magazine

SUNDAY INDEPENDENT

JUNE ‘09

CONTENTSJUNE 2009

02 SITM June 2009

Be Creative Media Production info@becreative.ie Editor Karen Creed :: karcreed@gmail.com

Design INM Design StudioImages Peter Charmant

Advertising Terri Byrne :: tbyrne@independent.ie :: T: 01 7055420 Repro Independent Newspapers (Ireland) Limited

Published by Independent Newspapers (Ireland) Limited :: 27-32 Talbot Street, Dublin 1

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03 BASQUE APPEALFrom summer festivals to enticing activities along the coast, there are plenty ofattractions to lure you to the Basque Country

04 TRAVEL NEWSIreland’s hidden treasures and our pick of holidays abroad for the summer ahead

06 ACE OF A HOLIDAYIf you are bored of the beach lounger why not book an active break this summer?Karen Creed opted for sporting glory on a tennis holiday in the Algarve

08 FLY AND DRIVE THIS SUMMERA road trip can be an invigorating way to take in several countries in the one holidayas Corinna Ray experienced in Eastern Europe

10 WHERE TO GO….FROM THOSE IN THE KNOWTo holiday like a local, Alex Kennedy finds out what to see and do from those whoknow Dubai, South Africa and Sicily inside out

12 A FOOD LOVER’S SLICE OF ITALYGood food is integral to many people when they go on holiday. Some even touraround in search of the best cuisine as Karen Creed did in Italy

14 TAKE 3 BREAKS IN IRELANDPlanning to holiday at home this summer? We look at three options for families,groups and couples

EDITOR’S NOTEI like a good bargain, and it’s nodifferent when it comes to holi-days. But above all you have tobe realistic. I find that popularholiday destinations in peaktimes often sell so well that theyare never reduced as last minute deals. Don’t missout on a great holiday because you are searching fora lower price that just doesn’t exist. The key togetting a great last minute deal is flexibility, and ifyou want to get the cheaper deals you usually haveto sacrifice being choosy. Everyone has a differentinterpretation of their ideal summer holiday: Forsome it is complete chill out on a beach resort,while others rather a cultural experience insomewhere they have never visited before.Personally I like to combine both, if it’s anywaypossible. Recently I revelled in such a holiday inMorocco, where I enjoyed the sandy shores as muchas haggling in the local souks. My Moroccandirhams went far, from cultural excursions topampering and tipping the kind people who mademy sun holiday all the more enjoyable. Karen Creed, Editor

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June 2009 SITM 03

With the arrival of the San Juancelebrations and the summertime,the regions in the Basque Country

are filled to the brim with festivals whichhave blended with Catholic traditions. A fineexample of these popular traditions is theprocession to the San Juan de Gaztelugatxesanctuary, on the 24th of June, in the Biscayvillage of Bermeo.

A popular walking pilgrimage from thischapel culminates in a flower offering to thestatue of the Virgin, submerged in the depthsof the sea. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is hometo breathtaking views of the Cantabrian Sea,together with the small neighbouring island,Aketxe, which runs from the village of Bakioto Cape Matxitxako, on the Biscay Gulf.

Another celebration held during thefestival period is San Pedro day, on the 29thof June, in the fishing village of Lekeitio, alsoin Biscay. The statue carriers tilt him towardsthe sea in a pendulum movement, “kilin-kala”, in a rite ceremony referring to fishing.Straight afterwards is the “Kaxarranka” dance,which consists of a man dancing on a largechest held up by eight sailors. This is aspectacular and unique dance acclaimed byresidents and visitors.Check out www.bermeokoudala.net and www.learjai.com

A VILLAGE LEGACYTo speak of Gernika is, for some, to speak of amillenary town. If Picasso wanted to report,with his world renowned painting“Guernica”, the German air bombing of thetown in 1973, during the Spanish civil war,the passage of time has converted thepainting and the town itself into a symbol ofthe devastating effects of war and a cry for

FESTIVAL FEVER peace. Peace which the citizens of Gernikahave rooted through the creation of theMuseo Internacional de la Paz (InternationalPeace Museum).

But, above all, Gernika is the cradle for theÁrbol de Gernika (Gernika Tree), a symbol ofthe Basque freedoms, which, perpetuated invarious generations (old trunk, current treeand shoot), symbolises the long history of theBasque population and their institution. Oncearriving at Gernika, it is worth your whiletrying their excellent gastronomy, preparedwith highest quality products such as thefamous Gernika peppers or beans. Amongstthe drinks on offer, txakoli is a must.

Also the most important agriculture, cattleand gastronomy market is held on the lastMonday of October. To round off a visitsteeped in history, the coastal villages ofMundaka and Bermeo are a paradise forsurfing, diving and enjoying the beautifulbeaches dotted with cliffs and woods.For more information visitwww.gernika-lumo.org

EXPLORE MARINE FORESTSThe Basque Country offers the unique habitat for the practice of skin-diving in thiscorner of the Cantabrian Sea. In Biscay, withits eighty kilometres of coast and its numer-ous ports and beaches, offers the visitor thepossibility of enjoying an exciting experienceof skin-diving in extensive sandbanks.

From remains of ships sunken in Muskiz tosubmarine mountain chains in Sopelana, youcan also skin dive in the eastern part fromthe plunged arches and blue waters in Gorlizto the flotsam of Mina Mari, in Matxitxako.For more information visitwww.gipuzkoaturimo.net andwww.divebizkaia.com

THE RHYTHM OF JAZZWith the arrival of summer, Euskadi brimswith festivals, and of the numerous events.The best jazz musicians appear at the Festivalde Jazz de Getxo (Getxo Jazz Festival), theFestival de Jazz de Vitoria-Gazteiz (Vitoria-Gazteiz Jazz Festival) and the JazzaldiaDonostia-San Sebastián (Donostia-SanSebastián Jazzaldia).

The Festival Internacional de Jazz de Getxo(Getxo International Jazz Festival), whichcelebrates its 33rd edition this year, is heldfrom the 1st to the 5th of July in this Biscaycoastal town. The opening day shall see thesinger and pianist Diane Schuur performing,whilst the Cuban Omar Sosa will be playingthe next day.

