shown with short booms AVATAR is designed...

version 2.0.2 SCARAB AVATAR Trii Airframe guide www.MultiCopterPilot.com

Lighter is better. Weight is the enemy

Scarab AVATAR is designed for 12 amp ESCs x 3 - 4S 16.8vMotors 775kva1800-2200 4SLiPo 150-190g3S Props 4S 9050Triples

parts list - see web page

shown with short booms

SCARAB is designed to sacrifice the frangible booms in the event of a crash and save the motors,electronics and the mainframe from impact G forces. Thin rounded booms are very streamlined to prop wash and gives longer flight times of 10-15mins. This is a 100% fly-by-wire aircraft - good connections are vital. If a single connector fails or comes loose - your Scarab AVATAR Trii will crash.

boom length AVATAR - decide if you want short or long booms - OK ; our advice - Long booms are more stable and will allow you to add a GoPro to the front - reason is the battery can be then placed at the back with long booms - If you choose short booms - more unstable/more manoeuvreable for experienced pilots - then you can only fly FPV cam up front (and OSD gear if used) - the Rear props will be prevent the LiPo from being moved backwards on short booms.

You can also choose to fly without the engine holder inserts - however when the Aluminium engine lock alone is used - then it will bend in a crash - by combining both the red locks and the inserts (at left)- your coolers will last much longer

ThinCYNO

ThinCYNO

ThinCYNO

ThinCYNO

Composite structure - Bond the two parts of the engine mounts - use baking paper on the work surface - Parts comes pre-press fitted - using a thin-nozzle aplicator apply lines of thin Cyno on each of the 4 sides of each mount and allow to wick-in. Allow to dry fully - do NOT insert the mount while superglue is wet. Wait 24 hrs if you do not have accelerant spray. If using Accerant spray wait 10 mins to allow it to soak fully into the fibres first.

motor bellBELOW


20AWG wire - 2 wires one 1 side - 1 wire on the other sidecare not to pinch the wires

THIN Cyno-acrylic glue (HobbyKing superglue)

tighten the screws - take care to keep the saddle even and the gap identical on both sides - NOTE : The lock compresses down onto the insert

each motor exit wire location is different - study each motor - choose the mounting holes which allow the wires to go almost directly into the boom - use two matching holes in the engine mount by aligning the wires to the shaft side of the key shape - Attach the motor - use Loctite on the screws and also on the shaft lock screw. Slide the carbon boom over the completed assembly including the wires - be sure not to cut the wires on the carbon shaft !

Lock must be used in combination with CF insert - composite structure

balance each motor with a zip tie - test run - should be 100% silky smooth - rotate the zip tie for best results

M3*8

M3*12

ALL 3 x 20awg wires fit inside the carbon boom (right) - Now in v2 - the red lock (below left) secures the holder in combination with the Carbon inserts - Start by soldering the bullet connectors to the long wires on the CarbonBird motors. For CarbonBird use 8mm flathead bolts (not Included)

V2

use a blade or a diamond file to bevel the shaft(below) - this will prevent the wire insulation from being cut when fed over (right)


Make a power distribution lead - 5 wires - 4th wire for the 4S->12v converter lead for FPV 12v (the fifth wire will be for LEDs/supply)

use a piece of heat shrink to hold the wires - then solder so it can fir inside the XT60

use a piece of heat shrink to hold the wires - then solder so it can fit inside the XT60

slide some 5mm heatshrink onto the multi’s before you solder the posts - note that the temporary heat shrink is then removed - before sliding the final 5mm down

finished power lead - the LiPo will have the male connector - shown for clarity here. Some kits - with 10a ESC - will have the JST connectors (mini Deans are being phased out)

Learning the Throttle curve - After setting your Tx to

1095/1500/1905 in the GUI->Tx - do the ESC throttle learning

curve - ESC will learn the 1095-1905 range - To calibrate the ESCs

as a group build a multi Y-harnes - a Y lead (optional to essential) - then connect the actual Rx (see photo at right) , one engine connected to one

of the ESC (to hear the sounds) - set Tx Throttle at full - then connect the

ESC wiring loom to 12v - after two beeps reduce the throttle to idle - 3

or 4 beeps (3S or 4S), then power off by removing 12v (or 16v if using 4S).

If using a Y lead - job is Done.If doing 1 esc at a time - repeat for each ESC - be sure to move the Tx

stick exactly the same distance each time!


TiltrotorsBuild guide VERSION 2.0.1

Assembly - Read document fully first 1. Check the boom/shaft is within tolerance

12.00-12.03mmCarbonF ; 12.00-12.15 Aluminium. (sand down CF if too big)

2. The bearing are held in place by press-fit on the booms achieved in this instance by tap-fitting with soft impact. they can also be removed this way.

3. Place the circular collar (red ring ) onto the shaft and Use a 1.5mm hex driver - secure with 4 M3*3 grub screws using loctite - only a small force is required for the grub screws to be effective. Overtightening the grub screws will damage the shaft.

