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Transcript of Ski Country Magazine 2013
SkiCountry
Angel Fire
ChAmA
DurAngo
PAgosA sPrings
TAos
TAos ski VAlley
reD riVer
siPAPu
ski APAChe
souTh Fork
WolF Creek
GUIDE TO SKIING THE SOUTHWEST
Winter 2013
SCAN ME!
3
575.377.6612
ski reservation hotline:
575.377.6559
angel fire’s top shop
near the resort hotel
wintersportsskishop.com
SKIWEAR
SKIS &BOARDS
RETAIL &RENTAL
6 SKICOUNTRY 2013
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Welcome
Taos Lodging
Our Towns
Disney Shoots Lone Ranger
Ski The Southwest
Taos Ski Valley, Angel Fire Resort
Red River, Enchanted Forest XC
Ski Apache, Sipapu
Purgatory at DMR, Wolf Creek
Durango – Ski Town
Hot Springs and Cold Spots
Blasting Into the Backcountry
Dining
Calendar of Events
7www.hawk-media.com
CONTENTS
Publisher/Editor Joe Haukebo
Design/Production Digerati Design
Advertising Sales Jess Heald
Contributing Writers John Biscello, Michael Johnstone, Michele Potter
Photography Sven Brunso, Geraint Smith, Scott D.W. Smith
Cover photo Courtesy of Scott D.W. Smith / Durango Mountain Resort
Contents photo Geraint Smith
HighCountry and SkiCountry Visitor Guides are published by Hawk Media. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission from the Publisher. Requests for permission should be directed to:
Hawk MediaPO Box 182Angel Fire, NM 87710
575 595 0575 | 575 758 4047
Scan this code! Or visit us at www.hawk-media.comfor more articles, photos & e-zines
angel fire
more thana mountain
SKICOUNTRY 20138
O ut of breath, a younger cousin of mine burst into her parents’
motel room. “What’s the matter? What’s the matter?” they asked. “The pool… is full of cousins,” she said. A family reunion years ago. And as nothing is cooler than cousins, she was overwhelmed seeing so many cousins all at once. All of us, when we were young, com-plained to our parents that we didn’t see our cousins – and there were tons of them – enough. And to parents who often preached about the importance of family, we knew they were easy targets: we were just buck-ing for a trip. Sometimes, it paid off. Now, most of us grown up and parents ourselves, we hear the same thing. But the logistics are even more sketchy. Cousins we occasionally see at weddings and funerals are scattered everywhere, settled into their own busy lives. In our tribe there are all kinds of cous-ins. They come in all shape and sizes: skinny and fat, brainiacs and meatheads, funny and quiet, energetic and not so much. But there’s a similarity between us all. With billions of people on the planet, it’s a little scary to look out and see some of yourself in others, and notice some of them in you; their actions and antics can look a little too familiar. Still, all of us love cousin time. “You can’t hurt steel,” one of my favor-ites used to say when I’d see him and sock him in the arm. We were boys, rough and tough, not huggers, unless maybe when we were wrestling. Cousins were always full of bad ideas, dumb dares, even dumber double dares. But they were always good for a laugh, an adventure – trouble waiting to happen. Our parents would roll their eyes – we gave them plenty of opportunities to practice – and wonder how something so good
a village
a vacation
a destination
a dream
a home
9www.hawk-media.com
dining
shopping
sledding
tubing
fishing
snowmobile
sleigh ride
snowshoe
cross country
downhill
…or just relax
(family) could get so quickly out of hand. Trouble followed us or we followed trouble – to our parents, same difference. None of us were rotten kids; we just had a healthy appetite for mischief. It was more a case of spontaneous combustion than calculated planning by the kids. It would start out innocently enough when you’re small – jumping on the bed, running around naked in the neighbor’s yard, finding stashed Christmas gifts early, and unwrapping them all to make sure ev-eryone was getting the right present. But then evolution would kick in. DNA would grab you by the ear and say, “Is that all you got?” It wasn’t. Dumb stuff was always encouraged by cousins; the dumber the better. So we’d plant a coffee can over lit firecrackers and sit on it because it felt like you were getting kicked in the butt. Or hold world burping championships (700 in a row was the record). We loved working with cheese – sticking limburger on the manifold of the honeymoon car of a cousin getting married or dropping goat cheese into the mouth of a snoring sister. Food fights were as common as pillow fights. Jumping off the roof onto a tram-poline was usually good for an injury. But we thought we were bullet proof; getting wounded was just part of the gig. Accidents ran rampant, bones were broken, kindred blood was spilled. We thought of it as learning about our limits; our parents thought of it as testing theirs. The only rule in the unwritten cousin code of conduct was don’t tattle. If you snitch on another cousin, you’re dead meat. You might as well just go ahead and eat a handful of worms, ‘cause they’re going to make you do it anyway. As we got older, and motors started coming into the picture, our parents’ nerves
got thinner and thinner. Riding Mopeds with no brakes, sinking boats in thunderstorms, jumping anything on motorcycles – we lived for the moment. That part of our brain which warns of possible consequences was totally underdeveloped. Two of my cousins not yet old enough to drive decided they should get some prac-tice in. So when their parents went out for the evening, they each jumped in a car and steered slowly, and crookedly, in opposite directions – only to meet head-on on the other side of the block. And there was the cousin who climbed in his dad’s sports car, bumped the shift into neutral and coasted down their steep driveway, across the road, up the neighbor’s yard… and into their picture windows. Nice. His standing in the cousin community went way up. Our parents must have been obsessed with geography, because standard questions in the wake of one of our escapades were “What in the world were you thinking?” or “How on earth did you come up with that?” Even if you had a good answer, like “I don’t know, Mom, sometimes your brain just works against you,” it didn’t get you too far. So you paid your penance, did your time, all the while thinking it unfair, because it wasn’t your idea to have kids and stuff happens when cousins are around; it’s their bloodline too, what do you expect? And every once in a while, if you did something really stupen-dously stupid, we could render our parents speechless. That was the ultimate. You’d do hard time: chores forever. But sooner or later you’d bounce back. You can’t keep a good cousin down. Here’s hoping you bring your cousins to the Southwest; there’s nothing like quality family time.
— Joe Haukebo, Publisher
WELCOMEto skicountry
angelfirefun.com
575-377-6555
866-668-7787
Kachina Lodge in Taosand Meetings Center
L ocated 4 blocks from the historic
Taos Plaza, shops, galleries and muse-ums. Our full-service hotel has it all! We in-clude a full hot break-fast. We have a leisure bar/lounge with pool tables, vid-eo games, and coffee shop. Southwestern dining in our restaurant. Outdoor seasonally heated pool, hot tub, and free wi-fi in all areas. Nightly Indian dances May-October. We are near the Taos Casino and Taos Pueblo. Affordable prices that can accommodate any budget. Please call now! You’ll like our friendly service staff.
800.522.4462 575.758.2275 Email: [email protected] www.kachinalodge.com
Rio Hondo Condominiums
T wo, three and four bedroom, two bath
condos. All have fully-equipped kitchens, liv-ing rooms with a wood or gas fireplace, and dining room areas with
views out to the back deck or balcony, most of which overlook the Hondo River against a beautiful Rocky Mountain backdrop. We have the largest and nicest outdoor hot tub on the mountain and a dry sauna to soak and steam under the stars after hiking mountain trails in summer or a long day of skiing or snowboard-ing in winter. All our condos have DISH Satellite TV, free wireless internet, and the best staff on the mountain! Call now or visit our website to plan your perfect vacation in Taos Ski Valley! Summer schedule is flexible.
