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Skin Creams

In cosmetics, creams signify a solid or semisolid emulsion. If an emulsion has a viscosity which allows for pouring,due to gravity, then it is not a cream. However, creams and lotions will be dealt with together as skin creams.

Ingredients and types of creams are numerous that no comprehensive books can contain all details. In addition,

new products and ingredients are being introduced on daily basis.

Classification of Skin Creams

Traditionally, creams are classified according to their function, some cream types are listed below:

1. Cleansing creams: they are oily in nature due to medium to high oil content

2. Cold creams: can be either o/w or w/o emulsions which are difficult to rub-in. Both cleansing and

cold creams contain surfactants to improve penetration and suspension properties.

3. Moisturizing creams: These are characterized by low oil content and ease of spreading and rub-in.

Usually contain emollients and moisturizing ingredients.4. Vanishing creams: These are composed of a low slip-point oil phase and are neutral or slightly

acidic and may contain emollients and special moisturizing agents.

5. Protective creams: Usually of low to medium oil content and are easily spreadable. They may have

a slightly alkaline or acidic properties and contain protective oils like silicones and lanolin.

6. All-purpose cream: Medium oil content which can be an o/w or a w/o emulsion but very oftenslightly oily. They are easily spreadable.

The cosmetic chemist should observe the following in any cream formulation:

1. Volume ratio of oil to water.

2. The nature of the continuous phase.

3. The pH of the emulsion.

4. The type of the emollients used.5. The slip-point of the oil phase.

Cleansing Creams

To ensure a healthy and good looking skin, one should remove:1. Grime

2. Sebum and other secretions

3. Dead cells

4. Crusts

5. Applied makeup

Water is an excellent and cheap cleansing agent but unfortunately very weak on oils. Therefore, soaps and

detergents are added to water to improve its cleansing properties. However, the use of such cleanser is

convenient in bath rooms or similar places. In addition, too much oil can be removed from the skin surface leaving

it dry and rough and when alkaline soaps are used outermost cells may separate from their neighbors.

Properties of a good cleansing cream

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1. Water and oil based with medium to high oil content

2. Unable to completely degrease the skin

3. Leave a thin film of emollient oil4. Easily spreadable

5. Should not rub-in

6. Should not irritate the skin

Traditionally, cleansing creams were composed of beeswax and olive oil. Both have characteristic odor which

should be masked. Therefore, in the twentieth century, mineral oil substituted olive oil. In addition, borax was

found to have a positive effect on the characteristics of creams as borax reacts with the free fatty acids from wax

forms soaps in situ.

Although beeswax is still used in many preparations, it has two disadvantages:

1. It has a characteristic odor which should be masked

2. Its price and quality are variable throughout the year and location

Borax is usually mixed with the molten wax where the sodium salts of the free fatty acids will be formed at the

oil/water interface. The amount of borax added is about 5-6% of the mass of the wax. This means that only part

of the free fatth acids will be converted to soaps. However, this ratio was found to result in better cream

formulations.

Examples of cleansing cream formulations

Ingredient 1 2 3

Beeswax 5 16 12

Mineral oil 45 50 -

Borax (Na2B4O7) 0.2 0.8 0.5

Monocrystalline wax 7 - -

Spermaceti* - - 12.5

Sesame oil - - 40

Paraffin wax 10 - -

Water 32.8 33.2 35

Perfume, preservative Qs Qs Qs

*Spermaceti is the semiliquid, waxy substance found in the head of the Sperm Whale, this is extracted from whaleoil by crystallisation at 6 °C

Bentones (A clay formed by the decomposition of volcanic ash, having the ability to absorb large quantities of water

and to expand to several times its normal volume) are used as alternatives to waxes as thickeners for oil phase.

Preparation of Creams

1. The oil phase is heated to 75 oC until melting occurs

2. Borax is dissolved in water and heated to 75 oC

3. The aqueous phase is slowly added to the oil phase with continued stirring until the temperature

reaches 45 oC where the perfume is added.

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Improving the Efficiency of Cleansing Creams

Nonionic surfactants can be used to increase the efficiency of the beeswax/borax emulsions and usually results in

more stable preparations. The most widely used nonionic surfactant is the sorbitan fatty acid esters.

Sorbitan monostearate

Examples of formulations that use nonionic surfactants:

Ingredient 1 2

Beeswax 10 10

Mineral oil 50 20

Lanolin 3.1 3.0

Borax 0.7 0.7

Hydrogenated vegetable oil - 25

Antioxidant - 0.5

Sorbitan sesquioleate 1 -

Sorbitan stearate (an emulsifier, a thickener and a stabilizer of

essential oils in lotion products)

- 5.0

*Polysorbate 60 (Polyoxyethylene (20) Sorbitan Monostearate) - 2.0

Water 35.2 33.8

Perfume Qs Qs

Preservative Qs Qs

*A viscous, oily, water-soluble emulsifier enabling water & oil to mix. Used to stabilize cream preparations and act asa modifier and stabilizer of shampoos.

