SHOP Stuttgart SS16
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Transcript of SHOP Stuttgart SS16
Page 44
SIGHTS OF
STUTTGART:
our guide reveals
the city’s best
STUTTGART | ШТУТГАРТ | 斯图加特 |
ST
UT
TG
AR
T Lu
xu
ry E
ditio
n S
prin
g/S
um
mer 2
016
شتوتغارت
DEUTSCHE UHRMACHERKUNST.1893
www.christ.de
Emma Cheevers
EDITOR’S LETTER
6
@GlobalBlue
@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
/globalblue
/globalblue
@shopcontent
Welcome to Stuttgart
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you
discover the very best of this dynamic German city. Stuttgart has much
to ofer, as our guide on page 44 reveals. Readers who appreciate world-
class fashion will enjoy our feature on this season’s enticing nature-themed
designs (page 26), and in this issue we also profle prestigious German
brand Hugo Boss, known the world over for its tailoring (page 32).
SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader
that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish
guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international
insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top
global brands you’ll fnd in Stuttgart. For the very latest information,
visit globalblue.com.
Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the
simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand,
and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit
globalblue.com/join.
ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: IS
AA
C B
ON
AN
Austria
Austrian Alps
Barcelona
Belgium
Berlin
Cologne
Copenhagen
捷克共和国
Düsseldorf
Frankfurt
French Riviera
دليل ألانيا
德国指南
Германия
Gothenburg
Hamburg
Hanover
Helsinki Area
Holland
Istanbul
Italy
Japan
Lake Saimaa
Lebanon
London
Madrid
Milan
Munich
Nuremburg
Oslo
Paris
巴黎
Portugal
Prague
Riga
Rome
Seoul
Singapore
Stockholm
Stuttgart
Switzerland
Vienna
Vilnius
In der OUTLETCITY METZINGEN erwartet Sie mit über 70 Luxus- und Premiummarken ein exklusives
Shoppingerlebnis der besonderen Art. Die Heimatstadt von Hugo Boss, nur 30 Minuten von Stuttgart
entfernt, bietet Ihnen ein modernes innerstädtisches Einkaufsfair mit exklusiven Flagship Outlets und
preisgekrönter Architektur. Das Beste: die Preise sind ganzjährig bis zu 70%* reduziert.
10% SHOPPING SPECIAL:
Gegen Vorlage dieser Anzeige erhalten Sie in der Tourist Information Metzingen einen exklusiven
Shopping Pass. Gültig bis 30.06.2016 (Sale-Phasen ausgeschlossen).
* Gegenüber der ehemaligen unverbindlichen Preisempfehlung der Hersteller, soweit es eine solche gibt.
ARMANI . BALLY . BOSS . BURBERRY . COACH . DIANE VON FURSTENBERG . ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA .
ESCADA . GUCCI . HACKETT . JIMMY CHOO . LORO PIANA . MAX MARA . MICHAEL KORS . MIU MIU .
MISSONI . MONCLER . PORSCHE DESIGN . PRADA . TOD'S . TORY BURCH und viele mehr
EXKLUSIVES
SHOPPINGERLEBNIS
Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices.
facebook.com/ca
In the mood for fashion?
visit us: www.canda.com
Stuttgart: Königstraße 47 • Milaneo, Mailänder Platz 7
Вы любите моду?Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых
центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов
в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного.
Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого
рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент
модной женской, мужской и детской одежды –
конечно же лучшего качества и по самым
привлекательным ценам.
هل أنت راغب بآخر الصيحات؟
إذا ستسعد بما تقدمه محلت C&A. ستجدون لدينا أخر صيحات الموضة،
من ملبس السبور إلى قمة الناقة. وماعليكم إل أن تتمتعوا بالتسوق في
محلتنا. لقد عودنا زبائننا الكرام على تشكيلة واسعة من ملبس السيدات
والرجال والطفال ذات النوعية العالية وبأفضل الثمان .
CONTRIBUTORS
10
globalblue.com
ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: EN
RIC
A C
AS
EN
TIN
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Enrica Casentini
Enrica Casentini’s colourful,
creative style made her the
perfect choice to illustrate
this season’s cover for SHOP
Stuttgart, which shows the
Killesberg observation tower
pictured as a dress – the
tower’s summit ofers one
of the best views of the city.
Read more about Stuttgart’s
top attractions in our guide
on page 44. As well as being
an accomplished illustrator,
Enrica is passionate about
ceramics, and she creates
unique pieces with clay and
painted tiles.
Explore our archive of cover
illustrations at
globalblue.com/covers.
Sally McIlhone
As SHOP’s deputy editor,
Sally McIlhone is in touch
with leading brands, creatives
and writers around the world
so she can stay on top of the
latest styles and designs. Sally
has contributed to ShortList,
Stylist and Total Film online,
among other publications.
Mónica R Goya
Journalist and photographer
Mónica R Goya is a senior
picture assistant at SHOP.
When she is not at work she
is involved in supporting the
principles of food justice. She
loves to go hiking and to share
a meal and conversation with
family and friends.
Stephen Doig
SHOP’s former features editor
Stephen Doig is now men’s
style editor and assistant
luxury editor at the Telegraph;
he has also written for Vogue,
GQ and the Financial Times.
His weaknesses include
metallic Lanvin shoes, red
wine and good cheese.
BOGNER STUTTGART Königstrasse 54 bogner.com
12
SHOP FLOOR
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
PU BL I SH I NG
Publisher
James Morris
GL OBA L BLU E GE R M A N Y
Head of commercial Europe/
Latin America
Pier Francesco Nervini
Head of commercial Central Europe
Ronald Christen
Marketing sales manager
Michael Mauerhoff
Marketing specialists
Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko
Sales manager
Pino Dufter
Global Blue Germany,
Vogelsanger Weg 38,
40470 Düsseldorf,
Regional tourist office
Stuttgart Marketing und
Tourismus GmbH,
Rotebühlplatz 25,
70178 Stuttgart,
+49 (0)711 22280,
stuttgart-tourist.de
Chinese editor
Yuan Fang
Associate Chinese editor
Junjie Dou
Chinese contributing editor
Qingya He
Chinese editorial assistants
Yangzi Liang, Manqing Li
Chinese translators
Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi
Russian editor
Anastasia Nemchenok
Russian editorial assistant
Karina Starobina
Russian translators
Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov
Arabic editor
Haneen Malaeb
Dane Consultancy
Commercial editor
Ruairidh Pritchard
Commercial artworking assistant
Samantha Junak
AVP business development manager
Patrice Janet
Art director
Fabio Gervasoni
Junior designer
Kiranjeet Kaur
Content corporate production manager
Steve Brown
Corporate production coordinator
Inga Abramian
Head of digital
Eamonn Leacy
Digital campaign manager
Iwona Wlodarczyk
Digital data analyst
Dian Liu
Digital marketing assistant
Anastasia Budieva
Product manager
Devesh Sankadecha
Developer
Mohammed Hakki
Digital production manager
Andrew Lugton
Production assistants
Olivia Chou, Sammy Ha
Chief executive officer
Jacques Stern
SHOP is published by Global Blue
Group headquarters
Global Blue SA,Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland
Corporate registration number
Deputy editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
Enrica Casentini
Contributors
Stephen Doig, Charlie Neidpath
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Assistant production editor
Katie Muxworthy
Features editor
Hannah Lewis
City guide and lifestyle editor
Isabella Redmond Styles
Fashion editor
Ximena Daneri
Fashion coordinator
Fani Mari
Fashion intern
Danielle De Wolfe
News editor
Rebecca Davies
Assistant news editor
Theresa Harold
Chief sub-editor
Hester Lacey
Copy editors
Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien
Picture editor
Kirsty Andrews
Assistant picture editors
Grace Bird, Katie Byrne
Senior picture assistant
Mónica R Goya
Picture assistant
Charlotte Rogers
Artwork editor
Simon Thompson
Artworking assistants
Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala
Artworking intern
Onur Unaltay
Online managing editor
Kirsty Welsh
Assistant online editor
Marina Nelson
Online writer
Emily Scrivener
Welcome to GALERIA Kaufhof Stuttgart
at Königstrasse
located directly at the main station. Attrac-
tive departments fi lled with elegant fash-
ion, the largest selection of lingerie in
Stuttgart, sports items, children’s goods
and household linen invite you to linger
and browse around. We recommend a vis-
it to our exclusive perfumery, accessories,
choice jewellery watches and high-quality
household goods. Enjoy our top service in
an environment where shopping really a
pleasure is. We accept all major credit
cards. If you come from a country outside
the EU, please enjoy tax-free shopping at
GALERIA Kaufhof. We also offer the ser-
vice City Refund and pay out all your Ger-
man Tax Free Forms.
Please scan the
QR-code with your
smartphone to get
more information
about your GALERIA
store Stuttgart,
Königstrasse.
Free WLAN
in our store!
... makes you fall in
love with Germany
GALERIA Kaufhof...
galeria-kaufhof.deGALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne
14
Above: Boss spring/summer 2016
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CONTENTS
Products
16 Check Out
SHOP selects a standout piece from
Stuttgart this season
17 Products
Key looks for the season, from fashion
and footwear to jewellery and accessories
News
20 Shop Window
One store not to be missed in Stuttgart
22 News
Seasonal updates on shops, services and
new products
Features
26 The Nature Of Fashion
From bold animal motifs to twists on
classic florals, designers are looking to the
natural world for inspiration this season.
