© Student Handouts,© Student Handouts,By, Sunil Talekar, Faculty, SOFT-PuneBy, Sunil Talekar, Faculty, SOFT-Pune

NEENEEDLEDLE

Functions of the needleFunctions of the needle

•To produce hole in the materialTo produce hole in the material

•To carry the needle thread through To carry the needle thread through the material and there form a loopthe material and there form a loop

•To pass the needle thread through To pass the needle thread through the loopthe loop

SEWING MACHINE NEEDLESEWING MACHINE NEEDLE

SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE PARTSSEWING MACHINE NEEDLE PARTS

• BUTTBUTT• SHANKSHANK• SHOULDERSHOULDER• LONG GROOVELONG GROOVE• SHORT SHORT

GROOVEGROOVE• EYEEYE• NEEDLE POINTNEEDLE POINT• SCARFSCARF• BLADEBLADE

PARTS OF THE NEEDLEPARTS OF THE NEEDLE

SEWING NEEDLE PARTSSEWING NEEDLE PARTS

SHOULDERSHOULDER•Intermediate between shank and the bladeIntermediate between shank and the blade•It is also called shaftIt is also called shaft

SHANKSHANK•upper part of the needle upper part of the needle •may be cylindrical or have a flat side.may be cylindrical or have a flat side.•larger in diameter than the rest of the needle for larger in diameter than the rest of the needle for reason of strength reason of strength

BUTTBUTT•The end of the needleThe end of the needle•The butt determine the length of the needle The butt determine the length of the needle when it is fully inserted into the needle bar of the when it is fully inserted into the needle bar of the sewing machine.sewing machine.

SEWING NEEDLE PARTSSEWING NEEDLE PARTS

BLADEBLADE•Below the shoulder of the blade to the eye of the Below the shoulder of the blade to the eye of the needleneedle•Longest part of the needle.Longest part of the needle.•Accommodates the groove, the eye and the Accommodates the groove, the eye and the scarf.scarf.•The blade reduces the fabric resistance as the The blade reduces the fabric resistance as the needle point and its eye passes through the fabricneedle point and its eye passes through the fabric•Greatest amount of the friction .Greatest amount of the friction .

SEWING NEEDLE PARTSSEWING NEEDLE PARTS

LONG GROVELONG GROVE•Slit above needle eye, should be large enough to Slit above needle eye, should be large enough to "cradle" thread for smooth stitches."cradle" thread for smooth stitches.•Provides a protective channel in which the thread is Provides a protective channel in which the thread is drawn through.drawn through.•A Correctly shaped long groove of a depth matched A Correctly shaped long groove of a depth matched to the thread diameter, offers considerable protection to the thread diameter, offers considerable protection to the thread.to the thread.

SHORT GROOVESHORT GROOVE•It extends a little above and below the eyeIt extends a little above and below the eye•Its function is to assist in the formation of the Its function is to assist in the formation of the loop in the needle thread.loop in the needle thread.

SCARFSCARF •Concave section above the eye of the Concave section above the eye of the needleneedle•Indentation at back of needle. Indentation at back of needle. •A long scarf helps eliminate skipped A long scarf helps eliminate skipped stitches by allowing bobbin hook to stitches by allowing bobbin hook to loop thread more easily. loop thread more easily. EYEEYE•Hole in end of needle through Hole in end of needle through which thread passes. which thread passes. •The hole through which the The hole through which the thread passthread pass•Eye is located below the scarfEye is located below the scarf•Needle size and type Needle size and type determine size and shape of determine size and shape of eye.eye.

SEWING NEEDLE PARTSSEWING NEEDLE PARTS

SEWING NEEDLE AND THREADSEWING NEEDLE AND THREADIF THE NEEDLE IS TOO SMALL FOR THE THREADIF THE NEEDLE IS TOO SMALL FOR THE THREAD

• Thread will not pass freely through the eyeThread will not pass freely through the eye• Thread will not fit properly into the long groove.Thread will not fit properly into the long groove.• Thread will suffer from excessive abrasion.Thread will suffer from excessive abrasion.• Can lead to costly thread breakages in Can lead to costly thread breakages in productionproduction.IF THE NEEDLE IS TOO LARGE FOR THE THREADIF THE NEEDLE IS TOO LARGE FOR THE THREAD• There will be poor control of the loop formation There will be poor control of the loop formation which may cause slip stitches.which may cause slip stitches.• It will create holes in the fabric which are too big for It will create holes in the fabric which are too big for the stitches and give an unattractive seam the stitches and give an unattractive seam appearance.appearance.• Tends to give rise to damaged fabric along the Tends to give rise to damaged fabric along the stitch line, and in closely woven fabrics, pucker along stitch line, and in closely woven fabrics, pucker along the seam line due to fabric distortion.the seam line due to fabric distortion.

