“ A fallen leaf is nothing more than a summer’s wave

goodbye.” ~Unknown

As I write this, the temperature forecast says it will top out at

96 degrees this afternoon. It sure does not feel like fall will be

here soon. According to the National Weather Service, we

should expect above average rainfall. Be on the lookout for

signs of stress due to waterlogged soils. It looks very similar

to drought stress because under waterlogged conditions, roots

stop working, leading to the wilting of foliage. On a good

note, it is time to prepare for the fall garden. If you are not

familiar with our gardening seasons, the spring and fall

(avoiding summer heat) are the most productive.

Finally, be on the lookout for our annual New Leaf Survey. It

will be sent out a few days after this newsletter.

In this Issue

For more information contact: UF/IFAS Extension Duval County

Larry Figart lfigart@ufl.edu (904) 255-7450

Extension Update by Larry Figart Volume 2, Issue 5 Sept-Oct 2020

What’s That?

Credit: Scott Bauer, USDA Credit: James Graham, UF/IFAS Credit: Peggy Greb, USDA

Title Page

Extension Update 1

What’s That? 1

Can’t Keep a Good Lawn Down 2

Proper Lawn Management 2

Sphaeropsis gall of Holly 3

Herbs in the Fall Garden 4

Cultivating Compost 5

What to Plant 6

Sept/Oct online classes 6

What’s That? Answer! 6

2

Around the Yard by Chris Kerr

Can’t Keep A Good Lawn Down

As we begin to approach the dormant period, now is

the time to make sure we’re taking care of the lawn

appropriately. Making a lawn-care error now can be-

come months of that injury on display. This is be-

cause the lawn’s growth will start to slow down and

won’t have a chance to recuperate. If the lawn is left

in a weakened state, you can bet you’ll see more dis-

ease, pests and weeds. If allowed to proceed, these

will impact next spring’s green-up. In fact, this is one

of those critical times where we either put in a little

work now, or be prepared for a lot of work later.

During this fall transition, our lawns are preparing

themselves by storing up energy reserves as their col-

or fades out for the year. What should we be doing

right now? Focus on your cultural controls and scout-

ing!

Mow regularly. Remember it rains a lot this time of

year. If we’re already pushing the limits on mowing,

having to wait an extra two or three days due to

heavy rains can put some extra stress on the lawn.

Don’t mow when the grass is wet, as that will only

cause clumping, poor cuts and spread disease. If you

have a large buildup of thatch, it’s too late for any

major dethatching, but you can still do a light, 1/8”

top-dress. Consider one final light fertilization at a

1:2 ratio of N:K, but don’t add any phosphorous.

In terms of pests, keep watching for sod webworms

and fall armyworms. Populations generally start to

peak during Sept/Oct. As for diseases, be on the look

out for large-patch as it starts back for the year. As

always, so long as it remains warm, take-all root rot

will be a threat. Remember cultural controls are key

to 90% of the lawn problems encountered. A healthy

lawn can grow past these issues. See our key recom-

mendations for these months, and be careful not to

over fertilize now. A green lawn going into a frost is

not a good thing. If you have a lawn issue you need

help with, bring in a sample or reach out to the

Extension office, and we will be happy to perform

identifications and offer additional management

guidance.

Proper Lawn Management is the Key!

Fertilization

If you have been fertilizing well throughout the season, you probably don’t need to fertilize more. Remem-

ber no more than 2-4 lbs of Nitrogen for the year! If it has been a while, now is the time to give that final

application before winter. In North Florida, don’t fertilize past mid-September and remember “N-P-K”.

Make sure you are applying a fertilizer with no phosphorus (P), and the same or higher Potassium (K) than

Nitrogen (N). There are “winterizer” fertilizers out there that have a lot more nitrogen than should be

applied so don’t be fooled by their labels. Remember to dial that spreader down; if you go with a 15-0-15,

3 lbs per 1000 sq. ft. should be more than enough.

Irrigation

Irrigation needs for the lawn are always changing. As temperatures start to cool off in late September irriga-

tion needs drop as well. Adjust your irrigation events based on need and as long as you don’t see symptoms

of drought stress, start reducing irrigation to just once a week.

Preemergence Herbicide

Applying a preemergence is a great way to reduce weed pressure, but remember every herbicide application

we make injures the lawn as well...timing is critical! In early September, most of the weeds in your lawn are

warm season weeds; there isn’t much benefit in applying herbicide to those weeds at this point. Identify the

weeds present to plan controls for next spring and mow regularly to reduce seed production. To control win-

ter annual weeds, herbicides should be applied when temperatures at night are 55-60° F for several consecu-

tive days. This usually occurs in early to mid-October in North Florida. The choice of compound is based

on the lawn species and the target weeds so you’ve got to know your lawn! For more information check out

the UF/IFAS Weed Management Guide for Florida Lawns at https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep141.

3

Out on a Limb by Larry Figart

Sphaeropsis Gall on Holly

Sphaeropsis Gall is nothing new to Florida. It has

always been around, just not seen as frequently in

NE Florida as it has been recently. Sphaeropsis occurs

on several different Florida ornamental plants such as

citrus, hawthorn, bottle brush, crepe myrtle, ligustrum,

and oleander. However, it can be very detrimental to

hollies. All holly species are susceptible.