Vitoria-Gazteiz is another classic in thefestival panorama, and this year the

celebrations shall be held from the 12thuntil the 18th of July. Highlights of the listof international artists are the singer LillianBouté bringing sounds of New Orleans or themythical Wynton Marsalis. Also, a legend ofthe jazz guitar, Pat Metheny will be theFestival’s “resident artist” where he will giveguitar seminars.

This year also commemorates 50 yearssince the death of Billie Holiday. Jazzaldia,which is held from the 22nd until the 26thof July shall provide a programme includingthe four mythical names in Jazz: Thekeyboard legends Hank Jones, AbdullahIbrahim, Randy Weston and Roy Haynes.Further information visitwww.heinekenjazzaldia.comwww.getxo.net andwww.jazzvitoria.com n

From jazz festivals to historic pilgrimages andunderwater delights, there are endless reasons tovisit the Basque Country this summer.

BASQUEAPPEAL

BASQUE INCULTURE ANDADVENTURE

n The traditional dance "Kaxarranka" celebrated on the 29th of June

n Skin diving is popular in the Basque Country

04 SITM June2009

TRAVELNEWS WHAT’S HOT ON THE HOLIDAY SCENE

Tip for good serviceOne of the most frustrating aspects oftravelling abroad is calculating the tippingcustoms in a country. Whenever possible, tipin the local currency unless you're in acountry with close American ties like Mexicoor the Philippines. In parts of Asia and theMiddle East, gift-giving is a more entrenchedpart of the culture than tipping. It is not abad idea to take a few little wrapped giftswith you for concierges and chambermaids.Hotel maids are usually the least paid andleast compensated in the hotel so a smalldaily gratuity is a good way to get moretowels or toiletries.

HASSLE FREEHOLIDAYS

AS GOOD AS IT GETSSouth African gloryStay at Cape Town’s five star Cape RoyaleHotel from an amazing €1295 for sevennights including flights and transfers plustaxes of €295. You could do the best ofSouth Africa tour with Highlights includingCape Town, Garden Route and Safari for 10nights. This is priced from €1295 plus taxesof €290. Or book a Christmas in the sunwith 12 nights in Cape Town for €1795including taxes.For these and other deals visitwww.abbeytravel.ie or call 01 8047100.

Ski for lessWhy not organise yournext ski trip now byavailing of the cheapprices? Prices are as low as

€479 per person withCyrstal Ski to places like Austria,

Italy and Bulgaria. They are alsooffering an early booking discount of

€100 if you book before the 30th of June.Visit www.cyrstalski.ie

Summer cruisingAre you tempted by an Icelandic summercruise? This is an idyllic time to see theglacier splendours of Iceland plus the addedbonus of an overnight in Reykjavik.Departure dates are from Cobh on August15th and from Killybegs on August 17th.The cruise returns to Dublin on August 27th.This is currently on special offer from€1049 – a saving of €850 compared to thenormal fare. Details from your travel agentor direct from Fred Olsen Cruises on 012482833. www.fredolsencruises.co.uk

Reel in a good holidayStena Line is helping customers get toPembrokeshire Fish Week (currently runninguntil the 5th of July) from only €69* for acar and driver from Rosslare to Fishguard.The perk is kids go free*. Thousands ofseafood-lovers will travel to the county forthe 10th birthday of Pembrokeshire FishWeek, with fresh fish and beautiful beachesto be enjoyed.Visit www.stenaline.ie or call 01 204 7777

France for lessIf you're still longing to get away thissummer but haven't yet booked, you may want to consider France. Ifyou take a return ferry crossingwith Brittany Ferries from Corkto Roscoff for travel between the11th and 25th of July, you'llsave up to €350. It takes just 14 hours with a convenientweekend schedule.For more information call 021 427 7801 or visitwww.brittanyferries.ie

The right protectionIf you need travel insurance this summer aEuropean weekend away single trip policy ispriced from €7.99 or great value Europeanannual travel insurance from €21.99. Thereis also great value family cover with twoweeks in Europe for a family from€17.98.Annual worldwide cover from €26.99for an individual or a couple from €42.49.Visit www.blueinsurance.ie

Airport BlissTake the stress out of an early morning flightby checking into an airport hotel. There aresome great deals, even at the four star CarltonHotel Dublin Airport. With room rates fromonly €85, the perk is free parking for guests.Additional features include free broadband,free fitness centre and most importantly acomplimentary shuttle bus to and from the airport.Visit www.carltondublinairport.com

Avoid diarrhoea disasterAlmost half of holidaymakers suffer fromdiarrhoea abroad. Contaminated water, exoticcuisine and drinking more alcohol than usualcan all cause diarrhoea. To avoid having tostay on the loo during your holiday,remember to pack Imodium Instants.Available from your pharmacy It works withyour body to prevent further fluid loss andcan stop diarrhoea in one dose. ImodiumInstants are ideal when you are on the gobecause you can take them without water.For more information visitwww.digestivematters.ie

Coffee on the goCoffee fans can rely on a new rewardsprogramme with a Starbucks Card. It givesholders extra value and benefits wheneverthey use their registered Starbucks Card.Starbucks Card is accepted in participatingStarbucks® coffeehouses all around theworld (United Kingdom, United States,Mexico, Hong Kong, Canada, Australia andThailand), meaning you can enjoy thegreat taste of Starbucks coffee even if youlack the local currency.To become a member register online atwww.starbucks.ie

Italy’s treasuresVisit Verona, Florence, Rome, Assisi andLake Garda and discover romantic,enchanting and spectacular Italy withthe Italian Specialists. This idyllic 14night tour is more attractive than everwith prices from €1799 per person.The next tour is August 15th with directflights from Dublin, Belfast and Cork.Or just enjoy the opera in Verona withprices from €629pp, including flights,bed and breakfast, accommodation and transfers.Visit www.topflight.ie

Lapland TreatIf you are already thinking of the festiveperiod and want to treat the family,Canterbury Travel – Lapland’s leadingspecialist - has a five day magical tour tothis winter wonderland setting. Thisdeparts Dublin on the morning ofDecember 23rd and returns back toDublin on the night of December 27th.Accommodation is provided in hotels,apartments, bungalows and cabins. Asmany of Canterbury’s tours fill quickly,early booking is recommended.Call 01 677 0670 or emailinfo@canterbury-tales.com