Most machine needles Most machine needles will look similar but will look similar but they will differ in their they will differ in their tips:tips:Set/Spear pointSet/Spear point - - These are used for These are used for most woven fabrics.most woven fabrics.

NEEDLE POINTSNEEDLE POINTSBall pointBall point - These - These have a rounded tip and have a rounded tip and are used for knitted are used for knitted fabrics. The rounded fabrics. The rounded end allows the needle end allows the needle to separate the yarns to separate the yarns without cutting them, without cutting them, which reduces the which reduces the chance of the fabric chance of the fabric laddering. laddering.

Wedge pointWedge point - These - These are designed to cut a are designed to cut a hole as they penetrate hole as they penetrate the fabric. They are the fabric. They are used for machining used for machining leather and plastic leather and plastic materials.materials.

Set point needle

SLIM SET POINTSLIM SET POINT

SET POINTSET POINT

HEAVY SET POINTHEAVY SET POINT

SPEAR NEEDLE POINTSPEAR NEEDLE POINT

LIGHT BALL POINTLIGHT BALL POINT

MEDIUM BALL POINTMEDIUM BALL POINT

HEAVY BALL POINTHEAVY BALL POINT

Ball point

Set point needleBALL NEEDLE POINTBALL NEEDLE POINT

CLOTH POINT NEEDLECLOTH POINT NEEDLE

BALL POINT BALL POINT NEEDLENEEDLE

EFFECT OF DIFFERENT NEEDLE POINTSEFFECT OF DIFFERENT NEEDLE POINTS

NEEDLE POINTNEEDLE POINT

Uses:Uses: Safest needle choice for most fabrics. Safest needle choice for most fabrics.

Configuration: Configuration: Has slightly rounded point Has slightly rounded point and elongated scarf to enable almost and elongated scarf to enable almost foolproof meeting of needle and bobbin foolproof meeting of needle and bobbin hook.hook.

Troubleshooting: Troubleshooting: When fabric is not When fabric is not medium-weight woven, consider needle medium-weight woven, consider needle specifically suited to fabric. For example, specifically suited to fabric. For example, size 18 universal needle works on heavy size 18 universal needle works on heavy denim, but size 18 jeans needle works denim, but size 18 jeans needle works better.better.

UNIVERSAL NEEDLEUNIVERSAL NEEDLE

Uses:Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser sweater knits; stretch needle for highly sweater knits; stretch needle for highly elastic fabrics, like Spandex, or Lycra.elastic fabrics, like Spandex, or Lycra.Configuration: Configuration: Both have rounded points Both have rounded points that penetrate between fabric threads that penetrate between fabric threads rather than pierce them. (Stretch-needle rather than pierce them. (Stretch-needle point is slightly less rounded than ballpoint.)point is slightly less rounded than ballpoint.)Troubleshooting: Troubleshooting: Test-stitch knits with Test-stitch knits with ballpoint, stretch, and universal needles to ballpoint, stretch, and universal needles to see which doesn't cut yarn and yields best see which doesn't cut yarn and yields best results. If ballpoint skips stitches, try stretch results. If ballpoint skips stitches, try stretch needle.needle.

BALLPOINT & STRETCH BALLPOINT & STRETCH NEEDLESNEEDLES

Uses:Uses: Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic leather; precisely stitching edges; and leather; precisely stitching edges; and heirloom sewing.heirloom sewing.

Configuration: Configuration: Has an acute point.Has an acute point.

Troubleshooting:Troubleshooting: Essentially trouble-free, Essentially trouble-free, but fabric may require a Teflon, roller, or but fabric may require a Teflon, roller, or even/dual-feed presser foot.even/dual-feed presser foot.

MICROTEX & SHARP NEEDLESMICROTEX & SHARP NEEDLES

Uses:Uses: Excellent for sewing natural leather. Excellent for sewing natural leather.

Configuration:Configuration: Has slight cutting point Has slight cutting point (almost like an arrowhead).(almost like an arrowhead).

