Silk and silk-like fabrics are noted for theirdrapeability and luxurious hand (feel). Take thesecharacteristics into consideration when selecting apattern.Silk: Absorbent, comfortable, has excellent dye-

ability and luster, excellent hand anddrapeability and has fair to goodwrinkle resistance.

Polyester: Very durable, good wrinkle resistance,not absorbent and oily stains will bedifficult to remove.

Triacetate: Excellent drapeability and color fastness,good wrinkle resistance but not absor-bent.

Acetate: Excellent drapeability, can wrinkle,weakened by direct sunlight.

Nylon: Very strong, static electricity may be aproblem.

Check fabric bolt labels; all silk and silk-likefabrics are not of the same quality. Hand, texture,country of origin and fiber content are clues toquality. Whatever its origin, fabric should drape welland be of the proper weight for your sewing project.

lf'you choose a lightweight fabric, select a patternthat is not overly fitted. Loose-fitting styles that allowthe fabric to drape are particularly good. Tailored,fitted styles should be used with medium to suit-weight silks and silk-like fabrics.

Try to avoid excessive refitting during sewing.Make alterations on the paper pattern wheneverpossible.

FABRIC PREPARATION

All silk-like fabrics and many 100 percent silkscan be washed. To check for silk washability, plan topurchase 1A: yard or more of fabric.

Steps for testing washability of Silk Fabric

1. Cut off 1/8 yard (additional purchased fabric) offabric.

2. Wash 1/8 yard of silk fabric in lukewarm water,using a mild hand dishwashing soap (Ivory,Lux) or mild shampoo.

3. Rinse twice with cool water. Place fabric be-tween two terry towels to remove excessmoisture. Press with steam iron set onwool/steam until silk is almost dry.

4. Judge washing performance by observing ifthe general appearance has been altered:0 Color-same between washed sample andunwashed fabric?

0 Hand (feel)-same between washed sampleand unwashed fabric?

0 Shrinkage—use steps given under silk-likefabric to check for shrinkage.

5. If fabric is evaluated as washable, wash fabricaccording to directions given in steps 2 and 3.

Steps for checking shrinkage of Silk-Like Fabric

1. Cut a 2-inch fabric swatch square.

2. Wash in lukewarm water usingsoap/detergents for delicate fabrics.

3. Rinse well with lukewarm water.

4. Press square dry with iron set on steam.5. Draw a 2-inch square on a sheet of paper.

6. Place 2-inch fabric sample on drawn 2-inchpaper square.

7. Check for fabric shrinkage. Measure fabricsquare. Subtract fabric square measurementfrom 2-inch square to get total fabricshfinkage.

To figure shrinkage per yard, multiply totalfabric shrinkage by 18. (2-inch fabric = 1/18yard).

Example:If fabric shrinkage is 1/a-inch, to figure theshrinkage per yard of fabric:

1A3” x 18 = 2%” Per Yard

SEWING PREPARATION

Cutting: Place the fabric on your cutting surfacemaking sure none is hanging off theedge. Hanging fabric can cause thematerial to be pulled off grain.

To make sure the fabric doesn’t slip:

0 Place a tissue paper under the fabric. Pin andcut the fabric and tissue together.

0 For sheer and slippery lightweight fabrics,sandwich the material between two layers oftissue paper. Pin and cut as one unit.

0 Place tissue paper between the folded layers ofnubby or heavy weights and cut as one unit.

0 In general, a vinyl tablecloth with flannel back-ing will keep the fabric from crawling.

Follow these guidelines when cutting:

0 Use the NAP layout when pinning patternpieces.

0 Use more pins for sheer and lightweight fabrics.

- Use sharp cutting shears. Cut with long strokes.Short stokes tend to chew up fabric.

0 Keep pattern and fabric flat. Use your free handas a weight, and keep it close to the patternedge being cut.

Marking: Always test your marking method on afabric scrap. Make sure it does notdamage the fabric. Consider: tailor’stack, tailor’s chalk, pinmarking, invisi-ble marking pencils, snip marking andpress marking. If using pinmarking,use only fine or extra fine pins. If usingsnip marking, snip only to a maximumof ‘A-inch into the seam allowance.

