Sharp The Book For Men - Style Manual SS14

SPR ING /SUMMER

2014

WHAT TO WEAR

NOW!COM PLETE

STYLE MANUALI N S I D E

L O O K B E T T E R • F E E L B E T T E R • K N O W M O R E

STYLE • SUITS ACCES S ORIES TIMEPIECES

TREND S • TRAVEL AUTOMOBILES

ADVICE

Style ManualSHARP: THE BOOK FOR MENSPRING/SUMMER 2014

188 Style Manual BFM.S/S.14 BFM.S/S.14 Style Manual 189

Introduction

Remember the Dream Team? When an aging Bird and Magic teamed up with an in-their-prime Jordan and Barkley to trounce

all over the rest of the world at the Barcelona Olympics? It felt as though the planets had aligned, a once-in-a-lifetime chance to witness something truly, inconceivably great. And that’s exactly what’s happening in menswear right now.

You see, all of the trends that have cropped up over the last few years—Ivy League prep, Italian sprezzatura, outdoorsy Americana, tough-as-nails workwear, stark minimalism, avant-garde Japanese streetwear—have converged and coalesced to make this one of the most exciting periods in men’s fashion ever. Everything is in play. Everything is cool. It’s like the Avengers, except with clothes. The possibilities are limitless.

Of course, having so many options at your fingertips isn’t just liberat-ing—it can also feel a little overwhelming. But, as always, that’s why we’re here. Consider this your roadmap to navigate the crowded thor-oughfares of style and make the most of this golden moment. Are you ready? It’s time for tip-off.

Yang-Yi Goh, Fashion Editor

Contents

Gentlemen, this is our moment.

Opposite Page:

Double-breasted suit ($2,150), cot-ton shirt ($270) and tie ($180) by Canali; pocket square ($115) by Ralph Lauren Black Label; shoes by Brioni ($1,100).

On-figure:

Photography:

Matt Doyle

Styling:

Christopher Campbell for Atelier Management

Grooming: Javier Romero Maribel CarerroMelanie Harris

Stylist’s Assistants:

Marc GeorgeYaYa Lora

Off-figure:

Photography:

Adrian Armstrong

Styling:

Mark John Tripp

Stylist’s Assistant:

Richard Jastrzebski

Fashion Editor’s

Photo:

Matt Barnes

190The Modern

Suit

192Shirts

and Ties

194The Mid-Layer

196Sportcoats

and Trousers

197Summer Scarves

198Dress Shoes

200Man

Bags

201Patterns

202Canadian

Fashion

204Weird

Colours

205The

Monochromatic Look

206The

Hawaiian Shirt

207Dip-Dye

208Casual Friday

210The

Suede Bomber

211Sunglasses

212Baseball

Style

213Workwear

214Rainwear

216Shorts

217Colour-

Blocking

218The

Pocket Tee

219The Polo

220Sneakers

222Denim

224Beachwear

226The Trench

Coat

227Nautical Stripes

228 Watches

230Belts

231Finishing Touches

SPORTSWEAR

•Heritage Brands

•Shawl-Collar Sweaters

•Sweats

•Shorts

•Work Boots

•Technical Outerwear

•Rugby Shirts

•Nautical

TAILORED WEAR

NOW

HIGH FASHION

STREETWEAR

BESPOKE

•Cutaway Collars

•Sportcoats•

Suiting

•Button Stance

•Minimalism

•Tennis Shoes

•Polo Shirts

•Braided Belts •

Oxford Cloth Button-downs

•Repp Ties

•Sprezzatura

•Hand-rolled

Ties

•Monograms

•Napoli

•Northampton Shoemakers

•Savile Row

•Monochrome

•Sneakers

•Baseball Caps

•Bomber Jackets

•Raw Denim

•Designer Tees

•Air Ties

•Pharrell Hats

•Runway •

Leather•

Layering

•Abstract

•Double-breasted

•Soft-Shouldered

Jackets

•Pocket Squares

•Cuffed Trousers

PREP


This is how

your suit

should look

in 2014.

It’s neither boxy and oversized like the suits of the ’90s, nor shrunken and skinny

like those of the ’00s. It just fits, and fits well. Let’s take a closer look at how and why.

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avy

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. But

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erni

ty, t

hank

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ghte

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ore

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nd

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ler s

tripe

s.

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ls a

re in

dica

tive

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with

sup

rem

e co

nfide

nce

and

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alth

y sw

agge

r. Th

at s

ound

s lik

e yo

u, ri

ght?

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sle

eves

sho

uld

be ju

st lo

ng e

noug

h th

at a

hal

f-inc

h to

an

inch

of s

hirt

cuff

is

expo

sed

whe

n yo

ur a

rms

are

by y

our s

ides

. N

o ex

cept

ions

.