575.776.2646 800.461.8263 www.riohondocondos.com
PHOTO: GERAINT SMITH
El Pueblo LodgeBest location for best value in town
E l Pueblo Lodge combines South-
west charm with early Taos architecture. All of our guest rooms have complimentary WI-FI and HBO, and many have fireplaces. New Serta® beds, all-new pillows and down com-
forters. We offer a Continental Breakfast each morning and we have a heated, seasonal pool and year-round hot tub for your enjoyment. Fresh baked cookies each afternoon. Pet-friendly rooms are available. New 40-inch flat screen TVs. Three blocks from the historic Taos Plaza and 18 miles from Taos Ski Valley. Taos Pueblo and Taos Mountain Casino are just 2 miles north. Visit our website for information on specials and packages.
575.758.8700 [email protected]
The Historic Taos InnOne of America’s Great Inns
E xperience Southwestern charm and history at The Historic Taos Inn located in the heart of Taos’
historic district. Acclaimed by National Geographic Traveler as “One of America’s Great Inns,” and listed on the National and New Mexico Registers of Histor-ic Places. Choose from 44 unique rooms and suites, most with Pueblo-style fireplaces. Award-winning Doc Martin’s Restaurant (“a legendary restau-rant...” – Bon Appetit), and The Adobe Bar (“The social center of Taos...” – Travel and Leisure) on the premis-es. Great bistro menu, Happy Hour Monday-Friday 4-6 pm. Complimentary live music every night. See our website for current specials on accommodations!
575.758.2233taosinn.com
taosLODGING
13
Y ou have arrived. Sure, there were several
detours and a few wrong turns, and your landing wasn’t exactly what you’d call smooth; but your space cruiser has touched down safely upon a craggy plot of earth. You emerge from your space cruiser, all three of your eyes alight with curiosity, as you scan your surroundings: majestic trees bundled in snow; a clear and shallow stream gurgling in monotone; and in the immediate distance, a powder-capped mountain that reminds you of a sleeping giant stretched supine across the spacious landscape. You adjust your oxygenator, then breathe in deeply: the air is sharp, crisp, cleanly spiked. You stand there, transfixed, recalling the words of your brother which resonate deeply in your twin-hearts: I was lucky to have crash-landed where I did. It was a region full of charm, tradition, natural beauty,
and a palpable mystique. Brother my brother, when you are old enough to fly your own space-cruiser, you must go and experi-ence this place for yourself. Now, the winter of 2012-2013, you have made it, and all we can say is, whether you’re a visitor from far far away, or from the nearer provinces of Dallas, Chicago or New York, northern New Mexico and the southern Rockies remain the alternative to alternatives.
Postcards from the edge I once read a description of angels that characterized them as fierce and sweet. In this res-pect, Taos can lay claim to true angel-dom. With Taos Moun-tain reigning as the geological matriarch, and Taos Pueblo (one of the oldest continu-ously inhabited communities in North America) remaining the area’s tried-and-true “soul,” Taos has been home to count-less generations of Spanish families, and continues to draw a radical mix of “black sheep,” urban refugees, artists and thrill-seekers. Ruggedness of living and attitude runs paral-lel to generosity of spirit and acceptance. A descent into the Gorge, which is cleaved by the Rio Grande River, provides a first-hand glimpse into pre-his-tory and awe-inspiring beauty. Back on “ground level,” there
are a number of celebrations that mark winter-time in Taos: The Lighting of Ledoux (December 8), transforms historic Ledoux Street into a pedestrian hot-spot, with shops and businesses offering food and drink, and bonfires, farolitos and luminarias warm-ing and lighting the way. Las Posadas (December 16-24), the Spanish tradition of re-enacting the story of Joseph and Mary’s nine-night search for lodging, takes place outside the world-renowned Ranchos Church. Christmas Eve at Taos Pueblo means a dazzling interplay of shadow and light, as large bonfires dance and rage, rifle-fire salutes take place on the adobe rooftops, and the Procession of the Virgin binds it all together. Fifteen miles northeast of Taos, Taos Ski Valley, one of the last family-owned ski resorts in North America, re-mains a top-flight winter play-ground with over 1,290 acres of terrain. The ski and snowboard season opens on Thanksgiving
Angel Fire
DurAngo
PAgosA
reD riVer
sAnTA Fe
souTh Fork
TAos
TAos ski VAlley
ourTOWNS
PHOTOS: GERAINT SMITH Continued on page 15
14 SKICOUNTRY 2013
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15www.hawk-media.com
Day, Thursday through Friday to start, then seven days a week beginning December 15. Taos Ski Valley’s beloved brew-ha-ha – the 17th Annual Brew Master’s Festival (December 22) – promises an evening of mug shots and sure hops.
A modern classicIn order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different. – Coco Chanel
Perhaps Miss Chanel’s dictum explains the distinctive ap-peal of Santa Fe, “The City Different.” Priding itself on its unique mix of the traditional and the modern, the nation’s oldest capital continues to be one of the top tourist destina-tions in the U.S. Cross-cultural fusion in the world of food and delicacies is the theme of the Museum of International Folk Art’s new exhibition—New World Cuisine: The Histories of Chocolate, Maté y Mas (Dec-ember 9-January 4). Another “fusion” event is Christmas at the Palace (December 7), as Native, Spanish and Anglo traditions are woven together to form a tapestry of song and storytelling. The beloved new kid on the block—the Sec-ond Annual Winter Fiesta (January 27-February 5)—is a ten-day event showcasing a treasure-trove of art, music, cuisine and shopping. If you want to behold the divine in motion, nearby Pueblos—Picuris, Nambe, Ohkay
Owingeh, Santa Clara—hold their ceremonial dances and celebrations on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
Enchantmenttimes twoTwo of the resort towns—Angel Fire and Red River, which are part of the 110-mile loop known as the Enchanted Circle (also including Taos, Eagle Nest, and Questa) —flaunt laid-back charm and winter-friendly dispositions. Named after the flame-throw-ing sunsets which transform the mountain peaks into pin-nacles of eye-catching beauty, Angel Fire is rated as one of the top family ski areas in the Southern Rockies. To zip … or not to zip? Tube … or not tube? These are ques-tions you can ask yourself as you weigh your pastime options, which include the only zipline in the state, the Polar Coaster (the biggest tubing park in the Southern Rockies), skiing (day and night); snowboard-ing, sleighing, snowblading, horseback riding, ice fishing and more. If you happen to be in the area February 8-10, you’ll have the unique option of planting your fanny in a steel shovel and shuttling high-speed down the mountain to compete in the Angel Fire Shovel Race Championships. Speaking of shovels, back in the day, they, along with pick-axes, were tools of the
trade for prospectors who did their ambitious digging in the gold-mining town of Red River. Nowadays, Silverado, Gold Rush and Lucky Strike refer to the dynamic ski runs that grace the mountain. The ski base is accorded royal treatment, located right in the center of town, and starting on December 31, most Saturday nights will feature torchlight parades and fireworks. Country western legend Michael Martin Murphey is beloved in a town known for its Texas-tinted flair, and he will be performing two special shows at the Mother-lode Saloon: Cowboy Christ-mas Show (December 28-30) and Cowboy New Year’s Eve Ball (December 31).
Favorable elementsNestled within the sprawling San Juan National Forest, and surrounded by the majestic San Juan Mountains, is the mineral-rich oasis known as Pagosa Springs. “Pagoash” is the Southwestern Ute word for “healing waters,” and a soak in the springs means tonic for mind, muscles and spirit. If you want to take to the trails in winter-inspired fashion, cross country skiing, snowshoeing and skate skiing is the way to do it. Reservoir Hill, Pagosa Springs Golf Course, West Fork Nordic Trails, and Coyote Hill Nordic Loops feature groomed trails, free of charge. In Durango, purgatory is a preferred destination and/or
state of existence. The 10,822 foot high ski area Purgatory at Durango Mountain Resort, along with the 8,800 foot Hes-perus Ski area, boasts 35,000 acres of mountain terrain on which skiers and snowboard-ers can make their mark. And when you want to sit back, relax and become a passenger, hitch a ride on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Rail-road, which will be offering a Polar Express sight-seeing trip (November 19-December 28). One of Colorado’s newest towns, and a growing tourist and recreation area, South Fork marks the beginning of the Silver Thread National Scenic Byway. This historic route follows the snake-like Rio Grande to its headwaters in the San Juan Mountains. Amidst nearly two million acres of national forest, South Fork’s winter agenda includes horseback riding, ice fishing, Nordic and downhill skiing, hunting, hiking, snowmobiling and more.
