shea - AAK Personal Care · 2018-11-21 · Our range of solid and semi-solid shea butters offers...

shea innovations

turn functional into fabulous

from nature to naturalShea is the most widely used botanically derived emollient in cosmetics. Why? Because it enables personal care brands to answer both corporate and consumer desires for products that are kind to the planet and fabulous for the skin. But not all shea-based emollients are created equal. And nobody knows shea better than AAK, the lipid experts who first introduced shea to the cosmetics industry decades ago. Today AAK shea technology helps turn nature’s goodness into an increasing number of natural beauty products. How? By bringing you innovative ingredients that put functionality first, but also perform high in sustainability and social responsibility.

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From solids to liquids to bioactives, AAK brings you a full spectrum of high performance functional ingredients rooted in sustainably and responsibly sourced shea.

Top choice for new launchesResearch shows that shea remains the preferred botanical emollient in skin care and is the top choice for new product launches.

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Safe, stable and sophisticated – that’s what our advanced technology is all about.

The techniques we’ve pioneered over the years have optimised the physical and

sensory characteristics of crude shea butter to enable the creation of safe, stable and

sophisticated formulations. Formulations that help you meet the growing demand for

more natural beauty products. So, if your task is to create an irresistibly indulgent body

lotion, face cream or lip balm that your customers will feel good about buying and that

their skin will absolutely love, our shea innovations will make it a whole lot easier for

you to get it right.

[Source: Mintel]

innovationswith shea

Lipex Shea™ High stability semi-solid shea butter

Lipex SheaSoft™ Soft and creamy semi-solid shea butter

Lipex 102™ Solid refined shea butter

SHE AKERNELS

SOLID CRUDESHE A BUT TER

Lipex 205™ High stabillity liquid shea oil

Lipex SheaClear™ Clear liquid shea oil

Lipex SheaLiquid™ TRFully traceable semi-liquid shea oil

Lipex SheaLight™

Eco-designed liquid shea ester

Lipex SheaTris™

Bioactive shea triterpene concentrate

Lipex L’sens™

Highly polar semi-solid shea gel

SOLIDemollients

LIQUIDemollients

BIOACTIVEemollient

solid, liquid, or a splash of both?Our unique value-adding processing allows for the optimisation of crude shea

butter to improve suitability and broaden the range of opportunities for cosmetic use.

From solid and semi-solid ingredients offering high temperature stability, low odour

and improved colour, to liquid derivatives that eliminate crystallisation and enable both

clear and sprayable formulations, our shea innovations deliver just what you need so

that you can deliver just what you promise.

Our range of solid and semi-solid shea butters offers varying melting profiles,

crystallisation properties and formulation benefits. Lipex SheaSoft, for example,

is an advanced film-forming shea butter with documented skin-moisturising properties,

making it an excellent base when creating luxurious hand creams, body butters, etc.

(see formulation page 21). Our gel-like Lipex L’sens, on the other hand, is a unique

combination of soybean glycerides and shea butter unsaponifiables that brings

moisturising, conditioning and light-reflecting benefits, perfect for creating dazzling

and indulgent lip care products (see formulation page 17).

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Innovations with solid shea

Temperature (°C)

Lipex 102™ Lipex Shea™ Lipex SheaSoft™

So

lid F

at C

ont

ent

(%)

Melting profiles for solid shea butters

0

60

70

50

40

30

20

10

10

15 20 25 30 35 40

TE

WL

(g/h

* m

2)

Lipex SheaSoft™ improves skin barrier

0

11.3 11.1

11.5

10.9 10.7 10.5 10.3 10.1 9.9 9.7 9.5

BG ET 1h 2h 3h 4h

Lipex SheaSoft Hexadecane

More than just a marketing accentDid you know that shea is often used in high levels, appearing among the first natural ingredients found on product labels?

[Source: Mintel]

Like most of our products,both Lipex SheaSoft and Lipex L’sens

are COSMOS approved,making them ideal for creatingeco-conscious formulations.