Like

sid

e-ta

bs, c

uffe

d pa

nts

are

anot

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ld-

scho

ol m

ove

that

’s m

ade

a se

rious

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ebac

k in

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nt y

ears

. A o

ne-in

ch c

uff i

s st

anda

rd;

two

inch

es a

re fo

r the

raki

sh a

nd b

old.

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need

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ber y

our b

elt i

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orn-

ing—

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o th

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er

a sl

im, fl

atte

ring

silh

ouet

te th

at

does

n’t f

eel t

ight

or

cons

trict

ing.

Thre

e-bu

tton

suits

are

an

glin

g fo

r a c

ome-

back

, but

for n

ow, t

he

two-

butto

n re

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ns th

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.

Your

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ver y

our r

ear.

Wool two-button suit ($1,895) and cotton shirt ($350) by Ralph Lauren Black Label; silk tie ($215) by Ralph Lauren Purple Label; leather shoes ($475) by Ralph Lauren.


Welcome to stress-free busi-ness dressing.

All five of these dress shirts pair up perfectly with all five of these ties. That’s 25 different combinations. Just imagine the possibilities.

Shirts:

01)Cotton shirt ($225) by Paul Smith, available at Holt Renfrew

02)Cotton blend shirt ($1,120) by Prada

03)Cotton shirt ($100) by Bruun & Stengade

04)Cotton shirt ($165) by John Varvatos, at Harry Rosen

05)Cotton shirt ($250) by BOSS

Ties:

a)Silk tie ($150) by Sand

b)Linen tie ($95) by Ted Baker

c)Silk tie ($140) by Tiger of Sweden

d)Cotton tie ($50) by Bruun & Stengade.

e)Virgin wool tie ($95) by J.Lindeberg

01 03

02 04

05

a

b

c

d

e


Consider

the

mid-layer.

The easiest way to freshen up a standby

suit? Get creative with cardigans, sweatshirts and vests.

02 0301

ASK THE FASHION

EDITOR:

Q:What’s the

protocol for

dimpled tie

knots?

A: A well-defined tie dimple is elegant and pleasing to the eye, but it’s really only pos-sible with a necktie of a more traditional width—3” or above at its widest point. Anything slimmer, just knot it up tight and don’t worry about it.

Of course, no blurb on tie dimples would be complete without an obligatory mention of the double-dimpled Italian variation known colloquially as la sorchetta—meant to invoke the intimate folds of the female anatomy (oh Italians). Attempt with caution.

1)Cotton suit ($3,370) by Brunello Cucinelli; gingham print cot-ton shirt ($70) by Denim & Supply

2)Cotton suit ($3,370) and belt ($1,470) by Brunello Cucinelli; oxford shirt ($195) by Todd Snyder

3)Cotton suit ($3,370) and belt ($1,470) by Brunello Cucinelli; cotton shirt ($125) and tie ($60) by Michael Kors; pocket square ($95) by Ralph Lauren

Band Of Outsiders

$300

AMI$230

Levi’s$100

The Style Rule

I Live By

“The rule I live by—and the key

to my style— is simple:

effortlessness.” – Hiroshi Awai, designer, CREEP


Loud Sportcoat + Solid Trousers

or Solid Sportcoat + Loud Trousers.

It’s a pretty straightforward equa-tion, but live by it this summer and

you’ll always be the freshest dressed gent in the room.

01)Cotton-silk knit polo ($140) by Tommy Hilfiger; linen-blend trousers ($595) by Z Zegna; silk pocket square ($205) by Ermenegildo Zegna.

02)Linen-cotton sportcoat ($350) and cotton shirt ($100) by Tommy Hilfiger.

01 02

Worn loosely beneath a linen sportcoat, a breezy,

lightweight muffler will lend your look a carefree Mediterra-nean air.

You canpull offa summerscarf.

01)Modal-cashmere blend scarf ($150) by J.Lindeberg

02)Rayon-linen blend scarf ($315) by Dolce & Gabbana, at Holt Renfrew

03)Viscose scarf ($80) by Diesel

04)Cashmere-silk blend scarf ($1,095) by Loro Piana, at Harry Rosen

05)Modal scarf ($195) by Paul Smith, at Holt Renfrew

06)Wool-silk blend scarf ($640) by Balenciaga, at Holt Renfrew

0102

03

04

05

06

Sand$650

Canali$580


The age of dress shoe maximalism is over.

Sure, that flashy pair of double

monk-straps with intricate full-length brogue detailing still has a place in your wardrobe. But for our money, a pair of simple, plain-toed oxfords like these will be the best footwear purchase you make in 2014.