Once you see sphaeropsis Gall, it will be easy to

identify. Symptoms range from inconspicuous swell-

ings of young twigs to irregular galls on older wood.

Multiple shoots arise from galled areas causing a

“witches broom” type of growth. Horizontal branches

can “tip up" to grow nearly vertically. Also, clusters of

stunted, sometimes leafless shoots or witches brooms

may be seen. Leaves on galled branches often turn

yellow and drop. Death of the stem soon follows.

Recent preliminary studies have looked at whether any

one holly species is more susceptible to Sphaeropsis.

These studies determined that Ilex crenata, Ilex ‘Mary

Nell’, and Ilex x attenuata, when inoculated with the

disease formed larger lesions. In the NE Florida land-

scape Sphaeropsis Gall has become a severe problem

on East Palatka and Savannah hollies in particular.

This makes sense because they are attenuata hybrids.

Natural or mechanical wounds in the wood allow

entry points for the organism. The disease is much

more likely to be found on a commercial site where

the trees are pruned more regularly. Pruning may

allow Sphaeropsis to spread rapidly by transferring the

fungus from tree to tree and allowing an entry point

into the plant.

There is no fungicide labeled for Sphaeropsis in Flori-

da. If caught early, one solution for an infected tree is

to prune branches at least 6 inches below where symp-

toms are seen. After cutting, look at the cut end of the

stem to see if there is any discoloration from the fun-

gal growth in the wood. If discoloration is found, the

branch should be cut back even further. Because wet,

humid conditions favor the spread of this disease,

prune during dry times, avoiding periods when rainfall

is expected 24 hours before or after pruning. Since

there is no listed fungicide, prevention is key. When

pruning hollies, using clean sterile equipment is the

best method we have at this point to slow down the

spread. After each cut, dip pruning tools in a disinfect-

ant such as 10% or rubbing alcohol before using them

on another branch or plant. Severely infected plants

should be removed and destroyed. The disease may

also be spread through infected cuttings. Take cuttings

only from known disease-free stock plants. Do not

take cuttings from a diseased holly.

Witches booming and dieback on ‘East Palatka’ Holly

Photo by Larry Figart

Sphaeropsis Galls

Photo by Larry Figart

4

Growing in the Garden by Beth Marlowe

Additional

Reading:

Herbs in the Florida

Garden. “Herbs are plants grown

for their special aromas

and flavors. They are

mainly used to season,

enrich, or otherwise

improve the taste or

smell of foods. Many

herbs are also colorful

and have interesting

textures.

Herbs are well-suited

for container culture…”

Herbs in the Fall Garden

Have your outdoor herbs been looking tired, ragged

and unhappy the last month or two? Just as we do,

many of our favorite herbs struggle with the double

whammy of high heat and humidity in late summer

and early fall. But as the worst of the heat breaks

around the end of September, we can all breathe a

little easier. Many perennial herbs will perk back up,

and with a little attention, will grow well throughout

the fall. Others, like dill and parsley, can finally be

planted outdoors when the threat of heat and tropical

rains have passed.

Perennials from the Mediterranean region—rosemary,

oregano, sage and thyme—prefer weather on the drier

side. Unglazed clay pots are perfect for these herbs

because they naturally dry out faster than plastic ones

and help ensure the herbs are not overwatered. And if

your herbs are in pots, you can move them around—

from areas with mid-day shade in the summer, to sun-

nier spots in the cool season. Fall is a good time to

check each one and trim out any diseased or dead

branches, making the plant healthier and increasing

air flow through it. Scout for insects and treat if

necessary. Fertilize lightly and move to a bigger pot if

the plant is becoming root bound. Trim leaves as

needed for culinary use but be careful not to harvest

more than one third of the plant’s leaves at a time.

Many cool season herbs, such as cilantro/coriander,

dill, fennel and parsley, are grown as annuals. Cilant-

ro, dill and fennel are typically started from seed. To

shorten time to germination, soak seeds in water over-

night before planting. Parsley can be direct seeded or

grown from transplants. Either way, plant in well-

draining soil with lots of organic matter. Cilantro and

coriander refer to different parts of the same plant. If

it’s the leaves (cilantro) you’re after, growing it in the

cool season is a must, because it bolts (begins to

flower and produce seeds) quickly with the least bit

of heat. Even if you can’t stand the leaves, let it flower

and produce seed (coriander). Coriander seed is used

in pickling and many types of curry seasoning. All

four herbs are members of the Apiaceae (Carrot)

family of plants and are good larval host plants for

swallowtail butterflies. Look for the larvae or pupae

before harvesting, and be sure to share some of your

crop with them! Just a few plants should provide

plenty for both you and the butterflies.

5

Cultivating Compost as Leaves

Fall

As cooler temperatures and shorter days arrive, our

deciduous landscape trees such as hickories, syca-

mores and maples, will begin shedding leaves. Think

of this leaf-raking time not as a chore to be dreaded,

but as a time of opportunity to cultivate com-

post. Free organic matter is falling from the sky!