—John Biscello resides in Taos, NM, and is the author of Broken Land: A Brooklyn Tale, and Freeze Tag.
16 SKICOUNTRY 2013
“THE LONE RANGER” – Johnny Depp as Tonto. ©Disney Enterprises, Inc. & Jerry Bruckheimer Inc.
O ur fascination with movies begins when
we are young, and for most never completely disappears. They transport us, they awe us, they inspire us and they linger somewhere in our subcon-scious, much after the final credits have faded. With the dramatic landscapes and seem-ingly unending abundance of light and sky, filmmakers have flocked to New Mexico, just as painters and photographers have. Recent special effects driven hits such as Transformers (2007), Thor (2011) and The Avengers (2012) have brought much publicity to the state as a cinematographer’s dream. The origins of the region’s film-making, though, were much humbler. Generally considered as the first “movie” filmed in the American West, Indian Day School was made by none other than Thomas A. Edison in 1898, when New Mexico was still a territory. The short soundless clip depicts a group of school children in a Pueblo-
“THE LONE RANGER” – Johnny Depp and Armie Hammer. ©Disney Enterprises, Inc. & Jerry Bruckheimer Inc.
style schoolhouse located at Isleta Pueblo, just south of Albuquerque. New Mexico’s untamed and majestic vistas paired with the brave souls who inhabited these wild lands, became the underlying theme for early filmmakers. The famed outlaw
William Henry McCarty Jr., known also as Billy the Kid, would prove to be a perfect subject. The previously unknown gunman gained legitimate notoriety when New Mexico Governor Lew Wallace put a price on his head; the rest was the stuff of legends as well as
movie making history. Billy the Kid (1930) was shot in Gallup; The Left-Handed Gun (1958) was filmed in Santa Fe with Paul Newman taking the lead, and finally Young Guns was shot in Cerrillos in 1988 with Emilio Estevez playing The Kid, this time filmed in full color.
With hundreds of movies filmed in New Mexico, the Western theme has not been replaced, but enhanced and expanded and now encompasses nearly all genres. The counter-culture motorcycle epic Easy Rider (1969) starring Peter Fonda, Dennis Hopper and Jack
Nicholson contained scenes from Taos, and was said to be a generational touchstone. Other generations were touched by the likes of Red Dawn (1984) filmed primarily in Las Vegas and the controversial and violent road trip epic Natural Born Killers (1994) with its infamous wedding scene filmed on the Rio Grand Gorge Bridge near Taos. New Mexico movies truly run the gamut in both genre and quality. Critically acclaimed films such as 21 Grams (2003), No Country for Old Men (2007), and True Grit (2010) continue to impress worldwide audiences; while MacGruber (2010) was but a dud. Certain movies simply needed to be made locally, such as The Milagro Beanfield War (1988), filmed in the quintessential Northern New Mexican community of Truchas. And occasionally there is a selection from one of Hollywood’s most feared
categories – an outstanding book made into a rather poor movie; All the Pretty Horses (2000) nailed that one. The latest movie to be filmed in New Mexico, as well as Colorado, Utah and California is The Lone Ranger. The Disney production stars Armie Hammer
17www.hawk-media.com
disney shootsLONE RANGER
as the Lone Ranger. He is known primarily for his portrayal of both Winklevoss twins in David Fincher’s film The Social Network (2010) which chronicled the creation of Facebook. Hammer is overshadowed by one of modern film’s most successful cinematic trio: actor Johnny Depp, producer Jerry Bruckheimer and director Gore Verbinski. Restrained only by a gargantuan $250 million budget and a rumored release date of June 2013, the phrase “summer blockbuster” comes to mind. Gregor “Gore” Verbinski started his film career with music videos of punk rockers before directing The Mexican (2001), The Ring (2002) and Rango (2011). He also directed the three Pirates of the Caribbean films. Jerry Bruckheimer is un-deniably one of the most successful film producers of all time; his first big hit was the 1983 romantic drama Flash-dance. He made it successfully through the 80s with Beverly Hills Cop (1984) and Top Gun (1986); then survived the next decade with Bad Boys (1995), The Rock (1986), Con Air (1997), Enemy of the State (1998) and Armageddon (1998), before dabbling in television and producing the CSI: Crime Scene Investigation dramas and their spinoffs. TV did not slow Bruckheimer down as he continued to produce blockbusters such as Remember the Titans (2000), Gone in 60 Seconds (2000) Black Hawk Down (2001) and Pearl Harbor (2001) before producing The Pirates of the Caribbean films. John Christopher “Johnny” Depp II may be the most recognizable actor of his
generation. After working in television on the hit 80s series 21 Jump Street, he took several secondary roles in Nightmare on Elm Street (1984) and Platoon (1986) before starring in Tim Burton’s Edward Scissorhands (1990). His extensive film-ography is staggering and includes What’s Eating Gilbert Grape (1993), Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas (1998), Blow (2001), and Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (2005), and many, many others. He stars as Captain Jack Sparrow in The Pirates of the Caribbean films. Depp will now portray Tonto, the Lone Ranger’s Native American sidekick in the upcoming film. Depp was recently adopted by LeDonna Harris, a member of the Comanche Nation during a ceremony in Albuquerque.
He was given the Comanche name of “Mah Woo May,” which means shapes shifter and considers himself to be part Native American. The small mountain com-munity of Angel Fire was stunned for the month of August 2012 as hundreds of staff and tons of equipment set up camp to film scenes for The Lone Ranger. As far as Beatlemania was a real phenomenon and Bieber Fever exists, the Depp Effect transformed rational golfers, bikers and fishermen into awestruck and obsessed fans. The familiar small talk at the post office no longer centered around the monsoon rains and the geese on hole #9, but on the filming of The Lone Ranger. The locals became experts on all things Depp, and Johnny Depp sightings were as common as
seeing marauding prairie dogs evading truck tires. “My cousin said she saw Johnny Depp buying cigs at the Mini Mart last night.” “No way, it must have been his stunt double. I hear Johnny Depp doesn’t smoke.” “You are just plain crazy, Johnny Depp doesn’t have a double … Johnny Depp does ALL his own stunts.” The Lone Ranger was a fictional former Texas Ranger, who wore a mask to disguise his identity and would fight injustice with his companion Tonto in the American West. Whether this revival can be parleyed into cinematic money maker on the other hand, is up to the modern moviegoer to decide.
Michael Johnstone lives and writes in Angel Fire.
“THE LONE RANGER” – Photo: Peter Mountain. ©Disney Enterprises, Inc. & Jerry Bruckheimer Inc.
18 SKICOUNTRY 2013
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• 2 0 M I L E S S O U T H O F TA O S •
SKICOUNTRY 2013
PURGATORYAT DURANGO
ENCHANTEDFOREST XC
RED RIVERSKI AREA
ANGEL FIRERESORT
TAOS SKIVALLEY
SIPAPUSKI RESORT
SKI APACHE
COLORADO
NEW MEXICO
SKI THE SOUTHWEST
Y ou can ride almost anywhere in the world. But
nowhere in the world do you get our magical mix
of Southwestern sun and snow, culture and cuisine,
wildlife and wilderness, art and history. The landscape
is stunning – from high alpine terrain above treeline to a
huge rip in the earth.
Our ski mountains rip – chutes, cliffs, bowls, cruisers,
and in terrain parks – rails, boxes, rainbows, banks.