Footwear: A Usability Chart

Specialized Versatile

Formal

Informal

Alden$495 at

Lost &

Found

The Saddle Shoe: A prep classic, best paired with patch madras pants and a gold-but-toned navy blazer. Bass, $120 at Getoutside

The Driving Moccasin: Beautiful, comfortable and absolutely impracti-cal for wear anywhere outside the driver’s seat. Tod’s, $470

The Loafer: An excellent mid-range op-tion for occasions that call for something a step above casual, but a step below business-formal.Prada, $795 at Harry Rosen

The Monk-strap: Slightly less dressy than its laced-up coun-terparts, but also more visually arresting.BOSS, $545The Cap-toe:

The essential dress shoe. Looks great with suits and slacks; a hard sell with jeans.Salvatore Ferragamo,

$540 at Harry Rosen

The Wing-tip: Multi-talented, adaptable and reliable. Perfect for everyday wear. Walk-Over, $410

ASK THE FASHION

EDITOR:

Q: I hate laces.

Is it ok to wear

slip-on shoes at

work?

A: If you have the kind of job that requires you to wear a full business suit every day of the week, then I’m afraid the answer is “no.” Despite popular belief, loafers of any kind—tas-seled, penny or Belgian—aren’t quite dressy enough for a traditional office setting. Allow me to suggest, how-ever, a perfectly reasonable compromise: buckles. A pair of cap-toe monk-straps will possess the formality your occupation requires, with none of the awkward fumbling about with laces that you despise so heartily.

The Style Rule

I Live By

“No shorts for everyday wear.

Only at the beach or on vacation.” – Brett Viberg,

Creative Director, Viberg Boots


Man bags: Move over,

Stripes and

Plaids.

Camouflage, florals and polka dots aren’t

just trends anymore—they’ve graduated to full-fledged staples. Just be sure to limit yourself to one piece per outfit to avoid a pattern overload.

Double-breasted jacket ($665) and denim shirt ($245)

by AMI; silk pocket square ($195) by Ermenegildo

Zegna; suede derbies ($395) by A.P.C.

A CONCISE VISUAL GLOSSARY

The Portfolio: No handle? No problem. Perfect for toting documents and a tablet around in style. Brunello Cucinelli, $1,300

The Weekender: Time to let go of the nylon gym bag and travel carrying something with a touch more class.Salvatore Ferragamo, $1,500

The Tote: Dressed up in smooth leather, a tote like this can go everywhere from the cottage to the grocery store to the office in a snap. BOSS, $950

The Briefcase: Still the reigning champion of business-appropriate baggage. This attractive, sturdy version will age into a beloved family heirloom. Prada, $3,000

The Backpack: Refined enough for a grown man to wear without looking like a schoolkid. Gucci, $3,350

AMI$280

THE RIGHT WATCH

Panerai Luminor Base 8 Days Acciaio$7,500

More Patterned Goodness

Drake’s$100

The Grunion Run$25

Paul Smith, $35

Carhartt WIP, $100


Buy Canadian.It’s never been easier to wear your patriotism on your sleeve. Here are 10 on-the-rise homegrown labels you should know.

Dolbeau Hometown: Montreal, QCEstablished: 2009

Neckties and pocket squares handcrafted in Montreal’s oldest tie factory from beautiful Japanese fabrics. Or as we like to call it: straight-up perfection.dolbeau.ca

Arc’teryx Veilance Hometown:Vancouver, BC Established: 2009

Sleek, ultramodern high-performance outerwear is the name of the game at this high-end, design-minded branch of vaunted ski outfitters Arc’teryx.veilance.arcteryx.com

NEEDS&WANTSHometown: Toronto, ON Established: 2013

In less than a year, Toronto artist Sean Brown’s young label has built a steady international buzz by shrewdly reimagining iconic silhouettes: varsity jackets stretched to topcoat length; flannel shirts with elongated fishtail backs.needsandwantsstudios.com

18 Waits Hometown: Toronto, ON Established: 2009

A hearty blend of rugged, woodsy Canadiana and classic British tailor-ing. Think artfully wrinkled linen suits, hickory-striped work shirts and selvedge chambray shorts.18waits.com

United Stock Dry Goods Hometown:Toronto, ON Established: 2012

United specializes in basics done to perfection, like trim, hardy jeans made from raw Japanese denim, or fitted oxford shirts that’ll take a beating and last a lifetime.unitedstockdry goods.com

WANT Les Essentiels De La Vie Hometown: Montreal, QCEstablished: 2005

Recently crowned Accessory Designers of the Year at the inaugural Canadian Arts and Fash-ion Awards, twin brothers Dexter and Byron Peart design streamlined, functional totes, briefcases, backpacks and weekenders.wantessentiels.com