Cellulose derivatives are sometimes used in order to thicken oil in water emulsions as in the following formulation:

Ingredient %

Beeswax 8.0

Mineral oil 49

Paraffin wax 7.0

Cetyl alcohol 1.0

PEG 15 cocamine 1.0

Borax 0.4

Cellulose derivative (thickener) 0.2

water 33.4

Beeswax derivatives have also been used as o/w emulsions. The following two formulations are commercially

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available:

Ingredients 1 2

Mineral oil 50 50

Beeswax - 7

PEG-8 sorbitan beeswax 12 -

PEG-20 sorbitan beeswax 3 8

Polysorbate 40 - 2

Perfume, preservatives Qs Qs

water 35 33

Cold Creams

Lighter creams of the o/w type are also available. The following 5 formulations are examples of such creams(formulations 1 & 2 are good wash creams):

Ingredients 1 2 3 4 5

Mineral oil 30 29 18 10 -

Stearic acid 10 13.5 - 3 4

Triethanolamine 2 1.8 - 1.8 1

Glyceryl stearate - - 15 - -

Carboxymethyl cellulose 0.5 - - - -

Water 57 52 55 85 66

Glycerin - 2 5 - 1

Sodium alginate - 1.8 - - -

Cety lalcohol - - 2 0.5 -

Spermaceti - - 5 - -

*Squalene - - - - 28

Perfume Qs Qs Qs Qs Qs

preservative Qs Qs Qs Qs Qs

*Squalene (an oil free moisturizer) is a natural organic compound originally obtained for commercial purposesprimarily from shark liver oil, though there are botanic sources as well, including rice bran, wheat germ, and olives.

All higher organisms produce squalene, including humans. It is a hydrocarbon and a triterpene. The structure ofsqualene is shown below:

Acidity of the Skin

Since the discovery of the acidic nature of the skin, creams were made buffered slightly acidic. Also, washabilitywas observed to improve when the sodium salt of cetylsulfate was used. The cetyl derivative was found to be

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better than lauryl due to its higher emulsification ability, less foam, as well as lower irritation.

An example of such a formulation is listed below:

Ingredient %

Sorbitan sesquioleate 8

Ozokerite wax* 30

Petrolatum** 4

Mineral oil 10

Lanolin 12

Water 30

Lemon juice 6

Perfume, preservative Qs

*is a waxy mineral that is a mixture of hydrocarbons and occurs in association with petroleum or coal. Its melting

point from 58 to 100 °C. It is soluble in ether, petroleum, benzene, turpentine, chloroform, carbon disulfide, &c.Galician ozokerite varies in color from light yellow to dark brown, and frequently appears green owing to

dichroism. It usually melts at 62 °C. Chemically, ozokerite consists of a mixture of various hydrocarbons,containing 85-7% by weight of carbon and 14-3% of hydrogen.** A smooth, semisolid blend of mineral oil with waxes crystallized from the residual type of petroleum lubricating

oil; the wax molecules contain 30-70 carbon atoms and are straight chains with a few branches or naphthalenerings; used as a lubricant, as a carrier in polishes and cosmetics, and as a rust preventive.

Good washability creams also find good markets. Example formulations are listed below:

Ingredient 1 2

Mineral oil 40 52

Ozokerite wax 3 -

Cetyl alcohol 2 3

Sodium cetyl sulfate 1 3

Water 54 23

Beeswax - 5.6

Paraffin wax - 5

Petrolatum - 8.4

Perfume, preservative Qs Qs

Some other formulations may contain vitamins especially A, B, D, and F. Vitamin C is usually added as an

antioxidant.

Moisturizing and Vanishing Creams

Moisturizing creams are most widely used in order to attain a soft and smooth skin. Vanishing creams arecharacterized by their ease of spreading and rapid disappearance.

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Types of Dry Skin

Normally, three types of dry skin can be identified:1. Dryness is due to prolonged exposure to low humidity which modify the normal hydration gradient

of the skin.2. Dryness can be caused through physical or chemical factors leading to continual degreasing.

3. Dryness of skin due to aging, which is primarily due to UV exposure.

Strategies to restoring water to dry skin:1. Use of humectants

2. Occlusive approaches (like gloves, lanolin, mineral or vegetable oil)3. Use of artificial skin lipid mixtures

Most recently, quaternium substances of cellulose and gluconic acid (quaternary ammonium complexes) have

been found to act as skin barrier materials that not only behave as moisturizers but also as skin conditioners.

