntat

ion,

but

thes

e do

not

trul

y ch

arac

teris

e th

e gl

en.

Sm

all a

reas

of f

ence

s of

f riv

ersi

de w

oodl

and

is

rege

nera

ting

with

will

ow, b

irch

and

alde

r but

aga

in, w

hils

t m

ore

natu

ral,

is n

ot w

ides

prea

d. O

n oc

casi

on th

e tre

es

seem

to c

ling

prec

ario

usly

to s

teep

er s

ectio

ns o

f val

ley

side

s or

but

tress

.

This

is a

ver

y la

rge

scal

e la

ndsc

ape

alth

ough

the

broa

d en

clos

ure

from

whi

ch th

e vi

ewsh

ed is

take

n do

es n

ot

affo

rd d

ista

nt v

iew

s af

ford

ing

grea

ter s

uper

lativ

es o

f sc

ale.

Tw

ists

, alb

eit m

inor

alte

ratio

ns fr

om th

e st

raig

ht

serv

e to

trun

cate

vie

ws

dow

n th

e gl

en d

espi

te th

e gr

adua

l an

d co

nsis

tent

rate

of f

all t

owar

ds th

e he

ad o

f Loc

h E

tive.

Th

ere

is a

ple

asan

t ope

nnes

s th

roug

hout

the

glen

, in

part

as a

resu

lt of

the

wid

e va

lley

side

s bu

t als

o th

roug

h ab

senc

e of

mea

ns o

f enc

losu

re e

ither

in v

alle

y flo

or o

n up

on it

s si

des.

Thi

s co

ntrib

utes

to th

e pl

easi

ng s

impl

icity

to

the

glen

. C

olou

rs a

re a

lso

unco

mpl

icat

ed in

pat

tern

or

mix

and

are

dom

inat

ed b

y m

uted

gre

ens

of th

e gr

ass

and

heat

her b

efor

e flo

wer

. H

ighe

r rea

ches

of t

he v

iew

shed

ar

e m

ore

influ

ence

d by

the

light

gre

y ou

tcro

p an

d ex

pose

, bo

ulde

r and

sto

ne fi

elds

. Th

e riv

er a

nd ro

ad a

nd a

t tim

es th

e te

leph

one

cabl

es

emph

asis

e th

e fu

nnel

ling

effe

ct o

f the

gle

n an

d cr

eate

st

rong

line

s in

the

scen

ery.

The

uppe

r gle

n of

fers

a g

entle

r vis

ual e

xper

ienc

e th

an th

e ne

ighb

ourin

g G

len

Coe

, and

alm

ost a

fford

s so

me

relie

f fro

m th

e la

tter’s

gre

at s

plen

dour

and

dra

ma.

How

ever

th

is is

stil

l an

impr

essi

ve s

cene

and

its

unsp

oilt

natu

re

wel

com

es th

e tra

velle

r and

ser

ves

to re

fresh

the

spiri

t and

m

ind.

Thi

s is

not

to s

ay th

at th

e su

mm

its a

nd b

uttre

ssed

si

des

to s

ome

of E

tive’

s pe

aks

are

not i

mpr

essi

ve, b

ut

they

do

not e

xude

a th

reat

in th

e w

ay th

e si

des

of G

len

Coe

’s p

rese

nt.

The

grad

ual w

indi

ng a

nd s

inki

ng o

f the

road

into

the

mid

dle

dist

ance

, reg

ular

ly o

bscu

red

by re

lief a

nd th

en

appa

rent

aga

in, t

empt

s th

e vi

sito

r to

prog

ress

dee

per i

nto

the

glen

, a p

heno

men

a w

hich

will

lure

one

ste

adily

and

in

evita

bly

to th

e he

ad o

f the

bea

utifu

l Loc

h E

tive.

W

ith th

is jo

urne

y th

e se

reni

ty a

nd p

eace

ful a

ura

of th

e va

lley

grow

s, a

nd s

eeps

into

the

obse

rver

. Th

ere

is li

ttle

to c

ompr

omis

e th

e ex

perie

nce

of a

per

fect

Sco

ttish

gle

n.

The

deta

il an

d lif

e of

the

river

, its

mod

est g

orge

, oc

casi

onal

ban

k-si

de tr

ees

and

colo

urfu

l exp

osed

be

droc

k of

fer a

focu

s of

inte

rest

whi

ch d

eman

ds a

sho

rt w

alk

from

the

narro

w la

ne fo

r fur

ther

inve

stig

atio

n. H

ere

it w

ould

be

very

eas

y to

whi

le a

way

man

y a

peac

eful

ho

ur.

101

Page 110: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e Th

e sw

eepi

ng, r

elat

ivel

y sm

ooth

topo

grap

hy is

refle

cted

in

the

mai

n by

stro

ng b

ut n

ot ja

gged

mou

ntai

n pe

aks,

so

mew

hat i

n co

ntra

st to

the

dram

a of

Gle

n C

oe n

ear-b

y.

The

river

Etiv

e is

a fe

atur

e of

sig

nific

ant d

etai

l rat

her t

han

prom

inen

ce in

the

gene

rally

sim

ple

valle

y sc

ener

y. I

t of

ten

occu

pies

a s

hallo

w b

ut s

igni

fican

t nar

row

gor

ge to

th

e va

lley

floor

with

in w

hich

it c

asca

des

over

rock

s an

d w

ater

falls

and

form

s de

ep s

till p

ools

in it

s ho

llow

s. H

ere

the

bedr

ock

stra

ta is

stri

king

in it

s co

lour

and

geo

met

ric

form

of v

ertic

al d

rops

and

hor

izon

tal s

helv

es.

This

is a

ver

y st

ill la

ndsc

ape

with

ver

y lit

tle tr

affic

on

the

long

dea

d-en

d ro

ad.

Onl

y th

e sk

ies

and

wat

er o

f the

rive

r tu

mbl

ing

over

rock

s an

d in

to p

ools

dra

w th

e at

tent

ion

by

mov

emen

t. N

oise

is li

kew

ise

min

imal

with

onl

y oc

casi

onal

bird

song

mak

ing

impa

ct, p

artic

ular

ly th

at o

f cu

ckoo

and

sky

lark

.

102

Page 111: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Ben

Nev

is a

nd G

len

Coe

NSA

– V

iew

poin

t / R

oute

: Gle

n N

evis

Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e A

dra

mat

ic g

len

curv

ing

arou

nd th

e fo

ot o

f the

Ben

Nev

is

rang

e, w

ith g

reat

var

iety

of l

andf

orm

and

land

cov

er

resu

lting

from

act

ions

of h

uge

glac

iers

dur

ing

the

last

Ice-

Age

. Th

e lo

wer

gle

n in

clud

es a

win

ding

road

alo

ngsi

de th

e R

iver

Nev

is w

hich

lies

in a

bro

ad, f

lat b

ut g

ently

risi

ng

valle

y flo

or w

ith s

teep

val

ley

side

s. H

uge,

ste

eply

incl

ined

sl

abs

of m

etam

orph

osed

san

dsto

ne, k

now

n as

Eild

e Fl

ags,

are

vis

ible

clo

se to

the

river

. The

se a

re th

e ol

dest

ro

cks

in G

len

Nev

is, u

sed

to b

uild

For

t Willi

am.

Land

cov

er in

the

low

er g

len

com

pris

es b

road

leav

ed

woo

dlan

d cl

ingi

ng to

the

stee

p sl

opes

to th

e va

lley

floor

. Th

ere

are

also

con

ifero

us p

lant

atio

ns a

nd m

ore

open

gr

azin

g pa

stur

e la

nd o

n th

e br

oad

valle

y flo

or. T

here

are

pi

ctur

esqu

e st

ream

poo

ls a

nd s

mal

l wat

erfa

lls.

The

low

er g

len

incl

udes

occ

asio

nal d

ispe

rsed

farm

stea

ds

but p

redo

min

antly

larg

e ca

rava

n an

d ca

mpi

ng s

ites,

clo

se

to th

e B

en N

evis

vis

itor c

entre

and

car

par

k. H

ere

acce

ss

is g

aine

d to

the

wal

ks u

p to

the

peak

of B

en N

evis

. The

W

est H

ighl

and

Way

long

-dis

tanc

e fo

otpa

th p

asse

s th

roug

h Fo

rest

ry C

omm

issi

on-c

ontro

lled

woo

dlan

d (N

evis

Fo

rest

) to

the

wes

t of t

he g

len

prio

r to

reac

hing

its

dest

inat

ion

at F

ort W

illiam

. Th

e ro

ad u

p th

e m

iddl

e gl

en g

ets

narr

ower

, mor

e tw

isty

an

d st

eepe

r. W

oodl

and

of w

illow

, birc

h an

d al

der t

hins

out

as

the

road

clim

bs h

igh

abov

e th

e riv

er. M

atur

e S

cots

P

ines

are

feat

ures

on

the

valle

y si

des,

old

and

gna

rled

and

clin

ging

pre

cario

usly

bet

wee

n bo

ulde

r and

out

crop

. M

uch

of th

e m

iddl

e gl

en is

cov

ered

by

river

dep

osits

and

gl

acia

l till

, som

etim

es h

eape

d up

into

mou

nds

of m

orai

ne.

The

mid

dle

glen

incl

udes

the

Low

er F

alls

, tw

in w

ater

falls

fo

rmed

by

the

river

ero

ding

alo

ng th

e lin

es o

f tw

o se

para

te d

ykes

cut

ting

thro

ugh

the

red

colo

ured

gra

nite

of

Mul

lach

nan

Coi

rean

. In

othe

r are

as th

e riv

er tu

mbl

es

The

sum

mit

of B

en N

evis

is n

ot v

isib

le fr

om th

e flo

or o

f th

e gl

en, b

ut a

n im

pres

sion

of t

he m

ount

ain’

s im

men

se

bulk

is g

aine

d th

roug

h vi

ews

up th

e gr

anite

sid

es o

ften

punc

tuat

ed b

y lo

w ly

ing

clou

d or

mis

t. Vi

ews

vary

thro

ugho

ut th

e gl

en, b

eing

con

fined

and

en

clos

ed o

n th

e lo

wer

val

ley

floor

, but

ope

ning

out

furth

er

up th

e gl

en a

s ve

geta

tion

thin

s ou

t.

The

valle

y flo

or o

f the

low

er g

len

is w

ell t

reed

, the

tree

s th

inni

ng o

ut ir

regu

larly

up

the

valle

y si

des.

Bro

adle

aved

w

oodl

and

cont

rast

s w

ith c

onife

rous

pla

ntat

ions

. Exp

osed

ro

ck, o

ften

huge

, fol

ded

and

upen

ded,

are

key

feat

ures

in

the

land

scap

e, e

spec

ially

whe

re th

ey a

re c

lose

ly re

late

d to

the

river

, cre

atin

g lo

ud w

ater

falls

. Th

ere

is a

gra

dual

tran

sitio

n fro

m e

nclo

sed

tree

cove

r to

open

gra

ssla

nd, o

fferin

g vi

ews

up to

the

expo

sed

rock

y su

mm

its. T

here

are

ribb

ons

of b

road

leav

ed tr

ees

in d

eep

gulli

es, a

nd o

ther

sm

all f

ans

of lo

ose

scre

e.

The

mid

dle

glen

get

s in

crea

sing

ly m

ore

rock

y an

d no

isie

r as

the

river

falls

ove

r hug

e bo

ulde

rs. M

anag

ed re

crea

tion

on th

e fla

t val

ley

floor

of t

he lo

wer

gle

n gi

ves

way

to a

m

ore

rem

ote,

wild

er, n

atur

al, s

ecre

tive

gorg

e. T

his

is th

e ‘H

imal

ayan

’ lan

dsca

pe a

s de

scrib

ed in

Sco

tland

’s S

ceni

c H

erita

ge.

Ther

e is

a d

ram

atic

cha

nge

in s

cene

ry a

t the

eas

tern

end

of

the

gorg

e, w

here

the

rock

y, e

nclo

sed,

wel

l-tre

ed m

iddl

e gl

en o

pens

out

at t

he s

tart

of th

e up

per g

len

into

an

alpi

ne

mea

dow

. Her

e th

ere

are

open

vie

ws

acro

ss th

e br

oad,

pa

stor

al v

alle

y flo

or to

the

expo

sed,

ste

ep s

ided

m

ount

ains

whi

ch e

nclo

se th

e gl

en.

The

glen

is e

asily

reac

hed

from

For

t Willi

am a

nd is

a

popu

lar d

estin

atio

n fo

r the

out

door

ent

husi

ast.

The

low

er

glen

is fa

r fro

m b

eing

rem

ote

– it

is a

bus

y ar

ea u

sed

by

cycl

ists

, cam

pers

and

wal

kers

, as

wel

l as

car-

base

d to

uris

ts.

The

floor

of t

he lo

wer

gle

n is

a m

anag

ed, s

omet

imes

m

anic

ured

, lan

dsca

pe. L

imite

d vi

ews

up th

e gl

en a

nd

tow

ards

the

mou

ntai

ns o

n ei

ther

sid

e cr

eate

a fe

elin

g of

th

is b

eing

the

gate

way

to a

muc

h m

ore

rem

ote,

hos

tile

envi

ronm

ent b

eyon

d. T

his

is a

n ar

ea w

here

peo

ple

are

eith

er p

repa

ring

for a

n ex

citin

g ad

vent

ure

(the

‘lull

befo

re

the

stor

m’!)

or r

ecov

erin

g fro

m ju

st h

avin

g ex

perie

nced

on

e. T

he lo

wer

gle

n is

thus

com

forti

ng, r

elax

ing

and

safe

. Th

e ge

ntle

rive

r with

its

broa

d sh

ingl

e be

ach

and

the

picn

ic a

reas

out

side

the

visi

tor c

entre

add

to th

is

expe

rienc

e.

The

mid

dle

glen

is m

uch

mor

e re

mot

er, w

ilder

and

na

tura

l. Th

ere

is a

sen

se o

f adv

entu

re w

hen

follo

win

g th

e un

prot

ecte

d, ro

cky,

slip

pery

pat

h w

ith th

e fa

st fl

owin

g riv

er a

nd h

uge

boul

ders

and

rock

poo

ls b

elow

. Th

ere

is a

sen

se o

f ach

ieve

men

t at t

he e

nd o

f the

gor

ge

as it

ope

ns o

ut in

to th

e fla

tter,

broa

der,

past

oral

upp

er

glen

. Thi

s is

a ti

me

to ta

ke a

bre

athe

r and

pro

babl

y lin

ger

on th

e pe

bble

bea

ch a

t the

foot

of t

he im

pres

sive

An

Ste

all w

ater

fall

befo

re d

ecid

ing

whe

ther

to ta

ke th

e ro

cky

rout

e ba

ck o

r con

tinue

the

long

wal

k ea

stw

ards

to L

och

Trei

g an

d th

e ra

ilway

line

at C

orro

ur S

tatio

n.

103

Page 112: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e no

isily

ove

r the

rock

s.

Sca

ttere

d ac

ross

the

mou

ntai

n si

des

to th

e no

rth o

f the

ro

ad a

re th

e P

olld

ubh

Cra

gs, p

opul

ar w

ith ro

ck c

limbe

rs.

The

slab

by s

outh

face

s of

thes

e cr

ags,

mad

e of

mic

a sc

hist

, sho

w c

lear

evi

denc

e of

scr

apin

g by

ice.

Al

ongs

ide

the

road

are

exa

mpl

es o

f ‘ro

ches

mou

tonn

ees’

, sm

all r

ock

outc

rops

with

a s

moo

th w

hale

back

sha

pe o

n on

e si

de w

here

ice

has

scra

ped

over

the

rock

, and

a

stee

per f

ace

whe

re ro

ck h

as b

een

pluc

ked

by th

e ic

e de

scen

ding

on

the

dow

nstre

am s

ide.

W

ater

dra

inin

g fro

m C

oire

Eog

hain

n hi

gh o

n th

e so

uthe

rn

flank

of B

en N

evis

rush

es d

own

gran

ite s

labs

for m

ore

than

350

m.

The

uppe

r gle

n is

reac

hed

by w

alki

ng fo

r 1.5

km th

roug

h th

e N

evis

gor

ge fr

om th

e ca

r par

k at

the

end

of th

e na

rrow

twis

ting

road

. A s

teep

, ofte

n sl

ippe

ry p

ath

win

ds

over

the

rock

s hi

gh a

bove

the

river

, its

sid

es u

npro

tect

ed.

Hug

e de

ep p

otho

les,

cut

into

the

schi

st b

y bo

ulde

rs b

eing

sp

un a

roun

d by

edd

y cu

rrent

s in

the

fast

flow

ing

wat

er,

are

seen

in th

e go

rge

belo

w.

The

gorg

e op

ens

out i

nto

a fla

t alp

ine

mea

dow

as

the

river

follo

ws

a m

ore

flatte

r cou

rse

in b

etw

een

the

stee

p si

ded

mou

ntai

ns. W

oodl

and

give

s w

ay to

ope

n, e

xpos

ed

moo

rland

and

occ

asio

nal b

road

leav

ed tr

ees

in th

e va

lley

side

s. ‘A

n S

teal

l’ is

a d

ram

atic

wat

erfa

ll ca

scad

ing

dow

n a

100m

hig

h w

all o

f whi

te q

uarz

ite ro

ck fr

om C

oire

a M

hail,

a

hang

ing

valle

y.

104

Page 113: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Ben

Nev

is a

nd G

len

Coe

NSA

– V

iew

scap

e: L

och

Etiv

e

Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e U

nset

tled

inne

r rea

ches

of f

jord

like

sea

loch

. B

ound

ed

by h

igh

smoo

th, c

onca

ve p

rofil

ed s

ided

mou

ntai

ns.

Bro

ad b

otto

med

u-s

hape

d gl

acia

l val

ley

reac

hing

far i

nto

the

mou

ntai

n m

assi

f of t

he G

len

Coe

/ B

lack

Mou

nt a

reas

. B

road

gra

ssy

stra

th a

t the

bra

ided

mou

th o

f the

rive

r Et

ive

give

s w

ay to

the

open

and

cal

m w

ater

s of

the

uppe

r lo

ch.

The

Loch

sw

eeps

sou

th w

estw

ards

in a

line

ar

fash

ion

thro

ugh

undi

lute

d m

ount

ain

scen

ery.

La

nd c

over

is p

redo

min

antly

ope

n w

ater

of t

he lo

ch,

mov

ing

to g

rass

moo

rland

slo

pes

of th

e lo

wer

reac

hes

of

the

fjord

and

then

giv

ing

way

to s

teep

and

ext

ensi

ve

scre

e, e

xpos

ed ro

ck a

nd b

ould

er s

trew

n su

mm

its.

Hea

ther

is n

otab

le b

y its

abs

ence

. A

bove

the

head

of t

he

loch

the

low

er s

trath

is in

crea

sing

ly c

olon

ised

by

exte

nsiv

e sw

athe

s of

rhod

oden

dron

. Al

der a

nd b

irch

woo

dlan

d is

pat

chy

but a

n im

porta

nt c

ompo

nent

of t

he

stra

th fl

oor,

exte

ndin

g fo

r som

e di

stan

ce n

orth

war

ds in

to

the

mid

dle

glen

.

This

is a

stu

nnin

gly

beau

tiful

, hig

hly

attra

ctiv

e la

ndsc

ape

whi

ch e

njoy

s gr

eat s

eren

ity, a

nd b

alan

ce o

f com

posi

tion.

Its

sca

le is

larg

e bu

t not

ove

raw

ing,

with

sub

tle v

arie

ty

with

in g

ener

al s

impl

icity

of s

lope

, veg

etat

ion

and

wat

er.

The

very

low

key

leve

l of h

uman

act

ivity

, and

the

abse

nce

of ro

ad li

nks

from

the

head

of t

he lo

ch to

its

settl

emen

ts to

th

e so

uth

wes

t affo

rd a

n ex

trem

ely

peac

eful

am

bien

ce to

th

e vi

ew.

Sha

pe is

par

ticul

arly

impo

rtant

with

in th

e gl

en a

s th

e si

des

of it

s m

ount

ains

are

con

sist

ently

con

cave

, and

its

sum

mits

roun

ded

but p

rom

inen

t pea

k pr

ofile

. S

harp

edg

e or

rugg

ed fe

atur

e is

not

pro

min

ent i

n th

e vi

sta,

alth

ough

ro

ck d

etai

l is

impo

rtant

to u

pper

slo

pes

and

the

deep

fis

sure

d st

ream

s pl

ungi

ng to

the

valle

y flo

or.

The

low

er g

len

is e

nclo

sed

in th

at th

e pe

aks

of e

ither

sid

e of

the

valle

y ar

e al

way

s pr

omin

ent a

nd d

raw

the

eye,

but

th

e br

oadn

ess

of th

e lo

wer

gle

n flo

or a

nd v

ista

s do

wn

the

leng

th o

f the

gle

n af

ford

relie

f fro

m th

is, r

esul

ting

in a

pl

easa

ntly

ope

n ch

arac

ter o

f am

ple

spac

es.

This

is a

site

whe

re th

e m

eani

ng o

f pea

cefu

lnes

s ca

n be

re

defin

ed in

gen

tle e

arly

sum

mer

wea

ther

! Th

e hy

pnot

isin

g rh

ythm

of t

he lo

ch’s

lapp

ing

wat

ers,

allie

d w

ith a

bsen

ce o

f hum

an a

ctiv

ity, s

helte

r fro

m th

e w

inds

by

high

val

ley

wal

ls a

nd a

bsen

ce o

r rug

ged

dram

a in

the

imm

edia

te la

ndsc

ape

affo

rds

a ve

ry s

peci

al a

mbi

ence

to

the

view

scap

e.

The

long

and

ext

ende

d si

ngle

trac

k la

ne fr

om th

e ju

nctio

n at

Gle

n C

oe to

the

head

of t

he lo

ch o

ffers

a g

radu

al

desc

ent f

rom

the

gran

deur

and

dra

ma

of G

len

Coe

. A

s it

falls

in a

ltitu

de a

nd d

ista

nce

is g

aine

d fro

m th

e A

82, t

he

feel

ing

of re

mot

enes

s an

d pe

acef

ulne

ss g

row

on

the

trave

ller a

nd th

is fe

elin

g is

epi

tom

ised

by

the

expe

rienc

e of

sce

nery

and

tran

quill

ity a

t the

hea

d of

Loc

h E

tive.

Th

ere

is n

ever

thel

ess

dram

a of

the

peak

s of

the

mid

dle

glen

whi

ch s

oar t

o ov

er a

thou

sand

met

ers

in li

ttle

time

from

the

loch

sho

re, b

ut th

eir g

entle

form

and

ser

enity

do

not p

erha

ps s

timul

ate

chal

leng

e an

d ad

vent

ure

as m

uch

as th

eir n

ear n

eigh

bour

s of

Gle

n C

oe.

Rat

her t

hey

dem

and

refle

ctiv

e ad

mira

tion,

and

a s

ense

that

thei

r pe

ace

shou

ld n

ot b

e di

stur

bed

with

out g

ood

caus

e. T

his

is re

mot

e co

untry

and

furth

er d

istu

rban

ce o

r exp

editi

on

wou

ld e

ngen

der f

eelin

gs o

f unn

eces

sary

tres

pass

.

105

Page 114: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e La

nd u

se is

ver

y lo

w in

tens

ity g

razi

ng, a

lthou

gh p

arts

of

the

mid

dle

glen

app

ear t

o be

man

aged

for t

rout

fish

ing

and

shoo

ting.

Apa

rt fro

m is

olat

ed in

divi

dual

gam

e ke

eper

s / w

arde

ns c

otta

ges

settl

emen

t is

extre

mel

y sp

arta

n, w

ith th

e m

ain

hunt

ing

lodg

e be

low

Inve

rcha

rnan

th

e on

ly b

uild

ing

of s

igni

fican

ce.

Rem

nant

s of

a la

ndin

g pi

er a

t the

hea

d of

the

loch

sug

gest

a m

ore

inte

nsiv

e le

vel

of a

ctiv

ity I

days

gon

e by

. Th

e gl

en is

cha

ract

eris

ed th

roug

hout

its

leng

th b

y a

swee

ping

, u-s

hape

d pr

ofile

of i

ts m

ount

ain

slop

es a

nd

roun

ded

but p

rono

unce

d pe

aks.

Th

e va

lley

side

s ar

e m

arke

d by

ste

ep, g

rey

rock

y st

ream

be

ds b

road

enin

g in

to ro

ck d

ebris

fans

at t

he lo

wer

ch

ange

s in

ste

epne

ss.

Text

ure

is p

rovi

ded

by th

e rip

pled

loch

sur

face

and

rock

y ou

tcro

ps a

nd e

xpos

ure

of th

e su

mm

its, b

ut th

e lo

wer

sl

opes

are

gen

eral

ly v

ery

smoo

th in

term

s of

land

form

an

d sh

ort g

rass

veg

etat

ion.

Onl

y th

e gi

lls o

f ste

ep

mou

ntai

n st

ream

-bed

s bi

sect

and

sub

divi

de th

ese

horiz

onta

lly d

ivid

ed e

xtre

mes

of t

extu

re a

nd p

atte

rn.

Col

our w

ithin

the

low

er g

len

is h

ighl

y in

fluen

ced

by th

e na

tura

l lig

ht a

nd re

flect

ion

ther

eof f

rom

the

loch

sur

face

. In

ligh

t con

ditio

ns th

e sl

opes

of t

he m

ount

ain

side

s ar

e br

ight

and

con

trast

ing

betw

een

thei

r gra

ssy

low

er s

lope

s an

d lig

ht g

rey

expo

sed

sum

mits

. H

owev

er p

assi

ng c

loud

ca

n pr

oduc

e gr

eat c

ontra

st o

f brig

htne

ss a

nd s

hado

w o

n th

e st

eep

side

d gl

en, f

latte

ning

the

deta

iled

relie

f and

af

ford

ing

a st

rikin

g el

emen

t of m

ovem

ent a

cros

s th

e sp

ace.

Ther

e is

an

alm

ost g

host

like

qual

ity a

nd a

mbi

ence

to th

e de

relic

t pie

r at t

he h

ead

of th

e lo

ch.

It is

eas

y to

env

isag

e th

e V

icto

rian

stea

mer

or t

ram

p pl

ough

ing

its w

ay u

p th

e w

ater

from

the

bust

le o

f Gla

sgow

to d

eliv

er m

uch

antic

ipat

ed s

uppl

ies

and

new

s to

the

isol

ated

gam

e ke

epin

g oc

cupa

nts

of th

e gl

en, p

artic

ular

ly in

ble

ak w

inte

r m

onth

s. H

ow it

mus

t hav

e ge

nera

ted

exci

tem

ent a

nd

hust

le in

this

mos

t tra

nqui

l of p

lace

s.

106

Page 115: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Ben

Nev

is a

nd G

len

Coe

NSA

– V

iew

poin

t / R

oute

: Loc

h Le

ven

O

bjec

tive

Ana

lysi

s Vi

sual

Ana

lysi

s Pe

rson

al R

espo

nse

An

inla

nd s

ea lo

ch w

ith e

xten

sive

set

tlem

ent c

onfin

ed to

a

narro

w fr

inge

of f

lat l

and

alon

gsid

e th

e lo

ch, s

quee

zed

betw

een

the

open

wat

er b

elow

and

ste

ep, o

ften

conc

ave,

lo

ch s

ides

abo

ve. T

his

was

form

ed a

s se

a le

vels

fell

afte

r th

e la

st Ic

e-A

ge.

The

long

, lin

ear,

narro

w,

fjord

-like

and

‘u’-s

hape

d lo

ch

pene

trate

s in

to a

nd c

ontra

sts

with

the

stee

p, o

ften

woo

ded

loch

sid

es ri

sing

ste

eply

to p

eaks

and

mor

e ro

unde

d m

ount

ains

abo

ve.

The

loch

is fr

amed

to th

e no

rth b

y th

e op

en m

oorla

nd o

f Th

e M

amor

es, w

hils

t to

the

sout

h th

e no

rther

n rid

ge o

f G

len

Coe

cre

ates

a n

atur

al v

iew

shed

. Th

e lo

ch h

ead

and

river

mou

ths

perm

it m

ore

exte

nsiv

e se

ttlem

ent a

nd d

evel

opm

ent o

n w

ider

are

as o

f fla

t lan

d,

such

as

at K

inlo

chle

ven

at th

e lo

ch h

ead

to th

e ea

st,

Nor

th B

alla

chul

ish

and

Sou

th B

alla

chul

ish

to th

e w

est,

and

Gle

ncoe

on

the

sout

h sh

ore

whe

re th

e R

iver

Coe

en

ters

the

loch

. Th

e B8

63 ru

ns a

roun

d th

e lo

ch a

nd jo

ins

the

mai

n A8

2 be

twee

n G

lenc

oe a

nd N

orth

Bal

lach

ulis

h, p

rovi

ding

a

cont

inuo

us c

omm

unic

atio

ns c

orrid

or li

nkin

g th

e m

ain

settl

emen

ts, o

ccas

iona

l hou

ses

and

othe

r lan

d us

es s

uch

as c

arav

an s

ites.

The

con

cent

ratio

n of

set

tlem

ents

al

ongs

ide

the

loch

is th

e hi

ghes

t with

in th

e w

hole

NS

A.

Land

cove

r with

in th

e vi

ewsh

ed is

mix

ed, w

ith s

moo

th

open

moo

rland

ridg

es, p

rom

inen

t pla

ntat

ions

, and

mix

ed

woo

dlan

d co

ntra

stin

g w

ith th

e op

en w

ater

. The

fore

shor

e is

div

erse

, with

peb

ble

beac

hes,

woo

ded

bank

s an

d m

ore

open

wet

land

are

as, a

nd is

sub

ject

to ti

dal i

nflu

ence

. O

ccas

iona

l des

igne

d or

nam

enta

l pla

ntin

g w

ithin

pol

icy

grou

nds

of i

ndiv

idua

l hou

ses

prov

ides

furth

er c

ontra

st.

This

is g

ener

ally

a m

ediu

m to

larg

e sc

ale

land

scap

e. T

he

gene

ral v

iew

shed

is e

xten

sive

dow

n th

e lo

ch, w

ith v

iew

s

fram

ed b

y th

e m

ount

ains

eith

er s

ide.

The

re is

gre

at

varia

tion

in d

epth

of v

iew

, how

ever

, som

etim

es c

onfin

ed

by s

teep

loch

sid

es a

nd o

ak –

birc

h w

oodl

and,

but

el

sew

here

mor

e ex

tens

ive

alon

g va

lleys

bet

wee

n th

e m

ount

ain

ridge

s.

In s

ome

area

s de

nse

woo

dlan

d ex

tend

s to

the

loch

sho

re,

fore

shor

teni

ng v

iew

s al

ong

the

loch

. Th

ere

are

very

dis

tinct

ive

fold

s in

the

land

scap

e,

prov

idin

g a

tiere

d ef

fect

whi

ch is

em

phas

ised

by

sunl

ight

an

d sh

ade.

The

cal

m w

ater

refle

cts

the

impo

sing

m

ount

ains

. M

an’s

influ

ence

is v

isua

lly a

ppar

ent t

hrou

ghou

t the

are

a,

for s

ettle

men

t, em

ploy

men

t, to

uris

m a

nd re

crea

tion.

W

hite

was

hed

build

ings

dot

the

shor

elin

e, b

ut a

ppea

r sm

all b

enea

th th

e va

st m

ount

ains

abo

ve. T

he lo

ch it

self

is

calm

and

she

ltere

d, q

ualit

ies

that

mak

e it

popu

lar f

or

saili

ng, a

nd fi

shin

g.

The

dist

inct

ive

brid

ge b

etw

een

Nor

th a

nd S

outh

Ba

llach

ulis

h at

the

seaw

ard

end

of th

e lo

ch is

a fe

atur

e in

th

e la

ndsc

ape

whi

ch a

dds

to th

e en

clos

ure

of th

e lo

ch.

This

is a

ver

y sc

enic

, pea

cefu

l lan

dsca

pe w

ith a

dra

mat

ic,

natu

ral b

ackd

rop

cont

rast

ing

shar

ply

with

the

settl

ed lo

ch

side

. M

ost p

eopl

e pr

obab

ly v

iew

the

loch

for t

he fi

rst t

ime

whe

n tra

velli

ng n

orth

war

ds, e

mer

ging

out

of t

he d

ram

atic

Gle

n C

oe in

to G

lenc

oe v

illag

e, fr

amed

by

the

loch

. The

vas

t ex

pans

e of

wat

er p

rovi

des

a w

elco

me

relie

f fro

m th

e ov

erbe

arin

g en

clos

ure

of th

e m

ount

ains

. M

oore

d pl

easu

re c

raft

bob

up a

nd d

own

on th

e w

ater

, pr

ovid

ing

site

s an

d so

unds

usu

ally

enc

ount

ered

at a

se

asid

e re

sort.