Klaxon HowlHometown:Toronto, ONEstablished: 2005

Drawing on his vast collection of vintage military gear, design-er Matt Robinson faithfully recreates mid-century work shirts and WWII army chinos in fresh seasonal fabrics.klaxonhowl.com

Viberg BootsHometown: Victoria, BC Established: 1931

It’s the oldest brand on this list by al-most 80 years, but stalwart bootmaker Viberg still counts as “up-and-com-ing” in our book, thanks to its recent push into the fashion market with a stylish new line of snuff suede chukkas and painted horsehide service boots. viberg.com

Raised by Wolves Hometown:

Montreal, QC Established: 2008

Contemporary streetwear at its fin-est: quirky patterned button-downs, slim tees with printed pockets and a mod-ish range of caps.raisedbywolves.ca

Reigning Champ Hometown: Vancouver, BCEstablished:2007

The sportier, more casual line from Vancouver’s CYC Design Corp, who also own the much-heralded menswear label wings + horns. A well-designed collection of hefty fleece sweats and heavyweight tees that are several giant steps up from the stuff you currently lounge in.reigningchamp.com


Try weirder colours.

Sometimes,

one colour

is all you

need.

Done right, going head-to-toe mono-

chromatic can make a stronger, punchier state-ment than any amount of foppish pattern mixing. That doesn’t necessarily mean wearing everything in the exact same tone; multiple shades of the same colour will do just fine. Just don’t try it with black, unless you enjoy being mistaken for a bouncer.

Shirt ($475) by Valentino; patent leather

loafers ($229) by Tommy Hilfiger.

Virgin wool blazer ($600) and linen knit sweater ($160); sneak-ers ($260) by A.P.C.

There’s nothing wrong with basic blues, reds and greens. But tilt your palette just the slightest bit off-kilter—into the realm of teals,

salmons and chartreuses—and suddenly you’ve upgraded your standard four-cylinder wardrobe to a supercharged V8.

United Arrows3-28-1 Jingumae, Tokyo, Japan

The Harajuku location of this nationwide Japanese chain is a veritable menswear paradise, brimming with the kind of versatile, supremely stylish stuff that dreams—and proper wardrobes—are made of. united-arrows.co.jp

The Coolest Men’s Stores

in the World Valentino(suit)

$2,000

How It’s Done:

Pattinson, R.

THE RIGHT WATCH

Thomas Sabo$820

The Style Rule

I Live By

“The most impor-tant piece of advice I give guys is about dressing to your body type. Not everyone can pull off every detail of the latest fashion trend. If you learn what looks good on you (fits, colours, silhouettes, etc.) and what doesn’t, you can always figure out ways to look stylish.”

– Sam Shipley, designer, Shipley & Halmos

Strellson$200


Trip out on dip-dye.It’s a more sophisticated relative of tie-dye (minus the associations to Jerry Garcia et al), and it’s everywhere right

now. Gradient-laden oxfords, sweatshirts and polos are all great options, but it’s this indigo-dipped trucker jacket that really has our attention.

White: The shade you need this season

Say aloha

to the

new

Hawaiian

shirt.

The concoctors of cool at Prada

took the tacky Parrothead favourite and gave it a chic modern makeover. Wear it to dinner or out to the bar—not at the beach.

Linen pants ($1,050, part of suit) by BOSS; woven

loafers ($1,100) by Bottega Veneta.

Cotton shirt ($225) and chino pants ($265) by Band of Outsiders.

Prada$1,375

Band of Outsiders

$895

This season, I’m

most excited to

wear…

“We’re working on a denim jacket prototype out of

our trademark shadow selvedge—

it’s got an indigo warp and black weft. The fabric

starts out as a deep navy and fades to

a high-contrast bright blue over

time, so it should be looking pretty

good by fall.”

– Andrew Chen, co-founder, 3sixteen

THE RIGHT WATCH

Bremont Solo W/H$4,100

ASK THE FASHION

EDITOR:

Q: How do you

fold a pocket

square? When do

you just make an

actual square

and when do you

use the more

flowery kind?

A: First things first: If your hanky is white, it should be folded into a tight, neat square that just peeks out of the pocket. No exceptions. It’s clean and classic and looks good in almost any situation.

If you’ve got a patterned or piped square, there are more available options to choose from. As a general rule, stay away from any geometric, origami-like folds—the kind that result in between three to five perfectly even peaks. You’ll wind up looking like you’ve tried too hard.

Instead, keep things simple and do what feels right. On days you’re feeling more con-servative, you can revert back to the basic square. A small pouf is a good way to show off the pattern without being too showy. But for my money, the most expressive way to wear a handkerchief is to grab it from the middle and shove it into the pocket, allowing the points to splay about haphaz-ardly. As messy as it sounds, you’ll appear natural, confident and full of grace.