Treks into the backcountry are beautiful and boss.
Outside our quaint mountain towns you’ll discover
fresh pockets of adventure and feel this winter
completely, utterly alive.
And at day’s end, when your thighs are screaming,
slip into a hot tub or pound a big, honking green chile
cheeseburger. Nothing like it anywhere.
Scan individual QR codes with your Smartphone for
information about each ski area. Map shows
approximate locations. Distances are not to scale.
WOLF CREEKSKI AREA
PagosaSprings
Durango
Chama •
Taos
RedRiver
SouthFork
• Ruidoso
Santa Fe
Albuquerque
20
Eagle Nest
AngelFire
•
PHOTO: SCOTT D.W. SMITH / DMR
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
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22 SKICOUNTRY 2013
Always terrific terrain, a
monster rep for gnarly steeps
and chutes, from hard-core
skiers and new riders too, Taos
Ski Valley is continuing with its
ten-year master plan to build
more facilities, lifts and carve
new runs. A big focus this year
is making the mountain and
facilities more user-friendly to
families and folks just start-
ing out. New this year is the
Pioneer beginner lift, ideal for
first-timers, and the expanded
tubing terrain on Strawberry Hill.
And of course you can still find
that holy grail of epic runs by
hiking to hidden stashes a la the
West Basin, never a shortage of
freeride excitement. TSV’s Ernie
Blake Snowsport School is still
world-class, the terrain park is
deluxe, and a shuttle runs daily
from the Albuquerque airport.
And TSV continues its commit-
ment to keeping it green with
mountain-wide recycling and
energy conservation. Check out
the interactive trail map online.
Back by popular demand,
Angel Fire’s way-fun zipline,
the nation’s highest el-
evation zip, returns for the
winter, zippers flying 20
stories high. Just another
notch in Angel Fire’s belt,
joining downhill riding, cool
terrain parks, cross country
and downhill skiing, tubing,
sleigh rides, snowmobiles,
snowshoeing. On the moun-
tain, C-4, an out-of-bounds
black diamond 15 minutes
out, is also back by popular
demand. And kids in ski
school this year get GPS
TAOS SKI VALLEY
arm band locators for real
time tracking and for check-
ing out stats online later.
Hone up on skills with ski
and board classes. Come
evening, terrain park rides
and snow tubing, torchlight
parades too. The Nordic
Center, at the awesome
Country Club, now has 17
km of groomed trails for visi-
tors and high altitude athletic
training, skaters or classic
style, and snowshoers, even
a sledding hill. Also moon-
light, nature and gourmet
tours. Events online:
ANGEL FIRE RESORT
angelfireresort.com
800-633-7463
skitaos.org
866-968-7386
23www.hawk-media.com
This place just keeps adding
cool stuff. Last year – more
snowmaking, live cams,
chalet improvements, better
terrain park action. This
year – chalet upgrades, new
rental gear, e-commerce
website, snow coach
dinner tours, new snow
cat and more snow guns.
Skiers and riders this year
can buy tickets from the
e-commerce website, print
out the barcode and give
it to the ski techs to scan
and get you geared up.
Or check out the 24-hour
ticket kiosks. Last year’s
evening snowmobile tours
are upgrading to heated
snow coach rides to the Tip
Restaurant for dinner. Ski
and snowboard programs
are available for kids and
adults. After riding, there’s
tubing, evening rail jams and
torchlight parades.
Events on the web:
ENCHANTED FOREST XCGetting on the night trail is
easy stuff at New mexico’s
oldest full-service cross-
country ski and snowshoe
area, Enchanted Forest, a
few miles east of Red River.
Cross Country? Over 33
km (600 acres) of prime
forest groomed 12 foot wide
tracks for traditional skiing
and a wide skate lane for
the freestylers. Snowshoe?
Old growth forests, aspen
groves, wildlife – a cool
nature trek. Warm up with
a snack at the hut where
you can rent the stuff you
need. Group and individual
lessons. Open Nov-March
9 am-4:30 pm. Got a dog?
Bring ‘em on. Five km
of trails are dog-friendly.
Need a night? How about a
mountain yurt? Midweek is
easier to book.
Events on the web:
enchantedforestxc.com
800-966-9381
575-754-6112
RED RIVER SKI AREA
redriverskiarea.com
575-754-2233
24 SKICOUNTRY 2013
Mescalero, New Mexico’s
Ski Apache – the country’s
southernmost ski resort –
offers bumps, bowls, cruis-
ers, a terrain park and the
only slopeside gondola in
the state. Touted as the
best warm-weather powder
capital in North America, Ski
Apache sprawls out under
the 12,000-plus foot peak
of Sierra Blanca. The Snow
Sport Learning Center has
Northern New Mexico’s
oldest ski resort – turning 60
last year – Sipapu started
over 10 years ago a plan to
carve out great tree terrain.
Winding down the mountain,
intertwined with groomed
cruisers, glade skiing is get-
ting bigger and better. These
days, 11 of the resort’s
41 trails are glade runs off
Lift 4, close to Sipapu’s
peck of 9,255 feet. Check
out Wormwood or down
mountain Chopos Trees or
Indecision. President’s Day
weekend, Sipapu sculpts
out of snow and ice its snow
castle playground – two
stories high, tunnels, slides,
stairs, even oldtimers chase
kids around the castle. With
an average of over 300 days
of sunshine, it’s trademark
Southwest sun skiing.
plenty of programs for the
family – kids and adults,
even mixtures of the two
with the popular Mom And
Me and Dad And Me pro-
grams. Or you can kick it on
a trikke or rip down the
tubing hill. Boasting over
300 days of sunshine each
year. You can even take
a break and hit the slot
machines slopeside in The
Lodge. Events online:
SKI APACHE
skiapache.com
575-464-3600
SIPAPU RESORT
sipapunm.com
800-587-2240
25www.hawk-media.com
Purgatory at Durango
Mountain Resort is a unique
blend of roller-coaster
benches and headwalls,
steep tree skiing trails and
wide-open cruisers with
stunning views. In 2008,
Durango Mountain Resort
began a 4-year span of
unprecedented growth in
the resort’s history, adding
Purgatory Lodge, a $50
million investment and new
anchor to the base village.
Over the past few years,
Purgatory expanded expert
terrain by 35% with new
steep, gladed-tree skiing on
the front- and back-side,
more grooming equipment
and enhanced snowmaking.
Known each year for the
most snow in Colorado, last
year Wolf Creek kicked it off
with a 46-inch storm open-
ing its earliest ever, October
8 – a great start ending with
close to 400 inches. And it’s
always magical riding. When
you get this kind of pow,
safety is numero uno. Ava-
lanche control and reduc-
tion is always a key focus;
this year two more Gazex
exploders, one in Horseshoe
Bowl, one on Knife Ridge
– have been added, along
with a new Piston Bully 400
Cat. Raven’s Roost, a new
full-service bar, opens on the
top level of Raven’s Nest, a
cool glass-lined restaurant
serving pizza at the top of
the Raven lift. Also new this
year kick it at the Conti-
nental espresso bar, left of
Treasure chairlift. Group and
private lessons for riders
of all levels and ages. Free
parking and free shuttles.
And like they’ve done for
years, 100 percent of its
energy comes from a wind
power source, winter
and summer.
PHOTO: SCOTT D.W. SMITH / COURTESY DMR
WOLF CREEK SKI AREA
For this winter season,
Durango Mountain Resort
has teamed up with iconic
ski manufacturer, Rossignol,
to provide break-through
technology to skiers. The
Rossignol Experience
Center provides all levels
of skiers, from beginner to
advanced, with the latest
technology in skis from the
Experience line.