Use it to start a compost pile or rejuvenate an exist-

ing one.

Fallen, dead leaves are carbon-rich materials, or

“browns,” in the compost pile. They are typically

lower in moisture content than “greens,” degrade

slowly, and help aerate a compost pile. They are a

good balance to moist, nitrogen-rich materi-

als that comprise most of our kitchen scraps.

To use deciduous leaves in your compost pile, there

is no need to rake them into plastic bags. You can

rake them into large piles and run over them with a

lawn mower using a bag attachment. This will chop

them up into smaller pieces so they will break down

faster, and you can empty the bag directly into the

compost pile. If you have more leaves than you can

use immediately, you can create a second compost

pile or use them as mulch in landscape beds where

they will naturally compost over time.

If you don’t already have a compost pile, you can

find Compost Tips for the Home Gardener https://

edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep323 from UF/IFAS online. If you

would like even more information, check out the

UF/IFAS Sarasota County composting website

https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/sarasota/natural-resources/

waste-reduction/composting/ for a comprehen-

sive review of all things compost related.

Whether you choose to manage a hot-and-fast com-

post pile or prefer a lower-maintenance cool-and-

slow one, you will end up with rich, crumbly and

dark organic matter that can be turned into your soil

prior to planting fall vegetables, or used as a mulch

around existing vegetable and landscape plants. You

will be recycling those nutrients from your own

property right back into that same soil. You can

close the recycling loop without transportation and

off-site processing. A win for you, the environment

and your garden plants!

Growing in the Garden by Beth Marlowe

Handful of refined compost soil

UF/IFAS Photo by Tyler Jones

Yard waste, trees, branches, ground, leaves,

sticks and mulch.

UF/IFAS Photo by Thomas Wright

Take a 20-question quiz to see how much you know (or need to learn) about composting!

https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/sarasota/natural-resources/waste-reduction/composting/quizfaq/

6

Upcoming September/October Classes

For Information please call : (904) 255-7450

Thursday, Sept. 10 at 10-11 am, 10 Ways to save the Rain, Learn different ways

to save the rain besides using a rain barrel. Delivered via Zoom, Register at: https://

www.eventbrite.com/e/118290338587

Thursday, Sept. 17 from 10:30 am–12, Herbs for the Fall Garden & How to

Use Them Learn about herbs you can grow throughout the cool season, as well as

how to use them. Delivered via Zoom, Register at: https://www.eventbrite.com/

e/117678849607

Tuesday, Sept. 29 at 10-11 am, Falling into Winter Learn about getting your

landscape ready! Delivered via Zoom, Register at: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/

falling-into-winter-tickets-118294073759

Saturday, Oct. 3 at 10 am and again at 11 am, Demonstration Garden Tour,

Extension Demonstration Garden, 1032 Superior Street, Jax, 32254 https://

www.eventbrite.com/e/urban-demonstration-garden-tour-tickets-119513988557

Thursday, Oct. 15 at 10-11 am, Garden in a Jar, What is container gardening,

….anything that holds soil, Delivered via Zoom, Register at https://

www.eventbrite.com/e/garden-in-a-jar-other-container-options-tickets-

119615762967

Thursday, Oct. 22 at 3-4 pm, Learn how to Grow Hydroponic Lettuce in a

Bucket, Learn the steps to set up your own passive hydroponic lettuce system in a 5

gallon bucket. Delivered via Zoom, Register at: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/

hydroponic-lettuce-tickets-119330824709

Wednesday, Oct. 28, 10-11 am, Theme Gardens Let’s visit 9 theme gardens. De-

livered via Zoom, Register at: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/theme-gardens-tickets-

119627654535

It is the Varroa Mite. This pest is a parasite that feeds on a

bee’s hemolymph , (honey bee blood), causing honey bee

stress and eventually the death of developing and adult

honey bees. This pest is the world's most devastating pest of

Western honey bees and is believed to be a major contributor

to Colony Collapse Disorder. A Varroa Mite infestation

causes a reduction in worker bee population and therefore

affects a colony’s ability to feed and care for itself. In addi-

tion, Varroa Mites transmit harmful viruses, further weaken-

ing the hive. The higher the Varroa population, the greater

the damage to the honey bee population will be.

What to Plant

September & October

Annuals - Try ageratum,

celosia, zinnia, and wax be-

gonia (Sept). Petunia, and

shasta daisy (Oct).

Bulbs - Plant calla, narcis-

sus, and zephyr lily (Sept).

Put out fragrant daffodil

varieties for North Florida;

include 'Carlton', 'Fortune',

'Silver Chimes', 'Thalia',

and 'Sweetness' (Oct).

Vegetables - Try Broccoli,

Cabbage, Cauliflower, Col-

lards, Kale, Lettuce, Mus-

tard, Onion, Radish, Straw-

berry, Swiss Chard and Tur-

nip

Herbs - Plant Cilantro,

Chives, Dill, Fennel, Garlic,

Marjoram, Parsley, Sage

and Thyme

What’s That? Answer!

A Varroa Mite feeds on a honey bee.

Photo Credit by James Castner, University of Florida