Leather Soul2233 Kalakaua Avenue #301, Honolulu, HI United States

It’s tough to compete with the natural beauty of Honolulu, but Leather Soul’s show-stopping assortment of handcrafted shoes from traditional makers like Alden, Saint Crispin’s, John Lobb and Tricker’s makes for a worthy contender. leathersoulhawaii.com

The Coolest Men’s

Stores in the WorldTreat

Casual

Friday

with the

respect

it

deserves.

That doesn’t you mean you can’t still look and

feel comfortable to end the workweek. It just means doing away with the slovenly hoodies and shapeless cargos—basically anything you would’ve worn while skateboarding in junior high—in favour of trim chinos and soft-shouldered jackets.

Wool sport jacket ($3,185), linen vest ($830),

cotton shirt ($580), cotton chinos ($665) and

linen pocket square ($155) by Brunello Cucinelli;

sneakers ($110) by Nike.

This season, I’m most

excited to wear…

“I’m looking forward to getting a pair of our new all-white high-top sneakers. We changed them up this year with a tumbled leather upper that looks really good.” – Davidson Manaloto, designer, wings + horns

THE RIGHT WATCH

Meistersinger Singular$4,475

Three more waysto dress down atthe office

With a rakish spread collar and tailored fit, this is the chambray shirt in its most polished form. Eton, $245

Red chinos? Been there, done that. Bright orange trousers with a slight satin sheen? Not so much. Acne Studios, $230

The reigning MVP of Casual Fri-days? Shawl collar cardigans. Wear one like you would a sportcoat—with a dress shirt and tie, or over a button-down and vest. This one, loose-knit from linen and wool, is the ideal weight for the warmer months. Todd Snyder, $395


Your favourite winter

jacket, spring-ified.The bomber jacket was a must-have piece of outerwear this past winter, and designers are keeping the party rolling by ripping out

the lining and dressing it up in supple, lightweight, irrefutably handsome suede.

Sunglasses are getting stranger.

And that’s a good thing. As much as we love a good pair of black Wayfarers or McQueen-esque Persols, things were starting to get a little staid out there. It was

high time for a little outlandishness—a return to the flashy ’70s shades favoured by guys like John Lennon—and that’s precisely what designers delivered this summer.

Cotton shirt ($185) by BOSS Orange; cot-ton chinos ($75) by Dockers; leather belt ($70) by Tommy Hilfiger.

Oliver Peoples, $440 at Holt Renfrew

Mykita, $595 at Josephson Opticians

Oliver Spencer, $345

Prada, $390

Dita, $500 at Josephson Opticians

Matsuda, $405 at Josephson Opticians

EVATIK, $235

Tom Ford, $320 at Holt Renfrew.

How It’s Done:

Richards, K.

The Style Rule

I Live By

“I refuse to wear graphic t-shirts of any kind. There is simply no value in them at all. Some silly design printed on your chest doesn’t make the cotton softer, doesn’t make the construction bet-ter, doesn’t make the shirt last longer—so why pay extra for it? I prefer a plain, thick, soft cotton shirt that’s made in Canada any day. Come to think of it, if you are a young pro-fessional, don’t wear a t-shirt at all. Get yourself a button-down shirt if you want to be respected and taken seriously.”

– Brandon Svarc, founder, Naked & Famous

Strellson$800

Blue Button Shop1499 Dundas Street W, Toronto, ON, Canada

Lovers of Japanese denim, rejoice! Blue But-ton Shop stocks all the obscure, impossible-to-find brands from the Land of the Rising Sun you’ve drooled over online, right in the heart of downtown Toronto. bluebuttonshop.com

The Coolest Men’s

Stores in the World


When did baseball become

so stylish?

Over the last couple of seasons, America’s pastime has stolen its way directly into the world of fashion. Minimalist,

designer-tweaked updates on dugout jackets, jerseys and caps should all be in your casualwear starting rotation this season.

A few years back, the biggest trend in

menswear was rocking age-old, blue-collar staples like chambray work shirts and engineer-striped chore coats. Those fingerprints are still all over the current crop of designer collections, but it’s subtler now, less literal—which means you can enjoy all that utilitarian, hardwearing goodness without having to look like an actual turn-of-the-century factory worker.

Workwear

has

evolved.

Wool pants ($350) by 3.1 Phillip Lim; cotton t-shirt ($80) by T by Alexander Wang.

Cotton pants ($495) and cotton t-shirt

($575) by Valentino.

This season, I’m

most excited to wear…

“I’m really feeling the mix of athletic and luxury

pieces right now, and the neoprene hoodie from our spring ’14 collection

defines that for me.”