It’s the perfect trend for warmer weather,
says Stephen Doig
32 In Focus: Hugo Boss
This prestigious German fashion brand
boasts an impressive heritage – and its
sights remain firmly fixed on the horizons
ahead, as Charlie Neidpath discovers
Experience
38 Stay In Style
SHOP’s guide to the world’s most
exclusive hotels
Guide
44 Maps and guides to the key shopping
areas of Stuttgart
Essentials
53 How To Shop Tax Free
The simple steps to saving money on
your shopping
Translations
54 Русский Перевод
59 美文翻译
65
Souvenir
66 The essential item to bring home
p.32
CHECK OUT
designers, such as Baloji and Happy Socks. Its Core collection presents original accessories with authentic designs; the Crafted collection offers premium-level, high-end, carefully made accessories; and Komono Curated is a series of capsule collections and artist collaborations that explores new frontiers and moves the brand into museums and concerts and onto fashion catwalks. fmKomono Estelle watch, €89.95, Fledge, Bolzstrasse 6, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 2804 1030, komono.com
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 47
LITTLE THINGS, BIG IDEAS
You can’t fail to look chic when you combine black with rose gold, especially when it comes to jewellery or watches – as in this Estelle timepiece with cut-out wrist strap from Belgian watch and sunglasses brand Komono. Komono is the Japanese for ‘little things’ and the brand is dedicated to creating high-quality, well-crafted accessories for the global citizen. Komono frequently collaborates with other international
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
16 | PRODUC TS
globalblue.com
CITY EXPLORER
Summer-appropriate attire and accessories for a day in town
1. Porsche Design backpack,
€1,295, Porsche Design, Breuninger, Marktstrasse 1-3, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 5188 9177, porsche-design.com
2. Benetton shoes, €44.95, United Colours of Benetton, Königstrasse 10C, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 540 9721, benetton.com
3. Tag Heuer watch, €2,300, Juwelier Kutter, Königstrasse 46, 70173 Stuttgart,+49 (0)711 290460, tagheuer.com
4. Diesel jeans, €270, Yeans Halle, Königstrasse 3, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 9334 7420, diesel.com
5. Acqua di Parma Colonia
Essenza fragrance, 180ml, €139, Douglas, Königstrasse 42, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 2599 8000, acquadiparma.com
1
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This summery tone lends itself to many different styles
18 | PRODUC TS
1. Marc Cain turtle neck top,
€199.90, Marc Cain, Calwer Strasse 33, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 223 5270, marc-cain.com
2. Sportmax shoes, €389, Max Mara, Kronprinzstrasse 6, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 9071 2940, sportmax.com
3. Pomellato Nudo pendant, €1,500, Juwelier von Hofen, Calwer Strasse 42, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 296719, pomellato.com
4. Nomos watch, €2,660, Christ, Breuninger, Marktstrasse 1-3, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 2484 7340, nomos-glashuette.com
5. Chanel blusher, €57, Mussler, Am Höhenpark 4, 70192 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 251266, chanel.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
1 3 4
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SHOP | 19
9. Max Mara sunglasses, €195, Max Mara, Kronprinzstrasse 6, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 9071 2940, maxmara.com
10. Airfield skirt, €229, Airfeld, Königstrasse 25, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 5853 9998, airfeld.at
7. CentSeize bag, €649, Maison, Fluxus, Calwer Passage, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 5764 6372, centseize.com
8. De Grisogono ring, €46,700, Juwelier Kutter, Königstrasse 46, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 290460, degrisogono.com
6. Swarovski Distinct bangle, €99, Swarovski, Königstrasse 36, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 120 9580, swarovski.com
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Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
SHOP WINDOW
HOOKED ON DESIGN
When it comes to interior design with an
individual edge, there’s nowhere quite like the
Hook & Eye home furniture store. The first
Hook & Eye concept boutique in Stuttgart was
so successful that the company has opened a
second branch in the city. Unlike the main store
on Hauptstätter Strasse, which specialises in
upcycled mid-century furniture, the shop in
the Gerber mall focuses mostly on accessories
such as pillows, bags and stationery. In addition
to products designed in-house, visitors will also
find coffee table books, kitchenware and home
decoration by popular brands such as Normann
Copenhagen and Pols Potten. th
Hook & Eye, Gerber,
Sophienstrasse 21, 70178 Stuttgart,
+49 (0)711 6744 6661,
hookandeye.de
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 48
22 | NEWS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
IN BRIEF
The Studiotique
concept store on
Schlosserstrasse
stocks a wide
range of
stationery, gifts,
fashion and
jewellery.
Known for its
sophisticated
selection of
designers, the
shop is a
must-visit
RESERVED FOR STUTTGART
The new Reserved store in
Stuttgart, the Polish clothing
brand’s largest branch, covers
nearly 4,000 square metres
and opened just a year after
the company made its debut in
Germany. The three-storey
building houses Reserved’s
collections of menswear,
womenswear, childrenswear
and accessories. Reserved has
become a go-to destination for
basics, and, with over 137,000
products to choose from,
visitors to the Stuttgart
emporium are spoiled for
choice. There are more than
80 Reserved employees on
hand to assist customers,
ensuring a smooth shopping
experience. th
Reserved, Königstrasse 5,
70173 Stuttgart,
+49 (0)711 7223 9290,
reserved.com
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 46
HAPPY THOUGHTS
German luxury jeweller Wellendorff is
spreading an upbeat message this season. The
brand explores happiness in its recent Moments
of Delight collection. Rings are crafted in
yellow or white gold, and the tactile inner
section of the band is easy to turn, encouraging
the wearer to play with the mechanism and lose
themselves in thought. This mindful concept
links to the brand’s previous collection Genuine
Delight, and some favourite pieces have been
reinterpreted for spring. Prices for the rings
pictured above start at €4,900. rd
Wellendorff, Kirchstrasse 6C, 70173 Stuttgart,
+49 (0)711 860 2882, wellendorff.com
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 48
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NATURAL SELECTION
Danish fashion brand
Selected opened a
198-square-metre store in
Stuttgart’s Gerber shopping
centre in October 2015. As
befits a brand steeped in
Scandinavian design
aesthetics, the shop’s interiors
use simple brass features
combined with wood
flooring. Selected offers an
exclusive and unique range of
menswear and womenswear,
and the store has become a
go-to destination for
fashion-savvy Stuttgart locals
and visitors. Since launching
in 1997, Selected has made a
name for itself as a purveyor
of high-quality clothing
with a Danish twist. This
season, those seeking elegant,
wearable basics should look
no further than the new
Selected store in the Gerber
building. th
Selected, Gerber,
Sophienstrasse 21,
70178 Stuttgart,
+49 (0)711 6648 7259,
selected.com
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 48
PARK LIFE
InteriorPark, a stunning
interior design store in
central Stuttgart, has become
a go-to address for design
afcionados since it opened
in October 2015. The
company, which is committed
to sustainability, started as
a design agency but soon
developed into a bricks-
and-mortar store thanks to
its interdisciplinary team
of experts. Customers can
browse an exciting range of
chairs, tables, beds, lamps,
homeware and much more
in a comfortable 200-square-
metre setting. The store
also hosts talks and events
by design industry leaders ‒
be sure to book ahead as these
sell out fast. th
InteriorPark,
Stephanstrasse 30,
70173 Stuttgart,
+49 (0)711 7616 0866,
interiorpark.com
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 46PH
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24 | NEWS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
FOR THE BOYS
MRQT, designed by
Swiss architecture frm
Rippmann Oesterle Knauss,
is one of Stuttgart’s most
exciting menswear stores;
its stunning interior design
includes 22,000 wooden
sticks that protrude from
the walls to create an illusion
of movement, while the
cement foor and contrasting
clean, white walls allow the
products to stand out.
MRQT carries on-trend
streetwear brands such as
Black Scale, Raised by
Wolves, Norse Projects and
Billionaire Boys Club.
Fashion fans should not
miss this hip and engagingly
striking boutique. th
MRQT,
Paulinenstrasse 44,
70178 Stuttgart,
+49 (0)711 4898 1694,
mrqt.net
CASE SOLVED
German luxury luggage
brand Rimowa, which was
founded in 1898, has built
a global reputation for its
luxury aluminium and
polycarbonate cases. This
Topas Cabin Multiwheel
model (€609) weighs only 4.8
kilos, but has a capacity of 34
litres. Shown here in stylish
silver, the case also boasts
Rimowa’s height-adjustable
interior Flex-Divider system
for maximum convenience
when packing and unpacking.
Topas cases feature integrated
Transportation Security
Administration combination
locks as well as a leverage
lock, ensuring high security.
Originally designed for the
tropics, the aluminium-
magnesium shell is as durable
as it is recognisable – and
the silent wheels make for an
efortless journey through the
airport and beyond. th
Breuninger,
Marktstrasse 1-3,
70173 Stuttgart,
+49 (0)711 211 1141,
rimowa.de
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 48
SHOP | 25
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A NEW VOLUME
Stuttgart-based clothing
brand Trinitas works entirely
in monochrome black, white
and grey. The brand refers to
its collections as ‘volumes’
and each is designated by a
Roman numeral: previous
volumes include X, IX and
VII and the latest is VI. The
brand’s well-thought-out
basics are far from ordinary,
with every detail, including
stitching, zips and
waistbands, carefully
considered. Volume VI
comprises casual shorts,
T-shirts and sweaters in
charcoal grey marl. The
T-shirt pictured is €80 and
the sweatshirt is €120.
Product quality is a
Trinitas priority and this
shows on the shelf. rd
Fledge, Bolzstrasse 6,
70173 Stuttgart,
+49 (0)711 2804 1030,
trinitas-clothing.com
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 47
TIME FOR TEA
The English Tearoom,
founded by English couple
Lynn and Christian
Hazlewood, is a tea shop with
a diference. Its owners scour
the globe for the fnest teas and
the best specialist equipment
in which to brew the drink.