June 2009 SITM 05

TRAVELNEWS

Salsa SummerSalsa dancing is hugely popular in allparts of the world from Spain toCuba. Before you head off to adestination brimmingwith salsa clubs, why not take some lessons tolearn the basics? You can do a weekendworkshop, weekly classes or even book a private lesson for a group of friends.For salsa dancing classes check outwww.dancetilyoudrop.netwww.salsango.net or emailinfo@dancetillyoudrop.net

For information on dance holidays around the world visitwww.danceholidays.com/salsa or www.rogaia.com

Hungarian Grand PrixThe Hungaroring track is situated 20kilometres north of Budapest, allowingyou the perfect opportunity to exploreone of the most beautiful cities incentral Europe. Known as the ‘Paris ofcentral Europe’ and ‘the Queen of theDanube’, Cassidy Travel has a threenight package with standard entrancetickets departing Dublin on the 24thJuly 2009.The price per person is €699,taxes of €68pp are additional. Pricesinclude flights, accommodation andtickets to the Grand Prix race andqualifying race. Call 01 8725000 oremail: rsmart@cassidytravel.ie

Editor’sPICK

Disney DelightsMickey’s Magical Party is a star-studdedoccasion featuring new entertainment, anew attraction, and special offers thatrun at Disneyland Resort Paris untilMarch 2010. You can get up to 40% offyour Disney hotel and park tickets, pluskids under seven stay and play freewhen you book with Breakaway.ie.Simply book a classic two night /threeday package to arrive anytime betweenthe 7th of May and 8th pf November.Visit www.breakaway.ie or call 01 607 9966

ALGARVETENNIS

06 SITM June 2009

If you are bored ofthe beach lounger,why not book anactive break thissummer? KarenCreed opted forsporting glory on atennis holiday inthe Algarve.

the basics in a temperamental climate, Iliked the idea of improving my tennis in thesun. I was surprised to discover such a rangeof tennis camps and settings from thefaraway shores of Mauritius to the historicsurroundings of Venice. The holidaysthemselves are as varied as individual tennisstyles. Impressed by the professionalism and reviews of Jonathan Markson, I perusedtheir holiday options. Since I was on arelatively tight budget andspecific time scale,their tennisholiday

in the Algarve ticked all the boxes. Withseveral direct flights from Dublin I couldtake a long weekend and still sign up to fourdays of tennis coaching.

The location of my tennis holiday was inthe charming resort of Luz. The Vila Baiaresort is tucked away at the eastern edge ofthe beach with its own private facilitiesincluding swimming pools, an Italianthemed restaurant, and two perfectlymaintained tennis courts. Our apartmentwas within a stone’s throw of the courts,ensuring no excuses for tardiness eachmorning. With the blue skies and bakingsun beating down on us, we were putthrough our paces from the moment westepped on the court that first morning. Iwas already perspiring after the first lap buthowever high the temperature, a warm upand stretches is a morning ritual before youreach for the racket. Our two coaches Luisand Vasco arrived to the courts with theirhighly regarded reputations in the tenniscircles. We soon realised they had distinctlydifferent teaching practices but those which

The urge to get active kicks inaround the same time everyyear, just as the weatherbrightens up and TV nightsshould be switched to

invigorating outdoor activities. Tennishas always been my favourite fresh

air pastime. But for over a decadenow my tennis racket has

become a dust collector andits owner needs tennis

coaching before goingback to the grassy court.

Rather than re-learn

AN ACE OFA HOLIDAY

also instantly know what weaknesses towork on with each individual. For me it wasmy forehand, for my sister it was herbackhand and for John it was his slam shots.Between the three of us there were manymissed shots but also a random ace or asneaky lobby every now and then. We foundevery excuse for our bad play, the sun beingin our eyes was always the most credibleone. For the first two days I didn’t get toomany shots over the net, but the coachesdidn’t seem to mind. For them it is all aboutadopting a sound technique before gettingany balls over the net.

To ensure we understand where we aregoing wrong they video us and analyse ourright and wrong moves. Surprisingly by dayfour I finally had my forehand mastered.Both Vasco and Luis delivered their promiseto improve our tennis. They also had aninfectious sense of humour and soon wewere challenging Luis to a free meal in hisrestaurant when we played against him.Stephanie came close, winning a bottle ofwine. There were three hours of tennis everymorning with a short break half waythrough for a coffee or a freshly squeezedorange juice. This time out could be yourchance to further discuss your tennistechnique with the coaches or else like usfind out from them some local knowledge.

Vasco recommended we do a tour of the bestsurfing spots along the coast one afternoon,which resulted in us planning a surfingholiday next time we are in Portugal.Another day we drove to a nearby town forwhat is reputed to be the best chicken piripiri in the Algarve. There was also some time for shopping in Alvor while the final afternoon we stayed in Luz, focusingon typical holiday activities – swimming,sunbathing and eating too much ice-cream.

The additional perk of an active holiday isthat you can eat without any sense of guilt.While the Portuguese cuisine is generallyvery healthy, it is the side portions anddesserts that make it all the more delicious.Alloro in Vila Baia is designed to please anypalate but for a more authentic meal wewent to our coach Luis’s restaurant in thetown. It’s not just because of his goodcontacts that Antonio’s is full every night,but probably because the food is top notch.We took Luis’s advice of skipping startersand just having the typical couverts of freshbread with sardine paté and marinatedvegetables. Sticking to tradition we went forthe house special of seafood cataplana. Wedevoured the large pot of lobster, mussels,prawns and clams mixed with rice and adelicious tomato sauce. Full after our maincourses, we managed to breathe in some

space for two desserts - banoffi pie andchocolate mousse.

I was tired on the last day of tennis camp,but there is nothing quite like a few lapsaround the court to forget about anysuffering you may have. The only difficultpart of a tennis holiday is the inevitableaches from muscles you never realised youhad. My legs did start to feel like jelly but anewfound confidence in my tennisencouraged me to give it my all on this final morning. Vasco’s encouraging “onemore time” finally did become one moretime and we had to pack away our racketsand enjoy a farewell drink with our coaches.I know that I will be back to the Algarve for another tennis holiday. I imagine their strong legion of repeat visitors is notjust down to the enjoyment of a tennisholiday, but the combination of excellentcoaching and the most spectacular setting.While many of us are too old to fulfilchildhood dreams of becoming the nextSteffi Graf or Boris Becker, a tennis holidaycertainly makes you feel more confident onthe court.