– Ariel Ovadia, designer, Ovadia & Sons

Four More Baseball-Inspired Pieces

The Raglan TeeS&H Athletics

$75

The JerseyUPXUNDR

$75

The Cap Ebbets Field Flannels

$40

Dover Street Market17-18 Dover St., London,United Kingdom

Founded by legendary Comme Des Garcons designer Rei Kawakubo, Dover Street Market now has outposts in Tokyo and New York, but its original, six-floor London location re-mains the be-all and end-all of edgy, forward-thinking fashion. doverstreetmarket.com

The Coolest Men’s

Stores in the World

The PantsMuttonhead

$80

3.1 Phillip Lim

$1,295

Valentino$2,450


Linen-satin blend pants ($1,210) and alligator belt ($880) by Tom Ford; ex-tra fine wool sweater ($280) by A.P.C.

Balibaris14 Rue de Marseille, Paris, France

In a city overflowing with chic shops, Balibaris stands a cut above for its elegant, inimitably French collection of sharply cut suiting and clean, graphic knitwear. balibaris.com


in the World

Drizzly days won’t feel as grey when you can look

forward to wearing a jacket this fetching.

Invest in a slicker

slicker.

Fourways to stay dry in style

Most rain boots suck. These don’t, thanks to a svelte, low-cut desert boot silhouette. Hunter, $150

The Style Rule I Live By

“As a barber of almost a decade, my most important style rule is to always keep it tidy. If you’re going to grow a beard, keep it well groomed, if you’re going to have a textured hair cut, keep it organized by using product. Going for the tradi-tional gentleman’s haircut? Always keep it sharp; your partner will be impressed.” – Alex Berry, head barber, Garrison’s By The Park Barbershop

An umbrella worthy of a modern gent: sobre and serious on the outside, a touch of whimsy hidden within. London Undercover, $250

Keep your laptop safe and secure from the showers in this eye-catching, entirely waterproof tote. SWIMS, $270

Don’t get your head wet. In lieu of a hood, this water-resistant waxed cotton cap will do the trick. Archival Clothing, $50

Tom Ford$2,990


Behold,

the

perfect

pair of

shorts.

A seven-inch inseam, a versatile

(but not boring) colour, and a smart new take on the cargo pocket.

Linen-blend suit ($4,125) By Hermès.

Sid Mashburn1198 Howell Mill Rd NW #112, Atlanta, GA, United States

The pitch perfect tailored-wear at this much-heralded Atlanta outfitter marries Southern preppi-ness with Italian fit and flair. sidmashburn.com


in the World

ASK THE FASHION

EDITOR:

Q: Is it ap-

propriate to go

sockless with a

suit at a summer

wedding?

A: As long as it isn’t black tie formal—and, if you’re the groom, you’ve gotten permis-sion from the bride—go nuts. A word of advice: socklessness is best served with trousers that are tapered and hemmed just the slightest bit short, so that the hems barely graze the tops of your shoes.

Cotton button down shirt ($450), belt (Price Upon Request) by

Michael Bastian; sneakers ($770) by Billy Reid for K Swiss; sun-

glasses ($110) by Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane.

Paneling isn’t just for

’70s basement walls.

A colour-blocked button-down is your ticket to minimalist, fashion-forward cool.

The Style Rule

I Live By

“My stepfather always told me that it’s better to have only a few things of quality than lots of expend-able rubbish. I believe this is the right approach.” – Patrick Johnson, own-er, P. Johnson Tailors

More Colour- Blocked Stuff

Jack Space$200

Jack Purcell$60

Michael Bastian$395

Oumlil$550


Don’t ask us why, but there’s something about a pocket on a t-shirt that just looks great—even if you’ll never actually put anything in it.

Give your tee some storage space. Step up your polo game.

01 02 03 04 05 06

01)Silk t-shirt ($545) by Balenciaga, at Holt Renfrew

02)Polyester-cotton t-shirt ($100) by John Varvatos, at Harry Rosen

03)Cotton t-shirt ($160) by Burberry, at Harry Rosen

04)Cotton t-shirt ($110) by A.P.C., at Holt Renfrew

05)Cotton t-shirt ($75) by J.Lindeberg

06)Cotton t-shirt ($130) by Jack Spade, at Holt Renfrew

Unionmade493 Sanchez St., San Francisco, CA, United States

A West Coast mecca for hip contemporary menswear, pulling together a massive array of the coolest clothing, housewares and read-ing materials from across the globe: leather bracelets from Italy’s Il Bisonte; chunky-soled footwear from Paraboot in France; and hand-some, classic outerwear made in San Fran-cisco by Golden Bear. unionmadegoods.com

The Coolest Men’s

Stores in the World

Leave the crocodiles and ponies to everyone else, and go for broke with a polo

doused in brash, convention-breaking attitude.