Order free samples and downloadproduct guides at

aakpersonalcare.com

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0

800

900

700

600

500

400

200

300

100

LiquidSolid

Liquid shea saves time and energy

Time (min)

Energy (W/kg)

30% time saved

48% energy saved

Lipex SheaLight™ is a polar shea based ester

Lipex SheaLight™

Lipex 205™

Solid

Amount of residue

Thickness of residue

Slipperiness

% greasy

% powdery

What’s so special about liquid shea from AAK? Well, for starters, our shea-based

liquid ingredients can save you both time and energy, which makes them ideal for

creating low energy formulations (see formulation page 19). Moreover, they have been

specially developed to deliver improved skin feel and greater versatility. Our award-

winning Lipex SheaLight, for example, is an eco-designed, multifunctional shea butter

ester that can be used as a sensory modifier and performance enhancer. It reduces

viscosity, improves spreadability and lowers tackiness to deliver a unique silky-smooth,

powdery skin feel (see formulations pages 15, 19 and 21). And our Lipex SheaLiquid TR

has the advantage of being sourced through a fully traceable supply chain. That means

it can be mapped all the way from your end products to the women in West Africa

engaged with our direct shea sourcing programme (see formulations pages

15, 17 and 19).

Innovations with liquid shea

Lipex SheaLight is eco-designedand ECOCERT approved,

an excellent choice for modifying sensoryproperties in eco-conscious formulations.

Order free samples and downloadproduct guides at

aakpersonalcare.com

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Bioactivities of shea triterpene esters

Anti-inflammatory» Chemical induction

» UV induction

» Urban dust induction

Reduce irritation» Insect bites

Collagen preserving» Inhibit collagenases

» Reduce MMP-3 gene expression

Enhance skin barrier» Thicker and better defined epidermis

Triterpene estersin shea

bioactivesOur naturally-derived bioactive, Lipex SheaTris, is a well-characterised lipophilic

ingredient for safe use within beauty and personal care applications. Good skin

tolerance with well documented soothing and calming properties makes it well suited for

premium facial skin care, dermo-cosmetics and applications for sensitive skin.

Lipex SheaTris is a shea butter triterpene ester concentrate shown to protect against

environmental stress and premature skin ageing. It delivers high functionality at levels as

low as 0.5% and is suitable for producing ultra-light textures (see formulation page 15).

With all the bioactivity offered by triterpene esters, Lipex SheaTris is a tried and true

hero when it comes to protecting skin. It has been shown in tests to provide skin

with protection against collagen-degrading enzymes and inflammation caused by

urban dust, chemical and UV stress.

The multi-protecting hero for your skin

and download product guide at

aakpersonalcare.com

Ordersamples

exquisite formulations for high performance skin care

facemoisturiser

Shea Innovations DermaRich Face Moisturiser can be used morning and evening after cleansing to naturally replenish lipid levels and leave even the driest skin feeling beautifully smooth, soft and comfortable. Nourishing, protecting and easily absorbed, this delightful cream brings a truly pampering quality to one’s daily face care routine.

Technical benefits

Oil-in-water emulsion using our fully traceable liquid shea butter, Lipex SheaLiquid TR, as a base, supported by our eco-designed liquid shea ester, Lipex SheaLight.

Low-spreading Lipex SheaLiquid TR provides moisturising and conditioning proper-ties without the risk of crystallisation associated with standard refined shea butters.

Lipex SheaLight is used as a sensory enhancer to improve aesthetics, imparting a silicone-type effect and improving the overall end-user experience.

The bioactive shea triterpene concentrate Lipex SheaTris has been added for its proven skin strengthening and protecting properties.

Formula AAK-18-307 %

Aqua ad 100

Lipex SheaLiquid™ TR Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (or) Butyrospermum Parkii Oil 7.00

Lipex PreAct™ Canola Oil 2.50

Glycerin 3.00

Lipex SheaLight™ Shea Butter Ethyl Esters 2.00

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate 2.00

Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00

Lipex SheaTris™ Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract 1.00

Lipex Cellect™ Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides 1.00

Xanthan Gum 0.15

Sodium Gluconate 0.10

Shea InnovationsDermaRich Face Moisturiser

Download complete formulation at aakpersonalcare.com/shea-innovations

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liptreatment

This beautifully simple formula is based on a high concentration of Lipex L’sens – a unique combina-tion of soybean glycerides and shea butter unsaponifiables with softening, moisturising and light-reflecting prop-erties. Designed to soothe, soften and enhance the appearance of the lips, this balm can be used as both a day treatment and an overnight conditioning mask. Its rich, creamy texture adheres brilliantly to the lips and leaves them with a natural, healthy sheen.

Technical benefits

Easy balm formulation based on Lipex L’sens, an excellent vegetable-based alter-native to lanolin as it shares the same properties in regard to touch, structure, gloss, film forming and water-absorbing capacities.