Bi

rd s

ong,

incl

udin

g se

a bi

rds,

the

whi

tew

ashe

d bu

ildin

gs

and

the

twin

klin

g of

nig

ht ti

me

light

ing

alon

g th

e lo

ch s

ide,

ad

d to

the

calm

ing

influ

ence

. M

ost v

isito

rs p

roba

bly

trave

l the

who

le 2

2 m

iles

arou

nd

the

loch

sin

ce th

is is

eas

y to

do,

and

mak

es a

ver

y pl

easa

nt ru

n fo

r the

cyc

list.

The

mor

e ad

vent

urou

s ca

n ta

ke to

the

hills

for a

n en

erge

tic, c

halle

ngin

g cl

imb

thro

ugh

one

of th

e w

oodl

ands

. The

ove

rall

expe

rienc

e is

th

at th

is is

a c

entre

for r

ecre

atio

n, a

nd a

pop

ular

bas

e fo

r a

varie

d ho

liday

. Acc

omm

odat

ion

rang

es fr

om c

amp

site

s to

larg

e ho

tels

.

107

Page 116: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Ben

Nev

is a

nd G

len

Coe

NSA

– V

iew

poin

t / R

oute

: Loc

h Tu

lla

O

bjec

tive

Ana

lysi

s Vi

sual

Ana

lysi

s Pe

rson

al R

espo

nse

The

sout

hern

-mos

t edg

e of

the

NS

A, j

ust n

orth

of B

ridge

of

Orc

hy, t

his

area

is c

entre

d ar

ound

the

shal

low

, set

tled

loch

bas

in. F

lat l

och-

side

gra

ssla

nd, g

ently

slo

ping

sm

ooth

moo

rland

and

mix

ed fo

rest

fram

e th

e lo

ch s

ide,

w

ith h

igh

peak

s an

d rid

ges

defin

ing

the

view

shed

. B

are

rock

and

scr

ee c

lose

to th

e to

p of

mor

e ro

unde

d hi

gh p

eaks

and

ridg

es c

ontra

st w

ith th

e ex

tens

ive

area

s of

flat

gra

ssla

nd, a

nd h

eath

er a

nd b

rack

en-c

over

ed

moo

rland

. For

ests

, whi

ch fo

rm p

art o

f the

man

aged

B

lack

mou

nt D

eer F

ores

t, co

mpr

ise

dist

inct

ive

Sco

ts P

ine

(rem

nant

Cal

edon

ian

Fore

st) w

ith e

xten

sive

are

as o

f pl

ante

d bi

rch

and

row

an.

The

area

is re

cogn

ised

inte

rnat

iona

lly fo

r its

var

iety

of

plan

ts a

nd a

nim

als,

incl

udin

g ra

re b

eetle

s an

d m

oths

. B

lack

Mou

nt is

a d

istin

ctiv

e, a

ttrac

tive,

larg

e lo

dge

set i

n w

ell-t

ende

d ga

rden

s al

ong

the

loch

sid

e. T

here

are

a fe

w

othe

r sm

alle

r lod

ges,

an

old

drov

e In

n an

d th

e In

vero

ran

Hot

el, s

ervi

ng th

e W

est H

ighl

and

Way

long

-dis

tanc

e fo

otpa

th w

hich

pas

ses

thro

ugh

the

area

. Thi

s fo

llow

s th

e ol

d pu

blic

road

and

sec

tions

of

the

Cau

lfiel

d M

ilitar

y R

oad,

the

sect

ion

betw

een

Brid

ge o

f Orc

hy a

nd In

vero

ran

bein

g a

sche

dule

d an

cien

t mon

umen

t.

The

tradi

tiona

l use

of h

ill la

nd fo

r dee

r man

agem

ent i

s ev

iden

t by

the

exte

nsiv

e de

er fe

ncin

g ar

ound

the

plan

tatio

ns, a

nd s

igns

war

ning

of d

eer s

talk

ing

by

shoo

ting

betw

een

mid

Aug

ust t

o m

id O

ctob

er.

Loch

Tul

la li

es a

djac

ent t

o th

e bu

sy A

82, t

he m

ain

tour

ist

rout

e to

For

t Willi

am a

nd b

eyon

d, b

ut is

larg

ely

unaf

fect

ed

by it

. The

road

follo

ws

the

toe

of th

e hu

ge B

einn

an

Dot

haid

h an

d Be

inn

Dor

ain

rang

e w

hich

lie

to th

e so

uth-

east

just

out

side

the

NS

A. T

he ra

ilway

and

old

milit

ary

road

als

o fo

llow

this

rout

e, s

quee

zing

bet

wee

n th

e m

ount

ains

and

the

Riv

er O

rchy

whi

ch fe

eds

into

the

loch

. A

sur

face

d, n

arro

w ro

ad w

ith p

assi

ng p

lace

s ru

ns a

long

th

e so

uthe

rn a

nd w

este

rn e

dges

of t

he lo

ch, b

etw

een

Brid

ge o

f Orc

hy a

nd a

car

par

k at

Vic

toria

Brid

ge.

Ther

eafte

r veh

icle

s ar

e no

t allo

wed

with

out p

erm

issi

on o

f th

e B

lack

mou

nt M

anag

emen

t Par

tner

ship

. W

alke

rs a

long

the

Wes

t Hig

hlan

d W

ay a

re m

ore

frequ

ently

see

n th

an v

ehic

les.

An

inte

rpre

tatio

n bo

ard

at

the

Vic

toria

Brid

ge C

ar P

ark

iden

tifie

s fo

otpa

ths

and

off-

road

cyc

le ro

utes

. Th

e vi

ewsh

ed fo

r thi

s ar

ea is

rela

tivel

y tig

htly

dra

wn

arou

nd th

e lo

ch, b

ut it

is a

n ar

ea o

f gre

at v

isua

l con

trast

, pr

obab

ly m

ore

so th

an a

ny o

ther

are

a w

ithin

the

NS

A.

The

scal

e, o

penn

ess

and

dive

rsity

of v

iew

s ar

e m

ixed

. Th

e la

rge

scal

e, e

xpos

ed, e

xten

sive

vie

ws

acro

ss th

e lo

ch c

ontra

st w

ith th

e m

uch

smal

ler s

cale

, mor

e in

timat

e sc

ale

of th

e fo

rest

s an

d pl

anta

tions

whi

ch o

ffer s

helte

r an

d di

vers

ity.

Con

sequ

ently

, col

our a

nd te

xtur

e w

ithin

the

land

scap

e of

th

is a

rea

is v

arie

d, d

ue to

the

varie

ty o

f veg

etat

ion

cove

r.

The

dive

rse

land

form

and

land

cove

r with

in th

is la

ndsc

ape

offe

r a re

fresh

ing,

ple

asin

g ch

ange

to o

ther

mor

e re

mot

e or

sim

ple

parts

of t

he N

SA

. Th

is is

not

an

awes

ome,

cha

lleng

ing

or d

ram

atic

la

ndsc

ape

as s

ome

othe

r are

as o

f the

NS

A a

re. I

t is

mor

e of

a c

omfo

rting

, int

eres

ting,

rela

tivel

y pe

acef

ul a

rea.

Th

e ar

ea is

wel

l use

d by

peo

ple,

par

ticul

arly

wal

kers

, gi

ving

it a

hum

an p

ersp

ectiv

e. E

vide

nce

of o

n-go

ing

man

agem

ent i

n th

e fo

rm o

f fen

cing

, sig

ns a

nd

inte

rpre

tatio

n, d

o no

t det

ract

from

the

natu

ral

char

acte

ristic

s.

108

Page 117: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Ben

Nev

is a

nd G

len

Coe

NSA

– V

iew

scap

e: M

eall

Bea

g an

d B

en N

evis

Ski

Ran

ge

Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e H

igh

mou

ntai

n m

assi

f, m

oor a

nd d

eep

mou

ntai

n va

lley.

M

assi

ve ro

unde

d su

mm

its w

ith ru

gged

cor

rie a

nd ri

dge

lyin

g be

low

sum

mit

heig

ht.

This

is a

wid

e op

en

land

scap

e w

hich

thro

ugh

abse

nce

of s

igni

fican

t dra

ma

actu

ally

mas

ks it

s no

tabl

e el

evat

ion.

Ext

ensi

ve v

ista

s ar

e en

joye

d fa

r bey

ond

the

NS

A it

self

acro

ss F

ort W

illiam

, Lo

ch L

innh

e, th

e G

reat

Gle

n an

d di

stan

t pea

ks e

xten

ding

as

far a

s th

e C

ullin

s of

Sky

e.

Slo

pes

from

the

foot

of t

he m

ount

ain

(and

clo

se to

the

NS

A b

ound

ary)

rise

in s

wat

hes

of r

elat

ivel

y un

iform

and

co

nsis

tent

ang

le, b

efor

e be

com

ing

mor

e co

nvex

tow

ards

th

e u

pper

reac

hes.

The

dee

p ev

en s

ided

inci

sion

of A

llt

Dai

m is

a p

rom

inen

t rift

in th

e ro

unde

d m

ount

ain

mas

sif,

and

prov

ides

for c

onst

ant n

oise

of m

ovin

g w

ater

s.

Veg

etat

ion

is p

redo

min

antly

that

of g

rass

es a

nd h

eath

er

moo

rland

, giv

ing

way

to ro

cky

expo

sure

s to

the

sum

mits

. B

ould

er a

nd s

tone

fiel

ds a

re e

xten

sive

. S

now

rem

ains

in

sum

mer

tim

e in

hig

h no

rth fa

cing

cor

ries.

For a

ll its

mas

s an

d el

evat

ion

this

is a

rela

tivel

y si

mpl

e, if

m

assi

ve la

ndsc

ape.

How

ever

vie

ws

out o

f the

NS

A

prim

arily

dra

w th

e ey

e an

d ar

e co

mpl

ex a

nd v

arie

d as

w

ell a

s va

st.

The

elev

atio

n of

the

view

poin

t, ra

ther

than

th

e im

med

iate

topo

grap

hy a

fford

an

expe

rienc

e of

ex

posu

re, b

ut th

is is

ver

y m

uch

dilu

ted

by th

e pr

esen

ce

of o

ther

peo

ple

at th

is re

cogn

ised

vie

wpo

int a

nd it

s ea

se

of a

cces

s vi

a sk

i-lift

. Th

e m

ain

cont

rast

s w

ithin

the

NS

A fr

om th

is v

iew

poin

t is

the

trans

ition

from

the

very

sim

ple

stea

dily

risi

ng g

rass

m

oorla

nd s

lope

s in

to b

ould

er fi

eld

and

dram

atic

cor

rie

and

crag

. H

owev

er th

is ru

gged

ness

is n

ot ty

pica

l of t

he

wid

er s

ettin

g, w

hich

des

pite

its

heig

ht is

sm

ooth

and

ro

unde

d, g

ener

ally

dev

oid

of in

tere

st o

r foc

us p

oint

s.

Col

our w

ithin

the

NS

A is

mut

ed, s

ubdu

ed s

hade

s of

m

ergi

ng b

row

ns a

nd g

reen

s, w

ith a

gen

eral

ly s

moo

th

surfa

ce a

s fa

r as

topo

grap

hy is

con

cern

ed, w

ith a

slig

ht

text

urin

g pr

oduc

ed b

y th

e m

oorla

nd v

eget

atio

n an

d oc

casi

onal

bou

lder

. A

t hig

her e

leva

tions

the

trans

ition

to

boul

der a

nd s

tone

fiel

d an

d ou

tcro

p af

ford

s a

stro

ng

inte

rject

ion

of li

ght a

nd d

ark

grey

col

ours

with

in th

e la

ndsc

ape.

The

acce

ssib

ility

of t

he v

iew

poin

t at o

nce

affo

rds

acce

ss

to h

igh

mou

ntai

n ex

perie

nce

to a

wid

e va

riety

of a

ges

and

abili

ties

and

thus

is a

n ex

perie

nce

man

y w

ill e

njoy

an

d sa

vour

. Th

e vi

ews

are

stup

endo

us.

How

ever

, in

com

paris

on to

man

y ot

her u

plan

d ar

eas

or m

ount

ains

in

Brita

in th

is is

a c

row

ded

and

desp

oile

d vi

sual

and

pe

rson

al e

xper

ienc

e. T

he b

usyn

ess

dead

ens

the

high

m

ount

ain

expo

sure

and

the

acce

ss v

ia s

ki-li

ft re

mov

es

any

sens

e of

ach

ieve

men

t in

reac

hing

rela

tivel

y si

gnifi

cant

hei

ght.

Mor

eove

r, th

e vi

stas

to th

e su

mm

it of

B

en N

evis

furth

er d

imin

ishe

s th

e va

lue

of th

is v

isua

lly

quite

unr

emar

kabl

e su

mm

it, n

ot p

artic

ular

ly s

peci

al o

ther

th

an it

s un

surp

asse

d el

evat

ion.

Thi

s is

not

a s

ite o

f hig

h m

ount

ain

ende

avou

r or a

dven

ture

. H

ere

the

perc

eptio

n an

d ex

perie

nce

is s

urel

y sh

aped

by

the

othe

r mou

ntai

n ex

perie

nce

of th

e vi

sito

r. H

owev

er th

e el

evat

ion

of th

e si

te is

rein

forc

ed w

hen

view

s ou

t of t

he N

SA

are

enj

oyed

, and

whe

n th

e w

eath

er

affo

rds

it, g

limps

es o

f the

Cul

lins

are

a fin

e tre

at to

thos

e w

ho u

nder

stan

d th

eir p

artic

ular

gra

ndeu

r and

cha

lleng

e.

It is

per

haps

iron

ic th

at w

ithin

a re

lativ

ely

mod

est

dist

ance

from

the

sum

mit

of B

ritai

ns h

ighe

st p

eak,

the

grea

t attr

actio

n lie

s in

vie

ws

in th

e op

posi

te d

irect

ions

.

109

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Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e La

nd u

se is

ver

y lo

w in

tens

ity g

razi

ng b

ut th

ere

is a

co

ncen

tratio

n of

leis

ure

activ

ity, p

rimar

ily fo

cuse

d to

ou

tdoo

r pur

suits

of w

inte

r spo

rts a

nd m

ount

ain

biki

ng, a

s w

ell a

s w

alki

ng.

Infra

stru

ctur

e fo

r the

se a

ctiv

ities

in th

e fo

rm o

f ski

-lifts

, mou

ntai

n ce

ntre

/caf

é, p

aths

and

de

linea

ted

pist

es a

re o

bvio

us.

The

top

of th

e lif

ts s

ees

a fo

cus

for v

isito

rs e

ven

in s

umm

er a

nd a

fford

s th

e ve

ry

youn

g an

d th

e el

derly

exp

osur

e to

hig

h m

ount

ain

expe

rienc

e an

d vi

stas

. Con

cent

ratio

n of

vis

itor p

ress

ure

and

pres

ence

of p

eopl

e is

mar

ked.

Th

e w

ider

land

scap

e, p

artic

ular

ly a

t hig

her e

leva

tions

is

othe

rwis

e de

void

of m

an m

ade

inte

rfere

nce.

This

is a

land

scap

e of

few

dis

tinct

feat

ures

and

ther

efor

e th

e sk

i inf

rast

ruct

ure,

lifts

, pi

ste

fenc

ing

and

build

ings

are

re

lativ

ely

stro

ng fe

atur

es in

the

setti

ng.

This

sim

ple

land

scap

e is

par

adox

ical

ly o

ne o

f sig

nific

ant b

usyn

ess,

be

lyin

g its

ele

vatio

n.

Nev

erth

eles

s, th

e vi

ewer

is e

xtre

mel

y cl

ose

to d

ram

atic

up

land

land

scap

e an

d ch

alle

nge

whi

ch w

ould

requ

ire

only

a s

hort

trave

l fro

m th

e vi

ewsh

ed, b

ut s

eem

s to

at

tract

few

to d

o so

.

110

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Ben

Nev

is a

nd G

len

Coe

NSA

– V

iew

poin

t: R

anno

ch M

oor

O

bjec

tive

Ana

lysi

s Vi

sual

Ana

lysi

s Pe

rson

al R

espo

nse

A ro

ughl

y le

vel p

late

au a

t app

roxi

mat

ely

1000

ft,

com

pris

ing

of d

ark,

hum

moc

ky p

eat m

oorla

nd, d

otte

d w

ith

innu

mer

able

loch

s, lo

chan

s an

d bo

gs, j

oine

d by

an

intri

cate

web

of m

inor

stre

ams.

The

are

a fo

r the

mos

t par

t ov

erlie

s gr

anite

. Th

is is

the

wat

ersh

ed o

f cen

tral S

cotla

nd, w

here

rive

rs

star

t the

ir jo

urne

ys to

war

ds th

e A

tlant

ic in

the

wes

t and

to

the

Nor

th S

ea in

the

east

. Th

ousa

nds

of h

uge

rock

s, to

rn fr

om h

illsid

es a

nd c

orrie

s by

a g

iant

gla

cier

mov

ing

east

war

ds s

ome

20,0

00 y

ears

ag

o, a

re s

catte

red

thro

ugho

ut th

e ar

ea. O

ccas

iona

l sm

all

trees

, ben

t and

gna

rled

by th

e w

ind,

lie

amon

gst t

he

boul

ders

. To

the

north

, Ran

noch

Moo

r is

surro

unde

d by

gra

nite

m

ount

ains

that

rise

to o

ver 2

000f

t, w

hils

t to

the

wes

t and

so

uthe

ast t

hey

reac

h m

ore

than

300

0ft.

Th

e N

SA b

ound

ary

follo

ws

the

north

ern

and

east

ern

side

s of

thi

s un

ique

land

scap

e, w

hich

is s

hape

d ro

ughl

y as

an

inve

rted

trian

gle,

sto

od o

n its

ape

x. A

chal

lade

r m

arks

the

sout

hern

tip,

Ran

noch

Sta

tion

the

north

ea

ster

n tip

of t

he tr

iang

le, a

nd th

e ju

nctio

n of

the

A82

and

G

len

Etiv

e m

arks

the

north

wes

tern

tip.

Th

e ra

ilway

line

bet

wee

n Br

idge

of O

rchy

and

Ran

noch

S

tatio

n fo

llow

s th

e ea

ster

n bo

unda

ry o

f R

anno

ch M

oor,

whi

lst t

he A

82 ru

ns a

littl

e in

side

the

sout

h w

este

rn s

ide

of

this

tria

ngul

ar a

rea.

Th

e ar

ea c

an o

nly

be c

ross

ed fr

om e

ast t

o w

est b

y fo

ot. A

10

mile

trac

k lin

ks R

anno

ck S

tatio

n w

ith th

e K

ings

Hou

se

Hot

el o

n th

e A

82. T

he h

otel

is a

wel

com

e st

op o

ver f

or

wal

kers

on

the

Wes

t Hig

hlan

d W

ay lo

ng d

ista

nce

foot

path

, whi

ch ru

ns ju

st b

eyon

d th

e so

uth-

wes

tern

sid

e of

the

area

.

The

visu

al c

hara

cter

istic

s of

this

uni

que

area

are

di

stin

ctiv

e in

thei

r ow

n rig

ht, b

ut th

e co

ntra

st w

ith th

e sp

ecta

cula

r mou

ntai

ns to

the

north

, sou

th-e

ast,

and

parti

cula

rly th

e w

est p

rovi

de a

n un

forg

etta

ble

setti

ng.

This

is a

vas

t, ex

tens

ive,

exp

osed

, and

ess

entia

lly s

impl

e la

ndsc

ape.

Th

e m

oor c

omes

to a

n ab

rupt

con

clus

ion

at th

e ju

nctio

n of

the

A82

and

Gle

n E

tive,

whi

ch is

spe

ctac

ular

ly m

arke

d by

the

rock

y py

ram

id o

f Buc

haille

Etiv

e M

or a

t the

en

tranc

e to

Gle

n C

oe.

The

road

, saf

ety

barri

ers

and

othe

r inf

rast

ruct

ure

incl

udin

g sn

ow p

oles

alo

ngsi

de th

e ro

ad, a

re th

e on

ly

man

-mad

e fe

atur

es a

cros

s th

e ar

ea. T

raffi

c m

ovem

ent

and

nois

e do

det

ract

from

the

rem

oten

ess,

alth

ough

this

im

pact

is o

nly

real

ly e

vide

nt c

lose

to th

e ro

ad.

Cle

aran

ce o

f a s

ole

plan

tatio

n by

bur

ning

is e

vide

nce

of

succ

essf

ul m

anag

emen

t to

reta

in th

e ch

arac

ter o

f the

la

ndsc

ape.

If on

e’s

emot

iona

l res

pons

e to

the

Sco

ttish

land

scap

e de

pend

s on

the

wea

ther

, Ran

noch

Moo

r is

an e

xtre

me

exam

ple

of th

is.

To m

ost p

eopl

e th

eir f

irst g

limps

e of

Ran

noch

Moo

r is

whe

n dr

ivin

g no

rth fr

om B

ridge

of O

rchy

, as

the

road

sw

eeps

up

to th

e m

oorla

nd p

late

au. W

hat i

s fo

und

ther

e,

and

wha

t per

sona

l exp

erie

nces

are

felt,

dep

ends

on

the

wea

ther

. W

hen

shro

uded

in m

ist o

r driv

ing

rain

or s

now

, thi

s is

a

wild

and

rem

ote

land

scap

e to

be

pass

ing

thro

ugh,

and

an

espe

cial

ly te

rrify

ing

wild

erne

ss fo

r a lo

nely

wal

ker.

A se

emin

gly

endl

ess

laby

rinth

of h

azar

dous

rout

es o

ffer

peril

at e

ach

step

. A p

lace

of w

onde

r, pr

obab

ly o

ne o

f the

la

st re

ally

wild

pla

ces

in S

cotla

nd.

In g

ood

wea

ther

, how

ever

, with

the

sun

on y

our b

ack

or

shin

ing

thro

ugh

the

win

dscr

een,

the

shim

mer

ing

loch

s,

gras

s an

d pu

rple

hea

ther

wav

ing

in a

gen

tle b

reez

e, w

ith

pano

ram

ic v

iew

s to

war

ds th

e up

land

s be

yond

, pro

vide

a

uniq

ue, u

nfor

getta

ble

expe

rienc

e.

111

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Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al A

naly

sis

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e Th

e ra

re, d

elic

ate,

Ran

noch

Rus

h is

foun

d no

-whe

re e

lse

in B

ritai

n, a

nd it

s ha

bita

t is

prot

ecte

d as

a S

ite o

f Spe

cial

S

cien

tific

Inte

rest

(SS

SI).

Oth

er fl

ora

of in

tere

st in

clud

e th

e sw

eet s

mel

ling

bog-

myr

tle.

The

loch

s on

the

moo

r are

goo

d fo

r tro

ut, w

hile

bla

ck-

thro

ated

div

er, g

oosa

nder

and

mer

gans

er a

re a

ttrac

ted

to

the

num

erou

s is

lets

. Hig

her u

p, m

ount

ain

hare

and

red

deer

may

be

spot

ted,

and

eve

n go

lden

eag

le a

nd o

spre

y.

112

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15

113

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16

114

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Ben Nevis and Glen Coe National Scenic Area. Historical, Cultural Associations and Other Background Information

The Glen Coe Massacre The grandeur and drama of the NSA is undeniable and irresistible, and modern development seems not have diluted this great scenery. However the village of Glencoe at the foot of the glen itself carries with it a history of betrayal and massacre which remains pertinent to the area’s character and ambience to this day. The cowardly murder of the 38 of the Clan Macdonald in 1692 by order of the crown, and the subsequent loss of life of women and children from exposure after the King’s soldiers had lodged within the village for several nights to this day engenders feelings of sorrow and disquiet, for the soldiers ordered to carry out the massacre were in part of the Clan Campbell, fellow highlanders. Whilst infamous for the massacre the glen also carries with it legend of cattle rustling and banditry between clans and government, secret refuges in hidden valleys and tales of incredible hardship. All weave together with the scenery of the area to present a dramatic and fascinating experience to the visitor. The Highland Clearances The effects of the Highland Clearances denuded the glens of the bulk of their population and the remains of their sheilings can still be seen in Glencoe.

Film Locations The spectacular scenery of Glen Coe and Loch Leven has provided the backdrop for some famous films. Scenes in Braveheart, Rob Roy, Bonnie Prince Charlie, Highlander, Master of Ballantrae, Monty Python and the Holy Grail, The 39 Steps, Harry Potter and Kidnapped were filmed around the Glencoe area.

115

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116

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A

PPEN

DIX

3

FI

ELD

WO

RK

OU

TPU

TS

KN

APD

ALE

NA

TIO

NA

L SC

ENIC

AR

EA

117

Page 126: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

1. K

napd

ale

NSA

– B

ridge

nd

Obj

ectiv

e

Vi

sual

Emot

iona

lA

flat

val

ley

of fl

oodp

lain

gra

ssla

nd w

ith a

sin

uous

rive

r.

Slo

pes

stee

pen

to a

hig

her r

idge

that

form

s th

e ho

rizon

lin

e.

No

furth

er ri

dges

are

in v

iew

bey

ond.

La

nd u

se is

mos

tly p

asto

ral,

with

the

low

er s

lope

s in

dica

ting

a m

ore

impr

oved

pas

ture

and

the

stee

per

slop

es b

eing

of r

ough

gra

zing

. T

he h

ighe

r par

ts

tow

ards

the

ridge

mer

ge in

to c

onife

rous

pla

ntat

ion,

with

a

few

rock

exp

osur

es a

t the

ver

y to

p of

the

ridge

. Th

is a

rea

is c

lose

to 2

villa

ges,

one

of w

hich

, Brid

gend

, fa

lls w

ithin

the

NS

A b

ound

ary.

B

ridge

nd c

onsi

sts

mai

nly

of m

oder

n bu

ngal

ows,

bot

h gr

ey a

nd w

hite

in

colo

ur.

An

occa

sion

al c

otta

ge is

nes

tled

into

the

slop

e.

Mai

n fe

atur

es o

f the

vie

w a

re th

e tre

e lin

ed ri

ver t

hat

mea

nder

s th

roug

h th

e ba

sin,

alth

ough

unl

ess

clos

e to

th

e riv

er it

self

is n

ot in

vie

w, b

ut ra

ther

its

line

is g

iven

aw

ay b

y th

e rip

aria

n tre

es, a

nd th

e ex

pans

e of

low

flat

gr

azin

g la

nd.

It is

a ty

pica

l riv

er b

asin

farm

land

la

ndsc

ape.

S

ome

stra

ight

and

sta

rk e

dges

are

see

n w

ith th

e co

nife

rous

blo

cks,

and

furth

er d

istin

ctiv

e lin

es

are

mar

ked

by fi

eld

boun

dary

tree

s an

d fe

nces

. T

here

is

the

occa

sion

al s

tone

wal

l, bu

t hed

ges

are

abse

nt.

A m

ediu

m s

cale

vie

w, b

ut o

ne th

at is

rela

tivel

y en

clos

ed

by th

e ne

ar ri

dges

. T

hese

ridg

es fo

rm th

e ho

rizon

line

ar

e fu

rther

ridg

es c

anno

t be

seen

. T

he v

iew

is e

nclo

sed

by th

e ar

c of

Bla

ck H

ill an

d A

chna

shel

lach

ridg

es.

The

view

is v

arie

d, a

nd h

as s

ome

text

ural

var

iatio

ns,

parti

cula

rly fr

om th

e ja

gged

con

ifers

to th

e gr

assl

and.

Se

ason

al v

aria

tion

is li

kely

to b

e se

en m

ost i

n th

e lin

e of

br

oadl

eave

d tre

e sp

ecie

s th

at m

ark

the

mea

nder

of t

he

river

thro

ugh

the

valle

y bo

ttom

. T

he v

iew

take

n in

su

mm

er o

ffers

a m

ix o

f gre

en s

hade

s fro

m th

e ye

llow

gr

een

gras

slan

d to

the

dark

gre

en c

onife

rs.

Oth

er

colo

urs

are

larg

ely

abse

nt.

The

stro

nges

t vis

ual l

ines

, and

lead

ers

arou

nd th

e vi

ew,

are

the

stra

ight

edg

es to

the

coni

fer p

lant

atio

ns, t

he ri

ver

mea

nder

, the

sky

line

agai

nst t

he ri

dge

and

then

the

field

bo

unda

ries

and

mos

aic

of p

astu

res

offe

r sec

onda

ry a

nd

mor

e de

taile

d lin

es.

The

area

is c

lose

to s

ettle

men

ts, s

o a

gene

ral

back

grou

nd o

f noi

se is

pre

sent

, but

not

sig

nific

ant.

Bi

rdso

ng is

not

icea

ble

and

varie

d, in

clud

ing

song

thru

sh

and

blac

kbird

as

wel

l as

the

typi

cal o

pen

gras

slan

d sp

ecie

s.

A pa

stor

al a

gric

ultu

ral v

alle

y –

an e

ssen

tially

‘wor

king

la

ndsc

ape.

’ It

is s

helte

red

and

plea

sant

, and

typi

cal o

f th

e sc

enic

vie

ws

of a

n A

rgyl

l pas

tora

l riv

er v

alle

y.

Whi

lst n

ot p

artic

ular

ly s

peci

al in

itse

lf, th

e m

ain

func

tion

of th

is a

rea

is it

s en

clos

ure

and

back

drop

for M

òine

M

hór.

The

enc

losu

re fu

nctio

n of

the

ridge

s pr

ovid

es a

n ob

viou

s bo

unda

ry li

ne fo

r the

NS

A.

The

addi

tion

of th

is a

rea

of ‘w

orki

ng la

ndsc

ape’

co

mpl

imen

ts th

e re

st o

f the

nor

ther

n en

d of

this

NS

A,

whi

ch h

as n

umer

ous

hum

an in

fluen

ces

and

hist

oric

ev

iden

ce o

f use

. A

clo

se u

p vi

ew o

f thi

s ar

ea, t

aken

from

the

road

brid

ge,

take

s th

e ey

e up

the

river

itse

lf, w

hich

then

lead

s th

e vi

ewer

into

the

scen

e an

d up

the

gent

le s

lope

s to

the

horiz

on li

ne.

118

Page 127: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

2. K

napd

ale

NSA

– A

bove

Aird

Ran

ich

on th

e ea

st c

oast

road

of L

och

Swee

n, b

elow

Dal

tote

Cot

tage

(at t

he m

ilest

one)

O

bjec

tive

Visu

alEm

otio

nal

The

imm

edia

te v

iew

is o

f gra

zing

land

on

the

low

er

grou

nd a

nd w

oodl

and

on th

e hi

gher

slo

pes.

Fr

om th

is

imm

edia

te v

iew

the

eye

is ta

ken

acro

ss th

e fla

t exp

anse

of

Loc

h S

wee

n an

d th

en o

ver t

o th

e lo

wer

ridg

es o

f D

anna

. Th

e lo

ch s

urfa

ce is

ext

ensi

ve, a

nd fr

om th

e sm

all a

rea

of

rock

y sh

ore

the

land

cov

er is

gra

zing

land

and

br

oadl

eave

d w

oodl

and.

B

rack

en is

pre

sent

in la

rge

swat

hes.

Th

ere

are

occa

sion

al c

otta

ges

and

smal

l fa

rms

alon

g th

e ro

ad.

The

skyl

ine

of d

ista

nt ri

dges

bey

ond

the

loch

and

the

smal

l isl

ands

dot

ted

on th

e sm

ooth

loch

sur

face

, alo

ng

with

the

intim

ate

area

of r

ocky

sho

re in

lets

are

impo

rtant

fe

atur

es.

Thi

s pa

rticu

lar v

iew

is g

iven

add

ed in

tere

st b

y th

e lin

es o

f par

alle

l rid

ges

that

hea

d on

to th

e lo

ch

wat

ers.

The

view

is h

arm

onio

us, w

ith th

e on

ly c

ontra

st b

eing

be

twee

n th

e fla

t gre

y/bl

ue lo

ch w

ater

, whi

ch is

gla

ssy

and

still

, and

the

varie

ty o

f tex

ture

s an

d co

lour

s fo

und

inla

nd w

ithin

the

hills

ides

. Th

e ge

nera

l sca

le o

f vie

w is

med

ium

, with

a g

reat

er

open

ness

vie

wed

in th

e di

stan

ce o

ver t

he lo

ch.

The

lo

ch is

ope

n an

exp

osed

, whi

lst t

he g

razi

ng la

nd a

nd

woo

ded

slop

es is

med

ium

in s

cale

. T

he ro

ad it

self

is

secl

uded

with

som

e tig

ht e

nclo

ses

for l

ong

stre

tche

s of

th

e jo

urne

y al

ong

Loch

Sw

een.

Th

e vi

ew is

div

erse

, bot

h in

feat

ures

, col

our a

nd te

xtur

e.

Line

s w

ithin

the

view

incl

ude

the

horiz

onta

l lin

e of

the

loch

, far

ridg

es o

n th

e ho

rizon

line

and

in th

e ne

ar

dist

ance

the

para

llel r

idge

s dr

owni

ng in

to th

e lo

ch.

View

ed o

n a

sunn

y da

y th

e ar

ea is

ple

asan

t, ca

lm a

nd

still.