Troubleshooting:Troubleshooting: On synthetic leather, On synthetic leather, unless it's very heavy synthetic, cuts rather unless it's very heavy synthetic, cuts rather than pierces stitch hole and can tear than pierces stitch hole and can tear leather. Most synthetic leathers require leather. Most synthetic leathers require Microtex or sharp needle.Microtex or sharp needle.

LEATHER NEEDLELEATHER NEEDLE

Uses:Uses: For heavyweight denim, duck, For heavyweight denim, duck, canvas, upholstery fabrics, artificial leather, canvas, upholstery fabrics, artificial leather, and vinyl.and vinyl.

Configuration:Configuration: Has deeper scarf, acute Has deeper scarf, acute point, and modified shaft to sew without point, and modified shaft to sew without pushing fabric down into needle-plate hole. pushing fabric down into needle-plate hole. Goes through fabric and meets bobbin hook Goes through fabric and meets bobbin hook better on dense woven fabrics.better on dense woven fabrics.

Troubleshooting: Troubleshooting: If stitches skip when If stitches skip when sewing very heavy fabrics, try larger needle sewing very heavy fabrics, try larger needle and sew more slowly or walk needle through and sew more slowly or walk needle through fabric (by turning hand crank).fabric (by turning hand crank).

DENIM (JEANS) NEEDLEDENIM (JEANS) NEEDLE

Uses:Uses: Enables easier threading for sewers Enables easier threading for sewers with vision problems.with vision problems.

Configuration:Configuration: Universal needle with slip- Universal needle with slip-in threading slot at the eye.in threading slot at the eye.

Troubleshooting:Troubleshooting: Always pull sewn piece Always pull sewn piece back away from needle before cutting back away from needle before cutting thread so needle doesn't unthread. Needle thread so needle doesn't unthread. Needle works well on woven fabrics, but may works well on woven fabrics, but may occasionally snag knits, so test-sew to check occasionally snag knits, so test-sew to check for fabric and needle compatibility.for fabric and needle compatibility.

HANDICAP/SELF THREADING HANDICAP/SELF THREADING NEEDLENEEDLE

Uses:Uses: Hemstitching or heirloom embroidery Hemstitching or heirloom embroidery on linen and batiste.on linen and batiste.

Configuration:Configuration: Has fins on sides of shank Has fins on sides of shank to create holes as you sew.to create holes as you sew.

Troubleshooting:Troubleshooting: Stitch is more effective Stitch is more effective when needle returns to same needle hole when needle returns to same needle hole more than once. If needle pushes fabric into more than once. If needle pushes fabric into needle hole, put stabilizer under fabric.needle hole, put stabilizer under fabric.

HEMSTITCH (WING) NEEDLEHEMSTITCH (WING) NEEDLE

Uses:Uses: Topstitching, pin tucking, and Topstitching, pin tucking, and decorative stitching.decorative stitching.

Configuration: Configuration: Two needles on single shaft Two needles on single shaft produce two rows of stitches. Measurement produce two rows of stitches. Measurement between needles ranges from 1.6mm to between needles ranges from 1.6mm to 6mm, and needles come with universal, 6mm, and needles come with universal, stretch, embroidery, denim, and Metallica stretch, embroidery, denim, and Metallica points.points.

Troubleshooting:Troubleshooting: Be sure throat plate Be sure throat plate allows for distance between needlesallows for distance between needles

TWIN (DOUBLE) NEEDLETWIN (DOUBLE) NEEDLE

TRIPLE NEEDLETRIPLE NEEDLE

Uses: Same uses as for double needle.

Configuration: Cross bar on single shaft connects three needles to sew three stitching rows. Comes with universal point in 2.5mm and 3mm widths.

Troubleshooting: Same as for double needle.

SPRING NEEDLESPRING NEEDLE

Uses: Uses: Free-motion stitching with dropped Free-motion stitching with dropped feed dogs.feed dogs.

Configuration: Configuration: Has wire spring above point Has wire spring above point to prevent fabrics from riding up onto to prevent fabrics from riding up onto needle, eliminating need for presser foot.needle, eliminating need for presser foot.

Troubleshooting:Troubleshooting: Before using, practice Before using, practice free-motion stitching with heavy regular free-motion stitching with heavy regular needle, paper, and dropped feed dogs. needle, paper, and dropped feed dogs. Don't pull paper/fabric; instead gently guide Don't pull paper/fabric; instead gently guide it through stitching. Wear safety glasses for it through stitching. Wear safety glasses for free-motion work, since needles often break.free-motion work, since needles often break.

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