With its high refractive index, Lipex L’sens adds shine and light-reflecting benefits to anhydrous formulations that are applied topically, making it particularly suitable for lip applications.

Other features of Lipex L’sens include high polarity, which ensures uniform pigment dispersion, as well as good film-forming properties that improve moisturisation and sensory benefits.


Lipex L’sens™ Soybean Glycerides (and) Butyrospermum Parkii ButterUnsaponifiables 60.00


Mango Butter Dimer Dilinoleyl Esters/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer 10.00

Cera Alba 2.50

Parfum q.s.

Shea InnovationsSmooth and Shine Lip Treatment


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body lotion

Women are at the heart of this caring, nourishing and eco-friendly body lotion designed to be used morning and evening to keep skin in optimal condition. Made with shea that is fully traceable from our production in Sweden to the women in West Africa engaged through our Kolo Nafaso direct shea sourcing programme, Shea Innovation Women Love Body Lotion delivers in all areas – environment, enrichment, empowerment and tender loving skin care.

Technical benefits

Lipex SheaLiquid TR does not require heating in the manufacturing process, making it an excellent choice for this kind of eco-friendly formulation.

Additionally enhanced with our eco-designed liquid shea ester, Lipex SheaLight, for increased absorption and for providing a silky soft skin feel.

Shea InnovationsWomen Love Body Lotion


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Aqua ad 100



Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate 3.50

Glycerin 3.00

Sorbitan Laurate 2.50

Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Xanthan Gum 1.00

Magnesium Aluminium Silicate 0.50

Sodium Gluconate 0.10

Parfum q.s.

Inspired by the feel of luxury fabrics on skin, our Shea Innovations Cashmere Soft Hand Care delivers the same indulgent touch thanks to a rich emollient base featuring Lipex SheaSoft. This luscious formula made from 97% natural ingredients effectively seals in moisture to rebalance and rehydrate the skin, leaving even the driest hands looking and feeling soothed, softened and restored.

hand care

Technical benefits

Simple and highly effective formulation based on a combination of high performance shea ingredients – soft and creamy Lipex SheaSoft and our eco-designed liquid shea ester, Lipex SheaLight.

The rapid crystallisation pattern of Lipex SheaSoft creates the smooth, rich base and forms a protective lipid barrier that reduces trans-epidermal water loss and seals in moisture when applied to the skin.

Lipex SheaLight is used as a sensory enhancer to improve aesthetics, imparting a silicone-type effect and improving the overall end-user experience.

Shea InnovationsCashmere Soft Hand Care


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Aqua ad 100

Lipex SheaSoft™ Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 12.00


Glycerin 5.00

Cetearyl Alcohol 3.50

Zea Mays Starch 3.50

Stearic Acid (and) Palmitic Acid 2.00

Glyceryl Stearate 1.00

Akoline SL™ Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate 0.75

Xanthan gum 0.50

Parfum q.s.

a responsible business choice

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» Nearly 16 million women in West Africa are involved in the collecting and trade of shea.

» Whenever you choose our shea-based ingredients for your formulations you make a positive difference to the communities that depend on shea for their livelihood.

Increasing demand from cosmetic manufacturers helps build a bigger, better shea

industry, halting rural-urban migration and securing the future of shea. As of 2017, our

Kolo Nafaso direct sourcing programme has reached over 115,000 women and actively

contributes to socio-economic development in the region. Based on Fair Trade

principles, the Kolo Nafaso programme is carried out in close collaboration with the

Global Shea Alliance and was recognised with a Sustainability Pioneer Award in 2017.

Visit aakpersonalcare.com/sustainability to learn more about how choosing shea from AAK contributes to sustainable development in West Africa.

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Did you know...

AAK Sweden ABAAK Personal CareSE-374 82 Karlshamn SwedenPhone +46 454 820 00

AAK USA Inc.499 Thornall St., 5th FloorEdison, NJ 08837 USAPhone +1 973 741 5009

AAK China Ltd.6F, Building 6, #3601 Dongfang Road Shanghai China 200125Phone +86 21 6466 7979

Contact information for our international distributors can be found at aakpersonalcare.com

It’s what we do. Push the boundaries of possibilities

through technologically advanced natural emollients.

It’s what we challenge you to do. Use our value-adding

solutions to develop innovative and superior quality formulations.

It’s what we can do together. Change perceptions of natural

by delivering sustainable performance without compromise.

2018

shea - AAK Personal Care · 2018-11-21 · Our range of solid and semi-solid shea butters offers...

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