It

is a

ntic

ipat

ed th

at th

e lo

ch w

ould

be

very

ex

pose

d an

d w

indy

in b

ad w

eath

er.

The

vario

us b

oats

dot

ted

on th

e lo

ch a

dd in

tere

st a

nd

mov

emen

t.

The

loch

is o

pen

and

expo

sed,

and

its

tidal

nat

ure

give

s a

feel

ing

of b

eing

clo

se to

the

sea.

Th

e im

med

iate

are

a is

ple

asan

t, sh

elte

red,

qui

et a

nd

calm

. T

he s

mal

ler s

cale

of t

he im

med

iate

are

a is

in

tere

stin

g an

d vi

sual

ly a

ttrac

tive

with

the

drow

ned

ridge

s.

The

shor

elin

e is

invi

ting

and

easi

ly a

cces

sed

from

the

road

. T

he fe

elin

g of

bei

ng c

lose

to a

rock

y sh

ore

adds

an

opp

ortu

nity

for e

xplo

ratio

n am

ongs

t the

rock

s.

Ther

e is

a d

efin

ite ‘p

enin

sula

’ fee

ling.

Tr

avel

ling

dow

n th

e ro

ad le

aves

the

view

er in

crea

sing

ly d

ista

nt fr

om th

e m

ain

land

mas

s.

Ther

e is

a s

trong

ele

men

t of t

rave

lling

to a

n en

d po

int.

As

this

jour

ney

to th

e en

d of

the

peni

nsul

a is

mad

e, th

ere

are

‘sur

pris

e vi

ews’

of t

he lo

ch

as th

e ro

ad e

mer

ges

from

the

trees

. T

he ro

ad c

hang

es

in e

leva

tion,

so

som

e vi

ews

are

abov

e th

e lo

ch w

hils

t ot

hers

em

erge

ver

y cl

ose

to th

e sh

ore,

all

of w

hich

add

s to

the

jour

ney

and

the

feel

ing

of e

xpec

tatio

n.

119

Page 128: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

3. K

napd

ale

NSA

– B

alim

ore

– lo

okin

g no

rth

tow

ards

par

alle

l rid

ges

Obj

ectiv

e

Vi

sual

Emot

iona

lTh

e la

ndfo

rm is

of u

ndul

atin

g ro

cky

ridge

s, w

ith s

teep

ba

re ro

ck a

nd h

eath

er p

atch

es.

The

low

er v

alle

ys a

re

roug

h gr

azin

g la

nd.

Atla

ntic

oak

woo

dlan

d in

the

mid

dle

slop

es ru

ns a

long

bu

rns

and

at th

e ba

ses

of th

e ba

re ro

ck o

utcr

ops.

H

eath

er a

nd b

rack

en c

over

is th

e m

ain

aspe

ct o

f the

up

per s

lope

s be

low

the

verti

cal r

ock

slab

s.

Gra

ssy

moo

rland

on

the

low

er s

lope

s ev

entu

ally

lead

s to

rush

an

d co

tton

gras

s pa

tche

s in

the

low

est l

ying

par

ts.

The

area

is fe

nced

and

is m

ainl

y pr

ivat

e es

tate

.

Set

tlem

ent i

s la

rgel

y ab

sent

whe

n a

view

to th

e no

rth u

p th

e pa

ralle

l rid

ges

is ta

ken.

S

ome

cotta

ges

and

clus

ters

of

hol

iday

hom

es a

re p

rese

nt a

littl

e fu

rther

bac

k up

the

road

. S

peci

fic fe

atur

es in

clud

e th

e cr

aggy

sky

line

of th

e pa

ralle

l rid

ges,

whi

ch is

a v

arie

d an

d in

dent

ed li

ne. L

ittle

ca

rpet

s of

flow

erin

g co

tton

gras

ses

in th

e lo

w ly

ing

parts

ad

d de

tail

to th

e un

dula

ting

roug

h gr

assl

and.

Br

oadl

eave

d w

oodl

and

flow

s ar

ound

the

stee

per s

lope

s an

d do

wn

the

clef

ts o

f bur

ns.

Sm

all r

uine

d bu

ildin

gs in

dica

te a

form

er o

ccup

atio

n of

th

e la

nd.

A c

ompl

ex la

yerin

g of

ver

tical

rock

y sl

abs

at th

e to

p of

th

e rid

ges,

follo

wed

by

patc

hes

of h

eath

er a

nd th

en th

e At

lant

ic o

ak w

oodl

and

wra

pped

aro

und

the

slop

es.

B

rack

en d

omin

ates

at t

his

leve

l whe

re w

oodl

and

is

abse

nt.

Rou

gh g

razi

ng th

en c

ontin

ues

into

the

low

er

area

s th

at e

vent

ually

gra

des

into

rush

y pa

stur

e in

the

low

est p

arts

. T

his

laye

ring

is n

ot p

reci

se, a

nd e

ach

laye

r pus

hes

up a

nd p

ast t

he o

ther

in p

lace

s.

This

cr

eate

s a

flow

of l

ines

and

inte

rest

. It

is c

lear

that

the

gras

slan

d is

in tr

ansi

tion,

and

that

br

acke

n is

enc

roac

hing

. T

hese

sta

nds

are

fairl

y ne

w

beca

use

the

typi

cal b

uild

up

of b

rack

en li

tter w

ith m

ore

mat

ure

stan

ds is

abs

ent f

rom

this

are

a.

The

scal

e of

the

view

is m

ediu

m a

nd is

fairl

y op

en in

na

ture

. D

iver

sity

is la

rgel

y du

e to

the

fold

ed la

yers

of

vege

tatio

n ty

pes

desc

ribed

abo

ve, w

hich

als

o ad

d a

good

var

iety

of c

olou

r, w

ith g

rey

rock

, pur

ple

heat

her

and

brig

ht g

reen

bra

cken

. T

he ja

gged

sky

line

is th

e m

ost d

ram

atic

feat

ure.

Th

ere

is li

ttle

to d

istu

rb th

e qu

iet a

nd s

tilln

ess

of th

e sc

ene.

A

ll so

unds

are

nat

ural

and

ther

e is

con

side

rabl

e ca

lm.

The

scen

e is

invi

ting

a da

y’s

expl

orat

ion

with

the

varie

ty

of s

lope

s an

d un

dula

tions

cre

atin

g un

seen

cor

ners

be

yond

. T

he s

cene

is n

ot d

ram

atic

or e

xhila

ratin

g,

desp

ite th

e la

rger

ridg

es, b

ut ra

ther

gen

tly ro

lling,

and

m

ore

rem

ote

and

sem

i nat

ural

that

oth

er a

reas

with

in th

e N

SA

that

hav

e st

rong

er h

uman

influ

ence

s.

The

scen

e is

inte

rest

ing,

with

woo

dlan

d ge

ntly

lapp

ing

up to

hig

her c

rags

, and

it is

like

ly th

at th

e w

oodl

and

has

been

a lo

ng s

tand

ing

feat

ure,

whi

lst t

he g

rass

land

has

ev

iden

ce o

f cha

nge.

Th

e hi

stor

ic o

ccup

atio

n of

the

area

en

cour

ages

imag

inat

ion

of a

sce

ne p

ast,

with

sh

ephe

rdin

g be

ing

the

mai

n pa

rt of

a v

ery

sim

ple

livin

g.

The

view

wou

ld c

hang

e w

ith a

dver

se w

eath

er, a

nd

wou

ld c

erta

inly

alte

r with

the

seas

ons

in te

rms

of c

olou

r an

d lig

ht.

At t

he e

nd o

f the

road

alo

ng th

e Lo

ch C

aolis

port/

Loch

S

wee

n pe

nins

ula

ther

e is

som

e fe

elin

g of

rem

oten

ess

from

the

mai

n la

nd a

rea

and

an e

nd o

f jou

rney

or

‘pen

insu

la’ f

eelin

g.

This

is n

ot a

s pr

onou

nced

as

the

peni

nsul

a fe

elin

g of

Kei

llmor

e be

caus

e at

Bal

imor

e th

ere

is fu

rther

land

bey

ond

the

end

of th

e ro

ad a

nd th

e ar

ea

is n

ot a

s ex

pose

d.

Feel

ings

of a

bsol

ute

isol

atio

n ar

e th

eref

ore

abse

nt h

ere.

120

Page 129: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

4. K

napd

ale

NSA

– K

eillm

ore

Obj

ectiv

e

Vi

sual

Emot

iona

lTh

e vi

ew is

dom

inat

ed b

y th

e co

ast a

nd s

easc

ape.

Th

e m

ain

land

form

is li

near

ste

ep s

ided

coa

stal

ridg

es

on th

e ad

jace

nt p

enin

sula

, and

offs

hore

roun

ded

isla

nds

and

the

coas

tal r

idge

s on

this

pen

insu

la th

at c

ontin

ue

out a

nd in

to th

e w

ater

. La

nd c

over

is ro

ugh

gras

slan

d th

at m

erge

s in

to ir

is b

eds

and

then

coa

stal

sal

tmar

sh b

efor

e th

e ro

cky

and

kelp

co

vere

d sh

ore.

Th

e ro

ugh

gras

slan

d is

dot

ted

with

sh

orte

r she

ep g

raze

d tu

rf w

here

gra

sses

are

less

cou

rse

and

ther

efor

e sw

eete

r. R

ocky

out

crop

s pr

ovid

e th

e m

ain

conc

entra

tions

of c

alca

reou

s gr

assl

and

spec

ies

with

typi

cally

tiny

flow

ers,

incl

udin

g w

ild th

yme,

fairy

flax

, ey

ebrig

ht a

nd c

ross

wor

t. E

nglis

h st

onec

rop

cree

ps

over

the

rock

sur

face

. S

wat

hes

of b

rack

en a

nd g

orse

are

see

n am

ongs

t the

gr

azin

g la

nd a

nd th

ere

are

occa

sion

al s

mal

l con

ifer

plan

tatio

ns.

Land

use

is p

redo

min

antly

she

ep g

razi

ng, w

ith

occa

sion

al w

alke

rs a

nd lo

cal b

oatin

g, a

lthou

gh th

e sm

all

boat

s pr

esen

t are

like

ly to

bel

ong

to th

e fe

w p

enin

sula

re

side

nts.

Th

ere

is th

e oc

casi

onal

cro

ft an

d th

e sm

all

grey

sto

ne c

hape

l clo

se to

the

end

of th

is p

enin

sula

r op

en fo

r vis

itors

and

has

inte

rpre

tatio

n m

ater

ial.

The

key

feat

ures

of t

his

area

are

the

flora

and

bird

s,

both

sho

relin

e w

ader

s an

d pa

sser

ines

(whi

ch w

ill b

e se

ason

al),

the

linea

r rid

ges

agai

nst t

he s

kylin

e, th

e of

fsho

re is

land

s an

d dr

owne

d co

ast a

nd s

econ

dary

fe

atur

es s

uch

as th

e ch

apel

and

sta

ndin

g cr

oss.

Th

is is

icon

ic S

cotti

sh c

oast

al la

ndsc

ape

with

ridg

es a

nd

shor

elin

es.

Key

vis

ual f

eatu

res

are

the

flat e

dges

to th

e in

lets

whi

ch

form

the

seas

loch

s, th

e st

rong

line

ar s

triat

ion

of la

nd

form

and

dro

wne

d co

ast –

the

laye

rs o

f rid

ges

term

inat

e in

the

sea

whi

ch is

pun

ctua

ted

by lo

w d

row

ned

isla

nds

offs

hore

. T

he tr

ansi

tion

of ro

ugh

graz

ing,

iris

bed

, sa

ltmar

sh to

rock

y ke

lp c

over

ed s

hore

and

the

vary

ing

topo

grap

hy a

nd h

eigh

t of r

idge

s ar

e fu

rther

impo

rtant

vi

sual

feat

ures

. Th

e sm

ooth

gre

enne

ss o

f the

low

er s

lope

s is

bac

ked

by

stee

per,

rock

ier a

nd g

rey

gree

n di

stan

t slo

pes

of h

ighe

r rid

ges.

Th

e sc

ale

is a

med

ium

enc

lose

d vi

ew th

at is

she

ltere

d,

secl

uded

and

hid

den,

com

plem

ente

d by

a m

uch

wid

er

expa

nse

of o

pen

sea.

Th

e la

ndsc

ape

is d

iver

se, w

ith a

sub

tle m

ix o

f gre

ens,

br

owns

and

gre

ys, a

nd th

e ey

e is

dra

wn

to th

e de

tail

of

the

colo

urfu

l gro

und

flora

on

the

shor

t cro

pped

turfs

. Si

gnifi

cant

bird

son

g an

d th

e op

portu

nity

to s

ee a

var

iety

of

avi

an s

peci

es a

dds

to th

e pe

acef

ul, c

alm

tran

quill

ity.

S

ituat

ed a

t the

end

of a

pen

insu

la, t

his

area

will

ex

perie

nce

quite

diff

eren

t vie

ws

in b

ad w

eath

er, w

here

th

e de

tail

is li

kely

to b

e lo

st, b

ut th

e ov

eral

l sce

ne w

ill b

e of

con

side

rabl

e m

ovem

ent a

nd d

ram

a.

Loch

war

ds th

e sc

ene

evok

es fe

elin

gs o

f pea

ce a

nd

rela

xatio

n.

It is

she

ltere

d an

d ca

lm, s

leep

y an

d qu

iet.

Th

e vi

ewer

feel

s sa

fe a

nd c

omfo

rtabl

e, b

ut b

eing

at t

he

end

of a

jour

ney

dow

n th

e pe

nins

ula,

ther

e is

som

e fe

elin

g of

a h

idde

n an

d un

spoi

lt pl

ace.

N

ot e

very

one

will

hav

e se

en th

is.

It fe

els

like

a pl

ace

that

is a

t the

end

of

a lo

ng c

ul-d

e-sa

c.

All

who

vis

it th

is p

lace

are

like

ly to

st

op, p

ause

, and

con

tem

plat

e be

fore

trav

ellin

g aw

ay

agai

n.

It is

def

inite

end

poi

nt.

The

sem

i-nat

ural

nat

ure

of th

e ar

ea is

impo

rtant

, and

the

eye

is c

augh

t by

the

tiny

deta

il of

sm

all c

olou

rful w

ild

flora

that

is in

min

iatu

re to

the

dram

atic

and

vas

t nat

ure

of th

e op

en s

ea a

nd h

int o

f dis

tant

isla

nds

seen

onl

y as

gr

ey o

utlin

es, i

nclu

ding

that

of t

he la

rge

isla

nd o

f Jur

a.

Out

war

d vi

ews

to th

e se

a ar

e la

rge,

exp

osed

, wild

and

is

olat

ed.

The

evid

ence

of h

uman

pre

senc

e is

low

key

but

re

assu

ring

- boa

ts, o

ccas

iona

l cro

fts a

nd g

razi

ng

anim

als.

W

ildlif

e is

ver

y im

porta

nt w

ithin

this

sce

ne;

bird

s fli

t aro

und

the

view

and

son

g po

sts

are

all a

roun

d.

The

tiny

delic

ate

flow

ers

of w

ild th

yme

and

ston

ecro

p ar

e at

tract

ive

and

draw

the

eye

in to

app

reci

ate

thei

r tin

y be

auty

, whi

ch m

akes

the

wid

er la

ndsc

ape

all t

he m

ore

insp

iring

and

vas

t. B

eyon

d th

e ho

rizon

is th

e op

en s

ea

and

dist

ant l

ands

. Th

e la

rge

expa

nse

of in

terti

dal s

and

prov

ides

for t

he o

dd

bask

ing

seal

, aga

in b

ringi

ng n

atur

e in

clo

se p

roxi

mity

to

the

view

er.

The

chap

el a

nd a

n aw

aren

ess

of it

s hi

stor

y br

ings

se

cond

ary

or b

ackg

roun

d em

otio

ns o

f the

his

toric

sp

iritu

al c

onne

ctio

ns o

f the

pla

ce, a

ddin

g to

feel

ings

of

long

term

con

tinui

ty, a

lthou

gh it

is th

e m

any

othe

r fe

atur

es th

at re

mai

n th

e pr

imar

y in

fluen

ces.

121

Page 130: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

5. K

napd

ale

NSA

– U

pper

par

alle

l rid

ges

with

in c

onife

r for

est

Qua

litie

s de

scrib

ed a

s a

resu

lt of

an

assi

mila

tion

of re

spon

ses

whi

lst m

ovin

g th

roug

h th

e ar

ea.

Obj

ectiv

e

Vi

sual

Emot

iona

lS

teep

sid

ed c

onife

rous

ridg

es w

ith d

eep

trenc

hes

are

the

dom

inan

t fea

ture

. T

his

is in

ters

pers

ed w

ith a

reas

of

broa

dlea

ved

woo

dlan

d, w

hich

tend

to b

e m

ore

open

.

Som

e tre

nche

s be

twee

n th

e rid

ges

are

wat

er fi

lled,

i.e.

se

clud

ed lo

chs,

som

e ar

e dr

y tre

nche

s, w

hich

are

eith

er

so n

arro

w th

at th

e co

nife

rous

pla

ntat

ion

sim

ply

cont

inue

s do

wn

and

up th

e ne

xt ri

dge,

or w

ider

and

fla

tter w

ith s

mal

l poc

kets

of r

ushy

gra

ssla

nd.

Land

cov

er is

pre

dom

inan

tly c

onife

r pla

ntat

ion,

eve

n on

th

e st

eepe

st o

f rid

ge s

lope

s.

Opp

ortu

nitie

s fo

r gra

zing

la

nd h

ave

been

take

n w

here

the

low

tren

ch is

wid

e en

ough

, res

ultin

g in

nar

row

info

rmal

fiel

ds o

f rou

gh a

nd

rush

y pa

stur

e an

d pa

tche

s of

bra

cken

. M

uch

of th

e la

nd is

use

d fo

r rec

reat

ion,

with

For

estry

C

omm

issi

on c

ycle

trai

ls, f

ootp

aths

and

pic

nic

poin

ts.

Set

tlem

ent i

s ve

ry s

pars

e w

ith o

nly

the

occa

sion

al s

mal

l ho

use

by th

e ro

ad.

Fore

stry

has

obs

cure

d th

e m

ore

subt

le la

ndfo

rm

feat

ures

, and

any

evi

denc

e of

his

toric

land

use

.

Clo

ser e

xam

inat

ion

into

the

plan

tatio

n re

veal

s ol

d fie

ld

boun

darie

s.

The

scal

e va

ries

as th

e jo

urne

y is

mad

e th

roug

h th

e ar

ea, f

rom

med

ium

sca

le in

mor

e op

en a

reas

to

encl

osed

and

intim

ate

amon

gst t

he c

lose

ly fo

lded

ridg

es,

whe

re th

e vi

ew is

she

ltere

d an

d hi

dden

. Th

e vi

ew in

the

fore

grou

nd is

ofte

n ve

ry v

arie

d, w

ith th

e ra

nge

of te

xtur

es a

nd c

olou

rs fr

om th

e ro

adsi

de ro

cks

and

vege

tatio

n.

At a

larg

er s

cale

the

spik

y lin

es o

f the

co

nife

rous

pla

ntat

ion

woo

dlan

d co

ntra

sts

the

mor

e ro

unde

d an

d va

ried

shap

es o

f the

bro

adle

aved

w

oodl

and,

par

ticul

arly

whe

re th

e st

unte

d gr

owth

of o

aks

has

left

them

twis

ted

and

gnar

led.

C

olou

rs a

re m

onoc

hrom

e am

ongs

t the

pla

ntat

ion,

al

thou

gh in

som

e pl

aces

how

ever

ther

e is

var

iatio

n in

co

nife

rous

spe

cies

, whi

ch a

dds

a gr

eate

r var

iety

of d

eep

gree

ns.

Inse

ct a

nd b

ird li

fe is

pre

vale

nt, p

artic

ular

ly a

long

the

sunn

y rid

es b

y tra

ck s

ides

or a

long

the

road

edg

e, w

here

th

ere

is a

lso

mor

e lic

hen

and

bryo

phyt

e co

vere

d ro

ck

and

falle

n tim

ber.

Whe

re d

appl

ed li

ght p

enet

rate

s th

e w

oodl

and

cano

py th

ere

is a

dded

gro

und

flora

inte

rest

. C

lear

line

ar in

fluen

ces

are

the

sinu

ous

natu

re o

f the

ro

ad, a

nd th

e st

rong

alm

ost v

ertic

al li

nes

of th

e rid

ges

and

deep

tren

ches

. S

ound

is d

eade

ned

by th

e ve

rtica

l st

ruct

ure

and

ther

e is

a s

tilln

ess

in th

e tre

nche

s.

With

in th

e th

ick

of th

e co

nife

r pla

ntat

ion

it is

dar

k an

d do

min

atin

g, d

ense

and

enc

lose

d.

The

verti

cal s

lope

s ar

e im

posi

ng a

nd th

ere

is a

real

aw

aren

ess

of h

eigh

t an

d th

e pa

ralle

l rid

ges

loom

ing

abov

e.

The

stee

pest

rid

ges

are

a dr

amat

ic fe

atur

e.

On

the

grou

nd th

e tre

nche

s fe

el s

ecre

t and

hid

den.

Th

e st

ruct

ural

com

plex

ity o

f the

par

alle

l rid

ge fe

atur

e an

d re

petit

ion

of th

e sc

ene

is d

isor

ient

atin

g an

d po

ssib

ly

unse

ttlin

g, p

artic

ular

ly w

hen

alon

e or

in a

dver

se

wea

ther

, alth

ough

it d

oes

also

invo

ke a

sen

se o

f ad

vent

ure

to d

isco

ver s

ecre

t gle

ns a

nd m

ini l

ochs

. W

ithin

the

plan

tatio

n w

oodl

and

it is

ext

rem

ely

still,

coo

l an

d ca

lm.

The

re is

the

typi

cal s

mel

l of d

ank,

dam

p ea

rth a

nd d

ecom

posi

ng p

ine

need

les.

Li

ght i

s oc

casi

onal

ly d

appl

ed, w

hich

can

be

very

attr

activ

e.

Feat

ures

are

ver

y cl

ose

and

mon

oton

ous,

hen

ce th

e vi

ewer

is o

ften

unsu

re o

f the

exa

ct lo

catio

n.

The

scen

e do

es c

hang

e as

a jo

urne

y is

mad

e al

ong

the

win

ding

road

, ofte

n go

ing

from

the

mon

oton

y of

pl

anta

tion

to s

eclu

ded

open

gla

des

amon

gst

broa

dlea

ved

woo

dlan

d.

The

land

scap

e ap

pear

s to

be

unfo

ldin

g as

the

view

er re

ache

s th

e ed

ges

of th

e de

eply

tre

nche

d rid

es a

nd g

radu

ally

pro

gres

s to

mor

e br

oadl

eave

d w

oodl

and.

It

is li

kely

to b

e a

pers

onal

vie

w a

s to

whe

ther

the

dens

e w

oodl

and

is d

eter

ring,

and

may

dep

end

on a

kno

wle

dge

of o

ther

pla

ces

to g

o in

the

wid

er a

rea

of th

e N

SA

.

122

Page 131: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

6. K

napd

ale

NSA

– D

un M

uric

h O

bjec

tive

Visu

alEm

otio

nal

The

imm

edia

te a

reas

clo

se to

the

road

are

com

plet

ely

dom

inat

ed b

y br

acke

n.

A s

mal

l but

ste

ep s

ided

rock

y ou

tcro

p lif

ts a

t the

sid

e of

the

loch

and

dro

ps to

the

tidal

sh

ores

of t

he lo

ch it

self.

Th

e fla

t loc

h su

rface

has

sm

all

isla

nds

and

the

far s

hore

clim

bs u

p to

par

alle

l rid

ges

of

Atla

ntic

oak

woo

dlan

d on

all

but t

he s

kylin

e, w

here

a

gras

sy p

late

au c

aps

the

top

of th

e rid

ge.

Th

e im

med

iate

fiel

ds o

f bra

cken

sw

athe

s ar

e lik

ely

to

have

bee

n pa

stur

e la

nd in

the

rece

nt p

ast,

and

som

e ar

e st

ill in

use

, alth

ough

bra

cken

is e

ncro

achi

ng.

Pla

ntat

ion

woo

dlan

d is

virt

ually

abs

ent a

nd th

e rid

ges

are

ther

efor

e cl

othe

d in

a s

ofte

r and

mor

e va

ried

broa

dlea

ved

woo

dlan

d.

Set

tlem

ent w

ithin

this

vie

w is

abs

ent,

but o

ccas

iona

l co

ttage

s do

occ

ur a

long

the

road

side

. T

he ro

cky

outc

rop

show

s th

e re

mai

ns o

f a h

isto

ric fo

rtifie

d dw

ellin

g,

henc

e th

e si

te n

ame.

Th

e br

oadl

eave

d w

oodl

and

of th

e fa

r sho

re is

a

sign

ifica

nt fe

atur

e, a

s is

the

Dun

ruin

on

top

of th

e ne

ar

rock

y ou

tcro

p.

The

mos

t stri

king

feat

ure

is th

e br

oadl

eave

d w

oodl

and

cove

red

ridge

on

the

far s

hore

of t

he lo

ch, w

hich

mak

es

a re

fresh

ing

chan

ge fr

om th

e pl

anta

tion

woo

dlan

d rid

ges

that

are

pre

vale

nt in

nor

ther

n K

napd

ale.

Th

is b

ackd

rop

is s

ofte

r tha

n th

e us

ual p

lant

atio

ns, a

nd a

ppea

rs m

ore

natu

ral w

hen

view

ed w

ith th

e hi

stor

ic d

un in

the

fore

grou

nd b

ecau

se it

is th

e na

tive

woo

dlan

d th

at w

ould

ha

ve h

isto

rical

ly o

ccur

red

in th

e ar

ea p

rior t

o pl

anta

tions

. Th

e sc

ale

of th

e vi

ew is

med

ium

sca

le, a

nd th

e tre

e co

vere

d pa

ralle

l rid

ge fo

rms

the

horiz

on li

ne, w

ith th

e co

ntin

uatio

n of

furth

er ri

dges

out

of v

iew

beh

ind

it.

This

are

a ha

s a

dive

rsity

of s

cene

s, w

ith w

oodl

and,

loch

, lo

ch s

hore

and

rock

y m

ound

s th

at o

nce

wou

ld h

ave

been

par

t of a

ridg

e.

The

isla

nds

with

in th

e lo

ch a

re

also

line

ar in

nat

ure

and

ther

efor

e pa

rt of

the

sam

e rid

ge

syst

em, e

ach

also

with

thei

r ow

n ro

cky

shor

es.

W

ith th

e lo

ch in

vie

w th

ere

are

stro

ng h

oriz

onta

l lin

es o

f th

e lo

ch w

ater

sur

face

mee

ting

the

far s

hore

, whi

ch ru

ns

in p

aral

lel w

ith th

e lin

es o

f rid

ges.

The

pres

ence

of t

he d

un, a

gain

st a

bac

kdro

p of

the

old

Atla

ntic

oak

woo

dlan

d ev

okes

som

e re

cons

truct

ion

in

the

min

d of

tim

es p

ast.

The

sce

ne m

ay b

e si

mila

r to

that

whe

n th

e fo

rtifie

d dw

ellin

g w

as o

ccup

ied.

Th

e D

un

is a

key

feat

ure

– in

trigu

ing

and

prov

okin

g th

e im

agin

atio

n.

The

loch

is n

arro

w a

nd th

ere

are

clea

r vie

ws

to th

e fa

r sh

ore,

thus

the

scen

e is

intim

ate,

des

pite

its

scal

e, a

nd

inte

rest

ing.

It

is fu

ll of

var

iety

yet

har

mon

ious

and

pe

acef

ul, w

ith th

e D

un in

spiri

ng fu

rther

thou

ght a

nd

mys

tery

.

123

Page 132: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

7. K

napd

ale

NSA

– M

òine

Mhó

r A

n as

sim

ilatio

n of

qua

litie

s de

term

ined

from

sev

eral

jour

neys

aro

und

the

area

. O

bjec

tive

Visu

alEm

otio

nal

Flat

, low

lyin

g an

d op

en m

oss

exte

nds

acro

ss th

e B

asin

, w

hich

is fr

amed

at t

he o

uter

reac

hes

by u

plan

d pa

ralle

l rid

ges.

V

olca

nic

plug

s of

rock

rise

up

from

the

mos

s in

a

few

loca

tions

, whi

ch b

reak

the

expa

nse

and

detra

ct

from

the

gene

rally

long

vie

ws

acro

ss th

e ba

sin.

Th

e la

nd c

over

is g

rass

moo

rland

veg

etat

ion

acro

ss

Mòi

ne M

hór,

unfe

nced

and

dot

ted

with

sm

all b

irch

and

alde

r tre

es, a

nd lo

calis

ed p

atch

es o

f hea

ther

. L

ow

dens

ity s

heep

gra

zing

occ

urs

acro

ss th

e m

oss.

Th

e m

oss

grad

es o

ut to

the

iris

beds

tow

ards

the

coas

t, an

d th

e dr

ains

runn

ing

alon

gsid

e th

e ro

ad o

r acr

oss

Mòi

ne

Mhó

r are

flor

istic

ally

div

erse

, ech

oing

the

rang

e of

sp

ecie

s fo

und

near

the

coat

am

ongs

t the

iris

bed

s, a

nd

can

ther

efor

e be

pic

ked

out f

rom

a d

ista

nce.

P

atch

es o

f flo

wer

ing

cotto

n gr

ass

are

dist

inct

ive

in th

e ne

ar v

iew

w

here

wet

ter g

roun

d is

pre

sent

acr

oss

the

mos

s ar

ea.

Th

e fla

t exp

anse

of t

he m

oss

leav

es th

e riv

er

inco

nspi

cuou

s un

til v

iew

ed c

lose

up.

Th

e m

ain

lines

do

min

atin

g th

e sc

ene

are

the

stra

ight

nar

row

road

s an

d lo

w s

traig

ht s

tone

wal

ls.

Ther

e is

an

obvi

ous

cont

rast

bet

wee

n th

e fla

t exp

anse

an

d th

e st

eep

para

llel r

idge

s th

at fr

ame

the

edge

of t

he

view

and

den

ote

the

boun

darie

s of

this

nor

ther

n se

ctio

n of

the

NS

A.

The

view

is m

ediu

m to

larg

e in

sca

le, d

epen

ding

on

the

view

er’s

pos

ition

aro

und

the

Mòi

ne M

hór a

rea.

Th

e do

min

atin

g fe

atur

e is

the

flat e

xpan

se fr

amed

by

the

para

llel r

idge

s in

mos

t dire

ctio

ns.

The

re is

a m

ixtu

re o

f ho

rizon

line

s, w

ith th

e im

med

iate

ridg

es d

omin

atin

g in

so

me

dire

ctio

ns, w

hils

t the

pur

ple

grey

out

lines

of

seve

ral m

ore

lines

of d

ista

nt ri

dges

can

be

seen

in

othe

rs.

The

sky

line

is th

eref

ore

dist

inct

and

ragg

ed,

with

the

eye

draw

n to

a fe

w d

istin

ctly

hig

her p

eaks

in th

e di

stan

ce.

The

edge

of t

he m

oss

agai

nst t

he s

tart

of th

e pa

ralle

l rid

ges

is a

ver

y st

rong

hor

izon

tal l

ine

beca

use

of th

e im

med

iate

con

trast

, and

in s

ome

way

s m

imic

s th

e sa

me

stro

ng h

oriz

onta

l lin

e se

en a

cros

s a

loch

whe

re th

e w

ater

’s s

urfa

ce m

eets

the

star

t of a

ridg

e.

Look

ing

land

war

d th

ere

is a

n in

crea

sing

am

ount

of

plan

tatio

n w

oodl

and

on th

e rid

ge, a

s op

pose

d to

the

mor

e na

tura

l bro

adle

aved

woo

dlan

d th

at c

reep

s in

mor

e si

gnifi

cant

ly c

oast

war

ds, a

lthou

gh th

e pl

anta

tions

and

br

oadl

eave

d se

ctio

ns d

o no

t mer

ge s

igni

fican

tly, r

athe

r th

ey re

mai

n in

dis

tinct

are

as.

The

roug

h te

xtur

es o

f roc

ks, s

piky

pla

ntat

ions

, mor

e ro

unde

d sh

apes

of b

road

leav

ed w

oodl

and

and

smoo

th

flatn

ess

of th

e m

oss

with

sud

den

plug

s of

ste

ep ro

ck

adds

con

side

rabl

e va

riatio

n in

text

ure.

In

fine

wea

ther

the

view

is lo

ng a

roun

d th

e ba

sin

of th

e m

oss,

but

in a

dver

se c

ondi

tions

it is

imag

ined

that

the

low

mos

s ar

ea w

ould

clin

g to

mis

t and

cre

ate

a ve

ry

diffe

rent

per

spec

tive.

The

open

, fla

t exp

anse

imm

edia

tely

feel

s ex

pose

d an

d w

ide

in c

ontra

st to

oth

er in

land

are

as w

ithin

the

NS

A.