For information or to book a tennisholiday check out Jonathan MarksonTennis at www. marksontennis.com orcall 00442076032422 n

complemented each other. While Vasco hadthe gentler approach and encouraged us tohave “happy feet” at all times, Luis had anamusing way of enticing us with freebies ifwe played good tennis.

The difference with a tennis holidaycompared to other sports is that it is open toall ages and levels – whether you are aseasoned player or a complete novice. Tennisholidays attract an interesting bunch ofpeople. Groups of middle aged women whoboast confidence in their tennis skirts arethe typical clientele, but many families arealso lured to this idea of combining exercisewith a sun holiday. Since I went at a quiettime there were just two others n my tenniscamp – my sister Stephanie, and John fromYorkshire who was distinctly better at tennisthan us. Once we were on the court at 9ameach morning it was straight into practicingour forehand, backhand and challenging theother players to a game of Champion. Timeflew by and everything started to tone up.The fitness is not just down to the tennis.There are balls to be collected, plenty ofthem. The routine of taking turns practisingwith the coach while others take a breather(or collect balls) is a good one. The coaches

ALGARVETENNIS

15x4

June 2009 SITM 07

FLYDRIVE

08 SITM June 2009

particularly eager to test out the cycling trackaround the lake. It was recently completedallowing cyclists to bike a total of 200kilometres.

We decided to do a loop tour of LakeBalaton with stopovers in a few towns alongthe way. Before driving to the lake we stoppedin Gyor, a beautiful city which is like a stepback in time with its cobblestone streets andBaroque buildings. It is known as the city ofrivers, flowers and festivals – as proven by anabundance of all three. There are also modernstreets for shopping and delightful settings fordining like restaurant La Mareda. Gyor alsohas a strong connection with Ireland with aniconic painting of the Irish Madonna in thelocal church which was brought over to Gyorby an Irish priest. Thousands of people comehere every year to pray at this painting. FromGyor we drove to Heviz which is the northwestern part of Lake Balaton. It is ideal foranyone who wants to get fit and healthy on

wanted to focus on its rugged inland andventure south to its neighbour Bosnia.

Once I arrived into Budapest I hired a carand mapped a rough route of where I wantedto visit in Hungary. As much as I boast aboutmy accurate map reading, I had a SatNav asour back up. Hungary is known for manythings but is probably most famous for itsmusic, paprika and thermal spas. I fell in lovewith all three. A few days was plenty to take inthe long list of Budapest’s attractions. Myfavourites included a cruise on the Danube, amassage on St Margaret’s island, strudel tastingin Reteshaz, buying edible souvenirs in theMarket Hall, people-watching in Café Gerbaudand feeling like sleeping beauty as I wanderedthrough the Castle District at sunrise. Outsidethe capital there are many other beautifulplaces, most notably Lake Balaton. All aroundthe lake there are towns that combine culture,parties and spectacular scenery all summerlong. Given the great weather I was

Ilike the idea of spontaneous travel, andrealised just how effortless it can be on arecent holiday to Eastern Europe. Itseems to be the norm for those who liveon mainland Europe to drive from their

homeland to another country for a longweekend or take in several countries duringtheir summer holiday. For island dwellers thistype of travel can be a novelty, which makes itall the more appealing. The only difficultdecision is choosing what countries to visit.There is Austria with its dramatic mountainsand opera culture, Germany renowned for itsmusic festivals, or Czech Republic with itsfairytale cities and delicious beer. After muchdeliberation I had my chosen three - Hungary,Croatia and Bosnia. It wasn’t just because theyall lie in close proximity, but the strongrecommendations that came with them. I hadbeen to Hungary once before and craved areturn to its vibrant capital. I had also touredaround Croatia’s coastline but this time I

holiday with its array of fitness hotels and theworld’s largest thermal lake. Thousands ofpeople come to Lake Vas to help them withconditions like arthritis or else just for purerelaxation. In nearby Keszthely there arebeautiful sights to be explored, including theFestetics Palace, which holds a fascinatinghistory. Culture is also big in the form of wine-tasting. Whether your preference is red orwhite, you can be sure to drink well inHungary as their homemade wines range fromdelicious Rieslings to full bodied reds. Fromabbeys to family run vineyards, there is winetasting available all over the country. Theoldest part of Lake Balaton is Balatonfuhred.While I expected it to be the most dated town,it was quite the opposite. Swanky hotels andglamorous cafes like Karolina’s flank thelakefront catering to any visitor who likes theirfine wine and sweet treats.

Tihany is an equally pretty town andalthough it is bombarded by tourists in

FLY AND DRIVE INEASTERN EUROPE A road trip can be an invigorating way to take in several countries in the oneholiday as Corinna Ray experienced in Eastern Europe

n Banja Luka in Bosnia is known as the green city

FLYDRIVE

June 2009 SITM 09

summer, it retains some amount ofauthenticity. There are lovely ceramic stores tostroll around and a beautiful abbey on ahilltop which offers a great view of the lakebelow. Tihany is associated with manyfascinating myths and from here you can takeseveral boat tours out on the lake. Since we

were on a tight timescale we opted for thequick ferry crossing to bring us to the otherside of the lake and on the motorway back toBudapest. When we arrived back to the capital,rather than drive to Croatia we took a short 50minute flight to Zagreb and rented a car there.Zagreb is an understated city, and one which

was regarded as a stopover rather than adestination as far back as the days of theOrient Express. That is no longer the case.Zagreb's attractions aren't as famous asDubrovnik’s but it's nonetheless difficult toexperience all the city's delights on anovernight stay. It is not so much glitzy as it isa city of history and culture. The best - and insome cases the only - way to see Zagreb is onfoot, with the occasional tram or bus ride.Almost everything in the city centre ispedestrian-accessible and so are some of thesites further afield. Gornji Grad (Upper Town)is flush with historical buildings and churches,restaurants, boutiques, monuments, andentertainment venues. Donji Grad (LowerTown) is strong on museums, parks, historicarchitecture, and shopping. During the daythere is lots of hustle and bustle with peoplesipping coffee at sidewalk cafes, while in theevenings diners linger over dessert, head fornightclubs to listen to jazz, or stroll thecobblestone streets.