Cotton trousers ($380) by Canali; bracelets ($145) by JVDF; leather penny loafers ($295) by Tommy Hilfiger.


excited to wear…

“Honestly, the item I’ll be wearing more than anything

else is a simple, great-quality tee. After such a long, rough winter, it’ll be

nice to not have to wear five layers of clothing!”

– Alex Danino, owner, Rooney Shop

Bottega Veneta$590


Every kind. Classic canvas tennis shoes, high-tech

performance trainers, flashy designer kicks, throwback vintage runners, high-tops, low-tops, slip-ons, whatever. They’re all in style. Pick yours, and wear them with everything from jeans to dress pants. 0

1) Lacoste, $125 02) Converse x PLAY COMME de GARCONS, $120, at Gravity Pope 03) Lanvin, $950, available at Harry Rosen 04) Maison Martin

Margiela, $490, at Harry Rosen 05) Prada, $550 06) Tiger of Sweden, $200 07) Nike, $110 08) Adidas, $110, at Gravity Pope 09) Vans, $50, at Get

Outside 010) Bottega Veneta, $790, at Holt Renfrew; 011) Lacoste, $135 012) Nike, $130 013) Vans x Diemme, $420 014) New Balance, $200 015)

Adidas, $95, at Gravity Pope

Sneakers have never been cooler.

01 02 03 04

05

08 09

012 013 014 015

010 011

06 07


Four Horsemen Shop635 Johnson St., Victoria, BC,Canada

Four Horsemen hosts a well-edited selection of covetable brands like Norse Projects and Dana Lee, but the boutique’s locally produced in-house label is what makes it truly worth a visit. fourhorsemen.ca


in the World

How It’s Done:

Gaye, M.

Washed

jeans are

back.

Denim, like everything else

in fashion, moves cyclically. And right now, heavily stone-washed dungarees like these are very much in style.

Cotton-linen sport coat ($1,895) by Ermenegildo

Zegna; cotton shirt ($385) by Michael Bastian;

linen pocket square ($155) and leather belt

($755) by Brunello Cucinelli; snuff suede shoes

($750) by Ralph Lauren.

The rest of the denim spectrum

Shipley & Halmos

$235

Raw: Unwashed and unem-bellished. The ultimate

basic. They look crisp and uniform to start, and get

infinitely better after a few months of heavy wear.

Kamikaze Attack, $270

Black: Best worn form-fittingly slim with a short-sleeved Henley, beat-to-shit boots and a heavy dose of rock star attitude. United Stock Dry Goods, $180

Lightweight: On the stickiest days of

summer, a pair of feathery 10-ounce denim dungarees

will ensure you stay fresh. Naked & Famous,

$160

White: Of all the denim hues, white makes the boldest state-ment, but it’s also in many ways the most versatile. Levi’s, $80


Go bold

at the

beach.

We’ve long been extoling the virtues of

understated swimwear, but this summer it’s time to let loose and get a little wild. These brash, cheekily printed trunks from Orlebar Brown are a great place to start.

Cotton polo shirt ($385) by Michael Bastian; tortoise sunglasses

($95) by Warby Parker; bracelets ($145 and $4,130) by JVDF.

Four More Trunks

That’ll Get You

Noticed

Saturdays Surf NYC $75

Bather Trunk Co.$85

RVCA$65

Joe Fresh$25

SurfsideEssentials

The difference between a bath towel and a beach towel? Style, man, style. Nautica, $45

When the sun sets and the cool ocean air breezes in, this washed, vintage-style Nantucket red sweat-shirt will keep you comfortable. Todd Snyder + Champion, $130

Friends don’t let friends wear flip-flops. These waterproof slip-on sneakers are a tasteful alternative. Native, $50

THE RIGHT WATCH

Jean Richard Aquascope$3,200

How It’s Done:

Flynn, S.


excited to wear…

“We did these really great stretch nylon swim shorts. They’re cute. You know, when your bum starts to go, you can’t wear a speedo.” – Dean Caten, designer, DSquared2

Orlebar Brown$590


C’H’C’M’ 2 Bond St., New York, NY, United States

Designers from big retail chains are known to stalk this hidden New York gem for “inspira-tion,” thanks to its ahead-of-the-curve medley of goods from designers that you’ve never heard of, but are about to fall in love with. chcmshop.com


in the World

Cotton suit ($900) by BOSS; leather belt ($100) by Strellson; leather

boat shoes (price upon request) by Tommy Hilfiger.

Cream-and-blue is timeless, of

course, but it’s also obvious. A nautical pullover with a pinch more personality—like this blaze orange number, for instance—will lend some serious swashbuckling attitude to a crisp cotton suit.

Expand

your sailor-

striped

horizons.

How It’s Done:

Caine, M.