Check out events online:
DURANGO MTN. RESORT
skipurg.com
800-525-0892
wolfcreekski.com
970-264-5649
1-800-SKI-WOLF
26 SKICOUNTRY 2013
A veraging 260 inches of snow annually, Purgato-
ry is known for consistent, dry powder from frequent storms, which are followed by sunny, bluebird days, creating perfect conditions for pure alpine nirvana. Purgatory features 1,360 acres of skiable terrain, 88 trails, 10 lifts, five terrain parks and a vertical drop of 2,029 feet. Purgatory at Durango Moun-tain Resort is located in the rugged San Juan Mountains in southwestern Colorado, and 25 miles north of historic down-town Durango. Known as a top, family-friendly resort, Purgatory at Durango Mountain Resort offers terrain for all skiing
and riding abilities as well as a variety of activities for all ages, allowing families to spend quality time together. From scenic horse-drawn sleigh rides right from the base area, to the Snow Coaster Tubing Hill, guided snowshoeing tours, Nordic skiing, to snowmobil-ing and ice climbing, there’s plenty to do. In the base vil-lage, Purgy’s Restaurant offers a special kids menu as well as Creekside Italian Kitchen, which also provides a special child play area and features kid-friendly movies during the holiday season. Purgatory Lodge, a $50 million investment and new anchor to the base village, opened in 2008, offering luxury ski in/ski out accom-modations, private club and game room, day spa, fitness center, outdoor heated pool, and fine-dining restaurant. Over the past few years, Purgatory expanded expert terrain by 35% with new steep, gladed-tree skiing on the front- and back-side, added high-angle grooming equipment, enhanced snowmaking abilities and initi-ated brush clearing from the slopes, making for a better early season ski experience. Purga-tory also built new terrain parks, constructing bigger features including a half pipe.
For the 2012/2013 winter season, Durango Mountain Re-sort has teamed up with iconic ski manufacturer, Rossignol, to provide break-through technol-ogy to skiers. The Rossignol Experience Center provides all levels of skiers, from beginner to advanced, with the latest technology in skis from the Experience line. The Purgatory Ski School has also been trained by Rossignol to incorporate the Experience technology into their lesson programs, thereby minimizing the learning curve and getting skiers out enjoying the entire mountain quicker than ever. Also located at Durango Mountain Resort is the United States’ largest snowcat opera-tor, the San Juan Skiing Com-pany, which taps into 35,000 acres of incredible backcountry skiing and riding. Durango Mountain Resort is the ideal basecamp for experi-encing all that Southwestern Colorado has to offer, includ-ing a vibrant and friendly mountain town with more restaurants per capita than San Francisco, four local craft breweries, galleries, shops and boutiques, museums and more. Steeped in rich history, visitors to the area can take a ride back in time on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Rail-road, or experience Mesa Verde National Park and Chimney Rock National Monument. www.skipurg.com
durangoSKI TOWN
PHOTO: SVEN BRUNSO
27www.hawk-media.com
(888)872-4607 www.durangotrain.com
Cascade Canyon Winter Train November 21, 2012 - May 3, 2013
The Polar ExpressNovember 26-December 28, 2012
New Year’s Day Brunch TrainJanuary 1, 2013
Snowdown Balloon Rally TrainFebruary 2
Visit our Web site for more upcoming events, packages and special off ers!
Cascade Canyon Winter Train November 21, 2012 - May 3, 2013
DSNGRR_SkiCountry.indd 1 11/15/12 10:18 AM
RIO GRANDE INNDuRANGO, CO
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2013
What’s your story?
28 SKICOUNTRY 2013
W ho doesn’t long for water? Especially the
essential luxury of hot water on a cold winter’s day, with snowflakes falling on your face while you soak in an outdoor 103.5-degree pool (my personal favorite temperature). But since I’m a Methodist/hedonist, I prefer to earn my comforts first. Here is my perfect fantasy day: First thing in the morning, the ski patrol drops the gate, opening the awesomely steep tree run called Pierre’s at Taos Ski Valley where I teach. I get to make first tracks in two feet of new powder. Afterwards, I teach a private lesson – gotta work for a living – to a student wanting to ski powder who afterwards leaves me a great tip because, after all, enthusiasm is contagious. Later, I head for the nearest hot springs, which in this case is Ojo Caliente, about 45 minutes from Taos. First things first, though: dinner at their restaurant – I
have a glass of Chianti then settle in for that relaxing massage. After this, I slip like a poached egg into the outdoor mineral pool, feeling magically ten pounds lighter because, after all, water is indeed miraculous, buoying us up materially and metaphorically. I float blissfully and watch the glowing Orion and his followers migrate across the star-drenched sky. It is just another simple New Mexico night, graced by the scent of pine minerals. Embryonically safe and warm, I never wanna come out. They can’t make me. This fantasy is not a lie. You can head to one of the many hot springs right after outdoor fun. I tell my students, who often come for six mornings of ski week lessons, to take a day off – technique be hanged. “Head for the hot springs – get a massage, and you’ll come back renewed,” I say. After they are chilled out and blissed out, they avoid the midweek slump and are reborn. After all, life is more than just technique – I want them to have the larger experience of northern New Mexico’s nature and culture, which after all, are intertwined. So I’ve paired some of my favorite hot spots with some of my favorite cold spots. It’s like pairing Chateaubriand with a bottle of, say, ‘62 Chateau Lafitte-Rothschild. Like I would know. But I do know many of these ski areas and hot springs. Both Nordic and Alpine skiing may be relatively modern but humans have been coming
to the hot springs for millennia. Native Americans held the springs sacred and as legend has it, believed they emerged into this world from such places. Which makes perfect sense. The water, after being held deep in the earth is eventually delivered hot and health-giving, laden with minerals. How well cared for we all are! Europeans too have a long tradition of “taking the waters.” The state often paid for people to travel to the baths to recup-erate from various maladies. The Romans built their first public baths in 12 BC – a good strategy for satisfying the masses and quelling rebellion. Not all hot springs listed here are spa-like and luxury-laden. Some wonderful spots in northern New Mexico and Colorado include some “hippie hot springs,” too. You don’t have to be a hippie to appreciate them, but if you want a massage, you will have to bring your own masseuse. Some are not easy to get to, which is also a part of the charm. Water isn’t guaranteed to arrive between 90 and 130 degrees, which commercial spots do quite predictably. But the value of fresh perspectives from the natural springs is immeasurable. Nature offers surprises, like a canyon wren singing from a cliff at full moonrise. Sometimes the Rio Grande goes wild, for example, reclaiming her own and washing out the warm pools. The many natural springs are untamed and unmaintained, like Manby Hot Springs (also known as Stagecoach Hot Springs) or Black Rock, both along the Rio Grande near Taos. Daytime skies
hot springs & cold spotsTAKING THE WATERS
PHOTO: COURTESY OJO CALIENTE MINERAL SPRINGS & RESORT
29www.hawk-media.com
are just as blue and night stars just as many. Such visits have helped me to press the reset button on my crazy life while waiting or the next miracle to come along – like winning the lottery or getting first tracks on Pierre’s. The real miracle is that such places as these exist at all, elemental and comforting, reminding us that life’s not only worth living, it’s worth celebrating.
OJO CALIENTE Einstein soaked here. It doesn’t take a genius to know that soaking and sunning feel great. Water bubbles up, hot and heady from the various springs: Lithia, iron, soda, and arsenic. One of the country’s oldest hot springs brought others: Cabaza de Vaca, Utes, Comanches and Navajos were drawn here by the water. The Puebloan people established a pueblo, Poseuinge, and people slowly drifted in from all over global tarnation. The 1880s-era bathhouse still stands, but the place has gone upscale to include newer lodging with private pools. In winter the largest public pool is covered. Hiking trails have been expanded, too; take a super scenic hike before taking the waters. Ski areas less than an hour or two by car away include Santa Fe, Taos Ski Valley, Angel Fire, Red River, and Sipapu. Take your ski lift ticket for a discount. TEN THOUSANDWAVESThis Japanese health resort is over the top, even for Santa Fe. There are more
than a hundred therapists on staff – no, not for any mental problems – which will evaporate into the ethers here. The menu of treatments includes everything from aromatherapy and acupuncture to Watsu and too many Zen amenities to mention. Make your reservation, don a kimono, watch the koi swim in gorgeous pool and choose from every combination of inside/outside, cold/hot, public/private that will leave you to meditate on the paradox of Zen decadence. I pray they will add a service (litters, anyone?) to carry loose-as-a-wet-noodle clients back down to the parking lot. I envision the Japanese lanterns lighting my way, my skin glowing from aesthetic treatments. But it’s probably wiser to stay in the romantic and elegant lodging, especially if you’ve just come off the slopes from the nearby Santa Fe Ski Area. Who says you can’t have it all?