They are passionate about
the health benefts of a good
cup of tea, and their breadth
of knowledge enables them
to help their customers make
the right choice. Alongside
standard blends such as Earl
Grey and English Breakfast,
the store carries interesting
favours such as Regency
Blend. It also sells a wide
range of teaware and gifts. Tea
enthusiasts should look out for
the in-store seminars. th
The English Tearoom,
Weissenburgstrasse 29,
70180 Stuttgart,
+49 (0)711 5187 4006,
the-english-tearoom.de
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Lef: Gucci spring/summer 2016
OF FASHION
From bold animal motifs to twists on classic forals,
designers are looking to the natural world for inspiration this season. It’s the perfect trend for warmer weather,
says Stephen Doig
THE NATURE
A host of German designers have joined in this season’s celebration of all things wild and wonderful
28 | F E AT U R E S
Above (from lef): Louis Vuiton; Gucci, both spring/summer 2016
From the verdant foliage of the Killesberg park in Stuttgart to the internationally renowned Herrenhäusen gardens in
Hanover to Berlin’s Tiergarten and Munich’s 900-acre Englischer Garten, Germany’s cities burst into life-affirming greenery in springtime. Germany’s parks form a rich part of its city landscapes, all the more striking when they are juxtaposed with gleaming high-rise skyscrapers and sculptural architecture. With spring also heralding a change for our wardrobes, it’s heartening to note that designers are bringing the outside in, infusing our style repertoire with pieces that embrace the botanical, the blooming and the wild.
Designers often mine the aesthetics of the natural world for the spring/summer season. But what’s remarkable about this spring’s offering, across menswear, womenswear and accessories, is the especially exciting, vibrant, fresh interpretation of the natural world.
/54 59
‘It was about a clash of cultures,’ said Kim Jones backstage at his spring/summer 2016 menswear show for Louis Vuitton. The collection married eastern and western aesthetics. ‘It was about vintage Americana alongside influences from Asia,’ explained Jones. This coming together was expressed
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30 | F E AT U R E S
Above (from lef): Marc Jacobs; Gucci; Aigner; Jil Sander, all spring/summer 2016
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by interpreting tropical forms of nature from far-flung, exotic locales. Jones is known as an intrepid traveller, and his designs saw storks swooping over silk bombers and shirting, cherry blossoms erupting into bloom, and capuchin monkeys peering out curiously from bamboo fronds; all to joyous effect. Jones consistently finds new ways to inject life and colour into his men’s collections, an area of fashion that generally veers towards the safe and standard rather than the bold and printed.
‘I think there’s definitely a push towards vibrant, vivid prints and a greater sense of adventure in how we dress,’ says Bill Prince,
deputy editor of British GQ. ‘Botanical prints and imagery of that ilk undoubtedly feed in to that.’ Who needs a tropical trek through the jungle when you can gain a sense of adventure through Kim Jones’s impeccable menswear?
At Gucci, Alessandro Michele continued to revolutionise the menswear landscape with his fluid, feminine designs, interpreted using the power of nature. Embroidered bouquets wound their way up suits, garlands were stitched onto lace around necklines, butterflies fluttered over sweaters and rainbow-bright stems, stalks, petals and stamens were blown up and printed onto suits. It was a similar story at Marc Jacobs,
SHOP | 31
who dappled silk pyjama suits and shirts with blossoms and dashes of leopard print.
Germany’s designers were not to be outdone; a host of them joined in the celebration of all things wild and wonderful. At historical German house Aigner, florals were realised in jacquard, lending them a three-dimensional quality. Creative director Christian Beck, in an innovative move, took his cue fraom under the sea, with starfish, crabs, tentacles, seaweed and shells picked out in lace. At Jil Sander, men’s shirting and shorts were dotted with tiny blooms, in a rare burst of frivolity for a brand known for its minimalist aesthetic.
Our wardrobes are increasingly technical, not just in their fabrication but in their construction, design and print. This move away from all things sophisticated and city-centric towards the outdoors, nature and animal life perhaps speaks to our desire to connect with that increasingly distant part of the world in some small form. Whatever the reason, these nature-inspired prints and motifs lend a hint of wit and whimsy to even the most standard piece – what could raise more of a smile than a merry capuchin peering out from the undergrowth? Embrace the call of the wild this season. Your wardrobe will thank you
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Opposite page: Boss spring/summer 2016
This prestigious German brand, known the world over for its suiting, boasts an impressive heritage – and its sights remain frmly fxed on the horizons
ahead, as Charlie Neidpath discovers
HUGO BOSS
IN FOCUS:
Hugo Boss’s striking headquarters in Metzingen are the embodiment of the brand’s ethos. While its
location adheres to the chocolate-box ideal of a quintessential German town, with half-timbered façades and medieval spires, the brand’s nerve centre is a gleaming glass and steel structure set among gardens manicured with exacting precision: a bastion of stark modernity against tradition. This description could be applied to the Hugo Boss label itself, as the brand has become renowned for its fresh, contemporary style in a market that hasn’t historically been at the forefront of
the fashion industry. Despite Karl Lagerfeld’s German origins and the dominance of sportswear brands Adidas and Puma, Germany cannot quite match the style prestige of the UK, France and Italy.
Hugo Boss has always sought to change that. The brand was launched as a small clothing company in 1924; its eponymous founder faced various obstacles, including a bankruptcy which left the entrepreneur with only six sewing machines to his name. Against the odds, this committed businessman went on to steadily build the brand. Today, just
SHOP | 33
34 | FEATURES
Above (from top): Hugo Boss headquarters in Metzingen; Jason Wu, the brand’s womenswear creative director
over 90 years since it was founded, Hugo Boss
has grown into one of the world’s largest and
most successful fashion brands, with a portfolio
encompassing numerous ranges under the
Hugo and Boss labels, products ranging from
bespoke suiting to fragrances, and an
international network of over 1,000 stores.
Though styles have changed over the years
and the brand has adapted with signature
German pragmatism, it’s been the working
wardrobe that has come to define Hugo Boss’s
fashion identity. In 1950, the house started
creating men’s suiting and developed innovative
ways to produce off-the-rack tailored items – a
powerful skill in an era where creating a suit of
quality was generally a painstaking process.
A real flair for catering to the businessman
– and, later, businesswoman – has been an
underlying influence on everything Hugo Boss
has designed over the years, including its high
fashion offerings, and the brand’s universal
appeal can be seen in its ability to adapt the
Boss signature style to suit multiple markets. PH
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Above (from left): two looks from Boss spring/summer 2016
Catwalk collections strike a contemporary note
with sleek suiting, impeccable tailoring, narrow
cuts and single-breasted shapes. With the
founding of the Boss diffusion line in 1970, the
label expanded its reach, making its wares
available to those who might previously have
found the cost of luxury clothing prohibitive.
In 1998, the house’s womenswear collection
made its debut, boldly addressing the emerging
trend for power dressing: shift dresses and
elegant, sleek, feminine suiting spoke clearly to
a new audience.
Today, the label is more current and
dynamic than ever. This is largely thanks to the
deft hand of New York-based designer Jason
Wu, who has brought the trademark Hugo Boss
refinement and sophistication firmly into the
modern day. Wu, creative director of
womenswear since 2013, has steered the line
into a territory that’s both glamorous and
directional. A young, contemporary designer
renowned for his low-key glamour might seem
like an odd fit for a 91-year-old German
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Above (from top): Boss spring/summer 2016; models show the collection on the catwalk
Hugo Boss is a company with its sights set firmly on the horizon
heritage brand, but he has become a household
name. When US First Lady Michelle Obama
chose to wear a Jason Wu creation at her
husband’s inaugural ball in 2009, she cemented
Wu’s reputation as a master of understated
elegance, making him the perfect figurehead
for a brand that has spent nine decades
perfecting a similar aesthetic.
When approached by Hugo Boss chief
brand officer Christoph Auhagen to take on the
role, Wu’s first thought was ‘why me?’. ‘It
seemed like the oddest match,’ he has said. ‘I
thought of Boss as a menswear brand and I
wasn’t super-knowledgeable about the women’s
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Above (from top): an earlier Boss menswear design, from the autumn/winter 2014/15 collection; the Hugo Boss racing yacht in action
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side, which is only 15 years old.’ Wu was won
over in part by the bold modernity of the Boss
headquarters in Metzingen, which he describes
as ‘like the set of the movie Gattaca’ – and the
deal was sealed. Since joining the label, Wu has
already added a sharpness and a sense of cool.
His latest collection features ice-white layers
and blouses, muted grey and dove-toned
dresses, sleek black minimalist gowns and soft
yellow racer-back tops and dresses.