S

traig

ht li

nes

dom

inat

e an

d ta

ke th

e vi

ewer

aro

und

a 36

0 de

gree

vie

w.

The

stra

ight

road

s in

vite

you

acr

oss

the

Mhó

r, an

d of

fer s

afe

pass

age

thro

ugh

wha

t wou

ld

othe

rwis

e no

t be

expl

ored

. Th

e pa

ralle

l rid

ges

swee

p ar

ound

the

edge

s of

the

Mhó

r, ea

ch w

ith th

eir o

wn

dist

inct

ive

char

acte

r, pr

ovid

ing

orie

ntat

ion

and

iden

tity.

Th

e dr

ama

of th

e rid

ges

and

expa

nse

of th

e M

hór i

s in

con

trast

to th

e sm

all

settl

emen

ts d

otte

d ar

ound

the

view

, whi

ch g

ive

com

fort

in a

n ot

herw

ise

expa

nsiv

e an

d al

mos

t wild

land

scap

e.

The

Mhó

r has

an

anon

ymity

abo

ut it

, and

one

can

feel

sm

all a

nd a

nony

mou

s in

its

vast

ness

. Y

et w

ithin

the

enor

mity

of t

he fl

at m

oss

is c

onsi

dera

ble

deta

il, w

ith

bird

s fli

tterin

g in

clo

se v

iew

and

sin

ging

from

nea

rby

song

pos

ts, a

nd m

oorla

nd fl

ora

draw

ing

the

eye

into

the

near

dis

tanc

e af

ter a

ppre

ciat

ing

the

farth

er v

iew

s.

This

de

tail

brea

thes

life

and

giv

es c

omfo

rt in

to th

e w

ild

expa

nse.

124

Page 133: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

8. K

napd

ale

NSA

– C

rinan

Can

al C

orrid

or

An

assi

mila

ted

field

she

et b

ased

upo

n se

vera

l jou

rney

s al

ong

the

cana

l cor

ridor

. O

bjec

tive

Visu

alEm

otio

nal

A li

near

can

al fo

llow

ing

the

hill

foot

of t

he u

plan

d an

d co

asta

l par

alle

l rid

ges

on th

e so

uth

side

of t

he m

oss

basi

n.

The

cana

l is

lined

by

rock

bul

lions

, with

sho

rt am

enity

gr

assl

and

alon

g its

sid

es.

Num

erou

s lo

cks

appe

ar

alon

g th

e le

ngth

of t

he c

anal

, whi

ch a

re th

e fo

cal p

oint

s fo

r set

tlem

ent,

with

lock

kee

pers

cot

tage

s le

adin

g to

fu

rther

sm

all w

hite

pai

nted

cot

tage

s at

som

e lo

ck p

oint

s.

The

key

feat

ures

are

the

cana

l lin

e its

elf,

whi

ch d

espi

te

bein

g a

man

mad

e fe

atur

e is

sin

uous

like

a ri

ver,

fittin

g to

th

e co

ntou

rs o

f the

land

. A

sec

ond

key

feat

ure

is th

e bl

ack

and

whi

te lo

cks,

whi

ch a

re w

ell m

aint

aine

d an

d ne

atly

pai

nted

, alo

ng w

ith th

e as

soci

ated

dw

ellin

gs a

nd

build

ings

that

are

sim

ilarly

nea

tly p

aint

ed w

hite

.

The

view

is u

sual

ly s

mal

l sca

le a

long

the

cana

l, bu

t with

lin

ear v

iew

s up

and

dow

n th

e w

ater

way

. It

is s

helte

red

and

calm

, but

with

a ra

nge

of fe

atur

es, c

olou

r and

te

xtur

e.

The

still

wat

er, r

ock

bulli

ons,

nea

t can

al s

ides

w

ith m

own

gras

s an

d sm

all g

arde

n ar

eas

with

bed

ding

pl

ants

and

pot

s of

flow

ers,

sm

all w

hite

cot

tage

s an

d se

clud

ed m

ini m

arin

as, a

re in

con

trast

to a

bac

kdro

p of

th

e pa

ralle

l rid

ges

to o

ne s

ide

and

the

flat e

xpan

se o

f th

e m

oss

on th

e ot

her.

At m

any

poin

ts a

long

the

cana

l, th

e m

oss

is o

bscu

red

from

vie

w b

y lin

es o

f sm

all t

rees

al

ong

the

tow

path

, but

freq

uent

ly c

omes

into

vie

w a

long

th

e jo

urne

y.

The

cana

l and

its

asso

ciat

ed to

wpa

th a

re th

e m

ost

dom

inan

t lin

ear f

eatu

res,

whi

lst o

ther

line

s an

d fo

rm a

re

com

plic

ated

and

div

erse

with

the

rang

e of

feat

ures

pr

esen

t. Th

ere

is g

reat

inte

rest

and

mov

emen

t alo

ng th

e ca

nal,

with

boa

ts, y

acht

s an

d ba

rges

trav

ellin

g al

ong

it.

Ther

e is

a b

usy

but r

elax

ed a

tmos

pher

e, a

s ho

liday

boa

ters

are

co

nsta

ntly

man

oeuv

ring

the

lock

s, b

ringi

ng b

oats

in to

m

oor o

r pus

hing

boa

ts o

ff ag

ain.

Th

ere

is a

stro

ng h

uman

influ

ence

alo

ng th

e ca

nal

corri

dor,

with

the

boat

ing

activ

ity a

nd th

e in

ns a

nd g

uest

ho

uses

rein

forc

ing

the

feel

ing

of a

pop

ulat

ed a

nd a

ctiv

e pl

ace.

Th

e ca

nal c

orrid

or h

as a

cle

ar h

isto

rical

con

text

, bei

ng a

pu

rpos

e bu

ilt m

an m

ade

wat

er w

ay, t

hat p

rovi

ded

a lin

k fro

m in

land

to th

e se

a.

The

Crin

an c

anal

are

a is

tran

quil

and

hidd

en, p

eace

ful

and

com

forti

ng. I

f tra

vellin

g to

the

cana

l are

a fro

m th

e m

oss

the

area

is s

urpr

isin

g, a

real

con

trast

to th

e w

ild

expa

nse.

The

area

is v

ery

rela

xing

and

enj

oyab

le, a

nd th

ere

is a

re

al fe

elin

g of

bei

ng o

n ho

liday

.

One

cou

ld s

pend

se

vera

l hou

rs w

atch

ing

the

boat

ing

activ

ity, w

ande

ring

alon

g th

e to

wpa

th a

nd p

icni

ckin

g at

the

colo

urfu

l loc

k si

des.

Th

ere

is a

lway

s so

met

hing

to s

ee, s

omet

hing

of

inte

rest

. T

here

is a

ctiv

e so

und

of m

ovem

ent,

peop

le

and

enjo

ymen

t. Th

e st

rong

iden

tity

and

blac

k an

d w

hite

col

our o

f the

ca

nal s

ide

cotta

ges

and

lock

s re

min

ds th

e vi

ewer

of t

he

hist

ory

of th

e ca

nal a

s a

wor

king

wat

erw

ay, a

nd a

lso

furth

er a

dds

to th

e fe

elin

g of

a h

olid

ay p

lace

. Th

e ba

ckgr

ound

feel

ing

is o

ne o

f bei

ng o

n a

jour

ney.

Th

e vi

ewer

is c

onst

antly

mov

ing

alon

g th

e ca

nal,

albe

it sl

owly

and

with

pau

ses

that

cou

ld la

st fo

r hou

rs o

r a d

ay.

Th

e jo

urne

y un

fold

s al

ong

the

cana

l cor

ridor

as

it w

inds

fro

m in

land

to s

ea.

125

Page 134: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

9. K

napd

ale

NSA

– C

rinan

Bay

coa

stal

are

a O

bjec

tive

Visu

alEm

otio

nal

Crin

an B

ay is

div

ided

into

an

oute

r bay

and

inne

r bay

, w

ith e

xten

sive

inte

rtida

l are

as.

At l

ow ti

de th

ere

are

larg

e ex

pans

es o

f san

d ar

ound

the

bay,

with

virt

ually

all

of th

e in

ner b

ay b

eing

dev

oid

of s

ea w

ater

. S

altm

arsh

ar

ound

the

bay

grad

ually

gra

des

into

Mòi

ne M

hór.

Lo

calis

ed ro

cky

area

s ar

e at

eac

h si

de o

f the

mou

th o

f th

e ba

y, a

s th

e pe

riphe

ral r

idge

s tu

mbl

e in

to th

e se

a.

The

view

is c

onta

ined

by

coas

tal p

aral

lel r

idge

s, b

ut w

ith

a fra

med

vie

w o

ut to

the

open

sea

thro

ugh

the

chan

nel

of th

e ba

y.

Ther

e ar

e a

few

cot

tage

s ne

stle

d in

to th

e ed

ges

of th

e rid

ges,

whi

ch d

iffer

from

the

char

acte

ristic

whi

te p

aint

ed

cotta

ges,

bei

ng g

rey

ston

e.

The

settl

emen

t of C

rinan

is a

gain

refle

ctin

g th

e w

hite

pa

inte

d tra

dem

ark

cotta

ges

and

also

has

sm

all b

oat

yard

s an

d as

soci

ated

bui

ldin

gs.

The

mos

t sig

nific

ant f

eatu

res

are

the

cost

al e

dge

and

inte

rtida

l are

a w

ith it

s ex

pans

e of

ligh

t san

d, a

nd th

e flo

ral d

iver

sity

of t

he s

altm

arsh

and

iris

bed

s, a

ll of

whi

ch

are

agai

nst a

bac

kdro

p of

the

tow

erin

g rid

ges.

The

scal

e is

sm

all t

o m

ediu

m, w

ith th

e en

clos

ed fe

elin

g of

the

bay

lead

ing

to w

ider

vie

ws

acro

ss th

e m

oss

or o

ut

to th

e op

en s

ea.

The

bay

area

is s

eclu

ded

and

shel

tere

d an

d ve

ry v

arie

d in

its

feat

ures

. T

he in

fluen

ce o

f set

tlem

ent o

n th

e sc

ene

is im

porta

nt, w

ith th

e bo

atin

g ac

tivity

in C

rinan

villa

ge,

and

the

hidd

en h

amle

t of g

rey

cotta

ges

on th

e op

posi

te

shor

e.

Col

our i

s al

so a

n im

porta

nt a

spec

t of t

his

area

, w

ith th

e br

ight

ness

of t

he in

terti

dal s

and,

gre

y ro

cky

coas

t lin

e, w

hite

cot

tage

s of

Crin

an a

nd s

plas

hes

of

brig

ht c

olou

rs fr

om th

e ye

llow

flag

iris

and

cer

ise

ragg

ed

robi

n flo

wer

s w

ithin

the

iris

beds

. In

the

dist

ance

the

dark

ridg

es ta

ke o

n di

ffere

nt h

ues

depe

ndin

g on

the

wea

ther

con

ditio

ns.

With

the

rang

e of

feat

ures

als

o co

mes

a v

arie

ty o

f tex

ture

s, fr

om th

e sm

ooth

sea

wat

er

and

inte

rtida

l san

d, to

the

rock

y ar

eas

of th

e co

ast,

and

sway

ing

gras

slan

d an

d iri

s be

ds.

Line

and

form

is a

lso

varie

d, b

ut d

omin

ant h

oriz

onta

l lin

es o

f the

wat

er s

urfa

ce a

nd th

e un

dula

ting

ridge

tops

of

the

para

llel r

idge

s ag

ains

t the

sky

rem

ain

prom

inen

t. M

ovem

ent a

nd s

ound

are

influ

entia

l in

the

scen

e, w

ith

the

activ

ity a

roun

d C

rinan

and

lazy

feel

to th

e gr

ey

cotta

ge h

amle

t, th

e ca

lls o

f the

wad

ers

feed

ing

in th

e in

terti

dal a

nd th

e m

ovem

ent o

f the

iris

bed

s in

the

bree

ze.

The

Crin

an B

ay a

reas

has

lots

to s

ee a

nd e

xplo

re.

D

ista

nt v

iew

s ou

t to

sea

or o

ver t

he m

oss

can

be

enjo

yed

from

a s

afe

and

rela

xing

van

tage

poi

nt w

ithin

th

is h

idde

n an

d se

clud

ed a

rea.

It

feel

s la

zy a

nd h

appy

.

Tim

e dr

ifts

by a

s pe

ople

tink

er w

ith th

e bo

ats

or fi

sh fr

om

a ro

ck a

t the

edg

e of

the

grey

cot

tage

ham

let.

Ther

e is

con

side

rabl

e in

tere

st in

the

deta

il of

the

bird

s fe

edin

g, th

e co

lour

ful f

lora

l div

ersi

ty o

f the

sal

t mar

sh

and

iris

beds

, and

the

rock

y ed

ges.

A

ttent

ion

is d

raw

n to

the

diffe

rent

cha

ract

eris

tics

of th

e in

ner a

nd o

uter

bay

s, w

hich

are

con

stan

tly c

hang

ing

as

the

tide

cree

ps in

and

out

, and

the

view

er h

as m

uch

to

occu

py th

e ey

e as

the

area

is s

cann

ed.

Vie

ws

out t

o th

e op

en s

ea d

o no

t fee

l exh

ilara

ting

or e

xpan

sive

be

caus

e th

ey a

re ta

ken

from

the

shel

ter o

f the

bay

. Th

e vi

ew h

as a

real

sea

side

am

bien

ce.

It is

slo

w-

mov

ing

and

drea

my,

pea

cefu

l, id

yllic

and

rela

xing

.

126

Page 135: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

10. K

napd

ale

NSA

– D

un A

dd

View

take

n fr

om th

e to

p an

d is

a d

escr

iptio

n of

the

view

in a

ll di

rect

ions

. O

bjec

tive

Visu

alEm

otio

nal

The

land

for i

s th

e fla

t mos

s ar

ea o

f Mòi

ne M

hór,

fring

ed

by th

e st

eep

para

llel r

idge

s.

Occ

asio

nal o

utcr

ops

of

volc

anic

plu

gs a

re s

een

acro

ss th

e m

oss,

and

the

sinu

ous

Riv

er A

dd w

indi

ng it

s w

ay a

cros

s th

e m

oss

is

clea

rly s

een.

La

nd c

over

is th

e gr

ass

moo

rland

of M

òine

Mhó

r, w

ith it

s pa

tche

s of

hea

ther

and

clu

mps

of b

road

leav

ed tr

ees.

A

reas

of t

he m

oss

rise

to s

emi-i

mpr

oved

pas

ture

land

.

The

river

mea

nder

is li

ned

by ri

paria

n tre

es, a

nd fr

om

the

heig

ht o

f Dun

Add

the

path

of t

he o

ld ri

ver,

prio

r to

an a

ltera

tion

in it

s co

urse

, can

cle

arly

be

seen

in th

e ch

ange

in v

eget

atio

n.

The

maj

ority

of t

he v

iew

is o

f the

Nat

iona

l Nat

ure

Res

erve

of M

òine

Mhó

r, w

ith a

dditi

onal

land

use

d in

the

plan

tatio

n w

oodl

and

on th

e rid

ges

and

scat

terin

g of

sm

all f

arm

stea

ds a

cros

s th

e m

oss.

P

rom

inen

t fea

ture

s ar

e th

e si

nuou

s lin

e of

the

river

and

th

e cl

umps

of w

oodl

and

acro

ss th

e ot

herw

ise

flat

expa

nse

of th

e m

oss.

Th

e pa

ralle

l rid

ges

rise

up

arou

nd th

e ba

sin

side

s of

the

mos

s an

d pu

sh in

to th

e sk

ylin

e.

The

view

is la

rge

scal

e an

d ve

ry o

pen.

It

is

hom

ogen

ous

othe

r tha

n th

e va

riety

add

ed b

y th

e w

oodl

and

clum

ps a

nd th

e lin

e of

the

river

. C

olou

r is

esse

ntia

lly a

com

bina

tion

of g

reen

s an

d br

owns

. S

hade

s va

ry fr

om th

e lig

hter

mos

s ar

ea to

the

dark

par

alle

l rid

ges.

Th

e di

stan

ce o

f the

vie

ws

and

heig

ht g

iven

by

Dun

Add

sm

ooth

es o

ut w

hat w

ould

be

a m

ore

text

ured

vie

w w

hen

take

n fro

m th

e m

oss

leve

l w

here

det

ail c

ould

be

bette

r app

reci

ated

. Th

e ed

ge o

f the

mos

s ag

ains

t the

ridg

es, a

nd th

e m

oss

surfa

ce is

the

dom

inat

ing

horiz

onta

l lin

e, w

ith th

e sk

ylin

e at

the

tops

of t

he ri

dges

and

the

mea

nder

of t

he ri

ver

bein

g se

cond

ary

form

s th

at a

ttrac

t the

eye

. S

ound

s ar

e au

dibl

e a

cons

ider

able

dis

tanc

e fro

m th

eir

sour

ce b

ecau

se o

f the

hei

ght o

f the

vie

wpo

int.

The

ex

perie

nce

is th

eref

ore

influ

ence

d by

a fr

eque

nt tr

affic

hu

m.

The

shee

r vol

cani

c pl

ug o

f Dun

Add

is a

n ic

onic

vi

ewpo

int f

rom

whi

ch th

e bo

unda

ry o

f the

nor

ther

n se

ctio

n of

the

NS

A m

ay w

ell h

ave

been

def

ined

. T

wo

prom

inen

t pea

ks; C

noc

na h

-Eild

e an

d C

reag

an B

raed

ar

e im

porta

nt d

ista

nt h

ills

in th

e sc

ene.

Th

e in

clus

ion

of

the

‘Brid

gend

Bum

p’ w

ithin

the

NSA

is a

lso

expl

aine

d fro

m th

is v

iew

, as

its ri

dge

back

drop

com

plet

es th

e 36

0 de

gree

vie

w o

f the

par

alle

l rid

ge li

ned

basi

n.

This

is a

n in

spiri

ng a

nd m

emor

able

vie

w. I

t is

impr

essi

ve

and

refre

shin

g.

From

this

vie

wpo

int t

he s

cene

take

s th

e ey

e ac

ross

the

flat m

oss

and

right

out

to th

e op

en s

ea.

Th

ere

is c

onsi

dera

ble

dram

a in

the

imm

edia

te

shee

rnes

s of

Dun

Add

, the

fann

ing

out o

f spa

ce a

cros

s th

e fla

t mos

s an

d th

e en

caps

ulat

ion

of th

e rin

g of

par

alle

l rid

ges

arou

nd th

e en

tire

basi

n.

Ther

e is

sig

nific

ant e

xhila

ratio

n as

a re

sult

of th

e im

pres

sion

of h

eigh

t at t

he to

p of

Dun

Add

and

ther

e is

a

feel

ing

of d

izzi

ness

as

a re

sult

of th

e co

mbi

natio

n of

this

he

ight

and

the

spac

ious

360

deg

ree

view

. Th

e hi

stor

ic re

leva

nce

of th

is p

lace

, bei

ng th

e si

te w

here

th

e K

ings

of S

cotla

nd w

ere

once

cro

wne

d, is

a p

ower

ful

influ

ence

on

the

emot

iona

l res

pons

e to

the

scen

e.

It is

in

spiri

ng a

nd c

onte

mpl

atin

g.

The

view

er c

anno

t hel

p bu

t im

agin

e th

is s

ame

view

mor

e th

an a

thou

sand

yea

rs

past

. F

or s

ome

it is

like

ly to

be

spin

e tin

glin

g.

For

othe

rs it

will

be

at le

ast e

xhila

ratin

g.

127

Page 136: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

11. K

napd

ale

NSA

– L

och

Cao

lispo

rt c

oast

line

at th

e so

uthe

rn e

nd o

f the

NSA

bou

ndar

y O

bjec

tive

Visu

alEm

otio

nal

The

mai

n la

nd fo

rm w

ithin

the

view

is lo

ng p

aral

lel r

idge

s in

the

far d

ista

nce

acro

ss th

e lo

ch a

nd p

aral

lel t

o th

e sh

ore,

whi

ch a

re ru

gged

and

und

ulat

ing

and

slo

pe

gent

ly d

own

tow

ards

the

sea.

Th

e fla

t sea

loch

with

its

occa

sion

al lo

w a

nd fl

at is

land

s w

iden

s ou

t to

the

open

se

a an

d ha

s a

rock

y sh

orel

ine

with

occ

asio

nal s

andy

be

ache

s.

Land

cov

er c

onsi

sts

of th

e ro

cky

heat

her r

idge

s w

ith

broa

dlea

ved

woo

dlan

d on

the

stee

per s

lope

s an

d gr

ass

moo

rland

with

hea

ther

and

bra

cken

on

the

low

er s

lope

s an

d so

me

encl

osed

pas

ture

. S

andy

sho

res

inte

r di

sper

se th

e ro

cky

shor

elin

e of

the

sea

loch

. P

rimar

y la

nd u

ses

are

coni

fer p

lant

atio

n, e

stat

e la

nd,

past

oral

agr

icul

ture

with

som

e sm

all s

cale

sai

ling

and

tour

ism

aro

und

the

loch

. C

otta

ges

and

som

e la

rger

hou

ses

incl

udin

g a

coup

le o

f tra

ditio

nal e

stat

e ho

uses

are

loca

ted

in s

helte

red

bays

an

d in

lets

alo

ng th

e lo

ch s

hore

. S

ettle

men

t app

ears

to

be a

bsen

t for

m th

e hi

gher

slo

pes.

Im

med

iate

feat

ures

are

the

woo

dlan

d co

ntra

stin

g w

ith

bare

rock

and

aga

in w

ith g

razi

ng la

nd.

Bec

ause

of t

he

angl

e of

the

view

, the

edg

es o

f par

alle

l rid

ges

are

seen

in

an

inte

rlock

ing

sequ

ence

, with

the

mor

e di

stan

t ap

pear

ing

a ha

zy b

lue

whi

lst t

he n

eare

r rid

ges

are

a st

rong

dar

k gr

een.

Th

e va

riety

in th

e rid

ges

is q

uite

ap

pare

nt a

t thi

s vi

ewpo

int w

ith la

zy u

ndul

atin

g rid

ges,

in

cise

d, c

renu

late

d an

d co

mpr

esse

d rid

ges

and

final

ly

rock

y w

oode

d rid

ges.

Th

e bo

lder

and

rock

y sh

ore

with

its

shor

elin

e bi

rds

pred

omin

ates

the

fore

grou

nd a

nd th

e ca

lls o

f the

wad

ers

is a

sig

nific

ant c

ontri

butio

n to

the

scen

e, p

artic

ular

ly

give

n th

e ab

senc

e of

any

oth

er o

bvio

us n

oise

.

The

scal

e of

the

view

is la

rge

with

and

ope

n an

d ex

pose

d vi

ews

out t

o th

e so

uth

as th

e lo

ch e

xpan

ds o

ut

into

the

sea,

and

an

incr

easi

ngly

she

ltere

d vi

ew a

s th

e lo

ch ta

pers

inla

nd to

the

north

. T

here

is a

lso

a m

ore

intim

ate

scal

e al

ong

the

loch

road

, whi

ch is

muc

h m

ore

encl

osed

by

trees

. Th

e la

ndsc

ape

is d

iver

se w

ith ri

dges

con

trast

ing

with

pa

stur

e la

nd, o

pen

wat

er a

nd s

hore

lines

. C

olou

r is

also

va

ried,

with

mut

ed re

ds, p

urpl

e an

d gr

eys

in th

e ba

re

rock

s an

d th

e ra

nge

of g

reen

s in

the

woo

dlan

d an

d gr

assl

and.

Th

e sh

orel

ine

adds

furth

er c

olou

r var

iety

w

ith li

ght s

ands

and

mul

ti-co

lour

ed b

ould

ers.

Th

e fla

t hor

izon

tal p

lane

of t

he s

ea lo

ch is

the

mos

t im

porta

nt li

ne w

ithin

the

view

, and

the

horiz

on li

ne

crea

ted

by th

e rid

ges,

whi

ch s

lope

dow

n to

plu

nge

into

th

e se

a is

als

o pr

omin

ent.

It is

felt

that

wea

ther

wou

ld a

lter t

he p

erce

ptio

n of

the

view

con

side

rabl

y, w

ith a

dver

se c

ondi

tions

like

ly to

brin

g m

uch

mor

e m

ovem

ent.

The

scen

e ev

okes

feel

ings

of c

omfo

rt, s

afet

y, tr

anqu

illity

an

d re

st.

Hum

an in

fluen

ce in

this

are

a is

min

imal

. It

is

a pl

ace

to s

tay

for a

whi

le a

nd e

njoy

its

peac

eful

ness

. It

is

a p

lace

to re

lax

and

gent

ly e

xplo

re.

Whi

lst t

he la

ndsc

ape

is c

ompl

ex it

is s

till h

arm

onio

us,

alth

ough

pla

ntat

ion

woo

dlan

d m

ay d

etra

ct fr

om th

e be

auty

of t

he s

cene

for s

ome.

Th

e fa

rmed

land

scap

e se

en w

hen

look

ing

inla

nd is

set

tling

and

reas

surin

g, a

nd

ther

e is

she

lter i

n th

e w

oodl

and

and

scru

b.

In c

ontra

st

the

view

s ou

t to

the

open

sea

, and

the

eerie

vie

w o

f the

is

land

s of

Jur

a an

d Is

lay

emer

ging

from

the

mis

t, ar

e m

ore

exci

ting

and

antic

ipat

ing.

Th

e ar

ea fe

els

bigg

er th

an it

act

ually

is b

ecau

se o

f the

lo

ng li

near

jour

neys

to th

e pe

nins

ular

end

s of

eac

h si

de

of th

e lo

ch, d

urin

g w

hich

ther

e is

som

e se

nse

of

expl

orat

ion,

not

kno

win

g w

hat i

s ar

ound

the

next

ben

d.

The

inte

rlock

ing

ridge

s ar

e m

yste

rious

and

cre

ate

an

impr

essi

on o

f hid

den

valle

ys y

et to

be

disc

over

ed.

128

Page 137: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

12. K

napd

ale

NSA

– A

t the

hea

d of

Loc

h C

aolis

port

, clo

se to

Loc

head

Hou

se

Obj

ectiv

e

Vi

sual

Emot

iona

lTh

e la

nd ri

ses

from

the

flat s

altm

arsh

at t

he h

ead

of th

e lo

ch, t

owar

ds u

ndul

atin

g an

d ge

ntly

risi

ng e

nclo

sed

field

s, w

hich

reac

h th

e fo

ot o

f the

ste

ep s

lopi

ng p

aral

lel

ridge

s w

here

the

land

sud

denl

y ris

es in

to th

e w

oode

d rid

ges.

Th

e rid

ges

are

dom

inat

ed b

y br

oadl

eave

d w

oodl

and,

but

w

ith s

ome

coni

fero

us w

oodl

and

also

bei

ng p

rese

nt.

Th

e pa

stur

e la

nd b

elow

is ru

shy,

with

som

e fie

lds

clea

rly

in re

cess

ion.

E

nclo

sure

is b

y w

ay o

f hed

gero

ws,

whi

ch

have

bee

n ab

sent

from

all

othe

r vie

wpo

ints

und

erta

ken

with

in th

e N

SA

. H

edge

row

tree

s ar

e do

tted

alon

g th

e he

dgel

ines

and

sm

all c

opse

s ar

e in

terc

onne

cted

by

ripar

ian

tree

lines

follo

win

g st

ream

s he

adin

g to

war

ds th

e lo

ch.

Bra

mbl

e tu

mbl

es o

ut fr

om th

e fie

ld e

dges

alo

ng

the

road

mar

gins

, ind

icat

ive

of a

hig

her n

utrie

nt c

onte

nt

in th

ese

soils

. T

he la

nd d

ips

dow

n to

a s

altm

arsh

and

in

terti

dal s

andy

bea

ch, w

ith s

tream

line

s cu

tting

thro

ugh

the

mar

sh a

nd w

iden

ing

tow

ards

the

loch

. Th

e gr

assl

and

arou

nd th

is a

rea

is c

lear

ly m

ore

enric

hed,

bu

t som

e ar

eas

appe

ar to

be

in d

eclin

e w

ith in

crea

sed

rush

cov

er, s

ugge

stin

g a

redu

ctio

n in

gra

zing

and

rush

m

anag

emen

t.

Ther

e is

a c

ontin

ued

feel

of e

stat

e la

nd, w

ith th

e El

ary

Esta

te a

nd it

s as

soci

ated

ham

let,

and

Loch

ead

Hou

se

and

its a

ssoc

iate

d co

ttage

s co

mm

andi

ng v

iew

s do

wn

Loch

Cao

lispo

rt.

Furth

er o

ccas

iona

l cot

tage

s ar

e fo

und

alon

g th

e ro

adsi

de.

Loc

head

Hou

se is

impr

essi

ve w

ith

its d

ress

ed m

ason

ry a

nd s

late

roof

. Th

e va

riety

of b

road

leav

ed tr

ees

and

thei

r flo

w in

to th

e la

ndsc

ape,

follo

win

g m

eand

erin

g st

ream

sid

es d

own

tow

ards

the

loch

and

wra

ppin

g ar

ound

the

para

llel

ridge

s, is

a k

ey fe

atur

e w

ithin

the

view

. T

he c

ontra

st

betw

een

the

stee

p rid

ges

and

the

low

pas

ture

land

is

strik

ing

and

the

lines

of h

edge

s al

so m

ake

a di

stin

ctiv

e co

ntra

st to

the

natu

ral f

low

of t

he la

nd fo

rm to

war

ds th

e lo

ch.

Des

pite

the

grea

ter i

nten

sity

of a

gric

ultu

re in

the

area

, the

re is

stil

l a la

ck o

f mod

ern

infra

stru

ctur

e or

m

oder

n fa

rm b

uild

ings

, thu

s re

tain

ing

the

attra

ctiv

enes

s of

the

view

.

A s

mal

l to

med

ium

sca

le v

iew

, whi

ch is

she

ltere

d,

secl

uded

and

hid

den

whe

re th

e w

oodl

and

cops

es a

re

mor

e pr

eval

ent,

crea

ting

loca

lly in

timat

e ar

eas

amon

gst

the

mor

e op

en p

astu

res.

Th

e sc

ene

is th

eref

ore

varie

d in

feat

ures

, but

is v

ery

muc

h do

min

ated

by

shad

es o

f gr

een.

Th

e in

terti

dal b

each

are

a ac

ts a

s a

shar

p co

ntra

st in

col

our a

gain

st a

ver

dant

was

h ac

ross

the

land

scap

e.

Stro

ng li

nes

are

crea

ted

by th

e he

dges

that

cro

ss a

t rig

ht

angl

es th

e ge

nera

l loc

hwar

d flo

w o

f lin

es w

ithin

the

land

scap

e, b

y th

e tre

e lin

es fo

llow

ing

stre

ams

to th

e se

a lo

ch a

nd b

y th

e lin

e of

the

ridge

s ag

ains

t the

sky

. T

he

road

is s

inuo

us to

the

land

form

. Th

e sc

ene

is in

fluen

ced

by a

gric

ultu

ral s

ound

s an

d sm

ells

, and

bac

kgro

und

bird

song

. T

here

is a

mar

ked

redu

ctio

n in

flor

istic

div

ersi

ty in

com

paris

on to

oth

er

area

s of

the

NS

A.

The

area

is s

afe,

she

ltere

d an

d ha

rmon

ious

. It

is a

re

laxi

ng a

nd fa

milia

r lan

dsca

pe.

The

sen

se o

f se

ttlem

ent h

isto

ry is

sig

nific

ant,

alon

g w

ith th

e ev

iden

ce

of a

soc

ial h

iera

rchy

with

the

esta

te h

ouse

s an

d sm

all

cotta

ges

surro

undi

ng th

em.

Thi

s m

ore

rece

nt a

nd m

ore

gran

dios

e se

ttlem

ent h

isto

ry is

in c

ontra

st to

the

mor

e an

cien

t dun

s, s

tone

cro

sses

and

cha

pels

exp

erie

nced

el

sew

here

in th

e N

SA

. Th

e w

oodl

and

billo

ws

arou

nd th

e va

lley,

set

tled

into

the

topo

grap

hy w

here

it w

ould

be

expe

cted

to b

e.

The

graz

ing

cattl

e la

zily

mov

ing

arou

nd th

e ru

sh p

astu

res

is

a fa

mili

ar, s

oft,

tradi

tiona

l and

war

m s

cene

that

is ‘g

reen

an

d pl

easa

nt.’

Th

e pa

ralle

l rid

ges

rem

ain

a cr

itica

l fea

ture

, tak

ing

the

view

from

bei

ng a

typi

cal a

nd p

leas

ant l

owla

nd A

rgyl

l sc

ene

to th

at o

f som

ethi

ng v

ery

spec

ial.