Thread Selection: As a general guide, choose athread that is weaker or similar instrength to your fashion fabric.

Thread compatability: Make a testseam. Pull on the thread. The threadshould not break too easily or cut thefabric.

Thread breakage or thread fraying: The threaddiameter is too large for the eye of theneedle. Change to a larger needle orselect thread smaller in diameter.

Pins and Needles

Pins: Use the slimmest (smallest in diameter) andlongest pins. These pins will notdamage the fabrics. Examples:Pleating pins and extra fine pleatingpins.

Pins labeled “Silk Pins” are too thick andrough tipped for most light andmedium weight fabrics.

Hand Needles: Choose 5 to 10 Sharp and BetweenHandsewing Needles; Sharps arelonger than Betweens. Use Between (9to 10) for details requiring smallstitches, such as hemming.

Machine Needles: The machine needle must besmall enough to go through the fabricbut large enough to allow the thread toglide through easily. Choose themachine needle in relation to thethread selected. (The finer the threadthe smaller the size of needle can be).Always begin sewing with a new needleon silk and silk-like fabrics. (Changingneedles insures against marring (suchas picking) the fabric.

Suggested Needle Sizes

U.S. EuropeanLightweight fabric 11/12 70/80Medium weight fabric 12/14 80/90Heavy weight fabric 16 100

Beeswax: Use for handsewing thread to preventtangles and knots. Also adds strength.

Shears: Check for sharpness. To cut accuratelywithout marring the fabric, shears haveto be sharp and without nicks.

Muslin: Use muslin to clean machine needles andblades of shears to prevent the build-up of sericin from silks. Sericin dullsmachine needles and shears.

Tissue Paper: Helps to prevent fabric slippage dur-ing cutting and sewing. When using awide hole throat plate, it prevents fabricfrom being drawn into the machine.

Note: Tissue paper dulls the machineneedle. Be prepared to change needlesseveral times.

Types of Thread100 percent Cotton

Size 60 (lightweight fabric)

Size 50 (heavier fabrics)

Silk

Long Staple Polyester(usually imported)

Polyester and polyester

WHEN CHOOSING A THREAD

Advantages0 Is weaker than fabric so it

cuts the fabric less

0 Breaks under stress (threadbreaks instead of fabric tearing)

0 Sewing machine may stitch moreevenly, minimizing seam puckers

0 Matches qualities of silk fabric0 Very strong0 Ultra smooth thread0 Similar to silk thread in strength,smoothness and diameter

0 Readily available

Disadvantages0 Wears out0 Hard to find (Try

quilting supplyshops)

0 Breaks under stress

0 Very expensive0 Hard to find

0 Hard to find,particularly inrural areas

0 Not as fine incore/cotton wrapped

Interfacing

Select an interfacing which offers gentle support.When in doubt, use lighter weight of interfacing.Sew-in and fusible interfacings are appropriate onmost fabrics. The exception is sheers. Sheer fabricswill need sew-in interfacings, such as silk organza orself fabric.

Use different weights and types of interfacing ifthe pattern styling requires more support in detailareas. To determine which interfacing will work bestwith a particular fabric, make a test sample.

To test fusible interfacing, cut a two-inch squareof interfacing and fashion fabric. Fuse the interfac-ing to the'fashion fabric. Wash and press the sampleif the fabric is washable.

To test sew-in interfacing, place it between twolayers of fabric to simulate garment construction.Sew-in interfacings soften with wear and laundering.Always pretreat sew-in interfacings by following thecare method which will be used on the finishedgarment.

Answer these questions to see if the interfacing iscompatible:

0 Does the interfacing change the characteristicsof the fabric?

0 Is there a color change on the right side of thefabric?Interfacing may have to be applied to the facingand top collar on light colored or lightweightfabrics to prevent this. Or if an underlining isused, attach the interfacing to it.

diameter as otherthreads

0 Is the directional stretch or “give” of the inter-facing appropriate?’Woven interfacings are usually cut on thestraight grain. They give stability and preventstretching in buttonholes, waistbands, placketsand pockets. Nonwoven interfacings stretchequally in all directions or stretch only in thecrosswise direction.

