Training Secrets from the World's Best Rock Climber

Chris Sharma may be 32, but hes still pushing the sports limits as a pioneer of deep-water soloing.

By: Ian LandauJul 29, 2013

Chris Sharma keeps on pushing the sport forward at the age of 32 Photo: Courtesy Miguel Riera

Chris Sharma has been dominating the sport of rock climbing almost since the day he took it up at the age of 12.

In 1996, at 14, he took home top honors at Bouldering Nationals. A year later he became the first person ever to

complete a 5.14c climb in North America (Necessary Evil in Utahs Virgin River Gorge). And just this March, a

month before turning 32, he became just the second climber to conquer the 5.15c climb La Dura Dura in Spain,

currently the hardest sport climbing route in the world.

After nearly two decades at the top, Sharma is far from done. His latest venture is bringing the thrill of deep

water soloing to a competition format. To that end, hes organized the new Psicobloc Masters Series competition,

the first of its kind in the U.S.

Held July 31 to August 2 in conjunction with the Outdoor Retailer summer show in Salt Lake City, Utah, the

Psicobloc event features climbers going head to head on a custom-built wall perched over the 750,000-gallon

freestyle skiing aerial training pool at Park Citys Utah Olympic Park. I think in a lot of ways it could be a before

and after for competition climbing, Sharma says of the new highly accessible and thrilling format.

Its Not Supposed to Be Easy

As climbers, we're always looking for something thats just past our level. Sometimes we get frustrated because

its too hard, but our goal is to try to do something that is beyond our limits. If it feels easy then were not actually

at our limit.

Go Out and Climb. A Lot

Ill usually climb four days a week. Other times when Im just having fun and climbing a little more recreationally,

Ill climb six days in a row.

Ditch the Gym

Ive never actually trained. Ive always just been a climber. Some people like to work in the climbing gym or

follow a program and then theyll go out and try to achieve their goals on rock. Ive always just gone straight out

onto the rock and tried these projects over and over again.

Diet by Feel

Ive never followed a strict diet. Im not a vegetarian, but I dont eat a lot of red meat. I try to eat a lot of fish and

Ill eat some chicken and turkey. Once in a while, Ill have a hamburger. Ill have a beer or glass of wine for sure.

I just gauge it by how I feel.

Supplement Sparingly

Over the last few years, Ive been taking supplements like glucosamine and chondroitin, plant-based vitamins,

and fish oils from Nutriex. When Im climbing year-round punishing my body all the time it does give me a little bit

of an edge.

Train Until You Crack

To get better you have to break yourself down, and you have to push yourself to that point where youre almost

getting injured. You really have to have a lot of body awareness to know where that point is so that you actually

dont injure yourself.

Rest Hard

Eight or nine hours of sleep a night is my sweet spot. I really focus on having these crazy solid rest days where I

just lay on the couch and fully let my body regenerate.

Be Your Own Coach

I think its really a mistake to blindly follow a training plan. Its important to listen to your body.

Getting Older Means Getting More Regimented

Ive always had a lot of natural talent, and I kind of coasted on that for a lot of years. Sometimes I wouldnt even

climb for like a month and then go to a competition and just cruise in and win it. But now Im 32 and I definitely

feel like I have to maintain my level a bit more.

Failure Isnt Bad, Its a Motivator

Failing on climbs gives me motivation to push my limits. Sometimes it can be frustrating for sure. But thats the

catalyst to actually push yourself.

Enjoy the Journey

I spent four years working on La Dura Dura. Those moments of success are so few and far. Ninety-nine percent

of the time you walk away not succeeding, and thats just part of the process.

Climbing is my lifelong journey. And in the same way you go running and you have days where you really feel in

tune, you have some days where you dont feel that good. Its this never-ending process. Accepting that and

enjoying that for what it is, thats really where the life of climbing is.

Training Secrets from the World's Best Rock ClimberChris Sharma may be 32, but hes still pushing the sports limits as a pioneer of deep-water soloing.