129

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13. K

napd

ale

NSA

– M

id p

oint

on

Loch

Cao

lispo

rt, a

djac

ent t

o ro

ckfa

ll w

oodl

and

Obj

ectiv

e

Vi

sual

Emot

iona

lO

n th

e w

este

rn s

ide

of L

och

Cao

lispo

rt th

e ro

ad w

inds

ha

rd a

gain

st th

e ed

ge o

f a s

teep

par

alle

l rid

ge.

The

m

ain

land

form

with

in th

is v

iew

is th

eref

ore

the

loch

edg

e an

d st

eep

para

llel r

idge

s, w

ith li

ttle

trans

ition

bet

wee

n.

Land

cov

er is

bro

adle

aved

woo

dlan

d, w

hich

is c

lingi

ng

to th

e st

eep

side

s of

the

ridge

, alo

ng w

ith th

e lo

ch it

self

and

its s

hore

line.

O

ccas

iona

l isl

ands

are

dot

ted

in th

e lo

ch.

The

far s

hore

has

vie

ws

of p

lant

atio

n w

oodl

and

on it

s rid

ges

abov

e an

d oc

casi

onal

mod

ern

bung

alow

s ar

e ne

stle

d in

to th

e si

de o

f the

ridg

e.

Sig

nific

ant w

ildlif

e fe

atur

es a

re th

e m

ix b

etw

een

the

woo

dlan

d bi

rds

occu

pyin

g th

e st

eep

slop

ed w

oodl

and

and

the

sea

bird

s of

the

loch

. T

he c

olou

rs o

f the

rock

s w

ithin

the

woo

dlan

d, th

e ve

geta

tion

they

sup

port

and

the

frequ

ent r

ock

slip

page

add

s lo

cal i

nter

est t

o th

e w

oodl

and.

Th

is s

ide

of th

e lo

ch d

oes

not o

ffer a

ny s

pace

bet

wee

n th

e lo

ch e

dge

and

the

para

llel r

idge

, with

the

road

cl

ingi

ng to

the

botto

m o

f the

ste

ep ro

ck s

ide

of th

e rid

ge.

Th

is is

in c

ontra

st to

the

far s

hore

, whi

ch h

as n

umer

ous

beac

hes

and

grad

ually

rise

s to

the

ridge

som

e di

stan

ce

away

from

the

shor

e.

The

scal

e is

med

ium

to la

rge

and

the

view

is v

ery

open

an

d pa

nora

mic

look

ing

over

the

loch

, whi

lst b

eing

ver

y en

clos

ed a

nd o

verp

ower

ing

whe

n vi

ewin

g th

e cl

ose

and

very

ste

ep s

lope

of t

he p

aral

lel r

idge

beh

ind

this

wes

tern

sh

ore

of L

och

Cao

lispo

rt, w

here

the

road

hug

s in

to th

e la

ndfo

rm.

The

crag

gy a

rea

of w

oodl

and

behi

nd th

e ro

ad a

dds

grea

t loc

al in

tere

st, w

ith s

ome

flora

l div

ersi

ty a

nd th

e fe

rns

and

mos

ses

that

trai

l fro

m th

e fa

llen

rock

s.

The

jagg

ed s

kylin

e to

the

oppo

site

sho

re is

cre

ated

by

the

plan

tatio

n w

oodl

and

on th

e fa

r rid

ges,

and

the

gold

en b

each

es o

n th

e fa

r sho

re s

tand

out

in c

ontra

st to

th

e da

rk g

reen

s of

the

plan

tatio

n.

The

ridge

s in

the

far

dist

ance

are

inte

rlock

ing,

cre

atin

g si

gnifi

cant

line

s in

the

land

scap

e, b

ut th

e ho

rizon

tal l

ine

of th

e lo

ch s

urfa

ce

rem

ains

the

mos

t pro

min

ent l

ine

in th

e vi

ew.

The

soun

d of

sea

bird

s in

the

dist

ance

, woo

dlan

d bi

rds

in th

e w

oodl

and

behi

nd a

nd th

e ge

ntle

app

reci

atio

n of

th

e sc

ene.

The

view

is in

fluen

ced

by th

e ad

ditio

n of

a m

ultit

ude

of

ridge

s w

here

as

man

y ot

her v

iew

s w

ithin

the

NS

A a

re

encl

osed

by

a si

ngle

ridg

e lin

e.

Th

e vi

ew o

f the

ope

n se

a is

from

a s

afe

and

reas

surin

g di

stan

ce, b

ut th

e fe

elin

g of

coa

st a

nd o

pen

sea

is s

till a

si

gnifi

cant

influ

ence

. T

he v

iew

of t

he fa

r par

alle

l rid

ges

fallin

g in

to th

e se

a as

a ‘d

row

ned

land

scap

e’ is

dra

mat

ic.

Th

e vi

ew o

f the

san

dy b

each

es o

n th

e fa

r sho

re is

in

vitin

g.

The

imm

edia

te b

road

leav

ed w

oodl

and

is lu

sh a

nd li

fting

, w

ith it

s br

ight

gre

ens

and

colo

urfu

l roc

ks.

The

re is

ho

wev

er a

n ob

viou

s hu

man

influ

ence

to th

e la

ndsc

ape,

w

ith e

stat

e m

anag

emen

t and

the

intro

duct

ion

of n

on-

nativ

e sp

ecie

s.

Rho

dode

ndro

n is

par

ticul

arly

pre

vale

nt.

Ther

e is

a s

light

‘pen

insu

lar’

feel

ing,

but

the

esta

te a

nd

anci

llary

hou

ses

and

tinke

ring

with

the

land

scap

e w

ith

non-

nativ

e tre

es a

nd s

hrub

s pr

even

ts a

ny re

al fe

elin

gs

of is

olat

ion,

rem

oten

ess

and

exhi

lara

tion.

130

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14. K

napd

ale

NSA

– L

ocha

n B

uic,

with

in th

e pl

anta

tion

area

of t

he p

aral

lel r

idge

s O

bjec

tive

Visu

alEm

otio

nal

The

scen

e is

loca

ted

with

in a

nar

row

tren

ch, w

hich

is

fille

d by

a s

mal

l fre

shw

ater

loch

, giv

ing

the

trenc

h a

flat

base

. T

he s

cene

is im

med

iate

ly s

urro

unde

d an

d en

clos

ed b

y th

e cl

oses

t par

alle

l rid

ge o

n ea

ch s

ide.

Th

e to

pogr

aphy

of t

he ri

dges

is o

bscu

red

by th

e de

nse

plan

tatio

n w

oodl

and.

A

t the

loch

edg

e is

a v

arie

ty o

f aq

uatic

, em

erge

nt a

nd b

anks

ide

vege

tatio

n.

Whi

te

wat

er li

ly fl

oats

on

the

loch

wat

er, w

hich

is fr

inge

d by

co

mm

on re

ed.

Loc

ally

rock

y sh

ores

sup

port

heat

her,

bog

myr

tle a

nd b

ilber

ry, a

mon

gst h

azel

and

birc

h sa

plin

gs.

Aw

ay fr

om th

e ro

cks

soft

cush

ions

of

wat

erlo

gged

Sph

agnu

m m

osse

s ar

e fo

und

The

area

is in

the

hear

t of t

he F

ores

try C

omm

issi

on

plan

tatio

ns, a

nd in

form

al re

crea

tiona

l use

is e

ncou

rage

d.

Any

evi

denc

e of

his

toric

set

tlem

ent i

s ob

scur

ed b

y th

e th

ick

plan

tatio

n, o

r is

abse

nt.

The

pla

ntat

ions

cre

ate

a pr

ickl

y sk

ylin

e, w

hich

dom

inat

es th

e vi

ew w

hen

not

enga

ged

in th

e lo

cal d

etai

l of t

he in

timac

y of

the

loch

an

d its

flor

a.

Occ

asio

nal w

oodl

and

bird

song

is th

e on

ly

back

grou

nd s

ound

.

The

scal

e of

the

scen

e is

sm

all a

nd e

nclo

sed.

Th

e rid

ges

can

be in

timid

atin

g, b

ut th

e lo

ch e

dges

are

ver

y in

timat

e.

The

wid

er v

iew

of t

he p

lant

atio

n co

vere

d rid

ges

is h

omog

enou

s, b

ut th

ere

is a

div

ersi

ty o

f fea

ture

s at

the

loca

l loc

h le

vel,

parti

cula

rly in

the

loch

edg

e flo

ra.

C

olou

r is

also

con

trast

ed b

etw

een

the

dark

mon

ochr

ome

of th

e pl

anta

tion

and

the

inte

rest

of t

he lo

ch, w

ith it

s sm

ooth

sur

face

and

floa

ting

and

emer

gent

veg

etat

ion.

Th

e de

nsity

of t

he p

lant

atio

n re

mov

es a

ny s

ubtle

line

s in

th

e la

ndfo

rm, a

nd th

e w

avy

edge

to th

e lo

ch b

ecom

es

the

pred

omin

ant l

ine

in th

e sc

ene.

Th

e pr

onou

nced

ho

rizon

tal l

ine

of a

loch

sur

face

see

n w

ithin

the

NS

A o

n la

rger

, mor

e op

en lo

chs

is b

lurr

ed o

n th

is s

mal

l loc

han

by it

s em

erge

nt v

eget

atio

n, w

hich

giv

es a

ver

y di

ffere

nt

feel

to th

is s

mal

l, so

ft an

d in

timat

e lo

chan

. Th

e la

ck o

f sou

nd is

of c

onsi

dera

ble

influ

ence

to th

e sc

ene,

with

the

area

s aw

ay fr

om th

e im

med

iate

loch

be

ing

dead

cal

m a

nd s

ilent

. V

iew

ing

from

the

loch

edg

e ad

ds s

ome

wild

life

soun

ds a

nd s

mal

l mov

emen

ts in

the

loch

sur

face

. Th

e im

med

iate

con

trast

s ar

e be

twee

n th

e si

lent

den

sity

of

the

plan

tatio

ns a

nd th

e m

ovem

ent a

nd in

tere

st c

lose

to

the

loch

edg

e, p

artic

ular

ly th

e co

ntrib

utio

n of

the

flow

erin

g pl

ants

in th

e w

ater

and

am

ongs

t the

rock

s.

The

scen

e is

hid

den,

intim

ate,

tran

quil

and

rest

ful.

It

feel

s lik

e a

secr

et p

lace

, and

is re

war

ding

to th

e ey

e af

ter t

he w

alk

thro

ugh

the

mon

oton

ous

plan

tatio

n.

The

fragr

ance

of t

he p

ines

and

loch

-sid

e ve

geta

tion,

and

the

quie

t lap

ping

of t

he lo

ch w

ater

aw

aken

s ot

her s

ense

s to

ap

prec

iate

the

scen

e.

The

scen

e is

ver

y gr

een

and

varie

d.

The

natu

raln

ess

of

the

loch

con

trast

s w

ith th

e ‘m

an-m

ade’

feel

ing

of th

e pl

anta

tion

abov

e, w

hich

ser

ves

to h

eigh

ten

the

view

er’s

aw

aren

ess

and

appr

ecia

tion

of th

e lo

ch a

rea.

Ther

e is

a fe

elin

g of

wan

ting

to s

tay

by th

e lo

ch a

nd h

ide

rath

er th

an v

entu

re b

ack

into

the

coni

fer d

eser

t. T

he

plan

tatio

n ar

ea is

aus

tere

, den

se, d

ark

and

sile

nt.

It is

di

sorie

ntat

ing

and

intim

idat

ing.

In

con

trast

the

loch

are

a is

a h

idde

n oa

sis.

It

feel

s lik

e a

child

ren’

s la

ndsc

ape

and

is a

n ad

vent

ure

som

ewha

t aki

n to

an

over

grow

n ga

rden

. T

he lo

ch is

rem

inis

cent

of a

won

derfu

l gar

den

wild

life

pond

, and

the

view

is c

onst

antly

dra

wn

in to

ap

prec

iate

the

smal

ler s

cale

.

131

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132

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Knapdale National Scenic Area Cultural, Historical and Natural History Background Information

The name ‘Knapdale’ is thought to originate from the Gaelic words ‘Cnap’, meaning hill and ‘Dall’ meaning field, which describes the ridge and trench topography of the area, with many of the trenches between the steep ridges providing small pockets of pasture. Knapdale is rich in natural history and cultural heritage, both of which make a significant contribution to the landscape and what makes this National Scenic Area so very special. Moine Mhor Moine Mhor, locally known as the moss, is Gaelic for ‘Great Moss’ and is a relic landscape that has been forming and evolving for the last 5000 years, with the gradual build up of vegetation developing into peat. The acidic nature of the bog ensures that bacteria normally responsible for the deterioration of dead plant matter are largely absent, thus causing a build up of waterlogged material which eventually becomes peat. The accrual of peat continues and from its current depth of about 4m the bog is rising at a rate of approximately 1mm per year. The uniqueness of the moss is its coastal influence. Being next to the sea the moss grades from the intertidal to shoreline and then saltmarsh before the raised bog. The transition between saltmarsh and bog is botanically of great interest, as the habitat grades from sea water fed marsh to freshwater fed bog. Being one of the last remaining raised peat bogs in the United Kingdom, Moine Mhor was designated as a National Nature Reserve in 1987 and is managed by Scottish Natural Heritage. The waterlogged bog was once much more extensive but a significant amount of land has been improved and drained for agriculture and in the recent past, for grouse shooting. The remaining reserve is still very expansive and wildlife rich, supporting numerous species of dragonfly and butterfly and an array of plants including the insectivorous sundews. At least nine species of Sphagnum are recorded at the site, along with many other species of moss, all contributing to the raised bog system. Bird life includes hen harriers and curlews, along with a number of small songbirds such as whinchats and stonechats, warblers and pipits. Otters are also reported on the River Add, which winds its way through the moss. Atlantic Oakwoods Atlantic oakwood is a woodland type that is restricted to the Atlantic fringes of Europe because of its requirement for a damp humid climate with high rainfall. The Atlantic coast of Britain, Ireland, Spain and France have the largest stronghold of this habitat, which is a rare and important habitat listed within the European Habitats Directive. Consequently, much of the larger tracts of Atlantic oak woodland is designated as a European Special Area of Conservation (SAC). With 35 UK Biodiversity Action Plan Species also found in the Atlantic oakwoods this habitat type is of considerable nature conservation value nationally as well as within the wider European Union, and much of the oak woodland outside the SAC boundary is nationally protected as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) . The parallel ridges of Knapdale are clothed in Atlantic oak woodland wherever plantations are absent. The oak woodland was cleared to make way for commercial forestry and grazing land. Since the national and international importance of the oak woods for nature conservation has been recognised, this clearance now no longer occurs and the remaining native woodland is now appropriately managed and enhanced alongside the commercial stock.

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Crinan Canal The canal was built to link the western coast and its associated islands with the Clyde Estuary, to remove the long journey, either by road or by sea, around the Kintyre Peninsula. Prior to railway travel the route through the Crinan Canal was the fastest mode of travel in the area. The early years of the canal were problematic, with completion behind schedule and over budget, locks not functioning properly and reservoirs collapsing. Sir John Rennie was originally responsible for the canal construction, but the problematic start led to Thomas Telford being brought in to rectify the initial problems, which led to some redesigning and reconstruction and further deepening of the canal in parts. Thomas Telford was also responsible for the piers at Tayvallich and Carisaig. Born in Dumfries-shire, Thomas Telford went on to be one of the greatest engineers of the 18th and 19th centuries, working across the British Isles on many major engineering works, and it was his reputation as an engineering expert that led to the request for him to come and rectify the malfunctioning Crinan Canal in the early 1800s. The canal is now a honey-pot area for boating tourism, with fishing, walking and cycling along the tow path. A number of B and B’s, tea shops and a small hotel have developed as a result of the tourism interest in this area. The Vital Spark is one of the most striking old boats moored at Crinan, which was used in the filming of the BBC dramatisation of the novel Para Handy by Neil Munro, who was a local novelist. Dun Add and other historic associations This rocky outcrop emerges from the flat Moine Mhor to a height of 175 metres. This small hill offers impressive views across the entire Moine Mhor area, and appears deceptively high against its flat surroundings. Dun Add is historically one of the most important sites in Scotland. It is thought that the Scots originated from Ireland, and that they reached Argyll from Ireland at around 500AD. It is from this settlement that the Kingdom of Dalriada is believe to have evolved. Dun Add was the place where the Kings of Dalriada were crowned. At the top of the outcrop is a carved footprint where it is thought that the kings would have placed their foot to receive their anointment. The most famous and last King of Dalriada, Kenneth MacAlpin, would also have been crowned on Dun Add around 800 AD’ He then went on to be Kenneth I, the first King of a unified Scotland after merging the Dalriada crown with that of the Picts. Considerable archaeological work has been undertaken on and around Dun Add, revealing in some detail the likely construction of the fortifications around the hill. The site is designated as a Scheduled Ancient Monument and is cared for by Historic Scotland. Celtic crosses, tiny chapels, including one within a cave, duns and standing stones are a constant reminder of times past throughout the Knapdale area. Kilmory Chapel on the edge of Loch Sween, is thought to be where the Knights Templar, as described by the book ‘The Temple and the Lodge’ lived, worshiped and died. Gravestones at the chapel may be those marking the graves of some Knights Templar. At the top of Loch Calisport is Saint Columba’s Cave. Saint Columba is thought to have used this cave as a safe sanctuary on his crusade from Ireland in the 6th Century. The Dalriada Project ‘Working for a sustainable future by reviving the spirit of the past’ is the vision for this project. With a partnership list that includes local councils, Forest Enterprise, Scottish Natural Heritage, nature conservation charities and the Tourist Board, along with local groups and businesses, this project is very important to the local area. The project has been set up to

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protect and enhance the Dalriada area in terms of its landscape and archaeological, cultural and natural heritage, whilst promoting sustainable tourism and access for all to these precious assets. The project runs an annual festival, encouraging visitors into the area. The festival includes demonstrations about how people would have lived in Dalriada in the fortified Duns, and how they would have worked with the landscape to live, clothe and feed themselves. Linked to and supported by the Dalriada Project was a proposal to reintroduce the European Beaver into the Knapdale area. The Knapdale forests and lochs represent ideal habitat for this species, which has been absent from Scotland for over 400 years. Despite local support, and considerable progress made by Scottish Natural Heritage and Forest Enterprise, the project was not approved and has therefore not been pursued any further. The Dariada Project is also focusing on the rich archaeological heritage of the area, protecting and ensuring sustainable access to the many standing stones, Bronze Age cup-and-ring engravings, burial cairns and fortified Duns. The project is keen to provide imaginative interpretation for these ancient treasures, to ensure that visitors fully appreciate their relevance and contribution to the Knapdale area.

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APPENDIX 4

FIELDWORK OUTPUTS THE TROSSACHS NATIONAL SCENIC AREA

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The

Tros

sach

s N

SA –

Vie

wsc

ape:

Sum

mit

of B

en V

enue

O

bjec

tive

Ana

lysi

s Vi

sual

Exp

erie

nce

Pers

onal

Res

pons

es

Mod

est M

ount

ain

Sum

mit

or H

igh

Hill

sum

mit

in

cent

ral w

este

rn p

oint

of t

he N

SA

.

Rel

ativ

ely

pron

ounc

ed ‘p

eak’

to B

en V

enue

, co

nsis

ting

of th

e m

ost p

rom

inen

t ele

men

t of t

he

Tros

sach

’s to

pogr

aphy

at 7

29 m

etre

s. S

teep

er

uppe

r sec

tions

gra

dual

ly lo

se g

radi

ent w

ith d

ecen

t in

hei

ght.

Terr

ain

of th

e im

med

iate

vie

wpo

int i

s of

ste

ep

gras

sy s

lope

s pu

nctu

ated

regu

larly

by

rock

y ou

tcro

p a

nd e

xpos

ed s

trata

, wel

l wor

n fo

otpa

ths

and

eros

ion

in e

nviro

ns o

f Trig

Poi

nt/C

airn

. C

ragg

y en

viro

nmen

t of i

mm

edia

te v

iew

poin

t ch

ange

s dr

amat

ical

ly a

cros

s th

e vi

ewsh

ed in

to th

e he

art o

f the

NS

A.

Gra

ss a

nd ro

cky

sum

mit,

th

roug

h m

ixed

hea

ther

and

gra

ss m

oorla

nd, a

reas

of

pea

t bog

/mos

s on

flat

ter s

ectio

ns a

nd a

n ab

rupt

tra

nsiti

on to

den

se c

onife

rous

pla

ntat

ion.

With

in

the

plan

tatio

n to

war

ds th

e en

viro

ns o

f Loc

h A

chra

y an

d Lo

ch K

atrin

e cl

ear f

elle

d ar

eas

of

low

er, l

ess

stee

p sl

opes

. B

eyon

d th

e pl

anta

tions

m

erge

with

the

deci

duou

s w

oodl

ands

of t

he L

och

basi

ns.

Ele

men

ts o

f the

vie

wsh

ed a

re v

ast a

nd e

xten

d ac

ross

the

wid

er N

SA

, its

fram

ing

to th

e w

est b

y th

e B

en L

edi m

assi

f, ac

ross

Loc

h A

chra

y an

d Lo

ch V

enac

har,

over

Duk

e’s

Driv

e P

lant

atio

ns to

M

ente

ith H

ills

and

beyo

nd.

Vie

wpo

int a

fford

s ex

tens

ive

vist

as a

cros

s Lo

ch K

atrin

e an

d its

is

land

s an

d w

oode

d in

lets

, to

sign

ifica

ntly

hig

her

and

exte

nsiv

e m

ount

ains

of t

he N

atio

nal P

ark

and

beyo

nd.

Hor

izon

s ar

e ge

nera

lly d

ista

nt.

Bur

ns a

nd li

vely

mou

ntai

n st

ream

s pu

nctu

ate

the

hills

ides

bef

ore

bein

g lo

st in

pla

ntat

ion

woo

ds.

A m

assi

ve p

anor

amic

vis

ta fr

om w

hich

del

inea

tion

of o

nly

the

NS

A is

arti

ficia

l to

the

appr

ecia

tion

of it

s qu

aliti

es.

Sca

le v

ast,

a se

nse

of e

xpos

ure

perv

ades

from

the

view

poin

t, al

thou

gh th

is is

so

on a

llevi

ated

a s

hort

dist

ance

from

the

sum

mit

itsel

f. V

ista

s ta

ke in

a v

ery

com

plex

as

wel

l as

mas

sive

inte

rpla

y of

land

-cov

er, t

erra

in

and

wat

er e

lem

ents

. O

pen

sum

mits

and

den

se p

lant

atio

n ju

xtap

ose

with

ope

n w

ater

loch

s an

d br

oad-

leav

ed c

onife

rous

woo

dlan

d.

Col

ours

in th

e la

ndsc

ape

are

gene

rally

mut

ed, a

lthou

gh th

e in

fluen

ce o

f ov

erca

st w

eath

er c

ondi

tions

may

be

in p

art r

espo

nsib

le a

t tim

e of

sur

vey.

Th

ere

is h

owev

er c

ontra

st in

tone

, with

the

loch

sur

face

s an

d co

nife

rous

pl

anta

tions

pre

sent

ing

dark

sol

id m

asse

s, w

hils

t the

ope

n m

oor a

nd b

road

-le

aved

woo

dlan

d of

fer a

mor

e te

xtur

ed a

ppea

ranc

e. P

atch

es o

f roc

ky o

utcr

op

and

the

mor

e di

stan

t vie

ws

of m

ount

ain

sugg

est a

rugg

ed a

ppea

ranc

e to

the

land

scap

e.

Vas

tnes

s of

the

sky

and

exte

nsiv

e tra

cts

of o

pen

wat

er p

rovi

de a

deg

ree

of

mov

emen

t in

the

land

scap

e, a

gain

hea

vily

dep

ende

nt o

n pr

evai

ling

wea

ther

co

nditi

ons.

Th

e vi

ewpo

int o

ffers

a v

ery

quie

t env

ironm

ent a

lthou

gh th

e w

ind

in th

e gr

asse

s an

d ro

cks

intro

duce

s a

very

nat

ural

sou

nd e

lem

ent.

On

asce

nt a

nd d

esce

nt,

nois

e fro

m m

ount

ain

stre

ams

and

casc

ades

is c

onst

ant o

utsi

de th

e pl

anta

tions

w

hich

flat

ten

mos

t sou

nd e

xcep

t bird

song

. W

hils

t the

pan

oram

a of

fere

d at

the

view

poin

t is

of a

full

3600

, the

eye

is d

raw

n no

t exc

lusi

vely

to th

e im

med

iate

NS

A ,

but t

o th

e no

rth a

nd w

est,

into

the

hear

t of

hig

hlan

d S

cotla

nd. C

onve

rsel

y, v

ista

s on

the

asce

nt to

the

view

poin

t are

of

ten

clos

ed in

or c

onst

rain

ed b

y pl

anta

tion

or re

lief o

f lan

dfor

m.

A m

ajor

ex

perie

nce

of th

e as

cent

of B

en V

enue

from

loch

Ach

ray

is th

e op

enin

g ou

t of

the

sudd

en v

ista

at r

idge

bet

wee

n th

e A

chra

y an

d K

atrin

e ba

sins

. Th

e vi

ews

affo

rd a

cle

ar a

ppre

ciat

ion

of th

e tra

nsiti

onal

land

scap

e of

the

Men

teith

Hill

s an

d Tr

ossa

chs

from

the

past

oral

low

land

s no

rth o

f Ste

rling

th

roug

h th

e C

alan

der a

rea

thro

ugh

the

chan

ging

relie

f and

wat

ersc

ape

of th

e N

SA

to th

e hi

ghla

nds

of L

LTN

P.

The

vist

a in

to th

e N

SA

from

Ben

Ven

ue p

rese

nts

a ve

ry c

ompl

ex p

atch

wor

k of

op

en m

oorla

nd a

nd ro

cky

outc

rop,

woo

dlan

d an

d w

ater

scap

e. H

ere

ther

e ar

e co

mpl

ex m

osai

c co

mbi

natio

ns o

f bro

adle

af w

oodl

ands

(in

mid

spr

ing)

, co

nife

rous

blo

cks

of p

lant

atio

n an

d sc

ared

are

as o

f rec

ently

felle

d pl

anta

tion.

The

vist

as fr

om B

en V

enue

offe

r an

insp

iring

and

exc

iting

gl

imps

e of

the

gran

deur

and

wild

ness

of t

rue

upla

nd S

cotla

nd.

It

draw

s th

e ey

e ou

t of a

nd a

way

from

the

NS

A it

self,

alth

ough

th

e de

tail

and

intri

cacy

of t

he la

ndsc

ape

clos

er to

han

d is

ne

verth

eles

s hi

ghly

attr

activ

e.

This

vie

w p

oint

is

the

site

of a

cle

ar s

tepp

ing

ston

e fro

m th

e fa

mili

ar a

nd s

afe

past

ure

and

settl

emen

t of t

he c

entra

l Sco

tland

be

lt, in

to th

e w

ild a

nd ru

gged

inte

rior.

Ele

men

ts o

f the

nor

ther

ly a

nd w

este

rly v

ista

s ar

e at

firs

t su

rpris

ing

and

then

exc

iting

and

cha

lleng

ing.

The

offe

r of r

eal

adve

ntur

e is

clo

se a

t han

d.

The

view

s of

fer g

reat

con

trast

bet

wee

n th

e in

timac

y of

the

Tros

sach

s N

SA

itse

lf an

d th

e w

ildne

ss b

eyon

d. T

oget

her t

hese

el

emen

ts m

ake

for a

trul

y cl

assi

c vi

ew.

But

the

rew

ard

of th

e vi

ews

com

es o

nly

afte

r rea

l effo

rt, a

nd th

e cl

imb

to th

e su

mm

it is

con

side

rabl

e if

not t

ruly

cha

lleng

ing

or

adve

ntur

ous.

Nev

erth

eles

s, th

e fir

st o

peni

ng o

ut o

f nor

th a

nd

wes

terly

vis

tas

is a

t onc

e su

rpris

ing,

exc

iting

and

trul

y gr

and.

Th

e ef

fort

requ

ired

serv

es to

am

plify

the

rew

ard

on c

ompl

etio

n.

Ben

Ven

ue fl

atte

rs to

dec

eive

, with

its

dist

inct

ive

alpi

ne p

rofil

e (fr

om th

e ea

st) s

ugge

stin

g gr

eate

r hei

ght a

nd c

halle

nge

than

it

real

ly p

rese

nts.

Fr

om th

e su

mm

it of

Ben

Ven

ue th

e N

SA

itse

lf is

ple

asin

g to

be

hold

, com

plex

in p

atte

rn a

nd te

xtur

e, w

ater

and

land

, but

re

pres

ents

a s

mal

l ele

men

t of a

ll on

vie

w.

It is

how

ever

a

dist

inct

ste

p ch

ange

bet

wee

n w

hat h

as b

een

befo

re a

nd w

hat

lies

ahea

d –

A g

atew

ay to

the

high

land

s, a

nd a

t the

sam

e tim

e a

safe

, man

agea

ble

sam

ple

of w

hat l

ies

befo

re a

mor

e de

term

ined

trav

elle

r. Th

e is

land

s an

d de

nsel

y w

oode

d in

lets

of e

aste

rn L

och

Kat

rine

offe

r bot

h in

tere

st a

nd s

oftn

ess

to th

e w

ilder

asp

ect o

f the

w

este

rn p

arts

of t

he N

SA

, with

hid

den

corn

ers

sugg

estin

g se

cret

pl

aces

and

she

lter f

rom

the

high

land

ele

men

ts.

138

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The

Tros

sach

s N

SA –

Vie

wsc

ape:

Bla

ck W

ater

Mar

sh

Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al E

xper

ienc

e Pe

rson

al R

espo

nses

Th

e pr

edom

inan

t fea

ture

with

in th

e B

lack

Wat

er M

arsh

are

a is

th

e im

med

iate

exp

anse

of f

lat m

arsh

land

. T

his

cent

ral l

ow ly

ing

flat m

arsh

is fr

amed

by

encr

oach

ing

plan

tatio

n w

oodl

and

on

high

er g

roun

d to

eac

h si

de.

Occ

asio

nal s

elf s

et b

irch

dots

the

fore

grou

nd.

The

tuss

ocky

gra

ssla

nd, r

ush

and

spha

gnum

mar

sh c

ontin

ues

for s

ome

dist

ance

, and

is e

vent

ually

met

by

dist

ant h

ills.

B

eing

at

suc

h a

dist

ance

, the

ir co

lour

s ar

e of

mur

ky p

urpl

e hu

es a

nd

are

frequ

ently

clo

uded

ove

r. Th

is m

arsh

land

has

an

isol

ated

farm

stea

d an

d op

en g

razi

ng.

It

is c

onsi

dera

bly

flatte

r tha

n th

e m

ajor

ity o

f the

Tro

ssac

hs N

SA

.

The

mar

shla

nd o

ffers

an

open

relie

f fro

m th

e ra

ther

enc

lose

d pl

anta

tion

woo

dlan

d th

at s

urro

unds

it.

To

trave

l fro

m a

dar

k an

d co

nfin

ed c

onife

rous

pla

ntat

ion

into

the

open

and

larg

e sc

ale

of

the

mar

shla

nd is

a c

ompl

ete

cont

rast

. Th

e vi

ew is

sim

pler

than

mos

t in

the

NS

A, w

ith a

sub

tle b

lend

of

gree

n an

d re

ds, w

ith th

e la

tter a

s a

resu

lt of

old

er ru

sh

vege

tatio

n an

d va

riatio

n in

the

spha

gnum

col

oura

tion.

C

ontra

st is

als

o ev

iden

t bet

wee

n th

e lo

ng v

iew

of t

he fl

at

fore

grou

nd a

nd th

e st

ark

chan

ge to

hig

her p

eaks

in th

e ve

ry fa

r di

stan

ce.

Wea

ther

is a

sig

nific

ant i

nflu

ence

, with

the

mar

shla

nd lo

okin

g bl

eak

and

mur

ky in

bad

wea

ther

, yet

rem

aini

ng c

alm

and

stil

l.

In fi

ne w

eath

er it

is im

agin

ed th

at th

e gr

eens

and

reds

will

be

an

attra

ctiv

e fe

atur

e, a

nd th

at b

ird a

nd in

sect

life

will

be

prev

alen

t, th

us a

ddin

g m

ovem

ent a

nd in

tere

st.

A re

fresh

ing

feel

ing

of o

penn

ess

afte

r the

enc

lose

d pl

anta

tion

is

imm

edia

tely

felt

whe

n th

e m

arsh

land

ope

ns u

p.

It is

a re

al

esca

pe fr

om th

e fo

rest

. Th

e is

olat

ion

of th

e m

arsh

land

, and

its

cont

rast

to it

s pl

anta

tion

surr

ound

ings

mak

e it

feel

like

a s

ecre

t val

ley,

tran

quil

and

undi

scov

ered

, des

pite

its

obvi

ous

use

as g

razi

ng la

nd.

The

wat

erlo

gged

nat

ure

of th

e m

arsh

pre

vent

s an

y ve

ntur

e fo

rwar

d, b

ut it

is a

ppre

ciat

ed fr

om it

s ed

ge.