0 Does the interfacing leave a line or noticeableridge where it ends?

Underlinings

An underlining may be necessary to add bodywhen a structured styling is selected. Use alightweight woven fabric for the underlining.

SEWING MACHINE PREPARATION

Machine adjustments

0 Machine pressure—additional pressure may beneeded to keep fabric from sliding. Too muchpressure can mar the fabric. To help fabric feedsmoothly and evenly while sewing, use tissuepaper strips between the feed dog and fabric.

0 Machine tension—use a balanced light threadtension.

0 Stitch length—always make a fabric test sam-ple. Stitch length is influenced by fabric weave,thread and needle selection and the sewingmachine used. As a guide, try 12 to 15 stitchesperinch.

0 Throat plate—use a small throat plate to pre-vent fabric from being drawn into the throatplate. If a small hole throat plate is not available,use tissue paper strips between feed dog andfabric. Another method is to cover the wide holethroat plate with a transparent tape strip. Lowerthe machine needle through the tape to make ahole. Raise machine needle and remove anysticky residue on the needle with denatured(rubbing) alcohol.

Stitching tips

0 Wind thread on bobbin slowly to preventstretching the thread.

0 Pull bobbin and top thread tail between presserfoot and to back of sewing machine.

' 0 Fold tissue paper squares over fabric at thebeginning of seams to help fabric feed evenlythrough machine.

0 Hold the thread tails for the first severalstitches.

0' Hold fabric taut behind and in front of machineneedle. Do not stretch fabric. The fabric shouldfeed through the machine by itself.

0 Omit backstitching at the beginning and endingof seams. Backstitching tends to cause thesefabrics to jam the machine. Instead, backstitchat all % inch seam points where reinforcementis most needed.

0 Use directional stitching to prevent stretching offabric.

0 Remove the fabric from the machine gently toprevent pulls and tears in the fabric.

Seam finishes

Seams on silk and silk-like fabrics have atendency to fray and ravel. Always make a testsample of the seam finish you intend to use.

The most compatible seam finishes are theenclosed seam finishes. Some of these and theiruses include:

0 Turned and Stitched Seam Finish forlightweight fabrics with straight seams. Thisseam finish will have some bulk on the seamedge. Always press this seam finish open usingbrown paper strips between the fashion fabricand seam allowance line.

0 The Hong Kong Seam Finish for medium toheavier weight fabric with straight or curvedseams. Use a light weight lining or underliningfabric to make the 1-inch bias strips to encasethe seam allowance.

0 Commercial Nylon Tricot Knit Seam Finish(“Seams Great” or “Seams Savers”tm) for useon sheers, light to medium weight fabrics withstraight or curved seams.

0 French Seam for Sheers and ravel prone fabricswith straight or only slightly curved seams.

0 Mock French Seam for sheers, light to mediumweight fabrics with straight and curved seams.Armholes may be finished off using thismethod.

Pressing tips

Use a cotton ironing board to control heatretention between fashion fabric and ironingboard cover.

Test for an appropriate iron temperature settingon scrap fabric. A low setting is usuallyrequired. Pure silks press best on wool/steamsetting. Man-made fabrics like a higher settingbordering the wool/cotton setting. Steam isalways used with man-made fabrics.

Press the seam in the direction it was sewn.

Press on either side of the stitching line beforeopening the seam.

Use brown paper strips between the fashionfabric and seam allowance lines to preventseam imprints on the right side of fabric.

Always allow the fabric to cool down beforemoving it from the ironing board.

Use a press cloth when pressing on the rightside of the fabric.

Use a pressing ham for darts, curved seamsand facings.

Use a point presser for pressing open enclosedseams before they are turned (example-collars).

CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES

Collar

Stay stitch neckline areas, back and front toprevent stretching.

