Silk Weaving ...on the Jacquard Loom

Create a Pattern1 2Determine Pattern Repeat (must repeat horizontally and vertically/diagonally)

Jacquard Silk Weaving Process

Fill in Point Paper According to Desired Weave Structures

Using multiple weave structures differentiates the texture and color of different parts of the pattern after it is woven. Two opposite patterns create the same weave structure, but the boxes can be filled depending on whether the warp or weft color will be dominant.

Sateen

Gros de Tours (Basket)

Satin (warp face)

4Draw Pattern onto Point Paper3Determine Pattern Repeat (must repeat horizontally and vertically/diagonally)

Satin (weft face)

Punch and Correct Pattern Cards5

Lace Cards6

7Place on Jacquard Loom

The point paper is divided into rows and columns of 8 by 8 squares. The pattern is read horizontally from left to right and each individually box is punched vertically on the pattern card.

Weave8

Examples of Weave Structure Cross Sections

Sateen

Lisere

Fondazione Arte Della Seta LisioFlorence, Italy

The inspirations behind this pattern were the many common motifs in the decorative symbols and architecture of church windows throughout France and Italy. My objective was to blend these symbols together into a traditional pattern, but create a modern feel through color choice.

I created the pattern on Adobe illustrator and Photoshop and then imported the pattern repeat into a weaving program to digitally set and print it onto point paper. I also used this program to fill the point paper with my chosen weave structures. I used four different effects on the pattern: Gros de Tours, 8 Ends Satin(weft face), 4/4 Sateen, and Lisere.

Gros de Tours (Basket)

Satin (weft face)

4/4 Sateen

Lisere

We hand-punched and corrected 302 cards tocreate the pattern.

This machine laces each card together through its lacing holes.

The laced cards were then placed on the cylinder on the loom.

Once the cards were on the loom, I finally started to weave! I tried out different colors of silk and wove colorways to see the combinations of the warp and weft colors with the weave structures of the pattern