The

view

is q

uite

diff

eren

t fro

m o

ther

s in

the

area

and

its

isol

ated

fa

rmst

ead

and

tradi

tiona

l gra

zing

man

agem

ent o

f the

mar

sh

give

s a

‘tim

e st

ood

still

’ fee

ling.

A

gric

ultu

ral i

nflu

ence

s ar

e ve

ry

few

in th

e Tr

ossa

chs

NS

A, a

nd th

e tra

ditio

nal a

nd e

xtre

mel

y lo

w

key

pres

ence

her

e do

es n

ot d

etra

ct fr

om th

e ov

eral

l fee

ling

of

natu

raln

ess

in th

e w

ider

are

a, y

et it

is in

kee

ping

that

this

uni

t is

on th

e ed

ge o

f the

eas

tern

NS

A b

ound

ary,

bey

ond

whi

ch g

razi

ng

land

is c

omm

onpl

ace.

Th

e ke

y qu

aliti

es o

f thi

s vi

ew a

re it

s se

crec

y, tr

anqu

illity

and

su

rpris

ing

diffe

renc

e fro

m th

e m

ajor

ity o

f the

NS

A, y

et th

e di

stan

t pe

aks

rem

ind

the

view

er o

f the

pre

senc

e of

the

mor

e ty

pica

l la

ndsc

ape.

139

Page 148: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

The

Tros

sach

s N

SA –

Vie

wsc

ape:

Eas

t Sho

re, G

len

Fing

las

Res

ervo

ir O

bjec

tive

Ana

lysi

s Vi

sual

Exp

erie

nce

Pers

onal

Res

pons

e A

vie

w o

f Loc

h, w

oodl

and

and

low

mou

ntai

n, h

igh

hills

. A

long

, sof

tly c

onve

x rid

gelin

e de

linea

tes

a so

lid, r

egul

ar a

spec

t hi

llsid

e ag

ains

t the

sky

. La

nd c

over

is a

ble

nd o

f for

estry

(on

the

low

er a

nd m

id s

lope

s),

cons

istin

g o

f con

ifero

us p

lant

atio

n, p

ocke

ts o

f dec

iduo

us

woo

dlan

d, p

artic

ular

ly b

y th

e lo

ch s

hore

, with

gra

ss a

nd ro

cky

outc

rops

pun

ctua

ting

othe

rwis

e re

gula

r ang

le o

f slo

pe to

dis

tinct

ho

rizon

.

Bol

d op

en h

oriz

on to

nor

th w

est,

beco

min

g en

croa

ched

by

tree

cove

r to

the

slig

htly

low

er s

outh

- wes

tern

ext

ent o

f vie

wsh

ed.

Upp

er e

xten

t of w

oodl

and

very

irre

gula

r and

‘nat

ural

ised

’. S

mal

l is

land

s of

gra

ssla

nd p

unct

uate

the

low

er m

ass

of tr

eesc

ape.

U

pper

slo

pes

pred

omin

antly

gra

ssla

nd w

ith m

ossy

trac

ts a

roun

d ro

cky

outc

rops

and

sm

all p

ocke

ts o

f scr

ee.

Sm

all w

oode

d is

land

in th

e re

serv

oir a

lmos

t im

poss

ible

to re

ad

agai

nst t

he b

ack-

drop

of w

oode

d sl

ope.

Cle

ar la

yere

d sp

lit o

f the

vie

wsh

ed. –

Wat

er, p

lant

atio

n, fe

ll, to

sk

y.

A s

impl

e ba

ndin

g, b

ut w

ith ir

regu

lar b

ound

arie

s / t

rans

ition

fro

m w

oodl

and

to o

pen

fell.

A

med

ium

to la

rge

scal

e la

ndsc

ape,

with

ext

ensi

ve v

iew

s no

rth,

but o

ut-w

ith th

e N

SA

. Th

e m

iddl

e di

stan

ce s

olid

hor

izon

pr

esen

ts a

ver

y so

lid a

nd a

brup

t blo

ck o

n m

ore

dist

ant v

iew

s.

The

wat

ersc

ape

of th

e fo

regr

ound

offe

rs a

n op

enne

ss to

an

othe

rwis

e en

clos

ed a

spec

t. T

he c

ompo

sitio

n of

the

view

sim

ple

(ban

ded)

. Te

xtur

e is

con

trast

ing

betw

een

the

loch

sur

face

- ev

er c

hang

ing,

th

e co

nife

rous

and

dec

iduo

us w

oodl

and

and

open

fell

and

rock

. Th

e un

iform

, dar

k gr

een

of th

e do

min

ant p

lant

atio

n w

oodl

and

cont

rast

s w

ith th

e so

fter a

nd fr

eshe

r gre

ens

of th

e br

oad-

leav

ed

trees

and

the

mor

e m

uted

gre

ens

and

brow

ns o

f the

ope

n gr

assl

and.

C

lear

line

s in

land

scap

e ar

e ev

iden

t at t

he w

ater

s ed

ge a

nd a

t th

e sk

ylin

e.

The

Gle

n di

d ha

ve a

pea

cefu

l atm

osph

ere,

but

the

nois

e of

w

ater

cour

ses

and

bird

song

avo

ided

sile

nce

or s

tilln

ess.

Th

e w

ider

uni

t as

a w

hole

, inc

lusi

ve o

f the

wes

tern

fells

ide

and

open

rock

and

gra

ss/h

eath

er s

umm

it w

as la

rge

in s

cale

, rou

nded

in

form

but

with

are

as o

f bro

ken

surfa

ce a

nd ro

cky

expo

sure

, w

ithou

t (ge

nera

lly) b

eing

pre

cipi

tous

. Lo

wer

and

mid

dle

fells

ides

di

spla

yed

a ge

nera

l uni

form

ity in

slo

pe a

ngle

A d

ram

atic

vis

ta a

fter t

he e

nclo

sure

of t

he w

oodl

ands

and

the

bottl

enec

k of

the

valle

y en

tranc

e fo

llow

ing

a st

eep

clim

b fro

m th

e ha

mle

t of B

rig’ O

’ Tur

k.

This

ope

ning

out

in re

lativ

ely

sudd

en a

nd d

ram

atic

way

, and

its

isol

atio

n fro

m th

e co

ncen

tratio

n of

loch

s, ro

ads

and

settl

emen

t in

the

Loch

s V

enec

har/K

atrin

e co

rrid

or a

fford

s th

e gl

en a

sen

se o

f se

crec

y an

d pe

acef

ulne

ss.

The

heav

y br

oad-

leav

ed, a

ncie

nt w

oodl

and

abov

e th

e va

lley

entra

nce

seem

s to

gua

rd th

e se

cret

gle

n.

The

open

ing

out o

f the

vis

ta d

raw

s th

e ey

e al

ong

the

linea

r re

serv

oir a

nd w

ater

scap

e to

the

open

and

dra

mat

ic fe

ll of

Mea

ll C

ala.

Th

e vi

ewsc

ape

offe

rs d

ram

a an

d st

reng

th w

ithou

t bei

ng

spec

tacu

lar o

r ove

rbea

ring.

It s

ugge

sts

wild

er th

ings

abo

ve a

nd

beyo

nd, b

ut a

fford

s no

tem

ptin

g gl

imps

e. T

he m

ass

of M

eall

Gai

nmhe

ich

/Ben

Ann

a pl

atea

u st

ands

as

a bu

ttres

s ag

ains

t w

hat g

reat

er th

ings

mig

ht li

e be

yond

. Th

e vi

ewsc

ape

offe

rs th

eref

ore

a re

al c

ontra

st b

etw

een

the

intim

acy

of th

e sh

orel

ine

woo

ds a

nd th

e op

enne

ss a

nd e

xpos

ure

of th

e fe

ll to

p an

d pl

atea

u ab

ove,

all

with

in a

rela

tive

com

pact

sp

atia

l uni

t. C

olou

r and

text

ure,

par

ticul

arly

of t

he n

ewly

em

ergi

ng b

road

leaf

fo

liage

sta

ndin

g in

com

forti

ng c

ontra

st to

the

slig

ht h

int o

f m

enac

e of

fere

d by

the

rock

y ex

posu

re o

f the

nei

ghbo

urin

g up

per

slop

es.

The

over

-rid

ing

char

acte

r of t

he g

len

is o

ne o

f sep

arat

ion

(but

no

t iso

latio

n) a

nd p

eace

fuln

ess.

140

Page 149: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

The

Tros

sach

s N

SA –

Vie

wsc

ape:

Loc

h A

chra

y O

bjec

tive

Ana

lysi

s Vi

sual

Exp

erie

nce

Pers

onal

Res

pons

es

Vie

ws

take

n fro

m v

ario

us v

iew

ing

poin

ts a

roun

d Lo

ch A

chra

y.

The

loch

itse

lf re

mai

ns th

e ce

ntra

l the

me.

Im

med

iate

vis

ual

boun

darie

s re

mai

n tig

ht a

roun

d th

e lo

ch b

asin

, whi

ch is

den

sely

ve

geta

ted

with

bro

adle

aved

woo

dlan

d on

the

low

er s

lope

s,

grad

ually

gra

ding

out

to c

onife

rous

pla

ntat

ions

abo

ve.

The

co

nife

rous

pla

ntat

ion

form

s th

e ho

rizon

line

in th

e m

ajor

ity o

f vi

ews,

thus

cre

atin

g a

saw

0too

thed

edg

e to

the

horiz

on.

Lo

ch s

hore

s gi

ve w

ay to

wet

woo

dlan

d of

will

ow a

nd a

lder

, lus

h w

ith m

oss

and

dens

e ru

shes

, whi

ch g

rade

s in

to th

e br

oadl

eave

d w

oodl

and

if th

e lo

wer

slo

pes,

whi

ch is

dom

inat

ed b

y bi

rch

but

has

sign

ifica

nt o

ak a

nd a

sh.

The

loch

is a

cces

sibl

e ar

ound

m

uch

of it

s ed

ge.

Occ

asio

nal l

ong

dist

ance

vie

ws

are

caug

ht in

som

e lo

catio

ns,

reve

alin

g ve

ry d

ista

nt m

ount

ains

. A

min

ority

of v

iew

s ar

ound

th

e lo

ch re

veal

the

odd

glim

pse

of th

e M

ente

ith H

ills

in th

e so

uth

east

. B

en V

enue

is lo

cate

d to

the

wes

t, an

d w

hen

in v

iew

bec

omes

a

prom

inen

t fea

ture

with

its

typi

cal u

plan

d fo

rm a

nd v

eget

atio

n in

clud

ing

bare

rock

, hea

ther

, bilb

erry

and

sca

ttere

d tre

es.

Rec

ent c

lear

-felli

ng o

f con

ifero

us tr

ees

has

left

star

k tre

eles

s pa

tche

s w

ith d

istu

rbed

gro

und.

Ti

gh-M

or is

a d

istin

ctiv

e bu

ildin

g w

ith a

form

al la

wne

d fro

ntag

e,

coni

cal t

ower

s an

d gr

ey s

tone

wal

ls.

A fu

rther

hot

el is

situ

ated

on

the

sout

h w

est s

hore

and

a s

mal

l hou

se is

tuck

ed in

to th

e lo

wer

slo

pes

of th

e lo

ch b

asin

. T

he h

isto

ric T

ross

achs

Chu

rch

blen

ds w

ell i

nto

the

loch

sid

e an

d is

gen

eral

ly o

nly

visi

ble

from

th

e so

uthe

rn s

hore

. Ja

pane

se k

notw

eed

is p

rese

nt a

long

the

Pas

s of

Tro

ssac

hs ro

ad

on th

e no

rther

n sh

ore

of th

e lo

ch, w

hich

sig

nific

antly

det

ract

s fro

m th

e w

oodl

and,

but

is c

urre

ntly

loca

lised

.

The

loch

rem

ains

the

dom

inan

t fea

ture

form

all

view

poin

ts, a

nd

the

eye

is a

lway

s dr

awn

back

to it

. T

he lo

ch b

asin

sid

es

prog

ress

in h

oriz

onta

l stri

pes

of b

road

leav

ed w

oodl

and,

mix

ed

woo

dlan

d an

d th

en c

onife

rous

woo

dlan

d at

the

high

er s

lope

s, a

ll ge

nera

lly a

t the

sm

all t

o m

ediu

m s

cale

. T

his

is th

en c

ontra

sted

w

ith th

e di

stan

t bar

e m

ount

ains

whe

n th

e ge

nera

lly c

onst

rain

ed

view

s en

able

a m

ore

dist

ant g

limps

e of

far a

way

mou

ntai

ns.

W

ith g

ener

ally

mor

e im

med

iate

vie

ws

dom

inat

ing

the

scen

e, th

e oc

casi

onal

dis

tant

hill

or m

ount

ain

is n

ot im

posi

ng a

nd th

eir s

ize

is n

ever

fully

app

reci

ated

, how

ever

vie

ws

of th

e di

stan

t hill

s do

im

prov

e if

a vi

ew is

take

n fro

m a

littl

e fu

rther

up

the

loch

bas

in.

Ben

Ven

ue is

in th

e m

iddl

e di

stan

ce w

hen

view

s ar

e ta

ken

to th

e w

est,

whi

ch is

a re

fresh

ing

cont

rast

to th

e ric

h gr

een

loch

slo

pes.

O

nly

whe

n as

sess

ing

the

scen

e in

this

dire

ctio

n is

the

eye

draw

n w

ith in

tere

st to

a g

reat

er d

ista

nce.

B

are

rock

s sp

lash

ed w

ith

bilb

erry

lead

you

thro

ugh

the

scen

e to

the

dist

ant s

umm

it.

The

land

scap

e st

ill re

mai

ns c

omfo

rtabl

e an

d B

en V

enue

doe

s no

t im

pose

but

offe

rs a

n un

thre

aten

ing

chal

leng

e.

Ther

e is

a d

iver

sity

of c

olou

r and

text

ure

in th

e lo

ch b

asin

, all

asso

ciat

ed w

ith th

e va

riety

of w

oodl

and

in a

rang

e of

gre

en

hues

. T

he lo

ch b

asin

app

ears

hor

izon

tally

laye

red

as a

resu

lt.

The

loch

itse

lf va

ries

sign

ifica

ntly

in v

aryi

ng w

eath

er, b

eing

in

cred

ibly

refle

ctiv

e of

the

scen

e ab

ove

it in

cal

m, b

ut lo

osin

g al

l su

ch m

irror

imag

es if

ther

e is

a s

light

cha

nge

tow

ards

mor

e un

settl

ed w

eath

er.

Circ

ling

gulls

ove

r the

loch

bre

ak th

e ot

herw

ise

quie

tnes

s, w

ith th

e ba

ckgr

ound

hum

of a

n oc

casi

onal

ve

hicl

e.

Ach

ray

Wat

er is

in n

otab

le c

ontra

st to

the

usua

lly c

alm

loch

, with

its

bub

blin

g rif

fles

and

wid

e sh

allo

w m

eand

er a

ttrac

ting

mor

e w

ildlif

e.

Woo

dlan

d bi

rdso

ng a

nd b

lueb

ell c

arpe

ts ta

ke y

ou b

ack

into

the

broa

d-le

aved

woo

dlan

d ar

eas,

whi

ch a

re m

uch

mor

e in

timat

e an

d se

clud

ed, w

ith d

appl

ed li

ght a

mon

gst t

he v

arie

ty o

f gre

en

shad

es a

nd m

ossy

mou

nds.

The

loch

bas

in is

idyl

lic a

nd re

laxi

ng.

Cha

nges

in li

ght a

nd

wea

ther

are

am

plifi

ed b

y th

e lo

ch, b

ut th

e sc

ene

cont

inue

s to

re

mai

n so

ft an

d un

impo

sing

. T

he s

cene

is w

arm

ed b

y th

e vi

vid

rang

e of

gre

en s

hade

s.

The

wet

woo

dlan

ds a

re a

coo

l and

intim

ate

expe

rienc

e w

here

a

feel

ing

of tr

anqu

ility

and

clo

sene

ss to

nat

ure

is a

ppre

ciat

ed.

Th

e w

oodl

and

is fu

ll of

bird

song

and

life

, yet

the

mor

e op

en lo

ch

basi

n is

dev

oid

of a

ny o

bvio

us w

ildlif

e ot

her t

han

circ

ling

gulls

.

Pas

ture

land

is li

mite

d to

a c

oupl

e of

loca

tions

onl

y an

d co

nseq

uent

ly a

gric

ultu

ral t

ies

to th

e la

ndsc

ape

are

lack

ing.

Lo

ch A

chra

y is

sof

t, ca

lm, w

elco

min

g an

d ve

ry a

cces

sibl

e.

Its

unim

posi

ng a

nd re

laxe

d be

auty

mak

es it

an

invi

ting

plac

e w

here

ho

urs

can

be id

led

away

. Ti

gh-M

or lo

oks

like

a fa

iryta

le c

astle

and

add

s so

me

ench

antm

ent a

nd in

trigu

e, a

long

with

the

hist

oric

al T

ross

achs

ch

urch

. M

irror

refle

ctio

ns o

f the

woo

ded

slop

es o

n th

e lo

ch s

urfa

ce a

dd

furth

er h

arm

ony

to w

hat i

s a

sim

ply

beau

tiful

sce

ne.

The

lack

of

dram

a in

the

view

scap

e do

es n

ot re

duce

its

spec

ial v

alue

. In

co

ntra

st, i

ts in

timac

y, s

ymm

etry

, cal

mne

ss, s

afet

y of

a p

eace

ful

cent

ral l

och

lifte

d by

vib

rant

col

oure

d bu

t gen

tle s

lope

s m

akes

Lo

ch A

chra

y a

plac

e of

rela

xed

and

sim

plis

tic b

eaut

y.

141

Page 150: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

The

Tros

sach

s N

SA –

Vie

wsc

ape:

Loc

h D

runk

ie

Obj

ectiv

e A

naly

sis

Visu

al E

xper

ienc

e Pe

rson

al R

espo

nses

Lo

ch D

runk

ie is

cen

tral t

o th

e sc

ene

in it

s lo

catio

n w

ithin

the

view

, but

doe

s no

t in

any

way

dom

inat

e it.

Th

e lo

ch is

hig

hly

refle

ctiv

e an

d gl

ass

like,

pro

vidi

ng d

ark

and

rich

colo

urs.

S

tream

s ar

e ev

iden

t flo

win

g do

wn

the

hills

ides

tow

ards

the

loch

, an

d fe

n ar

eas

are

pres

ent i

n th

e lo

w-ly

ing

flats

that

mer

ge in

to

the

loch

edg

e.

An

inte

rlock

ing

netw

ork

of h

ills

slop

e fro

m e

ach

side

of t

he

scen

e, c

over

ed b

y th

ree

mai

n ve

geta

tion

type

s: p

lant

atio

n w

oodl

and,

ope

n tu

ssoc

ky g

rass

land

and

you

ng w

oodl

and

patc

hes

of b

irch

with

occ

asio

nal r

owan

. Th

e pl

anta

tion

woo

dlan

d co

mes

righ

t to

the

loch

edg

e in

som

e pl

aces

and

ther

e is

a g

reat

er v

arie

ty o

f spe

cies

pre

sent

her

e th

an in

oth

er a

reas

with

in th

e N

SA

, inc

ludi

ng s

itka

spru

ce,

Nor

way

spr

uce

and

larc

h, w

hich

giv

es a

wid

er d

iver

sity

of c

olou

r am

ongs

t the

pla

ntat

ion

bloc

ks.

Ope

n tu

ssoc

ky g

rass

land

incl

udes

are

as o

f bra

cken

and

als

o he

athe

r. Y

oung

sel

f set

birc

h ar

e do

tted

acro

ss th

ese

mor

e op

en a

reas

, whi

ch in

tim

e w

ill b

ecom

e m

ore

encl

osed

as

the

woo

dlan

d de

velo

ps.

Youn

g bi

rch

woo

dlan

d is

em

ergi

ng a

roun

d th

e ar

ea.

It is

felt

that

the

scen

e w

ill d

evel

op a

s th

ese

trees

mat

ure.

D

ista

nt h

ills

are

in th

e lo

ng v

iew

, and

are

dra

ped

in c

loud

.

Add

ition

al fe

atur

es a

re s

mal

ler i

n sc

ale;

old

sto

ne w

alls

topp

ed

with

pos

t and

wire

fenc

ing

and

a sm

all r

uine

d hu

t hin

t at p

ast

land

use

s.

The

sky

cont

ribut

es to

the

over

all s

cene

, add

ing

furth

er c

olou

r, pa

ttern

s an

d lig

ht, a

nd it

too

is re

flect

ed in

the

loch

wat

er.

It is

imag

ined

that

ther

e w

ould

be

grea

t div

ersi

ty in

the

scen

e be

twee

n se

ason

s, p

artic

ular

ly w

ith re

gard

to c

hang

ing

colo

urs.

One

of t

he k

ey fe

atur

es o

f thi

s vi

ewsh

ed is

the

inte

rlock

ing

and

laye

red

jigsa

w o

f slo

pes

from

the

fore

grou

nd ri

ght b

ack

to th

e di

stan

t hill

s, a

ll of

whi

ch p

roce

ed d

own

to th

e ce

ntra

l loc

h.

This

laye

ring,

alo

ng w

ith s

ubtle

line

ar fe

atur

es s

uch

as

tum

bled

own

ston

e w

alls

, offe

rs th

e ey

e a

rout

e th

roug

h th

e la

ndsc

ape,

from

the

fore

grou

nd o

f rou

gh g

rass

land

and

fen

and

loch

edg

e, to

the

inte

rmed

iate

var

ied

patc

hwor

k of

slo

pes,

and

th

en o

n to

war

ds th

e di

stan

t bar

e fe

lls.

The

loch

itse

lf ap

pear

s to

mea

nder

thro

ugh

the

land

scap

e to

war

ds a

van

ishi

ng p

oint

, alm

ost r

iver

-like

in fo

rm, a

nd fu

rther

pr

ovid

es a

rout

e in

to th

e sc

ene.

Lo

ch D

runk

ie is

cal

m, s

moo

th

and

high

ly re

flect

ive,

with

a m

irror

imag

e of

the

land

scap

e cl

early

se

en, w

hich

add

s em

phas

is to

the

vani

shin

g po

int w

ith th

e st

rong

ang

les

of th

e sl

opes

bei

ng re

pres

ente

d sy

mm

etric

ally

in

the

wat

er.

The

varie

ty a

nd in

tens

ity o

f col

our m

akes

an

impo

rtant

co

ntrib

utio

n, w

ith th

e br

acke

n lit

ter b

eing

a d

istin

ctiv

e or

ange

, th

e va

riety

of c

onife

rous

spe

cies

offe

ring

a ra

nge

of d

ark

gree

ns

and

the

youn

g bi

rch

sapl

ings

add

ing

a br

ight

gre

en fr

eshn

ess.

Th

ese

colo

urs

are

vivi

dly

refle

cted

in th

e lo

ch s

urfa

ce.

The

com

plex

ity o

f col

our,

lines

and

text

ure

is w

arm

and

en

cour

agin

g, a

nd th

is c

ombi

ned

with

the

visu

al jo

urne

y in

to th

e la

ndsc

ape,

whi

ch b

ecko

ns th

e vi

ewer

furth

er a

nd te

mpt

s ex

plor

atio

n be

yond

that

whi

ch is

cur

rent

ly s

een.

Th

ere

is a

real

fe

elin

g of

intri

gue

abou

t whe

re th

e la

ndsc

ape

will

lead

. Th

e ey

e is

lead

aro

und

and

thro

ugh

the

entir

e vi

ew b

y its

co

mpo

sitio

n; fr

om th

e fo

regr

ound

righ

t tow

ards

the

far d

ista

nce,

an

d im

porta

ntly

the

eye

is a

lso

brou

ght b

ack

into

the

near

er

grou

nd, a

nd a

roun

d its

com

plex

ity o

f fea

ture

s.

Not

all

feat

ures

ar

e se

en o

n th

e fir

st g

limps

e, a

nd a

s th

e ey

e tra

vels

aro

und,

new

fe

atur

es a

re s

een.

In

this

sen

se it

is fe

lt th

at th

e vi

ew c

onfo

rms

to a

ll th

e ba

sic

rule

s of

a la

ndsc

ape

pain

ting.

The

land

scap

e sh

apes

and

form

are

in c

ompl

ete

harm

ony,

with

th

e lo

ch b

eing

per

fect

ly fr

amed

by

a co

mpl

exity

of s

lope

s an

d co

nsid

erab

le c

olou

r.

The

scen

e is

trul

y ba

lanc

ed b

y th

e lo

ch re

flect

ion

of th

e la

ndsc

ape

abov

e.

The

view

feel

s ca

lm, p

erfe

ct, p

eace

ful,

gent

le

and

intim

ate

whi

lst a

lso

bein

g ex

citin

g an

d in

vitin

g.

Hum

an in

fluen

ce o

n th

e la

ndsc

ape,

in te

rms

of th

e lo

ch b

eing

a

rese

rvoi

r, an

d th

e hi

nts

of p

revi

ous

land

use

s w

ith w

alls

, fen

cing

an

d a

tum

bled

own

hut,

does

not

det

ract

from

the

attra

ctiv

enes

s of

the

view

, nor

doe

s it

imm

edia

tely

influ

ence

the

view

er’s

feel

ing

of n

atur

e.

The

mea

nder

ing

loch

and

rout

es o

ut o

f vie

w, t

rave

lling

beh

ind

the

laye

rs o

f slo

pes,

dra

ws

the

view

er fo

rwar

d w

ith s

ome

intri

gue

and

mys

tery

and

the

glas

s lik

e re

flect

ion

hide

s w

hat m

ay b

e be

neat

h th

e lo

ch s

urfa

ce.

The

varie

ty o

f col

our a

dds

muc

h of

the

inte

rest

and

the

sky

is

influ

entia

l bot

h as

a fe

atur

e to

whi

ch th

e sc

ene

allo

ws

the

eye

to

be d

raw

n on

its

jour

ney,

and

als

o in

its

role

of c

hang

ing

light

, w

hich

offe

rs d

ram

atic

col

our c

hang

es a

nd fu

rther

inte

rest

.

Col

ours

are

com

plem

enta

ry a

nd b

lend

per

fect

ly.

The

calm

ness

of t

he s

cene

is a

n im

porta

nt fe

atur

e, a

nd it

evo

kes

a fe

elin

g of

com

plet

e de

tach

men

t fro

m a

bus

y w

orld

. A

ser

ene

oasi

s.

Cap

tivat

ing

and

cont

empl

atin

g.

A s

peci

al p

lace

. S

ound

is im

porta

nt in

its

cont

ribut

ion

to th

e fe

elin

gs o

f ser

enity

, es

peci

ally

the

soun

d of

bird

song

and

runn

ing

wat

er.

Ther

e is

a fe

elin

g of

the

fulln

ess

of li

fe, w

ith w

ildlif

e be

ing

evid

ent

and

addi

ng m

ovem

ent.

Jay

s da

rt in

to th

e pl

anta

tions

to fe

ed,

and

a lo

ne fl

y fis

herm

an p

ulls

the

occa

sion

al fi

sh fr

om th

e w

ater

.

The

odd

wal

ker o

r car

trav

ellin

g to

uris

t dis

appe

ars

into

the

dist

ance

aro

und

a be

nd.

Cha

nges

in li

ght c

an ra

pidl

y al

ter t

he

rang

e of

col

ours

on

the

hills

. Y

et d

espi

te th

is m

ovem

ent t

ime

feel

s as

if it

is s

tand

ing

still

. Th

e es

senc

e of

the

scen

e at

Loc

h D

runk

ie is

its

pict

ure

perfe

ct

com

posi

tion

of a

mea

nder

ing

loch

fram

ed b

y a

patc

hwor

k of

sl

opes

, it’s

wel

com

ing

intri

gue,

its

colo

ur a

nd re

flect

ions

, ha

rmon

y an

d m

edita

tive

qual

ities

.

142

Page 151: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

The

Tros

sach

s N

SA –

Vie

wsc

ape:

Loc

h K

atrin

e O

bjec

tive

Ana

lysi

s Vi

sual

Exp

erie

nce

Pers

onal

Res

pons

es

The

Loch

is a

dom

inat

ing

feat

ure

of th

e sc

ene,

clo

sely

follo

wed

by

the

peak

s of

the

loch

’s w

este

rn b

ackd

rop.

Its

’ lar

ge e

xpan

se

and

cont

inua

tion

cons

ider

ably

out

of t

he N

SA

bou

ndar

y m

eans

th

at v

iew

s fro

m a

roun

d th

e sh

ore

only

take

in s

mal

l par

ts o

f the

lo

ch.

Vie

ws

from

the

sout

hern

end

of t

he lo

ch c

lose

to th

e pi

er in

clud

e a

num

ber o

f sm

all w

oode

d is

land

s, w

hich

obs

cure

a lo

ng

dist

ance

vie

w.

Vie

ws

take

n fro

m th

e ea

ster

n sh

ore

are

muc

h m

ore

pano

ram

ic, w

ith th

e w

este

rn s

hore

in th

e im

med

iate

di

stan

ce b

ut w

ith m

uch

long

er v

iew

s to

eac

h si

de, p

anni

ng u

p th

e le

ngth

of t

he w

ater

-bod

y, a

lthou

gh th

e en

ds o

f the

loch

are

st

ill n

ot v

isib

le.

The

view

ove

r to

the

wes

t is

mou

ntai

nous

, with

bar

e ro

ck,

brac

ken

and

heat

her.

Im

med

iate

hill

s ar

e ba

cked

by

hint

s of

a

grea

ter e

xpan

se o

f mou

ntai

ns in

the

far d

ista

nce,

and

Ben

V

enue

is v

isib

le.

A v

ery

smal

l am

ount

of p

lant

atio

n an

d br

oad-

leav

ed w

oodl

and

is a

ppar

ent o

n th

e lo

wer

slo

pes.

P

rom

onto

ries

of s

hort

rabb

it gr

azed

gra

ssla

nd o

ccas

iona

lly

proj

ect f

rom

the

shor

e, w

ith ro

cky

outc

rops

and

hea

ther

frin

ges.

Th

ese

are

easi

ly a

cces

sibl

e an

d m

ake

exce

llent

vie

wpo

ints

. Th

e ea

ster

n sh

ore

is h

eavi

ly w

oode

d, p

redo

min

antly

birc

h an

d oa

k, w

ith w

illow

s in

crea

sing

clo

se to

the

loch

edg

e.

Typi

cal

woo

dlan

d gr

ound

flor

a an

d co

nsid

erab

le b

ryop

hyte

car

pets

are

pr

esen

t. B

oth

falle

n de

adw

ood

and

live

trees

are

cov

ered

in

liche

n.

The

pier

are

a pr

ovid

es to

uris

t fac

ilitie

s.

Th lo

ch’s

exp

anse

giv

es is

a re

al p

rom

inen

ce in

the

scen

e, a

nd

its c

hopp

y m

ovin

g w

ater

s an

d la

ppin

g w

aves

gen

erat

e a

feel

ing

of b

eing

nex

t to

the

sea.

Th

e lo

ch s

urfa

ce g

ives

a s

trong

ho

rizon

tal l

ine

in th

e la

ndsc

ape.

Lo

ch K

atrin

e is

in c

ontra

st to

the

othe

r tw

o lo

chs

with

in th

e N

SA

; th

e sm

alle

r Loc

h A

chra

y an

d Lo

ch D

runk

ie, i

n th

at it

’s g

reat

er

size

allo

ws

for m

ore

mov

emen

t. T

his

disp

lace

s th

e fo

cus

from

gl

ass

like

refle

ctio

ns to

a g

reat

er in

fluen

ce o

f mov

emen

t, pa

nora

mic

exp

anse

and

con

trast

s be

twee

n m

ount

ain

and

wat

er,

rath

er th

an b

ringi

ng th

e tw

o to

geth

er in

refle

ctio

ns.

The

view

of t

he m

ount

aino

us a

rea

to th

e w

est i

nclu

des

the

purp

le, b

row

n, p

ink

and

reds

of t

he u

plan

d ve

geta

tion,

whi

ch

rapi

dly

chan

ge a

s th

ey a

re c

augh

t by

the

sun

or s

hade

d by

cl

oud.

Tr

ansi

tions

bet

wee

n th

e ve

geta

tion

are

subt

le a

nd

natu

ral i

n fo

rm.

The

se a

reas

app

ear u

nman

aged

, and

the

pock

ets

of p

lant

atio

n ar

e a

min

or fe

atur

e ag

ains

t the

loch

and

m

ount

ain.

In

con

trast

the

woo

ded

wes

tern

sho

re is

lush

and

sof

t, w

ith th

e ey

e be

ing

draw

n to

the

deta

il ra

ther

than

the

who

le e

xpan

se.

W

oodl

and

flow

ers

and

tiny

wat

erfa

lls a

re n

otic

ed a

nd

appr

ecia

ted.