4. The two bearings are now tapped onto the 12.00mm Ø shaft with a plastic-mallet (left). Be sure to position the bearings in a softjaw aluminium vice with a gap of 12.50mm to support the inner race of the bearing. Tap lightly with the plastic hammer.

5. Separate the bearings by 28.01mm measured on the inside gap between the two bearing

6. Slide the pitch-change-collar arm over the shaft - do NOT secure yet. This is important because when the SCARABGoPro mount (or the tray mount) is inserted inside the shaft the grub screws effectively bite down on this part. If these screws are tightened to early - the insert will not go inside later :(

7. Place the shaft assembly into one of the boom-holder halves and check the alignment (below left) - it’s important to understand that the bearing are ultimately held in place by compression of the two halves pressing down vertically on the outer bearing races flush with the ends of the casing - the inner race of the bearings must NOT touch the innersides of the bearings. There should be a 0.5mm gap on each inside face.

8. The tailboom should be 260mm. De-burr the inside edges of the boom - smooth 45°

9. Align the pitch-change-collar at 0° degrees to vertical and secure with 4 grub screws. Lightly tighten the grub screws - to much force will crush the boom.

plasticmallet only

28.01mm

1.5mm tool

flush

flush

8.

0.5mm gapon inner sides

12.5mm gapin vice soft jaw


10. Link-Rod - Assemble the link rod - always push ball ends thru the open side - marked with a small ring/ridge on the black plastic. Use ball link pliers (Align K10338A)

11. Screw the two ends together until the gap is approx 13mm. Take care not to damage the rod ends. Use your hands/fingers to install.

12. Screw one ball into the outer hole of the Red collar arm

13. There are three tray sizes - 23mmL ; 26mmL(combo kits) and 29mmL which can be ordered for the tilt-rotor to suit various common servos.

14. The suplied servo uses the 26mmL CF plate15. Servo - trim the servo flange with side

cutters to allow the pan heads to sit flush to the servo. Bolt the Servo to the plate with 2 screws and 2 washers/nuts M3. Orientate the servo as shown. so the pivot is furtherest away from the boom

16. Screw one of the ball ends into the centre hole (drill 1.5mm) of servo arm from the bottom side

17. Use a servo tester to set the servo to mid point 1500uSec and attach the servo arm so it sits at 90° when at Rc Tx/Rx midpoint of 1500 uSecs - all angles should be 90°

18. Tighten down the top half of the rotating main assembly (temporarily) with 2 M2*6 screws - then attach the servo plate to the assembly with 2 M3 screws. Remove the M2 screws now.

19. Connect the Servo to PARIS e3 PIN3 Complete the remainer of mid deck electronics steps for SCARAB - then close the two main frames

20. MultiwiiCopter Software 1.9 - In the GUI set the Yaw and MAg to these values

21. There should be no play in the linkage drive train - if assembled correctly. With the rod-link OFF - check the tilt-rotor for smooth movement - the two red collars must be flush. The Servo must NOT collide with anything at full travel - use a servo tester to check clearances.

22. Balance all props dynamically - wishing a prop is balanced just wont cut the mustard - you HAVE to balance it for smooth video !!!

23. Install the tilt-rotor sub-assembly - see the separate sheet for tilt-rotor

open sideclosed side

18.

16.

10.

15.

15.

17.

90° degrees alignment at1500uSec

13mm

For AVATARCut the upper arm offUse side cutters or a Dremel cut - then sand smooth with Dremel sand paper mini-drum


install the velcro strap and insert the finished boom pods nownote - use one M2*6 to hold each in place temporarily

install the 10mm threaded hex nylon spacer under herenote - rear skid was moved back 20mm to here after this photo was taken.

install the metal posts to lower plate with loctite® - leave them fairly loose. slide the red holders down - tighten bottom M2 - apply 1 temporary hold M2 bolt as below to hold everything while you do the installation.

V2 Boomholder - The Centre hole on the top of the rear boom holder, LOCKS the rear boom position - use a 6mm grub screw with Loctite (left and right) - tighten lightly - final tignening after setting the rotation angles on the front booms to level - set rear rotor tilt to 3° CCW thrust (motor tilted 3° CW viewed from the rear of the Avatar - pilot will fine-tune this angle so hover pwr has no residual yaw) - too tight will damage the CF tube inside - the 8 screws hold the boom - the grub screw locks the boom

V2

dry fit all the upper screws - check all the posts are perfect before moving to the next steps - Replace posts with spares (as provided). It is important to NOT force M2 bolts - cross-threading will result in problems later. Use blue Loctite on ALL lower bolts

Install the landing gear as shown use M3 bolts short M3 at front - NOTE: rear gear uses the longer M3*20mm bolts and nylon spaces. thread the bolt thru the spacers - make sure the tail sits high and the nose sits low.