Driving from Zagreb to the Bosnian bordertakes just two hours. Only for the bordercrossing Bosnia feels like an extension ofCroatia, with its pretty stone houses andcharming towns with markets and a series ofchic cafes. Bosnia is of course well known butoften not for the right reasons. The war imagesstill tarnish people’s minds but perhaps it willtake a generation of intrepid tourists to seethis has all the ingredients to become Europe’snext holiday hotspot. The warm andconfident nature of the locals ensures that thebad times are all in the past. While the rest ofthe world is in recession, Bosnia looks like it’s

“Only for the bordercrossing Bosnia feelslike an extension ofCroatia, with its prettystone houses andcharming towns withmarkets and a seriesof chic cafes”

on the verge of something better with newshops and restaurants opening, and beautifulbuildings being restored. Banja Luka is thecountry’s second biggest city and is awonderful place to eat, sightsee and shop.There is a historic side also with a beautifulcastle district overlooking the river. In thesummer this is packed with people spendingtheir day swimming in the river or enjoyingice-cream and coffees in the cafes that line theriverfront.

Then of course there are the prices. InBosnia you really can holiday like royalty witha beer costing €1 and a four star hotel isapproximately €40 for a room per night.There are five star hotels also like KalderaBoutique Hotel with a spa that would give anyIrish one a run for its money. The standards ofservice in restaurants to cafes are higher thanmany other places I have been, with the foodbeing one of the surprising highlights. Theyare generous on meats, fish and big into freshvegetables and salads. Fortunately they alsohave a sweet tooth and there are endlesstemptations for ice-cream and deliciouspastries. Bosnia’s only downside is that itdoesn’t have endless kilometres of coastline toattract holidaymakers, which has undoubtedlyhelped Croatia become a booming holidayresort. However good things come in smallpackages and that is just the case with Bosnia’stwenty kilometres of coastline. Next time Iplan to embark on a road trip starting fromCroatia again and venturing south to visit thehistoric city of Sarajevo, onwards to theseaside resort of Neum before ending my tripon a high note in Dubrovnik. n

• Malev has flights direct from Dublin toBudapest and onwards to Zagreb in Croatiaand Sarajevo in Bosnia Prices include Splitfrom €179 plus tax of €120.40, Zagrebfrom €55 plus tax of €123.40 For full detailsof schedules and to book call 0818 55 55 77or visit www.malev.com

For car rental visit Hertz www.hertz.ie or call 01 6767476

For fly/drive packages to Hungary visit AbbeyTravel www.abbeytravel.ie

DIRECT FROM DUBLIN

n Croatia's enticing coastline

WHERE TO GO…FROM THOSE INTHE KNOW

SOUTH AFRICA Having lived and worked in Cape Town forseven years I have to say is it one of thegreatest gourmet capitals of the world as wellas producing some of the finest wines. CampsBay is South Africa’s premier touristdestination and Blues is one of the landmarkrestaurants where people flock to try theexcellent cuisine and experience thebreathtaking views. Then there is 1800° atCape Royale Hotel. Located in one of CapeTown’s hottest new five star hotels the 1800°is named after the Fahrenheit temperature atwhich its steaks are grilled. Other dishes startfrom an unbelievable €11 a head. To enjoysome of the best wines on offer in SouthAfrica you can visit the famous wineproducing areas of Stellembosch, Franschoek,Paarl, Robertson and Durban-ville. Here youcan enjoy some stunning wines from just €4a bottle. If you get to Durban a major focusfor visitors is the long stretch of beachfrontlined with hotels and restaurants. A keyattraction in this area is the colourfulcostumes of the Zulu men who offer rickshawrides along the seafront. Finally if you wantto give a helping hand while in South Africait is possible to participate in the Niall Mellonhousing project, for even a day.Visit www.wine.co.za or for holidays to South Africa check outwww.gosouthafrica.ie

EEdd FFiinnnn

DUBAI To holiday like a local, Alex Kennedy finds out what to see and where toeat from those who live or have lived in popular holiday destinations.

TEMPTINGBREAKS

10 SITM June 2009

Go to the aquarium in Dubai Mall as ithas penguins and seals and also tothe new Dubai Fountain, which is

coordinated water to music like in theBellagio in Vegas - only bigger. For realbargains there is the Outlet Mall in thedesert or Karama for quality fakes. Thecoolest bar is Buddha Bar in the marina,while the best club is Chi (five rooms withdifferent types of music in each), the bestview is from Neo’s in The Address Hotel andan essential ex-pat hangout is the BarastiBar. Every Friday everyone in Dubai goes toa brunch - all you can eat for three hours. Ilike the one at the Dusit Thani hotel, whichis about 229 dirham. Go to the Wild Wadiwaterpark for the day and then learn to skiin Ski Dubai and finish at the bar over-looking the slopes. Cut price accommodationcan be found at the Golden Sandsapartments in Bur Dubai but the TamaniHotel in the marina has great deals as it’s aMuslim hotel. Everyone goes to The IrishVillage in Garhoud for the craic but FibbersMagees Irish pub is better and does a betterfry up too. Take the newly opened monorailout to The Palm and see the Atlantis Hoteland learn to swim with dolphins. The bestlast night is a dinner cruise on a dhow inDubai Creek, the most fancy is the BateauxDubai but there are cheaper options. Checkout Time Out Dubai website for all details or

www.bluebananaarabia.com foractivities. For holidays to Dubai visit

www.escape2.ie orwww.sunway.ie

SShhaannee MMccGGiinnlleeyy

June 2009 SITM 11

SSAAVVEE SSAAVVEE SSAAVVEEPrices Cheaper then 2008

Dublin 01 4331061 • Belfast 028 9051 180018-19 Duke St - Dublin • Lombard St - BelfastTerms & conditions apply, subject to availability, Book by dates may. apply. Prices per person & based on 4 sharing. Taxes are included.

Children must be under 12 years. American Holidays is fully licensed and bonded by Commission for Aviation Regulation (TO 029).

americanholidays.com Voted ‘Best NorthAmerican TourOperator 2008’

6 YEARS RUNNING!

ORLANDO Econolodge Inn & Suites I Drive7 Nights (2 Adults & 2 child) Ref 544126Travel Nov DIRECT from Dublin PP From ...........................................€489LAS VEGAS NOV 09 OFFERS3 Star Hotel 6 Nights incl return flights Ref 544132 PP From .................€629HOTEL & SHOW PACKAGE6 Nights Treasure Island Hotel & Circus Soleil Mystere ticketsRef 544232 PP From .....................................................................€795NEW YORK Radisson Hotel4 Nights incl return DIRECT flights Aer LingusTravel Sept Ref 544202 PP From ......................................................€689SAN FRANCISCO Union Square Hotel5 Nights incl flights Travel Oct 09 Ref 544207 PP From ........................€719

TEMPTINGBREAKS

CHICAGO With every designer brand imaginable andsuburbs of chic boutiques, purchasing is oneof the most popular pastimes in Chicago.