Th

e vi

ew b

ack

to w

ithin

the

NS

A, t

owar

ds th

e so

uthe

rn p

oint

of

Loch

Kat

rine

is a

dis

tinct

con

trast

to th

at ta

ken

tow

ards

the

north

w

est,

whe

re th

e lo

ch u

nfol

ds b

ut a

nd e

nd p

oint

is n

ot re

ache

d be

fore

the

horiz

on.

The

sou

ther

n vi

ew is

dot

ted

with

woo

ded

isle

s an

d th

e ro

lling

slo

pes

are

heav

ily la

den

with

sha

des

of

woo

dlan

d gr

een.

Th

e pi

er is

a h

oney

pot l

ocat

ion,

pro

vidi

ng to

uris

t fac

ilitie

s an

d in

terp

reta

tion

mat

eria

l. T

his

mak

es o

ne a

war

e of

the

holid

ay

emph

asis

on

the

loca

tion,

and

alth

ough

this

det

ract

s sl

ight

ly fr

om

the

surr

ound

ing

natu

ral b

eaut

y it

is c

onfin

ed in

are

a an

d is

like

ly

to b

e w

elco

med

by

thos

e vi

sitin

g.

The

land

scap

e fe

els

mor

e dr

amat

ic th

an th

at e

xper

ienc

ed a

t the

sm

alle

r loc

hs, a

nd c

ontra

sts

are

mor

e pr

onou

nced

. T

here

are

th

e be

ginn

ings

of f

eelin

gs o

f exp

anse

and

wild

erne

ss, w

ith th

e ru

gged

pea

ks, l

arge

mov

ing

wat

er-b

ody

and

open

ness

of t

he

view

. R

ecol

lect

ions

of b

eing

by

the

coas

t are

trig

gere

d by

the

expa

nse

of w

ater

, mov

emen

t and

rock

y sh

ores

. S

ound

is a

n im

porta

nt fe

atur

e of

this

vie

wsh

ed, w

ith w

aves

hi

tting

sho

res

and

rock

s be

ing

a co

nsta

nt re

assu

ranc

e, o

r co

nver

sely

add

ing

to a

n aw

aren

ess

of e

xpos

ure.

Th

e w

ind

is

also

not

icea

ble,

som

etim

es g

ivin

g a

slig

ht u

nner

ving

feel

. Th

e st

rong

ang

les,

clo

ud ti

pped

pea

ks a

nd d

ram

atic

cha

nges

in

colo

ur a

s th

e cl

ouds

roll

away

is in

spiri

ng a

nd re

fresh

ing;

a s

mal

l ta

ste

of u

plan

d S

cotla

nd w

hils

t bei

ng v

iew

ed fr

om th

e w

arm

th

and

safe

ty o

f a m

ore

intim

ate

and

wel

com

ing

land

scap

e.

The

have

n of

the

shel

tere

d ba

ys, s

mal

l isl

ands

and

lush

and

en

chan

ting

woo

dlan

d is

eas

ily a

cces

sed

from

the

hone

y-po

t pie

r ar

ea.

The

trac

k qu

ickl

y ta

kes

you

into

a w

oodl

and

that

is

intim

ate

and

mag

ical

. T

he s

plas

hes

of c

olou

r fro

m d

elic

ate

woo

dlan

d flo

wer

s, te

xtur

e an

d in

trica

cies

of f

ern

and

mos

s fri

nged

stre

ams

and

wat

erfa

lls d

raw

s th

e vi

ewer

to a

n ap

prec

iatio

n of

the

smal

l sca

le d

etai

l. It

is th

e co

ntra

sts

seen

with

in th

e vi

ews

that

is a

n im

porta

nt

feat

ure

as w

ell a

s th

e la

ndsc

ape

itsel

f. T

he c

ontra

st b

etw

een

the

dram

atic

pea

ks a

nd in

timat

e w

oodl

ands

, the

stro

ng v

isua

l di

vide

bet

wee

n th

e pe

aks

and

the

loch

in te

rms

of c

olou

r, sh

ape

and

form

, and

the

cont

rast

bet

wee

n th

e m

ore

imm

edia

te v

iew

in

to th

e N

SA

tow

ards

the

brig

ht g

reen

woo

ded

slop

es a

nd d

otte

d is

les

of th

e so

uthe

rn s

hore

and

the

dist

ance

and

the

expa

nse

of

the

view

out

of t

he N

SA

tow

ards

the

north

wes

t as

the

loch

op

ens

out,

are

key

qual

ities

of t

he L

och

Kat

rine

area

.

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8

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The Trossachs NSA

Notes on historical / cultural associations and other background information • ‘The Trossachs’ comes from the Gaelic ‘bristled country’, referring to its vegetation. • The original boundary of the area known as The Trossachs extended from Ben A’an in the

north, Ben Venue in the south, Loch Katrine to the west and Loch Achray to the east. The NSA boundary extends this area further southeast to include much of Queen Elizabeth Forest Park and the ridge of the Menteith Hills. Today the area widely known as The Trossachs extends still further beyond the NSA boundary.

• Historical and cultural interest adds to the natural beauty, rural scenery and wildlife,

animating and offering a romantic introduction to The Trossachs for many of today’s visitors. • Countless writers, poets and artists have been drawn to its loch shores, including William

and Dorothy Wordsworth, Samuel Coleridge, James Hogg and John Ruskin. But it was the publishing of Sir Walter Scott’s romantic poem ‘Lady of the Lake’ in 1810 and ‘Rob Roy’ in 1817 that the scenic charms of the area came to popularity and established The Trossachs as a major tourist attraction.

• In his poem ‘Lady of the Lake’, which refers to Loch Katrine, Scott wrote:

So wondrous wild, the whole might seem The scenery of a fairy dream. And specifically about Loch Katrine he wrote: Where, gleaming with the setting sun, One burnished sheet of living gold, Loch Katrine lay beneath him roll’d In all her length far winding lay, With promontory, creek and bay, And islands that, empurpled bright, Floated amid a livelier light, And mountains, that like giants stand, To sentinel enchanted land.

• In his novel ‘Rob Roy’, Scott wrote of the tales of Rob Roy MacGregor and the ‘children of the mist’, referring to his followers the Clan MacGregor who lived amidst the wild hills. Rob Roy was born in Glen Gyle at the western end of Loch Katrine and is buried near by. The famous Duke’s Pass is named after Rob Roy’s arch rival, the Duke of Montrose.

• Bordering the NSA to the north, Glen Finglas was possibly one of the most popular of the

royal hunting forests, with many Kings and Scottish Earls hunting there between the early 1300’s to the 1700’s. Many veteran trees still remain.

• Queen Victoria visited the area on many occasions, and loved it so much she had a holiday

house built overlooking Loch Katrine. She is known to have stayed in what is now the Tigh Mor Trossachs hotel, a private, high quality hotel for members of the Holiday Property Bond, with its distinctive turrets and splendid location overlooking Loch Achray.

• The very routes once followed by Rob Roy’s cattle drovers and the horse-drawn carriages

of 19th Century tourists, have become the main arteries, which now carry modern traffic over Duke’s Pass. The Trossachs Trail is a signposted car tour that takes drivers north from

145

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Aberfoyle and over the Dukes Pass to take in the spectacular views of an area commonly regarded as ‘the highlands in miniature’.

• Since Sir Walter Scott’s time, Loch Katrine has changed as a result of it being dammed in

1859 at its eastern end to provide a clean water supply to Glasgow. The loch’s popularity now owes much to the presence of the last steam driven passenger vessel operating in the UK, fittingly named the Steam Ship SS Sir Walter Scot, that sails up and down Loch Katrine.

146

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APPENDIX 5

FIELDWORK OUTPUTS UPPER TWEEDDALE NATIONAL SCENIC AREA

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Upp

er T

wee

ddal

e N

SA –

1. B

lack

Mel

don

O

bjec

tive

Visu

alEm

otio

nal

The

dom

inan

t lan

dfor

m is

the

rolli

ng m

ount

ains

with

in

terlo

ckin

g rid

ges

with

occ

asio

nal p

eaks

cre

atin

g lo

ng

swee

ping

sky

lines

. Bel

ow is

the

shal

low

v-s

hape

d,

woo

ded

valle

y of

the

Riv

er T

wee

d w

ith s

wee

ping

, eve

n sl

opes

and

som

e oc

casi

onal

con

cave

slo

pes.

The

rive

r its

elf h

owev

er is

gen

eral

ly in

cons

picu

ous.

La

nd u

se c

ompr

ises

gra

ss a

nd h

eath

er m

oorla

nd w

ith

frequ

ent p

lant

atio

ns a

nd s

cree

on

the

mou

ntai

nsid

es.

Ther

e is

a re

gula

r geo

met

ric fi

eld

patte

rn w

ith o

ccas

iona

l st

eadi

ngs

and

cotta

ges

inva

riabl

y w

ith tr

ee c

lum

ps.

The

mai

n fe

atur

es o

f the

vie

w a

re th

e st

rong

line

ar

patte

rn o

f she

lterb

elts

and

sto

ne d

ykes

. Mel

don

Bur

n is

na

rrow

and

sin

uous

in a

ste

ep s

ided

moo

rland

val

ley.

S

wee

ping

, rol

ling

hills

and

sky

line,

whi

ch c

ontin

ues

into

th

e di

stan

ce.

Ther

e is

a s

trong

con

trast

with

the

woo

ded

valle

ys a

nd

geom

etric

pat

tern

s of

the

agric

ultu

ral f

ield

s an

d sh

elte

rbel

ts w

ith th

e op

en, w

ild m

oorla

nd h

ills.

Th

e la

ndsc

ape

scal

e is

larg

e on

the

hills

with

exp

ansi

ve

360o v

iew

s an

d is

ope

n an

d ex

pose

d. H

owev

er th

e sc

ale

with

in th

e va

lley

is s

mal

l and

mor

e in

timat

e. T

here

is

grea

t div

ersi

ty w

ithin

the

land

scap

e w

ith th

e co

mpl

ex

land

scap

e in

the

valle

y an

d th

e si

mpl

e ro

lling

ope

nnes

s of

the

surro

undi

ng h

ills.

The

colo

ur o

f the

vie

w is

pre

dom

inat

ely

gree

n w

ith th

e lig

ht g

reen

pat

chw

ork

of th

e fie

lds

stitc

hed

with

the

dark

gr

een

of s

helte

rbel

ts in

the

valle

y an

d lin

king

to th

e br

owns

and

gre

ens

of th

e m

oorla

nd.

The

stro

nges

t vis

ual l

ines

are

the

geom

etric

fiel

d pa

ttern

s fo

rmed

by

the

ston

e dy

kes

and

the

line

of th

e M

eldo

n B

urn.

Th

e ge

nera

l im

pres

sion

is s

till a

nd q

uiet

thou

gh th

ere

the

hillt

ops

are

expo

sed

and

win

dy. T

here

is th

e no

ise

of

shee

p an

d ot

her a

nim

als.

Alth

ough

the

mai

n ro

ad

trave

rses

the

view

it is

not

that

evi

dent

exc

ept f

or

occa

sion

al tr

affic

noi

se.

The

expe

rienc

e fro

m th

e vi

ewpo

int i

s ex

hila

ratin

g an

d a

plac

e to

enj

oy s

pect

acul

ar p

anor

amic

vie

ws

whi

ch

incl

ude

two

third

s of

the

NS

A. I

t pro

vide

s a

real

“top

of

the

wor

ld” f

eelin

g, lo

okin

g do

wn

on a

sm

alle

r lan

dsca

pe.

Upp

er T

wee

ddal

e ap

pear

s as

a m

odel

farm

land

scap

e –

a tra

nqui

l, se

ttled

and

pea

cefu

l val

ley.

It a

ppea

rs

wel

com

ing,

invi

ting,

she

ltere

d an

d ca

lm. T

he h

illtop

s be

ckon

to v

iew

poin

ts c

ontra

stin

g w

ith th

e in

timac

y of

the

valle

y. T

he e

ncirc

ling

non-

thre

aten

ing

hills

are

invi

ting

and

prot

ectiv

e of

the

valle

y. T

rees

mak

e th

e la

ndsc

ape

mor

e in

vitin

g an

d gi

ve it

add

ition

al in

tere

st a

nd v

arie

ty.

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Upp

er T

wee

ddal

e N

SA –

2. M

anor

Wat

er fr

om C

adem

uir P

rom

onto

ry

O

bjec

tive

Visu

alEm

otio

nal

The

land

form

is o

f a U

-sha

ped,

flat

-bot

tom

ed ri

ver v

alle

y w

ith s

teep

er s

lope

s to

the

east

and

gen

tler,

mor

e ev

en

slop

es to

the

wes

t. Th

e va

lley

is s

urro

unde

d by

larg

e,

smoo

th, r

ound

ed h

ills

crea

ting

flow

ing

skyl

ines

. Th

e va

lley

is p

redo

min

atel

y pa

stor

al m

ainl

y m

ixed

w

oodl

ands

and

con

ifer p

lant

atio

ns w

ith b

road

leav

ed

clum

ps. T

he la

nd c

over

of t

he h

ills is

larg

ely

heat

her a

nd

gras

s m

oorla

nd w

ith s

ome

exte

nsiv

e co

nife

r pla

ntat

ions

. Th

ere

is lo

cally

bar

e ro

ck a

nd s

cree

on

the

hills

ides

. Th

ere

is in

tere

stin

g riv

er g

eom

orph

olog

y w

ith in

cise

d m

eand

ers

cutti

ng th

roug

h gl

acia

l dep

osits

how

ever

the

river

doe

s no

t dom

inat

e th

e sc

ene.

Th

ere

are

stro

ng g

eom

etric

fiel

d pa

ttern

s w

ith la

rge

regu

lar s

hape

d fie

lds

boun

ded

by s

traig

ht s

tone

dyk

es.

Woo

dlan

d pl

antin

g is

ass

ocia

ted

with

set

tlem

ents

and

fa

rmst

eads

. Th

ere

is a

regu

lar s

tring

of c

otta

ges

and

larg

e ho

uses

al

ong

the

road

line

with

mor

e sc

atte

red

stea

ding

s cl

oser

to

the

river

. The

bui

ldin

gs a

re g

ener

ally

whi

tew

ashe

d,

slat

e-ro

ofed

hou

ses.

S

peci

fic fe

atur

es in

clud

e st

raig

ht s

tone

dyk

es a

nd th

e si

nuou

s na

rrow

rive

r. Th

ere

is a

sec

tion

of b

raid

ed

stre

am w

ith th

e ad

jace

nt fi

elds

rais

ed o

n a

river

terra

ce.

The

mai

n vi

sual

rela

tions

hip

is th

e co

ntra

st o

f the

flat

-bo

ttom

ed v

alle

y w

ith th

e su

rroun

ding

ope

n hi

lls. T

he

plan

tatio

ns s

pilli

ng o

ver t

he h

ills

link

the

valle

y w

ith th

e up

land

via

tree

clu

mps

and

sm

all w

oodl

ands

. The

val

ley

has

an o

rgan

ised

, reg

ular

, pla

nned

land

scap

e co

ntra

stin

g w

ith th

e se

mi-n

atur

al o

pen

moo

rland

. The

gre

en v

alle

y co

ntra

sts

with

the

brow

n an

d he

athe

r of t

he h

ills.

The

scal

e of

the

valle

y is

sm

all a

nd e

nclo

sed

with

in

timat

e po

cket

s of

she

ltere

d w

oodl

and

and

river

. The

su

rroun

ding

hill

s by

con

trast

are

larg

e sc

ale,

ope

n an

d ex

pose

d.

The

valle

y is

div

erse

thou

gh n

ot s

o m

uch

beca

use

of

diffe

rent

feat

ures

but

by

sim

ilar f

eatu

res

in a

var

ied

layo

ut, w

hile

the

hills

are

sim

ple

open

moo

rland

. Th

e va

lley

colo

urs

com

pris

e a

spec

trum

of g

reen

s fro

m

the

light

gre

en o

f the

fiel

ds to

the

dark

gre

en o

f the

co

nife

r pla

ntat

ions

. Thi

s co

ntra

sts

with

the

brow

ns a

nd

grey

s of

the

hills

with

pat

ches

of g

olde

n-br

own

whe

re

heat

her i

s ab

sent

. Th

e fo

rm a

nd li

ne o

f the

vie

w is

dom

inat

ed b

y th

e ge

omet

ric v

alle

y cr

eate

d by

the

stra

ight

wal

ls. T

he ro

ad

form

s a

stro

ng v

ertic

al li

ne e

nhan

ced

by th

e w

alls

, co

ttage

s an

d w

oodl

ands

. The

re a

re a

lso

stro

ng

boun

darie

s al

ong

the

plan

tatio

ns w

ith d

istin

ct s

traig

ht

edge

s, w

here

as o

ther

woo

dlan

d cl

umps

are

irre

gula

r and

“e

dgel

ess”

and

mer

ge a

nd s

catte

r int

o th

e hi

llsid

es.

The

impr

essi

on is

that

the

valle

y is

inha

bite

d an

d ac

tive

thou

gh n

ot o

verly

bus

y. T

here

is fa

rmin

g ac

tivity

with

tra

ctor

s, fa

rm a

nim

als

and

a co

cker

el. I

t is

calm

and

pe

acef

ul b

ut n

ot tr

anqu

il.

The

valle

y fe

els

safe

cal

m, p

eace

ful a

nd w

elco

min

g. It

is

an id

yllic

pas

tora

l sce

ne w

hich

is re

laxi

ng to

the

eye.

It

is a

n en

clos

ed la

ndsc

ape

with

man

aged

, wel

l-ten

ded

farm

land

and

mor

e in

timat

e w

oodl

and

area

s. T

his

enge

nder

s a

feel

ing

of s

afet

y an

d se

curit

y.

The

hills

alth

ough

bar

e an

d ro

lling

are

non

-thre

aten

ing

and

appe

ar a

s th

e gu

ardi

ans

of th

e va

lley

prov

idin

g pr

otec

tion

and

encl

osur

e.

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Upp

er T

wee

ddal

e N

SA –

3. S

tobs

Law

, Hun

dles

Hop

e M

assi

f

Obj

ectiv

e

Vi

sual

Emot

iona

lM

assi

ve, r

ound

ed s

moo

th h

ills w

ith lo

ng u

ndul

atin

g rid

ges

plun

ging

into

ste

ep g

lens

. The

hills

incl

ude

the

roun

ded

hum

ps o

f Sto

bs L

aw a

nd H

undl

es H

ope.

Th

e la

nd c

over

is m

ainl

y op

en h

eath

er a

nd g

rass

m

oorla

nd w

ith o

ccas

iona

l pla

ntat

ions

on

the

low

er s

lope

s of

the

valle

y.

The

land

use

is o

pen

moo

rland

with

inte

rlock

ing

ridge

s.

Ther

e is

evi

denc

e of

mui

rbur

n in

the

squa

re s

hape

of t

he

heat

her p

atch

es. T

here

is n

o ob

viou

s re

crea

tiona

l use

or

farm

ing

activ

ity.

Th

e ar

ea is

larg

ely

unin

habi

ted

with

no

settl

emen

t pa

ttern

s.

Ther

e ar

e no

spe

cific

feat

ures

but

a s

impl

e sc

ene

of o

pen

moo

rland

and

hills

with

occ

asio

nal b

urns

.

Its v

isua

l app

eara

nce

is o

f a s

moo

th re

gula

r hom

ogen

ous

land

scap

e.

The

scal

e is

ver

y la

rge

with

bul

ky, m

assi

ve h

ills

and

big

skie

s. In

the

NS

A d

escr

iptio

n th

ese

hills

are

sai

d to

be

“of

grea

t sta

ture

”. Th

e la

ndsc

ape

is o

pen

and

expo

sed

with

th

e gl

ens

bein

g m

ore

shel

tere

d an

d se

clud

ed.

This

is a

sim

ple

land

scap

e w

ith li

ttle

dive

rsity

. Th

e co

lour

and

text

ure

is s

easo

nally

var

iabl

e an

d su

bjec

t to

hea

ther

man

agem

ent r

egim

es. A

t pre

sent

it is

co

mpo

sed

of li

ght g

reen

bra

cken

with

the

gold

of t

he

gras

s an

d br

own

heat

her w

ith p

urpl

e tin

ges.

The

text

ure

is g

ener

ally

sm

ooth

. Th

e sl

opes

are

rollin

g an

d dy

nam

ic w

ith n

o ob

viou

s pa

ttern

s or

line

s.

This

vie

w is

wild

er a

nd le

ss in

habi

ted

than

oth

er a

reas

of

the

NS

A a

lthou

gh a

s it

is o

nly

a fe

w m

iles

from

Pee

bles

it

coul

d no

t be

term

ed re

mot

e.

The

vie

w w

as a

ttrac

tive

and

colo

urfu

l at t

he ti

me

of

view

ing

how

ever

in b

ad w

eath

er it

wou

ld a

ppea

r to

be a

m

ore

broo

ding

and

cha

lleng

ing

land

scap

e. It

has

not

the

sam

e in

vitin

g, w

elco

min

g in

timat

e hi

lls o

f the

rest

of N

SA

, w

hich

invi

te e

xplo

ratio

n bu

t is

mor

e fo

rbid

ding

exc

ept f

or

the

dete

rmin

ed w

alke

r who

wou

ld c

hoos

e th

e m

assi

f as

the

grea

ter c

halle

nge

of th

e ar

ea.

The

hillt

ops

are

exhi

lara

ting

dram

atic

with

bol

d to

pogr

aphy

.

150

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Upp

er T

wee

ddal

e N

SA –

4. M

anor

Sw

are

O

bjec

tive

Visu

alEm

otio

nal

The

land

form

con

sist

s of

a w

ide,

flat

-bot

tom

ed ri

ver

valle

y w

ith g

entle

eve

n sl

opes

whi

ch g

et s

teep

er to

the

east

. Int

erlo

ckin

g hi

lls a

nd ri

dges

with

rock

y ou

tcro

p an

d a

quar

ry to

the

north

form

the

skyl

ine.

Th

e la

nd c

over

is p

redo

min

atel

y pa

stor

al w

ith e

xten

sive

w

oodl

and

com

pris

ing

coni

fero

us, m

ixed

and

bro

adle

aved

pl

anta

tions

and

ripa

rian

trees

. The

sin

uous

line

of t

he

river

is e

dged

by

ripar

ian

scru

b, g

orse

, ald

er a

nd w

illow

. Th

e va

lley

is d

omin

ated

by

agric

ultu

ral a

nd fo

rest

ry la

nd

use

with

qua

rryi

ng to

one

sid

e. T

here

is a

lso

evid

ence

of

coun

trysi

de re

crea

tion

with

pic

nic

site

s w

alki

ng ro

utes

an

d fis

hing

. Th

e se

ttlem

ent p

atte

rn c

onsi

sts

of in

cons

picu

ous

scat

tere

d fa

rmst

eads

with

occ

asio

nal h

ouse

s al

l aw

ay

from

the

river

. Th

e st

one,

four

-arc

hed

brid

ge tr

aver

sing

the

Riv

er T

wee

d is

a fo

cal p

oint

of t

he v

iew

. The

sto

ne q

uarr

y is

als

o st

rong

feat

ure.

The

whi

te-h

arle

d st

eadi

ngs

surro

unde

d by

w

oodl

and

are

also

par

ticul

arly

cha

ract

eris

tic.

The

irreg

ular

pat

tern

of t

he w

oodl

and

linke

d by

line

s of

tre

es a

nd ri

ver i

s a

parti

cula

rly s

trong

rela

tions

hip

in th

e sc

ene.

The

bac

kdro

p of

woo

ded

hills

with

ope

n m

oorla

nd

in th

e di

stan

ce is

als

o a

stro

ng th

eme.

The

suc

cess

ion

of

the

com

plex

woo

ded

fore

grou

nd a

nd th

e w

oode

d hi

lls in

th

e m

iddl

e gr

ound

lead

ing

the

bare

hills

in th

e ba

ckgr

ound

is m

ore

appa

rent

and

exa

gger

ated

her

e th

an

in o

ther

par

ts o

f Upp

er T

wee

ddal

e.

In th

e va

lley

the

scal

e is

med

ium

with

big

fiel

ds w

hich

are

en

clos

ed a

nd s

helte

red.

The

sur

roun

ding

hills

are

of a

la

rge

scal

e.

The

dive

rsity

with

in th

e va

lley

is c

ompl

ex w

ith th

e pa

ttern

s of

the

woo

dlan

d an

d fie

lds

in c

ontra

st w

ith th

e si

mpl

e op

enne

ss o

f the

rollin

g hi

lls in

the

back

grou

nd.

The

colo

urs

of th

e va

lley

are

pred

omin

atel

y sh

ades

of

gree

n –

rang

ing

from

ligh

t gre

en in

the

field

s to

the

dark

gr

een

of th

e w

oodl

ands

. The

ripa

rian

vege

tatio

n is

als

o da

rker

gre

en in

col

our.

Som

e of

the

unim

prov

ed

mea

dow

s on

the

slop

es a

re p

arch

ed a

t thi

s tim

e of

yea

r an

d ar

e go

lden

bro

wn

in c

olou

r. Th

e si

lver

y, s

hiny

re

flect

ion

of th

e w

ater

add

s to

the

colo

urs

of th

e sc

ene

and

wat

er m

ovem

ent i

s ev

iden

t und

er th

e br

idge

. Th

e si

nuou

s lin

e of

rive

r is

the

dom

inan

t for

m a

nd li

ne o

f th

e sc

ene.

The

re a

re a

lso

the

irreg

ular

sha

pes

and

lines

of

the

woo

ds a

nd th

e st

raig

ht h

oriz

onta

l lin

es o

f the

sto

ne

dyke

s.

Gen

eral

ly th

e ar

ea is

qui

et, t

ranq

uil a

nd c

alm

with

som

e ag

ricul

tura

l act

ivity

and

farm

ani

mal

s w

ith th

e w

oodl

and

dead

enin

g th

e so

und

of a

ctiv

ity. H

owev

er th

e m

ain

road

al

ong

the

north

ern

edge

(A72

) is

busy

and

noi

sy.

The

impr

essi

on o

f the

val

ley

is s

afe,

she

ltere

d, in

timat

e an

d en

clos

ed. I

t is

a m

an-c

reat

ed, w

ell-m

anag

ed a

nd

harm

onio

us la

ndsc

ape.

The

woo

dlan

d is

inte

grat

ed w

ith

the

land

form

. The

sur

roun

ding

hig

h hi

lls a

re fu

rther

aw

ay

than

from

oth

er v

iew

poin

ts a

nd s

o do

not

giv

e su

ch a

se

nse

of e

nclo

sure

as

from

oth

er s

ites.

It is

the

gent

le

hills

and

woo

dlan

ds th

at d

omin

ate

the

scen

e. It

is a

n in

tere

stin

g an

d bu

sy la

ndsc

ape,

whi

ch k

eeps

the

eye

mov

ing.

Th

e R

iver

Tw

eed

is p

artic

ular

ly im

porta

nt h

ere

givi

ng a

“s

ense

of p

lace

” and

iden

tity.

The

cen

tral f

ocal

poi

nt o

f th

e st

one

brid

ge a

nd w

indi

ng ri

ver i

s th

e ep

itom

e of

U

pper

Tw

eedd

ale.

151

Page 160: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Upp

er T

wee

ddal

e N

SA –

5. B

roug

hton

vill

age,

Big

gar W

ater

and

Hol

ms

Wat

er fr

om D

reva

Cra

ig

O

bjec

tive

Vi

sual

Emot

iona

lTh

is a

rea

cons

ists

of a

flat

-bot

tom

ed s

hallo

w v

-sha

ped

valle

y w

ith e

ven

gent

le s

lope

s. H

igh

roun

ded

hills

te

rmin

ate

the

view

in th

e ba

ckgr

ound

at e

ach

end

north

an

d so

uth.

To

the

east

and

wes

t the

hills

are

mor

e ge

ntle

and

eve

n w

ith lo

wer

slo

pes.

Th

e pa

stor

al ri

ver v

alle

y of

the

Big

gar W

ater

has

oc

casi

onal

tree

gro

ups,

she

lterb

elts

and

sm

all w

oods

on

the

valle

y flo

or w

ith la

rge

regu

lar b

lock

s of

con

ifer

plan

tatio

ns fr

om h

alf w

ay u

p th

e sl

opes

. The

re is

roug

h gr

ass

in th

e m

oorla

nd a

nd h

eath

er o

n th

e hi

gher

hills

. Th

e la

nd u

se is

pas

tora

l far

min

g an

d fo

rest

ry.

Bro

ught

on v

illag

e ha

s a

linea

r pat

tern

that

follo

ws

the

road

and

is s

urro

unde

d by

tree

s m

akin

g it

rela

tivel

y in

cons

picu

ous

in th

e la

ndsc

ape.

The

villa

ge is

situ

ated

at

the

brid

ging

poi

nt o

f the

rive

r at t

he c

onflu

ence

of t

he

Bro

ught

on B

urn

and

Big

gar W

ater

. Th

ere

are

stro

ng p

atte

rns

of w

oodl

and

and

regu

lar

geom

etric

fiel

d pa

ttern

s. T

here

is a

n oc

casi

onal

larg

e ho

use

in th

e w

oode

d se

tting

. The

old

railw

ay li

ne is

a

notic

eabl

e lin

ear f

eatu

re a

s ar

e th

e dr

ysto

ne w

alls

. The

lin

e of

hou

ses

and

traffi

c no

ise

draw

s at

tent

ion

to th

e ro

ad b

ut it

is n

ot e

asily

vis

ible

. The

red

sand

ston

e Ki

rk a

t B

roug

hton

is a

lso

a no

tabl

e fe

atur

e in

the

land

scap

e.

Ther

e is

a s

trong

rela

tions

hip

betw

een

the

broa

dlea

ved

trees

on

the

valle

y flo

or a

nd th

e pl

anta

tions

on

the

uppe

r sl

opes

(upp

er tw

o th

irds)

hav

e th

e ef

fect

of e

mph

asis

ing

the

slop

e. T

he w

oode

d sl

ope

of R

acha

n H

ill m

akes

it

mor

e pr

omin

ent a

nd e

mph

asis

es it

s pr

esen

ce in

the

land

form

. The

val

ley

is c

lose

d of

f on

both

end

s by

ste

ep

side

d ro

unde

d hi

lls, w

hich

look

big

ger i

n co

ntra

st to

the

low

land

val

ley

thou

gh th

ey a

re n

ot a

ctua

lly a

s bi

g as

ot

hers

in th

e ar

ea, t

his

adds

to th

e fe

elin

g of

enc

losu

re.

The

trans

ition

to in

tens

ive

farm

ing

by B

igga

r Wat

er

cont

rast

s w

ith th

e se

mi-n

atur

al u

nim

prov

ed la

nd w

hich

is

rece

ding

to w

et s

crub

land

(rus

h) c

lose

to D

reva

M

uirb

urn.

Th

e va

lley

is o

f med

ium

sca

le th

ough

som

e of

the

field

s ar

e qu

ite la

rge.

The

are

a is

rela

tivel

y en

clos

ed a

nd

shel

tere

d w

ith th

e op

en e

xpos

ed h

ills

at e

ither

end

. Th

is is

a d

iver

se re

lativ

ely

busy

land

scap

e w

ith s

ome

traffi

c an

d m

ovem

ent a

nd a

gric

ultu

ral a

ctiv

ity.

Ther

e ar

e a

wid

e va

riety

of g

reen

s fro

m d

ark

gree

n to

ye

llow

. The

hig

h hi

lls a

re b

row

n an

d gr

ey w

ith n

otic

eabl

e cl

oud

shad

ow.

Th

e ge

omet

ric p

atte

rn o

f fie

lds,

the

burn

s, fe

nces

and

ra

ilway

pro

vide

s th

e fo

rm a

nd li

ne to

the

scen

e.

The

road

, whi

ch c

uts

thou

gh th

e m

iddl

e of

the

view

, al

thou

gh n

ot d

omin

ant,

crea

tes

nois

e an

d m

ovem

ent t

o th

e ar

ea. H

owev

er it

is m

ore

peac

eful

and

tran

quil

tow

ards

Hol

ms

wat

er. I

n ge

nera

l the

sce

ne is

cal

m a

nd

past

oral

.

The

feel

ing

is p

eace

ful,

safe

and

pas

tora

l tho

ugh

not a

s en

clos

ed a

s in

oth

er a

reas

. It i

s a

plea

sing

rura

l lan

dsca

pe

but t

he w

ith th

e m

ore

inte

nsiv

e fa

rmin

g it

is le

ss a

ttrac

tive

and

has

not g

ot th

e in

timac

y of

the

mai

n da

le. I

t is

inte

rest

ing

and

varie

d th

ough

not

rem

arka

ble.

Th

e vi

ewpo

int i

tsel

f is

an o

ld fo

rt an

d se

ttlem

ent t

hat g

ives

a

feel

ing

of a

ntiq

uity

to th

e sc

ene.