Rear boom brace - M3 Bolt - drill the 2mm frame holes out to 3mm for these two bolts. Carefully screw them into the saddle as shown here using the lightweight plastic half above

Rear boom brace - M3 Bolt - drill the 2mm frame holes out to 3mm for these two bolts. Carefully screw them into the saddle as shown here using the lightweight plastic half above

NOTE : Carbon can block 2.4Ghz RF run your Rx antenna well clear(below) of the carbon plates - do a range check!

e10

e11

e9

CarbonBird® FPV camera - use doublesided tape or similar (not included) The FPV camera wires run back to the Transmitter - set back 5mm - to protect 2.8mm lens from accidently impact with trees (if you ever crash)

Oil - motors - 2 bearing require one drop of oil every 5 hrs - use a syringe needle

FPV Tx - use velcro and zip-tie - mount here away from Rx - use loctite® on the Antenna !

NOTE : SS M2 button heads have small shoulders and can strip with a M1.5 hex - be sure to USE the 1.57mm L HEX provided in the kit - 1/16th “ inch

FPV - connect wires as shown here

3° Tiltapprox


4S -> 12v

FPV camera

this space reserved for OSD or GPS gear (not included)

e11

e11

e10

e9

e11 ESC

e10 ESC

pin3servo

pin3servo

9.3.11.

10 e9 ESC

NOTE : Carbon can block 2.4Ghz RF run your Rx antenna well clear(below) of the carbon plates - do a range check!

carbon conducts current - beware


Boom tilt travel - set your Tx yaw (rudder) travel to limit the travel so the props don’t strike the servos - dont worry it will turn so fast you won’t believe it anyway.

Co f G - set your C of G slightly forward by 10-15mm from geometric centre - Use Velcro to hold the LiPo still - if the LiPo comes undone it can result in an un-necessary Noob crash

90° both arms !


First test PROPS OFF - then if safe add props for Hand Maiden -

1. Hold the craft securely by the core body - above your head - set ACRO mode only.2. DANGER - props can cut ! Use common sense and take safety precautions to suit your experience3. Wear eye protection ! - do a test run to check the PARIS/ESC/Motors - if a motor stutters or

hesitates - cut power - STOP - re-check all wiring - or you will damage the ESCs and the motor itself.4. At 1/3 throttle all Gyro responses are normal - resists tipping in all directions5. Learn the switch position for Auto LEVEL - ON/OFF . MAG on/off and BARO on/off6. All motors MUST start together to show all ESCs are programmed with THROTTLE LEARNING - see

wiki - see carbonBird Motors page on MultiWiiCopter.com website7. All run smoothly up to full power - Same programming - timing setting - this is the time to check all

motors and power systems are good. Should feel balanced. Make sure all modes are OFF - ACRO mode only.

8. ZERO vibration in the frame and props9. Does not want to rotate - yaw - feels balanced10. If anything seems wrong, - then DON’T FLY. Aviation works on 100% perfect - not 98%

Use a Flight simulator AEROSIM RC - with Scarabs - if you never tried RC before !

SCARAB Maiden - after successful hand maiden (above)

1. Choose a field with thick, lush and soft 12” grass - for the first flight. Place down a piece of hard material to act as a level Helipad 1meter diameter approx - if you land in grass you will get a tail rotor strike - Choose a calm day and get well away, 100m - from spectators and by standers - NEVER maiden in front of a crowd of people - Use a hat-cam to record the flight incase you need to study your performance later. Stand behind the SCARAB and take off directly to 2m. Most crashes come from impulsive manouevres carried out before the pilot is orientated. Take your tools with you.

2. set it to ACRO mode - AUTO LEVEL OFF - MAG OFF - BARO OFF3. The objective of a maiden is to4. Trim the craft yaw - setting the rear motor tilt angle start at 3° - then alter so no yaw in the hover5. Check the craft hovers at 50% throttle - not overloaded with extra gear6. Check the handling is smooth - PIDS not set too high - no oscillations - 7. Check the ESCs run cool8. Check the motors run cool9. Check the LiPo runs cool10. AFTER TAKEoff - when your nerves have settled down - check to make sure its not YAWING -

rotating - if it does then alter the twist of the motors - in pairs - to hold true - DONT TRIM on your Tx

11. On the second flight you can do the AUTO LEVEL trimming12. On the third flight you can test the MAG - Only set the MAG to active after you place the craft on the

ground - otherwise it will immediately rotate to the heading it was at when you powered up the CPU and Sirius IMU.

Pilots often get over confident and crash on their 2nd battery - small steps!

Use the Scarab Forums and become part of the online community - make some friends who have the same passion as you do - TriiKopta Pilots are some of the nicest people you will ever meet because they understand the power of the TriiKopta - Fly safe.

Quinton - AlouetteIII

shown with short booms AVATAR is designed...

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