The Magnificent Mile - voted one of theten best avenues in the world – is flanked byfour shopping malls. If you want to breakaway from traditional brands, sign up for theUrban Shopping Guide, where you will beescorted to Chicago’s fashion treasures buriedin its most vibrant neighborhoods. Your partywill be chauffeured in a luxury vehicle, andprovided shopping itineraries, food, and apersonal guide. And for men who hate toshop, personal styling in Chicago’s mainboutiques will make the process surprisinglyenjoyable. Some stores even offer haircuitsand spa services on site. If Chicago does onething better than shopping, it’s eating out.Everything is here, from street stalls withhotdogs and Italian beef sandwiches to

high end seafoodrestaurants.

Visiting Chicago without trying a slice ofdeep dish pizza is like shopping without avisit to Macy’s. Giordano’s or Malottis aretwo of the most renowned pizzerias in thecity who serve this calorific treat. Tasteauthentic Italian cuisine at Stefani’s or for agourmet treat choose the tasting menu atcelebrity restaurant Charlie Trotter’s orBlackbird, voted the 23rd best restaurant inthe States. Chicago sits within a day’s driveof four of Illinois’s near neighbours –Indiana, Ohio, Michigan, and Wisconsin.The northbound drive is lovely, skirting theshore and heading up through lakesidecommunities into forested country. Themain out-of-town trip, however, is the lakeitself. Lake Michigan is one of the five GreatLakes of North America and regular cruisesdepart from Navy Pier (www.chicagotours.us).For holidays to Chicago visitwww.americanholidays.ie

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SICILY I would recommend anyone coming to Sicilyto visit Taormina and than head onwards toIsole Eolie. The most romantic islands arePanarea, Stromboli and Salina but you can doa tour of all the islands if you have the time.There are special boats that organise day tripsto the different islands. I did Panarea andStromboli in one day, but I think it is nice tostay the night in Panarea or Stromboli andmaybe take a day trip to visit Vulcano (thebiggest island). Alicudi and Filicudi are themore wild and authentic islands. Noto isworth a visit in the southeast of Sicily andmany people visit Lido di Noto, a beautifulbeach with a tropical sea. There are bars andtwo little restaurants directly on the beach,the best one is Lido Azzurro which servessalads, fried fish, pizza and other localspecialties. In the same place you can rent adeckchair and beach umbrella. In Siracusa thebest area is the old part: Ortigia has plenty ofrestaurants and bars and many have a nicesea view near Fonte Aretusa. Siracusa isfamous for pasta with fish (Spaghetti allo

scoglio). Near Taormina you can visitAcireale, Acicastello and Acitrezza, or spend aday visiting Ragusa Ibla in the south and thebeautiful beaches of Modica and Marzamemi.In Catania check out the best fish restaurant,Osteria Antica Marina (Via Pardo 29). It is very popular so it is best to reserve a table beforehand.

In the West coast there is Trapani, Erice andthe beautiful beaches of San Vito Lo Capo andRiserva dello Zingaro. From Trapani it ispossible to take a boat and go to Favignanaisland and Marettimo, both are very famousfor the blue sea and the water is like theCaribbean. The south of Sicily is famous forAgrigento and the Temple Valley andSelinunte - a Greek archeological site. Eatingin Sicily should include some cassata andgranita(mandorla, pistacchio, caffè, gelsi). Fordinner try pasta con le sarde, pasta allaNorma (with aubergine and ricotta cheese)and Scacce which is similar to a pizza.For holidays to Sicily visitwww.topflight.ie

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who has a home here. We stayed at AlbergoTerminus (www.albergoterminus.com) whichsits pretty on Lake Como, boasting incredibleviews over the lake and beyond. The hotelreflects an old world charm combined withcontemporary facilities. The bedrooms aredecadent in design while the friendly staffare helpful when it comes to deciding whereto eat and tours to take. Risotto alla Milaneseand seafood are both worth ordering in thispart of the country and also the vastselection of regional cheese. For an eveningto remember we took a boat tour on the lakefollowed by a candlelit dinner near thepromenade.

Our next port of call was a city that Ibelieve is under-rated. Turin is best knownfor its Fiat factory. However the taste andvariety of local dishes make a good case forthe city being the country’s food capital.

A TASTEOF TRAVEL

12 SITM June 2009

advantage of rounding up my favouriteplaces. Known for its fashion both on andoff the road, driving in Italy puts a wholenew take on the typical Sunday drive. Themotorways here compare to a competitivecatwalk show with everyone out to overtakeyou in their flash Ferrari or Bugatti. TheItalians are leaders of car design and evenwith our reliable Fiat we were able to keepour costs low and still drive in comfort. Aftercollecting our car in Milan Airport we set upour reliable GPS to direct us to our first portof call – the world’s only floating city.

Venice is not my favourite place in theworld but it leaves a lasting impression. Thereal beauty lies in the labyrinth of streets, thebuildings gleaming with intricate beauty andbridges interlinking different parts of thecity. Hotels in Venice are notoriouslyexpensive but the current climate has forcedeven the swankiest of places to reduce theirprices. Budgeting on transport meant wecould splash out on nice accommodation.Well accustomed to hosting Italy’s elite andHollywood superstars, we revelled in theroyal treatment of the five star Bauer hoteland its prime location. Our bedroom had aview of the water with the gondoliers singingtheir hearts out. Just a short stroll from StMark’s Square, we spent the evenings sipping

prosecco in the hotel’s glamorous B Barbefore finding somewhere interesting to eat.While Venice is beautiful to roam about, Iwas more impressed by Burano, the nearbyisland that is famous for its brightly colouredhouses. Il Gatto Nero is a restaurant on thisisland that is renowned for its seafood andpasta dishes. Our lunch there lasted for hoursand we left with a lingering taste of a dessert(with a secret recipe) that rivalled tiramisu.