PAGOSA SPRINGSFor Norteños, this is an end-of-season ritual to rejuvenate après ski season and to escape mud season. It’s a just-far-enough away destination and the mountains are as gorgeous as it gets. The town of Pagosa Springs is sweet, with friendly cafés, coffee shops, and antique stores. I like to stay in the Springs Resort Hotel at the Springs Resort and Spa post-ski season and take piles of books to read when I’m too wrinkled to cruise the pools. Their names reveal their natures: Waterfall, The Cliff, Lobster Pot, and The Sunset Social Club.
Continued on page 31
Ski TSV, Après at Ojo
After an exhilarating day on the slopes, soak your bones in Ojo’s steamy, soothing hot springs.
Sulfur-free Mineral Springs • Full-service Spa Private Outdoor Pools w/fireplaces
Enchanting Lodging • Restaurant & Wine Bar
Call 505.583.2233or visit ojospa.com
for lodging and spa packages.
20% Off Skier’s Special
Bring your lift ticket or season passfrom any NM Ski Resort and receive 20% off Springs’ entry or lodging.
Valid 7 days a week, excluding holidays through 4/30/12.One discount per lift ticket/pass. Not to be combined with
any other offer. Lodging includes Springs’ access.
ojocaliente
37 miles SW of Taos via paved Rim Road/285.
30 SKICOUNTRY 2013
Step Back Into the 1850s at Taos’ Oldest Museum
Kit Carson Home & Museum
Guided ToursHistoric Gift Shopand Bookstore
575-758-4945113 Kit Carson Rd. Taos, NM 87571
Open Daily Year-Round (except major holidays)Winter Hours: 11 am–4 pm ~ November through February
gROup Rates available
www.KitCarsonHomeandMuseum.com
[email protected] Cities of Gold Road, Pojoque, NM 87506
Hwy 84-285, Pojoaque, NM 12 miles N. of Santa Fe
Simply the best liquor store in NM
Competitive PricesLargest Selection • Friendly Staff
Temperature-Controlled Wine Cellar
OVER 3,500 WiNES • 900 BEERS • 230 VOdkaS222 TEquilaS • 105 SiNGlE MalT SCOTCHES • 136 RuMS
505.455.2219
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retreat to quieter mineral-rich pools. There’s a workout room, snack bar, and a place for small conferences and weddings. The nearby Nordic and alpine ski spot here is Durango Mountain Resort, which used to be called Purgatory, but I think of it as a personal heaven. MOUNT PRINCETON HOT SPRINGSLast fall my partner and I packed heartily for a weekend camping trip to the Colorado Rockies and climbed a good way up one of the myriad “fourteeners,” Mt. Princeton in the Collegiate Range. From 12,000 feet, the blue pools of Mt. Princeton Hot Springs below looked like a string of jewels set in green grass, impossibly luxuriant. I was sore and tired: those pools
beckoned. The next day, the aspens that burst into bright gold flame against lapis skies looked every bit as lovely from the pools as they did from the peaks. Suffice to say that the camping gear never made it out of the truck. This remote and beautiful spot is still not far from Buena Vista and Salida. It lies along the Chalk River, and sponsors a cheerful medley that includes everything from hip weddings, family pools, elegant Sunday brunches and upscale adult spa areas. It’s fun to step out of the hot springs into the creek itself and snuggle into the hot spots between rocks. Monarch Mountain Ski Area is right down the road, not to mention lots of Nordic options.
HIPPIE HOT SPRINGSYou don’t have to be a hippie to enjoy the many non-managed hot springs native to the geologically gifted and Rio Grande-rifted Southwest. Try Manby (aka Stagecoach) or Blackrock near Taos. Some hot springs, like Conundrum outside Aspen, are truly fabulous, but big adventuresome treks. I’ve heard of folks getting stuck there, who were perhaps literally saved by the hot water. Two books to check out: Carl Wambach’s Touring Colorado Hot Springs or Matt Bischoff’s Touring New Mexico Hot Springs. Or check at regional Forest Service and BLM offices for natural sites.
Dr. Michele Potter teaches American Studies at UNM Taos and skiing at Taos Ski Valley.
And as for skiing, nearby Wolf Creek is awesome. Last season they opened in early October.
TRIMBLE HOT SPRINGSTrimble Spa and Natural Hot Springs, has always been part of the town’s lifestyle. And back during the first half of the 20th century, Trimble was a popular dance hall and dude ranch where the likes of Marilyn Monroe and Clark Gable once played. Trimble is sought out by the off-the-beaten-track kind of skiers looking for a savings and a quiet place along the way, but not in the way. My kids used to love this one. What kid wouldn’t? There’s an Olympic-sized outdoor heated swimming pool with plenty space for them to free-range, while you
Durango’s only natural Hot springs,Day spa, & loDging resort
970.247.0111
www.TrimbleHotSprings.com6475 County rd. 203, Durango, Co 81301
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from our cozy guest rooms.
Your secluded mountain sanctuary awaits.
OPEN YEaR ROUNDSwim Passes Available to the Public.
15870 County Road 162 | Nathrop, CO 81236
Call 719.395.2447 for more information.
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GET THERMAL.
Thaw OUT…GEOThERMaL STYLE.Experience the natural wonder of our odorless hot springs. Enjoy
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one of our well-appointed cabins or wake up to magnificent views
from our cozy guest rooms.
Your secluded mountain sanctuary awaits.
OPEN YEaR ROUNDSwim Passes Available to the Public.
15870 County Road 162 | Nathrop, CO 81236
Call 719.395.2447 for more information.
mtprinceton.com
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32 SKICOUNTRY 2013
1 & 2 Bdrm fully-equipped modern cabins with room
to roam on 10 ac. bordered by the San Juan River.
Close to Town: Hot Springs, Wolf Creek, Nat. Forest
888-264-9204 www.firesidecabins.com [email protected]
1600 E Hwy 160 Pagosa Springs CO
SNOWMOBILE TOURSRide with the Pack
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PHOTO: COURTESY WOLF CREEk SNOWMOBILE TOURS
blast into THE BACKCOUNTRY
T he original snowmobiles at the beginning of the 20th
century were more like tractors on tracks: large, cumbersome, powerful, slow machines. They were practical, designed to haul heavy stuff and get around in tough terrain. Today’s sleds are sleek, high-powered and fast, with shocks and comfort features designed more for fun, thrills and zipping around. Northern New Mexico and southern Colorado have hundreds of miles of trails venturing into high altitudes,
vast meadows, and forests. Snowmobile clubs and outfitters groom some trails, but leave others untouched for powder hounds. Carson National Forest has a sprawling trail system around Angel Fire and Taos. Red River riders head to Bobcat Pass, Sawmill, Greenie Peak and Midnight Meadows. Chama riders regularly hit Brazos and Hopewell Lake. Across the border in Colorado, there’s Wolf Creek Pass, Turkey Springs, Plumtaw, Porcupine, East Fork and Nipple
Mountain, and The Rio Grande and San Juan National Forests. Check with the Forest Service for up-to-date trail conditions. Guides have plenty of backcountry expertise and usually offer hourly and full-day tours. Don’t forget the camera. This year, Jan. 25-27, South Fork will host the Colorado Snowmobile Association annual convention. Up to 150 riders from around the state will head into the Rio Grande National Forest on 255 miles of trails. www.southfork.org
34 SKICOUNTRY 2013
riograndecountry.com
Colorado’s Rio Grande CountryColorado’s Rio Grande Country
Rio Grande Country has three wonderfully unique towns waiting for you...South Fork is only 18 miles from the “Most Snow In Colorado at Wolf Creek Ski Area, plus limitless snowmobile &
nordic trails, sledding, ice skating and ice fishing for the whole family. Del Norte is the gateway to history and culture, featuring a new trail system, the Rio Grande County Museum, the
newly restored Historic Windsor Hotel, plus many unique shops. Monte Vista Is home to the annual Crane Festival in March, and the Oldest Professional Rodeo in July. From agriculture to a wildlife refuge, golf course and Drive-In Movie
Theater, there is something for everyone.