If more proof were needed that Hugo Boss
is literally going places, in autumn 2015 the
label sponsored a branded racing yacht. The
boat, which features graphic design by
esteemed industrial designer Konstantin Grcic,
will take part in the 2016 Vendée Globe yacht
race, skippered by record-breaking sailor Alex
Thomson. With Wu as creative director, an
ever-increasing range of products and stores,
and now this new nautical endeavour, it’s
tempting to describe Hugo Boss as a brand which
is sailing ahead. Trite as this may sound, however,
it is nonetheless true – this is a company with its
sights set firmly on the horizon PH
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STAY IN STYLE
38 | E X PE R I E NCE
rooms and equipment, and a service that is second to none. Be sure to sample the delicious fare on offer at Fischers Fritz, which has two Michelin stars and is one of Berlin’s finest eateries. The venue specialises in exquisite fish and seafood dishes, though it has something for every taste, and even offers private dining rooms for business meetings or special occasions. Regent Berlin, Charlottenstrasse 49, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 20338, regenthotels.com/berlin
REGENT BERLIN
Ideally located in the heart of the German capital, close to Gendarmenmarkt square and Berlin’s famous Brandenburg Gate, Regent Berlin is perfect for anyone looking for true luxury in this bustling city. Even the most seasoned traveller will be impressed by the high standards set at this hotel, which offers 195 rooms and suites, state-of-the-art conference
The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-the- art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best
SHOP | 39
Greek mythological scenes in the entrance hall and on the ceilings of the Great Hall. The building was acquired by the Soho House Group in 2014 and has been meticulously restored and impeccably designed to create an impressively grand and irresistibly cool venue. Soho House Istanbul, Evliya Celebi Mahallesi, Mesrutiyet Caddesi 56, Beyoğlu, Istanbul,+90 (0)212 377 7100, sohohouseistanbul.com
SOHO HOUSE
ISTANBUL
Soho House Istanbul has taken over Palazzo Corpi, one of the most historic and beautiful buildings in the Beyoğlu area of the city. The palace was commissioned in 1873 by wealthy Italian shipbuilder Ignazio Corpi, and built using the finest materials, including Carrara marble; renowned artists were invited to depict
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pleasant courtyard garden. For those looking for particularly spacious accommodation, the distinctive Brentano Suite possesses its own dining room, study and walk-in closet. Afternoon tea is served in the refined surroundings of the hotel’s Peacock Alley, gourmets will enjoy De Librije restaurant, which holds three Michelin stars, and the cosy Vault Bar is the ideal place for a nightcap. Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam, Herengracht 542-556, 1017 CG Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 718 4600, hilton.com/amsterdam
WALDORF ASTORIA AMSTERDAM
Positioned on Herengracht, one of Amsterdam’s best-known canals, the Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam combines Dutch style and history with the luxury and attention to detail for which Waldorf Astoria hotels are known worldwide. The hotel is in a former merchant’s house with plenty of spacious, light-filled rooms providing views of the adjacent canal and of the house’s
SHOP | 41
with glass and natural light. Inside the 290 guest rooms are flat-screen televisions and spacious rain showers. As well as serving classic European dishes, the hotel’s DOX restaurant includes an authentic Japanese sushi bar, while a relaxed atmosphere can be enjoyed in Café D. Hyatt Regency Düsseldorf, Speditionstrasse 19, 40221 Dusseldorf, +49 (0)211 9134 1234, dusseldorf.regency.hyatt.com
HYATT REGENCY DÜSSELDORF
The Hyatt Regency in Düsseldorf’s stylish Mediahafen district provides an efficient service for business and leisure travellers alike. It is conveniently placed for the airport as well as for the city centre and exhibition centres. The 19-floor hotel’s concept was designed by well-known Dutch interior design company FG Stijl and deftly combines warm colours
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than any hotel in Scandinavia and its pedigree is clear in the 118 stylish rooms and the award-winning penthouse suite with its own rooftop terrace. Each room is filled with details to make your stay special, from custom-designed bathrobes to blankets to keep you warm while you take in the view from your balcony. Sample some of the best cocktails Oslo has to offer in the hotel bar, where mixology is treated as an art form: fresh fruit is dehydrated daily in-house, and even the ice cubes are hand cut.
THE THIEF
Since its opening in 2013, the Thief has built a global reputation for cutting-edge design. The hotel’s permanent art collection is overseen by Sune Nordgren, the founding director of the National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design in Oslo. As a result, guests enjoy the benefit of expertly selected original artwork in their rooms as well as free access to the Astrup Fearnley museum of modern art, which is located next door. The Thief cost more per room to build
The Thief, Landgangen 1, 0252 Oslo, +47 2400 4000, thethief.com
SHOP | 43
your room. The 557 guest rooms each boast floor-to-ceiling windows, so spectacular views come as standard. Head to the SkyLounge on the 11th floor for light food and barista-made coffee, and in the evening enjoy cocktails and listening to live DJs. Other eating and drinking options include the City Café, Eastwood restaurant, and the lobby bar, which is also the location for Holland’s only 24-hour library. DoubleTree by Hilton Amsterdam
Centraal Station, Oosterdoksstraat 4, 1011 DK Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 530 0800, amsterdam.doubletree.com
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON AMSTERDAM CENTRAAL STATION
Located in the city centre, very close to the main station, DoubleTree by Hilton Amsterdam Centraal Station is a convenient and stylish choice. Every detail reiterates DoubleTree’s commitment to a seamless and enjoyable experience: expect a freshly baked chocolate chip cookie on arrival and an iMac in
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Above: Stuttgart’s Schlossplatz square is a green space in the heart of the city
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Stuttgart with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a top-class jeweller to a charming store for children. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/stuttgart.
A Glimpse Of Stuttgart
THE GUIDE
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G/W
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ALSTRASSE
FIRNHABERSTR.
HOHE S
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TRA
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RELENBERGSTRASSE
BREITE STR.
MARIE
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CHLOSSERSTRASSE
K
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ALEX
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ANNECKERSTR ASSE
UHLANDSTRASSE
KRONENSTRASSE
KIENENSTRASSE
KEP
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TRA
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PA NOR AMASTRASSE
J
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H
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DOROTHEENSTR.
CHRISTOPHSTRASSE
BOPERSTRASSE
WILHELMSTRASSE
O
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HOLZSTRAS SE
H
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ALEXAN DE
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CHLOSSSTRASSE
PLANIE
CHARLOTTENSTRASSE
H
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KON
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F
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PRINZSTRASS E
C
ALWER S
TRASSE
KRIEGSBERGSTRASSE ARNULF-KLETT-PL.
SCHILLERSTR . WAGEN BURGSTR.
PAULIN
ENSTRASSE
STUTTGARTMAIN STATION
STADTMITTE COLLEGIATE CHURCH
NEW CASTLE
LINDEN MUSEUM
ART MUSEUM
STATE
GALLERY
STUTTGART
NATIONAL
THEATRE
PLANETARIUM
CITY HALL
MitlererSchlossgarten
Marktplatz
Oberer Schlossgarten
Schillerplatz
Hotel Royal
SteigenbergerGraf Zeppelin
Hotel am Schlossgar ten
Hotel InterCit y
Le Meridien
SHOP | 45
STUTTGART
Tourist Information Hotel Place Of Interest Train Station
PAGE
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PAGE
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PAGE
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PAGE
48
KR
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ASSE KRONENSTRASSE KRONENSTRASSE
KEPLERSTR
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L
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LAGER
STR.
ARNULF-KLETT-PL.
MY NAME● IS
● MY TOYS● SALAMANDER
Karstadt Spor t● MANGO
● UNDIZ● ADIDAS
● H&M WOMEN● DESIGUAL
● GÖRTZ● MÜLLER
● RESERVED
● ONLY
STUTTGARTMAIN
STATION
MAGAZIN ●MANUFACTUM ●
BÖRSENSTRASSE
KRIEGSBERGSTRASSE
SCHILLERSTR.
K
RIEGSBERGSTRASSE
A
M S
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LOS
SGA
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FRIE
DRIC
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K
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KÖN
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● T
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BODY
SH
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Königsbau Passagen
Galeria KauÄof
Peek & Cloppenburg
CONRAD ●THE NORTH FACE ●
MAMMUT ●SPORTSCHECK ●
MEDIA MARKT ● BÄR ●
PHOTO PLANET ●
EDICO-TOBACCO ●
DM-DROGERIE MARKT ●BAHNHOF-
APOTHEKE ●
HALLHUBER ●BIJOU
BRIGITTE ●BUFFALO ●
ZARA ●MANGO ●
H&M ●KULT ●
APOLLO OPTIK ●NEW YORKER ●
TKMAXX ●GÖRTZ 17 ●
KOELBLE & BRUNOTTE ●
TALLY WEIJL ●HUT HANNE ●
MAGNUS VILLING ●BRILLEN KRATZMANN ●
LAUFMANN ●
INTERIORPARK ●
46 | GU I DE
WEMPE
Statement jewellery is a key trend this season and Wempe’s spring/summer 2016 collection is nothing short of dazzling. Distinctive, eye-catching highlights include the Revival By Kim necklace, a chic, contemporary take on the classic curb-link chain necklace. This 1970s style has been redesigned in feminine rose gold and combines a bold handmade link chain with a solid necklace. For evening, jewellery fans should seek out By Kim’s exquisite Colonna cocktail rings, adorned with a sizeable tourmaline in either sea green or purple, as well as the spectacular haute joaillerie bracelet whose sapphire and diamond design was inspired by the crest of a wave.
Shopping Centre/Mall Department Store Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Wempe, Königstrasse 41, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 223 8090, wempe.com
Königstrasse
SELECTED STORES IN KÖNIGSBAU PASSAGEN:
ApothekeKönigsbau Bang & OlufsenDirk RossmannDouglasEvita ShoesG-Star RawKästner OptikKrass OptikLederwaren AckerMandarina DuckMore & MoreMöve Nanu NanaNileOlympOlymp & HadesPodiumPrime ShoesQuiksilverRossamoraSaturnSovranoStraussInnovationWolsdorffTobacco
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Train Station Featured In This Issue
Königstrasse
E
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H
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MARKTSTR
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BUCHHANDLUNG KONRAD WITTWER ●
ESPRIT ●
RUNNERS POINT ●
SWAROVSKI ●
H&M ●YVES ROCHER ●TIMBERLAND ●
DOUGLAS ●VON HOFEN ●
MAUTE-BENGER ●UHR24 - SWATCH ●
TRITSCHLER ●COS ●
BETTY BARCLAY ●S OLIVER ●
JUWELIER E KUTTER ●
PANDORA ●CHRIST ●ZARA ●
BOGNER ●PROMOD ●
TALLY WEIJL ●VERO MODA ●
GERRY WEBER ●SNIPES TEXTIL ●
PRO OPTIK AUGENOPTIK ●FIELMANN ●
TOM TAILOR ●INTERNATIONALE APOTHEKE ●
● SIDESTEP
● PUMKIE● GEOX
● NEW YORKER● HUGO BOSS
● MASSIMO DUTTI● FRIEDO FRIER JUWELIERE
● FOOT LOCKER● SPORT ARENA
● ROLAND SCHUHE● WMF
● ORSAY● DEUTSCHE TELEKOM
● SCHLOSS-PARFÜMERIE● SHOE TOWN WERDICH
● DEICHMANN
● WEMPE● ZERO
● O2● H&M MEN
● BABY-WALZ
● SALAMANDER● TCHIBO
● C&A
EUROPA ● APOTHEKE
JACKWOLFSKIN ●
HA
UP
STÄTTER S
TRA
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ART MUSEUM
Schillerplatz
M
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● MUSSLER
AESOP ●
RENÉ LEZARD ●
MAX MARA ●
STRENESSE ●
FLEDGE ●
● BLUTSGESCHWISTER
Place Of Interest
CONRAD
Choosing the right electronic and technology products can be a bit of a minefield, but specialist retailer Conrad is known for its practical solutions. Well equipped to deal with the needs of both businesses and individuals, Conrad stocks many premium technology brands, including Apple, Microsoft, Philips and Samsung. The company has stores across Germany and is renowned for its knowledgeable members of staff, who will be on hand to help you whether you’re looking for a new tablet or a power-tool kit.Conrad, Kronenstrasse 7, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)9604 408789, conrad.de
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EIC
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GYMNASIUMSTR.