From Venice we headed east to theLombardy region. The Italian Lakes are itspride and joy, famous for their stunninglandscapes of pastel-painted waterside townsand villages, luxurious mansions and historicislands. Little wonder this northern corner ofItaly is a favourite haunt of celebrities,alongside romantic couples and families.Lake Como in particular has made its markthanks to the attentions of George Clooney,

Italy is one country I never tire of.Before every visit I am overwhelmed atthe prospect of slipping back into pastawonderland and a content pace of life.A love affair for this country has

blossomed since my first visit to LakeMaggiore ten years ago. Stints of living andworking there quickly followed and now Ireturn at any excuse, be it a food festival or acheap flight. Eager to share this love affairwith my boyfriend, I reeled off theimportance of stepping inside the famousboot, quoting Samuel Johnson:

“A man who has not been to Italy isalways conscious of inferiority, from his not having seen what is expected a manshould see.” Bemused but not convinced,fortunately his love of Italian cuisine was enough for him to agree to a two week holiday.

The difficult part was deciding on whatarea to focus our trip. La dolce vita runsthrough Italian veins whether you're on thesun soaked beaches of Sicily, gliding throughthe lagoons of Venice or shopping for Gucciin Milan. The Mezzogiorno region isincredible in summer but we chose to travelaround the North, where we could indulge inhearty cuisine and the cities awe-inspiringwonders. With a blank itinerary I had the

ITALYON A PLATE

“A man who has not been to Italy is alwaysconscious of inferiority, from his not having seenwhat is expected a man should see”

One mention of Italy conjures up images of pasta, pizza, ice cream and espresso.They are all true and plenty more besides writes Karen Creed.

A TASTEOF TRAVEL

history, art, and sheer grandeur into socompact and charming a place. In the fineweather you can enjoy leisurely strolls alongthe cobblestone streets and enjoy coffee orice-cream at the pretty sidewalk cafés. TheSavoy (www.hotelsavoy.it) is the mostluxurious hotel in the city centre with anenvious setting overlooking the Piazza dellaRepubblica. It is certainly unique in designand character as it features quirky images ofshoes throughout, illustrating the city’sassociation with the fashion industry.Highlights include the fabulous L’Incontrobar which overlooks the piazza and diningon bistecca alla fiorentina and ribollita in thehotel’s authentic Florentine restaurant.

For car hire in Italy visitwww.arguscarhire.ie for the bestdeals. They also arrange carhire throughout Europe andother parts of the world. n

Situated in Italy's Piedmont region, Turin issurrounded by agricultural land and thereis over 160,000 acres of vineyards whichproduce wines such as the Barolo. ThePiedmontese tradition doesn’t just extendto drink. Turin's many fine foods includebagna caoda (an anchovy and garlic sauce)and fritto misto, a mouth-wateringconcoction of fried seafood that featuresfish, squid, crab and cuttlefish. Desserts aresimilarly lavish, with unique white truffles,filed pralines and gianduiotti chocolatesbeing the very definition of guiltypleasures. It’s unlikely that anyone will bereturning home on an empty stomach. Westayed at Townhouse 70(www.townhouse70.it). It is the newestboutique hotel in Turin with all the trendytrimmings that you would expect – retrobedrooms, a cool breakfast bar and a primelocation near the main piazza. While itdoesn’t have a restaurant on site, there arenumerous ones to choose from nearby,including Scui Scia.

Eager to end our trip on a high note, wechose a combination of romance and goodfood in Florence. There is no city in theworld like it. Since you can stroll across theheart of it in less than an hour, it’sincredible how it crams as much

1. Lyon2. San Sebastian3. Montreal

4. Tokyo5. Hong Kong6. Chicago

7. Budapest8. Cape Town9. Istanbul

10. Marrakech

TEN DESTINATIONS FOR FOOD LOVERS

Italy&Sicily

MASSIVE SAVINGFOR JULY 09

Call: 014331057www.crystalitaly.ieOffers shown are based on travel in July and are subjectto availability. Terms and conditions apply.

SICILY2 Star BB Hotel VillaChiaraDept July 2009 • PP From............€499SORRENTO3 Star BB Hotel CapriDept July 2009 • PP From............€499LAKE GARDA2 Star BB Hotel VittoriaBardolinoDept July 2009 • PP From............€6293 Star FB Hotel BrittaniaLake ComoDept July 2009 • PP From............€699

DISCOVERSLOVENIA

Call: 014331057www.crystallakes.ieOffers shown are based on travel in July and are subjectto availability. Terms and conditions apply.

Lakes&Mountains

DISCOVER SLOVENIA OFFERKranjska Gora 3 Star Alpina Hotel HB

1 Jul - PP From Only .................€4998 Jul - PP From Only .................€609LAKE BLED OFFERApartments Bled1 Jul - PP From Only .................€3495 Aug - PP From Only...............€3494 STAR PARK HOTELJULY/AUGUST OFFERS€100pp off brochure price for 7 night stay€130pp off brochure price for 14 night stay

June 2009 SITM 13

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IRELANDBREAKS

Planning to holiday at home this summer? We look at the options for families, groups and couples. From here on in it is on with the soft

bathrobes and down to some serious R&R. Itfeels odd at first staying in your bathrobe allday, but once you see everyone else in theirs, itbecomes the norm. It compares to having alovely pyjama day but in much finersurroundings and with better services on offer.The spa itself is the integral part of Monartoffering all types of treatments and therapies.Couples come here for time out or simply torevel in a few days of pampering. Groups ofwomen, and even men are regulars also, eachhoping to walk away from this idyllic hideawaywith a spring in their step. My favourite part ofthe Spa was the thermal spa experience whichis a two hour trail of hot and cold treatmentsincluding a salt grotto, an aromatherapy steamroom and a caldarium. Feeling cleansed from afacial, and my body relaxed from a massage, Idon’t think I have ever slept as much (or as

well). The setting alone encourages youto catch up on lost rest; a heated

lounger or a cushionedchair on every corner

helps with regular catnaps. The bedrooms alsohave their own signature luxury in the form ofinviting beds and extravagant bathrooms. Forme pampering and indulgent dining go handin hand, but those who want to be healthy ordetox in Monart are also considered. Thebreakfast, lunch and dinner menus cater to thefussiest of palates while the setting will remindyou of your remote surroundings as the duckswaddle about outside and the swans glidethrough the lake. The staff at Monart areextremely helpful in suggesting itineraries oractivities in Monart and also outside theirhaven. There are acres of land to roam aboutand scenic walks to explore.