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36 SKICOUNTRY 2013
TAOS
BENT STREET CAFE & DELI – 120 Bent Street, Taos, NM. 575-758-5787. A local favorite with menu selec-tions to satisfy every palate. Served in a relaxed atmosphere featuring a year-round heated patio and outdoor terrace. Omelettes, eggs benedict, gourmet french toast, excellent sandwiches, creative salads and homemade soups and desserts. Daily specials, chicken or beef burrito and tamales plates. Veg-etarian & vegan friendly. Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch, and Sunday brunch.
DOC MARTIN’S RES-TAURANT – 1/2 block N of Taos Plaza in The Historic Taos Inn, 575-758-1977. Fresh, fine dining in a casual, historic set-ting. Wine Spectator’s “Best Of” Award Of Excellence winner for 25 consecutive years. Chef “Zippy” White creates innova-tive Regional New American Cuisine using the freshest local ingredients, specializing in organic vegetables, meats
and fish, including favorites like buffalo, elk, trout. Delec-table desserts. Lunch, dinner, Saturday and Sunday brunch. Reservations recommended. docmartinsrestaurant.com
ESKE’S BREW PUB and EATERY – 1/2 block southeast of Taos Plaza, 575-758-1517. Kids’ menu, draft root beer. Great food, fun and handcrafted beers. Open for lunch on weekends and holi-days. Dinner ‘til 9 pm weekdays, 10 pm weekends. Live music. eskesbrewpub.com
THE GORGE – Taos Plaza. Stop by The Gorge and try some of our juicy burgers, hand-shaken margaritas, or fresh oysters. There is some-thing for everyone in your family. Enjoy the Best Happy Hour in Taos while sitting on our patio overlooking the Taos Plaza. We feature TWO happy hours: Monday thru Friday 3-5:30 pm and again 9-10 pm.
GUADALAJARA GRILL – Two locations in Taos: Southside – 1384 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. 575-751-0063. Northside – 822 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. 575-737-0816. “Our secret sauce makes the differ-ence!” Authentic Mexican food in New Mexico. Taos Seafood, Chile Rellenos, Azteca Quesa-dilla, Camarones a la Diabla, Ceviche and so much more. Beer, Wine, Agave Margaritas. Winter hours: Sun 10:30-8:30 pm. Fri-Sat 10:30 to 9 pm. Open 7 days a week. View full menu at guadalajaragrilltaos.com
KTAOS SOLAR CEN-TER – At the base of Taos Mountain, equidistant from Taos Ski Valley and the his-toric town center: the perfect destination for entertainment year-round. In addition to a full bar and restaurant open 7 days a week, KTAOS is home to the largest events venue in North-ern New Mexico. The venue also serves as location to the
region’s most successful radio station KTAOS 101.9 FM and Luna 103.7 FM and features both breathtaking views and sprawling lawns, making it the best place to drink in the view. More at KTAOS.com
TAOS PIZZA OUT BACK – 712 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. 575-758-3112. Voted “Best of Taos: Best Pizza” for 10 consecutive years. We start each morning with organic flour and fresh produce to create our acclaimed hand-rolled pizzas. Our reclaimed adobe abode is the perfect setting for fun, foam and feasting. Enjoy a unique Taos experience where the three local cultures relax and mingle with international travelers. Open daily 11 am. Voted “Best Pizza in Taos” for 2012. taospizzaoutback.com
RICKY’S – Located 2 1/2 blocks south of Taos Plaza at 312 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. 575-758-1156. A locals’ favorite. Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner all day. Great New Mexican and American dishes at family oriented prices. Kid’s menu available. 80% of our dishes available vegetarian. Dine in or take out. Open 7 days from 7 am to 8 pm.
RED RIVER
CAPO’S CORNER – 110 Pioneer Road. 575-754-6297. Voted “Best of Taos” for Pizza! A true ristorante Italiano, Capo’s offers authentic Ital-ian recipes, great prices and superior service. Menu also
DINING
37www.hawk-media.com
at the historic Taos Inn
hAPPY hOuRMon-Fri 4-6 pm
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575 758 2233AdobeBar.com
Premier Live MusicPerfect Margaritas
Famous Nachos
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‘the living room of Taos’x
includes pizza, ribs, steaks, hamburgers and sandwiches. Beer and wine available. Enjoy family fun dining with great views. Carry out, banquet room facilities, pizza to go, kids’ menu. Reservations for large parties available. Hours: 11:30 - 2 pm lunch; 5-9 pm dinner. Espresso, cappuccino starting at 7 am. Free Internet WiFi.
SUNDANCE – High Street at Copper King. 575-754-2971. Same great food, same great service. Celebrating our 39th year. Steaks, salads and excellent Mexican food. Great sopaipillas! Specials include: shrimp fajitas and quesadillas. Frozen wine Margaritas. Reservations welcome. Call for to-go orders. Open nightly at 5 pm.
ANGEL FIRE
ANGEL FIRED PIZZA – Located on the second floor of the Mountain View mall (next to the Lowe’s Valley market). 575-377-2774. Voted “Best of Angel Fire.” We serve specialty pizzas, baked pastas, calzones, and salads all in a fun re-laxed atmosphere. Gluten-free options are available. A wide selection of handcrafted beers and fine wines is available. Dine in or take out. Open Tues-Sun 3-9 pm. Daily Happy Hour.
LEGENDS GRILL – Located on the second floor of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4201. For the whole family. Proudly serving 1/2 lb. Angus beef burgers, sandwiches, salads, pastas, chicken fried steak and more. Great selection of craft beers on tap. Sports on the big screens! Open daily 4 pm-9 pm.
THE COFFEE HOUSE – Located in the lobby of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4234. Specialty coffees and freshly baked goods. Serving daily breakfast and lunch specials, sandwiches, salads & ice cream. Open daily 7 am-5 pm.
HATCHA’S GRILL – 3453 Moun-tain View Blvd., Suite D. 575-377-7011. Welcome home to the best of northern New Mexican cuisine. Three generations of authentic dishes, made fresh daily. From Breakfast Burritos, Grilled Avocado Appe-tizer, and Hatcha’s Smothered Enchiladas to the best Grilled Trout this side of the Pecos. Now offering chiles and salsas in a jar, from our kitchen to yours.
SUNSET GRILL – 10 Five Springs Road across from Chile Express Chairlift. 575-377-6681. Serving breakfast Sat-urday and Sunday from 8 to 10:30 am. Burritos, pancakes, huevos rancheros and eggs benedict are available. Lunch menu includes appetizers, burgers, sandwiches, salads, fish & chips, homemade soups and chicken dishes. Dinner menu includes steaks, pasta, chicken and fish dinners. We have an extensive beer and wine list along with a full bar available.
