Seamless Garment Knitting

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Shima Seiki’s SDS-ONE system Prof.Dr.S.Kathirrvelu iOTEX-BDU

description

Seamless Garment Knitting

Transcript of Seamless Garment Knitting

Shima Seiki’s SDS-ONE system

Prof.Dr.S.KathirrveluiOTEX-BDU

SDS-ONE system (Shima Seiki)

The most useful programs

include Knit-paint and Knit-

design.

Shima Seiki’s SDS-ONE system are as follows:

i) The Colour Number List

ii) Optional Line Function List

iii) Pattern Development Assignment

iv) Reference data for colours used for

WholeGarment® (WG) package

• overview and explanation of how these

concepts work together to allow for complex

designs to be programmed and knitted.

Specifically the Section provides an outline of

(1) basic programming procedure, (2)

package programming and (3) WG package

programming.

Digital knit programming involves a series of

procedural steps to translate the envisaged

design into a computer language or code using

the CAD/CAM (Computer Aided Design /

Manufacture) system.

The data is then saved onto a disc (or the

network) and is transferred to the knitting

machine.

For Shima Seiki, the CAD system developed is

known as SDS-ONE. The SDS-ONE system is

a totally integrated knit production system that

allows all phases including planning, design,

evaluation and production

Outline of basic programming procedure

In order to knit a design using a Shima Seiki

industrial knitting machine, it must be

programmed. The steps involved are:

(1) Design preparation, (2) Programming the

design, (3) Design Processing, and (4) Knitting.

1. Design preparation

Design preparation involves the initial planning

and development of the design ideas. This

includes inputting the design into the CAD

system. The knitting CAD system is specific to

the industrial knitting machine. For Shima

Seiki knitting machines the CAD system is SDS-

ONE.

The Knit-paint program is where all technical knit programs are constructed, processed andchecked, through the knit simulation function

• In contrast the Knit-design program is for design work.

Knit-design allows for the design of 2D surface stitch

architectures, yarn and colour selection to be virtually

knitted (simulated), as well as colourways tested. The

design program has a broad file format, allowing for

jpeg, tiff, and bmp files to be imported into the

system. Therefore artwork, for example for a jacquard,

can be scanned into the system, cleaned (through

colour reduction) and prepared.

SDS-ONE knit-design program working page with knit simulation

Within the Knit-design program there is a library of stitch architectures, which can be accessedto create complex fabric structures

2. Programming the design

The design is converted to programming language

and data is inputted and consists of 3 parts;

(1) the structure pattern, (2) the option lines and

(3) the pattern development assignment

(2) The programming is undertaken through Knit-

paint.

• Specifically, the structure pattern or design

area (Figure 3.36, 1) is set, based on the stitch

code colour number list (refer to Stitch Code

Summary). Every stitch type or movement of

a stitch is represented by a colour/number.

The option lines inform the knitting machine how

the design is to be knitted. Each option line

represents a different part of the knitting

process, such as the selection of yarn carriers,

and which sections of the design are to be

repeated. The option lines ultimately provide the

knit program with some flexibility, as the inputted

data in the option lines can be changed at the

processing and at the knitting stage.

The pattern development assignment also

provides support information, similar to the

option lines, about the width and placement

of the knitting on the machine.

3. Design Processing

The design is processed and saved to a formatted disc or

network to ensure the knit program can be read by the

knitting machine. In processing, the knit parameters

are set and the machine type to be used is specified.

The knit parameters are based on the option lines and

can include for example economisers (repeat sizes),

digital stitch and takedown values and the selection

of yarn carriers.

Digital Control Simulation of knit program (Shima Seiki)

4. Knitting

The knitting machine is set up. Yarn is selected

and threaded through the tension devices to

the yarn carrier. Then the knit program is

selected, read, and knit parameters set and/or

adjustments made via the machine display

panel. The knit program is then knitted.

Package programming

Package is an extension of basic programming. Through

the use of Package software, the programming of a

design is simplified. Package software uses a system of

registered colours, with each colour (and number)

representing a different knit package or combination

of stitches. Package allows for complex design

outcomes, particularly 3D seamless knitting, to be

more readily visualised and communicated in a

simplified 2D format.

WholeGarment® package programming

seamless knitting technology creates a complete

garment with minimal or no cutting and

sewing required, thus eliminating seams.

Seamless knitting is made possible by machine

technology that allows tubular rib transfer.

WholeGarment ® pattern making guide (Shima Seiki)

• When Package Software is applied to Shima

Seiki’s WholeGarment® technology, three

stages for programming need to be

completed before the design can be knitted.

This is similar to standard package

programming and includes (1) the Package

base pattern, (2) the Compress pattern and

(3) the Development pattern (Figure 3.44).

1. Package base patterns

Package base patterns are based on the package

library developed by Shima Seiki. In addition,

for more complex designs, the required

package base patterns may need to be self

constructed by the knit programmer.

2. Compressed pattern

The garment design is translated into programming

language. The compressed pattern consists of three

parts; (i) the base pattern, (ii) the front design area

and (iii) back design area. The base pattern provides

the information on the overall garment shape or

structure. This information includes variations with

front and back, such as necklines or variations required

for a cardigan type garment.

3. Developed pattern

The Compress Pattern is expanded to become the

‘Developed Pattern’. The process of expanding the

pattern combines the three parts of the Compressed

Pattern and develops each package. This process is

semi automatic and is achieved by using the processing

procedure of Package development. Developing the

packages converts the program to the standard Shima

Seiki colour code language, where one colour per

square equals one stitch type.

Once expanded, the Developed Pattern can be

processed. Processing is a semi automatic

procedure carried out through the Knit-paint

software and involves inputting specific

information such as the yarn carriers,

economisers and takedown into the program and

converting the program to a .000 file, so that the

program can be read by the knitting machine.

(1) Processing the program and (2) control simulation (Shima Seiki)