H
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LANGE STRASSE
BÜCHSENSTRASSE
HIR
SCHSTRASSE
MARKTSTR.
● SPIELWAREN KURTZ● NESPRESSO
● BINDER OPTIK● THOMAS SABO
● SCHUHHAUS BLETZINGER
● MÜLLER LTD
● VILLEROY & BOCH
JUWELIER ● WERNER JACOBI
● RALPH GOEBEL● ANNE KORN
● ODLO
● TAUSCHE
● SCHWANEN-APOTHEKE
● BREITLING● SIOUX
TRITSCHLER ●
HAUFLER AM
MARKT ●
SCHULSTRASSE
● ESCADA
STIFTSTRASSE
MONSOON ACCESSORIZE ●
TAMARIS ●PETIT BATEAU ●
JUWELIER SCHUMACHER ●WOLFORD ●
Galeria Kaufof
DOROTHEENSTRASSE
● VAN LAACK● SIGRUN WOEHR SCHUHE● GEBR. MÜLLER - MESSERSCHMIEDE
● WURSTER SCHUHHAUS
● WELLENDORFF● SØR● GOLDEN EYES● BASLER
Kotan
BUNGALOW ● Karlsplatz
Breuninger
HORST WANSCHURA ●
HABITAT●
SCOTCH & ● SODA
DM DROGERIE● MARKT
● ETERNA● FRANKONIA
RE
NÉ
LE
ZA
RD
●M
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MA
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●
MEISSEN ●
BREE COLLECTION ●INTERSPORT BREITMEYER ●
BUTLERS ●CHARLOTTE EHINGER-SCHWARZ ●
LLOYD ●
MARC O’POLO ●
BUCKLES & BELTS ●
JUWELIER VONHOFEN ●
● INGRID DÖTTINGER
● ANDREAS SAPPER
● CRABTREE & EVELYN● CALWER 13 MODE SPORTIF
● OPTIK MARTIN
● STEIFF GALERIE
● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS● LUDWIG REITER
● MARINA RINALDI● PANDORA
● MARC CAIN
● STRENESSE
C
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STR
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STRA
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K
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ROTEBÜ HLPLATZ
KÖNIGS TR ASSE
EBERHARDSTRASSE
HOOK & EYE ●
Gerber
STUTTGARTER
WEIHNACHTSMARKT
STUTTGARTER
WEIHNACHTSMARKT
Marktplatz
Calwer Strasse & Kronprinzstrasse, Marktplatz,
Kirchstrasse, Stiftstrasse & Eberhardstrasse
STIFTSTRA
SSE
● H
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Shopping Centre/Mall Department Store Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
LOCAL TIP
Stuttgart’s Altes Schloss (old castle) is situated in
the city centre; a castle has stood in the same spot
since around the year 950. The building,
renovated in 1969, is now home to the
Württemberg State Museum, which provides a
cultural break from a busy day of shopping.
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SELECTED STORES IN BREUNINGER:
ChristCartierGravisPorsche DesignTiffany & Co
SHOP | 49
Place Of Interest Featured In This Issue Bar
Langestrasse, Sophienstrasse & Lichtentaler Strasse
STIFTGASSE
SONNENPLATZ
STEINSTRASSE
BÜ
TTEN
STRASSE
SCHLOS S BERGSTR.
WILHELMSTR. HIRSCHSTR A S S E
HÖLLENGASSE
MARKTPLATZ
RE T T I G STR ASSE
LIC
HT
EN
TA
LE
R S
TR
AS
SE
U
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E
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SS
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WERDERSTRASSE
UE
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TR
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KA
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RA
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KA
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RA
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HARDSTR A SSEHARDS
SCHEIBENSTR ASSE
L
SO
LM
SS
TR
AS
SE
L
UIS
EN
ST
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SOPHIENSTRASSE
SOPHIENSTRASSE
LA
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TR
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SE
L
AN
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E STR ASSE
ST
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NIEN
ST
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SC
HLO
SS
STRASSE
● ANTORA SELECTION
● GLÜCKSKIND CHILDRENSWEAR
● ZYPR CASHMERE
● B THOMA
TANDEM
LADEN ●
● MAX MARA
● ESCADA
● BOGNER
● V
AN
LA
AC
K●
TO
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BIL
LO
N●
HE
RM
ÈS
PA
RF
ÜM
ER
IE
● H
OP
PE
NK
AM
PS
HAWICK CASHMERE ●
MODE WAGENER ●
LACOSTE ●
SWAROVSKI ●
DOUGLAS ●
CÉLINE EXCLUSIV ●
● WAGENER GALERIE
● PANDORA
● CHRIST
FESTSPIELHAUS
● MARC CAIN
MARINA RINALDI ●
● BASLER
STRENESSE ●
● MONIKA SCHOLZ
BADEN-BADEN
DID YOU KNOW?
Stuttgart has
had vineyards
since 3AD and
is the only
German city
with a
municipal wine
estate, which
covers 17.5
hectares. Wine
festivals are held
here throughout
the year.
SIGIKID
Sigikid fulfils your child’s every need, from clothes to toys. In operation for over 45 years, this family-run German business is known for its fantastic range of soft and cuddly toys, in addition to high-quality clothing and accessories. Expect a wide and innovative selection of products, all made with Sigikid’s characteristic attention to detail. Sigikid, Breite Strasse 2, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 7223 0976, sigikid.de
50 | GUIDE
WERTHEIM VILLAGE
By car
From Stuttgart,
take the A81 towards
Würzburg. At
Würzburg Kist,
change to the A3
towards Frankfurt.
Take exit 66
Wertheim/Lengfurt
for Wertheim Village.
The drive takes
approximately 90
minutes from
Stuttgart city centre.
HOW TO GET THERE...
Wertheim Village
A81
A81
A81
STUTTGART
WÜRZBERGA3
A3
Wertheim Village, located 90 minutes from Stuttgart city centre, plays host to more than 110 designer boutiques from both German and international labels. The Village’s traditional scallop-tiled roofing and turrets echo nearby vineyard-clad hills and local villages.
DAY TRIP
OPENING TIMES
Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pmSundays &
public holidays: closed
For special opening times please visit
the websiteWertheim Village, Almosenberg, 97887 Wertheim, +49 (0)9342 919 9100, wertheimvillage.com, chicoutletshopping.com
Outlet Village
SHOP | 51
10am
Start your day at German
label Drykorn. The brand is
known for setting the trends;
expect bright colours, bold prints
and a high-quality finish.
11am
Lagerfeld’s boutique
offers the complete ready-to-wear
men’s collection and range of
accessories, all infused with Karl
Lagerfeld’s signature style.
1pm
Stop for a lunch break at
Prime. The restaurant serves a
range of high-quality dishes
including burgers, fresh salads
and daily specials, served in an
urban-chic environment.
3pm
Steiff’s trademark ear
button makes its high-quality
teddy bears instantly
recognisable. The Steiff range
also includes dogs, cats and pigs.
6pm
End your day by admiring
the craftsmanship displayed in
Bally’s exquisite leather goods
collection. Pieces offer
the highest quality as well as
contemporary styling.
DON’T MISS…
FIVE-STAR SERVICES
The village offers a range of VIP services including:
• Free Wi-Fi
• Free parking
• A personal shopper (on request)
• Tourist information
• A children’s playground
SHOPPING PACKAGES
Various packages are available at the Village, which
can be booked via the Village’s website. Services
can include:
• Return tickets to the Village on the Shopping Express®
luxury coach
• A €25 Wertheim Village Shopping Card to be spent
at a boutique of your choice at the Village
• An exclusive gift
• Lunch with small soft drink at La Piazza restaurant
at the Village
PERFECT DAY
Above: xxxxxxxxxx
DAY TRIP
OUTLETCITY METZINGEN
Located near renowned German high fashion label Hugo Boss’s headquarters, Outletcity Metzingen is one of Europe’s most popular outlet centres.
With over 70 top international brands available at reductions of up to 70%, the stylish centre attracts 3.5 million visitors per year.
Outletcity
Metzingen,Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen, +49 (0)7123 925326, outletcity.com
A8A8
L230B28
STUTTGART
OutletcityMetzingen
STUTTGART CENTRAL STATION
METZINGEN WÜRTT
By car
From Stuttgart take
the B27 and exit on to the
B312, signposted Metzingen.
Outletcity Metzingen is clearly
signposted when you arrive in
the town.
By train
There is a train from
Stuttgart to Metzingen every
30 minutes. The journey takes
approximately 40 minutes. The
outlet is a few minutes’ walk
from Metzingen station.
By Shopping Shuttle
A convenient special bus
takes visitors from Stuttgart to
the outlet and back four times
a day every Thursday, Friday
and Saturday.
OPENING TIMES
Monday-Friday: 10am-8pmSaturday: 9am-8pm
(Hugo Boss 8am-8pm)
HOW TO GET THERE...
52 | GU I DE
10am
Start your day perusing
the sportswear on offer at Peak
Performance; the label is well
known for combining practicality
and style.
12pm
Take a break and enjoy a
lunchtime pause at Keim Bakery,
which offers refreshments from
freshly made sandwiches to
delicious coffee and cake.
2pm
The ready-to-wear
collection available at Hugo
Boss strikes the perfect balance
between fashion and functionality,
underpinned with German design.
4pm
Diane von Furstenberg
produces classic, feminine pieces
which exude elegance – the
designer’s printed wrap dress is
an iconic wardrobe staple.
PERFECT DAY
6pm
End your trip at
Samsonite. This esteemed
luggage manufacturer is known
for offering quality, durability and
surprisingly lightweight suitcases.