Wool-linen two-button suit ($4,375), cotton shirt ($450), silk tie ($235) and cotton-silk pocket square ($125) by ISAIA.

ISAIA(Price upon

request)

At first glance, this trim, tailored trench looks as archetypal as ever, like something Fred Astaire would’ve worn on the

silver screen. A closer look, however, reveals the colour has been refreshed ever so slightly: the typical light tan has been inflected with delicate tones of sherbet orange. It’s subtle, but effective.

If it ain’t broke…

only fix it a little.

ASK THE FASHION

EDITOR:

Q: What’s the

right length for

a trench coat

these days? I

haven’t bought

one in years,

and the one I

have goes down

to my knees.

A: Most modern trenches and topcoats tend to fall around the mid-thigh area (like the one on the left, for in-stance). But while the shorter rise is a function of the recent shift towards more closely cut, tailored silhouettes among designers, the actual length of the coat has very little bearing on its modishness and overall stylishness.

As long as your trench fits you well by today’s standards—meaning that it fits comfortably over a suit, hugs your shoulders and is trim through the waistline—then even if it reaches past your knees, it won’t look the least bit outdated.

Orlebar Brown$150


Is t

his

for..

.

Wha

t do

yo

u w

ear

to w

ork

?Start

NO

How to choose your next watch.A FLOWCHART

YES

TAG Heuer

Carrera Calibre

5 Day-Date

$2,900 Seiko Le Grand

Sport Perpetual

Calendar Kinetic

$695

Louis Vuitton

Tambour GMT

$4,450

Vacheron

Constantin

Patrimony

Traditionnelle

Chronograph

Perpetual Calendar

$84,600

Omega James

Bond 007 50th

Anniversary

Seamaster 300M

$5,000

Guess

$95

Movado Museum

$495

Kenneth Cole

$130

Tudor Heritage

Black Bay

Price Upon Request

Piaget

Altiplano

$26,000

IWC Portuguese

Chronograph

$7,900

Longines Lépine

180th Anniversary

$2,450

88 Rue du Rhone

Double 8 Origin

Chrono

$910

Weekdays

Weekends

Wha

t ar

e yo

u do

ing?

Traveling

Driving

Partying

Backyard

BBQ

Wes Anderson

film festival

Black

tie gala

Boating

Wetsuit

Jeans

Work for

the company

Do

yo

u...

Who

are

yo

ur

styl

e ic

ons

?

Ernest Hemmingway

Le Corbusier

The Fresh Prince

Suit

Do

es y

our

offi

ce h

ave.

..

Three

Walls

Four

Walls

Private

Bathroom

Miss Moneypenny

and a

Walther PPK

Wha

t ki

nd o

f ev

ent

are

you

goin

g to

?

Own the

company

Is t

his

your

firs

t w

atch

?


The belt is the new tie.

At the moment, there’s no accessory more essential. It’s time to step outside your brown and black leather comfort zone.

01

03

02

04

05

01)Wax braided belt ($178) by Strellson

02)Striped belt ($160) by Prada.

03)Suede camo!belt ($110) by J.Lindeberg

04)Turquoise cotton woven belt ($85) by Diesel

05)Woven elas-tic belt ($185) by Anderson’s

The Armoury307 Peddler Building, 12 Peddler St., Hong Kong,China

A new school haberdashery with an old world vibe, stocked to the brim with enough soft-shouldered sportcoats, hand-rolled neckties and suede monkstraps to make an Italian sartorialist weep with joy. thearmoury.com

The Coolest Men’s

Stores in the World

Stuff That Will Never Be Cool

Despite what was implied in the introduction, there are certain things

that will always be terrible.

Fanny packs • Jean shorts • Socks and

sandals • Mock necks • Deep V-neck tees • Zip-off cargo pants • Crocs • Anything leather that’s not outerwear or foot-wear • Cowboy boots (unless you work on a ranch) • Anything Don Cherry has ever worn •

Ironic t-shirts

Everylast detailmatters.

So take pride in—and have some fun with—the little things. Opt for finishing touches bristling

with eye-catching eccentricities.

1)Brass ri-fle tie bar ($50) by In God We Trust, at Elevator

2)Swarovski crystal cuf-flinks ($165) by Duchamp London, at Harry Rosen

3)Gold collar stays ($15) by Tyler & Tyler, at Elevator

4)Brass brace-let ($185) by Miansai, at Elevator

5)Sterling silver money clip ($155) by Prada, at Harry Rosen

6)Sterling silver keychain ($415) by David Yurman, at Holt Renfrew

7)Silk tie ($125) by Oliver Spencer

02

03

06

05

04

01

07

Sharp The Book For Men - Style Manual SS14

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Transcript of Sharp The Book For Men - Style Manual SS14