Examples of formulations using quaternium substances are listed below:

Ingredient %

Isopropyl linoleate* 2

Glyceryl stearate* 3

Diisopropyladipate* 2

Myristyl myristate* 1

PEG-40 stearate* 1

Cetyl alcohol 1.5

Quaternium 22 2

Hydroxyethyl cellulose (2%) 25

Propylene glycol 3

Water 59

Perfume, preservative Qs

* alkyl esters are used as emollients A formulation of a simple vanishing cream is shown below:

Ingredient %

Stearic acid 15

KOH 0.7

Glycerin 8

Water 76

Perfume, preservative Qs

Hand Creams

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Hands are usually subjected to severe environmental conditions like soaps, and hot detergents, among manyothers. These materials solubilize lipids and damage cell walls. Hands will become dry and flaky which is referredto as dishpan hands. Hand creams are supposed to remedy this problem and mosturize the skin as well. In thisrespects, lotions are preferred over solid creams.

Hand Dermatitis

The hands of some people are sensitive to normal daily activities and easily become dry, cracked, and scaly.

Water, soap, detergents, and cleansers are the most common reasons in triggering this problem, which occurs inhousewives, nurses, cooks, beauticians, waiters and others whose hands are repeatedly wetted. The rash causedby these exposures is a mild to severe irritation, not an allergy.

Blistering rashes may occur on the hands. They may look like dishpan hands, and are irritated and worsened bywater and cleanser exposure. The treatment of these ‘hand eczemas' of whatever cause is the same.

Prevention of Further Irritation

1. Decrease exposure to water and cleansers as much as possible. This might mean asking another

household member to do some of these chores, or being temporarily transferred to another sort of job atwork. Frequency of wetting and drying is more important than the duration of wetting, so washing onelarge load of dishes a day is better than doing several small ones during the day. If you can use tongs andlong-handled brushes when practical, this decreases water exposure. Unfortunately, rubber or plastic

household gloves are not of great benefit in protecting you from common household exposures because itis the wetting which is most damaging, and gloves trap sweat and make the hand completely wet after afew minutes of wearing. Avoiding wetting is much more effective than trying to protect against wetting.

2. Lubricating the skin is important to replace natural skin oils leached out by wetting. You should stopusing all commercial hand lotions and moisturizing creams and use only the products your doctor

recommends, because many of the commercial products contain fragrances and other chemicals whichare irritants. Plain greases, such as mineral oil or Vaseline, are the safest. These should be rubbed inthinly very often: after every water exposure, and whenever the skin feels dry. This may requireapplications as often as 10 times a day, especially at the beginning, but overlubrication is impossible, and

underlubrication is harmful.

3. Treatment of the inflamed skin itself is by cortisone creams. Potent ones are usually necessary becausepenetration through thick skin is poor. The cortisone cream or ointment is applied thinly two or threetimes a day, especially after water exposure. If the cream alone does not suppress redness and itching,then a much greater effect can be obtained by covering the cream with a disposable plastic glove.

This ‘occlusion' greatly increases penetration of the medication, and softens and humidifies dry skin.

After wearing the gloves overnight, for a few hours, or as long as possible, the hands should be rinsed anda cortisone cream or lubricant applied to prevent drying. If only the palms of the hand have a rash, thenthe glove fingers can be cut off to make wearing the glove more comfortable.

After the rash has improved, or is under control, a mild cortisone cream is used instead of the potent one. Prolonged use of potent cortisone creams, especially under plastic gloves, may cause thinning of the skin.

Lubricants alone will suffice if the rash has resolved, and cortisone creams can be used again if a relapse occurs.

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If the hand inflammation does not respond to external therapy, then your doctor may recommend cortisone pills or

shots. These usually improve the rash but may have internal side effects, and the rash may reappear when theyare stopped, so they are used with caution for only short periods.

Examples of such lotions are listed below: Example 1:

Ingredient %

Glyceryl stearate 2.7

Cetyl alcohol 1.5

Dimethicone 1.5

Lanolin oil 2

Squalene 3

Sodium lauryl sulfate 0.3

Water T0 100

Perfume, preservative Qs

Example 2:

Ingredient %

Stearic acid 7

Lanolin 0.5

Sorbitan oleate 0.5

Sorbitol* 10

Water To 100

Perfume, preservative Qs

* A white, sweetish material, C6H8(OH)6, found in various berries and fruits or prepared synthetically and used

as a flavoring agent, a sugar substitute and a moisturizer in cosmetics and other products.