Outlet Village Train Station
53
WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD,SHOP TAX FREE
59
62
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
[email protected]+421 232 111 111
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.
1. Shop 2. Claim
Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
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TRANSLATIONS
globalblue.com
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД
26: The Nature Of Fashion
Природа Моды
В этом сезоне дизайнеры обратились за вдохновением к природе, сосредоточив внимание на анималистических мотивах и классических цветочных узорах, которые получили современную интерпретацию. Для теплой погоды этот тренд просто идеален, – считает Стивен Дойг
От королевских садов Ганновера до берлинского парка Тиргартен и Английского сада в Мюнхене, протянувшегося более чем на четыре квадратных километра, – немецкие города с приходом весны начинает утопать в изумрудной зелени. Насаждения составляют большую часть ландшафтов немецких городов, контрастируя с зеркальными небоскребами и живописной архитектурой. По мере того, как весна все глубже проникает в сердца и души, дизайнеры готовят цветочную революцию для нашего гардероба, главной темой которой будет природа и растительный мир.
Это уже не первый раз, когда модельеры черпают вдохновение для весенне-летних коллекций в эстетике природы. Что отличает модные коллекций этого сезона, так это особая свежесть и яркость передачи образов.
«В центре внимания было столкновение культур», – сказал Ким Джонс за кулисами своего шоу-показа мужской коллекции весна-лето 2016 для Louis Vuitton. Коллекция объединила в себе восточную и западную эстетику. «Американское ретро тесно пересекалось с элементами азиатской культуры», – поясняет Джонс. Выразить такое единение континентов помогли тропические образы из далеких экзотических местностей. Джонс известен своей страстью к путешествиям, и, как следствие, его шелковые рубашки и куртки P
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бомберы пестрили изображениями летящих аистов, цветущих вишен и милых обезьян, выглядывающих из бамбуковых зарослей. Джонс продолжает искать новые способы сделать мужские коллекции более яркими и жизнерадостными в противовес многим консерваторам моды, боящимся выйти за рамки стандартов и традиций.
«Мне кажется, что наша манера одеваться заметно сместилась в сторону красочных принтов и приобрела более авантюрный оттенок, – говорит Билл Принц, заместитель главного редактора английского GQ. – Цветочные и анималистские узоры явное тому доказательство». Зачем отправляться в рискованные путешествия по тропикам, если коллекции Ким Джонс могут подарить обладателю настоящий дух приключений?
Gucci и Алессандро Микеле продолжают работать над мужским гардеробом, представляя плавные линии и природные образы. На пиджаках теснятся вышитые букеты, воротники пестрят гирляндными лентами, на свитерах с радужными швами гнездятся тропические бабочки, а костюмы усеяны стебельками, бутонами и тычинками. Похожая картина наблюдалась у Марка Джекобса, который оживил шелковые пижамные костюмы и рубашки красочными соцветиями и леопардовым принтом.
Немецкие дизайнеры нисколько не уступили своим коллегам, а многие из них сами поддались очарованию «цветочного безумия». Модный дом Hugo Boss переосмыслил цветочные узоры в коллекциях женской одежды, добавив сизые и серые тона для контраста с пастельными оттенками и яркими пятнами абстрактных принтов. Немецкий бренд Aigner воплотил флористику в жаккардовых тканях, создающих эффект трехмерности. Креативный директор Кристиан Бэк в свойственной ему инновационной манере создал кружевной коктейль из морских звезд, крабов, осьминогов, водорослей и раковин. Мужские рубашки и шорты Jil
Sander покрылись мириадами крошечных цветов, нарушивших давнюю минималистскую эстетику бренда.
Наш гардероб становится все более технологически совершенным, и дело не только в тканях, но и в конструкции, дизайне и принтах. Новая тенденция, оставляющая позади замысловатые урбанистические элементы и отсылающая к открытому воздуху, природе и миру животных, похоже, говорит о нашем желании хоть как-то воссоединиться с той частью мира, которая все больше от нас ускользает. Как бы там ни было, природные мотивы смогут привнести долю остроумия и фантазии даже в самый простой предмет гардероба. Кто сможет остаться равнодушным при виде милого капуцина, удивленно выглядывающего из зарослей? Откликнетесь ли вы на зов природы в этом сезоне, зависит только от вас.
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globalblue.com
32: In Focus: Hugo Boss
В фокусе: Hugo Boss
Немецкий модный дом Hugo Boss, костюмы которого известны на весь мир, бережно хранит свою впечатляющую историю и традиции, но при этом устремлен в будущее, – рассказывает Чарли Нейдпат
Стильная штаб-квартира Hugo Boss в Метцингене полностью отражает характер этого бренда. Она находится в идиллическом немецком городе, полном традиционных бревенчатых фасадов и средневековых шпилей. Однако само здание представляет собой современную конструкцию из стекла и стали, окруженную тщательно ухоженными садами. Это настоящий бастион современности на фоне
традиции. То же самое можно сказать и о бренде Hugo Boss: он завоевал репутацию благодаря актуальному свежему подходу в той сфере, где Германия никогда не была в авангарде. Несмотря на немецкое происхождение Карла Лагерфельда и бесспорное господство спортивных брендов Adidas и Puma, эта страна немногое может противопоставить модному влиянию Англии, Франции и Италии. Hugo Boss всегда стремился изменить эту ситуацию.
История бренда началась в 1924 году с небольшого ателье. Перед основателем компании то и дело возникали самые разные препятствия. В его истории было даже банкротство, после которого все, что у него оставалось, – всего лишь шесть швейных машин. Но предприниматель был предан своему делу и, преодолевая сложности,
57
Способность угадывать потребности бизнесменов (а позднее и женщин-предпринимателей) стала лейтмотивом всего, что создает Hugo Boss на протяжении многих лет, включая высокую моду. Истоки всеобщего внимания к бренду можно усмотреть в умении применять особый стиль Boss к разнообразным условиям на рынке. Коллекции всегда выглядят актуальными благодаря детально проработанным костюмам, удачным фасонам, точному крою и однобортными силуэтам.
Основав диффузную линию Boss в 1970 году, компания расширила свое присутствие: эта одежда стала более доступной для тех, кто раньше не мог ее себе позволить. В 1998 состоялся дебют женской коллекции, в которой прослеживался
упорно продолжал развивать бизнес. Спустя 90 лет со дня основания Hugo Boss стал одним из самых значительных и успешных модных брендов в мире. Под лейблами Hugo и Boss выпускаются многочисленные серии, возможности варьируются от сшитых на заказ костюмов до парфюмов, и в разных странах работает более 1000 магазинов.
С годами фасоны поменялись, и знаменитый немецкий прагматизм помогает модному дому адаптироваться к переменам. Модную идентичность Hugo Boss определил деловой гардероб. В 1950-е компания начала выпускать мужские костюмы и прорабатывать технологичные подходы к производству готовой одежды. Это стало важным преимуществом в эпоху, когда работа над качественным костюмом была длительной и кропотливой.
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ориентир на энергичный стиль – тренд нового времени: лаконичные свободные платья и элегантные, женственные костюмы были адресованы аудитории нового типа.
В наши дни Hugo Boss стремится к трендовому и динамичному образу более, чем когда-либо раньше. Это происходит с легкой руки нью-йоркского дизайнера Джейсона Ву, который соединил фирменную вневременную изысканность Hugo Boss с современностью. Джейсон Ву возглавляет женское направление с 2013 года. Молодой дизайнер, сторонник актуальной сдержанности, – подобный выбор может показаться неочевидным для немецкого бренда с большой традицией. Но именно он сумел заострить женскую коллекцию и органично вписаться в жизнь модного дома.
В 2009 году первая леди США Мишель Обама выбрала творение Джейсона Ву для инаугурационного бала своего мужа. Тем самым, она подтвердила репутацию Ву как мастера сдержанной элегантности. На протяжении девяти десятилетий Hugo Boss совершенствовался в этой эстетике, и
фигура Ву не могла остаться незамеченной. Когда директор по брендам Hugo Boss
Кристоф Аухаген обратился к нему с предложением занять пост в компании, первой мыслью Ву стал вопрос «почему я?»: «Выбор показался мне очень странным, – поделился он. – Я считал Boss брендом мужской одежды и не был осведомлен о женской линии, которой всего 15 лет». Дизайнера впечатлил современный дух штаб-квартиры Boss в Метцингене, которую он назвал «похожей на декорации к фильму «Гаттака». И сделка состоялась. С момента присоединения к команде Ву уже успел заострить стиль и сделать его более точным. В его новую коллекцию вошли белоснежные блузы, платья приглушенного серого и голубого оттенков, черные минималистские комплекты и мягкие желтые топы и платья с открытыми лопатками.
Осенью 2015 года Hugo Boss спонсировал фирменную гоночную яхту. Ее оформлением занимался уважаемый промышленный дизайнер Константин Грчич. В 2016 году эта лодка под управлением рекордсмена Алекса
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53: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру,
совершайте их с Tax Free
Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.
1. В магазинеГде бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.
2. При выездеВозвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов.
Контакты:[email protected]+421 232 111 111Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
美文翻译
26: The Nature Of Fashion
时尚与大自然
从大胆的动物图腾到以创新手法演绎的经典纹样，
本季设计师们纷纷向自然界寻求灵感，对愈加温暖
的气候而言，这一趋势堪称完美。Stephen Doig 报
道
从汉诺威举世闻名的海恩豪森王家花园中的青翠枝
叶，到柏林绵延的蒂尔加滕公园与慕尼黑占地900
英亩的英国花园，德国的城市在春日迸发出生机勃
勃的绿意。德国的公园是城市丰富景观的重要组成
部分，错落于各种摩天大楼与建筑架构之间更显夺
目。春天的到来不仅为我们的衣橱带来变化，设计师
Томсона будет участвовать в парусной гонке Vendée Globe. Постоянно растущий ассортимент и сеть бутиков, Ву на посту креативного директора, а теперь еще и морская навигация – очень соблазнительно назвать Hugo Boss большим кораблем с большим плаванием впереди. Пусть это звучит неоригинально, но так и есть: перед этим модным домом открыты все горизонты.