ELEMENTS at the COUNTRY CLUB – Located on the upper level of the Angel Fire Country Club. 575-377-3055. Open to the public year-round. Enjoy mountain-view fine dining, great ap-petizers, a full bar and wine selection, pri-vate dining rooms and group event spaces. Restaurant is open Tuesday-Saturday 5 pm - 9 pm. Bar is open Tuesday-Saturday 4 pm - close.
CIMARRON
SAINT JAMES HOTEL – 17th and Collison in Cimarron. Reservations recommended. 575-376-2664. Come and enjoy our newly remodeled St. James Hotel! Our broad-based menu is prepared fresh daily. We have the best Mexican food and we are one of the best steak places in the Southwest. Homemade soups and des-serts everyday! Come see our huge 1880s Western bar for a variety of fine wines, beers and cocktails. Breakfast buffet every day for $6.95! Open 7 days a week, 7am - 9 pm.
DINING
38
2012-2013 winter CALENDAR
info Angel Fire 800-446-8117
Chama Valley 800-477-0149
Durango 970-247-3500
Eagle Nest 800-494-9117
Pagosa Springs 800-252-2204
Red River 800-348-6444
dec 1-31 Bargain Days, Red River
7 Tubing Begins, Taos Ski Valley
8-9 Snowshoe Race Clinic & Fun
Run, Enchanted Forest XC
8-9 Nordic Races, Wolf Creek
8 Fun Race, Wolf Creek
8 Lighting of Ledoux St., Taos
9 Ongoing: Telemark Clinics, Wolf
Creek
12 Red River Community
Christmas Dinner
14 Angel Fire opens
15 Ongoing: Men’s Ski/Board
Clinics, Wolf Creek Ski Area
15-16 Angel Fire Holiday Market,
The Lodge, Angel Fire Resort
19-20 Purgatory Locals’ Day,
Durango
21 Apache Star Racecourse
opens, Ski Apache
21-22 Demo Days, Taos Ski Valley
22 17th Annual Brewmasters
Festival, Taos Ski Valley
22 Dummy Gelunde Jump, Torch-
light Parade, Ski Apache
22 Moonlight Ski & Snowshoe
Tour, Enchanted Forest XC
23-24 Ski & Snowboard with Santa,
most ski areas
24 Luminaria Ski Tour, Enchanted
Forest XC Ski Area
24 Christmas Eve Torchlight pa-
rades & fireworks, all ski areas
24 Sipapu Christmas Eve Party
24 Christmas Eve Vespers, Taos
Pueblo and Picuris Pueblos
24-25 Santa visits ski areas
25 Deer or Matachines Dance,
Taos Pueblo (no cameras)
25 Luminaria Ski/Snowshoe Tour,
Enchanted Forest XC
26 Deer Dance, San Juan Pueblo
27 Annual Race Camp, Red River
30 World Snowboard Day, Sipapu
31 New Year’s celebrations &
torchlight parades, all ski areas
Dates subject to change. Check with local chambers for updated calendar information.
jan1 Turtle Dance, Taos Pueblo
1 Polar Bear Plunge, Eagle Nest
1 Ongoing winter Wednesdays:
Tubing, Taos Ski Valley
5 USASA Goldrush Rail Jam
Qualifier, Red River Ski Area
5 Ongoing Saturdays: Rail Jam &
Torchlight Parades, Red River
5-6 Ski Bike Demo Days, Sipapu
5, 12, 26 Fun Race, Wolf Creek
6 Buffalo Dance, Taos Pueblo
6 King’s Day, Picuris Pueblo
6-11 Ski Race Week, Taos Ski Valley
6 Telemark Ski, Wolf Creek
7-13 College Days, Red River
8-9 Outlaw Snow Down, Wolf Creek
8 Ongoing: Senior Ski/Board
Clinic, Wolf Creek
12 Terrain Park Competition, Ski
Apache
12 Wood Ski Festival, Enchanted
Forest XC
14-15 Red River Winter Carnival
19 Winterfest Celebration,
Durango Mountain Resort
19 Vertical Challenge, Ski Apache
19 Ultimate Ski & Snowboard
Challenge, Red River
19 Sisters on Snow Seminar, Ski
Apache
19-20 Winter Carnival, Red River
19-21 Chama Chile Ski Classic
20 Martin Luther King Jr. Race,
Wolf Creek
21-27 Home School Week, Red River
25-27 Big Ol’ Texas Weekend,
Angel Fire
25-27 SheRide Women’s Snow-
boarding Clinic, Durango
26 Moonlight hike & campfire,
Sipapu
26 Moonlight Ski & Snowshoe
Dinner, Enchanted Forest XC
26 Terrain Park Competition, Ski
Apache
26-27 USASA Snowboard Slalom
and Giant Slalom, Red River
26-27 Low O2 Challenge Races,
Enchanted Forest XC
28 United Way Day (lift discounts)
Wolf Creek Ski Area
27 Telemark Ski Week, TSV
30-Feb 2 Winter Wine Festival, TSV
feb2 Terrain Park Competition, Ski
Apache
2-3 Ski Bike Festival, Sipapu
3 Superbowl Party, Legends Grill,
Angel Fire Resort
7-10 Winterfest 2013, Pagosa
Springs, CO
7-12 Mardi Gras in the Mountains,
Red River Ski Area
9 Red Ball Express Fundraiser,
Durango
8-10 Shovel Race Championship,
Angel Fire Resort
12 Fat Tuesday, Taos Ski Valley
12 Mardi Gras Celebration,
Durango
16 GPS Mileage Challenge, Ski
Apache
16 Mogul / Steeps Camp, TSV
16-18 February Fun Fest, Sipapu
18 Ice Fishing Tournament, Eagle
Nest Lake
21-24 IFSA North American Juniors
at Taos Ski Valley
23 Heart to Heart Challenge Fun
Race, Ski Apache
23 Moonlight hike and campfire,
Sipapu
23 Women’s Snowboard Camp,
Taos Ski Valley
TBA SW Snow Kite Fest, Eagle Nest
State Park
23 USASA Red River Rampage
Slopestyle
23 Just Desserts Eat and Ski,
Enchanted Forest XC
23 Fun Race, Wolf Creek Ski
23 Telemark Ski, Wolf Creek
24-30 Fun Race, College Day, Wolf
Creek
27-28 Salomon Extreme Freeride
Championships, Taos Ski Valley
mar2 Telemark Camp, TSV
2, 9, 23 Fun Race, Wolf Creek
9 Spring Beer Festival, TSV
9 Ernie Blake’s Birthday
Celebration, Taos Ski Valley
9 Black Diamond Telemark
Festival, Sipapu
9-10 Hawaiian Days, Sipapu
9-24 Beach Weeks, Red River
16 Moguls / Steeps Camp, Taos
17 10th Annual Cardboard Derby,
Sipapu
17 St. Patrick’s Day Celebration,
Taos Ski Valley
22 Annual Ben Myers Ridge-a-
Thon, Taos Ski Valley
22-24 Dog Days, Enchanted Forest
XC Ski Area
23 Pond Skimming Contest,
Sipapu
24 4th Annual Pond Skim, Red
River Ski Area
24 Closing Day, Angel Fire
24 Closing Day, Red River
29 NM Jr. Freeride Champion-
ships, Taos Ski Valley
30 Telemark Ski, Wolf Creek
31 Easter Egg Scavenger Hunt,
Sipapu
31 Easter Bunny visits Wolf Creek
apr7 Fun Race, Ski & Board Clinics,
Wolf Creek
7 Bud Light Pond Skimming
Championship, TSV
7 Taos Ski Valley Closing Day
7 Wolf Creek Closing Day
Ruidoso 877-784-3676
Santa Fe 800-777-2489
South Fork 800-571-0881
Taos County 800-732-8267
Taos Pueblo 575.758.1028
SHUTERCONSTRUCTION
building fine homes for over 35 years
575.377.6456 ph 575.377.3822 fx
po box 303 angel fire nm 87710
shuterconstruction.com [email protected]
lic #90984