Trim under collar down by 1A; inch on sideswithout notches if the pattern calls for using onepattern piece for the upper and under collar.

Trim interfacing diagonally 1/4 inch at the collarpoints before applying interfacing to removebulk. When using fusible interfacing, remove all% inch seam allowance lines to further reducebulk.

Reinforce collar corners or curves with shorterstitches (15 to 18).

Stitch diagonally across the collar point usingone or two reinforcement stitches to makesharper points.

Check collar points to make sure they are thesame shape.

Press collar seams open on a point presser togive the seam a better finish. Press seamclosed, then grade seam.

Stitch collar on neckline from center back toeach side. This prevents the collar from shiftingunevenly to one side. Check collar widths tomake sure they measure the same.

Zipper

One inch seam allowance lines give moresupport for zipper than narrow seams.

Hand baste the zipper seam closed. Machinebasting tends to leave holes in the fabric whenpulled out.

Centered zippers can be taped in place on theclosed zipper seam. The zipper can be eitherhand stitched in place or machine stitched. Tominimize puckering, begin stitching (hand ormachine) at the bottom of the placket on eachside of seam.

Lapped zippers can be machine stitched usingthe conventional method. To minimize puckeringand pulling of fabric, the overlap side of thezipper should be hand stitched, starting at thebottom of the zipper.

Hand stitch a zipper in place using a tinybackstitch with a size 9 to 10 Between handsewing needle. Use the finest thread available(such as silk or lingerie).

To reinforce hand stitched lapped or centeredzippers, machine stitch through each seamallowance and zipper tape.

Buttonholes

Make a test sample of buttonhole, adjustingstitch length, stitch width and tension so thateach is compatible with the fabric.

Try on the garment to determine buttonholeplacement. The first buttonhole should beplaced at the bust level. Mark all otherbuttonholes from the bust level, usually 2 to 3inches apart. Horizontal buttonholes shouldbegin 1/8 inch toward the edge from the centerfront.

Vertical buttonholes should be positioned onthe center front line and 1/8 inch above the actualbutton placement line.

Mark buttonhole lengths, using hand bastingthread, disappearing ink, marking pens andtransparent tape. Always test ink marking pensand transparent tape on a fabric scrap to see ifthere is a change in the fabric’s appearance.

Start with a new machine needle before begin-ning buttonholes. ‘

Check bobbin thread supply before beginningbuttonholes.

Align the back of the machine buttonhole footwith the same edge for placement of eachbuttonhole.

Stitch in the same direction for each buttonhole.

Hold the fabric taut between your forefingers oneither side of the buttonhole while stitching.

Use a 6-inch sewing gauge ruler to checkbuttonhole length and position while sewing.

Place pins through the ends of the sewnbuttonholes before cutting to prevent cuttingthrough stitches.

Use a commercial fabric ravel preventor(example, Fray Check®) between buttonholestitching lines before cutting. Allow fabric todry. This technique seals loose threads aftercutting.

Cut buttonholes using an ExactolTM) knife,buttonhole cutter, sharp embroidery orbuttonhole scissors.

Hemming

Select appropriate hem depth according tofabric weight and garment style. Lightweightsusually look best with narrow hem depths,medium weights with wider hem depths.Straight and A-line garments can take a 1/8 inchand 3-inch hem; for flaired circular and biasstyles, use between 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch hem.Select the hem finish based on the fabric weightand garment style.

Appropriate hem finishes and their uses include:

Machine rolled hem (without attachment): Useon any straight edge.

Machine rolled hem (with attachment): Use onany straight edge.

Topped stitched hem: Use on straight, curvedor bias edges.

Hand rolled hem: Use on curved and biasedges.

Conventional hem: Use on straight and slightlycurved edges.

Use a single strand of thread drawn throughbeeswax for hand stitched hems. Hem with aBetween hand sewing needle, size 9 to 10.

6-84-3M

Use of brand names in this publication doesnot imply endorsement of such or criticism ofsimilar products not mentioned.

Prepared by:Harriet Tutterow Jennings

Extension Clothing SpecialistNorth Carolina State University

HE-277