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32: In Focus: Hugo Boss
聚焦：Hugo Boss
这个尊贵的德国品牌，以制造西服享誉全球，在传承
光辉历史的同时——仍将视野牢牢聚焦于未
来，Charlie Neidpath报道
Hugo Boss的总部位于麦琴根，这座夺人眼球的建
筑是品牌精神的体现。其设计理念是装在巧克力盒
里浓缩的典型德国小镇，有着半木结构外墙和中世
纪尖顶，品牌的神经中枢则位于以严格标准修剪的
花园内，是一栋以反光玻璃和钢结构打造的建筑：
一座以鲜明现代性对抗传统的堡垒。这句描述同样
适用于Hugo Boss品牌本身，因其以新鲜、摩登的设
计，在一片历史上从未处于时尚前沿的市场上打开
局面而闻名。即便卡尔·拉格菲尔德来自德国，领先
运动服装品牌如阿迪达斯和彪马源于德国，德国在
时尚产业完全不能与英国、法国和意大利匹敌。
Hugo Boss一直试图改变这种状况。品牌于
1924年成立时只是一间小服装公司；其同名创始人
面临重重障碍，包括经历了一场名下只留下六台缝
纫机的破产。这位决心如铁的商人克服万难，稳步扎
实地建立自己的品牌。今日，在成立仅仅90年
后，Hugo Boss已发展为全球规模最大、最成功的
时尚品牌之一，在Hugo与Boss品牌旗下，拥有数条
产品系列，经营范围从定制西服到香氛无所不包，并
在世界各地拥有超过1000家门店网络。
虽然在过去的岁月中风格已有所改变，品牌也
适应了德国特色的实用主义，职场衣橱的美誉最终
成就了Hugo Boss的时尚身份。在1950年，品牌开
始推出男装西服，并开发出可大批量生产成衣的创
新工艺——在那个制作优质西服需要痛苦漫长过程
的年代，堪称极具影响力的技术。
品牌拥有取悦男性商务人士的天分——而后，
就是女性商务人士——这对于Hugo Boss多年来的
设计有着根深蒂固的潜在影响，包括其高级时装线，
品牌的普遍吸引力从其以Boss招牌款式迎合不同市
场的能力中可见一斑。品牌的走秀系列洋溢着摩登
的调子，包括时髦的西服、无可匹敌的剪裁、窄身廓
形与单排扣款式。当Boss副线系列在1970年推出
时，品牌继续扩大其覆盖面，让那些之前被奢侈品高
昂售价挡在门外的顾客也成为受众。1998年，品牌
的女装系列首次亮相，大胆直击气场着装的新趋
势：通勤连衣裙与优雅、时尚、女性化的西服套装，
响应这批新受众的需求。
如今，品牌相较以往更为入时与动感。这在很大
程度上归功于纽约设计师吴季刚（Jason Wu），他
以当代手法完整诠释了Hugo Boss品牌的精致细
腻。吴季刚自2013年起担任女装创意总监起，将这
条产品线带往清晰明确的时髦新方向。一位以低调
们也将户外的春光引入室内，为时尚系列带来颂扬
植物与生命盛放的单品，令人心生暖意。
诚然，在春夏季节设计师们时常会从自然界汲
取美学灵感。然而在今年春天尤其值得一提的，是从
男装、女装到配饰全线，都可见到这种令人兴奋、富
含活力、充满新意的对自然界的诠释。
“这是文化之间的冲突，”Kim Jones在为路易威
登带来的2016春夏男装发布会后台表示。这个系列
将东西方美学嫁接。“这是复古美国风与亚洲美学影
响的融合，”Jones解释道。两者的结合，通过从遥远
东方异国情调中提取解构出热带自然元素来呈
现。Jones是一名公认的勇敢旅行家，他的设计中包
括印有鹳鸟的丝质夹克与衬衣，烂漫盛开的樱花图
案，还有从竹林中好奇地探出脑袋的卷尾猴；一切
都洋溢着欢乐。Jones持续不断地寻找新手法为自己
的男装系列注入生命力与色彩，而这个领域传统上
来说，通常追求的是安全与标准，而非大胆与印花。
“我认为有一股潮流的力量，推动我们的着装向
充满活力的、鲜活的印花，与更具冒险精神的设计发
展，”英国版GQ杂志副主编Bill Prince表示。“植物
印花与图案之流毫无疑问与这股潮流相契合。”既然
Kim Jones无可挑剔的男装带给你冒险的乐趣，谁
还需要去丛林探险？
在Gucci，Alessandro Michele仍致力于以自
己流线型、女性化的设计改革男装设计的图景，并利
用自然的力量加以诠释。刺绣花朵环绕于西服之上，
领口周围的花边上缝有花环，毛衣上点缀着飞舞的
蝴蝶，彩虹般的花柄、根茎、花瓣与花蕊印花绽放于
西装上。在Marc Jacobs同样如此，花朵与些许豹纹
印花装点着丝绸睡衣与衬衫。
德国的设计师们也不甘示弱；他们中的大多数
都加入了赞颂野生美好事物的行列。Hugo Boss在女装系列中重新演绎了花朵印花，使用柔和的鸽子
色与板岩色调，与柔和的糖果色或大胆的抽象印花
形成令人耳目一新的对比效果。德国经典品牌
Aigner，花朵以提花工艺手法呈现，赋予其三维立
体感。创意总监Christian Beck大胆创新，从海底生
物中获得灵感，在花边中织入海星、螃蟹、章鱼、海
藻和贝壳等图案。在Jil Sander，男装衬衣与短裤被
装饰以微型花朵，对这个以极简美学著称的品牌而
言，可谓是相当罕见的繁复奢华。
如今我们的衣橱变得越发有技术含量，不仅体
现于面料，也同样体现于构造、设计与印花中。这一
从纷繁复杂的事物与以城市中心，向户外、大自然以
及与动物相处的转变，透露着我们想在细微之处与
那部分渐行渐远的世界相连接的渴望。无论出于什
么原因，这些以自然为灵感的印花和图案赋予最标
准化的单品智慧与趣味——还有比探出脑袋张望的
卷尾猴更能引人一笑的吗？请尽情拥抱本季野趣的
呼唤。你的衣柜亦会对你感激不尽。
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奢华设计著称的、年轻现代的设计师，对这个91岁
的德国传统品牌而言或许有些奇怪，但他早已成为
家喻户晓的名字。2009年，当美国第一夫人米歇
尔·奥巴马选择穿着吴季刚的设计参加丈夫的就职
舞会，她再次巩固了吴季刚作为低调优雅大师的美
誉，使其成为这个以九十年时间塑造相近美学理念
之品牌的完美舵手。
当被Hugo Boss的首席品牌官Christoph
Auhagen接洽并邀请其担任该职位时，吴季刚的第
一个念头是“为什么是我？”。“这看似是最怪异的组
合，”他说。“我一直以为Boss只是一个男装品牌，对
于只有15年历史的女装系列并不熟悉。” 吴季刚被打
动的部分原因是Boss麦琴根总部令人动容的摩登建
筑，他将其描述为“《千钧一发》电影场景”—— 于是
他与品牌达成了共识。自加入品牌旗下，吴季刚为其
增添了几分犀利与酷感。他带来的最新系列，包括冰
白色层叠褶皱与衬衣、暗灰色与鸽子色连衣裙、时
髦黑色极简礼服与柔软的黄色工字背上衣与连衣
裙。
还有更多证据能展现Hugo Boss的宏图未来。
在2015年秋天品牌冠名赞助了一艘竞赛帆船。这艘
船上的图案，由备受尊崇的工业设计大师
Konstantin Grcic设计，将会参加2016年的
Vendée Globe帆船赛，由屡破纪录的水手Alex Thomson驾驶。在吴季刚担任创意总监后，Hugo
Boss的产品系列与门店数量都不断扩张，如今加上
对航海事业的新热情，Hugo Boss就如同扬帆远航
的旗舰。虽然听上去有些陈词滥调，但依然千真万
确——这是一间将目光牢牢聚焦于远方地平线的公
司。
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When You Shop The World,
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وإبداع علمة Hugo Boss بالحداثة. وبفضل Wu، وهومدير ابتكار الملبس النسائية منذ سنة 2013، بات هذا الخط باهرا
ومحددا للموضة. قد يبدو هذا المصمم الشاب المعاصر المشهور بالناقة البسيطة دخيل على علمة تجارية ألمانية عريقة انطلقت منذ 91 سنة، لكنه أصبح من أهل الدار. عززت السيدة الميركية الولى Michelle Obama شهرة Jason Wu كسيد الناقة
البسيطة عندما اختارت ارتداء ثوب من تصميمه خلل حفل تنصيب زوجها سنة 2009، مما جعل منه رمزا مثاليا لعلمة
تجارية أمضت تسعة عقود تتقن أسلوبا جماليا مماثل.Christoph Auhagen عندما طلب منه المدير التنفيذيأن يتولى هذا المنصب، أول سؤال جال في خاطر Wu كان: “لمأنا؟ بدا عرضا غريبا جدا إذ تعرف Boss على أنها علمة تجارية للملبس الرجالية ولست ملما جدا بالقسم النسائي الذي أسس
قبل 15 عاما ل غير.” لكن من المور التي دفعت Wu إلى Metzingen البارزة في Bossقبول العرض كانت حداثة مقر
والتي يصفها بـ”موقع تصوير فيلم Gattaca”. منذ انضمامه ز. إلى العلمة ، تمكن Wu من إضافة عنصري الدقة والتمي
ضمت مجموعته الخيرة طبقات وقمصان بالللون البيض الجليدي وفساتين باللون الرمادي الهادئ والفاتح وأثوابا سوداء بسيطة وقمصانا وفساتين مكشوفة الظهر جزئيا باللون الصفر الزاهي.وإن كنت تبحث عن المزيد من الدلة لتتأكد من تحقيق Hugo Boss مزيدا من النجاحات، نعلمك أنها رعت يختايحمل إسمها في خريف 2015. سيشارك اليخت المزخرف
بأعمال المصمم الصناعي المرموق Konstantin Grcic في سباق Vendée Globe لليخوت لعام 2016 بقيادة البحار
مكسر الرقام القياسية Alex Thomson. بفضل مدير البتكار Wu وعدد متزايد من المنتجات والمتاجر، أضف إلى ذلك هذه
التجربة البحرية الجديدة، يمكن القول إن Hugo Boss تبحر الى المام. قد يبدو ذلك تكرارا وإسهابا، لكن الحق يقال إن هذه
الشركة تضع المستقبل نصب عينيها.