Example 3:

Ingredient %

CTAB 1.5

Cetyl alcohol 2.5

glycerin 8

Lanolin oil 2

Isopropyl myristate 3

Water T0 100

Perfume, preservative Qs

All Purpose Creams

As mentioned earlier, these creams are characterized by medium oil content and can be formulated to be easilyspreadable. Examples are shown below:Example 1:

Ingredient %

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Trioleate phosphate 3

Petrolatum 18

Glyceryl stearate 5

Isopropyl palmitate 4

Cetyl alcohol 2

Stearyl heptanoate 0.5

Stearyl octanoate 0.5

Sorbitol 5

Water T0 100

Perfume, preservative Qs

Example 2 and 3:

Ingredients 1 2

Stearic acid 15 15

Beeswax 2 2

Lanolin 4 2

Mineral oil 23 34

Polysorbate 85 1 -

Sorbitol trioleate 1 -

PEG-40 stearate - 5

Sorbitol 12 10

Water T0 100 T0 100

Perfume, preservative Qs Qs

See also the following information from the literature on facial creams:

FORMULATIONS BASICS: FACIAL CREAM

Before starting...Facial care creams formulations include many kinds of formulations, depending on the nature of

the skin or on the desired effects. Either protection against pollution and oxidation is needed oranti-wrinkle activity. Actives may also be added in order to correct an oily/ greasy skin, a dry ora sensitive skin.. Many formulations are basically Oil in Water emulsions or Water in Oilemulsions. The typical skin care emulsion is now more likely to be o/w than w/o. Technology

has advanced to the point where w/o stable emulsions can be prepared at room temperature.

Required qualities : Neutral or pleasant odor and color

Easy to spread, pleasant feeling during application

Easy penetration

Non-oily/ non-greasy after application

Non comedogenic

Well tolerance/ non-allergenic

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Bring hydration

Typical Ingredients Usual Method

Must Use Emulsifiers 2-6%Emollients 10-35 %Thickener 0.1-1%

DeionizedWater

Q.S.

Usual

Preservatives 0.2-1 %Humectants 1-8 %Consistencyfactors

1-6%

Antioxidants 0.01-0.05%UV filters 0.01-0.5%

Optional

ChelatingAgents

0-0.02 %

Fragrance 0.1-1 %Active agents 0.1-2%

Colouringagents

Q.S.

Aestheticenhancers

0.1-5%

Aqueous phase: Thickener is dispersed in cold or warm water at75-80°C (depending on the recommandations of the producer)under intensive stirring, until a homogeneous gel is formed. Thisfirst phase is combined with the oily phase (Lipophilic

components : emulsifiers + emollients + consistency factors) thathas also been melted and heated to the same temperature. Mixunder intensive stirring until emulsion is formed. Then mix gentlywhile emulsion is being cooled. Sensitive components like

actives, special additives and preservatives are added after themixture has been cooled (40-30°C) to keep their propertiesintact.

Tips

How to vary the consistency of your cream?

- Changing the % of the oily phase allows variations in the finalviscosity of your preparation. For Oil in Water emulsion thegreater the oily phase the higher the viscosity. Inversely for

Water in Oil or Water in Silicone emulsion : the greater theaqueous phase the higher the viscosity.

- Vary the % of thickeners (gelling agents or consistency agentslike waxes). However some stabilizers can prevent settlingwithout increasing the viscosity.

Sample Recipe : "Vanishing cream"

Ingredients Method

Composition Function%

(w/w)

Phase A

Glyceryl stearate

Emulsifier/

consistencyagent

4.00

Stearic acidEmulsifier/consistencyagent

16.0

Ceteareth-12* Emulsifier 3.00Octyldodecanol Emollient 3.00Paraffinum liquidum Emollient 3.00

Phase A and phase B have to be mixedand heated separately to 80°C. Add slowlyB into A under intensive stirring until theemulsion is formed. Then add more quickly

the rest of the phase and keep stirringduring a few minutes. Continue stirringgently until the temperature is at 40°C. ThenAdd phase C. Keep stirring the mixtureslowly while it is being cooled.

*Ceteareth-n (where n is a number) refer topolyoxyethylene ethers of a mixture of highmolecular mass saturated fatty alcohols

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Dry skin

formulation

Ingredients choice criteria:

- Slow down the TEWL (Transepidermal water loss) by using occlusiveemollients in the oily phase (squalane, beeswax, triglycerides, essential fattyacids, silicones..)

- Reenforce or reconstitute the NMF (Natural moisturizing factor) withadequate additives (sodium lactate, sodium PCA)

- Bring humectancy with hygroscopic components (urea, allantoin, polyols,

hyaluronic acid..)

Enhanceaesthetic

As indicated above, aesthetic enhancers may be added: eg- pearlescentpigments, texturing agents, soft-feeling agents like silicone elastomers.

Phase B

Triethanolamine pH buffer 0.50Deionized Water 69.3Phase CPhenoxyethanol, methyl-,

ethyl-, propyl-, butyl-,isopropyl paraben

Preservative 0.7

Fragrance 0.5

(mainly cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol). Thenumber n indicates the average number of

etyhlene oxide residues in the polyoxyethylenechain.

These compounds are non-ionic surfactants,fequently used as emulsifiers in cosmetics