Embarrassingly I didn’t venture outside thedoor once, but that was because every time Iintended to I was lured back into the Spa forone of their fabulous treatments. Just two daysin Monart proved that I don’t need to ventureto the coastline for a holiday glow. I can get itright here. For information on Monart visitwww.monart.ie or call 053 9238999

Wexford is best known for being thesunniest county of Ireland so itnaturally entices holidaymakers to its

coastline every summer. However away fromthe thriving coastal resorts, the bustling townsand the famous heritage trails lies a retreat thathas its own legion of followers. Monart istucked deep into the countryside and hasbecome a destination in its own right.Designed as a getaway from all the hullabalooof everyday life, it is strictly adults who canrevel in its countryside delights. I believe thisalone is part of its mass appeal. Monart is setamid 119 acres of lush greenery and farm land,with magnificent views of Vinegar Hill, one ofIreland's most historic landmarks. As I steppedinto the entrance of the old house I instantlyforgot about my to-do list and any workconcerns.

If there was ever a place to get seriouslyactive, it has to be Delphi MountainResort. Known primarily for its

adventure and youth holidays, theConnemara adventure centre is an equallygreat escape for an invigorating weekend.Set within 400 acres of majestic forest, itboasts 25 ocean, mountain and forestactivities complemented by luxuryaccommodation, an eco-friendly spa andtantalising cuisine. The location – close toone of the world’s finest surfing beaches,against a stunning backdrop of theMweelrea and 12 Bens mountain ranges –makes it an ideal getaway for those lookingto combine adventure with a generoushelping of R&R. For the outdoors buff, theactivities at Delphi can be somewhat mindboggling. Surfing, kayaking, rock climbing;every tiny part of land and water aroundDelphi is put to good use. Having writtenmy wish list, my weekend at Delphi startedwith catching my first surf break at Crossesbeach, followed by a lesson in raft makingbefore combating my fear of abseiling.Fortunately for slightly nervousadventurers, instructors make even themost challenging activities seem possible,whatever your age or standard. Best of all,the energy you burn up outdoors entitlesyou to indulge big time. Expect to taste thebest of land and water produce at Delphi’srestaurant with delicious lobster and

FOR COUPLES – WEXFORDFOR GROUPS – DELPHI

TAKE 3 BREAKSIN IRELAND

14 SITM June 2009

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IRELANDBREAKS

June 2009 SITM 15

organic lamb. After a day out in the Irishoutdoors, a place of warmth and comfort isappreciated all the more. Accommodation atDelphi ranges from impressive two bedroomsuites with living rooms and large woodenbalconies, to split level junior suites, to largedouble rooms. All are individual cocoons of

comfort, with purposely extra downy quiltsto induce a long sleep. For those who arevisiting Delphi in large groups or on a tightbudget there are also authentic hostel styledorms. Whatever room you choose they areall designed to maximise the breathtakingviews and vistas of the surrounding Conne-mara Mountains. A particular highlight ofDelphi is the on-site Spa. The signaturetreatment is the Delphi Seaweed bathswhich is the ultimate body detox, utilisingorganic locally hand harvested seaweed andmountain spring water. This and other spatreatments – facials, massages, wraps - arecomplemented by an extensive physicalmovement programme including yoga, thichi, and Pilates. Whatever treatment youchoose the natural setting of the Spa allowsyou to be fully immersed in nature letting asense of deep relaxation wash over you.Never have I been encouraged to drink asmuch water as I did that weekend in Delphi.It is pure mountain spring water whichflows direct off the mountain straight intoDelphi. Even if you don’t go there with ahealthy attitude in mind, you will leave with the feel good factor.Call 095 42208 or check outwww.delphimountainresort.com

Taking the family on holiday in Irelandhas finally become affordable. Hotels,tourist attractions and restaurants are all

realising that they need to offer value if theywant people to visit, especially this summer.Kilkenny in particular is showing its familyappeal with package deals and special offers,not to mention a range of new attractions. Thereasons to visit are vast from the parklands tothe castle and so many festivals taking placethroughout the summer. The Kilkenny ArtsFestival is a huge event in August thatshowcases all types of talent from jazz bands todance and other live performances. Childrencan also partake in all sorts of activities whilethey are on holiday in Kilkenny, choosing fromworkshops, sports and summer camps. Whereto stay is not a difficult option given thenumber of guesthouses, holiday homes andhotels throughout the county. The great thingabout a recession is that those who could notjustify staying in a five star hotel during theboom can now stay there for a reasonableprice. An impressive five star hotel set inspectacular surroundings is the Lyrath EstateHotel. Just five minutes drive away fromKilkenny, you can see that Lyrath is acombination of contemporary hotel designwith the elegance of its original 17th centuryhouse. With all types of amenities imaginableunder one roof, it ticks the boxes for familieswith both teens and toddlers. There arespacious bedrooms, 170 acres of matureparkland to roam about and even a privatecinema. There is a choice of two restaurantswith a fine dining option and a more casualThai restaurant which serves all the Asianfavourites. If it is raining, there is no need todespair as children can go to the privatecinema, choose their movie and sit down towatch it with popcorn. Or there is a Wii roomwhere they can pass a few hours playinggames. There is also the option to take a boat

FOR FAMILIES – KILKENNY

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trip on the lake or swim in the 17metre infinitypool. Knowing how to coax kids to bed,cookies and milk can be sent up to thebedroom as night time treats. Adults areequally well looked after at Lyrath with theOasis Spa being the most enticing facility. Itboasts an enviable list of treatments and sometherapists who have trained in the mostreputable Spas in the world. You could easilypass a full day here. The bedrooms reflect thelavish style of the hotel with queen size beds,large marble bathrooms and flat screen TV’s inthe bedroom. Some of the rooms havebalconies with views over the original gardens.

For a real treat there is the penthouse that islarger than a typical apartment and kitted outwith so many extras that make it difficult toleave. For night time entertainment we didn’teven have to venture outside the hotel as thereis a cocktail bar, often with live music. This barhas a spacious smoking area also and attractsmost of its guests for at least a nightcap or two.If you do want to venture into Kilkenny citythere is a courtesy car to bring you down andcollect you to bring you back to lovely Lyrath.Now that is what I call good service.To book a break at Lyrath Estate Hotelvisit www.lyrath.com or call 056 7760088

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