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In Focus: Hugo Boss :32
Hugo Boss :تحت الجهر
تتباهى هذه العلمة التجارية اللمانية المرموقة والمعروفة في جميع أنحاء العالم ببدلتها المميزة، بتراثها العريق واضعة
Charlie Neidpath المستقبل نصب عينيها، تقرير
يجسد مقر Hugo Boss المذهل في Metzingen روح العلمة التجارية. في حين يعكس موقعها سحر البلدة اللمانية
النموذجية من خلل واجهات خشبية جزئيا وقبب مسننة من القرون الوسطى، وقد اتخذ مركز العلمة الرئيسي شكل هيكل
فولذي مطعم بزجاج لماع، وسط حدائق مشذبة بدقة صارمة: إنه رمز الحداثة البارزة في وجه التقاليد. ينطبق هذا الوصف على
علمة Hugo Boss بنفسها ،حيث أصبحت العلمة التجارية معروفة بالسلوب المعاصر والجديد في سوق لم يكن تاريخيا في Karl Lagerfeld صدارة صناعة الزياء. على الرغم من أصولاللمانية وهيمنة العلمات التجارية الرياضية مثل Adidas و
Puma، ل يمكن للمانيا أن تضاهي المملكة المتحدة وفرنسا
وإيطاليا في مجال السلوب الراقي.لطالما سعت Hugo Boss إلى تغيير ذلك. تم إطلق
العلمة التجارية كشركة ملبس صغيرة سنة 1924 وقد واجه م”سسها الذي يحمل السم نفسه عقبات مختلفة، بما في ذلك
الفلس، تاركا لصاحب المشروع ست “لت خياطة ل غير. ورغم كل الصعاب، واظب رجل العمال الملتزم على بناء العلمة
التجارية بثبات. اليوم وبعد أكثر من 90 عاما على تأسيسها، نمت Hugo Bossلتصبح واحدة من أكبر وأنجح علمات الزياء في
العالم، مع مجموعة تضم العديد من الخطوط تحت تسميات Hugo Boss، وتتراوح المنتجات بين البدلت المصممة بحسب
الطلب والعطور، ضمن شبكة دولية تضم أكثر من ألف متجر.ر الساليب عبر السنين وتأقلم العلمة على الرغم من تغي
مع البراغماتيكية اللمانية المشهورة، الملبس العملية هي التي حددت هوية Hugo Boss. بدأ الدار سنة 1950 بتصميم
بدلت للرجال وطور طرقا مبتكرة لنتاج قطع جاهزة؛ المر الذي اعتبر مهارة بارعة في حقبة كانت فيها صناعة البدلت العالية
الجودة عملية شاقة. لطالما أثرت الحماسة لتقديم الفضل لرجال العمال، ولحقا
لسيدات العمال، على كل ما صممه Hugo Boss على مرالسنين، بما في ذلك مجموعاته الراقية، وربما تعود شعبية العلمة العالمية الى قدرتها على تعديل أسلوب Boss بما
يتناسب مع مختلف السواق. تقدم مجموعات عروض الزياء بصمتها المعاصرة من خلل البدلت النيقة والخياطة النظيفة والقصات الضيقة والقطع المزودة بصف واحد من الزرار. مع
تأسيس خط Boss المخفض السعار سنة 1970، وسعت العلمة انتشارها لتصل إلى أولئك الذين كانوا يجدون الملبس الفاخرة
بعيدة المنال. سنة 1998، قدمت العلمة أول مجموعة ملبس نسائية لها وتميزت باتباعها موضة الملبس السلطوية بجرأة:
فساتين فضفاضة وبدلت أنثوية أنيقة وراقية توجهت بوضوح إلى جمهور جديد. اليوم، أصبحت العلمة التجارية أكثر حداثة
وديناميكية من أي وقت مضى. ويعود الفضل الكبير في ذلك الى مهارة المصمم المقيم في نيويورك Jason Wu، الذي طعم رقي
إذ شارك البعض منهم في ترسيخ كل ما هو غريب ومذهل. أعاد دار Hugo Boss تخيل رسوم الزهور في مجموعته للملبس
النسائية مستخدما ألوانا باهتة وداكنة وذلك كنقيض حيوي لللوان الخفيفة المهذبة أو النقوش التجريدية البارزة. أما في
الدار اللماني Aigner، فتجسدت الورود في قماش جاكار Christian وظهرت ثلثية البعاد. استوحى مدير البتكار
Beck من عالم البحار فجسد نجمة البحر والسلطعون واللوامس ،Jil Sander والطحالب والصداف في أقمشة مخرمة. ولدىترقطت القمصان والشورتات الرجالية بأزهار صغيرة في موجة
طيش نادرة بالنسبة إلى علمة تجارية تعرف بأسلوبها البسيط. يدخل عنصر التقنية أكثر فأكثر إلى ملبسنا، ليس من حيث
القمشة فحسب، بل أيضا على مستوى الهيكل والتصميم والرسوم. ولربما كان البتعاد عن كل ما هو معقد ومدني والتقرب من
ر خير تعبير عن المساحات الخارجية والطبيعة والحيوانات يعبرغبتنا بالتواصل بطريقة ما مع ذلك الجزء الخر من العالم.
مهما كانت السباب، تضفي هذه الرموز والرسوم المستوحاة من الطبيعة حسا من الفكاهة والغرابة حتى إلى أكثر القطع التزامابالمعايير؛ فمن بإمكانه رسم ابتسامة أكثر من قرد فرح يسترق النظر من بين الشجيرات؟ لب نداء البرية هذا الموسم فتسد
مجموعة ملبسك معروفا.
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ترجمة باللغة العربية
The Nature Of Fashion :26
طبيعة الوضة
من الشكال البارزة المستوحاة من الحيوانات إلى التصاميم المبتكرة المرتكزة على الزهار، يلجأ المصممون هذا الموسم إلى الطبيعة باحثين عن اللهام. إنها الموضة المثالية لمناخ أكثر دفئا،
Stephen Doig على حد تعبير
من خضرة حدائق Herrenhäusen العالمية الشهرة في هانوفر إلى حديقة Tiergarten الشاسعة في برلين وحديقة Englischer Garten على امتداد 900 هكتار في ميونخ،
يكسو الخضرار مدن ألمانيا في الربيع مبرزا حيويتها. تشكل منتزهات ألمانيا جزءا كبيرا من مساحات المدن ويزداد رونقها بجوار ناطحات سحاب شاهقة لماعة وأعمال هندسية مبتكرة.
ونتيجة التغيير الذي يحدثه الربيع في مجموعات ملبسنا أيضا، ل يسعنا إل أن نلحظ ما يقوم به المصممون من خلل حمل
الطبيعة إلى الداخل، مازجين أسلوبنا بقطع ترتكز على النبات والزهار.
غالبا ما يستخرج المصممون من الطبيعة عناصر جمالية لمجموعات الربيع/الصيف. والملفت للنتباه في ملبس الرجال
والنساء والكسسوارات في الربيع هو ترجمتها البارزة للعالم Louis في كواليس عرض أزياء Kim Jones الطبيعي. قال
Vuitton الرجالية لربيع/صيف 2016: “تمحورت المجموعة حول صراع الثقافات”. دمجت بين المعايير الجمالية الشرقية
والغربية. وأضاف: “تمحورت حول الرث الميركي مع بعض التأثيرات السيوية.” وقد تم التعبير عن هذا الدمج من خلل
رموز الطبيعة الستوائية في أماكن بعيدة فريدة من نوعها. يشتهر Jones بأسفاره المغامرة وقد تضمنت تصاميمه طيورا تجتاح
سترات حريرية وقمصانا وأزهار كرز تتفتح وقردة تطل بفضول من خلف أوراق الخيزران. ولطالما وجد Jones طرقا جديدة ليبعث
الحياة واللوان في مجموعاته الرجالية، وهو مجال أزياء يميل بالعادة إلى السلوب المن واللتزام بالمعايير بدل من اعتماد
الجرأة والرسوم.يقول Bill Prince، نائب محرر British GQ: “أعتقد
أننا نتجه إلى طريقة لبس حيوية مفعمة بالنقوش وحسالمغامرة. ول شك أن النقوش والصور المرتبطة بالنبات تشكل
جزءا منها.” فمن قد يطمح بعد اليوم إلى نزهة في الدغال في Kim حين يمكنه الشعور بحس المغامرة من خلل ملبس
Jones الرجالية الرائعة؟استمر Alessandro Michele لدى Gucci بثورته في
مجال الملبس الرجالية من خلل تصاميمه النثوية النسيابية المترجمة عبر قوة الطبيعة. التفت الباقات بشكل حلزوني على طول البدلت ودرزت الكاليل على القماش المخرم حول الياقات
فيما رفرفت الفراشات على القمصان وتزينت البدلت ببتلت Marc وجذوع أزهار ناصعة اللوان. لم يكن الوضع مختلفا لدىJacobs الذي أضاف إلى بعض بدلته وقمصانه الحريرية أزهارا
وبعض نقوش الفهد.Pولم يتفوق أحد على المصممين اللمان في هذا المجال،
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66 | PRODUCTS
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Blutsgeschwister jacket,
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+49 (0)711 7223 3268, blutsgeschwister.de
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 47
THINK PINK
Sustainable fashion brand Blutsgeschwister,
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