The

val

ley

give

s th

e im

pres

sion

that

, alth

ough

rura

l and

rela

tivel

y re

mot

e, it

has

be

en o

ccup

ied

for a

long

tim

e, w

hich

giv

es it

add

ed

inte

rest

. Th

e Jo

hn B

ucha

n m

useu

m is

situ

ated

in B

roug

hton

vill

age,

a

nove

list w

ho u

sed

the

Upp

er T

wee

d as

the

setti

ng s

o so

me

of h

is n

ovel

s.

152

Page 161: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Upp

er T

wee

ddal

e N

SA –

6. U

pper

Tw

eedd

ale

from

Dre

va C

raig

Obj

ectiv

e

Vi

sual

Emot

iona

lTh

e up

per T

wee

d R

iver

join

s B

igga

r Wat

er in

this

wid

e fla

t val

ley

botto

m. O

nce

the

two

river

s ha

ve jo

ined

it

follo

ws

a ro

ute

alon

g th

e ea

ster

n hi

ll fo

ot. T

he

surro

undi

ng h

ills

have

gen

eral

ly e

ven

slop

es o

f var

iabl

e st

eepn

ess

crea

ting

long

flow

ing

even

sky

lines

of r

idge

s,

whi

ch b

ecom

e in

terlo

ckin

g hi

lls a

t the

sou

ther

n en

d. T

he

valle

y is

term

inat

ed a

t the

sou

ther

n en

d of

the

tow

erin

g pe

ak o

f Wor

m H

ill. T

he ri

dge

incl

udes

the

sum

mits

of

Dru

mel

zier

Law

and

Log

an H

ead.

The

low

er s

lope

s ha

ve

glac

ial m

orai

ne d

epos

its. T

he p

rom

onto

ry o

f Dre

va C

raig

an

d R

acha

n H

ill d

ivid

e th

e Tw

eed

from

Hol

ms

Wat

er.

The

valle

y bo

ttom

is p

redo

min

atel

y m

ixed

farm

ing

(impr

oved

pas

ture

and

ara

ble)

with

a g

eom

etric

pat

tern

of

larg

e fie

lds

and

hedg

erow

s w

ith o

ccas

iona

l she

lterb

elts

. O

n th

e hi

lls a

re e

xten

sive

con

ifer a

nd m

ixed

pla

ntat

ions

cu

lmin

atin

g in

Rac

han

Hill

at t

he s

outh

ern

end.

At t

he

north

ern

end

ther

e ar

e m

ixed

pla

ntat

ions

flow

ing

dow

n th

e sl

opes

som

e of

whi

ch in

clud

e tre

es p

lant

ed in

the

Daw

yck

Arb

oret

um. T

here

are

mor

e ge

omet

ric

plan

tatio

ns s

hape

s fu

rther

up

the

slop

e, w

hich

app

ear

inco

ngru

ous

in th

e la

ndsc

ape.

A q

uarr

y is

vis

ible

at t

he

north

ern

end.

Dre

va C

raig

is a

n ex

tens

ive

area

of

brac

ken

and

roug

h gr

assl

and.

The

ope

n up

per s

lope

s ar

e gr

assl

and

and

heat

her m

oorla

nd. A

ssoc

iate

d w

ith th

e riv

er a

re a

reas

of s

emi-n

atur

al s

crub

and

woo

dlan

d.

Th

e se

ttlem

ents

con

sist

of l

arge

exp

ande

d st

eadi

ngs

gene

rally

of g

rey

ston

e an

d sl

ate

build

ings

am

idst

m

oder

n la

rge-

scal

e pr

omin

ent a

gric

ultu

ral s

heds

. The

oc

casi

onal

cot

tage

s an

d ho

uses

incl

ude

the

smal

l ham

let

of D

rum

elzi

er.

Spe

cific

feat

ures

incl

ude

the

woo

dlan

d bl

ocks

, the

rive

r an

d th

e fa

rmst

eads

. The

re a

re a

lso

the

rem

ains

of T

inni

s C

astle

opp

osite

Dre

va C

raig

. Bot

h of

thes

e re

mai

ns a

re

situ

ated

on

rock

pro

mon

torie

s an

d to

geth

er fo

rm a

na

tura

l gat

eway

to th

is p

art o

f the

Tw

eedd

ale.

The

cont

rast

with

the

inte

nsiv

ely

man

aged

val

ley

botto

m

with

the

wild

hill

s is

a s

trong

vis

ual r

elat

ions

hip.

Tow

ards

th

e no

rther

n en

d of

the

valle

y th

e tre

es fi

t in

mor

e na

tura

lly w

ith th

e la

ndfo

rm w

hils

t in

the

mid

dle

of th

e va

lley

ther

e ar

e pl

anta

tion

bloc

ks o

f rig

id s

hape

. The

re is

al

so a

con

trast

bet

wee

n th

e in

timat

e en

clos

ure

of th

e w

oodl

and

with

the

open

fiel

ds a

nd h

illsid

es.

The

scal

e in

the

valle

y is

med

ium

whi

le th

e su

rroun

ding

hi

ll ra

nge

is o

f a la

rge

scal

e. T

he s

cene

is d

iver

se w

ith

loca

lly c

ompl

ex a

reas

esp

ecia

lly a

roun

d R

acha

n H

ill.

Ther

e ar

e a

varie

ty o

f gre

ens

in th

e va

lley

with

the

blue

/gre

y of

the

river

. The

hill

s ar

e go

lden

bro

wn

with

pa

tche

s of

gre

y. T

he c

loud

sha

dow

is v

ery

notic

eabl

e gi

ving

cha

ngin

g m

ovem

ent t

o th

e sc

ene.

Sea

sona

l va

riatio

n of

the

colo

urs

wou

ld re

sult

from

the

heat

her a

nd

broa

dlea

ved

trees

. Th

e riv

er a

nd d

isus

ed ra

ilway

follo

w th

e hi

ll fo

ot o

n th

e w

est s

ide

of th

e va

lley

whi

le th

e ro

ad fo

llow

s th

e hi

ll fo

ot

on th

e w

est s

ide.

The

se li

near

feat

ures

from

an

edge

to

the

valle

y bo

ttom

with

the

mai

n ag

ricul

tura

l fie

lds

betw

een.

B

esid

es a

gric

ultu

ral a

ctiv

ity th

e sc

ene

is o

f a c

alm

, pe

acef

ul a

nd p

asto

ral v

alle

y. T

here

are

few

er a

nim

als

in

this

sec

tion

with

a g

reat

er e

mph

asis

on

arab

le.

The

scen

e is

a s

ettle

d, m

anag

ed a

nd in

habi

ted

land

scap

e. T

he s

helte

red

valle

y la

cks

the

past

oral

tra

nqui

llity

of o

ther

par

ts o

f the

NS

A b

ecau

se o

f ag

ricul

tura

l int

ensi

ficat

ion.

It

is a

dyn

amic

mix

ture

of w

ild h

ill to

p m

assi

f, st

eep

rock

y sl

opes

, woo

ded

hills

and

agr

icul

tura

l val

ley.

The

larg

e ar

ea o

f woo

dlan

d to

the

sout

h of

the

valle

y is

par

ticul

arly

at

tract

ive

and

grea

tly e

nhan

ces

the

enjo

ymen

t of t

he

scen

e.

The

two

hill

fort

rem

ains

plu

s ot

her e

vide

nce

of a

ncie

nt

settl

emen

t suc

h as

sta

ndin

g st

ones

and

tow

ers

give

the

feel

ing

of h

isto

ry to

the

scen

e an

d im

bue

a tim

eles

s qu

ality

par

ticul

arly

on

the

uppe

r slo

pes

of th

e va

lley.

H

owev

er w

ithin

the

valle

y its

elf t

he m

oder

n ag

ricul

tura

l ac

tiviti

es a

nd la

rge,

regu

lar f

ield

sha

pes

dem

onst

rate

the

chan

ge to

mod

ern

farm

ing

met

hods

mor

e ev

iden

t.

153

Page 162: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Upp

er T

wee

ddal

e N

SA –

7. M

ossf

enna

n, U

pper

Tw

eed

O

bjec

tive

Visu

alEm

otio

nal

The

land

form

is a

flat

val

ley

floor

with

v-s

hape

d st

eep

edge

of a

larg

e m

ount

ain

mas

sif a

nd a

long

sw

eepi

ng

skyl

ine.

Th

e m

assi

f is

cove

red

with

moo

rland

veg

etat

ion

i.e. g

rass

an

d he

athe

r with

one

larg

e co

nife

r pla

ntat

ion.

The

val

ley

is p

asto

ral w

ith s

tone

wal

ls, f

ence

s an

d ex

tens

ive

broa

dlea

ved

and

mix

ed tr

ees

on th

e sl

opes

. The

re a

re

occa

sion

al c

lum

ps o

f pin

e an

d sp

ruce

in th

e va

lley

floor

(p

ossi

ble

site

s of

anc

ient

farm

stea

ds).

Th

e la

nd u

se is

pas

tora

l agr

icul

tura

l with

ext

ensi

ve

graz

ing

with

in th

e va

lley

and

shoo

ting

and

fore

stry

on

the

mas

sif.

The

settl

emen

ts c

onsi

st o

f occ

asio

nal h

ouse

s al

ong

the

road

. The

re is

evi

denc

e of

man

y an

cien

t set

tlem

ents

, ca

irns

and

tow

ers.

The

re a

re a

lso

rem

nant

s of

railw

ay

infra

stru

ctur

e in

clud

ing

disu

sed

arch

es o

f brid

ges.

S

peci

fic fe

atur

es in

clud

e tre

e cl

umps

and

woo

dlan

d an

d sh

eer p

reci

pito

us s

carp

s of

the

mas

sif e

dge.

The

Riv

er

Twee

d is

larg

ely

inco

nspi

cuou

s on

the

far s

ide

of th

e va

lley.

B

oth

the

river

and

dis

used

railw

ay fo

llow

the

hill

foot

on

the

east

sid

e of

the

valle

y w

hile

the

road

follo

ws

the

hill

foot

on

the

wes

t sid

e w

ith th

e m

ain

agric

ultu

ral f

ield

s be

twee

n.

The

mai

n co

ntra

st is

of t

he s

teep

bar

e, n

atur

al, m

ount

ain

slop

e an

d th

e re

gula

r geo

met

ric p

atte

rns

of th

e ag

ricul

tura

l fie

lds

in th

e va

lley.

Th

e sc

ale

in th

e va

lley

is m

ediu

m w

hile

the

mou

ntai

n m

assi

f is

larg

e. T

he v

alle

y is

enc

lose

d by

ste

ep e

dges

of

hills

and

tree

s. T

here

is n

ot s

o m

uch

dive

rsity

her

e as

in

othe

r par

ts o

f the

NS

A. H

owev

er th

ere

is a

var

iety

of

colo

urs

in th

e sc

ene

with

gre

ens

in th

e va

lley

and

brow

n,

gree

n, g

rey,

gol

d an

d pu

rple

in th

e su

rroun

ding

hill

s.

The

road

is tu

cked

into

the

hills

ide

and

hidd

en b

y w

oodl

and

and

so is

not

ver

y ap

pare

nt in

the

scen

e. T

he

horiz

onta

l sha

rp h

ill fo

ot is

dis

tinct

ive

(the

river

is a

lso

on

this

line

but

is n

ot re

adily

vis

ible

). Th

e w

oodl

and

obsc

ures

muc

h of

the

land

form

. The

re is

a g

eom

etric

pa

ttern

of s

tone

dyk

es a

nd fe

nces

. A

way

from

the

mai

n ro

ad th

e va

lley

is q

uiet

and

pea

cefu

l w

ith re

lativ

ely

rem

ote

glen

s le

adin

g in

to th

e m

assi

f. Th

e ro

ad is

ver

y bu

sy a

nd n

oisy

but

onl

y on

one

sid

e of

the

valle

y so

it is

not

ove

rly in

trusi

ve. T

here

are

som

e sh

eep

and

othe

r lim

ited

agric

ultu

ral a

ctiv

ity.

The

impr

essi

on h

ere

is th

at it

is le

ss in

tens

ivel

y m

anag

ed

than

oth

er a

reas

and

has

a s

light

ly a

band

oned

feel

. It

is a

dyn

amic

cha

ngin

g la

ndsc

ape

with

evi

denc

e of

hi

stor

ic s

ettle

men

t e.g

. she

ep p

ens

alth

ough

they

are

not

ob

viou

s. T

here

is a

lso

railw

ay in

frast

ruct

ure.

The

se

hist

oric

rem

nant

s sh

ow h

ow th

e va

lley

has

chan

ged

and

evol

ved

over

tim

e. It

als

o gi

ves

the

hills

a fe

elin

g of

an

tiqui

ty a

nd ti

mel

essn

ess.

Th

ere

is n

ot s

uch

a w

elco

min

g fe

el to

the

valle

y as

it is

la

rgel

y in

acce

ssib

le. H

owev

er th

e de

ep g

lens

in th

e m

assi

f inv

ite e

xplo

ratio

n.

154

Page 163: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Upp

er T

wee

ddal

e N

SA –

8. E

aste

r Daw

yk M

ill (M

iddl

e Tw

eed)

Obj

ectiv

e

Vi

sual

Emot

iona

lTh

e ge

ntly

v-s

hape

d va

lley

is n

arro

w b

ut fl

at-b

otto

med

in

this

sce

ne. T

he e

ven

slop

es a

re la

rgel

y ob

scur

ed b

y w

oodl

and

and

get s

teep

er to

war

ds th

e su

rrou

ndin

g rid

ges.

The

rive

r Tw

eed

is v

ery

evid

ent h

ere

and

follo

ws

a w

indi

ng c

ours

e w

ith s

ome

cana

lised

sec

tions

. Th

e la

nd c

over

is im

prov

ed p

astu

re w

ith la

rge

coni

fero

us

plan

tatio

ns a

nd m

ixed

woo

dlan

d. T

here

are

a n

umbe

r of

larg

e br

oadl

eave

d tre

es in

the

valle

y w

ith s

ome

on th

e riv

erba

nk. T

he d

esig

ned

land

scap

e of

Sto

bo C

astle

is

incl

uded

in th

is s

ectio

n, w

hich

incl

udes

mat

ure

coni

fer

and

broa

dlea

ved

trees

in a

pas

tora

l set

ting.

The

land

use

is

agr

icul

ture

and

fore

stry

. Th

e se

ttlem

ent p

atte

rn c

onsi

sts

of c

lust

ers

of s

tead

ings

an

d oc

casi

onal

cot

tage

s. T

here

are

sm

all g

roup

ings

of

cotta

ges

and

hous

es a

roun

d th

e K

irk a

t Sto

bo a

nd

Daw

yk M

ill. S

tobo

Cas

tle h

as a

num

ber o

f lod

ges

and

build

ings

ass

ocia

ted

with

it.

Sto

bo C

astle

and

Kirk

are

spe

cific

land

mar

ks in

the

scen

e. O

ther

not

icea

ble

feat

ures

incl

ude

the

woo

dlan

ds

and

ston

e co

ttage

s w

ith s

late

roof

s.

Ther

e ar

e en

clos

ing

hills

to th

e w

est a

nd th

e w

oodl

ands

cl

ose

the

valle

y to

the

north

east

. The

re is

als

o m

ore

imm

edia

te e

nclo

sure

by

the

low

er h

ills

(kno

wes

) bel

ow

the

high

er h

ills. T

here

is a

stro

ng c

ontra

st w

ith th

e he

avily

w

oode

d va

lley

with

dis

tant

bar

e hi

lls e

nclo

sing

the

dale

. S

mal

l/med

ium

sca

le s

mal

ler t

han

othe

r are

as. L

arge

sc

ale

hills

in b

ackg

roun

d. T

he s

cene

is d

iver

se a

nd

loca

lly c

ompl

ex e

spec

ially

aro

und

the

chur

ch a

nd

woo

dlan

ds.

Pred

omin

atel

y gr

een

past

oral

land

scap

e w

ith d

ark

gree

n pl

anta

tions

. Bro

wne

r hills

in th

e di

stan

ce w

ith s

ome

purp

le. T

he ri

ver i

s br

own

clos

e to

but

app

ears

silv

ery

grey

from

the

dist

ance

. The

mov

emen

t of t

he w

ater

add

s to

the

scen

e Th

e riv

er ro

ad a

nd ra

ilway

mak

e up

the

form

and

line

in

the

view

and

con

trast

to th

e w

indi

ng li

ne o

f the

rive

r, th

ough

in s

ome

plac

es th

e riv

er h

as b

een

stra

ight

ened

pr

obab

ly c

anal

ised

due

to th

e ra

ilway

con

stru

ctio

n or

flo

od p

reve

ntio

n.

It is

gen

eral

ly p

eace

ful b

y th

e riv

er th

ough

the

road

is

fast

and

stra

ight

and

noi

sy. O

ther

mov

emen

ts in

clud

e fa

rm a

nim

als

and

field

bird

s.

The

scen

e is

tran

quil,

she

ltere

d an

d se

ttled

. It i

s sm

all

scal

e an

d in

timat

e. T

here

is a

nat

ural

dra

w to

the

river

, w

hich

thre

ads

its w

ay th

roug

h th

e ce

ntre

of t

he v

alle

y.

The

appe

aran

ce o

vera

ll is

invi

ting

and

inte

rest

ing

with

the

adde

d in

tere

st o

f the

chu

rch,

cas

tle a

nd s

urro

undi

ng

woo

dlan

d. I

t is

man

aged

and

sec

ure,

his

toric

and

es

tabl

ishe

d.

Ther

e is

not

a fe

elin

g of

sec

lusi

on a

nd th

is is

furth

er

less

ened

by

the

road

how

ever

the

feel

ing

is s

till o

f pa

stor

al a

nd p

eace

ful r

iver

val

ley.

Th

e ou

twar

d vi

ew to

hig

h sk

ylin

e of

ridg

es a

nd h

ills a

dds

anot

her d

imen

sion

to th

e pe

acef

ul ri

ver v

alle

y. T

he

ambi

ence

of t

he ri

ver i

s af

fect

ed b

y “c

anal

isat

ion”

in

som

e pa

rts o

f the

rive

r whi

ch h

as s

traig

hten

ed th

e ba

nks

and

adde

d de

pth

to th

e riv

er re

sulti

ng in

the

abse

nce

of

babb

ling

soun

ds, r

iffle

s an

d sh

ingl

e is

land

s.

155

Page 164: SNH Commissioned Report 255: Identifying the Special Qualities … · 2017. 7. 18. · Identifying the Special Qualities of Scotland’s National Scenic Areas Commissioned Report

Upp

er T

wee

ddal

e N

SA –

9. T

wee

ddal

e G

orge

nea

r Nei

dpat

h (o

n R

ailw

ay B

ridge

)

Obj

ectiv

e

Vi

sual

Emot

iona

lTh

e la

ndfo

rm fr

om th

is v

iew

poin

t is

a st

eep

side

d na

rrow

go

rge

with

ext

ensi

ve w

oodl

and

cove

rage

on

the

stee

p si

ded

slop

es. T

here

are

lim

ited

area

s of

flat

floo

d pl

ain

on

the

gorg

e bo

ttom

. The

Riv

er T

wee

d is

at i

ts w

ides

t with

in

the

NS

A.

Th

ere

is s

emi-n

atur

al g

rass

land

on

the

smal

l are

as o

f flo

odpl

ain

with

ald

er, b

irch

and

will

ow o

n th

e ed

ge o

f riv

er. T

he w

oodl

and

is m

ixed

pla

ntat

ion

with

man

y in

trodu

ced

spec

ies

(pro

babl

y V

icto

rian)

. The

land

use

is

fishi

ng, w

alki

ng a

nd fo

rest

ry.

Ther

e ar

e oc

casi

onal

hou

ses

by th

e ro

adsi

de. N

eidp

ath

Cas

tle is

on

the

prom

onto

ry b

y th

e go

rge.

Dry

ston

e w

alls

ru

n al

ong

the

road

and

fore

st e

dge.

Th

e riv

er d

omin

ates

the

scen

e w

ith th

e br

idge

and

cas

tle

at fo

cal p

oint

s. O

utw

ard

view

s to

the

wes

t rev

eal s

moo

th

ridge

s of

moo

rland

hills

, whi

lst i

n ot

her d

irect

ions

ther

e is

a

clos

e sk

ylin

e of

pla

ntat

ions

.

Riv

er a

nd w

oodl

and

dom

inat

e th

e sc

ene

with

the

woo

dlan

d cl

ingi

ng to

the

gorg

e sl

opes

and

ove

rhan

ging

riv

er. T

he e

ye is

dra

wn

to th

e br

idge

s an

d di

stan

t hills

. W

hils

t the

gor

ge is

of a

larg

e sc

ale

the

impr

essi

on o

f the

ar

ea is

enc

lose

d an

d in

timat

e, s

eclu

ded

and

hidd

en.

Ther

e is

div

ersi

ty a

s th

e w

oodl

and

is v

arie

d an

d th

ere

are

patc

hes

of g

rass

land

and

a s

mal

l isl

and

as w

ell a

s th

e riv

er it

self.

The

rive

r sur

face

var

ies

with

riffl

es, w

eirs

and

sh

ingl

e ba

nks.

Som

e of

the

bank

s ar

e op

en a

nd s

ome

over

hang

with

tree

s.

It is

sea

sona

lly c

olou

rful w

ith w

ildflo

wer

s su

ch a

s th

e pu

rple

sw

athe

s of

rose

bay

will

ow h

erb

and

the

crea

m o

f m

eado

wsw

eet.

Ther

e is

the

yello

w g

reen

of t

he g

rass

an

d th

e m

osai

c of

gre

ens

of th

e w

oodl

and,

whi

ch li

nes

the

gorg

e. T

he ri

ver i

tsel

f is

brow

n w

ith c

olou

rful

refle

ctio

ns.

The

win

ding

rive

r thr

ough

the

gorg

e, li

nes

of s

tone

wal

ls

and

the

railw

ay li

ne m

akes

the

line

and

form

of t

he

scen

e. T

he ro

ad is

onl

y vi

sibl

e w

hen

cars

go

past

. Th

ere

is c

onst

ant m

ovem

ent a

nd s

ound

with

in th

e riv

er

itsel

f. R

egul

ar tr

affic

sou

nd a

nd b

irdso

ng in

the

woo

ds.

The

over

all i

mpr

essi

on o

f thi

s se

ctio

n of

the

river

is o

f hi

dden

gor

ge tu

cked

aw

ay fr

om th

e re

st o

f the

mor

e pa

stor

al v

alle

y. T

he ri

ver i

s re

fresh

ing

and

imbu

es a

se

nse

of p

eace

and

rela

xatio

n th

ough

the

road

det

ract

s fro

m q

uiet

ness

and

is in

trusi

ve in

the

scen

e.

Glim

pses

of t

he h

ills a

nd th

e w

ider

val

ley

beyo

nd th

e go

rge

mak

e th

e di

stan

t vie

ws

invi

ting

for w

alke

rs a

nd

give

add

ed in

tere

st to

the

scen

e.

The

river

in th

is s

ectio

n ha

s rif

fles

and

wei

rs in

it, w

hich

ad

d pa

rticu

lar i

nter

est a

nd p

leas

ant n

oise

s to

the

scen

e an

d co

ntra

st w

ith th

e de

ep, s

till p

ools

by

the

edge

s of

the

river

. Th

e au

ster

e N

eidp

ath

Cas

tle o

n its

dom

inat

ing

rock

y pr

omon

tory

giv

es a

sen

se o

f his

tory

and

mys

tery

to th

e go

rge.

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Upper Tweeddale Landscape Character Assessment

Landscape Type 3 – Plateau Outliers An upland plateau landscape characterised by hills and ridges covered by a mosaic of coarse grassland, heather and forestry, clearly separated from adjoining types by major river valleys. Key Characteristics

• Discrete hill masses separated from main plateau by major river valleys. • Greater height difference between summits and valley floors. • Mosaic of land cover types: heather moor, grassland and plantation woodland. • Low density settlement, mainly confined to sheltered valleys.

(Pages 57 – 60) BH – Broughton Heights ELI – Eddleston /Lyne Inter fluva Landscape Type 4 – Southern Uplands Type with Scattered Forest An upland landscape characterised by large-scale, rolling heather and grassland covered hills. Key Characteristics

• Large-scale rolling landform with higher dome or cone-shaped summits. • Significant areas of peatland and heather moorland. • Mosaic of grassland, bracken and rushes on lower ground. • Locally-prominent scattered large coniferous plantations

(Pages 61 – 65) Landscape Character Areas - Distinctive Features BG – Broadlaw Group

- High summits with glacially-sculpted features rising steeply to 840m. Megget, Talla and Fruid reservoirs and St Mary’s prominent to the south of Broad Law;

- Significant “wild land” atmosphere created by remoteness of high summits: - Extensive coniferous plantations in the north at Traquair, Elibank, Cardona and Yair Hill

forests and fringing the upper Tweed river valley in the west. Landscape Type 22 – Upland Valley with Pastoral Floor A landscape characterised by flat valley bottom pastures, strongly enclosed by steep valley sides merging with heather and forest covered uplands. Key characteristics

• Glaciated valley with moderately to strongly sloping sides and flat floor modified by river bluffs and glacial moraine.

• Improved pastures with occasional small woodlands and tree lines on valley floor, and rough unimproved grazing, heather moorland or coniferous forest on valley sides.

• Scattered stone built villages with farmsteads and dwellings dispersed along river terraces, lower valley sides and tributary valleys.

• A simple, distinctive landscape strongly enclosed by uplands with intermittent long views along valley corridor.

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Landscape Character Areas - Distinctive Features UT – Upper Tweed

- Narrow valley floor, characterised by small permanent pasture fields divided by drystone dykes;

- Coniferous forestry prominent on valley sides and adjacent uplands MT – Manor Water

- Locally prominent scree and rock outcrops. BW – Biggar Water

- Broad flat floored valley with smooth gently to moderately sloping sides and narrow straightened river channel;

- Large pasture and scattered arable fields divided by fences, drainage channels, drystone dykes and widely dispersed shelterbelts;

- Simple, uniform, open character with distant views along valley. Ly – Lyne Water

- Predominantly small scale, narrow flat bottomed valley, widening at junction of Tarth Water, with moderately sloping sides;

- Medium sized permanent pasture fields, divided by drystone dykes and mature deciduous tree and hedgerows, contrast with heather and grass moorland on upper valley sides;

- Scattered farmsteads on valley floor edge and immediate hill slopes; - Steep gullies and tributary valleys often wooded or with gorse and scrub; - Dominant coniferous plantation on upper valley sides of Tarth Water.

(Pages 149 – 153) Landscape Type 25 – Upland Valley with Woodland An enclosed valley landscape with significant woodland cover. Key Characteristics

• Meandering river valley, strongly enclosed by uplands. • Flat valley floor, broad and open in places, narrow and more intimate in others. • Prominent terraces (haugh lands) caused by fluvial and glacial action. • Strong influence of woodland, with extensive coniferous forest plantations prominent on

valley sides, and mature hedgerow tree lines, broadleaf, and mixed policy woodlands on valley floor.

• Traditional dwellings, farmsteads and hamlets clustered at the foot of valley side slopes. • Mill towns prominent on valley floor and sides. • Tower houses and mansions common along river banks.

Landscape Character Areas – Distinctive features MT – Middle Tweed

- Significant urban settlement in Peebles and Innerleithen; - Forestry plantations prominent on valley sides

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Upper Tweeddale History, Culture and Literary Association

History Upper Tweeddale’s historic past is largely associated with its position on the border of Scotland and England. Forts and Castles have been built at various times to protect the area such as the Lyne Roman fort at the foot of the Meldons, built in the 2nd century AD, and the Iron Age fort at Dreva Craig, constructed around the knoll of the hill in the first millennium. Both of the Black and White Meldons are crowned by Iron Age hill forts, which defended agricultural settlements, more than 2,000 years ago. There are also standing stones, sheep pens and tower houses still evident today showing the areas continual habitation. Neidpath Castle is of 13th century origin and is one of the grandest Tweed Valley Tower Houses. Former home of the Fraser Hay and Douglas families it has been much restored in recent years. On the slope between the castle and river can be seen the terraces on which formal gardens were once laid out. Famous visitors to the castle included Mary, Queen of Scots and James I and James VI. The castle was a stronghold for Charles II and the walls still bear damage caused when it was besieged by Cromwell’s troops. The seven-arch railway bridge was opened in 1864 to bring an extension of the Biggar, Broughton and Symington line into Peebles from the west. To reach the town from the bridge, a half-mile tunnel was cut below South Park Wood. Never a commercial success, the line lost its passenger traffic in 1950 and was closed down 12 years later. Remains of railway infrastructure are evident throughout the valley. The Tweed is one of Scotland’s most famous angling rivers particularly for salmon fishing. In places the fishing is either strictly preserved or very expensive. The best months for salmon fishing are usually September, October and November; the start of the season depends on an autumn spate raising the river level enough for the salmon to come upstream from the sea. Literary Associations This area was the stamping ground of the border reivers, those horse thieves, cattle thieves and murderers, who featured so prominently in the world-famous border ballads. This historic backdrop has inspired writers and poets most noticeably Sir Walter Scott and James Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd, nearly 200 years ago. More recently John Buchan, a British author and statesman who became the 1st Baron Tweedsmuir, used Upper Tweeddale as the setting in some of his books. Buchan wrote over 50 books, especially fast-moving adventure stories such as the Thirty-nine steps (1915). His biographical works include Montrose (1928) and Sir Walter Scott (1932). Family holidays at his mothers parents house at Broughton in Tweeddale were a powerful influence in his life. There is now the John Buchan centre housed in the former church building in Broughton village, where he himself often attended services. There is now the John Buchan Way running from Peebles to Broughton, which was opened in 2003.

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APPENDIX 6

RECOMMENDED FIELDSHEETS FOR USE IN FIELDWORK

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Special Qualities of the National Scenic Areas

Field sheet 1 - Objective Analysis of the Landscape Name of NSA Name of Viewpoint / Route Make an objective description of what you can see. Use the LCA summary and add to where appropriate. Describe form, cover, habitats, settlement, features and wildlife objectively. Landform (e.g. topographical features such as mountains, ridges, scarps, hills, drumlins, dunes,

beaches, cliffs, gorges, valleys)

Land cover (including water)

(e.g. bare rock, alpine and montane areas, open sea, heather moorland, grass moorland, open water, running water, mosaics, patchworks, ponds and pools, estuaries, sandflats, mudflats, saltmarsh, burns, waterfalls, peatlands)

Land use (e.g. arable farmland, pastoral farmland, open grazing, rectilinear and other field patterns, forestry plantations, Caledonian pinewood, semi-natural woodlands, broadleaved woodland, policy woodlands)

Settlement pattern (e.g. uninhabited, sparsely populated, town, villages, scattered dwellings, crofts, steadings, castles, towers, kirks, vernacular buildings, distinctive building materials, building types and styles, settlement pattern especially related to natural features)

Specific features and wildlife

(e.g. distinctive, characteristic or unusual point and linear features such as hedges, stone dykes, walls, shelterbelts, avenues. Wildlife that makes a marked contribution to the scenery such as sea bird colonies, machair grassland flowers)

List any other distinctive physical characteristics of the landscape that you can see, noting important combinations / contrasts.

Continue overleaf if necessary

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Special Qualities of the National Scenic Areas Field sheet 2 - Visual Analysis of the Landscape

Name of NSA Name of Viewpoint / Route Undertake a visual analysis of the characteristics of the landscape, adding more detail and focusing on links / relationships / combinations / juxtapositions / contrasts e.g. between landform and settlement; landform and land use; landform and land cover. (e.g. steep sided mountains with distinctive spectacular profiles, rising from irregular hills and more uniform open moorland and loch).

Continue overleaf if necessaryVisual Experience

Describe the following characteristics of the landscape. Record whether different areas of or features in the scene have different characteristics e.g. hills may be large scale open, valleys small scale enclosed

Scale (e.g. vast, large, medium, small, intimate)

Openness (e.g. exposed, open, varied, sheltered, secluded, hidden)

Diversity (e.g. complex, diverse, simple, homogenous)

Colour and Texture

(e.g. garish, colourful, muted, monochrome, dominant colour(s), rugged, rough, textured, smooth)

Form and line (e.g. rivers, roads, vertical plantations, walls, slopes, angles)

Movement, weather and sound

(e.g. busy, noisy, constant/occasional movement/noise, calm, still, silent, quiet. How will changes in weather affect your visual experience?)

Other notable visual characteristics of the landscape

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Special Qualities of the National Scenic Areas Field sheet 3 - Personal Response to the Landscape

Name of NSA Name of Viewpoint / Route A subjective description of your personal response to, and feelings about the scene. Note any contrasting feelings relating to different parts of the scene, if applicable. (e.g. exhilarating, inspiring, exciting, awesome, challenging, surprising, spectacular, dramatic, turbulent, unsettling, uncomfortable, wild, remote, isolated, undiscovered, secret, mysterious, tranquil, peaceful, hidden, idyllic, contrasting, harmonious, unified, refreshing, reassuring, comforting). Imagine how the scene may change at different times of the year, or in different weather conditions. NOTE PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN – Number / Direction / Stitched / Single etc

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